A full report on this year’s World Cheese Awards in Portugal
ALSO INSIDE Independent retail reacts to the Budget Armadeli in Stroud Fen Farm Dairy’s new cheese
CONTENTS
editorial@gff.co.uk
Editor: Michael Lane
Deputy editor:
Tanwen Dawn-Hiscox
Art director: Mark Windsor
Contributors: Nick Baines, Richard Faulks, Patrick McGuigan, Greg Pitcher, Lynda Searby
Cover photo: Paulo Fernandes
opportunities@gff.co.uk
Sales director: Sally Coley
Senior sales account manager: Becky Haskett
I did catch a glimpse of the Ei el Tower from the window of a very hot train carriage, on a sardine-like journey to an unglamourous event centre.
By Michael Lane, editor
I went to Paris the other day, but my rst time in the City of Love couldn’t have been less romantic. No stroll up the Champs-Elysées, no visiting the Louvre, no longing gazes from bridges over the Seine. I didn’t even see the Ei el Tower.
That last one isn’t entirely true. I did catch a glimpse of it from the window of a very hot train carriage, on a sardine-like journey to an unglamourous events centre.
Once inside the concrete monstrosity, I saw something that would astound you as much as the French capital’s most breathtaking tourist hotspots. Some of you may have guessed by now that I was visiting the self-proclaimed World’s Largest Food Trade Show, aka SIAL.
They weren’t kidding. You could’ve t the next largest trade show I’ve ever been to into half of one of SIAL’s halls at the Parc des Expositions – and there were 10 halls, each dedicated to di erent categories.
Accounts assistant: Julie Coates
Finance director: Ashley Warden
support@gff.co.uk
Managing director: John Farrand
Special projects director: Tortie Farrand
And, yes, I did stupidly attempt to get around all of them in a dayand-a-half. Thankfully, some of it just wasn’t relevant to FFD For example, there was an almost-milelong Turkish pavilion for dried goods (there were a lot of these from multiple countries), Chinese businesses selling unappetisingly translated goods like “sea fungus” and an entire hall dedicated to pulses. While it was useful to see these things as a reminder of the scale of the global food business, I was on the lookout for the quirkier, smaller stu – and I did nd it.
A er dodging a few trays of dubiously concocted frankfurters, I did nd gems like preservative-free sweets from Denmark, low-sugar jams from Ireland and vegan seafood salads made entirely with Belgian mushrooms. At times, I was in my element but I also felt strangely detached.
Plenty of the producers I spoke to seemed unsure of doing business
I’m loving the new wave of ‘clean-label’ snacks. This has fewer ingredients than I have fingers on one hand: honey, butter, chocolate. A sprinkling of sea salt, et voilà. The ideal topping for toast, filling for cakes, spoonful for the trap (for the less disciplined among us). If only someone had told a famous Italian multinational that it could be so simple. More on p.51
in the UK (not all of them!). Many countries’ marketing agencies had le their London-based colleagues at home. And there was also a depressing lack of British export presence. The two UK pavilions I did see could’ve easily sat within the Canadian Bison stand in the meat hall.
To be clear, I don’t think it’s just a Brexit thing, but there is a distinct sense that on this global stage, the UK wasn’t exactly a major player –and it’s clear that our producers do not enjoy the kind of government backing that many others do.
At home, the situation feels very much the same. Whatever angle you take on the Budget, it seems the Government doesn’t care about independent retailers or suppliers.
So far, the new PM and his team have done very little to cheer anyone up – let alone our embattled sector. Let’s hope next year there’s a proper plan for, or even a nod towards, food & drink in the UK.
Marketing officer: Jenna Morice
PR & partnerships officer: Claire Fry
Data strategy & insight manager: Lindsay Farrar
Operations manager: Claire Powell
Operations coordinators: Chris Farrand, Sepi Rowshanaei
Storm Bert’s flooding hit farmers and food businesses last month, with many sheep farmers forced to move livestock to high grounds, while meat and ready meal producer The Black Farmer faced distribution delays and operational disruptions.
Research conducted by supply chain specialists Inverto has found that 65% of UK companies expect commodity price increases next year, up from 48% last year, driven by geopolitical turmoil, tariffs, and rising raw material costs.
The owners of South London butcheryfocused deli Dugard and Daughters opened a third shop on Putney High Street last month, joining existing stores in Herne Hill and Earlsfield.
Elaborate and costly food scams put ne food producers on high alert
By Greg Pitcher
Independent food producers have alerted others in the sector to be vigilant amid a wave of fraud targeting high-end produce.
Key gures spoke about their experiences a er headlines were made by the reported the s of £300,000 of cheese from London’s Neal’s Yard Dairy and £37,000 of salmon from Su olk’s Chapel & Swan.
In both cases, it appears criminals posed as legitimate businesses to order and take delivery of large shipments of food before disappearing without paying.
The Metropolitan Police reported receiving a complaint about the the of a large quantity of cheese from a Southwark-based manufacturer on October 21. They subsequently arrested a 63-year-old man on suspicion of fraud and handling stolen goods. He was questioned at a south London police station and later released on bail as
investigations continue.
Chris Swales, commercial director at Chapel & Swan, said these high-pro le cases were just the tip of the iceberg of the fraudulent activity being attempted and carried out involving the sector.
“I have heard three stories of genuine people [from the trade] being impersonated in face-toface and video meetings by someone defrauding suppliers of tens of thousands of pounds of food,” he said.
Swales said he was courted over a period of time by a criminal claiming
ECR Retail launches tool to ght crime
Brand network ECR Retail
Loss has released a tool to help stores tackle crime.
The benchmarking system was developed by criminology professor Emmeline Taylor and set out in a new report titled How to Engage Others in a Cross-Function Risk Mitigation Strategy.
It encourages various members of retail teams to score their business in seven areas – data, people, control, offenders, guarding, monitoring and joining forces.
Taylor said: “All too often asset protection is siloed or seen as the ‘no’ department. This benchmarking exercise is 28 questions and I challenge businesses to apply it across functions.
“The beauty is you can also apply it vertically from the top to the shop floor.
She stressed that the tool also held relevance for smaller independent retailers.
“The seven strategic principles for risk mitigation apply regardless of the merchandise on sale or the scale of the business.”
“For smaller businesses, there might not be as many different perspectives gathered, but I have no doubt that working through the 28 questions will identify areas to focus on and generate actions.”
The 2023 Fortress Store report documented the significant threats retailers were facing in their most
at-risk stores.
“These stores are characterised by frequent incidents of violence, theft and antisocial behaviour as well as being impacted by a range of social issues such as homelessness and drug misuse, which present additional layers of operational risk and complexity,” said the latest study.
“Given the elevated risks, some businesses have responded with reactive, scattergun or even defeatist approaches.
“Those adopting a more proactive, inclusive and whole-of-business approach to risk mitigation are able to navigate the challenging headwinds more successfully.”
to be a buyer representing a French supermarket.
“This person was incredibly relaxed. I had a knee operation in October and I was getting regular emails asking how I was. It was very friendly.”
The nature of the communications and the challenges of storing and distributing the salmon led Swales to conclude it was someone with industry knowledge.
“There is considerable experience in food, it is someone from the trade.”
He urged other businesses in the sector to take the risk of fraud
“incredibly seriously”.
“Just be suspicious of every new enquiry, especially if it is big,” he said. “Assume it is probably dodgy. Go through every check you can think of.
“Instead of dealing with the person writing to us, we ignore them. Find the company yourself, get phone numbers, verify that you are talking to real people and speak to them through your own channels and check various details.”
Tom Calver, director at Westcombe Dairy, was caught up in the Neal’s Yard heist, which involved 10 tonnes of cheddar from the Somerset producer.
“It was the largest order we had ever done,” he said, “equivalent to about a month’s production”.
“The simplest thing to learn is that if something feels too good to be true, it probably is, and extra checks and measures need to be put in place,” said Calver. “Meeting people in person is useful. That is a lesson for everybody.”
How to prevent food fraud according to the NFCU
• Theft is primarily a police matter. Action recommended for food businesses:
• Ensure that this information is used to inform any vulnerability or fraud risk assessments with appropriate action in place.
• Inform relevant colleagues with responsibility for sales and customer contracts to be aware of any unusual or suspicious activity such as changes to bank details from existing customers or new customers requesting extremely large orders of high value items.
• If unsure whether a purchase is legitimate, do not reply directly to contacts via email or messages. Instead use publicly listed information for the company that are attempting the purchase and contact them directly to validate the details you are being given.
• If you suspect food fraud, report it to Food Crime Confidential always available on food. gov.uk or by phoning 0800 028 1180 (0207 276 8787 for non-UK mobiles and calls).
Artisan cheese is one category that has proved vulnerable
Budget strikes indies with ‘perfect storm of crippling cost increases’
By Greg Pitcher
Fine food rms have reacted in despair to an Autumn Budget they warned could cost jobs and close premises across the sector.
Chancellor of the Exchequer Rachel Reeves on 30th October announced a series of measures set to drive up costs for independent producers and retailers (see box-out below right).
According to analysis by accountants Deloitte, an employee earning £20,000 per year will cost businesses 50% more in National Insurance contributions alone from April next year.
Meanwhile many rms could see their expenditure on Business Rates more than double, and farmers have protested in Whitehall over changes to Inheritance Tax they said could force many to sell up.
British Independent Retailers Association
chief executive Andrew Goodacre decried “without doubt the worst Budget” he had ever seen for the sector.
A “perfect storm of crippling cost increases” could “force many shop owners to make heartbreaking decisions about their businesses’ futures”, he added.
“I can only assume that the Government is happy for working people
Food businesses go uninspected amid FSA sta ng crisis
Tens of thousands of food businesses have yet to be inspected across the UK, while one in 10 council enforcement officer jobs remains vacant, a report has revealed.
Our Food 2023, published this autumn by The Food Standards Agency and Food Standards Scotland, found that 39,000 firms were awaiting their first inspection in England, Wales and Northern Ireland.
The study also discovered that 10% of posts for local authority food enforcement staff, including environmental health and trading standards officers (EHO and TSO), were unfilled.
There were 147 fewer full-time equivalent food hygiene officers and 182 fewer TSOs working for councils across England, Wales and Northern Ireland in October 2023 than a decade earlier, the report said.
Meanwhile the volume of businesses requiring inspection had increased in that time, leading to an estimated 10% rise in caseloads for those officers in post even before factoring in dealing with the backlog.
The FSA said almost half of interventions due in the six months to April 2024 were not carried out across England, Wales and Northern Ireland
to shop online and buy cheap imports. This government has shown complete disregard for the local businesses that create jobs and maintain vibrant communities.”
Farm Retail Association chair Emma Mosey said the Budget “sounded a death knell for small-scale food production in the UK”.
She added: “This could lead to job cuts, reduced investment and higher prices for consumers. The rapid increase in costs is making it increasingly di cult to remain competitive.
“Many farm retail businesses are family-run by hard working people... these fears cannot be overplayed.”
The Budget came
hot on the heels of ministerial meetings with business leaders over the government’s Make Work Pay proposals, which would see minimum wage tapering removed for adults and introduce the right to sick pay and parental leave from day one.
Federation of Small Businesses policy chair Tina McKenzie said the government’s stance on employer responsibilities would hit many companies hard.
“We’ve been very clear in our warning of the di culty SMEs will be confronted with in meeting all of these changes at once – and the potential impact on jobs, wages and prices,” she said.
However, McKenzie added that increasing the employment allowance to give companies £10,500 o their National Insurance Bill rather than £5,000, and making all rms eligible for this, was “very welcome”.
Regardless of speci c policies, McKenzie insisted the “true test” of the Budget would be whether small businesses were able to grow and “end the economic stagnation the UK has been stuck in”.
How the Autumn Budget will impact the ne food trade
Employer National Insurance contributions increase from 13.8% to 15% from April 2025, and the point at which these kick in reduced from £9,100 to £5,000 per employee.
Retail, Hospitality and Leisure Business Rates
Relief scheme extended to March 2026 but reduced from 75% to 40% . Alcohol duty to be increased in line with inflation but “most drinks in pubs” to be excluded.
A pledge to “ensure” the Soft Drinks Industry Levy increases and review the current sugar thresholds and the exemption for milk-based drinks.
Inheritance Tax Relief on “agricultural and business property” slashed from 100% to 50% from April 2026, above a £1m threshold.
WHAT THEY ARE SAYING ABOUT...
...THE AUTUMN BUDGET
“The increase in employer National Insurance contributions is our biggest concern. We think it will cost us about £150,000, which we will mitigate through efficiencies and scheduling in slightly different ways. We will be wary of taking on new people and drop our headcount.”
“I was thinking of giving people pay rises and getting a catering truck going but we will have to put that on hold. Customer service sets us apart but we are being penalised for employing people. The government wants to fill the country with budget supermarket chains and automated tills.”
“Changes to employer NI contributions and the National Living Wage will add £12,000 to our employment bill. To absorb these costs we will have to cut down on temporary staff. A change in inheritance tax exemption for farmers is a threat to the continuation of small farms. As a country we should be looking to produce more food, not less.”
Chancellor Rachel Reeves unveiled a number of measures that will push up costs for independent retailers
JENNIE ALLEN, BAYLEY & SAGE
FRANKIE DYER, BARBAKAN DELICATESSEN
MICHAEL BOURNE, GROOMBRIDGE FARM SHOP
Flourish opens second site a er acquiring Farleigh Road Farm Shop
By Tanwen Dawn-Hiscox
Last month, a second Flourish Food Hall opened in Norton St Philip, after the owners bought the Farleigh Road Farm Shop site in July and completed renovation works.
Work on the Somerset site was done with the shop still open, expanding the retail area and café with a larger kitchen, a new deli and butchery counters and a bigger car park.
The new shop, Flourish at Farleigh Road, is 12 miles away from the original location in Saltford. The first Flourish Foodhall & Kitchen opened in 2021 as a physical outlet for sustainability-focused wholesaler and sister business, Cotswold Fayre.
The shop promotes and share the B-Corp company’s values of sustainability, being ethically-driven and community-led – and sells its products, a portfolio which now includes more
National Food Strategy delayed
The Government delayed the announcement of a new National Food Strategy last month following widespread farmer protests over changes to Agricultural Property Relief and Business Property Relief in the Autumn Budget.
The strategy, which is expected to revive aspects of the one written in 2021 by then Government advisor Henry Dimbleby, aims to tackle obesity, carbon emissions, and food poverty.
It was set to be announced but was postponed due to concerns about the protests overshadowing the announcement.
