Liquid gold
Introducing the Great Taste Supreme Champion honey from Crete
CONTENTS
editorial@gff.co.uk
Editor: Michael Lane
Deputy editor:
Tanwen Dawn-Hiscox
Art director: Mark Windsor
Contributors: Joseph Ackerman, Nick Baines, Patrick McGuigan, Greg Pitcher, Lynda Searby
Cover photo: Richard Faulks
opportunities@gff.co.uk
Sales director: Sally Coley
Senior sales account manager: Becky Haskett
Some wrinkly French goats’ cheeses made me hurriedly text a colleague with those “head exploding” emojis.
By Michael Lane, editor
I don’t know for certain who coined the well-worn phrase, “the best things in life are free”.
But whether it was Coco Chanel, Motown Records founder Berry Gordy or someone’s nan down the pub (yes, at least two of these came up on a Google search), I bet none of them were talking about food & drink samples. And if they were, there would be a second part of the quote: “…and so are the worst.”
There have been quite a lot of events during the production cycle of this magazine, so I’ve had the full gamut of sampling experiences recently.
Let’s start o with the “best”. At the Great Taste Golden Forks evening (read more on page 26), I tried beautiful chorizo from Wales, perfect Jamon Iberico and a Greek honey that was like ethereal caramel.
In the same week, I wandered the aisles of Speciality & Fine
Accounts assistant: Julie Coates
Finance director: Ashley Warden
support@gff.co.uk
Managing director: John Farrand
Special projects director: Tortie Farrand
Food Fair. There was exceptional Belgian chocolate, Devon-made pastrami that could’ve been from a New York deli, and some wrinkly French goats’ cheeses that made me hurriedly text a colleague with those “head exploding” emojis. I even experienced ( nally!) some very decent so drinks NPD, including a decent wine alternative.
Still on a high from my very privileged gluttony, I bumped into an old friend on the train home from London. His swi half at the station had le him hungry so we started to dig around in a tote bag of randomly curated samples I had been handed during the show. It could’ve been the post-show exhaustion kicking in, but one of the items we tried was so repellent it had me crying with laughter. There was plenty of more mediocre stu in there too but, undeterred, we tried all of it by the time I got to my station. And it was fun.
EDITOR’S CHOICE
Tanwen Dawn-Hiscox, deputy editor
Bold Bean Co.
Smoky Chilli Baked Beans
Operations & marketing director: Christabel Cairns
Chairman: Bob Farrand
Alternative versions of things don’t always need to exist. Call me sniffy but I’m not sure the world wanted carbonara in a can. Bold Bean Co.’s Baked Beans, on the other hand, are marvellous. There’s a time and a place for fry-up beans, but these on a thick, crispy slice of toast with a bed of butter and a quilt of cheese? Yes please. More on p. 51
Every now and again, it’s good to have a re-epiphany about the world we work in. Trying food and sharing it with other people – whatever end of the quality spectrum you nd yourself – is a joyous and rewarding thing.
Given what’s worryingly on the horizon (lots of discussion in this issue about the new Government’s employment and pay reforms, for instance), I feel like we could all do with stopping and acknowledging the ful lment that our corner of the food world o ers – to its suppliers, retailers and customers.
By coincidence, the retailers in this issue’s key interview spots (pages 9 and 52) are prime examples of this.
Even if running your business is tough at the moment, try to remind yourself why you got into it in the rst place.
Clichés, whoever came up with them, can be a good thing, sometimes.
Marketing officer: Jenna Morice
PR & partnerships officer: Claire Fry
Data strategy & insight manager: Lindsay Farrar
Operations manager: Claire Powell
Operations coordinators: Chris Farrand, Sepi Rowshanaei
Operations & events coordinator: Zara Williams
Customer services assistant: Chloë Warren-Wood
Published by The Guild of Fine Food Ltd Fine Food Digest is published 11 times a year and is available on subscription for £50 p.a. inc P&P.
© The Guild of Fine Food Ltd 2024. Reproduction of whole or part of this magazine without the publisher’s prior permission is prohibited. The opinions expressed in articles and advertisements are not necessarily those of the editor or publisher.
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IN BRIEF
Scottish deli of five years, Bunty’s Two Doors Down, closed for good last month. The Renfrewshire retailer said that despite having a loyal customer base, it was unable to continue covering wages, supplier costs and rent.
The owners of Gilhams in Shropshire are hoping to double the size of their deli after buying the empty shop next door and submitting plans to knock the adjoining wall through.
Construction has begun on a £3 million farm shop at the Norfolk Showground, which developers hope will bring a new audience to the open parkland in East Anglia.
The Norfolk Food Hall will have butchery and deli counters, a 140seat restaurant and an outdoor seating area.
Delays to new fresh produce border checks could be a boost for retailers
By Greg Pitcher
Ministers have handed suppliers and retailers of fresh produce a major boost by delaying the introduction of another wave of postBrexit border rules.
The Government announced in September that physical checks on ‘medium-risk’ fruit and vegetables imported from the EU would not come in until 1st July 2025.
This gives the industry an extra six months before these dreaded procedures kick in, providing a major boost over the winter when domestic produce is less bountiful.
Jack Ward, chief executive of the British Growers Association, said the delay to the checks gave suppliers relief from a looming “nightmare”.
Many British fruit and vegetable producers have deals to provide retailers with certain lines 12 months a year, he said, necessitating a winter solution.
“They o en grow in Spain or have joint ventures with Spanish growers so they supply for six months from there.
“With the extra checks, there was the prospect of container-loads of stu being holed up while they found someone to carry them out. This [delay] has put o a series of problems the fresh produce industry thought it would have to contend with.”
Ministers said the “easement” on checks was a temporary measure to give them “a full and thorough opportunity to review the
SFFF Awards announces 2024 winners
Indie retailers and fine food producers were celebrated for contributing to the improvement of the food & drink sector at the 4th iteration of the Speciality & Fine Food Fair Awards last month.
The Matcha Yaad’s sparkling Matcha Ginger Refresher, founder Monique Farquasson’s flagship drink, won the ‘New Product of the Year’ award for the UK, while the Flynn twins at The Happy Pear took that title in the International category for their Dip & Snack Red Pepper Hummus.
The ‘Not on the Shelf Yet’ award went to Rare & Pasture’s Smoked Beef Pastrami. Retailers at The Cheese Lady and Low Sizergh Barn were
crowned Small and Large Retailer of the Year, respectively. Commended for ‘Best Diversity, Equity and Inclusion (DEI)’ initiative was Nemi Teas Ltd for its work employing and training refugees, helping them settle and giving them skills to integrate.
Finally, Vhari Russell of The Food Marketing Experts and founder of tree-planting organisation, Creating Nature’s Corridors, was celebrated for her ‘Outstanding Contribution to the Industry’. specialityand finefoodfairs.co.uk
planned implementation of further border controls”.
They added that they would be looking to “listen to businesses across import supply chains”.
Meanwhile the Government changed the categorisation of certain produce meaning items including apples and pears will move from medium to low risk on 30 January 2025, allowing them to move freely into Britain from the EU.
David Josephs, owner of Panzer’s Deli in North London, welcomed the delay to “needless further
regulations”. He added that the recategorising of certain lines was “long overdue”.
“Hopefully there will be a further review to evaluate more items being deregulated, beyond just fruit and vegetables,” said Josephs.
“The new Government needs to apply some common sense to the barriers to trade that Brexit has in icted.”
Samantha Green, shop manager at Groombridge Farm Shop, said the Kent retailer sourced its fruit and vegetables from London markets that o en brought in goods from overseas.
“We try to support local growers and our own farm but out of season we have to buy imported produce,” she said. “Peppers are currently coming from Belgium, as are kiwis. Broccoli recently doubled in price recently, we had to get it from abroad.
“Anything that keeps imported produce cheaper is positive for us and our customers.
FRA unveils new look and mission statement
In what it has called its biggest brand overhaul in its 45-year history, the Farm Retail Association revealed a new logo and website last month.
At an event hosting its members and attended by the association’s patron, Hugh FearnleyWhittingstall, the FRA renewed its commitment to support British farmers, farm shops and farmers’ markets, and its ambition to improve access to local food across the UK. Currently, it has around 325 members, but has made a mission of
uniting the 1000+ farm shops and farmers’ markets across the UK.
Commenting on the rebrand, FRA Chair and owner of Minskip Farm Shop in Yorkshire, Emma Mosey said: “The UK’s food system is at a crossroads. We believe that the future of food lies in supporting local farmers and independent retailers. With our rebrand, the Farm Retail Association is committed to leading a food revolution that puts real, local food at the heart of our diets and communities.” farmretail.co.uk
Indies concerned that Make Work Pay plans will create yet another cost burden
By Greg Pitcher
Fine food retailers have warned the Government it risks a wave of business closures and job losses if it persists with its agship employment reforms.
Key gures said many small shops would struggle to adapt to the higher costs inherent in Labour’s much-heralded Make Work Pay proposals.
The Government, led by Keir Starmer, has been touting the reforms (see box) since it came to power, and held meetings with business leaders in August and September.
Tom Homfray, managing partner at Forage Farm Shop & Kitchen in the Vale of Glamorgan, said the proposed rules would “make life very di cult” for small food retailers.
“Margins are razor ne, and most places feel they are already at the limit in terms of passing rising
costs on to the consumer,” he added.
“What incentive will there be for people to risk it all and invest in starting a small business if all power transfers to the employees?
Without wealth creators, particularly those who operate in rural areas, there will be an unemployment bloodbath.”
Sangita Tryner, managing director at Nottingham’s Delilah Fine Foods, said many business
Future of Food competition to crown big idea in November
The final of the inaugural Future of Food competition is set to take place on 26th November in London, giving entrepreneurs the opportunity to pitch ideas for a project beneficial to the food system – and the chance to win £10,000 towards making it happen.
The idea must address a particular issue for the industry – such as how to feed a an ageing population; agriculture in the context of climate change; or disruptions caused by AI – and it could be anything from an ingredient or a type of packaging to software or an app.
The first event of its
kind, the competition is led by Barney Mauleverer, founder of Fuel10k, a brand of ‘nutritionally complete’ instant meals. Members of the trade can find out more about the competition and register to attend the final at the Royal Geographical Society on the Future of Food website.
futureoffood.org.uk
owners were already looking to exit the sector in the wake of constant cost hikes.
“The more people I talk to, the more want to get out of this industry,” she said. “We are not in it to make tonnes of money but to do something we really enjoy and keep people in employment. Certain things on the [Make Work Pay] agenda make it hard to keep going.”
Tryner said the Government reforms
could change the face of independent retailing, forcing small shops to cut jobs and replace customer service with automated tills.
“If employment costs keep rising we will see more ne food retailers closing,” she added.
Rob Copley, owner at Farmer Copleys, said the lower wage for under 21s allowed the Yorkshire attraction and farm shop to invest in training industry newcomers.
“You get them in to learn rather than earn at that age,” he said. “We tell them to sweep a oor and they don’t know how to. Occasionally you get someone who is really good and you want to pay them more.”
But he added: “I like the minimum wage. As long as we all pay the same, I am happy. I want work to pay but the only way you can be competitive is paying the minimum level.”
What are the Government’s Make Work Pay plans?
Ministers have committed to:
• Ban "exploitative" zero-hours contracts
• End the practice of fire-and-rehire
• Introduce rights to parental leave, sick pay and unfair-dismissal protection from day one
• Ensure the minimum wage accounts for the cost of living
• Remove age bands so all adults are entitled to the same minimum pay
• Create a Single Enforcement Body to ensure employment rights are upheld
WHAT THEY ARE SAYING ABOUT...
...LABOUR’S EMPLOYMENT REFORMS
“You don’t employ lightly these days anyway but extending certain rights to day one will add to the importance of employing the right person. Some people interview well but they’re not so good in practice. On wages, ultimately the consumer always pays. Everyone has to put their wages up and everyone’s prices go up.”
“If they create a blanket wage regardless of age then younger guys will find it harder to get work. At the moment, they start on a wage fit for their age and, if they are good, quickly move onto the same pay as anyone else. Why would you train someone from scratch on the same money as someone with five years in the industry?”
“Banning energy drinks for under 16s and junk food advertising won’t necessarily come as a surprise. The separate offence for attacking shopworkers, as well as vape and tobacco restrictions, are both things that were on their way through parliament too. A lot of the uncertainty will come around the plan for more devolution to local authorities.”
