FIGJAM Magazine Vol.5

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Contributors FIGJAM Magazine Vol.5 Page

6 - 15: ‘Milano by Night’ by Alex Dani

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20 - 30: ‘Breaking Free’ by Leonardo Ramirez

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32 - 39: ‘Fresh Punch’ by Anja Ekstroem

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40 - 49: ‘Cheeky Femininity’ by Andrey Bieber

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52- 59: ‘A Queen’s Show’ by Olga Mastronardi

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60 - 67: ‘Flores Roses’ by Santiago Gonzalez-Jauregui

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68 - 75: ‘Downtown at Noon’ by Marco Rosettie

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76 - 81: ‘Come fly with me’ by Alexey Barinov

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84 - 89: ‘Being a Photographer’ by Elizaveta Filchenko

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90 - 99: ‘Lazy Mornings’ by Constaninos Tsiliacos

Page 102 - 107: ‘That’s my DNA ‘by Eric Chieze Page 108 - 115: ‘Sisters’ by Valeriya Savinova Page 116 - 123: ‘The Red Heering’ by Bogdan Merlusca Page 124 - 131: ‘Game of Shadows’ by Lena Di Page 132 - 137: ‘I Care’ by Katya Vituord Page 1 38 - 145: ‘One Day in Dubai’ by Natalia Gribova Page 146 - 153: ‘Raw Beauty’ by Hari JR Harichandran Page 154- 159: ‘Pocahontas’ by Margarita Podgurskaya Page 160 - 168: ‘Windblown in Faro’ by Fabrice Meuwissen

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~ Editors note: Welcome to FIGJAM Magazine Vol.5! We have had a longer than usual break because of Christmas, so for this time, it became a quarterly magazine, instead of the normal bi-monthly. However, that has given us more time to collect even better editorials from around the world, and of course to ponder our future as a magazine. What to we want to achieve, are we on track for our goals, and what is the end goal with FIGJAM Magazine. As we are now on FIGJAM Magazine Vol.5, I think its safe to say, that FIGJAM does get better for each issue. The amount of amazing creatives out there who are supporting us is phenonimal, and ....... surprising to be honest. We have of course also noticed the amount of magazines which accepts submissions these days is a bit over subscribed, to say the least. We have had a look at some of the magazines which we compete with .... they are generally much smaller, about 60 pages each issue, and still charge £30 per issue on McCloud. Not only that, they also charge the creatives to get published in them!! They sell it to the creatives because of their huge’ fake’ following on social media. Sadly, many people are not smart enough to see thru that old trick.

on an cold autumn evening in Milan, by the incredibly talented Italian photographer, Alex Dani. We also have a couple of very interesting articles in this issue, about the the ‘Puffer’ jackets, and how they have survived and divided fashion since 1938, written by our new talented new team member, Saloni Patel. Saloni also write about the multi-billion dollar beauty industry. An industry which of course was the Springboard for Kylie Jenner to become the youngest billionaire ever worldwide. Some of you might remember that we announced Emelie Stenman as our new fashion editor in the last issue. Unfortunately, due to time constraint, Emelie could not find the time needed to produce and make a magazine like FIGJAM, and decided to step down, so Emelie is no longer involved in FIGJAM sadly. However, as usual, we are (FIG)JAM-packed with amazing and very creative images from all around the world. If you have any suggestions, questions, stories for FIGJAM, or if you want to advertise, or simply have a look at our press pack, please do not hesitate to contact us. Hope you enjoy FIGJAM Vol.5! Till next time, keep being creative! ~ The editor!

