A Pilgrim's Guide to the Camino Inglés & Camino Finisterre (2020 edition) excerpt

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A PILGRIM’S GUIDE TO THE

Camino Inglés

&

Camino Finisterre including the Muxía Circuit

A Practical & Mystical Manual for the Modern-day Pilgrim John Brierley

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© John Brierley 2020 First edition published in 2016. Includes revised elements from A Pilgrim's Guide to the Camino Finisterre (first published in 2001).

ISBN 978-1-912216-12-3 All rights reserved. The contents of this book may not be reproduced in any form, except for short extracts for quotation or review, without the written permission of the publisher.

British Library Cataloguing-in-Publication Data.

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

All maps & Photographs © John Brierley & Gemma Brierley 2020 Introducción: Traducción española: Lanzada Calatayud Alvarez

121

Einführung: Deutsch ubersetzung: Hannah Albrecht

123

Introduzione: Traduzione italiano: Monica Sandra Lista Rodriguez

125

Introductie: Nederlandse vertaling: Hans Lankhaar

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Printed and bound in the European Union Published by CAMINO GUIDES An imprint of Kaminn Media Ltd Delft Cottage, Dyke Forres IV36 2TF Scotland Tel: +44(0)1309-690582 Fax: +44(0)131-777-2711 Email: info@caminoguides.com www.caminoguides.com

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CONTENTS:

Map Symbols & Introduction

3

4-8

Preparation

11

Inner Waymarks

12

Galicia – History, Culture, Mythology

14

Camino Inglés

20

1 – 6 Ferrol – Santiago 119.3 km

22 - 49

A Coruña City Information

50

1a A Coruña – Santiago 75.8 km

52

Santiago City Information Camino Finisterre

56 - 59 60

01 – 03 Santiago – Finisterre 86.2 km

62 – 83

Finisterre Town Plan & Myths & Legends

83 - 95

04 – 07r Finisterre – Muxía – Santiago 115.4 km

96 – 109

Muxía Town Plan & Myths & Legends

05a – 03a Muxía – Finisterre – Santiago 114.3 km

100 - 102 110 – 113

Returning Home: Reflections

114

Internet Addresses / Bibliography

116

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Map Legend: Symbols used in this guide: 4 Total km 850m Alto

<

A H

>

3.5

50m > / ^ / <

N-11 A-1

Total distance for stage map Adjusted for climb (100m vertical = additional 0.5km) Contours / High point of each stage Intermediate accommodation (often less busy / quieter) Precise distance between points (3.5 km = ± 1 hour) Interim distances •50m turn right> / s/o=straight on^ / <left c.=circa (about) / adj.=adjacent / incl.=including Natural path / forest track or gravel senda Secondary road (grey: asphalt) / Roundabout rotonda Main road [N-] Nacional (red: additional traffic and hazard) Motorway autopista (blue: conventional motorway colour) Railway ferrocarril / Station estación The Inner Path of soul that turns a hike into a sacred journey Main route (yellow: ± 80% of pilgrims) Scenic route (green: more remote / less pilgrims) Optional detour desvío (turquoise) to point of interest Alternative road route (grey: more asphalt)

?

! x

X

/ / / m

F

menú

i

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XII A 1

J

H H

P

C

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[32 ] [ ÷4]+ Par. Conv.

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Xunta Asoc.

Priv. (*)

(Pop.–Alt. m)

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Crossing cruce / Option opción / Extra care ¡cuidado!

Windmill / Viewpoint punto de vista / Radio mast National boundary / Provincial boundary límite provincial River río / Stream arroyo Sea or lake Mar o lago / Woodland bosques Church iglesia / Chapel capilla / Wayside cross cruceiro Drinking font fuente agua potable / Café / Shop minimercado menú peregrino 3 course meal + wine / V. Vegetariano Tourist office turismo / Manor house casa señorial / Picnic Pharmacy farmacia / Hospital / Post office correos Airport / Bus station estación de autobús / gasolinera Ancient monument / 12th century Pilgrim hostel(s) Albergue / Youth hostel Juventude Hotels H-H****€30-90 / Pension P*€20+ / B&B CR €35+ (off route accommodation alojamiento fuera de ruta) Number of bed spaces (usually bunk beds literas) ÷ number of rooms / + additional private rooms €20+ Parish hostel Parroquial donation / €5 Convent or monastery hostel donativo / €5 Municipal hostel €5+ Galician government Xunta hostel €6 Association hostel €7+ Private hostel (network*) €10-15 Average prices (low season) for comparison purposes only Town plan plan de la ciudad with page number Town population and altitude in metres City suburbs suburbios de la ciudad (grey) Historical centre centro histórico (brown)