Harvey & Brockless to pursue growth plans following acquisition by Compleat
By Tanwen Dawn-Hiscox
Private equity-backed fresh food manufacturer The Compleat Food Group has acquired Harvey & Brockless, with a view to growing its customer base across retail and foodservice.
FFD understands that the deal won’t affect how the distributor, which specialises in cheese, charcuterie and deli items, deals with its independent retail customers. It will continue to employ its 500 staff, overseen by the current management team.
The Compleat Food Group was created in 2021 aiming to become the UK’s biggest chilled prepared food company. It offers a selection of pastry products, deli and plant-based items via its portfolio of food brands, which include classic pork pie maker Pork Farms; sausage roll, pie and pasty brand, Walls
Cost
of olive oil nally set to fall
Olive oil prices are set to decrease at the beginning of next year, as major producers in Spain, Portugal, Greece, Turkey and Tunisia are forecasting a bumper harvest.
According to olive oil brand Filipo Berrio, total production for 2024-2025 is expected to be 3.13 million tonnes, up from 2.28 million in 2023-2024.
The only country where supply is expected to decrease is Italy – by a third.
New season EVOO should sell for between €5,000 and €6,000 a tonne, down from a record high of €9,000 a tonne in early 2024.
Suppliers are still facing prices around 20% higher than last year.
Pastry; savoury products, cake and confectionary company, Wrights Food Group; Mediterranean deli foods brand, Unearthed; pickles and ferments maker Vadasz; plant-based meat alternative producer Squeaky Bean and vegan cheese company, Palace Culture.
The acquisition marks Compleat’s third this year, after buying private label suppliers SK Foods and Zorba Foods. It expects the
latest addition to edge its annual turnover past the £1 billion mark.
53 year-old Harvey & Brockless’ portfolio includes the UK’s largest collection of British farmhouse cheeses (as well as Continentals); British and continental charcuterie; own brand sauces, dips, accompaniments and store cupboard ingredients. It now supplies both the independent retail sector and high-end foodservice
DOWN ON THE FARM
The latest from farm shops across the country
A cake shop on Winchester High Street which closed its doors at the beginning of the year may be getting a new lease of life after filing for planning permission to turn it into a farm shop. The owners of Westlands Farm Shop in the Meon Valley are looking to open a second store with an in-house butchery. If things go to plan, they are looking to open in time for Christmas. westlandsfarmshop. co.uk
Having run their plant nursery in Wilmslow for 12 years, Elaine and Graham Prescott have extended their offering by opening
an adjacent farm shop. It celebrates all things local with produce, flowers, cakes and ice cream from Cheshire producers. www.facebook.com/ Morleynurserieswilmslow
outlets such as The Ritz, The Savoy, Harrods, The Dorchester, as well as fivestar hotels and airlines in the UAE.
The Compleat Food Group CEO Nick Field said he was “delighted” to welcome Harvey & Brockless to the group, praising its long heritage of sourcing the best speciality food from around the world ”which aligns perfectly with our mission of creating great quality food that people love to eat”.
Meanwhile, Harvey & Brockless managing director, Nick Martin, said that “in The Compleat Food Group we have found a partner who shares our passion for great food and will help us to grow and fulfil our future ambitions. I and the rest of the leadership team are looking forward to working with The Compleat Food Group as we continue on the next stage of Harvey & Brockless’ journey.”
The new sign went up outside Willow Grange Farm just off the A10 in Chittering in July, when the café opened. The farm shop has taken slightly longer to get ready but will be opening its doors this month [October]. It will sell beef from the farm’s grass-fed Hereford cows as well as local produce and baked goods. It also has a deli counter. willowgrangefarm.co.uk
IN BRIEF
Following on the success of product partnerships with Ottolenghi, Wildfarmed and Zoe, Waitrose has introduced a branded innovation platform called BrandsNew at Waitrose, which will support producers in their NPD process.
As part of plans to improve recycling rates and generate biofuels from food waste, as of March 2025, most businesses will be required to separate food waste from other streams, and to arrange its collection.
Former government advisor Henry Dimbleby has launched a consultancy firm, Bramble Intelligence, to advise organisations looking to make health and sustainability central to their strategies.
The family who sold their house to buy the Delf Farm Shop in Sandwich three years ago have submitted plans to Dover District Council to tear down the dilapidated building, redesign the shop and add a café. They will continue selling local, fresh produce, plants and Christmas trees from the existing premises until the decision comes through. delffarmshop.co.uk
GUIDE TO GRATE BRITAIN ( S )
WILLIAM SHAKESPEARE
Will coined more than 1700 words. Just like our Miller’s Grate Britain Cheddar Crackers, “Some are born Grate” (only Twelfth Night).
ROBERT BURNS
Robbie’s poetry is so out of this world that it made its way into space. Our Miller’s Grate Britain Blue Stilton Crackers are so heavenly they will have you orbiting this “bonie blue” nibble.
Tom’s vocal range is so revered that he is known as ‘The Voice’. “It’s not unusual” for there to be complete silence once our Miller’s Grate Britain Smoked Dorset Red Crackers hit your lips.
The range that puts the ‘Grate’ into Grate Britain, and real freshly grated or crumbled British cheese into every batch.
Bridget’s work challenges how we view art. But our Miller’s Grate Britain Gluten-Free Cheddar Crackers are packed with just as much avour as the original Cheddar that it’s hard to tell them Op Art.
IF I’D KNOWN THEN WHAT I KNOW NOW...
NICKY READER, owner, East Street Deli, Faversham, Kent
For 14 years, I had a fulfilling career baking wedding and celebration cakes for delis, farm shops and food stores in London. When my husband Tom and I moved to Faversham in 2016, I tried to continue with this but it didn’t work. The town lost its deli during the pandemic, and we were left with supermarkets as our only food shopping option. I felt there was a gap in the market to provide the interactive shopping experience people were craving.
I sounded out all my contacts – I know a lot of people in the trade from my cake baking days and have a friend who owns a wine bar. They gave me good advice about various aspects of opening a deli, including negotiating breaks into my 10-year lease to give me exit opportunities.
The concept I was aiming for was inspired by Ultracomida, a Spanish deli in Wales. I wanted to create a relaxed retail space where people could buy a decent coffee and sandwich, a nice bottle of olive oil and some good cheese.
After an extensive refurb, we opened in October 2023. It was a baptism by fire. I tried to order Christmas supplies but there was no availability. That taught me that I need to start thinking about Christmas in July and I have been super organised this year.
Everyone warned me that I wouldn’t make any money for at least a year, so I am pleased with the fact we are breaking even and gaining customers by the week.
My baking background has really helped here as I make a lot of what we sell, and the margins are higher on these lines. I bake everything from almond croissants and cheese scones to quiches, brownies and lemon drizzle – and have five or six cakes on the counter at all times. Coffee is also a good profit booster. The coffee machine was probably our biggest expense – most of our other equipment I bought secondhand.
There are still some areas we haven’t really exploited. For example, originally we didn’t think we wanted an alcohol licence but have since realised that we are missing an opportunity and have obtained a licence for off-sales. We also have plans to move into outside catering, offering charcuterie and cheese boards. Another area where we could be doing more is customer engagement. I would like to build a database and use it to connect with our customers and enhance their experience.
I work six days in the shop and spend my evenings baking. I’m spinning a lot of plates and sometimes I drop one (usually admin), but being a deli owner is still the most enjoyable job I have ever had.
Interview Lynda Searby
View from HQ
FFD’s publisher and Guild of Fine Food managing director John Farrand has his say
I MUST CONFESS that my mind wandered sitting through our son’s two-and-a-half-hour graduation ceremony the other day. Understandable really, because you politely applaud over 300 students when you’re only invested in one – and the apposite academic handshake lasts only 20 seconds. I’m proud of our boy, though, who has graduated in Rural Land Management from the Royal Agricultural University.
Where did my day dreaming take me? What next for Guy, our son? Why do graduates have to hire a mortar board and gown at vast expense for one day? You have time at moments like this, so
MARK YOUR DIARIES
Entry to Great Taste 2025 will open earlier than usual this year with ‘Member December’ running from 9th December to 9th January, followed by general entry (6th-21st January). Applications for the Bursary are open 9th December-5th January. gff.co.uk/greattaste
NEW: MEMBER WEBINARS
A webinar series begins this autumn – especially for Guild of Fine Food members. Run in partnership with the Seed Academy, the programme is designed to support businesses improve and grow. Register to join today: gff.co.uk/member-webinars Non members can join the Guild here: gff.co.uk/join
I started to internally interrogate the juxtaposition of the pomp on the day (complete with orchestral entrance of the dignitaries as they trooped on stage) in contrast to the academic rigour of Guy’s course.
I was jolted back to consciousness by genuinely unpleasant stomach cramps. Without dwelling on the detail, we had been struck down by some oysters while on holiday in Cornwall the week before.
Sourced very locally by our fellow guest (demonstrated by the fact that payment was made via an honesty box), the shell sh had knocked our entire party out for 48 hours – with the a ere ects still being felt three weeks later at the time of writing. Evil.
My cramps subsided as the ceremony progressed from undergrads to the postgrads and then the Honorary Fellowships. One to the eminent Welsh farmer, Abi Reader, who has done ne work in highlighting the plight of marginal farming in her country and the challenges of being female
in agriculture. The next was Henry Dimbleby, celebrated because of his work with food, schools and nutrition, and because he is an important ea in the ear of policymakers.
My eyes dri ed down to the programme of events. There was a biog for one of the ladies handing out these honours, and my stomach turned again. Among the long list of academic and industry appointments was the fact that she was a non-exec director of a water company. Now, I don’t know the work of this person, or her agenda when it comes to the environment,
I was jolted back to consciousness by genuinely unpleasant stomach cramps.
farming and food. But I do know that the norovirus we consumed when enjoying our oysters was due to the horri c state of our rivers, seas and coastline.
As we found out from many locals later in our week’s holiday, there’s an issue with UK shell sh, or certainly those from the South West. Over-crowded holiday homes during the summer, combined with rising sea temperatures and a decrepit, under-invested water and waste system leads to a dangerous home for our sea harvest.
Having heard from a farmer invested in her environment and an entrepreneur who wrote a 500-page National Food Strategy, addressing (the lack of) education and safeguarding food security for all, I did wonder how the postceremony banter was on stage as a certain dignitary explained away my poisoning, the state of our waters and the size of utility company directors’ bonuses.
If only a real champion of the waterways, like Feargal Sharkey, had received a gong too.
The Word on Westminster
By Edward Woodall Association of Convenience Stores
I’VE JUST RETURNED from the Labour Party Conference, their first in Government in 14 years. There were many celebrations at the conference, but it was also subdued as a result of negative headlines in the run-up and the new pressures of being in Government.
The conference was a great chance to meet with all the new keen MPs and to talk to them about the issues that matter to local shops. What cut through the most with them was the challenge of shop theft, violence and abuse. We are really pleased that the message is getting through and are hopeful of a positive result when the Crime & Justice Bill is introduced in the coming months.
Further conversations about policy, both directly with MPs and at the many fringe events, were
somewhat more muted.
Why? I think there are two reasons. Firstly, the Government is still getting its feet under the table. For incoming ministers, there are all the issues left on the statute book from the last Government, plus Labour’s new manifesto commitments.
Secondly, there is a Budget on the horizon, so even if you are a minister delivering on one of the Government’s core missions, you still need to see how much money your department is going to get. To that end, it was a conference more about tone than substance.
We are clear about what we need to see in the upcoming Budget: a focus on delivering growth. This requires the Government to balance ambitious plans to reform labour market regulations and deliver a revolution in public health intervention without damaging business confidence. We are clear that most fine food retailers and
local shops are already delivering local, secure and flexible jobs, but they really need support in managing employment costs. So, while we all want to deliver a “genuine living wage”, we need some support on the journey.
We suggest that the Chancellor looks at increasing employer National Insurance contribution thresholds to reduce employers’ tax bills and retain the important small business and retail relief that facilitates investment on high streets across the country.
The Budget on 30th October will mark the real start of this new administration’s programme for government. I hope it leads to more substantial policy conversations with the industries that will be implementing them and delivering the growth the country needs.
