FFD August13 by Guild of Fine Food

DELI OF THE MONTH 48

JULIE CHEYNEY 16

IAN SAMWAYS 13

A taste of Persia in Peckham with Sally Butcher at Persepolis

Talking terroir with this year’s Aldridge trophy-winning cheese-maker

“When fuel gets to £1.50, which it has brushed, that will be the tipping point” August 2013 · Vol 14 Issue 7

brews of THE world Refresh your drinks offer with our guide to new speciality teas CHEF’S SELECTION 44 Neil Coiley of Agaric in Ashburton chooses Devon Blue cheese, Marriage’s organic malted brown flour and Pimenton de la Vera

CHRISTMAS STOCKING 25 Our annual round-up of festive products and gift ideas

NEWS CHEESEWIRE CHARCUTERIE TEA RETAIL DESIGN SHELF TALK

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What’s new this month:

Opinion

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www.foyers.biz

must clamp down on retailers like Starbucks, Caffé Nero, Amazon and iTunes. Starbucks generated £400m of UK sales last year but avoided BOB FARRAND any corporation tax by paying a fat licence fee to a Dutch sister company. Twitter fuelled a consumer backlash that eventually We’re told the only two certainties forced it to cough up but since in life are death and taxes. For town when was paying tax a matter of centre retailers, inflated business choice? Amazon’s 2011 UK sales rates and eye-wateringly high rents of £3.35bn resulted in a tear-jerking are pretty certain too. £1.8m tax loss. High street business rates have The Times recently quoted David increased 13% in three years yet we Mattin, strategist at Trendwatching. still pay separately to get our rubbish com, as claiming consumers are taken away. Town centres stagnate moving away from big brands and under squillions of charity shops embracing independents “more and Poundland stores yet greedy aligned with their expectations and landlords still seek inflationary rent concerns [over increases. If this is paying fair taxes]”. the way to beat Regardless of EU Not before recession, it beats regulations, David time, although me. Cameron must clamp this shift in favour It’s also lost down on retailers of independents on distributor Ian hasn’t gone Samways (see p13) like Starbucks and unnoticed at Tesco. who tells us high Amazon The company street rents are owns 49% of high street coffee “stifling the industry”. Sainsbury’s chain Harris & Hoole, where each Justin King and Morrison’s Dalton shop is cleverly designed to create Philips might agree, as the two chief the comfortable image of a small, executives joined forces recently privately owned business. As clever, to demand a new tax on internet perhaps, as the schemes designed traders to remedy the “massive to save Tesco £130m in tax last year. disadvantage” high street retailers I’ve a cunning plan for Mr suffer in comparison with webCameron. Any business avoiding based businesses. corporation tax by shifting revenue Clearly, a bricks-and-mortar into overseas subsidiaries should pay store is more costly to run than 10% tax on their total UK turnover. an internet shop serviced from a It’s British money paid by British single distribution centre, but would consumers for goods and services a new tax resolve any injustice enjoyed in Britain. So tax it. created by an older, unfair tax? And I’ll get a knighthood for that anyway, it goes against the grain to little gem! It’s a certainty. agree with supermarket bosses. Business rates might conceivably fall if the tax burden was more Bob Farrand is publisher of Fine Food evenly distributed. Regardless of Digest and chairman of the Guild of EU regulations, David Cameron Fine Food

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EDITORIAL

GENERAL ENQUIRIES

editorial@finefoodworld.co.uk

Tel: 01747 825200 Fax: 01747 824065 info@finefoodworld.co.uk www.finefoodworld.co.uk

Editor: Mick Whitworth Assistant editor: Michael Lane News editor: Patrick McGuigan Art director: Mark Windsor Editorial production: Richard Charnley Contributors: Clare Hargreaves, Anne Bruce

ADVERTISING advertise@finefoodworld.co.uk Sales manager: Sally Coley Advertisement sales: Becky Stacey Published by Great Taste Publications Ltd and the Guild of Fine Food Ltd Chairman/FFD publisher: Bob Farrand Managing director/associate publisher: John Farrand Director/membership secretary: Linda Farrand Marketing & circulation manager: Tortie Farrand Administrators: Charlie Westcar, Julie Coates, Karen Price Accounts: Stephen Guppy, Denise Ballance

Guild of Fine Food, Guild House, 23b Kingsmead Business Park, Shaftesbury Road, Gillingham, Dorset SP8 5FB United Kingdom Fine Food Digest is published 11 times a year and is available on subscription for £45pa inclusive of post and packing. Printed by: Blackmore, Dorset, UK © Great Taste Publications Ltd and The Guild of Fine Food Ltd 2013. Reproduction of whole or part of this magazine without the publisher’s prior permission is prohibited. The opinions expressed in articles and advertisements are not necessarily those of the editor or publisher. The publisher cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or illustrations.

For regular news updates from the industry's favourite magazine visit:

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Editor’s choice

Selected by Mick Whitworth

Stag Bakeries seaweed water biscuits www.stagbakeries.co.uk

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I've been all over Stag Bakeries’ water biscuits for a while. They were one of my favourite new launches at Harrogate 2011, and, while I’m pretty sure Stag has changed the recipe since then, I’m still a fan. Seaweed has been getting trendier for several years but the challenge has been to present it in a way that doesn’t frighten the horses. Incorporating Isle of Lewis seaweed in water biscuits from the same beautiful spot seems like an eminently good idea, and I do like the new packaging they’ve come up with. The word ‘seaweed’ is prominent but so is the image of the perfectly normal-looking crackers. Nothing to be scared of here.

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www.ffdonline.co.uk Vol.14 Issue 7 · August 2013

fine food news Government’s Primary Authority system has potential to ensure better regulation nationwide

Helping charcuterie makers beat ‘risk-averse’ EHOs By MICHAEL LANE

Changes to the Government’s Primary Authority scheme this autumn could allow charcuterie producers to create an industrywide set of standards to combat inconsistent treatment by EHOs. Primary Authority allows businesses to agree a set of standards with a single local authority that must then be followed by inspectors nationally. Initially set up to help companies operating in more than one local authority area, such as supermarket multiples, it will be extended in October to cover small businesses too, provided the standards are agreed through a trade association or other recognised group. Erica Sheward, policy analyst at the government’s Better Regulation Delivery Office, said the scheme could help charcuterie firms stand up to “overzealous and risk-averse” enforcement officers. “Once you’re in the partnership and can demonstrate that you are complying then no enforcer can disagree,” she said. “If they do, their enforcement action will fail.” Sheward, who presented the scheme to a group of British charcutiers at Harrogate Speciality Food Show, added that issues surrounding ambient paté production and the hanging

CHARCUTERIE ON SHOW: 10 producers and distributors took park in a tasting session at Harrogate 2013

of salamis were already on her department’s radar. “The government knows there’s a problem,” said Sheward. “We know enforcement officers can be tricky, we know some of them are in the job for the wrong reason, they like the badge and they like the power and they can push a point even when they’re wrong.” British charcuterie firms have had mixed fortunes at the hands of inspectors. The most recent casualty was Scotland’s Creeside Charcuterie, which closed after just

six months trading, citing the cost of implementing EHO requests as one reason for shutting up shop. Producers also heard from artisan cheddar maker Jamie Montgomery, past president of the Specialist Cheesemakers Association, which has been exploring the Primary Authority scheme with Sheward and Cornwall Council. “You need to find a local authority that has enough technical knowledge to make this work,” Montgomery said. The Guild of Fine Food is to meet with Sheward to discuss the

Expansion of English fizz raises fears of over-supply By PATRICK McGUIGAN

Sussex’s Rathfinny Estate is currently planting a 400-acre vineyard

August 2013 · Vol.14 Issue 7

The organisation representing English wine has dismissed concerns that a growing number of new producers could lead to over-supply in the market. Several new English sparkling wine producers are launching products this year including Digby Fine English, Sussex-based Ambriel and Hattingly Valley in Hampshire. Hambledon Vineyard in Hampshire has recently opened a state-of-the-art winery at its 50-acre vineyard, while new Sussex producer the Rathfinny Estate is currently planting a 400-acre vineyard. The estate will eventually produce over one million bottles of high quality sparkling wine a year, making Rathfinny the country’s largest single vineyard and estate ahead of

scope for developing a charcuterie scheme under the Guild’s umbrella. The Harrogate meeting was part of a full day of charcuterie-focused events. Ten artisan producers and wholesalers staged an hour-long tasting session in the Great Taste Live theatre. Artisan producers also took part in a series of one-toone meet-the-buyer sessions with Whole Foods Market’s UK speciality coordinator John David Harmon. • Charcuterie news – p21. www.bis.gov.uk/brdo/primaryauthority

Denbies and Nyetimber, respectively. The acceleration in new producers entering the market has prompted some in the industry to voice fears of excess production. Frazer Thompson, chief executive of Chapel Down in Kent, and English winemaker David Cowderoy have both argued that there are too many producers following the same format of making sparkling wine that retails for £25-30. “There are so many brands entering the English sparkling wine market that they need distinct positions,” said Frazer Thompson at an English sparkling wine seminar held at this year’s London International Wine Fair. He predicted that another 20 English wine brands would enter the market in the next 20 years. However, Julia Trustram-Eve, marketing director at English Wine Producers, told FFD there was still plenty of room for growth in the market. “Demand is currently exceeding supply in the domestic market and there is huge untapped potential in exports,” she said. “I Follow us on

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STand and Deliver: First-time exhibitor Tom’s Pies won the Tiptree-sponsored Best Stand award at Harrogate Speciality Food Show, which took place at the end of June. The Devon-based firm narrowly beat Michael Lee Fine Cheese, which claimed second place for the second year running, while 2012 winner Cheese Cellar received the third highest total of votes cast by visitors. Andrew Walker of The Patisserie Malton won the voters’ prize draw for a hamper of Tiptree preserves. Meanwhile, The Fine Cheese Co/Artisan Biscuits was chosen by Tony Howard, of Lewis & Cooper fame, as the best exhibitor. This year’s record number of visitors were also treated to a packed Great Taste Live stage, including the ever-popular Feed the Dragon sessions and a cookery demo from chef Stephanie Moon.

IN BRIEF l More than half of independent retailers believe they earn less than the minimum wage (£6.19 per hour) when the number of hours worked is taken into consideration, according to a survey by the Association of Convenience Stores. More than two thirds (69%) said they earned less per hour than the living wage (£7.45 per hour).

l The USA’s Food and Drug

Curd is the word on the street

don’t think there is any danger of a glut of English wine. “Average production is currently around three million bottles a year with around two million of those sparkling wine. It’s a tiny amount when you compare it to Champagne which produces around 340 million bottles a year.” Trustram-Eve said increased competition among English wine brands would be good for the sector. “Competition will help companies develop their brand identities and different styles of wine,” she said. She added that farm shops were well placed to take advantage of growing awareness and appreciation of English wines. “We’ve seen more farm shops and delis signing up to take part in English Wine Week. They slot very well into local food trends in those markets.” www.englishwineproducers. com

sales manager Srdja Mastilovic said influential London restaurant St John was one of the first to use goats’ curd on its menu. It serves the product with lentils as a vegetarian option and uses it to make cheesecake. “St John is so influential, and so many of its chefs have gone on to open their own restaurants, that goats’ curd has become a staple” said Mastilovic. “Chefs order cheese for the board, table butter and now goats’ curd – it’s an ingredient that’s widely used.” Wholesaler Wellocks,

which supplies Ribblesdale goats’ curd, said it expected the trend to take off in retail as well. “People who dine out in these restaurants are going home and want to try out similar recipes, so we see a growing retail market too,” said a spokesperson. Ribblesdale already supplies Fodder farm shop in Harrogate with its goats’ curd in 125g pot and is currently developing new packaging for retail. At the Old Cheese Room in Wiltshire, cheesemaker Julianna Sedli has also seen growing demand for her Jersey milk curd. She has developed two new, flavoured curd-based products called Pearls.

Break out the… BritPop? The Duchess of Cornwall has called for a new name for English sparkling wine, reigniting a long-running industry debate. Camilla made the comments while opening the new £2.5m winery at Hambledon Vineyard in Hampshire in her capacity as president of the United Kingdom Vineyards Association. “I think people should put their heads together and think of a new name for English sparkling wine,” she said. “It should have something with much more depth. I plan to find a new

word for it.” The industry has long discussed adopting a catchier name to help it compete against Cava, Champagne and Prosecco, but has failed to agree on a term. Coates & Seely has argued for the term ‘Britagne’ to be adopted, while Ridgeview has proposed ‘Merret’, in honour of the English scientist Dr Christopher Merret, who some say helped invent Champagne. ‘Albion’ and even ‘BritPop’ have also been suggested. Featureflash / Dreamstime.com

Loved by chefs for its silky texture and versatility, curd is one of the hottest ingredients in the restaurant sector and sales are now taking off in retail. Neal’s Yard Dairy, which sells goats’ milk curd from Neal’s Yard Creamery and Innes Cheese to restaurants and through its shops, says it has seen sales double in the past two years. At the same time cheese producers have launched several new curd products to take advantage of the trend. Neal’s Yard Dairy’s restaurant and distributor

The Duchess of Cornwall wants a catchier name for English bubbly

Administration is blocking imports of the French cheese Mimolette, famous for having cheese mites on its rind, for containing too many of the creatures. The cheese has been imported into the US for decades but the FDA has now decided that the microscopic mites break safety rules. Outraged American fans have launched a Facebook page protesting against the decision.

l A Shropshire farm has imported £10,000 worth of bees from Italy after losing two-thirds of its stock following months of poor weather. The Plymouth Estate, at Bromfield, near Ludlow, has lost more than 100 hives in the past 12 months. The bees pollinate farm crops and make the honey, which is then sold in the estate’s Ludlow Food Centre.

l Northern Ireland’s Fivemiletown Creamery is now supplying its Irish Boilie cheese pearls to three of the biggest supermarkets in the Caribbean. The company will supply the stores in Barbados through Caribbean Trading, one of the region’s largest food and drink wholesalers.

l Peter Andrew, the former commercial director of Wensleydale Creamery, has joined Somersetbased Godminster as managing director. Godminster specialises in gift foods such as its distinctive burgundy-waxed organic cheddars and vodkas infused with elderflower or horseradish, made for the brand by third-party producers. Andrew previously spent eight years at Dairy Crest and has worked at senior level for several major retailers.

l Six months after the horsemeat scandal broke, new research from Mintel has found that just half of all Brits trust the food industry to provide safe food to eat, with almost two fifths (37%) undecided. Only 42% of people believe the food industry is able to effectively react to food scares while just 23% of the nation agree that the supply chain works effectively together. For regular news updates from FFD visit:

www.ffdonline.co.uk Vol.14 Issue 7 · August 2013

fine food news Top 50 Foods on Twitter as Great Taste build-up begins Twitter users will get first sight of this year’s Top 50 Foods in Britain as the highest ranking products from Great Taste 2013 are ‘leaked’ online over the coming month. Starting on Friday August 9, the Guild of Fine Food will reveal two of the Top 50 each day, until the full list is published at this year’s Speciality & Fine Food Fair in London on September 8, ahead of the Great Taste presentation night at the Royal Garden Hotel on September 9. Visitors to the Fair will be also be able to sample many of the Top 50 Foods at a new Great Taste Deli section. The Top 50 will be tweeted from @guildoffinefood and posted daily throughout August on the Guild’s homepage, www.finefoodworld. co.uk. Final judging of Great Taste 2013 was completed as FFD went to press. Forty top-level buyers, chefs and food writers assembled at Guild HQ in Dorset to select the Top 50 Foods in Britain and decide on this year’s ‘golden fork’ winners. Guild MD John Farrand said: “We introduced the Top 50 idea last year specifically to catch the attention of the media, and since so many big-name food writers and chefs are active online it makes sense to spread the word on Twitter. “But everyone will still have to wait until September 8 to find out the Supreme Champion and the other major trophy winners.” Entries to Great Taste have again broken all records, with 9,800 products from around 2,100

Newly-appointed Sunday Times cook Gizzi Erskine was lined up for last month’s final Great Taste judging team

producers put forward for judging, up 11% on 2012. Of these, however, just 125 were awarded the maximum three gold stars – only two more than last year. All 125 were due to be re-tasted at the final judging day by experts including Harrods food chief Bruce Langlands, BBC Radio 4’s Sheila Dillon, Masterchef Mat Follas and Sunday Times cook Gizzi Erskine. With around 400 food experts now involved in more than six weeks of judging, the Guild has continued to tighten the process in 2013. No gold stars are awarded until a product has been tried by at

If I'd known then what I know now...

