CHEESEWIRE
news & views from the cheese counter
US export market opening up after Trump tariffs are scrapped By Patrick McGuigan
Cheesemakers are hoping to boost exports to the US after the Biden administration agreed to suspend 25% tariffs on British cheese, which were imposed by former president Donald Trump. The tariffs were levied on a range of European food and drink products, including cheese, in 2019 as part of a row over subsidies paid to Airbus. But these have now been suspended for four months on British goods after negotiations between the countries’ respective governments. The US accounted for around 25% of Quicke’s sales
before tariffs, but the Devon cheddar-maker has seen sales there fall by 70% in the past year due to tariffs and COVID. “Our American sales were absolutely slaughtered, so this is good news,” said owner Mary Quicke. “COVID is receding, foodservice is making a comeback and the tariff is gone, so there is light at the end of the tunnel.” The US is the UK’s secondlargest dairy export market after the EU with previously strong demand for British artisan cheese. But cheese exports to the US fell by 30% last year, compared to 2018, according to the Agriculture and Horticulture Development
Devon cheesemaker Quicke’s is hoping to rebuild its profile in the USA
Board, a reduction worth around £12m. At Singletons in Lancashire, exports to the US account for around 25% of sales. The company managed to grow its business there last year, despite the tariffs, thanks to new listings. Head of sales Henry Openshaw said the suspension of levies was positive news, but also made pricing difficult. “We welcome the removal of any barriers to free trade,” he said. “Lower tariffs mean lower prices, which makes British cheese more attractive for US consumers. But a temporary cessation of hostilities leaves us in a quandary. Yoyo-ing prices confuse retailers, who are not all apprised of the wider political and economic circumstances.” He added that he hoped further US-UK negotiations would lead to a permanent deal. Mary Quicke told FFD that her daughter Jane, who is based in Vancouver, had joined the company to help rebuild sales in the US. “It’s a very different environment there now because of COVID,” she said. “A lot of the focus has been on supporting American cheesemakers and there’s been a big move to online, so there’s work to be done to get back to where we were.”
NEWS IN BRIEF Tributes were paid across Northern Ireland last month, after the death of Dean Wright, owner of Ballylisk of Armagh. The cheesemaker, who made the mould-ripened cheese Triple Rose on his family farm, passed away suddenly at the age of 48. Restaurant group Six by Nico has launched a pop-up cheese shop in Glasgow. The Cheese Club Shop will be managed by former George Mewes cheesemonger Stephen Sweet, who will also oversee online sales through the company’s food delivery arm HOME-X. Arla Foods is consulting with 37 staff over plans to end production at its Trevarrian Creamery in Cornwall, which makes brie and camembert. The company aims to shut down the site by the summer due to losing ownlabel contracts and instability in foodservice caused by COVID.
The British Cheese Weekender – launched last year to help cheesemakers – returns this month with three days of online talks and tastings. Taking place on 23rd-25th April, the online festival is sponsored by Opies Foods, Tracklements and Peter’s Yard, and aims to raise awareness and boost sales of British artisan cheese. Last year saw more than 30 free online events from leading food writers, cheesemakers and mongers. The festival is backed by the Specialist Cheesemakers Association, the Guild of Fine Food and the Academy of Cheese. blog.academyofcheese.org/british-cheeseweekender
THREE WAYS WITH...
Rachael Reserva Somerset-based White Lake’s washedrind goats’ cheese Rachel has an older sister with a big personality. Rachael Reserva (it’s spelled differently because it’s named after a different person) is made in larger 12kg wheels and is aged for at least 12 months, rather than 3, to create a cheese with a much bolder, intense flavour. The texture is pliable with a powerful fruity, nutty and umami flavour. Sweet chilli sauce There’s a big tropical fruit hit in Rachael Reserva and a spicy tingle at the finish, which means it can handle a punchy condiment. Step forward sweet chilli sauce. The fragrant heat and sweet fruity flavour meld nicely with the cheese, while the red sauce against the pale cheese looks good too. Palo Cortado sherry Sweet hazelnut notes abound in the cheese, so sherry is a natural choice. Palo Cortado, which is halfway between an Amontillado and an Oloroso, is just the ticket. It has plenty of acidity and nutty tones, but also a rich, mouthcoating sweetness. Pizza If pineapple on a pizza is your thing, then you might want to give Rachael Reserva a go instead. The cheese melts beautifully and has a distinct pineapple flavour, which complements salty toppings, such as ham and olives. Think of it as a West Country Hawaiian. Vol.22 Issue 3 | April 2021
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