FIGJAM is unfortunately not super huge on social media, but at least we are not trying to sell a fake story by buying 20 k followers, and the amount who follow us do grow every day ... organically. Just as it should be. We believe that the importance of instagram is getting smaller by the day, and its quite simply overhyped these days. It is a market which is in decline, because everyone is realising just how fake everything is on there. Everyone with a decent amount of followers, and you can be sure at least half of them are fake sadly. That changes the while market place, for bloggers, influencers, and ..... magazines like ourselves. Anyhow, winter is upon is, and even though the days are getting longer already and Valentines Day is getting closer, there is still some months till the enjoyable hot summer days which makes outdoor shoots much easier, atleast in Europe anyway. Paris Couture Week Paris have finished, and the normal FW shows wil take over as usual at the end of February. The super busy fashion season is open us once again, and we are infact on a countdown to summer. In this issue we are proud to have nothing less than 18 amazing editorials from around the world. We also have an interview with this issues cover model, Melina Menzel, who is giving us an interesting insight into life as a professional model and gives her tricks and Cover Photo by Alex Dani tips about how to stay in shape and what she hopes to Model: Melina @ Mapa MGMT achieve for the future. Melina was being photographed 5


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ILANO by Night Photographer: Alex Dani

Make Up: Nataly Bondar Stylist: Stela Plaka Clothing from Rosinina & FoxyLab Model: Melina @ Mapa Model Management

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Meet FIGJAM Cover girl, Melina We would like you to introduce yourself to our reader:

London. After some time of thinking and discussing this entire idea with my parents I signed with Mapa Model Hi everyone, I am Melina Menzel. Im an 18 years old Mod- Management, and that was the best decision I could have el from Berlin, Germany. made. I proudly can say that I am still signed with Mapa, Thanks for having me here today, I am really pleased. and so my entire career started rolling. I began with doing part time modeling aside to school until I graduated You are cover girl on this FigJam issue. How does that my A- level. I took placements during my summer vacafeel ? tions and after my graduation I was free to call myself a professional model. Well, so when my agent first announced to me that im going to be at the cover of FigJam, I was overwhelmed.It Do you have any advices to girls who wants to become really is an great feeling and I cant wait to finally hold the a model ? printed version of this Issue in my hands. Its my first cover shoot, so this one is definitely going to get a special Go For It. Get out of your comfort zone and try your luck. place of honour in my room. The fashion industry is always changing and you never know what kind of face they want to see next at their campaigns and covers. But be also aware of the fact, that Tell us about your Cover shot? Where and how was it ? the model business is a high competitive industry. There is no space for weak characters. Getting compared to The shoot took place in Milan, Italy. We shoot around the other models will be your daily reality. But as long as you Duomo of Milan which is an amazing location by itself. know that you are a unique Individual, and no one is ever This is how I already knew, that this shoot is going to be going to be you, you can totally rock that business. The great, before we even started. The entire team was lovely, right mindset will do a lot for you, and to a strong mindthe location impressive and the photographer more than set belongs also an high self-esteem. But if you decide just talented. I also really liked the styling, so I felt really to go for that way, you will figure that out by yourself comfortable and was in the best mood to rock this. The quickly. only struggle we needed to face, was the fact that the area around the duomo is a really touristy and a crowded place. There were lots of people which hindered, starred or commented at our shoot. But we just kept going for it, how a professional team should do and made the best out of it, with a bunch of patience. And i think, the final results are quite satisfying, or should I say stunning ? :)

“I want to do swimwear shoots for ‘FIGJAM’ and ‘Sports Illustrated’ on Malibu Beach”

What are your biggest achievements as model so far ? Well, first of all I didn’t give up haha, modelling is much harder as you would assume at the beginning. But joking aside, I am quite proud that I made it in a quite short time to places like London and Milan where fashion is home. I also worked for brands like Ice Watch, Kate Spade or Dickies which is quite an achievement for a newcomer.

Do you see yourself as a role model for younger girls ?

For a quite long time I about that, because I am also still really young, and I am still learning everyday myself. I think that the process of learning is also never going to stop entirely, but I already gained a lot of experience. My mother agent made me realise the role model thing, when he told me that the younger models of our agency are looking up to me. I confess, that this made me feel reHow did you start modeling ? ally proud and honoured. I thought about this a bit more and came to the realisation that I am going to influence Everything started with a small fashion show of design young girls in some kind of way. I may not be doing this students, which I was asked to walk for. It was in sumactive, but my images being around in the public phere, mer 2016, I was only 14 years old back then. One of the advertised at the internet or me seen on the runway and designers saw me, and asked if I would like to join the social media will influence people in some kind of way. show. At the beginning I did it more for fun, and to try So if I am going to be a role model to some girls or not, out something new. I did not had the intention to start a is a different question. But I am definitely sending out career out of it. So at the end of the show, I got one pic- influences. If younger girls want to follow them, is entireture of me walking the catwalk. Proudly I posted that one ly up to them. on facebook and it didn’t take long until the first agencies contacted me. But one of them seemed especially trustable to me, its name was Mapa Model Management 16


