FFD August 2011 by Guild of Fine Food

August 2011 · Vol 12 Issue 7

at the heart of speciality food and drink

FANCIER BREW? From afternoon pick-me-ups to hand-tied ‘flowers’, they’re all in our annual tea round-up HUNTERS OF HELMSLEY

“We took over just around the time the world was going mad”

CHRISTMAS CRACKERS

How they plan for a ding-dong December at Fortnums, Partridges and Harvey Nicks

‘GOLDEN FORK’ FINALISTS Who’s up for the big trophies in the Great Taste Awards?

INSIDE: CHOCOLATE THE LAVENDER KITCHEN PECKHAM’S COTSWOLD FOOD STORE PAUL CASTLE GIFT-WRAPPING

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opinion

in this issue

A recent email warmed our hearts here at the Guild of Fine Food. “I can’t thank you enough for organizing the Better Retailing course last week. It was completely f***ing marvellous!! It’s such a big leap of faith to organize staff cover and take a day off to come, but it will pay dividends.” The sentiments are encouraging, but the words “it was such a big leap… to organize staff cover” will strike the loudest chord with many small retail businesses. We hear it every week – retailers don’t have the time or can’t get the staff cover to allow them to get out of the shop. For smaller businesses – and the Guild is one of those too – it’s all down to getting our priorities right, which is rarely easy. On page 4 of this issue, several artisan food producers gripe about wholesalers who refuse to reveal which delis and farm shops stock their products. Producers believe retail sales would increase if they could visit their stockists to give those working behind the counter first-hand product knowledge. That’s a priority for the producer. Wholesalers also need sales to increase but they prefer to keep customer lists to themselves – that’s their lifeblood and route to survival. And that’s another priority. Wholesalers might argue retailers are the ones who should get out and meet producers and learn more about their trade, at speciality food exhibitions, networking days and business workshops like Better Retailing. But if retailers can’t get the staff cover… For all of us, survival is the first priority, particularly if we’ve got to work our bits off until we’re 75 so teachers, Brussels Eurocrats and Greek train drivers can retire on a final salary pension at 60. Back in the real world, survival appears only a distant prospect for 140 staff in Peckham’s 11 Scottish delicatessens (page 5). The struggling retailer has called in the administrators, who blamed the economic downturn for its woes and immediately closed three shops, each of which had suffered in recent years from Waitrose stores opening nearby. They’re attempting to find buyers for the rest. It’s fascinating that the Competition Commission took three years to decide there was little or no evidence that new supermarket openings precipitate the closure of small shops, when the rest of us can figure out the real truth in a matter of minutes. Why would Peckham’s fail when three new Waitrose stores didn’t? Same customers, same recession. I’m willing to bet my state pension against a fat-cat bonus that the suits from Bracknell painstakingly checked out every Peckham’s before they’d even planned a single new store. Their priority is to get out of the office and learn what’s going on. We must do the same – it’s a matter of priorities.

❝For small businesses, it’s all down to getting our priorities right, which is rarely easy”

Bob Farrand

fine food news

Wholesalers are forming a ‘barrier to communication’ between retailers and artisan producers p4

great taste awards

We report from the final judging at Olympia and reveal the nominations for 2011’s top trophies p18

focus on: christmas We ask top retailers how they plan for the festive season, take giftwrapping advice from Arona Khan and round up this year’s best new Christmas lines p27

product update: chocolate p39

product update: tea p45

regulars:

news deli of the month deli chef cheesewire shelf talk

4 15 21 23 49

EDITORIAL Editor: Mick Whitworth News editor: Patrick McGuigan Art director: Mark Windsor Editorial production: Richard Charnley Contributors: Menna Davies, Lynda Searby

Bob Farrand is publisher of Fine Food Digest and national director of the Guild of Fine Food

ADVERTISING Sales manager: Sally Coley Advertisement sales: Becky Stacey Circulation manager: Tortie Farrand Publisher & managing director: Bob Farrand Associate publisher & director: John Farrand

What they’re saying ❝I think the recession is only just starting to hit people’s pockets, but chocolate is a bit like lip-stick – it’s a small indulgence. People will continue to treat themselves to fine chocolate. It’s the ‘because I’m worth it’ idea.❞ Diana Short, Lick the Spoon – p39

THE GUILD OF FINE FOOD Membership secretary & director: Linda Farrand Administrators: Charlie Westcar, Julie Coates Accounts: Stephen Guppy, Denise Ballance

t: 01963 824464 Fax: 01963 824651 e: firstname.lastname@finefoodworld.co.uk w: www.finefoodworld.co.uk Published by: Great Taste Publications Ltd and The Guild of Fine Food Ltd. Fine Food Digest is published 10 times a year and is available on subscription for £40pa inclusive of post and packing. Printed by: Advent Colour, Hants © Great Taste Publications Ltd and The Guild of Fine Food Ltd 2011. Reproduction of whole or part of this magazine without the publisher’s prior permission is prohibited. The opinions expressed in articles and advertisements are not necessarily those of the editor or publisher. The publisher cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts, recipes, photographs or illustrations. Vol.11 Issue 1 · January-February 2010

fine food news Distributors are a ‘barrier to communication’ between artisan producers and stores

Wholesalers urged to let suppliers get closer to shops enough to let us talk to the retailers, we know that we could dramatically increase sales of our products. It needs Shops are missing out on product knowledge and advice us all to work together with some kind of agreement that could generate more sales because wholesalers won’t where accounts can be shared and plans can be made in let specialist producers speak direct to retail stockists. conjunction with each other.” That’s the warning from leading producers including Henschel stressed that Olives Et Al had Olives Et Al founder Giles Henschel and “no interest” in becoming its own distributor. Luscombe Organic Drinks managing director “That’s not my goal. I suppose one always has Gabriel David. to be careful about saying ‘never’, but I don’t They believe some wholesale distributors have a huge budget and I would rather spend are acting as a barrier to communication and the money on product development than on failing to pass on the back-stories behind a new racking up huge distribution costs.” generation of speciality products. Somerset’s The Bay Tree Food Co – a “The relationship could be so much more relative newcomer to wholesaling after fruitful,” Gabriel David told FFD. “Artisan starting out as a producer – is commended producers are much more than mere factories, by other small manufacturers for actively which is what most wholesaled products were Emma Macdonald: ‘It’s promoting products and providing channels 15 years ago. about time and effort’ of communication between shops and “Wholesalers have generally failed to producers. MD Emma Macdonald said she had seen an appreciate this new artisan supplier type and utilise its unique upturn in suppliers asking to work with her in the past year story and position.” because of this ethos. As an example, he pointed to wholesale catalogues that “Some have told me they’re never actually had a proper fail to distinguish between mainstream and speciality brands. meeting with their wholesaler, or might have one once a “Where they have underlined ‘artisan’ producers it’s purely year,” she said. “It's not entirely surprising. It's time and effort to gain extra margin, not to sell the benefit to the client. [for the wholesaler] and margins are tight.” “The truth is, nobody sells products better than the Traditionally, wholesalers have been reluctant to let producers themselves, but wholesalers are jealous of their producers speak directly to their customers because they are client lists in the first place. Ideally we would pass clients over worried the retailer might buy direct, particularly where they to wholesalers but they are not looked after to the standard are big enough to make direct delivery viable. we look after our own clients.” Macdonald said this concern was understandable. “But At Olives Et Al, Giles Henschel called for a change in the [as a wholesaler] you have to be confident you are doing a way producers and wholesalers share information about good job. Producers come to you because they can’t do it customers. “I know we could work with wholesalers [on themselves.” a way to achieve that]. Otherwise, it’s almost traditional She added: “The main reason we’re sensitive about pyramid selling: everyone puts their margin on, and no-one [direct contact] is the risk of mis-communication. We don’t knows anyone else in the chain. want producers to make promises they can’t deliver.” “If only we could get our wholesalers to trust us By PATRICK McGUIGAN and MICK WHITWORTH

Gabriel David: ‘Artisan producers are not just factories’

August 2011 · Vol.12 Issue 7

Giles Henschel: ‘We need wholesalers to trust us’

WHAT THEY’RE SAYING: “It would be very silly for us to poach customers from our own distributors. We want to help our distributors sell as much of our product as possible. If someone rings up and says they really like our product and want to do more with it, I have no problem ringing up the distributor to get a tasting pack sent out. You just need to talk to each other.” Rick Sheepshanks, Essfoods “Any right-minded wholesaler would want the producer to help them grow the business. This scarcity mentality – ‘There’s not enough business around so we have to hold onto what we’ve got and keep it secret’ – is bloody ridiculous. In my experience, it’s a minority of wholesalers who are like that. If producers are having those kinds of problems they should just find another wholesaler. It’s like complaining that your husband leaves the toilet seat up. Get a new one or get over it.” Rufus Carter, Patchwork Traditional Food Company “I want to be able to have free and easy communication with a wholesaler about what we’re doing and what our plans are, but I also need the flexibility to do a simple promotion late on a Thursday afternoon because we’re trying to mop up some sales at the end of the month. We get into enormous trouble when we do that. I can absolutely understand the reaction, but I wish there was a better way to have an open dialogue.” Giles Henschel, Olives Et Al “The old-fashioned wholesalers do a fantastic job of shifting boxes – in my former life as a retailer I used all of them regularly – but it’s a case of ticking sections on a spreadsheet with very little consultation on what the product is. There are new companies, like ourselves, who are doing it very differently, working with just a handful of producers as brand partners. Other wholesalers will represent between 300-500 different companies with thousands of different lines. You can’t possibly know all the products in that portfolio really well.” Simon Hurley, Pride of Place

shopfitting ‘Check your utilities contracts,’ warns deli owner facing £49k power bill By PATRICK McGUIGAN

The owner of Halsey’s Deli in Hertfordshire has warned other retailers to check the small print of their utility contracts as he fights a £49,000 electricity bill from British Gas. Damian Caldwell has been locked in a nightmare dispute with British Gas for three years, which he says makes it difficult for him to develop the business. “It’s like a constant black cloud hanging over us,” he said. The saga started when British Gas hit the deli with a £27,000 bill two years into a three-year contract, arguing that previous bills had been based on inaccurate

estimates. Caldwell has disputed the bill ever since, which meant he was unable to switch suppliers when the contract ran out and it was automatically rolled over. At the same time, prices were increased by 40%. “We were originally paying around £180 a month by direct debit, but British Gas says we are actually using £1,300 worth of electricity a month, which is crazy,” he said. “We’ve only got two display fridges, a few serveover counters and a coffee machine. It just isn’t right, but trying to get someone to listen is impossible. “I must have spoken to 15 people and spent well over 100 hours trying to sort this out and I haven’t got

anywhere. I’m still waiting for a letter from British Gas so I can complain to the Energy Ombudsman.” Caldwell urged other deli owners to closely check the terms of their utility contracts. “A lot of companies stipulate that you must give 90 or 120 days’ notice before the end of your contract if you want to switch suppliers, or else you are automatically rolled over into another two or three year deal,”he said. “They make it as difficult as possible to leave.”

Damian Caldwell says delis may have to give four months’ notice to end a power contract

inbrief

Peckhams stores up for sale as administrators move in By PATRICK McGUIGAN

The retail arm of the UK’s largest independent deli chain, Peckham's, went into administration last month, blaming tough trading conditions. Three of the company's 14 shops across Scotland have already been closed or sold, with the remaining 11 trading as normal while administrators look for a buyer. While the retail arm of Peckham’s – known as Peckham & Rye – has gone into administration, its cookery school, gift company and café businesses are unaffected. Corporate Advisory and restructuring specialist Zolfo Cooper were appointed joint administrators on July 14 and immediately made 31 of the company’s 170 staff redundant, with positions mainly going at the head office. Fraser Gray, a partner at Zolfo Cooper, said: “Unfortunately, the

business has experienced several financial pressures in recent months which have led to the point where administration was the only viable option remaining. “Regrettably, therefore, we have been left with no choice but to make initial redundancies. However these have been kept to a minimum to ensure the business remains viable for potential buyers.” A spokesman for Zolpho Cooper told FFD tough trading conditions caused by the economic downturn were to blame for the company’s problems. The retailer has also come under increased competition from Waitrose in recent years with the supermarket opening stores in the Newton Mearns and Byre Road areas of Glasgow and Morningside and Stockbridge areas of Edinburgh. Tellingly, the three Peckham's

stores that have been closed in Newton Mearns and Lenzie in Glasgow and Raeburn Place, Edinburgh, were all close to Waitrose stores. Zolpho Cooper’s administrators were said to be “reasonably optimistic” they would be able to sell the chain as a going concern. Gray added: “Peckham’s is an historic brand with a unique offering for consumers and we are confident we will receive significant interest from parties for the business.” Peckham’s was founded by Tony Johnston in 1982 and has branches in Aberdeen, Glasgow, Edinburgh and Prestwick Airport. In 2009 the company acquired four McLeish Brothers stores out of administration and last year began a refurbishment of its retail estate, starting with its recently opened outlet in Union Square Aberdeen.

Up for sale: Peckham’s store in Union Square, Aberdeen, is one of 11 now on the market

Waitrose plans to open 20 more of its Little Waitrose convenience stores within the M25 by the end of 2012. The move follows a trial of the new format at its Old Brompton Road shop in South Kensington, which opened in January. The Advertising Standards Authority has ruled that an Organic Trade Board advert suggesting organic farm animals were raised to higher welfare standards than conventionally farmed animals was misleading. The ad was part of an EU-funded three-year campaign promoting organic food and drink. Food packaging will have to list energy content as well as fat, saturated fat, carbohydrate, sugar, protein and salt levels under new labelling laws agreed by MEPs last month. Country of origin labelling will also be extended to fresh pork, lamb, poultry and goat meat. Food companies will have three years to adapt to most of the rules, but five years for the rules on nutrition values. The organiser of British Food Fortnight has urged independents to get involved with this year’s event, from September 17 to October 2, in order to test-run promotions ahead of the Olympics and the Diamond Jubilee. “2012 is going to be the most patriotic year of our lives and there are very real commercial gains to be made for independents who get their promotions right,” said Alexia Robinson. “British Food Fortnight is a great opportunity to trial tastings and promotions ahead of next year.” Vol.12 Issue 7 · August 2011

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news delicatessens

Newcomer says some delis sell ‘average food at inflated prices’ By PATRICK McGUIGAN

A new chain of delis specialising in top-of-the-range Italian food and drink launched last month with its first outlet in Kensington. Melograno Alimentari is headed up by Dino Joannides, a director at top-end butchers O’Sheas of Knightsbridge, and city high flier Robin Houldsworth. The business partners hope to open a further two or three outlets in the capital before extending to other major cities around the UK. The 550 sq ft shop stocks products sourced directly from small artisan producers, including Culatello di Zibello ham, Pastificio dei Campi pasta and 24-month aged Parmesan. Coffee is supplied by Square Mile and the shop stocks a wide range of Italian wines and craft beers. “A lot of Italian delis in the UK are now run by third or fourth generation family members who are selling average products at inflated prices,” said Joannides, who is half Italian. “The UK is a sophisticated market where people have travelled a lot and are passionate about food, so you can’t pull the wool over their eyes anymore. “There are exceptions that do a really good job, like Valvona & Crolla in Edinburgh, and you can find some good quality Italian products in the big food halls, but they have a limited range because of their pan-European focus. There’s definitely a market for a one-stop-shop selling top-of-the range Italian food.” Knowledgeable staff are important to the business. Several employees are taking MAs in Food Anthropology at the University of London’s School of Oriental and African Studies and others hold qualifications from the University of Gastronomic Sciences near Parma in Italy. The former head of Slow Food UK, Silvija Davidson, will also work in the shop from time to time.