CONFESSIONS OF A DELI OWNER
ANONYMOUS TALES FROM BEHIND THE COUNTER
AUTUMN IS AN ominous time in shop life. The hectic summer has passed. The shi to a new colder season and the return to school means that customers are not yet in their usual routines. This results in empty aisles and an eerie quiet. It’s unsettling and feels concerning. In our rst few years, I would over-analyse and wonder if we were doing something wrong, but I’ve learnt that it’s just the lull before the storm of Christmas. I try to use the time productively and not succumb to irrational fears that our customers have deserted us.
Behind the scenes, it’s a strangely busy time. Christmas is breathing down our necks: brochures or order forms must be designed, printed and promoted. Stock begins to arrive and must be displayed to get customers in a festive mood. Should we order to ee apples for Bon re Night? Have I placed the Christmas tree
order? There’s plenty of things to keep my mind occupied.
It’s also o en a time of change amongst the team. September and January are de nitely the most popular times for people to hand in their notice, seeking a new life with the new season. This is human nature, and shouldn’t be taken personally, but it can be an inconvenience to recruit and train with the silly season around the corner.
This year, there is another shadow hanging over our shop and others across the country. We have a new Government who have mandated change – another minimum wage increase, a reform of business rates and potential changes to workers’ rights. These unknowns hover in my mind. A er several years of cost increases, in ation, minimum wage rises and other pressures, we are crying out for some stability. Changes mean more work at a time when most of us can’t stomach it, nancially and psychologically. Yes, we take these risks when we choose to run our own businesses, but there’s only so much we can handle.
This year, there is another shadow hanging over our shop and others across the country.
O en, smaller shops are the heart of their communities, o ering a human connection and a preservation of a way of life that is important to all of us. From my little anonymous corner of the trade press, I urge the new Government not to push stretched small businesses further, for fear of losing them all together.
I am all for change for the better, but Labour ran on a mandate of bolstering our high streets and protecting small business and they need to keep this promise.
Enough politics – I have some pumpkins to display.
The wheat harvest in England is forecast to be 18% lower in 2024, compared with 2023, following unprecedented rainfall last winter, which severely impacted yields.
Source: The Energy and Climate Intelligence Unit [ECIU])
Retail eye
DIRECTOR CHRISTABEL
CAIRNS EXPLAINS THE RATIONALE BEHIND THE GUILD OF FINE FOOD’S NEW DIRECTORY
OPERATIONS & MARKETING
A prominent food journalist’s number one piece of marketing advice for hospitality and retail is to make sure outlets have their opening hours at the top of their Instagram accounts. Sometimes the most obvious things are the most o en missed. Such is the case with great retailers and producers. You exist, so others must know you exist too, right? Well, not always.
So many of us rush around in our normal routines and we miss things right in front of us – and small businesses need all the help they can get to grab our limited attention.
At the Guild, we sit on an amazing depository of fantastic businesses and the thing we’re asked the most o en is not – you’ll be surprised to hear – a question about the state of food politics, but: “what’s delicious and where should I buy it?”
Our new directory takes the rst steps to answer these questions. Jam-packed with products, producers and retailers, it acts as a onestop shop for recommendations and more. You can even email a producer directly.
A directory is only as good as its data, though, and a search is only as good as its functionality. We’re working on both, but this is also a database for the industry, not just of the industry. There’s no paywall and, as a retailer, no fee to be listed. Members are given listing prominence, but all independents can be part of it. Great Taste and World Cheese Awards producers are there, too.
It’s a resource for all of us. So, whether you want to nd your next listing for a speci c category, your next deli to visit on holiday, or your next customers, hopefully you’ll nd them here.
What can you do right now to help your business? Check your listing. Add some words about your company and, if you’re a member, add an image through the members’ portal.
With more people than ever before nding their next recommendation online, it’s as important to make your online shop fronts as accessible and appealing as your physical one.
Our new directory is jampacked with products, producers and retailers.
Whether it’s staff training, business advice, event space, making industry connections or opportunities to meet trade buyers and food lovers, the Guild of Fine Food does far more than publish FFD. The Guild has been championing independent food & drink for over 30 years. Join us today and find out what we can do for your business.
Support & ideas: support@gff.co.uk
Training & venue hire: bookings@gff.co.uk
Exhibition stands: opportunities@gff.co.uk
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New milk tests could prevent costly cheesemaker recalls
By Patrick McGuigan
Milk hygiene tests being pioneered by British cheesemakers could help producers avoid damaging food safety recalls and give them greater con dence to make raw milk cheeses.
The Petri lm plate tests currently being trialled by artisan cheesemakers enable them to test their own milk for coliforms – bacteria that are a red ag, suggesting hygiene issues on the farm or in the dairy. The plates can be used by cheesemakers to test milk in house more quickly and cheaply than using commercial labs, so they are able to head o problems before they escalate.
Fen Farm Dairy owner Jonny Crickmore and Graham Kirkham of Kirkham’s Lancashire have been using the plates successfully in their businesses this year and presented their experiences at the Specialist Cheesemakers Association Farm Visit.
“This could be a game changer for cheesemakers,” said Jonny Crickmore. “Results are ready in 24 hours instead of up to a week from commercial labs, so we are able to deal with any problems much more quickly. It could give cheesemakers more con dence
to make more raw milk cheeses in the future.”
The hope is that the tests will help raw milk cheesemakers avoid being involved in damaging and costly food safety recalls. While there are no legal limits to coliforms in milk for cheese, they can be a sign of serious pathogens, such as Shiga Toxin-producing E.coli (STEC), which are part of the coliform family.
“Coliforms are a hygiene indicator, and show whether there are aspects of the process that could be better controlled, from milking hygiene to milk pipeline design,” said Bronwen Percival, technical director at Neal’s Yard Dairy. “Work that lowers the number of coliforms is also likely to lower the
NEWS IN BRIEF
Norwegian blue cheese Nidelven Blå, made by Gangstad Gårdsysteri and named World Champion at last year’s World Cheese Awards, is now being sold in the UK by The Fine Cheese Co.
The Trethowan Brothers have launched a smoked version of their Pitchfork Cheddar. The farmhouse cheese is cold-smoked over oak by The Wiltshire Smokehouse in Frome, Somerset.
Renowned cheesemaker Chris Ashby passed away recently. She was a hugely influential figure in the British artisan cheese scene, serving as a teacher and consultant to many of the country’s producers.
probability of getting STEC into the milk.”
Neal’s Yard is also working with researchers at Imperial College London, who have developed a cheap and exible kit for on-farm PCR tests, which can detect the DNA of speci c pathogens.
“Applying these at farm level are an interesting possibility, but a lot more work needs to be done to scope out how it might work in practice,” said Percival.
Crickmore told FFD that he is encouraging other cheesemakers to start using the Petri lm plates, made by Neogen, which cost £80 for a pack of 50 tests. Samples are cultured on the farm in an incubator that costs just over £100.
Expect a bump in French cheese sales this Christmas with the publication this month of Ned Palmer’s latest cheese book.
A Cheesemonger’s Tour de France, published by Profile Books, explores the history, terroir and flavours of France’s greatest fromages. It follows A Cheesemonger’s History of the British Isles, which was a Sunday Times best seller.
THREE WAYS WITH...
Ticklemore
Sharpham Cheese, which has just moved to a new dairy at the South Devon Food Hub, is best known for its flying saucer shaped goat’s cheese, which is named after a street in nearby Totnes. Made with pasteurised goat’s milk, the cheese is made a little like a Caerphilly, but has a snowy white rind like a brie. The heart of the cheese is crumbly and lemony, while the fudgey layer beneath the rind has an umami depth.
Caramelised fig chutney
Sharpham owner Greg Parsons is a big fan of figs with Ticklemore because the sweetness of the fruit contrasts with the bright acidity of the cheese. Fresh figs work well or try Sharpham’s very own Caramelised Fig and Pinot Noir Chutney, which is made by Devonbased Highfield Preserves specifically to match the cheese.
Cheese pie
Chef Thomasina Myers loves Ticklemore as a key ingredient in a hearty shortcrust pie made with leek and tarragon. The cheese is crumbled in alternate layers with sautéed leek and tarragon, mixed with steamed potato, cream and mustard, to make a filling that is both tangy and sweet.
Pinot Gris
There are some great wines being made in Devon, which are a natural choice for the fruity character of Ticklemore. Sandridge Barton Pinot Gris, which used to be made on the same estate as Sharpham, is a good bet. It has a lovely clean acidity, but also notes of ripe apple and pear, which echo the zesty cheese.
CHEESE
Village Maid to up its capacity with new Barkham Blue dairy
By Patrick McGuigan
Village Maid Cheese has built a new dairy at its premises near Riseley in Berkshire, which will enable it to more than triple production of Barkham Blue.
The award-winning cheese, which was made by Two Hoots in nearby Barkham, for more than 20 years was acquired by Village Maid earlier this year when Two Hoots founders Sandy and Andy Rose decided to retire. Sandy is the cousin of Village Maid founder Anne Wigmore.
The new dairy, which is adjacent to the existing production space, is due to open this month and measures around 155 sq m. As well as providing room to ramp up production of Barkham Blue, the space will enable Village Maid to increase its milk holding and maturing room capacity by more than double. It will also provide more capacity for Village Maid’s hard cheeses, Spenwood and Heck eld, with extra mature versions of the cheeses now a possibility.
CHEESE IN PROFILE with
Cashel Blue
What’s the story?
Jane and Louis Grubb first started making this moreish, creamy blue cheese using the milk from their herd of pedigree Friesian cows on their 200-acre farm in Co. Tipperary.
Despite being the very first Irish blue cheese, it won 1st place at the Clones Agricultural Show in its first year and went on to secure their first UK orders the following year.
Not much has changed since those early days; the reins have been
“We always wanted to explore the blue cheese world but never wanted to step on the toes of Two Hoots,” said director Jake Wigmore, son of Anne Wigmore. “When Sandy and Andy announced they wanted to retire and sell their business, it was a good opportunity for us to delve into blue cheese but was also a natural progression for Barkham Blue itself, as we have
handed over to their daughter Sarah and her family and a new purpose-built dairy has helped to secure the future for generations to come.
The cows continue to graze on the verdant summer pastures from April to October, helping to make a farmhouse cheese that truly reflects the quality of their grass-fed milk. A regular medal winner, most recently winning the Golden Fork from Ireland award in Great Taste 2024, it is easy to understand why Cashel Blue is one of Ireland’s best-loved blues.
shared the same Guernsey milk supplier, Lacey’s Family Farm in High Wycombe, for more than 20 years. It sits perfectly in our range. Blue was the missing piece of the puzzle.”
He added that there would be plenty of Barkham Blue available for Christmas, while other plans were in the pipeline to mark the 40th anniversary of Village Maid in 2026. villagemaidcheese.co.uk
BEHIND THE COUNTER TIPS OF THE TRADE
Jake Fischer, The Cheesy Living Co, Leeds
Jake Fischer and his partner Sophie Branowsky first set up The Cheesy Living Co as an online cheese business during lockdown, but quickly moved to open a shop in Leeds’ Corn Exchange in 2022.
Since then, they’ve opened a second shop and restaurant in the city’s Oakwood area and have expanded into organising cheese events and outside catering. Keeping on top of it all is a constant learning curve, says Fischer.
“The business has evolved really quickly and we’re having to put systems in place to make it more efficient,” he says. “We do a lot with spreadsheets and WhatsApp groups, but the key thing is finding the right staff, who understand that every part of our business is about hospitality.”
The long-term plan is to make the business’s operational structure and procedures clearer and simpler so that opening more sites will be easier. “At the moment I look after one shop and Sophie looks after the other. We want to get to a place where we don’t have to be in the day-to-day running so much and have a better overview of the business.”
thecheesylivingco.co.uk
After three days, the cheeses are demoulded and salted and on the fourth, piercing takes place to allow the blue veining to spread internally.
paste develops a creamy complexity, with hints of sweet spice and a nutty tang.
Variations: None
Cheesemonger tip:
It is named after the historic Rock of Cashel, a medieval castle that was once the seat of the Kings of Munster.
How is it Made?
Cashel Blue is made entirely by hand, using pasteurised milk. Vegetarian rennet and Penicillium roqueforti are added to the warm milk and, after regular turning of the curds, they are ladled into moulds.
Once blue, the cheeses are wrapped in foil to prevent rind development and slow the ripening. They are aged on the farm for a minimum of 10 weeks, and up to 6 months.