Polling commissioned by the NFU showed that the inheritance tax changes for farmers were highly unpopular with British voters.
than 4,000 products from 400 brands.
As well as wholesaling and retailing, Cotswold Fayre runs B-Corp workshops, helping retailers and producers achieve the accreditation, with the larger aim of supporting small-scale farmers; championing seasonal produce; connecting people with the local and organic products, reducing their environmental footprint and promoting healthy
eating habits.
As the wholesaler’s catalogue has grown, so has the retail operation: the Saltford shop has expanded twice already, with a Home & Lifestyle addition in 2022, and a Pottery Painting Barn in 2023.
The shop hosted the Flourish Food Festival in June, a two-day event including live music, craft activities and workshops. It was shortlisted to win a Farm Shop & Deli retailer
DOWN ON THE FARM
The latest from farm shops across the country
The owners of Silchester Farm in Hampshire have created a wedding and events venue at the farm, as well as opening a farm shop, housed in an arkshaped pig house called Trough It sells freshly baked goods from their venue’s kitchen as well as local cheeses, in-house gin and beer and fresh coffee. silchesterfarm.co.uk
New paintwork and signage are the forerunners to a farm shop opening on the Coniscliffe Road in Darlington, in a former bakery. Clervaux Trust has been supplying veg boxes to the local area for some time. clervaux-seasons.co.uk
A scheme in Shepton Mallet has helped launch a new farm shop on the high street. The charity, Interim Spaces, allows businesses to use 10 Market Place rent- and bill-free to encourage more shops to open. The Little Farm Shed made use of these facilities to sell fresh produce and has now moved to a permanent site next door. thelittlefarmshed.com
IN BRIEF
The inaugural Future of Food competition took place last month, celebrating innovative food industry startups. Nice Rice won gold for its sustainable farming practices, while cleaning product brand Seep took the silver medal for its efforts to reduce plastic waste, and Dogtooth Technologies won bronze for its berry harvesting robots.
award earlier this year.
Managing director of both sites Paul Castle said it had been an “incredibly challenging” time, opening a second site with both locations still trading.
“But to see it all come together makes it all worth it. The team have been amazing to continue to serve during this period and I can’t wait for more customers to be able to experience Flourish in this new location.” flourish-group.co.uk
Professor Susan Jebb has been reappointed as The Chair of the Food Standards Agency (FSA) until 31 December 2027. She took up the role in 2021, and was set to step down in June 2024, but delayed her departure pending the general election.
Plant-based brand Rude Health has been acquired by Finnish business Oddlygood for an undisclosed fee.
Cobbs Farm Shops recently received a Highly Commended award in the Small to Medium Sized Business category at the 2024 British Business Excellence Awards. The accolade highlights Cobbs Farm Shops’ contribution to British retail, excellence in customer service, and a commitment to sustainability and community engagement. cobbsfarmshops.co.uk
A new farm shop has opened in the courtyard at the entrance to Grimsthorpe Estate in Bourne. Run by John and Lesley Berry, it will feature a selection of fresh, locally sourced goods, including venison and game from the Grimsthorpe Estate. grimsthorpe.co.uk
Somerset retailer Flourish’s second outlet was formerly known as Farleigh Road Farm Shop
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FONDADA WINS SUPER-GOLD AND SECOND PLACE IN THE FINAL OF WORLD CHEESE AWARDS 2024. For further information, please contact Janic Fasser, info@chaschaira-valmuestair.ch Switzerland
From a young age, I knew I wanted to be a chef. So, at the age of 14, I got a job in the village pub. I went on to study professional cookery at Stamford Catering College and, after that, continued work as a chef, both in the UK and Australia, where I also studied marketing and management. When I came home, I ran a bakery business for six years followed by a pizza trailer for another two. So you could say that now, aged 32, I know a lot about running a food business.
When the pandemic hit, I had a few months of limited income, which gave me food for thought. I went off-grid and lived in a cabin, growing veg and rearing my own lamb and pork.
When the previous tenant of the farm shop building announced they were retiring in 2023, I took a mammoth leap of faith to follow my dream.
I continued producing meat, but demand was high so I started working with local farmers who share my high animal welfare principles. For example, I go to Gelston Lamb every Thursday to collect direct from the farm and take delivery of Lincoln Red beef from Horncastle. The story behind my meat is its USP; my cade lambs are bottle-fed by me – not many retailers can say that.
Our first Christmas in the shop was chaos but, with around four times usual trade, it put us on the map. We have done a fair bit of advertising and are active on social media – sometimes people just need a reminder that we are here.
Although people primarily come to the shop for meat, we offer a lot more than that. We have a selection of British cheeses, fresh produce, bread, cakes, crafts and other niche local lines. We serve tea, cakes and homemade sausage rolls in the courtyard, with plans for some patio heaters to keep people warm during the winter.
I say ‘we’, but it is currently just me. I am, however, very fortunate that my mum helps by setting up every morning, and doing the books, which is a big weight off me.
I invested heavily in the business at the beginning and have battled hard to make a profit in the first year, so I am pleased with my progress to date.
So far, I have avoided employing anyone, as my fear is that it will take away from what the shop is all about. I strive to engage with everyone who comes through the door as it is important to me that customers experience more than just a transaction.
My secret to success is service with a smile, which has naturally become my signature. I never forget that the way I make others feel is my trademark.
Interview Lynda Searby
Photography Richard Faulks
View from HQ
FFD’s publisher and Guild of Fine Food managing director John Farrand has his say
AND THE HEADLINE READ:
“UK cheeses miss out on international prize a er getting stuck in customs”. Not a cutting for the World Cheese Awards scrapbook or to have framed for the downstairs loo. Ironic really. And not a small amount, there’s an enormous dollop of irony.
Here at the Guild, we’ve been training folk how to handle, cut, serve and sell cheese for nearly 40 years. For a similar stretch we’ve been working with government quangos to promote independent retailers and smaller producers, many of them cheesemakers. Over the past four years, we’ve stepped it up, agitating policymakers to
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ensure that we survived Covid, ‘embraced’ Brexit, and deciphered border controls. We’ve been moaning – on your behalf –about this and all the other economic headwinds.
Oh, the irony then, that the UK cheese entries failed to make it to the judging tables in Portugal, despite us ticking every required box.
It’s all very well teaching retailers to handle cheese, when clearly, we could not. It felt like all our lobbying, whingeing and activism relating to the crossborder movement of goods had gone up in a pu of incinerated cheese.
It was certainly not our fault, nor the cheesemakers, but that doesn’t make the pain go away.
The only sliver of good to come out of this is that the headlines shone a light, yet again, on the vagaries of import and export.
This year’s UK entries into the World Cheese Awards were a metaphor for the wider malaise around international trade.
There was yet more irony at the impressive Future of Food event last month. This inaugural gathering had an admirable objective of addressing the big issues: planet, people, politics, plastics and other stu beginning with P.
Through a series of pitches and judges’ interrogation, the winner was Nice Rice, a rice supplier (unsurprisingly), sourcing from sustainable farmers embracing methods that use less water, produce less methane and are
It was certainly not our fault, nor the cheesemakers, but that doesn’t make the pain go away.
higher yielding.
‘Where’s the irony?’, you say. The impressive panel of speakers that set the tone for the event included Mike Berners-Lee, author of the compelling There is No Planet B. His brother Tim is famously the inventor of the World Wide Web.
So I suppose it’s ironic, because if you are reading this online, or you received an email telling you to read it online, you are contributing to climate change.
Who knew that data centres running the ‘Cloud’ and that newfangled AI, is as much of a drain on worldwide energy our planet (and as impactful in climate change terms) as the global aviation industry?
Makes you want to unplug the internet, doesn’t it?
I’d rather do without social media so I can take the odd ight to go and enjoy another country’s cheese. The irony, of course, is that I won’t be allowed to bring any home.
The Word on Westminster
By Edward Woodall Association of Convenience Stores
BUSINESSES ARE STILL reeling from the October Budget that saw the new Government load tax increases on the retailers. For the smallest business there were some protections from the increases in employer NICs, but no one was insulated from the increase in the National Living Wage and cuts to business rate relief. My sense is that businesses are both angry and perplexed by the Chancellor’s decision.
They are angry because Labour had courted them in the lead up and during the election with a pro-business agenda, but now made them shoulder all the burden. And perplexed because, if the Government’s biggest focus is on delivering growth, adding costs to business that will deliver the growth doesn’t stack up. The answer from the Chancellor is that
she had no other option to fill the black hole in the public finances and that this is not a Budget they want to repeat. I’m not sure that’s especially reassuring to the companies we work with.
But with a sizeable majority and disciplined backbenchers in Parliament, it is clear that the Labour Government is prepared to push through its programme. Even when it is up against organised campaigners, like farmers, they will push ahead with a focus on their missions. They also want to make the tough decisions as early as possible in the Parliament to avoid the political backlash before the next election.
What we need to hear from the Chancellor are fewer promises and more plans for delivering growth. Many businesses will be questioning if the Government understands the environment businesses need for growth. For food retail businesses this means managing the collective burden of
regulations, reforming the business rates system to incentivise investment and maintaining a dynamic labour market so we can deliver secure, local flexible jobs.
The ‘make work pay’ agenda is the area that needs to be watched carefully. Yes, we want employees to feel more secure at work, but tying good employers up with more administration will damage productivity and impact the existing flexible working opportunities on offer. We also recognise the need to support the lowest paid, but the increase in the cost of employment has resulted in employers reassessing their workforce plans.
Hopefully the year will be new clarity on the Government growth agenda and a sense of urgency about working with businesses to deliver this.
Edward Woodall is government relations director at the ACS edward.woodall@acs.org.uk
CONFESSIONS OF A DELI OWNER
ANONYMOUS TALES FROM BEHIND THE COUNTER
I AM AN optimist by nature. Sunny-side up, glass half full, I will always look for the good in things. Over the last few weeks, I’ve struggled to maintain that optimism.
First, there was the general sense of unease leading up to the Budget announcement. I felt it in the shop and at the till with customers. It’s rare that a Budget announcement causes this feeling of dread. Most of the time, they swing by without much conversation or attention. But this year, I and many I spoke to were feeling a little existential about it all.
I was dusting the shop and getting ready to implement our Christmas display, postHalloween, when the Budget was being announced. I had it on low on the radio in the shop, quickly switching it over when a customer came in. You don’t want to get political at the tills
– I’ve made that mistake in the past. Like I’ve said in previous columns, a shopkeeper-customer relationship is a one-sided one, in favour of the customer. It would be inappropriate to discuss my personal views.
I actually gasped at some of the announcements as they were read out. The cut to retail and hospitality business rates relief and the Employer NI increases
being the biggest. We’ve had our business less than a decade, and in that time, we’ve weathered challenge a er challenge. COVID, in ation, cost increases, minimum wage going up by 40%. We, like many other small businesses that are the heart of this country, don’t have much bu er le .
The thing that got my goat more than anything was the implication that small business owners do not fall into the category of ‘working people’. It’s taken a week for me to stop ranting about it, so I won’t do so here – more for my own sanity than anything else.
Gradually, over the last few days, the ery spirit inside me that’s faced down our other challenges has risen to the surface, and like a soldier slowly piecing together their armour, I am now ready for battle.
I actually gasped at some of the announcements as they were read out.
Wholesale cod prices have risen by 8% since a cut to fishing quotas was announced for 2025. Prices could rise by more than 20% in the seven weeks after the news.
Source: The National Federation of Fish Friers
Retail eye
The Budget sent ripples through the sector and the tax burden on small businesses will be he y. For members of the Farm Retail Association, the blow is hitting extra hard. Not only do we have NI increases, minimum wage increases and the cut to business rates relief to contend with, but we are also fearful about the APR relief reform e ects on our farming businesses over the long term.
Rather than dwell on the impact, let’s discuss some ways you might be able to mitigate the cost burden in your business using innovation and entrepreneurship:
Operational E ciencies
The messages in our community WhatsApp group have been centred on e ciencies. What’s the most cost-e ective way to make the best sausage roll? Can we move from table service in our restaurants? How can technology help us write our marketing copy and social media posts? Time has become an expensive commodity, and one we are all trying to save.
Revenue Generation
Another way to lessen the blow of increased costs is to make more money with the same resources. Can we look at our retail ow and make more revenue in the same space? Perhaps we can introduce a Loyalty Scheme to encourage customers to spend more or return more o en.
Space Maximisation
How will we make back the lost bottom line without putting prices up? That is the question that’s keeping me awake at night. It’s a question we’ve answered before, and it’s one we will answer again. We’ll nd new things to o er the customer which will increase pro tability. Or we will succumb and have to raise prices. We will not be beaten. ARE YOU LOOKING FOR MORE?
Can we introduce new areas to our businesses without increasing overheads? If you’re open in the day, can you o er something else in the evenings, like events?
One thing’s for sure: we will need to dig deep as an industry to survive. But isn’t that the joy of being an entrepreneur? We have the power to change things within our own domain, to mitigate the pressures from external events.
Even when it’s di cult, we can turn adversity into advantage.
One thing’s for sure: we will need to dig deep as an industry to survive
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A marriage made in cheese heaven
Honouring tradition while embracing new innovative methods is paying o for the cheesemakers in Castile and León who again reaped the rewards at the World Cheese Awards
IF SPAIN IS among the very best cheese producers in the world, the region of Castile and León in the northwest of the country is setting standards on a national level.
In November, Gold, Silver and Bronze medals were once again awarded to the region’s cheeses during the 2024-25 World Cheese Awards, the premier global competition for cheese and a genuine marker of quality.
It takes something truly special to still be standing at the conclusion of the rigorous testing and tasting carried out by a panel of 240 judges, from 40 countries: all experts in the eld of cheese, from retailers and buyers to chefs, journalists and cheese graders.
Taking place in Viseu, Portugal this year, the 36th edition of the competition saw a starting number of 4,786 cheeses all judged and scored
based on appearance, aroma, texture, mouthfeel and avour.
The judging process whittles entries down to a select group and the best cheeses are awarded Gold, Silver or Bronze Medal, while a small number are deemed to be Super Golds.
The 2024 edition of The World Cheese Awards con rmed Castile and León as one of the world’s most important for cheese production. More than 35 cheeses from the region took home a medal, rewarding the cra , tradition and innovation demonstrated by the producers.
At the peak of the pack, Los Payuelos in León was the proud recipient of not one, but two Super Gold medals for its Pata de Mulo Curado and Pata de Mulo Semi-curado.
“We are a small business and we really appreciate these recognitions,” says Francisco
Vazquez Martinez who manages the business with his brother. They took over the business 13 years ago and have found great success with several awards since.
