FFD December 2020 by Guild of Fine Food

December 2020 Volume 21 Issue 10 gff.co.uk

Make yours a mocktail Mix it up with some new low-alcohol alternatives

ALSO INSIDE Crump’s Single Gloucester PDO El Colmado in Bristol Preparing for Natasha’s Law

New look, same awa r d -w i n n i n g p r o d u c t s Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re proud to have been awarded 13 stars at this yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Great Taste Awards, including 3 stars for our Fig & Spelt Sourdough Crackers and a 2 star award for every other product entered.

December 2020 | Vol.21 Issue 10

CONTENTS 5 NEWS 10 SHOP TALK 16 GREAT TASTE 2020 GOLDEN FORK AWARDS

You’ll need to change tack to meet the needs of remorseful consumers who’ve had too much booze, cheese and panettone

25 CHEESEWIRE

By Michael Lane, Editor

33 FOODSERVICE 38 CATEGORY FOCUS: HEALTHY EATING, LOW- & NOALCOHOL 47 SHELF TALK 52 DELI OF THE MONTH 59 GUILD TALK

December 2020 Volume 21 Issue 10 gff.co.uk

I saw a post from a retail commentator on social media recently suggesting that many shops (multiples and independents) have not been as COVID-safe as they could be. It went as far as suggesting most were doing the bare minimum by just putting hand sanitiser out front and plastic screens at the tills. Now, I know that many of you reading this will feel that kind of comment is provocative, given the sheer effort that you and your staff have put into this year’s trading. It is – but you can take it one of two ways. You could be outraged, or you could see it as a challenge. Whether that’s for hygiene processes or a completely different aspect of your business, it’s not a bad thing to question whether you’re doing the best you could be. You can look through a similar prism at Sainsbury’s recent announcement that it will be closing its counters. For some independents, it will seem like a victory, but it

isn’t that simple (see page 6). If anything, it’s a sign that the British public doesn’t want to buy from counters that offer mediocre service and products. That means that independent retailers need to make sure they are offering something that doesn’t just go through the motions. It’s even more important in the context of Waitrose doubling down on its commitment to counters. Look, it would be crazy of me to suggest that you try new ideas this month (unless they’re to do with Christmas or COVID measures) but it’s probably worth starting to make a few mental notes about what things you could improve. And to start planning for next year. Even if your Christmas is better than expected, you are probably going to have to reframe the way you look at those traditionally leaner winter months of January and February. With this in mind, there are a few things in this issue that might

help with this task. For a start, we’ve sought the view of several top retailers (page 5) about what they’re expecting to cope with in early stages of 2021. Then, the pretty sanguine take on Brexit’s impact from Bristol-based Spanish deli El Colmado in this edition’s Deli of the Month (page 52) might invigorate you on that front. And with an eye on next October, we’ve had a look at allergens and how foodservice operations can ready themselves for Natasha’s Law (see page 33). On the buying front, you’ll need to change tack to meet the needs of remorseful consumers who’ve had too much booze, cheese and panettone (hopefully!). Our product coverage takes in a swathe of healthy eating options and low/no-alcohol alternatives (starting on page 38) to ease guilty consciences. But for now, I hope you have a great month selling those deli staples.

EDITOR’S CHOICE Natasha’s Law

Make yours a mocktail Mix it up with some new low-alcohol alternatives

ALSO INSIDE Crump’s Single Gloucester PDO El Colmado in Bristol Preparing for Natasha’s Law

Image: Alison Marras https://unsplash.com/@foodbymars

Often this spot in the magazine features an eye-catching new launch but this month it’s an attention-grabbing statistic. It was revealed recently that just one in 10 indies are ready for the change in allergen labelling regulations that is set to come into force for food-to-go next October. If you are already prepared

for Natasha’s Law and implementing potentially lifesaving changes, then read no further. If you’re in the majority, however, then there’s still plenty of time, and everything you need to know to make sure your labelling is up to date and within the new legal framework can be found on page 33.

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Vol.21 Issue 10 | December 2020

RICH VOLCANIC C H O C O L AT E

L U X U R Y I S N O W V E G A N. ITâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S ALSO DAIRY FREE AND NUT FREE.

D I S C O V E R T H E C O L L E C T I O N AT W W W. F I R E T R E E C H O C O L AT E .C O M

December 2020 | Vol.21 Issue 10

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17/11/2020 16:41

NEWS

Retailers urged to stay positive in face of further disruption to the industry in 2021 By Greg Pitcher

Independent food bosses have urged fellow retailers to stay positive and keep a focus on customer service as the sector enters a challenging new year. With Brexit set to be finalised on New Year’s Eve, and restrictions due to the pandemic still likely to be in force, 2021 will be greeted with apprehension by many. But several retailers told FFD that businesses in the sector could survive the turbulent period – as long as they stayed positive, patient and prepared. Antonio Picciuto, owner of Hertfordshire’s Buongiorno Italia, called for a clear focus on the sector’s strengths next year. “We should all concentrate on doing what we do best: good food, good value and amazing service in a clean fullystocked store,” he said. Picciuto added that it was critical to avoid giving customers the impression

The supply chain, especially for Continental goods, is a concern

a store was struggling. “Posters in the window saying, ‘Please support us’ or ‘Shop local’ give vibes of desperation,” he warned. Rob Copley, co-owner fo Farmer Copley’s and chairman of the Farm Retail Association, said the first quarter of 2021 was a good time for businesses to reflect and improve. “Look at what you did well this year and what you’re going stop, start and

continue,” he said. “Look at your fixed and variable costs, your marketing and buying strategies. Analyse your business.” Copley said looking after staff and suppliers would be even more important than usual at the start of next year. “It’s a good time to sit down with the individuals and ask how they are. Can we do some customer service training? Can we

WHAT THEY ARE SAYING ABOUT...

improve customer service behind the mask? “We can expect Brexit to cause problems with product supply – we need to hug our suppliers. We can sit them down and ask how they are and how we can help each other.” Jennie Allen, founder of Bayley & Sage, which has stores across south west London, said independent food retailers should take heart from surviving 2020. “COVID has given us a lot more confidence in dealing with supply issues,” she said. “We’ve found British alternatives. We’ve shrunk our product range. We know what we can cope with.” James Rutter, managing director at Paxton & Whitfield, agreed. “This has been a year of change and we have learned to be pragmatic,” he said. “It is important that we remain pragmatic into 2021 and ready to react to situations as and when it’s necessary.”

British Independent Retailers Association (BIRA) chief executive Andrew Goodacre has called for more support including a Shop Out to Help Out subsidy scheme for customers spending money in independent stores. “This is the only way the high street will get through this very challenging time,” he warned. The call comes after the announcement that employers will be able to furlough workers throughout the first quarter of 2021 after Rishi Sunak announced a fresh package of support measures on Guy Fawkes Day. The Chancellor said the Coronavirus Job Retention Scheme – initially due to end on 31 October and then extended to 2 December – would now run until 31 March. Employers will initially only have to make National Insurance and pension payments to furloughed staff but a review in January will decide whether to add a contribution to wages. Ministers previously announced

Rishi Sunak is being urged by BIRA to subsidise consumer spending in small shops

a Job Support Scheme to replace the furlough initiative. This would have seen the government, the employer and the employee share the cost of unworked time where at least a third of pre-pandemic hours were worked. This has now been postponed and workers on a firm’s payroll on 23rd September but since let go can be re-employed and furloughed under the terms of the

latest initiative. Meanwhile the self-employed can claim a grant of up to £7,500, based on their average trading profits, to cover the three months to the end of January. And local authorities will share £1.1 billion to support businesses affected by the virus as they see fit. BIRA chief executive Goodacre said he was “grateful” for the measures.

HM Treasury Flickr

BIRA calls for Sunak to launch ‘Shop Out To Help Out’ scheme

CONCERNS FOR THE NEW YEAR JENNIE ALLEN FOUNDER BAYLEY & SAGE

I don’t think anyone will be skiing, and we assume people won’t be doing dry January – we’re not worried about the demand side of the business. We are much more worried about the supply side. Brexit transition is preying on our minds – do we have a trade deal? What will tariffs be if we don’t? Will lorries get through Dover? ROB COPLEY CHAIRMAN, FARM RETAIL ASSOCIATION

I don’t know any food retailer that makes a profit in January. There is never a good time to have reduced trade but you know it will happen. Training, training, training and more training is my advice. Gear your team up to give customers an amazing experience as we can only win on experience. ANTONIO PICCIUTO OWNER, BUONGIORNO ITALIA

There are some really difficult times ahead, and yes we have to keep an eye on overheads but we can only trim so much. What we can do in improving our offering is endless. The Christmas trading period is when more people come in store – it can be a fantastic advert for your store which will pay off well into the New Year.

Vol.21 Issue 10 | December 2020

NEWS

CYBER CRIME

Supermarket deli closures show how COVID has changed British shopping habits... By Greg Pitcher

The closure of all Sainsbury’s deli counters should be seen as a warning to independent food retailers as well as an opportunity, commentators have cautioned. The supermarket giant announced in November that it would not reopen the cheese, cooked meat and nibble counters it closed at the start of the pandemic. Both Tesco and Asda have previously announced plans to close certain fresh food counters, and Sainsbury’s said COVID-19 had accelerated changing customer habits. While independent food retailers said the move could create extra footfall for their stores, they also called for a focus on what differentiates specialists from the chains. Stefano Cuomo, managing director of Kentbased food destination Macknade, said small businesses could still suffer the same fate as many

supermarket counters. “If you feel the supermarkets are too much competition, there’s a problem with your business model,” he warned. “I see plenty of lazy specialist shops who don’t offer anything more than a supermarket does – if that’s what your business is then you could struggle.” Cuomo said many supermarkets had failed to create authentic delicatessen experiences. “If someone not trained in the product is handing you pre-cut cheese it’s a sleight of hand,” he said. “People come to us thinking they want a specific cheese but actually they want a nice experience with friends on a Friday night. We can give them the stories of the fields where the cows are kept.” Jen Grimstone-Jones, co-owner of Cheese Etc. The Pangbourne Cheese Shop in Berkshire, agreed that delis had to be at their best to survive in the current climate.

Independent counters need maintain their high standards

“Each and every customer is important and people are always much quicker to shout about bad service than good,” she said. “People come to a shop like ours as much for the shopping experience as the products that we sell. We spend time caring for our cheese and we know the history of each one.” Gemma Aykroyd, owner of The Cheeseboard of Harrogate, said the

coronavirus could be changing the face of British food shopping. “Perhaps Sainsbury’s closed their deli counters because people were taking their business to the local food shops instead,” she said. “I don’t think people will go back to old habits now they have experienced the ease, joy, friendliness and quality of buying from smaller shops.”

Counter IN BRIEF perspective

Love them orFine loathe Walter Smith Foods has announced the deli them, supermarket closure of have three astores counters place in the Midlands. history – and The a role to butcher chain revealed play in the independent over that its foodChristmas retail. market Denby Village, Westthem “I used to love Bromwich and Coventry as a kid,” said Cuomo. shops would stop “Tasting food puttrading, on leaving with outlets top, andit it got11me into – many which are within what aofdeli was about. garden “Partcentres. of our strategy has been creating a deli counter that Tracklements has doesn’t look dissimilar hired Bencustomers Hallam forsee to what the role of commercial in supermarkets so manager, which includes they feel comfortable identifying new market approaching.” opportunities. Hallam Grimstone-Jones joins the“We Wiltshire-based added: have a condiment specialist after few customers a week 11 years at that dairythey firm Yeo comment Valley. used to be able to buy a particular cheese in their local supermarket Health food retailer but now they can’t. Planet has It doesOrganic push more moved into our the hot food customers way.” delivery market and And Aykroyd said: teamed upawith high-end “We have Marks & service Supper, whichthe Spencer just round will courier a selection corner from our shop of to-gohelps itemsfootfall and sushi which as from twoshop Central London people there, then stores. come to us.”

... but Waitrose remains committed to serveovers Waitrose has moved to differentiate itself from rival supermarkets by announcing its commitment to its food service counters. The upmarket grocer said it was offering new products for the Christmas period and relaunching its counter range online. Jackie Wharton, director of category proposition at Waitrose, said counters remained “a key reason why many people shop with us”. “Having tripled our slot capacity to over 200,000 orders a week and in light of increased demand for online this year, there is now a huge opportunity for us to offer our counter range on Waitrose.com and we’re excited to relaunch it at the beginning of next year,” she added. “Not only do our counters offer the freshest produce available on 6

Organic food & drink start-up support package launched

the market, they provide something special, personalised and more sustainable.” Waitrose – which launched a Best of British cheese box across 251 stores in May – said it was helping producers reach new customers. “Having taken the

December 2020 | Vol.21 Issue 10

decision to keep our counters open broadly throughout this pandemic, and thanks to support from our customers, they are also helping to sustain many of our smallest British suppliers, who otherwise would not have had a route to market this year,” said Wharton.