Appearance & texture:
When young, Cashel Blue is pale, firm and creamy edged with a pleasant tanginess. As the cheese matures, it takes on an increasingly butttery-golden colour with green-blue marbling. The
The soft and silky, gentle flavours make a great gateway cheese for anyone who shies away from blues. Delicious spread thickly on crusty white, or walnut bread and fig chutney, served with a stout, porter or hoppy pale ale.
Chef’s recommendation: Great melted onto a grilled steak or blended into a sauce for tacos and wings. Particularly delicious served with a glass of Vin Sinto.
Inspired by France
The founder of Wacky Wedge in Wales has created a crottin-style cheese that is already gaining plaudits
By Patrick McGuigan
BRADLEY CUNNINGHAM’S PATH to becoming an award-winning goats’ cheesemaker started with one particularly ne French variety he bought from the Cheese Hamlet in Manchester.
“I’d always loved the cheese there and became obsessed with a Tomme de Chèvre Fermière,” he says. “It wasn’t what you’d expect from a tomme. It was so and round and had a wrinkly rind, and the avour wasn’t too goaty, but was smokey and peppery. It started a conversation about what goes into cheese and how it’s made.”
An engineer by trade, Cunningham was so taken with the tomme that he started making cheeses with his wife Beth, using frozen goats’ milk. “They were awful,” he admits. “But if I like something, I want to nd out more.”
The couple moved to Bangor, North Wales in 2022, where they were able to keep a few goats in a rented stable and continue “playing around with cheese”. It might not have gone any further, but a meeting with cheesemaker Carrie Rimes – who owns Cosyn Cymru in Bethesda and makes the small lactic sheep’s milk cheese Brefu Bach – meant cheesemaking soon became more than a hobby.
“I was so nervous because I’d heard so much about her and her cheese, but she was the most disarming and lovely person,” he says. He ended up spending a year working with Rimes while juggling his day job. “It was the best experience of my life,” he says. “Carrie is just an amazing font of knowledge.”
Last year, Rimes suggested he started
making his own goats’ cheese by renting space at her dairy and so the Wacky Wedge Cheese Co was born. Its agship crottin-style cheese Yr Afr (pronounced ‘er ahver’) is made with raw milk from a tiny herd in Snowdonia. Cunningham is still working, but makes cheese on his days o and weekends. It’s sold to Welsh retailers, plus La Fromagerie and Neal’s Yard Dairy.
Wacky Wedge is one of a new wave of Welsh cheesemakers, including Angleseybased Mon Las, Ffynnon Wen in Llandeilo and Caws Penhelyg in Aberystwyth. Key to the movement has been the support of Welsh cheesemongers, such as the Welsh Cheese Company, Blas ar Fwyd and Marches Delicatessen. “If you have retailers to support small cheesemakers it makes such a di erence.”
Goats’ milk is a big part of the market with dozens of di erent cheeses now being made in Wales by companies such as Y Cwt Caws, Pant Mawr and Bryngaer Goats. It’s part of a wider trend, with a 53% increase in the number of goats’ cheeses entered in this year’s Artisan Cheese Awards, according to the newly formed Milking Goats Association.
“If you want to get into cheese, goats are probably the easiest way,” says Cunningham. “They’re not prohibitively expensive to buy and look a er, and they give a decent amount of milk.”
Yr Afr was one of the big winners at the Artisan Cheese Awards this year, taking home a gold medal and being named Best Micro Producer cheese. The big question, however, is whether it lives up to the French goats’ cheese that started Cunningham on his cheese journey in the rst place?
“The Cheese Hamlet only had it in for a little while, so I haven’t had it for ages,” he says. “I’ve looked for it online and can’t nd it anywhere. I would love to try it again.” wackywedge.com
If you have retailers’ support, it makes such a di erence
Yr Afr
Yr Afr, which means ‘the goat’ in Welsh, is made with raw milk from a farm in Snowdonia, where Elizabeth Darbyshire has just 24 goats. Similar in style to crottin, the milk is acidified overnight with starter cultures and coagulated with thistle rennet. 1
Cunningham makes twice a week, around 160 100g cheeses. He plans to increase production as the farm grows its herd. Wacky Wedge also received a £1,000 bursary from the Specialist Cheesemakers’ Association to invest in new equipment to make a hard cheese.
The 100g cheeses have a wrinkly geotrichum rind and delicate paste beneath, including a silky breakdown at the edges. The flavour is savoury and mushroomy near the rind; the core is creamy and zingy. Neal’s Yard Dairy has been offering advice and feedback on the cheeses.
WE ARE RECRUITING!
Here at the Guild of Fine Food, we’re recruiting for three full-time, permanent positions to join our team as soon as possible:
SALES ASSISTANT
Gillingham, Dorset
OPERATIONS ASSISTANT
Gillingham, Dorset
MARKETING & OPERATIONS ASSISTANT
London
We’re a small team with a big impact and roles like this don’t come up very often. You’d be joining the Guild at an exciting moment in our development and working with a group of talented, friendly and hard-working individuals who are passionate about our purpose-driven activities for independent retailers and producers. For more detailed info on each role and to apply: g .co.uk/opportunities
Dorset producer Langham has released its first Blanc de Blancs NV Extra Brut. The traditional method English Sparkling is aged in a mix of stainless steel and old oak and goes through extended lees ageing and malolactic conversion. The result is said to have smoky, complex aromas of dried orange, liquorice and poached pear, giving bright, fragrant pomelo and ripe peach on the palate. RRP £43.95. langhamwine.co.uk
Skip says cold-pressed CBD drink is only futureproof product on the market
By Tanwen Dawn-Hiscox
The owner of new cannabidiol (CBD) drinks brand Skip believes his products have a competitive edge over others in the category because it is exempt from current regulations governing the cannabis plant-derived substance.
a 2019 in ux of products containing CBD, which is said to have health bene ts. The majority of these products feature CBD isolates, which are derived from other extraction methods.
available CBD drinks above the daily recommended dose.
isolates are manufactured.”
While most products were allowed to remain on sale, producers had to apply to the FSA for a license, and the body has since reduced the maximum recommended dose of CBD from 70mg a day down to 10mg, placing most commercially
Sustainable wine producer Sea Change is now making an Organic Picpoul de Pinet. With aromas of citrus blossom and Mediterranean herbs, it's said to have high acidity levels and a savoury minerality that make it a perfect match for seafood. The packaging is plasticfree. he brand has so far donated around £500,000 to marine conservation charities. seachangewine.com
Skip drinks, which come in Peach & Ginger, Elder ower & Mint and Lemon & Basil avours with an RRP of £1.79 a 250ml can, contain CBD extracted by cold-pressing hemp oil, which cannot be banned from sale under the Food Standards Agency’s current regulations.
While CBD does not contain the active ingredient known as THC (which renders the high associated with ingesting cannabis) the FSA introduced regulations in 2020 governing its sale because it has been deemed a “novel food”, ie not consumed before 1997.
This was a response to
Skip founder Adam Pritchard – a former shareholder in CBD product brand Love Hemp and also the founder of PomeGreat – believes that Skip, which launched in July, is futureproof because it will not exceed the dosage and risk being removed from sale.
“Because of our process of manufacturing the CBD – it’s pressed, not extracted, which is how all
Industry mourns drinks writer, cidermaker and ‘amazing woman’, Susanna Forbes
“In the last two years, we’ve perfected the ability to turn that ingredient into a water-soluble CBD, which is able to deliver a consistent dosage, being stable and allowing us to put really a very high quality CBD into so drinks – and the so drinks category is obviously where there’s been a huge growth in consumers.”
Pritchard believes Skip is the most e ective in its category too, stating that team had worked with researchers at Oxford University to demonstrate that the drinks contain eight times the concentration of a standard CBD isolate product.
stating
A presentation provided by the company says the e ect “can create a greater sense of relaxation, improved pain relief, improved sleep, improved mood”, adding that “it can also help reduce anxiety, depression, and in ammation.” drinkskip.com
and social media feeds to share stories of how she had touched their lives.
Vignette is the latest alcoholfree wine from Wednesday’s Domaine. The blend of oaked Petit Verdot and Tempranillo is dealcoolised and combined with grape sugars and ginger to mimic the characteristics of a classic full-bodied red wine. It promises notes of dark plums and hints of spice and forest floor. RRP £15. wednesdaysdomaine. com
Friends and colleagues have paid tribute to Susanna Forbes, the celebrated writer and producer who made up one half of the Little Pomona cidery, after she passed away last month.
Known as of the most influential drinks writers in the UK, and in the most recent part of her career, as a champion of craft cider production, Forbes dedicated herself to bringing people together to reshaping both the public and the trade’s perception of cider.
Forbes studied Physics at the University of Exeter and, after working as a branch manager at
Oddbins, enjoyed a 23-year career as a writer for Wine International, Imbibe, and her own website, Drink Britain, where she covered the production of artisanal British drinks and promoted drinks tourism. Her interest in cider and perry grew to the point of buying up land in Herefordshire with her husband, James Forbes (pictured with her above), to produce their own, in 2015. Together they crafted innovative artisan ciders, pioneering a gastronomic approach; they were
among the first to sell cider in 750ml bottles, thus far the reserve of wine.
In 2018, Forbes wrote The Cider Insider, a guide to ciders from around the world. In 2019, she co-founded and became the editor of Full Juice magazine. Her involvement in Ciderlands helped promote cider tourism, and she helped create networks within female cider makers through her work with Cider Women.
As the news hit of her death following a four-year battle with cancer, many took to their publications
Drinks writer Fiona Beckett described her as “an amazing woman, fizzing with ideas – one of the very nicest people in the industry”.
Tom Oliver, founder of Oliver’s Cider, said: “Susanna was a powerhouse of energy and determination which, coupled with an ability to see the potential in everyone and everything, made her the perfect champion for her chosen cause, cider.”
Lauding her many contributions to the industry, he added: “We have lost a truly beautiful person but we are all so much the better for all she did.”
The sweetest taste
Cretan thyme honey-makers Yannis, George and Eleni Leontarakis have spent the past 16 years perfecting a low-intervention approach, which is respectful of their bees, promotes biodiversity and creates an irresistible product – this year’s Great Taste Supreme Champion.
HONEY PRODUCTS OFTEN do well in Great Taste. Out of 520 entered this year, 353 – almost seven out of 10 – were deemed worthy of a 1-star, 2-star or 3-star award.
Of those, 20 received 3-stars. That’s just shy of 4% of entries within the category, compared with 1.8% 3-star products across all categories.
So, how to explain this statistical anomaly? Do Great Taste judges have a biased inclination for sweet things?
A more plausible (and duly serious) theory is that when honey is produced to a high standard, you can taste it. Honey should re ect the landscape around it: the weather, the climate, the aspect the hives are facing and their proximity to the sea, the quality of soil and the diversity of owers available for the bees to forage.
And no two are the same – their physical properties vary according to water content, forage, temperature, and the particular blend of sugars they contain. Good honey reveals provenance and terroir – it tells a story.
The judges certainly gleaned a narrative from this year’s Supreme Champion product, a thyme Honey made by MelicretaLeontarakis, a family business based in the Cretan village of Ligaria.
Judges noted that in the honey, an “initial sweetness opens up to a multifaceted, light yet heady oral character, that has impressive intensity, complexity and length”.
“This is a delicious expression of honey, transporting us straight to the sun-baked
Herbal forage components are deep and varied, but thyme shines through as a top note, which develops and endures long on the palate
GREAT TASTE 2024
grandfather started making it in 1948.
They named theirs “Authentiko” because they have gone to long lengths to respect the cra passed down to them by their grandfather and father, one of meticulous but minimal intervention.
It being crowned the best of 13,672 products entered into Great Taste 2024 is meaningful for consumers, buyers and retailers, and for the judges who singled it out, because it is an incontrovertible indication of quality.
hillsides”, they said. While its “herbal forage components are deep and varied, thyme shines through as a top note, which develops and endures long on the palate.”
Even though they tasted the honey blind, they detected the producer’s key technique, which is to move the 3,000 beehives around as di erent plants ower, resulting in a complex, diverse array of aromas and avours – e ectively a natural blend of all the nectar collected by the bees.