The two winning cheeses are similar in style and vary in avour chie y due to the di erent ageing process, the curado is le for 4-5 months while the semi-curado is kept for between 35 days and two months. At Los Payuelos the cheeses are le to age in underground chambers, a process that gives them a special characteristic.
The stellar reputation of cheese in Castile and León is in part due to the exceptional high quality of sheep’s milk in the region, however cheesemakers in the southern part of the region tend to use goat milk to make their cheeses.
“There are almost no sheep here in the south of Castile and León and we work exclusively with goat milk,” says Victor Rodriguez from Quesería de María in Ávila who was awarded two Gold medals for his goats’ cheeses, Campante Queso Curado and Domingo de Ramos Queso Semicurado.
He highlights the Domingo de Ramos, made with 100% goats’ milk, which is slowly
pasteurised, the traditional way in order to keep the creaminess and avour. This year it has gone one better from the Silver medal it was previously awarded.
“We are not a large producer, we try to make enough to keep it sustainable and just focus on producing a great quality product,” says Victor Rodriguez. He and his team collect the milk fresh every day from their own farm next to the cheese business.
Winning a prestigious prize at the World Cheese Awards, clearly helps with increasing visibility and recognition on an international stage while giving the producers a spring in their step. It is a pat on the back for a job well done. For some there is an added dimension to keep in mind – helping to keep a local economy dynamic in small communities that are seeing a decrease in the local population.
“For us, this is a very important project to energize the local economy and promote employment,” explains Victor Rodriguez. “The international recognition is very important for us
to keep forging a path for our region.”
In the case of the cheesemakers with a long history and several generations involved, respecting the traditional methods while scaling up to meet demand can be challenging.
But rst-rate raw material married with technique and skill can ease the evolution to an artisanal industrial production.
That is certainly the case for family business Quesos El Pastor in Zamora, which has been in operation since 1967 and is currently steered by the second generation.
“We are a big business now but we produce cheese in the same way we always did, using a traditional method to keep the avours that characterize our cheeses,” says Marco Rodriguez.
El Pastor took home Gold medals for two cheeses made with sheep’s milk: Queso Oveja Curado and the smoked variety Queso Oveja Curado Ahumado.
characteristic that means the region continues to excel, proving that tradition and innovation are a recipe for success.
“We now have people in this region who are trying out di erent things and di erent styles of cheese,” says Goicoechea. “They have shown courage in trying di erent things and it has revolutionised the cheeses of Castile and Leon a bit.”
Ángel García García is third generation running his family cheesemaking business Quesos Garcia Filloy in Salamanca. He may not be a revolutionary but his commitment to continuous innovation is at the core of the business. This year is the rst that the company received Gold for two of its cheeses.
“These are both made with raw sheep’s milk and we leave them to age for enough time to achieve the avour and aroma that we are looking for,” says Marco Rodriguez. “We use the traditional production methods that we have used for the past 50 years.”
The approach clearly works: in total El Pastor received 10 awards – in addition to the Golds, it was awarded three Silvers and ve Bronzes.
The award-winning cheesemakers heralding tradition and cra are joined by a new wave of cheesemakers who are experimenting with di erent methods and ingredients. Among them is Pablo Goicoechea, the man behind Quesería Artesanal Las Cortas. His blue cheese, awarded a Gold medal at the World Cheese Awards, is made using raw sheep’s milk, which he says is unusual for blue cheeses. And this is further aside from the pack with the addition of the fermented drink ke r.
“It is quite complex and it gives the cheese a whole di erent character and avour” he says. “I always loved to drink ke r myself so when I started making cheese I thought ‘why not use it in the cheese’.”
It is true that Castile and Leon is a great milk-producing region, he says, but the spirit of adventure found in some of the makers is another
One of them, the Queso Oveja Curado has been a part of the business for almost 100 years. “This cheese is made with raw sheep’s milk from our lands and is characterised by a pleasant sweet avour,” says García.
The other Gold medal winner is brand new for the producer. The Queso Mezcla Curado is made using the raw milk from the sheep grazing in Los Arribes on the banks of the Duero River and the avour is comparable to that of an Italian Grana Padano cheese.
“I just love cheese and the World Cheese Awards recognition is so special for us,” says García. “We are always working to make improvements and tweak our product to try new things.”
He adds that there is a lot of pride among the cheesemakers in Castile and León.
“As a country, we are among the ones to win the most prizes in the World Cheese Awards and on a national level we are doing great work, from producing the milk to making the cheese.”
Marco Rodriguez from Quesos El Pastor agrees that key to the great cheeses is the superlative milk produced in Castile and León. He believes that the quality of the pastures and the climate in this part of Spain combine to produce great cheese.
“Working with great milk means we produce a fantastic cheese,” he says. “This is one of the best regions in the world for cheese.”
For more information elpastor.com quesosfilloy.com queserialascortas.com laqueseriademaria.com queserialospayuelos.com
Contact: promocion.ice@jcyl.es
In Northern Germany, lies a farm near the sea with a flat landscape and green pastures. Here, two brothers are making cheese. One produces the purest of milk and the other turns it into handmade art: Cheese from Backensholz.
Seven of their cheeses received awards at the World Cheese Awards 2024. "Michel" even achieved super gold.
Michel
Friesisch Blue, Hofkäse, Kleiner Deichkäse
Bauerntaler, Husumer, Kleine Ziege
Baron Bigod’s maker set to launch Reblochon-style cheese in January
By Patrick McGuigan
More than 10 years a er launching the brie-style Baron Bigod, Su olk cheesemaker Fen Farm Dairy is taking inspiration from France once again with a new cheese.
Rædwald is a new seasonal washed rind cheese, which is similar to the famous PDOprotected Haute-Savoie cheese Reblochon, that is used to make Tarti ette.
The cheese is named a er an Anglo-Saxon king who may have once worn the famous mask found at the Sutton Hoo burial mound in Su olk. It will only be available between January and March when there is a surplus of rich winter milk from the farm’s herd of Montbeliarde cows.
It follows in the footsteps of the hugely popular Baron Bigod, which is based on Brie de Meaux and was launched when the Bungay-based farm started making cheese in 2013.
Like Reblochon, Rædwald will be packaged with wooden disks on either side to protect the rind and will even carry a green logo similar to the ones seen on French cheese to denote ‘fermier’ (farmhouse) production.
“I learned from Baron Bigod that cheesemongers like a clear, strong story,” said
Fen Farm co-owner Jonny Crickmore. “We’ve tasted Reblochon in the Savoie that has been incredible, but we haven’t found one that has been as good back in the UK.”
The pasteurised cheese, which weighs 1.2kg (more than twice the size of Reblochon), is washed twice in brine to create a bronze-coloured rind over its 4-5 week maturing period. It can be served on a cheeseboard or in hot dishes, such as Tarti ette, said Crickmore.
“It’s one of my favourite dishes, so we’ve come up with our own version called Bungay ette, with hot, stretchy Rædwald and potatoes.”
Cheese for cooking has been a big trend in supermarkets recently with
NEWS IN BRIEF
Welsh cheesemaker Caws Teifi in Llandysul is investing £100k to improve energy efficiency. The funding will enable the maker of Celtic Promise to install a solar panel, battery storage and vehicle charging point.
Somerset-based Keen’s Cheddar has been named People’s Cheese Champion, after three rounds of public voting. The awards’ live online final was broadcast from Mrs Kirkham’s in Lancashire.
Wensleydale Creamery has released five limited-edition Wallace & Gromit waxed cheeses ahead of the new film Vengeance Most Fowl, which will air on the BBC this Christmas. The range includes Mature Cheddar, Yorkshire Wensleydale and Yorkshire Wensleydale with Cranberries.
sales of baking cheeses, especially camembert, growing rapidly. Tesco reported earlier this year that it had seen a 500% increase in sales of baking cheeses since Covid, a trend that Crickmore said could bene t both Baron Bigod and the new cheese, although he made it clear he intends to remain loyal to the independent trade.
“We could sell to a big supermarket, but we don’t want to sell out beyond the existing customers we already have who have a similar mindset to us,” said Crickmore. “By launching the new cheese it means we can hopefully grow with the people we already supply. fenfarmdairy.co.uk
Online cheese and wine retailer Mouse & Grape, started by owner Jessica Summer as an Instagram page in 2020, has opened its first physical shop in Pinner, North West London. The shop and bar serves a range of cheeses, wines and accompaniment for takeaway and for eating in. Mouse & Grape is one of several new cheese shops that have opened in recent weeks. Others include Cheese! Louise in Alton, Hampshire, Victoria’s Cheese in Ely, Cambridgeshire, and a second shop for The Bristol Cheesemonger.
THREE WAYS WITH...
Old Farmdal
Made by Kaasboerderij ‘T Groendal in West Flanders and affineur Van Tricht in Antwerp, this Belgian gouda is aged for around a year, but tastes like it is much older thanks to its crystalline texture and rich, savoury flavour. It was sent to the International Space Station at the request of US astronaut Shannon Walker, who is a big fan, and has since been nicknamed ‘Space Cheese’.
Belgian Ale
Put down the corkscrew. A Belgian cheese deserves a Belgian beer and the plummy tones of Chimay Rouge is just right with the almost boozy notes found in the cheese. The Trappist dubbel is rich and warming with Christmas cake dried flavours.
Cranberry Toasts
Old Farmdal is imported by the Fine Cheese Co, whose crunchy toasts studded with dried fruit and seeds make a particularly good match. Try Miller’s Cranberry & Raisin Toasts, which also contain pumpkin seeds. The sweet fruits pick up on butterscotch notes in the cheese, while also providing a nice burst of acidity.
Chocolate Figs
Continuing the dried fruit theme, there’s something very satisfying about a few dark chocolate covered figs with Old Farmdal. The figgy flavour complements the sweetness in the cheese and there’s a satisfying chew, while the bitterness from the chocolate adds an intriguing sub-note. Forest Feast Dark Chocolate Figs are a good bet.
Similar in style to French Reblochon, Rædwald is named after an AngloSaxon king
CHEESE
Tunworth production moved north to Butlers’ Lancashire farmhouse site
By Patrick McGuigan
Production of Tunworth and Winslade has moved to Lancashire following the acquisition of Hampshire Cheese Co by Butlers Farmhouse Cheeses in March.
The iconic British cheeses were moved to Butlers production site in Inglewhite in September to better meet rising orders at Christmas, while Hampshire Cheeses’ premises near Basingstoke are being used as a cheese distribution hub for the south of England.
Stacey Hedges, who set up Hampshire Cheeses in 2005, and cheesemaker Charlotte Spruce continue to work closely with Butlers, said owner Matthew Hall, who has kept customers informed of the process by welcoming retailers to the Lancashire site.
The company has also launched a trade website where customers can order Butlers cheeses directly, including Tunworth, Winslade, Blacksticks Blue and Raven’s Oak.
CHEESE IN PROFILE with
Reblochon
What’s the story?
Reblochon has its roots in the mountainous HauteSavoie region of Eastern France. Here, small farms still follow the tradition of herding their cows up towards the Alpine peaks each summer to graze on distinct mountain pastures. In winter, the
“Tunworth and Winslade sales continue to go from strength to strength, and with the Christmas trading period so key for the independent sector, it was important to have the foundations in place to deliver the Christmas sales peak,” said Hall, who is the fourthgeneration owner of Butlers.
“In conjunction with Stacey and Charlotte, we agreed that production would be best served from our farmhouse dairy in Inglewhite, with the Hampshire site continuing to act as a maturation space,
providing customers with the exibility to collect their cheese from a location that suits them. Our new trade portal enables customers to place orders online and track Christmas orders from dairy to shelf.”
The acquisition of Hampshire Cheeses followed a turbulent time for Butlers, which su ered a devastating re at its Longridge maturing and packing site in November 2023. The company is currently constructing new facilities at Longridge, which should open next year.
BEHIND THE COUNTER TIPS OF THE TRADE
Simon Warren, The East Street Deli, Wimbourne, Dorset
After opening their shop in 2020, Simon and Claire Warren have got enough Christmases under their belts to make sure this one goes smoothly. “We’ve got previous years’ sales to help guide our orders, so we can place them early,” says Simon Warren. “We also ask customers to pre-order by early December so we can top up afterwards if we need to.”
The deli has a walk-in fridge which makes stockpiling cheese easier, but Warren is aiming to limit the number of new lines this year to ease pressure on storage and replenishing the counter. He is also storing soft cheeses in the colder parts of the fridge to slow down maturation.
“In previous years we’ve gone a bit overboard ordering novelty cheeses, but we’re keeping it to a minimum this year. People tend to want their favourites from throughout the year at Christmas anyway.”
The retailer has also been encouraging customers to be more adventurous with their accompaniments using Instagram Reels, labelled the Christmas Chronicles, to recommend innovative pairings, such as Gorgonzola and panettone and Christmas pudding with Stilton.
cows are sheltered in barns and fed hay harvested during the summer months.
Reblochon’s origins trace back to the 13th century in the Thônes valley of Haute-Savoie, where farmers were taxed based on their cows’ milk production. To outsmart the tax collectors, these clever dairymen would partially milk their cows for inspection, saving the rest to make cheese after the officials had gone. The cheese’s name, Reblochon, comes from the term “reblocher,” meaning “to milk again”.
Variations: None
Cheesemonger tip: Pairs perfectly with fruity red wines or medium-bodied whites. Reblochon adds a touch of Alpine flavour to your cheeseboard.
Appearance & texture:
How is it Made?
Reblochon is a washed-rind cheese that begins production by renneting milk at 33-35°C, allowing it to set
within 10-20 minutes. Each cheese is then pressed with a weight of 1.5-2.0 kg (or 500g for a smaller version) to facilitate whey drainage. The cheese is moulded and salted before spending four days in a séchoir, or drying room, at 14-21°C with at least 90% humidity. During this stage, the rind undergoes washing in an unflavoured solution. Following initial ripening, the cheese matures at 10-15°C for a minimum of 15 days, promoting the development of beneficial rind microflora.
Reblochon is a rich and complex cheese with earthy, nutty, and buttery notes. It has a smooth, even rind that is washed during the maturation phase, giving it a yellow-orange colour with a light dusting of white mould. The interior of Reblochon is ivorycoloured with a slightly elastic texture that softens as it ages, though it seldom becomes runny.
Reblochon is one of the 75 cheeses studied as part of the Academy of Cheese Level Two Certification. For more information on this and all of the AoC’s courses, head to: academyofcheese.org in
Chef’s recommendation: Reblochon is a fantastic ingredient in an Alpine tartiflette. A classic aprèsski dish, originating from France’s Haute-Savoie region, it is a traditional gratin made with potatoes, lardons, onions and melted Reblochon. Serve it with rich Savoyard white wines, made with local grapes like Roussanne and Roussette.