Lisa Goodchild The Cotswold Cheese Company We bought this shop from Jon Gleeson, who had been running it for about five years, in September 2010. We’d never worked with food before. My husband, Jon, had worked in corporate life for 20 years and I was a medical assessor, but we wanted to do something completely different. It was the steepest of learning curves, especially as we were straight into Christmas. We didn’t have a clue as to what would sell or not. I just looked at the invoices from the previous year and ordered exactly the same. The amount of stock that was coming through the door seemed so much.

August 2013 · Vol.14 Issue 7

least three teams of judges. Equally, no product is turned down without a second team tasting it, and the level of feedback to producers has been strengthened. Guild chairman Bob Farrand said: “A key element this year has been the appointment of a team of around 30 professional food writers to capture the judges’ comments. If an entry is not awarded gold by the first panel, a second tastes it. Both panels input their suggestions on how the food can be improved, so those producers not fortunate enough to earn a star receive valuable feedback.” www.finefoodworld.co.uk

virtual shop and then get it all linked up to PayPal. It was quite a headache, especially with Christmas going on at the same time, but I’m glad now that we did it. The website gives a real boost to the business and I think people browse the product range online before coming in the shop. They can see what a good range we do and perhaps don’t feel so intimidated when they come in.

Deliveries would arrive and Jon would be looking at me, going, “Are you sure?” We just had to assume that the guy we had bought the shop from knew what he was doing. Luckily he did! We If we’d read too much about actually order a running a shop, we might never have lot more now at taken the plunge Christmas. At the same There was quite a lot of naivety time as dealing with Christmas on our part when we took over, we decided to set up an which was probably a good thing. If e-commerce site, which was perhaps we’d read too much about running slightly foolish. We thought it would a shop, we might never have taken be straightforward but it wasn’t. the plunge. Our attitude was, “How We had to upload all our products difficult can selling cheese be?” – descriptions and photos – into a

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New owners to grow Bellota’s Spanish offer Spanish food and drink may have suffered from an image problem in the UK in the past, but that is changing with improvements to packaging and branding. That’s the view of Nic Tolhurst, who, along with his wife Sarah, has acquired Spanish food and drink importer Bellota.“I was going through some old catalogues and you can see how Spanish branding has improved over the years,” he said. “They’ve had to improve their packaging and develop stronger brands because export markets like the UK have demanded it.” Tolhurst said the company’s new range of gazpachos from Barcelonabased producer Ferrer was a good example. “It comes in glass bottles that look a little like vintage milk bottles – they look great on-shelf,” he said. “We’ve also started sourcing Fairtrade tinned seafood from Jose Gourmet, which has really eye-catching packaging with lithographic outer boxes.” The Tolhursts acquired Bellota in May from Peter Snow, who founded the business in 1998, and have since relocated it from Herefordshire to Essex. Bellota is best known for its charcuterie, but the company’s product range is now being expanded to offer all types of speciality food from Spain. A new website and company branding are also being launched. www.bellota.co.uk

Jose Gourmet: ‘Eyecatching’

Well, the answer is, “Very difficult!” One of the things we should have done is gone on a specialist course to learn about the cheeses, but we got one thing right by working alongside Jon Gleeson for a couple of weeks before going it alone. Without that we would have sunk. He gave absolute knowledge on everything from wrapping cheese to the finance side and introducing us to customers. It took about six months before we felt confident enough to start changing things in the shop. We probably should have listened to our suppliers more in those early days. It took me a while before I felt I could expand the product range. We’re opening a second branch in Chipping Campden soon and I feel much more confident about that after everything we have learned. Interview by PATRICK McGUIGAN

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www.teaindia.co.uk Vol.14 Issue 7 路 August 2013

New flavours Black Pudding & English Mustard and simply spuds By ‘eck, you’ll find ‘em tasty To Order and view our other flavours Get in touch 01704 823572 info@fiddlerslancashirecrisps.co.uk www.fiddlerslancashirecrisps.co.uk

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fine food news new openings

Opening or expanding a shop? Email details to editorial@finefoodworld.co.uk

East Yorkshire chip shop owners open first deli

At a glance l The product range includes Wold Top beers, Staal Smokehouse salmon, Side Oven bread and granola, cheese from Epicure’s Larder, Elliott Eggs and milk from St Quentin Creamery. The deli also uses its fish and chip shop contacts to source prepared seafood. “We’re selling around 100 dressed crabs a week at the moment,” said Barker.

l The 50-seater café serves hot breakfasts, salads, sandwiches, platters, soup, quiche and mains, such as Staal smoked duck with a pomegranate dressing and steak topped with Yorkshire Blue cheese and mango chutney.

l Other fine food retailers in East Yorkshire include Drewton’s, Sunderlandwick Estate Farm Shop and William’s Farm Kitchen.

l The Barkers run seven fish and chip shops, called Stuart’s of Driffield, at locations in East and North Yorkshire. The new deli will be run by Vanessa Barker and has created 20 jobs.

products – including quiches, sausage rolls and cakes – and everyday items, such as bread, milk and eggs. “You can come in for a pint of milk or a £20 bottle of olive oil,” said Barker. “I don’t want to be seen as a luxury shop. I want people to visit on a regular basis, so everyday essentials are really important. I hate the supermarkets and want people to do as much of

their weekly shop here as they can.” An important part of the shop is the butchery counter, which is supplied by John Penny & Sons, a Leeds-based farming and wholesale butchers business. “There’s a Tesco and a M&S Food Hall in town, but neither of them can compete with us on meat in terms of price and quality,” added Barker.

A new deli in the market town of Beverley wants to put East Yorkshire on the foodie map by showcasing food and drink made in the region. Set up by chip shop owners Stuart and Vanessa Barker, Vanessa houses a large butchery counter, a wide range of locally sourced products and a first floor café. “We are blessed with some amazing artisan producers

and beautiful countryside in East Yorkshire, but we’re often overlooked as a foodie destination,” said Vanessa Barker. “North Yorkshire gets a lot more attention for its food because of retailers like Weetons and Fodder. They have been an inspiration for me.” As well as local lines, the shop also has a wide range of international specialities, homemade

Edington Farm Shop

Toast the Cotswolds Bourton-on-the-Water

Carpo Piccadilly, London

A new farm shop in Bourton-onthe-Water is taking local sourcing to another level by vowing to buy everything from within the Cotswolds. Toast the Cotswolds has been set up by Anna MacCurrach, who is married to beef farmer James MacCurrach. The couple have been selling their meat beef direct to the public online at www.lovemycow.com for several years, as well selling their own burgers at festivals and events. She also set up the Cotswold Food and Farming Festival in 2011. “As a result of organising the festival I became aware of how many local producers there are in the Cotswolds and how I don’t always see them on the shelves of local farm shops and delis,” said MacCurrach. “My USP is that all of the products in my shop are either made in the Cotswolds or supplied to me by businesses based in the Cotswolds, so

An outlet selling top quality nuts, dried fruit, chocolate and coffee has opened in the heart of Piccadilly in London. Carpo’s unusual range stretches from pistachios, peanuts and almonds to less familiar lines, such as whole preserved lemons, goji berries and dried kiwi fruits. Special merchandising units give the appearance of a vintage sweetshop, while nuts are kept in rustic sacks on the shop’s floor. The new store is owned by Greek nut and snack company Carpo Hellas, which also has a shop in Athens.

Wiltshire

Wiltshire-based Edington Farm Shop, which features an on-site microbrewery, was officially opened last month. The new business joins a refurbished pub, a fruit & veg farm and a bed & breakfast in the village of Edington, which have all been established in the last three years by American-born local property entrepreneur Chad Pike. The farm shop, which is run by Karen McKellen, sells local food, plants, and household items as well as the ales produced in its own Three Daggers Brewery. www.edingtonfarmshop.co.uk

every penny spent is helping people in the local area. Suppliers include Paddock House Preserves, The Cotswold Cider Co, Upton Smokery and Simon Weaver Cheese. www.toastthecotswolds.com

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Waitrose’s next target: restaurants Farm shops and delis with restaurants and cafés are facing a powerful new competitor after Waitrose announced it planned to open its first in-store restaurant. The full-service restaurant, which opens next year, will serve pizza, burgers and steaks using products on sale in store. The move follows the success of smaller cafés in its larger supermarkets, which currently operate in 96 stores. MD Mark Price said the rise of online shopping meant retailers had to give shoppers new reasons to visit the high street. Waitrose is also planning to open a new farm shop at its Leckford Estate and already operates a cookery school.

Waitrose is building on its in-store cafés with a full restaurant offer

Steady hand for Jaquest The new owners of Derbyshirebased smoke house and charcuterie producer Jaquest Fine Foods plan to expand into new areas and increase online sales. Jason Williams and his partner Rachel Lancaster acquired the Bolsover business from John Jaquest, who founded it in 1989. The couple used to make their own pancetta and bacon as a hobby, which was smoked by Jaquest, but have now decided to go professional. John Jaquest will work alongside the couple for at least a year to help them learn the ropes.“We want to learn as much as we can from John and don’t plan to radically change anything, but we are looking to grow sales outside Derbyshire in places such as Sheffield and Leeds,” said Williams. The company smokes around 30-50 sides of salmon a week and produces pastrami, ham and salt beef. It also has its own deli in Bolsover. Follow us on

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Wild Trail raises £200,000 to fund expansion By PATRICK McGUIGAN

Snack bar company Wild Trail plans to rapidly grow sales with fine food retailers after raising almost £200,000 through crowd-funding site CrowdCube. The company, which makes a range of healthy cereal bars, was set up by Gordon Leatherdale in 2011 and already supplies retailers such as Darts Farm, Tebay Services and Priory Farm Shop, as well as Selfridges. Rather than approaching the banks, Leatherdale used crowdfunding as a way of raising capital to take the business to the next level. Crowdfunding enables businesses to pitch for investment to multiple investors online. Wild Trail aimed to raise £150,000 through CrowdCube in return for 25% equity, but eventually ended up taking £194,000 from a total of 113 investors for around 30% of the business.

Wild Trail counts Selfridges among its current clients

“I knew a couple of the investors beforehand, who helped get the ball rolling, and then it took off from there,” said Leatherdale. “With crowdfunding it’s really important you have a compelling business story and a good track record. The fact we were already trading and had some high profile

customers really helped. There’s also no getting away from having a solid business plan and sensible growth forecasts.” As reported in FFD’s June edition, Wild Trail is one of a growing number of food producers and retailers that are finding alternative sources of investment beyond the high street banks. London charcuterie specialist Cannon & Cannon has just launched a monthly box scheme after raising start-up cash through crowdfunding (see Cut & Dried, p21). Wild Trail’s investment will go towards expanding its sales team and increased marketing, with Leatherdale targeting growth in farm shops, delis and food halls as well as exports. He added that retailers who buy directly from the company or through a promotion with Cotswold Fayre can make a 60% margin on the bars. www.wildtrail.co.uk

Dang to get serious about Manfood at Olympia It has only been a few months since new pickle brand Manfood first launched, but the products have already been featured in Delicious, The Independent and the Evening Standard. It’s the kind of national press exposure that most start-ups can only dream of, but it’s all in a day’s work for owner Andre Dang, who also runs his own PR company promoting other food and drink businesses. Dang, who was previously a buyer for Harrods and Selfridges, and has acted as an expert judging arbitrator for Great Taste 2013, started selling pickles at Ely farmers’ market in Cambridgeshire in April. He now also attends St Ives farmers’ market and sells online, but still hasn’t officially launched to the retail trade. “I’ve booked a stand at the Speciality & Fine Food in September, which will be our main launch,” said Dang. “I wanted to build up steadily through word of mouth and in the press, so that buyers would hopefully approach us, rather than doing what every other producer

does and send product to buyers. It seems to be working because I’ve already had some of the big food halls asking why they hadn’t seen the range.” Manfood is aimed at men who want something quick and easy to go with snacks such as pork pies, sausage rolls and cheese. It includes piccalilli; smoked

tomato sauce; Achar (a Malaysian chilli vegetable pickle based on Dang’s mother’s recipe); and Bread & Butter pickles – sliced cucumbers in a sweet and sour marinade with Asian seasonings. The products are made by Dang in a fully certified kitchen at his local pub and retail for £3.95. www.welovemanfood.com

Manfood: going for bloke Vol.14 Issue 7 · August 2013

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fine food news

White van man Interview Working with minimal stock and a quick turnaround, Hampshire-based distributor Ian Samways has applied a fresh food model to ambient speciality food, as he tells MICK WHITWORTH

ith 6,500 products in his catalogue you’d expect to find distributor Ian Samways operating from the management office of some anonymous warehouse on a sprawling industrial park. But tap his postcode into satnav and you’ll be directed instead to an attractive cluster of converted farm units at Chilbolton Down Farm in rural Hampshire, part of an estate owned by Lady Boughey. Here, Samways works from his home office in a former stable block, sharing space with wife Gail – a Michelin trained chef and former deli manager – a handful of other colleagues and Millie, a bouncy, sixmonth-old Hungarian Vizsla pointerretriever. It’s about as un-corporate as you can get. “I’m not an office wallah,” Samways says, plonking a cup of instant coffee on the desk. “Until recently I was out in a van two days a week, delivering in Somerset and the Cotswolds. I loved it.” Samways’ eponymous company delivers brands ranging from Tyrrells crisps and Belvoir cordials to Oreo cookies and L’Aquila truffles to around 250 customers every week. It uses its own vans to service “south central England” – think of a triangle formed by Exeter, Brighton and Birmingham – and has recently starting to pick up internet orders nationally and even overseas, servicing these by Palletline or courier. Yet its warehouse – another converted barn on the same farm estate – contains the barest minimum of stock, thanks to Ian Samways’ unusual business model. “We’re not wholesalers,” he tells FFD. “We’re pure distributors. We don’t import, we don’t pick products and we don’t warehouse.” Instead, his catalogue combines the product lists of numerous other wholesalers and producers – among them RH Amar, Bespoke, Brindisa, Atkins & Potts, Tiptree and WG White – plus a smaller number of regional artisan firms. Smaller shops and restaurants that could never afford the minimum orders required by big suppliers can buy single-case quantities from Samways, which asks for a minimum order of just £160 – very reasonable when that mixed order might comprise 10-12 different brands. Orders are taken from shops, pubs and restaurants every Monday,

Ian Samways: ‘Until recently I was out in a van two days a week, delivering in Somerset and the Cotswolds. I loved it.’

With its quick turnaround of then consolidated and passed on orders, Samways has effectively to suppliers the same day. Some taken a fresh foods distribution brands, such as Tyrrells, deliver model and applied it to ambient direct to Samways on a Tuesday, goods. And it seems to work. The while others stock is collected by business has been going 20 years, its own vans in return for a 2.5% and in recent years has only slipped discount. Bulk deliveries are then into negative growth once. “We broken down, re-packed and sent were down 3% in 2009, and I think out to customers during Wednesday, that’s because everyone panicked. Thursday and Friday, leaving the But since then we’ve been running warehouse largely empty for much at around 6% up, and this year of the week. we’re up 15%.” “I wouldn’t want to be a Ian Samways first dabbled in traditional wholesaler, with a speciality food at the age of 19, warehouse full of stuff and all the importing Busha Browne jerk dates ticking,” says Samways. “That seasoning and papaya chutney that would give me sleepless nights.” he’d spotted while staying with He sells at standard mark-up family in Jamaica. UK distribution of 40% on his suppliers’ prices, was handled for him by Robinski, and likes to be selling out at their whose MD Mike Cook (later of RH standard wholesale price too, Amar) eventually gave Samways a which means they need to offer sales job. him a 28.5% discount. “We’re very transparent about what we I wouldn’t want to be a traditional do,” he says. wholesaler, with a warehouse full of “We only stuff and all the dates ticking used to mark up by 25% But Robinski fell prey to the until fuel costs went mad, but fuel is increasing dominance of the straight off your bottom line. When supermarkets, and after he was it gets to £1.50 per litre – which made redundant Samways started it has brushed – that will be the up his own one-man-with-a-van tipping point. We’ll have to be much business. He “bumbled along, just more rigid on minimum orders and paying the bills” for years, until taking that 2.5% off invoices when right-hand man James Harding we pick up stock from suppliers.”

