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Eating&Drinking Featuring

n e w 2 018

edition

300

star-rated restaurants The City’s

BesT

pizzas, pastas, doughnuts, burgers and more PLUs

100+ must-try wines

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Eating&Drinking This issue 17 | Our annual roundup of the best things to eat and drink in Toronto

restaurants

19 | American 21 | Argentine 21 | Bar and Pub 23 | Bistro 26 | British 26 | Canadian 28 | Caribbean 28 | Chinese 30 | Colombian 31 | Continental 32 | Cuban 32 | Diner 32 | Ethiopian 32 | Filipino 32 | French 34 | Greek 34 | Haitian 34 | Indian and Sri Lankan 36 | Indonesian 38 | International 42 | Italian 48 | Japanese 52 | Korean 52 | Malaysian 52 | Mexican 54 | Midday 56 | Middle Eastern 56 | Persian 58 | Portuguese 58 | Resto-Lounge 60 | Scandinavian 60 | Seafood 60 | Singaporean 60 | Spanish 60 | Steak 62 | Thai 62 | Vegetarian 62 | Vietnamese

photographs: cover by vicky lam; styling by michael elliot/judy inc.; this page by dave gillespie

food shops

64 | Bakeries 66 | Butchers 67 | Cheesemongers 68 | Chocolatiers 69 | Coffee 70 | Tea 71 | Fishmongers 71 | Grocery Stores 72 | Health Food 74 | Ice Cream Parlours 74 | Prepared Food 74 | Specialty Food

bars and clubs

77 | Cocktail Lounges 78 | Dance Clubs 78 | Hotel Bars 78 | LGBT 78 | Music Halls 79 | Neighbourhood Spots 82 | Pubs 83 | Sports Bars 83 | Wine Bars

wine

84 | Best of Ontario 86 | Bargains and Deals 88 | Gift Wines 90 | Sparkling Wines 91 | Great Whites 92 | New World Reds 93 | Classic Reds

Broadview hotel (page 78)

La Banane (page 34)

95 | index

Godspeed Brewery (page 82)

Eating and Drinking 2018 toronto life 13

Eating&Drinking

steakhouse and seafood

editorial director Maryam Sanati editors Alex Baldinger, Rebecca Fleming copy editors Heidi Ebert, Kelly Jones art art director Christine Dewairy director of photography Daniel Neuhaus associate art director Brian Anson Wong designer Adam Cholewa contributors Caroline Aksich, Jeffrey Bercuson, Meaghan Binstock, Chantal Braganza, Andrew D’Cruz, Rachel Heinrichs, Chris Johns, Emily M. Keeler, Emily Landau, Signe Langford, David Lawrason, Rob Mifsud, Mark Pupo, Jacob Rutka, Peter Saltsman, Renée Suen, Marco Ursi contributing researchers Rida Ahmed, Ali Amad, Simon Bredin, Viviane Fairbank, Stephanie Ortenzi, Kelly Reid, Charles Rowland, Reanna Sartoretto, Amy Wallace

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toronto life magazine publisher Ken Hunt editor Sarah Fulford executive editor Angie Gardos chief of research Veronica Maddocks advertising senior account manager John Andreopoulos national account managers Ana Bettencourt, Lori Colucci, Andrew Davies, Catherine Lenihan, Laura MacPhee montreal eastern general manager Bettina Magliocco national account manager Suzie Carrier consumer marketing vice-president, marketing and production Darlene Storey director, newsstand and consumer marketing Annie Gabrielian director, consumer marketing Rui Costa

Since 2005

production production director Maria Mendes production manager Judy Strader production coordinator Colleen Gilroy pre-press coordinator Kathleen Fregillana st. joseph media chairman Tony Gagliano president Douglas Kelly general manager and vice-president, finance Karl Percy vice-president, strategic development Duncan Clark marketing director Jessika J. Fink vice-president, research Clarence Poirier to order toronto life eating and drinking, visit torontolife.com/eatinganddrinking. offer available while quantities last. toronto life eating and drinking (issn 1499-5174) is indexed in the canadian periodical index. distributed by coast to coast newsstand services limited. toronto life eating and drinking is published by toronto life publishing co. ltd. all rights reserved. contents may not be reprinted without written permission. editorial, advertising and circulation offices: 111 queen st. e., ste. 320, toronto, on m5c 1s2. telephone: 416-364-3333.

14 toronto life Eating and Drinking 2018

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this issue

The hand-chopped sardine kofta at Atlas

STAR GRAZING

photograph by dave gillespie

by a l e x b a l di n ge r , f o od e di t or Hollywood can’t resist a sequel, which is how the world ended up with eight Fast and Furious films, and counting.

Thankfully, Toronto’s top chefs and restaurateurs are more discerning when it comes to delivering second (or third) acts, and it was a big year for them.

Locals waited almost a decade for Jen Agg to open a fullfledged follow-up to the iconic Black Hoof, and the result is the immaculately curated, light-filled Grey Gardens (page 24), home to some of the best cooking Kensing ton Market has ever seen, with a smart wine list heavy on super-trendy natural and low-intervention bottles from all over.

Victor Barry didn’t wait nearly as long to pair his clever Piano Piano (itself a reboot of the former Splendido) with a French counterpart. Café Cancan (page 32) is all pink garden-party vibes and flamingo print wallpaper, with superbly executed bistro classics and an entire menu section devoted to foie gras.

No sequel this year was more Hollywood than La Palma (page 44), Craig Harding and Alexandra Hutchinson’s heir to the reliable Campagnolo, near Trinity Bellwoods. The SoCal-soaked space flashes shades of teal and copper, with a menu of wood-fired pizzas, flame-grilled seafood, a stunning 100-layer lasagna and a slate of house-made cocktails.

And one of the city’s best dining trilogies now belongs to chef Doug Penfold, who added his Moroccan-inspired Atlas (page 56) to his other going concerns (his French bistro Chabrol and the Spanish Cava). His latest specializes in tagines of long-simmered goat and a dizzying array of mezes with strong Mediterranean bona fides.

The following pages lay out the Toronto restaurant story as it stands, featuring hundreds of reviews and some of our favourite food items from the past year of Toronto Life.

Where does the narrative take us from here? Get your popcorn out, because it’s sure to be entertaining.

Eating and Drinking 2018 toronto life 17

restaurants The city’s top 300 dining destinations, as selected by Toronto Life’s critics How We Do It The following restaurants are recommended by our anonymous reviewers. Restaurant bills are paid by Toronto Life; reviews have no connection to advertising. Stars are awarded for food and wine quality, as well as present­ ation, service, atmosphere, ambition and originality. The reviews have been selected from our online directory and shortened.

Because of changing menus, specific dishes referenced may not always be available.

hot spot

The Stars S SS SSS SSSS SSSSS

Good Very good Excellent Extraordinary Perfect

The Symbols W Restaurant and its washrooms are wheelchair accessible O Outdoor dining in season V Kitchen has interesting vegetarian options A Bring your own bottle N Kitchen open past midnight on weekends E Serves weekend brunch Restaurant has opened since the last edition of Eating and Drinking

brothers food and wine

The Prices

The city’s best new restaurant of 2017 occupies a former coffee shop squeezed next to Bay Station, where diners enjoying chef Jon Nicolaou’s delicious no-frills dishes can feel the Bloor line rumble underfoot (page 23).

AMERICAN ADAMSON BARBECUE

SSS

photograph by dave gillespie

Adam Skelly’s barbecue is so mind­blowingly good that it’s worth venturing into the wilds of a Leaside industrial park for. The cavernous concrete space is a smokehouse pure and simple, with rolls of paper towel on the tables and a butcher­paper menu taped to the wall. Almost everything here takes a spin in the Oyler 1300, a massive wood­burning smoker: brisket melts in your mouth, and pork ribs flecked with caraway seeds are perfectly pink inside. Sides are as nature and Texas intended: kitchen­sink potato salad, creamy slaw and rich beans flavoured with beef tallow. There are no spoons in the collec­ tion of plastic cutlery—the slices of bread served with each platter are meant for soaking up escaped sauces. 176 Wicksteed Ave., 647-559-2080. $$$ WO

AFT KITCHEN AND BAR

SS

This narrow Riverside room is almost always packed to capacity, and for good reason. Panko­ breaded batons of portobello mushroom are best dipped in their tangy thyme aïoli, and smoked duck breast is killer on toast, topped with wild blueberry compote, candied nuts and tart pickled veggies.

Flank steak cooked medium­rare barely requires a knife, and a mammoth brisket sandwich is made

with tender smoked meat piled onto a soft egg bun with pickled onions. Nothing is safe from the smoker, including the bar ingredients, so drinks taste a tad similar, but the blueberry margarita is wonderfully refreshing. 686 Queen St. E., 647-346-1541. $$$ WONE

BARQUE BUTCHER BAR

SS

The experts at Barque Butcher Bar, the adjunct to Roncey’s popular meatery, will teach you how to ’cue like a pro. Sip a draft beer or cocktail while you get schooled on home­grill smoking techniques.

And if all the talk makes you hungry, you can order something like za’atar­spiced wings or a smoked meat platter to share. They also sell everything for a last­minute cookout, from the rubs to the meat itself. 287 Roncesvalles Ave., 416-532-7700. $$$ A

BIG CROW

SS1

Walk behind Anthony Rose’s Dupont diner Rose and Sons, through a laneway, and you’re engulfed in a cloud of intoxicating charcoal smoke. Chef Sean Malone and his crew slow­smoke ribs, chicken and brisket over a fire pit, and serve the meat with sides like sweet slaw and buttermilk potato salad. Diners sit at picnic tables in an open­air mess hall, drink­ ing pitchers of cocktails and bottles of rosé made for the restaurant by Norman Hardie. In winter, the

$ $$ $$$ $$$$

Mains under $10 Mains $10–$20 Mains $20–$30 Mains $30 and up

patio becomes a fully enclosed and heated cabin, lit by candles and strewn with blankets. 176 Dupont St., 647-748-3287. $$$ AO

BURGER’S PRIEST

SS

At most locations, expect long queues, glacial ser­ vice and fierce table jockeying. Are the burgers really worth it? Yes, if greasy and medium­well meat is what you’re after. The formula is both comforting and familiar, after all: thin, griddle­ smashed patties messily slathered with all the traditional condiments and served on lightly browned buns. Unlicensed. 463 Queen St. W., 647-748-8108; plus nine other GTA locations. $$

CARBON BAR

SS1

This Queen East space disproves the rule that the best barbecue must come from out­of­the­way smokehouses. The brisket is some of the best in the city—it sets a lofty standard for the rest of the plat­ ter: the St. Louis cut ribs are slightly overdone, and the fried chicken could use a few more seconds in the fryer. But it’s a safe bet that no idealized barbe­ cue place would successfully execute Korean fried cauliflower or a bracing shrimp ceviche. A rye and ginger made with cold brew registers a culinary clang—something from the wine list is a better way to go. 99 Queen St. E., 416-947-7000. $$$ WAE

Eating and Drinking 2018 toronto life 19

CHERRY STREET BAR-B-QUE

SS

The faint whiff of oak smoke wafting over the Port Lands these days is courtesy of Lawrence LaPianta, who opened a slice of central Texas on the site of the former Cherry Street Restaurant.

Brisket, pulled pork and side ribs, all sold by weight, take centre stage, scribbled on a butcherpaper menu so it’s easier to cross something off when it sells out. Brisket can be a fickle cut; it’s best to arrive early to capture it at its peak— peppered, salted and cut as thick as the accompanying slices of bread. Soggy pulled pork isn’t worth the space on the stainless steel tray— that real estate is best reserved for another cheese-stuffed sausage link. 275 Cherry St., 416-461-5111. $$VOE

DESCENDANT DETROIT STYLE PIZZA

SS

Descendant’s square, sauce-on-top, Motown-style deep-dish pies are perfectly chewy, delightfully greasy and satisfyingly crunchy around the edges. The Homenaje pizza is loaded with chorizo, roasted jalapeños, lime-pickled onions and cilantro sour cream. 1168 Queen St. E., 647347-1168. $$$V

DOUBLE D’S

SS

After years of Neapolitan domination, Toronto finally has Chicago-style deep-dish pizza. Customers can create their own over-the-top pie or choose one of three pre-designed ones, like the Chicago Classic crammed with mozzarella, pepperoni and Italian sausage—three inches deep.

Gas ovens spew heat into the tiny room; thank goodness for cold draft beer and fresh air courtesy of a constant stream of takeout customers.

1020 Gerrard St. E., 416-727-5411. $$VN

ELECTRIC MUD BBQ

SS1

This raucous Parkdale joint is home to some seriously tasty barbecue. The brisket sandwich may be one of the city’s best: tissue-thin slices of Montreal-style smoked beef are piled high on a soft roll and topped with sweet molasses barbecue sauce, chipotle mayo and crispy frizzled onions. Tangy buffalo cauliflower, crowned with pickled celery, is another standout. No meal here is complete without a bourbon-based cocktail

Top Five

and Crack Rolls—warm milk buns served with whipped butter accented by smoker drippings.

5 Brock Ave., 416-516-8286. $$VO

HOLY CHUCK

SS1

It wasn’t Toronto’s first smashed-on-a-flat-top burger joint, but it’s probably the most fun. The eponymous Holy Chuck is the platonic bacon double cheeseburger, while the Animal Feed—pankocrusted portobellos with feta and lemon-herb aïoli—is a veggie burger that doesn’t feel like a compromise. The Go Chuck Yourself is an orgy of six beef patties, American cheese and caramelized onions wedged between three grilled cheese sandwiches. Unlicensed. 1450 Yonge St., 416-962-4825; plus two other GTA locations. $$V

HOME OF THE BRAVE

S1

Perched above a bustling strip of King West, HotB is arguably the city’s bearer of unabashedly trashy comfort food. Tangy buffalo cauliflower comes deep-fried until crisp, and sesame-laced tuna poke is punched up with crispy jasmine rice and barbecue corn-nut crumbs. Low lit, loud and decked out with bright-orange pleather benches, it’s no place for a romantic date, but with dishes like fried bologna sandwiches, it’s worth a visit. 589 King St. W., 416-366-2736. $$ N

JUNCTION LOCAL

SS

With craft beer on tap and a seasonal southern menu of hearty dishes at comfortable price points, this Junction spot has been designed to function as a neighbourhood local. An Oklahoma-built, woodburning smoker cooks juicy brisket for 14 hours; it shows up in exceptional tacos, accented with a sweet bourbon-cherry gastrique. Dry-rubbed pork back ribs are served with an addictive maple mustard and rye sauce. Some sloppy plating and lessthan-attentive service offer room for improvement.

3076 Dundas St. W., 416-766-3841. $$$ NOE

LESLIEVILLE PUMPS S

This gas station–restaurant hybrid serves up housesmoked southern classics and Canadian specialties—from pulled pork to poutine. The brisket sandwich promises juicy smoked beef with crispy fried onions and house barbecue sauce; on one night,

though, the meat is dry and under-sauced. The sides are the stars: golf ball–size corn fritters beg to be dunked in the creole sauce, and the vinegar tang of deep-fried dill pickle spears is cut with creamy aïoli.

Unlicensed. 929 Queen St. E., 416-465-1313. $$VNO

MEMPHIS BBQ AND WICKED WINGS

SS

This appropriately dilapidated roadside shack in Woodbridge serves first-class southern fare, rivalling its hipper downtown competitors. Pork side ribs are a house specialty: the pepper-crusted pink meat has a deep smoke flavour and slides effortlessly off the bones. Chicken wings are deepfried in a crunchy 10-spice batter and doused in fiery house-made barbecue sauce. Thick but tender ribbons of pork shoulder retain a trace of applewood smoke and are tossed in a tart sauce before being piled high on a bun. The sides are capable but uneven: baked beans have great molasses depth, but the coleslaw is limp and flavourless. 8074 Islington Ave., 905-265-9003. $$$ WV

MONTECITO

SS1

Ivan Reitman’s Entertainment District restaurant may serve Californian-inspired cuisine, but Canadian ingredients are given top billing: Fogo Island cod, Perth County pork belly and Nova Scotia scallops, to name a few. Strozzapreti noodles, each one a tender little closed scroll, shine alongside their ’nduja sausage, chili and cabbage sauce. And strip loin, pink and flavourful, gets the full béarnaise-and-shrimp-sauce treatment.

Deconstructed spice cake with caramel-appleand-vanilla ice cream looks avant garde but tastes as comforting as ever, while the marshmallow wrapped in chocolate mousse, topped with bruléed meringue, pays homage to the dessert’s inspiration: the Stay Puft Marshmallow Man. 299 Adelaide St. W., 416-599-0299. $$$ WANOE

OMAW

SS1

A recent meal at Omaw is hugely disappointing, though not at all because of the food. Service is intrusive and dishes arrive so quickly that they are barely finished before the next course is hastily set down. It’s doubly upsetting because the cooking is truly exceptional: every plate is composed with a painter’s eye and assembled from novel but elevat-

Pizza

From our September issue, some of the city’s most prized pies

Descendant Pizza’s Jaffna Yes, a deep-dish pie is our pick for the No. 1 pizza. We fully expect thin-crusters to take issue. We know you feel strongly. But so do we: the Leslieville hot spot’s Detroit-style pizzas make its two-dimensional rivals seem shallow. This one sports a Sri Lankan patchwork of chopped kothu roti, mango chutney, green onions, cilantro cream, coconut sambol and Calabrian chilies. $20–$32.

1168 Queen St. E., 647-347-1168.

20 toronto life Eating and Drinking 2018

2

Piano Piano’s Bitters Chef Victor Barry’s wood-burning oven churns out an assortment of beautifully blistered pizzas, but the pièce de résistance is a fire-kissed sourdough crust topped with charred kale and dandelion greens, creamy fior di latte, parmesan, chilies, garlic and a refreshing spritz of lemon. $22. 88 Harbord St., 416-929-7788.

photographs by vicky lam

1

restaurants

ing combinations of flavours and textures. Delicate slices of raw sea bream pair perfectly with melon, crab roe and basil seed; and mussels are soaked in a mouth-watering malt vinaigrette and served on toasted white bread slathered with huitlacoche.

The agnolotti may be the best pasta dish in the city: plump dumplings stuffed with creamy house-made ricotta, then tossed with zucchini and squash blossoms. 88 Ossington Ave., 416-477-5450. $$$VA

SMOKE SIGNALS BAR-B-Q

SS1

Drawing on inspiration from across the southern U.S., pitmaster Nick Chen-Yin smokes up a barbecue-belt greatest hits menu: from South Carolina, smoky pulled pork dressed in a vinegary sauce; from Memphis, dry-rubbed pork ribs seasoned with paprika and pepper; and, from central Texas, jalapeño-cheddar sausages that snap like a bullwhip. Even if it’s not served directly from the bag, there’s still something shamefully delicious about a good Frito pie, as this smoked chili and crema version proves. 1242 Dundas St. W., 416-588-7408. $$ A

STACK

SS1

When Stack opened, the food wasn’t great and the kitchen lacked focus. Although the menu remains bloated—it’s a crowd-pleasing place, after all—the cooking is now top-notch. The sampler platter is excellent: fatty slices of brisket have a charred-justright crust, the baby back ribs are cooked to perfection, and the deli smoked meat has that necessary hint of pickling spice. The smoked chicken, coated in tongue-tingling pepper sauce, is also excellent.

3265 Yonge St., 647-346-1416. $$$VO

THE STOCKYARDS

SS1

Of the countless restaurants that were part of Toronto’s southern barbecue boom over half a decade ago, St. Clair West’s Stockyards was always one of the very best. The menu here is much the same as it’s always been—sandwiches, burgers, fried chicken and what might be the city’s best ribs.

Owner Tom Davis still spends most of his time in the back of the joint, and his commitment to his craft has made this humble spot one of the city’s most consistent restaurants. His griddle-smashed burgers are arguably some of the best in town. The

smoked chicken and ribs are only on offer Tuesday, Friday and Sunday, a testament to Davis’s obsession with quality. 699 St. Clair Ave. W., 416-658-9666. $$$ WVE

UNION CHICKEN

SS

This Sherway Gardens newcomer is all about chicken: southern-fried, rotisserie or piled high on a bun. Buttermilk-tenderized birds, ferried from the open kitchen, are finished with a drizzle of maple-honey syrup that adds a beguiling sweetness, and white gravy that packs an umami punch. Thick-cut, triple-cooked fries are even better dunked in the spicy house-made piri piri mayo.

Bonus: food arrives fast, even when the place is in a flap. Sherway Gardens, 25 The West Mall, 647341-1900. $$ WOVAE

ARGENTINE BRANCA

SSS

An Argentine restaurant is only as good as its meat.

Some of the city’s finest is slow-roasted and grilled to perfection in a custom-designed smokehouse behind this Brockton Village spot. Chef Samuel Maser and his helpers begin each day chopping logs for a pit grill, over which they hang suckling pig, Mennonite chicken and fat-streaked accordions of short ribs. It’s rustic gaucho fare, but the restaurant is refined: just two rows of marble tables, a small marble bar and the glow of the sun setting on the nearby parkette. Word has travelled: South American expats are making it their go-to, chattering over long dinners, ecstatic about a taste of home.

1727 Dundas St. W., 416-519-8165. $$$$ AO

LEÑA

SSS

Run by O&B and overseen by chef Anthony Walsh, Leña manages to out-glitz the Saks it’s next to.

Couples can start the night in the Beaux Arts bar, sipping vermouth and eating empanadas, before graduating to an alcove in the upstairs dining room, where there’s a curious mix of blowouts, Brioni and tourists toting Uniqlo purchases. They need to work on the acoustics—it’s one of the city's loudest rooms. Much of that is due to excitement over garlicky Ontario shrimp, chimichurri-painted

3

strip loin with sweet yuca fries, or rustic rabbit and snails slow-braised in white wine and tomatoes.

The wine list, beneficiary of O&B’s deep reserves, is evenly split between stars of South America and Spain, with quite a few available by the glass. Dessert demands churros—long, twisting and extra light—dunked in bowls of luscious Soma chocolate.

176 Yonge St., 416-507-3378. $$$ WVAE

BAR AND PUB ACE

SS

For more than half a decade now, this Roncesvalles haunt has drawn a steady crowd of locals who pack the restaurant’s Formica bar for pints, and cozy banquettes for elevated comfort food. Previously a diner and later a Chinese restaurant, the room is outfitted in art deco accents, mismatched antique dinnerware and sepia-toned, pagoda-printed wallpaper. Meat-heavy plates, like a velvety chicken pâté paired with grainy mustard and thinly sliced pickled onions, dominate the menu. A benchmark burger made with house-smoked, twice-ground brisket and sweet bacon jam is made even better by the accompanying thick-cut fries. Regulars know to save room for the tarted-up lowbrow desserts, like the crunchy, salty and sweet Skor Ritz pie.

231A Roncesvalles Ave., 416-792-7729. $$$VAE

BAR FANCY

SSS

At Chantecler, Jonathan Poon proved he could make an ambitious restaurant work in Parkdale.

Bar Fancy is comparatively simpler: a casual snacks-and-drinks place hidden down an alley, smack in the middle of the Queen West party district. Tables are closely packed, the music is cranked, and the drinks list is limited to bar rail and microbrews. The food is coyly posh: mineral Malpeque oysters with a Vietnamese-inspired sauce; deep-fried chicken in a thin, spicy batter; and chicken wings coated with a numbing Sichuan pepper that builds until your mouth burns like a five-alarm fire. 1070 Queen St. W., no phone. $$ AN

EULALIE’S CORNER STORE

SS

This stretch of Little India is changing, with curry buffets and paan shops sharing space with wood-

5

Conspiracy Pizza’s Bay of Pigs This place is a side project of the amazing Adamson Barbecue next door. Their insanely good riff on a Cubano sandwich is slathered in white sauce and topped with bacon, pulled pork and pickles. An artful squiggle of mustard sauce finishes it off. $25.

176 Wicksteed Ave., 647694-3327.

Maker Pizza’s Return of the Mac This off-menu tribute to the Big Mac features a chewy, sesame-flecked crust loaded with everything you’d find on one of Mickey D’s classics: ground beef, cheddar, pickles, iceberg lettuce, onions and house-made special sauce. $17–$32.

59 Cameron St., 416-782-2000.

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Forno Cultura’s Funghi This is the next best thing to the real Roman stuff, with an exquisitely savoury mix of cremini, porcini and portobello mushrooms, and punchy gorgonzola all topping a crispy cut-to-order base. $4.50–$9.

609 King St. W., 416-603-8305.

Eating and Drinking 2018 toronto life 21

fired pizza parlours, cheese boutiques and hipster bars. The menu at this tiny, eclectically decorated spot is all over the map, but in a good way. A pile of crispy fries, loaded with spiced lamb, garlicky tzatziki, crumbled feta and crunchy pomegranate seeds, is a Moroccan answer to poutine, only better.

Sweet and crackling chunks of pork belly top a mound of too-sweet baked beans, and a pile of crisp Japanese-style fried chicken drizzled with mayo arrives on a creamy cabbage-and-cheese pancake.

Cocktails, like the bourbon-laced No. 6 and ryebased Old Spice, are balanced beautifully, and there’s a great selection of local beer. There’s usually nothing for dessert, but a pint of cider subs in nicely. 1438 Gerrard St. E., 647-350-6263. $$VO

GABARDINE

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Bay Streeters flock here after work for at least two good reasons: homespun classic cocktails is the first, and a decent selection of by-the-glass trendy wine varietals is the second. And just as it’s easy for one drink to become two or three, it’s even easier to underestimate the gussied-up pub grub: a mountain of brick-red cauliflower nuggets, bathed in Korean gochujang, are as addictively snackable as popcorn chicken; and expert seasoning is evident in both a Nashville-style hot chicken sandwich and a delicately breaded piece of rockfish, served over creamy polenta. An airy Italian zeppole, laced with citrus cream and topped with candied orange, makes for a sweet nightcap.

Closed Saturday and Sunday. 372 Bay St., 647-352-3211. $$$ WVA

GOODS AND PROVISIONS

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This Leslieville room is charming, if not a little too dark and a little too loud. The menu is shamelessly meaty, and the kitchen makes clever use of Asian ingredients mashed up against classic European and Canadian recipes. A knob of nori butter melts into a Flintstones-worthy slab of seared P.E.I. beef, and two fat fish tacos in soft tortilla shells are sided with house-made kimchee that’s mouth-hurting hot, but good. The bar stocks plenty of bourbon and natural wines, and servers are knowledgable and chatty—when you can hear them over the din. 1124 Queen St. E., 647340-1738. $$$ N

Top Five

HER FATHER’S CIDER BAR AND KITCHEN

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The cider selection at this Harbord Village watering hole is unparalleled in this city, and most others in North America. Ontario’s inventive bounty of fermented fruits fills the majority of the spots on the long list, but selections from Spain, France, England and the United States, as well as a few outliers, are worth a slot in a three-cider tasting flight.

A bowl of creamy corn soup may seem an odd pairing for a glass of cider, but it’s one of the more memorable courses from the meandering menu, tasting as if freshly shucked from the cob. The larger plates, including unremarkable fried chicken paired with peach marmalade, and a slab of wan albacore paired with mild chorizo, are worth skipping—in favour of more cider, of course.

119 Harbord St., 647-347-7747. $$$ WVOE

LOCAL 1794

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Local 1794 is part of a delicious renaissance that’s taking place on the stretch of Danforth Avenue between Coxwell and Woodbine. A pizza of wild boar meatballs and fennel-inflected smoked boar sausage, with bright tomato sauce, fior di latte, house-smoked hickory bacon, caramelized onions and basil, is bubbled and scorched in all the right places. A duck leg seems more braised than the promised confit, but, in a tasty twist, the surrounding cassoulet tastes like sweet Québécois baked beans. Skip dessert in favour of something from the impressive beer and scotch selections.

1794 Danforth Ave., 416-463-1794. $$$VANOE

MAPLE LEAF TAVERN

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Once an east-end dive, the 107-year-old building has been given new life, thanks to a two-year, $1-million makeover designed to position it as a legitimate dining destination. Chef Jesse Vallins churns out what might be his best food to date, much of it from a wood-burning grill. The roasted vegetable salad with fried halloumi gives the kitchen a chance to grill up whatever’s in season, and the burger—a patty of ground strip loin topped with house-made cheese, garlic mayo and dill relish—is one of the city’s best. Kegged rye and gingers (made with artisanal ginger beer) are a fun touch. 955 Gerrard St. E., 416-465-0955. $$$VANOE

Pasta

The city’s best bowls of pasta, as featured in our February issue

MUSEUM TAVERN

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This ROM-adjacent restaurant’s cocktail game is strong, and crowds of thirsty tourists and nine-tofivers are well served by the bar’s slate of signature drinks, like the smoky old-fashioned. Dishes are hit-and-miss, though: tuna ceviche with jalapeños is sprightly, if a little too spicy; the squishy beef dip sandwich is a cloying mess of short rib, caramelized onions and emmenthal cheese, but it’s accompanied by a mound of perfectly crispy fries; and the flatiron steak arrives overdone and smothered in HP. Its Yorkville address may be the reason everything seems at least $5 overpriced—though after a few stiff drinks, you’ll hardly notice. 208 Bloor St. W., 416-920-0110. $$$ WVAO

PINKERTON SNACK BAR

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With a room decked out in antiques, reclaimed wood and retro lighting, and an eclectic playlist, Pinkerton’s feels like a Parkdale transplant. It’s not difficult for two people to eat everything on the short menu here. Best bets are the Laotian-style beef tartare and the tuna tostada, a messy but delicious plate of raw albacore, crispy wontons, avocado crema, chilies and nori. Of the cocktails, the smooth and citrusy Paper Plane is exceptional.

1026 Gerrard St. E., 416-855-1460. $VN

SUPERPOINT

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Jonathan Poon and Jesse Fader’s hipster redsauce spot would be insufferable if it weren’t so terrifically good. Among the crimes: the soundtrack of throwbacks, the anti-gourmet menu items (shrimp spring rolls) and the sheer number of patrons in tuques. But the food: wow.

The pasta alone is worth repeat visits—in particular, a reginette loaded with slow-cooked beef cheek and a heavy blanket of shaved parmesan.

The pizza isn’t up there with Piano Piano’s, but it’s still great, especially the variation on a Hawaiian with mortadella in place of ham.

184 Ossington Ave., 416-516-4656. $$VNO

TENNESSEE TAVERN

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Picture a men’s social club in a former Soviet Bloc nation that plays the new LCD Soundsystem album front to back, and that’s the scene at this dimly lit Parkdale institution that, in its newest form, is res-

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Enoteca Sociale’s Spaghetti Cacio e Pepe This mecca for wonderfully prepared Roman fare turns a bare-bones combination of black pepper, sheep’s milk cheese and very al dente noodles into a revelation. $12. 1288 Dundas St. W., 416-534-1200.

Superpoint’s Reginette with Braised Beef Cheek At Trinity Bellwoods’s newest pizza-andpasta hangout, house-extruded ruffled reginette noodles and phenomenal five-hourbraised beef cheeks tangle in a tomatobased sauce with a whack of parmesan. $16. 184 Ossington Ave., 416-519-6996.

22 toronto life Eating and Drinking 2018

photographs by vicky lam

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restaurants

taurateur Grant van Gameren’s ode to hearty Old Europe. Drinks fill three pages of the five-page menu, with Serbo-Croat rakijas and pálinkas the most eye-catching options, alongside German vermouths, Polish vodkas, American whiskies and a stellar curation of Toronto’s best craft beer. The food is exclusively blanket-and-a-nap fare: schnitzels and pierogies and cabbage rolls and sausages, all of it very heavy and very good, especially when slathered with one of the four mustards on offer.

1554 Queen St. W., 416-535-7777. $$VANO

candied lichen, crisp as a fried spider’s web and mildly sweet. Cured capelin add acidic complexity to a satisfying bowl of tender beans cooked with mirepoix, but in another dish, carefully cooked and flavourful winter vegetables aren’t supported by the slightly sour miso broth—sometimes the kitchen values presentation over exciting flavour.

Soft carrots complement the stewed apricots in a dessert that brings the meal to a fine finish.

971 Ossington Ave., 416-962-8943. $$$$VAO

weslodge

Anthony Rose’s Dupont bistro is stacked with terrifically simple French staples designed for grazing alongside draft manhattans or bargain bordeaux.

Steak tartare, popping with tangy capers and bright yolk, is just trashy enough when scooped onto house-made waffle chips. Salt cod fritters dipped in lemony harissa mayo deserve a second order, while a single serving of the foie gras with buttery toast soldiers is so rich and smooth that one plate of the stuff is enough for the whole table. The noisy room evokes a dated brasserie in an unhip Paris arrondissement—in the best possible way.

252 Dupont St., 647-342-0356. $$$ WVNOE

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The brazen scale and unabashed booziness (cocktails come in three-ounce pours or 750-mL bottles) imbue Charles Khabouth and Hanif Harji’s King West lounge with an irresistible sense of Friday night fizz. The drinks, like a potent tobaccoinfused manhattan, are the best reason to go, and the food is good, if a bit greasy. Yuzu-doused fluke ceviche has the pucker of Sour Patch Kids. A crispy Cornish hen breast would be great if bits of flaccid skin weren’t lurking underneath the crust.

480 King St. W., 647-660-0999. $$$$ WVANE

wICKsoN soCIAl

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The newest Anglophilic venture from the owners of the Oxley and Queen and Beaver pubs, with just as many leather tub chairs as dining tables, is a comfy one. And the menu matches the decor, with Sunday roast–worthy grub. Slow-cooked ox tongue in a rich beet glaze assumes the buttery consistency of fallapart beef cheeks. The sharp cheese fondue sweetened with apple cider should be served by the tub but needs something sturdier than delicate slices of sourdough for dipping. The cocktails are reliable, and the Purple Reign, made with rye, beet syrup, egg white and a port reduction, makes for an excellent digestif. 5 St. Joseph St., 647-748-1501. $$$ WOE

BISTRO ACTINolITe

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On a quiet stretch of Ossington, Justin Cournoyer’s two tasting menus showcase hyper-local ingredients and ultra-modern techniques. Both the fourand seven-course chef’s cards open with a plate of

BAR BegoNIA

BIFF’s BIsTRo

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The reboot of O&B’s iconic bistro is every bit as polished as its former self, luring back loyal clientele for power lunches and prix fixes. The vibe is less fusty as new British touches blend with Parisian traditions: burgundy leather banquettes, blackand-white photos and London-born bar snacks alongside duck confit and steak frites. Each dish is turned into an assemblage of bright veggies, Canadian-raised proteins and surprising hits of flavour. A tiny pitcher of green gazpacho arrives with a plate of delicate smoked sturgeon, asparagus, cucumber ribbons and lemony buttermilk curd for a fresh-as-hell appetizer. Mains, like cumin-dusted lamb with fluffy gnocchi and al dente green beans, dazzle for their drop-deadperfect cooking. 4 Front St. E., 416-860-0086. $$$$ WAO

THe BlACK HooF SSS

In 2008, Toronto was clutched by a recession and diners were craving a good hole in the wall. Dundas

West was a restaurant-less purgatory between Queen and College, and eating tongue or sweetbreads was semi-scandalous. The Hoof changed all that (except for the recession part). Today, meat is still sided by meat, as in the perfectly cooked lamb saddle with a heavily salted merguez-style sausage, but nowadays it’s the lighter dishes that are most impressive: a dainty bowl of chilled scallops with pickled fennel that’s topped with dill and a mild scallop mousse; or al dente asparagus dotted with gently smoked queso and lemony sumac. The herbaceous Tea and Sympathy cocktail, made with earl grey–infused gin and cream sherry, almost rivals their famous $16 manhattan. 928 Dundas St. W., 416-551-8854. $$$VANO

BRoTHeRs Food ANd wINe

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Occupying a former coffee shop that’s cheek-tocheek with Bay Station, the city’s best new restaurant is no bigger than a railroad car. Brothers isn’t caught up in what’s trending; instead, chef Jonathan Nicolaou’s no-frills menu changes daily but has included beef carpaccio layered with charred radicchio and buttery pine nuts; a roasted half Cornish hen on a bed of creamed savoy cabbage and chestnuts; seared hunks of veal sweetbreads under a ticklish wig of frisée; and slow-roasted Niagara lamb, with tangy fennel and briny capers. Here, diners are transported to Burgundy, to California, to Macedonia and to London. Then the Bloor line rumbles underfoot, and they’re brought back home.

1240 Bay St., 416-804-6066. $$$ W

CAFÉ BoUlUd

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When Daniel Boulud opened an outpost at the Toronto Four Seasons in 2012, he goofed by adapting his formula to trendy Canadiana. So he hired a new chef de cuisine and reverted to what he does best: rustic yet meticulously executed bistro standards. The menu is resolutely Lyonnaise, from the sticky caramelized apple and onions with truffled boudin blanc, to the crispy skin of duck confit and thyme-flecked frites that are among the tastiest around. 60 Yorkville Ave., 416-963-6000. $$$$ WE

CAReNs RosedAle

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After more than 13 years in Yorkville, this popular bistro packed up and moved north to Rosedale.

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F’Amelia’s Rabbit Pappardelle Strands of fresh pappardelle conjure autumn in Northern Italy when tossed with thyme-and-rosemary braised rabbit, honey mushrooms and torn black kale. $24.

12 Amelia St., 416-323-0666.

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local Kitchen’s Ziti Pomodoro These tender tubes of pasta, drenched in a superlative tomato sauce with basil and a hint of peperoncino bite, have been a menu staple since the Roncey restaurant opened in 2009. $18.

1710 Queen St. W., 416-534-6700.

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Buca’s spaghetti al Nero di Maiale The addition of pig’s blood to the pasta dough gives this otherworldly combo—pungent ’nduja sausage, luxe smoked burrata, sofrito and green garlic—its striking dusky hue. $24.

604 King St. W., 416-865-1600.

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wild hiramasa with black garlic and wisps of puffed rice, asparagus spears the size of cigars in almond sauce with fresh hapuku, massive spot prawns grilled over charcoal, and milk-fed veal with the restaurant’s beloved morels. There are a few certainties, like the Red Fife bread with cultured butter, a signature baba au rhum meant to be slathered with chantilly cream, and warm servers who casually offer the full gourmet arsenal—caviar service, maybe, or a bottle from the deep Spanish- and French-heavy wine list— without even a trace of upsell. 169 Niagara St., 416-703-4222. $$$$ WVA

hot spot

EMERSON

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This Bloordale spot is big enough to accommodate walk-ins without being impersonal, and the ever-morphing menu offers comforting, wellexecuted dishes that are inventive, but not flashy. A tagliatelle carbonara with plump shrimp and crispy guanciale in an old-school white sauce, and a simple salad of heirloom tomatoes, make for exceptional starters. The double cheeseburger, easily one of the city’s best, is a Big Mac homage, with two house-ground chuck-and-brisket patties cooked to a perfect pink. Nuanced cocktails and nightly specials keep the place packed. 1279 Bloor St. W., 416532-1717. $$$

FEDERAL

Brandon Olsen’s Ossington bistro is like a year-round New Year’s Eve dinner party with flapper-era cocktails in fluted glasses, an ice-bed-based raw bar and a disco soundtrack (page 34).

Both the design and the menu are classic and timeless: tufted leather banquettes and subway tiles, duck confit and steak tartare. Regulars greet each other at the front bar before moving into the cozy dining room, preferably to a table by the fireplace or at the bar. Solid if not inspiring cooking plays it safe. A well-constructed frisée salad Lyonnaise with chunky croutons and an oozing egg suffers from a slightly sour dressing, but plump moules marinières hold their own, accompanied by crisp frites. Warm service is as polished as the clientele.

1118 Yonge St., 647-352-8111. $$$VOE SS1

On the way into Cluny, you pass by the café and the restaurant’s streetside boulangerie, where staff fold crêpes and sell a daily selection of pastries. In the main dining room, bartenders pour trendy absinthe cocktails, and steak frites is offered in four cuts: filet mignon, hanger, liver and a peppery, intricately marbled 10-ounce strip loin that arrives blushing, as ordered, with a side of golden, crisp, sliver-thin fries. The portions are uniformly Brobdingnagian. 35 Tank House Ln., 416-203-2632. $$$ WVOE

COLETTE GRAND CAFÉ

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This Thompson Hotel restaurant looks out over a sleepy downtown park that echoes the vibe

inside. On a Thursday night, a few banquettes are filled with suits and hotel guests with shopping bags in tow, while locals gravitate in and out, wondering where the people-watching went.

Slow staff and a slow kitchen seem to also fit the bill. Despite the lethargic vibe, the kitchen still makes very serviceable French classics, like a mushroom tartine with creamy oyster and button mushrooms layered over Thuet sourdough, topped with fresh tarragon. This is one of The Chase’s many sister spots, so the seafood remains top-notch, and the standout is a rich, worth-every-ounce-of-cholesterol lobster cavatelli: thick gnocchi-like noodles are smothered in a creamy, tomatoey sauce made from fresh bisque, then tossed with corn, basil, and hunks of fresh, sweet tail and claw meat—it’s France meets Italy meets the Maritimes meets Ontario. 550 Wellington St. W., 647-348-7000. $$$ WVAOE

EDULIS

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Much of what makes Edulis a singular dining experience is its serendipity: Michael Caballo and Tobey Nemeth change their offerings so often to reflect what’s in season that there’s not even a printed menu to be studied. Guests at this humble townhouse dining room order a five- or sevencourse procession that’s anything but modest:

24 toronto life Eating and Drinking 2018

GREY GARDENS SSS

At Jen Agg’s new Kensington Market bistro, chef Mitchell Bates’s changing menu is divided into small, medium and larger courses, and the idea, now a given, is to share. Bates’s bowl of ricotta dumplings redefines matzo ball soup, the fluffy white orbs in a broth that out-turkeys every grandma’s turkey stock, laced with kombu, dried shiitake, bonito and a dash of tare. A disarmingly simple fish dip, made from applewood-smoked Spanish mackerel blended with sour cream, mayo and pickled onions, is to be spread on wafer-cut potato chips dusted with caper powder. It’s a perfect after-work snack with a glass from a wine list (this is, after all, a wine bar) that leans toward organic and Burgundy. 199 Augusta Ave., 647351-1552. $$$V

LE SELECT BISTRO

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The move from Queen West to the current location in 2006—zinc bar, subway tiles and vintage movie posters intact—seems to have provided a second wind, and this beloved bistro, now entering its fourth decade, remains as busy as ever. The emphasis on classics remains: hearty choucroute garnie, crusty soupe à l’oignon gratinée, dainty salmon tartare—and plates arrive moments after they’re ordered. A slab of foie gras terrine, pink with a bright yellow cap, and toasted brioche is textbook.

Expertly rendered venison haunch with turnips and a dark, sticky sauce show the kitchen’s chops better than a quartet of scallops that fall short of seared. Dessert doesn’t get much more old-school than île flottante, a frothy, eggy cloud, with vanilla bean crème anglaise. 432 Wellington St. W., 416596-6405. $$$VANOE

photograph by dave gillespie

La Banane

CLUNY BISTRO AND BOULANGERIE

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The Federal remains one of the best restaurants on a vibrant, ever-changing stretch of Dundas West. The room is cozy and effortlessly stylish— exposed brick, wood pews, flickering Edison bulbs—and the menu is thoughtful, detailoriented and reliably well executed. On a recent visit, the kitchen sent out a parade of flawless, satisfying dishes: an earthy medley of chanterelle and maitake mushrooms on thick slices of grilled sourdough, elevated by Beemster and tarragon; juicy fried chicken served on pillowy waffles, doused in vinegary hot sauce; and, best of all, a perfectly smoky pork chop with a side of brussels sprouts charred in all the right places.

1438 Dundas St. W., 647-352-9120. $$VE

It’s watching it drizzle over and over again.

We get it, so we make quality cookware that gets it, like pots that heat up all over to melt everything evenly.

paderno.com

PETER PAN BISTRO

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While a restaurant bearing the same moniker has existed at the corner of Queen and Peter since the late 1920s, the most recent iteration was launched in 2015 by chef Noah Goldberg, who kept the name and many of the lovely are deco finishes. Goldberg’s original nose-to-tail menu is gone, replaced by refined, seasonally inspired dishes. A ramp pesto risotto, with fresh peas that pop and sautéed henof-the-woods mushrooms, tastes like spring in a bowl, and a slightly under-seasoned burger arrives perfectly pink, topped with rich rarebit, caramelized onions and house-made ketchup. From the bistro’s original menu, devils on horseback—crisp bacon wrapped around sweet dates—are the ideal bar snack, and the almost-too-creamy duck liver mousse smartly comes with a brittle bruléed crust.

373 Queen St. W., 416-792-3838. $$$OE

SCARAMOUCHE PASTA BAR AND GRILL

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The foie gras and rack of lamb may be reserved for those supping in the restaurant proper, but the casual grill counterpart remains a quintessential Scaramouche experience, with excellent service, a great wine list and a skyline view. Despite its name, there are only five pastas on the menu, including tender tagliatelle in truffle-porcini sauce punctuated by gently bitter wilted greens.

Desserts are also casually sophisticated. The best is a moist plum frangipane tart with vanillaflecked whiskey ice cream and a toasty walnut crumble. Closed Sunday. 1 Benvenuto Pl., 416-961-8011. $$$$VA

UNION

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Chef Teo Paul’s superb Ossington bistro maintains a base of loyal patrons who keep it buzzing but not overwhelmingly busy. The menu skews French with some strong Canadian influences (like the exceptional elk sliders), and the portions are hearty. The sublime steak tartare appetizer, paired with a spicy habanero paste, grainy Dijon mustard and bread-and-butter pickles, could be a meal on its own. Desserts, like the maple bread pudding, are excellent, but a night here is best finished with an expertly made cocktail at the marble-topped bar. 72 Ossington Ave., 416-850-0093. $$$VAOE

Top FIve

BRITISH

CANADIAN

MARBEN

ANTLER

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Predating the bulk of King West restaurant arrivals, Marben survived by reinventing itself every few years, and its current incarnation boasts British flair. John’s Burger is a mainstay for good reason: a ground chuck patty is topped with decadent braised short rib, Branston Pickle and sharp white cheddar.

The bone-in pork chop is perfectly juicy, done medium-well. But the menu does have its missteps, like too-cold burrata served with underdressed kale leaves and (curiously) whole peppercorns. The speakeasy-ish Cloak on Marben’s lower level is a stylish spot for pre- or post-dinner drinks.

488 Wellington St. W., 416-979-1990. $$$ANOE

OXLEY

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Everything about Yorkville’s British gastropub is quietly aristocratic. Like any good British kitchen, the place turns out a wealth of saucy meats and deep-fried savouries. Pudgy croquettes, stuffed with mushrooms and stinky stilton, are compulsively snackable. Gamey lamb shoulder is slowroasted for four hours, then cubed and tossed in a smoky navarin with parsnips, carrots, potatoes and beans. The cocktail list features twists on classics, but a cask-conditioned ale is a better choice.

121 Yorkville Ave., 647-348-1300. $$$ WVAOE

THE QUEEN AND BEAVER PUBLIC HOUSE

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English expats Jamieson Kerr and chef Andrew Carter first opened this refined public house in 2009 as an homage to the beloved institutions ubiquitous in their home country. Set back from the bustle of Yonge-Dundas Square, the Q&B is an oasis of British kitsch, set in a two-storey Victorian.

In the main floor dining room, under the watchful gaze of QE II, patrons tuck into British classics— sausage and mash with rich stout-onion gravy; fish and chips—as well as more refined bites, like a ham hock terrine or a decadent salmon Wellington.

Upstairs, soccer cognoscenti congregate around the flat-screen on plush chairs and couches for pints and Premier League matches. An exceptional wine list and cocktails are much better than any pub deserves. 35 Elm St., 647-347-2712. $$$VAOE

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All things foraged, wild and Canadian dominate the menu at this Little Portugal spot, but what else can be expected from a chef with the last name Hunter? While the ingredients might be local, the kitchen’s techniques span the globe: duck hearts are skewered yakitori-style and grilled to a tender finish beneath a soy glaze, and wild mushrooms are supported by caramelized onions and a sorrel pesto in a textbook tarte tatin. Venison shoulder served with a tasty ash-crusted chop is tough and bland, but the handmade pappardelle with braised rabbit, buttered leeks, sautéed spinach and, surprisingly, apricot preserve works brilliantly.

1454 Dundas St. W., 647-345-8300. $$$ ANE

BORALIA

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Instead of the naked Edison bulbs and subway tiles of so many restaurants, there’s a moody forest mural at Boralia, and a cedar trellis that runs across the ceiling, evoking a Vancouver Island boathouse. The room has personality, as does Wayne Morris’s cooking. He’s inspired by historical Canadian recipes, like pigeon pie with a crust more buttery than any pioneer ever imagined. The highlight one night is a casserole of dense salt cod quenelles, their marine flavour ratcheted up by tender lobes of lobster. Closed Monday and Tuesday. 59 Ossington Ave., 647-351-5100. $$$VA

CANIS

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The austere room decorated with a national park’s worth of wood panelling is a clue you’re in for a serious lesson in True North cuisine. Chef Jeff Kang’s Canada includes twig-shaped knives for spreading house-made ricotta on sourdough; P.E.I. oysters dressed with a bracing jalapeño-cucumber granita and served in a bowl of chilled beach stones; 12-hour-braised lamb shoulder served with charred gem lettuce; a whole-roasted, dry-aged duck breast; and, possibly the prettiest dish of the year, a lattice of pink and fatty trout slices, rounds of radish and pickled cucumber, sprinkled with dill and perched in a pool of horseradish cream.

