FFD March 2017 by Guild of Fine Food

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HARP LANE 54 How Henry and Hannah Mackley redeﬁned one of Ludlow’s best known stores

March 2017 · Vol 18 Issue 2

IF I’D KNOWN THEN... 7 With Kathryn Mitchell of The Lambing Shed farm shop

CAN WE TRADE WITH TRUMP? 10 What will a prickly new president mean for importers and exporters?

SOFT DRINKS

A CLEAN START From organic breakfasts to chocolate pots, ﬁnd the latest in natural and free-from foods

CHARCUTERIE BLACKWOODS CHEESE THE SEED FUND

March 2017 | Vol.18 Issue 2

contents news p4 news analysis: the trump effect p10 cheesewire news p13

proﬁle: blackwood cheese co cut & dried

p14 p19

soft drinks interview: metro drinks natural, organic & health foods preview: farm shop & deli show shelf talk deli of the month

p21 p27 p31 p45 p47 p54

opinion HOW MUCH NOISE HAS TO BE MADE about the plight of Britain’s high streets before planners stop encouraging shoppers to take their cash out of town? I’ve just come back from Ludlow, that lovely market town in the heart of the Welsh Marches which, back in 1995, more or less invented the idea of a food festival. (Abergavenny held its ﬁrst in 1999.) Many of you will have been to Ludlow over the years, in which case you’ll likely have stuck your head inside a certain deli on the corner of town’s central market. Originally Ludlow Larder, perhaps it’s best-known incarnation was as the Deli on the Square, run for more than a decade by Maggie Wright, in partnership, for a while, with Tracey Colley, now of deli distributor Harvey & Brockless. As you’ll read on p54, for the past three years the shop’s been owned by local-born foodies Henry and Hannah Mackley, two smart cookies who’ve turned what is now Harp Lane Deli into a pretty good model of the Millennial Generation ﬁne food store: limited but intriguing range, very non-mainstream but accessibly priced, most of it looking beautiful as well as tasting great. And – in true Millennial fashion – they’re not hidebound by the need to stock local or British. What they like, they list, and they seem to be doing quite nicely out of it. Henry’s there every day; they staff the place with part-timers who they also regard as friends; they enjoy what they do and create an atmosphere that shoppers can relax into. They also get on famously with their fellow small retailers – not least Mousetrap Cheese, right next door, whose owner Matt Knowles pops in for a latté most afternoons. As locals, the Mackleys are totally committed to their town and its unusually rich independent shop scene, which draws visitors from many miles away all year round, not just at food festival time. It’s everything you could want from a town centre. So what on earth possessed Shropshire Council this month to give outline permission for an edge-of-town supermarket that can do absolutely nothing but hurt Ludlow town centre? A decade back, when the Earl of Plymouth Estate opened the upmarket Ludlow Food Centre three miles from the centre, there were plenty of objections. On balance, however, the Centre seems to have added an extra attraction for those who already visit Ludlow for the full foodie experience. An edge-of-town Sainsbury or Aldi won’t do that. It will mean those who currently drive into the more central Tesco or Lidl – many of whom then walk into town to visit its independent shops and cafes – simply won’t bother. A Waitrose would do even more damage. Ludlow’s independents know this. So too do Ludlow Town Council and its Chamber of Commerce, who both objected to the application. With high street retailers also under assault from soaring rates, isn’t it time planners started listening to those most effected by their decisions?

What on earth possessed Shropshire Council to give outline permission for an edge-of-town supermarket that can do nothing but hurt Ludlow town centre?

MICK WHITWORTH, EDITORIAL DIRECTOR

editors’ choice MICK WHITWORTH, EDITORIAL DIRECTOR

Serious Pig Snackling pork crackling www.seriouspig.london

p19

Enough with the wheatberry, chia seeds and the quinoa – bring me more pork fat. Just do it in a different way. These relatively conventional-looking bits of crackling from snack salami brand Serious Pig are oven-roasted, rather than deep-fried like scratchings, and bring an interesting Third Way to a sector that is currently divided into mainstream and ‘posh’. The pieces of rind are slimmer and more uniform that standard pub scratchings, so you’re not choosing between little scrappy pieces and bits the size of a child’s ﬁst. It’s a sensible range extension that is surely going to look tempting hanging alongside Serious Pig’s two snacking salamis and Snackingham air-dried ham. I might have made more of the “oven roast, not fried” on-pack, though, because it does bring a genuine texture and ﬂavour difference as well as being marginally more healthy. • Honourable mention, by they way, to the new duck fritons from The Artisan Food Co (also on p19) – basically scratchings made from Creedy Carver duck skin, à la Fritons de Canard. Tastes like duck!

Vol.18 Issue 2 | March 2017

finefoodnews Soil Association set for new indie sales drive EDITORIAL editorial@gff.co.uk

Editor & editorial director: Mick Whitworth Deputy editor: Michael Lane Reporter: Andrew Don Art director: Mark Windsor Editorial production: Richard Charnley Contributors: Nick Baines, Bridget Cowan, Clare Hargreaves, Patrick McGuigan, Lynda Searby ADVERTISING advertise@gff.co.uk Sales director: Sally Coley Sales manager: Ruth Debnam Sales executives: Becky Stacey, Maria Burnett Published by the Guild of Fine Food Ltd Printed by: Blackmore, Dorset Fine Food Digest is published 11 times a year and is available on subscription for £45pa inclusive of post and packing.

© The Guild of Fine Food Ltd 2017. Reproduction of whole or part of this magazine without the publisher’s prior permission is prohibited. The opinions expressed in articles and advertisements are not necessarily those of the editor or publisher.

GENERAL ENQUIRIES Tel: 00 44 (0)1747 825200 Fax: 00 44 (0)1747 824065 info@gff.co.uk www.gff.co.uk Guild of Fine Food, Guild House, 23b Kingsmead Business Park, Shaftesbury Road, Gillingham, Dorset SP8 5FB United Kingdom

Managing director: John Farrand Marketing director: Tortie Farrand Commercial director: Christabel Cairns Operations manager: Karen Price Operations assistant: Claire Powell Training co-ordinator: Jilly Sitch Circulation manager: Nick Crosley Financial controller: Stephen Guppy Accounts manager: Denise Ballance Accounts assistant: Julie Coates Chairman: Bob Farrand Director: Linda Farrand

March 2017 | Vol.18 Issue 2

BY ANDREW DON

The Soil Association has revealed plans to step up promotion of organic food through independent stores, where organic sales are growing ahead of the mainstream grocery market. The organic certification body told FFD it will target indie shops more seriously after announcing a new promotional scheme for the foodservice sector. The Organic Served Here award scheme, launched in January, will see restaurants, cafés and other eateries “rigorously” audited and then graded from onestar to five-stars, based on the percentage of organic ingredients they serve. Alison Muirhead, business development manager at Soil Association Certification, which certifies more than 70% of organic products sold in the UK, said: “Having this star system at the restaurant level is ticking a lot of boxes for consumers, but there could well be something in the retail sector that ticks those same boxes.” Under Organic Served Here, a one-star rating will

The Soil Association‘s plans include an online search facility, pointing consumers towards organic stockists

indicate eateries that are "dipping a toe" in organics, and there is scope for similar signposting with retailers, Muirhead told FFD. The organisation will work “more and more with

retailers” starting this month, building on its existing training, merchandising and point-of-sale help. It has already begun reaching out to independents, asking them to sign up to