A new business support package for organic food and drink start-ups has been launched by Soil Association Certification and UK start-up organisations Bread & Jam and Young Foodies. The package is designed to support entrepreneurs navigating organic certification and the challenges of starting an organic food and drink business and joining a market set to reach £2.6bn by the end of 2020. Jason Gibb, Bread & Jam co-founder, said: “We are really excited to be partnering with Soil Association Certification’s new start-up package to support young, challenger businesses thrive in the food industry. “The scheme aligns with Bread & Jam’s aim to

make the food industry more sustainable.” The business support package includes certification support from Soil Association Certification, access to “meet the buyer events”, free access to bespoke business support and marketing webinars, and exclusive discounts on memberships, events and trainings. They will also be able to enter the exclusive Best of Organic Food & Drink Start-Ups category as part of the Best of Organic Market Awards 2021, the UK’s only organic awards, run by Soil Association Certification in partnership with Ocado. The package launched on 17th November. For more information visit soilassociation.org

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NEWS

Concerns over EU uptake of UK protected food names as new scheme set to launch By Tom Dale

After the end of the Brexit transition period on 1st January, the UK’s new geographical indication (GI) scheme will come into use, replacing the current EU protections, but one industry figure has expressed concern over the promotion of British protected food names. John Farrand, MD of the Guild of Fine Food said: “I’d like to know what the EU is doing to promote this new identity after 31st December – my feeling is not a lot. “My main concern is whether the rest of Europe will recognise these new UK GI logos. History dictates that the Continent is slightly dismissive of our excellent food culture and we are already up against it in that respect.” The three designations currently used on UK products under the EU scheme – Protected

Designation of Origin (PDO), Protected Geographical Indication (PGI), and Traditional Specialities Guaranteed (TSG) – will remain protected under UK law and will be accompanied with new logos to be used on qualifying products. The UK government is seeking reciprocal recognition of these logos in new trade agreements and has made arrangements with Switzerland and South Korea, with talks ongoing with Japan and the EU. But it remains to be seen if the logos will be promoted or carry weight on the Continent. “The UK has fallen behind its European friends in protecting food and drink for decades,” said Farrand. “The impending exit from the EU could go one of two ways. Will UK makers find a sense of place and feel an increased need to use this mechanism to protect and promote their products? I hope so, but

it could feel more remote and just seen as something the French, Spanish and Italians do.” A spokesperson for Defra, the government department responsible for overseeing the scheme, said: “GI schemes are the bedrock of the UK’s overarching strategy to protect our traditional, local foods.” All UK GIs registered in EU schemes by the end of the transition period will continue to be protected in the UK and the EU in the New Year, at which point new applications to the UK scheme will open. Before using one of the new logos, producers must ensure that products conform with the relevant specification and have upto-date verification that has been carried out by an approved control body and must be reverified every

IN BRIEF

The new UK GI logos

three years. “Everyone must make sure that they are using the GI name and logo correctly,” said the Defra spokesperson. Logo use is required on protected foods, beers, ciders and any other agricultural products – excluding wines and spirits – which are produced and on sale in Great Britain. For more information and to download the new logos visit gov.uk

Given second Walterthe Smith Fine Foods lockdown and continuing has announced the COVID-19 uncertainty, closure of three stores south west food The and in the Midlands. hospitality trade show butcher chain revealed The hasthat been overSource Christmas its postponed untilWest June Denby Village, 2021. The show will now Bromwich and Coventry take place onstop 8th-9th shops would trading, June at it Westpoint Exeter.– leaving with 11 outlets many of which are within garden centres. A host of regional and national food groups, including the Guild of Tracklements has hired Fine Food, has Ben Hallam for joined the role forces to set upmanager, Food of commercial From The new whichEngland. includes identifying federation highlight new marketwill opportunithe foodthe ties.needs Hallamofjoins SMEs to government Wiltshire-based condiagencies as wellafter as foster ment specialist 11 consumer support for years at dairy firm Yeo local food and drink. Valley. Read more on page 59. Health food retailer PlanA saidhas to be the etshop Organic moved UK’s first vegan into the hot food butcher delivery opened lastteamed month in market and up Islington, northservice London. with high-end Rudy’s Upper Supper,on which willStreet courier a variety of items offers a selection of to-go products including and sushi–from two Cenburgers, bacon, sausages stores. tral London – made from meat substitutes like soya and seitan. It also has a range of vegan charcuterie.

DOWN ON THE FARM The latest from farm shops across the country

GI products in Northern Ireland Across the Irish Sea, until the end of the Northern Ireland Protocol (the Protocol), different rules will apply. The Protocol is the government’s solution to avoiding a hard border with Ireland. The Defra spokesperson said: “Different rules apply for products made and sold in Northern Ireland (NI). For the duration of the Protocol the EU schemes will be the framework for protection there.”

This means that a protected product to be sold in NI must carry the EU logos, regardless of origin, but may also carry the GB logo if it is on sale in mainland Britain as well. If a product is made in NI, it is not required to carry the new UK GI logos, even if it is to be sold in mainland Britan. Until the end of the Protocol, products originating in NI can be viewed as if they are of EU origin.

A family-run farm shop in Somerset is stepping-up its online shopping service for those that live nearby by upping its deliveries and click & collect slots. Anyone within a 15mile radius of Rumwell Farm Shop can order online and receive a delivery (pictured right) or a click & collect slot. rumwellfarmshop.com A new organic farm shop has opened its doors near Ipswich. Broomvale Organic Farm Shop is housed in a renovated stable block with an outside market stall for those not wishing to enter the building. Broomvale’s aim is to provide quality, fresh local produce to the community, including fruit and veg, jams, juices, and

Located in Paignton, Occombe Farm Café serves food throughout the day and now offers customers a salad bar and handmade cakes. countryside-trust.org.uk/ experience/occombefarm-cafe

freshly baked goods. facebook.com/ benthegrocer Occombe Farm Café has reopened after recent building work and now boasts a new extension with plenty of social distancing space.

The Mile Farm Shop in Pocklington made a quick decision when restrictions on indoor soft play were introduced, removing its play area to create a safer environment for its customers. It has also set up an online shop featuring more than 500 products. themilefarmshop.co.uk

In association with

Fabulous Farm Shops fabulousfarmshops.co.uk

Vol.21 Issue 10 | December 2020

SHOP TALK IF I’D KNOWN THEN WHAT I KNOW NOW... HAYLEY HADFIELD, proprietor, Off The Wheaten Track, Altrincham, Cheshire

In 2017, I gave up a well-paid corporate job to follow my dream. My husband David is a coeliac, which is where the idea of a gluten-free deli stemmed from. I wanted to create a place where people could eat without the worry of cross-contamination and having to explain their intolerances. I knew this was a concept with potentially limited appeal, but when we opened in April 2019 we were overwhelmed by how many people came and how far they were willing to travel. Originally we had 28 café covers inside and out, a cheese counter and a very small retail area selling glutenfree pasta, pies and bread. Then COVID struck. We were forced to halve the number of inside covers and it wasn’t viable for us to continue like that. I thought my business was over. I had to self-isolate for two weeks and during that time I went on various online forums. I could see there was huge demand for gluten-free products, and that spurred me to get back in the kitchen. I was baking one day – pies, cakes and quiches – and delivering the next. This changed the course of the business. We put all the tables and chairs in the downstairs stockroom, created some shelving with vegetable crates and re-opened as a pure retail deli. We went from having a range of 30-40 lines to sourcing over 250 lines from independent and local gluten-free suppliers. We still do takeaway hot drinks, sandwiches and toasties, but the crux of our business is pies, cakes, bagels, quiches and other baked goods, many of which are also vegan. Our best-selling homemade products are Bakewell tart, lemon drizzle cake, cheese & onion pie and vegan leek & mushroom quiche. Although our footfall is lower than it was, spend per customer is higher. We will never know whether the café would have been a success. In my original business plan, I had budgeted for making a loss in year one, then breaking even in year two. By February this year, it was looking like I could draw a salary from the business, and we are generating 20% more revenue each month now than we were – proof that the retail model is working. I think one of the contributing factors is that the supermarket free-from ranges are all the same and mass-produced, which ours aren’t. At the moment, I am just focusing on keeping the business alive. I am changing our website to ramp up click & collect and home deliveries and looking to expand our wholesale business – several local pubs and delis are taking our pies and cakes. It is flight or fight and I have chosen the latter. Interview: Lynda Searby Photography: Ali Groves

December 2020 | Vol.21 Issue 10

CONFESSIONS OF A DELI OWNER ANONYMOUS TALES FROM BEHIND THE COUNTER I KNOW WE’RE NOT doing gatherings currently but surely you remember the “party bag” moment at the end of birthday celebrations? As parents wait to shovel them into the car, the kids – hyped-up on sugar – all scramble for those little plastic sacks, grabbing anything they can. The brighter and the bigger, the better. This is what came to mind when one of my wholesalers described why he can’t get me some of the lines I wanted with Christmas and Brexit looming. Suddenly, I became a child again – looking to grab anything I can. I’m told there is a national jar shortage. UK jars come from China and everything has slowed down, so lead times have lengthened. One month is two months. Two months is four months. Producers have vats of award-winning Grapefruit & Blue Cheese chutney but are down to their last two dozen pots, with the next delivery expected in February. Speaking of blue cheese, apparently there is a scarcity of that, too. I haven’t had any difficulty myself, but there is talk of it from wholesalers. True or false, it’s certainly going to stimulate an early rush for festive orders from consumers.

MODEL RETAILING

You have to choose between stocking very thinly, or heavily and being left with piles of unsold Italian panettone Look, I always play a bit fast and loose at Christmas with my stock. But this year it is at a whole new level. Brands I have never heard of are going to be on my shelves because my regulars can’t be delivered in time. I wish I could do a trolley dash at my favourite wholesaler’s warehouse, but it’s “No Visitors” at the moment. Looks like my last-minute collection there is off

SOLVING EVERYDAY SHOPKEEPING DILEMMAS. IN MINIATURE.

They do know I’m here, right? Should I say something?

Hey, look at this dear!

Pretty sure they have something like that in the supermarket’s deli counter

You’d better check whether it’s cheaper on Amazon before you put that in the basket.

the cards this year, too. At the moment, there’s two options. You have to choose between stocking very thinly – and make the risky punt on being able to reorder quickly week by week – or stocking heavily and being left with piles of unsold Italian panettone. We are going thin and winging it. It’s not just the producers that can’t supply the demand at the moment. I wanted to see my bank manager. OK, not my bank manager but my ‘Regional Business Banking Coordinator’ or something like that. She no longer works in my town and I have to travel 40 minutes to meet her in an office that is identical to the one sitting empty in the branch across the road. It’s just a normal (ha!) planning meeting for next year. Requested in September but the next available slot is February. Still, I can keep filling in the forms she emails me, and the temporary overdraft arrangements will keep rolling over until COVID restrictions lift and we can meet in person. I honestly don’t know if that is a good thing or a bad thing or just, well, a thing. Hey, is that a jar you’re holding? I don’t care if it’s empty, I saw it first.

Can we get some of this cheese?

FFD says: ‘Showrooming’ is a recognised term for the act of buying online after browsing in a real shop. If you think this is happening to you, then address it, speak to the customers, and explain why you’re a better option than Amazon (reduced carbon footprint, the local economy, no delivery charges). Similarly, people will openly compare you to supermarkets, so tell them why you’re better – you might even be cheaper. There’s nothing wrong with challenging your customers’ perceptions, if you do it politely and it secures you a sale. editorial@gff.co.uk

With kind permission of Geobra Brandstätter Stiftung & Co. KG, Germany. PLAYMOBIL is a registered trademark of Geobra Brandstätter Stiftung & Co. KG, for which also the displayed PLAYMOBIL toy figures are protected.

Vol.21 Issue 10 | December 2020

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SHOP TALK

THE DELI DOCTOR Paul Thomas Technical and regulatory advice from the Guild’s deli helpline Q: Is it possible to use the term “-style” when describing a food that resembles one protected by a PDO? For example, could you use Stilton-style or Feta-style about a cheese that is made in a similar way?

A: Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) is a form of geographical indication granted by the European Union along with Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) and Traditional Speciality Guaranteed (TSG). These protections are applied to products which meet clearly defined criteria and are granted in accordance with Regulation (EU) 1151/2012 which covers quality schemes for agricultural products and foodstuffs. Foods which are granted a PDO or PGI are protected by Article 13 of that regulation against “any direct or indirect commercial use of a registered name in respect of products not covered by the registration where those products are comparable to the products registered under that name or where using the name exploits the reputation of the protected name”. Furthermore, the regulation prevents “any misuse, imitation or evocation, even if the true

WHAT’S TRENDING

origin of the products or services is indicated or if the protected name is translated or accompanied by an expression such as ‘style’, ‘type’, ‘method’, ‘as produced in’, ‘imitation’ or similar…”. You are also not allowed to give “any other false or misleading indication as to the provenance, origin, nature or essential qualities of the product that is used on the inner or outer packaging, advertising material or documents relating to the product concerned, and the packing of the product in a container liable to convey a false impression as to its origin.” In accordance with this regulation (which has been copied into UK legislation as of the EU withdrawal date) the term “style” should not be used in conjunction with a protected food name when marketing a food which is not granted such protection. For further information, see the FSA guidance at labellingtraining.food.gov.uk/module9/ overview_3.html Dairy and food safety specialist Paul Thomas runs the Guild’s e-helpline for retailers with technical or regulatory queries. Send your questions to myguild@gff.co.uk

RETAILER SURVEY: FACE MASKS Last month, the ACS reported an increase in abusive and even violent incidents when customers not wearing face coverings were challenged by staff members. But FFD discovered that speciality food retailers had instead experienced largely positive reactions. None of us has experienced any negative behaviour related to masks, nor noticed a change in compliance with the rules. As always, we get a few customers who forget to put them on as they enter and a polite reminder sees them hurrying to mask up, typically with apologies. Very occasionally we get a defensive or abrupt reply if someone is exempt but nothing that would be classified as rude or difficult. CLARE JACKSON, Owner, Slate We are very lucky in our neck of the woods not to be experiencing resistance to mask mandates – my partner however works in a small Coop store and she tells me this is becoming a very common occurrence. Hopefully as a destination shop, and not really a convenience shop, we will avoid such behaviour. OLIVER STUBBINS, General manager, Welbeck Farm Shop & Harley Café