Tunworth’s Hampshire site has been retained as a maturation area
LEARN | TASTE | UNDERSTAND | COMMUNICATE
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PARMIGIANO REGGIANO: TRADITION BECOMES INNOVATION
From the heart of the Reggio Emilia Apennines comes a product of the finest quality At our mountain cheese dairies we follow the artisan method to offer a complete range in all its different ageing properties. In doing this, we always push ourselves one step further, seeking innovation in tradition, especially when it comes to animal welfare, which is why our entire supply chain is sustainable and certified according to the Classyfarm protocol.
Once upon a time in Portugal…
This year saw the World Cheese Awards take place in the Portuguese city of Viseu – a place at the very heart of the country’s traditional cheesemaking area. Cheeses and judges ew in from every corner of the world but one local cheese proved it could hold its own against all comers. This full report on the awards covers the days proceedings, all of the trophy winners and more…
By Tanwen Dawn-Hiscox and Michael Lane
A so , spoonable sheep’s milk cheese made by a Spanish cheesemaker in Portugal was named the best cheese on the planet at the 2024 World Cheese Awards.
A er 4,786 cheeses from 47 countries were judged, Queijo de Ovelha Amanteigado made by Quinta do Pomar came out on top at the awards, held in the city of Viseu in central Portugal.
Made with raw sheeps’ milk and vegetarian thistle rennet (known as cardoon), the winning cheese is normally eaten by cutting o the top and spooning out its almost liquid paste. When introducing the cheese at the nal stage
Photography by Paulo Fernandes
of judging, author and expert Patrick McGuigan said: “That thistle rennet gives the cheese a wonderful breakdown so it goes very gooey and buttery but then you get this lovely herbal bitterness as well. This is a really good example of that balance.”
Quinta do Pomar’s triumph was the grand nale to the World Cheese Awards, staged for the 36th time by organisers the Guild of Fine Food – for the rst time in Portugal.
Speaking on Zoom to the live audience at the awards, cheesemaker Sonia Marroyo said that it was “really very important” that the cheese won when the event was held so locally to the business, just under 40 miles from the event.
cheese, the producer also makes varieties with goats’ milk and mixed milk cheeses, as well as PDO cheeses like Queijo da Beira Baixa.
In terms of scale, this year’s competition –already the world’s largest cheese-only awards – was the most signi cant to date, with a record number of entries.
You can rewatch the World Cheese Awards on WCA TV at gff.co.uk/awards/worldcheese-awards alongside highlights, results and key information about the competition.
4,786 cheeses from 47 countries were evaluated by 240 judges from 40 countries, with experts in the eld of cheese such as technologists and cheese graders, as well as retailers and buyers, chefs and journalists.
HOW THE JUDGING WORKS
Judges work in teams of two or three, identifying any cheeses worthy of a Bronze, Silver or Gold award. They assess the look, feel, smell and taste of each entry, scoring aspects such as the appearance of the rind and paste as well as the cheese’s aroma, body and texture, with the majority of points awarded for flavour and mouthfeel.
Each team then nominates one exceptional cheese as the Super Gold from their table. These cheeses are the best in the world and are judges a second time by the Super Jury of 16 internationally recognised experts, who each select a cheese to champion in the final round of judging.
The International Super Jury, representing all four corners of the globe, then debates the final 16 in front of a live audience, before choosing the World Champion Cheese live on WCA TV.
WCA IN NUMBERS
The 36TH WORLD CHEESE AWARDS saw record-breaking entries - 4,786 cheeses from 47 different countries.
In total these filled 104 tables in the hall at the Pavilhão Multiusos de Viseu.
The entries were then judged in a three-hour session by an international panel of 240 judges from 39 nations, to determine whether they were worthy of a World Cheese Awards medal.
2,121 entries achieved an award this year, including 104 Super Golds, 311 Golds, 695 Silvers and 896 Bronzes.
Full results at gff.co.uk/wca
and retailer Neşe Biber – who whittled down the 104 cheeses to a nal 14.
The Super Jury then sat with panel hosts Nigel Barden, Leyla Kazim and Patrick McGuigan to elect the World Champion Cheese, tasting and scoring each of the Top 14 with a mark out of 7.
Manuel Maia, who championed the cheese to the Super Jury panel of judges during the awards’ nale praised the winning cheese’s balance.
“It’s a sublime match of protein and fat,” he said, later adding: “This cheese is an icon, it’s like our Ei el Tower.”
The business was founded in 1983 by Joaquim Duarte Alves and has received a number of awards for its cheeses since upgrading its dairy in 2015. As well as its World Champion sheeps’ milk
A er a three-hour session, tasting and awarding medals [see box above], each table then elected a Super Gold, which was brought before a Super Jury of leading gures in the cheese world – including the president of France’s Guilde Internationale des Fromagers Roland Barthélémy, Whole Foods Market’s food product development & innovation manager Joey Wells and Turkish cheese author
Director of the Guild of Fine Food John Farrand said: “The Portuguese cheesemakers have done their country proud. Our World Champion cheese is typical of the central region of Portugal. It is testament to the fact that perhaps cheese is best enjoyed, close to its home, embracing the terroir.”
Turn the page to discover all the major trophy winners, the winner of Young Cheesemonger of the Year and the host nation for the next World Cheese Awards
WORLD CHEESE AWARDS 2024-25
BEST AMERICAN CHEESE
Bayley Hazen Blue Cellars at Jasper Hill
Sponsored by
BEST AUSTRALIAN CHEESE
Raw Tom Bruny Island Cheese Co.
BEST AUSTRIAN CHEESE
Kronprinz Rudolf
Obersteirische Molkerei
Sponsored by
BEST BELGIAN CHEESE
Lotenhulle Rouge Little Cheese Farm
BEST FRENCH CHEESE
Ossau Iraty PDO Agour
Sponsored by
BEST GERMAN CHEESE
Baldauf 1862 Meisterstück
Alpkäse
Baldauf Käse
Sponsored by
BEST GREEK CHEESE
Graviera Naxou PDO Pittara
Nikolaos Emm. Pittaras
BEST IRISH CHEESE
Mount Leinster Clothbound
Coolattin Cheddar
Sponsored by
AND THE WORLD CHAMPION IS... QUEIJO DE OVELHA AMANTEIGADO QUINTA DO POMAR
Nuno Alves & Sonia Marroyo of Quinta do Pomar with World Champion Cheese 2024
THE TOP 14 CHEESES AT WCA 2024
Queijo de Ovelha
Amanteigado
Quinta do Pomar, Portugal
Tea Fondada
Chascharia Val Müstair, Switzerland
Alpenhorn Mifroma
Elsa Group (Mifroma), Switzerland
La Cava Barus García-Baquero, Lacteas Garcia Baquero S.A., Spain
Bayley Hazen Blue Cellars at Jasper Hill, USA
Pecorino Bislacco al Rum e Tabacco
F.lli Petrucci, Italy
OTHER AWARDS WON BY QUINTA DO POMAR
Best Female Cheesemaker
Best Portuguese Cheese
Sponsored by
Best Raw Milk Cheese
Sponsored by
Blugins La Casearia Carpenedo, Italy
Affineur Walo
Creamy Lion Cheese from Thurgau Walo von Mühlenen, Switzerland
Passionata Biopark, Brazil
Snertingdal ysteri Godbiten
Snertingdal ysteri drift AS, Norway
Alte Hexe 9 Monate gereift
Bodensee Käse Switzerland
Valleclaro
Quesos y Besos, Spain
Baldauf 1862 Meisterstück
Alpkäse Baldauf Käse, Germany
Tatie
Latteria Moro di Moro Sergio, Italy
Mount Leinster Clothbound
WORLD CHEESE AWARDS 2024-25
HOME NATION’S “TORCH BEARER”
HONOURED
The founder of exporter Tradifoods, Manuel Maia, was this year’s recipient of the Exceptional Contribution to Cheese trophy at the World Cheese Awards.
Maia, whose firm supplies artisan Portuguese cheeses and other fine foods to businesses across the world, was presented with his trophy by Neal’s Yard Dairy director – and fellow WCA Super Juror – Jason Hinds.
“In many ways, Portuguese cheese heritage is much like that of the UK,” he told his fellow judges at the postjudging dinner. “While it is one that goes back centuries, it is not globally recognised like that of France, Italy or even Spain and yet is producing cheeses of equal greatness.”
Hinds added that it had been Maia who had first tasted him through a range of Portugal’s best cheeses.
“Since then, and over the last three decades, we have rubbed shoulders at many industry events in different parts of the globe, each championing the cheeses from our respective countries.
“I can safely say that this person here has been the principle torch bearer for the finest cheese from Portugal, and yet his humility would probably cause them to refute the impact that they have on introducing Portuguese cheeses to many palates across the globe for the very first time.” tradifoods.com
BRITISH CHEESES WILL STILL BE JUDGED DESPITE PORTUGUESE CUSTOMS ISSUES
Despite the best efforts of WCA organiser the Guild of Fine Food, cheeses from some countries did not make it to the judging tables in Viseu after failing to clear customs in Portugal –including the entrants from the UK. In order to make sure that the British entrants to the competition receive the same treatment, the Guild is now staging a judging day at its Dorset HQ.
their paces – as they would have been if they’d been allowed to compete in Viseu.
A team of judges, most of whom were at this year’s awards, will put these cheeses through
In an official statement regarding the customs problems that prevented some entrants from competing, the Guild said:
“We are very disappointed not all cheeses made it to Viseu, despite all our entrants, our consolidated shippers and the Guild of Fine Food submitting paperwork correctly and on time, and following the correct process
BEST ITALIAN CHEESE Pecorino
Bislacco al Rum e Tabacco F.lli Petrucci SRL Sponsored by
BEST JAPANESE CHEESE Setana Cheesedom Sponsored by
BEST LATIN AMERICAN CHEESE Passionata Biopark (Brazil) Sponsored by
BEST NETHERLANDS CHEESE
MA Montbeliarde Kaashandel Remijn
BEST NORWEGIAN CHEESE Snertingdal ysteri Godbiten Snertingdal ysteri drift AS Sponsored by
BEST SOUTH AFRICAN CHEESE
Oak Smoked Stanford Klein River Cheese Sponsored by
as agreed with the Portuguese authorities.
“We appreciate that this whole set of circumstances has been deeply disappointing for the cheesemakers involved, and we share your frustration. It has been a heartbreaking situation for us as an organisation, and the first time in our 36-year history that we have had such difficulty with the import and export of UK cheeses.
“We would like to reiterate that none of this has been the result of any action or inaction by either the cheesemakers or the Guild of Fine Food, and we are resolute in putting new processes in place to make sure this does not happen again.”
BEST SPANISH CHEESE La Cava Barus García-Baquero Lacteas Garcia Baquero S.A. Sponsored by
WORLD CHEESE AWARDS 2024-25
PAXTON’S ILIEV TAKES TITLE OF YOUNG CHEESEMONGER OF THE YEAR
While the Super Jury members were tasting their way through the Super Golds, the main stage at the WCAs played host to the finals of the Young Cheesemonger of the Year.
The 2024 edition of the contest, run by the Academy of Cheese, was won by Daniel Iliev, the shop manager at the Jermyn Street branch of Paxton & Whitfield in London.
Bulgarian-born Iliev, who trained at The Fine Cheese Co. and was the manager of La Fromagerie in Highbury before joining Paxton’s, took the title following five rounds designed to test the skills, cheese knowledge and palates of the six finalists.
Iliev took part alongside Mia Crouch from Supercheese in Melbourne, Australia, who was named eventual runner-up.
The other finalists were Orla Jackson from Neal’s Yard Dairy; Lily Jenkins from Hill Street in Hobart, Tasmania; Dominic Jones from Rennet & Rind in Cambridgeshire; and Jack Welch from Cheese Etc. – The Pangbourne Cheese Shop in Berkshire.
Shortly after stepping off the stage, Iliev said: “My heart’s about to explode, I’m still shaking.”
He impressed the judges with his Perfect Pairing, despite having to improvise after his original accompaniment of black garlic jam was confiscated at Gatwick airport.
Using his tasting skills and creativity, Iliev sourced a local pumpkin & orange jam with rosemary & eucalyptus honey to pair with King Stone Dairy’s Rollright atop a Rosemary & Sea Salt sourdough cracker. While this proved a big hit with the
judges, it was Iliev’s accurate cutting to weight and meticulous wrapping in the practical skills round that secured his win - as well as answering almost all of the ‘MasterRind’ quiz questions correctly.
“Winning means such a lot to me.” said Iliev, “The competition was fun, challenging and fantastic for connecting with other people in the industry.” His prizes include a place on the Academy of Cheese’s Level 2 training course, and an invitation to judge at the World Cheese Awards in 2025. academyofcheese.org
YOU NEXT YEAR… IN SWITZERLAND
The next World Cheese Awards will take place in Bern, Switzerland, with the city’s brand new Festival Hall as the venue for judging and associated activities on 13th-15th November 2025.
It is the first time that the country has hosted the awards.
A small delegation from the Guild of Fine Food’s partners in the host nation, Switzerland Cheese Marketing (SCM), traveled to this year’s awards in Viseu for a formal announcement made during the judges’ dinner and to take up the baton from Portugal.
“We are very pleased that Switzerland’s candidacy has prevailed and that the next World Cheese Awards will take place in Switzerland for the first time,” says Martin Spahr, CMO of SCM, which is a non-profit organization that promotes sales of the country’s cheese both at home and abroad.
BEST SWISS CHEESE Alpenhorn Mifroma Elsa Group (Mifroma)
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BEST SMOKED CHEESE Oak Smoked Stanford Klein River Cheese (South Africa)
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Funded by the European Union. Views and opinions expressed are however those of the author(s) only and do not necessarily reflect those of the European Union or The Ministry of Agriculture, Fisheries and Food of Spain. Neither the European Union nor the granting authority can be held responsible for them.
New charcuterie on shelves and in the pipeline following Rare & Pasture, Tempus merger
By Tanwen Dawn-Hiscox
Devon-based Rare & Pasture has developed two new pâtés and a pastrami, introducing its rst new lines since merging with Sussex-based Tempus.
In an interview with FFD, Tempus co-founder Dhruv Baker said the deal was what had created capacity to develop new smoked and cooked products, adding that he was open to the idea of nding more “like-minded businesses that would t within the group”.