Global event showcases Welsh food BY MICK WHITWORTH

Producers ranging from charcuterie specialist Cwm Farm to national brands such as Radnor Hills will be showcased at Wales’ ﬁrst ever international food and drink event. UK and international buyers, journalists, dignitaries and industry leaders have been invited to BlasCymru/TasteWales, taking place at the Celtic Manor resort near Newport, Gwent, on March 23-24. Buyers from delis, farm shops and food halls are among those being urged to attend the Welsh Government-led event, which combines a producer showcase with meet-thebuyer sessions and an

Pembrokeshire Beach Food Co will be among the featured speciality brands

international conference. Delegates are already set to arrive from as far aﬁeld as the United States, Hong Kong and the United Arab Emirates, and over a

hundred Welsh producers will exhibit, including Pembrokeshire Beach Food Co, Edwards of Conwy, Penderyn whisky and Snowdonia cheese. Lesley Grifﬁths, Welsh Government Cabinet Secretary for Environment and Rural Affairs, said: “Bringing together individuals and organisations from across the industry, BlasCymru/TasteWales will provide the platform for us to display the strength, success and pride we have in Welsh food and drink and help us continue with the positive trajectory we are currently on as we strive to reach our 30% growth target by 2020.” www.tastewales.com

its Organic Indie E-News. A store search facility on its website is also “deﬁnitely on the cards”, giving details of stores and the organic lines they offer. Muirhead said the organisation wants to map all specialist retailers that cater for organic consumers. “We want to bring them into the Soil Association community and join all the supply chain dots so we can really cater to that growing market.” Speciality food shops are already high up on the list of places where consumers want to buy organic food. “If we can make it as easy as possible for people to seek that information it can only go from strength to strength.” But she also said shops should blow their own trumpet. “There’s work to be done on both sides.” The Organic Trade Board will also be targeting indie shoppers with its third Wake Up To Organic breakfast promotion in June. • Focus on natural, organic and health foods – p31 www.soilassociation.org

Tayto takes control of Portlebay Northern Ireland crisp and snack maker Tayto Group has bought a majority stake in ﬁve-year-old Portlebay Popcorn, which went into administration at the end of January. Tayto – which also owns the Golden Wonder, Mr Porky and REAL Crisps brands – took a 75% stake in the posh popcorn maker alongside Neil Adams and Jonty White, two of Portlebay’s founding shareholders, in a pre-pack deal. Adams and White, former directors of Burts Chips, will continue to run the business independently from Tayto.

Ultracomida hits Cardiff with Basque café-bar format

In brief Former Halfords retail director Rob Swyer is taking over from Sarah Dunning as chief executive of Westmorland, operator of the award-winning Tebay and Gloucester motorway farm shops. Dunning takes over as chairman from Bryan Gray, who remains a non-executive director.

The team behind Spanish restaurant and delicatessen chain Ultracomida, which has well-established outlets in Aberystwyth and Narberth in Pembrokeshire, has opened the new-format Curado Bar in Westgate Street, Cardiff city centre. The 3,000 sq ft casual dining and drinking operation combines a smaller deli than its other businesses with dining over two floors. It specialises in Basque-inspired pintxos (snack dishes, often served on sticks) such as rosemary torta with blue cheese & honey, and sells around 20 different varieties of cheese along with a similar range of Spanish cured meats.

Blending ready-toeat or takeaway food with conventional retailing is a now a key trend around the world, according to a new food-to-go report from researcher IGD – and not just in bigger stores like Whole Foods Market. Ireland's Centra convenience stores combine retail with an eat-in area in a single space, and IGD expects more stores to mix it up like this during 2017.

www.ultracomida.co.uk

New rules on acrylamide on their way

Farm shops sceptical over iceberg ‘panic’ BY ANDREW DON

Shops that sell cooked foods, especially potatobased products, will have to put acrylamide management procedures in place as part of their overall food safety policy under forthcoming legislation. The change comes after the Food Standards Agency (FSA) issued a warning in January that acrylamide – formed on starchy foods such as toast and potatoes during high-temperature cooking – presented a cancer risk. The FSA is in European talks to find what it says is the best pragmatic solution to help food companies cut acrylamide levels. But it looks likely that upcoming EU legislation will require acrylamide management to feature in routine food safety systems policed by local authority EHOs.

Price-busting deals on fresh fruit and veg before Christmas gave way to shortages and price hikes last month. But some independents suspect supermarkets were happy to see panic-buying of lettuces and broccoli. Heavy rains, frost and snow in Spain quickly fed through to UK retailer supplies of leafy salads, iceberg lettuce, courgettes, spinach, broccoli, aubergines, peppers, fennel, turnip tops and puntarelle. British Leafy Salad Association spokesman Dieter Lloyd said farm shops would have been affected even when they grew their own, because they tended not to grow lettuce in January. Chris O’Connor, manager of Rumwell Farm Shop & Café, in Somerset, said shortages had affected pricing of mainly courgettes

and lettuces at his shop. Tesco imposed a limit of three iceberg lettuces and three heads of broccoli per customer last month, provoking cynicism in the market. Al Overton, head of buying at Planet Organic, suggested Tesco had a glut of icebergs and it sold more than it normally would by announcing the restrictions. “When was the last time anyone wanted to buy more than three icebergs unless you run a small catering business in which case you’d go in, get three and then go back and buy another three?” Stefano Cuomo, managing director of Macknade Fine Foods, agreed: “Sometimes the supermarkets do create a bit of publicity around these things as a marketing ploy,” he said. Dieter Lloyd added: “There are many things

Fede Cervillin of Natoora, a Selfridges concession-holder, says shortages could continue until the end of this month

you panic buy – generally iceberg lettuce isn’t one of them.“ Planet Organic said courgettes were selling at its stores at about one-and-ahalf times at much as they were this time last year. “I have a feeling quite a lot of the price increase has been sucked up by our wholesaler, Langridge Organic, so it probably

doesn’t accurately reflect the cost,” said Overton. Fede Cervellin, head fruit and vegetable buyer at Natoora, which has an instore concession at Selfridges’ food hall, said shortages were likely throughout February and March for lettuces and spinach. “Availability on other crops is now beginning to improve,” he said. Vol.18 Issue 2 | March 2017

Fa o rm n Vi Sh stan sit u op d s & F39 D e l i at Sh ow 6

March 2017 | Vol.18 Issue 2

5766Pipers Best Brand ad ART AWARD AMEND.indd 1

16/12/2016 13:24

finefoodnews

Academy goes national for 2017 BY MICK WHITWORTH

The Seed Fund, a philanthropic organisation offering free mentoring, marketing and design support to ambitious new food firms in the South West, is going national for 2017 with support from the Guild of Fine Food. Founded by Bathbased branding and design consultancy The Collaborators – whose clients include Marshfield Ice Cream and Jus-Rol pastry – The Seed Fund allows fledgling businesses to pitch for a place on a programme of mentoring and meet-thebuyer events. Twelve are chosen each year to go through The Seed Fund Academy: a series of events, running throughout the summer, that includes specialist advice sessions from key figures in the speciality sector. This year’s mentors will include Guy Tullberg of Tracklements, Camilla Barnard of Rude Health

New owner for Pea Green Boat Shortbread House of Edinburgh has taken over specialist cheese sablé baker The Pea Green Boat for an undisclosed sum. The Pea Green Boat was set up in 2011 by Maddy Corbin – daughter of Thursday Cottage founders Pam and Hugh Corbin. She was joined in 2013 by Sally Champion, and the pair will work with Shorthead House on a consultancy basis in the short term. The Pea Green Boat was a three-star Great Taste winner in 2015 with its original recipe sablés and ranked in the scheme’s Top 50 Foods. Shortbread House has itself won 62 Great Taste awards. Corbin said they decided to sell for personal reasons and because they needed a company with the resources to grow it further.