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arrived, helping him push sales growth into double figures for a while. Harding now runs the day-today operations, and Samways says: “If you can get the right staff, you can concentrate on growing your business, which is what I do now.” Over two decades, Samways has watched the balance of speciality sales swing from 80% Continental to 80% regional British foods, and seen farm shops prosper as high street delis struggle. He and his wife – who once ran Winchester store Cadogan & James – have considered opening their own deli, but he says high street rent and rates are “eyewatering”. “I cannot understand, five years into a recession, why landlords are charging what they’re charging,” he says. “It’s stifling the industry.” Take farm shops out of the equation, and the state of the market would be “shocking”, he says, yet Samways continues to move enough volume to keep the likes of Olives Et Al and Belvoir happy. There’s just one noticeable gap in his catalogue, he says, from a company that so far has shunned the use of third-party distributors. “The day I get Tracklements will be the day I kick back and say, ‘I’ve done good work today.’” www.samways.uk.com

Vol.14 Issue 7 · August 2013

A promotional feature on behalf of Le Gruyère AOC

Me and my cheese counter We talk to Kate O’Meara of The Cheese Society.

ccording to Kate O’Meara of The Cheese Society in Lincoln, “we British love our hard cheese.” She knows this better than most having been involved in food and drink since 1976. She started with a wine bar and restaurant, graduated to a deli and then to a deli/ café some 13 years ago. In spring of this year, the need for more space, more tables and more cheese saw her move the deli side of the business into new premises, a little more than a “30 second sprint around the corner.” After 37 years in the trade, you get the feeling her enthusiasm for the town, her customers and her cheese is a strong as ever. “The new deli is tiny,” she says, “just 9m long by 3.5m wide but it’s on a main tourist route to the Cathedral.” For some time the cheese shop was being squeezed by a need for more tables in the café and burgeoning internet cheese sales was restricting stock levels. A new, fully operational cheese shop was the answer and Kate is bubbling about “masses more room, much more storage space. “We haven’t increased the number of cheeses we sell, more the quantity,” she says. “We still have the same seasonal mix of regional, British

August 2013 · Vol.14 Issue 7

and Continental, generally 70% British which reduces to 50/50 for special promotions.” Immediately inside the narrow shop on the left is an ambient counter packed with artisan bread from Welbeck. “They deliver as many times a week as we need,” she says, “they do great sough-dough and we recently featured their sundried tomato ciabatta with Taleggio.” Deeper into the store on the left is a chilled multi-deck and a 3m

What Kate merchandises close to her cheese counter: 1. Loads of interesting breads from Welbeck 2. Chestnut honey 3. Camembert bakers 4. Fondue 5. Cheese knives

serve-over chill counter at the back faces the entrance. “Hard cheeses are my best sellers – Montgomery cheddar, Greens, Keens, Godminster and of course Lincolnshire Poacher. I also sell aged Gouda, Beaufort, Comté, Ossau Iraty and of course, cave aged Le Gruyère AOP.” She uses masses of 6-monthold Le Gruyère in her café in soufflés and tartlets but the cave-age is a great seller in the shop. Most of her continentals are sourced through Hennart “he’s a genuine affineur so I know they’ll be at their best and he lets me pay him in Sterling not Euros, it saves a lot of messing about.“ She buys her Gruyère from Carron Lodge and also sells halves of Tete de Moine “whole cheeses are too big for most customers.” Kate reckons her customer mix is 70% regulars, 30% tourists, so much of her effort is focused on increasing basket spend. “I take delivery each Wednesday of the best Lincolnshire sausages money can buy – from

Mountain’s Boston Sausage Company and we sell out by Thursday afternoon. We are also running a loyalty discount – spend £15 in either the cheese shop or the café and you get 10% off purchases in the other store. Located close to the cheese counter is a wide selection of knives, boards, fondue sets and camembert bakers alongside chestnut honey which “goes perfectly with blue cheese.” She employs two full–timers in the shop and five in the café and they always feature a ‘cheese of the day.’ “The rules are simple,” she says, “everybody who walks in is offered a taste – regardless of who they are – and that includes diners in the café too.“ “People get scared of different cheeses,” she says, “they don’t want to look an idiot by asking for something they then don’t like so we make it easy. These days, I can generally spot what sort of cheese a customer will prefer and I love it when I convert them to one they’re unfamiliar with– goats’ milk cheese in particular or any made using unpasteurised milk. That’s what I really prefer to sell.” The popular internet site, TripAdvisor lists her store as one of the top places to visit in Lincoln. “The other day, a lady from Canada told me she had to visit our shop during her holiday in the UK after finding us on TripAdvisor and looking at our website.” If they’re prepared to travel that far, clearly The Cheese Society has got quite a lot right. But then, after you’ve been in the business for 37 years, you know a thing or two about cheese.

cheesewire Unsung heroes Hidden gems from British producers

news & views from the cheese counter

Suffolk farmer spots niche for raw milk British brie

Singing Granny In a nutshell: Single Gloucester is traditionally aged for three to four months, but Godsells matures some of its cheeses to around 10 months to produce Singing Granny. The 10kg cloth-bound cheeses are made with pasteurised cows’ milk. Flavour and texture: Godsells’ Single Gloucester has hints of lemon and a nutty finish, but Singing Granny has greater length and intensity with acidity balanced by big fruit flavours. The texture is drier and more brittle than Single Gloucester. “It’s almost heading towards Parmesan,” says owner Liz Godsell. History: The cheese came about by accident. The company made too much Single Gloucester one day and decided to mature the spare cheese to see what would happen. The name comes from Godsell’s musicloving mother-in-law, known in the family as ‘the Singing Granny’, while S and G are also the initials of Single Gloucester. Shelflife and cheese care: The cheese is delivered in vacuum packed 1.2kg wedges with a 12 week shelflife. Once the packaging is removed, sell within two weeks. Keep the cheese wrapped in waxed paper or clingfilm. The company is also developing cloth bags. Why should I stock it? This unusual take on a classic British cheese is not well known outside Gloucestershire. It would work well in comparative tastings alongside a traditional Single Gloucester.

A new farmhouse cheese-maker in Suffolk hopes to exploit a gap in the market for raw milk Brie de Meauxstyle cheeses made in Britain. Baron Bigod from Bungay-based Fen Farm Dairy, run by thirdgeneration dairy farmer Jonathan Crickmore and his wife Dulcie, is already carried by Neal’s Yard Dairy. While many British producers make brie using pasteurised milk because of the higher safety risks associated with soft cheeses, Baron Bigod is one of only a few raw milk versions. “Brie-style cheeses are difficult to make with raw milk,” said Dulcie Crickmore. “They can be more risky if you don’t know what you’re doing, so understanding the scientific side of things has been really important to us.” The couple attended courses at the School of Artisan Food and the Specialist Cheesemakers’ Association before launching the cheese, and have also had advice from influential consultant Ivan Larcher. Baron Bigod (pronounced

Foyers.biz

By PATRICK McGUIGAN

Baron Bigod: made with milk from the Crickmore’s 76 Montbeliarde cows

‘by-god’) is made with milk from the farm’s 76-strong herd of Montbeliarde cows and the company is currently only producing around 24 of the 2.5kg cutting cheeses each week. They are aged for five to six weeks, giving a final flavour that is earthy and mushroomy with a silky texture. While Neal’s Yard takes most of

Urban cheese is new addition to London’s food culture By PATRICK McGUIGAN

A new generation of urban cheesemakers are setting up in London to meet demand for local products from the capital’s thriving food scene. Several new dairies have opened in inner city locations in recent years, finding success at markets, street food events and restaurants across the capital. Wildes, which was set up by Philip Wilton last year in Tottenham, has seen growing demand from local farmers’ markets and retailers

including Sourced and Cannon & Cannon. “Cheese is one of the last parts of the food sector to be urbanised,” he said. “People don’t want the vacuum-packed stuff sold in the supermarkets; they want something more interesting and to support their local economy at the same time. You can see that in the number of markets there are now. In Haringey alone there are now four food markets on a Sunday.” The former management consultant makes cheeses using

Perfect partners: Try with a fruity Belgian beer such as Duvel. Good served with a drizzle of honey. Where to get it: Contact the dairy directly: www.godsellscheese. com FFD will feature a different ‘unsung hero’ from Specialist Cheesemakers’ Association members each month. To get involved, contact: patrick.mcguigan@finefoodworld.co.uk

Kristen Schnepp makes her Mexican-style queso fresco among the mean streets of Peckham

the production, a small amount is distributed to East Anglian regional distributor Hamish Johnston, which supplies shops including the Bistro at the Deli in Saxmundham. Baron Bigod is named after the Norman lord of Bungay castle, Hugh Bigod. The ruins of his castle overlook the farm. www.fenfarmdairy.co.uk

milk from a single herd in Rye. He numbers his cheeses and gives them quirky names, such as Wildes Number 5: The Drunk, which is washed in Hopspur beer from local brewery Redemption. Fellow urban cheese-maker Kristen Schnepp launched Gringa Dairy in Peckham earlier this year after previously working for technology and financial services companies. The Californian makes Mexican queso fresco – a soft, fresh cheese, similar to feta – using organic milk from Kent. It is crumbled over tostadas and salads as well served in Mexican sandwiches called tortas. “It’s about hyper-local – people want to buy food that is made in their immediate area, but the distribution model also make sense,” she said. “It’s easier to bring the milk into London in one shipment and make the cheese in the area it is going to be distributed.” Other urban cheese-makers that are tapping into the trend include Mootown, which makes Bermondsey Spa by washing cheese in Kernel ale, and Kappacasein, which was set up by Bill Oglethorpe in 2009. The former Neal’s Yard Dairy cheesemonger makes cheese such as Bermondsey Frier and Bermondsey Red, which is sold at Borough market where he also has a toasted cheese sandwich and raclette stall. Vol.14 Issue 7 · August 2013

cheesewire

Fast-tracked to sainthood Interview

White Wood Dairy’s raw milk St Jude has won the kudos-laden James Aldridge trophy just a year after launch. PATRICK McGUIGAN spoke to well-chuffed cheese-maker Julie Cheyney.

August 2013 · Vol.14 Issue 7

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I’m not a cheesemaker in kitten heels and lipstick – I can milk cows and drive tractors.

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Retts Wood/www.rettswood.com

ise old curd nerds will tell you that it takes five years for a new cheese to really hit its stride. According to conventional wisdom, cheesemakers must first master seasonal changes in the milk before they can make a really good product. Conventional wisdom does not seem to apply to Julie Cheyney, owner of White Wood Dairy in Hampshire, however. Her lactic cows’ milk cheese St Jude has just won the James Aldridge Memorial Trophy for Britain’s best raw milk cheese, despite only being launched a year ago. The St Marcellin-style cheese has a lemony flavour and moussey texture when young, but develops into an earthy little bombshell in a basket as it matures, which belies its dainty appearance. I’ve been a huge fan since day one, as have Cheyney’s fellow cheese-makers – the James Aldridge award is voted for by members of the Specialist Cheesemakers Association. “What a first birthday present!” says an obviously delighted Cheyney. “I know it’s an in-house award and doesn’t have a big marketing mechanism behind it, but it’s the people that vote that really count. For cheese-makers, it’s the one.” It’s not the first time that Cheyney has wowed judges with a new cheese. She co-founded Hampshire Cheeses with Stacey Hedges back in 2004 and two years later their now famous Tunworth was named Supreme Champion at the British Cheese Awards. She parted company with Hedges in 2010 and spent the next two years dividing her time between working for Neal’s Yard Dairy in its maturing rooms in Bermondsey, visiting cheese-makers and teaching at the School of Artisan Food, while she worked out what to do next. It was a tough few years, involving much soul searching, she says, but equilibrium was restored when she was introduced

Julie Cheyney: ‘I want to make cheese that has its own Hampshire terroir’

to Sam Martin, a dairy farmer in Hampshire. His cows are an unusual cross between Holstein, Friesian, Swedish Red and Jersey breeds. The milk they produce has its own unique character and was just what Cheyney needed to get back into cheese-making. “I’ve always been a cow nerd,” she says. “I learned to milk cows at school when I was 16 and worked on local farms at the weekend. I

always go right back to the raw ingredient – what breed the cow is, what they’re fed on and how they are kept. I want to make cheese that has its own Hampshire terroir to it. Every herd is different and I want to reflect that character in my cheese.” Cheyney collects the milk in 20-litre churns at 4.30am in the morning before returning to her production unit at nearby Manor

Farm in Alton. “I’m not a cheesemaker in kitten heels and lipstick – I can milk cows and drive tractors,” she says. “I sometimes help milk the cows at the weekend just because I like doing it, but it also means I can find out what’s going on with the herd and how that will affect the milk I will be using to make cheese.” Making St Jude is a slow process. Starter cultures are added at 6am and left to multiply in the milk for 12 hours before a small amount of rennet is added. It’s not ready for ladling until about 3am, nearly 24 hours after the milk was first collected. “I don’t have a nineto-five life,” laughs Cheyney. She makes twice a week, turning 300 litres of milk into 460 cheeses, all of which are sold to Neal’s Yard, where they are matured and sold at between two and six weeks old. Cheyney has recently installed her own maturing room at the farm and plans to step up production by 150-200 cheeses a week, so she can sell to other customers. While the James Aldridge award win was a great honour, Cheyney has been in the cheesemaking game long enough to know St Jude is by no means the finished article. “I’m still learning about the milk and that will dictate how the cheese develops,” she says. “I’m certainly not trying to pin it down to a particular specification. I’d like to use less starter culture and let the natural flora in the milk come through more so you can really taste Hampshire. “The difficulty of being a lactic cheese-maker is that we have a short maturing window to get as many flavours as possible. We haven’t got a year, we haven’t even got six months, we’ve got six weeks before it’s becoming hot and peppery and not very nice to eat. We’ve got to work our magic in a very short time.” www.whitewooddairy.co.uk

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Blue stocking PATRICK McGUIGAN asks three retailers about which British and Continental blues they keep on their counters Androuet

Fourme d’Ambert is one of two French classics that sell well for Androuet

Spitalfields, London As you would expect, the London outpost of famous Parisian fromagerie Androuet has a fine range of French blues. There is Roquefort Carles, made by one of the last traditional family producers of Roquefort, as well as lesserknown cheeses such as Bleu des Basques, produced by Fromagerie Onetick. What is perhaps a little surprising, however, is that the shop also stocks a decent line-up of British blues, such as Barkham Blue, Per Las and Stilton. “The level of British cheeses is fantastic – just as good as French. I couldn’t say one was better than the other,” says Androuet director Alex Guarneri. The company supplies restaurants around London and Guarneri says a blue cheese is essential for a restaurant cheeseboard, but you have to pick wisely. “Bleu d’Auvergne is something

Locally produced Cote Hill Blue is an essential for Kate O’Meara

The Cheese Society Lincoln, Lincolnshire

that won’t work in a restaurant – it’s too crumbly and fragile. Fourme d’Ambert works much better.” Restaurants also want cheese

KS MUST-STOC

rles Roquefort Ca hitfield Paxton & W Stilton a Blu di Bufal mbert A d' e Fourm

that is at the point of ripeness, which is why Androuet matures cheeses in its own cellar for weeks and even months. “We want to sell it exactly at the moment of perfect condition. The cheese tells us when to sell it,” says Guarneri. “With blue cheese I want balance and complexity. I still want to be able to taste the milk.” Top blue and booze combo: Roquefort and Jurançon sweet wine. “The wine is quite delicate and sweet and doesn’t hide the flavour of the cheese.”