746 Queen St. W., 416-203-3317. $$$$VA

Cheap Eats

From our August issue, the city’s best bites for $10 or less Shanghai Dim Sum’s Crab-and-Pork Soup Dumplings Don’t pop these perfectly pinched parcels whole: each of the Richmond Hill dim sum restaurant’s xiao long bao with tender crab and pork is filled with piping-hot soup that needs to be carefully slurped. $7.99. 330 York Regional Rd. 7, Richmond Hill, 905-597-5866.

26 toronto life Eating and Drinking 2018

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Martin’s Bakery’s Mutton Kothu Roti Kothu roti, a Sri Lankan staple, is an ingenious (and delicious) use of day-old bread. For this particular version, crispy roti that’s 24 hours past its prime is grilled on a flat-top along with spicy mutton, chilies and onions. Then, two blunt metal blades chop it all to pieces, ensuring you get a bit of everything with each bite. $6.

2761 Markham Rd., Unit 15, 416-535-2323.

photographs by dave gillespie; katz’s deli by carlo mendoza

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restaurants CANOE

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On the 54th floor of the TD Bank Tower, executive chef John Horne emphasizes Canoe’s Canadiana theme through provenance: creamy Thunder Oak gouda coats a wondrously rich soup of three-daycaramelized Holland Marsh onions and bone marrow; the gnocchi that accompany a buttery wedge of Great Lakes walleye are made of specially sourced potatoes from Alliston. Desserts can be overwrought, like a tribute to Niagara peaches in which the fruit is lost amid all the add-ons, including Pop Rocks. Servers are as polished as at any O&B restaurant and are experts in the treasurefilled wine list. Closed Saturday and Sunday.

66 Wellington St. W., 416-364-0054. $$$$ WVA

EASTSIDE SOCIAL

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Set across two bustling rooms, this three-year-old Leslieville spot—a passion project of a couple of Haligonians—functions as a fun, casual congregation point for east-enders. The handsome place boasts a subtle maritime theme, both in decor (lobster traps as light fixtures; mini schooners as centrepieces) and on the menu. Creamy clam chowder, with double-smoked bacon and croutons, could stave off the chill of a nor’easter, while a plate of grilled octopus, poached with chilies in olive oil, may be one of the city’s best iterations. Servers are happy to make recommendations, and a decent drinks list helps keep the good times going.

1008 Queen St. E., 416-461-5663. $$ON

FARMHOUSE TAVERN

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Since 2012, this Junction Triangle spot has been an ode to all things rustic Canadiana: a vintage Moffat stove holds cutlery, and the walls are covered in frames cradling antlers, LP covers and old photos.

The kitchen is committed to local, seasonal fare, and prosaic menu items bear little more description than “fish dish” or “veg harvest,” allowing chef Ashley MacNeil to make use of what’s available.

The roasted bone marrow and the Mother and Child (a duck-themed scotch egg) offer the requisite meat fixes, and the Barnyard Burger—a beef patty with thick-cut bacon, goat cheese, a fried duck egg and Russian dressing—is still one of the best burgers in town. Closed Monday to Wednesday.

1627 Dupont St., 416-561-9114. $$$VAOE

KU-KUM KITCHEN SSS

Joseph Shawana reimagines traditional Indigenous recipes with fine dining techniques. He tweaked the recipe for his grandmother’s cake-like bannock by sweetening it with maple syrup—to better complement smoked and cured fish. He also serves a traditional Three Sisters soup of corn, yellow beans and squash. Yet aside from those two recipes, Shawana’s menu would fly at Canoe, Antler, Boralia or Montgomery’s, where the locavore cooking follows the seasons. His preserved cattail hearts and milkweed pods, with a smear of plum jam, hits the pickling trend currently sweeping the city. A pheasant and pearl barley stew, brightened by a white wine sauce, is both homey and elegant, like a fancy pot pie filling. The standout is a plate of elk, which he roasts after a spell in a sous-vide bath with spruce tips and juniper, and serves with fingerlings and a creamy purée of artichoke. The deep forest scents serve as a reminder of where the beast once roamed. 581 Mt. Pleasant Rd., 416-519-2638. $$$V

LOKA

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After a year of operating a Riverside pop-up, Dave Mottershall, armed with Kickstarter funds, moved to Queen West. There, he makes excellent à la carte dishes like the Pig Mack, made with house-made pancetta and special sauce on a delicate milk bun, but we recommend the tasting menu, which brings a barrage of flourishes and garnishes: a cube of crispy pig’s head tagged with ramp mustard, thin leaves of cured pork shoulder dotted with 50-yearold balsamic, and a log of bone marrow dusted with shaved, cured egg yolk that plays like an aged parmesan. Knowledgable servers can explain the complex plates as well as they can flavour-profile Niagara wines and craft ciders. 620 Queen St. W., 647-348-4620. $$$V

MONTGOMERY’S

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Chef Guy Rawlings, after a pause to help manage Grant van Gameren’s restaurants, is cooking again.

He douses heirloom tomatoes in a fiery house hot sauce, crowns waxy new potatoes with a bubbling mass of funky brie de Meaux and marries a silken goose creton, to be smeared on pan-fried bread, with a grainy mustard given extra oomph from a spell in the smoker. The pinnacle of the current

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pickling fad may be the autumnal plate of cabbage, carrots and beans; it’s so sour your mouth will pucker for hours. Nothing, not the teak seating or the lumpenly luscious caramelized apple tart, is especially elegant—Rawlings is too busy chasing next-level flavour intensity to worry about pretty.

996 Queen St. W., 647-748-4416. $$$VA

POW WOW CAFE

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Shawn Adler’s tacos are unlike any other tacos in Toronto—and that’s saying a lot. The Ojibway Taco, the Kensington kitchen’s signature item, is comfort food at its finest. Adler, who also runs the Flying Chestnut Kitchen in Eugenia and a popular food truck, piles beef chili, veggie chili, jerk chicken or smoked pork shoulder on dense fry bread, then loads the whole thing up with tomatoes, cheddar cheese, sour cream, beets, corn shoots and cilantro.

It’s flavourful and filling, which makes it excellent cold-weather food. One special pairs perfectly cooked pickerel from Lake Nipissing with a massive side of fry bread. Daily brunch includes poached eggs, smoked salmon and a goat cheese cream sauce served on—you guessed it—more fry bread. 213 Augusta Ave., 416-551-7717. $$VOE

RICHMOND STATION

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Subway tiles, vintage posters of the city and a great glass cockpit of an entrance allude to the restaurant’s subway theme without actually conjuring the messy reality of public transportation. Here, chefs Carl Heinrich and Hayden Johnson offer an ambitious menu. Tiny cubes of tuna tartare, gently seasoned with tamari and horseradish, sitting on slices of hakurei turnip, show the kitchen’s delicate side, while pork meatballs with cornbread croutons are deliciously rustic. The burger—medium-rare on a milk bun with beet chutney and aged cheddar—is one of the city’s best, but a lobster capellini, while generous with the crustacean, lacks personality. Desserts, like an ultra-rich PB&J pudding, are as playful as they are tasty. Closed Sunday. 1 Richmond St. W., 647-748-1444. $$$VA

WOODLOT

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This quaint kitchen off College conjures up cottage evenings with its wood-burning oven and log cabin–like interior. Locavore fare, served in

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Katz’s Deli and Corned Beef Emporium’s Pastrami on Rye If a bustling New York deli merged with a cafeteria-style grab-a-tray operation, this North York meat market would be the result. Grab pickles and coleslaw, then park in front of the sandwich station, where a rumbling meat slicer peels off the layers of smoky goodness. Just add mustard. $9.95.

3300 Dufferin St., 416-782-1111.

Sun’s Kitchen’s Dan Dan Noodle Soup Experience noodle nirvana at this Pacific Mall food court kitchen, where sublimely chewy housemade dan dan noodles swimming in spicy broth beg to be slurped. A side of sweet soy milk is a nice touch. $5.97. Pacific Mall, 4300 Steeles Ave. E., Markham, 905-947-8463.

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Seven Lives’s The Gobernador Taco If you have time for only one taco in Kensington (and there are many), make it this one. Doubleshelled to hold the heft of its contents, the Gobernador is a delicious mess of shrimp and smoked marlin, all glued together with gooey mozzarella cheese. $6.

69 Kensington Ave., no phone.

Eating and Drinking 2018 toronto life 27

restaurants

squash and gooey melted cheese. Peanut Butter Stars—shortcrust pastry twisted around a sugary, nutty paste—are a must-order. Closed Saturday to Monday. 1376 Queen St. W., 416-532-8191. $$ WV

DRUPATI’S

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REAL JERK

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The first thing you need to know about doubles is that they are called doubles, even if you’re eating just one. It’s not “a double.” Ever. In Trinidad, the spicy sandwich (chickpea filling between fried buns) is a street food enjoyed in the morning. In Toronto, the breakfast thing isn’t strictly enforced, but what matters is that you get your doubles from Drupati’s, the Etobicoke-based mini-chain. And if you’re lucky, macaroni pie will be on special—the dense West Indian take on mac and cheese uses pimento cheese and is intensely creamy.

35 Woodbine Downs Blvd., Unit 3A, 416-745-4189; plus three other GTA locations. $$ WVOE

Hot Spot

After being unceremoniously kicked out of its longtime home on Queen, this Jamaican patriarch rose again on Gerrard East. The food is good, but the kitchen is a little too timid in its spicing. Chicken roti is saucy and bright, and jerk chicken is fragrant and tender, but neither makes much use of crucial scotch bonnet peppers. It doesn’t matter: come for the chewy salt cod fritters, the dense sweet potato pudding and the friendly counter service.

842 Gerrard St. E., 416-463-6055. $$VN

CHINESE

Octopus with peppers, shrimp and beans is one of the dishes from the “medium” section of the menu at Jen Agg’s new Kensington Market wine bar (page 24).

lumberjack-size portions, comes out of the open kitchen slowly, but it’s worth the wait. A lemony lobster potato salad is tossed in crème fraîche. Tart elderberry gastrique, rich brown butter and crunchy toasted almonds top a smoky, whey-fed pork chop sliced into glorious pink medallions.

After all that, the mild-tasting cheesecake—light as a Crunchie bar and dotted with wild blueberry compote and poached peach—is a refreshing finisher. 293 Palmerston Ave., 647-342-6307. $$$VAO

WOODS

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With a CanCon mandate rivalling that of the CBC, this Colborne Street hideaway showcases dishes and ingredients with suitably Canadian provenance. The cocktail list boasts a Canadian manhattan, but it’s mixed with a watery rye that makes “Canadian” feel a bit like a pejorative. There’s more to be proud of when it comes to the main dishes.

The muscovy duck breast is cooked to an exacting medium-rare and is served with a truly memorable duck-egg béarnaise and tatsoi so hyper-local it’s sourced from the restaurant’s green wall. It’s the inspired dessert menu that’s truly the sweetest part of the evening: a staid panna cotta is reimagined as a decadently loose jiggle of cream paired with a scoop of lavender gelato, playfully highlighting the different textures of each creamy component.

45 Colborne St., 416-214-9918. $$$VA

CARIBBEAN AF1 CARIBBEAN CANTEEN

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The latest of many kitchens to open up at the corner of College and Clinton is a hip, casual outpost for no-frills, finger-licking-good West Indian eats. Starters include crispy fish fritters served with a super-spicy hot sauce, and housemade Jamaican-style beef patties so good you’ll want to grab a few to take home. The menu’s meaty mains are divided by protein, priced by the pound and served with bread and coleslaw.

The braised oxtail with lima beans is rich and tasty, if a bit under-seasoned; the jerk chicken is smoky and tender. Sides include rice and peas, and curry veg, but the mac pie cooked with coconut cream is where it’s at. Ting and Red Stripe are available by the bottle, plus there’s potent rum punch by the glass. 596 College St., 647340-3924. $$ NE

BACCHUS ROTI

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Parkdale’s bright little roti shop has survived a changing neighbourhood, a new generation in the kitchen and even an ill-conceived Restaurant Makeover intervention. Chicken curry roti is the classic, though veg roti is where Bacchus shines.

The soft whole wheat shell can be filled with any combo of chickpeas, spinach, eggplant, sweet

28 toronto life Eating and Drinking 2018

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CHOP CHOP

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This is not the Tiao family’s first restaurant and not even their first in this location. Back in 2007, they operated Yu Shan Dumpling Cuisine in the same bright space and now they’re back with a sprucedup and stripped-down interior and a short menu of carefully prepared Chinese and Taiwanese sharing dishes. Cucumbers, topped with green onions and sesame, are lightly smashed, better to soak up the dark Chinkiang vinegar redolent sauce, for a smart salad. Elegant green onion pancakes flake off layers to reveal green onions galore. Sautéed green beans, their blistered exterior achieved by a quick deep-fry, are served with onion, peppers and intense niblets of preserved vegetables. Salt-andpepper fried squid is crisp as can be—and just the right amount of too-salty. 771 Dundas St. W., 416842-8277. $$ WV

CHUNG KING GARDEN

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The main attraction at this Markham restaurant is the terrific Peking duck, which comes in an elaborate three-course feast. First up: slices of succulent breast meat surrounded by crisp skin and sided with cucumber, scallions and hoisin pancakes.

They’re followed by a pleasant celery-heavy stirfry, accompanied by lettuce leaves for wrapping, and finally a rich soup made with the remaining meat. At $45.95, it’s the city’s best value. 4394 Steeles Ave. E., Markham, 905-513-8788. $$$VA

photograph by dave gillespie

grey gardens

CHARIDISE

The menu at this Baldwin Village spot is dominated by traditional Taiwanese dishes, but it also includes things like crispy chicken poutine and lamb chop spaghetti. By and large, they exceed the expectations raised by the caf-style trays and foodcourt design. Soft shreds of braised brisket in a dark star-anise broth with tender noodles and bok choy give the beef noodle soup real heft. Teriyaki chicken rice, hot and saucy, is served with skewers of zucchini and brussels sprouts, and slices of boiled egg. Snacks include plump takoyaki showered in bonito, popcorn chicken and sweet potato fries dusted with pleasantly sour purple plum powder. Everything arrives in eco-friendly bamboo containers, with a complimentary apple on the side. 27 Baldwin St., 647-351-6555. $$V N

CROWN PRINCESS FINE DINING

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During the day, this Bay Street spot buzzes with diners, heads bowed over dainty platters of fancy dim sum. For dinner, a conch dish features the thinly sliced shellfish, stir-fried with sugar snap peas and a briny XO sauce. The crisp curls of conch are a sweet foil to the grassier vegetables, but the precious portion is lost in the sea of green.

It’s a shocking contrast to a heartier plate of tender morning glory, stir-fried with preserved tofu.

Ginger juice steamed milk is a wobbly eggless custard that doubles as a digestif. 1033 Bay St., 416-923-8784. $$$$ WVAE

DAYALI

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Visitors wait half an hour for the roast duck at this Markham restaurant. It’s one of the best birds in the GTA: crackling skin shields ribbons of juicy meat to pull apart and wrap in thin pancakes freighted with toppings both typical (cucumber and hoisin) and novel (granulated sugar). Sichuan-inspired dishes include basa fillets boiled until tender and served in a tureen of hot oil chock-full of dried chilies and Sichuan peppercorns. 20 Gibson Dr., Markham, 905604-8680. $$$ WVA

JACKPOT CHICKEN RICE

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Craig Wong’s new Chinatown restaurant is his comeback after Patois, his Chinese-Jamaican fusion spot that was destroyed in a block fire. His chicken—poached Hainanese-style in a winter melon broth and served on a bed of schmaltz fried rice along with a bowl of chicken broth and (more) winter melon soup—is the closest thing to a curative for mid-winter colds. Less healthful, but worth it, are appetizers like deep-fried tempura broccoli dressed with kewpie mayo, shrimp pot stickers enhanced with Japanese curry paste, and chips of crisped chicken skin painted with dehydrated Sriracha sauce. 318 Spadina Ave., 416-792-8628. $$VAN

JOHN’S CHINESE BBQ RESTAURANT

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Diners in the know visit this family-run Richmond Hill restaurant for one thing: the sublime off-menu char siu (barbecued pork). A premium cut of belly is flash-roasted under the

TOp FIve

broiler until the meat is supple and smoky, then it’s slathered in a sweet honey sauce. Other dishes are just as good, such as crisp-skinned Peking duck and springy jellyfish noodles in sesame oil.

Cash only. 328 Hwy. 7 E., Unit 10, Richmond Hill, 905-881-3333. $$$ WVA

KWAN DIM SUM

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At every turn, the owners of Kwan have tried to distinguish their restaurant from the competition on Spadina: the room is calm, dimly lit and meditative, not clamorous; the service is friendly and attentive, not brusque; and the ingredients (and prices) are decidedly upscale. Chiu Chow beef is a big ol’ serving of buttery flank steak marinated in a tongue-tingling Sichuan peppercorn sauce. Tender cubes of pork belly are coated in a subtle house sauce, served alongside freshly steamed buns and garlicky bok choy. The dim sum menu is also worth sampling: plump pan-fried dumplings are stuffed with duck, chives and watercress, and massive octopus tentacles are expertly fried and dusted with a sprinkle of coarse sea salt.

1496 Yonge St., 416-901-6618. $$$VA

LAI WAH HEEN

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If you yearn for fine dining ’90s-style, when uniformed waiters served daintily garnished platters on acres of white linen, then a visit to this oldschool Chinese restaurant is in order. Dim sum aside, the main attraction is Peking duck: wheeled out, presented and carved tableside, it’s the epitome of dining with ceremony. An attentive server presides over each of two or three courses, gilding rice crêpe after delicate rice crêpe with thin slices of meat, a dollop of savoury-sweet hoisin, and slivers of leek and crunchy cucumber. The skin isn’t quite glass-like, but the flavour is fatty and rich and the pungent house XO sauce reeks enticingly of dried scallops and shrimp. The bird returns for an encore, stir-fried with crisp vegetables, tossed with crackling fried chow mein noodles, and once again assembled à la minute in iceberg lettuce cups.

108 Chestnut St., 2nd flr., 416-977-9899. $$$$ WVA

LUCKEE

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Here, Susur Lee’s menu plays with Chinese traditions smartly and inventively. Peking duck

retains its familiar lacquered, crackling skin and succulent, fatty flesh, but it defies convention to dazzling effect. Diners swaddle slivers of the meat in steamed Tibetan momo wrappers, dressing it with novel accompaniments like crunchy apple, vibrant watercress and decadent foie gras terrine. Moist fish, steamed impeccably, yields without effort, but it’s unsalted and inferior in flavour to both the accompanying mushrooms and intensely savoury sauce. The wine list caters to those with deep pockets, but dessert—three deep-fried sesame balls sprinkled with icing sugar—remains accessible to all palates and wallets. 328 Wellington St. W., 416-935-0400. $$$$ WVA NE

MOTHER’S DUMPLINGS

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Chef Zhen’s dumpling house remains Toronto’s go-to destination for Beijing and northeastern Chinese comfort food. Whole wheat dumplings are packed with ginger-laced pork and sweet, vinegary strands of pickled cabbage. Toothsome wheat noodles are served in a hearty broth studded with sweet ground pork, earthy oyster mushrooms and buttery braised cabbage. 421 Spadina Ave., 416-217-2008. $ WVA

COLOMBIAN MI TIERRA

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A culinary time capsule, this family-run St. Clair West Colombian joint feels familiar even the first time—and if you’re hankering for a sweet-as-hell bar-lime slushy margarita, you couldn’t be in a better place. Golden empanadas, made with a cornmeal crust and stuffed with tender beef, are so good you’ll want an extra order to go. The restaurant’s take on Colombia’s best-known dish, bandeja paisa, is a carnivore’s dream; the heartstopping platter features grilled steak, crispy pork belly trimmed to look like the teeth of a gear, and a grilled pork sausage—all served over a heaping pile of rice and a pool of tomatoey baked beans, and topped with ripe avocado and a fried egg. On Saturday, live Colombian folk music rounds out the experience. 828 St. Clair Ave. W., 416-654-8886. $$$ WV

Top Dishes

photographs by dave gillespie; ardo, noorden and leña courtesy of the restaurants

From Where to Eat 2017, some of the year’s most memorable dishes

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Doma’s Duck Course Toronto’s Best New Restaurants: No. 2 A deft plating of duck two ways: slices of seared breast and confit-stuffed dumplings.

50C Clinton St., 416-551-1550.

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Ardo’s Anchovy Crostini Toronto’s Best New Restaurants: No. 15 Plump, white anchovies, roasted red pepper and a scattering of fennel fronds on crostini.

243 King St. E., 647-347-8930.

restaurants

CONTINENTAL BARNSTEINER’S

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For 15 years, Michelle and Herbert Barnsteiner operated Corner House, a beloved haunt set in a cozy, creaky cottage. At their Summerhill restaurant, a moneyed crowd packs the two dining rooms, discussing home wine cellar renos while enjoying hearty European nosh. Best bets are the meat-forward dishes, like the perfectly seared maple-glazed duck breast on a velvety purée of butternut squash and black currants. Despite the guests’ deep pockets, the wine list offers a number of affordable options. 1 Balmoral Ave., 416515-0551. $$$ WVAO

BYMARK

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Mark McEwan’s subterranean clubhouse may no longer stand out in the downtown core, where Bay Streeters flock to what’s new and buzzy. But 15 years in, the star chef can still show the new kids on the block how it should be done. A deconstructed grilled-peach-and-tomato salad makes the most convincing case yet that summer should never end, and dry-aged strip loins and rib-eyes never go out of style. À la carte sides, especially the roasted cauliflower with lemon mascarpone and the jalapeño corn risotto, are worth the upsell. And every dish, even the stack of fries that accompanies the $39 cheeseburger, is dramatically plated. About that burger: topped with rich brie de Meaux, shaved truffles and grilled porcinis, its hefty price tag is justified. 66 Wellington St. W., 416-777-1144. $$$$ WVAO

DANDYLION

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As evening light filters through factory windows on Queen West, a complimentary loaf of soft, warm sourdough hits the table with a pot of freshly whipped fromage blanc. Then comes a glass of crisp pinot bianco and a menu so short and joy-inducing you’d think it was edited by Marie Kondo. This respite in the middle of the Drake-Gladstone party zone belongs to Jason Carter, a long-time member of Susur Lee’s team.

Diced raw beef is dolloped with mustard cream and sprinkled with ultra-spicy radish and water-

cress, a bit of sorghum buried inside the ruby nest.

There are often surprise wild ingredients, like the forest of bitter, pine-green agretti on a wild turbot fillet pan-seared until a crackling gold crust forms, or the dainty baby artichoke hearts whose pink centres match the sparkling squares of tuna tataki beneath them. By the time a pro server delivers dessert—wild blueberries piled on dense butter cake with a scoop of smooth lemon verbena ice cream—you get it: less really can be more.

1198 Queen St. W., 647-464-9100. $$$VA

FLOR DE SAL

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Casa Loma’s Flor de Sal is a place where people still get dressed up to eat, a white-tablecloth spot where everything is designed to feel expensive— from the location, to the dapper servers, to the decor, heavy with marble and metallic touches.

Dinner here starts with an amuse-bouche (recently, a lovely salmon tartare on a single slice of watermelon radish) and there’s a palate cleanser in between courses. A starter of tender grilled octopus is perfectly charred and paired with sweet confit grape tomato, earthy sea asparagus and pickled baby red onions. Jumbo piri piri shrimp are equally well executed, accompanied by roasted peppers and a caramelized pineapple romesco sauce. Plenty of the main dishes skew pescatarian—seared branzino, bacon-wrapped monkfish, salt cod and cataplana—but the perfectly cooked roasted rack of lamb, with garlicsautéed broccoli and polenta fries, is an exceptional choice for carnivores. 501 Davenport Rd., 416-923-2604. $$$$ WVA

GEORGE

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If it weren’t a destination restaurant, George could be a museum dedicated to the style of North American fine dining that has largely been pushed aside in the small-plates era. Choose from five-, seven- or 10-course tasting menus (vegetarians get their very own menus here) or chef Lorenzo Loseto’s focused three-course à la carte menu, where the simplicity of the descriptions (“pheasant, cheddar grits, cherry”) does nothing to herald the polychromatic layers that arrive with every dish. Only a bland, late-season soft-shell crab is prettier to look at than to taste. But the

cocktails are classic, the wine list deep and dexterous, and the service invariably smooth. 111C Queen St. E., 416-863-6006. $$$ WVAO

LUMA

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The menu at O&B’s polished second-floor dining room in the TIFF Bell Lightbox is crowd-friendly and approachable. Wild salmon is pan-roasted until golden and served on top of tender roasted beets, marble potatoes and al dente string beans.

No matter the main, a side order of the popular truffle parmesan fries is a must. Classic desserts include a trio of fruity sorbets and a pistachiodusted lemon tart sided with a ball of rich sourcream ice cream and ethereal meringue buttons.

Closed Sunday. 350 King St. W., 647-288-4715. $$$ WVAO

NORTH 44º

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The dream of the ’90s is alive in North Toronto: sesame-crusted ahi tuna, truffled frites, veal “two ways”—all the hits that were popular when this linen-draped restaurant first opened nearly 30 years ago. Standards remain high even if execution feels rote. Warm bread, swaddled in linen, and soft butter arrive with the house wine, an unoaked chardonnay. And appetizers include slice upon slice of heavily cured Irish salmon, with fat-cutting pickled beets and blood-orange segments over a creamy corn purée. Fat lamb chops, big as steaks, get the Mediterranean treatment with chickpea falafels, charred jerusalem artichokes and mild harissa. The Mondrian-esque arrangement of rhubarb jelly, poached strawberry, lime crémeux and lime-infused strawberry ice cream on a crisp rectangular tart shell makes for a dramatic and complex finish. 2537 Yonge St., 416-487-4897. $$$$ WVA

OPUS

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For tony regulars, out-of-towners looking for lobster, or just a couple of plebes splurging on a fancy meal, the experienced servers at this Yorkville institution make any night a memorable one.

Seared foie gras with a black currant–maple syrup reduction is fatty, soft, salty and a superb opener. A main of black pepper–crusted tuna has a nice kick.

37 Prince Arthur Ave., 416-921-3105. $$$$O

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Leña’s Churros Toronto’s Best New Restaurants: No. 7 Airy churros dipped in a teacup of Soma’s Mayan chocolate.

176 Yonge St., 416-507-3378.

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Noorden’s Ribs Toronto’s Best New Restaurants: No. 6 Pork ribs glazed with sambal cobek, a five-alarm chili sauce.

2110 Yonge St., 416-488-2110.

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Awai’s Paella Toronto’s Best New Restaurants: No. 10 A funky vegetable paella with oyster mushrooms, black truffle and huitlacoche.

2277 Bloor St. W., 647-643-3132.

Eating and Drinking 2018 toronto life 31

restaurants SCARAMOUCHE

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Less a restaurant than an institution, this midtown stalwart with the million-dollar view has dazzled its devoted clientele since 1980. Keith Froggett’s sublime menu of local, seasonal ingredients prepared with meticulous technique constantly evolves. Tempura zucchini blossoms—with housemade ricotta, lemon, marinated cherry tomatoes, basil pesto and arugula—is an exuberant expression of late summer, even deep-fried. Halibut with macerated heirloom tomatoes, zucchini herb purée, artichoke and olives balances acidic, herbaceous and briny elements with subtle skill. A spoonful of dense, lightly bitter chocolate crémeux layered with tart raspberries, chocolate ganache, devil’s food cake and crackling feuilletine, served with lychee sorbet, marks a lovely end to the evening. 1 Benvenuto Pl., 416-961-8011. $$$$VA

CUBAN LA CUBANA

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Even on a rainy night, there’s a queue to get into La Cubana, the spot from Corinna Mozo, the chefowner who ran Delux on Ossington. She had the space modelled on the seafoam-hued room of a diner her grandfather once ran in Cuba: swivel bar stools overlook an open kitchen where cooks in Jays caps fry plush conch fritters and shimmy to vintage jazz. The menu consists of both snack-size plates, like a sandwich of guava-glazed beef and tangy pickled cabbage barely contained by a Cuban-style sweet egg bun, and larger dishes, like Ontario pickerel. 92 Ossington Ave., 416-537-0134; 392 Roncesvalles Ave., 416-538-7500. $$VANE

DINER HARRY’S CHARBROIL

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Harry’s has the cultivated appearance of a dive bar stuffed inside an all-day diner. The music is too loud for real conversation, the bathrooms are borderline deplorable and it’s so dark that it’s almost impossible to see the food. In other words, it’s a lot of fun. What separates it from other greasy spoons happens behind the scenes. Grant van Gameren and his team bought the 48-year-old Parkdale institution last year, distinguishing the menu with a few sly flourishes. Chef Nate Young’s Red Burger—a spicy chorizo patty tucked into a Wonder Bread bun with a ring of grilled pineapple and a slice of oaxaca cheese—deserves city-wide acclaim.

Cocktails are old-school classics, poured with just the right amount of slapdash enthusiasm. Cash only. 160 Springhurst Ave., 416-532-2908. $$ WVNE

ROSE AND SONS

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Five years in, the little diner that helped turn chef Anthony Rose into the city’s ascendant restaurateur has really hit its stride. Like nearly everything Rose meddles with, it’s hip without being exclusionary, and the food decadently messy while retaining a touch of refinement. Rose’s famous patty melt burger—a ground chuck patty with caramelized onions sandwiched between two slices of buttery and cheesy rye bread—has remained on the menu for good reason. Muchloved orders of brisket and fried chicken help the restaurant stay true to the diner theme. On weekend mornings, an orderly queue forms on Dupont Street as patrons wait for a hangover-curing brunch. 176 Dupont St., 647-748-3287. $$ VAE

SKYLINE RESTAURANT

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The new owners of Parkdale’s lovably sketchy diner have kept it largely intact, and the revamped menu still includes burgers, tuna melts and chicken souvlaki (except now, all meat is sourced from local farms). Best bets are the classics: the Skyline Special—a triple-decker club with turkey salad and

32 toronto life Eating and Drinking 2018

bacon—tarts up, but still honours, the beloved original. Freshly baked pies make for a sweet finish.

1426 Queen St. W., 416-536-3682. $$VNE

slow-cooked, adobo-marinated deep-fried chicken justifies another pitcher of mojitos. 1285 Bloor St. W., 416-551-0355. $$VNE

UNITED BAKERS

LAMESA

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In the city’s Jewish community, United Bakers is equal parts joke and ritual. The mirrored ceilings are bordered with bagel-printed wallpaper, and the sneakered servers are downright hostile. But the kitchen makes glorious Jewish soul food.

There’s no better choice than classic cream cheese and lox: a massive scoop of tangy cheese, salty smoked salmon, a handful of capers, cucumber, tomato and onions. You load it all on a twister bagel—a woven, Frisbee-size number. Unlicensed.

506 Lawrence Ave. W., 416-789-0519. $$V

WHITE LILY DINER

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He’s got 20 years and six kitchens under his apron strings, but, with his newest venture, chef Ben Denham is keeping it small and simple. At this Riverside diner, the focus is on southern classics done in surprising ways. Golden rosti-like hash browns come topped with malt mayo and green onion, while charred broccoli, dusted with shaved aged ricotta, swims in a naughty-but-nice sausage gravy. On a list of four patty melts, the Reuben stacks house-made rye with (also house-made) sauerkraut, a pink-in-the-middle beef patty, Russian dressing and Swiss cheese. Desserts are made on the premises, too: butter tarts hide maple-and-bourbon-plumped raisins, and a selection of yeast doughnuts includes one glazed with chocolate and finished with a sprinkling of Maldon sea salt. Service is super-friendly and diner-fast. Closed Monday and Tuesday.

678 Queen St. E., 416-901-7800. $$ WVAE

ETHIOPIAN ETHIOPIAN HOUSE

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Bright, lively and crammed with African art, Ethiopian House is a pleasant alternative to the chain dining establishments on Yonge Street. The vegetarian lunch special of creamy seasoned chickpeas, carrots, collard greens, split peas and lentil stew is punched up with berbere, a bold Ethiopian spice blend of chilies, garlic, ginger, basil, nigella and fenugreek. One lunch special brings intense kifto: ground beef spiked with ginger, cumin and turmeric. 4 Irwin Ave., 416-923-5438. $$VNO

LALIBELA

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This popular Christie Pits spot offers the full range of Ethiopian flavours. The lamb key wat has luscious hunks of meat smothered in a mellow berbere sauce. The hen legs in yehabesha doro are similarly moist and seasoned with many of the same spices, but the gravy is creamier and pricked with potent chilies. The vegetarian options—including a buttery split pea and onion stew—are also excellent.

869 Bloor St. W., 416-535-6615. $$ WVANE

FILIPINO DOLLY’S MOJITO BAR AND PANCITERIA SSS

Operated by Dave Sidhu, the impresario behind the hit-and-miss Playa Cabana restaurants, Dolly’s is named after Sidhu’s mom (and worthy of her name). Bartenders hand-crank sugar cane through a mill, the juice used to sweeten coconut- and calamansi-jolted mojitos. The best dish is the pancit ginataan, its noodles steamed in banana leaf then, at the table, carefully lowered into a hot pot of coconut broth laced with turmeric and tamarind—a slightly healthier version of the northern Thai khao soi. There’s also a very tasty tamarind-dressed slaw of ube and green papaya, as well as a deliciously greasy fried rice with slices of chorizo-like longanisa. The salty spiciness of a fantastic plate of

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Lester Sabilano and chef Daniel Cancino have a rare understanding of how colonial history influences a cuisine’s flavours and, more important, how those flavours can be sold to a mainstream audience. Pancit, a typically egg-heavy noodle dish, is lightened up with a handful of green peas, chopped mint and red chili. The pork inasal—a 7 Up–marinated pork chop grilled, chopped and tossed with cooked pineapple and pearl onions— is sticky, sweet and excellent all at once. For dessert, there’s halo-halo, a colourful sundae of strawberry jelly, purple taro ice cream and sugarsoaked mung beans. Closed Monday. 669 Queen St. W., 647-346-2377. $$$VE

LASA

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This converted grocery store gets packed with hungry diners and takeout customers waiting for the kitchen’s stewed, fried or grilled dishes. Karekare—a stew of oxtail, eggplant and peanut sauce—is deliciously rich, and a simple plate of ultra-crispy fried chicken and rice is amped up with chili seasoning and plenty of garlic infused into every grain. For dessert: there’s a mountain of halo-halo. Unlicensed. Closed Monday.

634 St. Clair Ave. W., 647-343-1110. $$V

FRENCH ALO

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Patrick Kriss’s Alo, three storeys above Queen and Spadina, avoids all the tasting-menu pitfalls.

Courses come with options (counting the amusebouche and intermediary courses, the number of plates can actually hit 14), and there’s not a whiff of stuffiness about the beautiful space. Ultimately, what sets Alo apart is Kriss. In his kitchen, lamb becomes as tender as beef cheek, and a stew of veal tendon, trotters, cockscomb, kombu and bonito is finished with frozen and shaved foie gras. Closed Sunday and Monday. 163 Spadina Ave., 3rd flr., 416-260-2222. $$$$ WV

AUBERGE DU POMMIER

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O&B’s once-fusty 30-year-old uptown flagship is one of the city’s most exciting places to eat. Every dish is an ingenious blend of tradition and innovation. Take the frog leg, the most traditional Gallic staple: here, it’s fried in tempura batter, then served over a mound of pickly remoulade and toasty slivered almonds. Traditionalists need not worry—a flawless soufflé, infused with candied lemons and practically drowning in white chocolate ganache, makes a sublime finish to the meal. Closed Sunday.

4150 Yonge St., 416-222-2220. $$$$ VAO

CAFÉ CANCAN

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Now that chef Victor Barry has perfected casual Italian-American at his much-lauded Piano Piano, he’s up and moved across the street, into the old Harbord Room space, for his latest venture: a classic, all-day bistro with rosé on tap. Big-ticket items, like the côte de boeuf special (pour deux) and the duck confit are popular for a reason, but a virtuous hors d’oeuvre of chilled fennel, snap peas, carrot rounds, radishes and a light buttermilk dip, along with boquerones, quality ham and very good cheddar, leaves more room for exploring the foie gras menu. 89 Harbord St., 647-341-3100. $$$ OAE

CHABROL

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Doug Penfold’s tiny Yorkville bistro is accessed via an alley and is barely visible from the street: even an innocent lunch date acquires a whiff of discreet rendezvous. Penfold works at a couple of burners behind the bar, thriving under the con-

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straints. He composes note-perfect pork liver mousse; chestnut soup fragrant with sorrel; a ballotine of chicken wrapped around roasted apples, with a jolt of herbaceousness from a watercress purée; and steaming side plates of celeriac and escarole gratin. He saves the best for last: made-toorder apple tart, with warm calvados sabayon slowly poured overtop. 90 Yorkville Ave., 416428-6641. $$$VO

CHANTECLER

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The narrow, ramshackle room remains its endearing self, with tight-packed tables and enough beards to meet Parkdale bylaws. Its bistro menu wouldn’t look out of place on the Left Bank, and it’s full of the classics: piping-hot cheese puffs, springy snails, salty rounds of roasted tomatoes bathed in a mushroom and chive broth, and succulent duck wrapped in crêpes with its own gravy. Double-fried frites, as golden as a Trump hotel and dusted with a concoction of salt, sugar, fenugreek and cinnamon, are a city-wide champ. For dessert, there’s a perfectly tempting baked Alaska—though you’d do just as well to end with a brandy and vermouth cocktail tasting of cherries and long nights, called (what else?) a Marcel Marceau. Closed Wednesday. 1320 Queen St. W., 416-628-3586. $$$VN

GARE DE L’EST BRASSERIE

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Executive chef John Sinopoli’s all-day brasserie beside new Leslieville theatre Streetcar Crowsnest wears its Gallic heart on its sleeve, and at dinner, all the greatest hits are on display: tartare, confit, frites. A foie gras torchon deftly balances richness with sweet sharpness. In season, tomatoes are sliced, diced and plated alongside cucumbers, both fresh and pickled, avocado mousse, and mint, but for all the action on the plate, the flavours never achieve cohesion. Trout almandine with haricots verts and a supple beurre blanc shows a surer hand from the kitchen, and steak frites features a crusty, pan-seared culotte alongside pencil-size fries that have wisely taken their cue from McD’s. Strong work from the bartenders gives the lounge real authority. 1190 Dundas St. E., 416-792-1626. $$$ OVN

GRETA SOLOMON’S DINING ROOM SSS

Owner Darlene Mitchell hails from Newfoundland— home of cod tongues and flipper pie—but the food she and chef James Vigil serve in this tiny Leslieville room is unmistakably French. A panseared sea scallop, sourced from neighbouring Hooked, is flanked by crispy bits of oxtail, radish slices, plump raisins, turnip purée and pickled cauliflower, and piping-hot Swiss chard gratin with bacon is sauced with creamy mornay and topped with gruyère. Beef tenderloin is served on fingerling confit potatoes, and spectacular morels—done up in duck fat and demi-glace—are dressed in chive-studded béarnaise. The wine list is long and thoughtful for such a diminutive spot, and the list of desserts—like a deconstructed fruit tart wrapped in a shortbread collar with elderflower chantilly—equally so. 1118 Queen St. E., 647347-8640. $$V

JULES BISTRO

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The second outpost of the 17-year-old Fashion District bistro illustrates the power of location.

Run by owners David Piltz and Lyon expat chef Eric Strippoli, the restaurant’s sophomore site has found early favour from a young crowd who pack the narrow, dimly lit room trading gossip.

The large menu lists traditional bistro fare— think: niçoise salads, steak frites and tuna tartare. An affordable prix fixe and a selection of larger sharing items, like an epic côte de boeuf, rack of lamb or whole Cornish hen, also make Jules easy to like—and a cloud-light chocolate mousse doesn’t hurt either. 924 Queen St. W., 416533-5454. $$$ O

LA BANANE

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Brandon Olsen’s Ossington bistro is not a stuffy one. It’s a lot more fun—like a year-round New Year’s Eve dinner party with flapper-era cocktails in fluted glasses, an ice-bed-based raw bar and a disco soundtrack. Here, you’ll find the city’s finest example of a pâté en croûte, with golden pastry encasing peppery duck-pork stuffing and a cap of wine gelée on top. Julia Child would approve of how Olsen finishes his creamy crab and paella rice gratin in the crustacean’s shell, and how he achieves that extremely rare thing: a correct omelette—crisp exterior, nearly custardy within, timed to the microsecond. An omelette for dinner is one of the more peculiarly French traditions, and (for an extra $80) an excuse to order caviar.

227 Ossington Ave., 416-551-6263. $$$VA

LE BARATIN

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This scrappy little bistro on Dundas West aims to bring classic French cooking to the masses. Cleverly repurposed lathe wood accents, industrial shelving and pressboard tables make a virtue of frugality and keep the pricing on chef Jean Regis Raynaud’s menu affordable. Other corners are cut, though: an otherwise flavourful house-cured gravlax is hampered by the dry buckwheat blini it rests on, and a special of tilefish falls on the overcooked side. However, there’s no faulting a cheesy tarte provençale gilded with thin slices of oven-dried tomato, or two slabs of crispy pork belly in a textbook port sauce made all the richer with mashed potatoes and caramelized radishes. Crowdpleasing Gallic desserts—tarte tatin, mousse au chocolat, crème caramel—prove their timelessness.

1600 Dundas St. W., 416-534-8800. $$ E

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Six years in, the kitchen’s French bistro fare, like a perfectly seared salmon fillet and du Puy lentils in lemony tarragon beurre blanc, is still flawlessly executed. Occasional ventures into foreign culinary territory are just as magnifique: sea bass ceviche with radish, jalapeño and cilantro bristles with fiery, vegetal undertones that elevate an otherwise bland protein. Ambitious, technically demanding desserts, including mille feuille, a tower of puff pastry interlaced with layers of tart raspberry and lemon curd and unctuous vanilla cream, would impress were the decadent fillings not accompanied by heavy, stale pastry. Cordial servers time the arrival of thoughtfully recommended wine pairings from the expansive and expensive wine list with precision. 131 Bloor St. W., 2nd flr., 416-551-9929. $$$$ WOAE

MAISON FOU BRASSERIE

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At this elegant but unstuffy French restaurant in Bloor West Village, Montreal expat James Petrin (Salt Wine Bar) treats humble ingredients—offal, chicken tails, potatoes—with serious respect.

Fried chicken livers, deliciously crunchy, sit in a decadent puddle of creamed leeks; lightly pickled shallots offer piquant counterpoint. An ultracreamy crab bisque is fragrant with saffron and thick enough to support a few crab beignets and a swirl of crème fraîche. The kitchen gets playful by introducing flavours from former French colonies, including Vietnam, Louisiana and—as in the roasted lamb shoulder with minty chickpea ragoût—Morocco. For dessert, there’s a crème brûlée made with absinthe and a poached-pear tarte tatin doused in an addictive mulled wine reduction. 2197 Bloor St. W., 416-786-9771. $$ WAE

GREEK ESTIA SSS1

Charles Khabouth and Hanif Harji have turned NAO, their macho steakhouse, into a glam seafood restaurant that feels like a Mediterranean club as imagined by Jay Gatsby, washed in chandelier light

34 toronto life Eating and Drinking 2018

and Yorkville money. Sparkling-fresh whole fish is the star: delicate sea bass is cooked tender over a wood-fuelled flame, splashed with roasted-lemon juice and grassy olive oil, then flayed tableside and sprinkled with barely bitter grape leaves. Halloumi, seared to form a thick, truffle-honeyed crust and served with warm red grapes, is like a killer grilled cheese with jam. And crudo brings finely shaved kingfish, as pink and delicate as a tutu, with caper berries, horseradish and lemon zest, all showered in more olive oil. Cocktails, like the bubbly Estia spritz made with Xinomavro rosé, lemon juice and grapefruit zest, are light and bright to suit the food, as are desserts, like a pistachio-grapefruit tart with saffron ice cream. 90 Avenue Rd., 416367-4141. $$$ WOV

ESTIATORIO VOLOS

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There’s flaming saganaki and moussaka, but Estiatorio Volos positions itself as a contemporary Greek restaurant: no souvlaki platters or taramasalata here. The biggest differences between this downtown dining room and a Danforth taverna are the lukewarm hospitality, outstanding selection of trendy Greek wines—xinomavro and assyrtiko— and an emphasis on fresh seafood. Whole red snapper is a better pick than grilled octopus (which is more memorable for its accompanying nutty eggplant dip) or a slab of overcooked swordfish (served in a bland tomato broth over a previously unannounced heap of mussels)—for various reasons, “surprise” and “shellfish” are two words that don’t belong together. The exohiko lamb pie nearly makes up for it, with rich phyllo pastry enveloping braised lamb, leeks, spinach and addictively salty feta and kefalotyri cheeses. 133 Richmond St. W. 416-861-1211. $$$$V

MAMAKAS TAVERNA

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It’s no easy feat opening a Greek restaurant in this city, especially one far from the Danforth stretch that eschews the flaming-cheese theatrics that Toronto diners have been trained to expect. But two years in, smack in the middle of the Ossington strip, Mamakas still stands out. Traditional standbys like spanakopita and moussaka share menu space with the kind of rustic plates you’d find at an Aegean taverna, as well as refined dishes that wouldn’t be out of place in an Athens hot spot. Still, the kitchen smartly recognizes the importance of letting simple ingredients shine: fried veal-and-beef meatballs are crispy, if under-spiced, on a bed of velvety hummus and garlicky parsley sauce, while sweet, compressed rhubarb and roasted macadamia nuts add complexity to saganaki. Puréed fava—an underused ingredient in Toronto kitchens—and salty capers accompany charred octopus. The bar’s signature cocktails swap in Greek hooch like Metaxa and Mavrodaphne with stellar results. 80 Ossington Ave., 416-519-5996. $$$V

HAITIAN RHUM CORNER SS1

This venue from Black Hoof owner Jen Agg and her husband, artist Roland Jean, recreates the laidback vibe of a Port-au-Prince hangout. Savoury Haitian fritters made from grated malanga, a yamlike tuber, are served with a bracing scotch bonnet–laced coleslaw. Griot—pork cooked sousvide, then fried—has a powerful citrus tang. Goat is as rich and tender as a long-simmered boeuf bourguignon, stewed with the bones for extra depth. A wall behind the bar displays 100 rum varieties. 926 Dundas St. W., no phone. $$V

INDIAN AND SRI LANKAN BOMBAY CHOWPATTY

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Spicy snacks at this Little India hole in the wall include the Bombay burger, a potato patty slathered

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with potent chickpea curry on a fluffy bun. Thickcut, masala-dusted fries come doused with rich yogurt, spicy green chutney and tangy tamarind sauce. A puffy slice of fried bread drips with grease but gets a punch of flavour from the rich chickpea curry. 1386 Gerrard St. E., 416-405-8080. $VNO

CURRY TWIST

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At this Junction spot, whole and ground spices form pronounced flavour bases for the curries, often with plenty of coconut milk mixed in. Creamy chicken and Goan fish curries are as sweet as they are spicy, cooked with plenty of mustard seed and dried red chilies, respectively. Dhal amritsari, made with black lentils and kidney beans, is simmered with mint to cut through the starch. The only flavour that could use a dial-back is ginger, little nests of which appear in every dish. Closed Monday. 3034 Dundas St. W., 416-769-5460. $$V

INDIAN STREET FOOD CO. SS1

This addition to Hemant Bhagwani’s empire subs out the modern Indian cuisine and formal aesthetics he’s known for, replacing it with cheeky graffiti art and dishes pulled from India’s railway stations.

Baingan bhaja, a Bengali eggplant snack, gets the french-fry treatment: it’s sliced, fried and served with mustard yogurt. Almonds give patties of aloo tikka some crunch, minced chicken lends sweetness, and fresh strained yogurt provides a silky, tart finish. In fact, most anything touched with dairy here—including jalebi-topped cheesecake—is a sure bet. 1701 Bayview Ave., 416-322-3270. $$VA

JI

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Harsh Chawla and Derek Valleau, owners of Pukka, St. Clair West’s phenomenal curry house, are cornering the city’s market for refined Indian nosh here at Ji. It’s more casual, framing itself as a South Asian pub serving street food–style eats. A starter of brisket poutine pairs garam masala– spiced fries with a rich pulled-beef curry gravy and house-made paneer, and macaroni makhani— cavatappi baked in a creamy butter chicken sauce— really shouldn’t work as well as it does. For the purists, there are more traditional plates, like a slow-cooked lamb shank in an aromatic rogan josh curry. The beer selection is as extensive as Pukka’s excellent wine list. 760 St. Clair Ave. W., 416792-5550. $$VO

NIRVANA

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Thick carpet, chandeliers and paintings of bygone maharajas gild the cavernous dining room. Attentive, almost fawning service reinforces the upscale feel, as does immaculately presented food. Hare bhare kebabs, crispy cabbage and carrot fritters, sweet with raisins, are enlivened by tangy, peppery tamarind and verdant green chutneys.