The Seed Fund will put a dozen high-potential food & drink businesses through an intensive mentoring programme this summer

and Tom Herbert of Hobbs House Bakery and TV’s Fabulous Baker Brothers. At the end of the Academy programme, one business is chosen by a panel of judges to be awarded a package of branding and marketing support from The Collaborators worth up to £100,000, which could include a total packaging overhaul and new website. After four years focused on the West Country, The Seed Fund is partnering with the Guild of Fine Food from this year to open the scheme to Great Taste award winners nationally.

David Webb, The Collaborators’ marketing and commercial director, said: “There will now be two entry routes: one for new start-ups with lots of potential, and a ‘small producer’ entry for companies less than four years old and turning over less than £500,000 that have already won Great Taste awards.” Entries opened from February 1, via The Seed Fund website. Businesses are invited to make a short “elevator pitch”, from which a shortlist of 24 will be chosen. The final 12 will be selected during three days of judging by some of the scheme’s mentors, including a face-to-face pitch by each candidate. From 2017 onwards, the winner of the Great Taste Small Artisan Producer of the Year title, announced at September’s awards, will also be offered a place in the Academy. www.theseedfund.co.uk

M&S is final straw for Aston Marina farm shop BY ANDREW DON

The award-winning farm shop at Aston Marina, in Stone, Staffordshire, has closed to make way for an expanded bar and restaurant. The marina owners took the decision after Marks & Spencer won approval for a new food hall at nearby Westbridge Park. The shop – an FFD Deli of the Month in 2015 – closed in early February and sold off stock at up to 50% off in the run-up. According to director Helen Webb, customers said they would miss the cheese counter most. “But people buy nice cheese twice a year and they buy average cheese from the supermarket 52 weeks of the year.” The M&S opening would give people less reason to

The farm shop gives way to an expanded bar and restaurant

visit, she said. “It’s already the case that people don’t come here to do their weekly shop.” The food retail side was “washing its face” but it was the least profitable of Aston Marina’s different departments, including the bistro from which people were regularly turned away.” Retail could return to the marina after 2017, Webb said, but only in the form of a concession.

“If I’d known then what I know now” KATHRYN MITCHELL, CO-OWNER, THE LAMBING SHED, KNUTSFORD MY FAMILY HAS FARMED at Moseley Hall Farm for generations and continues to do so today. In recent years, we started to look at ways of diversifying and my father came up with the idea of a farm shop. What used to be the old lambing shed was being used for storage and seemed ideal for a shop and café. The shed was an empty shell when we started so we had free rein on the layout. It wasn’t until we were up and running that we could see which areas needed more space and which needed less. If I could, I would move the front door to the other side of the building to route customers through the shop to get to the café. I would urge anyone setting up a shop to take advice on layout and design, as it’s so crucial and not easy to change once you are open. Before opening in November 2015 we spent a lot of time visiting other farm shops and talking to owners and managers to get a picture of what we wanted for our shop. The key was to ensure the shop and café worked together with the farm to utilise the lamb and beef we rear. We also wanted to work with as many local farmers and producers as possible, to showcase the best Cheshire has to offer in fine food and drink. We have succeeded for the most part, with over 45 local suppliers and all beef and lamb coming straight off our farm. We make as much as possible in-house – we make all our sausages, burgers, deli products, pies and pastries, as well as ready-meals to take home. Our best selling item is eggs, supplied from a farm a mile down the road, closely followed by our sausages and sausage rolls. There are some lines that haven’t sold as well as we hoped, either due to the price or the product being too niche. We started off selling local milk at a price that reflected the fair price we were paying the producer. We found that people are so used to paying next to nothing for milk that they weren’t prepared to pay more. Now, we keep stocking it but at a lower price as a loss leader. Initially we wanted to provide a very personal service, but while some people like the experience of chatting to a butcher or server, others just want to pick up and go. We’ve learned to cater for both types and provide a one-to-one service on our butcher’s counter alongside a pre-packed ready-to-go range. Building a team of 25 people who share our vision has not been easy. For example, some staff came from supermarket backgrounds, where there is more of an emphasis on price. We’ve had to work hard at training and have found that taking staff to visit other farm shops to see what works and what doesn’t has been more effective than any training we have done on site. The café has surpassed all targets, whereas the shop has seen slower growth. Overall, however, we have experienced a month-on-month growth in sales, basket spend and footfall, and have plans to further develop the business. We want to increase our bestselling homemade ranges, and to double the size of the café seating area by covering our patio area, giving customers a year-round outdoor dining experience.

We’ve found that taking staff to visit other farm shops has been more effective than any training done on site

INTERVIEW BY LYNDA SEARBY

Vol.18 Issue 2 | March 2017

finefoodnews

School’s out at new North Lincs farm shop

New app lets shoppers trace food to source

BY ANDREW DON

A new store and café has opened in the north Lincolnshire village of Messingham, combining artisan food with antiques. The business has been created on the site of the former local primary school with a £300,000 investment from London jeweller Steve Kirby and his partner, Joanna Belton. They have transformed the site into an antique centre, coffee shop, delicatessen, florist and butcher’s. Open seven days a week, Messingham Farm Shop & Café’s emphasis is on locally-sourced Lincolnshire products, although its chilled counter include a selection of European cheeses. It sells three different pâtés, Mr Huda’s range of restaurant-style curry condiments and sweet and

BY ANDREW DON

savoury pies from Lime Tree Pantry Foods and Brockleby’s. Salty Dog crisps,

Teapigs, English Tea Shop teas, Union coffee, Apidae Honey, Atkins & Potts dressings and sauces and

Gordon Rhodes gourmet sauce mixes are also on the product list. www.messinghamfarmshop.co.uk

World Cheese Awards docks in London for 2017

Parliament gets a taste of Yorkshire Artisan food was the focus of the Kingdom of Elmet Food Day at the Houses of Parliament recently, organised by Yorkshire MPs Alec Shelbrooke and Nigel Adams. Producers and retailers in attendance included Wharfe Valley Oils, Cryer & Stott Cheesemongers, Quirky Craft Ales, Bert’s Barrow farm shop and Leventhorpe Vineyard. Justin Staal of Staal Smokehouse is pictured above with Charlotte DeVille (left) and Charlotte Wells Thompson of Bert’s Barrow, a North Yorkshire farm shop and veg-box operation based at Austfield Farm, Hillam.

March 2017 | Vol.18 Issue 2

After heading overseas last year to the Basque cultural hot-spot of San Sebastián, the World Cheese Awards will return to London for 2017. This year’s awards will be staged at London’s Tobacco Dock on Friday November 17 in collaboration with Taste of London: Festive Edition, a four-day consumer event which opens on the same day. Some 3,000 cheeses from all corners of the globe will be judged in front of a trade audience on November 17, with consu mer tastings being held across the weekend. John Farrand, MD of the Guild of Fine Food, organiser of the World Cheese Awards, said; “Taste of London has a proven track record engaging with high profile restaurants and chefs, which makes it a

great environment for our dairy audience and ideal for forging relationships within foodservice. “Tobacco Dock is a magnificent venue, full of character, making it the perfect backdrop to this year’s cheese judging.” After previous forays into Gran Canaria and San Sebastian, Farrand said he hopes to alternate the event in future years between the UK and overseas venues. www.gff.co.uk

This year’s WCAs will take place alongside Taste of London: Festive Edition at Tobacco Dock

A new traceability app that lets consumers check the provenance of everything from fresh meat to multiingredient pies and readymeals is targeting the speciality sector. Follow This Food has been developed by Bristolbased Agrantec to work with its NotaZone data management platform, which can be used by producers to store and manage production and ingredients data. The app extracts key information from NotaZone about the provenance of each product and presents it in a user-friendly way. It allows customers to trace products back through the supply chain to the source producer and even animal. Consumers access the data on their mobile device by scanning a QR (Quick Response) code on the product label, or by following a web link. They can also find information about how and where the product is made, by whom, and what makes it special. Agrantec says it will help quality producers and shops justify premium prices, as well as providing reassurance to consumers. The system’s aims are similar to that of the Happerley passport scheme previously reported in FFD. Agrantec MD Martin Coates said Follow This Food has about a thousand registered users, including Plenty Pies and Ludlow Nuts. Blackmore Vale Butchery, a family-run, premium butcher in Dorset, focusing on meat from animals raised in the South West, uses NotaZone and Follow This Food to show how its meat has been handled. Each pack of meat can be tracked back to the farm and even to the animal from which it came. www.agrantec.com

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Cave-aged. In peace. Vol.18 Issue 2 | March 2017

finefoodnews

What’s he got in store for you?