NICK BAINES KEEPS YOU UP TO DATE WITH THE NEWEST DISHES, FLAVOURS AND INNOVATIONS IN FOOD & DRINK

The term “-style” should not be used in conjunction with a protected food name

A lot of our customers were already wearing masks before it became mandatory, and once it did, they nearly all complied. Those entering without masks seemed to have genuinely forgotten – or not quite got into the habit yet. We keep a stack of disposable masks by the door, and if someone enters without one, we ask them if they’d like to take one of ours – or whether they’re exempt. We haven’t experienced any hostility around masks, but some people are quite prickly about scanning the NHS app or our alternative QR code. VAL BERRY, Owner, Haley & Clifford We’ve experienced quite the opposite of what’s been reported. Everyone is 100% wearing masks. I think some are even more careful. It’s a mixed bag really but we alleviate lots of problems by offering our contactless collection and lots of outside seating. NICOLA REECE, Director, Farmers Fayre Farm Shop

1 Bostock With such a wide selection of sourdough bakeries to choose from, it seems quality pastries are the only sure way to differentiate between them. The current mustorder breakfast item in these trendy spots is bostock – a mashup of brioche, french toast and a fruit-laden croissant. North London’s Margot does a version loaded with orange syrup and almonds, while Dorset’s Bakehouse 24 knocks one out made with leftover croissant dough, strawberry sumac jam, frangipane and fresh strawberries. 2 Botanical Rum As rum continues its ascent in popularity, producers are exploring new territory. Rather than developing spiced flavour profiles, a number of distillers are exploring the benefits of botanicals. Mad City Rum uses 25 botanicals including orange, coconut and coffee. Meanwhile Cornwall’s Penryn Spirits has created Bora Botanical Rum, which features nettles and quince in its botanical make-up, as well as bay and plum. These rums offer an added layer of complexity and nuance that opens up in both short and long drinks, taking this classic spirit in a fresh new direction. 3 Take out meal kits The big pivot for producers and foodservice businesses alike has been direct-to-consumer mail order. Many producers have invested in setting up subscription services, while restaurants and cafés have not only pushed their home delivery, but developed a wide range of meal kits. London pizza barons Pizza Pilgrims put out their Pizza In The Post kit, which has since become a valuable contributor to the business. Bleeker Burgers’ cheeseburger kits have grown to the point where they now use a third-party packing company. Meanwhile, giants like Gousto have reported incredible growth and plan to recruit 1,000 new staff by 2020. As an uncertain winter looms, meal kits of all shapes and sizes could prove critical to winter survival, and a lucrative revenue stream going forward.

Vol.21 Issue 10 | December 2020

2020

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PROMOTIONAL FEATURE Love Wales Love Taste

#CaruCymruCaruBlas #LoveWalesLoveTaste Search #LoveWalesLoveTaste #CaruCymruCaruBlas

Food & Drink Wales

Merry Christmas from Wales – Nadolig Llawen o Gymru!

As 2020 draws to a close, Wales’ reputation as a fount of fantastic food and drink has strengthened, with producers continuing their winning ways and working together to spread the message of a vibrant food and drink industry.

Wenallt Hive’s

3-star Great Taste programme Cywain highlights the DESPITE A TURBULENT YEAR, a Award winning range of Welsh food and drink host of Welsh producers proved the Honey Vinegar available and pinpoints their excellence of their products with a with Raspberries location. Cywain has also launched ‘galaxy’ of stars in the Great Taste a Christmas digital campaign urging awards – with three companies consumers to ‘Keep it local, keep it receiving the maximum three-star Welsh!’ gold for their products: It has been a time of new product • Wenallt Hive (Honey Vinegar with development and innovation too. Raspberries) Supported by Food & Drink Wales, and • Mario’s Luxury Dairy Ice Cream Mario’s Luxury its Cluster initiative, several producers (Mario’s Red Cherry Sorbet) Dairy Ice have embarked on collaborative • Conwy Kombucha (Blighty Booch Cream 3-star ventures. Kombucha Organic Ginger) Great Taste Among them is the first-ever ‘Make Sharing their food and drink Award winning Marion Dunn of Mario’s Red it a Welsh Drinks Christmas’ campaign. successes, and getting the message Wenallt Hive – Cherry Sorbet Co-ordinated by the Welsh Drinks of quality and accessibility across to which won the Cluster, the campaign includes over 100 the public during this year has been Food & Drink Wales producers from across the spectrum of the paramount for Welsh producers. In turn, sponsored Golden Fork from Wales Welsh drinks sector who are holding a range of consumers have eagerly sought out products activities - from events to competitions. with provenance. For three years, West Wales beekeeper Marion While the Food & Drink Wales Fine Food This accomplishment has been helped Dunn has been steadily turning her hobby into Cluster, has helped over 50 members to work by a series of Welsh Government-backed the award-winning enterprise of Wenallt Hive. together to launch a range of gift boxes and consumer-facing initiatives encouraging Situated in the Ceredigion village of Betws hampers. people to buy local and to celebrate Wales’ Ifan, Wenallt Hive was the proud recipient of Undoubtedly, there will be more vibrant food and drink sector. three-star gold at the Great Taste Awards for its challenges for Welsh food and drink The highly successful Food & Honey Vinegar with Raspberries. Not only that, producers to meet in the coming year. But Drink Wales #CaruCymruCaruBlas but Wenallt Hive also received the prestigious if the resilience and passion shown by #LoveWalesLoveTaste campaign - which Golden Fork from Wales - a special award sponsored by Food & Drink Wales recognising them in 2020 is anything to go by, they will ran through the summer months, is set to the best Welsh entry of 2020. embrace the demands and opportunities return in 2021. Creating honey vinegar takes time and skill. of 2021 with the same determination and The original campaign centred Raw honey is first fermented to produce mead gusto. on a series of Welsh food and drink – a process which takes around 18 months ‘Celebration Days’. The approach – before being converted into vinegar with captured the imagination of producers Wenallt Hive’s special vinegar mother (which and public alike, with three million turns alcohol into vinegar). Further maturation online impressions, and will be follows for several weeks to achieve a rich, followed up by a spring campaign Great Taste Welsh Greats 2020 smooth and balanced flavour. The Great to be launched for St David’s Day https://businesswales.gov.wales/ Taste Award winning honey vinegar is then infused with raspberries which impart a fruity (March 1st). foodanddrink/about-us/taste-welshraspberry taste. Also, with support from Port to greats-2020 Says Marion, “Honey vinegar is a unique Plate – a project launched earlier Food and Drink Wales product, being made from honey rather this year to promote Welsh seafood www.businesswales.gov.wales/ than simply a vinegar with honey added. I – Welsh fishers and processors foodanddrink have been working to raise awareness of have been given the opportunity and Cywain Producers’ Map honey vinegar for its culinary and healthy support to access new markets. www.cywain.cymru Conwy qualities, and the Great Taste Awards have And in the run-up to Christmas, Welsh Drinks Cluster Kombucha’s been a tremendous boost. When I started 3-star Great several projects have been devised www.welshdrinksclusterchristmas.co.uk making honey vinegar, it hadn’t been made Taste Award to encourage consumers to Conwy Kombucha commercially in the UK for decades, so winning winning the three stars and Golden Fork will #SupportLocalSupportWales. Blighty Booch www.blightybooch.com help put it on the map.” An online producers’ map - created Kombucha Mario’s Luxury Dairy Ice Cream by food and drink business-led Organic Ginger www.mariosicecream.com www.wenallthive.wales Vol.21 Issue 10 | December 2020

GREAT TASTE 2020

Redhill’s supreme pork and other forks The results may have come slightly later this year but not even a pandemic could get in the way of Great Taste and its final stage – the Golden Fork Awards. While the virus prevented the Guild of Fine Food from holding a physical presentation event, the 2020 winners were announced at the end of October via social media. Here’s a full round-up of all the products, including this year’s Supreme Champion. Free Range Pork Shoulder Redhill Farm Free Range Pork redhillfarm.com

Terry and Jane Tomlinson, owners, Redhill Farm Free Range Pork

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GREAT TASTE 2020 Smoked Pancetta Capreolus Fine Foods

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RASPBERRY JAM “A lovely set and a deep pink colour. An absolute blast of raspberries hits the nose and then explodes on the tongue. Lots of seeds add texture and are perfectly distributed within the jam, which we find irresistible. We felt we could not have got any closer to the raspberries if we had rolled in the patch ourselves.” A Great Taste Judge

CHILLI JAM “Vibrant, sticky chilli jam with aroma from both the peppers and chillis. The sweetness of roasted peppers matches the spicy warmth of chillis. Well judged and well made.” A Great Taste Judge

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MISSED THE ACTION? Whether you didn’t catch the Golden Fork announcements or you just want to relive them, you can watch them all on the following platforms: Facebook: @greattasteawards Instagram: guildoffinefood Twitter: @guildoffinefood YouTube: Guild of Fine Food Visit gff.co.uk/greattaste for details of all of this year’s 1-, 2- and 3-star winners

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CHEESEWIRE

news & views from the cheese counter

COVID ushers in new brigade of online cheesemongers By Patrick McGuigan

The COVID-19 pandemic has created a new wave of online cheesemongers, who have eschewed bricks-andmortar shops in favour of websites, social media and even WhatsApp groups. Thanks to social distancing and lockdowns, there has been a huge shift to internet shopping in 2020, which has seen the UK’s weekly online food sales almost double from £176m in February to £350m in September (ONS data). In turn, this has sparked the launch of numerous mail-order cheese businesses, including Homage to Fromage in London, Cheese on Towcest in Northants

and Côte at Home – an offshoot of the Côte restaurant group. The Micro Cheesemonger in North London was set up during the first lockdown initially as a way to help struggling artisan cheesemakers. Owner and chef Sarah Moore bought whole cheeses from Neal’s Yard Dairy to split with her neighbours, communicating through her street’s WhatsApp group, but this has now grown into an online cheese business, delivering to customers across the Capital, with orders received via Facebook, Instagram and a newly launched website. “People appreciate localism at the moment; it’s been a sideeffect of the lockdowns,” said Moore. “They like that knock

Safia Shakarchi London-based The Cheese Bar launched an online delivery service, along with a new physical shop called Funk

at the door and chat on the doorstep.” New London-based online business The Cheese Collective, which delivers nationally, also aims to support British artisan producers, as well as the Trussell Trust food bank network. For every box of cheese sold, the business will donate a meal to the organisation. “Functioning as an online business gives us the ability to bring together cheese-lovers from across the UK, rather than just locally to us, which would be the case if we’d gone for a physical store,” said co-founder Shivali Best. “Selling online opens the door to a wider demographic, including younger people who perhaps might not think to look for cheese beyond the supermarket.” Mathew Carver, owner of The Cheese Bar restaurant group, launched an online cheese delivery service during lockdown and has also opened a shop called Funk in Hackney. He said the advantages of selling online include lower overheads, especially on rent, but that it was difficult to achieve the theatre and personal experience of a shop. “There’s a much better connection with the customer in the shop where you can tell the stories of the cheeses and allow them to taste.”

NEWS IN BRIEF

Butlers Farmhouse Cheeses has developed fully - and widely – recyclable polyethylene packaging for its hard, soft and blue cheeses. The Lancashire-based cheesemaker says it is the first in the industry to do so.

Oak Smoked Lincolnshire Poacher

Made with raw milk at Ulceby Cross near Louth, Smoked Lincolnshire Poacher is aged for 18 months in 20kg truckles, before being cut into 1kg wedges and cold smoked over oak chippings for 12-24 hours. The final cheese has a dark golden exterior and slightly waxy texture, while the flavour is intense with deep smokey notes balanced by the tangy, savoury cheese. Cauliflower Cheese Grating Smoked Poacher into cheese sauce takes simple cauliflower cheese to another level, adding smokiness as well as a rounded umami flavour. It works best as part of a 50/50 mix with unsmoked Lincolnshire Poacher – a combination that also adds serious oomph to cheese toasties. Whisky Finding cheeses that can stand up to the power and complexity of whisky can be tricky, but Smoked Poacher works a charm. Match the cheese with a peaty single malt, such as Laphroaig, but make sure to add a drop of water to your dram to open it up a little.

A new British cheese guide has been published, featuring profiles of 80 cheesemakers and 230 cheeses with tasting notes and drinks matches. Gimblett’s Guide to the Best of British Cheeses, by Francis Gimblett, is available as an ebook on Amazon and Apple. Terms such as ‘vegan cheese’ and ‘cheese alternative’ are set to be banned after a ruling by the European Parliament on the use of dairy terms for plant-based alternatives. This builds on the 2017 ruling that outlawed the use of dairy words, including ‘cheese’ and ‘milk’, on non-dairy products.

THREE WAYS WITH...