Brothers Yannis, George and their sister Eleni have been making raw honey for 16 years, but the family’s history of it dates back three generations, to when their
But upon winning both the Golden Fork for Greece and the Supreme Champion title, having rst entered products into Great Taste in 2016, Eleni Leontarakis said: “We entered Great Taste because we thought it would help us tell people about the work we do every day. So much thought goes into it and to be recognised for the work that we do is just amazing.
“We never expected to do so well but it gives us a reason to keep pushing every day. We’re so happy.”
Having made 15 tonnes this year – down from 20, due to drought – with 10 tonnes allocated to exports, the Leontarakis are now selling the honey in the UK, and hope the award will open up more opportunities in delis, farm shops and specialist Greek and Cretan retail.
If nothing else, to counter the dominance of cheap honeys on the market with something truly worth its nectar. melicreta.gr
WHAT ARE THE GOLDEN FORKS?
The Golden Forks mark the end of this year’s Great Taste, the 31 year-old accreditation scheme known to most in the food & drink industry. This year saw 13,672 products from 115 countries judged by a panel of 500 chefs, retailers, food writers and critics. Items deemed worthy, on the sole basis of taste, received 1-star, 2-star or 3-star recognition. Among the 3-star winners, 16 producers also received a Golden Fork for being the best in their region or for being exemplary in another capacity. Melicreta-Leontarakis, as well as scooping the Golden Fork from Greece, was named Great Taste Supreme Champion 2024.
GREAT TASTE 2024
And the winners are…
Every year, thousands of hardworking producers enter their products into Great Taste in the hope of winning an award. Among them are the winners of the Golden Forks – the very best producers in their region, or rewarded for serving the food & drink industry in one way or another.
Lübecker Marzipan from Germany
Discover more about the exceptional quality of European foods, where tradition, cra smanship, and rigorous standards come together to create unparalleled culinary experiences.
Blending Innovation & Quality
Isigny Sainte-Mère Crème Fraîche d’Isigny AOP 40%
GREAT TASTE 2024 >>
Junjie Lin Tea Garden Smaller Green Leafhopper Honey Flavour Black Tea
GREAT TASTE 2024
GREAT TASTE 2024
WOULD YOU LIKE TO TAKE PART IN GREAT TASTE 2025?
The Golden Forks was the final event in the Great Taste 2024 calendar, but it won’t be long before it all kicks off again.
Whether you have products to enter, if you’d like to register your interest to be a judge or to search the Guild’s directory for Great Taste 2024 winners, visit gff.co.uk/greattaste
To find out more the producers, independent retailers, buyers, and Great Taste judges working together to raise the bar of food & drink available to consumers, listen to the Great Taste podcast, available at gff.co.uk/greattastepodcast
Discover the rich flavours of our local produce and indulge in the freshest autumnal Welsh delights. Celebrate the season with Welsh food and drink.
Our all-in-one Flavour Bombs are designed to simplify the process of creating delicious and authentic dishes. Just add one Flavour Bomb to water along with your choice of meat or veggies - no need to chop, blitz, or mix any seasoning; a delicious culinary experience without the fuss. Plus, some of our flavours are vegan and gluten-free! Whether you’re preparing a Seafood Boil, Birria Tacos, Pho, Jollof or Coconut Curry, our Flavour Bombs are a passport to flavours from around the world with just a drop, stir, and enjoy! Unique, delicious and made in the UK with only the highest quality ingredients. Each one also comes with easy step-by-step instructions and recipe ideas! www.flavourbombs.com
APPLE TARTE FINE FROM THE DELI KITCHEN
A thin, crisp, caramelised tarte fine of apples truly is one of life’s great pleasures. There is no need for an exact recipe, so here’s a simple “what to do” with rough quantities.
Makes 6-8 slices
Ingredients:
2 medium-size apples
Puff pastry rolled out to 2-3 mm thick
Melted butter
Icing sugar
A tablespoon of apricot jam melted with a splash of boiling water
Method:
• Prick your piece of puff pastry with a fork – everywhere except 1cm from the edge. This will prevent the pastry from rising. It retains all the eating qualities, but this tarte is all about being thin and crisp, not light, puffed up and airy.
• Peel your apples, cut the two main sides of apple off by slicing each side of the core. Then cut the two remaining pieces off so you are left with a core and four pieces of apple (two large and two smaller).
• Carefully slice the apple into 1-2mm thick pieces and lay them onto the pastry, heavily overlapping.
Recipe by Phil Howard co-owner of elystanstreet.com
• Work methodically using enough apple to cover the pastry, leaving a 1cm band around the edge. Use a pastry brush to carefully but generously brush the melted butter over the apple. This is will help it caramelise and also stops the apple from discolouring.
• Pour the icing sugar into a fine sieve and dust the icing sugar generously over the entire tarte.
• Preheat the oven to 200°C | 180°C (fan) | gas mark 6.
• Bake the tarte for 30-40 minutes or until golden, caramelised and crisp.
• Remove from the oven and brush with the apricot jam glaze.
• Serve with vanilla ice cream or a dollop of lightly whipped cream.
INGREDIENTS & EQUIPMENT
Chef’s favourite St. Ewe Free Range Eggs has updated the packaging and pack sizes of its foodservice range. The ‘Rich Yolk’ eggs previously sold in mixed sizes will come guaranteed as a medium size, as is already the case for the ‘Signature’ box. Both will display partnerships and accolades with the Craft Guild of Chefs, the Roux Scholarship and Great Taste labels. steweeggs.com
Hamilton Beach
Commercial’s Mini BigRig Compact Stick Blender was created with small kitchens in mind, with an ergonomic design and a removable shaft allowing for easy storage. It has a 250mw motor, a variable speed dial and can be used to prepare 11L of food at a time. fem.co.uk
Australian Finger Lime pearls are made by freezing fresh fruit so that when served –with seafood, in cocktails, over ice cream, on cheese or charcuterie boards – the vesicles pop in the mouth like caviar. The pearls come in four – natural – colours. limecaviar.co.uk
CATEGORY FOCUS
Top up and stock up
When the summer rolls into the autumn, planning for Christmas gets real – and we’ve got you covered with more new launches for the festive season. But if you’re already as ready as can be, check out the latest NPD in storecupboard ingredients (p.42) to keep your shelves looking fresh.
Compiled by Lynda Searby
Italianinspired Christmas logs
Café Brera in Battersea has elevated the Christmas log to new levels, creating three new variations of this festive sponge. The Red Velvet Log layers chocolate red velvet sponge, cream and raspberry jelly, and is topped with fresh berries and white chocolate; the Tropical Log, based on the café’s ‘Torti di Rafaello’, combines almond sponge dipped in coconut syrup with mango & passionfruit mousse and coconut jelly; and the Chocolate Log offers “chocolate, chocolate and more chocolate”. Each provides 4-6 portions and has an RRP of £70. Delivery is via GOPHR. cafebrera.com
The Biskery is offering an alternative to the conventional advent calendar with its Edible Affirmations Advent Calendar. The Yorkshire biscuit maker’s Christmas biscuit tin provides 12 days of kindness in the form of 12 jam biscuits stamped with words of affirmation. RRP is £29.95. thebiskery.com
Barry Island Spirits Co is releasing limited edition Gavin and Stacey-themed bottles of Barry Island Gin, Pink Gin, Rum, and Vodka in time for Christmas.
‘The G&S Edition’ bottles have been designed to celebrate the iconic sitcom and are billed as the perfect gift for fans ahead of the final episode. RRP is £40 for a 50cl bottle. barryislandspirits.co.uk
Peter’s Yard has unveiled a seasonal tin featuring a selection of best-selling sourdough flavours.
Original Sourdough, Rosemary & Sea Salt, Rye & Charcoal and Pumpkin & Sunflower Seed crackers have all made it into the tin, which also contains a cheese pairing wheel created in partnership with the Academy of Cheese. The 250g tin is available via Cotswold Fayre, Holleys Fine Foods and Suma; RRP £12. petersyard.com
One of two festive releases from Mrs Darlington‘s, Blood Orange Marmalade with Orange Liqueur, promises to give a “lively lift” to morning toast or pastries thanks to an added dash of orange liqueur. It is available via the producer’s wholesalers, along with its other seasonal addition, Apple & Sage Jelly. mrsdarlingtons.com
Edmunds Cocktails has mixed two new cocktails for the festive period. The White Chocolate Christmas Cocktail is crafted with vegan ice cream liqueur Licor 43 Horchata, Luxardo Amaretto, Sapling Vodka, vanilla and nutmeg, while the Gingerbread Espresso Martini blends Sapling Vodka and FAIR’s Café Liqueur with a gingerbread kick. RRP £39.95 for a 1L bottle, wholesale price £22. edmundscocktails.co.uk
Rather than going with a traditional festive design, Yep Kitchen has gone with a retro space theme for its Sichuan Box. Designed with a magnetic closure and touches of sparkle for a premium feel, the gift box features 4 x 100g jars of the brand’s Chinese-inspired chilli oils and fermented products as well as a branded bamboo spoon. RRP £25; trade price £15.63. yepkitchen.com
CLF Distribution has Christmas baking wrapped up with Just Natural Mixed Peel (RRP £2.29; trade £1.38) and Mixed Fruit with Peel (RRP £2.49; trade £1.50). The whole range is packaged in plastic-free compostable materials and also includes nuts, seeds, pulses, flours and spices. clfdistribution.com
Suffolk producer Hilton Macarons has translated some big festive flavours into macaron format with its Christmas Classics collection. Orange Chocolate & Hazelnut; Brandy Butter (made with real brandy); Christmas Pudding (made with Lilly Puds gluten-free Christmas pudding); Mulled Spice; and Eggnog are the six flavours in the range, which doesn’t just taste festive, but also looks the part, sporting reds, greens, whites and golds.
The macarons are made in the producer’s kitchen in Framlingham, using Italian meringue, free range eggs and natural ingredients.
They are available in 6, 12 and 18-piece boxes, with respective wholesale prices of: £8.50-9.50 (RRP £12-14), £12.50-13.50 (RRP £20-22), and £15.50-16.50 (RRP £28-30). Wholesale customers can also buy them in tray format (priced at £0.80-0.95 per macaron). Frozen shipping is available for all products. hiltonmacarons.co.uk
The Four Seasons British Honey Gift Box from B Corp British beekeeper collective Black Bee Honey celebrates a year in honey, bringing together Black Bees’ four single source ‘flower to jar’ seasonal honeys in a gift box illustrated by Cari Vander Yacht. Honey lovers can journey through the seasons, starting with a soft set spring honey, followed by a runny wildflower summer honey, dark, treacle-like autumn honey and finally a winter honey with hints of menthol. The gift box is available in two sizes: 4 x 227g jars (RRP £29.95); and 4 x 42g jars (RRP £14.95). blackbeehoney.com
Move over Wensleydale, The Cheshire Cheese Company is staking its claim on the Christmas cheeseboard. The producer has launched a special edition truckle that blends Cheshire Cheese with cranberries (RRP £5.50).