The new pâtés, with Green Peppercorn & Mace and another with Mixed Wild Mushrooms & Cognac join Rare & Pasture’s classic, coarse French pâté made with pork liver and white wine. Meanwhile the pastrami which is made with regenerative beef and won the ‘Not Yet on the Shelf’ award at the Speciality & Fine Food Fair, is set to launch soon.
Another planned range will use free-range British Ibérico Pork reared by celebrated chef Brett Graham of the Ledbury, fed on soya-free feed supplemented with rapeseed pressings.
Rare & Pasture is even working with Tesco on a range of charcuterie, with a new brand called The Curing Barn.
In a move towards higher welfare standards across both brands, the aim is to soon sell only 100% regenerative, organic beef, and free-range pork – because organic pork is hard to come by in the UK.
All of this – the NPD, the focus on standards and the possibility of taking on small, large and “not niche but very speci c” projects –Baker said, is possible thanks to the ongoing commercial viability of brands like Tempus and Rare & Pasture.
Ultimately, he hopes that taking on these
projects will lead to an increase of choice for consumers, “and what will come out of this is something resembling an identity for British charcuterie,” he said.
Comparing charcuterie production to that of traditional method wine, or cheese – which require investment and cash ow – he said charcuterie producers in the UK need a nancially robust model. “And actually consolidation is a lot quicker and less risky than organic growth, so I think what you’ll end up seeing, as opposed to lots and lots of very small producers in a very fragmented market, is more consolidation.”
New to the crackling game, Mr Filbert’s take on traditional Spanish Cortezas come in two iterations: Authentic Ibérico Ham flavour, and a Mexican Chilli & Lime flavour. Both are air-dried, slow-cooked and popped for crunch, and have no added oils. Cases come in six packs of 150g resealable bags. Available to retailers as well as to foodservice providers with the option of free glass display jars and scoops. RRP £5.95, £3.89 to trade. filbertsfinefoods.co.uk
After a hiatus in 2024, plans for the World Charcuterie Awards 2025 are underway, under new ownership.
Having introduced the awards in 2023, founder Henrietta Green has handed it over to food consultancy business, Zenith Global.
In an interview with FFD, events director Francesca Hall explained that as Zenith Global has been hosting events celebrating up and coming food & drink categories for the past 30 years, it hoped to bring the right skillset to the World Charcuterie Awards.
timely move.
At least in Tempus’ case, he said, the merger with Rare & Pasture – which saw him take the reins of sales and distribution across both brands, but kept production separate – has felt justi ed. “There will always be businesses which aren’t doing as well as they can be but should be – and do – with the right support.”
“We’re always saying that if there are like-minded businesses that would t within the group, and that we can help accelerate their growth and help develop this industry, we will.”
tempusfoods.com
rareandpasture.com
“As a company, we try to follow where opportunity and growth is and where an industry will really benefit from extra recognition and information sharing.”
for 2025
eight classes as before, and as well as Champion producers, recognised for performing well across at least three classes, Zenith is introducing additional ‘Stars’ to increase the awards’ exposure, for the Best Artisan Producer; Best Newcomer; Best Innovator; Best Organic Product; Best Halal Product; Best Wild Game Product and Best in UK.
“We can apply our experience and expertise in organising awards, we can make sure that we reach more people, that we streamline things.”
Given the growth of the global charcuterie sector, she added, it felt like a
“If you look at what’s happened to the cheese industry in the UK in recent years, charcuterie is moving in the same direction. It just needs the extra level of exposure for people to understand the scale of excellence and innovation.
Entries have been open since 11th October and will remain open until 14th March 2025, with judging planned for the end of April. Products will be judged across the same
The judging panel will likely be smaller than before, Hall said, “but of a really high calibre. We want people who really are experts in their field.”
Prices will depend on entrants’ annual turnover, with smaller producers paying a reduced fee. Early entrants – before 17th January 2025 – will also benefit from a reduction. worldcharcuterieawards. com
World Charcuterie Awards return
ADD A TOUCH OF CONTINENTAL FLAIR THIS CHRISTMAS
With inflation easing and sales of higher priced products expected to increase over the festive period, the food industry is hoping for a splurge on more luxurious food items this Christmas.
In 2023 Panettone replaced traditional Christmas puddings in many upmarket retailers and this year British supermarket festive ranges are once again full of European flavours and ingredients - such as Stollen from Germany and Panettone and Limoncello from Italy.
According to Simon Atkins, an advisor to the EU’s ‘More Than Only Food & Drink’ campaign with more than 35 years of experience in the UK and EU bakery industry, the UK does a fantastic job of taking a classic and making it their own. He cites the many variations of the size, shapes, and ingredients of Panettone sold in the UK last year as an example of this trend.
This year, Simon expects Stollen to be given the same treatment as Panettone with the Christmas classic Dresdner Christstollen PDO being adapted into different size, shapes and flavours. One innovative supermarket has even added Stollen to its Light Up Rum Liqueur.
Not only does the EU provide a huge range of festive food inspiration for British manufactures to borrow from, but its strict controls and traceability also guarantee the high standards of safety, quality, sustainability, and authenticity demanded by discerning shoppers.
Capitalising on European heritage and traditions
EU quality schemes - Protected Designation of Origin (PDO), Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) protect the names of specific products and promote their unique characteristics, linked to their geographical origin as well as traditional production techniques. Continental cheeses and charcuterie, particularly popular during Christmas, o en feature the red and yellow labels denoting PDO and the blue and yellow labels denoting PGI.
There is a big opportunity for retailers to capitalise on the affordable luxury and experiential qualities of cheese. Cheese writer and educator, Patrick McGuigan, who is a dairy and cheese advisor to the ‘More Than Only Food & Drink’ campaign, offers the following advice: “Allow customers to taste the cheeses, tell the back story through clever merchandising and promotions, and think about matching with other EU products. If someone is buying Queso Manchego PDO for Christmas, it naturally goes well with Jerez PDO, Rioja PDO wine, quince, and Spanish olive oil crackers. Camembert de Normandie PDO is great with Normandy cider or Calvados PGI, whilst Roquefort PDO is delicious with Sauternes PDO and French walnuts.”
Charcuterie platter inspiration
As with cheesemaking, European traditions for curing meats have been perfected over centuries resulting in a bounty of textures and flavours that are perfect for the charcuterie board.
While Italy, France, and Spain have secured global appreciation for Prosciutto, Saucisson, and Iberica ham, many other Member States have a proud heritage in cured meats. Consider offering the following to shoppers who are seeking something different for their festive gatherings.
Tiroler Speck PGI from Austria is one of the region’s oldest specialities, with origins traced back to the 1500s. The meat is dry salted and seasoned with a special blend of spices, cold smoked over beech wood and dried and matured in the crisp Alpine air.
Šebreljski želodec PGI from Slovenia is produced from high quality pork and bacon, minced and blended to produce a cured sausage. The flavour is reminiscent of matured meat and bacon and the aroma is distinctive, with spiced and smokey notes.
Hitting the right note with the beverages
Christmas is also a time to raise a glass and the EU has beverages to suit all occasions. Neil McAndrew, a wine specialist of more than 25 years and advisor to the ‘More Than Only Food and Drink’ campaign, believes that retailers can capitalise on shoppers’ willingness to spend more during the festive season by stocking up on wines in the £15-£20 price bracket. However, he highlights the importance of explaining the story behind the label, by offering shelf-talkers and imagery to highlight the grape variety, characteristics of the terroir and recommended food matches.
Of course, the continent provides much more than wines. Europe offers a diverse range for beer connoisseurs; from the light Pilsners to the Dunkel beers produced under Germany’s Münchener Bier PGI and Belgium’s Trappist beers.
Whatever the tastes of your discerning shopper, the EU can truly provide the excellence and the variety sought for this special time of year.
CATEGORY FOCUS
Conscious consumption
Whether you’re looking to meet the ethical or dietary requirements of customers, our round-up of launches in the organic, free-from and health categories should give you new ideas. And if you’re a er a drink to go with that, you can nd plenty of NPD in the low- and no-alcohol category from page 36.
Compiled by Lynda Searby
Animal-free
Scotch egg
Veg Life has created a plant-based Scotch egg that lets the pigs and chickens off “scotfree”. Using primarily soy and wheat protein, the company has developed a snack that it says resembles its traditional counterpart in appearance, texture and taste, but with fewer calories, less fat and zero cholesterol. Scotchees are available in three flavours – The OG, Taste of the East (chilli, garlic & shallot) and Pub Grub (pickled onions & crisps) – in home-compostable packs. RRP £4.40. veglifeeats.com
Vegans no longer need to miss out on the cheese board thanks to these two new plant-based camemberts from French brand Sojade. Made from cashew nuts, Le Camm’Vert organic cheeses are refined using traditional methods. Trade price £20.75/ case of 4x100g; RRP: £6.90. sojade.eu
Retailers looking for a high welfare bacon brand should check out Oliver Carty & Family’s organic range, which has been expanded to take in dry cured back bacon rashers and dry cured smoked streaky bacon rashers, as well as whole roasting joints. The organic Irish pigs allowed to roam freely outdoors, and the pork is dry cured and matured for seven days before slicing or smoking. olivercarty.ie
This porridge developed by Manchester-based mumpreneur Deepa Vinay is based on hygienically sprouted ragi (finger millet), which is gluten-free. It is also packed with cashews, almonds, walnuts, pistachios, cardamom and dates, providing a nutrition-rich breakfast. Mumsome Foods GlutenFree Millet Mix Porridge has an RRP of £5.50 for 250g; trade price £4.50. mumsome.co.uk
Mr Organic has expanded its range of pasta sauces to include two new ragus, both made in Italy using organic, sun-ripened tomatoes from the producer’s own farm. The Mushroom Ragu and Aubergine Ragu have an RRP of £3.29. mr-organic.com
Biona’s new Organic Super Seed bread is pitched as a smart choice for those looking to steer clear of ultra-processed foods and embrace clean eating. It is a protein rich, sliced loaf, containing fibre-packed oat kernels and 30% seeds. The bread maintains its natural freshness without the use of artificial additives, preservatives, wheat, yeast, sugar or chemical pesticides. RRP £3.79 for a 300g loaf. biona.co.uk
Smoky Tempeh is the latest addition to Better Nature’s ‘supercharged protein’ range, aimed at people who are looking for alternatives to ultra-processed meat substitutes. Simply made from fermented soybeans seasoned with smoked salt, Smoky Tempeh is packed with protein, fibre and prebiotics. It can be crumbled into bolognese, torn into a wrap, or chopped into stir fries and curries. RRP £3. betternaturetempeh.co
These two new chocolate trail mixes from Nibble Simply offer a healthy snacking option. Free from refined sugar, they feature 81% cocoa chocolate chips, nuts and organic dried mango. Both the Lux Choc Nutty Mango Mix and Nutty Choc Fix have an RRP of £1.49. nibblesimply.com
While kefir is traditionally made from fermented cows’ milk, as consumers increasingly seek non-dairy options, water kefir is growing in popularity.
One brand at the forefront of this is BKultured, whose founder, Niamh Hegarty, produces the kefir water from mineral-rich water and organic ingredients on her family farm, in East Cork, Ireland, using a 72hour fermentation process. The result is an organic, vegan-friendly sparkling beverage designed to support gut health while offering a low-sugar alternative to conventional soft drinks.
BKultured is available in two flavours: Jammin Ginger & Turmeric and Sassy Mixed Berry. RRP €3.99 for a 330ml bottle. bkultured.com
Overnight oats have become popular with porridge lovers, because they are a step up nutrition-wise. Coldsoaking raw oats overnight breaks down their naturally occurring starches and makes them higher in fibre and lower on the glycaemic index.
However, they are not quite as quick to prepare as other breakfast options, which is why Jubilee Fox founded The Good Grain, with the promise of making healthboosting breakfasts convenient by taking the work out of overnight oats.
Unlike many of the oat bars and cereals on retailer shelves, The Good Grain’s ready-to-eat overnight oats are free from refined sugars, and made from vegan and gluten-free natural ingredients, including British-sourced oats and nutritious superfoods.