Macfarlane’s

Clapham, London “What, no Stilton?” was FFD’s initial reaction when Macfarlane’s owner Robert Marsham reeled off his best selling blues, but it turns out that the customers at this Clapham-based deli have more adventurous tastes. “We sell masses of Cropwell Bishop Stilton at Christmas and a bit at Easter, but the rest of the year our clients are not that interested,” he says. “Our client base is very well travelled and they know what they want. We often bring in cheeses specifically for a particular customer that never actually go into the counter. Our agent in France works directly

KS MUST-STOC Oxford Blue Roquefort

e Binham Blu Rochebaron

Oxford Blue is among the top sellers on Macfarlane’s Stilton-free list

with cheese producers on our behalf and always puts a number of new cheeses, including blues, on the pallet for us. We will do tastings with them and when they’re gone, they’re gone.” Around a quarter of the 70-90 cheeses on Macfarlane’s counter are blue, with Europe well represented by cheeses such as Gorgonzola, Picos de Europa, Fourme d’Ambert and Bleu de Chevre.

“If you’re serious about cheese you need to have a big selection of blues. You need that variation. I used to work in the hospitality sector and we would always ring the changes on the menu to keep customers interested. Now my counter is my menu.” Top blue and booze combo: Stilton with a Banyuls sweet red wine. “It’s a great alternative to Port.”

“A lot of people think they don’t like blue cheese, but they just need a bit of encouragement,” says Kate O’Meara, MD of the Cheese Society in Lincoln, who has more tricks up her sleeve than Paul Daniels when it comes to getting people to go blue. “Tasting is essential,” she says. “I’m constantly getting customers to try different cheeses. If they say they don’t like blue cheese because it’s ‘too strong’ or ‘tastes mouldy’, I’ll give them a sliver of Blue Wensleydale, which is a gentle introduction to blue cheese. That usually does the trick.” The Cheese Society also has a ‘monthly selection’, which always includes a new blue. This is sent out mail order to online customers and is served in the shop’s cheese café. “Black Dub Blue from Appleby Creamery is on there at the moment, but we also use blue cheese in dishes like soufflés and blue cheese melts and we make our own dips by mixing Colston Bassett with cream cheese, red wine and cranberries.” O’Meara sources a wide range of Continental cheese from Hennart, such as Roquefort Troupeau, Bleu des Causses and Bleu d’Auvergne. “The Causses goes really well with a drizzle of chestnut honey, which is another way to get people interested,” she says. Top blue and booze combo: Picos Blue with Brewdog Punk IPA. “It’s a really fruity beer that works with the sweetness of the cheese.”

KS MUST-STOC

sett Stilton Colston Bas e Cote Hill Blu ses us Bleu des Ca ldeon Picos Blue Va

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making more of british & continental charcuterie

Cannon & Cannon gets crowd behind box scheme launch The Meat Club opens up sales to shoppers who can’t reach Cannon & Cannon’s London shop or market stalls

By MICK WHITWORTH

London retailer and wholesaler Cannon & Cannon has developed a box scheme offering regular home deliveries of British charcuterie at a discount of around 20% on its usual selling prices. The specialist firm raised cash through crowdfunding website We Are The Million to finance the launch of its new Meat Club. In a month-long fundraising campaign, potential investors were offered “rewards” ranging from a meat bag of Dorset air-dried beef and six artisan salamis for those investing £25, up to a 12-month meat bag subscription, free tasting events and a £50 shop voucher in return for an investment of £300. The £2,500 target was reached in mid-July, and wholesale manager Owen Davidson Knight told FFD those who had pledged to invest would receive their chosen package of rewards within a couple of weeks. They would also be offered

the chance to sign up for ongoing monthly deliveries. The Meat Club idea was “pretty simple”, he said. “We want to offer a subscription service so customers can get their hands on tasty British charcuterie regardless of whether

well as specials from our producers “We'll also be in a position to commission certain products that most people may not have tried before.” We Are The Million is a social enterprise aiming to create jobs by securing funds for companies struggling with conventional sources of capital. It says a million small firms had loan applications rejected last year. “Now we’ve reached our target, we'll be able to make space in our organisation for another part-time employee,” said Davidson Knight.

they can come to our stalls at Borough Market, South Bank or Brixton. “Each month there will be a little newsletter, and Meat Club members will get the first look on new lines that we are developing, as

www.cannonandcannon.com www.wearethemillion.com

More royal backing for Hampshire producers Hampshire’s newly formed charcuterie producers’ group received a second boost from the royal family last month as it prepared for its first major consumer event. Members of Hampshire Charcuterie were planning their group stand at the New Forest & Hampshire County Show (July 30-August 1) when Sophie, Countess of Wessex, stepped in to support their public launch. A spokewoman for county food group Hampshire Fare, which has helped develop the new group, told FFD: “We were contacted by Sophie’s office expressing her interest in the project. They wanted to arrange for her to come and meet the participants at the show.” Hampshire Charcuterie has been set up by six artisan businesses: Parsonage Farm, Uptons of Bassett, Greenfield Pork Products, Devese

Farm Animals, Tatchbury Manor Farm and Blackwater Pork. It follows the 18-month Preserving the Hampshire Hog project (FFD, May 2013), developed by Hampshire Fare to help the county’s pig farmers diversify into added-value meats. This included a series of training sessions with charcuterie consultant Marc-Frederic Berry and was funded by the Prince’s Countryside Fund, set up by the Prince of Wales to help maintain rural businesses and services. Sarah Mills, who runs Parsonage Farm with husband John, said the surprise approach from the Prince’s sister-in-law was a “great coup”. “We were all planning to make ourselves quietly known to the public at the New Forest show, but this could take it to a different level.” In mid July, Mills was among representatives of Hampshire Charcuterie and Hampshire Fare who

Prince Charles meets (l-r) Sarah Mills of Parsonage Farm, Tracy Nash of Hampshire Fare and Martin Martindale of Greenfield Pork Products at Clarence House

met the Prince of Wales at a garden party at Clarence House in London to celebrate the Prince’s Countryside Fund’s third anniversary. She said the members of Hampshire Charcuterie were “still learning how to work together as a group”, but she was hopeful other small producers would soon join them. “The idea is that we’ll each sell under the Hampshire Charcuterie banner, and the logo will be an assurance that everything is made in the county, using Hampshire-reared meats to an appropriate standard.” www.hampshirefare.co.uk www.parsonage-farm.co.uk www.princescountrysidefund.org.uk

timclinchphotography.com

By MICK WHITWORTH

Learn how to squeak French Nose-to-tail butchery advocate Kate Hill has a few places available on her four-week French farmhouse charcuterie courses in Gascony, starting on September 30 this year and February 3 next year. Developed with farmer and butcher Dominique Chapolard, the courses are aimed at “self-motivated chefs, butchers and farmers, as well as budding artisan charcutiers seeking a traditional French experience”. Delegates learn key butchery skills and how to prepare the full range of fresh, cooked, salted and air-dried charcuterie. Courses are conducted in English at Hill’s teaching kitchen, with visits to butchers’ shops and markets. www. kitchen-atcamont.com/ programs/ charcuterie

Vol.14 Issue 7 · August 2013

Traditional handmade Christmas Puddings from the edge of The Lake District

y l u r t a For s a m t s i r h C t a e gr Country Puddings Lodge Farm, Dacre, Penrith, Cumbria, CA11 0HH tel: 017684 80864 fax: 017684 80249 email: info@countrypuddings.co.uk

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www.NielsenMassey.com Available from Euro Fine Foods Tel: 00 44 (0) 1367 820771 • info@eff2000.com 22

August 2013 · Vol.14 Issue 7

A promotional feature for the Guild of Fine Food

AUGUST’S MONEY MAKING PROMOTIONS ATKINS & POTTS

THE GOURMET CHOCOLATE PIZZA CO

COPAS TRADITIONAL TURKEYS

The Nottingham-based producer has launched a Double Delight chocolate pizza, which merges its two best selling flavours into one, with the festive season in mind. The new line is available in a 7in or 10in size and comes presented in an authentic pizza box. As well as its core and Christmas ranges the company also offers personalised pizzas. THE DEAL: Buy four Double Delight 7in or 10in pizzas, get one free. Applies to August orders only but delivery can be any time before Christmas. Quote ref: FFW13 AVAILABILITY: Nationwide CONTACT: Helen Ellis on 0844 8010959 or info@gourmetchocolatepizza.co.uk

As well as its turkeys, Copas also offers a Very Very Special Accompaniment range to go with its birds at the table. Each of these culinary companions has been developed to old family recipes by Brenda Copas. The range includes Cranberry sauce with Rosemary, Coronation Sauce with Apricots, Boxing Day Chutney, Apricot Stuffing, Sage & Onion Stuffing, Traditional Gravy and Free Range Goose Fat. THE DEAL: Receive a free accompaniment with every turkey ordered (minimum order 20 turkeys). AVAILABILITY: Nationwide. Free delivery for orders of 50+ turkeys. CONTACT: Emma Wharfe on 07964 993734 or emmaw@copas.co.uk

THE ORIGINAL CANDY COMPANY The firm’s gourmet Chocca Mocca Chocolates include a broad range of real fruits and nuts smothered in chocolate. Flavours include Blueberries in Blueberry flavoured Chocolate, Strawberries dipped in White chocolate, Caramelised Hazelnuts and Espresso Coffee Beans. It has also launched a new Paradise Collection featuring Rum flavoured Golden Marzipan in Dark Chocolate, Pieces of Zesty Lemon in Dark Chocolate and Pieces of Calypso Coconut in Milk Chocolate. THE DEAL: Buy 9 cases from the Chocca Mocca range for £200 (21% discount) Offer covers both 100g and 150g Chocca Mocca boxes. AVAILABILITY: Nationwide. Carriage paid minimum order: £200.00 + VAT. CONTACT: Claudia Alfano on 01628 520927 or calfano@originalcandyco.com

This year Atkins and Potts has updated the labels for its dressings range. The labels are larger so that the product names are easier to read and the ingredient images are more eye catching. Consumers can still see lots of the natural colour and texture of the products. The range of eight dressings, which includes Wasabi & Lime, can be used on hot and cold salads or as a marinade for meat, poultry or fish. THE DEAL: 20% off all orders of dressings. AVAILABILITY: Nationwide. Minimum order of eight mixed cases for free delivery. CONTACT: Nicola Young on 01635 254249 or info@atkinsandpotts.co.uk

AVLAKI

UNCLE ROY’S Uncle Roy’s “Sweets And Treats From Yesteryear” range features a number childhood favourites, many of which are exclusive to him. Among the 50 varieties available are Tiger Nuts, Lemon Crystals, Liquorice Root, Coulters Candy, Spogs, Jiquorice Juice sticks, Lucky Tatties, Salt Liquorice, Cinnamon sticks, and Sweet Tobacco. Each line comes in cases of six tall jars (£12.40), which have shelf life of 24 months. RRP per jar is £3.45. THE DEAL: Buy any case of “Sweets And Treats From Yesteryear”, get 1 case free (Uncle Roy’s choice), as part of any carriagepaid order (£150). AVAILABILITY: Nationwide CONTACT: Uncle Roy on 01683 221076 or Uncleroy@uncleroys.co.uk

Avlaki produces two fresh, unfiltered single estate extra virgin olive oils from two separate groves on the Greek island of Lesvos. Agatheri Groves has a mild start and complex finish while Avlaki Groves is grassy and fruity. Both oils come in cases of 12 x 500ml bottles with a trade price of £12 per bottle. THE DEAL: Buy a case of each oil (24 bottles in total at £12 per bottle) get 2 additional cases (one of each oil) half price at £6 per bottle. AVAILABILITY: Nationwide (delivery £10 per this offer, after payment from pro forma) CONTACT: Natalie Wheen on 07721 410974 or info@oliveoilavlaki.com

MR VIKKI’S Mr Vikki’s offers a variety of its awardwinning Indian Fusion Pickles in 190ml hex jars. These include Banana Habanero, Tomato & Nigella, Hot Mango, Tamarind Chipotle, Hot Brinjal and Hot Lime Pickle, all of which have won Great Taste awards. THE DEAL: 25% off first orders of 190ml hex jars. AVAILABILITY: Nationwide CONTACT: Dan Hunt on 01697 475438 or dan@mrvikkis.co.uk

GUILD RETAIL PROMOTION SUMMARY (Available to Guild members only) COMPANY

DEAL

ATKINS & POTTS 20% off all orders of dressings AVLAKI Buy a case of each oil (24 bottles in total) get two additional cases (one of each oil) half price COPAS TRADITIONAL Receive a free accompaniment with every turkey ordered TURKEYS (minimum order 20 turkeys) MR VIKKI’S 25% off first orders of 190ml hex jars THE GOURMET Buy four Double Delight 7 or 10in pizzas, get one free. CHOCOLATE PIZZA CO Quote ref: FFW13 THE ORIGINAL CANDY Buy 9 cases from the Chocca Mocca range for £200 COMPANY (21% discount) UNCLE ROY’S Buy 1 case of “Sweets And Treats From Yesteryear”, get 1 free

TEL

01635 254249 info@atkinsandpotts.co.uk 07721 410974 info@oliveoilavlaki.com 07964 993734 emmaw@copas.co.uk 01697 475438 dan@mrvikkis.co.uk 0844 8010959 info@gourmetchocolatepizza.co.uk

RETAIL MEMBERS – To sign up to the retail promotion scheme contact: tortie.farrand@finefoodworld.co.uk or ring her on 01747 825200 to ensure you receive your shelf-barkers to help promote these discounts instore. SUPPLIER MEMBERS – want to take part? Contact sally.coley@finefoodworld.co.uk for more information.

01628 520927 calfano@originalcandyco.com 01683 221076 Uncleroy@uncleroys.co.uk Vol.14 Issue 7 · August 2013

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August 2013 · Vol.14 Issue 7

product update

christmas

Yuletide selection

It’s time to start thinking about those Christmas orders again. MICHAEL LANE checks out the latest hampers, gifts and luxuries for the festive table. Kitchen Garden’s new Dinner Party Cheeseboard gift packs feature four branded acacia boards as well as two condiments: Gardener’s Pickle and Bramley apple chutney. The set has a trade price of £10.50 and an RRP of £14.99.

Jules and Sharpie, the sister brand to Thursday Cottage, has launched a gift pack containing a trio of versatile hot pepper jellies and chutney in smaller 112g jars. Its hot cranberry jelly is a good match for hot or cold turkey as well as camembert and game. Its hot apple & sage jelly and hot pear jelly are also good with hot or cold meats and cheese. Gift packs are available in cases of six for a trade price of £29.28.

www. kitchengardenpreserves. co.uk

Anglesey sea salt brand Halen Môn will be offering gift sets of its mini clamp top jars. These sets can be packed with any combination of the firm’s salts or peppers. Each pack has a wholesale price of £8.09 and an RRP of £12.95. www.halenmon.com

www.julesandsharpie.com

Scotland’s Saladworx has launched 3x100ml bottle gift packs (RRP £9.99) of its dressings. The Highland-based salad leaf and dressing specialist offers 12 varieties of dressings, including Hebridean seaweed & grapefruit, tarragon & elderflower and heather honey & Arran wholegrain mustard, which can also be used as marinades or drizzles. All dressings are free from dairy, gluten and nuts and remain suitable for vegetarians and vegans.