“Christmas goes handin-hand with the iconic taste of cranberry”, says director Emma Daniels. ”Time for Cheshire Cheese to take the spotlight.” cheshirecheesecompany. co.uk
These three new sets from Chimi Love provide an opportunity for retailers to brighten up their shelves and for consumers to gift the flavours of South America. Priced at £10.25 to the trade (RRP £18.99), each pack contains three sauces that promise to transform meals into a “fiesta of flavours”. These include chimichurri and aji sauces, chutneys and mayos, featuring ingredients like red pepper, chipotle and jalapeño. chimi.love
The Garden Pantry has two new gift sets this year. The Artisan Gift Set (RRP £21.95) is filled with Christmas Chutney, Mulled Wine Jam and Piccalilli plus three miniatures; while the 3 Jar Gift Set (RRP £13.50) has Christmas Chutney, Mulled Wine Jam and Brandy Mincemeat. thegardenpantry.co.uk
Original Biscuit Bakers is tapping into the current gonk obsession with the launch of a handdecorated gingerbread version of the Nordic gnome. Presented in a counter display box, the iced gonk biscuits are available in cases of 16 direct from the producer or via Cotswold Fayre, The Cress Company or Bon Bons. Trade price from £2.16; RRP £3.50. originalbiscuitbakers. co.uk
Tipped as a neat hosting gift, The Christmas Collection from Tracklements (RRP £13.50) is a selection of four jars, each bringing a taste of Yuletide to the table. Cranberry, Port & Orange Sauce, Sticky Fig Relish, Spiced Plum Chutney and Christmas Spice Chutney all star in the set, providing an accompaniment option for everything from cheese to turkey and terrines. tracklements.co.uk
Lake District producer Wild & Fruitful claims to have captured the traditional flavours of Christmas in its new seasonal jam. Christmas Pudding Jam combines figs, dried fruit, orange and festive spices in an open pan recipe, and has a trade price of £2.47; RRP £3.70 for a 235g jar. wildandfruitful.co.uk
Behind the doors of the Bonne Maman advent calendars are 23 mini jars of conserves especially developed for the festive season and not usually available in the UK. These include Purple Fig with Cinnamon, Cherries with Chestnut Honey and Apricot with Orange Blossom. The calendars are available to the trade in cases of five, priced at £92.50 per case (or £18.50 per unit). bonnemaman.co.uk
Spice Kitchen has made its foray into chocolate, developing a trio of spiced chocolate bars in collaboration with Coco Pzazz, a chocolate company that works with sustainable cocoa growing communities in Ghana. The Cardamom Bun White Chocolate, Chai Spiced Milk Chocolate and Gingerbread & Honeycomb Milk Chocolate bars come in plastic-free packaging and have a trade price of £2.90 for 80g; RRP £4.95. spicekitchenuk.com
This festive gifting format from Dorset Ginger Company (RRP £18.15) will appeal to those who take pleasure in the powerful, warming kick that genuine ginger drinks deliver. Retailers can choose any five 33cl bottles from Dorset Ginger Company’s 11-strong range of real ginger drinks. dorsetginger.ltd
Before Chocolate is a new hot chocolate brand whose aim is to take chocolate back to its origins before mass production. Its hot chocolate is made from ground whole cacao bean - rather than processed cocoa powder - and it uses South American Fino de Aroma single origin cacao beans. Available in Original, Orange and Spiced varieties, its 135g packs are ideal as stocking fillers. beforechocolate.com
Oat milk chocolate brand H!P has added three Christmas gifting options to its offering. The HIP ’n’ Mix pouch (RRP £3.50 for 90g) contains oat m!lk chocolate buttons, chocolate-coated peanuts and chocolatecovered pretzel balls; the Gingerbread Cookie Bar (RRP £3.50/70g) offers a contemporary twist on a winter classic; and the Xmas Gift Box (RRP £12) brings both products together in a gift pack format. hipchocolate.com
North Chocolates already counts Fenwick among the stockists of its new Clementine & Almond chocolate bar. Gift-wrapped in emerald foil with ribbon, the 90g bar is available in both milk and 70% dark chocolate, and has an RRP of £5.95£6.95; trade price from £3.25. northchocolates.co.uk
Etxenike’s pâté screams luxury, from the gold tins to the product itself, traditionally made in the Pyrenean town of Burguete. Delicioso is carrying two selection boxes: one featuring Ibérico Ham, Basque T-Bone Steak and Wild Boar pâtés, and the other Free Range Duck Fondant, Smoked Salmon Mousse and Free Range Goose Mousse. Trade prices are £13.95 and £14.95 respectively. delicioso.co.uk
This artisanal ‘nduja from Italian producer Antico Nero d’Aspromonte is made by naturally curing meat from black pigs of Calabria according to an ancient Spilinga recipe. This semi-wild breed forages acorns, chestnuts, roots and tubers, giving the meat a characteristic flavour. Presented in a 400g jar, it is said to make an elegant gourmet gift. Wholesale price is £8.99. nerodaspromonte.com
Inspired by the Monty Bojangles’ Purrs box, this advent calendar is said to be the ‘purrfect’ way to count down to Christmas, with a Purrs truffle hiding behind each door. The calendar is Rainforest Alliance certified and has an RRP of £17.99. montybojangles.com
Bath bombs for the saucepan
Foodie entrepreneur Tina Faghihi-Hallam has come up with a new concept that simplifies the creation of time-consuming and complex dishes: Flavour Bombs.
More than just a spice mix or flavour enhancer, these clever balls contain not only the herb and spice component of a recipe, but also the garlic, onions and other base ingredients. They can simply be dropped into a pot of water to create dishes such as Seafood Boil, Birria Tacos, Pho Broth and Guyanese Coconut Curry. Trade price is £4.25; RRP £7.50. flavourbombs.com
The Korean Pantry is advocating an alternative approach to seasoning with its new kimchi flakes. Made by drying the producer’s own kimchi to preserve its intense flavours, the vegan-friendly, additive-free seasonings can be added to everyday cooking. RRP £5.95; trade price £4.15. koreanpantry.co.uk
La Cerqua Tartufi says that traditional methods and fine ingredients deployed in the production of its Chitarrine al Tartufo result in an “exceptional culinary experience”. Truffles foraged from the Sibillini mountains in central Italy form the basis of this artisan pasta, which is shaped using bronze dyes and slow dried at low temperatures. RRP is £6.50; trade price £3.50 with a MOQ of six cases. lacerqua.com
Freja Instant Bone Broth promises a clean-label, nutrient-rich alternative to traditional stock cubes. Made from bone broth and herbs, the powder is said to be high in protein, and packed with collagen and essential nutrients, without the ultraprocessed ingredients found in conventional options. Instant Bone Broth comes in two flavours - chicken and beef. RRP £5.99 for a pack of four 15g sachets. frejafoods.com
Time-poor home cooks will welcome Biona’s new organic cooking pastes, which eliminate the need for peeling and chopping garlic and ginger. The are three SKUs in the range: Garlic Paste, Ginger Paste and Garlic & Ginger Paste. RRP £3.19 for 130g. biona.co.uk
Chili Maven is making Mexican cooking easier with its new range of mole products. The moles comes in powder form, which can be mixed with water or broth to create a sauce that is the Mexican equivalent of a curry sauce, but more complex - each powder blends between 10 and 30 ingredients. There are three varieties: Adobo, Pipian Rojo and Almendrado. RRP £6 for a 100g pouch. chilimaven.com
Originally created as a one-off limited edition to use the mushroom trim from soy pickled mushrooms, The Extra One: Mushroom XO Sauce is now Miam’s most popular sauce. This umami and savoury blend of mushrooms, aromatics and spices is said to have “endless uses” and counts The Ivy Asia among its fans. RRP £7.50 for 190g; trade price £4.50. miamjars.com
A balance of British sea salt with wood-fired fennel seeds and Naga chillies, this new infused salt from Spiced Sussex is said to add a subtle, yet impactful finishing touch to everything from poached eggs and fresh vegetables to grilled meats and fish. RRP £3.95; trade price £2.96. @spicedsussex
storecupboard
According to Dear Farmer, the current spice market is saturated with old spices that lack flavour and freshness – a situation that the startup is determined to rectify. Its aim is to “revolutionise the spice market” by bringing fresh spices with unmatched flavour and aromas, all while empowering women farmers in the global south. It says its inaugural product, Lakadong turmeric powder, is world-renowned for its high (9.8%) curcumin content which is three times more than the standard. The turmeric is regeneratively grown in the hills of the Himalayas by a team of women farmers, then hand-cut and sun dried, giving it smoky and citrusy flavour notes. Dear Farmer claims to be the first to bring this turmeric variety to the UK. RRP £10 for 100g; trade price £39 for six jars. dearfarmer.co.uk
Since 2019, Millico has been working with coconut farmers in Thailand to cultivate young green coconuts for export. Since then, its product portfolio has evolved to take in coconut water, coconut chips and, most recently, organic coconut condiments. Launched into the UK earlier this year, Millico organic coconut condiments are all made from the nectar of coconut flower. Coconut Aminos (RRP £9.99; trade price £5.24/250ml) are a liquid seasoning that offer an alternative to soya sauce; Coconut Nectar (RRP £22.99; trade price £12.49/500g) is a natural sweetener; Coconut Sugar Sandy Gold (RRP £22.99; trade price £12.49/120g) is an unrefined natural coconut sugar; and Extra Virgin Coconut Oil (RRP £16.99; trade price £9.16/480ml) has a medium high smoke point, so can be used for cooking and baking. millico.com
Gymkhana has captured its two Michelin star taste in a range of slow cooked curry sauces. Made with the same recipes that have impressed diners at its London restaurant, the Butter Masala, Rogan Josh, Goan Curry and Vindaloo cooking sauces allow consumers to replicate these dishes at home. They are available to the trade via Diverse Fine Foods and CN Foods. RRP £6-7. gymkhanafinefoods.com
A traditional mustard powder is the latest introduction from Norfolk mustard producer Montys Montys says it is the only single estate mustard in Europe, and that each tin can be traced back to the fields it was grown in. Montys Mustard Powder is available in 45g and 110g tins, with respective trade prices of £1.14 and £2.35, and RRPs of £1.60-1.80 and £3.90-4.20. essencefoods.co.uk
Wild Rice says its new trio of Thai cooking sauces provide the base for an authentic green curry, Panang curry or Kaprow stir-fry in just ten minutes. The clean label sauces are made in Thailand using fresh local ingredients from small farms. RRP £4.50; trade price £2.80. wildricelondon.com
The New Yorkshire Emporium has launched three plant-based, gluten-free dry rubs that can spice up meat, fish, vegetables, tofu, halloumi and chips. The By’eck BBQ, By’eck Cor’Limey Mango and Chuffin By’eck Dry Rubs have a trade price of £1.65 for 60g; RRP £3. newyorkshireemporium. co.uk
“Beyond restaurant quality” is where Saucily founders Peter and Sherie Lau are pitching their ambient classic sauces. Born out of lockdown, the start-up has a range that takes in Creamy Peppercorn, Creamy White Wine, Sweet Red Wine and Diane sauces. They are listed in retailers up and down the country, and have a trade price of £2.50 per 200ml pouch. RRP £3.99. saucily.co.uk
KHĀVE wants to bring Himalayan Pink Salt to consumers in its purest form. Founded by Irfan Naseem, a third-generation Himalayan salt miner, the company sources salt from the foothills of the Himalayas in Pakistan. It comes in fine and coarse grains (RRP £5.50 for 350g; trade £5.50) as well as flakes (RRP £7 for 250g; trade £4.20). khave.com
Retailers on the search for a Super Negin grade saffron should check out Maha Persian Saffron, sourced from the Persian Gulf. The stigmas are hand-picked, requiring hundreds of flowers for just one gram of saffron, and have an especially high safranal and crocin content. Trade pricing starts at £3.50 per 1g jar for a minimum order of 15 jars, with bulk discounts available. RRP £4.99. wpfoods.co.uk
Bristol-based Soul Kitchen is on a mission to reinvent instant soups to offer “convenience without compromise”. The first step in this direction is a range of plant-based, gluten- and palm oilfree instant soups which champion real veg and contain no nasties. Each sachet provides 1 of your 5 a day and is packed full of vegetable powders and ‘superfoods’. RRP £1.75 per sachet. wearesoulkitchen.com
While many cardamom farmers in India rely heavily on pesticides, Food of Gods’ Chola Cardamom is cultivated in a bio-diverse forest in Tamil Nadu by a farmer who fights off pests using natural remedies. The pods have an RRP of £12.50 for 50g and are stocked by Selfridges. foodofgods.com
Doing good for every body
As well as operating a charity to support survivors of human tra cking, kombucha producer Holos’ range of fermented teas is arguably as enriching as the founders’ social achievements.
Interview by Tanwen Dawn-Hiscox
What were you doing before Holos and how did it come around?
Naomi Partridge: I started my working life with Cadbury. I was drawn there because it’s one of the original philanthropic businesses. I’d always wanted to make a personal impact, particularly working with women who’ve come through di cult situations. I found myself on a plane to Cambodia to go and volunteer there, and I met Megan on that plane.
Megan Landreth-Smith: I went to university in London, where I found out about women working in Soho’s red light district that had been tra cked in. For the next few years, I visited these women, making relationships with them, o ering them courses and training as a way out, but I knew they needed paid employment and something better than what they were being o ered.
NP: It turns out that we were volunteering for the same organisation in Phnom Penh, working with women who were being exploited. We ended up meeting a lady called Maya and we helped her come o the streets.
One of the ways that we supported her was getting her into work and using her skills as a way to become nancially independent and to nd a new way to live her life. And we were both captured by that. Megan stayed out there, and I came back, quit my corporate job and set up a charity. I started going into safe houses, doing employability work. Megan and I reconnected in 2016 and decided to start a business that would provide work skills, training women who have been exploited.