US exporters are concerned, not just about the weakness of sterling, but how Trump’s maverick presidency will develop

His choice of global buddies looks decidedly suspect, but some say Donald J Trump’s apparent affection for the UK could bode well for trade with the US. ANDREW DON asks what a reinvigorated ‘special relationship’ could mean for US ﬁne food in British stores. news analysis BY ANDREW DON

March 2017 | Vol.18 Issue 2

Importer Buckley & Beale sees the exchange rate as more of a threat than illfeeling towards Trump. ‘Good food is good food, no matter where it’s from,’ says director Adrian Beale. Gage Skidmore

t a UK reception at the Winter Fancy Food Show in San Francisco on January 23 – three days after Donald Trump’s inauguration as 45th president of the United States – the mood among British exporters was buoyant. Ron Tanner, a vice-president of the Specialty Food Association, which organises the USA’s twice-yearly Fancy Food Shows, says this was in marked contrast to the summer show in New York last June. It was three days after the Brexit referendum and the atmosphere was “extremely sombre”. Tanner says US exporters to the UK are, on the other hand, ﬁlled with trepidation on two fronts: the continuing strength of the US dollar compared with sterling – although some forecasts suggest the British currency could make a recovery later this year – and uncertainty about how Trump’s presidency will develop. The billionaire businessman and former reality TV star promised more trade than ever before between the two countries when he met Prime Minister Theresa May in Washington on January 27. The two leaders approved a Trade Negotiation Agreement when they met, designed to establish a free-trade deal they say will be ready as soon as the UK leaves the European Union. It could mean that £1.9bn of food and drink exported to the US and the £1.3bn imported from there into the UK, as reported by our own Food and Drink Federation, could both rise sharply post-Brexit. Ann-Marie Dyas, co-founder of Bath-based The Fine Cheese Company, a Fancy Food Show exhibitor, says: “If we could have a trade deal that was reciprocal, it would beneﬁt the passage of goods by making importing easier and the prices lower.”

She points out that the duty currently paid on American products coming into the UK, and vice versa, can be complicated to administer and adds cost. The US is not a cheap producer and its distance from the UK only pushes costs higher. A reciprocal trade deal would enable more US products “to ﬁnd their way to our stores at the best possible price”, she believes. But will UK foodies still want to buy American products from speciality food retailers when so much anti-Trump sentiment exists here? Demand for US products certainly exists in some of the UK’s speciality food shops, which is something The Fine Cheese Co is

making the most of with its launch of American Originals – a range of artisan-made American cheeses which it will ﬂy in every two to three weeks. It will also launch a new fruit product from California at IFE this month under The Fine Cheese Co ‘Partners for Cheese’ umbrella. Dyas says: “We have a special relationship with America and it’s about to get even better. “I think it [anti-Trump sentiment] will have no effect psychologically – the British buy products not presidents,” Dyas says. “If anything, a Trump presidency and a better trade deal with America should help us both buy from and sell more products to the States.” She continues: “As a nation,

If anything, a Trump presidency and a better trade deal with America should help us both buy from and sell more products to the States ANN- MARIE DYAS, CO-FOUNDER, THE FINE CHEESE CO

we’re also deeply receptive to the food of other nations – just look at our national cuisine: curry, pasta, sushi. “The current issue is that there are relatively few American products available here and there really should be more. Increasingly, America has genuine artisan-made foods of great quality and individuality as well as Oreos and Hershey bars.” Adrian Beale is sales and marketing director at Buckley & Beale, an importer, distributor and wholesaler of speciality gourmet foods from the US, the UK and Ireland. Like Dyas, he doesn’t see anti-Trump feeling having a major effect on demand for US food products, particularly speciality foods. “Anti-Trump sentiment doesn’t necessarily translate into anti-US sentiment,” he says. “If anything, we’ve seen an increase in demand with America being in the news far more.” The negative public mood might start to affect other industries, such as tourism, Beale acknowledges. However, the awareness and desire

What about scope for exports? A healthy US market combined with adventurous consumers and a weak pound means prospects for UK exporters remain positive, despite uncertainty about the new administration, according to Sandra Sullivan (left), director of the UK Food & Drink Exporters Association. “The long-standing trends in natural and speciality food and drink – organic, convenience, authentic, experimentation – should continue to help UK exporters in the US market. “That aside, we should not ignore that Trump ran on a largely protectionist platform, which may mean the introduction of barriers to importers in the next few years. “The President already suggested a 20% tax on goods imported from Mexico, which will immediately increase the prices of imports of food and drink.”

speciality food, this can be seen as great news. The more ADRIAN BEALE, supportive SALES & MARKETING DIRECTOR, BUCKLEY & BEALE he is towards US food businesses, especially when it for world food is “very much alive”, comes to exports, the better.” he says, and led by millennials who The Speciality Food Association’s appear to be easily able to separate Ron Tanner believes there is an their politics from their spending appetite in the UK for American habits. regional products – items that are While there might be “small distinctly American “like salsa, pockets of resistance” from some barbecue sauces, maple syrups, retailers, he adds: “Good food is pancake mixes, even some Southern good food, no matter where it’s things like biscuits and cheese from, and this is still the message we straws”. take to our customers.” And while Ann-Marie Dyas The fact that both the UK and says it is still too early in Trump’s US governments both want to administration to be able to predict do a quick trade deal should help what will happen, she is hopeful. enormously, Beale believes. “The UK market is important to “We have a new president US producers because it’s the same clearly focused on the American language and the cultures are not economy and people, who's made that different. it very clear this means supporting “A lot of them are more eager American-based businesses. For us to sell into the UK than to Japan as a business importing American

Anti-Trump sentiment doesn’t necessarily translate into anti-US sentiment

and [South] Korea. Those are much bigger export markets for US products but they just feel more comfortable with the UK.” But Tanner says reaching relatively small-order speciality outlets in the UK is tricky. “Our members have ideal products for farm shops and delicatessens but the distribution system is challenging.” Beale also points out that it is not yet clear if Trump still intends to look at fundamentally changing his country’s powerful Food and Drug Administration, establishing a free trade deal and reducing red tape for exports to the US, which he says “would be very welcome indeed”. He says: “The reduction, or even removal of import tariffs would be of huge benefit, and as far as import

is concerned would ameliorate the impact of a weak sterling.” The “slow and steady drop” in the US exchange rate over the last 36 months has already had a major effect on business for US exporters and UK importers as margins have been squeezed for all concerned, Beale says. “While there is still a demand for US foods here in the UK, there is a limit to what consumers will be prepared to pay. Prices on the shelves have increased by 10-15% over the last few months and probably won't take much more, at least not in the near future.” However, speaking on behalf of UK speciality producers, Ron Tanner adds: “I think everyone is eager to do business with the UK. We have 3,600 members, 1,600 exhibitors at the Winter Fancy Food Show and around 600 of our members export to the UK. “The ones that I know are enthusiastic about continuing doing that business. They feel they’ve got products that are very different to typically UK products.”