This year has seen the launch of two new SKUs: Cinnamon Swirl and Banana Nut -The Protein Edition. Trade prices range from £3.20-£3.40 depending on quantity; RRP is £4.95. goodgrain.co.uk
Coppola Salerno’s no sugar added, gluten-free Italian tomato sauces are now available in singleserve 180g jars, addressing convenience and food waste concerns. The sauces are made according to traditional recipes and have high fresh tomato and vegetable content. The seven SKUs are: Classico, Arrabbiata, Siciliana, Puttanesca, Napoletana, Bolognese and Montanara RRP £1.60-1.90. coppolafoods.com
Hungarian producer Majomkenyér has unveiled a new range of waste-reducing biscuits. Marketed under its health- and environmentconscious Mokyen brand, the Pistachio, Almond and Hazelnut biscuits incorporate cold-pressed nut oils that would otherwise end up as waste. All three products are free from gluten, dairy, soy and palm oil, and come in FSC certified, carbon-neutral packaging. mokyen.com
Kimmie’s Strawberry Kimchi is the follow-on to Bluebadger Foods’ Original Kimmie’s Kimchi. Instead of using pear to trigger the fermentation process, this product uses strawberries, resulting in a sweeter-but-still-tangy napa cabbage kimchi. RRP £6.50-£8 for 300g; wholesale price £6. bluebadgerfoods.com
Haldy sugar-free turmeric mints are making lots of noise in Singapore and on TikTok, but as yet, they haven’t reached the UK. They promise a convenient way to add turmeric to a daily routine, with no aftertaste or teeth staining, and they come in four vegan-friendly flavours: Lemon, Berries, Peppermint and Apple. haldyplus.com
Dirtea has introduced a deck of vegan gummies that incorporate adaptogenic mushrooms, giving consumers a convenient way to get their health fix on the go. There are four SKUs, each containing a mushroom that targets a specific health area: Lion’s Mane for mental clarity, Chaga for immunity, Cordyceps for energy; and Tremella for skin hydration and elasticity. RRP £29.99 for 60 gummies. dirteaworld.com
Building on the success of its Vanilla and Caramel plant-based ice cream bites, Over The Moo has added a chocolate variant to its deck. Each bag contains eight bites of coconut-milk based ice cream enrobed in dairy-free dark chocolate, providing less than 30 calories per bite. RRP £3.99 for 90g. overthemoo.co.uk
Embark has answered calls from consumers for protein bars that are less processed and more natural tasting, with a range that it crafts by hand in Northern Ireland. The Cookie Dough bar combines a high (17g) protein content with indulgent dark chocolate chunks and wholesome ingredients such as whole almonds, without any added sugar. Trade price £1.45; RRP £2.49. embarkprotein.co.uk
These pocket-sized snack balls from French producer Goorm envelop a whole, roasted hazelnut in dark date. Free from additives, added sugars and sweeteners and crafted from raw, unprocessed ingredients, they are intended as an energising snack for health-conscious consumers. As yet, they are not on sale in the UK, but interested stockists can buy them direct priced at £43.60 for 40 units. danut.fr
has created a coffee alternative for healthconscious consumers. Designed to promote mental clarity and support brain health, this nootropic drink packs in Lion’s Mane mushrooms, maca root, Chaga mushrooms and turmeric RRP £29.99 for 120g. vybey.co.uk
Vybey
free-from and healthy
Sun ower seed butters from Estonia
Offering a point of difference in a space dominated by nutbased spreads, Sunfly sunflower seed butters have already caught the attention of buyers at Selfridges, Fortnum & Mason and Fenwick. The Estonian brand made its UK debut in April, bringing five protein-rich seed butter varieties to the table. The No Added Sugar, Crunchy, Smooth, Chocolate and Sweet & Salty butters are all free from the top 14 allergens. RRP £4.995.99. shopsunfly.com
Ausha has created an infused masala chai that combines the nutritional properties of the ‘superfood’ moringa with the refreshing taste and aroma of chai. Native to India, moringa is a powerhouse of vitamins, minerals and iron. Trade price is £3.95 for 100g; RRP £7.99. ausha.co.uk
Made from Italian Senatore Cappelli, an ancient durum wheat this organic pasta boasts a low glycemic index, making it a balanced choice for those who are watching their blood sugar levels, and a composition that is said to be gentle on digestion. The Makaronar range includes Tagliatelle and Linguine, which have trade price of €2.60; RRP €4.90. makaronar.si
Clearspring has unveiled a trio of organic oat biscuits in Japaneseinspired flavours: Miso Maple, Matcha and Sweet Date. Made by fourth generation family bakers in the Scottish Highlands, the biscuits combine oats with organic coconut oil and olive oil which gives them a depth of flavour, while being refined sugar free, high in fibre and plant-based. RRP £1.49 for 40g. clearspring.co.uk
Nakey Bakey has added Mixed Berry, Apple & Cinnamon and Coconut & Goji Berry to its granola line up. Founded by Megan Murrie out of frustration at the lack of flavourful, healthy free-from foods on offer, the Scottish bakery makes granolas that are free from all top 14 allergens. nakeybakeyco.com
Following success in Portugal and an exclusive trial with Riverford, Acayu cashew cheeses are now available to the UK trade. The organic cream cheese alternatives combine a low carbon footprint with a long shelf life (200 days), a clean ingredient list (no gluten, lactose or added sugar) and a high probiotic count. Trade price is £4 per 180g unit; RRP £6.99. acayu-foods.com
Featuring cherries, chokeberries and currants coated in dark chocolate, Soulel’s new organic dried fruit treats will appeal to healthconscious consumers looking to reconnect with nature. The snacks bring together certified organic ingredients including catnip, nutmeg and ginseng root, with a commitment to purity – meaning no added sugar, sweeteners, toxins, preservatives, or additives. soulelhealth.com
Anastasia’s Pantry’s Lemon & Blueberry Energy Balls are a vegan, gluten-free fuelling option that will satisfy a sweet tooth whilst packing a decent protein punch. They are boxed up for retail in packs of 6 x 35g balls, RRP £8.50. anastasiaspantry.co.uk
Whilst the low & no category is awash with great-tasting beers, there is less choice for the nonbeer drinker or for those who want to avoid gluten. That is why Irish applegrower and cider-maker Mac Ivors has introduced an alcohol-free (0.5% ABV) cider. A lively blend of over ten different apple varieties, the medium cider has an RRP of £1.80 for 330ml. macivors.com
Collider is a new alcohol-free beer brand with a difference - it is infused with Collider’s trademark Unwind blend of functional adaptogens and mushrooms that are believed to have a mood boosting and calming effect. Unwind IPA and Lager are packaged in 330ml cans and glass bottles, priced at £35.04 and £42.00 respectively to the trade for a case of 24. drinkcollider.com
The brewery on the Ramsbury Estate in Wiltshire has added a low alcohol ale to its bottle range. RLA (Ramsbury Low Ale) 0.8% is a light and refreshing pale ale, with a citrus profile and aroma. Trade price is £15.79 for 12 x 500ml. ramsburyestates.co.uk
Cordiality’s 20% ABV cordials offer a lighter, fun way to enjoy alcohol. Made from fruit and botanicals and sweetened with organic agave syrup, they come in three flavours: Rhubarb, Ginger & Thyme; Peach, Pear & Bay; and Blackberry, Lime & Lavender. Mixing 25ml of cordial with sparkling water makes a 3.3% ABV, 39 calorie drink. Trade price £22.45 for 70cl; RRP £36. yourcordiality.com
ZENO Prestige is a new brand of alcohol-free wines for the enthusiast, when they choose to abstain - a choice that founders believe should not involve compromise. ZENO offers five styles: Viura white, Bobal rosé, Tempranillo Cabernet red, Macabeo sparkling NV & Macabeo Garnacha sparkling rosé NV. Trade pricing for a 750ml bottle is £6.60 for still and £7.38 for sparkling. zenowine.com
brand Kaukani is on a mission to redefine ginger beer with an offering that is brewed in France without any additives, colourings, flavours or carbonisation. It’s one of a new generation of fermented ginger beers resurrecting a centuries-old tradition. kaukani.com
Challenger
REVOLUTIONARY DE-ALCOHOLISATION TECHNOLOGY: BREWING THE UK’S FINEST ALCOHOL-FREE BEERS
flour is ancient which from the finest
Our award-winning flour is produced from the finest ancient grains which are sustainably grown in the beautiful British countryside.
Our entire range carry the highly sought after Great Taste 2 and 3 star awards, in recognition of outstanding quality and flavour.
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Decem, a newcomer to the boutique gin space, has identified a gap in the market for mid-strength spirits.
“‘No and low’ is broken, with 99% of menus and shelves being alcohol-free, yet 85% of consumers that are moderating still drink alcohol and they are looking for ‘low’, but it’s not there,” said MasterChef finalist Billy Wright, who launched the brand earlier this year. He describes the venture as a “modern mid-strength spirits company that creates flavour-forward liquids at 10% ABV”. Its inaugural product is a 10% gin distilled with fragrant botanicals - juniper, coriander, angelica, orange and lemon peel - to produce a classic London Dry that is said to be full in flavour yet light in alcohol and calories. Wholesale price £17.87 for 70cl; RRP £29.95. decemdrinks.com
B-Corp Crumbs Brewing and Surrey-based Pilgrim Brewery have collaborated to push the boundaries of what can be achieved via “bread brewing”, launching a low-alcohol beer that also combats food waste. UnWasted, a 2.5% ABV Hazy American Pale Ale is thought to be the first ever beer to be brewed by replacing 50% of the malt in the mash with breadcrumbs.
Morgan Arnell of Crumbs Brewing, explains: “We typically replace 25% of the malt with breadcrumbs. This is because bread simply isn’t as efficient as malt. We’ve always wondered what would happen if you took the proportion of bread even higher, and could it be an interesting way to brew a lower alcohol beer?” It turned out his theory was correct, and the added benefit is that the beer retains the body that is often missing from low-alcohol brews. crumbsbrewing.co.uk
In Nigeria, no celebration is complete without a Chapman – a punchy non-alcoholic cocktail that blends fruit juices, bitters and a hint of grenadine. Frustrated by the lack of globally-inspired and fruity beverages in the UK, Chapman’s has recreated this African icon using blackcurrant, pomegranate and blood orange juices, infused with cucumber and bitters. RRP, £2.99 per can. chapmansoflondon.com
The Oichi Sisters have adopted a luxury alcohol alternative positioning for their latest kombucha introduction. Handcrafted in small batches in the Norfolk countryside, Elevated Elixir promises complex layers of flavours that not only taste delicious but also support the gut microbiome. There are two flavours: White Grape, Verbena and Citrus; and Plum and Coffee. Trade price £11.50 for 750ml; RRP £16.50 oichiferments.co.uk
In October, Sandford Orchards launched Red Zero, a non-alcoholic version of its Devon Red cider. Red Zero is made by filter-extracting the alcohol from alreadyfermented cider, a technique that retains the taste of the Glory, Dabinett and Sweet Alford apples. RRP £2.25. sandfordorchards.co.uk
The Green Life claims to have brought to market the UK’s first fermented ginger beer since the 18th century. This unpasteurised, self-preserving drink is produced from real ginger, panela and lemon juice, and is brimming with probiotic bacteria and wild yeasts.
Wholesale price is £42 for a case of 24 x 330ml bottles; RRP £3.50. thatgreenlife.uk
Marty’s launched its Virgin Bloody Mary in April as an antidote to the sweet drinks that currently dominate the mindful drinking category. The alcohol-free tomato cocktails are vegan, contain only natural sugars, and deliver a healthy dose of gut-loving apple cider vinegar. There are two variants: Spicy, which comes in a 250ml serve (RRP £3.49) and Mild, which comes in a 750ml bottle (RRP £7.99). drinkmartys.com
Hot on the heels of Shorebreak alcohol-free hazy IPA, Firebrand Brewing has rolled out Little Wave – a gluten-free, alcoholfree lager. Containing less than 0.86g of sugar per 100ml, it offers a health-conscious alternative to regular lager. Trade price is £17.85 for 12 x 440ml cans, RRP £4.30 per can. firebrandbrewing.co.uk
Pre-mixed cocktail brand Swish Cocktails has ventured into the low & no space with a range of recipes crafted for those who crave “sophistication without compromise”. The first two cocktails in this collection – Brazilian Lime Margarita Fizz and Dolce & Banana Spritz –launched in September, in both Light (5% ABV) and Zero (0% ABV) versions. Trade price: £2.04; RRP: £3.50. swishcocktails.com
French cider brand Galipette has extended its alcohol-free offer with the launch of a 0.3% ABV rosé crafted from redfleshed Pommes à Chair Rouge from Normandy. A centuries-old keeving process preserves their natural fruity sweetness by preventing the wild yeast from fully fermenting the juice, yielding a refreshing cider with a deep amber hue that varies with each batch. RRP £1.90 for 330ml. galipettecidre.com
The Cambucha’s Summer Cup comes in two bottle sizes - 250ml and 750ml, with RRPs of £4.25 and £10.50. This alcohol-free take on the traditional fruit cup blends notes of aromatic botanicals, fruit and spices. thecambucha.com
Based in Northern Ireland near Lough Neagh shores we grow eco bio fruit and vegetables, we forage wild herbs and fruit from surrounding countryside. We make raw unpasteurized fermented kimchi, 5 types of sauerkrauts, kombucha, water and coconut milk kefirs. We also make diabetic cordials, syrups and fruit confitures with no added sugar or artificial sweeteners- just natural fructose . Our 5 types of pestos and roasted pepper sauce-dips are dense, nutty and made with premium ingredients – no compromise. All products are gluten free, dairy free, vegan friendly and low GI. Due to growing consumer demand we are currently looking for independent retail stores across the UK. All enquiries are welcome at alicia.amberline@yahoo.com or 07935915000. www.amberlinepreserves.com
Britain is our biggest customer when it comes to bakery. Whether you’re craving a nostalgic afternoon tea or lunch-to-go, let us tempt you. We have all the griddle breads, scones, pancakes and traybakes you’d expect, perfect to enjoy with rich, creamy Abernethy butter or award-winning Dromona cheddar. Or how about sandwiches, wraps, pizzas, (Oh!) donuts and Biscakes? And we can make it gluten-free, so there’s something for everyone. Scrumptious. For more information on Northern Ireland’s wide range of quality and innovative bakery products, contact Michelle Charrington E: michelle.charrington@investni.com Soda farls, potato bread, Nutty Krust, Fifteens, Veda, butterfly buns, Joeys. Speaking your language?
to you
Brought
by Invest Northern Ireland. Photograph courtesy of Holmes Bakery.
Clootie Moonshine & Prickly Gin
As is customary, the trade event calendar kicks o at Glasgow’s SEC for Scotland’s Speciality Food & Drink Show. Here’s why you should head north of the border on 19th21th January.
Six reasons to visit… Scotland’s Speciality Food & Drink Show
Nice & new
Of the 100-plus exhibitors, about a third are new to the show. In the Launch Gallery area, check out 8 Doors Distillery, Bealach Gin from Invernesshire and Goat Rodeo Goods condiments, as well as Sour Power Vinegars and chocolatier, The Third Sin. Beyond these newcomers, producers such as Rise & Grind Roastery and The TeaShed are rst-time exhibitors.
Added value
The Show o ers more than just sourcing opportunities, it’s about learning too. There’s a rich programme of panel discussions, including Net Zero Nation on sustainability, Scottish Tourism Alliance’s keynote panel, an interview with Emma Niven of Loch Leven’s Larder, as well as practical masterclasses on all aspects of retailing.
The best of artisan Scottish food & drink
Given the talents of Scotland’s producers, visitors will enjoy tasting new delicacies from companies such as Great Glen Charcuterie, Island Larder, Stewart Tower Dairy, Kilted Fudge Co and Angels Dare Cocktails, as we as nd the latest catalogue additions at distributor The Cress Co.
Awarding the best
Sponsored by The Gi ware Association, the event’s awards will take on a new format this year, with a display of winners in the centre of the Show and a high pro le ceremony at the end of the rst day.
Explore the regions
Among the many highlights of the show are the regional stands, with a host of artisan producers demonstrating what each regional speciality can produce. The Orkney stand will have cheeses, ice cream, oat cakes and more from the islands, while Food from Argyll has an array of delicacies, such as Isle of Mull Cheese and Isle of Mull Co ee.
Bene cial partnerships
The 2025 Show is being organised in partnership with Scotland Food & Drink who will bring some of its members, as well as key buyers. The show is also run in conjunction with Scotland’s Trade Fair, a ording buyers a ‘one-stop’ platform to source food & drink, as well as gi s, textiles, homewares, and cra s. scotlandstradefairs.com 1 4 2 5 3 6
KEY DATES
Bursary applications: 9 December - 5 January
Members’ entry: 9 December - 9 January
General entry: 6 - 21 January
For more information visit g .co.uk/greattaste or scan the QR code to sign up for entry alerts
www.jameswhelanbutchers.com |
Crispy bits from Sichuan
A er ten years of teaching in Beijing, Tom Palmer decided to bring back some of his favourite regional Chinese products to the UK - by making them himself.