The cheesemakers behind St Jude have launched a new raw milk, washed-rind cheese called St Helena. Washed in brine and matured for around four weeks, the semi-soft 1kg cheese has a orangey-pink rind, fudgey texture and a savoury, nutty flavour. The new cheese has been developed by Blake Bowman at St Jude Cheese at Fen Farm, Suffolk, with support from company owner Julie Cheyney. stjudecheese.com

Chilli Relish Smoke and spice is a classic combination, so look for chutneys and relishes with a decent hit of chilli heat to mingle with the charred notes of the cheese. Try a dab of Northumbrian Pantry’s Chilli Relish, which is made with red and Thai chillies, plus red peppers and cherry tomatoes. The sweet and spicy condiment dovetails nicely with the fruity smoke of the cheese. Vol.21 Issue 10 | December 2020

CHEESEWIRE

news & views from the cheese counter

Singleton’s joins forces with actor for jarred sheep’s cheese range By Patrick McGuigan

Lancashire cheesemaker Singletons & Co has joined forces with actor Martin Wenner to launch new flavoured sheep’s milk cheeses, preserved in oil. The Laythams range of jarred products are named after Wenner’s 160-acre farm in Slaidburn where the cheeses are made using locally sourced milk by Singletons cheesemakers. Wenner, who most recently starred in ITV drama The Singapore Grip, built the dairy at his farm near Clitheroe several years ago and is keen to bring dairy sheep back to the area by

developing a flock of up to 300 Lacaune ewes in the coming years. Longridge-based Singletons, best known for making Beacon Fell Lancashire, Bowland Cheddar and Parlick sheep’s milk cheese, began renting the dairy to trial batches of new speciality cheeses, but soon started working with Wenner to develop the new Laythamsbranded products. Made with pasteurised ewes’ milk from Simon Stott in nearby Chipping, the semisoft cheeses are named after Wenner’s children and nephew, and come in four flavours developed by the actor in his

family kitchen using extra virgin olive oil and rapeseed oil, as well as essential oils. “I’ve been really interested in essential oils for a long time and used in the right way they enhance and complement the other flavours,” he said. The cheeses, which are due to launch in January, can be stored at ambient temperatures and are expected to have a shelf-life of several months. “They work as an aperitif, but also in salads and on pizza,” said Wenner. “We have the capacity to make two tonnes of cheese a week at Laythams so we’ll be developing more new products next year.”

Singletons teamed up with actor Martin Wenner to create the Laythams range of cheeses in oil

CHEESE IN PROFILE with Pecorino Sardo DOP What’s the story? Pecorino Sardo is a hard cheese from the Italian island of Sardinia, it is made using ewes’ milk from the Sarda breed of sheep raised in the island’s mountains, which are rich with aromatic vegetation. Cheese production dates back to the end of the 18th century, when makers immersed scorching hot 26

stones into cauldrons of milk over open fires. Since the 20th Century more modern practices have been used, with the milk being pasteurised or thermised. Pecorino is produced in two distinct styles Dolce (sweet) and Maturo (mature). Fiore Sardo, another Sardinian sheep’s milk cheese is often confused with Pecorino Sardo. The differences are Fiore Sardo is made using raw sheep’s milk of the Sardo breed and coagulated with goat or sheep rennet, it has more rounded bulging sides and is more likely to be smoked.

December 2020 | Vol.21 Issue 10

How is it made? Milk is collected close to the production area

BEHIND THE COUNTER TIPS OF THE TRADE

and calves’ rennet is used to coagulate the milk. Once the curd is created, it is broken up until the grains are the size of a walnut (for the Dolce cheese) or the size of corn kernels (for Maturo), then heated, pressed, dry-salted or brined, and ripened. The rind is either plasticoated or rubbed in olive oil. The Dolce is matured for 20-60 days and has a blue label, the Maturo for a minimum of 120 days and has a green label.

Leonie Fairbairn, Thornby Moor Dairy, Cumbria Cumbrian cheese company Thornby Moor has long had its own shop, but the way it operates has had to be rethought to make it viable during the pandemic. “We’ve made changes to ensure we are complying with new regulations and to give customers confidence,” says director Leonie Fairbairn, whose parents set up the business. Extra space has been created by moving the shop to a large former cheese store to make social distancing easier, while the company has also developed a novel way to hand out samples, placing slices on individual stainless steel drip trays, which can be set down for people to try. “It’s nice to be able to re-use something from the dairy and it looks hygienic,” says Fairbairn. The challenges involved in handing out tasters has also sharpened her cheese vocabulary. “I’ve been testing my powers of description so I can explain a cheese in just five words,” she says. “It’s something I learned on a course with Mons. It’s difficult at first, but it really helps when it’s busy. I describe our Cumberland Farmhouse as an ‘everyday cheese that melts beautifully’.”

Appearance & texture: The cheeses are a cylindrical shape with typical weights of 2kg (Dolce) and 3-4kg (Maturo). The sweet, mild Dolce has a white interior, often scattered with small holes, plus a firm but springy texture. Pecorino Sardo Maturo has a darker, yellowybrown rind and a strawyellow interior with a hard, grainy texture. The flavour is more intense, pleasantly piquant and salty. Variations: Dolce (sweet) and Maturo

(mature). Cheesemonger tip: Recommend (or upsell) with a Grenache red wine. It is believed in Sardinia that a diet of Pecorino Sardo enjoyed with a glass of the island’s red Grenache (called Cannonau di Sardegna) is responsible for the Sardinians famously long lives. Chef’s recommendation: Maturo is perfect for grating over pasta dishes and paired with fresh broad beans, peas and mint. Dolce is better for your cheeseboard – served with grapes, pears and pine nuts.

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PROMOTIONAL FEATURE

Comté

Comté: Crafted by Generations How much do you know about Comté cheese and its rich heritage? For more than ten centuries, farmers, fruitières and affineurs of the Jura Massif region of Eastern France have been producing the internationally popular Comté cheese every day of the year. Comté cheese has been awarded AOC status, which means that it must be made following the traditional rules that generations have been using to create the cheese exclusively in this region that has integrated Comté into every aspect of the community life. COMTÉ’S DELICIOUS FLAVOUR originates from the raw milk of the Montbéliarde and French Simmental cows of the Jura Massif, each of which has its own hectare of land to graze on. The cows eat grass and a wide range of plants and flowers out on the pasture in the summer, and locally harvested hay in the winter, producing high-quality milk and giving Comté its very special taste, scent, colour and texture. Every single day, the milk is brought in from a collection of local farms and transformed into large 40kg wheels of Comté cheese by small village dairies, known as fruitières. These dairies use 28

December 2020 | Vol.21 Issue 10

the skills and expertise of their ancestors to make sure each batch of the cheese is at its most perfect. The wheels are then moved to local ageing caves and cellars, where ‘affineurs’ take care of the wheels of Comté during the ageing process, regularly turning, salting and rubbing each one with brine solution for up to 24+ months. It is down to their experience and expertise to decide when the cheese is ready for consumption. As a result, one piece of Comté might have a firmer texture with a nuttier taste and another might be smoother with a more floral flavour, dependent on several factors such as the altitude the

cows were grazing at, the time of year and the skills of the affineur during ageing. Each wheel and bite of Comté is therefore completely unique. No fewer than 83 different flavour profiles in six flavour ‘families’ have been identified in Comté. These flavour profiles are as diverse as walnut, buttered toast, artichoke, leather and vanilla. Comté cheese is a firm favourite of chefs and food lovers all over the world. With its array of delicious flavours, Comté is a perfect addition to so many mouth-watering dishes, from gratins and risottos to seasonal salads and soups. Its ability to

melt easily means it can be added to all kinds of recipes, giving each one of them a different flavour.

If you would like to stock Comté and enjoy a slice of the potential profits of this unique cheese, head to www.comtecheese.co.uk/areyou-a-cheese-reseller/ to contact us, as well as downloading promotional materials to support your sales.

Vol.21 Issue 10 | December 2020

Old Winchester back in stock! A very hard 18 month farmhouse cheese which has a distinct nuttiness in flavour and made with vegetarian rennet.

www.lyburncheese.co.uk 01794 399982

Provenance and savoir-faire

Isigny Sainte MĂ¨re UK Office Unit 8B, Oakwood House, 422 Hackney Road - LONDON E2 7SY +44(0) 2070 339 607 - office.uk@isysme.com www.isigny-ste-mere.com

December 2020 | Vol.21 Issue 10

CHEESEWIRE

news and views from the cheese counter

I do really, really like my cows. They all have names and very different personalities. Francis Gimblett

Annabelle Crump

Rare breed for a rare cheese Not many people make Single Gloucester but only Jonathan Crump makes it with 100% Gloucester milk By Patrick McGuigan

JONATHAN CRUMP IS A CHEESEMAKER who has more important things to talk about than cheese. It’s not that he isn’t happy to chat rinds, rennet and scald temperatures, it’s just that somehow he manages to keep bringing the conversation back to his true passion: rare-breed Gloucester cows. “I do really, really like my cows,” he tells FFD. “They all have names and very different personalities. Some are calm. Some are feisty. I didn’t start making cheese because of the cheese. It was a way for me to keep the cows.” To be fair, Gloucester cows are rather special. Mahogany and white with black heads and sweeping horns, the dual-purpose breed dates back to the 13th Century. But it fell out of favour as higher-yielding animals became the norm – until there was only one herd left in the 1970s. Thankfully, the breed was saved from extinction by a group of enthusiasts, with new markets for beef and traditional cheeses helping to grow numbers to around 800 cows. Crump’s herd at Standish Park Farm near Stroud, which he started in 1998, averages 80 cows, 20 of which are milked to make unpasteurised Single and Double Gloucester cheeses. “Gloucester cows give a lot less milk – maybe 4,000 litres a year compared to 10,000 litres from a modern Holstein,” says Crump. “But it’s really well-suited to cheesemaking because it’s higher in protein and coagulates nicely.” While Double Gloucester is made on an industrial scale around the country, Single Gloucester is protected by a PDO, which was secured in 2007 by fellow cheesemaker

Charles Martell. He was a key figure in reviving traditional Gloucester cheesemaking after it almost completely died out following World War Two, due to soaring demand for liquid milk and block cheeses. “Charles was really helpful when I first set up and he remains a good friend,” says Crump, who has always been fascinated by animals, despite not coming from farming stock. “I started with chickens when I was six, got my first sheep when I was 12 and my first cow when I was 21.” The terms of the PDO are loose, stating that Single Gloucester “must, whenever possible, include milk obtained from Gloucester cows maintained within the defined area”. It means most of the six current producers of the cheese only have a handful of the animals in their herds. Crump however makes both cheeses using 100% Gloucester milk. “I’m lucky that Gloucester cheeses are so closely linked to one type of cow,” he says. “It makes us a bit different to other British cheeses.” Crump’s approach to farming is also a bit different. The cows graze on unimproved permanent pastures during the summer and are fed hay from the farm, rather than silage, during the winter when they are still put out to graze almost every day. Calves are also allowed to suckle from older nurse cows for around five months, rather than the more common practice of weaning at eight weeks. Standish Park Farm only produces around four tonnes of cheese a year, split evenly between Single and Double Gloucester. That’s a tiny amount even by artisan cheesemaking standards, but it’s precisely because the business is small that it is successful, with around three quarters of production sold within Gloucestershire, as well as to Paxton & Whitfield and The Courtyard Dairy. “I really like the fact most of the cheese is sold locally,” says Crump. “The way we farm is not common, but it works.”

CROSS

SECTION

Jonathan Crump’s Single Gloucester PDO 1

Nobody knows for sure why there are ‘Single’ and ‘Double’ Gloucester cheeses. It may be that Double Gloucester was so called because it was taller than the Singles, or that the milk for Single Gloucester was skimmed for butter, while whole milk was used for Double.

2 Both Crump’s cheeses are made in 2.5kg wheels with whole raw milk and vegetarian rennet. The Single Gloucester is aged for two months (compared to four months for the annatto-dyed Double) and has a thin rind with very little mould.

The texture is moist and flaky with rich dairy flavours and a grassy acidity. Crump likes to pair it with a glass of perry from Tom Oliver in Herefordshire.

Vol.21 Issue 10 | December 2020

From our family farm in West Limerick, we produce a range of handcrafted, artisan, award winning cheeses including: • Cahill’s Original Irish Porter Cheddar • Cahill’s Original Irish Whiskey Cheddar • Cahill’s Ballintubber Cheddar with Chives • NEWLY LAUNCHED Cahill’s Naturally Smoked Cheddar Other flavours available, contact us on the details below to find out more. The cornerstone of our business is that each cheese is individually made and handcrafted thus retaining the subtlety of flavour that is invariably absent from a mass-produced product. All our range is available in prepack options (200g block, 200g wedge, 150g wedge, 150g block) ideal for a pre-cut deli counter or a retail dairy wall.

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Award winning biscuits throughout our range

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Sweet & savoury biscuits in both traditional recipes and those unique to McKenzie’s Biscuits baked to the highest standards. Now available throughout the UK and selected overseas markets Traditional butter biscuits and oatcakes. Our own recipe herb flavoured savoury biscuits in various flavours including thyme, rosemary and basil Oatcakes

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December 2020 | Vol.21 Issue 10

FRENCH BAKERIES

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FOCUS ON

foodservice

Labels save lives With Natasha’s Law coming into effect next year, is your business ready for the changes to allergen labelling requirements? By Tom Dale

ALLERGEN LABELLING HAS been a talking point in the foodservice industry ever since the 2016 death of teenager Natasha Ednan-Laperouse – caused by an allergic reaction to sesame in a baguette she had bought from a popular food-to-go chain. As a result, new, tighter regulations are coming into force in October 2021, and the Food Standards Agency (FSA) has launched a campaign to help businesses prepare for the change in law. But, according to a recent report by business technology provider Brother UK, only 20% of businesses selling food-to-go are prepared

for the deadline next year, while as low as one in 10 independents are reported as being ready. Natasha’s Law, named after Ednan-Laperouse, will force businesses to be more vigilant when it comes to highlighting potential allergens that pre-packed food items made on site may contain or have come into contact with, as well as be more transparent about all ingredients. Rebecca Sudworth, director of policy at the FSA says that, despite the current challenging times for food businesses, they must check whether they are affected by this change in law and meet its

THE 14 ALLERGENS l l

Celery ereals containing gluten – incl. C wheat, rye, barley and oats rustaceans – such as prawns, C crabs and lobsters

Eggs

Fish

Lupin

Milk

l l

olluscs – incl. mussels and M oysters Mustard ree nuts – almonds, hazelnuts, T walnuts, brazils, cashews, pecans, pistachios, macadamia nuts etc.