Our members have ideal products for farm shops and delicatessens but the distribution system is challenging RON TANNER, VICE-PRESIDENT, PHILANTHROPY, GOVERNMENT & INDUSTRY RELATIONS, SPECIALTY FOOD ASSOCIATION Vol.18 Issue 2 | March 2017

Perfected over 200 years

March 2017 | Vol.18 Issue 2

cheesewire La Cave opens store in Unsung heroes indie-friendly Chiswick

news & views from the cheese counter

BY PATRICK MCGUIGAN

Changing shopping habits have prompted La Cave à Fromage to target suburban sales with a new shop in Chiswick, West London. Owned by wholesaler Premier Cheese, La Cave’s new outlet on Chiswick High Street is its fourth store, joining London branches in Notting Hill and South Kensington and another in Hove, East Sussex. “The retail scene is constantly changing and we have to adapt,” said Amnon Paldi, who owns the business with Eric Charriaux. “Retail is much more fragmented, with people buying online and using different supermarkets. We are also seeing that people want to be more local than central.” Chiswick was chosen as a location because of its ‘village’ feel, he added, and because there is already a

high number of independent retailers in the area. Affluent West London has become a prime area for cheese, with Paxton & Whitfield and The Fine Cheese Company opening new shops in Chelsea and Belgravia respectively in recent years. “Rents and rates are obviously cheaper than a central location and parking is not really an issue because people tend to shop on foot in Chiswick,” said Paldi. “We’re reviewing how we do things in the shop, looking at opening hours and product ranges. It has to be convenient for shoppers, so that they can buy on their way home from work.” The new La Cave shop will stock more than 100 varieties and will also serve cheese and charcuterie boards in a 30-cover café, which is part of the shop. www.la-cave.co.uk

The Cheese Society

HIDDEN GEMS FROM BRITISH PRODUCERS

BRONTE CHEESE In a nutshell: This new Dales cheese is the brainchild of mother-anddaughter team Alison and Sarah Robinson, who are related to 19th century cheesemaker Simeon Robinson whose land helped inspire the Brontë sisters and was the setting for Wuthering Heights. It is made with pasteurised cows’ milk and vegetarian rennet in various sizes, and is aged for 16 weeks.

Amnon Paldi (right) and Eric Charriaux chose Chiswick for its ‘village feel’, with more people opting to shop local

Taste and texture: A cross between a Wensleydale and a Lancashire, it has a light, slightly crumbly texture with a clean milky flavour and gentle tang on the finish.

Errington row rolls on with authorities in dispute

History: The cheese is made by JJ Sandham in Lancashire with milk from a single herd close to Haworth where the Brontës lived.

BY PATRICK MCGUIGAN

Blue Peter flies the flag for cheddar Blue Peter’s Lindsey Russell (left) got to grips with the cheddaring process on a visit to Dorset-based Ford Farm Dairy as part of a two-day ‘cheese challenge’ aired last month. The children’s TV presenter made her own traditional cheddar truckle, before abseiling with the cheese into Wookey Hole caves in Somerset. It will be matured there until next January before being taken to the studio to mark the 60th anniversary of the show.

Errington Cheese’s dispute with Food Standards Scotland (FSS) took a bizarre twist last month when the authority publicly criticised South Lanarkshire Council (SLC) for allowing the firm to start selling cheese again. The FSS effectively banned all Errington’s cheeses last year, after naming its raw milk Dunsyre Blue as the likely cause of a fatal e.coli outbreak – an accusation the company has vigorously denied, supported by its own testing. Last month, Errington forced the hand of SLC by saying it would start selling Lanark Blue and Corra Linn again, prompting the council to seize batches of both cheeses. However, these proved negative for e.coli in council tests, leading to small amounts of the Manchego-

style Corra Linn being sold. FSS criticised the decision, arguing SLC’s testing was “incomplete”, and restated its advice that none of the company’s cheeses should be eaten. “Allowing [the cheese] to be placed on the market was premature, as there is currently insufficient evidence to provide assurances to the public that these cheeses are safe,” it said. SLC’s tests were “not sufficiently protective of public health”. The case is now heading to court, with Errington backed by a £30,000 fund, raised via a JustGiving campaign set up by food journalist Joanna Blythman. “We are confused by the apparent differences between FSS and SLC,” said the company in a statement. “We do not agree with any of the allegations made against us.”

Cheese care: 90-day shelf-life and should be kept at below 8°C. Why stock it? It has a great back story, especially with the Brontë Society celebrating the 200th anniversaries of the births of the literary siblings over the next five years. Perfect partners: A slice of fruit cake is recommended, but it also works well in salads. Where to buy: Michael Lee, The Cheese Society FFD features a different ‘unsung hero’ from Specialist Cheesemakers’ Association members each month. To get involved, contact: patrick.mcguigan@gff.co.uk

Vol.18 Issue 2 | March 2017

cheesewire

news & views from the cheese counter

Criminally cheesy Dave Holton and Tim Jarvis have drawn on Dave’s Aussie heritage for their ‘convict’ series of cheeses and their best-selling Graceburn feta-alike in a jar, says PATRICK McGUIGAN

hey didn’t do gap years in the 19th century. The way most Brits got to Australia was in chains after committing what were often petty offences. People like poor old Edmund Tew, who was convicted of stealing cheese in 1829 and sentenced to seven years on the other side of the world. It wouldn’t have been much consolation to the unlucky cheese pilferer, but his exile wasn’t completely in vain because nearly 200 years later Kent-based Blackwoods Cheese Co named a wrinkly rinded cows’ milk cheese after him. The story makes more sense when you find out that cheesemaker Dave Holton is a native of Melbourne, who reversed Tew’s journey (without the chains), arriving in the UK in 2010. “We found an ancestry website where you can search for convicts sent to Australia by the crime they committed,” he explains as he and British co-owner Tim Jarvis taste several experimental versions of the raw milk cheese in the company’s new dairy at Commonwork Organic Farm near Edenbridge. “We typed in ‘stealing cheese’ and lots of names came up that we liked and it went from there.” The so-called ‘convict’ series also includes a super-fresh lactic cheese called William Heaps (a cheese thief from Lancaster), but Blackwoods is probably best known for Graceburn, which is named after a river in Holton’s home town. A raw cows’ milk feta-style cheese, it is marinated in olive and rapeseed oil with peppercorns, thyme and garlic, and is sold in glass jars. Cheese in oil is a familiar sight in Australia – Holton spent several years at a dairy in the Yarra Valley making a similar product before he came to the UK – but it still raises eyebrows at Blackwood’s stalls at Borough and Brockley Markets. “We get people saying, ’What the hell is that? Some kind of pickle?’ But once you get them to try it, they understand it much better,” he says. A very different product to the salty, sour plastic-wrapped feta you find in the supermarkets, Graceburn is a gentle milky cheese with a nice balance of aromatic notes from the marinade and a long salty kiss at the end. It’s certainly won over chefs, who buy it in bulk to use in salads, soups and as a starter with bread, but also on cheeseboards in little ramekins. Retailers such as Fortnums

March 2017 | Vol.18 Issue 2

Jarvis (left) and Holton in their dairy at Commonwork Organic Farm near Edenbridge, where they are experimenting with cheeses like the geotrichum-rinded Edmund Tews

and Selfridges also appreciate its smart packaging and three-month chilled shelf-life. Holton initially worked at Neal’s Yard Dairy when he came to the UK, maturing soft cheeses at the company’s Bermondsey HQ, and set up Blackwoods with two Australian friends as a side project. They started as urban cheesemakers with a unit in Brockley, South London, from where they would make three-hour round trips to collect organic milk from Commonwork. The two Aussie friends stepped back from day-to-day operations and fellow Neal’s Yarder Tim Jarvis joined the business, which soon developed to the point where more space was required. A crowd-funding initiative to move to new premises at the farm was launched last year and with the help of a slick video and promises of cheese rewards for investment, they raised £14,000 and moved in

last October. “We did a lot of stuff on social media to get the word out and we’ve found that it’s helped us in ways we weren’t expecting,” says Holton. “We’ve had shops around the country getting in touch because they heard about the crowd-funding from their customers.” Last year, the company produced four tonnes of cheese, but the move means Holton and Jarvis hope to double this in 2017, and plan to reach 20 tonnes in five years. The new dairy has also helped build a better relationship with the farm, which has a 240-strong herd, giving the cheesemakers new insights into the milk. “We’re getting a better idea of how the lactation cycle and changes in diet affect the milk and the cheese,” says Holton. “It’s also allowed us to experiment more. We can walk over to the parlour and get 60 litres of milk in a few seconds.