BEST IN SHOW – First-time exhibitor Michael Lee Fine Cheeses (above) collected the Best Stand award at Harrogate Speciality Food Show at the end of June. The Yorkshire-based firm narrowly beat rival distributor Cheese Cellar to the award, which was based on visitors’ votes. Nearly 150 exhibitors took part in this year’s Harrogate show, which attracted strong visitor numbers despite weekend temperatures approaching 30°C. Paresh Tejura of Bradford’s Curry Cuisine, said: “I spoke to people from as far away as Dorset and Edinburgh – and they were decision-makers, not just browers.” In a prize draw for visitors, Laura Metcalf of Pooky & Grumps deli in Leeds won a bumper collection of products from the show in a hamper created by gift-wrapping expert Arona Khan.

delis in pubs

Village pub-deli to sell produce from local gardens

The Crown Deli is located behind Great Ouseburn’s pub

The latest pub to turn its hand to fine food retailing is The Crown Inn at Great Ouseburn near York, which has opened a deli selling the same locally sourced food that is used in its restaurant. The Crown Deli, which opened at the back of the pub last month, stocks meat, fish, cheese and seasonal fruit and vegetables from producers in North Yorkshire. The shop also offers bread that is freshly baked in-house, and a selection of wines. It joins a growing number of delis and farm shops that have been opened as a natural extension to pub restaurants, providing customers with further reasons to visit. The decline in village shops has also left a gap in the market for food retailers in many rural areas. As well as working with local farms and small producers, the owners of The Crown Inn, Liz and Paul Jackson, plan to sell produce grown by their customers. “Some of the fresh produce we use is actually sourced from right here in Great Ouseburn,” said Liz Jackson. “Many village residents and customers grow their own fruit and vegetables, and we are happy to buy any surplus from them to use in our restaurant. The supplier is even given a credit on the menu. “It would be great if we could expand the range of products we offer for sale as time goes on and support our community at the same time.” Vol.12 Issue 7 · August 2011

If I’d known news then what I know now… Frasers aim to get more Scottish online shops

Richard Chamberlain, Cotswold Food Store

There are two parts to running a retail business. The first is creating a fantastic shop that customers love. We’ve been really successful at that since we opened two years ago. The other part is making money out of it, and that’s something else altogether. It is bloody hard work selling food, making sure it’s spot on all the time and ensuring staff are doing the same. It’s not like running a clothes shop. There are always things to do in terms of merchandising, food coming in and out, food safety, record-keeping and cleaning. I love what I do, but you’ve no time to rest if you want to turn a profit. Before opening here I ran a small deli in Chipping Norton for five years, so I had a pretty decent understanding of retail. This is a much bigger operation –1,500 sq ft with a café, compared to my previous shop which was just 300 sq ft – but we got most things right in terms of layout and product range. We got off to a flyer, turning over £400,000 in our first year, but the second year has been tougher. The biggest strain came when my old deli closed. I’m

“As you expand there’s a danger you can spread yourself too thinly” actually the landlord, so in the end I decided to reopen it myself. With hindsight I wouldn’t do that again. Two shops meant more than double the work and customers wanted to see me behind the counter in both, but you just can’t be in two places at once. It also put a lot of pressure on cash flow. We traded there for about 12 months, but it was just too much to manage so we found new owners and sold it earlier this year. The past year has been tricky because of the recession. The café is growing but retail sales are flat. On top of that there was all the bad weather – we spent an entire month under two feet of snow. That also made me realise the importance of temperature control in a shop. We’re in a huge Cotswold stone building with high ceilings and poor insulation. It’s typically 12°C in winter and 20°C in the summer. Air-con is one obvious answer but it’s a huge capital investment that comes straight off the bottom line. The other big lesson I’ve learned is around staff. This part of the world is under-populated and demographically skewed to retirees. It’s also a very expensive place to live, so finding staff is a challenge. I’ve learned not to waste money on newspaper job ads. Cards in local shops are far more effective at getting the right people. Once you’ve got them, you need to hold onto them, so we reward them with things like a shop discount and free lunch. It encourages them to eat the food we sell so that they can talk knowledgeably to customers. Interview by PATRICK McGUIGAN

January 2006 · Vol.7 Issue 1

food into Highland larders Fraser Balgowan sells hampers and gifts online, as well as fresh food, wine and spirits

Wealthy locals and tourists in the Highlands are struggling to find good quality Scottish food and drink because delis and farm shops do not stock enough locally sourced products. That’s the view of a new online business for luxury Scottish food and drink, which says that much of the country’s best produce ends up being sent to top restaurants and retailers south of the border. Located in Newtonmore in the Cairngorms National Park, Fraser Balgowan has been set up by Fiona and Ewan Fraser to take advantage of this perceived gap in the market. “A vast amount of what shops are selling is not

Scottish,” said Fiona Fraser. “As a customer you assume that the food is Scottish, but we discovered that the Scottish products that were sold weren’t the best and a lot of the others weren’t local at all,” she said. “In terms of online retail there’s not a glut of companies flying the flag for Scotland.” The lack of top quality Scottish food in the Highlands was partly due to logistics challenges in the past, she added. “Historically, it has been hard to reach the Highlands, but as online shopping has grown the number of couriers transporting goods here has increased. Businesses in the Highlands aren’t taking advantage of the vast numbers of visitors and the amount they spend. Despite playing host to some of the world’s most wealthy and discerning, it is virtually impossible for people visiting this area to taste all the riches that Scotland has to offer.” As well as hampers and gift selections, Fraser Balgowan delivers fresh meat, seafood, cheese, wine and spirits. Its bespoke delivery service caters for dinner parties and special events. The company works with producers such as The Storehouse at Home, the Highland Chocolatier and Glenuig Smokehouse. www.fraserbalgowan.com

deli-restaurants

Lincoln restaurant adds deli to keep cash flowing The Old Bakery restaurant in Lincoln has dramatically reduced wastage and boosted turnover after opening a deli. Housed in a former reception area at the front of the premises, the deli section is introducing new customers to the restaurant and proving popular with Old Bakery regulars, said owner Alan Ritson. “It’s amazing how many people who come for dinner and buy a few things in the deli on the way out and we’ve had people come into the shop who then decide to book a table,” he said. Around 90% of the restaurant’s ingredients are sourced within a 25-mile radius, said Ritson, with the deli effectively used as an open storecupboard for the kitchen. “At the weekends the restaurant is always sold out, but during the week it’s quieter so it’s good to have something that helps keep us ticking over. We’re taking £200-£300 a day in the shop which is good for cashflow and helps reduce wastage because we can turn around what we don’t sell in the restaurant,” he said. “People are definitely eating out less across the country because of the economic climate so it’s good to be able to capitalise on two different parts of the food market with a deli and a restaurant. I

think we’ll see more businesses doing the same.” Head chef Ivano de Serio, who is Ritson’s son-in-law, runs regular cookery classes at the restaurant, which have also helped boost sales across the business. “We use many speciality ingredients and people who come to my cooking lessons, as well as diners, often have trouble finding them in normal supermarkets,” said de Serio.

Deli sales compensate for the restaurant’s midweek lull

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Hider Food Imports Ltd is a family-owned business which has been trading for nearly 50 years. During this time we have gained a reputation for supplying quality products which are delivered by our own fleet of vehicles. A dedicated telesales department is employed to support our external sales team in order to provide all customers with a rapid response to any specific requirements. Our best selling brands include Hazer Baba, Green & Black’s, Montezuma’s, Border Biscuits, Fudges Bakery, Belvoir Fruit Farm, Twinings, RJ’s Licorice, Mrs Crimble’s, Fentimans, Tyrells and many more. We produce seasonal brochures each year including our popular Christmas brochure which features a superb range of luxury gift food. Also available under our ‘Essence of Quality’ and ‘Sweet Shop’ brands are a wide range of pre-packed nuts, snacks, dried fruits, confectionery and good old fashioned traditional sweets. The recent launch of our ‘Hider Bakery’ label has been well received by customers, offering a delicious range of quality handmade fruit cakes. Please contact our sales team on 01482 504333 and ask for our latest product list which will hopefully give you a further idea of our full range of products. Hider Food Imports Ltd, Wiltshire Road, Hull, East Yorkshire HU4 6PA tel: 01482 561137 fax: 01482 565668 website: www.hiderfoods.co.uk email: sales@hiderfoods.co.uk Vol.12 Issue 7 · August 2011

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August 2011 · Vol.12 Issue 7

Letter from news Farrington’s

news

When cash is tight, shoppers want signage that makes it clear what they’ll be paying before they reach the till, says PAUL CASTLE I think the saying goes, “If you don’t believe the messenger you won’t believe the message”. In a retail context, this highlights the importance of telling your story well through good, strong, clear signage. At an evening team meeting we sent our people on a mission to walk the customer journey around the shop, challenging every sign, board and label. Twenty minutes later they returned with reams and reams of incorrect spellings, conflicting prices, different text sizes and fonts, all asking “How has this happened?” and “Why have we been walking past this every day?” That evening we decided the team would be much more vigilant, but also that we would start rewarding customers for highlighting any issues to us. So now if any shopper finds an incorrect spelling, a conflicting price or a product that fails to meet the right standard of quality we’ll thank them for their support with a free

“Our ‘listening group’ made it clear that during these tough times they're shopping on a budget’ tea or coffee voucher. They know we care, and their involvement is rewarded: ‘win win’. This week’s customer ‘listening group’ focused on how we could improve our price message, and the feedback is really challenging me. The group made it clear that during these tough times they’re shopping to a budget, and with weighed items like fruit and veg it’s hard for them to gauge how much they will be paying. We weren’t asked to go down the ‘priced pre-packs’ route, with the added packaging that entails, but to give a rough idea of how much, say, four medium carrots or two courgettes could cost. Where a price per bunch can be used, or an “each” price on items such as aubergines or jacket potatoes, then great. We have just tried this with some lovely fresh watermelons that were previously priced at 99p per kg and not really selling. Could you judge the weight of a watermelon? The scales on the shop floor for everyone to use just seem another complication for customers to “bother about” but as soon as we put up a sign saying “a medium-sized melon is approx £6” and cut some halves and quarters weighed and priced, we sold £200 worth in three days. We have decided to re-think the way we communicate price-by-weight items. Customers want to more easily predict how much they are going to be charged before they arrive at the till. And who knows, they may realise they have enough money left in their budget for a treat before they leave, rather than heading home possibly believing we are much more expensive than we truly are. • Paul Castle is business manager at Farrington’s Farm Shop near Bristol, named British Local Food Champion in the 2011 Countryside Alliance Awards

CHOPPERS FOR CHARITY : Helicopter pilots Tim Virdee and Peter Waldron (above) flew 806 miles around England on June 30 to collect Great Taste Award-winning foods from 25 specialist producers and help raise cash for Action Against Hunger’s Love Food, Give Food campaign. The flying marathon, staged in conjunction with the Guild of Fine Food, is one of the entries in this year’s Dawn to Dusk Challenge, an annual international flying competition founded in the 1960s by the Duke of Edinburgh. The two pilots visited producers as far apart as Devon, Sussex and Cheshire, including The African Biscuit Company in Dorset (left) to collect ingredients – all twostar or three-star gold winners in this year’s Great Taste Awards – that were later used to create an exclusive charity dinner for 30 invited guests. The pilots were also handed more than £500 in cash donations for Action Against Hunger from the producers they visited. The Dawn to Dusk Challenge was devised to test the abilities of pilots and their chosen “flying machines”. Pilots create their own challenges, and at the end of the flying season a winner is chosen by a panel of aviators under the presidency of the Duke of Edinburgh.

Petty, Wood team leads buy-in at natural foods specialist Tree of Life Leading organic and natural products wholesaler and distributor Tree of Life has been acquired from Dutch parent company Royal Wessanen nv after a management buy-in by several directors of Hampshire-based fine food distributor Petty, Wood. Petty, Wood CEO Mike Hogg also becomes the new chairman of Tree of Life and told FFD that the acquisition complements Petty, Wood’s activities perfectly. “Tree of Life has over 1,200 active retail customers, almost exclusively in the health and nutrition sector,” he said. “It is a stand-alone business that works with a large number of different producers but, in common with Petty, Wood, also markets its own brands.” According to Hogg, it is business as usual

for Tree of Life, apart from the appointment of Petty,Wood’s former chief operating officer, John Weaver, as the new managing director. Weaver’s remit is “to invest in the infrastructure and capability to deliver more new and relevant products to the health and nutrition sector”. Tree of Life’s range stretches from toiletries and household goods to vitamins and sports nutrition products as well as food and drink. It lists food brands including baby and toddler specialist Ella’s Kitchen, Doves Farm organic biscuits, Black Opal liquorice, Clipper organic hot chocolate, Booja Booja organic truffles and Gillian McKeith flax seeds. The company also distributes a number of products from Waitrose-owned Duchy Originals, including shortbreads and biscuits for cheese. www.treeoflifeuk.com Vol.12 Issue 7 · August 2011

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August 2011 路 Vol.12 Issue 7

news Think margin, not RRPs, delis are told By MICK WHITWORTH

Delis and farm shops have been urged to ignore suppliers’ recommended retail prices and focus on ensuring products meet their margin requirements. Speaking at the Guild of Fine Food’s first Better Retailing workshop, staged in Harrogate alongside the Harrogate Speciality Food Show, Dorset deli owner and former accountant Charlie Turnbull told an audience of current and prospective shop owners: “Never, ever pay any attention to RRPs. They’re a con, designed to make your supplier look more competitive. You need a margin based on your business model, not theirs. If the product is not meeting your margins, don’t stock it.” Turnbull said average gross margins in the deli sector were “surprisingly” on the increase, because many retailers realised they could no longer survive on a profiton-return of 25-30%. He said the industry as a whole needed to move towards average gross margins in the 35-40% bracket, and possibly higher. “Managing your margins is the most critical thing you will do, week in, week out,” he said. Turnbull joined Nottinghamshire farm shop owner

Georgie Mason to give delegates practical ideas for improving sales and profitability through better financial management, improved merchandising and more efficient working practices. Mason described techniques she uses at Gonalston Farm Shop to raise average basket sizes, such as altering the store layout to “force” customers to shop the entire store and creating promotional fixtures that could not easily be bypassed on the way to the tills. “You can significantly improve sales by ‘putting things in the way on purpose’,” she said. Everyday known-value items (KVIs) such as bread and milk, which often provide lower margins because they are in direct competition with supermarket products, should be sited at the rear of the shop, she suggested. KVIs were “very valuable in driving footfall” but it was essential customers could not just grab-and-go with these less profitable lines, she said. “To maximise spend, you need your customers to walk past everything.” Better Retailing was organised by the Guild to help retailers protect profits and move their businesses forward. It follows the launch in 2009 of the Guild’s Retail Ready course for aspiring deli owners.