Chunks of braised lamb bathed in pepper, onion and coriander gravy make up a rib-sticking kadhai gosht. Gulab jamun, Timbit-like ovals of fried dough in a honeyed syrup, will electrify anyone with an unabashed sweet tooth. Extensive drink options meander from Freddy Fudpucker–type cocktails to $325 French vintages. 35 Brunel Rd., Unit 5, Mississauga, 905-501-5500. $$V

PUKKA

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In this St. Clair West dining room, regulars catch up over plates of tamarind- and chili-inflected popcorn chicken and crispy okra fries. While the menu would be lacking without samosas and butter chicken, there’s also garam masala–crusted duck breast, seared perfectly pink and served with a chili-lime reduction. String chaat, traditionally a street snack of shaved fruits and veg, is colourful, complex and a menu standout. Scaramouche’s Peter Boyd has selected sophisticated new- and oldworld bottles to complement the nuanced cooking.

778 St. Clair Ave. W., 416-342-1906. $$$OV

TICH

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Everything about the curries and tandoor-roasted mains on chef Sujoy Saha’s menu demonstrates his talent for bringing flavours to the foreground.

Two standouts are the tandoor-grilled kesari prawns soaked in yogurt and saffron, and lamb vindaloo, a defiantly hot curry with plenty of garlic, vinegar and cloves. A second or third round of cooling mango lassis might be in order to get through the bowl, but it will be worth it—few dishes in the city hurt this good. Closed Monday.

2314 Lake Shore Blvd. W., 647-349-8424. $$ OV

INDONESIAN LITTLE SISTER

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With its friendly tattooed servers, loud house music and boozy cocktails, this piece of Parkdale

TOp FIvE

Late-Night Snack Bars Five of the best spots for nocturnal noshing

Pinkerton Snack Bar At this east-end snack bar, chef Andy Wilson turns out Asianinfluenced small plates for the resident partiers drinking classic cocktails to a playlist that includes both hip hop and ABBA. 1026 Gerrard St. E., 416-855-1460.

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Maple Leaf Tavern One of the sketchiest dives in the city was brought back to life, and it’s now the place for Riverdale locals to catch up over a pint or a late-night cheeseburger loaded with dill relish and garlic mayo.

955 Gerrard St. E., 416-465-0955.

36 toronto life Eating and Drinking 2018

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Bar Begonia Anthony Rose’s Annex bistro is the place to canoodle by candlelight, sharing plates of fromage in between sips of wine.

Everything is meant for grazing, including luscious steak tartare served with golden gaufrettes. 252 Dupont St., 647-352-3337.

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Lo Pan Nick Liu’s moody cocktail lounge above DaiLo offers a nocturnal take on dim sum until last call. Instead of dumplings, he serves KFC-style popcorn tofu, crispy confit duck wings and his famousfor-a-reason Big Mac bao. 503 College St., 647-341-8882.

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Harry’s Charbroil At Grant van Gameren’s Parkdale diner, Nate Young’s excellent Red Burger—a spicy chorizo patty topped with a pineapple ring and oaxaca cheese—is served ’til the wee hours of the morning.

160 Springhurst Ave., 416-532-2908.

photograph by dave gillespie

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current incarnation under chef Damon Campbell is one of the city’s best hotel restaurants. And with tasting menus starting at just $70, it’s also a relative bargain. Glistening pearls of Northern Divine caviar bejewel a savoury doughnut, and a duo of bison (seared loin, braised rib) unexpectedly and deliciously invoke Southeast Asia with peanut, chili and tamarind. A dish of Spanish mackerel with grilled octopus, fermented chili and tiny gnocchi is the perfect balance of refined and relaxed—much like the restaurant’s sharp servers.

188 University Ave., 647-788-8294. $$$$ WOV NE

hOT spOT

BUNNY’S

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Chef Rodney Bowers has turned his first venture, Hey Meatball, into Bunny’s, a moody room decorated with all things rabbit (including a few pieces of somewhat macabre art). The food here is, for Bowers, who has cooked in some of the city’s top kitchens, a return to finer fare. A slab of brûléed chicken liver pâté is balanced beautifully with onion jam and fresh blueberries, and a tasty, though underdressed, whole-leaf caesar salad is adorned with big and delightfully chewy lardons, croutons, hard-cooked egg and shaved parm. With a golf ball–size knob of gorgonzola butter on top, the flatiron steak is cooked to rare inside, nicely charred outside; it sits in a pool of buttery potato purée with a side of bitter greens to cut through all the decadence. The wine list is short but well chosen, and there are a few house cocktails, like the Pink Bunny, a sweet play on a classic French martini. 912 Queen St. E., 647-340-6439. $$$VAE

CACTUS CLUB CAFE

Chef Guy Rawlings serves Canadian dishes composed of uber-local and housemade ingredients in a bunker-like dining room at Montgomery’s (page 27).

at Yonge and Eg is a favourite of the locals.

They’re drawn in by chef Michael van den Winkel’s well-priced, flavour-packed Indonesian dishes. Best bets are the semur java, a sweet, deeply rich curry of braised beef shoulder (great with the nasi goreng fried rice); the satay ayam skewers with creamy peanut sauce; and shredded chicken tacos, packed with pickled cucumbers and crispy shallots. Any missteps, like a fried cauliflower salad that could use another few minutes of cooking time, or a spice-heavy shrimp curry, are minor aberrations. 2031 Yonge St., 416-488-2031. $$ O

INTERNATIONAL BEAST SS

Almost eight years in and Beast is still going strong, but the typically meat-focused menu is now balanced out with some lighter and vegetablebased options. This means that mainstays like the “poutine” of fried gnocchi and sticky, sweet, soyinflected hunks of pork hock share space with plates of tuna crudo, baby arugula and candied pecans. For dessert, pastry chef Tanya Kelly crafts decadent sweets, like a soul-warming sticky toffee pudding to close out the meal. On weekends, a queue forms outside for the brunch service, com-

plete with exceptional homemade doughnuts.

Closed Monday and Tuesday. 96 Tecumseth St., 647-352-6000. $$VAOE

BODEGA HENRIETTE

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This jack-of-all-trades spot, tucked away on a residential stretch of Gerrard, is worth seeking out. It’s homey, casual and practical, with a section devoted to pantry essentials: butter, milk, produce, baked goodies, coffee and gorgeous bread from Petite Thuet. In fact, chef Adam Weisberg worked with Mark Thuet, and his French training shows. A perfectly roasted marrow bone comes with a layer of crunchy golden crumbs and a couple of pinches of tangy gremolata; lightly smoked chicken liver pâté is divine with crispy toasts and apple-pear compote. Succulent braised beef cheek comes on a velvety pool of celeriac purée, topped with a tempura scallion and sake-ginger gastrique; and a ramekin of buttery roasted root veggies is garnished with mild harissa yogurt and sweet-and-spicy pecans.

The beer list is impressive for a 25-seat local, with plenty of craft brews and interesting imports available on tap and by the bottle. 1801 Gerrard St. E., 416-546-6261. $$VOE

BOSK

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After a slow start that saw the Shangri-La’s flagship restaurant change chefs and directions, the

38 toronto life Eating and Drinking 2018

COPETÍN SS

In 2013, Claudio Aprile commanded a mini-empire, where he applied fine-dining rigour to burgers and brunch. This summer, he transformed his last room, on King East, into Copetín. On any given night, you can see the MasterChef Canada judge in the open kitchen, carefully placing a tea-smoked squab leg so its dainty claw reaches upward from a mound of plum-drenched farro. Given that Aprile is back at the stoves after years of sacrificing hands-on control to expansion, it’s surprising that so many of his dishes lack the punch and flavour precision he’s known for: those gnudi need salt and sharper bite from the tulle, which fails to melt into the dish, and lobster ceviche bathing in a bland Chartreuse tigre de leche could do with a serious hit of lime. An exquisite charred octopus tendril dotted with teeny jicama and grapefruit cubes and swiped with raw, parakeet-green coconut curry is a reminder of what Aprile can do: turn an ingredient that’s on every other menu in the city into something dazzlingly multicultural and alive. 107 King St. E., 416-603-8009. $$$ WVAO

DAILO

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At three years old, the College Street spot has stayed endlessly inventive in the face of stiff competition, churning out complex, flavour-packed plates of food. Nick Liu’s Asian brasserie is a masterclass in how a restaurant should operate: its gorgeous decor, resembling a chic, retro teahouse, is accented with teal banquettes and vintage, pagoda-patterned walls; antique, mis-

photograph by dave gillespie

montgomery's

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The Vancouver-based chain’s first Ontario location—a gargantuan, three-level, Warhol-decorated space in First Canadian Place—attracts lunchtime lineups of Bay Streeters. Executive chef Rob Feenie’s signature dishes are a few bucks more than the others and come highly recommended by clingy dress– and spiky heel–clad servers. His mascarpone- and butternut squash–stuffed ravioli in a truffle-heavy butter sauce is a signature dish for a reason, but, on one night, the fish tacos arrive on fridge-cold tortillas. The beef duo (tenderloin and short rib) is both flawlessly prepared and prettily presented. 77 Adelaide St. W., 647-748-2025. $$$$ WVNO

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matched dinnerware arrives with each course; and seamless dinner service all help it punch well above its weight. Small sharing plates, like crispy octopus tacos topped with braised pork belly and spicy sambal aïoli on jicama shells, typify the menu—the bites are intricate, accessible and balanced. Larger dishes, like the exceptional fried rice dusted with black truffle shavings and General Tso sweetbreads, are crafted with equal care. Imaginative cocktails and a fantastic wine list built by co-owner and prized sommelier Anton Potvin, are excellent complements to the umami-packed plates. 503 College St., 647341-8882. $$$VANO

DRAKE COMMISSARY S1

Despite the 20-foot ceilings and sprawling footprint, this high-end spot feels intimate, with tables set in little clusters around the all-white Aegean room. The food is advertised as sharable, and servings are actually big enough to do so. Classic horiatiki salad is topped with seared, sesamecrusted sheep’s milk feta, but the flavourless, mealy hothouse tomatoes underneath are unworthy of the sweet olive oil and puréed kalamata dressing. Whole sea bream is deliciously meaty, and brushed with just a bit of that good olive oil before being grilled and filleted. 128 Sterling Rd., 416-432-2922. $$ WVOE

DRAKE HOTEL

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The art hotel and party hub that’s defined Toronto’s hipster culture for the last 14 years still turns out very good food and drink. Splurge-level pub dishes are the best bets, like a decadent mound of fried nachos loaded with buttery lobster chunks. Lighter picks, like a bowl of torchietti tossed with top-shelf olive oil, garden-fresh tomatoes, baby basil shoots, garlic scapes and mild stracciatella di bufala cheese, also shine, but the sushi, to which there’s a devoted menu section, doesn’t. It’s only a notch above bento-box quality but double the price. Original cocktails, like a slow-sipping old-fashioned with brown butter– infused bourbon, cigar tincture and mole bitters, deserve a visit on their own. 1150 Queen St. W., 416531-5042. $$$ WVAOE

DRAKE ONE FIFTY

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It’s been four years since the Drake brought its particular brand of Queen West cool to the Financial District. Considered a gamble at the time, based on the sheer scale of the massive, intricately designed space, Drake One Fifty has been embraced by the Bay Street suits who pack the dining room and bar areas from lunch to late night for client meetings, after-work drinks and dinner with colleagues. As it’s been since opening, the menu is a hodgepodge of salads, pastas, pizzas, snacks and mains. However, unlike the consistently solid west-end Drake Hotel, much of Drake One Fifty’s overly complicated food is missing something: an albacore crudo is made bitter by slices of charred avocado, the signature burger comes with great fries but lacks seasoning, and a chicken schnitzel is neither crisp nor tender. Everything is beautifully plated, of course, and the room is still a great place to enjoy a good boozy cocktail. 150 York St., 416-363-6150. $$$ WOVE

FOXLEY

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While Ossington may have changed, the appeal of Tom Thai’s eclectic pan-Asian menu hasn’t. His ceviches—wild Nunavut Arctic char with green apple and ginger, or scallops with kumquat and grilled jalapeños—are rendered in bright flavours with invigorating acidic kicks. Like a good song that’s been way overplayed, kale salad elsewhere is something of a bore, but the version here— tender and yielding beneath a pecorino cap— can now be considered a classic. Closed Sunday.

207 Ossington Ave., 416-534-8520. $$ OV

THE GOOD SON

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This Queen West kitchen has survived nearly three years on a red-hot, fight-or-flight strip. Helming the kitchen, former Top Chef Canada contestant and George alum Vittorio Colacitti calls his culinary style “Toronto cuisine,” and, indeed, the menu is hard to pin down—jerk shrimp shares space with roasted-squash hummus and steak tartare. Still, the cooking is solid with some great flourishes. Sea bream ceviche with sweet, roasted pineapple and crispy yuca chips is an ideal starter, while a perfectly medium-rare cheeseburger is made even better by a side of crispy fries with malt aïoli. A fancified Hawaiian pizza crowned with smoked pork cheek, compressed pineapple and habaneros is short on toppings and missing the brightness of a tomato base—but ice cream sandwiches make up for it. 1096 Queen St. W., 416-551-0589. $$$ WE

LAKE INEZ SSS

A gastropub in Little India named for a Michigan lake, with a Byzantine mosaic of British artists Kate Bush and Virginia Woolf, serving a pan-Asian menu somehow feels very Toronto. Robbie Hojilla’s best dishes—a refreshing Thai winter vegetable salad with a zippy fish sauce and chili-based dressing, or his B.C. snapper curry with squash and savoy cabbage—are deliciously comforting. By comparison, braised mussels with crackling and smoked ham hock, and a beefy take on a bo ssam that’s let down by its ho-hum sides, lack the focus of the more nuanced dishes. A deep bench of Ontario craft beer makes for easy pairing. Chiffon cake with calamansi lime curd and shards of meringue and whipped cream is a perfectly eclectic finish.

1471 Gerrard St. E., 416-792-1590. $$$V

LEE SS1

Two dining areas create two distinctive vibes: the bright side is all exposed brick and beam, breezy and casual, while the dark side is the ghost of the former lounge, a dimly lit cave of banquettes and dark herringbone-patterned floors where bartenders sling $18 cocktails. But it’s not the only ghost that haunts the space. Phantoms linger in the form of a menu that changes little from year to year, let alone season to season. If you cadge a table, you can sup on Susur Lee’s greatest hits: his 19-ingredient signature Singaporean-style slaw remains worthy of the hype; heaps of herbs, julienne and pickled vegetables, noodles and seeds doused in Japanese plum dressing play their roles and, tossed tableside, coalesce into sweet, salty, savoury, crunchy theatre. The chocolate peanut butter bar is still kicking around the dessert card—though that’s not a bad thing. 601 King St. W., 416-504-7867. $$$$VAO

MOMOFUKU DAISHŌ

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The middle child of Momofuku’s three Toronto restaurants, Daish is also the most consistently rewarding. The menu has a few of David Chang’s greatest hits—buns, kimchee, ham and red-eye mayo—but it’s also rich with Ontario-raised meats and produce. The braised beef short rib is a lusty cut, served alongside two pucks of arancini made, ingeniously, from vinegary sushi rice. And a rulerlength slab of rainbow trout in a sambal emulsion is easily one of the top fish dishes of the summer. Service is exceedingly on point, the wine list places well-curated Ontario picks on the same pedestal as some of the world’s great grapes, and there remains no better group dining experience in town than the large-format bo ssam extravaganza, which showcases an entire sugar-cured pork butt with a cavalcade of Korean accoutrements. 190 University Ave., 3rd flr., 647-253-6227. $$$ WOAE

MOMOFUKU NOODLE BAR

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David Chang’s Noodle Bar might be famous for its steamed buns and bowls of excellent ramen, but the chilled spicy noodle dish deserves a shout-out, too, with its hunks of spicy pork sausage over a

40 toronto life Eating and Drinking 2018

tangle of noodles, crunchy cashews and spinach, all bound together by a funky black bean paste.

Pork buns remain the go-to starter, but the shrimp ones are joyful pockets slathered in spicy mayo, topped with pickled onion and crunchy iceberg.

Dessert is still a mostly DIY affair: there’s Cereal Milk soft-serve, and the Milk Bar kiosk is stocked with Christina Tosi’s signature truffles and slices of hilariously sweet Crack Pie. 190 University Ave., 647-253-8000. $$ WVA

MOMOFUKU SHŌTŌ

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On the third floor of the Momofuku complex awaits one of the city’s most deluxe dining experiences.

Twenty-two lucky diners sit at a black granite bar that surrounds a lab-like open kitchen where a group of cooks calmly prepares nightly tasting menus. On one occasion, a menu progresses from geoduck to sweetbreads to a pea custard laden with trout roe to a corn-stuffed raviolo topped with a crumbling of cotija cheese to a blueberry sorbet with mini-doughnuts made from taro. The chef’s tasting menu is $120 per person. 190 University Ave., 647-253-8000. $$$$ WVA

MR. FLAMINGO

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It’s easy to like Mr. Flamingo, the Dundas West restaurant opened by former Niagara Street Café chef Fan Zhang. The small faux-dive gives the illusion you’re in a hipster friend’s dining room, and the menu, a collection of on-trend sharing plates, has something for everyone. Bar snacks like harissaand lime-spiced fries go great with one of the excellent boozy cocktails, including a sour and sweet margarita, while the beef tartare—a well-seasoned number made better by the house egg bottarga— showcases the kitchen’s knack for balanced bites.

Larger plates are hit or miss: a made-to-order, stillwarm burrata suffers from a pesto-heavy ricotta filling, while a luxe, dry-aged rib-eye arrives at the table flambéed and cooked to a perfect mediumrare. The drink card is heavily utilized as the night rolls and the music gets louder. 1265 Dundas St. W., 647-351-1100. $$V

NOORDEN SSS

The owners of Quince recently closed shop and gave their white-linened Yonge and Eg room a cooler vibe and a gin list 60 bottles long. The menu focuses on Dutch staples with Indonesian flavours—a delicious hybrid born of the countries’ colonial history. War fries are the poutine of the Netherlands: drenched in sweet peanut sauce and dotted with mayo, scallions and bird’s-eye chilies, they’re guilt-inducingly excellent. Other plates— like a seared steelhead trout, and charred broccoli with preserved lemon and sambal metah, a tangy relish—are more refined and consistently capture the punchiness, depth and freshness that make Indo-fusion food so satisfying. Little touches, like house-made tonic, imported caramel sauce for the olie bollen (apple-currant fritters) and servers who deliver culinary history without being obnoxious, make guests feel like they’re still in fine-dining hands. 2110 Yonge St., 416-488-2110. $$VAO

NOTA BENE

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This Queen West go-to for pre-ballet dinners and Wagyu steak lunches got a subtle but vital refresh last year. A light installation casts a cool, blue glow on couples in suits and statement jewellery (plus the odd group of high-rolling millennials in designer sneakers). David Lee’s retooled menu is still crowd-pleasing, but more 2017: a gin list rivals the wine offerings, sashimi plates have joined charcuterie boards, and vegetables share equal billing with foie gras. A round of eight-hour-roasted celeriac, tinged with Thai basil and ringed with crema and stewed rhubarb, is just as satisfying as the crispy duck salad with its tangles of fish sauce– soaked green papaya, cucumber and chilies. Little touches, like a sea buckthorn coulis to cut a dark chocolate ganache, elevate dishes to special-

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occasion status. Ditto the pro servers armed with crumb brushes and the perfect wine pairings.

180 Queen St. W., 416-977-6400. $$$$ WVA

RASA

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The owners of Food Dudes catering also run this Harbord Village room that resembles a Civil War– era cabin. The menu lists 15 sharing plates and includes light and fresh yuzu albacore tuna cubes on squid ink brioche, and hearty KoreanUkrainian kalbi steak cabbage rolls. The fish board, dotted with candied-salmon jerky and slices of supple cold-smoked salmon, is a great opener. Roast Ontario lamb brings a fan of scarlet slices coated in demi-glace, sided by plump celeriac-filled pierogies and baby carrots. Desserts, like a passion fruit–infused chocolate ganache with toasted marshmallow, are worth the splurge. 196 Robert St., 647-350-8221. $$$ WVAOE

RICKSHAW BAR

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Noureen Feerasta’s menu skips merrily across Southeast Asia like a hungry gap year backpacker.

Scallop ceviche, served in a bowl inside of a bowl of shaved ice, gets acidic emphasis from a zesty leche de tigre and texture from thin taro chips. Mung bean chaat salad, crunch on crunch, with sweetly savoury tamarind and ginger, would make any bhel puri wala proud. Spicy fried chicken thighs have their deep, delicious gochujang and Kashmiri chili flavour offset by cooling jicama slices. When a plate of masala branzino, hampered by gummy mashed rice, goes untouched, efficient staff notice and the kitchen generously sends out a dynamite Ismaili beef curry as a delicious, if unnecessary, apology. The subcontinental classic, falooda—rose water and vanilla bean gelato—receives added richness from the presence of malai, an intense clotted cream. 685 Queen St. W.,647-352-1227. $$$V

ITALIAN ANNETTE FOOD MARKET

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This cozy spot in the Junction glows from its woodburning oven, wafts garlic goodness and buzzes with freshly mortgaged couples and soccer parents.

The sharing menu is highly affordable. And if you stick to the house-made pastas, like al dente porcini mushroom–pear ravioli in lickably rich sage brown butter, or the pizzas, whose blackened crusts buckle under the weight of luxe toppings like sausage, sopressata, ’nduja and fior di latte (all on one gluttonous pie), you’ll likely leave happy and full.

240 Annette St., no phone. $$V

Buca. Split the gran fritto misto, a two-tiered snack tray piled with lightly battered and deepfried baby artichokes, rock shrimp, tiny smelt and twists of pigskin. Each bite is perfectly crisp and flecked with fennel-flavoured salt or chili. For dessert, there’s a selection of old-fashioned Italian pastries: ricotta-stuffed cannoli, lace-patterned pizzelle and sugar-dusted apple butter bombolone.

75 Portland St., 416-599-2822. $$ WVNOE

BRICCO KITCHEN AND WINE BAR SSS

With its mid-century Scandinavian furniture and whitewashed brick, this lovely 45-seater in the Junction is one of the prettiest spots in the ’hood.

The polished-but-unfussy aesthetic applies to the cooking as well, with nuovo rustico dishes from the Piedmont region. The antipasto board departs from the typical spread to include chickpea fritters, blue cheese–stuffed dates, lonza- and prosciuttowrapped bread sticks. Lemon rind balances creamy raw Arctic char, and large, fluffy gnocchi lend starchy support to rich braised rabbit. Wine rotates every two weeks, and the trios of two-ounce pours are a great way to sample the many organic, small-producer options on offer. Closed Tuesday.

3047 Dundas St. W., 416-901-4536. $$$VA

BUCA SSS

Devotees of regional Italian dishes made from animals and their constituent parts must make the pilgrimage to the place where chef Rob Gentile first began his journey to culinary beatification.

Seated in the post-industrial space with soaring ceilings bounded by yellow brick and bathed in sunlight, you will taste the occasional miracle.

Pizza bianca, hot from the oven and drizzled with oil and sprinkled with rosemary, warms the soul, but it’s overshadowed by a delicate horse tartare with capers, 40-year-old vinegar and 40-day-old ricotta that expertly melds brine, funk, salt and acidity. Lamb brains alla saltimbocca—don’t shudder, just eat it—is bar food for the adventurous: a two-bite nugget of creaminess enveloped in a crispy pancetta and sage pocket. Every item on the menu has an appealing analog on the expertly curated wine list, from which servers thoughtfully recommend pairings. Even dessert offers one final communion with nose-to-tail dining: pork blood adds body and a faint metallic zing to the ganache-like lid on a chocolate and almond torta caprese topped with tonka bean gelato. 604 King St. W., 416-865-1600. $$$ OV

BUCA YORKVILLE

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Chef Roberto Marotta’s Sicilian-inspired dishes offer a level of sophistication that puts this new St. Lawrence spot above many of the city’s trattorias. Acciughe—punchy white anchovies and roasted red peppers on crunchy herb butter–soaked crostini—are a perfect two-bite snack, and the sourdough starter makes an exceptionally puffy pizza crust. It’s a welcome change from the Neapolitan tyranny. 243 King St. E., 647-347-8930. $$VAO

At Rob Gentile’s Yorkville restaurant, the focus is on top-notch fish and seafood. The “salami,” made with octopus, scallop, swordfish or tuna blood combined with pork fat, are like fine headcheese, though nowhere near as popular as deep-fried exotica like Atlantic cod tongue or puffed dumplings dyed a deep black with squid ink. The day’s catch, cooked in a carapace of salt, is cracked tableside and presented like a devotional offering.

Everything is perfect, including the zeppole—an Italian doughnut—dusted with confectioner’s sugar and stuffed with pistachio-mascarpone cream. 53 Scollard St., 416-962-2822. $$$$ WVE

ARIA RISTORANTE

CAMPAGNOLO SS1

ARDO SSS

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The room is a showstopper, with enormous starburst light fixtures and floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking Maple Leaf Square. Translucent pink sheets of tender veal dressed with tuna, anchovy and caper sauce make for the city’s best vitello tonnato. Desserts are lusciously traditional (a pistachio tart with macerated strawberries) or brilliantly unconventional (a creamy popcorn, pine nut and sweet corn ice cream bar). Closed Sunday.

25 York St., 416-363-2742. $$$$ WVAO

BAR BUCA SSS

A few steps from Buca proper, chef Rob Gentile’s King West osteria, is his relaxed and casual Bar

Most of the menu at this Italian mainstay changes daily, but the heaping plate of burrata is a yearround crowd-pleaser—its oven-toasted grapes providing a sweet-and-sour counterpoint to the creaminess of the cheese. Seared albacore tuna served with cherry tomatoes and pickled shishito peppers looks lovely when served, and the flavours are spot-on. Seafood tagliolini is prepared just as it should be: simple, elegant and full of oceanic flavour. 832 Dundas St. W., 416-364-4785. $$$$ WVO

CAMPO

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Too many Italian kitchens in this city seem to believe that any spaghetti with meat sauce can be

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passed off as bolognese, but at this Baby Point spot, it’s done right. Ground beef and pork are cooked for 48 hours with tomatoes and mirepoix to create a deep-flavoured sauce that goes over excellent pasta. The kitchen also scores points for its handmade gnocchi, smaller than usual but the perfect combination of dense and airy, coated in a delicious tomato and ’nduja sauce. The wine list is small but features options from some lessheralded regions of Italy and Spain, and the digestif selection includes some rare amari and vermouth. Closed Monday and Tuesday.

244 Jane St., 647-346-2267. $$$VE

CAPRA’S KITCHEN SS1

With 50-plus items on the menu, choosing what to order is almost as difficult as securing a table at this bustling trattoria. Even though this is Massimo Capra’s seventh restaurant, the Chopped: Canada judge can still be spotted in the kitchen and on the floor, taking selfies with fans and signing copies of his cookbook. Capra borrows flavours from the Middle East here and there, but mostly stays true to his roots. Pizza parmigiana, with folds of salty-sweet prosciutto and a thin, blistered crust, is everything a pizza should be; and a twisted pile of al dente spaghettini is loaded with shredded crabmeat and pearls of salmon roe.

Affogato al caffè—vanilla ice cream with a shot of strong espresso—is a light and energizing ending.

1834 Lakeshore Rd. W., Mississauga, 905-916-1834. $$$ WVAOE

CELLAR DOOR SS1

New Toronto residents have a gem in this unfussy three-year-old trattoria. Service, which was wellmeaning but ultimately unpolished upon opening, is now tight and efficient, complete with proper pronunciation of the dishes and extensive knowledge about the wine list. As far as salumi plates go, Cellar Door’s is closer to what nonna lays out on Sundays than the finely curated charcuterie showcases closer to the core, but it will do just fine.

Handmade pasta is superb; the tagliatelle in a simple olive oil prep of zucchini, onion and lemon preserve is a contender for pasta dish of the summer.

Pizza purists would say there’s far too much mozzarella on these pies to call them truly Neapolitan— and they would be right—but they’d also be missing out on all the gooey cheese glory. 3003 Lake Shore Blvd. W., 416-253-0303. $$$ WV

ENOTECA SOCIALE SSS1

Its chefs may change, but at its core, the restaurant does not. Between the faux-wood panelling, the genuine warmth shown toward returning patrons by professional staff and the bar’s remarkable selection of unique, quaffable Italian wines, this cozy spot remains Toronto’s most authentic reproduction of dining by the Tiber. Chef Kyle Rindinella captures the soul of the boot in his gnocchi, a pillowy foundation for tart tomato, chili s and a puddle of smoked ricotta that reads achingly simple, but is soul-food satisfying. Conversation pauses for chocolate terrine, a trinity of dense chocolate mousse, candied hazelnuts and spritely olive oil, and resumes only after every last bit has been scraped from the plate and licked off the spoon.

1288 Dundas St. W., 416-534-1200. $$$$VO

F’AMELIA SSSS

The kitchen of this Cabbagetown favourite continues to wow with its originality while maintaining the Italian spirit of simplicity. Appetizers are terrific: smoky grilled radicchio livens up an already tasty fig salad, and battered and grilled calamari comes brushed with pesto. Chef Mario Macchione offers a unique take on carbonara—possibly the most sacred dish in the Italian canon—using handmade tagliatelle in place of spaghetti, and adding crisped prosciutto, sautéed red onion and spinach.

Creamy eggplant is the star of a spicy lamb sausage pizza. In warmer weather, the patio doubles the

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size of the restaurant and is the ideal spot to drink a glass of wine and take in the neighbourhood sights.

12 Amelia St., 416-323-0666. $$$ WVOE

FIGO

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Standout service and delicious dishes at Charles Khabouth and Hanif Harji’s Italian venture make its clubby beats and soda-heavy drinks forgivable. The room is quite lovely, too, with a ceiling fresco of roses and chapel window–shaped wine cabinets. Chef Anna Chen, who’s cooked at Buca Yorkville, has put together a crowdpleasing but sophisticated menu. Fried zucchini, drizzled with lemon crema fresca and honey, tastes like the best kind of tempura, and housemade tagliatelle alle vongole is bright with dill and chilies. The wine list has plenty of offerings at all price points. 295 Adelaide St. W., 647748-3446. $$$ WVOE

FRANCOBOLLO

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At only four years old, Francobollo has already established a firm foothold in chi-chi Bedford Park. Calm and polished, it’s the type of place where phones are put away. The menu is full of surprises, including the arugula salad tossed with asiago, thinly sliced bresaola and grilled peaches in a lemon vinaigrette. Deliciously dense housemade ravioli are stuffed with pumpkin and ground veal, then tossed in a pistachio and sage sauce. At $38, the beef tenderloin is a bargain, its side of bone marrow a delightful companion.

1959 Avenue Rd., 416-481-3888. $$$$VAO

GUSTO 101

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King West creatives flock here after work, making for an attractive—but rather loud—room. Almost every table orders the excellent kale salad. It’s soft but not soggy, with a lemon vinaigrette, crunchy pine nuts and thinly sliced pecorino and parmesan. Rigatoni with guanciale is more of a fancy Hamburger Helper, but the flavour is bright and punchy. Roman-style pizzas have a fine crust and a proper homemade red sauce, but the meatball and provolone number verges on the greasy side.

Good house wines on tap go for a dollar an ounce.

101 Portland St., 416-504-9669. $$$ WVNOE

JAMIE’S ITALIAN

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Jamie Oliver’s first kitchen in North America is far superior to the average shopping mall pasta joint (it’s located in Yorkdale), in large part because he partnered with the King Street Food Co., which runs the upscale Bucas. In the barnboard-andsubway-tile dining room (amazingly intimate given its 280-seat size), an appetizer of fennel-pork meatballs in an incendiary arrabbiata sauce would do any nonna proud, and pastas, house-made daily in the open kitchen, are properly al dente—and suitably comforting after hard hours of shoe shopping.

3401 Dufferin St., Unit 20, 416-238-7450; 100 City Centre Dr., Unit 2-454, 905-766-9090. $$$ WVO

LA PALMA

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A hostess in Umbro shorts and Seinfeld shoes may break it to you gently that the Wednesday wait time isn’t too bad—maybe an hour, hour and a half?

Such is the demand for a table at the breezy Trinity Bellwoods spot from the owners of nearby Campagnolo. The fuss is due, in part, to a menu that can easily satisfy a family of 20 celebrating nonna’s birthday, a quad of business-casual hockey poolers toasting with craft brews or a couple nursing negronis. The price point helps, too: for under $140, two people can happily drink and sample half the menu, including crusty sourdough piled with rich chicken liver mousse flecked with Maldon salt and caramelized pearl onions, a béchamel- and bolognese-bound 100-layer lasagna, and a perfect dome of fluffy cafè corretto mousse drenched in gold-dusted dark chocolate sauce. None of it goes with the Venice-Beach-by-way-of-Instagram room, all millennial pink and mint-green splotches—but when a frothy Montenegro-lime cocktail pairs so sweetly with passion fruit–vanilla millefoglie, who cares? 849 Dundas St. W., 416-368-4567. $$$ WVN

LIL’ BACI

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The menu and decor at this Leslieville favourite haven’t changed much since it opened in 2007: it’s still charmingly rustic, with plenty of original bricks, brass and stained glass. An early seating here feels a bit like a daycare with rug rats belting around the tables while exhausted parents tuck into their pastas and beautifully blistered pizzas, but the mood shifts as the night goes on with bottles of wine replacing those of milk. Pizzas thrown from 24-hour fermented dough are bubbled and charred in all the right places, many topped with salumi, and adorably named Baci Balls make use of

Top Five

Vegan Restaurants So tasty, even carnivores will bite

Awai Chef Nathan Isberg is back, this time making plant-based dishes that even the most hard-core meatheads will succumb to: ravioli stuffed with braised artichokes, and woodfired flatbreads loaded with cherry tomatoes.

2277 Bloor St. W., 647-643-3132.

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Planta It’s worth a visit to this collaboration between chef David Lee and the group behind swanky spots like the Chase just for the burger. While no carnivore would mistake it for the real thing, it’s deeply satisfying. 1221 Bay St., 647-348-7000.

44 toronto life Eating and Drinking 2018

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Doug McNish’s Public Kitchen Chef Doug McNish has invented a revelatory vegan Benny: it’s covered in a zippy “hollandaise” sauce with smoked tofu, a cornmeal-crusted tomato and sautéed spinach on an English muffin. 561 Marlee Ave., 647-341-1736.

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Kupfert and Kim The animal-free miyeok guk at Kupfert and Kim is an outstanding take on the Korean soup. It’s packed with brown rice, tofu, dulse, house-made kimchee and a laundry list of fresh vegetables.

140 Spadina Ave., 416-504 2206.

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Graceful Vegetarian Though the menu here may seem overwhelming, home in on the classic dim sum, including steamed barbecue “pork” buns, and dumplings full of shockingly fresh greens. 8-7131 Kennedy Rd., 905-479-8381.

photograph by dave gillespie

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the entire barnyard: they come in lamb, spicy pork, pork and beef, and—wait for it—turducken varieties. 892 Queen St. E., 416-465-4888. $$$VOE

LOCAL KITCHEN ANd WINE BAR

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With its hodgepodge decorative elements, an eccentrically annotated wine list and casual but oh-so-competent staff, this diminutive Italian spot serving locally grown fare remains one of Roncey’s most charming locales. The kitchen takes plenty of chances, with multiple specials on offer every night, and this willingness to experiment occasionally leads to dishes that don’t quite hold together. Mussels come in a terrific, light cream sauce, but the decisions to place the bread beneath the mussels and to pair the shellfish with similarly textured porcini mushrooms and peaches, are odd ones. Zucchini flower fritters stuffed with ricotta are battered to perfection, and a breaded pork chop with tomato sauce is a fine throwback, but culurgiones—a Sardinian stuffed pasta, filled here with ’nduja and ricotta—offer a confusing flavour profile. Apple fritters are a wonderfully decadent dessert. 1710 Queen St. W., 416-534-6700. $$$VAO

L’UNITÀ

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With its brick walls, upholstered banquettes and single flat-screen airing clips of Italian rom-coms, L’Unità strikes a nice balance between Yorkville dining and business casual. Here, recognizably rustic dishes are executed with grace and polish.

Apples baked into crusty bread, or cocktail glasses rinsed with Chartreuse, show an attention to detail that’s indicative of thoughtfulness, not showmanship. And typically heavy Italian mains are lightened up: fried arancini are filled with butternut squash, and a blistery pizza bianca is topped with mushrooms, truffle crema, roasted garlic and fior di latte. 134 Avenue Rd., 416-964-8686. $$$VA

MERCATTO

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At this casual Financial District spot, perfectly fried artichokes are served with roasted red peppers and creamy pesto, creating a perfect balance of sweet, salty and sour flavours. Light and loose meatballs come in a terrific caper-heavy tomato sauce; complimentary bread is ideal for sopping up the juices. Seafood risotto, while full of the ocean’s bounty, could be creamier and a lot less garlicky. Don’t skip the cannoli, packed with crunchy pistachios and orange zest. Excellent wine options from up and down the boot are available. 15 Toronto St., 416-366-4567. $$$ WVAO

MISTURA

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At its best, this Yorkville mainstay elegantly recalls Toronto’s ’90s-era fine-dining glory days. Leatherupholstered chairs, sculpted glass accents and cerulean canvases immerse the dining room in subdued, subaquatic tranquility. After a final swim in an ocean of oil and vinegar dotted with pine nuts and raisins, unctuous sardine fillets are a tart, sweet and surprisingly rich appetizer. The restaurant’s long-venerated beet risotto—cooked so perfectly that individual grains of rice glide in an earthy, parm-saturated pool of magenta lava— remains timeless. In an age of craft beer–swilling hipsters, attentive servers who guide patrons through an expansive wine list still have their place. The same cannot be said for the chocolate olive oil cake, a dry anachronism unsuccessfully disguised in a boozy-sweet cloak of brandied figs and honey ganache. 265 Davenport Rd., 416-515-0009. $$$$ WVA

ORETTA SS

With its soaring arched ceilings and massive bar, this new Italian spot is an immediate contender for the city’s most impressive dining space. Artdeco grandeur aside, the club-jam soundtrack and female wait staff in snug-fitting shirts remind us that this is still very much a King West produc-

tion. The menu includes some originality (mortadella on pizza!), but it often looks better on paper.

The mixed fried fish app is pale, not golden; and while the accompanying beet chips are a unique addition, most of them are bashed to bits. Main courses are good but unbalanced: rich and perfectly seared Arctic char is paired with also-rich veggies in tomato broth, while the roasted cauliflower and potatoes accompanying braised lamb shoulder make for a plate that’s a little too, well, brown. 633 King St. W., 416-944-1932. $$$ WVOAE

ORO SS1

This downtown mainstay offers an unpretentious, intimate pizza-free experience that’s something of a rarity in the city’s never-ending trattoria craze. At just $42, the mixed seafood platter is one of the best deals in town: plump and tender shrimp and scallops and herbed sea bass sit on a bed of creamy crab risotto. The list of wines includes bottles from almost every Italian region—and good prices, too.

Closed Sunday. 45 Elm St., 416-597-0155. $$$$VA

OVEST SS

Friendly service welcomes you at Ovest, as disorganized but cheerful staff scurry around the cavernous space, chatting to each other in Italian; guests try to flag them down. The two-year-old restaurant has a trattoria’s casual and boisterous vibe down pat. A starter of grilled calamari and shrimp, piled high, is fresh and sweet, with the flavours nicely offset by the char of the grill. Another app of fried artichokes is atypically paired with a citrus-and-mint yogurt, paying homage to the dish’s Levantine origins. There’s an endless list of starches to choose from, and the menu makes a fuss over the daily risotto. A barolo and short rib version impresses—even if the wine comes through more in the rice’s deep purple colour than in the flavour. The Italian-heavy wine list has a varied selection of inexpensive bottles that don’t vary beyond LCBO standards, but if you’re willing to dig deep, there are some splurge-worthy supertuscans. 788 King St. W., 416-214-6161. $$$VAO

PIANO PIANO

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When Victor Barry opened a casual pizza place where Splendido used to be, his fan base was aghast. The room now features a Tim-Burtonmeets-Nancy-Reagan ’80s vibe of graphic white bistro chairs against black floors and heavy floral wallpaper. But the best part is the food. Thick, bone-in veal chops and soft and messy pizzas loaded with toppings like dandelion and bubbling scamorza are just some of the standout items. The star, however, is the caesar salad: grilled sections of radicchio and romaine, crispy-fatty strips of roast pork belly, buttery croutons, fresh white anchovy, a slick of garlicky dressing and a liberal dusting of parm. It’s crunchy, smoky, salty and sweet—more of a marvel than any molecular gastronomy trick.

88 Harbord St., 416-929-7788. $$$ WVA

PIZZERIA LIBRETTO SS1

Still loud, still crowded and still serving pizzas that sag in the middle, Rocco Agostino’s original Ossington pizzeria remains as good a place as any to get your Neapolitan pie fix. The pizzas sag because they’re huge and generously topped; one, with cremini mushrooms, buffalo mozzarella, gorgonzola, roasted garlic and pecorino, is as orgiastic as a Berlusconi bunga bunga. 221 Ossington Ave., 416-532-8000; plus four other GTA locations. $$V

QUEEN MARGHERITA PIZZA SS

On the roster of Neapolitan pizzerias, Queen Margherita is slightly better than Terroni and slightly inferior to Libretto. It’s also a friendly, convivial place, with a smart three-course prix fixe that suits the crowd of families and birthday partiers. The popular diavola pizza, blasted in a stone oven, has hot peppers, roasted black olives and

46 toronto life Eating and Drinking 2018

spicy sopressata on a thin, nicely blistered crust.

1402 Queen St. E., 416-466-6555; plus two other GTA locations. $$ WV

REVERE SS1

With a menu courtesy of James Harrison (F’Amelia, Splendido), another pearl has been added to the ever-growing string of gems on the eastern stretch of Greektown. To start, goujons— fancy French speak for fish fingers—brings strips of fresh Arctic char encased in crispy tempura with sauce gribiche, a delicious tartar sauce enhanced with chopped egg. House-made cavatelli in a light cream sauce with wild mushrooms, madeira wine and parm is perfectly al dente. Wonderfully gamey roasted lamb shoulder is balanced by the flavours of red pepper, zucchini and eggplant. Pastry chef Rebecca Tresham is responsible for the desserts, all of which are worth the extra calories—especially apple bread pudding that’s deep-fried to crunchy perfection, then topped with gelato and caramel.

804 Danforth Ave., 416-546-6665. $$$VAO

SIdECAR SS1

When a restaurant is hitting its marks—as this Little Italy mainstay does with its service, ambiance and simple-but-elegant dishes—a major mistake, such as cooking an otherwise beautifully flavoured steak a medium-well instead of the requested medium-rare, is all the more glaring. The kitchen, though, generally does well. Complimentary hummus served with warm bread is a welcome kick-off to the meal. Mushroom risotto is rich, cheesy and deeply flavoured. The cleverly named and unique cocktails of the past are missed, though one can’t complain too much about the very fine bottled options coming from the Toronto Temperance Society, and the back patio is one of the city’s best.

577 College St., 416-536-7000. $$VAO

SUGO

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Contemporary restaurant culture winks at you while explaining some cheeky update on a oncederided cuisine, but Sugo is thankfully earnest in both its environment and traditional ItalianAmerican cooking. Here are the gingham tablecloths and red-checkered linoleum floors, the small dining room lined in the kind of dark wood panelling you’d find in a Corso Italia basement. Then there’s the food, which, like Sugo’s straightforward name suggests, is sauced in little more than freshly simmered tomatoes, onions, oregano and garlic— sometimes cream. Plump house-made gnocchi come drowned in the stuff and topped with a spoonful of whipped ricotta. The veal sandwich, is stuffed with plenty of melted cheese, and a meatball the size of a navel orange is meltingly tender.

1281 Bloor St. W., 416-535-1717. $$V

TERRONI SSS

The flagship Terroni on Queen West still runs like a well-oiled machine: the atmosphere is relaxed, the service is friendly and competent, and the kitchen consistently produces well-executed southern Italian plates—a significant accomplishment given the massive menu. An essentially flawless meal begins with the Farinata con le Barbabietole, a hearty salad of roasted beets, heirloom carrots, arugula, watercress and sunflower sprouts, served on a crisp chickpea pancake and topped with an elevating sprinkle of crushed pistachio and mint.

Focu Meu, a pizza of tomato sauce, mozzarella, panfried eggplant, smoky ’nduja and a layer of shaved parmigiano, is a standout pie. 720 Queen St. W., 416-504-1992. $$$VO

TOCA SSS1

At the Ritz-Carlton’s handsome restaurant, a pair of barely cooked shrimp perch on soft curds of burrata held in place by the natural bowl of an artichoke heart. Bitter, bright-red radicchio leaves are tamed by mellow sautéed mushrooms in a warming autumn salad. Sliced and arrayed

STEAK FRITES certified angus beef ÂŽ sirloin, kale salad, horseradish cream, sea salted fries

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JAPANESE DON DON IZAKAYA SS

hot SPot

Twenty-somethings chatter and shout— energized, no doubt, by the carefree atmosphere and the long list of sakes, shochu and Japanese beers. The massive menu is replete with salty, thirst-inducing snacks. The sea foie gras, made with monkfish liver and topped with green onions and ponzu, is luscious and smooth. Thick slices of lightly hay-smoked salmon sashimi is another winner. 130 Dundas St. W., 416-492-5292. $$V

GUU SS1

The exuberant staff (and the sake Jell-O shots) are indications of the emphasis this Parkdale izakaya puts on fun. The noise level can approach punishing, but that doesn’t impair the quality of the cooking. Cured mackerel, dense and vibrant, receives a brief, caramelizing blowtorching before it’s set on cubes of pressed sushi rice. In an updated twist on the classic sushi boat, a miniature staircase staggers fresh selections of sashimi; marinated octopus in a distinctly gelatinous dressing, with a side of nori for wrapping, packs a robust and delicious wasabi bite. Okonomiyaki, a crisp seafood pancake with Worcestershire sauce, mayo and great heaps of billowing bonito flakes filling in for maple syrup, should probably be the next fried chicken. 1314 Queen St. W., 647-351-1314. $$V

HANMOTO SSS

Leemo Han’s secretive Dundas West izakaya bears the junk-shop look he and brother Leeto established at snack-food spot Oddseoul. As at the best izakayas, the chef maintains a healthy disregard for dieters. Prime example: a sandwich of roasted, super-fatty pork belly, coated in soy remoulade, barely contained by a coco bun. Dyno Wings are stuffed with spicy pork and rice, deep-fried and served in a takeout box. Even more impressive are a tartare of fantastically fresh hamachi and the nasudengaku—Japanese eggplant charred until creamy, the length of it covered in finely shredded deep-fried beets. 2 Lakeview Ave., no phone. $$ N

Chef Jesse Vallins’s burger—a patty of strip loin topped with house-made cheese, garlic mayo and dill relish—is one of the city’s best (page 22).

around the bone, the supremely tender, slightly funky steak Fiorentina is one of the city’s great cuts of meat. Airy and smooth Roman gnocchi, made with semolina instead of potato, make a fine accompaniment, as does a bowl of braised escarole studded with raisins and hazelnuts. 181 Wellington St. W., 416-572-8008. $$$$ WVAE

TUTTI MATTI

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Don’t let the dated decor at this Entertainment District trattoria dissuade you—so long as you’re hungry, there’s no better place to be. Servers are simultaneously efficient and laid-back, a combination that suggests an all-too-rare sense of genuine hospitality. The menu features humble Tuscan staples—lots of boar and plenty of beans—but the dishes arrive to the table exquisitely conceived and expertly cooked. While the short ribs are popular, the rabbit entrée is superlative, its meat cooked sousvide before being dusted with flour, deep-fried and plated with grilled greens and lemony fingerlings.

It’s a sly showstopper, memorable precisely for its brazen simplicity and masterful execution. Which, come to think of it, also describes Tutti Matti to a T. 364 Adelaide St. W., 416-597-8839. $$$VA

UFFICIO

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Under new head chef Ivana Raca, this hip pescetarian spot has pushed into the upper echelon of the

city’s Italian restaurants. The seafood quality is well above the city standard. Fried shrimp in a squid ink batter are perfectly tender, and octopus, grilled and laid upon a bed of rich-but-tangy cannellini bean stew and charred escarole, melts in your mouth.

The must-order dish, though, is a king crab spaghetti: its squid ink pasta has the density of udon, while a simple butter sauce brings forward the crustacean’s sweetness. It’s a bit of a raucous room, so prepare to use your outdoor voice with your dinner mates. 1214 Dundas St. W., 416-535-8888. $$$ WVAE

ZUCCA TRATTORIA SSS

For two decades, this upscale Midtown haunt has been the benchmark for exceptional Italian food.

Chef Andrew Milne-Allan was doing local, seasonal cuisine long before it was trendy, and the restaurant’s professional servers could teach the city’s cool kids a thing or two. Made in-house every morning, the pastas are an obvious strength, like the hand-cut red wine tagliatelle in a duck-andrabbit ragoût—a beautifully rustic dish. Complex plates, like the seared muscovy duck breast with roasted figs, bitter treviso and a lemon risotto, showcase the kitchen’s deftness at balancing flavours. A respectable wine list is broken down by region of Italy, and classic desserts like panna cotta and affogato are perfect endnotes to a romantic meal. 2150 Yonge St., 416-488-5774. $$$$VA

48 toronto life Eating and Drinking 2018

HOKKAIDO RAMEN SANTOUKA

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The influx of new ramen bars in Toronto has spawned a class of nerds who furiously debate the relative merits of the broth, noodles, roast pork and toppings at each establishment. This Japanese import nails all the components, especially in the signature toroniku ramen, which brings slabs of tender pork belly beside a bowl of dark, salty broth. The tsukemen comes crammed with softcooked egg, mushrooms and more delicious pork, with a plate of cold, thick noodles for dipping.