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INTRODUCTION

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Introduction: There is too much paraphernalia in our lives – in an effort to lighten the load we have produced this slim hybrid edition. This has been made possible by the selfless work of pilgrim associations that have waymarked the route such that, today, we need only the barest information to get us to our destination. It would be difficult to get lost if we remain present to each moment and attentive for the yellow arrows that point the way to Santiago and Finisterre – mindfulness is the key. Take time to familiarise yourself with the map symbols opposite.

The standard and cost of pilgrim accommodation ranges from Xunta hostels offering basic facilities from €6 (no prior booking) to private hostels from €10+ but often with additional facilities such as washing machines lavadoras and dryers secadora - the latter a real boon in wet weather. The cost of hotels also varies widely depending on season; many offer a pilgrim discount but ask before booking. A basic 3 course meal with wine menú peregrino costs around €9.

The multilingual maps recognise the international fellowship of the camino. This helps to foster a sense of camaraderie and communion; a shared spiritual intention that lies at the heart of pilgrimage. It is this transcendent focus that distinguishes pilgrimage from long distance walking. If you require detailed notes on preparation source an appropriate guidebook such as the companion book A Pilgrim’s Guide to the Camino Francés.

All of us travel two paths simultaneously; the outer path along which we haul our body and the inner pathway of soul. We need to be mindful of both and take time to prepare ourselves accordingly. The traditional way of the pilgrim is to travel alone, by foot, carrying all the material possessions we might need for the journey ahead. This provides the first lesson for the pilgrim – to leave behind all that is superfluous and to travel with only the barest necessities. Preparation for the inner path is similar – we start by letting go of psychic waste accumulated over the years such as resentments, prejudices and outmoded belief systems. Walking with an open mind and open heart allows us to assimilate the lessons to be found along this ancient Path of Enquiry.

We have been asleep a long time. Despite the chaotic world around us, or perhaps because of it, something is stirring us to awaken from our collective amnesia. A sign of this awakening is the number of people drawn to walk the caminos. The hectic pace of modern life, experienced not only in our work but also our family and social lives, spins us ever outwards away from our centre. We have allowed ourselves to be thrown onto the surface of our lives – mistaking busy-ness for aliveness, but this superficial existence is inherently unsatisfying.

Pilgrimage offers us an opportunity to slow down and allow some spaciousness into our lives. In this quieter space we can reflect on the deeper significance of our lives and the reasons why we came here. The camino encourages us to ask the perennial question – Who am I? And, crucially, it provides time for answers to be understood and integrated. So don’t rush the camino – take the time it takes because it may well prove a pivotal turning point in your life.

Whichever route we take, our ultimate Destination is assured. The only choice we have is how long it takes us to arrive. Buen camino...

John Brierley

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Map Legend: Once you are familiar with the map symbols you should be able to easily find your way. Unlike conventional maps you always follow in the direction of the page so that everything appears automatically on your left or right. Contour guides are also shown for each day’s walk. This will give you an impression of the day’s terrain and help you prepare for the uphill stretches and anticipate the downhill ones. They are drawn to an exaggerated scale for emphasis. In addition to actual distance an adjusted distance is also provided based on the cumulative height climbed during each stage. This equates to the additional effort and time necessary to walk the stage over and above that required if it were purely a level walk. Remember that your normal walking pace (an average is 1 km in 20 minutes or 3 kph) will decrease, often substantially, towards the end of a hard day’s walk. Abbreviations: s/o = straight on / c. = circa (about) / adj. = adjacent / incl. = inclusive / imm. = immediately / para. = parallel Waymarks: Thanks to the efforts of the Galician associations waymarking along the more remote paths along the camino Inglés and Finisterre are much improved but there are relatively few other pilgrims to follow and while hopefully you have enough Castellano (perhaps Galego?) to be able to converse with the rural community you will need to be careful when asking directions as locals are not generally familiar with the waymarked paths through the woods but will direct you along the public roads. Optional routes are also shown which can provide a more reflective path along ‘the path less travelled’. The criteria is to minimise the amount of time spent on asphalt which is so hard and tiring underfoot. Finding your way is complicated by the fact that the route has been altered many times over the years and is now waymarked in both directions – stay focused!