Charlie Turnbull: ‘Never, ever pay any attention to RRPs – they are a con’

Edinburgh to host coffee masterclass The Guild of Fine Food has teamed up with Union Hand Roasted to offer another masterclass in improving the in-store coffee offer. The event, called 'Wake Up and Sell the Coffee', will be held at the Edinburgh Foodies Festival on August 12. Course content will range from understanding how good coffee is grown and processed to knowing the difference between beans from different countries of origin. A question-and-answer session with the founders of Union and a handson brewing session will complete the event. Tickets will also give participants access to the Foodies Festival. For more information on prices and availability contact: tortie.farrand@finefoodworld.co.uk

off-trade

Wine is a ‘serious commitment’ for Hampshire deli Delis need to manage wine like food, with seasonal variations and regular promotions, if they want to make the category work. That’s the advice of wine specialist Rachel Gibson, who has recently joined Thyme & Tides deli in Stockbridge, Hampshire, to help relaunch the shop’s licensed section. “A lot of delis don’t have confidence with wine,” she said. “They deal with one importer, get in what it recommends and hope for the best. But you need to approach wine in the same way as food. That means stocking seasonal wines and using different suppliers so you can take advantage of offers and new products.” The new wine range at Thyme & Tides totals around 90 lines from five suppliers with the average price of a bottle around £12. For the summer, the shop is stocking several different roses and sparkling

Rachel Gibson: ‘You need to approach wine like food’

wines, plus light whites, but these will be replaced by hearty reds and heavier whites for the winter, said Gibson. Regular tastings and food matching suggestions are also an important tactic at the shop. “Our customer base is quite young and they tend to like Italian and New World Wines rather than Claret and Burgundy, but it’s important to have a mix. You need wines people recognise, such as Cotes du Rhone and Pouilly Fumé, but also more unusual options.” Vin de Pays d’Oc made with viognier and

sauvignon blanc or a meaty red from Spain's littleknown Montsant region fall into this bracket. Iain Hemming, who owns the deli, said retailers must make a serious commitment if they want to make a success of wine. “There’s no point having eight bottles that you dust now and then. You have to make a statement to your customers with at least 75 wines. It ties up a lot of capital – we’ve probably invested £10,000 to £15,000 in our wine – but you have to do it properly for it to work.” Margins tend to be lower in wine – around 30-35% – compared to food, he added, but it’s a product that leads to add-on sales. “People come in for wine and leave with cheese, and vice versa,” said Hemming. “In our first month since launching the section we turned over around £7,500 of wine, so it is worth it.” www.thymeandtidesdeli.co.uk Vol.12 Issue 7 · August 2011

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August 2011 路 Vol.12 Issue 7

deli of the month

Interview by MICK WHITWORTH

Character building Chris and Christine Garnett: ‘You can see why we wanted this shop’

Lack of space is a constant challenge at Chris and Christine Garnett’s North Yorks deli but the shop’s quirkiness is also one its greatest assets

ne thing you’ll realise about this shop,” says Christine Garnett, disappearing up a folding wooden staircase into the attic above Hunters of Helmsley, “is that space is at a premium.” No kidding. This little upstairs-downstairs deli in North Yorkshire may not be the most productpacked you’ll ever see, but even on a Wednesday morning, with relatively few shoppers inside, there’s not much cat-swinging room. In high summer, Garnett tells me as she re-emerges from the attic storeroom-cum-office, the queue for freshly-made sandwiches in the groundfloor deli can block the staircase leading to the first-floor ambient goods area. That’s a clue to just how much product this seemingly quaint little shop shifts. While most small delis still have annual sales below £250,000, Hunters is producing just over £1 million a year from just 1,000 sq ft of floorspace. Sandwich sales alone approach £50,000. “I bet you’re shocked by that, aren’t you?” Garnett says, adding: “You can see why we wanted it.” Christine Garnett, a one-time Asda buyer, and her husband Chris, a chef, took over here three years ago, nearly a decade after they had first thought about setting up shop. The couple, both from farming families, had planning permission to open an outlet on their own farm but as tenants they didn’t want to invest in someone else’s property. Instead, in 2001 they acquired the freehold on a fish & chip shop in Horsforth, Leeds, and by the time they sold it in 2008 had accumulated enough capital to buy a retail business outright. “We were looking at delis and coffee shops,” says Christine, “but none of them were earning enough to pay us a living. Then I happened to be browsing

a business agent’s website and saw Hunters within a couple of hours of it coming on the market. We thought it was going to be too far to commute, but when we saw it we just fell in love with the property.” The couple paid £595,000 for Hunters, which had been established for 18 years and was already turning over £1m. “We took it over just about the time the world was going mad,” says Christine. “So we’re quite pleased we’ve managed to keep it around that figure.” By now we’re over the road in one of Helmsley’s many coffee shops and have been joined by Chris Garnett. We can’t sit down over coffee at Hunters for the obvious reason that it doesn’t have room for a café. Space is a constant topic of conversation – but also one the Garnetts know is pointless. “We really need a bigger shop,” says Chris, “but then we’d lose so much of the character.” Helmsley is a pretty market town on the edge of the North Yorkshire Moors National Park, and home of the Duncombe Park estate, the Garnett’s landlord. Hunters, in a Grade II listed building of honey-coloured stone, overlooks the medieval marketplace. Many are attracted here by the character shops, of which Hunters is just one. “My single biggest worry is that more independents might go out of business here,” Christine tells me. “In a market town you need everyone to be doing well. The little toy shop is closing down because of high rents, and that’s a tragedy. Tourists stop off here because they can see shops they won’t see on any other high street. If there’s nothing for people to stop for, we’ve had it.” Her husband agrees. “It’s worrying me now that there are so many coffee shops – 15 or 16 places Vol.12 Issue 7 · August 2011

Staff journalist/ assistant editor Wincanton, Somerset Full-time. Office-based. Salary negotiable. We’re looking for a full-time journalist to join editor Mick Whitworth on Fine Food Digest, the magazine of the UK’s thriving speciality food & drink sector. Our ideal candidate will be a strong writer with magazine or newspaper experience, preferably on the business side of things, and fussy enough about grammar, punctuation and design to share editing duties too. It’s unlikely this will be your first job in journalism but if you’ve recently qualified and think you can impress us then get in touch.

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You don’t have to be a foodie – but it helps. You will be writing about speciality food The Role

producers and the delis, farm shops and food halls that sell their products. If you love food & drink it’s a great way to get to the heart of this fantastic world, but you will also need an interest in small businesses and what makes them tick. You’ll also be averse to foodie clichés (tip: don’t use the word ‘passion’ in your application). In return we’re offering a salary that reflects your experience, a competitive benefits

package and a friendly, informal working environment in our West Country HQ. Your Background Fine Food Digest is published by the Guild of Fine Food, a trade association, publisher, training provider and organiser of events and awards schemes. The Guild is a small family business that punches above its weight: our Great Taste Awards scheme, for example, attracted over 7,000 product entries this year – up 20% on 2010. Find out more at www.finefoodworld.co.uk, where you can also browse back-issues of Fine Food Digest. If you’d like to apply, write to Mick Whitworth, enclosing your CV and a convincing selection of cuttings and explaining why you are right for this job. Closing date: August 12, 2011 Mick Whitworth, Editor, Fine Food Digest, Guild of Fine Food, Guild House, Station Road, Wincanton, Somerset BA9 9FE mick.whitworth@finefoodworld.co.uk

August 2011 · Vol.12 Issue 7

27 National Prizes Including Great Taste Awards 2009 Cox & Bramley - Triple Gold Star

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deli of the month – but Helmsley is losing some of its distinctive little independents. Ten or 12 new units are going into a converted stable block, and I just hope we don’t get more food shops – not because we’re worried about competition, but because we need more of those other niche outlets.” Hunters is not overly “niche”: it’s a volume business, with pricing to match, and the deli selection remains relatively conservative, although the couple took “a long, hard look” at the ambient range when they took over. “We haven’t changed the deli counter much because it’s so successful,” says Chris. “People still want nice rare beef sandwiches and home-cooked hams. We cook 20 hams a week and roast eight full topsides and six legs of pork – all with one oven and one ham boiler.” The cheese selection has been tweaked, he says, but remains mainly local and English – a little traditional for his taste, but it suits the market. After a fall-out with Rowcliffe, cheese now comes from the Cheese Cellar and Yorkshire’s Michael Lee. Olives have proved more problematic. “I tried Cheese Cellar’s olives and really liked them,” Chris says, “but unfortunately sales have dropped and I think that’s because they’re in brine, not oil. So we’re going over to Silver & Green.” If downstairs is dominated by the deli, where up to eight staff are sometimes shoehorned behind the counter, upstairs is all about ambient lines. Christine says she has updated ranges that had become “quite tired” before they took over. One of the shop’s key demographics is 25 to 35-year-olds who are knowledgeable about food and “don’t want anything kitschy or rosy”. Recent hits include Divine Deli’s non-food gift range. Its brie bakers flew out last winter, Christine says – and she has just managed to squeeze in a display unit for its Decorate! home baking range too. Also selling well are the shop’s own-label preserves, made by The Fruity Kitchen near York, whose other private-label clients include Weeton’s in Harrogate. “It’s important, not just that we have fabulous quality for our own label, but also that it’s not made in Devon,” says Christine. The Garnetts’ high rate of sale gives them advantages – they have little trouble reaching minimum order levels, for example – but then, products are priced to sell, not to sit on shelves. Chris says: “In today’s market people will pick up a jar of jam at £4.95 and think, ‘We can do without that’, whereas at £2.99 they’ll buy two.” With turnover static for three years, profitability could easily be eroded so Chris insists any cost increases are passed on. “Longley Farm yogurts put their prices up 20% and we put that straight on our selling price. We have a week or two of people saying, ‘This was 89p and now it’s 99p,’ but once you explain it has cost us an extra 20% – it’s not that we’ve had an extra holiday – they accept it.”

His wife adds: “Where we’ve increased volumes with suppliers, we’ve looked for better terms. That’s a bit of my Asda days coming through: I want a little bit more discount, or longer payment terms. It’s not always massive, just anything to help that bottom line. It’s about really keeping it tight.” Conveying this message to staff can be challenging when trade appears as brisk as ever. Christine says: “Our staff are brilliant, and we don’t pay anyone less than £8 an hour, but we haven’t increased that since we came here, except where they have taken on additional responsibilities. “They do tend to think it’s a foregone conclusion they should get a pay rise. And it’s difficult, because we know their own costs are going up and they work really hard. But we would rather keep everyone employed at a reasonable rate than start laying people off. “In the middle of winter we’re not exactly overrun with customers, so we’ve renegotiated terms & conditions so we can move people onto short-term working if we need to.” We’re having this discussion on June 29, the day after Thorntons announced it was closing around 180 high street stores and TJ Hughes went into administration, putting 6,000 retail jobs at risk. The Garnetts are aware there is an “underlying issue” about pay, but Christine says: “It’s about being part of the real world.” Much as the couple would love to add a café to move sales forward, it’s not going to happen. They are planning a partial refit next February and have asked the designer to look at ways to make better use of space – more in hope than expectation. Hunters runs against the design trend to “declutter” but Chris says no-one has ever complained about its sense of abundance. “You visit some delis where they’ve got clear wooden shelves with three lemon curds here and three jars of jam over there, and they look like they’re closing down.” One development, trialled in 2010, could add a new revenue stream: a pre-Christmas food concession in Fenwicks department store in York. Store director Neil Setterfield shopped at Hunters last summer and asked them to create a temporary food section for him from September to December. With little time for planning and no previous sales to go on, the Garnetts put in a tight range of hampers, biscuits, Hunters-branded chutneys and Divine Deli gifts. “We had no idea if we’d sell £10, £10,000 or 10p,” says Chris, “and Fenwicks couldn’t help us.” Last year was largely about the learning curve, but Chris and Christine Garnett hope it could be a stepping stone to a concession in Fenwicks, along the lines of Edinburgh deli Valvona & Crolla’s deal with House of Fraser in Scotland. With the Helmsley store creaking at the seams, it seems the only way for Hunters is not up, but out.

“In today’s market people will pick up a jar of jam at £4.95 and think, ‘We can do without that’, whereas at £2.99 they’ll buy two”

HUNTERS’ MUST-STOCKS ● ● ● ●

T racklements onion marmalade H enderson’s Relish H unters of Helmsley lemon curd E lizabeth Smedley lemon cheese

S orriso sun-dried tomatoes B rianna’s honey mustard dressing A rran smooth honey mustard C asa Rinaldi balsamic syrup W harfe Valley Yorkshire rapeseed oil B endicks Bittermints L ottie Shaw’s Yorkshire parkin ●T aylors of Harrogate Lazy Sunday coffee ●S loeMotion sloe gin ●Y orkshire Baker Yorkish pasty ●A mpleforth cider ●M rs Bell’s Yorkshire Blue ●R are roast beef ●T raditional cooked ham ●B rymor vanilla ice cream ●D ivine Deli roast garlic & parmesan bread dipper ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

www.huntersofhelmsley.com Vol.12 Issue 7 · August 2011

great taste awards

Revealed: the contenders for the ‘golden forks’ With the winners of this year’s Great Taste Awards gold stars finally chosen, judges gathered in London to decide which of the elite three-star winners should be nominated for this year’s top trophies A blue cheese from Carmarthenshire, a Tuscan roasted pork and an Orcadian dark ale are among 36 products nominated for a ‘golden fork’ – the trophy given for the top regional or national award-winners – in this year’s Great Taste Awards. The nominees were chosen during a final morning of judging at the Pillar Hall at London’s Olympia on June 23, before the 2011 Supreme Jury met in the afternoon to decide which products will be awarded a major trophy at the GTA awards dinner on September 5. Around 70 retail buyers, chefs and food writers re-tasted all 144 of this year’s three-

star gold winners to decide which should go forward for final judging. The shortlisted 36 foods were then tasted for the last time by a Supreme Jury comprising: Sunday Times Style columnist Lucas Hollweg, celebrity chef Antonio Carluccio, BBC Masterchef winner Drhuv Baker, TV chef and restaurateur Sophie Michell, food writer and historian Glynn Christian, rock star turned cheese-maker Alex James, Telegraph food writer Xanthe Clay, The Times Saturday Magazine food editor Tony Turnbull, Delicious editor Karen Barnes, deli owner Charlie Turnbull, farm shop owner Georgie Mason, Selfridges food director Ewen Venters, chef Brett Sutton, restaurant critic Charles Campion and Fortnum & Mason food trading director Simon Burdess. Judging was once again chaired by BBC Radio 2 food correspondent Nigel Barden Winners will be announced at the GTA awards presentation dinner at London’s Royal Garden Hotel on September 5. All this year’s one-star, two-star and three-star GTA winners can be found on the awards website: www.greattasteawards.co.uk

Sophie Michell, TV chef and food writer

Simon Burdess, trading director, Fortnum & Mason

January 2006 · Vol.7 Issue 1

Delicious editor Karen Barnes and Antonio Carluccio

Sarah Newitt, buyer for garden centres group Country Gardens

Dhruv Baker, 2010 Masterchef winner

Martin Orbach, organiser of Abergavenny Food Festival

Food writer and Master of Wine Sarah Jane Evans

upmarket snacks Jo Brady of Harrods

Nominations for the 2011 Great Taste Awards ‘golden forks’

Bill Knot, Financial Times How To Spend It

Best Speciality from Midlands & East Anglia Smoked gammon Hill Top Smokehouse Northfield Farm Jacob leg of lamb Northfield Farm Kirsch cherries Hotel Chocolat Welsh Wagyu Fat Alternative Meats