Bonny Confectionery has assembled a Christmas Hamper showcasing its marshmallows, which can be stirred and dipped into hot drinks. The hamper (wholesale price £17.50, RRP £35) includes one MallowMelt Dipper gift jar, two Mallow Pops, one portion of drinking cocoa and a Bonny Mallow mug all housed in a wooden box. The firm’s mugs can also be bought individually (wholesale £3.75, RRP £7.50) and cross-sold with its dippers.

www.saladworx.co.uk

www.bonnyconfectionery.co.uk

The Truckle Cheese Company has launched an All Blues Hamper, which contains a 500g blue Stilton and a 300g Shropshire Blue truckle. The traditional wicker hamper (trade price £21.85) also includes a 310g pear & vanilla chutney to pair with the cheese. www.trucklecheese. co.uk

Dublin baker The Gluten Free Foodie has developed a hamper that includes Christmas pudding and cake, apple pie, mince pies, cookies and brown bread. The firm welcomes enquiries for both hampers and individual items. www.theglutenfreefoodie.com

Cretan olive oil producer Agno is reviving a previously abandoned grove and is offering consumers the chance to adopt one of its trees. Each adoption pack (trade £50, RRP £79) includes 2 x 500ml of AGNO extra virgin olive oil as well as a jar each of its olives and 100% pure honey. It will also send out two further packages of 2 x 500ml oil during the adoption year. www.creteolive.com

Hi-T’s Fudge says its recently re-launched and re-branded boxes are ideal for gift giving. This handtied packaging is available in 200g, 400g and 600g sizes. Trade prices are £4.05, £6.80 and £9.50 respectively. The Devonbased firm also offers a variety of festive flavours including Christmas pudding, Irish coffee, Cointreau and cranberry & white chocolate. www.hi-tsfudge.com

Fosters has a range of new gift packs that it has assembled to make use of best-selling product combinations. While some of these packs can be sold year-round, there are three Christmas specific selections. Its Decadent Christmas Collection features brandy butter, cranberry sauce, Warming Winter chutney, Christmas cake and mince pies. RRPs for the gift sets range from £6.49 to £17.99. www. fostersfoods.co.uk

Vol.14 Issue 7 · August 2013

product update

Chef Thomas Maieli, aka Mr Ducks Delicacies, has a number of items that will add some luxury to the Christmas table. His mille-feuille of truffles and foie gras (RRP £260/ kg) is made with black Autumn truffles in the run-up to Christmas. Mr Ducks also offers three different ‘Say It With Some Foie Gras’ gift hampers, all featuring 100g of duck foie gras prestige and a 37.5cl bottle of the sweet white Monbazillac. www.mrducksdelicacies.co.uk

christmas The Bay Tree Food Company’s new festive hamper box will be available to order from this month. The box, which comes in cases of four for £48, features Christmas marmalade, Christmas pickle, Coronation sauce, ginger Christmas fudge, morello & port jam and marmalade with whisky. Meanwhile, it has also relabelled its popular stackers to give them a more Christmassy feel. Christmas marmalade, Boxing Day chutney and Christmas pickle all come in cases of 6 x 340g jars (trade £22.80). The firm’s founding director Emma MacDonald is also due to publish a 240-page hardback cookery book, which it will be selling to its retail customers. www.thebaytree.co.uk

Lottie Shaw’s says its Seriously Good mince pies contain a “perfect balance of mincemeat to pastry”. Each box of four pies (RRP £3.25) is hand tied with raffia and finished with a small luggage label and craft Snowman peg. www.lottieshaws.co.uk

Simple Simon’s has created a complete Christmas dinner in light demipuff pastry. Its turkey with gammon and chipolata pie (trade £3.65, RRP £4.95) is made with Ayrshire Gammon from local butcher Ramsays of Carluke and prime turkey fillet. At £4.95 RRP, add a bottle of wine and you have Christmas dinner for under a tenner, it says. www.simplesimonspies.co.uk

Claire’s Handmade has two festive creations on the way. Its Christmas marmalade is a thick cut Seville orange marmalade with a hint of festive spices and topped off with whisky. The Christmas conserve is a fusion of Claire’s mixed berry preserve and ruby port. Both come in cases of six 227g jars (wholesale £1.45, RRP £2.50 per jar).

Le Mesurier’s new apple-based Boxing Day chutney (230g, trade £2.16) is suited to both meat and cheese. Patrick Le Mesurier has also created a classic dill mustard sauce for smoked salmon and a horseradish mustard for roast beef (both 175g, trade £1.99). The final festive product is pickled shallots in balsamic vinegar (300g, trade £2.90), described as a “gourmet alternative” to regular pickled onions. All are available through Cotswold Fayre. www.lemesuriers.com

www.claireshandmade.com

Devon-based Highfield Preserves’ Christmas range is available to order from this month. Among the products in the line-up are honey mustard for ham (100g), Boxing Day chutney (280g), Christmas Time piccalilli (270g), cranberry sauce with orange & port (280g), Winter Morning ginger marmalade (340g) and strawberry & Marc de Champagne conserve (113g), as well as Merry Christmas Preserve (340g), which is made with strawberries, raspberries, blackcurrants and a hint of mulling spice. All of these products are available to the trade in cases of six units with case prices ranging from £7.80 to £13.80 depending on jar size and variety. These lines will also be available in the firm’s new Christmas Preserves Hamper, which Highfield will be selling direct to consumers online. www.highfieldpreserves.co.uk

Importer and distributor Bespoke Foods has added several new festive ranges including Borgo de’ Medici Christmas tea, coffee and pasta. It also has chocolate covered rice quadrinis in Christmas character shapes (cases of 16x30g for £17.60) from German producer Rau as well as marzipan stollen cake from Cologne-based Oebel in 200g (case of 20 for £45.20) and 500g (case of 14 for £48.72). Bespoke will also be offering a range of own brand spices such as 15g nutmeg grater sets, 50g cinnamon sticks and 25g mulled wine pouchettes, which are all available in cases of 12 for £24.12. www.bespoke-foods.co.uk

Organic brand Roots & Wings’ Christmas collection features 12 products, including standard and mini mince pies, fruit cakes, redcurrant sauce, cranberry sauce and four different Christmas puddings. This year, it has added two gluten-free lines: a mini Christmas pudding (100g, RRP £3.15) and a pack of six mince pies (300g, RRP £5.59).

Marshfield Farm has come up with a cooler alternative to the usual Christmas pudding accompaniment. Its brandy clotted cream ice cream comes in 1-litre tubs (RRP £5.20) as well as 4-litre and 5-litre tubs. The new flavour joins existing winter lines such as Christmas pudding, rum & raisin, Cointreau & orange and Champagne sorbet. www.marshfield-icecream.co.uk

www.rootsandwingsorganic.com

The Potted Game Co is re-launching its potted grouse with summer truffles from Hampshire to coincide with the grouse season. The product, which won three stars in Great Taste 2012 and comes in 125g glass jars, will be available from August 12 until Christmas. It is supplied frozen (to be sold chilled) in cases of six for £42. Each jar has an RRP of £12 and a two-week shelf life. www.pottedgame.com

August 2013 · Vol.14 Issue 7

A number of Chef on the Run Foods’ Christmas preserves are now available in its new branding, Passion Preserves. Its luxury tipsy mincemeat, voted top mincemeat by Delicious magazine, comes in 340g jars with an RRP of £3.50 while its spiced blackcurrant cold meat sauce comes in 200ml bottles with an RRP of £3.75. Both its cranberry sauce with mulled wine and its lush lemon, cranberry & chilli marmalade come in 227g jars (RRP £3). All of these lines will be available from July. www.chefontherunfoods.co.uk

Shaws says its fig & honey chutney is ideal in a hamper or on a Christmas cheeseboard. The chutney, which is part of the five-strong Shaws Heritage collection, comes in cases sizes of six units for £12 (RRP £2.99 per jar). www. shaws1889. com

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August 2013 · Vol.14 Issue 7

product update Having already launched several new products and new labels this year, Heather’s Harvest has now come up with a number of Christmas condiments. Its WOW (whisky, orange & walnut) mincemeat, grain mustard with Ow Do beer (from local Bishops Castle brewery), redcurrant & port jelly and Christmas mango & cranberry chutney are all available in two sizes. Larger sizes, which vary depending on the product, have a trade price of £3 while smaller 100g jars will cost retailers £1.50 each. RRPs are £3.95 and £2.50 respectively. www. heathersharvest.co.uk

christmas

Baked in Belfast says its trio of marmalades has an extra splash of Christmas spirit to perk up winter mornings. Its “zingy” lemon-based gin & tonic marmalade and the orange-based vodka & orange and whiskey marmalades are all handcut and come in 200ml jars. The brown card gift sleeves have a trade price of £5.40 with an RRP between £10 and £12.

Hunter’s Puddings is launching a gluten-free Christmas cake for the 2013 festive season. The handmade fruit cake is “packed with fruits and nuts and generously dosed with brandy” before being decorated by hand with marzipan and icing. The cake (trade £14.25, RRP £19.95), which is dressed with a festive ribbon and packaged in a silver gift tin, is available from distributor The Cress Company or direct from Hunter’s. www.hunterspuddings.co.uk

Other new products include gold dusted honeycomb, Tasty mint chocolate stars and stir-in hot chocolate spoons in a variety of flavours including spiced gingerbread.

Whether it’s for self-indulgent purposes or gift-giving, there’s plenty of new chocolate out there

www.sirhanssloane.com

The Chocolate Cellar has launched a Gingerbread “Pizza” (trade price £5.75, RRP £9.95) that can be covered with a milk or dark chocolate ganache and either children’s or adult toppings. Children’s toppings include marshmallows, jelly sweets and raisins. Adult toppings include pecans, almonds, ginger, cranberries and raisins. www.thechocolatecellar.co.uk

www.marniesearchwell.com

www.bakedinbelfast.com

Sweet things

Hans Sloane’s seasonal range includes hand crafted milk and white chocolate snowflakes (4 x 25g per box, trade £3) as well as a pack of two 50g truffle Christmas trees (one milk and one dark, trade £2.50). It also has a pack of six 28g truffle trees – one each of milk, dark, white, salted caramel, dark truffle and cinnamon – for a trade price of £3.

Marnie Searchwell says her recently launched gluten- and dairyfree marzipan fruit cake is perfect for Christmas. The cake, which is made with organic fruit and steeped in Wray & Nephew Overproof Jamaica rum, comes in 415g, 930g and 1.85kg sizes with RRPs of £19.90, £39 and £78 respectively.

Master chocolatier Marc Demarquette has created a Christmas Tree gift box. Each presentation box contains a handpainted chocolate tree made with “silky smooth” 40% Malagasy milk chocolate and a selection of chocolate baubles in four festive flavoured caramels, including sea salt caramel and cranberry (both 71.1% dark). The other baubles are apple & spice and clementine, which are both 40% milk chocolate. Each box wholesales for £15.45 with an RRP of £25. www.demarquette.com

Herefordshire-based chocolatier Sue Gilmour will be producing two Christmas spice bars from September. The bars will be made by hand from Belgian chocolate and flavoured with orange, nutmeg, clove and cinnamon. The 33% milk and 75% dark bars will be available to order in 45g (trade £1.10, RRP £2) and 100g (trade £2.10, RRP £4) sizes.

www.hodchoc.com

The Oban Chocolate Company has created a spiced chestnut & cranberry chocolate as part of its festive collection. The chocolatier, which is celebrating its 10th year in business, supplies them in trays of six (£2.90) or 12 chocolates (£5.50), both of which are hand-tied with ribbon and a sprig of holly. The trays have RRPs of around £5 and £10 respectively. The collection also features whisky barrels, rose & violet creams and Cranachan chocolates for Christmas time. www.obanchocolate.co.uk

Chocolatier House of Dorchester is celebrating its 50th anniversary in 2013 but this year is no different in terms of its festive offer with a number of new launches in the offing. Among the treats in its Tasty Chocolate Gifting Box (£4.39 excl. VAT) are slabs of dark 70% chocolate topped with brownie pieces and freeze-dried raspberries, milk chocolate topped with toffee & biscuit pieces, and white chocolate topped with biscuit pieces. It also has milk chocolate Festive Christmas pudding truffles and festive mince pie truffles in boxes of four (£2.10 excl. VAT) as well as Shimmer Snowballs (£3.25 excl. VAT), which are white chocolate crème brulée truffles.

Montezuma’s says its chunky Christmas Star (65g, RRP £3.99), made with Peruvian milk chocolate, has been created for filling stockings or tucking away in the tree. It has also developed a 200g box of Christmas Tipple truffles (RRP £11.99), which contains 16 truffles with boozy flavours including Buck’s Fizz, rum, brandy snap and Irish coffee. All of the truffles have a butter, cream and chocolate centre with a chunky chocolate shell. www.montezumas.co.uk

Bittersweet Chocolates has introduced two gift bags, each containing three different flavours of its signature ThingyMeJigs. Both the dark chilli & lime, May Chang and peppermint set and the milk orange, caramelised hazelnut, white raspberry & bergamot set cost £8.96 and with an RRP of £14.50. The firm’s Winter range also features mint crisp chocolate shards, milk chocolate pannettone and dark chocolate spiced orange varieties in 100g bags www.bittersweetchocolates.co.uk

www.suegilmour.co.uk

Vol.14 Issue 7 · August 2013

product update

christmas

Mr Filbert’s will be offering three of its nut mixes in 160g kilner jars. Cranberry & orange mixed nuts with fresh vanilla, Christmas spiced almonds with a harissa sugar crust and wild garlic & sea salt mixed nuts are all available in cases of 12. Each jar has a trade price of £3.15 and an RRP of £5.99.

Welsh smoker and paté producer Cnwd is now producing its seasonal Towy Valley wild venison & hazelnut terrine made with venison from Dinefwr Park, a National Trust Estate in Llandielo. For those entertaining vegetarians at Christmas it has just launched a mushroom paté made with organic Shiitake mushrooms from Maesyffin Mushroom farm in Ceredigion.

www.mrfilberts.com

www.cnwd.co.uk

Yorvale has two new additions to its range of Christmas ices. Indulgent Marzipan is described as “smooth with a delicate marzipan flavour”, while chocolate orange sees the firm ripple its chocolate ice cream with tangy Jaffa orange. Both will be available in 500ml, 2-litre and 5-litre tubs for a trade price of £2.04, £6.13 and £15.02 respectively. The 500ml tubs have an RRP of £3.49. www.yorvale.co.uk

This year’s seasonal special from La Tua Pasta is handmade tortelloni filled with cranberry and goats’ cheese. The pasta (RRP £5.95), which is made with Soignon goats’ cheese and dried cranberries, will be available as a special during December. La Tua recommends serving the tortelloni as a side dish with venison or turkey dishes. www.latuapasta.com

Cole’s has developed a gluten-free Christmas pudding that is “packed with vine fruits” but also free of alcohol and nuts for consumers with dietary requirements. The puddings are now available in 454g and 112g sizes (RRP £8.99 and £2.99 respectively).

As well as its potted meats, Ross and Ross also produces a range of French-style cutting terrines (trade £16/kg, RRP £25/kg) that are available in 1kg wholes or pre-sliced. The range, which is made by hand using free range meat sourced in the Cotswolds, includes duck rillettes, smoked bacon, chicken & pistachio, chicken liver parfait, ham hock & parsley and pork rillettes.

www.colespuddings.com

www.rossandrossfood.co.uk

Fancy a drink? Some soft and alcoholic options for retailers looking to capitalise on the party season James White Drinks will be producing a small 15cl can of Big Tom from this autumn. The firm says that its spicy tomato juice, which was granted a Royal Warrant in 2002, has always been a strong seller in larger volume bottles over the festive period but this smaller version of the drink has been developed with the stocking filler and hamper markets in mind. Trade cases contain 24 cans. www.jameswhite.co.uk

Qcumber, a soft drink made from natural cucumber essence and sparkling spring water, says it has duel appeal for consumers during the festive party season. The drink, which comes in 750ml and newly launched 330ml glass bottles (RRPs £2.60 and £1.60), can be served on its own or used as a mixer with gin and vodka. www.q-cumber. co.uk

August 2013 · Vol.14 Issue 7

bottle of gin and four bottles of Six O’clock Tonic. Its smaller pack (RRP £9) features a 200ml bottle of tonic and miniature of gin.

combination of its Great Taste one-star gold winning original cider or its new Cornish berry cider.

www.bramleyandgage.com www.sixoclockgin.co.uk

www.cornishwine. co.uk

Said to be Britain’s only abbey beer, the 7.0% ABV Ampleforth Abbey beer is now available in two-bottle packs with an Ampleforth-branded glass. The set (trade £6.64-£8.07 each) is packaged in the black livery of the

Juggler, Snuggler, Tumbler and Crumbler make up The Orchard Pig’s four-strong range of winter ciders. The mulled Juggler and the Tumbler, an apple and raspberry cider, both come in cases of 12 x 75cl bottles for £32.04 (RRP £4.75 per bottle). Crumbler, described as hot spiced apple pie in a cup, and the toffee apple Snuggler (both 75cl, RRP £3.50) are available in cases of 12 for £20.79. For those looking to entertain at Christmas, juggler is also available in a 20-litre bag-in-box for £58.52. www.orchardpig.co.uk

Bramley and Gage’s Six O’clock Gin & Tonic is now available in two different gift boxes. The large gift pack (RRP £45) contains a 70cl

Benedictine order of monks that live in the North Yorkshire abbey. www.ampleforth.org.uk

Cornish vineyard and orchard Polgoon has launched 3 x 500ml bottle gift packs, which can feature any

Raisthorpe Manor has launched three products this year that it says are wellsuited for Christmas sales. Its raspberry gin jelly (227g), made with raspberries steeped in London gin, can accompany both sweet and savoury foods. Also in a 227g jar is its sloe port jelly, made with the Yorkshire producer’s own slow port. It has also launched 9CT-branded blood orange Shimmer vodka (70cl), which will appeal to those looking for a different tipple this year. www. raisthorpemanor. com

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The team at La Bandiera continues to use the traditional methods of selecting the best time to harvest the olives to ensure the acidity level is low thereby creating the perfect blend. The result is a smooth yet full-bodied olive oil, endorsed by the IGP in recognition of its quality and origin. A recent winner in the 2012 Great Taste Awards, La Bandiera olive oil is available for delivery throughout the UK in sizes ranging from 250ml bottles up to 5 litre cans. Visit www.labandieraoliveoil.com or call 0207 243 5150

“Very interesting nose – aroma herbs and hay, meadow flowers in abundance, rustic but balanced and the warmth is very good.”