N

Sun Compass: provided as an aid to orientation. Even in poor weather we can generally tell the direction of the sun so, for example, if you are travelling from Finisterre to Muxía the route is mostly due north. Early in the morning the sun will be in the east and therefore on our right-hand side. If you suddenly find yourself walking with the sun O on your left – stop and make sure you are not following Puesta arrows back to Finisterre! We can also use this compass del Sol E Salida as an aid to understanding the anthropocentric tendency del Sol to identity ourselves as being at the centre of the universe.

S We say that the sun rises in the east because that is our experience but of course it is the earth turning on its axis that turns us towards the sun in the morning and away from it at night. This is more than semantics – the very thought used to be a heresy punishable by death, as Galileo was to discover. To understand why Finisterre is at the centre of the Santiago story we need to realise the vital importance of the sun and its orientation to ancient civilisations – not only its veneration as the source of life and regeneration with the rising sun but its symbol of death and resurrection through the setting sun puesta del sol in the West.

Safety: The camino offers a remarkably safe environment in an inherently unsafe world. When viewed in this context few cases of crime or harassment are reported but they have been known to occur. If you are a solo pilgrim and feel unsafe, keep other pilgrims in sight or ask to walk with someone until you feel comfortable again. In the event of an emergency or to report an incident the EU wide emergency number is 112. The Spanish Police have also released an app, AlertCops, which allows you to send an alert or report an incident directly. Road traffic is a major safety concern and extra vigilance is advised while on or crossing roadways.

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OUTER WAYMARKS:

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Stages etapas: Each day’s stage is measured from the front door of one albergue to the next (or to the Cathedral front door in the case of Santiago). Intermediate hotels or hostels are also shown, those directly on the route in a solid panel and those off route with a border only. The number of available beds is also shown [in brackets].

The maps show relevant information only and are therefore not strictly to scale – instead accurate distances are given between each point and this corresponds to the text for ease of reference. The maps for the Camino Inglés are one-directional only from Ferrol (or A Coruña) to Santiago; if you intend to walk ‘in reverse’ source conventional maps. Text and place names are shown as they appear ‘on the ground’ which is generally in Galician Galego but sometimes appear in Spanish Castellano.

The Church of St. John may, therefore, appear as Igrexa San Xoán or Igreja San Juan. Villages in Galicia, tend to straggle without any defined centre and even the local church is frequently located outside the actual town. Distances are measured to an albergue or other clearly defined feature.

Pilgrim Passport Credencial: All official pilgrim hostels are reserved exclusively for pilgrims on the camino who must have a pilgrim passport credencial that has been stamped along the way. To apply for a Compostela you need to collect 2 stamps each day on your credencial. This second stamp requirement was recently introduced in an effort to eliminate tourists whose main intention was to collect a certificate rather than bona fide pilgrims embarking on a spiritual journey. Stamps sellos are readily available from churches, hostels, hotels, even bars. These passports are available from your local confraternity and you are encouraged to join and support the largely voluntary work of these organisations (see list of addresses at the back). Apply in good time although some now provide an internet application which speeds processing. If you have been Unable to acquire a credencial before travelling these are available from the pilgrim office in Santiago, A Coruña or Ferrol. These need to be stamped in order to apply for a Compostela, Fisterana or Muxíana.

Costs: Xunta hostels have a fixed price €6 per night. Alternatives are generally available in private hostels which offer bunk beds and often additional facilities such as use of washing and drying machines overnight charges start at €10. Many offer private rooms from around €30. Hoteles, pensiónes or a type of up-market B&B known as a casa rural literally ‘rural house’ generally built in the traditional Galician style but relatively expensive (€35–€70 depending on season). Allow a basic €25–€35 a day to include overnight stay at a Xunta hostel and remainder for food and drink. Some hostels provide a communal dinner (dependent on the warden hospitalero) and most have a basic kitchen cocina where a meal can be prepared.