Food critic, writer and TV chef Charles Campion

Partridges buyer Jim Corfield

Tony Turnbull of The Times Saturday Magazine (right) with Ewan Venters of Selfridges

GTA chairman of judges and BBC Radio Nigel Barden Xanthe Clay of The Telegraph and Alex James, farmer and Blur bassist

Best Speciality from South West Duchy Originals dry cured back bacon Stem ginger ice cream Three Fennel organic herbal tea Newhouse Farm Blenheim orange apple juice

Denhay Farms Salcombe Dairy Pukka Herbs Two Trees Trading Co

Best Speciality from South East Honeycomb Crunch ice cream Sweet raspberry vinegar Barkham Blue Royal Merina

Simply Ice Cream Stratta Two Hoots Farmhouse Cheese Demarquette Fine Chocolates

Best Speciality from North Herdwick mutton Herdwick hogget Sicilian pistacchio ice cream Sour cherry & amaretto sorbet

Yew Tree Farm Heritage Meats Yew Tree Farm Heritage Meats Spurreli Beckleberrys

Best Speciality from Northern Ireland Corned beef McCartney’s of Moira Moyallon smoked, sweet cure bacon chop Hannan Meats Naturally spreadable butter Dale Farm/United Dairy Farmers Guinness oven wheaten bread Ann’s Pantry Best Speciality from Scotland Jaffys Mallaig kippers Venison medallions Dark Island Reserve Smoked salmon

J Lawrie & Sons Fletchers of Auchtermuchty Sinclair Breweries Uig Lodge Smoked Salmon

Best Speciality from Wales Dark Side of the Moose Beech smoked air dried ham Otley O Garden Boksburg Blue

Purple Moose Brewery Trealy Farm Charcuterie Otley Brewing Company Carmarthenshire Cheese Co

Best Speciality from Ireland Yeats Country organic full fat soft cheese SuperValu Supreme orange blossom honey - By Healy Honey Vanilla tablet Goats’ cheese Best Speciality Importer Roasted Nori seaweed vinegar by Tetsuya’s, Australia Wan Ling Tea House Hong Xin Te Chun Guan Yin Wang Porchetta arrosto produced by Cipressi Chianti, Italy Iberico ham Bellota Reserva Eiriz

Green Pastures (Donegal) Musgrave Retail Partners Ireland Mella’s Fudge Green Pastures (Donegal)

The Food Emporium Wan Ling Tea House Fine Italian Foods Jamones Eiriz Jabugo

Best Ambient Speciality Vanilla Tablet Royal Merina Sweet Raspberry Vinegar Kirsch cherries

Mella’s Fudge Demarquette Fine Chocolates Stratta Hotel Chocolat

Speciality Producer of the Year Quickes Traditional W & H Marriage & Sons C Lidgate Demarquette Fine Chocolates

Best First Time Entrant Alternative Meats Natures Path Organic Macintosh of Glendaveny The African Biscuit Co Vol.12 Issue 7 · August 2011

Einkorn & Heritage Flour

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Hand made Water Biscuit range from Stornoway, Isle of Lewis.

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Oak Smoked Paprika Salami Venison Bresaola

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August 2011 · Vol.12 Issue 7

delichef

putting deli ingredients to work

interview By PATRICK McGUIGAN

Russell Morris The Lavender Kitchen, The Walsingham Farms Shop at Heacham

n an age of public funding cuts, Walsingham Farms Shop in north Norfolk is a reminder of just how far a little seed money can go in helping British businesses. Set up in Little Walsingham in 2006 with a £200,000 grant from Defra’s Rural Enterprise Scheme, the first farm shop has since been joined by a restaurant and fish and chip shop in the same village, plus a second shop and café at Norfolk Lavender’s farm in nearby Heacham. Eleven farms on the Walsingham Estate supply the business with fresh produce including beef, pork and lamb, while products are also sourced from dozens of other local farmers and small producers. It’s the kind of sustainable food model that delights anti-supermarket campaigners, but is essentially a fairly straightforward approach that relies on each part of the chain working in the others’ interests. The Lavender Kitchen at the farm shop in Heacham is a prime example of this. Head chef Russell Morris is tasked with the responsibility of using up the less popular cuts of meat that the butchery counter struggles to sell, thereby reducing wastage for the business as a whole. “It’s quite easy for the

farm shop to sell steaks and chops, but they have problems selling forequarter meat. Some operations might put forequarter meat into mince, but we use it in dishes like braised rib of beef and marinated front end of brisket,” he says. It’s a similar story with the pork and lamb. Shoulder joints are used in dishes such as braised lamb in tomato garlic, rosemary & red wine and pork with apple & sage stew. “You need to cook these cuts for longer – typically three or four hours at a low temperature – but with slow cooking you get a wonderful depth of flavour and tenderness to the meat,” says Morris. Not only do these kinds of dishes help to use every part of the animal, they also encourage customers to buy less familiar cuts of meat themselves from the butchery counter. “I had a customer the other day asking me about the belly of pork I had on the menu. I gave him the recipe and he went off to buy some from the butcher’s. We help each other that way.” Opened last year, the Heacham farm shop and café is based at

Head chef Russell Morris is tasked with using the less popular cuts of meat from the butchery counter in order to reduce wastage

Lavender Beer Braised Beef Serves 20 Ingredients 5Kg chuck steak, cubed Salt and pepper Rapeseed oil Butter 5 large onions, thinly sliced 1 head of celery, sliced 1kg carrots, sliced

Thyme, bunch tied 8 bay leaves 1.8L Lavender Beer (Fox Brewery) 1.2L beef stock Method: Season the beef with salt and pepper. Heat oil and add a knob of butter to a large tray and brown the meat on all

sides. Remove from the pan and set aside. Add the onions to the pan and brown lightly, add the thyme, bay leaves and carrots and sauté for 10 minutes. Add the meat back to the pan including any juices that have come from the meat. Add the beer and the beef stock. Cover the

tray with foil and put into a preheated oven (160ºC) and cook for three hours until the meat is tender. Remove from the oven and strain the sauce. Allow the sauce to stand and skim off the fat. Correct seasoning and thicken if required. Serve with potatoes and vegetables.

Norfolk Lavender – a 100-acre lavender farm that is also home to the National Collection, with over 100 different varieties of the herb arranged in planted beds. Coach loads of keen horticulturalists provide a steady flow of customers at the farm shop, but it has also built up its own loyal regulars, says Morris, with 90-100 covers most lunchtimes. In total, the Lavender Kitchen seats 150 people and serves a daily changing menu of hearty specials, such as beef & mushroom stroganoff and crab salad alongside regulars such as soups, sandwiches, burgers made by the butchery and pies from the production kitchen at the original shop in Walsingham. Not surprisingly, lavender also crops up regularly on the menu in products such as scones, ice cream and beer from Fox Brewery. Other key suppliers include Mrs Temple’s Cheese (whose Binham Blue is used to make stuffed mushrooms), Crusty Loaf bakery and Pointen Brothers ice cream. But most of the food and ingredients used in the restaurant are sourced directly from the farm shop itself. The tasting plate, for example, comes with quiche and pork pie, which are both made at the central production kitchen. These are served with Mrs Temple’s cheese, homemade onion marmalade and locally grown salad and apples. “It’s basically a ploughman’s that is sourced from within the company,” says Morris. The benefit of buying ingredients and products internally is that prices are kept to a minimum in the café. No dish costs more than £10 with the vast majority at around £7-8. Keen pricing is helped by the fact that Morris only looks to make around 35% margin on dishes. “It might sound strange but we don’t have set target margins. The ethos is to keep prices down so we have a knock-on effect in the farm shop. People are more likely to eat in the café if the prices are competitive, but it means they are also more likely to buy in the farm shop. People who try the homemade chilli jam in one of our dishes invariably go next door and buy a jar from the shop. It means we get two sales and we all benefit.”

Recognised as the cornerstone of European cuisine! Deli chef is sponsored by Le Gruyère AOC

Vol.12 Issue 7 · August 2011

AOC, the sign of special products... A traditional cheese

The cheese of western Switzerland, with a delicate, distinguished flavour. Made since at least 1115 AD in and around the small town of Gruyères, today it is still produced by village cheese dairies in western Switzerland according to the traditional recipe. Le Gruyère AOC owes its characteristic delicacy and flavour to the top quality raw milk produced by cows fed on grass in the summer and hay in winter, coupled with the skill of the mastercheesemakers. No less than 400 litres of fresh milk are needed to produce a single wheel weighing around 35kg. During the slow maturation process, which takes several months in special cheese cellars, the wheels are turned regularly and rubbed down with saltywater. The maturing process lasts between five and 18 months.

Each cheese is systematically identified by the number of the mould and code of the cheese dairy. The day and month of production are also noted on the wheel. These black markings are made with casein, the cheese protein. No artificial additives are involved here either.

Le Gruyère AOC takes pride of place on any cheese platter. It makes for a delicious desert and can be used in tasty warm dishes. What’s more, no real fondue would be complete without genuine Gruyère AOC.

From this time on, the name ‘Gruyère AOC’ and the code of the production facility appears on the heel of each wheel of Gruyère AOC as an effective way of preventing fakes and guaranteeing authenticity. This technique employs branding irons, which give an indentation in the wheel. It is this marking that makes it possible to identify and trace each individual cheese.

The humidity and rind washing process develops the characteristic appearance of the cheese and assists in bringing the cheese into full maturity. This is what gives Le Gruyère AOC its famous, distinct flavour. It’s no great surprise that this authentic gift of nature is appreciated by cheeselovers throughout the world.

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2011 · Vol.12 Issue 7 22 AugustNaturally. Switzerland.

Cheeses from Switzerland. www.switzerland-cheese.com

cheese wire Rowcliffe’s new French range follows resurgence of British artisan cheeses

Offering tastings at Harrogate Speciality Food Show, Rowcliffe territory manager Bob Jamieson (left) said the wholesaler had taken 300 orders within a week of briefing its sales force about the French range. Typical products include the 9 to10-monthmatured cows’ milk Abondance Fermiér AOP (above), from the Thone dairy in the Haute Savoie, close to the Swiss border. By PATRICK McGUIGAN

Cheese wholesaler Rowcliffe says it has taken inspiration from the renaissance in British farmhouse cheeses to introduce a new range of 40 French varieties made by small artisan producers. The new selection comprises a large number of AOP (formerly AOC) products and cheeses from ‘fermier’ producers – small farms using their own raw milk. Thirty-eight of the new cheeses are unpasteurised and range from a 10-month aged Abondance Fermier to a Corsican ewe’s milk cheese called Saveurs du Maquis. The range has been developed over the past year with the help of Rowcliffe’s agent and affineurs in France. Sales director Steve Smith, who helped put together the new range, said: “We’ve seen a return to small producers in British cheese in recent years and something similar has been happening in France, so we decided to revisit all our French cheeses and find the best small dairies. “Customers are looking for greater provenance and authenticity so we wanted to offer cheeses that can be traced back to individual farms and

people in France, much as you can with Mrs AppIeby’s Cheshire here in the UK.” The new farmhouse cheeses are available in addition to Rowcliffe’s existing range of 600 French cheeses and put the wholesaler into competition with specialist distributors such as Premier Cheese, La Fromagerie and Paxton & Whitfield. However, Smith said the move was more about providing delis and farm shops with a point of difference. “In many ways we’re going back to our roots. Tony Rowcliffe started the company in 1967 by importing French cheeses from small producers,” he said. “This is isn’t about going into competition with other companies, it’s about giving independents products that are different to those in the supermarkets. The idea is that you can rotate the selection on a regular basis so there is always something new for customers.” Smith suggested an initial range might include a Chabichou du Poitou goats’ cheese, a Livarot washed rind, a Mothais Fermier goats’ cheese wrapped in a chestnut leaf, a Brebis du Lochois ewes’ milk cheese and a Tome des Bauges. www.rowcliffe.co.uk

le grand fromage BOB FARRAND A waitress in a local gastro-pub this week told me she had “no idea” what was on their West Country cheese board, but added helpfully: “I know there’s a cheddar and a blue one.” When Kirsty Young invites me onto Desert Island Discs, my luxury will be a nanny and a billy goat, a cheese-making kit and an instruction book. I might rabbit on about the stuff and eat a fair bit too, but when it comes to making it, I know nothing. But I’m a quick learner, particularly when survival’s at stake. Knowledge is the key to survival during recessionary times, which begs the question: ‘Why don’t more restaurants, delis and farm shops empower their staff with sufficient product knowledge to excite their customers?’ Maybe it’s part of our very British attitude to service. Shop and restaurant work is perceived by many as low-grade, even demeaning. In reality, this couldn’t be further from the truth. The satisfaction gained from introducing a customer to an unfamiliar cheese, raising excitement levels to the point of purchase and subsequently learning how much they and their friends enjoyed it is deeply, deeply rewarding. It transforms an inexperienced junior assistant without confidence into a star the moment they realize they hold the power to influence consumer choice. Last month, Mrs Cheese and I took a short

Almost every table ordered the cheese course – and how often do you see that? Mostly it’s ‘a panna cotta and the bill, please’. break at Rockliffe Hall hotel in the north-east, where Michelin starred chef Kenny Atkinson’s menu drips regionally sourced foods. Whitby crab, lamb from High Farm, Faceby, cheek of rare breed Neasham pork, confit of Goosnargh duck and Northumberland gooseberries would warm the cockles of any foodie’s heart. Almost as much as assistant maitre d’ Robert Green’s eloquently delivered guide around his cheese chariot. The board was packed with regional delights, some I’d not tasted, others that were firm favourites from around the UK. For a couple of hours I’d watched his chariot make its stately progress around the restaurant. Almost every table ordered the cheese course – and how often do you see that? Mostly it’s “a panna cotta and the bill, please”. Diners at Rockliffe Hall bought into it because of Robert’s knowledge and enthusiasm. It helped that his cheeses were pretty good too. Why would anyone not choose cheese? Sod the health freaks and vegans and those who tell you it’ll mess with your sinuses and your joints. Ditch the half-fat cheddar, cheese strings and bear-shapes made from re-pressed down-grade; we simply need to get everyone excited about proper cheese. That’ll sort the recession. • FFD publisher Bob Farrand is chairman of the UK Cheese Guild Vol.7 Issue 1 · January 2006

cheese wire Brock Hall narrows range in pursuit of perfection

Lyburn Farm sales cruising thanks to P&O contracts

Shropshire-based goats’ cheese producer Brock Hall Farm has streamlined its range to focus on two new unpasteurised washed rind cheeses and its popular Brockette logs. The two newcomers, which will be unveiled at the Ludlow Food Festival in September, are Goaterin, a smooth, creamy cheese modelled on the famous mountain cheese Vacherin, and Hampton Loade, which is a washed rind Gouda-style cheese, named after a historic cable ferry on the river Severn. The company will no longer make its Soft Fresh and Chelmarsh cheeses, Brock Hall’s Sarah Hampton aims to perfect Goaterin (left) and but will continue to Hampton Loade rather than spread her energies too thinly produce its lactic goats’ “It’s a really exciting part of the market at the cheese Brockette in discs and logs. moment and a trend that is here to stay,” said “The best cheese-makers focus on perfecting Hampton. “Ten years ago everyone wanted hard just a few cheeses, so I’ve decided to do territorials, but people’s palates are becoming the same,” said owner Sarah Hampton. “I’m more educated and British producers are now concentrating my energies on these three playing Continental producers at their own signature cheeses. You can spend too much time game.” trying to please too many people with different Brock Hall developed the new products after products.” quadrupling capacity with a new 500 sq ft dairy Several British washed rind cheeses have and new 500-litre and 250-litre vats. been launched in recent years, including Golden The farm’s herd of pedigree Saanen goats has Cenarth from Wales and the Reblochon-style also increased to around 70. Originally native to Baronett, made by new cheese company The the Saanen Valley in Switzerland and latterly to Old Cheese Room on the Neston Park Estate Holland, the Saanen is a pure bred white goat, in Wiltshire (FFD last month). Phil Hulland at slightly smaller and more compact than its British Lightwood Cheese in Worcestershire has also counterpart. been trialling a washed rind hard cheese made with stout. www.brockhallfarm.com