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How do you stay fit ?

used to, and that is exactly the problem. Most people worldwide are not even aware of how bad it plastic is for I could seriously talk for hours about this topic, because our environment. If the governments in the poorer counits quite complex, but I am going to cut it short. So batries showed educated their population to not waste and sically the mixture of a healthy and balanced nutrition to recycle everything we can, a lot of things would look and a strict training schedule is my key to success. The different. I think the big companies should encourage biggest hurdles we need to face here are regularity, disci- and facilitate the ordinary consumer by buying sustainapline and sacrifices. Nothing comes by itself, so you need ble products. We don’t need plastic wrapped cucumbers, to be super motivated and stick to your goals. I figured plastic cutlery to each take away, and plastic bags to out for myself that a mixture of cardio, yoga and strength each product. There are so many option and alternatives training guided me to the best results. I combined that already. It would relieve the environment so much, if we with a low carb nutrition, and reached my fitness goals. could integrate a more sustainable lifestyle to our daily habits. Do you have any secret beauty tricks ? How do you keep your skin perfect ? Stay hydrated. Thats the most important you can do for your skin. Settle for 2,5 -3 ltr. per day. Your skin will thank you. My personal skincare routine includes a peeling all 2-3 days and the daily luxury of argon oil on my skin before sleeping. Make sure you getting pure, organic argon oil, you can get it at the pharmacy or organic skincare shops. It helped me a lot to add a certain glow to my skin, minimise pores and deal with dry skin. But everyone has a different skin type, so my skincare routine might not fit for your kind of skin. What do you think about sustainable fashion movement ? It’s the right movement, just a bit late. In my opinion we should have brought this movement up way earlier. But better now than never right ? I recognise that sustainable fashion was a big topic at the fashion week here in Berlin as well. It is so important that we don’t just buy and wear clothes which fits to us, they should also fit to our environment. We got plenty of designs, but just one planet. So reducing the amount of plastic straws from our drinks, is just a small step, so why shouldn’t we try to integrate a more sustainable lifestyle at all levels. Recycling is a big topic in the fashion industry. The recycled collections at Berlin FW was incredible, none of the designs looked old, secondhand or like they were made out of trash. I saw fantastic collections with high-quality fabric, which fitted just wonderful. They there my favourites.

Do you follow the fashion trends generally ? Well, I wouldn’t say generally. If there is a particular trend which I like, I’m adding it to my wardrobe. I would describe my style as a big mixture of different kind of trends. You probably can find a bit of everything in my wardrobe from classy to cozy, from brand new to vintage. I like to mix up different things to create my own style. I dont a need to follow every single new fashion trend, when you can make one by yourself. But I am generally getting inspired from the latest fashion trends. Whats your favourite designer brand ? I honestly cant answer this question. There are a bunch of designers which are absolutely great in my eyes like Gucci, Off white, Versace… But in one season I might like Versace, and in the next season I’m more into the Gucci designs or something completely different. So I cant really name my personal favourite designer brand. If you could walk the runway for anyone ? Who would it be ? La Perla ! It would be such an honour to me if I could walk the runway for them one day in the future. Im so in love with their classy and elegant designs. Whats your dream as a model ?

I want to make a succesfull living for myself as model in LA. I would love to do the Guess campaign one day, Are you buying sustainable products yourself ? or do swimwear shoots at Malibu beach for ‘FIGJAM” and ‘Sports Illustrated’ what a dream. Thats what I am Yes definitely, Im trying as much as I can to leave only imagining and dreaming of before every gym session. a small footprint on our planet, but it’s not always easy, That is what motives me everyday to keep being the best especially when I’m abroad. Whilst living in Milano I went I can be. for grocery shopping. I bought my fruits and veggies as usual, put them on the scale and sticked the tag on Melina, thank you kindly from the whole FIGJAM Team, them. Later on at the checkout the cashier told me to it was great to get to know a little bit more about you, take a plastic bag for each product, and not to just put and we will follow your progress with excitement. We them all together in my bag. I tried to explain to her, how wish you all the best for the future. bad this actually is, and that they could reduce so much plastic if they just would use paper bags. But the cashier Melina is on instagram: @melina.mnzl did not understand, because thats now what she was 17