We’ll all buy something once for a good deed, but we want to be the most amazing kombucha out there
Where did the idea to make kombucha come from?
ML-S: I’d come across it in Cambodia – I’d been quite poorly for a number of months and although I was dubious about it, I tried it and I got better, which meant a lot to me. This was at the forefront of my mind when I met up with Naomi in 2016.
NP: I’d seen it over in America, where I lived for a year, and obviously it’s massive over there, and I had a feeling it would be huge here too. It really t the mission, the social impact. It needed to be something that you make with your hands that can give lots of di erent skills.
So, it came together in a beautiful way in that conversation. Megan and I thought, ‘let’s just go for it’. It went from there, from Megan’s kitchen into our o ce, into our garage, into a unit in London, now down here in West Sussex, where we’ve got a microbrewery.
How did you go about developing the range?
ML-S: We started with a classic kombucha, but over time we nessed the range and settled on our four key avours – Ginger & Hibiscus, Raspberry & Elder ower, Basil & Mint, and Citra Hops.
NP: My husband Tom is an engineer by background and so brought in that rigour in terms of development. He never wants us to be a pity buy. We’ll all buy something once for a good deed, but we want it to be the most amazing tasting kombucha out there.
And Joseph [Megan’s husband] brought in the high standard of photography and the branding, so it’s a very helpful combination of skills. We’ve always made our kombucha in small batches, and we’ve recently been able to certify it as organic - meaning our supply chain is robust and ethical and that our ingredients are naturally sourced. We also have a range of ambient cans which we developed to be on trade and in retail where fridge space is limited. A big breakthrough moment for us was when we launched into M&S. They had us in there for two years and that was a big opportunity to represent ourselves on a nationwide, premium listing.
How do you integrate the charity aspect into the business?
NP: As well as o ering employment placements, from the outset we wanted the impact of the business to last, so we donated 25% of founder shares to the Holos Foundation, which is now a registered charity. So, as we grow the business and the value of the brand, that can do more longterm to support survivors of exploitation.
ML-S: Because we’re in such an amazing area in Sussex, and a lot of women have never le London, we’re o ering them retreats to come and have some time in nature and some therapeutic experiences. We’ve had amazing testimonials of people feeling a sense of place, a sense of worth. It’s so exciting to see them come in and just through a tiny time, transformed.
Ultimately the goal is to o er more retreat options, and to have a community of houses where we can o er something long term.
What does the future look like for Holos?
NP: The focus with our chilled range is about brand building and getting it into the hands of consumers. We nd when we do sampling, the conversion rate is extremely high.
There’s an opportunity for some NPD with our canned range. Since we introduced it in 2022, the functional drinks o ering has evolved a lot. So at the moment working out how to stay true to what we believe in, but still make a desirable product for people that might not pick up a bottle of kombucha. Watch this space. holoskombucha.com
PRODUCTS & MERCHANDISING
Organico Realfoods rebrand targets ne food retail outlets
By Tanwen Dawn-Hiscox
Organico Realfoods has rebranded its entire range as it looks to capture more of the speciality and ne food market, targeting consumers seeking quality and avour on the same footing as credentials.
The ambient specialist has given the brand a youthful, bright new look, and has also made some recipe changes.
Its pasta portfolio, which includes Tagliatelle, Riccioli, Strozzapeti, Conchiglie, Girelle, Spaghetti and Penne (RRP £3.45), is still slow-dried in Puglia, but made to a new recipe. The vinegars are in new bottles; the crackers have been renamed Organic Rosemary Giant Crackers (RRP £3.25) while new additions include a Yellow Tomato and a Cherry Tomato Passata (RRP £3.95), a Balsamic Glaze (RRP £6.95), vegan Puttanesca and Bolognese sauces (RRP £3.50).
Organico, also behind the Fish4Ever brand, has always sought to navigate the certi cations landscape to attest to its minimal impact on the environment; to its e orts to look a er farmers and workers, and guaranteeing that its products are whole, nutritious and healthy. To this end, it ensures that all of its products are labelled with three certi cations: Organic; triple A Planetscore ratings; and B Corp. These are increasingly aligned with consumers attracted to the speciality and ne food sector, founder Charles Redfern told FFD.
“In the last 10, 15 years, we’ve seen a real burgeoning of really good brands with really good stories, origins, and really good quality raw
Tom’s Calabrian Hot Pasta Sauce is The Saucerer’s latest collaborative creation – this time with Hackney Downs restaurant and deli, Tom’s Pasta. The heat of fresh Calabrian chillies combined with the sweetness of honey is said to be the perfect partner for linguine and a great alternative base for lasagne, but can be used in a variety of ways: in sandwiches, on bruschetta or as a pizza topping.
New stockists of The Saucerer include Fortnum & Mason, Gladwells, Spinney’s in Dubai and Simmons Bakeries. RRP £4.95. thesaucerer.co.uk
materials,” he said. “And that’s what we’ve always been about.”
However the rebrand is focused on the more classic target audience, motivated by quality, avour, and a premium o ering. “We’re leading with a consumer argument”, Redfern added, “because the conversation about certi cations isn’t what you’re having when you’re buying food, necessarily.”
The redesign, which he described as “sophisticated and designer-led”, places it rmly in the ne food retail space. “We think the new design stands out, it’s evocative, it makes the brand feel younger.”
Customers can delve into the credentials as they desire, as Organico Realfoods is also using GS1 UK’s QR code labelling system, which will eventually replace linear barcodes on all food & drink sold in the UK. This allows access to information about the products’ credentials, from traceability and nutrition to recycling.
Organico Realfoods products are available via Cotswold Fayre, Hunt’s Food Group, CLF, with some items listed by Suma. organicorealfoods.com
WHAT’S TRENDING
1 All hail the snail There’s been a resurgence in French bistro-style food lately, with chefs leaning into the richer, sauce-laden dishes of Paris. Snails seem to be one ingredient gaining traction, but not with the classic combo of parsley and
WHAT’S NEW
Organic food producer Biona is now offering a Super Seed Bread that taps into the market for clean eating. Made with oats and a 30% blend of sunflower, flax and pumpkin seeds, the pre-sliced loaf doesn’t contain any wheat, yeast, sugar, preservatives or additives.
biona.co.uk
Italian producer Be Truffle is seeking more stockists for its 32 products, designed for versatility across a range of cuisines. Items include Black and White Truffle Olive Oil (RRP £6.85 and £7.70 respectively per 250ml, sold in cases of 24) Truffle Soy Sauce (RRP £15.30 per 250ml); Truffle Ponzu Sauce (RRP £16.20 per 250ml) and Truffle & Black Garlic Aioli (RRP £5.30 per 180g).
betruffle.com
Novice Kitchen, the producer behind Great Taste 3-star-winning Balinese Jam Sambal, is continuing its journey around the world of spicy condiments. It has introduced a Korean-inspired, crunchy Sichuan Chilli Oil (RRP £8, trade £3.60) and a Tropical Heat Hot Sauce, combining mango and pineapple with spicy scotch bonnet chillies. RRP £5.99, trade £3.20. thenovicekitchen.com
By Nick Baines
garlic butter. Tom Sellers’ Story Cellar in Covent Garden is serving a snail bolognese, while over in Canary Wharf, Roe is plating up a snail vindaloo. One of the main UK suppliers of snails is Dorset Snails, a family-run business that sells 10,000 a week to restaurants including Claude Bosi’s Brooklands and the Midland Grand Dining Room.
2 Savoury pastries
As we hit peak hyped bakery, the tables have started to shift in a more savoury direction. The Wall Street Journal has highlighted the rise in savoury bakes, attributing the shift to consumers eating less sugar.
At Notting Hill’s Layla, you’ll find puff pastry filled with caramelised shallot, girolles and chanterelles mushrooms.
Arôme is peddling asparagus truffle miso slices and Pain Suisse filled with confit tomatoes & nori seaweed. Meanwhile, East London stalwart Pophams created a cult favourite with its Marmite, Schlossberger, spring onion & sesame pastry.
3 Gut health sodas
Looking after your gut microbiome is a burgeoning wellness market trend. Innocent recently completed a round of funding for Xoxo, a probiotic sparkling fruit drink. Manchester’s Hip Pop, which entered the market with its line of kombuchas, has also pivoted to include gutpositive sodas. Meanwhile, Rapscallion, Fhirst, Olipop and Agua De Madre are also marketing in the name of gut health, creating a diversity of ‘good for you’ fizzy drinks.
WHAT’S NEW
On a recent trip, the team at Yoyo Laos Sauce discovered a new salted green pepper product which, after scooping a 3-star Great Taste award, it now has enough stock to supply retailers with. The unique pepper, it says, brings a fragrant, spicy, salty addition to any dish. RRP £5.95 per 40g. Trade, £3 in cases of 24. yoyolaosauce.co.uk
Miso Tasty’s new Miso Soup Paste makes for a nutritionally sound, expedient snack. It is both vegan and gluten-free, and it is said to be the first on the market to be sold in glass rather than plastic. RRP £2 per 150g, which makes 6-8 portions. mistotasty.com
My magic ingredient Ogleshield
STEPHEN FLEMING Owner, George & Joseph
This English gem, a raclette-style cheese from Somerset, often makes its way from my shop counter straight to my home kitchen, because it is so versatile. Known for its superb melting qualities, Ogleshield is a bit of a chameleon. It’s the perfect winter comfort food, but also shines in summer dishes like burgers or as a gooey addition to pasta.
Bold Bean Co.’s newly-launched Baked Beans are a gourmet take on the English breakfast staple. The Classic beans are prepared with tomatoes, tamarind and ACV; the Rich Tomato kind are more Mediterranean, with additions including oregano and virgin olive oil. The Smoky Chilli are seasoned with smoked paprika and chilli. RRP £3.50 per 325g jar. boldbeanco. com
What I love about it is its depth of flavour. While it has the rich, creamy melt you’d expect from a raclette, there’s more going on beneath the surface. It has a nutty, earthy flavour that pairs beautifully with a variety of foods. On a cheeseboard, it holds its own amongst more robust cheeses, but its true potential is unlocked when melted. It’s fantastic on grilled meats, stirred into a cheese sauce, or draped over roasted vegetables or spread on crusty bread straight from the oven.
For any home cook, Ogleshield is a cheese that offers both versatility and indulgence –transforming everyday dishes into something extraordinary. So, next time you’re at the cheese counter, grab a chunk.
The Happy Pear brings ‘eat more veg’ ethos to the UK with ambient lines
By Tanwen Dawn-Hiscox
Popular Irish plant-based food & drink brand The Happy Pear is entering the UK market with the introduction of cereal and vitamin drinks, and a view on adding fresh lines in a near future.
The rst three SKUs are granolas: Steve’s Dreamy Granola, with coconut & raspberry, is billed as ‘the low-sugar version of granola Nirvana’. Dave’s Cocoa Crunch blends oats with pu ed rice, sun ower seeds and cocoa; Cool Jim’s Granola has a mix of pumpkin and axseed, sultanas, goji berries, cashew nuts and desiccated coconut.
The range of 500ml VitaVibe drinks also come in three avours: Raspberry, Pink Grapefruit & Apple; Blood Orange, Mandarin & Ginger; and Apple, Elder ower & Lime. They are made with fruit extracts and sweetened with stevia.
specialist retail in Ireland. They have also set up online courses and have a considerable social media following for their health, wellness and nutritional content. This makes the launch into the UK particularly exciting, co-founder Dave Flynn told FFD, because it opens up the range to a wider, but already engaged audience.
“Our mission for 20 years has been to help people eat more veg. Nowadays, there are a lot more plant-based options, but not all of them use integral ingredients,” he said. Contrary to many ultra-processed foods, “you’ll recognise the name of all of our ingredients. There’s no nasties, no preservatives. And they’re not only high-quality products but they are tasty, because people aren’t going to make healthier choices unless they taste good.”