91 Dundas St. E., 647-748-1717. $$

IMANISHI SSS

The city’s best new izakaya is Imanishi, run by a former Guu and Kingyo cook. It began as an occasional pop-up and now has a permanent home in a former Portuguese sports bar. The standout dishes include sticky wings coated with toasted sesame seeds, fritters made of whole corn kernels, barely seared beef tataki, and a meaty squid tentacle grilled and slathered in soy sauce and butter, served with kewpie mayo. Though there’s Sapporo by the litre, the atmosphere is chill. Maybe it’s the Japanese soul records; maybe it’s the serious eating.

1330 Dundas St. W., 416-706-4225. $$V

JABISTRO

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JaBistro’s long, windowless room is a playground for young urbanites with deep pockets looking to satisfy their cravings for quality sushi—especially of the aburi (blowtorched) variety—and sashimi.

The pricey sashimi platter features the day’s premium surf and turf, which may include tuna belly, snow crab or Wagyu beef. It’s easy to appreciate the quality of each delicious, unfussy and pristine

photograph by dave gillespie

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1554 Dundas Street West Toronto, ON M6K 1T8

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morsel. Those willing to go rogue should consider the not-always-available grilled fish collar; it’s sweet, supple and enhanced with house-made soy sauce. Desserts are delightful, with the angel pudding—a wobblier version of a custard flan swimming in a loose caramel sauce—leading the pack. 222 Richmond St. W., 647-748-0222. $$$VAO

JAPANGO

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This tiny wood-lined sushi restaurant has the cozy warmth of a back-alley joint in Shibuya. Fresh tuna and ripe avocado tartare macerates in a bright yuzu dressing made rich with garlicky oil. Agedashi tofu, crisp and soft, rests in a tentsuyu broth that tastes subtly of bonito and kelp. Panko-crusted fried oysters are minuscule, however, and the accompanying tonkatsu sauce is heavy. “Deluxe” sashimi lives up to its billing: lightly torched sea bream, delicately scored and seared curls of salmon, and albacore glazed lightly with garlic and sesame, as well as unadorned sea bream, tuna and flounder. 122 Elizabeth St., 416-599-5557. $$$V

JAPANHAKO SS

This is Japanese comfort food—and lots of it—in Koreatown. There’s sushi and sashimi, of course, but also udon, won ton “nachos” and the heart of the restaurant: yakitori. Chicken heart, to be exact, skewered and grilled like so many of the bird’s often-overlooked other parts. Pork and beef also get the charcoal treatment, along with vegetables, shrimp and (why not?) cheese sausage. Pressed sushi squares, some of them blowtorched, are topped with things like yam with olive oil, or mozzarella and garlic butter. Even the more traditional rolls tend to favour excess, combining torched salmon with spicy crabmeat, and tempura shrimp with avocado and fried potato shreds. Beer is inexpensive, while the sake list provides opportunities to splurge. 712 Bloor St. W., 416-537-9595. $$V

KAISEKI YU-ZEN HASHIMOTO

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The wife and son of chef Masaki Hashimoto meet you at the entrance and escort you to a private, screened room. Japanese chanting and drum music plays. Servers bow as they enter and exit. The idea is to transport you to Kyoto, where Masaki trained in kaiseki. On one visit, he had salt-cured uni (which he’d flown in, fresh, from Hokkaido) shaved into thin slivers on an appetizer of rice. He formed jellies out of seaweed and baked a persimmon stuffed with miso, pine nuts and more persimmon.

At the end of dinner, a kimono-clad server ushers you into another tatami-matted room for a truncated version of a tea ceremony. For a moment, you can almost forget you’re only feet from the DVP. Japanese Canadian Cultural Centre, 6 Garamond Ct., east entrance, 416-444-7100. $$$$ WV

KATSURA

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While the rest of the city obsesses over ramen noodles, this North York stalwart continues to turn out wonderful teppanyaki from a moody, shoji-lined set of rooms in the Westin Prince Hotel. In classic teppanyaki fashion, Wagyu gets top billing with Triple-A Angus, though a sharp rectangle of sushi-grade tuna is also a smart selection. Vegetables are seared, sliced and set alight; proteins are quickly dispatched and served with two sauces: a bright soy-ginger and a gentle mustard. 900 York Mills Rd., 647-259-3230. $$$$ WV

KINGYO

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Kingyo is surprisingly sophisticated for a restaurant with light-blasting pachinko machines on the wall and Doraemon cartoons behind the bar.

Watermelon kimchee, spicy and barely sweet, is as fun and surprising—and beer friendly—as the whole place. Deep-fried brussels sprouts with smoky bacon slices are rich with umami, and soft tofu cubes come topped with an almond-packed chili sauce. Slices of hamachi carpaccio benefit

from the accompanying avocado and crispy lotus root. And who needs dessert when frozen grapes on a stick come with the bill? 51B Winchester St., 647-748-2121. $$$VA

KINKA IZAKAYA

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Everything about this rowdy watering hole is almost identical to its predecessor, Guu, and fans of Guu’s menu can still order some of the staples.

Nori-wrapped takowasabi, a spicy raw octopus salad, is an excellent app, and the kakimayo successfully marries mayo and blistered cheese with grilled oysters. Soul-satisfying kimchee udon is a funky, briny carbonara thanks to the mentaiko (spicy cod roe) that coat each springy noodle, and the kinoko bi bim bap—a sizzling stone bowl filled with crispy, cheesy rice and mushrooms coated in seafood sauce—is nothing short of brilliant.

Forego dessert for a glass of sweet plum wine on the rocks. 398 Church St., 416-977-0999. $$V

KINTON RAMEN

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Almost six years after its debut on Baldwin Street, this boisterous, cramped ramen kitchen still draws lineups. Better than the pork belly and shoulder are the corn and seaweed add-ons, which contribute sweet crunch to the titanic bowls of buttery broth and noodles. Top it with a kumquat-size scoop of fresh garlic for extra heat. 51 Baldwin St., 647748-8900; plus four other GTA locations. $$

MENAMI

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The team behind Yonge and Sheppard’s popular Korean small-plate joint Han Ba Tang turns their attention to udon here: dried shrimp, black sesame paste, chicken thigh tempura and tomato oil versions are all anchored by chewy noodles in hot or cold broth. There are Japanese tapas here, too: king prawns deep-fried in a crisp batter are served with a bright habanero-chili mayonnaise, and albacore tuna is a fine tataki with garlic, wasabi and greenonion oil sauce. Bigger bowls meant for sharing include a mushroom-rich seafood soup, and shishito-spiced braised short rib with dates and buttercup squash. A wide selection of draft sake is supplemented with cocktails, beer and soju.

5469 Yonge St., 416-229-6191. $$VN

MIKU

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From the moment it debuted, Miku’s 180-seat dining room has been overrun—an advantage of being in the heart of the new office district south of the Gardiner. The kaiseki menu consists of cleverly combined exotica. One night, the kaiseki’s star course is a tiered plate of sushi: ocean trout with jalapeño and pink grapefruit, toro with funky black truffle, golden-eye snapper with kumquat compote, and shima-aji (mackerel) with okra and a dashi jelly—it was one of the most exciting things to happen to fish since Nemo reunited with his dad.

10 Bay St., Suite 105, 647-347-7347. $$$$ WVO

NIGIRI-YA

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A few tables are available for diehards, but most of the traffic here is for takeout. Solid renditions of classic maki sushi rolls are tame compared to the restaurant’s signature ones: coconut shrimp are rolled with romaine lettuce; avocado and lime aïoli is far from traditional, but very tasty; and fried softshell crab with tobiko and scallions, although a bit unwieldy, is fun to eat. Vegetarians have plenty to choose from, including an almost meaty sweetpotato tempura roll with soy caramel sauce. Grilled items, like overcooked chicken teriyaki, show less dexterity, but the udon noodles could prove habit forming. 897 Millwood Rd., 416-423-4419. $$V

RAMEN ISSHIN

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The owners of Kingyo, the rollicking Cabbagetown izakaya, are also responsible for this spinoff dedicated to ramen. The space is a decorator’s nightmare of glaring pot lights and taupe tile, but the mainly undergrad clientele cares only that the

50 toronto life Eating and Drinking 2018

house broth has extreme porky flavour. Of the nine available variations, the one to get is the tan-tan—a bracing combination of chili oil, minced pork, braised pork belly and a healthy garnish of nutty black sesame. 421 College St., 416-367-4013. $$V

SANSOTEI RAMEN SS1

Michael Zhang, a graduate of Japan’s renowned Yamato ramen school, draws lineups for his excellent bowls. The tonkotsu ramen is the star of the show, with an intensely rich, gravy-like stock made from long-simmered pork bones. Even without the hearty noodles, the soup could be a meal in itself, with tender soft-cooked eggs, springy black fungus, shredded green onion and sticky braised pork belly. Decent appetizers to choose from include eggstudded fried rice and plump gyoza. 179 Dundas St. W., 647-748-3833; plus three other GTA locations. $$

SHOUSHIN SSS

Chef Jackie Lin offers four omakase menus (the most expensive of which includes caviar, bluefin tuna and Wagyu) that change almost daily. The meal unfolds slowly: first, duck in a dashi broth alongside fried tofu and tender grilled leek. Next, a flawless sashimi plate: sea bream, tuna, spot prawn and octopus. Tuna hand rolls and slices of sweet omelette segue into a dessert trio of black sesame pudding; a soft, deep halvah; and a complex green tea mousse. Servers graciously walk diners through the affordable, carefully crafted sake list. 3328 Yonge St., 416-488-9400. $$$$VA

SKIPPA

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Chef Ian Robinson is turning out some of the most exciting Japanese food Toronto has seen in years.

Creative, immaculate sushi may include ocean trout crowned with a dollop of tomato confit, or New Zealand sea bream heightened by a slick of olive oil and a few sharp shards of preserved lemon.

A subtle balance of sweet mirin and umami-rich dashi inform the ethereal pyramids of soft egg in a masterful tamago. Meaty black maitake mushrooms achieve a deep, satisfying flavor thanks to house-made caramelized miso sauce. Only the sea urchin, a special, falls short, the roe being overwhelmed by the accompanying rice. A daily sorbet—corn, perhaps—closes the meal. Thoughtfully composed sake and shochu menus encourage exploring. 379 Harbord St., no phone. $$OVN

SOLO SUSHI YA

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For the sweetest raw shrimp and creamiest yellowtail, sushi enthusiasts know to head to a little Newmarket strip mall. Chef Jyo Gao’s six-course omakase is a marquee item, and absurdly good value at $70. He shows off his skills with sharp spears of fresh tuna, thick fillets of rich mackerel braised in a homemade soy-chili sauce, and chawanmushi, a silky egg and mushroom custard.

He’s just as skilled with meat, as in a dish of thinly sliced, sweet roast beef bundled around green onions and chunks of salty pork belly. 291 Davis Dr., Newmarket, 905-898-6868. $$$VA

SUSHI KAJI

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For the past 16 years, Sushi Kaji has been a jewel hidden in a Queensway strip mall. The best of the 30 seats face the open sushi prep area, where chef Mitsuhiro Kaji—the closest thing that Toronto has to Tokyo’s Jiro Ono—surgically slices through glistening slabs of fish flown in that morning from Japan. On one visit, Kaji’s omakase includes nori-wrapped rolls of rice and fluke, lightly deep-fried and set in a house-made soy sauce; a warm block of custard-like sesame tofu; sashimi dusted with yuzu zest and fanned out with a shiso leaf; and steamed turnip with a briny dollop of Boston uni and a hash of lightly breaded, deep-fried scallops. The night ends in a procession of sushi, handed across the counter at the exact moment it should be eaten.

860 The Queensway, 416-252-2166. $$$$V

665-667 Queen St. West Toronto ON M6J 1E6 (416) 364-5144 morba.ca

restaurants SUSHI NOMI

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This cheery spot is no bigger than a walk-in closet, but it does a brisk business turning out creative rolls and slice after fresh slice of sashimi, such as ruby-red tuna, glistening salmon, tender spot prawn and lusciously oily mackerel lightly marinated in sea salt. Rice rolls are overstuffed and sloppy, though no less flavourful, like the Caterpi of asparagus, cucumber, smoked eel and delicately layered petals of creamy avocado. Unlicensed.

67 Roncesvalles Ave., 647-748-7288. $$V

YASU SSSS

Chef Yasuhisa Ouchi tracks down the freshest seafood, fusses over the consistency and temperature of his rice and hosts only two seatings a night (three on weekends) in his narrow, gleaming-white room.

He presents each nigiri on an individual cut-glass tray, the morsels as glossy and ornately composed as an art nouveau brooch, and he takes you on a world tour: Sri Lankan tuna, Japanese striped jack, Greek sea bream, Scottish ocean trout, British Columbian uni. The night ends with a traditional slice of flan-like tamago and green tea panna cotta.

81 Harbord St., 416-477-2361. $$$$

ZEN

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The offerings at Markham’s Zen are resolutely minimal. To start, bite-size hunks of broiled beef tongue come on a skewer. There’s no dipping sauce or topping other than a pinch of salt, but the meat has a natural mineral flavour. For a main dish, a daily changing plate of sashimi might include meticulously cut, lean pieces of octopus, meaty tuna, buttery salmon and, the highlight, a beautifully briny raw scallop. Closed Monday.

7634 Woodbine Ave., 905-604-7211. $$$$ W

KOREAN BUK CHANG DONG SOON TOFU

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The melamine tabletops at this scruffy spot are crowded with sizzling plates of bulgogi beef, bi bim bap and the namesake soon tofu, a spicy silken tofu stew. The umami-rich, slow-simmered pork stock is bolstered by your choice of dumplings, beef, pork or vegetables, and is served with purple japonica rice. Sweet bulgogi beef soup brings gossamer noodles that add silky contrast to the tender ruffles of beef. 691 Bloor St. W., 416-537-0972. $$V

DOMA

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This sleek new French-inspired Korean restaurant brings contemporary techniques (sous-vide octopus) and trendy ingredients (mugwort ice cream) to its changing menu. For $65 per person, chef Paul Kim offers diners the option to sample the entire card. His artfully composed plates—like a kimchee-and-perilla-seed bouillabaisse; tender dumplings filled with duck confit and foie gras; or intense kalbi sliders with pickled daikon—seem tailor-made for Instagram. Strong, well-balanced cocktails pair nicely with the dishes, and hypermodern desserts, like shards of red bean sponge cake with yuzu curd, keep sweetness in check while emphasizing texture. 50 Clinton St., 416-551-1550. $$$VO

ODDSEOUL

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Leemo and Leeto Han’s sophomore venture remains a popular late-night spot for sharing plates of boldly flavoured Asian fusion. The snackfocused menu, served until 2 a.m., is packed with munchies that go great with a boozy cocktail. The Loosey, a mini-burger made with ground brisket, processed cheese, kimchee and a kimchee-based hollandaise, tastes like a Korean Big Mac. The tempura prawns, which come deep-fried and drenched in spicy mayo, are unforgettable, and the squash poutine—cubes of deep-fried kabocha topped with mayo, (more) kimchee, curds and gravy—is frighteningly addictive. A draconian no-reservations

52 toronto life Eating and Drinking 2018

policy and servers who treat diners as an inconvenience are vestiges of a trend that’s lost favour for good reason. 90 Ossington Ave., no phone. $$VN

UNCLE MIKEY’S

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Korean flavours and preparations dominate at this Little Portugal kitchen, but hints of Japanese, Italian and French technique are pleasant surprises. Breaded pork has a pink, juicy centre and a crispy panko crust, and buttery house-made gnocchi is the perfect canvas for a rich ragoût of doenjang-braised oxtail. Smaller plates, like mushroomy kombu deep-fried into beautiful, twisting ribbons, receive the same care and attention. 1597 Dundas St. W., 416-537-8973. $$

MALAYSIAN MATAHARI BAR AND GRILL

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Complex flavours and expert cooking set Matahari Grill a few notches above some of the trendy Southeast Asian spots on Ossington. An eggplant starter delivers slices of oblong aubergine brushed with tangy dried shrimp paste, grilled until the chewy outside gives way to a melting interior. Terrifically balanced mee goreng elevates a fast-food staple: al dente egg noodles tangled with generous helpings of shrimp, tofu, egg and a lemongrass-chili soy sauce. Closed Sunday. 39 Baldwin St., 416596-2832. $$VAO

RESTORAN MALAYSIA SS

At this strip-mall favourite in Richmond Hill, a wide-ranging menu incorporates items from all of Malaysia’s considerable influences (Malay, Chinese, Indian) and includes several dishes that could easily be the next food trend. Penang char kway teow, a wide rice noodle, smoky from the wok and dark with caramelized soy, is like a more mysterious pad Thai. House-made roti, stuffed with beef or chicken, is an ideal dipper for a variety of sauces: curry, condensed milk or dhal. Only a complex and luscious Peranakan curry with fried fish pieces (silky and rich, but with muted spices) misses the mark. Desserts are largely built around rice puddings, but there’s a classic banana split for good measure. Cash only.

815 Major Mackenzie Dr. E., Richmond Hill, 905-508-1432. $$ WV

SOOS SSS

The dishes at Soos, inspired by the street food of Malaysia, are original, exciting and consistently excellent. The kapitan tacos are stuffed with limeand lemongrass-flavoured chicken and served on fluffy coconut crêpes; a dish of laksa dumplings brings silky cubes of house-made tofu floating in a rich, subtly fishy curry broth; and the red chili chicken is fried to crispy perfection then doused in a fiery, tongue-tingling spice rub. For dessert, the pisang goreng delivers a mountain of neighbouring Bang Bang’s burnt-toffee ice cream topped with a crunchy fried banana. 94 Ossington Ave., 416901-7667. $$$VA

MEXICAN CAFETERÍA

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Like other locations in the Playa Cabana chain, Cafetería employs distressed vintage decor, subway tile, exposed brick and neon. Bartenders sling a wide range of Mexican-themed beers and cocktails, but smoky mescal, not tequila, is the booze of choice here. Chicken mole, the kitchen’s crown jewel, offers complex layers of acid, toast and spice. The lone dessert, pan de elote, a cornbread cake, is a warm slice of heaven that balances modest sweetness with oversized, crunchy grains of sugar and a dollop of whipped cream. Closed Monday. 974 College St., 647-347-2855. $$ WVO

CAMPECHANO

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The restaurant’s namesake taco, a mix of beef and too-tame chorizo, is elevated by a sprinkling of crunchy chicharrones. But as the city approaches peak taco, it takes something special to stand out.

Here it’s the tortillas, made with imported corn that’s ground in-house. The vegetal notes in the delicate discs shine in the quesadillas, stuffed with beef or mushrooms and loads of oaxaca cheese. Fresh sea bass ceviche, swimming in citrus, honours tradition with its tongue-puckering brightness. Closed Sunday and Monday.

504 Adelaide St. W., 416-777-2800. $$V

CHULA

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It’s hard to think of a better place to while away sunny weekend afternoons than in one of the palmstrewn tiki bars at this new east-end oasis. Spread over two floors, it’s decked out with comfy couches, oversized wicker lanterns and a soundtrack that wouldn’t be out of place at any Caribbean resort.

The menu includes snacks, like Mexican corn, shrimp ceviche and chorizo corn dogs, as well as tacos (of which the best are the carnitas and the rock lobster) and bigger plates—among them an exceptional smoked brisket accompanied by refried beans, roasted corn and smoked queso. A lengthy drinks card lists many margaritas, tequila flights and a great selection of beer. 1058 Gerrard St. E., 416-901-9859. $$OVAE

COCINA ECONOMICA SS

This addition to the Playa Cabana group is hidden in one of Corktown’s quietest corners—but midweek, the place is full and everyone is tipsy from potent margaritas and sangria ladled out of clay pots. Large platters of slow-cooked meats are sold by the pound, accompanied by rice and beans, pickled onions and fresh tortillas. Pork side ribs are wrapped in banana leaves and slow-roasted in a paste of achiote, chipotle and guajillo chilies. For dessert, the kitchen bakes little corn-flour cookies sandwiched around dulce de leche and dusted with coconut. They’re so good you’ll want to order more to go. 141 Berkeley St., 647-748-4777. $$V

EL REY SSS

Mescal is the inspiration behind this new Mexican bar in Kensington—nearly 50 kinds are served in flights and blended into expensive cocktails. Clay copitas of the stuff cover the tables of the lanternlit patio. The short menu, overseen by co-owner Grant van Gameren, makes an effort to transcend Tex-Mex clichés with traditional ingredients and preparations, yet the food isn’t too serious. The hulking guacamaya torta stuffs a chewy, avocadoslathered bun with luscious grilled pork shoulder, crunchy chicharron and cilantro, while the sope brings an earthy potato-corn shell filled with salty refried beans, spicy minced chorizo and mellow salsa—a sunny-side-up quail’s egg binds the whole mess. There are a few mehs amid the mmms, like a blue corn quesadilla that tastes of little more than a bland tortilla and queso fresco. And the staff, though knowledgable, are so aloof they could be mistaken for a comedy troupe parodying attitudinal servers. 2A Kensington Ave., no phone. $$ OVN

GRAND ELECTRIC SS1

Six years in, hour-long waits are still the norm at this much-imitated Parkdale taqueria where Dr. Dre blares, bourbon sours flow and tacos come fast, cheap and messy. Premium fillings, including rich slow-braised beef cheek and golden battered Bajastyle fish, are so stacked with crema, cilantro, pickled red onions and napa cabbage that they require two corn tortillas each to be contained. Extras are well worth it: refreshing tuna ceviche brings fat cubes of lime-soaked fish in avocado mayo; oversized wings come with vinegary hot sauce, sour cream and sesame seeds; and the coconut mousse in a Mason jar is fluffy-light and just sweet enough.

1330 Queen St. W., 416-627-3459. $$VNO

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Toronto Life Ad 7.875" x 5.25"

Jul. 2017 Jun. 12, 2017

INSERTION DATE: ARTWORK DUE:

A UNIQUE VIEW ON CANADIAN DINING

Join Executive Chef John Morris and Restaurateur Cameron Dryburgh at 360 The Restaurant at the CN Tower. Savour inspired Canadian cuisine featuring locally-sourced seasonal ingredients while feasting on spectacular 360-degree revolving views of Toronto with every bite. With a wide selection of wines from Ontario, Canada and the world to complement your meal, your fine dining experience at 360 is sure to find you saying, “Oh Canada.”

To make a reservation visit cntower.ca/360 or call 416-362-5411

restaurants LA CARNITA SS

This outpost of Andrew Richmond’s popular chain bears much of the same trendy visual branding as his other taco joints (so, a whole lotta neon). The fried chicken thighs dressed in shaved cabbage and dripping with honey, hot sauce and a creamy peanut mole are pleasurably crunchy.

Squash quesadillas stuffed with three types of cheese, chopped flowers and pepitas come with butternut squash whipped cream. 106 John St., 647-348-1166; plus four other GTA locations. $$V

LOS COLIBRIS

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If your relationship with Mexican food extends no further than hipster taco joints, then it’s time to experience the joys of the cuisine as interpreted by chef Elia Herrera. She presents the dishes of her native Veracruz with technique and polish, in a dining room that’s just as sophisticated. Rajas poblanas, a marvellous creamy casserole of chicken, corn and poblano pepper mopped up with house-made corn or flour tortillas, configures familiar south-of-the-border flavours in novel ways. 220 King St. W., 416-979-7717. $$$V

PLAYA CABANA

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Unlike its offshoots, the OG Playa is a charming hole in the wall with fixtures that look cobbled together from flotsam and jetsam that washed up on this posh Annex block. Patrons at communal tables huddle over succulent chipotle-marinated octopus tacos, perfectly seared and heavily slathered with creamy guac. The drink card favours

tequila cocktails and beer, for cutting through the chipotle smoke of chicken tinga enchiladas that tingle with tomato acidity, or washing down a disappointing burrito stuffed with chorizo, topped with two salsas and an oozy fried egg. Those fortunate enough to score a table for two can celebrate their luck by clinking churros, delicate and doughy inside, gilded with whipped cream and blasted with a storm of cinnamon sugar. 111 Dupont St., 416-929-3911. $$VO

PLAYA CABANA CANTINA

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At the second of the Playa Cabana restaurants, the menu is longer and more varied, and the crowd— no doubt owing to its Junction location—is more local than scenester. The food, however, is hit-andmiss. Ceviche is tart and spicy with jalapeño, and the guacamole is creamy and heavy on lime. Each fish taco, while an obscene $6 each, contains a solid chunk of fried halibut. But the burrito, with its overcooked chorizo filling, gets a low mark— proof that Cantina is sometimes best for drinks and snacks. 2883 Dundas St. W., 647-352-7767. $$V

WILBUR MEXICANA

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Somewhere on the spectrum between Mexican fast-food chains and hipster taco joints is Wilbur on King West. Diners order at the counter, grab bottles of Mexican cervezas (or craft sodas from a state-of-the-art fountain) and take a seat in a sleek room. There’s a self-serve hot sauce and salsa bar with condiments like a tart pineapple-habanero salsa—the perfect pairing for a grilled avocado

taco layered with feta-like cotija cheese and smoky, creamy chipotle crema. The pulled pork burrito is dry and under-salted, but the grilled Mexican street corn smothered in more crema and cotija is a winner. 552 King St. W., 416-792-1878. $V

MIDDAY BLACK CAMEL

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More than 14 years in, Black Camel remains one of Toronto’s most popular sandwich joints. Start with a light-as-air Portuguese bun, then choose from a list of proteins, whether thin slices of slowcooked brisket or tender, juicy ribbons of roast chicken. House-made sauces and toppings (such as chipotle mayo, earthy cremini mushrooms and bright roasted roma tomatoes) allow for creative combinations. Unlicensed. 4 Crescent Rd., 416929-7518. $ O

BONJOUR BRIOCHE

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The menu at Riverside’s Parisian café is almost the same as it was on opening day close to two decades ago. The sandwiches are awesome: a spicy, garlicky aïoli beautifully balances creamy brie and rare roast beef on baguette; and a pan bagnat of tinned tuna, grated carrot, hard-cooked egg and greens on a milk bun—while not the real deal—is very tasty. Desserts are worth every calorie: a European-style lemon tart is properly sour, and the sweetness of a raisin-studded butter tart is smartly muted by a dollop of whipped cream.

Top FIve

Best New Patios

Five of the best new spots to sip outside The Greater Good This Geary Avenue gem specializes in craft beer, cider, free arcade games and North of Brooklyn pizza. The side patio gets all the afternoon sun and gently rumbles with every passing train. 229 Geary Ave., 647-348-2339.

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Café Cancan Victor Barry’s pretty new bistro does French bites, champagne and romance, all equally well. Its adorable back patio, resplendent in twinkle lights, is the perfect place for a glass or two of French bubbly.

89 Harbord St., 647-341-3100.

54 toronto life Eating and Drinking 2018

3

Birreria Volo From the team behind Bar Volo comes Little Italy’s new beer-nerd paradise and rustically cozy back patio. Good for: hard-to-find farmhouse ales and fried chicken from neighbouring P.G Clucks.

612 College St., no phone.

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The Rooftop at the Broadview Hotel The east end’s hottest new hangout has a most-excellent rooftop patio, open all year long. It’s ideal for sweeping views of the Six—and pouring one (or three) out for Jilly’s.

106 Broadview Ave., 416-362-8439.

5

Tennessee Tavern Grant van Gameren’s EasternEuropean bar in Parkdale is a real sausage party—even a light installation on the neon-lit back patio has Pac Man chasing down wieners instead of cherries.

1554 Queen St. W., 416-535-7777.

photograph by dave gillespie

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restaurants

No reservations are taken, and things run out by late afternoon. Cash only. Closed Monday.

812 Queen St. E., 416-406-1250. $$VOE

CENTRE STREET DELI SS

This old-school spot is one of the city’s few remaining holdouts serving Jewish deli favourites. The menu is a mile long—but save your time and order a smoked meat sandwich. The OldFashioned layers thick, hand-cut slices of spicy brisket between supple slices of rye. Other dishes disappoint: the triple-decker sandwich has bland fillings, and the chocolate layer cake tastes like fridge. 1136 Centre St., Thornhill, 905-731-8037. $$V

COMPLETO SS

This Leslieville hole in the wall is a perfectly good reason to leave the house for hot dogs. Completo’s namesake dish is a Rowe Farms wiener topped with mayo, house-made salsa, mashed avocado and hot sauce. The same garnishes, plus a tomatocilantro salsa, make the churrasco sandwich a tasty mess of naturally raised beef (or pork or chorizo).

There’s no booze, but Completo has an arrangement with neighbouring Hitch and will deliver to the bar’s hungry pint-drinking customers. Cash only. Unlicensed. 5 Coady Ave., 416-901-9233. $VO

DELICA KITCHEN SS1

Four summers ago, Devin Connell and her brother, Luke, closed Paulette’s, their Queen East chickenand-doughnuts place, and opened a second location of their midtown lunch counter in its stead. A terrific Asian-inflected chicken slaw combines crisp napa cabbage, soft breast meat and crunchy, spicy pepitas, dressed in a puckery ginger vinaigrette.

Unlicensed. 913 Queen St. E., 416-546-5408; 1440 Yonge St., 416-546-5408. $$V

DUNDAS PARK KITCHEN SS1

Most of the floor space in this Roncesvalles sandwich shop is given over to open cooking stations, but thoughtful touches—seasonal flowers in a glass pitcher, pressed-tin tiles on the wall—keep the room warm. Lunch staples include a quiche chockfull of mushrooms, and an all-day breakfast sandwich, which brings an English muffin piled with juicy pork sausage, Kozlik’s grainy mustard grains and spicy chimichurri. Closed Saturday through Monday. 2066 Dundas St. W., 647-351-4793. $$VE

EMMA’S COUNTRY KITCHEN SS

At St. Clair West brunch mainstay ECK, weekend diners line up well before the restaurant’s 9 a.m. opening time for their French-toast fix. This is nofrills, morning-meal stuff—eggs, fluffy pancakes and bowls of wholesome baked oatmeal, catering largely to young families with tiny tots in tow. A slice of the daily quiche is served with red-skinned potatoes, salad or fruit; house-made biscuits are dense and buttery, served on their own or smothered in gravy, with a side of scrambled eggs. There are a couple beers on tap, plus classic brunch cocktails—including a pitcher of mimosas for the table. Don’t forget to grab a doughnut on your way out. 810 St. Clair Ave. W., 416-652-3662. $$VE

FLOCK ROTISSERIE AND GREENS SS

The menu at this quick-service spot from the Harbord Room’s Cory Vitiello is small: with five made-to-order salads, a single sandwich and roast chicken served whole, halved or quartered. Behind the counter, a rotisserie spins hormone- and antibiotic-free chickens—spice-rubbed and drycured for a day—to perfection in just over an hour.

Salads with ingredients like kale, red quinoa, marinated chickpeas, roasted beets and wheat berries are given equal care. 330 Adelaide St. W., 647483-5625; plus four other GTA locations. $$ WV

GALLERY GRILL AT HART HOUSE SSS

With its vaulted wooden ceilings, wrought-iron chandeliers, forest of handsome oak furniture and

leaded stained-glass windows, the room is a neoGothic shrine to old money and higher learning.

The rabbit “cake” is a mouth-watering, simply seasoned stack of tender and crispy meat on a bed of sweet and spicy lentils with baby spinach. Grilled Ontario trout over heirloom tomatoes and herbed crema could be outstanding, if only the kitchen removed the pin bones and served it skin-side-up to retain its crispiness. Chef Suzanne Baby’s signature maple crème brûlée—made with U of T’s own syrup—may well be the silkiest in the city.

7 Hart House Cir., 416-978-2445. $$ WVE

PORCHETTA AND CO. SS1

The star at this Dundas West counter shop— succulent, slow-roasted pork with crackling—is as good as it’s ever been. Each bite of the house sandwich, with truffle sauce, parmesan, grainy mustard and hot sauce on a soft kaiser roll, is better than the last. Soda from Boylan Bottling is a decent substitute for beer, and seating is minimal, though there are some benches outside for warm-weather dining. Friendly and efficient staff manage to keep up with the stream of orders despite the cramped space. Closed Sunday and Monday. 825 Dundas St. W., 647-352-6611; 545 King St. W., 647-351-8844. $

SAVING GRACE

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Dundas West revellers fighting hangovers head en masse to this perennially packed brunch spot. The day’s specials, scrawled on a blackboard, can be belt-busting (a plate of tortillas piled high with smashed potatoes, mushrooms and eggs, topped with punchy chimichurri) or just healthy enough (a barley-arugula salad with hunks of pumpkin and a duo of poached eggs). There’s no booze, but the Espressado, a smoothie combining condensed milk, espresso and avocado, is particularly restorative. 907 Dundas St. W., 416-703-7368. $$ E

STARVING ARTIST SS

This location of Starving Artist brings the ultrahipness of its original Lansdowne and Bloor restaurant to St. Clair and Oakwood. The Brunchwich stuffs egg, processed cheddar and caramelized bacon between two fluffy waffles. The service, which at times is slow and full of attitude, may not be a concern for hungover west-enders, but is aggravating when the clientele is mainly restless parents with hyper kids. 1078 St. Clair Ave. W., 416901-7479; plus one other GTA location. $$ WVOE

MIDDLE EASTERN ATLAS SSSS

At chef Doug Penfold’s newest effort, the menu, much like at Cava, is split between snacks, salads and larger plates, everything intended to be shared.

The best of the smaller plates are a sweet, sticky dip of ground toasted almonds, honey and argan oil to be spread on a chunk of pan-fried semolina cake; and a golden phyllo cigar stuffed with braised hen-of-the-woods or king oyster mushrooms, with a green, tongue-tingling harissa made from spinach, parsley and serrano pepper. Goat can be tough, gamey and about as appealing as chewing on a mop. But Penfold’s version corrects matters: he slow-roasts it for four hours and serves it in a cumin- and coriander-laced stew of okra, squash and chickpeas. The wine list tilts toward Spanish sherries, vermouths and big-character wines that can stand up to bright Moroccan spices and stews.

18 Toronto St., 416-546-9050. $$$$V

BYBLOS SSSS

The dining room is one of the most elegant in the city, with caramel leather banquettes and a barrel-vaulted ceiling. A plate of the creamy house-made labneh—a thick Persian-style yogurt—comes with chunks of wood oven–fired flatbread. Hand-painted Turkish plates bring pinched dumplings stuffed with smoky roasted

56 toronto life Eating and Drinking 2018

eggplant, deep-fried lamb ribs sticky from a chiliflecked molasses, and grilled rib-eye smothered in a za’atar-flavoured butter. The star of the night is a mound of basmati rice studded with marcona almonds and barberries. 11 Duncan St., 647660-0909. $$$$V

DR. LAFFA SS1

The namesake bread at Dr. Laffa has earned a cult following and, sometimes, half-hour waits for takeout. It’s no wonder: the Israeli super-pitas are moist, airy, fire-blistered discs with a mildly sour finish. Eat them on their own, or dip them in creamy hummus kicked with pepper and citrus and topped with fried eggplant slivers. The laffa double as sandwich wrappers for crunchy falafel, rolled with vinegary coleslaw, sour kosher dills and hot sauce. Closed Saturday. 3027 Bathurst St., 647352-9000; 441 Clark Ave. W., Vaughan, 905-597-7072. $$$ WVAE

FAT PASHA SSS

Tel Aviv meets Toronto at Anthony Rose’s boisterous Dupont dining room. Expect to order a lot: creamy hummus; fattoush salad studded with halloumi; and an homage to the chicken liver at New York’s Sammy’s Roumanian, mixed tableside with slices of hard-cooked egg, onion, crispy chicken skin and a stream of golden rendered fat.

Vegetarians make out just as well as meat eaters: the must-order main is the whole roasted cauliflower, sporting tahini, pomegranate seeds, pine nuts and a green sheen from a bath of spicy skhug sauce. The cocktails keep up with the shtick: Jerry’s Madhatten features a vermouth made from Manischewitz. The sufganiyot are worth saving room for: dusted with cinnamon sugar, filled with sour-cream icing and served on a chocolate mousse bed, they would be bubbe’s favourite beignets. 414 Dupont St., 647-340-6142. $$$ WOVAE

MAHA’S SSS

At this tiny east-end kitchen, Maha Barsoom and her children, Mark and Monika Wahba, send out over-the-top-delicious Egyptian food. Their falafel—flatter and darker than their Lebanese counterparts, and sesame seed–encrusted—are a contender for the city’s best. The Pharaoh’s Shrimp po’ boy is clever and tasty: tender shrimp, fried in a crisp batter, are stuffed into a warm pita and liberally sauced with tomeya, an Egyptian garlic mayo.

Desserts are uninspiring, but the killer honeycardamom lattes are. Unlicensed. Closed Wednesday. 226 Greenwood Ave., 416-462-2703. $$VOE

SOUK TABÜLÈ

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The Canary District’s new counter-service outpost of the Tabülè chain isn’t just serving streamlined versions of sit-down food. Everything arrives quickly—on real plates—and no shortcuts are taken. Entrées are priced for one, sized for two: the turmeric-tinged Beirut pulled chicken is exceptionally moist and lean, served over seasoned rice. It’s stiff competition for the punchy beef shawarma or falafel platters. And for those who want a satisfying skillet of roasted tomatoes, peppers and eggs for dinner, there’s all-day shakshuka. A side order of crispy Phoenician fries, blasted with za’atar and showered in tahini, is always a good idea. Closed Monday. 494 Front St. E., 416-583-5914. $$ WVE

PERSIAN TAKHT-E TAVOOS

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This brunch-and-lunch College Street spot showcases Iranian comfort food, and in the mornings, diners crowd around tables and sit on plush floor seating decorated with pillows and Persian rugs.

Both the kalleh pacheh, a rich soup made with sheep’s tongue and hooves, and the haleem, a bellywarming porridge of wheat berries and shredded

An ambitious project

romanazzi design | romanazzi57@gmail.com

In 1985, thanks to the pioneering instincts of my father Dino, we launched the ambitious and challenging Casale del Giglio project; a project which, over the years, has taken us to heights of quality and professional satisfaction which could only have been dreamt of then.

Convinced that our territory had great potential, we invested heavily in viticultural research and with the close and long term collaboration of our oenologist, Paolo Tiefenthaler, succeeded in totally revolutionizing the Agro Pontino valley’s approach to wine making.

Glass in hand, whichever the wine, you are looking at the outcome of long years of fervent study, at wine which through the tireless efforts of a dedicated team just keeps on getting better and better!

Cheers!

Antonio Santarelli

www.casaledelgiglio.it

restaurants

kicked jus alongside a heroic square of creamy yuca gratin. Tropical-tinged cocktails, like the Baro Sour, made with two kinds of pisco, are a lot of fun—especially with a bowl of house-made chips and guac. 485 King St. W., 416-363-8388. $$$ WVNE

hOT SPOT

BRASSAII RESTAURANT AND LOUNGE

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This King West veteran wears its years gracefully. The alpha appetizer is seared foie gras served with toasted brioche, candied pistachios, veal jus and a balsamic reduction. A daintier starter is velvety veal carpaccio, decadent with soft mushrooms, salty capers, pastry puffs, and truffle and cheddar shavings. If the service were less intrusive and the house music didn’t pump up when the lights go down at 10 p.m., you might think this was fine dining. 461 King St. W., 416598-4730. $$$$ NOE

FRING’S SSS

Drake isn’t an investor in Susur Lee’s newest King West place, but he is invested in its success, hyping it on social media and deejaying the opening party.

Lee’s sons, pals of Drizzy, conceived the comfortfood menu, the star of which is a heap of fried chicken served with pickled watermelon, chililaced maple syrup and garlicky aïoli. It’s all better than it needs to be for the assembled partiers, who are more interested in popping $725 bottles of Armand de Brignac. 455 King St. W., 416-979-9696. $$$VANO

NUIT SOCIAL S1

The Hawaiian pie at Jonathan Poon and Jesse Fader’s Ossington hipster pizza-andpasta joint swaps out ham for mortadella (page 22).

lamb, are specialties. Still, it’s the eggs—served sunny-side-up over sautéed tomatoes and garlic, mixed with dates and walnuts, or studded with salty halloumi and smoked salmon—that have turned droves of Torontonians on to the merits of the Persian brunch. Closed Monday and Tuesday.

1120 College St., 647-352-7322. $$VE

ZAFFRON SS

Persian restaurant and bistro, Zaffron has a Mediterranean villa vibe, with fake clay tiles and a wood-burning oven that churns out decent thincrust pizzas. But the Persian food is the real reason to visit. The kashkeh bademjan blends roasted eggplant, yogurt and sweet shredded onion into a wonderfully rich spread. Ghaimeh, a hearty stew of veal chunks, saffron broth and yellow split peas, is comforting and expertly made, but, like many Persian dishes, may taste strangely sour to the uninitiated. 6200 Yonge St., 416-223-7070. $$$ WVOE

PORTUGUESE CHIADO SSS1

While most restaurants strive to reinvent every six months, Chiado’s charm is in its consistency.

The kitchen specializes in traditional Portuguese

dishes, like seared beef tenderloin served with tawny port gravy, pickled vegetables and black peppercorns. Other good choices can be found among the outstanding seafood creations, such as grilled squid with blistered flesh and just the right accents of olive oil, cilantro, citrus and garlic. The service is friendly but formal, and the massive wine list offers Toronto’s best collection of Portuguese bottles. 864 College St., 416538-1910. $$$$V

RESTO-LOUNGE BARO SSS

Chef Steve Gonzalez has turned Valdez, his tooloud street-food party on King West, into a polished Latin American restaurant that suits the 40-plus crowd, as well as the neighbourhood’s young, moneyed partiers. The three-storey space is now one of the strip’s most inviting. As for the menu, Gonzalez amped up the raw seafood selection and refined the mains, which are satisfying Colombian staples with Italian or Asian flourishes (though dishes dappled with nori and edamame can be skipped). A flight of five ceviches includes a subtle and sweet concoction of shrimp, mayo, ketchup, horseradish, avocado and lime. Ropa nueva, a riff on a Cuban classic, is tender braised beef in chili-

58 toronto life Eating and Drinking 2018

PEOPLES EATERY

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THOROUGHBRED

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The owners of 416 Snack Bar at Queen and Bathurst replicated the bourbon-jacked buzz that made their first place so much fun. Dishes are divided between pan-Asian bar snacks (General Tso’s tofu, Vietnamese beef salad) and Jewish deli staples (potato latkes, whitefish salad). The justfatty-enough tongue sandwich with grainy mustard on a salt-crusted pretzel bun is the best.

The deep-fried tofu cubes are a close second— golden-crisp with custardy centres, they’re an excellent version of the classic cheap eat.

307 Spadina Ave., 416-792-1784. $$$VAN Open for three years now, casual hipster eatery Thoroughbred is emphatic proof that there is thoughtful, well-made food in the heart of the oftmaligned Entertainment District. Housed in a narrow Victorian near John and Richmond, the restaurant offers exceptional cocktails, a wellpriced, geography-spanning wine list, a good selection of local beers and seasonally driven bites. A perfect order here starts with the falafel plate, which swaps out chickpeas for puréed broccoli to extraordinary effect, paired with a bulgur salad and smoked yogurt, and the kung pao cauliflower, deep-fried until crispy and tossed in a sweet-andtangy sauce with roasted cashews. A banquet burger is cooked to a perfect pink, and the accom-

photograph by dave gillespie

SUperpoint

Though this small shared-plates spot on Queen West is constantly buzzing with couples on dates and friends catching up, you’ll rarely wait for a seat—and ending up at the Mondrian-inspired stained glass bar isn’t exactly a compromise. This largely owes to Nuit’s quick menu format: a build-aboard selection of top-cut cheeses and meats might include a mushroomy, raw-milk Riopelle from Quebec and a dense and tangy local summer sausage made from lamb. It’s also, perhaps, the only restaurant in the city with a menu dedicated solely to olives. Mains range from smaller surf dishes like a saucy, if slightly overdone, tumble of octopus tentacles in citrus-braised tomatoes, to brawnier cuts of meat plates to share, including a flash-grilled flatiron steak doused in a bright and peppery chimichurri. 1168 Queen St. W., 647-350-6848. $$VNO

restaurants

panying wedges are good enough to convert a confessed frites lover. 304 Richmond St. W., 416551-9221. $$$VANO

SCANDINAVIAN KARELIA KITCHEN SS1

Leif Kravis and Donna Ashley run a unicorn of a restaurant in Bloordale. It’s one of the only Nordic dining rooms in the city, where shrimp smørrebrods and smoked salmon chowders are menu mainstays, and one of very few brunch spots that all but guarantees no lineup. For all the convenience takeout offers, lingering over a full-service dinner is best; it allows the kitchen to court you with hot and decidedly heavier plates, from pillowy dumplings dressed as poutine to meltingly tender lamb belly laid on garlic rapini and creamed corn.

Ashley will guide guests through smokehouse platters of expertly cured fish and meat, house-made vegetable chips and quick-preserve grapes that snap with pickly sweetness. If you’re into the cocktails—peppery, strong, sometimes even spicy—she may pour you a little extra on the side.

1194 Bloor St. W., 647-748-1194. $$$ WVAOE

SEAFOOD CHASE SSSS

The city’s flashiest seafood spot is one of two restaurants in a refurbished 19th-century downtown office building (Chase Fish and Oyster is the more casual lower-level kitchen). The menu at the formal fifth-floor spot includes sharing platters such as caviar and cured salmon, harissa-spiced grilled octopus, and a whole halibut as big as the table, served with a brown-butter sauce. Closed Sunday.

10 Temperance St., 647-348-7000. $$$$ WVAO

HONEST WEIGHT

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Fishmonger extraordinaire John Bil and his partner, Victoria Bazan, run this bright, unassuming fish shop and restaurant. Plump B.C. clams and lush mussels are cooked in a bit of fish stock and served in their own rich juices with a few batons of bacon and minced shallots to set them off. Fish crudo—great slabs of whatever’s in season: bonito, line-caught bluefin, mackerel—gets all it needs from a splash of fruity olive oil, a few citrus segments and a little chili. There’s no fish and chips, but purists will find plenty to admire in the creamy, shellfish-packed chowder, or the simply grilled prawns. 2766A Dundas St. W., 416-604-9992. $$$ A

JOSO’S SSS

Forty years in, this beloved Yorkville institution remains an homage to its larger-than-life founders, Joso and Angiolina Spralja. His borderlinelibidinous artwork still adorns nearly every inch of the walls, while the dishes they introduced still appear on the menu. Some recipes are showing their age: the Joso salad is nicely dressed but forgettable. More impressive is the renowned fish platter that servers display for patrons. Glistening specimens from Adriatic, Mediterranean and Pacific waters are presented before being grilled and dressed with oil and lemon. They are delicious in their unadorned simplicity. The same can be said for the restaurant’s jet-black spaghetti Siciliana, to which cuttlefish simmered in its own ink lends its dark, lip-staining colour. Closed Sunday. 202 Davenport Rd., 416-925-1903. $$$$VO

OYSTER BOY

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Saturated with brine, the air in this nearly-20-yearold Trinity Bellwoods seafood joint carries the unmistakable scent of lush oysters straight out its door. The narrow room accommodates a few tables for groups, and a handful of little booths in the back—perfect for lovers to test the old wives’ tale about the amorous effect of oysters. There are

bivalves in all sizes and from both coasts, plus some from farther afield, like an icy tray of Kaipara oysters from the northern coast of New Zealand. Delicate little beauties from P.E.I.’s Saltgrass Point are clean and bright with a bit of flinty sweetness, and they pair well with the no-nonsense horseradish and mignonette accompaniments. For the most part, the non-oyster part of the menu is far from libidinous, but who goes to an oyster bar for mac and cheese? 872 Queen St. W., 416-534-3432. $$$ WV

SINGAPOREAN HAWKER BAR

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This two-level Southeast Asian snack bar on Ossington serves food until 2 a.m. on Friday and Saturday. You can get frozen shots for just over $5, and seats are readily available on weeknights without lineups or attitudinal servers. Chef Alec Martin is deft at blending garlic, chilies, galangal, turmeric, ginger, kaffir lime and coconut into plates layered with flavours, but they’re still simple, like deep-fried tofu rolled in lip-searing chili salt and a bowl of Singapore noodles with tiger prawns. To end the meal, red bean ice cream and banana fritters are perfect for sharing.

164 Ossington Ave., 647-343-4698. $$VA

SPANISH BAR ISABEL

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Few restaurants in the city are as tough to score a table at than Grant van Gameren’s Spanish tavern on College. That’s because few places deliver as much joy for 50-odd dollars per person. Over four years in, GvG and his team have nailed their brand of Barcelonian party food mixed with Torontonian nose-to-tail edge. Toasted montadito is layered with spicy sobrassada, earthy-sweet honey and foie gras shavings so fine and fatty they melt on contact. The Basque cake doused in boozy sherry cream is a buttery delight. The room, a hideous pastiche of wood panelling and ’70s rec room light fixtures, is so ugly it eventually grows on you, especially after midnight when you stumble out full and happy.