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REAKING FREE

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Photographer: Leo Ramirez Make Up: Daniel Duarte Styling: Clo Reyna Model: Irene @ Queta Rojas


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All that shimmers is luxury! ‘The rise of a billion dollar beauty industry’ In 2014, a 17-year-old Kylie Jenner decided on using her childhood insecurity over her lips to create her own liquid lipstick and matching lip liner. She started production with only 15,000 ‘lip kits’ using $250K saved from her early modelling career. In 2015, when the kits finally debuted on her website, they sold out in a minute, crashing the website and creating one of the biggest splashes in the beauty world.

lighter palette than a couple of wine bottles. The glow is forever, the buzz isn’t.” This phenomenon has become so popular around the world, that it has been named the ‘Lipstick Effect’. Coined during the Great Depression, the Lipstick Effect periodically sees consumers spend more on beauty products despite sluggish times. The effect has come into play every time that the economy has slowed down, turning the beauty industry into one of the few ‘recesLess than five years later, one of the largest beauty com- sion-resistant industries’, as said by Investopedia. panies in the world, Coty, bought a 51% share in the company for $600 million. In 2018, Forbes named Kylie The Lipstick Effect is the theory that suggests that Jenner the youngest ‘self-made’ (which was widely during a slowdown, people will be more inclined to buy debated) billionaire, largely due to the success of Kylie less costly luxury goods to fulfil their luxury indulgences. Cosmetics. She reached her billionaire status at 21, a full During an economic slump, women are more likely to buy two years younger than when Mark Zuckerberg when hit a luxury lipstick over a bespoke designer gown. Likewise, the mark, riding on the profits of a company that began people will pick an Audi over a Ferrari, wherein both are with a simple lipstick. It was one of the first companies luxury cars, but Audi is less expensive. People will also to have made such a large impact through just social want to treat themselves so they can forget about their media and influencer and celebrity marketing. problems, both financial and otherwise. Leonard Lauder, the chairman of Estée Lauder, noted that following the terrorist attacks of September 2001, his company sold more lipsticks than usual. When the economy is shaky, he said in an interview, sales increase as women boost their mood with inexpensive lipstick purchases instead of $500 slingbacks.

“The Lipstick Theory is just that, a theory.”

According to the British Beauty Council, the beauty industry contributed £28.4 billion to the UK GDP in 2018, which amounted to almost the entire economic activity of Manchester. Of this, £14.2 billion was from direct sales and services in the industry while the rest was from the wages of those employed in the industry and other indirect means. GlobalData, a market research firm, revealed that ​ health and beauty was now the retail industry’s fastest-growing sector, and was forecast to grow by 16.5 per cent until 2023. These rising figures come against the backdrop of a global economic slowdown.

However, the Lipstick theory remains just that, a theory. It has garnered a lot of discussion and criticism, with economists unwilling to use lipstick as an indicator and often, unable to prove the correlation between the economy and the lipstick sales. In the past five​years, the beauty industry has grown by leaps and has branched out into experiences. Stylist’s Live and the Glamour Beauty Festival are just two examples of this.

“the beauty industry contributes more to GDP than motor manufacturing”

“Harrods is my stress buster and my go-to when I’m bored. After every exam, I take a trip to a beauty department store” said Ruchi Singh Vasudev, 26, an MA student Whether it is the Lipstick Effect, the influence of ‘Beauty at University College London. Not surprisingly, she want- Gurus’ and social media, expansion into experiences, or the trend of paying attention to one’s general wellbeing, ed to meet at Harrods. the beauty industry is on an upward trajectory. According to the Telegraph, the industry is now worth £30 billion in “I do a lot of online shopping too, and usually go for the UK, contributing more to the GDP than motor Sephora when ordering from the States. There’s something about buying makeup and skincare that’s... almost manufacturing or publishing. therapeutic.” she mused as she ran her index finger For an industry that can be traced back to Cleopatra across a row of highlighters, pausing to swatch one on lining her eyes with kohl in a dramatic wing, the $532 her inner wrist. billion annual worth of beauty world is big business, and Ruchi is an international student, which limits her financ- it is all set to become even bigger in the coming years. es greatly. “I know I have to be careful, but a girl deserves ~ by Saloni Patel. a treat every now and then! I would rather buy a high31