Peanuts

Sesame seeds

Soybeans

ulphur dioxide and sulphites S (more than ten parts per million)

Everyone deserves to be able to make safer choices when they buy their food requirements. “It is important to get it right – not just for your business, but for the millions of people in the UK living with a food allergy or intolerance,” she says. The changes only affect prepacked food for direct sale (PPDS), which refers to food that is made on site and at least partly packaged before the customer selects it. To qualify as PPDS, the food item must be enclosed to the extent that it cannot be altered without opening the packaging and is ready for final sale to the customer. The law also applies to items taken off site to be sold remotely, for example at a

market or from a van. From 1st October 2021, labels will have to display the name of the food and a full list of ingredients, as well as highlight any of the 14 key allergens required to be declared by food law (see box) that are present in the product. Meeting all these requirements is what charity Allergy UK calls the ‘gold standard’ of allergen labelling. A spokesperson from the organisation says: “This new law for PPDS foods is a welcome step in protecting people with food allergies which could save lives. “For those at greatest risk, the tiniest trace of an allergen can trigger severe symptoms and in some cases be fatal. We strongly encourage food businesses to find out how the new allergen labelling legislation will affect them.” Café Rhug in Denbighshire, North Wales – part of the Rhug Estate Farm Shop – stocks a sizeable range of PPDS food items, such as sandwiches and salads, and its deputy manager Amy Coleman has welcomed the changes. “I think clearer labelling can only be for the better for both the consumer and the retailer,” she says. “Over the next 12 months, we will be displaying full ingredients lists on all PPDS items. Our staff have already received training on how to implement this, so we will start over winter.” To ensure compliance with allergen legislation, the FSA recommends regular risk assessments, and the upcoming change is another opportunity to perform a “life-saving, meaningful risk assessment”. “Everyone deserves to be able to make safer choices when they buy

ALLERGENS CHECKLIST l l

Food storage

re ingredients stored A in sealed and labelled containers?

I f transfering foods from their original packaging do you have a way of identifying allergens?

re open ingredient packages A stored in sealed containers where appropriate? o you have a spillage policy D to deal with spillages of one ingredient onto another?

FOOD PREPARATION l

o you have accurate recipe D lists, so that there is a clear list of the allergens present in the food you serve? o you have reminders in D place to update records when you make recipe changes? o you wash your hands D thoroughly when preparing allergen-free meals?

hen an order comes in from W an allergic customer, do you have a clear process in place to ensure that the food can be safely prepared and served to the correct customer?

re you aware of the allergens A in garnishes, toppings, sauces or dressings? o you clean kitchen surfaces D regularly so that there is no visible food debris?

their food,” Sudworth says. So, despite having nearly 10 months to prepare for the law to come into effect, there is no time like the present when it comes to keeping your customers safe. Further information and technical guidance is available at food.gov.uk Vol.21 Issue 10 | December 2020

FOCUS ON

foodservice

EQUIPMENT

FROM THE DELI KITCHEN SIMPLE RECIPES TO BOOST YOUR MARGINS

The Foodservice Equipment Association has warned that Brexit red tape could create problems for businesses sourcing imported catering equipment or vital spare parts. The organisation is currently lobbying the government for clarification on rules surrounding EU-manufactured appliances amid concerns that some imported brands may even disappear from the market early next year because of complications surrounding trading arrangements. fea.org.uk The iVide Plus thermal circulator turns any suitable vessel into an instant temperature-controlled sous vide water bath. It is designed to be clamped to any round or flat stainless steel/polycarbonate container with a minimum depth of 16.5cm and maximum capacity of 80 litres, and will heat the water to a temperature of between 5°C and 99°C. The Wi-Fienabled unit can also be remotely controlled via the iVide app. sousvidetools.com

Michael Lane

MULLED CIDER

The range of cider on sale is ever expanding and more and more interesting. There are great lists online for different ciders available in your area, but for mulled cider we recommend choosing a medium-dry West Country-style cider with bold tanins. We’ve also added a glorious kick to this warm drink with ice cider – it adds a deep and sherry-like quality to the drink, which goes a long way to warming up cool nights.

Makes: Five servings of about 250ml each Ingredients: 1 litre cider 100ml apple juice 200ml ice cider (optional) Mulled spices: 1 cinnamon stick 2 star anise 3 cardamom pods 1 lemon and 1 orange, sliced Method: Mix ingredients together over a low heat, until the liquid has come to temperature. Leave, covered, on a very slow simmer for 10mins for the flavours to infuse. Serve the drink warm in glasses.

Recipe by Jules Mercer for Fine Food Digest December 2020 | Vol.21 Issue 10

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December 2020 | Vol.21 Issue 10

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December 2020 | Vol.21 Issue 10

We work with local producers to help identify new trends,bring forward innovative products and grow their business.

Great Taste 2020 NI Regional Fork Winner â&#x20AC;&#x201C; CRAIC Foods Black Garlic and Porcini Sea Salt.

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Bringing our world-class food and drink to your table. Congratulations to all of the Northern Ireland 2020 Great Taste Award Winners. Northern Ireland products continue to be recognised for their Pure, Natural, Quality as our dynamic and innovative producers continue to adapt and respond to the changing retail and food service markets. In this hugely challenging year, it is particularly encouraging that Northern Ireland based food and drink producers racked up 172 awards for products in this yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s annual Great Taste Awards, recognising their innovation and hard work. For more information on the NI Finalists wide range of quality and innovative food and drink products, contact Michelle Charrington T: +44 (0)78 1717 3514 E: michelle.charrington@investni.com

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CATEGORY FOCUS

Catering for the conscious consumer Most retailers buying with the early months of 2021 in mind will be looking for healthy options to give their customers after some festive indulgence. Whether it’s plant-based, free-from or something organic your shoppers are looking for, this selection should provide some ideas. And for those looking to help the abstinent, we’ve rounded up a host of low- and no-alcohol products (from page 42).

healthy eating Mash Direct is making it easier for people to eat their greens, with the launch of a new ready-to-eat Cabbage Bake. The gluten-free side dish combines steamed cabbage with a creamy sauce and Cheddar cheese crumb, but what sets it apart are its ‘field to fork’ credentials – the vegetables are grown on the Hamilton family farm in Northern Ireland. mashdirect.com

Cru8’s new organic, keto vegan sesame seed bagels are said to meet demand for free-from, plant-based foods with health benefits. Handmade in London, the bagels are designed to deliver optimum nutrition – they contain just 4g of carb (compared with 45g for a regular bagel) and are high in fibre and protein. RRP £6.80 for 240g. Trade price £3.75. cru8foods.co.uk

INTUNE has set out to challenge negative perceptions around the taste of CBD products, with a new range of sparkling fruit and botanical drinks designed to “help busy people find their focus using CBD”. Two of the three flavours – Grapefruit & Mint and Elderflower & Hops – were awarded Great Taste one-stars this year. RRP £2.49; trade price £1.40. intunedrinks.com

Billed as a convenient, tasty and healthy pick-me-up for any time of day, Crav’n Morsels are handmade whole food energy bites from Surrey-based newcomer Healthy Snacks. A blend of dried fruits and nuts, these fibre- and protein-rich snacks come in seven varieties, including Gin Spin (ginger, dates & almonds) and Blu Buster (blueberries, figs & nuts). RRP £3.99 for 100g. healthy-snacks.co.uk

As consumers increasingly seek out natural alternatives to refined sugar, Bonraw has brought a trio of natural sweeteners to the table. Made from xylitol, Silverbirch is billed as a tooth-friendly, lower-calorie replacement for white sugar; Organic Panela is raw dried cane juice for use in coffee and cooking; and Organic Coconut Blossom is made from the fresh sap of coconut blossom. bonrawfoods.com

Forest Feast has developed a range of gluten-free, vegan trail mixes with a nutritional profile that is specifically geared towards active consumers. Featuring ingredients such as salted dark chocolate, almonds, peanuts, dried fruit and pumpkin seeds, the sevenstrong Acti-Snack range includes Energy, Natural and Keto mixes. RRP £1.50 for a 40g pack. forestfeast.com

Remedy has applied its traditional fermentation technique to coconut water, brewing out all the sugar to retain the benefits of regular raw coconut water but without the sugar content. Coconut Water Kefir is fizzy, tangy and full of natural live cultures. RRP £1.85 for 250ml. remedydrinks.com

Kent & Fraser is aiming for all-out gluten-free and vegan indulgence with its new Double Chocolate Brownie and Choc Chip Hazelnut Blondie. These impulse bars (RRP £1.10) are hand-made from plant-based ingredients such as coconut oil. kentandfraser.com

Compiled by Lynda Searby

Kinnerton Confectionery has introduced a vegan caramel-filled chocolate bar under its NOMO free-from label. Representing a free-from alternative to mainstream chocolate brands, the dairy-, gluten-, nut- and egg-free bar range has an RRP of £0.90 (per 38g bar). nomochoc.com 38

December 2020 | Vol.21 Issue 10

>> Coffee is a rich source of antioxidants, but you need to drink a lot to get the benefit. Using an ‘innovative’ processing technique that maximises the yield of antioxidants from the coffee beans, LivOn! provides a solution to this problem. There are four varieties – Leggero, Medio, Forte and Intenso – with an RRP of £3.99 for 10 capsules (trade price £2.39). livoncoffee.com

An adaptation of its popular vegetarian haggis recipe, Macsween’s Ultimate Veggie Burger has been launched to fill a gap in the market for a “wholesome and BBQ-friendly plantbased burger”. Featuring gluten-free oatmeal, carrots, mushrooms, swede, black beans, red split lentils and seeds, the burger is said to be made with “real food not fake meat”. RRP £2.50-2.75 for 2 x 114g burgers. macsween.co.uk

Bay’s Kitchen, a start-up that produces low-FODMAP foods for people suffering from IBS and other intolerances, is expanding its range to include gravies, stocks and soups. FODMAP is an acronym for Oligosaccharides, Disaccharides, Monosaccharides, and Polyols. Science has found that a diet low in these carbohydrates can reduce symptoms of IBS. Bay’s Kitchen is already enjoying success with its gluten-free, dairy-free, vegan, low FODMAP sauces. They are produced in its factory in Marlborough, Wiltshire, and don’t contain any “hard-to-digest ingredients” such as garlic, onion or lentils. In May, the producer added four new recipes to this range: Katsu Curry, Spicy Arrabbiata, Thai Massaman and Spicy Mexican (RRP £3.95; trade price £2.37). This month sees the launch of three vegan, lowFODMAP, gluten-free soups as well as stocks and gravies in beef, chicken and vegetable varieties. bayskitchen.com

Palace Culture has extended its vegan nut cheese range to take in two more spreadable organic cream cheeses. Like the producer’s other five cheeses, the Truffle Black Pepper and Almond Ricotta cheeses are made using the traditional process of fermentation, where nuts are soaked in filtered water before being fermented with live cultures. They are then combined with sea salt and mixed with herbs and spices. All seven varieties recently landed in Selfridges’ London food hall, and are also listed with Wholefoods, Planet Organic, Daylesford, Borough Market and Infinity Foods. RRPs start from £7 for 140g. palaceculture.co.uk

Alternative superfood lattes are trending on social media

Having made gluten-free granola for the last 18 months for guests at their Cotswolds B&B, Deborah & Charles Lamplugh took the opportunity presented by lockdown to bag up the recipe for retail. There are three varieties in the Forthay range: Honey, Nut & Cranberry; Pecan, Pumpkin Seed & Spiced Apple and Mulberry, Date & Chai – all baked in honey and Cotswold Gold rapeseed oil. RRP £6 for 450g. forthaybedandbreakfast. co.uk

Kim Kong Kimchi uses aged aka miso to provide the savoury umami note that other vegan kimchis are missing, because it usually comes from fish, claims founder James Read. His “accidentally vegan” kimchi also features gochugaru chilli for sweet, smoky notes and takes nine days to ferment at cellar temperature. RRP £4.50 for 330g. kimkongkimchi.com

Rod and Ben’s has launched a range of single portion food-togo soup pots. Made from wonky veg, the organic, gluten-free, vegan soups come in three varieties – Moroccan Vegetable, Italian Tomato, Puy Lentil & Spinach and Sweet Potato, Spinach & Puy Lentil – all in microwaveable 390g pots. rodandbens.com

Hot off the tray are Snap Pies, traditional baked pies with Yorkshire rapeseed oil and vegan fillings. Creamy Mushroom & Tarragon, Mexican 3 Bean and Sweet Potato & Lentil Dahl are three of the varieties that are made fresh daily and delivered six days a week. RRP £3.49; trade price £1.70. snap-pies.co.uk

Sweet Revolution is translating the superfood latte trend into a retail opportunity with its new Barista Blends. The sixstrong certified organic range, which launched last month [November], enables café culture vultures to create caffeinefree drinks such as Chicory Latte with Lion’s Mane, Beetroot Latte with Ginger and Chocolate Latte with Cordyceps at home, simply by adding milk. RRP £9.95 for a tub (makes 15 cups). Trade price £6. sweetrevolution.co.uk

Tying in with the popularity of low-carb, keto diets, Cheesies claims to be the first 100% cheese snack. One million bags of the high-protein “popped” cheese snacks have been sold since they launched last year in five varieties: Cheddar, Gouda, Emmental, Goat’s Cheese and Red Leicester. cheesies.co.uk

Vol.21 Issue 10 | December 2020

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December 2020 | Vol.21 Issue 10