797 College St., 416-532-2222. $$$$VAN

BAR RAVAL

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Grant van Gameren has replicated the kind of Barcelona tapas bar where you grab an espresso on the way to work, meet friends for five o’clock cocktails, and perch with a paramour late into the night, grazing from plates of lusciously fatty chorizo and gildas of speared olives, Italian peppers and pickled pearl onions. The menu is weighted to seafood, much of it steamed and served in the cans in which it was preserved. The standout option is pungently delicious razor clams and sweet peppers. Bartenders push a long, on-theme list of sherries and rare vermouths, yet the real treats are artisanal cocktails. 505 College St., no phone. $$$VNOE

CAVA SSSS

Whittled legs of pata negra, rows of Spanish wine and a decor of honey-coloured wood and mirrors greet diners at this pocket of Iberian comfort. The environment is conducive to intimacy, likewise the food. Two-bite pinchos, Basque crostini slathered in olive oil and gilded with flavour-bomb toppings like sweet, caramelized, sherry-roasted figs and funky Valdeon blue cheese, transcend mere bread and spreads. Larger dishes introduce clever Japanese accents. Bonito shavings ripple over bundles of deep fried eggplant, but these umamipacked takoyaki play smartly off bracingly acidic tomatillo salsa and silky queso fresco. Dotted with chervil and blanketed by a layer of peanuts and blueberries, a dessert of chocolate crema may be an item too delectable to share with your loved one.

1560 Yonge St., 416-979-9918. $$$$ WVAO

60 toronto life Eating and Drinking 2018

PATRIA SSS1

Tucked down a laneway, set apart from the hustle and bustle of King West, there’s an undeniable hint of the clandestine while making your way to this sultry tapas bar. Make like the Spaniards and come for dinner well after 8 p.m. to avoid bored children and madras-clad tourists. It’s around this time that the lights go dim, the music recedes and conversations take on a sexier hush as diners lean in over little clay pots of warm mixed olives and small plates of perfect, gooey croquetas. The paella, stunningly simple, made marvellous with ample saffron and lemon cooked long enough to disarm any tooastringent sourness, arrives a brisk half hour after being ordered—well before appetizers are finished.

This is food meant to be picked at long into the night, and by the time the grilled flank of luscious Iberico pork arrives, decorated with a bright agrodolce salsa, the paella has only just begun to cool.

478 King St. W., 416-367-0505. $$$$ WVO

PORTLAND VARIETY SS1

Stepping inside this surprisingly relaxed King West tapas joint transports diners away from the high-flying hormones of a typical Friday night in clubland. The cocktail list is full of frills, with planks of hickory and cedar ready to be smoked into whisky-rinsed tumblers, but there’s great value to be found on the wine list, too—especially on Monday, when bottles are half price. Most dishes are contemporary Spanish staples, inflected with touches of North African and Balkan seasoning. Beef carpaccio, decorated with gorgeous figs and translucent ribbons of shaved fennel, is stunning to look at and even better to eat. Turkish-style meatballs—springy orbs of pork and lamb floating on a harissa-laced sea of hot tomato sauce and crowned with a cooling, lemony spoonful of cucumber-studded yogurt—are a must. And the cinnamon steam rising from the grilled aubergines carries the promise of something as sweet and smoky as a stolen kiss. It almost delivers, too.

587 King St. W., 416-368-5151. $$$ WVNOE

SALT WINE BAR

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In a city that’s suddenly bursting with praise for new-school Spanish tapas and pinchos joints, almost-seven-year-old Salt Wine Bar feels weirdly dated—but that’s not entirely a bad thing. The cozy Ossington room, filled top to bottom, back to front with shelves of hard-to-find Iberian wine, is decidedly old-school in its approach: a menu of simple, well-executed dishes and nice things to drink. The standouts include citrusy grilled calamari on a fresh, tart succotash, or mild merguez sausage in a creamy tomato-chickpea broth, perfect for dipping and worth an extra order of bread.

225 Ossington Ave., 416-533-7258. $$VN

STEAK THE FIFTH AND TERRACE SS

At this urban lounge, executive chef J.P. Challet emphasizes French cuisine, while chef Robert Toppan focuses on Italian dishes. Challet manages the surf portion with skill: sweet corn and even sweeter peaches mingle with tart preserved lemon and espelette pepper to complement a thick, moist fillet of salmon. The steak disappoints, however. The bordelaise, a mixture of bone marrow, wine and demi-glace, is superb, but a bland medium-rare slab of commodity strip loin needs more help than even this expertly crafted sauce can offer. Closed Sunday to Wednesday.

225 Richmond St. W., Suite 501B, 416-979-3005. $$$$VAO

HY’S STEAKHOUSE AND COCKTAIL BAR SSS1 At lunchtime, downtown’s dealers devour shaved steak sandwiches and chicken sloppy joes in this gilded pleasure den. The traditional steak house menu has some disrupters: to start, fantastically

restaurants

crisp braised pork belly has dishy tomato compote and an ingenious sprinkle of cashews and raisins.

A trio of lightly seared scallops napped in beurre blanc is dolloped with passion fruit. The standout among the steaks is the 16-ounce bone-in rib-eye, a marbled plank of USDA prime. 120 Adelaide St. W., 416-364-6600. $$$$ WV

JACOBS AND CO. STEAKHOUSE SSSS

The place is bright and modern, with T.O.’s finest pro athletes often squeezing into four prime horseshoe booths. You could make a meal of the white cheddar popovers, but you’re here to eat steak, and Jacobs’s Ontario cattle producers are the sizzle. The aged-60-days, 18-ounce bone-in prime Hereford strip loin from Guelph is pleasingly chewy yet still tender, with a perfect char protecting its rare heart and a flavour that finishes like parmesan or asiago.

12 Brant St., 416-366-0200. $$$$ A

THAI KHAO SAN ROAD SS

A year after the building’s landlord forced it to close, the Entertainment District’s favourite Thai spot has reopened in new digs. It’s traded in its formerly cavernous home for a larger, high-ceilinged industrial space in a new condo tower, outfitted with colourful tiles and worn communal tables.

Owner Monte Wan and chef Chantana Srisomphan have been wise not to tinker with the menu: favourites, like the khao soi, a rich, belly-warming golden curry soup, and pad gra prao, holy basil–inflected ground chicken (or pork or beef or tofu or shrimp) crowned with a fried egg, are as popular as ever.

11 Charlotte St., 647-352-5773. $$ WOV

KIIN

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As their restaurant empire expands, owners Nuit and Jeff Regular have turned their talents to the complex and intricate craft of Royal Thai cuisine.

To do this, they eschew strong flavours, heat and funk in favour of a more demure approach. Simple rice crackers are gilded with a creamy tamarind, crab and peanut dressing, and an excellent salad of blanched, star-shaped winged beans derives complexity from the subtle application of chili shrimp paste, fried shallots, toasted coconut and boiled duck egg. Larger dishes include slices of grilled pork jowl, deliciously fatty and flavoured with tamarind, mint, shallots and a sprinkle of crunchy toasted rice; a whole salt-crusted sea bream, presented as an offering and then taken away to be deboned, returns alongside carefully constructed kale cups filled with herbs and rhizomes.

326 Adelaide St. W., 647-490-5040. $$$V

NANA SSS

At this Queen West spot, diners sit on red plastic stools at communal tables under a canopy of Thai flags and kick back with a lemongrass rum cocktail. For his chicken laab, Monte Wan swaps out the usual fine-ground meat for deep-fried breaded chunks, like gourmet KFC. Khao soi rates a cut above for the rich depth of the broth and the crispiness of the deep-fried chicken cutlet. The dish that sums the place up is an irreverent variation on pad Thai that Wan calls pad mama, a tangled heap of thin noodles and scored sections of hot dog that, in the heat of the pan, open into garish pink blossoms. 785 Queen St. W., 647-352-5773. $$ WVN

PAI SS1

One of many Thai restaurants from Nuit and Jeff Regular, Pai specializes in the dishes of the country’s northern region and evokes a backpackers’ hostel. Apps include sweet fritters of shredded squash; skewers of grilled pork dipped in a funky oyster sauce; and a bright, citrusy, chili-laced salad of green papaya and dried shrimp.

The kitchen is especially adept at curries, like a

lime-infused green curry swimming with bamboo shoots and silky tofu and served in a hollowed-out coconut. 18 Duncan St., 416-901-4724. $$VO

SABAI SABAI SS1

Chef Nuit Regular’s Thai and Laotian dishes arrive in rapid-fire fashion, which affords little time to appreciate the balance of flavours and textures that define them, but Nuit’s massaman curry and khao soi demand to be savoured at any pace: the former a high-wire act balancing extreme acidity and richness; the latter a luxuriously rich yellow curry with subtle sinus-clearing heat. The fires should subside just in time for a finisher of mango sticky rice with coconut cream. 81 Bloor St. E., 647-748-4225. $$V

VEGETARIAN AWAI SSS1

While there’s no mistaking that Nathan Isberg’s Awai is a vegetarian restaurant—the Persiancarpet wall hangings, Joni Mitchell and tisane selection are dead giveaways—even the most hardcore meathead will succumb to Isberg’s ravioli stuffed with braised artichokes; his flatbreads blackened from a wood-fired oven and loaded with cherry tomatoes; and his paella of black arborio and wild rices with a funky trio of oyster mushrooms, black truffle and huitlacoche, plus a scattering of puffed rice on top for extra texture.

Vegetarians, once imprisoned in the salad section, have a lot to be thankful for. 2277 Bloor St. W., 647-643-3132. $$$ WVAO

HOGTOWN VEGAN

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Plant-based, southern-style dishes draw crowds to this Bloor West kitchen. The shiitake mushrooms, breaded and fried to look like clams, have the snap of an expertly fried vegetable. The same goes for the unfortunately named Un-Chicken and Waffles, strips of peppery, crunchy tofu served on top of a mound of creamy sweet potato and salty sautéed collard greens. Most true-to-name is Hogtown’s Fries Supremacy: a tousled tower of fries, spears of chopped scallion and a drizzle of sunflower-seed sour cream. 1056 Bloor St. W., 416-901-9779. $$VE

PLANTA

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Yorkville’s Planta is Toronto’s latest evidence that veganism has become extremely cool and increasingly mainstream. The collaboration between Nota Bene chef David Lee and the group behind swanky spots like the Chase tries to persuade diners that root vegetables can be as sexy as foie gras. It’s worth a visit just for the burger: a patty made of black beans, mashed lentils and beetroot, plus a dozen spices, on a plush housemade sesame bun with pickled onions, jalapeños, rounds of ripe tomato, a sheaf of Boston lettuce and mushrooms smoked over white-oak chips, which—if you let your mind wander—pass as a fine substitute for bacon. 1221 Bay St., 647-348-7000. $$$ WVAE

PUBLIC KITCHEN SS

In his North York kitchen, chef-owner Doug McNish sends out filling and flavourful organic plant-based food to a room decorated with inspirational quotes, Polaroid snaps and stacks of his own books. The eclectic menu can be playful at times: McNish’s take on a maki roll is stuffed with brown rice, smoked carrot “lox” and cashew cream cheese; and his tromp l’oeil of fat king mushroom coins looks just like seared sea scallops. As faux meats go, tempeh is too salty in a sweet Asian glaze, but a chimichurri-marinated grilled seitan is delicious and expertly charred. A dessert sampler is oh-sosweet but indulgently good, with wedges of creamy peanut butter, vegan chocolate, crispy rice squares and pumpkin “cheesecake.” 561 Marlee Ave., 647341-1736. $$VE

62 toronto life Eating and Drinking 2018

VIETNAMESE ANH DAO SS

This family-run spot is a prize among Spadina’s many weathered storefronts. Pork-packed spring rolls and fresh, herbal cold rolls are a great way to start (better than the rubbery deep-fried shrimp on sugar cane). Tender grilled lemongrass pork tops vermicelli noodle bowls, which come with loads of Thai basil, mint and cilantro. Cash only.

383 Spadina Ave., 416-598-4514. $$V

BANH MI BOYS SS

The menu at this popular sub shop is full of clever culinary mash-ups, like the namesake banh mi sandwich (a heap of soft, smoky pulled pork dressed with mayo, cilantro and crunchy pickled carrot, all squished into a crisp baguette), and fluffy steamed buns filled with star anise–brushed pork belly. Unlicensed. 399 Yonge St., 416-977-0303; plus two other GTA locations. $ WV

HANOI 3 SEASONS SS1

Though the Queen East location is prettier and has a patio, the Gerrard spot is where it all began. Golden patties of minced squid float in a tart chicken broth with tender noodles, dill and diced tomato. Wide ribbons of garlicky beef, tangled with baby bok choy, come in a pool of red curry broth and dusted with pepper and toasted sesame seeds. For dessert: iced Vietnamese coffee and a dish of ginger, mango or black sesame ice cream. 588 Gerrard St. E., 416463-9940; 1135 Queen St. E., 416-469-3010. $VA

MI MI SS1

East- and west-enders flock to this cavernous dining room on Gerrard, impervious to its paintchipped walls and cheesy, yellowing artwork. The food is uniformly excellent. Mi xui cao is a soulful, savoury chicken broth with shrimp-andmushroom dumplings, crunchy stalks of bok choy and a heaping tangle of egg noodles. Best of all is the restaurant’s bun menu: combinations of sweet, garlicky shrimp paste, juicy slivers of grilled beef and pork, and homemade pork sausage—all served on strands of vinegar-soaked carrot and cucumber.

Cash only. 688 Gerrard St. E., 416-778-5948. $$V

PINKY’S CA PHE

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The neon-lit interior looks like an illicit Hanoi jazz club, but it’s really another snack bar from the boys behind Hanmoto. Leemo Han and Joe Kim riff on traditional Vietnamese dishes with no regard for authenticity beyond deliciousness. Ban xeo, a Vietnamese crêpe, is rendered more like tempura, with the batter covering florets of broccoli ready to be dipped in a spicy nuoc cham sauce. Short ribs, chicken legs and pork jowl are all grilled over charcoal on the back patio, and served with herbs, pickles and lettuce for wrapping. Yellowfin tuna, scallops and clams in a sharp coconut milk marinade make for a bright, exotic ceviche. Listed without explanation, cocktails like the Spiceman and the Saigon Rock encourage adventurism, or at least question-asking. The tres leches, a sweetly spicy take on a McCain Deep ’n Delicious cake, is served—appropriately—in an aluminum pan with a plastic lid. 53 Clinton St., no phone. $$ OVN

RUA VANG GOLDEN TURTLE

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The kitchen at this 26-year-old haunt on Ossington still delivers soulful, belly-filling noodle soups. Fresh salad rolls—juicy spirals of herbs, grilled beef and springy vermicelli—are a nice start. Spring rolls have a golden-crisp shell, but the ground pork filling is mealy. Slippery strands of rice noodles, paper-thin waves of rare beef and bouncy ruffles of tripe make for a bowl of satisfying pho, but better still is the chili oil– slicked, lemongrass-infused bun bo hue, with brisket, flank steak, pork shoulder and a spongy pork cake. 125 Ossington Ave., 416-531-1601.

Susur Lee invites you to a Chinese Dim Sum Restaurant the way it was meant to be – Nouvelle Chinoise cuisine featuring classic dishes and dim sum updated and enhanced by Chef Lee's delectable signature.

Wahlburgers Toronto facebook.com/WahlburgersCA @WahlburgersCA

328 WELLINGTON ST W TORONTO M5V 3T4 LUCKEERESTAURANT.COM 416.935.0400

Fresh, delicious comfort food – Wahlberg childhood favourites, classic made-to-order burgers, inventive sides – prepared by chefs who care in a vibrant yet family-friendly environment.

46 Blue Jays Way (at King W) wahlburgers.ca

Food shops

Toronto’s best provisioners, from bakers to butchers, gourmet grocers to artisanal picklers salt. Organic spelt and red-fife sourdough loaves balance hearty virtue with yeasty pleasure.

172 Baldwin St., 416- 546-2280.

BOBBETTE AND BELLE

hot Spot

The spacious east-end pâtisserie from cake wizard Allyson Bobbitt and pastry chef Sarah Bell is more feminine than a fully loaded Barbie Dreamhouse.

Options include homey American treats (salted caramel corn, buttery cupcakes) and haute French bonbons (macarons, chocolate fleurs). 1121 Queen St. E.; 3347 Yonge. St., 416-466-8800.

BUNNER’S BAKE SHOP

The local fervour surrounding this Junction vegan bakery is well-deserved. The gluten-free three-seed bread, a popular item, is magical, studded with sunflower, pumpkin and flax seeds. Cinnamon buns with dairy-free buttercream are a close second. They also make cupcakes, muffins, savoury pockets and three-layer cakes. 3054 Dundas St. W., 647-352-2975; 244 Augusta Ave., 647-350-2975.

BUTTER AVENUE

Rows of pastel macarons line the display case at Butter Avenue, the Queen West outpost of the popular uptown pâtisserie-café. The bright, marble-clad space offers elaborately topped tarts, extrarich mousse cakes and, of course, dainty macarons in flavours both traditional (dark chocolate) and inventive (charcoal-roasted matcha). 477 Queen St. W., 416-815-8686.

CELENA’S BAKERY

At his colourful Kensington workspace, La Banane chef Brandon Olsen turns out beautiful chocolate bonbons and bars that are (almost) too pretty to eat (page 68).

BAKERIES ACE BAKERY

The airy, modern café in the Castlefield Design District is still a reliable destination for excellent breads and addictive, cranberry-filled, sugarcrusted crisps. Made-to-order gourmet sandwiches feature herb-baked chicken or turkey breast, double-smoked bacon, tomato and lettuce piled on a panini loaf, with sage Sriracha mustard and onion aïoli. Closed Sunday. 1 Hafis Rd., 416-241-8433.

ANDREA’S GERRARD STREET BAKERY

BAKER AND SCONE

The main draw at Sandra Katsiou’s bakery is her encyclopedic menu of scones, which come in an unbelievable 50 flavour combinations. Traditionalists will find their standard lemon-currant and cheddar-dill-chive varieties, but there are also less conventional options, like chai-latte spice and orange-date-cardamom. Each scone comes with a pat of sweet Stirling butter—or, for a little bit extra, a side of house-made lemon curd.

693 St. Clair Ave. W., 416-657-2663.

BAKERBOTS BAKING

Celena and Richard Cambridge have tucked a smart bakery into an otherwise desolate block of the Danforth (much appreciated by the families nearby). Rosemary-raisin bread tastes even better slathered with butter, and house-made cranberry and mango chutneys go well with a crusty baguette. A lunch menu includes pizza, sandwiches and meat pies. Closed Monday.

2036 Danforth Ave., 416-425-2895.

CLIFFSIDE HEARTH BREAD COMPANY

Since transitioning from a backyard brick-oven operation to a proper shop six-and-a-half years ago, this Scarborough bakery has become an east-side institution thanks to its eclectic selection of handmade loaves. Using a fermentation process comparable to that of a craft brewery, Cliffside Hearth offsets their baguettes and sourdough ryes with atypical flavours like roasted red onion–walnut and (on weekends) their chocolate-cherry levain, which gloriously fudges the line between breakfast and dessert. 3047 Kingston Rd., 416-261-1010.

Andrea Mut’s bakery is a must-visit for fresh espresso and superb pastries. She beautifully refines the classic butter tart, supplanting corn syrup with maple to create a creamy, luxurious centre. Mut also makes meat pies, empanadas and, during the Christmas season, traditional Quebec tourtière. 635 Gerrard St. E., 416-465-4567.

Rosanne Pezzelli was an illustrator and painter before she studied pastry at George Brown and sugar at the French Culinary Institute in New York. Her education is evident in every wildly detailed cake she creates. For one boy’s birthday, she crafted a Fender Telecaster out of cake and pastillage, with different gauges of florist’s wire for the strings. 205 Delaware Ave., 416- 901-3500.

DESMOND AND BEATRICE

BAKE CODE

BLACKBIRD BAKING COMPANY

DUFFLET PASTRIES

At the Taiwanese franchise Bake Code, Chinatown staples are given a mod makeover, like the bakery’s croissants in matcha, Thai milk and salted egg yolk varieties. They also bake 100 different breads and desserts on-site. 4910 Yonge St., No. 100, 647-346-3888.

Inside a stripped-down Kensington shop, there’s alchemy at work. Baker-owner Simon Blackwell creates exquisite baguettes: crispy on the outside with just the right amount of toast, and bubbly inside with a faintly sweet crumb. Pecorino focaccia is baked with fresh rosemary, parsley and sea

64 toronto life Eating and Drinking 2018

Co-owner Amanda Mizen rotates cupcake flavours daily, including classic red velvet, peanut butter and chocolate, cookies and cream, and caramel coffee. The brownie chocolate chip cookie is a devilish compromise for the indecisive customer— a whole brownie is baked right into the dough.

388 Carlaw Ave., No. 206, 647-352-1463.

In 2015, Dufflet celebrated 40 years of indulging Toronto’s sweet tooth. The vanilla buttercream birthday cake is a popular purchase even among those who aren’t celebrating anything, but Dufflet is always willing to whip up something special for those who are: while in town filming Suicide Squad,

photograph courtesy of cxbo

CXBO

food shops

Will Smith surprised co-star Adewale AkinnuoyeAgbaje on his birthday with one of the shop’s chocolate-covered cakes. 787 Queen St. W., 416504-2870; plus two other GTA locations.

ELM HILL COOKIES

Janis Smith’s charming Oakville shop is devoted to doughy cookies. Her creations are simple, classic and delicious, demonstrating fanatical attention to detail and devotion to natural ingredients.

Our latest favourite is the autumnal carrotpumpkin whoopie pie with gooey-but-not-toosweet cream cheese icing. Closed Sunday and Monday. 250 Kerr St., Oakville, 905- 582-7400.

EPI BREADS

This 12-year-old shop bakes excellent breads and pastries to go with the meat and cheese available on Bayview’s gourmet row. The miche is a huge rye and whole wheat loaf made from a medieval recipe—at three times the size of a typical loaf, it’s often bought by the half. Pre-made meals, such as boeuf bourguignon and shepherd’s pie, are popular with regulars. 1526 Bayview Ave., 416-488- 1952.

FORNO CULTURA

An architect by trade and a baker by heritage, Andrea Mastrandrea opened a King West bakery that marries the two disciplines well: authentic Italian biscotti and breads churned out in a spare, light-filled space. Paninis and crackle-crusted loaves are available on weekdays. Modern touches include chewy gluten-free cocoa and ground hazelnut cookies and weirdly delicious chocolate– olive oil cakes. 609 King St. W., 416-603-8305; plus two other GTA locations.

GLORY HOLE DOUGHNUTS

Ashley Jacot De Boinod worked as a sous–pastry chef at elegant restaurants like Buca and Scaramouche before she crowdfunded enough money on Indiegogo to open her Parkdale doughnut shop in 2012. She turns out addictive flavours like London fog, maple-bourbon-bacon, peanut butter and jam, pumpkin spice, and toast and butter. 1596 Queen St. W., 647- 352-4848.

HOME BAKING CO.

Bakerbots co-owner Christopher Stopa opened a farmhouse-style bakery and ice cream parlour at Bloor and Lansdowne, where almost everything in the place—triple-tiered carrot cake, chocolatey sea-salt brownies—is made with family recipes.

Stopa also borrowed a thing or two from his first successful baking business, including its rotating ice cream flavours (burnt marshmallow, French mint), which can be ordered by the cup or, even better, pressed between a pair of chewy cookies.

1242 Bloor St. W., 647-350-3400.

JELLY MODERN DOUGHNUTS

The fluffy deep-fried rings at this Calgary import are as wide as Frisbees, their centres filled with chocolate, marshmallow, maple-bacon or lemon curd. The College Street showroom doesn’t have a freezer, so the goods are always fresh, and organic and local ingredients are used as much as possible.

A mid-fall pumpkin doughnut, for example, is filled with tiramisù and mascarpone and topped with a pumpkin-bourbon glaze. Closed Monday.

376 College St., 416-962-2053.

KITTEN AND THE BEAR

In their teeny-tiny Parkdale tea room, husbandand-wife team Sophie Kaftal and Bobby Zielinski make small-batch jams, jellies and marmalades in dreamy flavours like banana-bourbon-vanillabean and strawberry-raspberry-cream. The preserves are best sampled in a Dowager Countess–worthy tea service ($17.50), which includes four spreads, a fluffy buttermilk scone, clotted cream and your choice of Sloane loose-leaf teas. 1574 Queen St. W., 647- 926- 9711.

LEAH’S

PIEGUS EUROPEAN BAKERY

LUCULLUS

PRAIRIE BOY BREAD

Leah Kalish’s corner shop is laden with decadent sweets that cater to the inner child. Homespun desserts include sticky pecan buns, gooey butter tarts and chocolate–peanut butter Rice Krispies squares.

Capitalizing on the salty-sweet trend, chewy Kitchen Sink cookies are packed with M&Ms, butterscotch chips, potato chips and pretzels. Closed Monday. 621 St. Clair Ave. W., 416- 785- 4711.

For the past 27 years, Markham and Richmond Hill residents have been shopping at Lucullus for excellent buns, baos and flaky egg tarts with Hong Kong–style milk tea. 7750 Kennedy Rd., Unit 2-2A, Markham, 905-513-1188, plus two other GTA locations.

MABEL’S BAKERY

Lorraine Hawley offers homestyle desserts like chocolate buttercream cakes, peanut butter– fudge sandwich cookies and pie. A variety of multi-grain breads and spelt, K2 rye and sourdough loaves are delivered to Queen West daily from the original Roncesvalles bakery.

1156 Queen St. W., 647- 748-4700; plus three other GTA locations.

MILLIE PÂTISSERIE

Owner Christinn Hua’s pâtisserie is a bakery and creamery in one, the display cases loaded with freshly made gelato, cheese tarts, Japanese pudding cups and Hua’s signature mille-crêpe cake in many tempting flavours (though we say go for tiramisù). 12 Oxley St., No. 101, 416-596-0063; 8321 Kennedy Rd., Unit 1065, Markham, 905-604-8066.

MON K PÂTISSERIE

Trained in Toronto, France and Osaka, baker Ryosuke Kita produces adventurous treats with seasonal fillings, like delicious strawberry mille feuilles and puff pastry filled with figs. Traditionalists will be happy with the above-average standards, like quiche, crème caramel, baguettes and macarons. 1040 Coxwell Ave., 416-696-8181.

NADÈGE PÂTISSERIE

At Nadège Nourian’s PATH pâtisserie, daytime tower dwellers can find all the stuff that’s made her other two shops such a success: sweet and savoury pastries, sandwiches and rows of multi-coloured macarons. Le Soleil d’Automne, made with passion fruit and mango mousse, kumquat marmalade, coconut mousse and almond shortbread, is popular for a reason. PATH, Richmond Adelaide Centre, 416350-2014; plus three other GTA locations.

NU BÜGEL

This Kensington Market bakery boils its bagels in honey water and bakes them in a custom-built wood-burning oven that gets stoked at first light and burns until nightfall. The bagels have glossy crusts and smoky insides, with just the right amount of chew. 240 Augusta Ave., 647- 748-4488.

OMG BAKED GOODNESS

Lesley Mattina’s bakery is tiny, but the pastries are worth taking to go. The gluten-free cinnamon chocolate chip cookie is a highlight, with just enough warm spice to complement the gooey bitter chocolate. Mattina’s maple tart is one of the city’s best, with a dense, fudgy interior nestled in a flaky, golden crust. Closed Monday in the summer. 1561 Dundas St. W., 647-348-5664.

PATCHMON’S THAI DESSERTS AND MORE

Toronto’s first traditional Thai dessert shop turns out trays of vibrant sweets and savoury snacks.

Most of the sugary treats are steamed, rather than baked, and made from a combo of chicken eggs and duck eggs, coconut cream, coconut flesh, rice and tapioca flours, palm sugar and mung beans.

2463 Bloor St. W., 647- 882- 5250.

The doughnuts here are phenomenal: plump pillows of dough light on oil but heavy on flavour, filled with plum jam or cheese, then finished with powdered sugar or icing. This is also the place for European cheesecakes and some of Toronto’s best rye breads. There are 10 varieties, flecked with caraway, onions or raisins. Closed Sunday and Monday. 3478 Lawrence Ave. E., 416-431-6081.

After two years of operating a wholesale bakery out of I Deal Coffee on Sorauren, the operation outgrew its square footage. At the new space, owner Grant MacPherson bakes organic sourdough made from Ontario wheat produced by K2 Milling in Beeton. In addition to hearty boules packed with grains and seeds, they also sell more indulgent loaves, like the cinnamon-raisin weekend special. Sandwiches are also on offer, along with spreads (like vegan Nutella) for the bread.

970 College St., 416-531-1211.

PRAIRIE GIRL BAKERY

The Prairie girl in question is Saskatchewan-born Jean Blacklock, who delivers the quality of a top pâtisserie with the efficiency of a Tim Hortons at her Financial District bakery. Cupcakes come in combinations like vanilla cake with tangy chocolate–cream cheese icing and banana cake with peanut butter icing. Closed Sunday. 18 King St. E., Unit 106, 416-504-2253; plus two other GTA locations.

RAHIER PÂTISSERIE

Francophones rival Anglos in attendance at this Belgian pâtisserie in Leaside, where owner-baker François Rahier’s tarts, mousses and cookies dazzle. His legendary flaky croissants sometimes sell out before noon, with brioche and focaccia not far behind. Quiche and baguette sandwiches are also popular picks. 1586 Bayview Ave., 416-482-0917.

ROSELLE DESSERTS

Stephanie Duong and Bruce Lee honed their skills in Paris and Hong Kong before gracing Corktown with their calorific creations: banana cream pie éclairs; canelés, earl grey shortbread cookie-andcream sandwiches; fresh madeleines with lemon or raspberry glaze, and sea salt caramels made with Stirling butter. 362 King St. E., 416- 368- 8188.

ROSEN’S CINNAMON BUNS

The owner of this pretty little bakery, food writer Amy Rosen, doesn’t go the Sweet Jesus route of extreme eats; the small-batch cinnamon buns baked here are classic—and really, really good. The fluffy bun is filled with just enough cinnamon stuff and lightly glazed not buried under a gloopy mountain of icing. Cut in half and filled with Chapman’s vanilla ice cream, the Bunwich is a virtual trip to the CNE. 825 College St., 416-534-2856.

SHIRINI SARA PASTRY HOUSE

This bakery makes homestyle Persian sweets.

Baghlawa is different from the Greek incarnation—it’s nuttier, less syrupy-sweet and redolent of cardamom. Don’t miss the ambrosial cream horns (coiled puff pastry filled with whipped cream) or the macaroons in almond, walnut and coconut. 1875 Leslie St., Unit 6, 416-510-1050.

ST. JOHN’S BAKERY

The professional bakers at this sunny, flourdusted, non-profit enterprise in the east, oversee single parents, people new to the country, and those struggling with mental illness, living with disabilities or wanting to learn a trade. Handmade loaves include 14 kinds of sourdough and olive-cilantro boules. Wild Quebec blueberry scones and pumpkin cranberry scones are light, fluffy and moist.

153 Broadview Ave., 416-850-7413.

Eating and Drinking 2018 toronto life 65

SUD FORNO

Fabio Papa, the head baker at Terroni’s bakery, greets customers at his Queen West location warmly as he stacks loaves of bread alongside the display case loaded with bombolini, cannoli and biscottini. The sourdough is wonderfully crusty and chewy, and the pizzas are piled with toppings like homemade ’nduja sausage. 716 Queen St. W., 416-504-7667; 132 Yonge St., 416-955-1100.

SUgaR lOaF bakeRy

The display case at this “non-tradition artisanal bakery” is a U.N. summit of baking traditions, where chewy Brazilian pão de queijo and chocolate brigadeiros rest alongside braided challahs, French pain de campagne and custard-filled beignets.

Brunch is a big hit on weekends, when the menu expands to include croque madame sandwiches, buckwheat galettes, Dutch Baby pancakes and a prix fixe option that includes bottomless coffee, an entrée and dessert. 729 Queen St. E., 647-847-6122; 1062 Gerrard St. E., 647-341-9383.

THe TeMPeReD ROOM

Owner and executive chef Bertrand Alépée worked in Paris with Michelin-starred chefs Guy Savoy and Alain Ducasse before settling in Toronto. At his two-storey Parkdale palace, the mousse cakes, tarts, croissants, custard-filled pastries and flaky éclairs are temptingly displayed in glass cases.

There are lots of savoury items, too, like jalapeño cornbread and cheesy croque monsieur sandwiches. 1374 Queen St. W., 416-546-4374.

THObORS

Parisian-born Marc and Sylvie Thobor’s cheery spot greets patrons with an intoxicating buttery aroma. Baguettes and seven-grain bread are specialties. Scrumptious pastries feature just about everything in the French canon, including croissants, macarons and the seasonal bûche de Noël.

627 Mount Pleasant Rd., 416-544-1733; plus two other GTA locations.

TORI’S bakeSHOP

Victoria Vaccher creates homespun baked goods so exceptional that you probably won’t notice their lack of dairy, eggs and, in many cases, gluten and

Top Five

sugar. Beach locals devour the cinnamon buns, chewy dark chocolate brownies, flaky butter tarts made with coconut milk, and chocolatey cupcakes topped with mountainous coifs of icing. Closed Monday. 2188 Queen St. E., 647-350-6500; 430 Front St. E., 647-350-6500.

VON DOUgHNUTS

The doughnuts at Von come in two basic varieties—cake and yeast-raised—but the flavour profiles are anything but ordinary. They range from classy (crème brûlée) to creative (peanut butter and dark chocolate with maple glaze and crispy bacon). Several confections are infused with booze, including one spiked with a red sangria glaze. 713 Danforth Ave., 416-901-8663.

yUMMy STUFF

Parents stopping in to pick up a child’s birthday cake—festooned with sugar-cookie giraffes and elephants—often devour buttery mini-cupcakes while they wait. Other treats include massive coconut macaroons, elaborately decorated cookies, buttery shortbreads and, at Christmas, Nutella-filled Linzer cookies. Closed Monday.

1660 Queen St. W., 416-531-9732.

cottage pie, fresh salads, locally made kombucha and big, beautiful panini—grilled à la minute.

171 East Liberty Street, Unit 155, 647-349-4911.

blaCk aNgUS FINe MeaTS aND gaMe

The vast selection of farmed and wild game at this tucked-away shop in a business centre includes protein-rich crocodile from Australia and farmraised elk and bison from western Canada. Currently in stock: kangaroo—the leanest meat on the planet. 360 Revus Ave., Unit 10, Mississauga, 905-271-2333.

blOOR MeaT MaRkeT

Everything edible you need for a backyard barbecue is available at the family butcher run by siblings Edward, Robert, Catherine and Elaine Oravec. For grill masters, there’s Grade AAA New York strip loins, naturally raised Mennonite chickens and organic Irish salmon. Closed Monday. 2283 Bloor St. W., 416-767-2105.

THe bUTCHeR’S SON

BUTCHeRS

This inviting food shop is a joint venture between Matthew Kumprey and Vito Rizzuto, owner of the Italian restaurant Five Doors North. Standouts include beautifully marbled P.E.I. beef and ethically raised Ontario pork, veal, chicken and lamb.

2055 Yonge St., 416-901-9414.

baRQUe bUTCHeR baR

CÔTe De bOeUF

This spinoff of the Roncey smokehouse Barque is a butcher shop by day and a snack bar by night. Prepared meats (chicken, ribs, brisket, sausages, bacon, burgers), salads to go, and pre-portioned spice samples are available day and night. In the evening, the focus is on platters piled with brisket, ribs, sausages, pulled pork and more.

287 Roncesvalles Ave., 416-532-7700.

beSPOke bUTCHeRS

Specializing in custom dry aging, marinating and brining, the butchers in this Liberty Village meat market work with a select group of farmers who provide them with ethically raised meat. The small shop is crammed with 14 kinds of sausage, a variety of cheeses, salumi, Blackbird Bakery breads, jars of duck fat, frozen fish from Hooked, tourtière,

Teo Paul, the chef at the farm-to-table bistro Union, opened this butcher shop in 2013 with his brother, Chasen Gillies. It’s a high-end boutique for carnivores, with glistening foie gras pâtés, spatchcocked chickens and house-made lamb sausages displayed in quaint reclaimed kitchen cabinets turned into refrigerators. 130 Ossington Ave., 416-532-2333.

CUMbRae’S

Owner Stephen Alexander is often on the farm, working with breeders to produce the finest naturally raised meat for exacting chefs and ethical carnivores. Each location is equipped with an exquisite dry-aging room, and the Queen West boutique is blessed with a French rotisserie oven.

714 Queen St. W., 416-681-1111; plus two other GTA locations and one in Dundas, Ontario.

Doughnuts

From our June issue, the city’s best doughnuts, crullers and custard-filled confections

emma’s Country kitchen’s Crunchie Doughnut This brunch hot spot makes the city’s best doughnuts. (In fact, Emma’s co-owner Rachel Pellett once competed on the reality series Donut Showdown and won.)

We’re partial to her Crunchieinspired creation, a chocolatedipped doughnut topped with meltin-your-mouth shards of sponge toffee. $3. 810 St. Clair Ave. W., 416-652-3662.

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glory Hole’s buttered Toast Doughnut Breakfast will never be the same after a bite of Glory Hole’s signature toast-and-butter creation. It’s topped with brown-butter frosting, a skiff of cinnamon and a smattering of sweet bread crumbs. $3.50.

1596 Queen St. W., 647-352-4848.

photographs by vicky lam

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food shops GOURMEATS

Co-owner Alam Suleman has devised a novel system for selling his natural, grass-fed meats: the chalkboard is divided into 17 sections, each listing a house-made marinade and how to best use it.

Choose your marinade and your protein, and Suleman will vacuum-seal the two together for you to bring home and cook. He also stocks housemade chutneys and hot sauces. Closed Monday.

2946 Dundas St. W., 416-824-8848.

GRACE MEAT MARKET

Stuffed tighter than one of its homemade sausages, Little Italy’s best butcher shop overflows with pastas, spices, sauces and cheeses. But the main attraction is still the beef, including countless steaks and old-world cuts, like shanks carved into fleshy discs perfect for osso buco. 644 College St., 416-534-7776.

THE HEALTHY BUTCHER

Toronto carnivores have become more and more demanding about knowing the wheres, whys and hows of their meats. The Healthy Butcher stocks only natural and organic products. The store radiates integrity, from the grass-fed beef to the certified organic chickens. 565 Queen St. W., 416674-2642; 298 Eglinton Ave. W., 416-674-2642.

MEDIUM RARE

The narrow space carries more than 70 different sausages (the chicken curry–apricot is outstanding), a variety of meat pies and four house-made barbecue sauces. The extensive selection of game will tempt the adventurous carnivore, but the beef, dry-aged between 30 and 60 days, is the real showstopper. Closed Monday. 10 Burnhamthorpe Rd., 416-231-1500.

OLLIFFE

The prices at Rosedale’s top butcher shop are exorbitant, but the quality is superb. Forsythe Family Farms lamb leg, Tamshire pork, chantecler chicken and dry-aged Ontario prime-grade beef are just a few of the elite meats on offer. A Perth County pasture-raised pork chop has exquisitely marbled flesh. 1097A Yonge St., 416-928-0296; plus two other GTA locations.

PARAMOUNT BUTCHER SHOP

At this large halal market in Mississauga, staff provide service in five languages (English, Arabic, Turkish, Albanian, Croatian) and greet customers with complimentary Turkish coffee. Owner Mohamad Fakih visits every supplier to ensure slaughter practices adhere to halal edicts. The windowed dry-aging room shows off sides of beef, and cooks can marinate meat for customers.

4646 Heritage Hills Blvd., Mississauga, 905-890-1700.

ROAST

Ben Latchford opened his St. Clair West butcher after spending 20 years working at Olliffe in Rosedale. Among the treasures in his shop: marbled, grass-fed strip loins; thick-cut Berkshire chops and herb-marinated pork medallions, all of which can be dry-rubbed or marinated on request.

Latchford also holds wine tastings the last Saturday of every month. 786 St. Clair Ave. W., 416-657-6278.

ROYAL BEEF

As the name suggests, beef is the draw at Carmen Estrela’s shop, where hanger and tri-tip steaks from local farms are aged in-house. Plump chickens and succulent ribs draw the grill jockeys, as do additive-, gluten- and preservative-free housemade sausages and burgers. Closed Monday.

1968 Danforth Ave., 416-421-1029.

SANAGAN’S MEAT LOCKER

Peter Sanagan’s Kensington shop may be the best butcher shop in the city, period. Sanagan carries a vast selection of hormone- and antibiotic-free, locally sourced and well-priced beef, pork, lamb and chicken, but it’s his array of offal and exotic meats, like boar (and elk and venison on occasion) that raises him to a level of excellence. 176 Baldwin St., 416-593-9747.

WHEN THE PIG CAME HOME

At his Junction shop, chef-owner Ryan Gatner puts his spin on deli classics: killer Montreal-style smoked meat is P.E.I. beef cheek, not brisket; freerange chicken is jerked; Duroc pig is rolled and roasted into succulent, crackled porchetta, worth every ounce of fat; boar is house-smoked into bacon

and guanciale, and duck is confit. At the marble cash counter, bags of truffled potato chips and house-made pork rinds; on the wall, a menu of custom sandwiches, designed and named after regulars. 3035 Dundas St. W., 647-345-9001.

WHITE HOUSE MEATS

The winning formula at this reputable uptown butcher is the top-notch meat and down-home service. There’s incredible variety in game meats and birds (ostrich, kangaroo, camel and wild boar, for example). For more traditional tastes, there’s naturally raised Norpac beef, naturally raised (and freerun and air-chilled) King Capon chickens, and Mennonite-raised Hoffnung lamb. 1523 Bayview Ave., 416-488-2004; 2978 Bloor St. W., 416-231-5004.

CHEESEMONGERS CHEESE BOUTIQUE

No one ages cheese better than the Pristine family, which is why so many of their products appear on menus around the city. The current big sellers are the springy, creamy burrata and 10-year-aged cheddar. This is also the place to find fresh truffles from Italy and Spanish marcona almonds.

45 Ripley Ave., 416-762-6292.

CHEESE EMPORIUM

Spacious and organized, the Cheese Emporium is a calming antidote to the city’s other claustrophobic fromageries. Quebec finds, such as a 12-year-aged cheddar, are sold alongside offerings from France, Italy, Germany and Spain.

Staff impress with their knowledge of unique treasures—a gruyère cheese aged in the Swiss Kaltbach caves, for example. 245 Eglinton Ave. E., 416-440-1462; 479 Danforth Ave., 416-789-3300.

CHEESE MAGIC

Friendly staff help navigate the 200 or so cheeses at this Kensington shop. The U.K. is well represented, with Irish Guinness cheddar and an English red lion cheese made with ale and mustard seeds. Raw milk fans will find Dutch Beemster, French Morbier and Le Baluchon from Quebec. 182 Baldwin St., 416-593-9531.

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White Lily Diner’s Chocolate Dip Doughnut The petite doughnuts here range from classic (maple dip) to contemporary (vanilla chai). The chocolate dip, with an airy dough and just enough dark chocolate ganache to satisfy a sweet tooth, is our favourite. $4.50 for two. 678 Queen St. E., 416-901-7800.

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Bar Raval’s Crema Catalana Doughnut Doughnuts don’t spring to mind when we think of Catalan cuisine. Crema catalana, however, is one of its specialties, and Bar Raval honours the dessert with a ball of dough filled with lightly sweet custard. $4.

505 College St., no phone.

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Von Doughnuts’s Blueberry-Lime Streusel These yeasted rounds are among the puffiest in town. The crème brûlée is Von’s top seller, but our pick is the blueberry-lime streusel for its fine balance between classic construction and gonzo excess. $2.85.

713 Danforth Ave., 416-901-8663.

Eating and Drinking 2018 toronto life 67

QUALITY CHEESE

Part cheese shop, part factory, this fromagerie produces more than 20 mostly European-style cheeses for wholesale and retail (their clients include Loblaws and Whole Foods). Burrata is made fresh Monday to Friday. Other standouts include the shop’s own award-winning buffalo mozzarella and ricotta (available at restaurants like Buca). Closed Sunday. 111 Jevlan Dr., Vaughan, 905- 265-9991.

HOT SpOT

THIN BLUE LINE CHEESE

The selection at this tiny Roncesvalles shop occupies just two display fridges. There’s a heavy emphasis on Canadian varieties, including gooey triple-cream Riopelle brie, stinky Celtic Blue from Glengarry Fine Cheese and several sharp Quebec cheddars. 93 Roncesvalles Ave., 416-840-6966.

CHOCOLATIERS AMBIANCE

Owners Patrick Smets and Beata Brutovska construct gorgeous truffles from scratch using Michel Cluizel or Valrhona chocolate as a base. Each bite packs complex flavours: a cherry hides in a shell of tobacco-scented chocolate, and a dark chocolate caramel is flavoured with rose essence. Closed Monday. 683 Mount Pleasant Rd., 416-406-2462.

CXBO

At his small workspace in Kensington Market, ex–Bar Isabel chef Brandon Olsen turns out smallbatch filled chocolates in flavours like limeginger-black-pepper, raspberry-rose-fennel and yuzu sake. His colourful handmade bonbons sold in hand-painted boxes are (almost) too pretty to eat. 193 Baldwin St., 416-588-2926.

DELIGHT

Husband-and-wife team Jeff Brown and Jennifer Rashleigh make fair-trade, organic chocolates and super-rich ice cream. For the dairy-averse, there’s a vegan sorbet and truffles in flavours like toasted hazelnut and smoked sea salt–caramel chocolate.

3040 Dundas St. W., 416-760-9995.

Adrian Zgeb and Luke Champion’s licensed fromagerie—yes, you can drink while you shop—on Gerrard East is equal parts cheese shop and date spot (page 68).

GLOBAL CHEESE

A reno transformed the Kensington stalwart some time ago, but its near-encyclopedic selection remains intact, offering novel concoctions like Wensleydale laced with apples and pears, and aged cheddar studded with caramelized onions.

76 Kensington Ave., 416-593-9251.

GOOD CHEESE

This east-end fromagerie is equal parts cheese shop and date spot. Owners Adrian Zgeb and Luke Champion bring in a well-chosen selection of local and international cheeses, including the impossibly red Rose Tomate from France, with notes of smoked meat. A rotating drinks list includes beers, like a briny oyster stout from Germany, available by the bottle, and wine in three- or five-ounce pours. There’s a short menu of snacks to pick from, too. For the indecisive, two daily pairings do the work for you. 614 Gerrard St. E., 416-285-8482.

JUNCTION FROMAGERIE

Among the 50-odd varieties, you’ll find the usual suspects, like Niagara Gold and Quebec raw sheep’s milk cheese, as well as lesser-known cheeses like Le Bleu d’Élizabeth, made in Quebec from organic unpasteurized cow’s milk.

3042 Dundas St. W., 647-344-8663.

LESLIEVILLE CHEESE MARKET AND FINE FOODS

The selection here is well-rounded, with a good mix of local (Lindsay cloth-bound cheddar) and international (Délice de Bourgogne triple-cream brie). The staff offer samples for self-education. The shop also stocks Epi Breads and a selection of charcuterie, like Westphalian ham. 891 Queen St. E., 416465-7143; 10 Sydenham St., Flesherton, 519-924-9900.

NANCY’S CHEESE

The small Dupont Street space is a bright setting for Nancy Peppler’s shop—and conveniently located close to the LCBO. The primarily Canadian stock is perfect for neophytes intimidated by larger selections. It may include such gems as a bandaged goat cheese from Lindsay, Ontario. Closed Monday. 260 Dupont St., 647-343-0315.

THE PANTRY

Since opening at the eastern edge of Little India, owner Jeremy Lago has kept his focus on 50 awardwinning—and sometimes hard-to-find—Canadian cheeses crafted by artisans who know where their milk comes from, including fresh and squeaky cheese curds from Gunns Hill in Woodstock. He also stocks charcuterie, small-batch preserves, delicacies from Quebec (like a killer maple-blueberry rabbit terrine) and honey from his own brother’s farm. 1620 Gerrard St. E., 647-341-6099.

68 toronto life Eating and Drinking 2018

MAISONETTE

Toronto chocolatier Laura Slack is known for her beautiful but unconventional creations (her most famous treat is a shiny, black chocolate skull filled with black garlic–infused caramel). After hawking her goods at fancy shops like McEwan and Holt Renfrew, Slack opened Maisonette, a very charming retail store in the Distillery District, where she sells gleaming truffles, artfully wrapped chocolate bars and chocolate-dipped bacon toffee. 12 Tank House Ln.,416-618-6041.

SOMA CHOCOLATEMAKER

The cacao beans at Soma are sourced by owners David Castellan and Cynthia Leung, hand-sorted by their team and roasted by Castellan before being turned into a unique microbatch like the 70 per cent Venezuelan Porcelan chocolate with notes of cream, cashews and red berries. In winter, the chili-spiked Maya hot chocolate is one of the city’s most core-warming treats. 443 King St. W., 416-599-7662; 32 Tank House Ln., 416-815-7662.

SOUL CHOCOLATE

Cafes are among the first signs of neighbourhood revitalization, and there are plenty popping up along Gerrard East these days. But only one produces its own artisanal chocolate bars. The tiny shop’s coffee counter is an ideal stop-in for a sip of something single-origin, paired with a dark chocolate bar made from beans sourced from Madagascar (fruity), Tanzania (creamy, with ripe banana flavour) or the Dominican (salty, with fleur de sel), and packaged in colourful custom-designed wrappers. 583 Gerrard St. E., 416-460-7551.

photograph by dave gillespie

GOOD CHEESE

food shops

COFFEE BAddies

where diners want to nosh on breakfast wraps and smoked trout–topped Gryfe’s bagels. 1024 Queen St. W., 647-351-6366.