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Photographer: Anja Ekstroem Make Up & Hair: Lisa Kroh Model: Cecelie Dissing Retouching: Stef Nazarenko


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heeky Femininity Photographer: Audrey Bieber

Model: Virginie Keke Retouching: AD Studio retouch

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Queen’s show Photographer: Olga Mastronardi Stylist: Julia Poukh Model: Anna Pas


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lores Roses

Photographer: Santiago Gonzalez-Jauregui

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owntown at Noon Photographer: Marco Rossetti

Model: Li Shirui @ Wave Model Management

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ome fly with me

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Photographer: Alexey Barinov


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eing a Photographer Photographer: Elizaveta Filchenko

Make Up: Maria Venger Stylist: Valeria Ananyeva Model: Sofia Nekhaeva @ IQ Models

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Top: IRO Paris Underwear: Love Stories

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azy Mornings Photographer: Constantinos Tsiliacos Photo Production: Nicolas Exarchos

Photo Assistant: Myrto Make Up & Hair: Julie Alexander Model: Ann Sophie @ Fashioncult Retouching - Maria Tachtsi

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Bralette: Love Stories Skirt: IRO Paris

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Lingerie from Jade V Tales Boutique

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Bra: Love stories

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Top: Iro Paris from Jade V Tales Boutiques

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Top: La Petite Francaise Lingerie: Love Stories

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Top & Bra from Jade V Tales Boutique

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A ‘Puffed’ Situation “How a trend united and divided the world” First created in 1936 with down feathers in quilted fabric, the puffer jacket has gone through an extensive journey of love and hate to evolve into becoming the talk of the town with Moncler’s puffer gowns. The following year, English-American fashion designer Charles James used a similar quilted fabric to add style to a satin white silk jacket that made its way into Harper’s Bazaar’s October 1938 edition. Then created out of pure necessity to fight hypothermia mid-winter, the puffer jacket is now part of almost all wardrobes, transcending across age, gender and even race. Hey, Rihanna’spuffers transcend even seasons, sporting the trend in summer by allowing it to fall off her shoulders for style. It is, perhaps, the only fashion trend that my dad has in common with her. Talking about the popularity of this trend amongst celebrities and the wealthy,

street and the wardrobes of the people. By the end of 2018, Lyst, a search engine that tracks what people buy, reported a 59% rise in the year-onyear rise of the demand for puffer jackets. To that end, a puffer jacket by The North Face was declared the second most desirable product in the world, losing the top spot to Niketrainers. According to online retailer Net-a-Porter (NAP), the puffer jacket sales went up by 41 per cent in 2018, making it one of the most popular items on their site. However, what nobody predicted was the use of puffer jacket to create a class and social divide in Korea. The phenomenon started a few years ago but was then centred around jackets from The North Face. “They’re often referred to as “spine breakers,” because “parents’ [financial] backbones are ‘broken’ by having to buy these ridiculously high-priced jackets for their children,” said Celine Hong, a Korean photographer and videographer for Korea’s top fashion and lifestyle magazines.