Graceburn is a gentle milky cheese with a nice balance of aromatic notes from the marinade and a long salty kiss at the end

Before it took several hours.” Which brings us back to the different styles of Edmund Tew we are taste-testing at the leafy Kent dairy. Blackwoods previously made these as simple geotrichum-rinded cheeses, but Neal’s Yard has also washed them in brine to create a Langres-style version. Now that the company has bedded in to its new home, Holton and Jarvis are keen to tweak the recipe further and start rind washing for themselves. The cheeses under scrutiny today have been made in different shapes and with varying levels of salt, rennet and starter. “I’m breaking my golden rule of only making one change at a time, but it’s interesting to see how much they differ with quite little tweaks,” says Holton. The one that stands out has been made with a whey starter and a decent seasoning of salt, giving a smooth almost fluffy texture and a rounder flavour, which really shows off the subtleties of the raw milk. “That’s a good one,” says Holton with a broad Australian twang, as he and Jarvis chew thoughtfully. Maybe Edmund Tew’s cheese crimes were worth it after all. www.blackwoodscheesecompany.co.uk

LE GRUYÈRE AOP

BORN IN SWITZERLAND, 1115 A.D. And remains the only cheese that’s 100% Natural, 100% Traditional, 100% from Switzerland and 100% Le Gruyère AOP *AOP = PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) – must be traditionally and entirely prepared and produced within the region, thus acquiring the unique properties of Gruyère AOP cheese, to bear the name Le Gruyère AOP.

The uniquely smooth, savoury flavour you’ll find only in Le Gruyère AOP is a product of its upbringing – where the cows that supply the milk are grazed (only in the villages of Western Switzerland), the way the cheese is aged and cared for (slow-aged in the region’s cheese cellars and caves), and the recipe that’s remained, unchanged, for centuries (hand-made, in small batches). For a smooth and mild yet extremely satisfying taste, Le Gruyère Classic is aged 5 months minimum. Le Gruyère Reserve, which has been aged for 10 months or more, has a smooth but more robust flavour. Both varieties are great in recipes, or sliced as a snack. Either way, we’re sure you’ll enjoy the only cheese that can call itself Le Gruyère AOP.

Switzerland. Naturally. 12 March 2017 | Vol.18 Issue 2

LeGruyere_UK_FineFoodDigest_236w321mm.indd 1

Castle of Gruyères

Born in Switzerland in 1115. www.gruyere.com

Cheeses from Switzerland. www.cheesesfromswitzerland.com

1/22/15 2:33 PM

Monday 26 June 10am-4pm Tuesday 27 June 10am-4pm Halls 1 & 2, Yorkshire Event Centre HG2 8QZ

All good things come in small packages

Featuring this year: • Feed the Dragon: producers pitch to big-name food buyers • Cracking Christmas: workshop for retailers wanting to maximise sales • Expert advice & support from the Guild of Fine Food • Great Taste: sample awardwinning food & drink • FineFoodLive! Theatre: demos & tutored tastings

Who should attend: Buyers from delis, farm shops, food halls, garden centres Chefs, pubs, restaurant and hotel owners, café and coffee shops Butchers, bakers, grocers and gift shop owners

Harrogate Fine Food Show combines both first-time and established brands. As a visitor you will meet new producers and taste exciting new products that will have never been seen before at a food trade show. Exhibitors can enjoy meeting new customers from retail and food service sectors, as well as buyers from well-established food halls and farm shops across the UK.

“

There is so much innovation in food and drink across the UK, so the show plays an important role in getting new products in front of buyers.

”

Adrian Boswell, Selfridges & Co

“

We’ve been coming to Harrogate Fine Food Show for many years and that says it all really. We come because it works for our business.

”

Felicity Hall, Bramley and Gage

To exhibit at Harrogate Fine Food Show 2017 contact Sally Coley on 01747 825200 Register for your free visitor ticket at www.gff.co.uk/harrogate Easy access and free parking for both exhibitors and visitors. Under 18s will not be admitted. Students by prior arrangement only.

www.gff.co.uk |

@guildoffinefood | #harrogateffs

Celebrating 10 years as a distributor of:

Fine Foods

Spanish Ceramics

Olive Wood

other quality products

To view all our new products for 2017 simply download our Vol 10 Brochure at: www.divinedistribution.co.uk www.divinedistribution.co.uk sales@divinedeli.com 01706 313 001

The natural choice for cheese Vol.18 Issue 2 | March 2017

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March 2017 | Vol.18 Issue 2

making more of british & continental charcuterie

cut&dried

Duck fritons and crackling join premium snacks BY MICK WHITWORTH Two producers – one new, one well established – have brought new ideas to the premium snacks category this month. Berkshire-based startup business The Artisan Food Co, owned by Dan Featherstone, has launched with two charcuterie-style snacks to pair with drinks and aimed at “top end pubs, bars and hotels”. It has already won listings with Fortnum & Mason, Rick Stein’s pub and deli in Padstow and Heston Blumenthal’s The Hinds Head and The Crown in Bray. Duck Fritons (RRP £2.50, 30g), based on the Gascon speciality Fritons de Canard, are fried, scratching-style snacks made with free-range duck skin from Devon-based premium duck supplier Creedy Carver. They are ﬂavoured with Spanish sea salt sourced for

Featherstone by Cornish Sea Salt, and he said production process had taken almost a year to perfect. “It takes around nine hours, going through rendering, curing, a long process of conﬁt, cooling and a hot fry,” he told FFD.

His other launch product is Chorizo Thins (RRP £2.50, 25g), made using a spicy chorizo from Galicia which is “slow cooked for in excess of 15 hours, to intensify the ﬂavour and give it a little crunch”. Featherstone is looking for wholesale distributors for both products, which he is currently selling at £1.30 per pack in cases of 15. Also new this month is Snackling (RRP £2.50 for 30g), which maker

Serious Pig – best known for its snacking salamis and Snackingham snack hams – claims is the ﬁrst snack pack of pork crackling to be oven-roasted rather than fried. “The texture and ﬂavour we get from ovenroasting is amazing,” said founder George Rice said: “It bubbles and turns a beautiful golden colour and becomes incredibly crispy.” It also delivers about half the fat of fried scratchings, he added. www.madefordrink.com www.seriouspig.london

London listings mean investment for Lane Farm BY BRIDGET COWAN Lane Farm is planning more investment in production and product development after seeing growth in sales of its Suffolk Salami-branded chorizo, salami, and air died smoked pork loin. Harrods and Selfridges have recently listed the brand, while Rowcliffe now offers Suffolk Salami gift packs. New lines will include a smoked cooking chorizo which, according to coowner Ian Whitehead, will compete with imported products on a high-animalwelfare back-story. Lane Farm has just ﬁnished building a new barn for weaning its pigs. “Having our own pigs gives us total control on how they are kept and what they are fed,” said Whitehead. www.suffolksalami.co.uk

Organic bresaola targets paleo market BY BRIDGET COWAN With interest growing in the paleo, fitness and health markets for ‘free-from’ grass-reared beef products, Berwickshire’s Peelham Farm has launched a new organic bresaola. Free from nitrates and nitrites, and made from the farm’s own Aberdeen Angus x Luing topside, the full flavoured bresaola is aimed at deli and specialist outlets. “The Luing cattle side of the breeding combined with the entirely grass diet gives the meat a characteristically high level of intra-muscular fat, which adds to the flavour,” said managing

Clarksons moves into sliced packs

partner Denise Walton. Once cured, the bresaola is air-dried for several months in the farm’s 200-year-old stone walled barn. Peelham Farm’s organic

charcuterie sells directly to outlets including Planet Organic and Westmorland (Tebay), and through Abel & Cole and The Cress Co.