Interview by Tanwen Dawn-Hiscox
What were you doing before starting Yep Kitchen?
When I lived in the UK I worked in bars and restaurants. Then I wanted to go and travel, so I did a TEFL course and went to Beijing in China to teach English as a foreign language. I was only going to do one year, but I loved it so much that I stayed for almost ten.
I learned Mandarin and started teaching at an international school. I created a cooking class as part of my history curriculum, implementing cooking into the studies. That’s when my passion for food really started to come through. We also got three and a half months paid holiday a year, which was great for traveling around China and to neighbouring countries.
Where did the idea for Yep Kitchen come from?
Whenever I came home, I would always bring back things to people, which they said were amazing and that they couldn’t get anywhere else.
When travelling in Sichuan province, you’d have these family-owned shops making their own by hand in massive wooden bowls. They’d be so amazing and fresh. Those are the products I want to showcase.
Can you talk us through the range?
We started with the Chilli Crisp because it’s so many people’s favourite product from the Sichuan region. Then from there was the Garlic Chilli with Beef. In China chilli with meats is really common – beef, pork, chicken, duck – all sorts.
Then, because it’s for the UK market, we did a vegan version, which is the Garlic Chilli Oil.
The last one – the Hunan Salted Chillies –
The ll has to be consistent because we have a ‘Golden Ratio’ of bits to oil
was the hardest to get right, because it’s a twoweek fermentation and I’m not a fermenter, so the science behind it was new to me.
Apart from tweaking those, we’ve made a big switch this year in the base for the crispy chilli and chilli oils : we changed from re ned imported rapeseed oil to cold-pressed rapeseed oil from Norfolk. It adds this subtle seedy, nutty avour without adding seeds or nuts.
It’s a really nice marriage of my two homes, and I want to be respectful to the culture that
I’m representing. That’s also why we were really dedicated to the artwork being produced by Chinese artists – it’s by a creative brand called Plastered 8 and their artwork is amazing. It’s traditional, but sarcastic. I love it.
How did you go about selling your products? We launched online in November 2022. In January I joined farmers’ markets, and did Fulham market and Brook Green every Saturday and Sunday for six months – it was great.
Three months in, I got a message on Instagram from Selfridges. We were so not ready to be listed in retail – we were still on our old branding, we didn’t have barcodes, we didn’t have loads of the legal requirements that you need to be listed in a shop – so we were like, ‘okay, how do we make this work?’ That message is what made us kickstart the rebrand.
Then I got a distributor – Mahalo – and that opened up a whole world of retail. By December of that year, we were in 50 shops, with a really
good rate of sale. Now we have 150 plus stockists.
Did you have any issues scaling up production?
Not really, no, because as a Mission Kitchen [workspace for food founders] member, I had a path to scale within the building – twice – until we ran out of space.
Now, we’ve moved to Sunny Park Royal in North Acton, but we’re looking to outsource. I thought we would be manufacturing the whole way up but it’s just really expensive. As much as it’s great – we have better margins and more control – it’s also detrimental to our time.
The hardest part of where we are now is nding manufacturers. We’re adamant on two things: the ll has to be consistent because we’ve got a ‘golden ratio’ of bits to oil. The second is that we want to use fresh produce – a lot of manufacturers use IQF [individually quick-frozen produce], but it a ects the texture. Meanwhile you’ve got the likes of Innocent using fresh fruit, so it’s 100% possible, and I’m not going to take no for an answer. Pushing for quality is one of our core values, and if it doesn’t work, we’re going to keep making it ourselves.
In terms of expansion, are you focusing on retail or foodservice?
We’ve developed a 2kg catering tub of our chilli crisp. Next year will be a really big foodservice push for us because I think brand collaborations have a lot of value for both parties.
In terms of retail, the mission is to get these products into as many kitchens as possible. So for us, that means big retail. How we do it is the tricky part because we’re a premium product due to the process and the ingredients. So certain supermarkets just won’t work.
We launched in Booths last month, which was our rst big multi-listing supermarket. We’re also going live in a very well-known UK major player in Q1 next year. We’re also entering our rst international market. And we want to keep pushing independent retail, because it’s the perfect place for our products. yepkitchen.com
PRODUCTS & MERCHANDISING
Devagiri Teas says ‘farm-to-table’ range gives quality tea a fair price
By Tanwen Dawn-Hiscox
Newcomer to the UK market Devagiri Teas has introduced a range of ‘farm-to-table’ products which it claims has turned the 77-year old estate in Sri Lanka’s business model on its head, shortening the supply chain to make it fairer, more transparent, cost-e ective and sustainable, all the while promising to keep the price approachable for average consumers.
The range includes a ‘Breakfast Tea’, Earl Grey, Vanilla, Cardamom Chai and Cinnamon, sold as loose leaf or in boxes of 20 teabags, on which co-managing director Roshana Gammapila guarantees a 30% margin for retailers, and the same RRP as well-known, mid-range brands.
The estate has been in Gammapila’s family for three generations, since her grandfather bought it in 1947, before the end of British rule in Sri Lanka. But having spent the rst half of her career in the UK – working at PwC, and automotive digital services brand, Toyota Connected –Gammapila’s attention only turned to tea production on a family trip to Sri Lanka, when she and her husband Mike Bailey learned that the estate was likely to be sold.
This was due, she told FFD, to uctuations on the market, and the prevalence of so-called middle men in the supply chain – dating back to colonial times. Historically, tea was produced as a commodity, sold at auction to an in-country exporter and blended as a ‘regional’ (in this case, Ceylon) tea. It would then be sold to an importer for blending with Assam (for colour) Kenyan or Senegal (for avour) tea. A er that it might then pass through a wholesaler, then a brand,
Marsel Delight’s updated packaging not only tells customers that they are in fact purchasing Artisan Lokum – or Turkish Delight – but both the Hazelnut with Caramel and the Rose with Blackberry flavours have an updated colour scheme. The Pomegranate with Raspberry and Sumac now comes with a Great Taste 1-star sticker, from its success in the 2024 awards. Each box contains 9 pieces. Sold in cases of 6, unit price £2.65. RRP £4.90. marseldelights.com
and nally to a retailer before landing with the consumer. This obviously makes pro tability and paying employees di cult for the estate.
“I can bring that to life for you,” she said. “At auction, we get paid between £2 and £3 for one kilo of tea, a kilo, and you use roughly two grams maximum, between 1.5 and two grams per teabag”. Meanwhile a box of 20 teabags, weighing just 40g, sold in foodservice for £2.50 a cup – puts just a fraction of the money into the producer’s hands.
By turning it into a ‘farm-to-table’ operation, they have been able to give the team a 20% payrise, and make a pro t, without raising prices.
“That’s only possible because there’s just so much fat in the chain. But from our perspective, you know, who adds value? Well, it’s the end retailer, and it’s the person producing the tea.”
Plus, she argues, the tea is fresher, has traceability engrained and security of supply.
The producer is working with individual retailers, but is seeking wholesalers and individual retail partners aligned with its way of thinking.
devagiri-teas.com
1 Champagne gets replaced The spike in restaurants favouring English Sparkling Wine over European counterparts continues because it ticks both carbon footprint and quality boxes. Tom Sellers’ restaurant Dovetale uses an English
WHAT’S NEW
Cox & Co’s new hot chocolate spoons are made with single origin 60% cacao and come in three varieties: Miso & Caramel, Mint and Plain Chocolate. The packs of three spoons weigh 135g and have an RRP of £12. Trade price, £8.40. coxandcocacao.com
Isle of Man Salt Co is seeking new independent stockists after launching in the UK on the Delli app. The Manx company makes hand-harvested sea salt products – including Furikake Japanese Seasoning and Salted Caramel Sauce, both with an RRP of £7.50. Isleofmansaltco.com
Norton Barton Artisan Village has added Cornwall Pasta Co. products to its portfolio. The range of slow-dried, bronze cut, organic pasta uses Cornish ingredients like beetroot, saffron, Rondo wine and wild garlic. It has recently gained listings at Planet Organic and Booths. theartisanfoodvillage.com cornwallpasta.com
Sparkling as the main house pour, with Chapel Down favoured by Emily Roux at Caractère. Similarly, holder of many Michelin stars chef Simon Rogan has Exton Park Estate wines at L’Enclume. This all comes at a time when the renowned Tattinger family of France has just opened its second New World winery – in Kent.
2 Fundamentally nutritious
With increasing concerns surrounding Ultra Processed Foods, consumers are becoming more knowledgable about nutrition. This has already led to an influx of proteinand magnesium-laden FMCG products. Brands like Punchy drinks have moved to embrace ‘everyday hydration,’
with electrolytes and vitamins taking centre stage. Meanwhile, PepsiCo has just reformulated several of its products to make them HFSS compliant. It appears it’s no longer enough for something to be sourced well and taste great.
3 High-end convenience sauces
Food giant Nestlé says that 90% of consumers are turning to pre-made sauces or marinades for easy meals. It might sound like nothing new, but Food & Wine magazine also highlights this bridging of the gap between eating out and cooking from scratch. It’s telling that Indian condiment producer Geeta’s has recently introduced a range of pouches, while 2-Michelin star restaurant Gymkhana has its own range of sauces, too.
By Nick Baines
WHAT ARE THE NEW WINE TRENDS TO LOOK OUT FOR IN 2025?
Staying abreast of incoming wine trends will keep your offering credible and in line with ever changing customer expectations, says Neil McAndrew – wine industry consultant and advisor to the EU’s ‘More Than Only Food and Drink’ campaign.
The world of wine is evolving at a frantic pace and understanding changing shopper habits, as well as the latest trends is crucial to cra ing an engaging wine offering that will excite your customers. More than ever, customers are eager to learn and discover something new. It is a time to be bold and adventurous and to embrace the changing landscape with some upgrades to your wine offering in 2025.
Here are some key wine trends to consider:
Organic and biodynamic wines:
Consumers will continue to become increasingly aware of the environmental impact of their purchases. Organic, biodynamic and wines from sustainable vineyards are becoming the first choice for many wine drinkers.
The EU is leading the way in sustainable food and drink production and wine is no exception. The EU cultivates 90% of the grapes used in organic wine worldwide, with France, Italy and Spain at the forefront of organic winemaking. Offer your customers a choice of organic wines and educate yourself on how they are produced. Producers of Alto Adige / dell’Alto Adige / Südtirol / Südtiroler PDO wines from Italy and Alentejo PDO wines from Portugal are leading the way in innovative sustainable production.
Lower ABV wines:
Moderation is increasingly a key factor for many people and there is a greater tendency to socialise without alcohol or opt for no & low alcohol drinks alternatives. These changing habits are driving a surge of new wine related drinks with a leap in the quality and flavour profile available particularly regarding sparkling wines. Alcohol free sparkling wines made in France, Italy and Spain, are all improving in quality.
Interestingly this new demand has been recognised by some of the world’s leading wine producers and the prospect of famous producers in key regions such as Bordeaux in France, applying their expertise to this emerging category is particularly exciting.
Quality counts:
Increasingly there is section of consumers looking for quality above quantity driven partly by the moderation trend but also the effects of the squeeze on disposable income. This leads to a willingness to upgrade to premium or hard to find wines for special occasions. Customers are particularly seeking out strong, aspirational brand credentials including Côtes de Provence PDO Rosé wines, premium sparkling, as well as ‘cult’ wines.
Excite with emerging wine regions:
There is a growing willingness from the increasingly well-travelled UK consumer to be more adventurous and younger drinkers, in particular, are actively seeking out new and different wines. The future of wines from emerging countries such as Greece, Croatia, Bulgaria, Hungary, and Romania is bright as these countries continue to rediscover and refine their unique varietals, blending tradition with modern winemaking techniques to deliver wines of increasingly impressive quality.
Seek out innovation in winemaking
Whilst overall wine consumption continues to fall particularly at the entry level, there are some notable winners in terms of positive growth, not least Portugal. The combination of heritage, variety of styles, modern winemaking and above all value for money makes this vinous paradise a growing success story in the UK.
Classic wine regions like Rioja in Spain are also benefiting from new wave producers challenging the traditional approach and cra ing modern, fruit forward styles. Italy and the premium regions of Piedmont and Tuscany in particular will continue to attract new followers as will the unique Etna wines of Sicily. Last but not least, Burgundy in France, arguably the greatest wine region in the world, has, a er a run of small vintages, benefited from a generous 2022 & 2023 vintage crop which will enable these exceptional wines to once again become more widely available in the market.
For more information about the EU’s ‘More Than Only Food and Drink’ campaign visit https://enjoy-its-from-europe.campaign.europa.eu/united-kingdom/en
WHAT’S NEW
The Scottish Bee Company’s new chocolate spread was developed as an alternative to the mass-market ultraprocessed versions available. It is made with small batch blossom honey, Fairtrade chocolate, highwelfare milk and butter, and Scottish sea salt, giving it a ganache-like texture. RRP £8. scottishbeecompany.co.uk
Joe & Seph’s has partnered up with condiment stalwart Tracklements, using its famous Fresh Chilli Jam as the base to make a spicy caramel-coated popcorn. Available in 16 x 70g boxes with an RRP of £4. joeandsephs.co.uk tracklements.co.uk
My magic ingredient Drivers Bread & Butter Pickles
Drivers products are some of our best sellers, and we frequently need to reorder every other week to keep up with customer demand. The Bread & Butter pickles are my personal favourite as they offer a perfect balance of sweet and tangy flavours. They also make a fantastic pairing for sandwiches, burgers, or charcuterie boards.
I believe their name hails from the 1920s, when they became an affordable snack, served with simple “bread and butter” meals.
These pickles are made from thin slices of cucumbers, silver skin onions, and jalapeño peppers, all steeped in vinegar with a blend of sugar and spices.
Peat’D is offering a new cold-smoked range of sauces it says will add depth to any dish. Made by the same producer as Tongue in Peat – peat smoked tomato juice for Bloody Mary cocktails – the sauces come in four flavours: Original, Garlic, Chilli and Truffle. As well as with pasta, they can be used in soups and curries. Sold in cases of six, £3.92 per unit for the Truffle, and £3.27 for the rest. peatd.com
They are a staple in my kitchen. I always keep a jar in the fridge, using them frequently at lunchtime as an accompaniment to toasted cheese sandwiches or chopped up and tossed into a salad. I also love using the vinegar from the jar in dressings or to make mayonnaise, as it imparts a rich depth of flavour.
Whether enjoyed straight from the jar or tucked into a sandwich, they are a must-have.