Contracts to supply cruise ships with Stoney Cross and Old Winchester helped Hampshire-based Lyburn Farm increase cheese sales by 22% last year. The company currently supplies seven P&O cruise liners, which operate out of Southampton, plus three Saga holiday vessels with its flagship cheeses. Old Winchester is a Parmesan-style cheese, which is matured for 16 months, while Stoney Cross is a mould-ripened variety similar to Tomme De Savoie. “We first met P&O at a City of Southampton business seminar organised by Hampshire Fare and it developed from there,” said Lyburn’s owner Mike Smales. “They were looking for more local suppliers for their ships’ restaurants and we fitted the bill.” The new contracts, plus increased orders from farm shops and delis, meant Lyburn reached capacity last year. The company managed to expand production by commissioning engineering company Barvick to weld several more inches of stainless steel to its vat. This increased capacity from 1,700 to 2,200 litres per batch, but Smales has also put in for planning permission to extend the dairy and take production up to 3,500 litres per day. Lyburn’s cheeses are made by head cheese-maker Paul Thomas using pasteurised milk from the farm’s herd of around 170 Holsteins. Smales set up the cheese-making business 10 years ago to add value to his milk because of the low prices paid by big dairy companies and supermarkets. “They steal your milk and stick it in bottles, but not before they’ve taken out most of the fat to sell as cream. What they pay you has no relationship with the price it costs to produce the milk and there’s no negotiating with the big dairy companies,” said Smales. The Tomme de Savoie-style Stoney Cross

Fairytale ending for ‘Cinderella’ cheese in SCA awards A Gouda-style cheese has been named the best British unpasteurised variety for 2011 by the Specialist Cheesemakers’ Association (SCA). Berwick Edge, made by Doddington Dairy in Northumberland, was one of 21 finalists nominated by fellow cheese-makers in the James Aldridge Memorial Trophy for 2011. It was crowned the winner by a panel of judges including Randolph Hodgson of Neal’s Yard Dairy, Tim Rowcliffe of Anthony Rowcliffe and Clare Cheney, secretary of the SCA, along with James Aldridge’s widow Pat Robinson. The trophy is named in honour of pioneering cheese-maker and affineur James Aldridge, who died in 2001. 24

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“It’s a particularly fitting award as James rang me many years ago out of the blue to give me some very valuable advice on my cheeses when I first started making them,” said Doddington MD Margaret-Ann Maxwell. “I am particularly delighted that Berwick Edge won as I often think of it as the Cinderella of our cheeses, because Doddington Cheese is much better known nationally. Now I can say this has definitely had its time in the limelight.” The cheese is aged for between 12-14 months and joins a long line of winners, including Saval, Innes Log, Sparkenhoe Red Leicester, Golden Cross Margaret-Ann Maxwell received valuable advice and Mrs Kirkham’s Lancashire. from the late James Aldridge and has now won the www.doddingtondairy.co.uk

prize named in his honour

A promotional feature for Anthony Rowcliffe & Son

Talking Cheese...

Making friends with goats Steve Smith sends a message from the hills of Marbella

he midday sun is beating down and I’m uncomfortably hot so I’ve taken refuge in the shade of fragrant bougainvilleas on a restaurant terrace perched in the hills above Marbella. It’s close to lunch time so I indulge in a glass of chilled Albarino and some Can Pujol goats’ milk cheese liberally spread on a large wedge of fresh, seedy granary bread. Besides thinking I’ve probably got the best job in the world, it also dawns on me how superbly soft fresh goats’ cheeses are in summer, when it’s warm, some of the time, anyway. It’s an obvious observation of course, because goats’ milk cheeses are, by nature more readily available in the summer. But it’s not just that, it’s the creamy soft texture of the cheese and that unmistakable fresh goatiness that deliver the characteristic lightness on the tongue and crisp, clean slightly tangy lemony finish that makes a perfect summer’s day even more perfect. Can Pujol is a cheese that deserves more recognition, not just because it looks so beautiful in the counter with its white fluffy flower shaped appearance but because the paste is so soft and the taste is so subtle. In the UK, I have long been a fan of Rosary goat in all its varieties, plain, herb or ash coated and have confidently introduced hundreds of consumers to goats’ milk cheeses such as those made by the Moodys, secure in the knowledge the delicate flavours will find favour with the most sensitive palate. Cerney goat cheese from Cirencester has won so many awards for its more robust, grown-up flavour and French style flaky texture and other, relatively new goats’ cheeses from the UK include Tor and Driftwood from Whitelake in Somerset also deliver very distinct flavours and are so rustic looking in the counter and on the cheese board. It would, however, be unthinkable to discuss goats' cheese without including the French, arguably the masters in this field with an endless variety of tastes and

textures. Poitou is the spiritual home of goats' cheese and recently, I’ve fallen in love again with St Maure, Selles sur Cher, Valencay and Pouligny St. Pierre (even the names evoke something special in the imagination) and we have selected cheeses from farms within the PDO designated area which are then fully ripened exclusively for us by the local affineur, Guillaumin. I’ll leave you with just two absolute gems, the Chabichou and the Mothais from Paul Georgelet. This family business started in 1973 with 8 employees (they have since added two more) and 584 brown spotted Alpine and pure white Saanen goats. The milk is carefully pumped directly from the milking parlour into small tanks in the adjacent cheese dairy so as not to damage the milk fats, and because it is still warm, it needs no extra heating. The Fresh Mothais is ripened on a chestnut leaf and is simply exquisite, with the lightest of textures and heavenly flavour. The cone shaped Chabichou has a flaky, firmer texture with more complex flavours and sublimely balanced finish. I realise it often takes time for some people to appreciate the qualities of goats’ cheese but please continue to be evangelical in the cause because they surely do not know what they are missing. And once you convert them, you have a friend for life.

01892 838999 www.rowcliffe.co.uk Vol.12 Issue 7 · August 2011

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Where Christmas runs like clockwork

Picture: Michaela Stejskalova/Dreamstime.com

For the likes of Harvey Nichols, Fortnum & Mason and Partridges, the Christmas planning process is a welloiled machine whose wheels never stop turning. LYNDA SEARBY persuaded some of the top buying brass at these retailers to reveal their precision planning secrets Simon Burdess, trading director, Fortnum & Mason “We have just held our ‘Christmas in July’ event, which is our way of communicating to the press our theme for this coming Christmas and presenting some of our products. Generally, journalists writing Christmas articles for long lead-time magazines start working on them now. We host this event every year at more or less the same time. “This year about 110 journalists came and had a glass of Champagne and some canapés while they wandered around the area laid out in line with our Christmas theme. They were given a goody bag with an advance copy of our Christmas catalogue – hopefully they’ll go away and write good things about us. “In terms of looking at what to stock, the Christmas process starts 12 months in advance. So as we’re trading during Christmas we’re gathering information through sales data, feedback from customers and staff, competitive shopping and buying trips, so we can start building up a picture of what we might do differently next year. “Immediately after Christmas we have a ‘post mortem’ – a day-long meeting about any issues. Then in February we have a range review when all the buyers report back with sales highlights and lowlights and range analysis, and then we put together a strategy of what they would like to do differently next Christmas. “In April buyers present their thoughts on NPD, and new ideas go through an approvals process. For example, last year the boxes for our Christmas puddings were a bit flimsy and ended up being handled quite a bit because customers couldn’t tell whether the puddings inside were in a plastic or a ceramic basin, so this year’s will be more substantial, with a window. “On an individual line basis the buyers have a view of what volumes to order. They start buying to an agreed forecast after budgets are finalised in July but if we don’t hit targets they cut back on that. We don’t buy most of our big lines in one hit – many are delivered on a weekly basis. “We give our suppliers forecasts of peak and agree on a quantity per delivery. In most cases suppliers will deliver to a schedule that enables us to change how much we buy depending on how we’re trading. Once we’ve made a commitment to a supplier, though, we honour that – we’re not like a big supermarket that sends goods back if they get it wrong. “Conversely, sometimes demand can rocket for certain products. For example, if Marcus Wareing writes in the Evening Standard that we’ve got the best pork pies, sales Vol.12 Issue 7 · August 2011

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christmas year before; we also sold the same hampers as we did the previous Christmas. We will keep it the same again this year – we won’t drop any hampers or add any. That goes for products as well, although we will put in an increase, mainly because we’ve got to take into account VAT. Our forecasts are for an overall increase of 5% on last year. “We commit around 85-90% to suppliers at the time of ordering. That gives us a bit to play with if we sell out because we don’t want products left after Christmas. It’s a gamble but if I can’t get one item when it sells out a week and a half before Christmas I can always get something else on shelf by the next morning. It helps that we are very flexible because we haven’t got a hierarchy or strict approvals processes - we can make decisions very quickly. “We don’t take off any regular products to accommodate Christmas lines; we just cut down displays so instead of having two facings we just have one – we’ve still got our regular customers to cater for.”

will go through the roof. To prepare for all eventualities, our pork pie supplier keeps a portion of the stock green – they keep it frozen until we need it baked. “Christmas hampers are huge for us. This year we will be packing 100,000 of them. This means we might need 7,000 units of certain products, which is a big stress on our supply base, particularly as we work with many artisan producers. We always try and maintain the same price points and number of units per hamper because people get used to that. Orders for hamper products are placed in July and that stock has to be delivered to our warehouse in October so we can start packing.” Jim Corfield, group buyer, Partridges “We start thinking about Christmas in February; we look at what we sold last year, at the plus points and minus points, and start from there. “We start placing orders around June or July. 75-80% of orders are based on what we did the previous year. New product lines represent between 15 and 20% of orders, and these tend to be new packaging formats rather than new product ideas. I think people like to stick with proven products so we’re fairly traditional in our product selection. “On the hampers side people buy to price points of £75, £150 and so on, as they set a certain amount of money aside. So last year we kept our price points the same as the

Christmas hampers are huge for us. This year we will be packing 100,000 of them.” Simon Burdess, trading director, Fortnum & Mason

Claire Mossford, grocery buying manager, Harvey Nichols “During and post Christmas we start to analyse our sales and from this data we begin to plan the following Christmas, hence this is a year-round process. We generally start to invite our current and new suppliers in to meet us from February. We calculate last year’s performance versus projecting next year’s performance by analysing sales week by week from September onwards. We also take into account extra factors, such as space availability, stock deliveries, in-store events, social media, PR coverage, the growth of the business and even the weather! “As we meet our suppliers early in the year, we are able to provide them with forecasted figures by March. We place confirmed orders by June, 60% of which are planned for delivery by the end of August/beginning of September. “With regards to Christmas hampers, we start planning in January, with a debrief. The range is usually confirmed by May and the hamper brochure is put together ready to be published in late August/early September. “We aim to change 80% of our seasonal range each year to ensure customers are always presented with a fresh array. We do repeat-purchase key, popular items but endeavour to offer a change in flavour, colour or size. “Our Christmas ‘pop-up shops’ provide additional space from which to sell seasonal products. In addition, the increasing popularity of online purchasing helps, as our online orders are fulfilled directly from our central stock allocation.”

Ex Fortnums executive Robert Marsham says he has to ‘miniaturise’ big company systems in his south London deli

Bringing big-store experience down to earth Having spent much of his career at Fortnum & Mason, Robert Marsham is one deli owner with the benefit of a large retailer perspective. At his south London store, MacFarlane’s in Clapham, Christmas starts 12 months ahead, much as it does at the major London foodhalls – but that’s 28

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where the similarities end. “Space and availability of cash are the two main areas that set small retailers apart from their larger counterparts,” says Marsham. “Small retailers are space-poor, and cash-flow is their lifeblood, so Christmas is based around spreading my spending to ensure I’ve got enough regular stock but am also ready for Christmas. “The bigger retailers have dedicated buyers – people who do nothing but plan, organise stock and look at

spreadsheets, look at areas that can be dedicated to storage of stock, pickand-pack and making up hampers, and so on. So all this can go on from late summer right up to Christmas. “I have to miniaturise that. With limited storage I physically don’t have the space to take in cases and cases of stock, so I have to try and persuade suppliers to hold stock for me to pull away on a weekly basis. One or two suppliers will play that game while others will say it’s a one-

hit deal. Take, for example, Stilton; it arrives on a pallet at the beginning of December. I have one large fridge and I have to keep enough space in that fridge for all that cheese. “The larger retailers start Christmas considerably earlier than we do. We don’t start until Halloween is out of the way. As we’re a local shop, customers don’t want to see Christmas products in August, which is when Selfridges and Harrods open their Christmas departments.”