Alternatively most locations have one or more restaurants to choose from. Pilgrim menus menú peregrino are generally available for around €9. If you want to indulge in the wonderful seafood mariscos available in Galicia and accompany this with the delightful local Albariño wines you can expect to double or treble the basic cost!

Pilgrim hostels albergues de peregrinos vary in what they provide but accommodation is usually in bunk beds with additional overflow space on mattresses colchonetas. On these routes most hostels have been built in recent years and so provide modern facilities. All Xunta (municipal) hostels provide a kitchen with basic cooking equipment and a dining / sitting area. Opening times vary depending on the time of year but are generally cleaned and open again from midday to welcome pilgrims. You cannot reserve accommodation and phone numbers are provided for emergency calls only or to check availability outside the normal seasons. Note: Albergues are likely to come under new tourist regulations requiring additional facilities. If enforced this may raise the price of accommodation significantly.

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Santiago de Compostela

Compostela

Fisterana

Cabo de Finisterre

MuxĂ­a

MuxĂ­ana

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NOTES TO THE 2020 EDITION:

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Mobile Phones: I have been walking the caminos for over 20 years. While the most obvious change over this period is the rise in pilgrim numbers a more recent impact is the rise in mobile phone use. This constant connectivity with our familiar outer world can keep us disconnected from the expansiveness of our inner world. This disconnect is multi-layered. It can diminish our relationship to each passing moment, the camaraderie of our ‘camino family’ and connection to our divine essence. Finding the courage to step outside our comfort zone can lead to Self-discovery. This may require limiting our dependency on external aids.

Imagine Who we might meet in the space created by letting go these distractions?

While many of us may feel the need to carry a mobile phone perhaps we can, collectively, be more conscious about how and when we use them so as to minimise disturbance to other pilgrims. See: www.walkingtopresence.com All routes remain largely unchanged since this guidebook was first published. They continue to wind their way to and from the city of Santiago and to provide space and time for reflection. The biggest change to the camino is not the path itself but the number of pilgrims who follow it. Those walking the caminos each year has now risen to over 300,000. The majority on the Camino Francés (56%). By comparison those completing the Camino Inglés accounts for only 4% but this is from virtually none a decade ago. The statistics for the Camino Finisterre is not so clear. While the pilgrim office record only 0.3% for the same period, in reality the number is much higher. The majority of pilgrims who travel on to Finisterre and Muxía have received a Compostela while in Santiago and so their ongoing journey is not recorded.

Finisterre and Muxía both issue their own certificates (see opposite) but these do not provide a reliable record of numbers. La Voz de Galicia estimated 45,000 pilgrims visited Finisterre during the Holy Year in 2011.

This hybrid edition includes the Camino Inglés and Camino Finisterre This provides both the shortest route into Santiago and the only route that leaves from it. The Camino Inglés remains largely 'undiscovered' but good waymarking and adequate facilities make it an attractive alternative to the busy route from Sarria which also provides the minimum distance required for a compostela. The Camino Finisterre remains popular with those who have walked to Santiago but are drawn to continue their pilgrimage to 'the end of the world.' It can also now qualify for a compostela if walked 'in reverse' from either Finisterre via Muxía or from Muxía via Finisterre back to Santiago.

Both routes offer the opportunity for reflection. Pilgrimage is experienced on many different levels. At one end is the physical challenge of walking a long distance route in the minimum time with a group of friends. How deep we choose to make the experience is, of course, up to us but perhaps now is an opportunity to experience pilgrimage at a slower pace that allows for the inner alchemy of introspection. The extended periods of silence will allow time for reflection and to integrate insights leading to change and growth. It is in the silence that we will most likely encounter our Self and that may prove the pivotal turning point.

For the majority of pilgrims Santiago de Compostela is their final destination and they simply aren’t aware of – or haven’t thought about continuing to Finisterre or Muxía.

Others are caught within a tightening schedule requiring an early return home. Some squeeze in a visit by bus but this is no substitute for walking the path which remains one of the most significant of the many camino itineraries. The paths to Finisterre and Muxía provide an opportunity to integrate our camino experiences before we find ourselves back home... in the fast lane. Better still commence on the Camino Inglés and go all the way through to the End of the World...