Fieldfare adds chocolate orange brownies as part of new line-up
By Tanwen Dawn-Hiscox
Loose frozen food provider Fieldfare has added eight items to its autumn-winter range. Three sweets consist of a Chocolate Orange Brownie and a Bakewell Blondie (both with an RRP of £2.79), as well as a Belgian Chocolate Tartlet (RRP £3.79) which is a miniature of the producer’s vegan, nut and date-based Torte. In the savoury category which the producer calls ‘Meal Makers’, it has introduced a Beef, Horseradish & Cheese Roulade; a Sweet Potato & Goats’ Cheese Roulade and a Smoked Haddock Parcel, all with an RRP of £5.49; a Salmon & Prawn Parcel (RRP £5.99); and nally, a Rustic Roasted Vegetable Tart. (RRP £4.59).
don’t do so because of allergies, or because they follow a vegetarian or vegan diet, but because they don’t like the same food as the other people they’re eating with. Managing director Matt Whelan suggested that this was a ne spot for the Fieldfare proposition.
The news follows on a YouGov study conducted by the company earlier this year, which showed that while two-thirds of Britons prefer eating with others, 50% will alter their meals to suit their personal choice – and 45%
“It’s encouraging that around two-thirds of people do nd time to enjoy their main meal together but priorities and lifestyles continue to evolve and so will our mealtimes. A few years ago, we may have said that tweaking dishes to everyone’s taste or needs, or even having to prepare di erent dishes for the same dinner table would be very frustrating for whomever is doing the cooking.”
“However, the availability of better-quality prepared foods and increased popularity of loose or portioned foods, especially the rise of premium frozen foods, has made it easier to please everyone.”
field-fare.com
These Bread & Butter pickles o er a perfect balance of sweet and tangy avours
The latest in Hundred House Coffee’s Freak & Unique series is called ‘Lake, Mountains & Sky’. The coffee comes from award-winning Brazilian producer, Rafael Vinhal, and the cover artwork is by Manchester-based Fleur Yearsley. The coffee is triple fermented, and promises floral, parma violet and grape soda notes. Sales go towards the producer’s Arts + Industry program, supporting artists with a coworking space, workshops, exhibitions and commissioning, and working with partner schools. RRP £16.50. hundredhousecoffee.com
BENJAMIN CLARK, owner, The Pantry at Baythorne Hall
Continuously embracing change – including several shop moves – Armadeli in Stroud has ourished by staying true to its focus on quality and exemplary stock control.
By Tanwen Dawn-Hiscox
Rolling with the times
IN RETAIL, AS in life, there’s value in keeping things small. Bigger isn’t always better, and Armadeli is a case in point.
In 2018, ex-personal injury lawyer Armorel Willoughby opened the doors to her cheese-and-wine-focused deli in Stroud, a market town in Gloucestershire known for its strong community spirit and artisan food & drink scene.
In this context, Willoughby’s shop was the perfect t. She came prepared for the challenge: when she le her career in law, she had taken a cheese course and then worked at Whole Foods Market in Cheltenham to make sure she was on the right track.
When Whole Foods Market closed,
VITAL STATISTICS
Location: Unit 6B, Five Valleys Indoor Market, Five Valleys Shopping Centre, King St, Stroud GL5 1R
Average Basket Spend: £11
Average Margin: 45%
Annual Turnover: £150,000
Floor Space: 204 sq ft
No. of Staff: 1
she brie y worked at Gloucester Services, but soon found a converted pub near the farmers’ market in Stroud to open her own deli. Armadeli quickly carved out a niche, specialising in cheese and wine, but o ering an array of charcuterie, antipasti, olives, sweet treats, and store cupboard essentials – all selected for their quality, sustainability, and ethical sourcing. And it wasn’t just retail; it also included a foodservice element.
“It was lovely,” Willoughby tells FFD. “I had a co ee machine, we did cheese and wine tastings in the evenings because my licensing allowed me to open later.”
However, when coronavirus hit, she had to close, and a er reopening, the high street
had changed, and footfall took a hit. “The Government gave us grants to deal with the situation, but getting anyone through the door was tough.”
Around this time, Willoughby was approached by the rm redeveloping Five Valleys Market in the centre of town. Envisioning a Borough Market-inspired hub, it o ered her a place there.
She hesitated. She liked her shop where it was. “But, I thought, there’s a potential that if I don’t move down, then someone else will open a cheese shop here. I didn’t want the competition.” In the end, the switch ultimately proved that moving to a small site could be a smart business decision.
Part of the appeal is that in the market, Armadeli has many neighbours. These include a bakery, a butcher and greengrocer that also acts as a shmonger on certain days. There are gi shops, a small department store, and street food outlets, too. The merchants abide by a ‘noncompetition’ understanding, and support each other in a spirit of cooperation.
“We don’t sell each other’s products,” says Willoughby. “My butcher and I will have conversations about what we’re o ering. A few months ago, he said, ‘oh, I’ve got some ham that I’m cooking up and I want to slice and sell. Is that okay with you?’ I said, ‘yeah, that’s ne.’ He doesn’t do it all the time, but we make sure we do it by mutual agreement.”
These types of arrangements extend to cross-selling, too. Back when Willoughby sold more wine, “I could put some on his counter for people to match with the meat, and he would point customers to come and pay for it here”.
As Stroud is surrounded by dozens of smaller towns and villages, the covered market is a central point for customers to visit Thursday through Saturday, to stock up for the weekend.
“Saturday is huge in Stroud because we have a farmer’s market at the top end of town and people will drive in for that, and then they’ll come down here.”
Her location in Five Valleys also allows Willoughby to introduce her products to a wider demographic than a traditional shop might. “Being here in a market, everybody walks through.
“And because it’s open, people feel comfortable browsing and then gradually are introduced to products that they perhaps wouldn’t have thought about trying before.”
Despite a very positive start, Willoughby quickly realised that things hadn’t gone exactly as expected. She originally took up two units, with space for customers to sit and enjoy charcuterie boards and cheese
plates, similar to what she’d o ered at the original shop. However, while in 2020 and 2021, business bene tted from the savings people had made during the pandemic, the cost-of-living crisis then took hold, ultimately leading her to downsize to a single unit.
“There was a real ‘Covid’ bubble,” she says. “For me, that coincided with moving down here, and that’s why I thought I was getting the increased cash ow. But then everything just changed again, really rapidly. People weren’t spending on luxury items anymore.”
Though initially disappointing, the decision to downsize turned out to be the right call, and the small space a blessing in disguise. It has allowed her to re ne her focus, keeping only premium products that make sense for her ‘luxury gi ing’ niche, and to reap the bene ts of a more streamlined operation. And indeed, “business has kept climbing back up,” she says.
Willoughby now has just one employee aside from herself (versus four before), who covers the days she can’t be in the shop. She has also adjusted her concept to t the current market demands. For instance, while wine was part of her original vision for the shop, it is mostly out of the picture, and Armadeli now predominantly stocks cra beers.
“I’ve got some wine coming in for Christmas, but now I’m known for getting seasonal beer. I’ve been doing it for a good few years now, so I have customers coming in speci cally, asking when it’s coming in.”
And while originally reluctant to sell Scotch eggs and sausage rolls, this recent addition has helped draw in passers-by.
“It just wasn’t ever really in my vision of what my shop was going to be,” she says. “Some people have delis that are what I call ‘farmhouse delis’. And that’s not me, I always wanted mine to be a speciality deli.
MUST-STOCKS
Gordal Olives – Perello
Gluten Free Pasta – Seggiano
Anchovies – Ortiz
Gherkin Crisps – Torres
Sourdough Crispbread – Peter’s Yard
Chilli Jam – Hawkshead Relish
Walnut & Honey Crackers – Fine Cheese Company
Montagnolo Affiné – Käserei Champignon
Black Bomber – Snowdonia Cheese Co
Baron Bigod – Fen Farm Dairy
DELI OF THE MONTH
And I think about that when I make buying decisions.”
But the premium sausage rolls are in fact great for sales. “They’re an easy thing for people to grab at lunchtime”, and provide an ice-breaker to make customers feel comfortable in the shop.
“Some people have this idea that they can’t a ord to shop here. But once they buy a sausage roll, even if they’re just moving to the till to pay, they’ll then look around and think, ‘I’ll just have a look at that,’ and probably pick something else up.”
While cheese remains the shop’s main focus, Willoughby has a set of criteria to select which products to stock in the small space: they have to be premium, aesthetically appealing, and not readily available in supermarkets. “If something I stock goes into the supermarket, I tend to delist it. There are exceptions of course, but I want people to say, ‘oh, I can’t really nd this anywhere else. This is special.’”
Secondly, stock rotations must be e cient – so products with low margins must move quickly.
Tired of watching the price of olive oil shoot up, with bottles gathering dust while shoppers bought theirs in the multiples, they came o the shelves. “If it’s not shi ing, it’s going. If it’s got a low margin, you want it to turn over quickly. You have to have a high turnover for low-margin items.”
Willoughby has a disciplined approach to managing stock. She uses an expiry date
diary and moves harder-to-shi stock to eye level, as well as running promotions and regular samplings. With accounts, she does quarterly and monthly reviews. “I try and keep track of things so you can make changes quickly. If you don’t do that, you’re in a whole mess.”
Maintaining strong relationships with wholesalers – which include Brindisa, Seggiano, Fine Cheese Co., Rowcli e and Cornish Charcuterie – is also a key part of Willoughby’s strategy. “I really like to build a relationship with my account manager, that they get to know my shop, my business, and my customers. That seems to work really well because they’ll come in and say, ‘This has just come in, have you considered this?’ They want you to make sales, it’s in their interest and mine.”
To keep the business visible during leaner times, Willoughby started attending markets in neighbouring villages. “It wasn’t in my original plan,” she says, but it became another example of how being small can mean being closer to the community. These events, which cost little to attend, allow her to connect with customers while subtly marketing her shop. “People like knowing the person who owns the business,” she says.
“A lot of the customers who come know I’ve got a shop here, but they’ll happily buy on Thursday and then come into the shop at the weekend. It is marketing, really,” she says, as well as an opportunity to meet more local business owners. “Things are going well in the
shop now, so I sometimes wonder whether I still need to do it, but it is a really good thing for marketing – and I’m really happy doing it.”
When FFD visits Armadeli, Christmas decorations are up, boxes of cheese and crackers are piled high in and above the fridges. Willoughby is feeling festive and optimistic. She is basing her orders on last year’s sales data but isn’t relying on a massive increase. “I’ve looked back at my sales for last year for each supplier. And I’ve literally gone, ‘right, what did I sell in November and December last year?’.”
She adds: “I’m hopeful people will just throw caution to the wind and go for it.”
The Autumn Budget le her cautiously positive, at least when it comes to a slightly remote future: yes, some measures could impact businesses and the economy, and more tough times could lie ahead – but, she takes a stoic perspective on how things have gone so far. She has weathered a pandemic, a move, a downsizing, and built a successful business out of it all.
“It has been a tough few years, but I am actually in a really good position,” she says. “I’ve been thrown straight into a storm and actually come out swimming the other side. I’m still here, and actually growing and feeling con dent.”
Willoughby’s experience does prove that success isn’t about size, but rather about making every square foot, and every decision, count.
armadeli.co.uk
If it’s not shi ing, it’s going. If it’s got a low margin, you want it to turn over quickly.
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FOOD
MARKETING EXPERTS ON THE IMPORTANCE OF NETWORKING INTELLIGENTLY
Networking is a vital element of successful business, o ering opportunities to forge connections that help your business ourish. However, networking intelligently goes beyond collecting business cards or adding names to a contact list—it’s about fostering meaningful, mutually bene cial relationships. Focus on quality interactions, actively listen and nd common interests. Building trust starts with being yourself, showing a sincere interest in others, and o ering support or insights where possible. Be authentic, o er help, and follow up to nurture connections over time.
Social media and professional platforms like LinkedIn are powerful tools for
Be authentic, o er help, and follow up to nurture connections
MODEL RETAILING
expanding your network. Engage thoughtfully with industry-related content, participate in discussions, and connect with peers whose interests align with yours.
Following up e ectively is a crucial part of nurturing new connections. Start with a personalised message referencing your previous interaction. Be timely – follow up within a few days to keep the connection fresh. O er value in your follow-up, such as sharing a relevant article, introducing them to someone in your network, or o ering assistance. Finally, suggest a speci c next step, like scheduling a meeting or call, to
continue the conversation.
Here are my top 5 tips for networking:
• Be authentic and show genuine interest in others.
• Listen actively and focus on the speaker rather than planning your response. I write notes on my phone about the people I have met and their interests, so I remember them.
• O er value and share insights, resources, or connections that can help others. Giving and sharing are vital elements of doing business.
• Build relationships over time follow up and stay in touch regularly.
• Use social media strategically engage with industry content and connect with peers.
thefoodmarketingexperts.co.uk
Honestly, not great. And you can thank the Government for that. With these employer NI contributions going up, I can barely afford to keep the staff on. Tell you what, I wouldn’t come on Saturdays anymore because all the temps are going to have to go…
… and that’s if we can even afford to keep the lights on and the building open. Did you know that my business rate relief has dropped significantly? And it’s not like anything’s getting any cheaper generally, so…
Setting up shop for good hygiene
Destroying bio hazards via water activity reduction
Water activity, also known as available water (AW) is a measure of the proportion of water within a food that is available for bacteria to use.
Reducing water activity can signi cantly impact bacteria’s ability to survive
It is not bound to food molecules and shouldn’t be confused with the term “moisture content” which is a measure of the total water present.
Reducing water activity can significantly impact the ability of bacteria to survive. Reduction techniques can include air-drying and adding salt or sugar.
For non-heat-treated foods (ie fermented sausages), to control food safety by water activity alone, a target AW of 0.85 or lower must be achieved.
Fine Food’s Assured Code of Practice for Deli Retailing The guide is available in PDF format (free for Guild Members, £250+VAT for non-members). To request a copy of the Code,
This advice is an excerpt from the Guild of Fine Food’s Assured Code of Practice for Deli Retailing. The guide is available in PDF format (free for Guild Members, £250+VAT for nonmembers). To request a copy of the Code, email support@gff.co.uk
… prices are going to have to up and service will probably have to go down just to keep us in business. All I can say is, don’t expect a free cup of mulled wine when you’re queuing at Christmas.
FFD says: There was very little cheer for independent retail in the recently announced Budget and shop owners are totally within their rights to express their dismay – but that kind of thing is probably better kept on the pages of FFD rather than the shopfloor. Customers will of course have some sympathy but they come to your shop for a treat, not to be reminded of the economic doom in the UK right now.