Flat white–sipping kids kick back on the bleachers at this minimalist Aussie-inspired nook. Though the coffee is exclusively Canadian roasted, the brekkie options are straight from Down Under: smashed avocado on sourdough comes with heirloom beet labneh, roasted sweet potato, pickled candy cane beets, arugula, microgreens and sunflower seeds. 679 Lansdowne Ave., no phone.

CAPitAL esPresso

BALZAC’s Coffee roAsters

CHerrY BoMB Coffee

The elder statesman of indie coffee shops is a classic café tableau of exposed brick, local art and a Simonelli espresso machine. The coffee remains among the least expensive around: $2.50 for espresso and $3.45 for cappuccino. 1 Trinity St., 416-207-1709; plus five other GTA locations.

BoXCAr soCiAL

The guys at Boxcar Social keep Summerhill (and Riverside, Harbourfront and the Financial District) residents both caffeinated and tipsy with flights of coffee or whiskey (or flights of both). A small snack menu includes charcuterie boards. 1208 Yonge St., 416-792-5873; plus three other GTA locations.

CAfÉ NeoN

This Queen West café suffers from seasonal Jekylland-Hyde syndrome. In summer, the garage door opens, creating an ersatz patio, and the back room transforms into a coveted spot for pulled pork eggs Benny. Come winter, the same space is a bit drafty, with little natural light. Acid-trippy art in DayGlo hues adds brightness, but the cheery front room is

The fresh coffee, rotating roster of muffins and beloved staff have made Capital Espresso a favourite in an area that needs more coffee like it needs more tattoos and beards. Young moms and freelancers head to the space—with its huge windows overlooking Queen West—to linger over a pulledto-perfection latte. 1349 Queen St. W., no phone.

Weekend lineups are a ritual at Cherry Bomb, where hungover 20-somethings and parents crowd outside the Roncesvalles café for handcranked Americanos and flaky croissants. From the selection of beans, our favourites are the Cherry Bomb blend, a nutty and sweet medium roast, and the Spitfire, a smooth dark roast. Cash only. 79 Roncesvalles Ave., 416-516-8212.

diNeeN Coffee Co.

At the coffee shop in the restored Dineen building downtown, a tin ceiling soars dozens of feet overhead, ricocheting the cacophonous voices of sippers below. Servers brew deluxe versions of the usual coffee drinks—mocha made with chocolate ganache, custom espresso roasts—as well as delightful oddities like roasted almond tea.

140 Yonge St., 416-900-0949; 199 Bay St., 416-900-0952.

eArLY Bird Coffee ANd KitCHeN

It’s not as though Queen West desperately needed another exposed-brick, fancy-brew coffee shop.

But Early Bird is a great one, with the requisite artisanally roasted beans, from Canada and abroad, and a communal work table near the front windows. Bonuses: brunch and a license to serve booze. 613 Queen St. W., 647-348-2473.

eLLA’s UNCLe

The black-and-white linoleum floor, red leather counter stools and smell of baking banana bread make the tiny, sun-dappled room feel as warm and inviting as your grandma’s kitchen. A friendly, aproned barista-baker whips up frothy lattes and oven-fresh goodies while singing along to the Stones’s “Ruby Tuesday.” 916 Dundas St. W., 416- 703-8881; 899 Bloor St. W., 416-530-0222.

eXtrA BUtter

The cozy shop has five tables, a cool art-deco aesthetic and a collection of covetable Italian vintage chairs. In addition to standard espresso beverages, the café turns out an enticing lineup of house-made pastries, including a savoury spin on the cinnamon roll, stuffed with prosciutto, cheese and maple-mustard sauce. On the musttry list: Bulletproof, an experimental concoction of coffee, coconut oil and butter. 283 Roncesvalles Ave., 647-340-7791.

fAHreNHeit Coffee

The hyperactive service at this downtown café is matched by excellent espresso drinks, made from Pilot beans roasted in Leslieville. Owner Sameer Mohamed can often be found swapping arcana with fellow bean devotees, and the soundtrack veers between pulsing techno beats, salsa and ’90s classics. 120 Lombard St., 647-896-1774.

Eating and Drinking 2018 toronto life 69

Since opening, this Roncesvalles café’s become a freelancer favourite thanks to its well-priced menu and breezy reggae soundtrack. Owner Bryan Sherry is fanatical about sourcing locally: he starts every morning driving across town to pick up his meats (Sanagan’s), buns (Blackbird Baking Co.), bagels (St. Urbain) and cookies (Home Baking Co.). 478 Roncesvalles Ave., 647348-8880.

HALE COFFEE

Last year, this Ryerson student–started venture outgrew its modest digs and decamped to the Junction Triangle, taking over a unit on the ground floor of the Clock Factory. The directly traded beans are described with reverence by eager baristas who will talk at length about the espresso, for instance, which has a “navel orange” note to its profile. Baked goods are sourced from local bakeries, while sandwiches and soups are made in house.

300 Campbell Ave., 647-352-4253.

JET FUEL COFFEE

At Jet Fuel, a double shot of custom-roasted espresso is only $2—one of the reasons it’s Cabbagetown’s unrivalled coffee destination. The shop is a cacophonous mix of blaring tunes and brusque baristas brewing lattes, cappuccinos and Jet Fuels (a cross between the two). Don’t ask for decaf; they don’t have it. 519 Parliament St., 416968-9982.

JIMMY’S COFFEE

In keeping with the other locations, the shop at Bay and Gerrard offers a range of espresso-based beverages, plus pastries from local suppliers like Delysées and Circles and Squares. The space is bohemian and comfy, adorned with Persian rugs, pretty chandeliers and curio-filled bookcases.

84 Gerrard St. W., 416-792-1141; plus five other GTA locations.

MAMAN

This piece of Paris downtown wears many hats— bakery, café, bar—and provides nine-to-fivers in the Business District with their daily dose of caffeine, house-made croissants and savoury tarti-

Top FivE

nettes, post-work cocktails and glasses of bubbly, of course. First Canadian Place, 100 King St. W., Mezzanine Level, 416-216-6767.

beans, but the main draw at the Riverdale location is the view: families and dog walkers swarm to the 16-table patio with an unobstructed panorama of the park and the city’s skyline. 479 Broadview Ave.; 568 Jarvis St.; 343 King St. E.; 416-995-1530.

THE MERSEYSIDE

This Junction Triangle room could pass for an antique shop thanks to its century-old school desks and church pew seating. Todd Jang Delaney, a once-aspiring opera singer, gave up the stage for a spatula when he decided to dedicate himself to cooking. The menu at the Merseyside is a testament to his culinary chops: cubanos are made with slowroasted pork shoulder, sandwiches built on flaky burek. 2413 Dundas St. W., 647-679-3113.

SAM JAMES COFFEE BAR

When Sam James opened his Harbord Street shop in 2009, he inadvertently created the indie espresso blueprint. The formula has been mimicked all over town, but, as with most copies, the original wins every time. The espresso, pulled from a La Marzocco machine, is chocolatey bliss. 297 Harbord St., no phone; plus four other GTA locations.

ODIN CAFÉ AND BAR

THE SOVEREIGN

Thor Espresso’s little brother in the east end stays up late and likes to drink. There’s coffee from local roaster Pilot, but there’s also draft beer, including some from Left Field Brewery, and a selection of Niagara and P.E.C. wines. Foodbenders and the Empanada Company supply some of the more solid menu items. 514 King St. E., 647-350-6346.

PILOT COFFEE ROASTERS

The locals at Dufferin and Davenport must love The Sovereign—the neighbourhood isn’t exactly swimming in hangouts, especially places that serve up charm, plenty of space and a perfect Americano.

Manning the glowing Elektra Barlume, owners Ross, John and Anthony chat with customers while serving up house-made cookies. 3 Oakwood Ave., 1359 Davenport Rd.; 416-732-1220.

Andy Wilkin moved to Toronto from New Zealand, bringing with him his native country’s coffee mania. He founded a roasting business, which supplies dozens of espresso bars with his blends. He makes trips to Central America to establish direct trade relationships and adjusts the roasting process with each new batch of beans. 50 Wagstaff Dr., no phone; plus two other GTA locations.

RED ROCKET COFFEE

The coffee at this pretension-free shop packs a serious punch. A large version of the signature Red Rocket blends espresso, chocolate sauce and darkroast drip—three uppers in one cup. There are four house blends—Deep Space is dark, Lift Off is light, Red Phoenix is extra-dark and Zero Gravity is decaf—made with fair-trade organic beans from Oakville’s Reunion Island. 154 Wellesley St. E., 416- 640-1355; 1364 Danforth Ave., 416-406-0880.

ROOSTER COFFEE HOUSE

The menu features fresh sandwiches, French goodies and impeccably pulled espresso shots from Pilot

Chicken Sandwiches

From our May issue, birds on buns are Toronto’s juicy new obsession

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TOKYO SMOKE

Alan Gertner, a former Google manager, and his father, Lorne, who was a co-investor in the company that granted Canada’s first licence to grow medical marijuana more than 20 years ago, run the city’s swankiest head-shop café. Along with perfectly pulled espresso and Forno Cultura’s pastries, Tokyo Smoke also offers premium vaporizers like the PAX2, and branded candles made with local maker Brennan Michael—you’ll think you died and went to Amsterdam. 850B Adelaide St. W., no phone; plus two other GTA locations.

TEA BAMPOT

In Toronto, board-game cafés, once daringly niche, have become super-abundant. Modelled after a traditional Czech tea house, Bampot has more ambiance than the standard venue. Its beaded curtains, Moroccan tiles and rattan wall coverings seem designed to court a slightly earth-

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Bar Fancy’s Coco Bun Two years after its debut, it’s still hard to top this crave-worthy off-menu item. The chicken is drizzled with honey mustard and kewpie mayo under sweet house-made pickles on a coconut milk bun. $12. 1070 Queen St. W., 416-546-1416.

P.G Cluck’s Classic We’re obsessed with the one they call the Classic at this Little Italy cubbyhole. Juicy Nashville hot chicken gets its kick from a cayenneinfused paste before it’s layered onto a sweetpotato bun with tangy coleslaw, bread-and-butter pickles, buttermilk ranch dressing and fermented chili sauce. $7. 610 College St., 647-925-2226.

70 toronto life Eating and Drinking 2018

photographs by vicky lam

GLORIA

food shops

ier, free-spirited variety of gamer—the kind who likes to sip chai while plowing through an epic game of Settlers. 201 Harbord St., 416-537-5959.

EL ALMACEN YERBA MATÉ CAFÉ

Yerba maté is a strong loose-leaf tea packed with a stimulant called mateine. The South American drink is all about companionship—sippers drink it out of a communal gourd through a metal straw. At El Almacen, owners Silvio Rodriguez and Estela Velasco-Cortes are happy to teach Torontonians the ways of the gourd. 1078 Queen St. W., 416-516-2898.

HOUSE OF TEA

Owner Marisha Golla comes from a Sri Lankan teabroker family and possesses encyclopedic tea knowledge. At her Rosedale shop, she carries more than 300 loose-leaf varieties, many of which she imports herself. Rarities include Alishan oolong from Taiwan, African nettle and wok-toasted Chinese Big Red Robe. 1015 Yonge St., 416- 922-1226.

TEN REN’S TEA AND GINSENG CO.

The tea sets in this Chinatown room are works of art. Salespeople offer samples of Eight Treasures tea while providing a history of its health benefits. A chrysanthemum-based brew is nicely floral; apparently, it’s also good for the eyes and skin. 454 Dundas St. W., 416-598-7872; plus seven other GTA locations.

FISHMONGERS AVENUE SEAFOOD

Toronto’s most enthusiastic fishmonger is Avenue owner Winnie Shao, who bubbles with excitement about her shop’s high-quality marine offerings. Wild B.C. halibut is a favourite, as are chemical-free dry scallops. Organics dominate the display case, with salmon and Irish trout topping the list. They also dish out prepared food like fish and chips, lobster rolls and fish tacos. 1751 Avenue Rd., 416-783-2288.

CAVIAR CENTRE

This roe purveyor stocks the largest selection in Canada, including beluga, ostetra, whitefish, trout and lumpfish caviar. Closed Saturday and Sunday.

220 Duncan Mill Rd., Ste. A1, 416-441-9788.

DE LA MER

Roncesvalles’s resident fishmonger has the friendly atmosphere of an indie coffee shop, with outgoing counter staff and free lemons and dill with each purchase. Fresh fish comes from Lovell Springs in Port Dover: there’s halibut, black cod, Icelandic cod, trout and wild salmon. 291 Roncesvalles Ave., 647-649-3912; plus two other GTA locations.

DIANA’S SEAFOOD DELIGHT

Fifty-plus types of fish, including salmon, kingfish and skate, fill the display case. More than 60 types of oysters—from Ireland, Maine, France and Nova Scotia—impress bivalve connoisseurs. Live sea urchins, East Coast whelks and sashimi-grade geoduck clams are some of the more unusual items. 2101 Lawrence Ave. E., 416-288-9286.

HONEST WEIGHT

Three-time oyster-shucking national champion John Bil has spent the last decade helping others open their restaurants (including Montreal’s Bourdain-approved Joe Beef). His restaurant offers alternative takes on typical fish-shop menu items—like okonomiyaki, a savoury Japanese pancake; chowder; and a selection of oysters.

2766 Dundas St. W., 416-604-9992.

HOOKED

Navigating the selection at the city’s most sustainable fishmonger is a pleasure, whether it’s the whole sea bream on ice in the window or fillets of Pacific cod in the fridge, depending on the season.

The display fridge is only eight feet long, but is chock-full of whatever’s fresh. 206 Baldwin St., 416551-2755; plus three other GTA locations.

KRISTAPSONS

Alexis Fraser cures farmed Pacific salmon with a salt-sugar rub for 24 hours, then cold-smokes it over wood chips for another 24 hours. She sells it either hand-sliced or in whole sides, and supplies places like Pusateri’s. 1095 Queen St. E., 416466-5152; 3248 Yonge St., 416-489-3474.

PISCES GOURMET

It remains the most expensive fishmonger in the city, but the fish—skinless, boneless Lake Erie

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pickerel or gleaming Greek-farmed branzini, for example—is so fresh it’s practically still twitching. A basement kitchen helps amp up the prepared food selection, which includes crispy tempura shrimp, heavenly lobster bisque and fat, filler-free crab cakes. 1097 Yonge St., 416921-8888.

SNAPPERS FISH MARKET

Owner Laurie Hamilton is the quintessential local fishmonger, chatting with customers while scaling fillets. One side of her display counter is filled with fresh catches; the other contains smoked mackerel, trout, salmon roe and smoked Muskoka trout pâté. 263 Durie St., 416-767-4083.

YONGE SEAFOOD GOURMET

Proprietor Ian Wu and his wife, Jean, guide customers to the wild king salmon, sushi-grade bigeye tuna steaks, boneless Arctic char, wild shrimp and huge scallops in the front display case at their immaculate Yonge and Eg shop. Among the most popular items are cleaned and deveined farmed jumbo shrimp, P.E.I. Malpeque oysters, live mussels and littleneck clams from Eastern Canada.

2044 Yonge St., 416-546-7277.

GROCERY STORES GENERAL EAST OF YORK GOURMET FOOD CO.

In this 10-seat spot on the Danforth, Ashvin Gahani’s mom and auntie fill and fold hundreds of crispy, creative and delicious samosas, sandwiches and sweets. Flavours are East and West Indian, ingredients are local and seasonal, cooking is from scratch and flavour combinations are traditional and otherwise. To wit: Brussels sprouts and paneer, and buttermilk beef curry.

1904 Danforth Ave., 416-421-9990.

FIESTA FARMS

An indie alternative to the big chains, Fiesta draws in shoppers with its terrific selection of locally made and organic products. The roster includes crusty Ace Bakery bread, dainty Dufflet

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Gabardine’s Classic Fried Chicken Crunchy batter and supermoist bird meet sweet mayo, hot sauce, tangy dill pickles and crisp iceberg lettuce on a pillowy sesame seed bun. $20.

372 Bay St.,647-352-3211.

Brock Sandwich’s Spicy Chili Chicken Spicy chili sauce jacks up this delightfully messy concoction, which is finished with a heap of coleslaw and fabulous charred onions. $9.

1260 Bloor St. W., 647-748-1260.

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Porchetta and Co.’s Korean Fried Chicken This whopping Korean flavour bomb is drenched in sweet-and-spicy chili sauce with kimchee, lettuce, pickles, cilantro and zingy green onion–lime mayo. $9.45.

545 King St. W., 647-351-8844; 825 Dundas St. W., 647-352-6611.

Eating and Drinking 2018 toronto life 71

food shops

pastries, Rowe Farms meats and a dairy section lined with glass bottles of Harmony Organic milk.

200 Christie St., 416-537-1235.

FRESH FROM THE FARM

Owners Tim and Jacqui Schmucker have longstanding relationships with Mennonite and Amish farming families in the Kitchener-Waterloo region who produce naturally raised, hormone-free meats.

As a result, their store has an excellent array of high-quality Ontario meats and eggs. Closed Sunday. 350 Donlands Ave., 416-422-3276.

HARVEST WAGON

In the window of this Rosedale greengrocer, fresh fruit and veggies balance in pyramids and geometric stacks. Uniformed staff mill about like curators, inspecting each piece of produce for flaws. The back of the store is dedicated to prepared foods, like prime rib roast, eggplant parmigiana and Chilean sea bass. 1103 Yonge St., 416-923-7542.

MCEWAN

Bay Streeters have a subterranean supermarket to forage: you-know-who opened an outpost in the PATH. Shoppers can pick up fresh produce and premium pantry items, and there’s also a coffee bar, a soup and panini station, a salad bar and a 40-item hot table that includes an extensive selection of meat and veggie curries. A food truck–inspired menu features twists on popular treats like poutine, tacos and banh mi. Toronto Dominion Centre, 66 Wellington St. W.; Shops at Don Mills, 38 Karl Fraser Rd.; 416-444-6262.

PUSATERI’S

The Yorkville location continues to live up to its reputation as the city’s top luxury grocery store, with pastries from Rahier and Dufflet, Ornellaia olive oil from Tuscany and excellent salads featuring trendy health food items, like chia seeds, farro and black kale. 57 Yorkville Ave., 416-785-9100; plus three other GTA locations.

ROSEDALE’S FINEST SPECIALTY FOODS

After seven years at tony Summerhill Market, chef Jameson Watermulder opened his own sleek operation just a few doors away. An international brigade of chefs turns out a rotating menu of Italian, Indian, Thai, French and Japanese dishes, and shelves are stocked with Blackbird bakery breads, pastries from Delysées, salumi from Niagara Food Specialties, Martinelli’s apple juice from California, and all the flavours of La Croix, the carbonated drink with a cult following. 408 Summerhill Ave., 416-786-7038.

SUMMERHILL MARKET

The McMullen clan tailors its selection to the needs of its Rosedale clientele. There’s exquisite produce, hard-to-find treats and a sprawling prepared-foods section. Some 120 kitchen staff make everything from scratch: the buttery puff pastry in the tourtière is outstanding. 446 Summerhill Ave., 416921-2714; 1054 Mount Pleasant Rd., 416-485-4471.

AFRICAN AND WEST INDIAN AFRO-CARIBBEAN FOODS

This North Toronto shop carries a variety of products from Africa and the West Indies. One part of the store contains a produce section and a meat counter; the rest holds dry goods, including seasonings, tropical juices and West Indian pepper sauce.

2121 Jane St., 416-241-5435.

CARIBBEAN CORNER

This tiny shop on a quiet stretch of Baldwin Street has retained the character of years gone by. All the standard Caribbean fare is here: blazing-hot scotch bonnets, tamarind balls and giant green sugar cane stalks. In season, breadfruit is exactly as it sounds: when steamed, fried or baked, it tastes like a freshly made loaf. 171 Baldwin St., 416-593-0008.

72 toronto life Eating and Drinking 2018

ASIAN GALLERIA SUPERMARKET

York Mills’s wonderland of Korean food has a large organic selection stocked with produce, miso paste and tofu, but their specialty is kimchee. Our favourite of these is the crisp, addictive radish variety. A close second is a napa version laced with shiso leaves, which taste like minty, citrusy fermented basil. 7040 Yonge St., Thornhill, 905882-0040; 865 York Mills Rd., 647-352-5004.

HEISEI MART

The small space carries hard-to-find sauces and condiments that can make or break a Japanese dish—curry mix (different from Thai or Indian varieties), ponzu sauce (for sashimi) and soba tsuyu (the dipping sauce for soba noodles). The excellent green tea ice cream is more intensely flavoured than the gentle Pinkberry version.

Closed Monday. 3160 Steeles Ave. E., 905-305-7300.

SANKO TRADING CO.

Sanko is the city’s best destination for all things Japanese. Freshly made sashimi is popular, as are marinated fish, like black cod in saikyo miso.

Shiso leaves, soy sauces and yuzu are a few of the standbys that draw Japanese food lovers. Closed Tuesday. 730 Queen St. W., 416-703-4550.

EUROPEAN ALIMENTARI

Leave it to a Buca alumnus to open an A-plus Italian market. Christopher Terpstra and his wife, Sarah, sell everything from prosciutto to house-made pasta. It’s mainly meant for takeaway, but there are a few tables, just in case you can’t wait to dig in to your duck egg bigoli cacio e pepe. (And because the Terpstras inherited the liquor license of the former restaurant, you can even have a glass of wine, too.) 325 Roncesvalles Ave., 416-533-0004.

CENTRO TRATTORIA FORMAGGIO

Francesco Celebre’s deli is a gluttonous parade of porcine pleasures, like peppery mortadella from Bologna, glistening ribbons of prosciutto from Parma and zingy dry-cured ham from Spain. At the back, there’s a counter serving house-made lasagna, eggplant parmesan and arancini. Closed Sunday. 1224 St. Clair Ave. W., 416-656-8111.

LA SALUMERIA

SPEDUCCI MERCATTO

This Italian food emporium, butcher shop, licensed trattoria and shrine to salumi is named for the house speciality—cubes of grilled lamb on a stick—speducci. Shelves and coolers bulge with every manner of delicacy, including awardwinning sausage, jars of pheasant, boar and venison ragôut, lamb prosciutto—all made by chef Gabriele Paganelli, who raises the boar himself.

Choose a 50-day, dry-aged rib eye or tiny Frenched lamb chops from the display cooler, and the kitchen will grill it on the spot for you.

46 Milford Ave., 416-242-2777.

TRE MARI

Owned since 1960 by the Deleo family (and currently run by the third generation), Tre Mari is the nerve centre for all things Italian on St. Clair West, including fresh Calabrese bread, prosciutto di Parma, amaretti cookies, veal sandwiches and extra-virgin olive oil from back home. You’ll find some of the city’s best cannoli and freshly baked ciabatta here. 1311 St. Clair Ave. W., 416-654-8960.

INDIAN B. J. SUPERMARKET

You might end up with more than you bargained for at this superstore—like a slab of paneer for $18.

Kashmiri chili and Madras curry are available in tempting, teeny packets, and there’s a large selection of ready-to-eat meals. The enormous selection of tinned sweets includes rosewater-infused gulab jamun. 1449 Gerrard St. E., 416-469-3712.

INDIA BAZAAR

Part grocery store, part cooking supply store, this Etobicoke shop has been a staple in the neighbourhood for 41 years. It carries a small selection of exotic fruits and vegetables and showcases entire walls of rice, spice mixes and pickles made with mango, ginger, gooseberry or citron. Ready-made roti and naan are available, as well as Indian sweets. 2645 Islington Ave., 416-749-0505.

KOHINOOR FOODS

Outside, milk crates support boxes full of imported produce. Inside are bags of every conceivable dried bean, flour, rice and spice, and family-size jars or packets of roti, paneer and mango pulp. Must-tries include candied fennel seeds and sulphuric black salt. 1438 Gerrard St. E., 416-461-4432.

MIDDLE EASTERN

Owner Carlo Celebre’s enthusiasm for his 36-yearold Davisville deli is as irresistible as the products squeezed into, above and below the counters and shelves. He carries 50 types of salumi and twice as many cheeses (including fresh imported Italian burrata and mozzarella di bufala). A $499 bottle of Pedroni balsamic vinegar is the treasure of the large selection. 2021 Yonge St., 416-486-8327.

ARARAT INTERNATIONAL FINE FOODS

POLKA EUROPEAN DELI

MEXICAN

This Eastern European gem draws customers from across the GTA. The selection of Polish delicacies is staggering: giant jars of pickled herring and tangy beets, sauerkraut and borscht, imported mustards and horseradishes. The meat counter displays more than 10 varieties of Polish sausages. Closed Sunday.

3482 Lawrence Ave. E., Unit 105, 416-289-0379.

SCHMALTZ APPETIZING

Anthony Rose’s shop carries all the standard fishy toppings (smoked salmon, gravlax and, during Passover, gefilte fish), as well as more exotic options like salmon caviar, carp and smoked Acadian sturgeon. Most items can be ordered on a Kiva’s bagel, including (with 24 hours’ notice) $45 worth of sturgeon caviar with sliced eggs and sour cream.

414 Dupont St., 647-350-4261; 224 Ossington Ave., 647-350-4400.

Owners Peter and Aurora Kashkarian make the most of their small Wilson Heights space, packing their shelves so tightly that every visit reveals something new. There’s an expansive array of quality pantry staples, such as olives, dips, gourmet hot sauces and spicy Indian curries. Closed Sunday. 1800 Avenue Rd., 416-782-5722.

LA TORTILLERIA

Traditional Mexican tortillas are just corn soaked in lime water, ground and pressed into dough, then cooked flat on a griddle. And yet some are so much better than others. At this mini-chain, the secret is freshness: the corn is brined and rolled regularly. We suggest devouring them within hours of purchase. 198 Augusta Ave., 416-205-9227; plus two other GTA locations.

HEALTH FOOD THE BIG CARROT

You can find just about any virtuous food item at the Big Carrot, but the shop prioritizes non-GMO and local goods. Those needing a tour through

food shops

gluten-free foods, Paleo diets, 100-kilometre eating or phthalate-, SLS- and paraben-free grooming can just ask any of the Carrot’s friendly, helpful staff. 348 Danforth Ave., 416-466-2129.

ESSENCE OF LIFE ORGANICS

flavours, which includes Toronto Traffic Jam— salted pretzels and English toffee spun through caramel ice cream. Vanilla is the bestseller: on an average summer day, the shop goes through 50 litres. 36 Vaughan Rd., 416-656-6959.

The largest of Kensington Market’s many health food shops carries everything needed to nourish meat-free bodies (Tofurky, wheat meat, organic tofu), soothe sensitive baby bottoms (chlorinefree diapers), fortify bones (a bewildering selection of vitamins) and beef up biceps (whey protein powders). Organic fruits and vegetables, naturally raised meats and nut butter make this a one-stop health shop. 50 Kensington Ave., 416506-0345.

ED’S REAL SCOOP

NATURE’S EMPORIUM

The second outpost of Greg Mahon’s creamery, in one of the Distillery District’s Dickensian lanes, sticks to the traditions that have made his Annex shop a fixture for 11 years. Roasted marshmallow captures the essence of a Jet-Puffed just as it’s pulled from a campfire. The stout flavour, made with Mill Street’s oatmeal stout, has the malty richness of the beer without any bitterness.

32 Gristmill Ln., 416- 961-4734; 750 Spadina Ave., 416-962-4734.

Walking through the produce wing of this organic grocery utopia imparts a sense of well-being. Signs detail provenance (sockeye salmon from Alaska, chèvre from Picton’s Fifth Town). Pizzas are crisped in a dehydration oven to preserve enzymes; our favourite is loaded with collard greens and cashew cheese. 16655 Yonge St., Unit 27, Newmarket, 905-898-1844; plus two other GTA locations.

THE SWEET POTATO

The competitive prices at this eco-friendly supermarket merit a trip to the Junction (by bicycle, of course). Everything in the store is sourced carefully. There are organic, farm-fresh fruits and vegetables, and the selection of faux meats almost outnumbers that of the real stuff from Field Gate Organics. 108 Vine Ave., 416-762-4848.

ICE CREAM PARLOURS BANG BANG

The larger Leslieville ice cream parlour has more adventurous flavours than the original Beaches location. Chili-chocolate gelato packs lots of heat and is all the better for it, while rotating flavours like carrot cake (with a cream cheese swirl) and maple-bacon (with candied bacon bits) sell out in hours. 920 Queen St. E., 416-406-2525; plus three other GTA locations.

GREG’S ICE CREAM

KEKOU

This parlour on Baldwin’s restaurant row uses an aged egg-yolk base for its Asian gelato, spinning ingredients like ginger-simmered milk and toasted black sesame seeds into creamy pots of custard. The fresh durian version—controversial for its gym-sock aroma and strong, pungent flavour—is a must-try. 13 Baldwin St., 416-792-8858; 394 Queen St. W., 416-516-0637.

LA DIPERIE

At their Ossington shop, Rosanne Pezzelli, the pastry master behind Bakerbots, and her brother, Arthur (who studied ice cream and food science at University of Guelph), sell cones, cups and cookie sandwiches big enough to require a double-handed grip. The list of flavours ranges from classic to unconventional, but the best of the lot may be the burnt toffee—a toasty, bittersweet vanilla-caramel blend. 931 Ossington Ave., 647-348-1900.

The Quebec-based ice cream chain is putting a twist on the classic dipped cone by offering 30 flavours of chocolate coating. Flavours include honeylavender and black licorice, but there’s also green tea, piña colada and white chocolate–maple fudge.

The dipped vanilla soft-serve—in a regular cone or a doughnut-like pastry one—is then rolled through one of the 20-plus toppings; some of them are sweet (Oreo, coconut) and others savoury (crushed tortilla chips). 372 Danforth Ave., 1-877-599-4438.

BAR APE

SWEET JESUS

Bar Ape’s adorable gelato shop on wheels has roamed the city’s streets selling gourmet gelato bars in flavours like coconut-and-almond and Creamsicle. The expanded menu at its bricks-andmortar includes soft-serve gelato and small-batch sorbet made with seasonal fruit. Cash only. Closed Tuesday. 283 Rushton Rd., 647-223-4931.

BEAN AND BAKER MALT SHOP

Archie and his gang would feel right at home at this retro soda fountain, whose black-and-white tiled floors, Formica tables and red vinyl stools exude an authentic ’50s feel. The bow-tied soda jerks whip up milkshakes and floats, while classic fountain sodas are sweetened with one of eight specialty syrups then mixed with spiralled bar spoons. 326 Harbord St., 416-536-7632.

DEATH IN VENICE

Kaya Ogruce makes inventive gelato flavours— many of which are vegan—using seasonal products from local farmers and suppliers. The selection changes regularly: if it’s available, Niagara Peach Bellini, made with Niagara peaches, mint and Cuvée Catherine sparking wine, is a scoop of summer. 536 Queen St. W., 416-519-3451.

DUTCH DREAMS

This legendary, whimsical ice cream shop is adorned with kitschy clowns, garden gnomes and bunting banners. The enchantment doesn’t make it any easier to choose from the 60-plus house-made

74 toronto life Eating and Drinking 2018

Of the dozen crazy creations on offer at Sweet Jesus, most—like the Krusty the Cone (cotton-candytufted soft-serve that resembles The Simpsons’ funniest mensch)—were first served at Home of the Brave. Other favourites include the Bangin’ Brownie (chocolate soft-serve, brownie bits, chocolate and caramel sauces, cookie crumble). 106 John St., 647-348-1166; plus two other GTA locations.

SWEET OLENKA’S

The Willy Wonka of the ice cream world, Olenka Bazowski pumps out the same wacky and wonderful flavours (some of them vegan) at her Queen West and Kensington shops that made her Etobicoke location so popular: chocolate ramen, wasabi-ginger-peach and, one time, miso jellyfish.

Her adorably shaped chocolates (think robots, Space Invaders and gardening tools) make for great gifts (even if they’re just for yourself).

1056 Queen St. W., 647-350-7444; plus two other GTA locations.

WONG’S ICE CREAM

With off-the-wall flavours (black sesame with salted duck egg, pine-needle-pink-lychee), owner Ed Wong has been busy from the moment he opened his east Chinatown ice cream parlour.

He keeps nine small-batch flavours in rotation— including several impossible-to-tell-they’re-vegan offerings—and serves them in cute Chinese takeout cartons or waffle cones. 617 Gerrard St. E., 416-778-8883.

PREPARED FOOD COURAGE FOODS

Karen O’Brien sources as much of her produce as possible from local farms. The kitchen churns out shepherd’s pies, quiches, savoury curries, sausage rolls and pulled pork sandwiches slathered in house-made barbecue sauce: your choice of Memphis, Low Country, Alabama or Carolina.

Closed Monday. 946 Kingston Rd., 416- 693-2233.

DANIEL ET DANIEL

With four kitchens to support its popular catering division, this small shop has no trouble producing a wide variety of delicious grab-and-go foods. Fresh croissants tempt in the morning, while chicken parmesan and short ribs make terrific weeknight dinner options. 248 Carlton St., 416-968-9275.

FARINA PLUS

Domenic Giambattista used to cook at Tutti Matti, a restaurant known for its fresh pasta. Now he makes his own. On an imported Italian crank, he cuts square spaghetti alla chitarra, which is thicker and chewier than regular noodles, with more surface area to soak up sauce; it’s eggy, toothsome perfection. Closed Monday. 2563 Major Mackenzie Dr. W., Maple, 905-553-6500.

LOX AND SCHMEAR

At this Corso Italia quick-service spot, Best Aquaculture Practices–rated Atlantic salmon is smoked over oak, cherry, maple and applewood for three to five hours, then served on a Montreal-style St. Urbain bagel, with dairy or vegan cream cheese.

Though only 14 seats, the café and takeout spot is comfy, and the photos of the owner’s bat mitzvah are adorably kitschy. Everything but the bagels is made in-house—even the sprouts. 1030 St. Clair Ave. W., 647-349-8777.

PETITE THUET

Marc Thuet’s place is a one-stop shop for a gourmet night at home. Sourdough loaves, made from a 200-year-old family starter from Alsace, have a crisp crust and sturdy crumb. Colourful seasonal preserves include one made from wild strawberries hand-picked in Muskoka (for a whopping $22.95). For sweet tooths, there’s a gorgeous selection of traditional viennoiserie, seasonal tarts and macarons. 1162 Yonge St., 416-924-2777.

SCHEFFLER’S DELICATESSEN AND CHEESE

Coolers overflow in this St. Lawrence Market shop: more than 25 types of olives, up to 600 cheeses, 20 dips and an abundance of antipasti.

Charcuterie is the main event—the ham and prosciutto are outstanding. St. Lawrence Market South, 93 Front St. E., 416- 364-2806.

SPECIALTY FOOD THE SPICE TRADER

Allison Johnston and Neil Bougourd create bespoke spice blends, like the harissa mix with chili flakes, cumin, coriander, black pepper, garlic and caraway. Our favourite is the panch phoran, a five-spice that hits every spoke on the South Asian flavour wheel: earthy cumin, sharp mustard seed, bitter fenugreek, peppery nigella and sweet fennel. 877 Queen St. W., 647-430-7085.

STASIS PRESERVES DELI AND PANTRY

Julian Katz spent his free time canning and preserving until he decided to turn it into a full-time vocation. His pickle selection on any given day may include kosher dills, sauerkraut and beets. He also makes terrific jams and chutneys in flavours like pear–roasted garlic and black walnut–honey, and he stocks dairy, eggs and cheeses from local farms.

476 Roncesvalles Ave., 647-766-5267.

THE HIGHEST STANDARDS ARE FAMILY STANDARDS. For over 60 years we’ve only served families, what we’d gladly serve our own.

FOR STORE LOCATIONS VISIT LONGOS.COM

Bars & Clubs The ultimate guide for Toronto’s discerning drinkers

beer and about 80 to 85 sipping tequilas, which are available by the bottle or the ounce. Enthusiasts who sign up for private tasting sessions with a rotating team of experts can sample from the bar’s full library of different blanco, reposado and añejo tequilas and mescals. 220 King St. W., lower level, 416-628-9838.

hOT SpOT

fAMOUS LAST WORDS

If the new rule is that every cocktail bar has to find a theme, this Junction spot has taken it to the extreme. The literary bar has bookshelves at the back, bookshelf wallpaper at the front, literarythemed cocktail classes and an exhausting multipage, seven-chapter drinks list; each chapter is dedicated to a different class of beverage (Beach Reads, Classics, Modernist). In the latter section, you’ll find sweet frothy drinks, like the Long and Far Away Gone, a mix of vodka, flowery St.-Germain, gingery Domaine De Canton, lime juice and egg white, with a Galliano finish.

392 Pacific Ave., 416-792-5200.

MULBeRRY BAR

This newly opened sister bar to nearby Northwood has taken over the former space of a taco kitchen and reimagined it as a 19th-century Parisian arcade. The cocktails—named after mid-century philosophical texts and with florid ingredient lists to match—follow suit with the theme, while the curt snack list satisfies a whole manner of late-night cravings, from the salty crunch of a bowl of caviarflavoured chips to a silky swipe of raw milk cheese on cranberry toasts. 828 Bloor St. W., no phone.

BIRRERIA VOLO

NORTheRN BeLLe

Little Italy’s Birreria Volo—the funky sister bar to Bar Volo—feels more like a wine cave in Parma than a polished craft-beer hall in Toronto (page 82).

COCKTAIL LOUNGES BARchef

Since 2008, Frankie Solarik has been rattling the cocktail scene with his hyper-modernist elixirs, like his $45 smoked manhattan (served still smoking). At Barchef, drinks are made with ingredients like essence of antique leather, cacao soil and maraschino gel. Don’t be surprised if your drink comes served with a spoon—some of them are meant to be eaten. 472 Queen St. W., 416-868-4800.

photograph by dave gillespie

cIVIL LIBeRTIeS

At this Bloor West bar, in a red brick Edwardian just east of Ossington (look for the pineapple above the door), there are no servers and no printed menus—only a list of beers and wines behind the bar. Instead, the owners want guests to request cocktails that suit their mood—like the Monkey Shoulder Crusta made with Oloroso sherry, banana liqueur and absinthe in a sugar- and nutmegdusted coupe. To eat: ooey-gooey-good cheese toasties. 878 Bloor St. W., 416-546-5634.

The cLOAK

This basement speakeasy is always locked: when the doorman isn’t around, call the phone number on the door. Then it’s a short walk down an industrial hallway and through a velvet curtain into

Marben’s cozy, sort-of-secret spot. Drinks are inspired by old-timey recipes and unheard-of liquors. 488 Wellington St. W., 416-710-7697.

cOcKTAIL BAR

In a diminutive Trinity Bellwoods space, Jen Agg and her bar hands serve vintage concoctions with ingenious 21st-century twists. The manhattan— made with 10-year-old rye, house bitters, Antica Formula sweet vermouth and sweet, house-made cherries—is the city’s best, and worth all its $16.

Slow-burning ’40s jazz and a crowd of chicly scarved and tuqued 20-somethings give the place a bohemian feel. 923 Dundas St. W., 416- 792- 7511.

D. W. ALeXANDeR

This subterranean lounge is an homage to the heritage property’s original tenant, the 19th-century leather trader D. W. Alexander. It feels like a gentlemen’s club of that era, but cocktails like the Yoga Mat, made with gin, prosecco, house-made seasonal compote and tiki bitters, are thoroughly modern. 19 Church St., 416-364-8368.

eL cABALLITO

The tequila bar was designed to feel like a moody Mexico City cantina: it’s big, dark and decorated with graphic José Posada–inspired murals and tchotchkes. Bartenders serve margaritas, Mexican

By day, Dundas West’s Northern Belle serves cold-brew coffee; by night, a selection of cocktails, like the El Amor, made with rum, extra-dry sherry, bergamot, lime and honey. There’s something wonderful about a place where you can pop in for a morning croissant and linger until last call. 913 Dundas St. W., 416-823-8969.

The ONe eIGhTY

Fifty-one floors above the city, The One Eighty offers sweet cocktails, decent bar food, a spectacular view and two huge patios. Discreet waiters deliver mixed drinks to a diverse crowd: high rollers in Hugo Boss, couples basking in the candlelight and tourists in jorts. On a clear day, it’s said you can see 250 kilometres. Cover $5 on Friday and Saturday after 9 p.m. (but that gets you a DJ). 55 Bloor St. W., 416-967-0000.

PRAY TeLL

At this sister spot to Track and Field, house cocktails are named after sitcom one-liners. Take the Big Bud, Little Bud—a wink to Master of None’s second season. (And with its blend of sweet-tart fruits, frothy egg whites and gin, it’s just as easy to binge.) The food menu is as fun as the bar menu, with things like a house-made pizza pocket and a General Tso–type fried chicken sandwich.

838 College St., no phone.

PReTTYUGLY

At Grant van Gameren and Robin Goodfellow’s Parkdale cocktail lounge, guests first fall into a pocket-size bar—it looks like an apothecary but the medicine is mescal. This leads to another, darker room with a much longer bar—it’s still a tight squeeze, though. Despite a couple of booths and a

Eating and Drinking 2018 toronto life 77

few stools, PrettyUgly is standing room only. Here, bar manager Evelyn Chick mixes up concoctions like the herbaceously tart Crystal Lake. It’s named for the camp in Friday the 13th and made with sherry, lemon, egg white and the mysterious-sounding “rainforest elixir.” 1237 Queen St. W., no phone.

sas in the sunny Gladstone Café. It’s the Ballroom that draws the crowds—with its handsome exposed-brick walls, high ceilings, and shiny wood floor and bar, it’s a hot spot for book launches, performances and DJ dance parties.

1214 Queen St. W., 416-531-4635.

REPOSADO

RITZ BAR

Aside from its cozy appeal—this is a great firstdate destination—Reposado carries the city’s largest selection of premium tequila and mescal: more than 150 bottles (flights are a fantastic way to sample the merchandise). For those with more timid tastes, a blood-orange margarita (made with fresh juice, like all of the cocktails) is the closest thing to paradise this side of a Jimmy Buffett song. Cover $5 on Friday and Saturday. 136 Ossington Ave., 416- 532-6474.

RUSH LANE AND CO.

At this Queen West cocktail bar, the drinks list contains far-flung ingredients like spiced ginger juice and butterfly pea flower. At the back, a glasswalled lab is crammed with tech gadgets, including a rotary evaporator (for flavour extraction), a Tissue-Tearor (a next-level hand blender) and a Clinebell ice machine, which can freeze a 300pound block of ice in 48 hours. 563 Queen St. W., 416-551-7540.

The bar in the Ritz-Carlton still feels like an indispensable institution for suits in need of a stiff after-work drink. The over-styled room will date fast, but the luxe cocktails are keepers. To wit: the Pisco Pasion, made with pisco, passion fruit purée, lime juice and egg whites, is prepared using liquid nitrogen and topped with passion fruit purée. 181 Wellington St. W., 416-585-2500.

THE ROOF LOUNGE

The Park Hyatt’s rooftop bar proves that there’s no need to fix things that aren’t broken. Toronto has had a number of high-flying patios over the years, but none quite compares to the hotel’s 18thfloor aerie and its show-stopping view of the city skyline. The bar has traded in martinis and manhattans for decades, and it shows no sign of changing direction. 4 Avenue Rd., 416-925-1234.

THE ROOFTOP AT THE BROADVIEW HOTEL

The King West version of the old-time speakeasy has a massive drinks list and an even bigger slate of spirits. The wait staff are keen scholars of fine libations, and the bartenders serve up creative house mixes, like the Smoked Old Fashioned, made with toasted pecan–infused whisky, smoked maple syrup, house bitters and cinnamon smoke. Come nighttime, they crank up the house music and the bar becomes another dimly lit Entertainment District lounge. 487 Adelaide St. W., 647-277-1187.

The Toronto skyline is one of the most appealing features of cocktail hour in this city, but until recently, all of the best vantage points have been on the city’s west end. That’s different now with the new Broadview Hotel’s indoor-outdoor top floor, which offers sweeping views not only of the city’s skyscraper-filled core, but also the sparse expanses that stretch to the city’s east and south. See the city from a fresh angle while sipping a cocktail and snacking on beef tartare, scallop ceviche, jerkseasoned ribs and a hefty chuck-brisket burger for which it’s worth making a reservation.

106 Broadview Ave., 416-362-8439.

TORONTO TEMPERANCE SOCIETY

THOMPSON HOTEL ROOFTOP LOUNGE

SPIRITHOUSE

Monthly membership fees of $25 buys the privilege of knocking elbows with barflies who believe that a real martini never includes vodka; that tonic water, mixers and syrups should be made inhouse; and that the best spirits should be a pain in the ass to find. It’s worth putting up with the pretensions to sip the cleverly designed cocktails.

577A College St., 416-536-7000.

DANCE CLUBS THE BOAT

It looks like a cross between a seedy motel and a ferry boat, and it kind of smells. But none of that stops the Kensington crowd from filling up The Boat for floor-shaking dance parties every weekend—in fact, the grottiness adds to the appeal. Boys wear oversized glasses, ’80s sweatbands and short shorts; girls go for Kensington Market’s best vintage. Yacht Rock on the first Friday of every month offers dance music from the ’70s and ’80s. 158 Augusta Ave., 416-593-9218.

MOD CLUB

The Anglophilia at this College Street club can be a bit over the top—pop art covers every inch of wall space—but there is an amazing sound system that has attracted some terrific live shows from artists like Dizzee Rascal, the Junior Boys, Katy Perry and the Weeknd. 722 College St., 416-588-4663.

HOTEL BARS THE GLADSTONE HOTEL

Back in 2008, the once-derelict hotel on the Parkdale border was reborn as an arts hub. There are multiple drinking spots: enjoy karaoke and live music in the Melody Bar, and brunch mimo-

Nowhere in Toronto can our world-class status be more easily confirmed than from a perch at the Thompson’s rooftop bar. The view is best enjoyed with something boozy like the Cabo, made with tequila, triple sec, agave and lime. 550 Wellington St. W., 416-640-7778.

LGBT BLACK EAGLE

The Eagle hosts monthly naked nights and wildly popular Sunday afternoon barbecues on the rooftop patio. The austere, industrial decor and hardcore erotica inside can be daunting, but this is one of the more relaxed spots on the Church strip. It’s sometimes too laid-back: the crowd often consists of burly middle-aged guys with beards and leather caps just waiting for something to happen.

457 Church St., 416-413-1219.

BOUTIQUE BAR

This cocktail lounge uses house-made syrups, bitters and fresh-pressed juices, but the drinks are much cheaper than—and just as artisanal as—the ones you’ll find on Dundas: the St-Germain martini is made with Beefeater gin, St-Germain liqueur, pressed lemon and lime juices, simple syrup and sparkling wine. On Tuesdays, martinis cost only $8, tax included. 506 Church St., 647-705-0006.

SMITH

Bars in the Village don’t usually put much effort into their drinks, but everything’s different at Smith, where the room is sedate and the cocktail list is perfect. Regulars know to order the Rose Minimalist, made with rose-infused Hendrick’s gin, St-Germain liqueur, prosecco, mint and lime juice—garnished with fresh rose petals—for $13.

553 Church St., 416-926-2501.

78 toronto life Eating and Drinking 2018

WAYLA

With concrete floors, exposed brick and pipes, a DJ spinning Top 40 and house music on weekends and karaoke every Tuesday, this Leslieville spot attracts the kind of PYTs found on King and Queen West—just not as many of them. The area’s influx of shops and cafés hasn’t translated into a rowdy nightlife, so the crowd can seem sparse— when you’re looking for cocktails and conversation, that’s a happy perk. 996 Queen St. E., 416-901-5570.

WOODY’S

Depending on your mood and level of anxiety, Woody’s is either welcoming or intimidatingly kinky. Saucy events include a Best Chest contest on Thursdays, a Best Ass competition on Fridays and Saturdays, and three drag shows on Sundays.

467 Church St., 416-972-0887.

MUSIC HALLS BURDOCK

Bloordale’s Burdock wears many hats: it’s a microbrewery, music hall and cozy, candlelit restaurant all in one. Family-style dishes by chef Jeremy Dennis (Woodlot, Chantecler) pair perfectly with the rotating selection of wine-inspired craft brews available. 1184 Bloor St. W., 416-546-4033.

CLINTON’S

This venerable tavern helped launch the careers of Crystal Castles and Die Mannequin, but now regularly hosts Choir! Choir! Choir! The loglined main bar is popular with the university crowd and loyal locals, especially during Worst Behaviour hip hop nights every Saturday. The menu offers veggie variations on standard burger-and-fries fare, such as soy nuggets and drumsticks, and 16 beers on tap. 693 Bloor St. W., 416-535-9541.

THE DAKOTA TAVERN

This Ossington tavern is your best bet for a hoedown, with barnboard walls, twinkle lights and barrels-turned-bar-stools. On weekends, the Dakota is packed with audiences who flock to see the indie acts, so get there early if you want a (relatively) peaceful pint from one of the 13 taps. Simple cocktails—like a mean dark and stormy—are served without flourish. 249 Ossington Ave., 416-850-4579.

HUGH’S ROOM LIVE

Like a Canadian version of Austin City Limits, Hugh’s Room has quietly become the finest place in town to hear roots, folk, jazz, blues and world music. The best way to secure a table is to reserve for pre-performance dining. Happily, the food is a cut well above pub fare (though it’s priced accordingly). 2261 Dundas St. W., 416-531-6604.