Featuring new Fosters Christmas packaging for eye-catching in store display. New and improved products including best-selling festive favourites and decadent new products like our delicious Fosters Twelfth Night Cake.

Fosters Traditional Foods Christmas brochure available now, with a range of over 800 lines including the new Fosters Festive Offer.

“We Wish You A Merry Christmas” Fosters Traditional Foods Ltd, Great Bowden Road, Market Harborough, LE16 7DE Tel: 01858 438000 | www.fosters-foods.co.uk

Vol.14 Issue 7 · August 2013 FFD FOSXMAS 190613.indd 1

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August 2013 路 Vol.14 Issue 7

olivesetal.com 01258 474300 team@olivesetal.co.uk

product update

speciality teas

A new leaf When it comes to sourcing new speciality teas, the retailer’s cup runneth over. ANNE BRUCE creates her own blend of newcomers, re-brands and range extensions Foodservice specialist Brew Tea Co has launched its first retail packs, including familiar blends such as English Breakfast. Each bag contains up to 50% more tea than other pyramids, the company says. Included in each box of 15 bags is a retro ‘tea card’, with the first collectable set being 12 themed Things To Do Whilst You Brew. Prices are £35.40 for 12 boxes of English Breakfast, RRP £4.25 each. Earl Grey, Moroccan mint, green tea and Fruit Punch are sold in cases of six at £18.90 (RRP £4.75 each). www.brewteacompany.co.uk

Opulent Orange Chilli and Cheeky Cherry Spice are the latest additions to the Fruit Infusion range from Spice Way. Opulent Orange Chilli is an energising combination of orange, orange zest, chilli and cranberries, while Cheeky Cherry Spice is a delicate mix of cherries, banana, coconut, nutmeg and spices. Trade prices are £2.95 for 100g (RRP £4.75) or £4.80 for 175g (RRP £6.75). The tea is also sold loose at £22.50/kg. www.spicewayuk.com

New artisan tea company Morynga has launched a range of blends using the vitamin and mineral-rich leaves of the Moringa Oleifera tree, which is native to parts of Africa and Asia. Each leaf is said to contain seven times the vitamin C of oranges, four times the vitamin A of carrots, four times the calcium of milk, three times the potassium of bananas and twice the protein of yoghurt. The new range of 15 tea bag packs includes Moringa Whole Leaf (RRP £4.99), Moringa with ginger & cloves (RRP £5.49) and Moringa with hibiscus & cinnamon at £5.75. A Christmas special J & Tea is also included: a blend with Juniper berries and citrus notes, based on the flavours of gin & tonic, RRP £5.99. www.morynga.com

l Just arrived from Thailand is Harmonic Cha-Yen, organic tea made from only the youngest leaves of the plant. A blend of Thai black tea and spices, it can be served hot or cold. RRP is £2.89. www.harmonictea.com

l The “leaf tea expert” eteaket has launched a range of tea bags based on its best-selling loose teas, including Royal Earl Grey, Blooming Marvellous and Cranberry Apple Riot. RRPs start at £4.50 for 15 bags. www.eteaket.co.uk

l Keith Spicer is raising the profile of its Tea India brand through a tie-up with TV chef and food writer Ravinder Bhogal. The Cook In Boots author has devised recipes to complement Tea India’s speciality chai variants and black tea, which will be promoted in consumer press and online. A spokesman says the Tea India range, including Great Taste award-winning vanilla, masala and cardamom chais, is pitched at “highend, aspirational” shoppers. www.teaindia.co.uk

l Choi Time has launched Orange A new Korean range from Momo Cha Fine Teas includes three limited-volume organic green tea rarities. The Daejak, Joongjak and Woojeon teas come from wild tea plants in the oldest growing area in South Korea, Jiri Mountain. Daejak and Joongjak teas are made partly by hand and Woojeon made entirely by hand. Woojeon leaves can also be eaten, dry or after infusing. The teas, which come in 25g and 50g resealable packs, can be served for at least five brews. Daejak has a RRP of £15 for 50g or £9 for 25g. Joongjak’s RRP is £18 for 50g and £10 for 25g. Woojeon is £39 for 50g or £19 for 25g. A Christmas Korean set with 25g of each tea is also available, RRP £40, and there is a connoisseur version with 50g of each tea (RRP £75). www.momochafineteas.com

Top sellers…

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es ermint leav Teapigs pepp nglish at Rift tea (E Birchall Gre se tea’) ou end and ‘h Breakfast bl int n tea with m Teapigs gree anuka n tea with m Clipper gree am arrogate Ass Taylors of H

Ruffle tea: giant flowering tea bulbs, made from white silver needle tea leaves handwoven with an orange chrysanthemum flower. One bulb provides at least 1.5 litres of tea. www.choitime.com

A new hand-blended tea for ale lovers is made using Kentish hops. The Kentish Ale tea from Rosie Lea Tea is produced in Kent using Indian Assam, Sri Lankan black tea, Indian first flush Darjeeling, Kentish Hops, caramel pieces, cocoa pieces and natural flavouring. The tea is available to the trade in cartons of 6 x 50g at £2.69 per box (RRP £3.50 each), as a loose blend and in other formats. www.rosieleatea.co.uk

Abergavenny-based Chantler Teas launched the Welsh Dragon range of six ethically-sourced teas earlier this year. Blended and packed in South Wales, they include Red Dragon, a blend of premium black teas from India and Kenya, and Gold Dragon, a blend of Indian and Chinese teas with the added colour of marigold petals. Other varieties include Green Dragon, with large leaf Sencha, lemongrass & ginger, and Black Dragon, a blend of Ceylon and Assam tea. All are available in 50g and 100g sized triple foil bags and 100g tea caddies and larger sizes of 250g, 500g and 1kg. Wholesale prices start at £2 for a 50g bag (RRP £2.65). www.chantlerteas.co.uk

l Joining a range of spiced fruit and herbal infusions from supplier Kandula is strawberry hibiscus iced tea. This is made using whole Sri Lankan spices and real fruit. Naturally caffeine-free, it comes in retail packs of 15 tea gems (pyramid tea bags). Trade price is £2.96. www.kandulatea.com

l Revolution Tea has launched peach mango green tea, a light tea made using full-leaf Sencha Chinese green tea blended with peaches and mangoes and described as very high in antioxidants. A box of 16 pyramid mesh infuser bags in a re-sealable foil pouch has a trade price of £3.45. www. revolutiontea. co.uk

Vol.14 Issue 7 · August 2013

Anyone for tea? Discover our wide range of award-winning teas. Contact us for more information.

For more award winning teas contact us on 0208 568 1322 or email trade@teapigs.co.uk

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'Award winning Novus Tea' If you don't stock Novus Tea, perhaps you should? Call now for a free sample. We are not the only one's who think it's great, with consecutive Great Taste Awards from 2009 - 2012 2012 - Six Great Taste Gold Awards achieved. The must have Tea product of the year For more details visit www.novustea.co.uk or call 01621 776179. 34

August 2013 · Vol.14 Issue 7

Page 3

Love tea? At Hampstead Tea our iced tea are made using organic single estate leaf tea giving it the clean taste and high quality found in our boxed tea ranges. Better yet, as they’re made using real tea leaves rather than extracts or concentrates, they contain all the goodness of freshly brewed leaf tea. But don’t just take our word for it! Our customers have told us how much they love their Hampstead iced tea moments and our elderflower scooped a Great taste Award! To top it all our packaging uses 50% less energy and creates 80% less greenhouse gases. So, good for you and great for the environment too! info@hampsteadtea.com Hampstead Tea London, PO Box 52474, London NW3 9DA T: + 44 (0) 207 431 9393, F: + 44 (0) 207 431 3700

product update

speciality teas Top sellers…

Aisha Fabienne’s blend – a mix of rooibos, peppermint, hibiscus, cherry and red berry, black tea, orange peel, heather flower, lavender and rose petal – is the latest loose-leaf combination from Monkey Char. The blend was named after the daughter of a customer. Monkey Char has also created chilli chai red, made with rooibos, ginger, chilli flakes and red peppercorns with orange blossom and safflower petals. www.monkeychar.com

Ingredients, ...at Added xfordshire Abingdon, O

Cotswold oasters loose UE Coffee R Breakfast tea ple & ginger Dr Stuart ap ce on & liquori Pukka cinnam time tea ther Morning Heath & Hea ermint rice & pepp Teapigs liquo

The Teashed has introduced a range of rectangular carton packs alongside its signature paper takeaway tea cup filled with 20 whole leaf tea bags. The new 20-bag cartons ( RRP £2.99) are available from Cotswold Fayre. It has also added two new teas in the takeaway cup format: redbush & vanilla (RRP £3.50) and Jasmine Rose (RRP £3.75). Christmas gift boxes (RRP £4.00 for 20 bags) are also available. www.the-teashed.co.uk

Bluebird Tea Co is now offering its six best-selling loose leaf tea blends in biodegradable silk pyramid tea bags. The range includes strawberry lemonade, MojiTEA, Morning Kick, Earl Grey Crème, Coco Chai No.5 and mint choc rooibos. Blends include ingredients such as pink peppercorns, lime slices, whole strawberries and real chocolate drops. And a new Christmas range includes gingerbread chai, mulled wine and Terry’s Tea, chocolate orange tea with real chocolate pieces.

Traditionally used in Japanese tea ceremonies, matcha is a finely powdered tea valued for its vivid green colour. Clearspring has launched two grades of organic matcha with the aim of appealing to different markets. Organic Ceremonial Grade Matcha is made using the smallest, highest-grade shadegrown leaves from the tip of the tea bush. Alongside that is Organic Premium Grade Matcha for drinking and home baking. Christopher Dawson, CEO of Clearspring, says: “When consuming Matcha you are ingesting the whole tea leaf, which means it has a much higher potency. In fact, organic Matcha contains 130 times the antioxidants of regular green tea.”

LuLin Teas has launched a new blended range in eco-friendly refill pouches. These include festive blends citrus ginger and lavender, chocolate & cinnamon rooibos. Among the other teas are Ginseng Power, Fruity Fresh Hibiscus, Cosy Chamomile & Chrysanthemum, Posh Earl Grey and Breakfast Blend No.1. The teas are available in cases of 6 x 100g refill pouches or loose in 500g catering bags.

www.clearspring.co.uk

www.lulin-teas.com

EqualiTea now stocks a range of premium organic Fairtrade loose leaf teas from its supplier Les Jardins de Gaia. Packaged in silver tins with individual designs, the range of nine teas includes white, green, black, oolong, rooibos and herbal teas with seasonal flavours. Festive blends include Christmas Tea with spices and fruit, Oriental Light with tangerine, With The Angels with vanilla and rose and Merry Merry Tea with cinnamon and citrus. Tin sizes vary from 50g to 100g, with trade prices from £5 to £6.60. www.equalitea.co.uk

www.bluebirdteaco.com

After the initial success of its biodegradable pyramid tea bags, Steenbergs has launched a new range of five popular flavours in see-through resealable black pouches. Steenbergs’ spicy Chai tea and refreshing green tea with mint are joined by favourites chamomile, Earl Grey and English Breakfast to create what the company calls a “comprehensive and eye-catching assortment”. RRPs start at £5 for a resealable pouch containing 20 bags. www.steenbergs.co.uk

East London entrepreneur Joe Kinch says he plans to ‘de-toff’ fine tea and offer something that can appeal to both connoisseurs and music festivallovers alike. Joe’s Tea Company, set up last year, is offering organic fine teas “without fuss, bravado or pretentiousness normally associated with premium products”. Blends include Ever-So-English Breakfast, The Earl of Grey, Proper Peppermint and Sweet Chamomile (RRP £4.50 for 15 bags) and Whiter Than White, The Berry Best, St. Clements Lemon, Minted-up Fruit and Chocca-RooBrew (RRP £4.75). www.joesteacompany.com

Vol.14 Issue 7 · August 2013

Chai Xpress teas for health, relaxation and wellbeing. • Exotic spice blends combining authenticity with a truly premium taste and aroma. Quality blends that simulate loose spiced tea in handy biodegradable teabags. • No artificial flavourings, no preservatives, 100% natural. Choi Time, Award Winning Chinese speciality teas that unfurl and blossom in your cup. Hailed as “the Dom Perignon of the tea world” by the Sunday Times Style Magazine.

• Available in 9 different variants, with 5 caffeine-free options.

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Handmade sweet and savoury preserves and condiments Multi-award winning recipes made with all-natural ingredients A colourful array of products from traditional favourites to innovative specialities Powerful branding and packaging with comprehensive retailer support Call Claire Kent for wholesale information…

August 2013 · Vol.14 Issue 7

Join the Guild of Fine Food for a night when the stars are out… THe GReAT TASTe GoLdeN FoRk AWARdS The most delicious night on the calendar, the most anticipated results in fine food, climaxing in the crowning of the Great Taste Supreme Champion 2013 Monday September 9 2013 at The Royal Garden Hotel, Kensington, London. Drinks Reception, followed by Dinner and Presentations.

Join us in the company of leading chefs, food writers, top retailers and the very best food & drink producers for the biggest night of the year. With drinks – mingle with awardwinning producers and retailers and chat with like-minded food industry folk as you enjoy a Great Taste cocktail. With dinner – Four superb courses, beginning at 7.30pm, created by Royal Garden Hotel chef, Steve Munkley using some of the 2013 Great Taste award-winning foods to

create a magnificent menu of mouthwatering morsels. With wine – fine wines, chosen by The Guild of Fine Food and served with each course along with the story of the 2013 Great Taste journey. BBC Radio’s favourite foodie, Nigel Barden will host the announcement of this year’s Golden Fork trophy winners. With coffee – Tension will mount as the evening comes to a close and the moment when the supreme jury of judges reveals its choice for the

Great Taste Supreme Champion 2013. “Winning Great Taste 2012 changed my life. And it all started at the Great Taste dinner – it was a magical evening and one I will never forget” Peter Hannan, Hannan Meats. Lives will change after the evening’s announcements… come and enjoy being part of this celebration. Reserve your seat today, and hurry as places are in demand and strictly limited. Guild members: £114 (inc VAT), non-Guild members: £126 (inc VAT)

To avoid any disappointment, please contact charlie.westcar@finefoodworld.co.uk or call the Guild of Fine Food on 01747 825200. Vol.14 Issue 7 · August 2013

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Register today to visit your award winning trade event for delis and fine food retailers “I have never been to a trade show where the producers were so enthused about their products. lunch! is well worth a visit for new ideas and up and coming products.” CATHY YANETSKI, MAGIKA’S KITCHEN

August 2013 · Vol.14 Issue 7

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focus on

store design

Outside the box From pop-up shops in revamped shipping containers to iPads built into changingroom seats, lifestyle and fashion retailers are not afraid to innovate. But can the same be said for speciality food stores? MICK WHITWORTH reports.

