CHEESEWIRE
news & views from the cheese counter
Scientific breakthrough creates new strains of blue cheese mould By Patrick McGuigan
Blue cheese producers will soon be able to create new flavours and textures in their products after a breakthrough discovery that enables scientists to naturally breed new strains of blue mould. Penicillium roqueforti, the blue cheese mould, was thought to reproduce asexually, but Paul Dyer, professor of fungal biology at the University of Nottingham, has discovered it is possible to naturally breed the mould to create completely new varieties with unique cheesemaking properties. The new process has been commercialised by Myconeos,
after extensive trials with artisan cheesemakers Moyden’s Hand Made Cheese in Shropshire and Highland Fine Cheeses in Ross-shire. A range of new blue moulds will be launched under the Mycoforti brand this month. “We have new strains that give very different flavour, aroma, texture and colour properties,” said Dr Jacek Obuchowicz, CEO of Myconeos. “We have developed blue moulds that can break down fat 20 times faster than existing moulds, or work much more slowly. Beyond that, we are looking at strains for goats’ or sheep’s milk blues. We want to be able to provide
Cheesemakers will be able to use the newly discovered blue moulds to alter flavour and texture
a toolbox that mould-ripened cheesemakers can use to create new products and sensations.” The initial range includes four strains – Classic, Mild, Intense and Artisan – which each provide different flavour and texture characteristics in cheese. A bespoke mould has also been developed for Moyden’s by isolating a wild strain of blue mould from a hay bale at a Shropshire farm. Cheesemaker Martin Moyden plans to use it to make a new version of his flagship cheese called Wild Wrekin Blue. “In blind tastings we found it consistently gave the cheese a real sweetness and brighter, more vibrant blue veins,” said Moyden. “I’ve always loved the connection between cheese and the place it is made, and this will really strengthen that idea of terroir. We will likely see a big increase in new blue cheeses with these moulds. It could have a big impact for both micro-producers and large manufacturers.” Obuchowicz said he was in talks with cheesemakers across the UK and hoped to also work with Continental producers. He added there was potential to look at breeding other cheese mould varieties beyond Penicillium roqueforti in the future. myconeos.com
NEWS IN BRIEF
Lidl is working in partnership with Wyke Farms to develop a carbon-neutral cheddar. Changes to the way feed, land, manure, animals and energy are managed will help save 22.5 million kilos of carbon dioxide per year as part of the project, which will be verified by The Carbon Trust.
Lady Grey This new raw goats’ milk cheese, from St James Cheese in Cumbria, is made in 1.6kg rounds, which are coated in ash. The cheese has a semi-soft texture and grassy flavour when young, becoming sweeter and more mushroomy as it matures and the paste breaks down beneath the rind.
Cider The cheesemongers at The Fine Cheese Co, which helped develop Lady Grey, have had success pairing the cheese with ciders from Somerset producer Wilding Cider. Ditcheat Hill cider has a fresh and fruity flavour, which pairs well with the bright acidity of younger cheeses. More mature cheeses work well with Kingston Black, which has notes of apple pie and poached plums. Beetroot Beetroot and goats’ cheese is hardly a new combination – there’s an earthiness to both that makes for a pleasing match. But Tracklements’ Beetroot & Horseradish Relish adds another layer to the pairing with a gentle peppery heat from the horseradish that picks up on spicy notes found near the rind of Lady Grey.
Cardiff cheese shop Madame Fromage has headed north to the Monmouthshire town of Abergavenny to open a second outlet. The new Deli & Café on Nevill Street stocks 150 different cheeses, as well as a range of accessories and accompaniments. Somerset cheesemaker Feltham’s Farm has won the Virtual Cheese Awards for the second year running after its La Fresca Margarita queso fresco was named Best British Cheese. The company won last year with the washed rind cheese Renegade Monk.
THREE WAYS WITH...
Worcester-based Croome Cheese has saved the Harlech, Tintern and Y-Fenni flavoured cheddar brands after the Abergavenny Fine Food Co stopped production of the trio last year. The three cheeses are still made with Welsh cheddar, but are now blended in Worcestershire, and come in 1.2kg and new 150g waxed rounds. croomecuisine.com
Rosemary Rosemary is another easy match for goats’ cheese. Rosemary crackers, rosemary honey and even a gin & tonic garnished with lemon and a sprig of rosemary all work well with younger Lady Grey cheeses. The herb dovetails with similar floral and herbaceous notes in the cheese. Vol.22 Issue 5 | June 2021
17