Winner of a Great Taste 2020 1-star info@cru8.co.uk www.cru8foods.co.uk @cru8foods

healthy eating

>> Fruit snack brand 5th Season has launched an organic range. Each bag of Organic Fruit Bites provides fewer than 50 calories but contains the equivalent of 80g of fresh fruit, qualifying as one of your ‘five a day’. The freeze-dried snack comes in three varieties: Marvellous Mango & Raspberries, Heavenly Pineapple and Fabulous Fruit Salad. RRP £1.49 for 12g. 5thseasonfruit.com

Pilates instructor and mumpreneur Claire Hindley makes energyboosting Amazeballs in her home kitchen in Marlow, Buckinghamshire, using natural, unrefined ingredients. She sells them online and locally for £12 for a box of eight. Flavours include Apricot & Hazelnut, Ginger Cashew, Lemon Turmeric, Cranberry Brazil and Baobab & Cacao. clairesamazeballs.com

Rollagranola has launched its first organic granola and added a keto-friendly SKU to its line-up. Keto Caveman was developed initially with Planet Organic in response to growing demand for keto products, while the Organic & Nutty variety – with its 19% nut content – is the outcome of a project to make an organic granola that doesn’t scrimp on nuts. RRP £4.99 for 350g. rollagranola.com

Doves Farm expects its new organic coconut flour – which is certified by the Soil Association, Vegan Society and Coeliac UK – to appeal to nutrition-conscious consumers, as well as those following free-from or lowcarb diets. The high-protein and -fibre flour can be used to create cakes, cookies, pancakes, waffles and pastry. RRP £3.75 for 500g. dovesfarm.co.uk

In response to increasing demand for dairy- and egg-free treats, Lakes producer Ginger Bakers has extended its vegan range, launching Chocolate, Coffee & Hazelnut Cake Bake. The rich chocolate and coffee cake combines plain chocolate, artisan coffee from Rinaldo’s and roasted hazelnuts, topped with chocolate fudge and hazelnut frosting. gingerbakers.co.uk

Rude Health has overhauled its breakfast range to provide clearer on-pack health messaging (low sugar, high fibre, gluten-free), accessible price points (RRP £2.50£4.50) and dairy-free pairing recommendations. The health food business has also made the entire range plant-based, apart from Ultimate Granola, which contains honey. The range is a mix of mueslis, granolas and porridges – with new flavours as well as revamped favourites. rudehealth.com

Buzzy Blends has blended raw, unpasteurised spring honey from an apiary in Lithuania with natural ingredients such as peppermint, rowan berries and quinces that are freeze-dried to maintain their integrity. These “honeys with a twist” have an RRP of £7.50. buzzyblends.co.uk

Paramount has redeveloped its Aromatic Garden Burger as a vegan recipe. The lightly spiced burger is packed with spinach, broad beans and peas and coated with gluten-free breadcrumbs. Other new vegan and gluten-free lines for foodservice include Spicy Sweetcorn Fritters and Pea & Mint Fritters. paramount21.co.uk

Immunity is this year’s big health trend, and Gusto has been quick to seize the opportunity, launching Super DC – a potent vitamin drink. Founded by Green & Blacks’ Craig Sams and Will Fugard, Gusto already offers a portfolio of organic, Fairtrade and refined sugar-free soft drinks. The launch sees the company dipping its toe in functional drinks for the first time. High in antioxidants, Super DC delivers a mega dose of Vitamin D (200% RI) and Vitamin C (2500% RI) – known for their immune-boosting properties. RRP is £1.99 for a 250ml can. drinkgusto.com

Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall has collaborated with Hebden Bridge kombucha maker Equinox to launch a range of organic fermented tea drinks under the River Cottage banner. The four flavours – Garden, Hedge, Meadow and Orchard – reflect the celebrity chef’s enthusiasm for home-grown fruit and veg and foraged ingredients. Garden is a light camomile tea kombucha with rhubarb and lovage; Hedge is a deep green tea kombucha with rosehip, sloe and juniper; Meadow is a vibrant brew of green tea kombucha fermented with dandelion, nettle and meadowsweet; and Orchard is green tea based with plum, apple and quince. The launch comes at a time when kombucha is experiencing double-digit growth as consumers become increasingly conscious about their health and immunity. River Cottage Kombucha by Equinox launched in September with Waitrose and Abel & Cole in 275ml glass bottles (RRP £2.20). equinoxkombucha.com

JimJams, a challenger brand in the chocolate spread category, has introduced two new no-addedsugar chocolate spreads made from 100% plant-based ingredients. The Dark Chocolate Orange and Dark Chocolate Hazelnut spreads are made with maltitol – a naturally sourced, tooth-friendly sweetener. RRP £2.90 for 330g. jimjams-spreads.co.uk

Vol.21 Issue 10 | December 2020

storecupboard healthy eating ingredients Stoats has launched THINS – a lighter, veganfriendly version of its flagship porridge oat bars. The Edinburgh producer has removed ingredients like butter and sugar to create a plant-based recipe that provides fewer than 100 calories per 22g bar. Wrapped in compostable film made from renewable wood pulp, the bars come in three flavours: Cherry Bakewell, Blueberry & Apple and Strawberry & Coconut. eatstoats.com

low- and no-alcohol

Crafted on an iStill – one of the latest stills on the market – Amplify’s distilled, non-alcoholic spirit promises to deliver “exciting new flavour experiences”. Scents of sweet orange mix with tastes of lemon and bittersweet orange, whilst notes of ginseng, juniper and lemongrass provide a slight bitter edge. RRP is £15 for 50cl. drinkamplify.co.uk

Bristol-born Mockingbird Spirit claims to be the UK’s first alcohol-free, tequilainspired agave spirit – ideal for mock margaritas. Made with Mexican Blue Weber Agave and the addition of the immunityboosting adaptogen herb ashwagandha, the 0% ABV distilled spirit comes in 5cl and 50cl bottles, with respective trade prices of £2.39 and £13.79. RRPs £3.99 and £22.99. mockingbirdspirit.com

MOMO Kombucha has billed its new RaspberryHibiscus variety as the “perfect alcohol-alternative” owing. MOMO ferments its kombucha from organic loose tea in 10-litre glass jars at its brewery in London’s New Covent Garden Food Market. 5p from every bottle of Raspberry-Hibiscus Kombucha sold is donated to breast cancer support charity Future Dreams. RRP £4.30 for 330ml. momo-kombucha.com

With its new 6 O’clock Gin Light & Low, Bristolbased Bramley & Gage is bringing a low-calorie, low-alcohol addition to the booming ‘Gin in a Tin’ space. Containing under 0.5% ABV, the light in calorie and low in alcohol expression of the producer’s London dry distillate has an RRP of £2.65 per 250ml can. Wholesale price £18.60 per 12 unit case. 6oclockgin.com

Spotting a gap in the market for a low-alcohol IPA, Manchester brewery First Chop has launched Yes. Billed as an “anytime IPA”, this 0.5% ABV ale packs an “overwhelming hoppy burst on the nose” and has the added bonus of being gluten-free. Trade price is £24 for 24 x 330ml cans. firstchop.co.uk

Humble Warrior has gone back to the drawing board and relaunched its Sri Lankan-inspired plant-based drinks brand with three new recipes in beer-style glass bottles for the adult soft drinks market. The no-added-sugar tonics are powered by Asian roots, fruit, leaves and spices such as tulsi leaf, mango, green tea, kola nut, turmeric and reishi. the-humble-warrior.com

Folkington’s says an inreasing number of consumers are enjoying its English Garden and Earl Grey tonic waters “as a G&T without the G”. A symbiosis of botanical flavours, bitterness (from quinine) and citrus, the tonics come in mini-can multipacks (8 x 150ml) with an RRP of £4.99. folkingtons.com

TwelveBelow, the agavesweetened fruit tonic brand, has released a 500ml sharing bottle. All four varieties – Classic, Pear & Cardamon, Apple & Mint and Rhubarb & Ginger – are available in the new size. RRP £2.19; trade price £15.40 for a case of 12 glass bottles. twelvebelow.co.uk

Wilfred’s has launched its alcohol-free take on the classic bitter Italian cocktail base. A blend of bitter orange, rosemary and rhubarb, Wilfred’s Non-Alcoholic Aperitif can be paired with tonic for a 0% spritz. RRP £18 for 500ml. wilfredsdrinks.com

These rubs are a novel idea for livening up vegetables and meat substitutes Ross & Ross Gifts has come up with a novel idea for livening up vegetables and meat substitutes. The company’s Veggie Rubs range takes in five different seasonings, from No.1, which is a blend of tandoori spices for enhancing root veg and curries, to No. 5 – a sweet and spicy mix for roasted sweet potatoes, squash and jackfruit. Those that like it hot should try No.4, which is a spicy, smoky blend for stews and chillies. RRPs £3.50-4.75. rossandrossgifts.co.uk

Troo Boost Granola+ SuperBerry & Vit C has been developed through the COVID period to give people a “resilience-building breakfast”. The berry granola is gluten-free, vegan, low in sugar and 15% protein. It comes in plastic-free pouches. RRP £3.99 for 350g. eattroo.com 42

At less than 60 calories per can, Suki’s new Sparkling Tea Infusions are pitched as the ideal healthy alternative to heavily sugared iced teas and fizzy drinks. The two “delicately nuanced varieties” – Black Tea & Peach and White Tea, Apple & Elderflower – are created using hand-picked tea leaves, botanicals and natural fruit juices. Trade price £0.99 for a 250ml can. suki-tea.com

Roskilly’s has tweaked the recipes of two of the flavours in its plant-based Vibe range, launched last year. The Cornish ice cream producer says it has ramped up the fruit content of Raspberry Ripple and Exotic Mango to balance the “coconutiness”. RRP £1.95 for 120ml. roskillys.co.uk

December 2020 | Vol.21 Issue 10

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low- and no-alcohol Growing interest in agave and mezcal has prompted Fluère to launch a Smoked Agave expression of its non-alcoholic distilled spirit (RRP £20 for 70cl). Delivering an “after bite” that is normally only associated with alcohol, Fluère is a floral blend of botanicals produced using steam distillation. It entered the market in October 2019 with three variants: Spiced Cane, Raspberry and Original. flueredrinks.com

Retailers looking for an ethical low alcohol beer brand should check out Small Beer Brew Co. This London brewery, which specialises in brewing classic styles below 2.8% ABV, has been certified as a B Corporation – an international accreditation that recognises commitment to a more sustainable way of doing business. theoriginalsmallbeer.com

Alcohol-free spirit brand Sipling has been renamed Savyll with a view to international expansion. The rebranding ties in with NPD across its ready-to-drink cocktail range, including the addition of Paloma and Whisky Sour to its 250ml glass line-up, as well as the launch of its best-selling Mojito, Bellini and G&T lines in 250ml cans. savyll.com

After being named the UK’s best low alcohol pale ale at the World Beer Awards, Powderkeg’s Green Light has been treated to new artwork. The 1.2% ABV gluten-free Quarter IPA is brewed using a full mash of seven different malts, late kettle-hopped and then dryhopped for a tropical and citrus fruit finish. RRP £1.99 for a 330ml can. powderkegbeer.co.uk

Suffolk’s LA Brewery has produced its own kombucha take on an English sparkling wine and a non-alcoholic craft beer. Its Champagne alternative Sparkling English Rose is brewed with Assam and White Monkey teas and infused with organic rose petals (RRP £10 for 750ml), while Citrus Hops marries the hoppy depths of a New England IPA with kombucha tartness (RRP £25 for 12 x 330ml). labrewery.co.uk

Cider producer Crafty Nectar has teamed up with alcohol-free specialist Wise Bartender to develop a lowalcohol cider that is claimed to have “all the taste and character of a full-blooded cider”. Fresh-pressed cider is blended with West Country apple juice to produce a medium sweet, “zingy” 0.5% ABV beverage with just 76 calories per serving. craftynectar.com

Celtic Marches has followed up the successful introduction last year of its Holly GoLightly low-alcohol cider with the launch of a rosé version. Holly GoLightly Rosé 0.5% blends Herefordshire craft cider with a fruity twist, delivering gentle sparkle, subtle sweetness and a light strawberry nose. celticmarches.com

GO Kombucha, one of the original brands in a nowcrowded UK marketplace, has launched its China White in 750ml champagne bottles for the festive season. This white tea “Komsecco” is described as “smooth, refreshing and perfectly balanced”. RRP £7.50. gokombucha.co.uk

As people socialise at home more and return to a big weekly shop, Bon Accord has launched its three core soft drinks – Ginger Beer, Cloudy Lemonade and Rhubarb Soda – in 750ml format (RRP £2.99).The drinks are naturally sweetened with fruit juice and coconut nectar. bonaccordsoftdrinks.com

Warner’s has created a non-alcoholic alternative to its own farm-grown gins. 90% of the ingredients in 0% Botanic Garden Spirits are sourced from Warner’s Northamptonshire farm – from berries, herbs and botanicals, to water drawn from its own spring. The two 0% ABV variants – Pink Berry and Juniper Double Dry – launched in September after three years of development. Juniper Double Dry pairs spicy cinnamon and cardamom with lemon verbena and lemon thyme, while Pink Berry combines raspberries and blackcurrant sage with a kick from chilli, ginger and Szechuan pepper. RRP £18 for 50cl. warnersdistillery.com

Lowlander’s 0.00% ABV Wit and 0.3% IPA beers have an ethical dimension, as they employ waste citrus peel. Collaborating with PeelPioneers, the Dutch brewery uses discarded juiced oranges and lemons from bars and restaurants to produce these botanically brewed beers. Lowlander 0.00% Wit is described as refreshing and crisp with bursts of citrus flavours, while in the IPA, mango, cardamom and orange peel make for an exotic, aromatic thirst-quencher. Both are available to the UK trade in 33cl bottles. lowlander-beer.com