A new range of sliced retail packs of chorizo and salami from Three Little Pigs extends its existing range into different buying occasions. The packs, described as suitable for ﬁne dining or snacking, are positioned for both impulse and regular buys with a trade price of £2 for a 15 slice, 50g pack (RRP £3). They are made by Jon and Charlotte Clarkson on their free-range farm near Beverley in the East Riding of Yorkshire, where Jon has developed all the recipes from scratch. He told FFD: “I have no ambition to simply copy European recipes and styles. I’ve developed my own ﬂavours and techniques.” The new range is initially available through distributor The Cress Co.

www.peelham.co.uk

www.threelittlepigschorizo.co.uk

Vol.18 Issue 2 | March 2017

Introducing our delicious

NEW

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March 2017 | Vol.18 Issue 2

Jonagold Apple Juice

Rhubarb, Apple & Strawberry Juice

soft drinks

product update

Act naturally

products in brief

Innovation in speciality soft drinks is all about eschewing sweeteners and added sugar and focusing on natural ingredients, writes LYNDA SEARBY. PHROOTI, a new brand of ‘natural’ fruit-infused waters, has just launched to the independent trade through Cotswold Fayre. The on-trend drinks contain zero sugar – just water, fresh fruit and lemon juice – and provide just 15 calories per 250ml bottle. RRP is £1.95 and there are two varieties: raspberries & strawberries and blackcurrants, blackberries & blueberries. O Suffolk’s James White Drinks has added three new shots – turmeric juice, lime & chilli and Xtra ginger – to its Zinger range. The O

on sale in 29 countries, the ﬁve-strong range features natural ingredients that are believed to relieve stress, such as such as green tea extract with theanine, chamomile, lavender and lemon balm. RRP £1.29 for a 250ml can. O Franklin & Sons has added seven new lines to its range over the last 12 months, including four mixers for spirits: ginger beer, Scottish soda water, Scottish artesian water and original lemonade. The premium soft drinks brand has also moved into the

www.brecklandorchard.co.uk

Sussex farmpressed juice producer Wobblegate has refreshed its line-up with

Having built up a consumer following through an online subscription service, Elderbrook is launching three of its quirkily branded ‘not squash’ lines to the retail trade. Spanish orange, apricot & goldenberry, pomegranate, cherry & cardamom and yuzu, Spanish lemon & lucuma will have an RRP of £3.99 for a 250/300ml bottle. www.elderbrookdrinks. co.uk

intense 7cl shot drinks are pitched as a natural wakeup alternative to sugar and caffeine-loaded drinks. RRP £1.49. O Virtue claims to be the ﬁrst sugar-free energy water to hit the UK market. Available in two varieties – lemon & lime and berries – the sparkling drink uses yerba maté, guarana and ginseng as natural energy sources. Wholesale price £0-78-0.85 per 250ml can. RRP £1.35. O Distributor RH Amar is supporting Tranquini in launching its relaxation drinks in the UK. Already

sharing space with three 750ml offerings: British dandelion & handpicked burdock with star anise, ginger beer & malted barley with a squeeze of lemon and wild strawberry & Scottish raspberry with cracked black pepper. www.phrooti.co.uk www.jameswhite.co.uk www.virtuedrinks.com www.tranquini.com www.globalbrands.co.uk

Breckland Orchard’s ultra low calorie range of presséstyle drinks are being rebranded as Posh Pop Zero Sugar, to reﬂect the fact that they contain no sugar. Wholesale price 83p for 275ml; RRP £1.75.

What A Melon is pitting its new watermelon water against coconut water as the ‘hydrating superhero of 2017’. The company claims it has all the electrolytes found in its coconutty counterpart, as well as the antioxidant lycopene, the amino acid citrulline and a high potassium content.

a new look and three new ﬂavours: apple & blueberry, apple & rhubarb and squeezed breakfast. RRP £1.60 for 250ml. www.wobblegate.co.uk

Kids’ juice brand Appy Kids Co now includes a new ‘school approved’ Gruffalo range (RRP £1.49 for a 3-pack) and a ‘family value’ Paw Patrol pouch (£1 for a 5-pack).

www. appyco. com

London-based MightyBee has become the latest player to enter the coconut water fray, offering chilled raw and frozen virgin varieties.

whatamelonwater.com

www.mightybee.com

Trendwatch: a thirst for trees Following in the footsteps of coconut waters are ‘tree’ waters, made from the sap of trees such as bamboo and birch, reputed to have health-giving properties. Sibberi was the ﬁrst company to introduce birch water to the UK two years ago and has since added maple water and bamboo water in

250ml formats (RRP £1.99) to its offering. Maple water is rich in manganese, whilst bamboo water is tipped as a

beauty supplement owing to its silica content. GoBirch claims to be the ﬁrst birch water brand to offer the so-called ‘super drink’ in a 1l tetra pak format (RRP £2.99). The amino acid, antioxidant and mineral rich water is made from birch tree sap harvested from the Baltic forest region of Europe.

Carr House Farm organic fruit cordials have been relaunched in 50cl glass bottles. Wholesale price from £2.64; RRP from £4.40.

www.sideoven.com

www.gococodrinks.com www.sibberi.com

Vol.18 Issue 2 | March 2017

soft drinks O GO! Kombucha is back after taking a 12 month break to scale up its production and review its branding. The fermented raw tea originally launched in 2010, with founder Gary Leigh making small batches by hand. By 2015, however, Leigh needed to ‘rethink’ the operation to cater for growing demand. The new enhanced GO! Kombucha range was rolled out in November and is now listed at Whole Foods and Planet Organic. RRP £2.29 for 250ml and £5.75 for 750ml. O Tapping into the ‘beauty from within’ trend is Vitness, a new brand of soft drink that claims to “energise the body and replenish the skin” through the inclusion of collagen peptides and anti-ageing vitamins. Vitness Beauty Vitamin comes in cucumber & melon, elderﬂower & chilli and rhubarb & rose ﬂavours and is already stocked by Harrods, Harvey Nichols, Planet Organic and Revital Health. RRP £2.95 for 250ml. O A new tropical smoothie brand is gearing up to launch onto the UK retail scene. Tropicsoul smoothies are made from 100% fruit which is high pressure processed to preserve the nutrients while giving a 60-day shelf life. There are four smoothie varieties: mango, passionfruit & ginger, pineapple, soursop & banana, mango, acerola

& beetroot and mango, pineapple & kale, and a pineapple & fresh mint juice. Wholesale price £2; RRP £2.50. O Misshapen and surplus fruit and veg give an ethical

March 2017 | Vol.18 Issue 2

product update products in brief Kent’s Chegworth Valley has added orange juice to its line-up. RRP is £1.80 for a 250ml glass bottle, with 1l bottles launching soon.

www.chegworthvalley.com

Tapping into the growing popularity of non-dairy milks, Plenish has launched an organic hazelnut milk that contains just three ingredients: organic hazelnuts, water and sea salt. RRP £3.49. O

dimension to new ﬂavoured water brand Dash. The fruit and vegetable infused sparkling water drink was created by London-based business partners Alex Wright and Jack Scott to offer a no-calorie, no-sugar, no-sweetener alternative. It comes in cucumber & lemon and lemon & lime varieties.