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You are the sky. Everything else; it’s just the weather. Pema Chödrön 2

103.8km (64.5 ml) - Santiago

NEDA – PONTEDEUME --- --- --- --- --- --- Total km --- ---

4.9 --- --- 31% 11.1 --- --- 69% 0.0 --- --- 0% 16.0 km (9.9 ml)

20.5 km (^900m = 4.5 km) Vilar do Colo 205 m (672 ft) H > Cabanas: 14.1 km.

Alto < A

100m

FENE

XUBIA

NEDA NEDA H A

0 km

205m

Vilar do Colo

200m

2 Pasarela

Ría de Ferrol

|

5 km

1 FE-14

|

10 km

PONTEDEUME A Cabañas H Ría Ume | 15

N

p The Practical Path: From the albergue we take a delightful path alongside the estuary through Neda town to café Camino Inglés where alternative route ➋ joins at E-1 underpass. We continue through Fene with good facilities where road route ➊ joins. We then have a steep climb up to Vilar do Colo and a sharp descent to O Cabañas with fine beach before crossing the Rio Eume into the attractive riverside town of Pontedeume. Facilities on this section are good but it is worth ensuring Puesta del Sol water bottles are full E before commencing the climb out of Fene.

Sunrise

Salida del Sol

p The Mystical Path: SunriseOur journey along the path is full of challenges and triumphs mirroring life’s joys and sorrows. But despite our changing circumstances the open S sky is always there, above the clouds. Perhaps it is this place of peace that we are hoping to find, not realising it is above us all the time. p Personal reflections: Trudging through mist then climbing into clear sunshine beyond. Footsore and tiredness replaced by the simple pleasure of finding shelter and refreshment at a covered fountain. This is a day of physical and emotional ups and downs. But our journey and purpose remain constant as we edge towards our destination for this day.

0.0 km Neda Albergue Leave the albergue and follow the estuary due south via parkland paths and wooden board-walks. We rejoin the road to enter the village of Neda passing the Iglesia de Santa Maria [and plaque placed here by the Confraternity of St James commemorating the 2004 Holy Year]. The church (often closed) contains an English Gothic statue of Christ, brought to Galicia in the early 16th century. Continue through small play-park and cross bridge. Pass the Medieval Hospice of the Holy Spirit which once served pilgrims on this road and continue out of town to the café Camino Inglés before reaching motorway underpass.

3.0 km Puente AP-9. Turn left to follow alongside motorway underpass. Note: this is the point where alternative route ➋ joins from San Martin de Xubia. Cross main road [!] café Sil-Mar Detour: 100m H***Pazo da Merced €90+ ✆ 981 382 200

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La Suite del Eume C Cantina Río Covés Centro 2.0

PONTEDEUME

A

río E

31 2 tan

e ía B

R

Praia Madalena

Sarga H

zos

NEDA XUBIA – PONTEDEUME – 16.0 km

ume

H

Los Pinares

CABANAS

4.6 Opción

Iberia H

S.Martiño

Mesón A Lareira

Rotunda 3.5

593

AC-

3

-59

Alto 205m

AC

Café

VILAR DO COLO

S puesta del sol

salida del sol

W

N

FENE

Ponte

Camarote

Cruce 2.9

1

4

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Av.M ar

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355m Coto do Rei

Rí

Enseada Gándara GÁNDARA

l

rro

e aF

FE-11

H Pazo Merced

Neda

3.0 Puente

2

Camino Inglés

NEDA

Albergue 0.0

NEDA

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A

E-1

-8 A

bi

a

C

-11

62

FE

AP-9

Xu

62

-8

AC

AC-115

rio

S.Nicolas

F

rio

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S.María rol Fer

S.Martin de Xubia

NÁRON XUBIA

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luxury hotel overlooking Ría Ferrol. Continue uphill on quiet county. Pass [F.] (left water so fresh that locals travel to collect it). We now have a sharp climb uphill before descending into the village of Fene.

2.9 km Cruce Fene Cross main road (N-651) in the centre of town. Two cafés El Camarote and Lembranza are situated on the corner of this crossroads and café A Ponte 50 m further along. Good opportunity to rest before the climb out of Fene along a series of quiet country lanes before a short stretch of earth path leading back to the main road in Vila do Colo.