Vol.21 Issue 10 | December 2020

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SHELF TALK Yorkshire gin maker invests in brand refresh and state-of-the-art lab By Tom Dale

Masons – now known as Masons of Yorkshire – has undergone a large branding refresh and unveiled a new line in time for Christmas, as well as investing £1m in a new distillery and state-of-the-art gin lab. The brand’s co-founder, Karl Mason said the new lab, housed in the Masons distillery, “will create a botanical library, a reference work of all botanicals which establishes the optimum variables for extracting the maximum flavour from each”. “The gin lab was a substantial investment and one that will enable us to really push the boundaries of flavour to create gins of uncompromising quality and become one of the UK’s most discerning gin brands,” he said. With the help of a cutting-edge Buchi

Vacuum distillation unit, the creation of a limited-edition gin utilising a new botanical is already underway at the lab. “For the time being we cannot reveal too much,” said Mason, “but what I can say is that you can be sure it will be different to what people have experienced before.” The award-winning gin brand has also undertaken its largest marketing spend in a national print and digital advertising campaign while concurrently redesigning its branding. Masons said that the brand refresh features a new arched bottle, a new logo and bold flavour colour cues to create a “stronger stand out for the brand on the shelf”. In addition to the gin brand’s new look, it has unveiled a new Orange & Lime Leaf gin in time for the pre-Christmas sales period, joining Masons Original, Tea Edition, Pear & Pink Peppercorn and English Lavender. “Christmas is a key sales period for premium gin, so we are confident that our new image – along with the addition of new Orange & Lime Leaf gin – will help us to take things up a gear,” said Mason, who co-founded Masons with wife Cathy on World Gin Day in 2013. Masons will also soon be introducing a new range of gifting products for Christmas. masonsofyorkshire.com

Flower & White has unveiled a “lighter and brighter” new look for their award-winning meringues. Co-founder Leanne Crowther said the new packaging and logo reflect “customers’ feedback of their experience of joy and delight when indulging in our confections”. The branding refresh aims to highlight Flower & White’s low-calorie and reduced-sugar message, and the company’s focus on ethically sourced fair-trade chocolate and quality ingredients. Flower & White’s new look will be launched in January 2021. flowerandwhite.co.uk

WHAT’S NEW In a kefir first, Chilterns-based yogurt producer Tims Dairy has launched Greek style Kefir. Available in Natural and Coconut flavours, it combines the health benefits of Kefir with the texture of yogurt. The kefirs are lactose free and the Natural flavour contains no added sugar. RRP £2.20 for a 450g pot. timsdairy.co.uk Cambrook Nuts have launched their Great Taste 3 star-winning Cocktail Mix № 6 in new retail friendly jars. Originally created for Claridge’s to be served with their cocktails, the mix features salted cashews and macadamias, chilli-battered peanuts, smoke-seasoned almonds and caramelised sesame peanuts. Previously only available in 1kg bulk bags, the mix is now sold in 170g glass jars (RRP £4.99). cambrookfoods.co.uk A new range of handcrafted spice blends from The Singing Spice Company are based on family recipes and comprise a veggie/daal blend Masalan, Meat Masala, Biryani Masala and Garam Masala. Each product is certified organic by Soil Association and comes in resealable paper packs of 18g (RRP £3.75). thesingingspicecompany.com

Enzyme innovation creates bee-free honey By harnessing one of the enzymes bees use to transform plant-based sugars, Bsweet has developed the first vegan ‘honey’. Now on the market in the UK under the brand name LIKEaB, the honey replacement is created by inverting raw cane sugar with the enzyme ‘invertase’ – which is activated by adding a yeast culture – and then adding natural, organic floral flavourings to create the honey taste. “We have a natural, biological method of making invertase enzyme, which, when mixed with a yeast and first-press cane sugar – retaining all the natural goodness of the sugar cane plant, creates a vegan honey alternative,” said Alan Sheppard of Bsweet UK, the company behind LIKEaB. “We then add 0.15% of a natural flavour which allows the palate to recognise the honey taste.” A group of Brazilian biochemists stumbled upon the discovery while working with enzymes to develop a biodegradable plastic. They discovered they could create large volumes of the invertase enzyme and the idea for a more true-to-life vegan honey was born.

The new product is certified vegan and organic and, the manufacturer reports, has had consumers convinced they are tasting real honey. LIKEaB vegan honey replacement is set to have a trade price of £27.24 for 6x300g jars or 1x300g for £4.54, with an RRP of £7.95 per jar.

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Vol.21 Issue 10 | December 2020

SHELF TALK My magic ingredient

WHAT’S NEW Brixton Gin is the brainchild of London entrepreneur Andrew Murray-Watson, who realised there was an opportunity to launch a gin packed with local botanicals. Brixton Gin contains nine in total, including hibiscus, wood violet and Brixton Bees raw honey. A 70cl bottle has an RRP of £34.95. sales@brixtonspirits.com Belvoir Fruit Farms has added three new lines to its pressé and cordial range. Alcohol-Free Passionfruit Martini, Ginger and Lime Pressé (750ml, RRP £2.70 and Strawberry, Lime and Mint Cordial (500ml, RRP £3.30) join the brand’s range and are made with natural ingredients and free from artificial sweeteners and flavourings. belvoirfruitfarms.co.uk Scotland’s first cider maker has launched the nation’s first cider liqueur. Dunbar’s Thistly Cross Cider has unveiled a Traditional Cider Liqueur and Scottish Fruits Cider Liqueur, both in an initial limited run of 600 bottles. At 20% ABV, each 50cl bottle has an RRP of £28.75. thistlycrosscider.co.uk

Le Tamerici Mostarda di Arance STEFANO CUOMO owner, Macknade Fine Foods This is a stunning single-varietal mostarda from the genius that is Paola Calciolari, ex-chemist turned condimentcreator. Mostarda is the typical Mantovana preserve – taking seasonal produce, ‘candying’ it with such care as to maintain its textual crunch and balanced sweeetness. And there’s the addition of mustard essence to provide a noseblowing punch that, for first timers, is an addictive surprise. It is beautiful with cheeses or meats – the Mantovans would use these cleansing and aromatic condiments with their traditional, festive fatty meats (think trotter) – or blend it into whipped double cream to put over waffles. That said, my wife just spoons it from the jar! Cuomo buys Le Tamerici Mostarda di Arance direct from producer, Paola Calciolari in Italy

New coffee brand on a mission to support women farmers worldwide By Tom Dale

A new coffee brand’s founder has set her sights on helping the world’s women farmers, starting with Peruvian and Indonesian coffee growers. Land Girls, founded by Emma Brown, has launched its first two lines – Fairtrade Sumatra and Peru coffees – which are both grown by groups of female farmers. Brown, who runs a smallholding in Rutland, said that finding the right farmers to work with was just as important as sourcing the coffee. She said: “We source the best Fairtrade coffee beans from carefully-selected small farms across the globe; fair not only in price but fair for the women growers whose hard work shines through in their outstanding produce.” She was inspired by a small community of farmers in northern Peru who work together to produce coffee – and fairer opportunities for their members. The beans for the Sumatra roast are grown by the women of Koperasi Ketiara, a cooperative of Indonesian farmers founded to help them feed their families. On her relationship with independents, Brown said: “From the farms that grow the coffee themselves to the retailers we work 48

December 2020 | Vol.21 Issue 10

with, we want our products to be traceable and accountable. We want to work with real people.” She hopes that the brand will grow and help more women working the fields worldwide. “We plan to work with farmers both at home and abroad to introduce new products and, with consumers’ support, we could change the future for generations to come,” she said. Land Girls Peru and Land Girls Sumatra are available as both beans and ground, with an RRP of £8.50 per 250g bag (trade price, £5.50; minimum order, 36 bags). land-girls.co.uk

It is beautiful with cheeses or meats... That said, my wife just spoons it from the jar!

Family-run rum brand Hattiers has added two new varieties to its collection of blended rums. Sourced from around the globe then blended and bottled in Devon, the latest additions – Eminence and Resolute – join the brand’s first blend, Egremont. Named after famous ships due to the family’s passion for sailing, the rums are combined with Dartmoor water and handbottled in small batches with no added sugar or botanicals. Matured at the source distilleries and passed through a carbon filter to remove the colour of ageing, Eminence is a light to medium-bodied white rum. Hattiers said it is “perfect as the base of a delicious cocktail”. Resolute is a mature, navystrength rum at 54.4% with, according to the producer, toasted brown sugar and charred oak flavours. Emenance (42% ABV) has a trade price of £21.75 for a 70cl bottle, is sold in cases of six and has an RRP of £37.50. Resolute is sold in 6x70cl at £33.25. RRP £56. hattiers.com

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SOMETHING A LITTLE DIFFERENT... Refresh you drinks portfolio with our range of genuinely unique gins, from the ‘UK’s most innovative craft gin distillery 2020’ Three Wrens Bison Grass Edition 41% abv The world’s first gin to be distilled and infused with the mythical sweetgrass ‘Hierochloe Odorata’. Notes of fresh hay and lemongrass with a rich and lingering finish. Brand new! Three Wrens Apple Crumble Edition 40% ABV Distilled with Juniper, toasted oats, apples, cinnamon and sweet orange. Gold medal winner at the world gin awards and highly commended at the great British food awards 2020. Three Wrens Raspberry edition Modena Cask finish 41.3% abv A truly innovative gin, distilled with English raspberries, fresh basil and peppercorns and left to rest in authentic balsamic barrels of Modena, Italy. IWSC medal winner 2020. All our spirits are one-shot distilled in small batches in our distillery, located in beautiful woodland opposite Cholmondeley castle in rural Cheshire.

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11/09/2020 14:36

SHELF TALK MEET THE PRODUCER

WHAT’S NEW Luxury pre-mixed cocktail brand Bottle has launched a new Damson Gin Liqueur. Made by infusing real damsons with Rock Rose Gin for several weeks and trying various levels of infusion until the makers hit on the right mix, the liqueur is sold in 10, 20 or 50cl bottles to the trade at £3.95, £6.95 and £13.65 respectively in cases of six. bottlebarandshop.com

Katherine Swift is the founder of organic premium matcha tea brand OMGTEA. She founded the company after discovering the health benefits of the drink following her mother’s cancer diagnosis, and now funds scientific research into the tea’s effects What were you doing before you launched OMGTea? Fundraising for medical research (Breast Cancer Now), I also have extensive experience in media sales, sponsorship and promotions, and event management. Why did you decide to launch OMGTea? When my mum was diagnosed with stage 3 breast cancer in 2010, I started working with a charity that funds research and spent a lot of time in the research unit. The research director had an interest in antioxidants and, thanks to him, I found out about the potential that green tea had to fight disease. Mum and I started drinking organic matcha green tea and we both felt great. I felt passionate about spreading the word about this green powder and so, five years later, I launched OMGTea. My mum had the all-clear but we both still drink matcha. What is the biggest lesson you have learned since starting the business? Mistakes are inevitable and you need to be able to forgive yourself for them as you aren’t always going to get it right – and very often making mistakes is the best way to learn. Also, it’s been vital, even from the very beginning, to never give up. Keep up the belief, commitment, passion and drive and I truly believe you will get there. What makes your matcha stand out? We source some of the best matcha you will find in the UK and are committed to providing high-quality products and also educating consumers on good matcha. The research we

are involved in is one of the most innovative aspects of our business and it is something no other matcha brands are doing. We want to help people live healthier lives for longer and we are trying to build a community of positivity by celebrating our OMGTea community.

Binary Botanical, a female-founded British beer brand, has been launched to provide a lighter, beer-like alternative to a glass of wine. Available with both 4% and 0.5% alcohol, Binary Botanical is brewed with organic hop leaves rather than the usual cones, resulting in less bitterness. Both variants are available in 250ml and 660ml bottles. binarybotanical.com

product, and this is something we will never compromise on. A great by-product of quality matcha is that OMGTea organic matcha tastes great. We have Great Taste awards across our full range and have also been awarded Great Taste Producer status.

It has to be a quality product, and this is something we will never compromise on

East London independent drinks company Dalston’s Soda Co is making a move into alcoholic beverages with the launch of its new hard seltzer range. Available in Rhubarb and Grapefruit real fruit flavours and made with no added sugar or artificial sweeteners, the range comes with an RRP of £2.49 per 330ml can. dalstons.com

What inspired your decision to forge links with academia on the health benefits of matcha? As an ethical company, we want to validate the health claims around matcha via scientific research. To date, we have been involved in three pieces of clinical and scientific research in relation to the impact matcha has on fat oxidation (weight loss) and breast cancer stem cells. The research results have been exciting and have paved the way for future studies.

Sheffield-based artisan crisp producer, The Yorkshire Crisp Company has redesigned the packaging for its tins of gourmet Yorkshire Popcorn featuring images with connections to the leisure industry and linked to its home county of Yorkshire. The popcorn is available in three traditional flavours – Sweet, Salt & Sweet, Salted – available in 40g resealable drums and a toffee-coated variety available in a 90g resealable drum. yorkshirecrisps.co.uk

What is the best thing about being a small business? Being able to move quickly and see changes happen that you’ve been instrumental in making – and being able to forge strong relationships. …and the worst? High riskFreshly of burn out due to not being able to Ground Sponsor advert 2016 print ready.pdf shut off because you care so much.