JUNCTION CITY MUSIC HALL

To reach this clandestine hangout, visitors have to travel through a door, along a narrow hallway and down a set of stairs. At the bottom is a kitschy basement dive done up with retro pinball machines, reclaimed signage and twinkly lights.

The music is as eclectic as the decor: audiences can cozy up in booths at live funk or rock shows, dance into sweaty oblivion during DJ sets or belt Taylor Swift at karaoke nights. 2907 Dundas St. W., 416-767-5264.

THE LEGENDARY HORSESHOE TAVERN

The historic music hall continues to resist the tide of electronica that has swept many Toronto bars away from their grungy roots. In the back space, angsty musicians pour their hearts out onstage as rowdy Queen Westers pack the dance floor.

370 Queen St. W., 416-598-4226.

bars and clubs LULA LOUNGE

Dundas West’s gem of a music venue is one of the city’s best-guarded secrets, offering a raucous, family-friendly hub for live world music. There’s a decent-sized dance floor and a sophisticated mix of Latin and international performers. Beyond the usual salsa, merengue and samba, the soundtrack incorporates an eclectic mix of African, jazz and cabaret. 1585 Dundas St. W., 416-588-0307.

THE REX HOTEL JAZZ AND BLUES BAR

There was a time when the Rex was an honest-togoodness flophouse. Today, it features 19 terrific jazz performances weekly, including some by such long-time local heroes as Juno-winning sax player Mike Murley. The room stays true to basics, with an oak bar and stained-glass windows. 194 Queen St. W., 416-598-2475.

NEIGHBOURHOOD SPOTS THE ADDiSONS RESiDENcE

BAMBi’S

Unmarked and awesomely lo-fi, Bambi’s smells like wet straw and feels like a mausoleum. It’s a dead zone before midnight, at which time the DJ sets up for a night of obscure indie and dance tracks. By 1 a.m., the place is usually jammed with shaggy west-end eccentrics drinking excellent, potent cocktails for cheap. Closed Monday and Tuesday. 1265 Dundas St. W., 647-748-7500.

BLAcK DicE cAFÉ

Walking into the Black Dice Café on Dundas West feels like stepping into a David Lynch movie: the walls are painted seafoam green and decked out with rock ’n’ roll 45s, a 1958 Seeburg High Fidelity jukebox pumps out rockabilly classics, and the menu has Japanese touches (sake cocktails and wasabi peas). The place is filled with vintage-bike aficionados looking for a quiet drink. 1574 Dundas St. W., 647-748-1574.

cHURcHiLL

Going for drinks at The Addisons in the Entertainment District is meant to feel like crashing a house party. The Wellington Street space has been outfitted to look just like a Beverly Hills manse.

Inside are three rooms: a kitchen, a living room and a rec room—plus a 5,000-square-foot backyard patio complete with cabanas, outdoor games and boozy slushies. 456 Wellington St. W., 416-260-9393.

Near the corner of Dundas and Ossington, Churchill is a serendipitous mishmash of unpretentious watering hole and Portuguese sports bar (it used to be one) where chatty bartenders serve cocktails like the Tequila Last Word: tequila, Chartreuse, maraschino and lime. Closed Monday in winter. 1212 Dundas St. W., 416-588-4900.

cOLD TEA

Hidden in a Kensington Market shopping centre, Cold Tea resembles a musty storage room and a

squatters’ refuge, but it has excellent DJs (spinning electro-funk, hip hop and psych-rock) and artisanal cocktails. The all-season patio out back is one of the ’hood’s best-kept secrets. 60 Kensington Ave., no phone.

THE cOMMUNiST’S DAUGHTER

A small chalkboard is the only sign indicating this irresistible neighbourhood joint. Inside, there’s an easygoing atmosphere and a retro-kitsch vibe— with vinyl chairs, Formica tables, an old lunch counter and a fantastic jukebox (it plays three tunes for a loonie). Wander in for live gypsy jazz on Saturdays and country troubadour music on Sundays. 1149 Dundas St. W., 647-435-0103.

THE DYLAN

This year-old Danforth East local boasts a dozen ever-rotating draft beers, countless cans of local brew and boozy cocktails. Decked out with checkerboard floors, a chalkboard wall, high-top tables, picnic benches and some big-screen TVs broadcasting whatever local sports team is playing, the Dylan is still working out some of the kinks (well-meaning servers, but hopelessly understaffed), though locals appear more than willing to overlook that for the relaxed vibe, daily specials and cold beer. 1276 Danforth Ave., 416-792-7792.

THE EMMET RAY

Overstuffed armchairs fill up with floppy-tuqued 20-somethings who are more subdued than the revellers elsewhere on College. The bar is known for a huge selection of rare brown liquors—

TOP FIvE

Wine Bars

The city’s best places to cozy up for a glass (or three)

photograph by dave gillespie

1

Grey Gardens At this Kensington restaurant’s noreservation bar, the wine list, punctuated with straightforward descriptors (“spicy, savoury, herbaceous”), focuses on minimal-intervention wines from all over.

199 Augusta Ave., 647-351-1552.

2

chez Nous Leslieville’s allOntario wine bar stocks a lineup heavily sourced from smaller family-run wineries rather than the province’s traditional heavy hitters. Glasses from the wine list start at a very agreeable $6. 798 Queen St. E., 416-781-4743.

3

côte de Boeuf This Ossington wine cubby, which doubles as a butcher shop, is a nod to Paris’s Le Baron Rouge, a famously raucous market-lane bar à vin.

The wines here are a crash course in French essentials.

130 Ossington Ave., 416-532-2333.

4

Skin and Bones Once reserved for bowling alleys, league night is now a thing.

This Leslieville wine bar hosts a weekly matchup where Ontario producers schmooze with guests who then vote for a winner after tasting a flight. 980 Queen St. E., 416-524-5209.

5

Archive This laid-back place in Little Portugal offers 50-plus wines by the glass, leaning toward affordable Italian, French and Ontario labels. They are available in threeounce, five-ounce and bottle pours.

909 Dundas St. W., 647-748-0909.

Eating and Drinking 2018 toronto life 79

including whiskies from Japan, Corsica, Sweden, South Africa and India—so it’s a happy surprise the place also makes a great burger topped with bourbon barbecue sauce and fried cheese.

924 College St., 416-792-4497.

FARSIDE

Handlebar’s east-end counterpart is Farside, a colourful and quirky dive that’s impossible not to love. There’s beer aplenty (bottles of serviceable Old Style Pilsner share fridge space with limitededition Left Field collaborations) and well-crafted house cocktails, like the Forever 41, a wine spritzer with an elderflower twist. The snack menu is limited, but includes a “sour plate” (kimchee, a pickled egg, kettle chips) and birthday cake—procured daily from neighbouring Tung Hing bakery— served by the slice on a Spice Girls plate.

600 Gerrard St. E., 647-347-7433.

FOOD AND LIQUOR

Co-owner Nigel French has created a hipster snack bar with a covetable, tin-roofed patio and fairy lights twinkling overhead. Food and Liquor offers classic cocktails and a short wine list, but the real draw is the excellent list of Ontario craft beers. On tap, you may find a Spirit Tree cider that’s cellar-aged for six months, and the house beer is from Great Lakes Brewery. 1610 Queen St. W., 647-748-7113.

416 SNACK BAR

Queen and Bathurst’s globe-trotting snack bar is regularly crowded with imposingly attractive

west-enders. Rotating taps pour Burdock’s Té sour, Baltika 7 Russian lager, Revel cider and, when possible, one of Bellwoods’s brews. Take a seat at the bar and chat up the servers, or sit at one of the communal tables and bug the regulars.

181 Bathurst St., 416-364-9320.

THE GASLIGHT

This lovely little local on an otherwise forgettable stretch of Bloor serves cocktails that are creative, well composed and strong, like a rye old-fashioned infused with orange pekoe tea and a cinnamonallspice syrup. There’s also a short menu of bar food, including a rotating selection of cheeses from Monforte Dairy and an addictive trio of salty snacks: spiced nuts, kalamata olives and pickled root veggies. 1426 Bloor St. W., 647-402-9728.

THE GEM

A scratchy turntable and cracked red leather stools set the scene for beer and heaping platters of jalapeño-blasted nachos at this St. Clair West dive.

The clientele are grown-up versions of the hipsters lining the bars on Dundas West: parents wearing horn-rimmed glasses, nursing beers and enjoying blissful moments without their little monsters.

1159 Davenport Rd., no phone.

HANDLEBAR

This casual Kensington Market drinking hole was named for a certain two-wheeled vehicle—which explains the metallic spray-painted bike frames adorning the walls. Cheap pints of beer, patio

seating, strong cocktails and a healthy helping of kitsch—why reinvent the wheel? 159 Augusta Ave., 647-748-7433.

HI-LO

A mixed crowd of locals perch at the high tables of this Riverside bar. The place is cozy, with vintage band posters, playful light fixtures sporting multicoloured bulbs and a soundtrack mixing new and classic rock. Booze-wise, go for Hi-Lo’s sazerac, made with Four Roses bourbon, bitters and a twist of orange peel, or a bottle of Iron Maiden’s Trooper Ale. 753 Queen St. E., 416- 551-3459.

HITCH

This watering hole is named for the infamous late writer Christopher Hitchens. The dimly lit, relaxed spot serves up brown-liquor cocktails and craft beers from local makers like Sidelaunch and Danforth. If you’re in the mood to sip, the bar carries a large selection of bourbon (36 bottles, to be exact). 1216 Queen St. E., 647-352-7781.

LLOYD’S ON QUEEN

Named after the bartending apparition from Stanley Kubrick’s The Shining, Lloyd’s is an eclectic faux-dive beloved by locals as a late-night haunt for boozy cocktails, craft beer and 90s rap (on vinyl, natch). The more-is-more decor— gallery walls featuring old beer ads, retro boudoir shots, newspaper clippings from Toronto sports history and, of course, images of Jack

Top Five

East-End Breweries Refreshing new reasons to cross the Don

Godspeed Brewery Luc “Bim” Lafontaine, the former head brewer at Montreal’s Dieu du Ciel!, opened this big brewery, with a taproom, bottle shop and izakaya menu, in a former dollar store just south of Gerrard. 242 Coxwell Ave., no phone.

2

Rorschach Brewing Co. A trio of friends took over the Le Papillon on the Park space, turning it into a brewery and restaurant with a 100-seat rooftop patio and a rotating batch of 16 house-brewed beers.

1001 Eastern Ave., 416-901-3233.

80 toronto life Eating and Drinking 2018

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Eastbound Brewing Co. At Riverside’s new brewery, Dave Lee, formerly of Mill Street, is turning out a range of styles, including a porter, a saison, an IPA, a pale ale, a hefeweizen, an oatmeal stout and a Belgian wit. 700 Queen St. E., 416-901-1299.

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Muddy York Brewing Co. While Muddy York’s beers are available at about 50 bars and restaurants across the city, you can also try them in the taproom, or grab a few bottles or growlers to go from their on-site retail shop. 22 Cranfield Rd., 416-619-7819.

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Saulter Street Brewery This bright and airy taproom with a farmlike feel is supremely stroller- and dogfriendly. Its flagship brew is a crushable pilsner, and to eat: snack boards from Leslieville Cheese Market. 1-31 Saulter St., 416-463-9379.

photograph by dave gillespie

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bars and clubs

Nicholson—and the convivial, laid-back staff will have you feeling comfortable in no time.

1298 Queen St. E., 416-551-8158.

LOVELESS CAFE

Jamal Watson’s basement bar, Unlovable, remains Dundas West’s preeminent hipster haven. But his above-ground alternative—right across the street—is a place his tattooed regulars can graduate to when they grow tired of shouting over garage-rock DJs. Loveless transforms into a Reunion Island–slinging café at the crack of dawn, serving espressos and baked goods in the morning, and sandwiches and Jamaican patties into the afternoon. 1430 Dundas St. W., 647-346-2402.

Heirloom Farm to Truck

Eat Real Food Heirloom Food Truck travels the

NORTHWOOD

By day, Northwood is a cozy café with enormous windows and an abundance of outlets for laptops—a perfect place to sip lattés while writing your novel. Come sundown, it morphs into a lively bar and restaurant serving cocktails, some crafted from house-made bitters, and (also house-made) cold brew coffee. 815 Bloor St. W., 416-846-8324.

city of Toronto bringing local and sustainable eats to the community.

Working with local & artisan producers in Ontario, Heirloom brings chef oriented dishes to the street. Also

THE PAINTED LADY

known for Toronto’s First Homemade

This sliver of a bar has chameleonic tendencies.

A burlesque dancer shimmies onstage one night, while another evening brings a crooner covering Neil Young songs. Beer is the drink of choice for the jorts-sporting west-end set. The five-seat patio offers spectacular people-watching on Saturday nights, as drunken Ossington revellers stumble to cabs. If you value your personal space, it’s best to visit Monday through Wednesday. 218 Ossington Ave., no phone.

Cheesecake on A Stick, a fan favourite dessert that went viral on the internet.

PHARMACY

Most of Parkdale’s new bars and restaurants have kept to Queen Street, leaving its stretch of King relatively untouched. That’s how owner Chris Harper found his current space, a former pharmacy and methadone clinic on the southwestern reaches of the neighbourhood. Inside, the laid-back bar is a dictionary of cool, with mismatched vintage tables and chairs, a giant bison’s head hanging from the wall and a ridiculous selection of beer and bourbon (and not much else). 318 King St. W., no phone.

heirloomtoronto.com • 647.284.6084 •

@heirloomtoronto

THE RHINO BAR AND GRILL

Come summer, the patio next to Rhino’s parking lot is packed with rickety tables and beerchugging Parkdale dwellers. They’re here for the 100-plus bottled brews from more than 24 countries—Trinidad, Croatia, Kenya and Singapore, among them. The 24 rotating taps pour local craft beer staples, including Mill Street, Wellington and Creemore, plus a few foreigners, like Delirium. 1249 Queen St. W., 416-535-8089.

THE SHORE LEAVE

The Shore Leave is proof that Danforth East residents are increasingly spoiled for choice. Had the South Pacific–inspired spot opened a few kilometres west, it’d likely be packed nightly. As it happens, it’s easy to grab a spot at the faux–tiki bar, decked out with tribal masks, fake palms and tropical murals. Boozy fruit-forward cocktails are specialties here, like the bar’s namesake, built with rum, IPA ginger beer, cucumber and mint.

There are also potent punch bowls to share, as well as a decent selection of draft beer and tall boys. Weekly music nights feature eclectic bands: one night it’s surf rock, another night it’s swamp blues. 1775B Danforth Ave., 647-477-8833.

1602

A fun if somewhat familiar addition to brown booze–flooded Brockton Village, 1602 is not so much a destination bar as a cozy extension of your living room—assuming your liquor cart holds dozens of scotches, bourbons and whiskies. The bartender responds to a “What’s good?” request by whipping up an award-worthy cherry bourbon

Recognized as one of the best breweries in Ontario •Belgian-inspired beers •Unrivalled whisky wall •Seasonal, all-fresh menu

928 College St. Toronto 416-533-7272

follybrewing.com

Eating and Drinking 2018 toronto life 81

sour—tangy on top with a base of boozy goodness.

For those who aren’t into brown bracers, there are all the regular local craft beer suspects and some cider, too. 1602 Dundas St. W., no phone.

SNEAKY DEE’S

U of T students and Little Italy denizens fill the grimy booths at Sneaky Dee’s for a couple reasons: the towering plates of cheesy, gooey nachos and the cheap pitchers. They’re so good that Arcade Fire mentioned the place in a Grammy acceptance speech. The room is a rowdy scene every night of the week, with the boisterous diners drowning out the Tom Waits on the speakers and live indie music from the top floor. 431 College St., 416-603-3090.

SWEATY BETTY’S

The tortured literati of Trinity Bellwoods rendezvous nightly at this small, bordello-inspired den at the foot of Ossington. Flickering candles illuminate the deep crimson walls marked with early-20th-century tattoo flash. Roped curtains, a faux-crystal chandelier and shabby-chic secondhand furnishings contrast with nightly DJs spinning everything on vinyl from Sid Vicious to Hank Snow. 13 Ossington Ave., no phone.

3030

THE YUKON

Young couples—the ones newly mortgaged and in need of a stiff Pimm’s—visit The Yukon, which opened in 2012 on Parkdale’s restaurant row. A pressed-tin ceiling and bookcases stacked with vintage records create an air of dignified hipness, as do the cocktails, which are ably mixed classics. Things get rowdier after 11 p.m., when 20-somethings pack into the narrow room like pickles in a mason jar.

1592 Queen St. W., 647-345-4156.

PUBS AMSTERDAM BREWHOUSE

Amsterdam’s four-year-old lakeside brewpub is the city’s finest day-drinking destination—on a sunny afternoon, beer purists lounge in Muskoka chairs by the water, sipping icy pints brewed in the pub, which occupies a converted 1920s boathouse. The beer list features the familiar Amsterdam varieties, like the zippy Cruiser pale ale and the crisp 3-Speed Lager, but we recommend trying one of the weirder seasonal concoctions. For newbies, the pubby menu—wings, burgers, fish and chips—includes pairing tips.

245 Queens Quay Blvd. W., 416-504-1020.

Spacious enough to house 200 of your closest friends, this Junction venue has obviously ignored the Toronto bar handbook. Neither dark nor narrow nor dripping with bourbon and irony, 3030 is instead a clubhouse suitable for both a relaxed gettogether (they’ve got classics like Jenga behind the bar) and a raging dance party. Entertainment can be unpredictable, but that’s part of what makes stumbling into a Motown-heavy set or a trivia night so much fun. 3030 Dundas St. W., 416-769-5736.

BANDIT BREWERY

THREE SPEED

This spot from Creemore Springs is the latest in a series of brewpubs to take over the same address.

Batch makes its beer in-house (including seasonal brews like a lightly spiced wit and a chocolatey porter), but what sets it apart from its predecessors is the menu, which includes traditional prime rib roasts on weekends. Free Ping-Pong is a bonus. 75 Victoria St., 416-238-1484.

The vibe at this modest Bloordale bar is familiar (think Cheers à la Jack Kerouac), and the crowd is legitimately eclectic. Melodic indie pop alternates with revered rock albums on the soundtrack, and a good selection of drafts complements cheeky specialty cocktails, like the Beauty School Dropout, which features gin, pineapple juice, prosecco and fresh blueberries. 1163 Bloor St. W., 647-430-3834.

TRACK AND FIELD

This 5,000-square-foot indoor lawn games bar features two bocce ball lanes and two shuffleboard decks—one of each is saved for walk-ins, and all are available to play free of charge. And for those waiting for a lane to free up: crokinole boards (think tabletop curling in the round) are available for sitdown play. Of course, lawn games are best enjoyed with a bit of booze: there are classic and signature cocktails on tap, as well as canned and draft beer.

860 College St., no phone.

THE WALTON

The house cocktail list at this adorable Little Italy spot offers some surprising inventions and solid classics, like a sidecar that stays just this edge of sweet; a tightly curated wine list offers a range of grapes; and if cider’s in order, a rotating tap showcases seasonal favourites and canned varieties from near and far. Little bar snacks make for simple, sophisticated nibbles: local cheese, including one made from a grassy and creamy blend of sheep and water buffalo milks, toasts with ricotta and seasonal vegetables. 607 College St., no phone.

THE WREN

The Danforth saloon is fully decked out with a wagon-wheel chandelier, framed needlepoints and barnboard wainscotting. Snacks include a pulled pork chimichanga, and the bar rotates 12 Ontario craft brews on tap. The drinks list offers seasonal cocktails like an easy-sipping peach iced tea laced with bourbon. 1382 Danforth Ave., 647-748-1382.

The adorably branded, buzz-worthy Bandit opened last April in a former autobody shop, transforming the adjacent parking lot into a sprawling streetside patio. With a roster of 12 beers and a menu of salty snacks, ordering flights and bites here is a great way to spend an afternoon—or get some bottles to go from the brewery’s retail shop. 2125 Dundas St. W., 647-348-1002.

BATCH

BEERBISTRO

The Financial District’s artisanal beer bar is packed with the kinds of hops geeks who can identify a beer’s yeast levels and bouquet. For novices, knowledgable servers explain the nuances of around 150 beers, which are organized into 11 categories (from quenching to smoky, robust to fruity).

The cellar menu offers about 18 rare beers at $12 to $56 per bottle; a three-draft taster set is $6. 18 King St. E., 416-861-9872.

BELLWOODS BREWERY

When Bellwoods opened five years ago, it instantly changed the way hip west-enders, eager to graduate from PBR, drank beer. The loft-style room is packed every night, as are the picnic tables out front. Each beer on tap is a testament to owners Luke Pestl and Mike Clark’s devotion to detail. They age beer in all kinds of barrels— whisky, wine, cognac—and experiment with unusual ingredients like sour cherries. A store next door lets you skip the line and take the brew home. 124–126 Ossington Ave., 416-535-4586.

BIRRERIA vOLO

Little Italy’s Birreria Volo (the funky sister to Bar Volo) feels more like a wine cave in Parma than a craft-beer hall in Toronto. In place of branded glassware and tacky tap handles, you’ll find a narrow brick grotto with a long marble-topped bar.

The menu headings are listed in Italian, and the drafts are served in riesling glasses to showcase the aromas. Most of the 26 taps and cellar listings are devoted to goses, lambics, farmhouse saisons and other wild ales. 612 College St., no phone.

82 toronto life Eating and Drinking 2018

BLOOD BROTHERS BREWING

Since opening their brewery in 2015, brothers Dustin and Brayden Jones have already expanded their brewing capacity and moved across the street to a larger space with a taproom. The Joneses experiment with seasonal fruits under their Paradise Lost label, which includes White Lies, a hoppy sour made with sauvignon blanc grapes. 165 Geary Ave., no phone.

THE CEILI COTTAGE

Patrick McMurray’s Irish local has a homey feel, courtesy of church-pew seating, garrulous staff and couples playing Gaelic Scrabble. Twelve kegs of Irish beer and Canadian craft brews are tapped at a time, and there’s always a rotating cask from County Durham (of which the Hop Noggin IPA is popular). Tuesdays mean traditional live Irish music sessions. 1301 Queen St. E., 416-406-1301.

C’EST WHAT?

There’s beer and then there’s cask-conditioned beer—the unfiltered, unpasteurized brew that acquires its bubbles from active yeast, not injections of carbon dioxide or nitrogen. The largest, most consistently available selection is still at this venerable subterranean brewpub near St. Lawrence Market, where there’s a rotating selection of eight Ontario-brewed cask ales in stock at all times. 67 Front St. E., 416-867-9499.

DUGGAN’S BREWERY

The Parkdale successor to Duggan’s Brewery’s previous location on Victoria Street serves sharable snacks made with local ingredients. But you’re here for the beer: there are 14 selections available on tap, including the brewery’s own No. 9 IPA and a few of its seasonal suds; adventurous drinkers can sample a menu of beer-based cocktails like the Lagerita, a beer-based margarita. The attached retail shop sells six-packs and growlers for at-home imbibing.

1346 Queen St. W., 416-890-7339.

EASTBOUND BREWING CO.

Brewer Dave Lee (Mill Street) and his wife, chef Tara Lee (Cowbell, Bar Hop Brewco), have taken over the space that was once the short-lived Teck Theatre, right next door to the new Broadview Hotel. It’s the first brewery in the city to sell crowlers, one-litre cans of beer that fit nicely into a bike basket—unlike their heavier, more-breakable cousin, the growler. The kitchen’s cornmealcrusted cod sandwich is basically a grown-up FiletO-Fish, and it goes great with a pint of the peppery Basecamp saison. 700 Queen St. E., 416-901-1299.

FOLLY BREWPUB

Formerly Habits Gastropub, Folly is now a nanobrewery focused on making Belgian-inspired, American craft–influenced porters, saisons ales and sours. Christina Coady and Chris Conway were brought on to start the brewery, which has already been named one of the top five in the province by the Ontario Craft Beer Guide. 928 College St., 416-533-7272.

GODSPEED BREWERY

Luc Lafontaine, the former head brewer at Montreal’s Dieu du Ciel! brewery, has opened this 140-seat brewpub on Coxwell, in what was once a dollar store. After debuting with only a stout, an IPA and a biscuity Dortmunder lager, the beer lineup is starting to get interesting with creations like the Transatlantic Pale Ale, made with grains, hops and yeast from Canada, England, France and the U.S. The food is pure izakaya fare, including karaage chicken and pork katsu sandwiches, making for one of the most unique food-beer pairings in the city. 242 Coxwell Ave., 416-551-2282.

THE GREATER GOOD

The owners of Dundas West’s beer bar Get Well have expanded and are now slinging local craft

bars and clubs

draft on Geary Avenue. A second-floor mini -arcade features Skee Ball, a couple of pinball machines and a handful of arcade games. As they do at Get Well, North of Brooklyn sells slices and full pies from open to close. Unlike at the Dundas West bar, however, the Greater Good lures a lot of families for dinner—kids get to enjoy pizza and old-timey video games, and parents are afforded some precious pint time. 229 Geary Ave., 647-348-2339.

Danforth storefront, a snug 50-seat backyard patio courts hops aficionados from both sides of the DVP. They come for the colossal list of 230 bottles and cans—recent highlights are the sour ales and IPAs from Quebec’s Le Trou du Diable—25 rotating beers on draft, including special nitro taps, at least one cask-conditioned ale and Ontario ciders.

972 Danforth Ave., 416-463-7843.

HALO BREWERY

Tucked behind the Stockyards in a former chemical manufacturing plant, the open-concept space is a taproom, event space and bottle shop. The staff of five (including owner and brewer Jordan Rainhard) pumps out a list of stellar beers, like Lazy Bones, an American-style IPA with pine, citrus and tropical notes. 100 Symes Rd., 416-763-2337.

Opened by two former techies, the Junction Triangle’s Halo is a favourite among craft beer nerds. Co-founder Eric Portelance and head brewer Callum Hay take traditional beers and add ingredients like coriander, ginger, rose hips and kiwi. And if you like what you drink, their recipes are available on their website. 247 Wallace Ave., 416-606-7778.

HENDERSON BREWING CO.

Henderson is part of the controversial gentrification of the artsy, post-industrial Sterling Road (soon to be home of the Museum of Contemporary Canadian Art), but families, cyclists and dog walkers on the West Toronto Railpath are happy to use the new brewery as a rest-and-refresh stop.

A tribute to Toronto’s first brewer, Robert Henderson, it opened in May 2016 and releases a monthly brew inspired by the city, like the lemon-lime radler collaboration with Sweet Pete’s bike shop. 128A Sterling Rd., 416-863-8822.

INDIE ALEHOUSE

The once-derelict Junction now has not one but two craft breweries. Our favourite remains Indie Alehouse, which operates a bustling brewpub filled with 30-somethings and the occasional family splitting a pizza. The owner, Jason Fisher, and his brewmaster, Jeff Broeders, craft huge flavours and strong brews, like Cockpuncher IIPA, which is 11 per cent alcohol. Sold in bottles at the store up front, it’s brilliant for a long-weekend barbecue.

2876 Dundas St. W., 416-760-9691.

LEFT FIELD

The beers from this baseball-themed brewery—run by husband-and-wife team Mark and Mandie Murphy—are on the menus at over 140 Toronto bars and restaurants, including Bar Hop, Birreria Volo and The Wren. Left Field’s 6,000-square-foot brewery in northern Leslieville includes a taproom and bottle shop where shoppers can score the label’s core brands, like the lightly hopped Maris pale ale and highly drinkable Eephus oatmeal brown ale. 36 Wagstaff Dr., 647-346-5001.

LOUIS CIFER BREW WORKS

Erin Gamelin and Craig Abbott, who also co-own the nearby Stout Irish Pub, oversee this massive brewpub on the Danforth. The 24 taps are divided between house beers and ones from Ontario craft mainstays like Great Lakes, Cameron’s and Nickel Brook. Pommies cider can be ordered as a regular pint or as a slushy made with a special machine Gamelin imported from Japan. Beer cocktails, classic mixed drinks and house-made root beer are also available. 417 Danforth Ave., 647-350-5087.

MILL ST. BREW PUB

The cheery hive of a room has 18-foot ceilings, red-and-yellow walls and an unimpeded view of the brew tanks. It offers all the classic Mill Street beers—Balzac’s coffee porter, Tankhouse ale— plus some fruity martinis and a long list of single malts. A relaxed crowd floods out onto two huge patios in summer and huddles in wooden booths in winter. 21 Tankhouse Ln., 416-681-0338.

THE ONLY CAFE

What began 35 years ago as a bohemian sandwich counter has morphed into one of the city’s finest beer emporiums. Behind a graffiti-muralled

RAINHARD BREWING CO.

RORSCHACH BREWING CO.

A trio of friends took over Le Papillon on the Park earlier this year, turning the Eastern Avenue roadhouse into a huge brewery and restaurant with a 100-seat rooftop patio and retail store. For such a young operation, there’s already an impressive selection of 16 house-brewed beers, including some bold sours, hoppy IPAs and experimental gimmicks, all with names borrowed from the pages of a psychology textbook. 1001 Eastern Ave., 416-901-3233.

SAULTER STREET BREWERY

Hidden behind a dead-end road, the east end’s newest brewery only comes into view after ducking down an alley that opens up to a parking lot and Saulter Street’s cherry-red barn doors—it’s like a beer-lover’s version of Narnia. The bright and airy taproom with a farm-like feel is unlike any others in Toronto right now—it’s a little bit country, less city—and it’s also supremely strollerand dog-friendly. There’s the occasional one-off, but Saulter’s primarily focused on its flagship brew, a totally crushable pilsner. 31 Saulter St., Unit 1, 416-463-9379.

STOUT IRISH PUB

The Irish pub brings to mind images of drunken frosh vying for novelty Guinness products on St. Patrick’s Day. Stout might be the bar to change that image. The interior sticks with classic brick walls, cozy leather chairs and a fireplace, but the beer list saves the pub from Fionn MacCool’s territory: there’s a staggering selection of 100 brews, most of them from Ontario, with nary a Guinness to be had (they pour Murphy’s Irish Stout instead). 221 Carlton St., 647-344-7676.

TALLBOYS

The civic pride is palpable at this five-year-old pub, with subway-station wall decals, a Blue Jays championship flag and a corkboard featuring local events. But the real draw is the beer. With more than 60 Ontario craft brews on the lineup—dozens available in the bar’s namesake size—anyone can find the right pairing for the kitchen’s smashed and seared burgers. 838 Bloor St. W., 416-535-7486.

SPORTS BARS THE BALLROOM BOWL

In 2010, 10-pin arrived in the downtown core, along with Ping-Pong, foosball, video gaming and just about every other frat-boy pursuit that doesn’t involve MDMA. The multiple opportunities to engage in sport (and simultaneously watch it on TV) make this clubland fixture less a bar and more a boozy athletic amusement park; it’s full of pie-eyed finance dudes bowling off steam and eating fried foods after a tough day at the TSX. 145 John St., 416-597-2695.

REAL SPORTS BAR AND GRILL

A sports bar on steroids, Real Sports is a 25,000-square-foot amphitheatre of game-

watching excess, with 199 high-definition flatscreens, including one that’s two and a half storeys tall. The beer menu is supersized, too. There are 126 taps, so everyone from the Steam Whistle devotee to the Belgian Früli strawberry wheat ale enthusiast will leave happy and tipsy. 15 York St., 416-815-7325.

ROUND THE HORN

This Roncey sports bar has a sprawling back patio and a hot dog–based menu. We recommend the Mac Daddy, a mess of shredded lettuce, cheese, onions, pickles and secret sauce, with some local beer like Left Field’s Sunlight Park saison. If it starts to rain, head inside where there’s a pinball machine, a Super Nintendo console and classic board games. 331 Roncesvalles Ave., 416-785-2123.

SPIN TORONTO

Entering the lower-level space—through unmarked steel doors down a King Street alleyway—feels like infiltrating an illegal Ping-Pong ring. Tables are hard to come by (members, who pay $50 a month, often book them). The house-made bar snacks are remarkably good, and the Ontario craft brew list includes hyper-local offerings, like Henderson and Bellwoods. 461 King St. W., 416-599-7746.

WINE BARS ARCHIVE

Archive is the kind of laid-back place where, on a quiet night, a cyclist in full spandex regalia will read a novel at the bar while a clutch of 30-something women whisper confidingly over a bottle of Côtes de Provence rosé at the front window table. Brothers Joel and Josh Corea offer small plates, and a chalkboard lists the staff’s favourite pairings, such as the salt fish buljol with vinho verde. They stock over 400 bottles, and there are 60-ish wines by the glass, leaning toward affordable Italian, French and Ontario labels. Six flights—including one teaser served blind—explore themes by grape variety.

909 Dundas St. W., 647-748-0909.

CHEZ NOUS

Nothing on owner Laura Carr’s wine list comes from outside the province. That’s a feature, not a bug, of this Queen East corner spot, where the motto is “Our wine, our place.” And the neighbourhood has taken to it. This is more a place for sipping than snacking, but for anyone looking to taste what small producers in Niagara and Prince Edward County are bottling, the ambiance and selection here is a good alternative to driving two hours east or west. Selections change often, but look for Southbrook Winery’s skin-contact Orange Vidal and Rosehall Run’s pinot noir, both available by the glass or bottle. 798 Queen St. E., 416-781-4743.

MIDFIELD WINE BAR

This casual wine bar is run by a couple of stonecold wine nerds: Giuseppe Anile and certified sommelier Madeleine Hayles. You go to try esoteric varieties, like Hungarian kékfrankos and Greek moschofilero. The room, a barely rehabbed Portuguese sports bar, fills on Saturdays, but in the most laid-back manner. Chef Mark Redman’s seasonal snacks—like an artichoke salad with hazelnuts and comté cheese—are excellent.

1434 Dundas St. W., 647-345-7005.

SKIN AND BONES

The rough-hewn bar and concrete floor could make this Leslieville room feel cavernous, but the candlelit tables and chatty servers warm the place up nicely. There are 27 wines available in threeand-a-half- and five-ounce pours, so you can dabble to your heart’s content. The list favours both Ontario and Euro labels, and sommelier Tiffany Jamison-Horne will happily suggest pairings for any of chef Soohyeong Lee’s seasonal fare.

980 Queen St. E., 416-524-5209.

Eating and Drinking 2018 toronto life 83

wine

David Lawrason’s annual list of the top bottles of the year

Best oF ontario

TAWSE 2015 QUARRY ROAD RIESLING

91 points

A roundup of local all-stars

the critic Our resident wine critic, David Lawrason, tasted approximately 500 wines that are continuously available at the LCBO and in the Vintages Essentials collection. He found about half of these worthy of a “very good” rating of 87 points or higher. From there, he narrowed his list down to the following 136 wines—the very best, according to quality and value.

THIRTY BENCH 2016 WINEMAKER’S BLEND RIESLING

91 points

niagara peninsula $20.85 Thirty Bench was runner-up for Canada’s Winery of the Year in 2017. This has a very intense ripe pear, petrol and lemon nose, with a touch of sweetness and balancing acidity. Vintages Essentials 24133

CAVE SPRING 2015 CHARDONNAY MUSQUÉ

90

points

FLAT ROCK 2015 CHARDONNAY

90 points

scores 95 to 100 ..................... outstanding 90 to 94 ...........................excellent 85 to 89........................... very good 80 to 84 .................................. good

twenty mile Bench $18.95 Flat Rock’s signature style is creamy, elegant chardonnay.

Expect a custardy nose of baked peach pie, vanilla, toast and hazelnut. It’s nicely polished, sweetish and creamy with some warmth and lemony acidity.

Vintages LCBO 286278

xx

xx

points

xx

points

Beamsville Bench $16.95 Cave Spring specializes in musqué, an unusual chardonnay clone with floral aromas. It’s medium-bodied and fairly rich with restrained hints of green banana and peachy fruit. This is a very elegant wine. Vintages 246579

CHÂTEAU DES CHARMES 2016 ALIGOTÉ

88 points

Badge colour key points

vinemount ridge $24.50 From a fine limestone site atop the Niagara Escarpment, this is a powerful, dry, racy riesling with cool aromas of fresh herbs and apricot, plus chalky minerality on the finish. It’s slender, tart and tingling with fine sweetness. Will age. Vintages Essentials 198853

niagara-on-the-lake $15.95 Aligoté is an unsung Burgundy variety delivering light chablislike whites. This vintage is simple and clean, with mild green pear and apple flavours, stoniness and vague bready character. It is medium-bodied, firm and mouthwatering. LCBO 296848

xx

points

red wine white wine sparkling wine other

FLAT ROCK 2016 TWISTED

CREEKSIDE 2016 SAUVIGNON BLANC

88

points

photographs shown may not reflect vintages described.

84 toronto life Eating and Drinking 2018

niagara peninsula $14.95 Creekside is a sauvignon blanc champion in Niagara. This crisp, dry edition shows intense sauvignon flavours of fresh herbs, evergreen and limegrapefruit notes. Fresh and edgy.

Perfect with salads and vegetarian fare. LCBO 620724

88

points

niagara peninsula $17.95 This is an off-dry aromatic blend of riesling, gewürztraminer and chardonnay. Nicely lifted, floral aromas of pineapple, lime cordial and lychee have good intensity, with crisp riesling acidity. Great with soft ripened cheeses.

Vintages Essentials 1578

GRANGE OF PRINCE EDWARD 2016 ALMANAC WHITE

88 points

Prince edward county $19.20 This white blend captures County leanness and minerality. Not highly aromatic or complex, but there are yellow apple, mirabelle plum, lemon and wet stone flavours. It is light-bodied, taut and almost crunchy. LCBO 516575

88 points

ROSEHALL RUN 2016 LIBERATED CHARDONNAY

88

points

ontario $14.95 Made from Niagara and Prince Edward County fruit, this is a light, crisp, nicely fresh, unoaked chardonnay with mild McIntosh apple, lemon blossom and bready notes, with a touch of enlivening spritz. LCBO 303776

Beamsville Bench $31.95 From a top house, this firm, tannic pinot needs a couple of years but it is structured, balanced and complex, with cherry-red plum fruit, dried herbs and forest floor earthiness.

The flavour depth is excellent.

Best 2019 to 2022. Vintages Essentials 274753

88

points

89 points

89 points

88 points

ontario $15.95 This is an organically grown blend of vidal, riesling and sauvignon blanc, created in a fresh, juicy, off-dry style. Expect generous aromas of lemon, honey and tropical pineapple fruit.

Nicely refreshing. LCBO 249078

niagara escarPment $17.95 This sports deep colour and ripe raspberry-scented fruit, with considerable oak, chocolate, resin, vanilla and smoke. It is mediumfull bodied, elegant, fairly deep and smooth, with very little cab franc greenness present. Age to 2019 for better oak integration.

LCBO 523001

88 points

twenty mile Bench $20.95 This light, pretty pinot shows ripe-cherry pie with subtle nutmeg, vanilla and smoky complexity. It is supple, fresh and easy drinking with a dusting of tannins. The length is very good.

Chill lightly. Vintages 1545

88

points

niagara Peninsula $14.95 This is a very good value in authentic cab franc that nicely shows the grape’s natural raspberry fruit, tobacco and herbal notes. It’s medium-weight, fairly plush and fleshy with good acidity and moderate tannins.

Chill just a little. Now to 2019.

LCBO 594127

niagara Peninsula $15.95 Trius has found the formula for intense sauvignon. This is a citrus salad of grapefruit, orange and lime, plus juniper and green nettle. It is fresh and zesty, although softened and warmed by a hint of sweetness and alcohol. LCBO 221804

THE FOREIGN AFFAIR 2015 CONSPIRACY

89 points

niagara Peninsula $19.95 This is a fragrant, juicy cabernet franc–based blend with complex aromas of raspberry, fresh dill and pickled red peppers. It is fairly smooth yet sour-edged, with fine tannins and a greenedged finish. Best to 2020.

Vintages Essentials 149237

HENRY OF PELHAM 2016 BACO NOIR

88 points

VINELAND 2015 CABERNET FRANC

88 points

niagara Peninsula $14.95 This was aged on its yeasts in stainless tanks, not oak barrels, so ripe yellow apple fruit, subtle florals and that hint of yeastiness are front and centre. It’s rich yet refreshing with breaded poultry and seafood. LCBO 594200

TRIUS 2016 SAUVIGNON BLANC

FLAT ROCK 2016 PINOT NOIR

TRIUS 2015 RED

niagara Peninsula $24.95 From an excellent Niagara vintage, this balanced, sturdy red needs cellaring. The restrained nose of raspberry and plum fruit, well-integrated oak resin, vague chocolate, tobacco and herbs is mindful of Bordeaux. Age for three years. Vintages Essentials 303800

88 points

CAVE SPRING 2015 CABERNET FRANC

MALIVOIRE 2016 GAMAY

niagara Peninsula $17.95 This is a light, juicy, fresh gamay (the beaujolais grape) with aromas of red roses, strawberrycherry jam and subtle woodsy notes. It is firm, tart-edged and refreshing. Chill fairly well and enjoy with charcuterie, poultry and ham. LCBO 591313

niagara Peninsula $14.95 This is a lovely, poised riesling with intense pear and peach fruit, plus hints of lemon and spice. It’s very fresh, fleshy and essentially dry. Excellent value at $14.95.

Chill very well for sipping and seafood pairings. LCBO 268375

SOUTHBROOK 2016 CONNECT

HIDDEN BENCH 2014 PINOT NOIR

90 points

PENINSULA RIDGE 2016 INOX CHARDONNAY

HENRY OF PELHAM 2016 RIESLING

ontario $14.95 Henry of Pelham has mastered the oddly beet-like and earthy baco noir, morphing it into a generous, plummy, floral and spicy red mindful of Côtes du Rhône. It is nicely rounded, a touch sweet with bracing acidity.

Chill lightly. LCBO 270926

WAYNE GRETZKY 2015 Nº 99 CABERNET MERLOT

88 points

niagara Peninsula $14.95 From a low-yielding but ripe vintage, this shows good structure, if not great density and length. Expect aromas of currant and berry fruit, mild leafiness and well-placed oak resin and vanillin. Firm and a bit tannic.

Best 2019 to 2023. LCBO 75689

Eating and Drinking 2018 toronto life 85

Bargains & Deals

88 points

YALUMBA 2016 THE Y SERIES VIOGNIER

Standout wines for $15 or less

South AuStrAliA $13.95 Great value from a viognier specialist, with a pure bloom that includes star anise, ginger, pineapple and lemon zest. It’s smooth and quite rich with a dry, warming finish. Chill well.

LCBO 470062

CONO SUR 2016 BICICLETA VIOGNIER

MARQUÉS DE RISCAL 2016 RUEDA

ColChAguA VAlley, Chile $11 Viognier from the south of France has found a home in Chile. This is a fragrant example with exotic starfruit, lemon blossom and licorice. It’s vaguely sweet yet balanced by tart lemony acidity.

Chill well. LCBO 64287

89

points

88 points

Chile $13.95 The Torres family of Spain makes fine organic Chilean wines. This sauvignon blanc delivers intense, complex flavours of fresh dill, mild jalapeño, mint, anise and Japanese pear. It’s full-bodied with firm acidity. Chill well.

LCBO 272609

87 points

90

points

89

points

SANTA CAROLINA 2016 MERLOT RESERVA

89

points

ColChAguA VAlley, Chile $13.10 This is a ripe, smooth and almost plump merlot with classic black raspberry fruit nicely balanced by roasted herb and meaty notes.

It’s quite full-bodied, fleshy and smooth with fine tannin.

Impressive value. LCBO 324590

SetúBAl, portugAl $7.95 Huge value for the price. This fresh, exotic, subtropical threegrape blend has star anise, lemon, mint and floral notes. It’s a touch sweet but finishes dry, with some bitterness. Chill well.

LCBO 377127

pAyS d’oC, frAnCe $12.95 There’s huge value in a deep, southern French blend of grenache and syrah by this leading producer. It has great complexity, with cherry and plum jam, florals, cured meat, licorice and pepper. Still youthfully tannic. Now to 2021. LCBO 470096

88 points

89

points

86 toronto life Eating and Drinking 2018

leydA VAlley, Chile $12.05 This ripe chardonnay punches above its weight with ripe pineapple, melon and hints of butter, spice and fresh herbs. It’s quite rich and balanced by fine acidity, delivered by the cooled Leyda region near the Pacific.

Chill lightly. LCBO 304022

QUINTA DA AVELEDA 2016 VINHO VERDE

87 points

portugAl $11.95 From the green hills of northern Portugal comes a light-bodied, dry and squeaky-clean vinho verde. It’s like biting into a granny smith apple—crisp, tart, juicy. This wine is lightly spritzed, with a salty tang. Chill very well. LCBO 89995

CUSUMANO 2016 SYRAH

89

points

THE WOLFTRAP 2015 SYRAH MOURVÈDRE VIOGNIER

WeStern CApe, South AfriCA $13.95 One of the great values of modern South African winemaking, it rings with syrah authenticity— steeped in smoky oak, cured meat, olive brine, dark cherry and soy sauce–like notes. It’s full-bodied and fairly dense, with some alcohol heat, firm tannin and good length.

LCBO 292557

WeStern CApe, South AfriCA $13.95 A hefty, unoaked blend of viognier, chenin blanc and grenache blanc delivers tropical melon, mango, honeyed and floral notes. It’s full-bodied, viscous and rich, yet nicely dry and firm.

Chill well. LCBO 292532

SANTA CAROLINA 2016 CHARDONNAY RESERVA

CHAPOUTIER 2016 MARIUS

FOWLES 2015 FARM TO TABLE CABERNET MERLOT

ViCtoriA, AuStrAliA $14.80 Great value from a cooler area of Australia. This a complex, wellstructured cab merlot with bright berry fruit, oak smoke, tobacco, menthol and peppery notes. It’s full-bodied, gently firm, rich and silky with fine tannin. Now to 2020. LCBO 436964

89

points

PERIQUITA 2016 WHITE

TORRES 2016 LAS MULAS SAUVIGNON BLANC

88 points

ruedA, SpAin $12.80 Rueda has long been the home of verdejo, a hot varietal in northcentral Spain. This light-bodied, dry and quite zesty white has lifted aromas of lemongrass, pineapple and vague spice.

LCBO 36822

THE WOLFTRAP 2016 WHITE

SiCily, itAly $13.55 A bright purple, young syrah that oozes classic blackberry, floral notes, white pepper and licorice.

It’s smooth, juicy style is delicious to drink now. Chill a little. Push the nifty glass cork up with your thumbs. LCBO 145490

BORSAO 2015 GARNACHA

88

points

CAmpo de BorjA, SpAin $11.95 A tremendous value, this soft, creamy garnacha from northeast Spain has been blended with tempranillo and cabernet sauvignon to bring structure. It has cherry jam fruitiness, with pepper, herbal and cedar accents.

Chill it a bit. LCBO 386961

wine

CAPARZO 2014 SANGIOVESE

88 points

tusCany, italy $13.95 This elegant, lighter chianti-like red captures typical sangiovese red currant fruit, florals and subtle meatiness. It flows nicely, with firm acidity and light tannin. Chill a little. Drink now through 2019. LCBO 361022

EMILIANA 2015 ADOBE MERLOT

88 points

LUCCARELLI 2016 PRIMITIVO

88 points

puglia, italy $10.95 Primitivo is the same grape as California’s zinfandel, and this example nicely shows its brambleberry, floral and subtle wood notes. It’s medium-full bodied, fairly warm, intense and sour edged with soft tannin. Now to 2020. LCBO 253856

87

points

88 points

Rhône Valley, FRanCe $12.45 This is an easygoing yet complex young red with notes that are typical of the southern Rhône Valley, including pepper, anise and meat. It’s initially smooth, with heat and tannin building on the finish. Best 2018 to 2020.

LCBO 263640

87

points

siCily, italy $8.95 Based on Sicily’s native nero d’avola, this mid-weight red offers fairly generous cherry-raspberry fruit, light mocha and vague peppery spice. A trace of sweetness is balanced by acidity and fine, dusty tannin. Chill a little. LCBO 74096

Mendoza, aRgentina $15 Traditional malbec styling gives full rein to savoury, cedary and black licorice notes—a result of aging 15 months in barrels. Fruit is very ripe, almost prune-like.

It’s full, thick and smooth with an earthy, leathery finish. Now to 2020. LCBO 234385

abRuzzo, italy $8.45 This rustic but complex red from Italy’s Adriatic coast packs a lot of flavour for under $10. Cranberry and currant meld with notes of Italian sausage, pepper, cocoa, clove and forest floor. It’s medium-weight, a touch sweet and warm with easy, dusty tannin. LCBO 621912

87 points

southeasteRn austRalia $11.95 Good, inexpensive pinot is rare.

This dandy example has good balance and complexity for $12. It has floral, confected cranberry and cherry jam notes flecked with cinnamon, mint and smoke. It’s light-bodied, smooth, a touch sweet yet balanced. Chill lightly.

LCBO 458661

87

points

86 points

WesteRn Cape, south aFRiCa $11.95 This hearty red delivers impressive structure and complexity for the money. Solid, dense and balanced, it has notes of dried currant, cherry, smoked meat and pepper. Tannins are firm and drying. Now to 2020.

LCBO 222299

LA BELLE ANGÈLE 2015 MERLOT

87

points

FRanCe $10.95 A new generation of well-priced, modern, new world–style wines is appearing under the Vin de France designation. This simple, pleasant, plum- and berryscented merlot is soft and easy to drink, with a touch of earthiness that defines it as French.