3.5 km Rotunda Vila do Colo Cross main road on zebra crossing. Motorway-style café and rest area 100 m (right). Turn back left and imm. right at mini roundabout.

We now follow a series of waymarked lanes and paths to reach the high point of this stage at 205 meters before crossing the E-1 motorway over bridge. Continue downhill passing under railway into Cabañas.

s

iro

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gu

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Rafa

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4.6 km S.POpción On entering Cabañas there is an option* – for main route proceed PONTEDEUME A eira o s/o along Paseo da Madalena and turn right into Estrada Praia past H** Iberia €35 ✆ Turismo 981 430 749 Paseo de la Magdalena 19 and H*** Sarga €40 ✆ 981 431 000 on c/ Capri Arenali 7. Turn left at mini roundabout at the end of the Estrada Praia and right to H Eumesa Guillermo cross the 16th century bridge that once boasted an impressive 79 arches as well as Plaza a chapel.

Conde While only 15 arches remain today the bridge remains an impressive sight PlazaEume into Pontedeume town.

Chacho and fine entry over the Río Pan

Pesc

Rea

l

ader

ia

S.

Au

Option* ●CaStollen ● ● ● At the entrance to Cabañas turn right following a short lane to Luis Hs Hs Allegue n the seafront.ntóHere you can follow the quiet earth paths and sandy tracks through the trees lining the beach until you re-join the main route at the mini roundabout at the Norte Hs Pase od eR end of the Estrada Praia. ax oi

Santiago

Pizzería

2.0 km Pontedeume direct to the municipal albergue turn Igrexa right along the Atafo riverbank.

The hostel is 200m on the left. To access the historic Plaza na S.Roque town ciudad vieja continue over roundabout into Rua Real along waymarked camino. Numerous restaurants, cafés and bars can be found as well as alternative accommodation. The tourist office is situated in the old tower Torreón dos Andrade overlooking the river and set in peaceful gardens (photo below). This tower once formed part of the 15th Century manor Pazo do Conde. At the top of the town is the drado

Empe

Centro des to go Virtu Virtudes

>

Re

al

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eria

Real

cad n

o

Rafa Chacho

Plaza Conde

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re Fe r

Eumesa H

Stollen

Plaza Real

iag

Plaza Pan

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Hs Luis Concello

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S.

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gu

stí

n

Allegue Hs

Hs Norte

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er ia

xoi

sc ad

Ra

nt

de

Guillermo Capri

PONTEDEUME

W

E

Santiago

Sa

seo

o

Pa

d edra

es

d Virtu

Pizzería

Atafona Igrexa

Pes

Emp

Virtudes

S

BETANZOS

Plaza S.Roque

i

S.P

Turismo

eira

o A

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STAGE: 2

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impressive Gothic Iglesia de Santiago. Like so many of the town's other landmarks it was commissioned by Fernán Pérez de Andrade (in 1538). A marble statue of him can be found inside. Alterations were commisioned to the facade in the 1700's by Bartolomé Rajoy (Archbishop of Santiago) in classic baroque style. Visit for a quiet reflection or join the 20.00 mass. More details and confirmation of opening times can be found at the tourist office.

❚ Pontedeume: Turismo 10.30–14.00 / 16.00–19.00 Festivos11.00–14.00 Torreón de Los Andrade. Lodging: Alb. Pontedeume Muni.[20÷1] €6 ✆ 682 469 004 c/ del Muelle. H*** Eumesa €30 ✆ 981 430 901 Av. La Coruña (rotunda). Hs** Allegue €30 ✆ 981 430 035 Rúa Chafaris 1. P* Luís €15+ ✆ 981 430 235 c/ San Agustín 12. Hs* Norte €15+ ✆ 981 434 527 c/ San Agustín 26. P** O Cruceiro €20+ ✆ 981 430 185 Campolongo 1. Detour [+ 1.2 km]: La Suite del Eume €100 ✆ 981 434 057 Estrada Esteiro 9 (+ Rst. Cantina Río Covés).

REFLECTIONS:

Bridge over the río Eume in Pontedeume:

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