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product update: christmas products l A packaging refresh for The Bay Tree Food Co’s Christmas condiments sees the range presented in standard jar, stacker jar and bottle formats featuring festive green foil blocking on the label. Christmas Pickle, Boxing Day Chutney and Christmas Marmalade all come in both standard jars (RRP £3.50) and stacker jars (RRP £4.99), while Christmas Syrup, a spicy rum & wine syrup for pouring over ice cream and yoghurt or for using as a mulled wine base, retails at £3.85 for a 300g bottle. www.thebaytree.co.uk

l Manor Chocolates, Demarquette’s new brand for delis and farm shops, launches in August and will include a seasonal assortment for Christmas 2011. The Special Festive Chocolate Ganache Collection has a sixmonth shelf life and comprises four flavours: spiced orange and ginger 70% dark chocolate ganache, and cinnamon and plain milk ganache using 39% milk chocolate.

l London Tea Company claims to have created ‘Christmas in a cup’ with its Christmas Winter Spice Tea, which blends aromas of cinnamon, cloves and nutmeg (RRP £4.95 for 40 bags).

l Thursday Cottage’s new Christmas gift pack (RRP £5.95) contains Seville orange marmalade with malt whisky, spiced cherry jam with cherry brandy and strawberry jam with Champagne, all in 112g jars. www.thursday-cottage.com

www.londontea.co.uk

l SLOEmotion, the York-based creator of products from sloes and damsons, has added to its range of liqueurs and condiments for Christmas with a cherry brandy, in 35cl and 70cl hip-flask shaped glass bottles (RRP £16.50/23.95), a damson chutney and a sloe & apple jelly. The jellies are available as single jars (£3.95) or as a gift set (£8.50). Another new Christmas gift set contains 5cl miniatures of sloe gin and damson gin in mini-hip-flask glass bottles (RRP £8.95). www.sloemotion.com

l El Olivo Olive Oil Co has created a gift box for its Oro De Bailen Spanish oil with the festive season in mind. The box contains a 500ml bottle of Oro de Bailen and the trade price is £9.50. www.elolivo-olive-oil.com

l Shropshire gingerbread maker Image on Food says its novelty gingerbread biscuits, which retail between £1.49 and £2.79, are ideal stocking fillers, gifts and counter-top sellers. Two new shapes – penguin and snowman – will be available from autumn, alongside Father Christmas and reindeer gingerbreads, through Hider Foods or Cotswold Fayre. www.imageonfood.co.uk

www.manorchocolates.co.uk

l By marketing its Fairtrade organic Grumpy Yule Christmas coffee in several new formats for 2011, Grumpy Mule says it is offering shoppers a choice of price points. The special edition blend is available ground in a 250g screw top tin (RRP £6.99) and in a 227g bag (RRP £3.75) as either ground or, for the first time, whole beans. It uses beans from East Africa, Indonesia and Latin America to create what is described as a brew with a ‘creamy body and chocolatey finish’. www.grumpymule.co.uk

l Jules and Sharpie is pitching its Hot Cranberry Jelly as a lively alternative to traditional cranberry sauce. The fiery jelly combines whole cranberries with scotch bonnet chilli, and retails at £3.99 for a 340g jar. www.julesandsharpie.com

l Celtic Marches has brought out a series of gift packs for brandy liqueur lovers, with RRPs ranging between £9.99 and £19.99. Each pack incorporates a gift – hip flasks, chocolates or shot glasses – and 6cl bottles of brandy liqueurs in varying combinations. www.celticmarches.com Vol.12 Issue 7 · August 2011

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product update: christmas products l Retailers in search of an artisanal supplier of mince pies might find what they’re looking for at The Bread Factory. The London bakery makes mince pies using mincemeat made from apple, sultanas, currants, glacé cherries, candied peels almonds, brandy, mixed spice, walnuts and whipping cream. Trade cost is £0.55 per 30g pie and £0.69 per 60g pie. www.breadltd.co.uk

l Nostalgic products always go down well at Christmas, and Walkers Nonsuch is hoping its retro-toffee packs, complete with hammer, will appeal to shoppers’ sentimental side. Its 200g Toffee Duo pack (RRP £2.50) combines Nutty Brazil and Original Creamy toffee, while its 400g Toffee Selection (RRP £3.99) features these two flavours along with Traditional Treacle and Luxury Fruit & Nut. In addition, the company has launched 400g toffee ‘slabs’ in Liquorice, Nutty Brazil, Treacle and Original flavours. www.walkers-nonsuch.co.uk

l Malmesbury Syrups’ mulling syrups have been repackaged in a dark glass bottle with a black label and a screw-cap and built-in pourer. The syrups, which blend aromas of ginger, cinnamon and spices to add a festive twist to wine and cider, retail at £4.99 for 250ml or £12.99 for a litre. www.malmesburysyrups.co.uk

l Tapping into the popularity of seasonal German baked goods, Bespoke Foods is now offering DIY kits for making a gingerbread man (225g) or house (650g). The gingerbread is made by the Pertzborn family who have been baking German gingerbread for generations. www.bespoke-foods.co.uk

l Little Rose Bakery has created four Christmas lines, which are available exclusively through Cotswold Fayre. These are: gingerbread biscuits – bags containing four biscuits with trees, stars and snowman shapes (RRP £1.70); candy canes – two biscuits in a cellophane bag with red ribbon (RRP £1.40); Christmas pudding biscuits – a chocolate biscuit base with iced topping and holly leaf detail (RRP £1.20); and a counter display unit containing 18 individually wrapped, Christmas themed biscuits (RRP £1.35). www.littlerosebakery.co.uk

l Add some bling to your Christmas display with Filippo Gemignani’s truffle products with edible 23 carat gold leaves. Available exclusively from importer GST Europe, the range is made in San Miniato, Tuscany, Italy from hand-picked Tuscan truffles. Honey with Truffle & Gold (125g), Butter with Truffle & Gold (80g) and Salt with Truffle & Gold (100g) retail at between £7 and £8 a jar. www.gsteurope.co.uk

l Christmas pudding fudge, a drinking fudge gift set and home fudge-making kits are three of the products to come out of the Fudge Kitchen this autumn. Christmas pudding fudge is a chocolate fudge made with mincemeat, decorated with edible holly leaf and berries, which comes in a three-piece box (RRP £10) or a nine mini-piece box (RRP £8). The Drinking Fudge Gift Set contains all six flavours of drinking fudge, a latte glass and a packet of marshmallows (RRP £15). The Home Kit retails at £30. www.fudgekitchen.co.uk

l Raisthorpe Manor Sloe Port claims to be the UK’s first sloe port. The 21.4% proof port is said to be an after-dinner drink with a difference, in which “the smoothness of the port cuts through the bitterness of the sloes”. www.raisthorpemanor.com

l For a change from the usual mulling syrups, try Blue Festive, based on blueberries grown on a family fruit farm on the Shropshire-Welsh border. One bottle (RRP £3.99-4.99) will mull up to three bottles of red wine or cider, or it can be stirred into apple or black grape juice for an alcohol-free warmer. www.bluesauces.com Vol.12 Issue 7 · August 2011

product focus focus on

christmas

product update: christmas products l Taking edible tree decorations upmarket is Chococo, with its milk chocolate bauble (trade price £1.98). Studded with chunks of honeycomb, the bauble is foil wrapped and presented in a tube with hanging ribbon loop. Chococo is also making Chocolate Crackle Christmas Trees (trade price £4.15/RRP £10.50) in milk and dark chocolate versions, decorated with edible glitter and with fizzing popping candy on the inside.

l From August, Made in Provence is stocking a chutney made with whole figs cooked with red wine, raisins and spices, and a new black truffle range, which includes black truffle infused organic olive oil and balsamic vinegar (available in 40ml and 200ml French swing top bottles) and acacia honey with black truffle shavings. www.madeinprovence.co.uk

www.chococo.co.uk

l Cottage Delight’s new enamel tealights – among nearly 80 new lines for Christmas 2011 – are described as “keepsake lanterns with a pretty snowflake design that will make a lovely gift for teachers, neighbours and friends at an affordable price point of RRP £8.50”. Two varieties are available at a trade price of £5.69. Sweet Tealight Delights contain mini globes of strawberry extra jam and thin cut orange marmalade, while Savoury Tealight Delights contain mini globes of caramelised onion chutney and spiced beetroot chutney. The company suggests retailers hang the lanterns from staircase hand-rails or from the shop’s own Christmas tree to enhance in-store displays. www.cottagedelight.co.uk

l Launched last Christmas on a small scale, Seggiano’s chestnut panettone is going on general sale this year. Baked by Fabiano Flamini in his bakery on Monte Amiata, southern Tuscany, it is a variation on the classic panettone, using candied chestnut pieces instead of candied fruit peel.

l Paxton & Whitfield’s cheese & wine sommelier set (RRP £35) is a gift set comprising a soft cheese knife and sommelier corkscrew made from fully forged steel and a riveted Pakka wood handle.

www.seggiano.co.uk

www.paxtonandwhitfield.co.uk

l The Organic Blending Company Flavour Collections are organic gift packs (RRP £9.99) designed to liven up all sorts of dishes from cheese on toast to Sunday roasts. The sprinkles, spices, marinades, gravies and stuffings are all manufactured in Scotland. www.scobie-junor.com

l You might not think there would be much demand for ice cream in the middle of winter, but when Marshfield Farm Ice Cream trialled clotted cream with brandy ice cream last year it sold out before Christmas had even arrived. This year, the festive flavour will be available in one-litre retail and four-litre catering tubs, and is said to be great with mince pies and Christmas pud. www.marshfieldicecream.co.uk

l Fosters Foods is hoping to capitalise on the patriotic mood created by the Royal Wedding with its new mini hampers, which are packed in rigid boxes with a union jack design, and range from £15-25. www.fosters-foods.co.uk

l Relish company Ramans is emphasising the association of cheese, wine and chutney with its miniature Cheese Collection (RRP £7.50) this Christmas. The selection gives consumers a taster of four relishes with suggestions for wine and cheese matches. Apple & carrot, for example, is said to be perfect with Emmental and Gruyère along with a glass of sauvignon blanc. www.ramans.co.uk

August 2011 · Vol.12 Issue 7

l Hawkshead Relish has packaged three of its festive preserves – Christmas Chutney, Michaelmas Relish and Boxing Day Chutney – in cellophane wrapping and raffia to give them gift appeal (RRP £5.75). www.hawksheadrelish.com

The Guidetti range of extra virgin olive oils is sourced from small but very reputable Italian producers, like this selection by LUIGI TEGA.

Handmade fusion of east and west Subtle flavours, great combinations Designed to tease, stretch & entice your palate 100% natural and versatile in use as marinade, dip or paste Miniature Cheese Selection and 2-Jar Gift Packs available

We particularly recommend our extra virgin oils made from single variety Italian olives (called ‘monocultivar’). They all are highly individual in character, and although cost a little more, they offer a superior standard of quality and impressive flavours. For more information, prices and conditions of sale please call 0207 6359800 email info@guidetti.co.uk or visit our new website www.guidetti.co.uk

Guidetti

La Collina Mancianti from Umbria from Umbria S9553_ChristmasSINCE Advert_A4_A5 29/06/2011 17:11 Page 1 Monocultivar Monocultivar 1989 Frantoio Moraiolo

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Raman’s Kitchen Ltd PO Box 793 York YO31 6BN Tel: 0845 5196230 Email: info@ramans.co.uk ramans.co.uk

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Vol.12 Issue 7 · August 2011

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August 2011 · Vol.12 Issue 7

Miller Park, Station Road, Wigton, Cumbria CA7 9BA Tel/Fax: 01697 345974 Email: claire@claireshandmade.co.uk

www.claireshandmade.co.uk

focus on

christmas products

Money bags A bit of merchandising magic can turn a £2 chocolate bar into a £4 festive pressie, says gift wrapping guru ARONA KHAN Chocs away With this gift-wrap, made from recycled cotton and satin ribbon costing less than 30p, you can dress up a bar of quality chocolate – or any other stock you want to shift – to create an upscale, eye-catching impulse buy, stocking filler or Secret Santa gift. It takes moments to do and is a quick and easy way to improve your margin.

Mug’s game Add a hot chocolate stick and some marshmallows to a mug, wrap it in cellophane, then increase the perceived value by decorating it with a fancy fabric bow. Use signage or a gift tag to suggest uses – including ‘Thank you Teacher’ at Christmas. Sprinkles Divine Deli’s meringue drops look like snowballs. Team them up with some colourful sprinkles and gorgeous glitter and your customer has the perfect Christmas present for a baking buddy. A silver plated candle holder retails at £3.50 and will help you push up profits further. This eye-catching set can be displayed on a brightly coloured box, wrapped in cellophane or packed in a hamper. Pickled! Attract attention with witty words. Pop assorted pickles and relishes into a jute bag, protected by shred or bubble wrap, and add a gift tag. ‘Pickled at Christmas!’ will convey the contents. Raffia and wired cord will keep the contents a secret while adding a contemporary finishing touch. It’s also a great way to move those last few endof-line products. Budget £1.20 for the bag, tag and decoration. Show-stopper Suggest customers give bottles of high quality oil or vinegar to foodie friends in place of the usual gift of wine, and increase the perceived value by adding a novelty bottle stopper. Keep costs low by using twine to attach it to the bottle.

Nougat nugget If single portions of nougat or other tasty morsels are slow to sell, pile them into a cellophane bag and add an eye-catching oversized bow. Use this wired cord and the whole decoration will cost you under 10p. Pair ’em up A non-budget-breaking 8p for cellophane and tissue paper is all it takes to transform a couple of jars of sauces, chutney or jam into a delicious gift. Use tissue paper that can sell through the year in case you don’t clear the shelves at Christmas.

Bottle banker Recycle corrugated card and twine to ensure eco-customers are filled with Christmas cheer. Also perfect for those keen on a contemporary look... and a simple way to make a slow seller seem more appealing. 42p will be well spent on a blackboard peg that adds the perfect finishing touch. Use a marker to add a message. Wrap bottles of oil and vinegar this way too.

l Gift wrapping expert Arona Khan, a regular presenter at Harrogate Speciality Food Show, helps retailers create a point of different and increase sales and margins through her DVDs and ‘Wrap With Me Online’ videos and UK-wide tutorials. She will be demonstrating on the WBC stand at September’s Speciality & Fine Food Fair www.aronakhan.com in London. Vol.12 Issue 7 · August 2011

Fruity or Spicy? Hand-made in the Garden of England www.thewoodenspoon.co.uk Tel: 01233 812 251

At Chocca Mocca we provide our favourite fruits with the freedom to express their more sophisticated side. Yes, we help them by smothering them in top-notch chocolate and carefully wrapping them in plush packaging, but it’s still the responsibility of our strawberries, raspberries, blueberries, blackcurrants and orange peel to deliver just the right hit of rich, tangy taste that makes all our chocolates so special. Introducing our new product within the Chocca Mocca Range: Drinking Chocolate in Tins. Whilst tea & coffee has always had the foresight to look its very best on shelf, hot chocolate has historically struggled to present itself in a suitably alluring fashion, choosing instead to skulk around at the back of the kitchen cupboard. Fortunately Chocca Mocca only deals in the finest rich chocolate drops, so simply was not prepared to have its mug-nificant offerings hidden away in underwhelming tins. Today Chocca Mocca’s Drinking Chocolate in Tins comes in both a deliciously dark and milk chocolate formats providing today’s well-heeled chocoholics with the very last word in lingering ‘inner warmth’ appreciation.

T: +44 (0)1628 520 927 E: enquiries@originalcandyco.com W: www.chocca-mocca.com 38

August 2011 · Vol.12 Issue 7

product update

chocolate

Raising the bar Last year we reported that top chocolatiers were concerned the speciality market was becoming flooded. But as MENNA DAVIES discovers, the sector has brushed aside concerns and launched a wealth of new premium bars and boxed chocs. l West Country-based Feeding Your Imagination has launched a new range of Fairtrade, organic chocolate bars. Named simply milk, dark and Secret, the bars have traditional packaging designs and are said to celebrate the era of the first solid eating chocolate, developed in Bristol back in 1847. The 85g bars will have an RRP of £2.29. www.feeding-your-imagination.co.uk

l Three new additions have been made to Amelia Rope’s range: Pale Lime & Sea Salt Edition 02, Pale Mandarin Edition 01 and Dark Ginger Edition 01. Products are stocked in Liberty, Selfridges and Whole Foods and are made with single origin chocolate, with flavours coming from organic aromatherapy oils. The minimum trade order is 50 bars (mixed flavours if required), and the 100g bars have an RRP of £5.69. www.ameliarope.com

l Belflair has launched four new 200g chocolate selection boxes: Signature milk; Signature dark; Signature Weird & Wonderful (which includes honey & fennel and lemongrass & coconut); and Signature single origin, with chocolate from Venezuela, Costa Rica, Peru, Ecuador and Uganda. RRP is £16.95. The company’s range, which includes bars, has also been rebranded. www.belflairchocolates.co.uk

A tough market for chocolatiers, but Short has it licked MENNA DAVIES hears how West of England producer Diana Short gambled on growth when other start-ups were quitting Today she counts Harvey Nichols and Liberty among her clients, but it took a leap of faith for former chef Diana Short to keep her fledging chocolate business going when others were giving up the ghost. Short launched Wiltshire’s Lick the Spoon in 2007 and ran the business from home until 18 months ago when she took on a small factory unit in Corsham. “It was at a time when a lot of small chocolatiers were quitting,” she says, “but for us it was either time to stop or to go bigger. “It was a huge leap in terms of our mental attitude. My husband Matthew quit his job as a software engineer to join me, and we went wholeheartedly into the chocolate business.” The gamble seems to have paid off and Lick the Spoon saw a 400% increase in turnover in the first 12 months of being at the new premises. It is now selling to independents nationwide, as well as to those bigname stores. “We had to make it work because we’ve invested time and money,” says Short. “We’ve grown through the recession and we’re still growing, but it has been tough. There have been

Diana Short: ‘Chocolate is like lipstick – it’s a small indulgence’ five price rises in chocolate since we started – cocoa has gone through the roof.” Lick the Spoon products are all made by hand by Short and her team of two and she wants it to stay that way. “We did a tastings at Liberty‘s chocolate room recently and the thing that made people really sit up was hearing that we make our chocolates by hand – people want that

connection with the producer.” Chatting to Short I discover how little I really know about chocolate and how it is made, and she admits she learned much along the way. “When I started out I used a quality Belgian chocolate but as I learned more I became sold on origin and varieties of beans. I work from a single estate couverture. I like to use different chocolate from different countries – for example Madagascan or Venezuelan chocolate works differently with different ingredients. It really is fascinating.” She also stresses that chocolate quality shouldn’t just be about percentages of cocoa solids. “Green & Blacks were the first to coin the use of percentages to indicate chocolate quality but really it’s just a starting point. The origin of the bean, the roasting process, the ratio of cocoa butter to powder, whether any other fats are added – all these things affect flavour.”