Known for its superb melting qualities, Ogleshield is a bit of a chameleon
The brainchild of twin brothers Stephen and Dave Flynn, The Happy Pear started as a fruit & veg shop in County Wicklow 20 years ago. They now have a regenerative organic farm, six cookbooks to their name and sell wide range of products – available in Supervalu, Centra and
The collection will be soon extended to include fresh products, such as Red Pepper Hummus, Sweet Beet Hummus, Sun-dried Tomato Pesto and Lovely Basil Pesto, and the hope is to introduce many of their 80-strong range of soups, pizzas and sauces to the UK at a later stage. thehappypear.ie
Mr Trotter’s Pork Crackling has been given a new look. The rind is triple-cooked to give it bite and crisp and seasoned with yeast and salt in the case of the Original flavour; and with English Mustard, Salt & Vinegar and Jalapeño for the other three variants. RRP, £2 per 50g bag, and £1.30 per 30g bag. The producer, who launched the brand back in 2011, has introduced a lighter version of the crackling called Pork Crunch. This is sold in packs of 25g (RRP £1.20) and 65g (RRP £2.30).
mrtrotters.com
Located in the Hertfordshire village of Ware, French & Day was started by its owners in the wake of other specialist shops closing down. Four years on, this deli is thriving – and very much a part of the local community.
By Claire Bullen
Herts and soul
FIRST THE LOCAL cheese shop closed down. Then the town’s wine shop went. What else was there to do but take matters into one’s own hands?
“You know how you get a bit nosey, and you just start looking on your phone for commercial properties?” says Tom French. “And then we found this place, and we had a look, and as soon as we walked in, bam! It was perfect.”
French and his husband Tom Day – the two have been together for 16 years, and married for eight – had long mused about opening a delicatessen or wine bar. They envisioned an all-day venue with easy elegance, similar to the tiny café-bars they admired during trips to Spain and France. “Everyone leans into that rustic farm shop thing, but we wanted Continental,” says Day. Their plans were largely speculative, a favourite topic of dinner table conversation.
VITAL STATISTICS
Location: 55 High Street, Ware SG12 9BA
Average basket: £15
Average margin: 35-40% retail, 65% hospitality
Annual takings: £225,000
Floor space: 50 sq m Products: 900
And they might have remained a perpetual daydream if the pandemic hadn’t arrived, taking several of Ware’s independent food businesses with it, and giving the couple the unexpected gi of time.
Before losing his job during the early months of the pandemic, Day had worked as an interior designer for shopping centres. French, meanwhile, was swi ly furloughed from his graphic design job.
“We just had that time to do what we wanted, and certainly for me, I really didn’t want to go back to doing 9-to-5,” says Day. “And Tom happened to turn around and say, ‘Well, why don’t you open the delicatessen?’”
A er borrowing money from the Government, pooling their savings, and receiving some additional funds from their parents, suddenly it was November 2020 and they were signing a lease, Day tells FFD,
still sounding surprised by the speed at which French & Day graduated from fantasy to reality.
The space they fell for is situated right on Ware’s high street. Ware – located just east of Hertford, on the River Lea – was once a Roman settlement, and was mentioned in the Domesday Book. Its history-saturated High Street is a special place, lined with listed Tudor buildings, most of which were once pubs or coaching inns. “[Ware] used to have the most amount of pubs per person in the UK – we’re one day’s ride from London,” says Day.
Their building, itself a former inn, is su used with centuries of character. Although it had previously been occupied by a bank that had le the place in “an absolute state,” there were genuine Tudor ceiling beams and an old hearth in the back room.
The two swi ly set about restoring the
space to its earlier glory, letting the heritage features shine through. They painted the front room a rich, handsome blue, installing a bar with cases for cheese and charcuterie. They added a row of bar seating facing the front windows, in keeping with the European theme.
Thanks to his background in interior design, Day understood the importance of creating a space that wouldn’t just be welcoming to customers, but which would transport them to an entirely di erent world.
“There’s something in a high street that you can’t get anywhere else. It’s that sense of place, it’s the people-watching, being in the community,” he says. “Where the high street has to move to beat online is it has to o er that service and that experience.
“Knowing that from my background, I knew that we had to make sure the place looked a certain way. We could have done it so much cheaper but I love that people walk in and say, ‘Oh my god, it looks amazing in here’.”
With help from Day’s father, the two completed a DIY build-out in a mad, sixweek sprint. The pace didn’t let up even a er they’d o cially opened their doors. “We opened ve days before Christmas, and it was the Christmas that Boris Johnson cancelled last-minute, so literally we opened the day they announced Tier 4,” says Day.
For a business just beginning to nd its feet, managing the surge of shoppers looking to stock up on Christmas comforts before lockdown was a logistical challenge. They sold out of cheese three times alone in the
lead-up to the holidays. “At that point, the guy that ran the other previous delicatessen came in, [saw the lack of cheese], and said, ‘That’s your rst problem,’” French says, laughing.
Since that fateful opening, French & Day has eased into itself. A er the Christmas rush, the couple turned their attention to renovating the deli’s back room, eventually out tting it with tables and chairs and lling the walls – and the old hearth –with a collection of more than 130 wines, as well as beers, spirits, and various cooking ingredients. Although they hadn’t envisioned constructing a separate seating area there, they’re glad they did. In setting aside a space for the community, that community came rushing right in.
It’s hard to pin down the typical French & Day customer. There are groups of friends, couples, teenagers on rst dates. Thirtysomethings who moved up from London to start families; pensioners who know exactly what they want out of the cheese counter. But there are also the solo visitors who bring a book to accompany their glass of wine.
“I think one of my favourite things is that you get the individuals coming in,” says French. “There’s something quite nice that they feel comfortable [here].”
But for all of its European ambiance, the business is still deeply invested in the local. The cheese and charcuterie are British-made, and the co ee comes from the Hat eld-based roaster, Sustain. The beer,
MUST-STOCKS
Rollagranola Awesome Almond
Fan Farm Dairy Baron Bigod
Minger cheese
Snowdonia Black Bomber cheddar
Cobble Lane Cured Fennel and Garlic Salami
Stanlake Park Pinot Noir Rosé
Tring Brewery Alchemist Lager
Savoursmiths Truffle & Rosemary Crisps
Sustain Coffee
Bacanas Chimichurri
Hertfordshire Honey
Hunt & Forage Seasonal Pies
Chef’s Table Sausage Rolls
Cakehead Cakes
Smoking Bishop
DELI OF THE MONTH
too, is exclusively Hertfordshire-sourced (apart from the non-alcoholic options), and even a fair portion of the wines are English or Welsh. Perhaps most remarkably, the burgeoning spirits selection features mostly Hertfordshire-made products.
It makes sense that the couple would be active in their local area, and not just because they’ve been proud Ware residents for 16 years. Day is on the town council, and the business has helped support Ware’s monthly market, a relatively new initiative. “It’s a market town, but we haven’t really had a good market in a long time,” says Day, noting that it’s also been a useful way to promote the deli, and to connect with new suppliers.
Things get particularly festive during the run-up to Christmas, when French & Day takes part in Ware’s Dickensian Evening: a pre-Christmas festival that’s been held for more than 30 years, and which draws many thousands of revellers. To mark the occasion,
French and Day dress in their 19th-century best, and sell one of the deli’s most popular products: Smoking Bishop, a mulled port.
Made from a recipe that’s mentioned in “A Christmas Carol,” Smoking Bishop takes two days to prepare, and features ingredients like caramelised citrus. “In one evening, we sold 240 cups of it,” says Day. “We literally make a Saturday’s takings on just that one product in one night. It’s crazy.”
Now, as they approach their fourth year in business – and with the rst stirrings of Christmas already around the corner – the two are in a re ective mood. It hasn’t always been easy. The cost-of-living crisis has hit their target demographic hard this year, and it’s been almost impossible to predict customer footfall or revenue month to month.
But for all the uncertainty, there are many signs of success. French & Day now has two full-time and four part-time members of sta . Largely in response to customer
requests, the business has gradually extended its opening hours, begun o ering prepared foods like sandwiches and pies, and started hosting wine tastings and Friday night events, with future supper clubs planned. Now, the pair can’t help but wonder if they’ve started to outgrow their space.
“Our new dinner conversation is, if we expanded, or if we moved to another location, what would we look for, and sizewise, what would we go for?” says Day.
But that’s a topic for a future daydream. Until then, the couple want to continue growing their local audience and doing their part to keep Ware’s high street thriving.
“The very nature of the shop is this is what we would want in the town, this is the business we would want to go to,” says Day. “So, you hope that if it’s something we would want to go to, other people would feel the same.”
frenchandday.co.uk
There’s something in a high street that you can’t get anywhere else.
artificial colours or eservatives. Please email tastees.info@gmail.com with any queries. All our products can now be purchased online: https://tastees.sumupstore.com/ Tastees_homemade
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Expert
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INSIGHT6 CX DIRECTOR
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RICHARD KNIGHT
EXPLORES HOW AND WHY YOU CAN PRIORITISE CUSTOMER
EXPERIENCE
Standing out in today’s competitive market requires more than a great product or service. It demands a strategy that places customer experience (CX) and service at the heart of your business. Businesses prioritising these will foster loyalty, drive satisfaction, and succeed tremendously. But how do you do that?
The rst thing is to de ne what CX actually is. In simple terms, it refers to a customer’s journey with your business. It includes every interaction, from the rst contact to post-purchase support.
CX has evolved over the years from being just about the product on o er. It now includes functional and emotional aspects. The latter has been ampli ed by the arrival of social media, which gives customers more power and in uence when visiting your business.
That’s why service, which creates positive memorable experiences, is so vital in retail. If a business prioritises getting the customer experience right then they will breed customer loyalty and repeat visits. What’s more, customers will be choosing your shop over others in an increasingly competitive market.
Good CX and service directly impact your bottom line. Happy customers spend more and are more likely to become repeat buyers. They also generate positive word-of-mouth, bringing in new customers.
MODEL RETAILING
This requires businesses to embed the right ideas into their management strategies and on the shop oor. Leadership buy-in is crucial for prioritising CX and service. When leaders and owners champion customer experience, it sets the tone for the entire organisation.
But creating a customer-centric culture in store is only half of it. Management will also need communicate the right behaviours and recognise good performace to keep employees motivated and delivering.
In order to be practically prepared to deliver and monitor CX, you must map the customer journey – to visualise every touchpoint and identify pain points where interaction could be
Good CX and service directly impact your bottom line.
better. Make sure you have a system to monitor customer feedback (surveys, reviews, direct comments in the shop) and analyse it as data, using so ware tools and monitoring metrics like customer satisfaction scores. Mystery shopping will also help to identify areas for improvement.
Once you know what to improve, a training program will upgrade service levels, while also boosting the motivation of sta .
Remember that all retailing is always open to continuous improvement. So even if you’re happy with the business’s performance, it’s always worth reviewing CX and service to boost revenue. insight6.com
Hello. Could I have some Brie de Moo? Oh and some chor-it-zo, too.
Some what, madam?
Setting up shop for good hygiene
Food safety when sampling in store
Retailers can and should offer customers samples of products to taste. This also shouldn’t present a food safety risk if managed properly. If you are offering a help-
Position the sample food where it is less likely to be accidentally contaminated
yourself tasting session, make sure that foods that require temperature control are not at ambient for more than 4 hours. You can do this by only putting small amounts out at a time. Position the food where it is less likely to be accidentally contaminated and ensure you use only single-use utensils such as cocktail sticks and disposable ice cream spoons. Remember, as with items for sale, that food provided free or as samples must feature a clear declaration of any allergens, eg via signage.
Fine Food’s Assured Code of Practice for Deli Retailing The guide is available in PDF format (free for Guild Members, £250+VAT for non-members). To request a copy of the Code,
This advice is an excerpt from the Guild of Fine Food’s Assured Code of Practice for Deli Retailing. The guide is available in PDF format (free for Guild Members, £250+VAT for nonmembers). To request a copy of the Code, email support@gff.co.uk
SOLVING EVERYDAY SHOPKEEPING DILEMMAS. IN MINIATURE.
Isn’t sourdough just bread that tastes a bit like vinegar? Give me a white loaf any day.
Give me strength!
Well, if you wanted something a little bit more special, I have this Champagne…
Give me the cheapest, sweetest one. I just love the bubbles!
FFD says: You’re always going to get customers that lack food & drink knowledge. Whether you encounter mispronunciation, misconception or just plain ignorance, it’s important to keep poker-faced. And once you’ve weathered the storm, you should take the opportunity to educate. It can be tricky, but if you find the right tone (explaining rather than patronising), the conversation could turn into an upselling opportunity.