LCBO 470039

SANTOS LIMA 2015 BONS VENTOS

87 points

CESARI 2015 ADESSO MERLOT

Veneto, italy $7.95 Simple, plummy and floral, this merlot has a smooth, soft centre and a dry finish. There’s not much complexity (no oak) or depth at $8, but the excellent 2015 vintage has padded fruit ripeness. Chill a little.

LCBO 572453

Rhône Valley, FRanCe $13.70 This is a modern blend of grenache, syrah and mourvèdre, with lifted aromas of black pepper, currants, meaty notes and some fresh herbs. It’s medium-bodied and smooth with softening tannins. LCBO 441741

BOSCHENDAL 2016 THE PAVILLION SHIRAZ CABERNET SAUVIGNON

LINDEMAN’S 2015 BIN 99 PINOT NOIR

CAVALLINA 2014 NERO D’AVOLA SHIRAZ

86 points

88 points

FARNESE 2015 FANTINI MONTEPULCIANO D’ABRUZZO

LA VIEILLE FERME 2016 VENTOUX

87 points

LE CLAIRON DES ANGES 2015 COSTIÈRES DE NÎMES

TRAPICHE 2015 BROQUEL MALBEC

CANTINA DE NEGRAR 2015 CORVINA

Veneto, italy $9.95 Corvina is the principle grape of Valpolicella. This is a fuity, ripe edition—enhanced by a very good vintage. Expect cherry fruit, spice and herbal flavours set in a smooth, rounder style, with light tannin. Chill a little. LCBO 519199

Rapel Valley, Chile $12.95 This is a ripe, smooth, generous and organically grown merlot with plum and raspberry notes nicely balanced by roasted herb, meat and background oak.

Tannins are fine so enjoy now through 2020. LCBO 322024

lisboa, poRtugal $12 The fragrant, spicy castelão grape anchors this blend. It has pretty, complex cedary, blackberry fruit and leather aromas. It’s fairly dense, sour-edged yet smooth with fine dusty tannin. Best now to 2020. LCBO 462051

PASSION OF PORTUGAL 2015 RESERVA

86 points

lisboa, poRtugal $8.45 This hearty red blends two Portuguese varieties with syrah, thus the deep colour. Aromas of plum, black cherry, pepper and clove are appealing. It’s fairly smooth, sour-edged and dense with fine-grained tannin. Now to 2019. LCBO 146449

Eating and Drinking 2018 toronto life 87

wine

Gift Wines

ROEDERER 2009 CRISTAL VINTAGE BRUT

95 points

Bottles to give or cellar for a special occasion

BOUCHARD pÈRE & fILS 2015 pOUILLY-fUISSÉ

91 points

Burgundy, franCe $30.00 From a great vintage comes a rich, refined chardonnay, with generous, nuanced peach, vague almond and oak spice, honeysuckle, thyme and lemonblossom flavours. It’s rich yet still linear with some minerality.

Drink from now to 2020. Chill lightly. LCBO 56580

90

Sonoma CoaSt, California $27.95 Calm, cool and collected, this Sonoma chardonnay has notes of ripe peach, lemon, oak toast, vanillin and an underlying sense of evergreen. It’s medium weight, slim but sophisticated. Chill lightly. Vintages Essentials 608653

91 points

Veneto, italy $43.45 This lighter vintage of Masi’s Amarone impresses with precision and pillow-soft texture.

Complex flavours include dried cherry, fig, meaty notes, roasted chestnut and a touch of earth.

Rich and smooth. Best 2018 to 2022. LCBO 317057

93

points

91

points

91 points

napa Valley $119.95 This famous cabernet is very poised, with complex aromas and flavours of blackcurrant jam, oak chocolate, pepper, roasted rosemary, capers and nutmeg. It’s almost velvet with fine tannin, acidity and warming alcohol. Best 2019 to 2025. Vintages Essentials 710426

92 points

douro Valley, portugal $69.95 Twenty years in the barrel has given this sweet, fortified (20% alcohol) port a pale, tawny colour.

The bouquet is superb with maple walnut, prune, dried apricot, honey and wood spice. It’s smooth with a nicely bitter walnut finish.

Chill lightly. Vintages Essentials 149047

92

points

90

points

88 toronto life Eating and Drinking 2018

tuSCany, italy $105.95 Arguably Italy’s most famed red, this rich, refined sangiovese and cabernet blend intrigues with complex notes of raspberry, currant, roasted herbs, meat, vanillin and gentle smoke. It’s full-bodied, intense and rich yet sour-edged with firm tannin.

Vintages Essentials 986786

LOUIS M. MARTINI 2014 CABERNET SAUVIGNON

91 points

BATASIOLO 2013 BAROLO

piedmont, italy $29.95 This typically pale barolo offers a subtle, integrated nose of sour cherry fruit nestled amid forestfloor herbaceousness, leather and spice. It’s medium-full bodied, warming and smooth with the nebbiolo grape’s notorious tannin drying the finish. Best 2019 to 2023. LCBO 178541

loire Valley, franCe $27.95 This bright, fresh and complex sauvignon blanc has complex, tightly wound flavours of lemon, grapefruit, juniper, yellow peppers and granny smith apple.

It’s medium weight, crisp and juicy. Chill well. Vintages Essentials 542548

ANTINORI 2014 TIGNANELLO

TAYLOR fLADGATE 20 YEAR OLD TAwNY pORT

ZENATO 2012 AMARONE CLASSICO

Veneto, italy $52.95 Weighing in at a whopping 16.5% alcohol, this gentle giant couches its alcohol heat within a generous, cool note of ripe cherry jam, fine oak vanilla and spice. It’s fullbodied, dense and rich. Chill a bit.

Vintages Essentials 413179

marlBorough, new Zealand $35.95 This pioneering brand is a slim, balanced, dry and almost mineral sauvignon with notes of lemonlime, fresh herbs and guava. It’s mouth-watering, focused and well balanced. Chill well. Vintages Essentials 304469

Champagne $231 Dom is frankly overpriced, but naming one’s price is the prerogative of the world’s bestknown Champagne. It’s powerful and elegant with delicate mousse.

Mature flavours show dried straw, earthiness, walnut, lemon and dried pear. Don’t over-chill.

Vintages Essentials 280461

HENRI BOURGEOIS 2016 LES BARONNES SANCERRE

CAKEBREAD CELLARS 2014 CABERNET SAUVIGNON

MASI 2012 COSTASERA AMARONE DELLA VALpOLICELLLA

92 points

91 points

CLOUDY BAY 2016 SAUVIGNON BLANC

SONOMA-CUTRER 2015 RUSSIAN RIVER RANCHES CHARDONNAY points

Champagne, franCe $304.95 Cristal has a lovely bouquet of apple strudel, yellow flowers, almonds, vanilla and lemon. It feels light and airy, but there’s great acidity, structure and length of flavour. Don’t overchill. Vintages Essentials 268755

DOM pÉRIGNON 2006 VINTAGE BRUT

napa Valley $33.95 Many Napa cabs of this stature are three times the price. This cab sauvignon has blackcurrant, vanillin, cedar, oak resin and chocolate notes. It’s full-bodied, juicy and youthfully tannic. Best 2019 to 2025. Vintages Essentials 232371

MUGA 2013 RIOJA RESERVA

90

points

Spain $25.95 This rich, barrel-aged rioja shows dried fig and cherry fruit with tobacco, oak resin, coconut, vanillin and fine spice. The flavours are very complex and layered in this full-bodied, warm and tart-edged wine. Now to 2023. Vintages Essentials 177345

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SparklING WINES

louis RoEDERER BRuT PREMiER

94 points

Bubblies that will fizz up any festivity

92

points

91

points

ViCToiRE PREsTiGE BRuT

90 points

Champagne, FranCe $39.75 This base-priced Champagne delivers, with bracing acidity and a hint of sweetness. It’s light and frothy with a fairly complex nose of dried pear, lemon, toast and a hint of custard. LCBO 190025

niagara peninsula $29.95 Aged 12 months in the bottle, this dry bubbly has a mild nose of almond, lemon, vanilla and brioche. It is light-bodied and nicely lemony with a hint of sweetness, and a slightly pasty finish. Vintages 234161

89 points

88 points

Champagne, FranCe $59.95 Among the lightest, raciest Champagnes on the shelf, this one has an intense flinty minerality, with complex lemon loaf and baked-bread notes, and smokiness. Light-bodied, vivacious and quenching with seafood and shellfish.

LCBO 462432

niagara peninsula $29.95 This deep-pink pinot noir rosé was aged 30 months in the bottle.

It shows a fairly rich nose of raspberry strudel, icing sugar and some bready yeastiness. It’s mid-weight, firm and a touch sweet with bracing effervescence.

LCBO 217505

88 points

penedès, spain $13.95 This offers huge value: a very flavourful sparkler for under $15, with aromas of quince, green olive and almond. Some subtle breadiness as well. It’s light, firm and dry, with a slightly dusty finish. LCBO 370866

90

points

88 points

90 toronto life Eating and Drinking 2018

Champagne, FranCe $61.95 Expect generous dried apple, garlicky and earthy aromas. It’s medium-weight, flavourful and taut, with precise acidity and a slightly creamy texture. The length is excellent. LCBO 365312

CAVE sPRiNG BlANC DE BlANCs BRuT

90 points

niagara esCarpment $29.95 This is a light, fresh, balanced chardonnay-based sparkler, with generous baked apple pie, hazelnut and mineral flavours. A touch of sweetness with firm acidity. Nicely composed and at half the price of most blanc de blancs Champagnes. LCBO 213983

CHÂTEAu DE MoNTGuÉRET CRÉMANT DE loiRE

88 points

loire Valley, FranCe $19.95 This slim, well-balanced chenin blanc–based sparkler from the central Loire shows a touch of flintiness, with green apple, lemon and vague breadiness. It’s light, firm, dry and zesty. LCBO 217760

TENuTA sANT’ANNA PRosECCo EXTRA DRY

sPARR CRÉMANT D’AlsACE

alsaCe, FranCe $19.95 This pinot blanc–based, traditional-method sparkler shows flint, subtle bready character and ripe peach and banana fruit. It’s a softer, off-dry sparkler with a foamy mousse, fresh acidity and a fairly long fruity finish. LCBO 388603

Champagne, FranCe $102.95 This fine, mature vintage Champagne shows complex apple, almond, lemon meringue and brioche aromas. It is a light, elegant style: nicely creamy with very fine acidity. Excellent length expected at the price. Vintages Essentials 508614

TAiTTiNGER BRuT REsERVE

CAVAs Hill CuVÉE 1887 BRuT

sEGuRA ViuDAs BRuT REsERVA penedès, spain $15.50 This classic, perennially greatvalue Spanish cava displays olive, almond, green pear, light toast and lime aromas. It’s light, brisk and lively, with a slightly foamy mousse but a nervy centre, some softness and stony minerality.

LCBO 216960

93 points

HENRY oF PElHAM CuVÉE CATHERiNE RosÉ BRuT

JACKsoN-TRiGGs 2014 ENTouRAGE GRAND REsERVE

89 points

VEuVE CliCQuoT PoNsARDiN 2008 ViNTAGE BRuT

PiPER-HEiDsiECK BRuT

Pol RoGER BRuT REsERVE

Champagne, FranCe $67.45 This well-structured Champagne combines rich fruit and toasty brûlée and nutty notes. It is more voluminous than many Champagnes. It has presence and finesse with riveting acidity.

Excellent length. LCBO 217158

Champagne, FranCe $72.95 This classic—a mature lemon-gold Champagne with intense aromas of hazelnut, dried apple and aged honey—outperforms more expensive peers. It has power and intensity, very dry with firm, staunch acidity. Solid and so focused. Vintages Essentials 268771

88 points

Veneto, italy $17.60 This has a bit more character than many proseccos, with generous flavours of green apple, lime blossom and almond. It’s light with a hint of sweetness, yet nicely linear with good acidity and a vaguely mineral finish.

LCBO 388710

wine

Great Whites Affordable bottles from classic grapes and regions

ASTROLABE 2016 SAUVIGNON BLANC

90 points

THE NED 2016 SAUVIGNON BLANC

90 points

Marlborough, New ZealaNd $16.75 This is a well-composed sauvignon with grapefruit, subtle grassiness and gooseberry fruit.

It’s not showy, but very well balanced. Ideal for herb-crusted pork or salmon. LCBO 470070

rhôNe Valley, fraNCe $16.95 This fine blend of southern France varietals is a great alternative to chardonnay when you want a weighty, unoaked white. Shows almost tropical aromas of apricot, melon, white flowers, anise and a hint of pepper. LCBO 245340

89 points

89

points

89 points

89

points

SoNoMa CouNty, CaliforNia $19.95 Here’s a ripe, rich, exotic and complex oaked chardonnay with lifted lemon blossom, pine, butterscotch, peach and clove scents. It’s full-bodied, creamy, warm and spicy with a resinous note on the finish. LCBO 269738

89

points

CeNtral CoaSt, CaliforNia $16.15 Sterling has long championed sauvignon blanc in California.

This brings warmer-climate ripeness together with sauvignon’s grassy, dill flavours, plus tropical guava and star anise. It is full and fleshy yet balanced. LCBO 445783

89 points

88

points

burguNdy, fraNCe $18.50 It was a fine vintage in Burgundy.

This lightly oaked chardonnay offers cushy ripeness and richness with just enough buoying acidity. Expect peach and apricot fruit, honeysuckle florality, a hint of butter and oak spice. Quite refined. LCBO 51573

DOMAINE LAROCHE 2016 CHABLIS SAINT MARTIN

89 points

burguNdy, fraNCe $24.90 This taut, juicy chablis (unoaked chardonnay) opens with struckmatch flintiness then sports fresh lemon, green apple and a vague bready note. It is mid-weight, dry and quite elegant, with good viscosity. LCBO 289124

WOLBERGER 2015 “W3”

89

points

ANSELMI 2016 SAN VINCENZO

VeNeto, italy $16.95 The new vintage of this exotic blend is more sauvignon blanc– like with flavours of mint, evergreen, tropical pineapple and starfruit. It is medium-weight and delicate, with a blush of sweetness and good acidity.

Vintages Essentials 948158

okaNagaN Valley, b.C. $23.95 California chardonnay fans may like this B.C. offering even more thanks to its northern acidity.

This has a very generous nose of vanilla custard, pineapple, coconut and lightly toasty spice. It is smooth yet firm. Vintages Essentials 545004

BOUCHARD PÈRE & FILS 2015 MÂCON-LUGNY SAINT-PIERRE

STERLING 2015 VINTNER’S COLLECTION SAUVIGNON BLANC

WOLF BLASS 2016 SAUVIGNON BLANC

adelaide hillS & Mt. gaMbier, auStralia $15.95 This medium-weight, solid sauvignon is somewhere between New Zealand and California in style. It has quite fine, complex aromas of fresh dill, cucumber, guava, green apple and pepper, with a salty minerality on the finish. LCBO 611475

Napa Valley, CaliforNia $23.95 For fans of big, rich California chardonnays, this polished oakaged example has layers of ripe peach and cantaloupe fruit, buttered popcorn, sponge toffee and cashew nuttiness. It is creamy and sweetish with alcohol heat. Vintages Essentials 84988

CHATEAU ST JEAN 2015 CHARDONNAY

KUNGFU GIRL 2015 RIESLING

waShiNgtoN, uNited StateS $18.95 Washington’s early reputation was built on riesling. This has ripe flavours of peaches, honey, petrol and a gentle spice often found in better rieslings. It is midweight and just-off dry, yet balanced by fresh acidity.

LCBO 394759

90 points

BERINGER 2015 CHARDONNAY

CHAPOUTIER 2016 BELLERUCHE CÔTES DU RHÔNE

89 points

Marlborough, New ZealaNd $22.95 A textbook, intensely flavoured yet slim sauvignon, with complex flavours of passion fruit, guava, celery leaf, diced green pepper and lime. It’s very bright and squeaky clean, with tart acidity and a touch of enlivening spritz.

Vintages Essentials 10421

MISSION HILL 2015 CHARDONNAY RESERVE

alSaCe, fraNCe $15.95 This inventive blend is led by aromatic riesling and muscat, with pinot gris adding weight.

Intense orange blossom and lavender florality is joined by riesling petrol and pineapple fruit. It is off-dry yet nicely tartedged. LCBO 476929

BOLLINI 2016 PINOT GRIGIO

88

points

treNtiNo, italy $17.95 From the higher, cooler, subalpine Trentino in northern Italy, this fresh, balanced pinot gris captures peach fruit and wildflower scents associated with the Alsatian style, but with the liveliness and refreshment of Italian grigio. It is lively and sour-edged. LCBO 951319

Eating and Drinking 2018 toronto life 91

New world reds

CONCHA Y TORO 2015 MARQUES DE CASA CONCHA CABERNET SAUVIGNON

91 points

Modern classics from regions beyond Europe

CATENA 2015 HIGH MOUNTAIN MALBEC

90 points

Mendoza, argentina $19.95 The higher the altitude, the more fragrant and energized the malbec. This flagship is powerful and vibrant with intense blackcurrant, subtle thyme, clove spice and oak vanillin. It is fullbodied, warm and tannic. Best 2018 to 2022. Vintages Essentials 478727

90

Maipo Valley, Chile $19.95 Great value here in a cabernet that is very well structured and deep. Expect generous cassis, eucalyptus, oak spice and resin. It is dense, juicy and tannic, so age it a couple of years. Aerate if drinking now. Vintages Essentials 408658

90 points

89

points

90

points

Margaret riVer, western australia $21.95 The cooler Indian Ocean coast yields very fragrant cabernets.

This classic sports blackcurrant along with dried herbs and generous oak vanillin. It is thick with firm tannins and graphite minerality on the finish. Best 2018 to 2022. Vintages Essentials 606624

90 points

Clare Valley, australia $18.95 Wakefield creates intensely aromatic wines, so get ready for the drenching cassis, violets, menthol, smoke and chocolate flavours. It’s glass-staining purple and dense with tannic grit.

Best 2018 to 2022. Vintages Essentials 943787

89

points

south australia $19 Shiraz-cab blends are an Aussie specialty. This is dense and solid yet smooth, with generous flavours of blackberry jam, oak resin, cedar, menthol and spice.

Tannins are well balanced and there is a salty tang on the finish.

Now to 2022. LCBO 285544

89

points

92 toronto life Eating and Drinking 2018

sonoMa, California $25.95 California pinot is smooth, ripe and often delicious, with Pacificcooled regions like Russian River bringing refreshing acidity. This one revels in raspberry-cherry fruit with evergreen, vanilla, gentle oak and sweet baking spice. Chill lightly. Now to 2020.

Vintages Essentials 954834

MarlBorough, new zealand $17.15 Pinot is New Zealand’s principle red, making supple, generously fruity, often elegant wines. This good value captures strawberrycherry jam, fresh herbs, vanillin and gentle wood smoke. Chill lightly. Enjoy through 2019.

LCBO 416230

PORCUPINE RIDGE 2016 SYRAH

89

points

RODNEY STRONG 2015 RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY PINOT NOIR

89 points

okanagan Valley, B.C. $30.95 Very impressive aromatics of blackcurrant and oak vanillin mingle with B.C. sage. This wine is firm, composed and generous with a slightly green finish typical of cabernet. The length is excellent. Best 2019 to 2023.

Vintages Essentials 553321

ARA PATHWAY 2014 PINOT NOIR

PENFOLDS 2015 KOONUNGA HILL SHIRAZ CABERNET

RINGBOLT 2015 CABERNET SAUVIGNON

89 points

Barossa, australia $17.25 This is a dense Barossa shiraz, with very complex flavours of cranberry and blackcurrant fruit, menthol, quinine, black pepper, wood smoke and earth. Some green edge and minerality on the finish. Best 2019 to 2023.

LCBO 665471

Barossa Valley, australia $24.95 This young, purple shiraz offers up very pretty, floral aromas of peony with blackberry jam, vanilla, nutmeg and some charcoal. It is rich, smooth and supple, and nicely balanced, with quite fine tannins. Delicious. Now to 2022. LCBO 660043

MISSION HILL 2015 CABERNET SAUVIGNON RESERVE

WAKEFIELD 2016 SHIRAZ

GHOST PINES 2014 MERLOT

napa & sonoMa, California $19.95 California merlot should be almost luscious, and this fits the bill, with ripe, engaging flavours of blackberry jam, cedar, clove, mocha and violets. It is elegant, smooth and dense with a drier finish. Now to 2020 and beyond.

LCBO 454876

91 points

JACOB’S CREEK 2015 SHIRAZ RESERVE

SANTA CAROLINA 2014 RESERVA DE FAMILIA CABERNET SAUVIGNON points

Maipo Valley, Chile $22.95 From top sites in Andean foothills near Santiago, this is a dense, rich, complex cabernet with jammy blackcurrant fruit, cordite, cured meat, rosemary and chocolate aromas. There’s finesse despite its size and firm tannin. Best 2020 to 2025. Vintages Essentials 337238

TWO HANDS 2016 GNARLY DUDES SHIRAZ

swartland, south afriCa $15.95 South Africa is a leading source for great syrah value, especially the arid Swartland sub-region.

This smooth example carries complex aromas of charred wood, licorice, roasted herbs and stewed black cherry or olive. Now to 2021. Vintages Essentials 595280

WOLF BLASS 2015 YELLOW LABEL PINOT NOIR

89 points

adelaide hills & yarra Valley, australia $17.95 From cooler sites, this is a pleasant, carefully balanced and nicely ripe pinot with cherry fruit plus gentle oak toast, vanilla and vaguely earthy notes. It is soft and warm without resorting to sweetness or alcohol. Chill lightly.

Now to 2020. LCBO 611509

wine

ClassiC Reds

ANTINORI 2015 PÈPPOLI CHIANTI CLASSICO

90

points

Top picks from Europe’s major wineries

BOUCHARD PÈRE & FILS 2015 BOURGOGNE PINOT NOIR

89 points

Burgundy, France $19.95 The warmer 2015 vintage in Burgundy has plumped up this pinot noir, providing raspberrycherry ripeness, with subtle oak adding spicy, dusty, forest and herbal notes. Best 2019 to 2021.

LCBO 605667

89

points

89 points

89

points

89

points

VeneTo, ITaly $18.05 Ripasso, or re-fermentation using the skins of dried grapes, has created a rounded and wellbalanced red with generous cherry and floral notes plus subtle barrel spice. It is smooth, warm and rounded with mild tannin. Chill a little. Now to 2020.

LCBO 378091

89 points

Tuscany, ITaly $15.95 Named for the Tuscan estate owned by the Frescobaldi family since the 11th century, this sangiovese-merlot blend is cohesive and smooth with silky tannin. There is considerable oak, vanilla and spice amid the berry and currant notes. Best 2018 to 2021. LCBO 545319

89

points

Tuscany, ITaly $15.95 This sophisticated riserva—good value for the money—has been aged 24 months in oak, lending mature, woodsy, spicy and leather notes to sour cherry fruit. It is fairly smooth with alcohol heat and fine, dusty tannin. Now to 2020. Vintages Essentials 111641

89

points

PIedmonT, ITaly $14.95 Barbera is the tangy, tomato sauce–friendly grape of Piedmont. It’s smoothly textured with nicely cushioned high acidity and shows complex meaty and leathery notes, sour cherry and light, dusty tannin.

LCBO 372987

rhône Valley, France $19.95 This is a smooth, maturing grenache-syrah blend that captures traditional Rhône dried cherry fruit, faded roses, pepper and meatiness. It is smooth, warm and spicy with a drying finish. Ready to roll now. Vintages Essentials 259721

RUFFINO 2014 IL DUCALE

89

points

FONTANAFREDDA 2015 BRICCOTONDO BARBERA

88 points

Bordeaux, France $16.45 This is a mid-weight and elegant merlot-based red from Entredeux-Mers, a large region producing good value Bordeaux.

The ripe 2015 vintage has resulted in raspberry jam flavours with chocolaty oak, green cedar and spice. Best 2018 to 2020.

LCBO 152587

GUIGAL 2013 CÔTES DU RHÔNE

ROCCA DELLE MACÌE 2014 CHIANTI RISERVA

VILLA ANNABERTA 2014 VALPOLICELLA RIPASSO

89 points

PIedmonT, ITaly $23.50 This pale, rustic red shows earthy and barnwood notes, sour cherry fruit, anise and vanilla. It’s balanced and smooth, except for the drying tannin typical of the nebbiolo grape. Best 2018 to 2021.

LCBO 160143

rIoja, sPaIn $20.90 Long aging is the key here: this wine has been aged 20 months in the barrel, and another 18 in bottle. The result is a svelte texture and complex aromas of cedar, hazelnut, leather, vanilla and stewed cherry fruit. Best now to 2022. Vintages Essentials 50203

CHÂTEAU SAINT-GERMAIN 2015 BORDEAUX SUPÉRIEUR

FRESCOBALDI 2014 CASTIGLIONE CHIANTI

MONTECILLO 2011 RESERVA

rIoja, sPaIn $17.95 Mature rioja reservas are not a fruit-first experience. This example has prune and dried cherry, but nutty, weathered wood and roasted chestnut notes are prominent. It is nicely smooth and rich with refined tannins.

Best now to 2021. LCBO 621003

90

points

CASTELLO DI NEIVE 2014 BARBARESCO

FASSATI 2012 PASITEO VINO NOBILE DI MONTEPULCIANO

Tuscany, ITaly $20 From a small appellation in southeast Tuscany, this midweight, maturing sangiovese shows complex rosemary, thyme, leather, and roasted chestnut, plus oak vanillin and spice. It is fairly smooth with some tartness.

Enjoy now. LCBO 479451

Tuscany, ITaly $19.95 In this excellent vintage, Antinori’s flagship chianti achieves real poise. It is fresh, tender and nicely complex with gentle aromas of cherry, blackcurrant, fresh herbs, florals and spice. Fine tannin, so enjoy now to 2020. Vintages Essentials 606541

BERONIA 2012 RESERVA

Tuscany, ITaly $19.95 The wine behind this iconic, traditional label is surprisingly fresh and modern—a lean, juicy sangiovese-merlot blend with floral, minty, currant and raspberry aromas, plus meat and mushroom notes. It is balanced and firm yet not too tannic. Now to 2020. LCBO 27797

LOUIS JADOT 2015 COTEAUX BOURGIGNONS

88 points

Burgundy, France $19.25 A smooth, lighter-weight red with cherry and peppery notes, this new appellation allows blending of gamay and pinot noir. It has fine tannin and lively acidity.

Ready to enjoy now, lightly chilled. LCBO 383448

Eating and Drinking 2018 toronto life 93

index A Ace ..................................................................... 21 Ace Bakery ...................................................... 64 Actinolite..........................................................23 Adamson Barbecue ........................................ 19 Addisons Residence, The ..............................79 AF1 Caribbean Canteen ................................ 28 Afro-Caribbean Foods ..................................72 Aft Kitchen and Bar........................................ 19 Alimentari .......................................................72 Alo .....................................................................32 Ambiance ....................................................... 68 Amsterdam Brewhouse ................................ 82 Andrea’s Gerrard Street Bakery ................. 64 Anh Dao .......................................................... 62 Annette Food Market .................................... 42 Antler............................................................... 26 Ararat International Fine Foods ..................72 Archive .......................................................79, 83 Ardo ........................................................... 30, 42 Aria Ristorante .............................................. 42 Atlas ..................................................................56 Auberge du Pommier .....................................32 Avenue Seafood ............................................... 71 Awai ......................................................31, 44, 62

B Bacchus Roti ................................................... 28 Baddies ............................................................ 69 Bake Code........................................................ 64 Baker and Scone ............................................. 64 Bakerbots Baking .......................................... 64 Ballroom Bowl, The ........................................83 Balzac’s Coffee Roasters ............................... 69 Bambi’s .............................................................79 Bampot ............................................................ 70 Bandit Brewery ............................................. 82 Bang Bang ........................................................74 Banh Mi Boys ................................................. 62 Bar Ape .............................................................74 Bar Begonia................................................23, 36 Bar Buca .......................................................... 42 Bar Fancy ................................................... 21, 70 Bar Isabel ........................................................ 60 Bar Raval ................................................... 60, 67 Barchef .............................................................77 Barnsteiner’s ................................................... 31 Baro ...................................................................58 Barque Butcher Bar ..................................19, 66 Batch ............................................................... 82 Bean and Baker Malt Shop ............................74 Beast ..................................................................38 Beerbistro........................................................ 82 Bellwoods Brewery ....................................... 82 Bespoke Butchers .......................................... 66 Biff’s Bistro ......................................................23 Big Carrot, The ................................................72 Big Crow ........................................................... 19 Birreria Volo ........................................54, 77, 82 B. J. Supermarket ...........................................72 Black Angus Fine Meats and Game ............ 66 Blackbird Baking Company ......................... 64 Black Camel .................................................... 54

Black Dice Café ................................................79 Black Eagle.......................................................78 Black Hoof, The ...............................................23 Blood Brothers Brewing ............................... 82 Bloor Meat Market ......................................... 66 Boat, The ..........................................................78 Bobbette and Belle ......................................... 64 Bodega Henriette ............................................38 Bombay Chowpatty ....................................... 34 Bonjour Brioche ............................................. 54 Boralia ............................................................. 26 Bosk...................................................................38 Boutique Bar ...................................................78 Boxcar Social .................................................. 69 Branca ............................................................... 21 Brassaii Restaurant and Lounge ..................58 Bricco Kitchen and Wine Bar ...................... 42 Brock Sandwich .............................................. 71 Brothers Food and Wine ......................... 19, 23 Buca............................................................ 23, 42 Buca Yorkville ................................................ 42 Buk Chang Dong Soon Tofu ..........................52 Bunner’s Bake Shop ...................................... 64 Bunny’s .............................................................38 Burdock ............................................................78 Burger’s Priest................................................. 19 Butcher’s Son, The ......................................... 66 Butter Avenue................................................. 64 Byblos ...............................................................56 Bymark ............................................................. 31

C Cactus Club Cafe .............................................38 Café Boulud .....................................................23 Café Cancan ...............................................32, 54 Café Neon ....................................................... 69 Cafetería ...........................................................52 Campagnolo .................................................... 42 Campechano ....................................................52 Campo .............................................................. 42 Canis ................................................................ 26 Canoe ................................................................27 Capital Espresso ............................................ 69 Capra’s Kitchen .............................................. 42 Carbon Bar ....................................................... 19 Carens Rosedale..............................................23 Caribbean Corner ..........................................72 Cava.................................................................. 60 Caviar Centre................................................... 71 Ceili Cottage, The ........................................... 82 Celena’s Bakery .............................................. 64 Cellar Door...................................................... 42 Centre Street Deli............................................56 Centro Trattoria Formaggio .........................72 C’est What? .................................................... 82 Chabrol .............................................................32 Chantecler ....................................................... 34 Charidise ......................................................... 28 Chase................................................................ 60 Cheese Boutique..............................................67 Cheese Emporium ..........................................67 Cheese Magic ...................................................67 Cherry Bomb Coffee ...................................... 69 Cherry Street Bar-B-Que .............................. 20

Chez Nous ..................................................79, 83 Chiado...............................................................58 Chop Chop....................................................... 28 Chula .................................................................52 Chung King Garden ...................................... 28 Churchill ..........................................................79 Civil Liberties ..................................................77 Cliffside Hearth Bread Company ................ 64 Clinton’s ...........................................................78 Cloak, The ........................................................77 Cluny Bistro and Boulangerie ..................... 24 Cocina Economica ..........................................52 Cocktail Bar .....................................................77 Cold Tea ............................................................79 Colette Grand Café......................................... 24 Communist’s Daughter, The .........................79 Completo ..........................................................56 Conspiracy Pizza ............................................ 21 Copetín .............................................................38 Côte de Boeuf ............................................ 66, 79 Courage Foods.................................................74 Crown Princess Fine Dining ....................... 30 Cumbrae’s ....................................................... 66 Curry Twist .....................................................36 CXBO ......................................................... 64, 68

D DaiLo ................................................................38 Dakota Tavern, The ........................................78 Dandylion......................................................... 31 Daniel et Daniel ...............................................74 Dayali ............................................................... 30 De La Mer ......................................................... 71 Death in Venice ...............................................74 Delica Kitchen .................................................56 Delight ............................................................. 68 Descendant Detroit Style Pizza ................... 20 Desmond and Beatrice .................................. 64 Diana’s Seafood Delight ................................. 71 Dineen Coffee Co. .......................................... 69 Dolly’s Mojito Bar and Panciteria ................32 Doma ...........................................................30, 52 Don Don Izakaya ........................................... 48 Double D’s ....................................................... 20 Doug McNish’s Public Kitchen .................... 44 Drake Commissary ....................................... 40 Drake Hotel ..................................................... 40 Drake One Fifty ............................................. 40 Dr. Laffa............................................................56 Drupati’s.......................................................... 28 Dufflet Pastries .............................................. 64 Duggan’s Brewery ......................................... 82 Dundas Park Kitchen .....................................56 Dutch Dreams .................................................74 D. W. Alexander ..............................................77 Dylan, The ........................................................79

E Early Bird Coffee and Kitchen ..................... 69 East of York Gourmet Food Co. ................... 71 Eastbound Brewing Co. ......................... 80, 82 Eastside Social ................................................27 Ed’s Real Scoop ...............................................74

Eating and Drinking 2018 toronto life 95

index

Made to order ice cream rolls 21 BALDWIN STREET, TORONTO, ON. M5T 1L1

Edulis ............................................................... 24 El Almacen Yerba Maté Café ........................ 71 El Caballito.......................................................77 El Rey ................................................................52 Electric Mud BBQ .......................................... 20 Ella’s Uncle ..................................................... 69 Elm Hill Cookies .............................................65 Emerson .......................................................... 24 Emma’s Country Kitchen ....................... 56, 66 Emmet Ray, The .............................................79 Enoteca Sociale......................................... 22, 42 Epi Breads ........................................................65 Essence of Life Organics................................74 Estia ................................................................. 34 Estiatorio Volos .............................................. 34 Ethiopian House .............................................32 Eulalie’s Corner Store .................................... 21 Extra Butter .................................................... 69

F Fahrenheit Coffee .......................................... 69 F’Amelia .................................................... 23, 42 Famous Last Words .......................................77 Farina Plus.......................................................74 Farmhouse Tavern .........................................27 Farside ............................................................. 80 Fat Pasha ..........................................................56 Federal ............................................................. 24 Fiesta Farms .................................................... 71 Fifth and Terrace, The .................................. 60 Figo................................................................... 44 Flock Rotisserie and Greens .........................56 Flor de Sal ........................................................ 31 Folly Brewpub ............................................... 82 Food and Liquor ............................................. 80 Forno Cultura ............................................ 21, 65 416 Snack Bar.................................................. 80 Foxley............................................................... 40 Francobollo ..................................................... 44 Fresh from the Farm ......................................72 Fring’s...............................................................58

G

Made to order ice cream rolls 21 BALDWIN STREET, TORONTO, ON. M5T 1L1

Gabardine .................................................. 22, 71 Galleria Supermarket ....................................72 Gallery Grill at Hart House...........................56 Gare de L’est Brasserie .................................. 34 Gaslight, The .................................................. 80 Gem, The ......................................................... 80 George............................................................... 31 Gladstone Hotel, The ......................................78 Global Cheese ................................................. 68 Gloria ............................................................... 70 Glory Hole Doughnuts ............................ 65, 66 Godspeed Brewery .................................. 80, 82 Good Cheese ................................................... 68 Good Son, The ................................................ 40 Goods and Provisions ....................................22 Gourmeats .......................................................67 Grace Meat Market .........................................67 Graceful Vegetarian ...................................... 44 Grand Electric .................................................52 Greater Good, The ................................... 54, 82 Greg’s Ice Cream .............................................74 Greta Solomon’s Dining Room .................... 34 Grey Gardens...................................... 24, 28, 79 Gusto 101 .......................................................... 44 Guu ................................................................... 48

H follow us @arcticbites

Hale Coffee ...................................................... 70 Halo Brewery...................................................83 Handlebar ...................................................... 80 Hanmoto.......................................................... 48 Hanoi 3 Seasons ............................................. 62

Harry’s Charbroil .....................................32, 36 Harvest Wagon ...............................................72 Hawker Bar ..................................................... 60 Healthy Butcher, The .....................................67 Heisei Mart .....................................................72 Henderson Brewing Co. ................................83 Her Father’s Cider Bar and Kitchen ............22 Hi-Lo ................................................................ 80 Hitch ................................................................ 80 Hogtown Vegan.............................................. 62 Hokkaido Ramen Santouka ......................... 48 Holy Chuck ..................................................... 20 Home Baking Co. ............................................65 Home of the Brave .......................................... 20 Honest Weight ...........................................60, 71 Hooked ............................................................. 71 House of Tea .................................................... 71 Hugh’s Room Live ...........................................78 Hy’s Steakhouse and Cocktail Bar .............. 60

I Imanishi .......................................................... 48 India Bazaar ....................................................72 Indian Street Food Co. ...................................36 Indie Alehouse ................................................83

J Jabistro ............................................................ 48 Jackpot Chicken Rice .................................... 30 Jacobs and Co. Steakhouse ........................... 62 Jamie’s Italian ................................................. 44 Japango ............................................................ 50 Japanhako ....................................................... 50 Jelly Modern Doughnuts ...............................65 Jet Fuel Coffee................................................. 70 Ji .........................................................................36 Jimmy’s Coffee................................................ 70 John’s Chinese BBQ Restaurant .................. 30 Joso’s ................................................................ 60 Jules Bistro ...................................................... 34 Junction City Music Hall ...............................78 Junction Fromagerie ..................................... 68 Junction Local ................................................ 20

K Kaiseki Yu-Zen Hashimoto .......................... 50 Karelia Kitchen .............................................. 60 Katsura ............................................................ 50 Katz’s Deli and Corned Beef Emporium .....27 Kekou ................................................................74 Khao San Road ............................................... 62 Kiin................................................................... 62 Kingyo ............................................................. 50 Kinka Izakaya ................................................ 50 Kinton Ramen ................................................ 50 Kitten and the Bear .........................................65 Kohinoor Foods...............................................72 Kristapsons...................................................... 71 Ku-Kum Kitchen .............................................27 Kupfert and Kim ............................................ 44 Kwan Dim Sum .............................................. 30

L La Banane.................................................. 24, 34 La Carnita ....................................................... 54 La Cubana ........................................................32 La Diperie.........................................................74 La Palma.......................................................... 44 La Salumeria....................................................72 La Tortilleria ...................................................72 Lai Wah Heen ................................................. 30 Lake Inez ......................................................... 40 Lalibela .............................................................32 Lamesa..............................................................32

Lasa ...................................................................32 Le Baratin........................................................ 34 Le Select Bistro ............................................... 24 Leah’s ................................................................65 Lee .................................................................... 40 Left Field ..........................................................83 Legendary Horseshoe Tavern, The .............78 Leña..............................................................21, 31 Leslieville Cheese Market and Fine Foods.. 68 Leslieville Pumps .......................................... 20 Lil’ Baci ............................................................ 44 Little Sister .......................................................36 Lloyd’s on Queen............................................ 80 Lo Pan ...............................................................36 Local 1794 .........................................................22 Local Kitchen and Wine Bar .................. 23, 46 Loka ..................................................................27 Los Colibris ..................................................... 54 Louis Cifer Brew Works ................................83 Loveless Cafe ................................................... 81 Lox and Schmear ............................................74 LS...................................................................... 34 Luckee.............................................................. 30 Lucullus............................................................65 Lula Lounge .....................................................79 Luma ................................................................. 31 L’Unità ............................................................. 46

M Mabel’s Bakery ................................................65 Maha’s...............................................................56 Maison Fou Brasserie ................................... 34 Maisonette ...................................................... 68 Maker Pizza ..................................................... 21 Mamakas Taverna ......................................... 34 Maman............................................................. 70 Maple Leaf Tavern ............................. 22, 36, 48 Marben ............................................................ 26 Martin’s Bakery ............................................. 26 Matahari Bar and Grill ..................................52 McEwan ...........................................................72 Medium Rare ...................................................67 Memphis BBQ and Wicked Wings ............. 20 Menami............................................................ 50 Mercatto .......................................................... 46 Merseyside, The ............................................. 70 Mi Mi................................................................ 62 Mi Tierra ......................................................... 30 Midfield Wine Bar ..........................................83 Miku................................................................. 50 Mill St. Brew Pub ............................................83 Millie Pâtisserie ..............................................65 Mistura ............................................................ 46 Mod Club .........................................................78 Momofuku Daish ......................................... 40 Momofuku Noodle Bar ................................. 40 Momofuku Sh t ........................................... 40 Mon K Pâtisserie .............................................65 Montecito......................................................... 20 Montgomery’s ...........................................27, 38 Mother’s Dumplings ..................................... 30 Mr. Flamingo .................................................. 40 Muddy York Brewing Co. ............................ 80 Mulberry Bar...................................................77 Museum Tavern ..............................................22

N Nadège Pâtisserie ...........................................65 Nana ................................................................. 62 Nancy’s Cheese............................................... 68 Nature’s Emporium........................................74 Nigiri-Ya .......................................................... 50 Nirvana.............................................................36 Noorden ......................................................31, 40 North 44º.......................................................... 31 Northern Belle .................................................77

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index

Northwood ....................................................... 81 Nota Bene ........................................................ 40 Nu Bügel ...........................................................65 Nuit Social........................................................58

O Oddseoul ..........................................................52 Odin Café and Bar ......................................... 70 Olliffe ................................................................67 Omaw............................................................... 20 OMG Baked Goodness ...................................65 One Eighty, The...............................................77 Only Cafe, The .................................................83 Opus .................................................................. 31 Oretta ............................................................... 46 Oro.................................................................... 46 Ovest ................................................................ 46 Oxley ................................................................ 26 Oyster Boy....................................................... 60

P Pai..................................................................... 62 Painted Lady, The ........................................... 81 Pantry, The ..................................................... 68 Paramount Butcher Shop .............................67 Patchmon’s Thai Desserts and More ...........65 Patria ............................................................... 60 Peoples Eatery .................................................58 Peter Pan Bistro ............................................. 24 Petite Thuet .....................................................74 P.G Clucks ...................................................... 70 Pharmacy ........................................................ 81 Piano Piano ............................................... 20, 46 Piegus European Bakery...............................65 Pilot Coffee Roasters ..................................... 70 Pinkerton Snack Bar ................................22, 36 Pinky’s Ca Phe................................................ 62 Pisces Gourmet ............................................... 71 Pizzeria Libretto ............................................ 46 Planta ......................................................... 44, 62 Playa Cabana .................................................. 54 Playa Cabana Cantina ................................... 54 Polka European Deli ......................................72 Porchetta and Co. ..................................... 56, 71 Portland Variety ............................................ 60 Pow Wow Cafe.................................................27 Prairie Boy Bread............................................65 Prairie Girl Bakery .........................................65 Pray Tell ..........................................................77 Prettyugly ........................................................77 Public Kitchen ................................................ 62 Pukka................................................................36 Pusateri’s..........................................................72

Q Quality Cheese ............................................... 68 Queen and Beaver Public House, The ........ 26 Queen Margherita Pizza ............................... 46

R Rahier Pâtisserie.............................................65 Rainhard Brewing Co. ..................................83 Ramen Isshin ................................................. 50 Rasa .................................................................. 42 Real Jerk .......................................................... 28 Real Sports Bar and Grill ..............................83 Red Rocket Coffee .......................................... 70 Reposado ..........................................................78 Restoran Malaysia ..........................................52 Revere .............................................................. 46 Rex Hotel Jazz and Blues Bar, The ...............79 Rhino Bar and Grill, The ............................... 81 Rhum Corner .................................................. 34 Richmond Station ...........................................27

Rickshaw Bar ................................................. 42 Ritz Bar .............................................................78 Roast .................................................................67 Roof Lounge, The ............................................78 Rooftop at the Broadview Hotel, The.....54, 78 Rooster Coffee House .................................... 70 Rorschach Brewing Co. .......................... 80, 83 Rose and Sons..................................................32 Rosedale’s Finest Specialty Foods ...............72 Roselle Desserts ..............................................65 Rosen’s Cinnamon Buns ................................65 Round the Horn ..............................................83 Royal Beef ........................................................67 Rua Vang Golden Turtle ............................... 62 Rush Lane and Co. .........................................78

S Sabai Sabai ...................................................... 62 Salt Wine Bar.................................................. 60 Sam James Coffee Bar ................................... 70 Sanagan’s Meat Locker ..................................67 Sanko Trading Co. .........................................72 Sansotei Ramen.............................................. 50 Saulter Street Brewery ............................ 80, 83 Saving Grace ....................................................56 Scaramouche ...................................................32 Scaramouche Pasta Bar and Grill ............... 26 Scheffler’s Delicatessen and Cheese ............74 Schmaltz Appetizing......................................72 Seven Lives ......................................................27 Shanghai Dim Sum........................................ 26 Shirini Sara Pastry House.............................65 Shore Leave, The ............................................. 81 Shoushin ......................................................... 50 Sidecar ............................................................. 46 1602 ................................................................... 81 Skin and Bones ..........................................79, 83 Skippa .............................................................. 50 Skyline Restaurant .........................................32 Smith.................................................................78 Smoke Signals Bar-B-Q ................................. 21 Snappers Fish Market .................................... 71 Sneaky Dee’s ................................................... 82 Solo Sushi Ya .................................................. 50 Soma Chocolatemaker .................................. 68 Soos ...................................................................52 Souk Tabülè .....................................................56 Soul Chocolate ................................................ 68 Sovereign, The................................................ 70 Speducci Mercatto ..........................................72 Spice Trader, The ............................................74 Spin Toronto ....................................................83 Spirithouse.......................................................78 St. John’s Bakery .............................................65 Stack.................................................................. 21 Starving Artist ................................................56 Stasis Preserves Deli and Pantry .................74 Stockyards, The .............................................. 21 Stout Irish Pub ................................................83 Sud Forno ........................................................ 66 Sugar Loaf Bakery ......................................... 66 Sugo.................................................................. 46 Summerhill Market .......................................72 Sun’s Kitchen ...................................................27 Superpoint .................................................22, 58 Sushi Kaji ........................................................ 50 Sushi Nomi.......................................................52 Sweaty Betty’s ................................................ 82 Sweet Jesus.......................................................74 Sweet Olenka’s ................................................74 Sweet Potato, The ............................................74

T Takht-E Tavoos ...............................................56 Tallboys ............................................................83 Tempered Room, The .................................... 66

98 toronto life Eating and Drinking 2018

Ten Ren’s Tea and Ginseng Co. .................... 71 Tennessee Tavern .....................................22, 54 Terroni ............................................................. 46 Thin Blue Line Cheese .................................. 68 3030 .................................................................. 82 Thobors .......................................................... 66 Thompson Hotel Rooftop Lounge ................78 Thoroughbred .................................................58 Three Speed .................................................... 82 Tich ...................................................................36 Toca .................................................................. 46 Tokyo Smoke .................................................. 70 Tori’s Bakeshop .............................................. 66 Toronto Temperance Society ........................78 Track and Field ............................................. 82 Tre Mari ...........................................................72 Tutti Matti....................................................... 48

U Ufficio .............................................................. 48 Uncle Mikey’s ..................................................52 Union ............................................................... 26 Union Chicken................................................. 21 United Bakers ..................................................32

V Von Doughnut .......................................... 66, 67

W Walton, The .................................................... 82 Wayla ...............................................................78 Weslodge ..........................................................23 When the Pig Came Home ............................67 White House Meats ........................................67 White Lily Diner .......................................32, 67 Wickson Social................................................23 Wilbur Mexicana ........................................... 54 Wong’s Ice Cream ...........................................74 Woodlot ............................................................27 Woods .............................................................. 28 Woody’s ............................................................78 Wren, The ....................................................... 82

Y Yasu...................................................................52 Yonge Seafood Gourmet ................................ 71 Yukon, The...................................................... 82 Yummy Stuff .................................................. 66

Z Zaffron ..............................................................58 Zen.....................................................................52 Zucca Trattoria............................................... 48

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$23,695*

“CROSSTREKS LOVE GOING

TO THE COUNTRY FOR A D-R-I-V-E.” THE ALL-NEW 2018 CROSSTREK is at home in the city, but loves getting out to the country. X-Mode† handles challenging inclines and declines, and standard Subaru Symmetrical Full-Time All-Wheel Drive handles pretty much anything else. Add in high ground clearance with a low centre of gravity and your Crosstrek is up for fun, wherever it leads. Learn more at subaru.ca/crosstrek

*MSRP of $23,695 on 2018 Crosstrek Convenience 6MT (JX1 CP). MSRP excludes Freight & PDI of $1,725. Taxes, license, registration and insurance are extra. $0 security deposit.

Model shown is 2018 Crosstrek Limited Package CVT w/ Eyesight (JX2 LPE) with an MSRP of $33,195. Dealers may sell for less or may have to order or trade. Prices may vary in Quebec. Vehicle shown solely for purposes of illustration, and may not be equipped exactly as shown. See Owner’s Manual for complete details on system operation and limitations. †X-MODE™: Equipped in CVT models only. EyeSight is a driver-assist system which may not operate optimally under all driving conditions. The driver is always responsible for safe and attentive driving. System effectiveness depends on many factors such as vehicle maintenance, and weather and road conditions. See Owner’s Manual for complete details on system operation and limitations. See your local Subaru dealer for details. Crosstrek and Subaru are registered trademarks.