Lick the Spoon has also had to adapt its chocolate ranges for different retailers. Initially Short made only fresh chocolates with cream ganache, but she soon realised their shelf-life wasn’t long enough for delis and created the Little Indulgences range – which includes honeycomb and mint crisps. Keeping up-to-date with trends is important to remain competitive. “Things are quite retro at the moment – customers kept asking for rose and violet creams and I kept resisting, but once we actually did make them people loved them.” She is confident the market will continue to grow. “There has been an explosion of interest in fine chocolate in recent years. If you look at how much things have changed with wine over the past 20 years, everyone now can select on grape variety and country of origin. Hopefully chocolate is going the same way. “I really think the recession is only just starting to hit people’s pockets but chocolate is a bit like lipstick, it’s a small indulgence. “People will continue to treat themselves to fine chocolate - it’s the ‘because I’m worth it’ idea.” www.lickthespoon.co.uk Vol.12 Issue 7 · August 2011

product update l The Oban Chocolate Co has created a new range specifically for the wholesale market. The chocolates, handmade by two chocolatiers in the Scottish port of Oban, have a 12 week shelf life. Flavours include whisky & spice, peppermint creams and summer fruits. Finger boxes of eight chocolates have a trade price of £2.95 and an RRP of £4.95-£5.95. Trays of 12 are £4.75 to the trade, RRP £8.95-£9.95. www.obanchocolate.co.uk

chocolate l Chocolate greetings cards are a new line from Chocmotif. As well as the usual Christmas, Valentine’s and Mother’s Day designs, there are a further 36 titles, from ‘Happy 21st’ to ‘Get Well Soon’. RRP is £3.99. Personalised chocolate cards with the customer’s own image and text are also available. www.chocmotif.co.uk

l Roots & Wings has a new Autumn Leaf collection comprising pure bittersweet dark chocolate, Piperita peppermint dark chocolate and milk chocolate with aromatic Spanish orange oil. Products are made by artisans using cocoa originating from organically certified plantations. www.rootsandwingsorganic.com

l Scotland’s oldest chocolatier, J&A Fergusons, has added a new tangerine cream to its range of handmade chocolates. www.fergusonschocolates.com

l Liverpool-based The Chocolate Cellar has introduced two new products to its range. Midnight Road is a dark, gluten- and dairy-free version of Rocky Road, with cranberries, raisins, nuts and marshmallows, while Moo Bars are a fun combination of milk and white chocolate. www.thechocolatecellar.co.uk l Packaging a gourmet chocolate product to retail under £5 was the drive behind Davenport’s Chocolates’ new tube packaging. The tubes come in six different flavours, from the new Baharat Chilli Buttonettes to more traditional Gingers and Orangettes. There is also a new Floral collection featuring dark chocolate-covered fondants with infused flowers including fennel blossom, lavender and lemon flower. Tubes have a trade price of £35.40 for a case of 12 and an RRP of £4.95. The fondants come in boxes of 12 (trade price £65.40 for a case of 12) or 24 (trade price £57.90/case of 6) and have an RRP of £8.95 and £15.95 respectively. www.davenportschocolates.co.uk

l Online ‘boutique’ Chocolate and Love has relaunched its range of bars with new labelling. The 100g bars are 100% organic and made using cocoa from small, Fairtrade co-operatives in Peru and The Dominican Republic. www.chocolateandlove.com

l New products from Beschle Chocolatier Suisse, which picked up four awards at this year’s Academy of Chocolate Awards, include Bien-être et Santé à Açaí Criollo Maracaibo 88% – a very dark chocolate combined with Brazilian acai fruit, and Bonbolles with macadamia nuts, almonds, coffee beans or hazelnuts, coated with premium Grand Cru 65% chocolate. The bars have an RRP of £4.40 and the Bonbolles £10.10. www.beschlechocolatier.com

l Three new varieties have been added to Irish producer Butlers’ solid bar range: dark l Baruzzo specialises in hand-crafted Italian chocolate with crunchy mint pieces, milk chocolate with whole roasted hazelnuts and dark chocolates. Its newest collection features fresh chocolate with whole roasted almonds. The 100g bars have an RRP of £1.89. Butlers also basil ganache, lemon & mint, strawberries & has a new floral range including three chocolate ballotins (deep rectangular boxes with balsamic vinegar and pink peppercorn. www.baruzzo.co.uk chocolates packed in layers) in small (RRP £4.69), medium (RRP £6.99) and large (RRP £10.79) and a milk chocolate truffles tapered box (RRP £4.89). Butlers Chocolates are distributed in the UK by Creme d‘Or. www.cremedor.co.uk l Ubuntu Chocolate has added three raspberry-inspired flavours to its natural gift bars range – raspberry, raspberry & lemon, and raspberry & ginger. Trade price is £2.40, RRP £4.00. www.ubuntuchocolate.com

l Chocoroons are a new line from Lick the Spoon. Flavours include sea salt caramel, strawberry & elderflower, passion fruit caramel, Morello cherry & kirsch, cinnamon caramel, pistachio & pink grapefruit, www.lickthespoon.co.uk raspberry caramel and hazelnut praline. Each pack has an RRP of £19.95.

August 2011 · Vol.12 Issue 7

Winner of 33 Great taste & academy of chocolate aWards

“Chocolates from this artisan team consistently impress” Channel4Food “Seduces from first recipe to last” You Magazine

“Decadently festive in pretty multicoloured boxes” Daily Telegraph Unique ongoing & seasonal chocolate gifts with on-shelf appeal and attractive price points. All handmade in-house with fine origin chocolate and presented in our distinctive packaging. Plus, enhance your display with our new cookbook, published in both the UK & USA.

Order now for Halloween & Christmas Contact Chris for a price list: chris@chococo.co.uk | www.chococo.co.uk 01929 421777

Proudly handmade in Dorset

The School of Fine Food is a series of masterclasses and food experiences that will expand your product knowledge and improve your foodie credentials. Our industry experts will develop your understanding of each counter in your fine food store and help you to sell more.

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Learn more, understand more and sell more

You should know where the food and drink you sell comes from, how it’s made and who makes it.

Booking Guild of Fine Food members plus VAT per masterclass Non-members plus VAT per masterclass

Masterclasses Fish and shellfish October 19 Newlyn Market, Cornwall

Beer & Cider November 2 The Grain Barge, Bristol

Tea & Coffee November 8 Guild House, Wincanton

We start at dawn with a visit to the fish market. This is followed by a session on catching methods and sustainability. We’ll then look at responsible sourcing, seafood quality assessment, fish handling, preparation and display skills.

Come and join us for a microbrewery tour to see the brewing process. Talk to the experts and understand how to retail bottled beer and cider and educate your palate in both through comparative tastings.

Good coffee, prepared and served well, can make your shop or café famous locally, and both tea and coffee offer a back-story just as interesting as wine. We’ll talk you through varieties and countries of origin, give a ‘how to taste’ tutorial and demonstrate how you can make great-tasting tea and coffee.

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How to book You can book online at www.schooloffinefood.co.uk or contact Charlie Westcar on 01963 824464. www.schooloffinefood.co.uk The School of Fine Food has been developed with funding and support from South West Food & Drink

Product knowledge training for fine food retail Vol.12 Issue 7 · August 2011

www.asirifoods.co.uk Tel: 01684 572310

August 2011 路 Vol.12 Issue 7

product update

chocolate

l Kokonoir has added a new 53% dark chocolate with orange aromas and 33% milk chocolate with vanilla & roasted cocoa to its range of bars. Based at Broughton, near Chester, the company supplies within a 50-mile radius at the moment but is keen to find retailers further afield. 45g and 100g bars are available, with RRPs of £1.95 and £3.25 respectively.

l Two new chocolate boxes have been launched by Divine for the Christmas market. They feature two flavours of discs – dark chocolate with raspberry and dark chocolate with mint. The 100g boxes have an RRP of £4.50 and are available through wholesaler Premcrest.

www.kokonoir.com

www.divinechocolate.com

l Melange Chocolate has added three new flavours to its range of bars: dark 71% cardamom and clove, milk 36% mint and cumin and white matcha & strawberry. RRPs start at £5. www.themelange.com

l Inspired by a Great Taste Award in 2010, 24-year-old Sarah Bunton has launched a new range of filled chocolates and bars. Siocled Moethus Sarah Bunton Luxury Chocolates are hand-made in the heart of the Cambrian Mountains of mid Wales using Welsh cream. Flavours include strawberry & champagne, blueberry and raspberry. www.sarahbuntonchocolates.co.uk

l Milk chocolate with orange and milk chocolate with butterscotch are new from Nero & Bianco. Available in 100g bars (RRP £2.29) and 35g ( RRP 89p), the bars are Fairtrade and organic and come in distinctive, modern black and white packaging. www.neroandbianco.com

l Plush Chocolates has a new Fairtrade Belgian Collection that includes chocolate-enrobed pralines and filled chocolates with flavours such as tiramisu, strawberry, lemon, caramel and hazelnut. Available to the trade in cases of 12 x 170g boxes, they have an RRP of £7.99. Fabulous Fairtrade Flowers available in white chocolate with raspberry & rose and milk chocolate with strawberry & geranium are also new. RRP is £1.99. www.plushchocolates.co.uk

l Dog-lovers will be particularly interested in Sir Hans Sloane’s new pralines, which feature an image of a greyhound called Benson. Boxes of 25 pralines have an RRP of £30. www.sirhanssloane.com

l London-based Indian confectionery specialist Devnaa has made its signature truffles available in an individual stick box format. Each stick box contains six truffles and has an RRP of £4.99. Flavours include saffron caramel white chocolate, coconut & cardamom dark chocolate and Chai Masala milk chocolate. The trade price is £2.49 plus VAT. www.devnaa.com l Kallari dark chocolate made with Amazonian cacao is new from Chocofest. The 85% single estate organic chocolate bar (70g) is said to have red fruit and coffee notes. www.chocofest.org

l Brix has added a new smooth dark chocolate to its range of chocolates for matching with wine. There are now four varieties and a new Brix Collection gift set featuring all four in a ‘mini brick’. www. brixchocolate.com

l Somersetbased Rowan Artisan Chocolatier, which launched last year, has now added a number of new products to its range. These include a selection box of chocolates with fondant centres including honey & mead, orange, and cranberry & brandy. They are available in boxes of six, 12, 18, 24. The sixes have a trade price of £3.70 and RRP of £5.99-£6.99. www.rowanchocolatier.co.uk

l Charbonnel et Walker has given its range of chocolates and confectionery a new look. Chocolate selections are now presented in smart square boxes, edged in gold with the Charbonnel et Walker logo and Royal Warrant embossed in gold on to the lids. www.charbonnel.co.uk

Vol.12 Issue 7 · August 2011

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August 2011 路 Vol.121 Issue 11.07.18 Ceylon add_2.indd

Vol.12 Issue 7 路 August 2011 18/07/2011 16:28

product update

teas

Brews of the world

Want to know what’s making news in tea? MENNA DAVIES takes the lid off the caddy in search of a scoop l The TeaShed – one of our Editor’s Choice selections at Harrogate Speciality Food Show in June – is a new brand offering nine different teas, distinctively packaged in paper cups. The range of whole-leaf Sri Lankan teas includes Pick Me Up at 3, Northern Brew and Rosie Lee. The tea comes in pyramid nylon bags, 20 of which are packaged into each cup, which can be used several times before recycling. RRPs range from £3.50 to £4.50. The business has been set up by 23-year-old Jules Quinn from Stocksfield in Northumberland. It began life as part of her final year project at university and has already won her a Northumbria Business Viability Award. www.the-teashed.co.uk

l New products from Love Leaf Tea include two herbal infusions. Feel Well is made with aniseed, chamomile blossom & sage blossom, while Strawberry Breeze is made with strawberry & mint. Available in packs of 15 pouches, they have an RRP of £3.85. www.loveleaftea.com

l Speciality online business The Tea Experience is aiming to secure listings in delis, food halls and farm shops with its new range, Flowering Tea Blooms. Products are handmade to order in China using silver needle green tea. The leaves are sorted by size and made into miniature hand-sewn bouquets with the dried flowers at the centre. There are six tea blooms in the range: Dragon’s Eye, Flying Snow, Jasmine Arch, Jasmine Fairy, Red Amaranth and Sweet Osmanthus. Each bloom has a trade price of £1.10 (quantity discount available) with an RRP of £2, or £2.75-£3.75 when sold as a drink in cafés. Gift packs are also available.