Boxpark in Shoreditch: edgy and unusual, it challenges its short-lease tenants to think creatively about use of space

arketeers have long enjoyed dividing food shoppers into types: affluent ‘ABC1s’, status-conscious ‘strivers’, casual ‘grazers’ and so on. It’s fashionable to downplay these distinctions nowadays, as we all shop differently at different times. But if food shoppers are getting harder to pin down, food stores remain much easier to classify – especially when it comes to design and format. Across the UK’s core speciality food outlets – delicatessens, farm shops and premium food halls – a few looks predominate. Most upmarket food halls, for example, either go for a variation on the classical, with chandeliers, dark wood and ornate decoration (Fortnum & Mason, Harrods) or the ultra-modern and functional with steel racking and clean lines (Harvey Nichols). In delis there’s the olde-worlde product-crammed Aladdin’s Cave, the Country Living green oak tables and Farrow & Ball paint job, or the minimalist ‘boutique’. And floor layouts – often constrained by the need to incorporate inflexible serveover counters – hardly differ radically. In a few speciality stores the vertical ‘cheese wall’ has helped break the traditional pattern, but that’s no longer the Next Big Thing. And when FFD asks industry-watchers to name the most innovative new shop designs in our sector, they’re

generally left scratching their heads – or citing examples from outside the UK. Harrods buyer Scott Winston, for example, cites trendy butcher Victor Churchill as one of the few food retailers breaking new ground in design and format. But Victor Churchill is in Sydney, Australia, which is a long way for go looking for inspiration. So in Britain, where has the innovation gone? “At the independent level, there seems to be a format that no-one is able to break away from,” says Mandeep Bhaur, head of business

All our ❛clients are

talking about integrating what they do digitally with what they do in-store Mandeep Bhaur

❜

development at retail design agency Briggs Hillier, whose clients range from Harrods to Argos. “In New York or even Brazil you’ll see people challenging the norm, but not here, and I’m a bit disappointed in that.”

In particular, Bhaur points to the way retailers in other sectors are integrating technology with the shopping experience, especially to court the younger customer. “Fashion has embraced technology, whether it be virtual fitting rooms [enabling customers to try out different clothing combinations online using a virtual mannequin] or sunglasses stores where you can design your own glasses. “For Bank fashion, we put in seating with iPads where shoppers can browse the range. But I haven’t seen that integration of technology

Hotel Chocolat has put in smallbatch roast & conch operations in stores in London and Copenhagen, adding a new level of in-store theatre and provenance Vol.14 Issue 7 · August 2013

store design

focus on into food retail.” Maybe fine food and technology are not seen as natural bedfellows? “But isn’t that a bit naïve?” asks Bhaur. “Doesn’t it mean people are not using the tools available to them in the marketplace?” For example, he says, giving access in-store to an online catalogue of food and drink is one way retailers could expand their range despite the physical constraints of their premises. It could even enable them to move into new, non-traditional locations. A British food deli might work well in an airport environment, Bhaur says, if it showcased home-grown classics like Stilton and pork pies but offered the option of having these and a wider range of products delivered anywhere in the world. “It’s about capturing people while they’re in the mood to shop,” he says. One of the words of the moment in big retailing is “omnichannel”, he continues. Where “multi-channel” retailers have long exploited different outlets, from high street shops to online stores, omni-channel is about integrating those outlets so the shopping and brand experience is consistent. “It’s saying that whether we shop online or instore, it had better be seamless,” says Bhaur. This could extend to giving shoppers access to their shopping history on their phones or iPads, making it easier for them to place repeat orders whether instore or at home. “All our clients seem to be

Learn about layout Retailers looking for advice on improving their store layout to maximise sales should consider the one-day RetailSchool courses staged in London by display equipment supplier WBC and retail consultancy Metamorphosis Group. Upcoming courses include Visual Merchandising (August 14), Space Planning (September 25) and Christmas Windows (October 16). Courses cost £175 plus VAT and are limited to six delegates. www.wbc.co.uk/training

talking about integrating what they are doing digitally with what they’re doing in-store, such as sending digital receipts to your phone or giving you an online account that records your purchase history.” Even retailers that don’t have a fully developed online shop can bring technology in-store more effectively, Bhaur suggests. “I’ve been into delis where they’ve got daytime TV on, which is not very engaging. Wouldn’t it be great if they had more relevant on the screen, like TV chefs, to inspire people?”

Bhaur says Briggs Hillier has been testing out digital technology with clients like JD Sports for several years, but breaking new ground in retail is not all about integrating with the web. He cites two examples – Hotel Chocolat’s Roast & Conch stores, and the Boxpark complex in London’s East End – where store operators are experimenting with new bricks-and-mortar (or, in one case, rigid steel) formats. “Boxpark is very interesting, very edgy,” he says. “They acquired a piece of demolition land in Shoreditch, bought a load of refurbished shipping containers and fitted them together to create a two-level group of retail units.” Described by its operators as “the world’s first pop-up mall”, with all tenants on 12-month leases, Boxpark has attracted brands ranging from majors Nike and Farah to boutique retailer China Doll. “Using shipping containers freed them to think about how they were going to design each little box to maximize their space,” says Bhaur. “Nike cheated and bought three units, but there were a few food businesses too who managed to squeeze in a kitchen, with a few benches outside, and these little eating establishments are really pushing the boundaries.” Current food tenants range from posh burger business Bukowski to speciality pie brand Pieminister – although there are no retail-led food brands, and Bhaur

says he has generally seen much more innovation among café and restaurant operators than retailers. “The bar is constantly being raised in foodservice.” If Boxpark might inspire food retailers to rethink their use of space, Hotel Chocolat has latched on to the theme that retailers including Harrods and Fortnums & Mason are also pursuing: authenticity, and the need to connect consumers more directly with the product. It’s Roast & Conch cafés in London and Copenhagen allow consumers to see small batches of chocolate being produced from the raw bean – a process most shoppers will know little if anything about. “The Roast & Conch store brings a level of authenticity to the story that I don’t see in delis or even in Fortnum & Mason,” says Bhaur. “The whole look and feel of the place is authentic.” “Hotel Chocolat own their own cocoa plantations, which is very rare, so the idea is to show the process from start to finish, and bring some theatre to the store. People stand there in amazement watching, and it’s very rarely that they don’t buy something as a result.” Not only that, he says, but it’s helping Hotel Chocolat achieve premium prices in a highly competitive sector. Which is surely what every speciality food store wants to achieve. www.briggshillier.com www.hotelchocolate.co.uk

‘Keep it honest and authentic’ “Be honest with your food – and your store,” is the advice from Emily Turnbull of design consultancy Studio Can-Can, which handled the design and branding for organic food shop and restaurant The Natural Kitchen in London’s Marylebone. While Turnbull has worked with clients ranging from Fred Perry to Oxford Street shoe shop Beautiful Otherness, she suggests a food store’s design today needs to reflect the same expectations of honesty and authenticity that apply to its products. That means using as much of the shop’s underlying structure as possible, not cladding out the interior to hide all trace of the building. Use reclaimed materials and just “small elements of luxury”, she suggests (but “stay away from being too rustic”). The design of The Natural Kitchen reflects this approach. “The idea was to create a space that reflected the ethos of the

August 2013 · Vol.14 Issue 7

brand, which is all about artisan, organic food and knowing where the food has come from. “So we left the interior exposed, old pipes and everything, to reflect that honesty.” Exactly how this works might depend on whether your store is an old Victorian warehouse or a 1960s shopping precinct, but Turnbull points to Nudie Jeans’ store in Soho and bulk food retailer Unpackaged’s Hackney café and shop as examples of how “less is more” can work in very different locations. www.studiocan-can.co.uk www.multistorey.net www.retaildesignblog.net

The Natural Kitchen: exposed bricks and pipework add ‘authenticity’

Collectively

Artisan

.Ltd

Vibrant, Functional, Gift & Homeware Ceramics

Collectively Artisan Ltd, established in 2008, is a company purveying beautifully handmade, functional Home, Table Top and Ovenware ceramics from around the globe. We pride ourselves in working with exceptional potters with years of experience which makes each handmade piece both unique and perfectly crafted. The Collectively Artisan range is suitable for the oven, microwave and dishwasher. Our latest collection is a very characterful, vibrantly coloured collection of must have practical items including, Tapas Bowls, Serving Bowls, Place Settings, Mugs, Espresso Cups and Saucers, Teapots, Tagines, Casseroles, Salt Pigs, Utensil Jars, Cake Stands and so much more.

Ideal for men – the black brie baker gift set

We supply many Deli’s, Restaurants, Farm and Gift Shops alike. Do call Hugh Brasher on 07540 840 929 or email sales@ collectivelyartisan.com for more information and to discuss your needs.

Perfect gifts – over 50 new serving and tapas ceramics

Fabulous ideas – sugar cubes redefined

Welcome to the world beyond jam and chutney! www.divinedeli.com

Home-Made Peanut Butter

Purveyors of Confectionery and Fine Foods

A wide range of NEW Christmas Confectionery is now available. Call 01423 883 000 or visit www.farrahs.com

Following on from a successful, winning gold at Wales the True Taste awards 2012 for cheese sable biscuits, Hardwick Hampers have launched Home-Made Peanut Butter for 2013. A class above the rest this peanut butter is truly outstanding in flavour and texture, both smooth and crunchy at the same time. Easily spread on toast, crumpets, muffins and sandwiches. A versatile ingredient, combine with chillies for a satay sauce base, or add a teaspoon to a stir fry for a taste sensation. Containing groundnut oil and natural nuts this product is ideal for the health conscious and is a good source of protein and natural fat, providing a slow release of energy making it a great way to start the day. Suitable for delicatessens, farm shops and small independents. Available on-line shop at www.hardwickhampers.co.uk, to find out more call 01495 446877 or email us: mail@hardwickhampers.co.uk T: 01423 883000 | F: 01423 883029 | E: sales@farrahs.com | W: www.farrahs.com

Vol.14 Issue 7 · August 2013

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August 2013 · Vol.14 Issue 7

shelftalk

products, promotions & people

Stag’s quest for provenance leads to seaweed biscuits By MICHAEL LANE

Scotland’s Stag Bakeries is launching a trio of unusual biscuits made with local S U P LI E P seaweed this month as it looks to gain a larger share of the premium biscuit market. The Isle of Lewis firm, which recently overhauled the packaging across its sweet and savoury biscuit range, hopes its latest creations will provide a point of difference. Its new seaweed water biscuit has been in development for 18 months but was first prompted by Stag’s search for a local ingredient to use in new lines. “We looked at provenance but when you’re sat on the Isle of Lewis it’s only fish and seaweed,” said head of sales & marketing Jenny Burton. “You can’t really put fish in a biscuit.” Burton added that it was only a misunderstanding that gave Stag the idea of creating a standalone range. “We were only going to do a seaweed water biscuit but when I was talking about it to our distributor in China she got the wrong end of the stick and thought it was shortbread,” Burton told FFD. Stag’s new water biscuits, shortbread and oatcakes all come in cases of 12 x 125g packs, which have an RRP of £2 each. EDITE CR

Stag Bakeries range of seaweed biscuits will be in different packaging from the rest of the recently redesigned products

Rather than using a single variety of seaweed, Stag chose to create blend of seaweeds all sustainably sourced from the isle’s west coast and freshwater lochs. Burton said that single flavours of seaweed did not have enough flavour but with these biscuits “you can actually taste the sea”. She said that trials in both the UK and the Far East had brought out a “Marmite attitude” but that feedback had been very positive. “We’re quite shocked as to where it could go,” she added.

In terms of its branding, the seaweed range will be different from the other 12 biscuits in the Stag lineup that were rebranded in June. Burton said that feedback from retailers was the catalyst for the packaging overhaul. “We got told that while our products have been around for a while the sales were not achieving what we wanted them to achieve,” she said. “I went to see Selfridges and they said the packaging was too Scottish.” While toning down that aspect of its labelling the firm also used the re-design as an opportunity to boost its shelf presence and re-position itself, said Burton.

“We’ve made an active push into the premium savoury and sweet portfolio. Fine Cheese Co and Artisan have the market share so we’ve made sure we look nothing like them.” The redesign has already paid off for Stag and it has now secured distribution through Hider Foods on the basis of the new packaging, which is also being carried by Cotswold Fayre as well as several small Scottish distributors. “We’ve got very ambitious plans and have the capacity to do more,” said Burton, who said she hopes to achieve a 250% increase in sales on the previous year. Currently 95% of the firm’s sales are in the UK but, having established itself with a Chinese distributor, Stag has also secured orders from Norway, Canada and Denmark. www.stagbakeries.co.uk

UK Curry Queen targets indies with new brand

This month sees a raft of new releases aimed S U P LI E at festive gifting from P Somerset-based James Chocolates. Among the new lines are popcorn chocolate bites (pictured below) in a 150g stripy cartons (RRP £6) as well as tasting boxes of its chilli chocolate and salted caramel creations. Each 180g box features four different varieties and has an RRP of £10. It has also created the more Christmasorientated sea salty caramel and cool minty penguins in 60g boxes (RRP £4.50) and repackaged its chocolate-covered honeycomb, which is available in chilli or salted caramel flavours, in stripy cartons (150g, RRP £6) for the autumn/ winter season.

A range of curry spice mixes devised by Perween Warsi, S U P LI E the woman behind one of P Britain’s biggest curry production empires, is now available exclusively to speciality food retailers. Launched at this year’s Harrogate Speciality Food Show, Perween Cooking Secrets is a new brand from Warsi’s firm S & A Foods, which among other things makes private label curries for Asda. Warsi told FFD that Cooking Secrets was aimed at independent retailers because the products are pitched at a more discerning set of consumers. “Cooking Secrets targets people who aspire to scratch cook and want the satisfaction of being involved in the creation of the food they prepare but don’t have the time,” she said. The range comprises four traditional Indian varieties – Traditional Handi, Balti, Jalfrezi and Madras – in 100g packs with an RRP of 2.95. Each preservative-free mix only requires the addition of meat,

EDITE CR

www.jameschocolates.co.uk

By MICHAEL LANE D

EDITE CR

James unveils gifting range

Perween Cooking Secrets is available exclusively to the speciality retail trade

fish or vegetables and water to create a curry that serves three people. “The range doesn’t contain typical English favourites such as Tikka Masala and Korma and encourages consumers to try more authentic flavours and tastes,” added Warsi. “This is perfect for consumers who seek out new and different products from speciality stores.” Warsi said that these new mixes fill a clear gap in the market, between

complicated scratch cooking and curry sauces in jar. All of the spices used are bought as entire crops to create consistency of flavour and are blended to a secret family recipe. Warsi added that her experience as a supermarket supplier has given her a “valuable insight” into consumer needs and allowed her to research this new brand extensively. www.cookingsecrets.co.uk

Vol.14 Issue 7 · August 2013

what's new Spice blends

THE SHROPSHIRE SPICE COMPANY www.shropshire-spice.co.uk

CHEF’S SELECTION

EDITE CR

shelftalk

Looking for suppliers accredited by the Guild of Fine Food? Follow the logo

S U P LI E P

Ponthier’s newly re-branded coulis and purées to foodservice outlets in a wide range of flavours (cases of six £1kg packs, £6.30-£9 per pack).

Smoked rapeseed oil BLODYN AUR

Top chefs tell CLARE HARGREAVES their deli essentials

Nick Coiley Chef-patron of Agaric, Ashburton, Devon www.agaricrestaurant.co.uk

www.twitter.com/BlodynAur

Devon Blue by Ticklemore Cheese www.ticklemorecheese.co.uk

The firm has developed a range of World Blend cook-in spice blends. The range includes unusual flavours such as an African-inspired Swahili curry and a Goaninspired Xaccutti curry. It also features more traditional cuisines including a classic Italian herb blend for Bolognese and meatballs and chicken and beef casserole mixes. Each recipe has been designed to create a meal with the minimum amount of additional ingredients. All of the blends (RRP £1.70 per pack) come in shelf ready packaging holding 10 units (trade £12). EDITE CR

S U P LI E P

Edible flower gift packs SALADWORX

www.saladworx.co.uk

The Highlands-based salad specialist is now offering gift packs of its naturally grown and dried blossoms (RRP £6.49). These can be sprinkled on salads or cakes, used in drinks and cocktails or even set into ice cubes. The producer has won a number of awards for both its leaves and dressings, all of which are inspired by locally grown ingredients.

Fruit mousse EDITE CR

CHEESE CELLAR The UK agent for French brand Ponthier is now offering the producer’s mousse desserts in two flavours: passion & mango and red fruits. The new product, which is made with Ponthier fruit purée and soy milk, comes ready to pour straight from its 1kg pack (£8.30 each, cases of six units). This “light and creamy dessert” can be used to create or finish dishes in commercial kitchens. Cheese Cellar offers a full range of S U P LI E P

The Welsh rapeseed oil producer has teamed up with Angleseybased Derimon Smokery to create an oak smoked version of its oil. Blodyn Aur smoked, which is available in 250ml bottles, is the first in a series of flavoured oils and dressings that firm plans to release this year.