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Why is it important for you to source premium, organic matcha? When sourcing matcha for my mum, it was critical that I find the highest quality. We are an ethical brand and health continues to be at the centre of the business. To benefit from all that matcha has to offer, it has to be a quality

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Vol.21 Issue 10 | December 2020

DELI OF THE MONTH The threat of Brexit to imported goods – in the form of price rises and bureaucratic hoops – could be seen as a step too far for a deli whose sole focus is on one European nation. But David Pavon, owner of Bristol’s El Colmado is certain of the value of his concept, his curation, and perhaps most importantly, his customers. Interview by Tom Dale

Continental confidence IF YOU WANTED evidence that Brexit is already having an effect on food importers in the UK, then the stark example from one Bristolbased deli owner could be it. David Pavon, who runs Spanish deli El Colmado on the city’s trendy Gloucester Road, shows FFD a box of Padrón peppers and says that five months ago he was paying £9 per box, but now the quality has gone down, and the price up by over 50% to £14. “I don’t think there is as much produce coming into the country, so they’re buying a cheaper product and increasing the price because the logistics costs have gone up,” he says. But Pavon remains sanguine about the Iberian specialist’s prospects following the imminent end of the transition period – confident in his range, his customer base and,

VITAL STATISTICS

Location: 57 Gloucester Road, Bishopston, Bristol, BS7 8AD Turnover: £120,000 Restaurant covers: 150 Retail floorspace: 75m² Gross margin – shop: 30% Number of lines: 400 52

December 2020 | Vol.21 Issue 10

most importantly, his ability to “react and adapt”. When David moved to England from his native Spain in 2008 to study computing and information technology, owning Bristol’s first Spanish deli was not on the cards. But, finding limited access to high-quality Spanish products in the UK, he saw an opportunity. “We have a huge food culture that wasn’t present in England, apart from basic, low-quality ham and chorizo,” he says. “So, we decided to open the shop.” Seven years ago, he opened El Colmado – Spanish for 'the grocery store' – on Gloucester Road, Bristol’s hub of independent businesses. Following a ten-day closure due to both he and his only employee going into self-isolation, FFD visits the store. It is a visceral experience.

The shop bursts with colour – from the hand-painted mural behind the servover to the shelving adorned with vibrant ambient lines and smells that transport you back to holidays in the Spanish sun. And this is what the owner wants to cultivate for his fellow ex-pats and Iberophiles alike. The ethos of the shop, Pavon says, is to provide high-quality products, that are difficult or impossible to find in the UK, through his network of contacts and knowledge in Spain. Initially, the range was limited, relying on some British importers and some in Spain, but now the shelves are packed with products. “It was difficult but slowly, slowly we built up a base of producers and distributors in Spain to start bringing in all these products,” says the owner. And he means it – the majority of the

MUST-STOCKS Seron serrano ham Juviles teruel ham

lines are sourced and imported by Pavon himself. “When I want a certain product, I pick three or four producers, go to the visit them myself and check the quality. “I want octopus, so I search for one that I like, and if I do, I’ll start stocking that,” he says, and adds that, always on the hunt for an improvement, he has recently found an even better octopus supplier and is now stocking that instead. “Everything that is in the shop is going to end up in my kitchen, so it needs to be good enough for me if I’m going to put it on the shelves,” he says. As Pavon is an importer and retailer of exclusively Continental cuisine, the conversation naturally steers toward Brexit. But, while he accepts the inevitable increases to costs and potential hit consumers’ pockets may take, Pavon is maintaining a relaxed outlook. “The reality at the moment is that we don’t really know anything for certain,” he says. Having had to repeatedly make plans, then screw them up when proposed deals changed, he is now waiting until things are finalised to make any definite plans and put any changes to the behind-the-scenes operations in place. He says until a deal has been struck – or not – and new tariffs and duties have been finalised there is little point figuring out the finer details. “It’s difficult because we are talking about fiction, not facts. I’m just waiting until we have a definite outcome to start making real plans, apart from stockpiling what we can,” he says. El Colmado’s next shipment from the Continent is going to be to cover the first four-to-six months of 2021, Pavon tells FFD, whereas he usually only orders for the coming month. “It’s a necessary move until I know exactly what I need to do,” he says. “The risk would be opening the door but with only half the products on the shelves. The idea is to have time to adapt to the new systems and processes.”

Confident in his range, and the continued survival of the deli, Pavon says that, although his premium lines may take a hit in sales, the demand will still be there. “We have always had a customer base that ranges from middle-class people to students and we’ve always had options for all of them – maybe the cheapest lines will have an increase in sales and the more expensive may drop, but we will adapt.” The way he has sourced the lines he stocks ensures the survival of the shop, he says. “You can’t find these things easily, maybe on the internet, but you can’t go to Tesco and buy it – and because of that, we will always have that niche. People will always be drawn to that.” And it is for that reason that he remains steadfast in his commitment to his current model of importing the goods himself. Brexit will be bad for any importer, big or small, he says, and the potential duties imposed will be affecting everyone in the same way. While there may be some savings in terms of freight for a large importer, he says if he began buying some lines from other UK-based importers, his own logistics costs would be relatively more expensive as he would lose volume, something he has spent years building up. “It would be like shooting myself in the foot,” he says. “At the end of the day, the price difference isn’t going to be so big that I will stop doing what I’m doing.” El Colmado stocks predominantly ambient lines and relatively long shelf-life chilled goods like charcuterie and cheese. The real worry is for fresh food importers, he says. He occasionally stocks seasonal fresh Spanish fruit and veg and the palpable change in price and quality of the aforementioned Padrón peppers is difficult to ignore. Fortunately, he says, these only

Montanchez bellota ham Palcarsa cooking chorizo De la Huz rosemary manchego Boquerones (cured white anchovies) Mallafré arbequina EVOO Smoked paprika Hida Tomate Frito La Murta Bomba Rice Ortiz Bonito del Norte (white tuna) Croquetas

CONTINUED ON PAGE 55

Vol.21 Issue 10 | December 2020

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December 2020 | Vol.21 Issue 10

DELI OF THE MONTH supplement his range. Despite showing willingness to absorb some of the increased costs of importing, Pavon did admit that there will be inevitable price increases for the end consumer. “It will be impossible not to,” he says. But he doesn’t hear the death knell yet. “Right now, I believe that it will be sustainable enough to carry on – I think if it gets to the point where my shop is not sustainable, it will be impossible for anybody to buy an imported tomato in this country. Britain relies on imported food. Or at least I hope so.” Pavon has faith in his customers and their taste for fine Iberian food that he has helped develop over the seven years El Colmado has been open. When the doors first opened in 2008, he believed the shop would act as a hub for the city’s Spanish community but would also attract others. Over the years, however, the opposite has been true. Only around 10% of his customers are Spanish natives, he says, and the rest are from all over the world. Initially, uptake was slow – people knew

Spanish gastronomy, but only three products he says: serrano ham, chorizo and manchego. “I wanted to change people’s ideas of Spain and introduce them to something like acorn-fed lomo – Spanish cured pork loin – which costs more money [£70 a kilo],” he says. And at the start, it was a hard sell. The business used to offer charcuterie selections to take home, but five years ago Pavon added a small bar-style seating area in the front window of the shop for customers to sample the same products in the shop at the same price [plus VAT]. The plan worked. “It boosted sales in two ways. The people who tried the platters would buy more, and try different lines, but also having customers in the window eating our platters drew people in to try what we had,” he says. “The first three years were difficult for us. Getting the name, the customer base, and getting the right quality products for the customer we have,” he says. And, taking it back to Brexit, he says this is why he is confident – he’s done it all before. “If Brexit is a massive

change and we have to go through the process of, what do the customers want, how to give them that, we have already done it. So, at the end of the day, the whole thing is adaptation.” It would be easy to get caught up in the owner’s passion for his produce and forget the reality facing a business like his at this time, but his confidence is convincing, and evidenced. There are the customers eagerly waiting outside for the doors to open at 10 a.m. – and a few who he kindly let sneak in before opening, and the orders being busily prepared for delivery by Bristol-based business Good Sixty. “This all started as a passion for me,” says Pavon. “I have always absolutely adored food and I spend my time at home cooking, so I thought, why don’t I do something else with this passion.” And it is this passion for the lines he stocks, scouring Spain for the best of everything at the best price, which gives El Colmado individuality and, hopes Pavon, a long future in the country he has come to love. elcolmadobristol.co.uk

If my shop is not sustainable, it will be impossible to buy an imported tomato here. Britain relies on imported food.

Vol.21 Issue 10 | December 2020

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December 2020 | Vol.21 Issue 10

GUILD TALK

View from HQ

By John Farrand managing director

WE’RE CURRENTLY BEING beckoned to have our say. I know…I know, when we do no-one listens because we’re small businesses at the micro end of food and drink and only big business really matters to those in charge. Let’s change this. I spoke up at the wrong meeting and pointed out to Defra that they were not talking to the entire food & drink trade. The various committees and steering groups were full of

news from the guild of fine food big players with big budgets and advisory teams. Something none of us has. To their credit, they engaged with me and have challenged the Guild and the newly formed Food from England to round up on the gripes, moans and concerns that are vexing us. So, I need to hear from you. Tell me what's keeping you awake at night and what, quite frankly, you are shit scared of. By doing this you are bringing a new perspective to the policy departments of the government and nudging them that our concerns count. We’ve only got a few weeks to influence policy and I need to stimulate thought. Here are my thoughts on the issues: l HFSS (High in fat, sugar and salt) online advertising ban – there is a problem in the type of food and drink that this legislation affects. We should be educating in moderation, not blanket persecuting certain foods that need these ingredients to be enjoyed. There’s a six-week consultation – Google it. l Brexit – sort of forgotten about

The Word on Westminster By Edward Woodall ACS

THERE IS NO shortage of Westminster bubble activity to comment on in the last few weeks. The departure of Dominic Cummings and Lee Cain from Downing Street led to elation from many on the Conservative backbenches. They were divisive figures whose skill sets were arguably not well suited to uniting people and politicians to tackle the nation’s response to the pandemic. Their Departure has led to much analysis of how the No.10 operation will change and the impact on the Government’s policy direction. It has also fired the starting gun for the litany of Conservative backbench groups, caucuses, factions and movements to try and stake their claim on the

next policy agenda. Early signs suggest that Boris will try and give something to all sides of his party, see; a 10 point plan for a green revolution and big defence spending commitments. I fully expect the Johnsonian policy approach to be as opaque as it has ever been. I believe the real change will be a result of returning to Cabinetled governance. A reshuffle is rumoured for the New Year, where we see big hitters like Michael Gove back leading a department and perhaps some new faces. Instead of the PM’s advisers delivering everything from the centre, Ministers will be given more scope to set the agenda and start delivering. The key policy areas to look closely at will be on environment, public health and business. The net-zero target by 2050 means the Government have lots to do, not

it, haven’t we? Import and export paperwork will be easier for the larger companies who may be entitled to known shipper status. We need more help to navigate the bureaucracy.

Only big business really matters to those in charge. Let’s change this. l National Food Strategy – do you know enough about the initiative? l COVID & the economy – Lockdown two, three, four? What’s it doing to our high streets? Are you getting enough help? Rent moratorium on 31 December – can you keep your property? My inbox and post box are now open. Shoot from the hip, shoot the breeze, shoot off. Come on, so much is playing on your mind. john.farrand@gff.co.uk least deliver the Deposit Return Scheme for England – the next round of consultation is due early in 2021. The implementation of the government’s obesity strategy has yet to be fleshed out and is likely to see vehement opposition, including from us on location restrictions. Finally, relations between the business community and this Conservative Government are at an all-time low – how can this be rekindled in the lead up to the March 2021 Budget? All of these policies will have a big influence on your business, so now is a great time to reach out and talk to your MP. If you want support with contacting your MP or inviting them to visit your business to talk about these policy issues and others please let me know and we will help you make contact. Edward Woodall is head of policy & public affairs at small shops group ACS edward.woodall@acs.org.uk

Group launched to boost industry A new group has been formed with the help of the Guild of Fine Food to give England’s food and drink industry a strong collective voice in the wake of COVID-19 and Brexit. Food from England brings together the nation’s food and drink producers, organisations and quality marques under one federation, giving them a united voice, while encouraging consumers to shop local, think local and support local. The organisation has been created from more than 30 regional groups representing over 43,000 businesses to specifically support small and medium sized businesses. It will provide a unified platform from which to communicate the industry's needs to relevant government agencies and departments. It will also highlight the impact of COVID-19 and Brexit and identify ways to help the industry navigate its way through both, while encouraging consumers to keep supporting their local food and drink producers. Guild MD John Farrand, one of the founding members, said: “The past eight months have seen disaster and innovation within the regional food and drink sector, possibly in equal measure. “Consumers across the country are now realising the importance of connections across the food and drink supply chain, between makers, retailers and consumers – connections that have suddenly become more urgent, closer, simpler and friendlier as a result of coronavirus.” foodfromengland.co.uk

The Guild of Fine Food represents fine food shops and specialist suppliers. Want to join them? GENERAL ENQUIRIES Guild of Fine Food Guild House, 23b Kingsmead Business Park, Shaftesbury Road, Gillingham, Dorset SP8 5FB UK Tel: +44 (0) 1747 825200 Fax: +44 (0) 1747 824065 info@gff.co.uk gff.co.uk

THE GUILD TEAM: Managing director: John Farrand Marketing director: Tortie Farrand Sales director: Sally Coley Operations director: Christabel Cairns

Sales manager: Ruth Debnam Sales executives: Becky Haskett Sam Coleman Membership, circulation & awards manager: Karen Price Operations manager: Claire Powell

gff.co.uk

Operations assistant: Meredith White Events manager: Stephanie HareWinton Events assistant: Sophie Brentnall Financial controller: Stephen Guppy Accounts manager: Denise Ballance

Accounts assistant: Julie Coates Chairman: Bob Farrand Director: Linda Farrand

Vol.21 Issue 10 | December 2020

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