l Dorset-based Wan Ling Tea House has launched three new lines:Tai Ping Hou Kui Green Tea, a green tea from the eastern Chinese province of AnHui; 999 Tie Guan Yin, an Oolong tea with “hints of orchid”; and Keemun black tea from AnHui “with notes that range from silky smooth malt to rich nuts”. RRPs range from £8-£15 with trade discounts of 20-50% subject to packaging and www.wanlingteahouse.com volumes. l Yellow Treasure and Snowy Flakes are new varieties from Choi Time. Yellow Treasure is described as a “delicious and complex green oolong tea naturally scented with osmanthus flowers”, while Snowy Flakes is a premium grade jasmine tea from the mountainous regions of Sichuan. RRPs range from £5-20. www.choitime.com

www.teaexperience.co.uk

l The Drury Tea & Coffee Company, which is celebrating its 75th anniversary, has launched a new range of 14 teas in nylon pyramid teabags. The range – which includes Assam, English Breakfast, Peppermint leaf and Imperial Earl Grey – is blended and packed in-house at Drury’s premises in south London and is the result of a six-figure investment in a new Fuso packaging machine from Japan. The teabags come in distinctive blue packaging, with Art Deco style illustrations. The packs each contain 15 teabags with RRPs from £3.50- £3.95. www.drurytea.com

l Dalgety Teas has launched a range of instant herbal teas in lemon, ginseng and ginseng & ginger. www.dalgetyherbalteas.com

l Bloom has launched a new collection called The 5-Step Tea Treatment Plan.There’s a breakfast tea to kick-start the metabolism; a morning tea for de-stressing; a lunchtime tea to aid digestion; an afternoon tea to restore concentration and an evening tea to aid relaxation. The teas are ordered by their caffeine strength, which progressively decreases from breakfast to lunch (black – green – white teas), spiking for afternoon fatigue (black tea), before the caffeine-free evening tea (Rooibos). A 10-day Tea Treatment Plan box set (5 packs) has an RRP of £20.00, with an £11.50 trade price. Retail packs have an RRP of £3.80 and £2.30 trade price, while whole leaf resealable pouches have a £12 RRP and £6 trade price. www.BloomTea.co.uk Vol.12 Issue 7 · August 2011

product update l Harp & Lyre Specially Selected Finest Quality Tippy Golden Leaf Tea is made from second flush Darjeeling tea for a “light to medium taste”. It is available as a loose tea or in biodegradable Soilon teabags packed in foil-lined, re-sealable stand-up pouches. The family-owned company says it is involved in every aspect of tea selection, from visiting tea estates to working with Master Tea Tasters to create its blends. RRPs start at £10.95 for 80g loose leaf teas. www.harpandlyre.co.uk

teas l Bellevue teas has launched new peppermint, white and Darjeeling teas. Each variety comes in staple-free teabags wrapped in individual envelopes in packs of 25. Trade prices start at £1.50 with an RRP of £2.50. www.bellevue-tea.co.uk l Trumpers Tea has teamed up with a small, family-owned estate in Malawi to launch a new Malawi Oolong Tea. Grown in the foothills of the Thyolo Mountains, it is hand-rolled to give the leaf its distinctive characteristics. Available in 30g caddies and 50g refill bags with trade prices of £5.60 and £7.20 and RRPs of £7.00 and £9.00 respectively. www.trumperstea.co.uk

l Previously only available as loose leaf, Pure Tea has now launched a range of eight organic teas and infusions in pyramid tea bags. Varieties include Darjeeling Tumsong First Flush, Assam Rembeng, Rooibush Vanilla and Wild Fruits. Available in boxes of 15 they have a trade price of £3.20 and RRP of £5.85. www.cupoftea.uk.com l Acai Berry Tea, White Tea with Pomegranate and Digestif are three new organic teas from Qi (pronounced chee). The company has also repackaged its three organic Fairtrade looseleaf teas. RRPs range from £1.79 to £2.09. www.qi-teas.com

l Only Natural Products, the company behind herbal tea brand Dr Stuart’s, has launched a new range called Higher Living. The range – organically certified by the Soil Association – comprises eight blends including Cinnamon & Ginger Kick, licorice, Very Berry and also three functional blends called Purity, Vitality and Evening. The company says its specialist production process ensures that all its teas are “clean, pure and bright, not dark, bitter or dusty”. London agency B&B has also created a vibrant and quirky pack design for the range. Teas are available in packs of 15 string-and-tag envelopes and have an RRP of £1.99. www.higherlivingherbs.com

l We Are Tea has made its most popular blends – including Earl Grey Supreme and Moroccan Mint – available in wholeleaf teabag cartons. The company, which earned 22 Great Taste Awards in 2009 and 2010, says this is in response to customer feedback. Cartons contain 15 teabags and have an RRP of £3.95.

l A new Safari range of loose leaf tea in tins, including Earl Grey and Ceylon, has been launched by Newby Teas. These “modern, striking” caddies are designed for the deli market, says Newby. Each contains 125g of tea, RRP £5.99. www.newbyteas.com

www.wearetea.com

l Steenbergs Organic has a new range of single estate teas from China, Japan and Sri Lanka available in black caddies. It includes Organic Earl Grey Tea with Cornflowers and Organic English Breakfast Tea. Organic Matcha Tea is also new. Grown in Japan, it is highly regarded for its health properties and is said to have been a traditional drink for Japanese Zen Buddhist monks for hundreds of years. The 125g caddies have an RRP of £5.85 and the 30g Matcha Tea tins an RRP of £16.75. www.steenbergs.co.uk l New from Chateau Rouge is the Teas of the World loose-leaf range, packed in limited batches each season and packaged in eye-catching cartons. The range, also available in gift packs, includes Wild Harvest Honeybush, Jasmine Downy Pearls and Wiedow Long Cut Rooibos. Chateau Rouge says it specialises in single estate, speciality leaf teas that are sustainably produced and sold in the most environmentally friendly way. www.chateaurouge.co.uk 46

August 2011 · Vol.12 Issue 7

l Dragonfly Organic has rebranded its range aiming for an “eye-catching” new look. The brightly coloured tear-strip packets can be displayed on their broad or narrow face according to shelf space. There are 14 different teas in the organic range, including green, black, infusions and naturally caffeine-free. The tea comes in biodegradable sachets (packets of 20 or 25) with string and tag. www.dragonflyteas.com l Mortier’s single estate Ceylon tea is now available in caddies and boxes. The tea is imported directly from Sri Lankan plantations and the range includes Natural Earl Grey, Breakfast Tea, Afternoon Tea, Organic Black Tea, Organic Green Tea and loose leaf Connoisseur’s Choice. A new selection of gift hampers will also be available for Christmas 2012. The range is available in loose leaf, 125g and 100g, with an RRP of from £3.95, and in tea bags with RRPs from £2.85. www.mortierstea.com

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August 2011 路 Vol.12 Issue 7

EDITE CR

shelftalk

Looking for suppliers accredited by the Guild of Fine Food? Follow the logo

S U P LI E P

products, packaging & promotions

Potential for rapeseed oils still huge, says Mr Hugh’s By MENNA DAVIES

EDITE CR

Despite claims by some premium producers that the UK is already overloaded with rapeseed oil brands, newcomer Larchwood Foods insists the market still has huge potential. Larchwood has been set up as a separate company by Norfolk farm operator Morris Mason, owned by Hugh Mason, which has been growing rapeseed as a commodity for 25 years. Mason has invested in on-farm facilities to press and bottle oil from its 1,000 acres of rape. It will be launching its new products, branded Mr Hugh’s, at September’s Speciality & Fine Food Fair but says supermarkets are its biggest target. Fiona Coe, sales and marketing director, says the company researched the market thoroughly before investing heavily in product development and facilities. “Yes, it is a competitive market but it’s still very young – we see a big opportunity,” she told FFD. “There are metres and metres of olive oils on supermarket shelves but still only a few rapeseed oil brands.”

S U P LI E P

Coe says the need for consumer education about the health benefits of rapeseed oil is a greater challenge than competition. Two different oils form the basis of the new range: Mr Hugh’s extra virgin cold pressed rapeseed oil and Mr Hugh’s Gourmet, a single variety oil with a “unique nutritional profile and distinctive light taste”. Both will be available as consumer products and in a professional range aimed at caterers. The company has capacity to produce 1.5 million 500ml bottles of oil each year, says Coe. “A lot of our competitors are doing it on a small scale. Our plant is big – it’s pretty serious what we’re doing and we’re getting a fantastic response.” While Larchwood has its eyes set firmly on multiples it also wants to reach independents, although prices look set to be significantly higher where a distributor is involved. The regular and gourmet oils are expected to sell at £2.99 and £4.99 in supermarkets but nearer £4.49 and £6.49 in independents. www.larchwoodfoods.co.uk

product news from Guild accredited suppliers

•London-based Crispy Snacks has launched a new range of fat- and salt-free fruit and vegetable crisps. Crunchy Apple Crisps, Crunchy Carrot Crisps, Crunchy Tomato Crisps and Crunchy Beetroot Crisps are available in 20g packs. The vac-packed dried snacks are free from additives or added sugar, and each packet contains less than 1% fat. The fruit and vegetables are said to retain almost all their nutritional value because of the speed with which they are dehydrated. www.crispysnacks.co.uk •Wicklein produces German Lebkuchen (gingerbread-style cookies) as well as a range of traditional and more contemporary Christmas specialities. Based in Nuremberg, it combines spices, nuts and chocolate to create its range of treats. This year, as well as Lebkuchen in musical gift tins and decorative boxes, Bespoke Foods is distributing new products from Wicklein including chocolate covered orange (200g), Zimtsterne cinnamon stars (175g), a Lebkuchen Selection Pack (200g or 600g) and Stollen Star Bites (200g). www.bespoke-foods.co.uk •Aberdeenshire shortbread maker Dean’s has launched a range of shortbread and oat biscuit snack bags. The Mini Bites Range has four varieties: traditional shortbread, chocolate chip shortbread, original oat biscuits and coconut oat biscuits.The 80g bags have an RRP of £1.09 and are designed for eating as a snack or an impulse treat. The company says the new lines can be merchandised on the traditional biscuit aisle as well as in impulse locations. www.deans.co.uk

•Five new products have been added to the Agnes Rose range of infused oils and vinegars, bringing the total to 13 varieties. Produced by Naomi Darbishire in small batches, each is infused for a minimum of four days. New products include damson honey cider vinegar and strawberry balsamic with Cumbrian honey. The company has won a number of awards from Food Northwest. All 13 varieties are available in 100ml and 250ml bottles. www.agnesrose.co.uk •Minter’s Fine Foods has launched two new sauces for the barbecue: Peri Peri and Hickory Barbecue.The Hickory variant joins a range of barbecue sauces that already includes Texas Rib, Honey and Hot & Fiery. All can also be packed under retailers’ own labels. The Peri Peri is supplied in packs of 12 x 284g, with a trade price of £16.80 and the Hickory Barbecue sauce in 12 x 400g pack sizes with a £19.68 trade price. www.mintersfinefoods.co.uk •The Dormen Food Co has come up with a “new concept in snacking” with a range based on pulses rather than potato or wheat. Two varieties have been launched, badged as The Dormen Savouries: Indian korma, comprising lentil squares seasoned with cinnamon, coriander and cumin, and Mediterranean tomato & herb, made from yellow peas seasoned with onion, paprika and garlic. They are packed in sharing and single bags, with RRPs of £1.79 and 65p respectively. www.thedormenfoodcompany.com •Berry Good has launched a raspberry gin to join its blackcurrant gin and fruit-infused vodka range: Straight Strawberry, Really Raspberry and Strawberry & Black Pepper. They are available from Gordon & Macphail, which distributes throughout the UK. Both gins are in 10cl and 50cl bottles. www.berry-good.co.uk

Nougats with rare honey Italy’s Scaldaferro has launched a new range of limited edition nougats prepared with rare honeys. The Venetian company will be making its new range using medlar honey from Sicily, salted cape cordgrass honey from Venice lagoon, rosemary honey from Southern Italy, pistachio & coriander honey, and orange blossom honey & Sechuan pepper. Ingredients are cooked for 12 hours, resulting in “a unique crumbly amber-coloured ‘mandorlato’”. Products are distributed by Redorwhite and have an RRP of £6.50. www.redorwhite.co.uk

Olympian newcomer Olea House says it has launched the first premium extra virgin olive oil from the Greek region of Olympia. Produced by Heraklis Papadopoulos Estate using Koroneiki olives, it is said to have a golden-green colour, fresh and grassy aroma and “clean, fruity, addictive taste”. It is available in three bottle sizes: 250ml (RRP £10.50), 500ml (RRP £19.99, and 1 litre (RRP £38). It is also available in 5 litre containers for selling on-tap in delis. www.oleahouse.com Vol.12 Issue 7 August 2011

classified

BAKING EQUIPMENT BOILERS BOTTLES & JARS BUSINESSES FOR SALE CLOT EXHIBITION EQUIPMENT FOOD PROCESSING EQUIPMENT HYGIENE PROD PACKAGING PHOTOGRAPHY RECRUITMENT REFRIGERATION SECURITY SHO WANTED WEB DESIGN BAKING EQUIPMENT BOILERS BOTTLES & JARS BUSIN EPOS TECHNOLOGY EXHIBITION EQUIPMENT FOOD PROCESSING EQUIPME • baking equipment

Do you make PIES or other sorts of pastry products? We make incredibly versatile PIE MACHINES VISIT www.johnhuntbolton.co.uk TO SEE OUR RANGE OF MACHINES, PLUS VIDEO CLIPS OF THE MACHINES IN OPERATION OR CALL + 44 (0) 1204 521831 / 532798 OR FAX + 44 (0) 1204 527306 OR EMAIL spencer@johnhuntbolton.co.uk

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August 2011 · Vol.12 Issue 7

Ring us on: 01628 668836 or visit us at: QuickLabel.co.uk

CLOTHING COLD TRANSPORT DESIGN CONSULTANTS EPOS TECHNOLOGY PRODUCTS INGREDIENTS INSURANCE LABEL SUPPLIERS LEGAL SERVICES SHOPFITTING TICKETING TRAINING LEASING Call & ourDESIGN sales teamSUNDRIES on 01963 824464 today to discuss the rightVEHICLE classified heading BUSINESSES FOR SALE CLOTHING COLD TRANSPORT DESIGN CONSULTANTS , ingredients or services for your equipment UIPMENT HYGIENE PRODUCTS INGREDIENTS INSURANCE LABEL SUPPLIERS • labelling

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Training dates for the Charcuterie & UK Cheese Guild Charcuterie dates for 2011 Date Mon Sept 26

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Cheese dates for 2011 Date Tues Sept 27 Tues Oct 4 Mon 17 Oct Wed 19 Oct Tues 25 Oct

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For more information:

E-mail: linda.farrand@finefoodworld.co.uk Tel: 01963 824464 www.finefoodworld.co.uk

*NB. Unfortunately we have had to introduce a £10 plus VAT (@ 20%) surcharge for London training dates due to higher venue costs. Avilton foods

Vol.12 Issue 7 · August 2011

JOIN US for the most glittering

evening in the fine food calendar as we discover the foods that struck GOLD in the GREAT TASTE AWARDS 2011 Don’t miss the Great Taste Awards Presentation Dinner Monday September 5 – Royal Garden Hotel, Kensington, London Join us in the company of leading chefs, food writers, top retailers and the very best food producers for fine food’s biggest night of the year. Two golden opportunities in a single evening. Firstly, after walking the red carpet into the Palace Suite, be part of the pre-dinner reception, enjoy an early evening drink as you taste 3-star Gold award winning products from the 2011 Great Taste Awards and meet the people who made them.

Next, join us for a sumptuous four course meal specially created by Royal Garden Hotel chef, Steve Munkley using Great Taste Award-winning foods and matched with wines specially selected by the Guild of Fine Food to complement the stunning gold-standard ingredients. In between courses, the story of this year’s Awards will unfold as BBC Radio 2’s Nigel Barden along with Guild director, Bob Farrand announce the top winners including, for the first time, the winner of the Delicatessen of the Year.

Tension will mount as you watch the judging unfold on the big screen, until the moment when members of the supreme jury make their final choice for Great Taste Awards Supreme Champion 2011. The choice is yours. Join us just for the early evening reception or make a cracking night of it in the company of the great and the good of fine food.

Book your seat today but hurry, places are limited To book contact Charlie Westcar on 01963 824464 or email charlie.westcar@finefoodworld.co.uk Pre-dinner reception £15 inc VAT Pre-dinner reception plus dinner – Guild members: £90 inc VAT. Non-members: £95 inc VAT August 2011 · Vol.12 Issue 7