Brazilian cheese rolls ATLANTICO

www.atlantico.co.uk

The latest additions from the Portuguese food and wine specialist are these Brazilian cheese rolls from producer Minas Gerais. These gluten- and yeast-free rolls are made with tapioca and can be heated from frozen in the oven. Soft on the inside and crisp on the outside, they are eaten for breakfast, as an afternoon snack or as an appetizer in the evening. Each bag has an RRP of £3.99.

Blueberry chutney CASTLETON FARM

Devon Blue is one of my favourite cheeses, and is also our most popular. It is made by my former sous-chef from The Carved Angel, Ben Harris, with Robin Congdon. They make it from Friesian cows’ milk collected locally in the South Hams. We regularly use it in a twice-baked soufflé, crumbled in a salad or on the cheese plate. It’s beautifully creamy, without being overpowering. It also happens to be my family’s favourite picnic cheese.

Duck breasts smoked by Jacksons of Newton Abbot www.jacksonsfish.co.uk

The Jacksons have been fishmongers and traditional smokers for three generations and their marinated and smoked duck breasts are exceptional. We serve them sliced with a spiced pear salad as a light lunch or as a starter. They have a good colour and lovely moist texture. We also serve Jacksons’ smoked salmon, both kiln smoked and smoked, which is outstanding.

Pimenton de la Vera smoked paprika www.mediteria.com

We use both the hot (picante) and the mild (dulce) versions of this wonderful rust-coloured paprika (pimenton), made by slow smoking peppers over oak then grinding them between stones for eight to nine hours. This paprika is produced from peppers grown in the La Vera valley near Caceres, in south-west Spain. We pair it with a lovely mild, fresh goats’ cheese from Oakdown Farm and the paprika complements the flavours brilliantly – there’s a sweetness, smokiness and a spicy kick to it. We sprinkle it on the cheese with chopped rosemary and a drizzle of olive oil, then grill it on toasted brioche. We also use the paprika on chicken, pan-fried mackerel fillets with garlic and parsley, on hummus and in salad dressings.

Marriage’s Organic Country Fayre malted brown flour www.marriagesmillers.co.uk

We get this organic strong brown malted flour from The Granary, a wholefood supplier based in Truro. It’s a malted flour with small kibbled malted grains. I mix it with Marriages Strong white bread flour to give my bread a lovely nuttiness and texture. The bread has a rich colour and a good crust. I also sometimes put some into my pastry for a variation on a savoury tart case.

www.castletonfarmshop.co.uk

Langage Farm clotted cream

The Kincardineshire fruit farm has produced a chutney using its blueberries – the most northerly commercially grown blueberries in the world. It says that while the chutney has a “berrylicious” flavour, it also has kick from added ginger. The chutney comes in case of eight and costs £1.65 per jar (RRP £2.75).

www.langagefarm.com

This is a consistently good cream from Jersey cows reared at Higher Challonsleigh near Plymouth. We use it in our ice creams and with desserts. We like to use producers from within 20 miles of the restaurant and Langage Farm is our most local producer. I like the fact that the colour and thickness of the clotted cream changes with the weather and seasons as the grass gets richer. We buy it in 1lb tubs. We also use Langage’s double and single creams and their soft cream cheese. Sponsored by

Found in all good delis Cheeses from Switzerland.

Switzerland. Naturally.

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August 2013 · Vol.14 Issue 7

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No one should even consider entering any form of fine food retail without completing the Retail Ready course at The Guild of Fine Food. The two day course is brilliantly structured offering advice on every aspect of the business from insider experts and successful retailers. It gave me insight I was lacking, to feel fully confident about getting started.

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Matthew Drennan, former editor of delicious. and aspiring deli owner

RetailReady is a two day course that will steer you through the minefield of opening and running a fine food store. The course is designed to equip managers of prospective, new or developing delis and farm shops with the business essentials of fine food and drink retailing. The next course takes place on October 8-9 2013. Visit www.finefoodworld.co.uk/retailready for more details and an application form. Call us to find out more on 01747 825200.

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August 2013 · Vol.14 Issue 7

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020 7740 1717 · www.theoliveoilco.com

shelftalk

My pick of this year’s Harrogate newcomers June’s Harrogate Speciality Food Show saw FFD’s MICK WHITWORTH once again present his personal pick of the best new products on display. Here’s what visitors found on the WBC-supplied Editor’s Choice shelves.

at £1.65 (trade). Surely worth £3.95 as a gift item at point of sale? Metro Drinks Folkington’s juices – 1 litre I listed Folkington’s 250ml juices in last year’s Editor’s Choice, but these new 1 litre versions are a visually striking range extension that will look great in the chiller. Italyabroad.com La Celata Polveriera Barbera DOC Italian red wine Produced by the Molinelli Winery in the commune of Ziano Piacentino in Emilia Romagna: dry, deep red and intensely fruity. Great with a mature Grana.

Cheese Cellar Dell’Ami Belotta Iberico loin Moist, meaty, subtly seasoned – everything about this is good. A sit-back-and-smile flavour that lingers. Howdah Peanut Pakoras The flavours in the handsomely packaged new Howdah range are a bit Marmite, but this is the one that did it for the whole FFD office. I particularly like the texture of the crispy pakora casings, and check out the ingredient list: turmeric, asafetida, thyme, black sesame seeds… Just Crisps Sea salt dippers Slightly thicker than Just Crisps’ crisps and a bit more potatoey, but equally snackable, with or without a dip. Nib Nibs Yorkshire breadsticks I’m a tad worried about how these are going to stand up in transit and stand up (literally) on shelf – but what a nice idea. They look different, they’re clearly British and the £2.50 RRP could surely be £3 if the sticks stay in one piece. There’s only one way to find out…

HAPPY CHAP: James Adedeji of Bim’s Kitchen spots his African tomato & cashew nut curry sauce on the Editor’s Choice board. Visitors couldn’t miss FFD’s product selection (inset), shown on rustic WBC display units at the show entrance (www.wbc.co.uk)

Tom’s Pies Chicken, ham & leek pie Thin, crisp shortcrust pastry and a filling that actually does fill to the top of the pie make this Devon-made range popular round our parts, but they’re also listed by River Cottage and Harrods. For me, this is the best of this year’s new recipes. Terra Rossa Olive & tomato relish Much more interesting than “olive & tomato” implies, thanks to the the addition of shallots, garlic and the Middle Eastern flavours of zaatar and dukka. I’ve been stirring it through pasta as well as slapping it on burgers.

Olive Branch Red pepper paste with a handful of fresh chillies A vivid red colour and just the right amount of chilli kick, all packaged with Olive Branch’s usual branding flair. More than 95% chargrilled red peppers, with mizithra cheese as its second ingredient. Womersley Orange & mace vinegar Rupert Parson’s products are regularly stunning, and this is no exception. Try it on salads – or drink it as a health-giving liqueur! Guppy’s Dark chocolate with a hint of raspberry The chocolate could do with a touch more bitterness but the package as a whole looks extremely good value

Bim’s Kitchen African Tomato & Cashew Nut Curry Sauce I’ve stocked my store cupboard with this new “medium heat” cooking sauce. Like all James and Nicola Adedeji’s sauces it’s flavour-packed, but this one won’t overpower seafood or veg. SLOEmotion SLOEmotion No 7 Strong on the cherry flavour and sweeter than Pims, this “gin spirited fruit cup” needs to be drunk with fruit, ice and a (decently lemony) lemonade to save it from oversweet alcopopdom. The label is jolly and a step forward from the usual British hedgerow fruit look – a smart gift and a very acceptable long drink on a hot day. Livesey Brothers Fungi Fusions It‘s unusual to find fresh produce at a speciality food show, but what a great idea – three mixed packs of exotic woodland mushrooms in salad, pasta and wok selections, along with recipes for each selection. A chance to beat the supermarkets at their own game? Vol.14 Issue 7 · August 2013

shelftalk

Feast from the East Deli of the Month INTERVIEW BY MICHAEL LANE

Middle Eastern food may be enjoying a recent boom in the UK, but it’s been at the heart of Persepolis for the past decade

containing recipe tips or snippets of hen you spot the yellow humour. There are some little plastic frontage of 28-30 Peckham shopping trolleys for customers’ High Street, you get the children to use. Then there’s the impression that it’s going to be a little proprietor, Sally Butcher. more interesting than your average “The shop is laid out like the London corner shop. Once you step inside of my head: there’s not a lot of inside Persepolis, primarily a Persian logic,” she says. “Having said that, it food specialist, it certainly packs a works on a subliminal level because punch. people really feel they’re walking into Immediately to the left is a an Aladdin’s cave. counter covered with half-open boxes “When they come in, I of Turkish Delight, baklava and various deliberately leave things sitting in Iranian and Arabic pastries studded boxes for a day or two because with sesame seeds and pistachios. people think, ‘Oh wow, it’s just Behind that are glass tea sets and arrived’. packs of tea from all over the world: “There is that element of brands like Higher Living and Lipton discovery about sit alongside lesser the shop. But I’m known Middle We’re part deli, part also genuinely Eastern specialities health food shop, part disorganised.” and Paraguayan cultural ambassador for When Butcher yerba mate. – perhaps better To the right Iran to Peckham known as the are shelves full author of the Persia in Peckham and of canned meals and on top of that Veggiestan cookery books – is not display sit several sheesha pipes. playing the role of shopkeeper (her From the threshold alone, you can own words), her schedule is just as also make out a plethora of bottles, packed as her shelves. Her third book dried fruits, nuts and bagged spices, is due out next month and she’s including saffron directly imported already working on the fourth. She from farmers in Iran. has four blogs and a Twitter feed that Persepolis is not like most shops she regularly updates, cookery classes you’ll see in the pages of FFD. In fact, to give, events to cater for and popthe rather basic merchandising and up dining evenings to plan. the bewildering array of products And it’s all in the name of pigeonhole it more in the ethnic promoting the business she set up supermarket category. with her Iranian husband Jamshid And yet there’s a personality to 20 years ago. While he still handles the place. The shelves are peppered the wholesaling arm, which imports with handwritten laminated signs

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August 2013 · Vol.14 Issue 7

KS MUST-STOC Persepolis

ffron Persepolis sa ied limes Persepolis dr se petals Persepolis ro rberries Persepolis ba olasses egranate m Kambiz pom mac Persepolis su 1&1 verjuice (from John ved lemons Sara preser & Pascalis) Halloumi umous Persepolis ho se water Al Rabih ro

Between importing and retailing, Sally Butcher has 20 year’s experience of Persian and Middle Eastern food

goods directly from Iran, Butcher has singlehandedly run the store ever since it opened just over 11 years ago. The shop still carries all things Iranian – from CDs and musical instruments through to everyday store cupboard items – but over the years it has widened its remit to include most of the Middle East and further afield. “We’re part deli, part health food shop, part cultural ambassador for Iran to Peckham, ” explains Butcher. It may sound like an odd combination but it needs to be given Persepolis’s broad customer base. “It’s probably about 40% Iranians, who travel from all over south London and the south coast. We’re the only Iranian shop south of the river,” says Butcher. “Of the rest, 40% is foodies or people who come because we specialise in truly unusual ingredients.” The remaining 20% includes Somalis, Turks, Arabs and South Americans as well as convenience shoppers. “We even sell cigarettes,” she adds. “We are a corner shop and we do get people coming in for a can of Coke, a pack of fags and if we can sell them lunch while we’re at it, that’s great.” While most deli owners will have little experience of serving the culinary needs of Iranians, it’s likely that they’ve encountered a growing demand for Middle Eastern ingredients among the British public. London-based Israeli chef Yotam

Ottolenghi and his cookery books are seen as the chief drivers of the region’s popularity with home cooks. It was more than two years ago that Butcher mentioned the so-called ‘Ottolenghi effect’ to FFD in a piece on Middle Eastern food, and it seems that the UK’s need is only increasing. “You get stressed customers coming in, looking for these special ingredients. It’s not just Ottolenghi, it’s anything that’s in the Sunday supplements. There’s all sorts of chefs promoting these ingredients. You get people clutching their recipes saying ‘I must have this’.” With 20 years of importing direct from Iran and more than a decade of retailing these ingredients, Persepolis has always been well-placed to capitalise on this trend. But Butcher says that doesn’t mean other delis can’t get in on the act. “Middle Eastern food fits very comfortably with Mediterranean food. In fact, it’s barely distinguishable. Any deli that has a few olives can easily accommodate a few extra ingredients. “There’s a core half a dozen to a dozen items that customers will go ‘Wow, I’ve been looking for these everywhere’.” These include rose petals, rose water and dried barberries as well as souring agents such as dried limes and verjuice (a sour grape juice). Then there’s the particularly in-vogue pomegranate molasses, spice blends like Ras Al Hanout and Za’atar, and the obligatory Sumak. “It’s not as exciting as many food

products, promotions & people

writers make out, but it crops up in so many recipes that we just have to stock it,” she says, adding that perhaps the most vital ingredient is saffron. “A Persian shop without saffron is like a pub with no beer.” A glance down Butcher’s must-stocks list is a pretty good guide to setting up an ingredients fixture but it’s not just a case of marking them up by 50% and dumping them on the shelf and letting the punters roll in. “I do try very hard to help people with things that they buy because it’s very easy to buy an ingredient and it gets stuck at the back of the cupboard,” says Butcher. There is also scope for Middle Eastern food beyond ambient products and, even though it’s not as developed as she would like it, Butcher does good trade in chilled food-to-go items from the kitchen area and serveover in the back corner of the shop. The small fixture houses three kinds of marinated olives, stuffed vine leaves and dips, including mast-o-khiar (similar to tzatziki) and houmous, of which she sells around 10kg every week. Apart from the falafel, Butcher prepares all of it herself and she also likes to have salads, soups and casseroles available too. Butcher says it’s worth noting that Middle Eastern food – aside from the bread and the baklava – is very healthy and quite marketable to those with wheat or dairy intolerances. There is plenty of appeal on the non-food side too. While Butcher wouldn’t recommend that most delis stock up on their sheesha pipes and backgammon boards, cookware is an easy and profitable upsell. Even with the 75% mark-up she says you can still price things like tagines competitively in the face of “mega rip-off” department stores. “I started doing quite a lot of cookware early on and I didn’t have the customers for it,” she says. “Now, because I’ve got the books behind me, I can’t get things like the

tagines quick enough. They fly out.” She adds: “The profile of the area has changed. The house prices have shot up and there’s a huge hinterland of fairly middle class people with quite a lot of money.” This is one of the reasons Butcher has decided to start stocking organic and exotic fruit and veg again after a previous attempt failed. Part of this plan will include replacing the fridges at the rear of the store with a new open chiller cabinet. In addition, Butcher wants to do away with the wall of Persian CDs next to the serveover (“They’re a dying product for us because Iranians love technology and they’re all downloading like billy-o”) and convert the area into a coffee and sandwich bar. While these plans are hardly grand, even by a small shop’s standards, they’re certainly not guaranteed to happen because Butcher can’t afford the member of staff she craves so badly. Ideally she’d like an experienced retail manager but, when daily takings can land anywhere between £200 and £1,000, it’s tricky for her to commit to a salary. “My problem at the moment is it’s just me. If I’m behind that counter, I cannot physically get to the till quick enough.” That said, Butcher’s multi-tasking is impressive, especially when it comes to juggling her suppliers. Only 50% of the shop’s stock is supplied by Persepolis’s wholesale division, which leaves her to manage Turkish (Gama), Arabic (Damas Gate), five bakeries (including Dina), Greek (John & Pascalis) and several wholefood suppliers. There are also more than 10 suppliers from which she sources just one product. Throw in the pressure of a book deadline or an outside catering job and it’s hard to comprehend how Butcher isn’t a basket case. What’s her secret? “Food shouldn’t be serious. I know most deli owners are there because they’re ‘really, really passionate about it’, and passion is an excellent thing, but the thing that comes after that is a sense of humour.” www.foratasteofpersia.co.uk

Vol.14 Issue 7 · August 2013

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