Andrew Luecke, a fashion historian, said “The function attracts the From there, middle and wealthy, who imbue high school students the puffer with lifestyle started adopting the trend status, then other to catch abreak from the subcultures pick up on same uniform everyone that.” Cut to 2019 and wore in schools. down feather padding has made its way to Each decision one made full-length ball gowns! in regards to the jackThough the trend has et, whether it was the seen its ups and downs brand, colour, or style, Balenciaga Red Puffer jacket AW 16 since ‘38, its revival in symbolised a certain the past decade didn’t social subgroup, similar to catch on as fast as one would think. In 2016, designer playground hierarchies. In sharp contrast to the economDemna Gvasalia brought an eye-catching red padded ic success stories that Korea has penned, there exists a jacket to his Balenciaga debut show, styled off-shoulder huge income disparity amongst​the people. over a top embellished with crystals. It made a statement, but nothing more. In a scenario such as this, anything that even remotely reflects affluence becomes a Come 2017 and the puffa made it to the ramp again. And symbol of status. again the following year. Only then did fast fashion work its magic and the designs made their way into the high The popularity of K-pop and Korean TV dramas have only 100


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added fuel to the fire. These have gathered a mass folto showcase the designs. lowing around the world, so when the boy-band BTS step out in knee-length The collection raised many eyebrows until Shailene Woodley stepped out in one of the designs for the 2019 Puma puffer jackets, they sell like hotcakes. Puffer jack- Fashion Awards and Ezra Miller wore a black puffer gown ets are the new diamonds in Korea. In the UK, starting to the premiere of his film ‘Fantastic Beasts: The Crimes from £11 at Primark for their colourful slim puffer jackets of Grindelwald’. In no time at all after that, the styles sold to more than £6000 for a Burberry special, there’s a out at Moncler’s e-store. puffa for all budgets and purposes. Practical protection against the blood-freezing England rain and winds, “The function attracts the wealthy, who more and more people are reaching for this fashionable imbue the puffer with lifestyle status” garment when stepping out. “There’s been a massive interest in making functional cool again,” says celebrity By the end of the year, Moncler, the reigning king of all stylist Alex Longmore. things puffer, has had the last laugh. Even the long puffer Ruchi Singh Vasudev, an international student at London gloves, which were priced over £1000, sold out on the website. And if humanwear wasn’t enough, they even Film School, wasn’t very keen on investing in one but quickly changed her mind. “Honestly, puffer jackets are have puffer jackets for dogs! Unusual for trends in this ugly. No matter how colourful or stylish you make them, industry, puffer jackets, and now puffer wear has manthey still look like you’re walking around in a duvet. But, aged to stay a staple for the people since their concepthey seem to be the only thing that can keep you warm in tion. There may be other reasons, but the simplest of London. In the end, comfort won over fashion,” she said. them stems from the practical nature of the jackets. In February 2019, celebrity go-to brand for puffer jackets, Moncler, collaborated with Valentino’s Pierpaolo Piccioli to create a line of puffer couture gowns for Milan Fashion Week. The collection used eight Ethiopian artists from model Liya Kebede’s ethical fashion brand, Lemlem,

There is unity in the need for protection against the harsh cold as well as practical fashion solutions and yet, the labels and designs divide us in that very unity. ~ by Saloni Patel.

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Make Up: Micka Zanudio Styling: Lilou Wa Raja S Model: David Jandia

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Sisters

Photographer: Valeriya Savinova

Fashion Desinger: Yana Lazareva Make Up: Katerina Shugurova Model: Agniya Shugurova Model:s: Milana, Polina & Nastya @ The Fashion Lab

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he Red heering Photographer: Bogdan Merlusca

Stylist: Robert Moraru Make Up: Raluca Cracium Hair: Sebastian Sarghie Model: Diana Noje @ Mandarina Models

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Dress: Stylist’sown Hat: Ionut Dimache

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Dress from Zara

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Sweater: Consignatia 7 Dress: Teodora Bodescu

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Photographer: Lena Di Make Up: Charlotte Tilbury Model: Priscilla Retouching: Alina Belova


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Photographer: Katya Vituord Producer: Kseniya Shabalina Model: Vlad Mashukov @ T-models agency Hair & Make Up: Margarita Mikryukova Retoucher: Juli Nazarova Styling: Elena Chernoyarskaya


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aw Beauty Photographer: Hari JR Harichandran

Make Up: Maria Fournier Styling: Karina Milavina & Anna Baris Model:Sasha @ Tangerine Models

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ocahontas Photographer: Margarita Podgurskaya

Model: Zhanna Nurmuhametova Make Up: Darya Nekrasova

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indblown in FARO Photographer: Fabrice Meuwissen

Model: Mayliss @ City Models Paris

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