O Mirroring the fruit water trend in adult soft drinks, Pip Organic has launched Pip’s Kids Fruity Water. Containing just organic fruit and spring water, the ‘school compliant’ drinks come in 200ml cartons in mango, orange & apple and blackcurrant, raspberry & apple varieties. O Retailers looking for a contemporary cordial brand should check out The Urban Cordial Company. The range, which includes pear & ginger, blackberry & lavender and cherry & black pepper, is made by Londoner Natasha Steele. Wholesale prices start

from £4-4.45 for a 500ml bottle. O Three new drinks – wild English elderﬂower, sparkling lime & jasmine and pink grapefruit tonic – have brought lighter and more contemporary ﬂavours to the Fentimans line-up. The botanical drinks brewer hopes the new additions will attract a younger and female audience.

O 120 years after its original launch, botanical soda Lurvill’s Delight has been resurrected by drinks industry veteran Dave Steward. Production of the drink ceased in 1910 due to a local shortage of dock leaves, but now it is being made in Wales again – using Welsh spring water and natural ingredients including nettle, dock and juniper berry extract. RRP £1.89 for a 330ml bottle.

www.gokombucha.co.uk www.wearevitness.com www.mytropicsoul.com www.dash-water.com www.piporganic.com www.fentimans.com www.theurbancordialcompany. com www.lurvillsdelight.com

With rising numbers of teetotallers and more adults cutting down on alcohol, market conditions are ideal for the launch of Belvoir’s new range of wine alternatives. The Shiraz, Chardonnay and Rosé ‘wines without the hangover’ are said to emulate the sensation of drinking wine, but are grapejuice based and contain no added sugar. RRP £2.99. www.belvoirfruitfarms. co.uk

www.plenishcleanse.com

A new cinnamon infusion based on a Mexican té de canela will debut at the Farm Shop & Deli Show in April. Named after the Mayan ‘tree of life’, CEIBA has a wholesale price of £1.38 per bottle (RRP £2.55).

www.ceibadrinks.com

Papas Mineral Company’s latest cordial – traditional clove – picked up two golds at the 2016 Blas Na Eireann Irish food awards. RRP £4.95 for 750ml.

www.papasmineralcompany. com

Serbian producer Granny’s Secret is supplementing its juice offering with French lemonades through a partnership with Elixia. The lemonades comes in 13 ﬂavours, including a 24 carat gold with real gold leaf.

www.forestbounty.co.uk

Cheshire-based Fruits of the Forage has branched out into soft drinks, with two cordials made from wild fruit.

www.fruitsoftheforage.co.uk

Vol.18 Issue 2 | March 2017

soft drinks

product update

Stores with cafés or a strong food-to-go offer say many customers insist on brands like Coke and Sanpellegrino

Spot the imposter Many ‘speciality’ stores let their principles lapse when it comes to selling the biggest brands in soft drinks. So can you survive without a fix of Coke? LYNDA SEARBY reports.

s a category, soft drinks is an anomaly. Brands that are readily available in the multiples – from Coca Cola and San Pellegrino to independentlyowned labels like Fentimans and Belvoir – often top the list of best sellers. But what is behind this reliance on big-name soft drinks? And can delis and farm shops make a success of the category without them? Coca Cola has spent millions guarding its secret recipe and promoting the superiority of its brand of cola, and there’s no denying it has done a pretty good job. Even discerning farm shop and deli goers who champion local, artisan produce seem to have bought into the idea that Coca Cola is ‘the real thing’ and that Nestlé-owned Sanpellegrino aranciata – a Waitrose staple – embodies Italian sophistication. Cheerbrook Farmshop in Nantwich, Cheshire, for example, has found that despite celebrating local produce in every category, when it comes to cola, only one brand cuts it with customers. “Although we try and support local at all times, we’ve found that with having a shop and café, customers often expect larger brands such as Coca Cola and Diet Coke and don’t consider the smaller brands of a similar product as an acceptable replacement,” says general manager Samantha Sutherland.

London – there didn’t seem to be the same demand for big brand soft drinks. Flesh & Flower’s ethos is to only stock British produce and keep its sourcing as local as possible. “Our best sellers are Square Root Sodas and Thør apple spritz and we stock a few different juices, including James White,” says owner Lewis Slayden. Slayden has a very clear idea of what he wants from a soft drink, and at this urban deli, image is everything. “Drinks need to look good on shelf; people buy with their eyes and even if a product tastes good, if it doesn’t look good it won’t sell. “We look for products with an ‘urban edge’ not a country style, and we don’t really go in for ‘health’ drinks as people can buy them from Planet Organic down the road.” MIKE BILLINGHURST, He adds: 181 DELICATESSEN, EDINBURGH “I’m not concerned about sugar content – I’d “We try, first and foremost, rather the drinks were made with to stock local products such as real ingredients.” cordials from Cam Valley Orchards, By sticking fast to these criteria, but have found we still need the this London “farmer’s market on Coca Colas of this world. So we’ll a high street” has made a success try and promote local firms whilst of soft drinks while eschewing recognising that there are always mainstream brands. people who want a Diet Coke.” Four hundred miles north, Mike At the two delis we spoke to – Billinghurst of 181 Delicatessen in 181 Delicatessen in Edinburgh Bruntsfield, Edinburgh, is another and Flesh & Flower in Muswell, That said, for lemonade and sparkling elderflower, customers don’t have any objections to local supplier Alison’s Fruity Cordial Company. “People don’t seem to mind it not being a ‘name’, but where Coke is concerned people want the brand,” says Sutherland. Interestingly, analysis of sales show that Cheerbrook’s top sellers are the locals: Ollie’s Orchard apple juice and Alison’s Cordial, which outperform both Belvoir and Sanpellegrino. David Pearce of Pearce’s Farmshop & Café in Buntingford, Hertfordshire, is another shop owner who has found that, despite a business ethos rooted in local, Coca Cola is still a ‘must-stock’.

I won’t stock Coca Cola. We sell Fentimans curiosity cola and Luscombe’s ginger beer.

deli owner who holds tight to his principles. “We need a cola and we need a ginger beer on the menu,” he says. “but I won’t stock Coca Cola. We sell Fentimans curiosity cola and Luscombe’s ginger beer.” When the shop opened in 2014, it did stock Sanpellegrino, but stopped selling it due to the high sugar content. It switched to Lemonaid, the ethical lemonade brand, instead. “Lemonaid and the apple juices we stock from Fior Fruit Merchants in Fife have a lower sugar content than their more mainstream counterparts – artisan producers tend to use less sugar,” Billinghurst says. Besides sugar content, he has various other criteria when selecting soft drinks. “We have designed our soft drinks menu to go with the food we serve in the restaurant so we always go for drinks that aren’t too heavy in flavour, so they don’t overpower the food. We also prefer to source locally, and will take customer recommendations into account,” he says. It might simply be that city delis have to offer what can’t be bought from a newsagent round the corner, whereas out-of-town food destinations are catering for a broader spectrum of customers. Either way, there’s living proof that both artisan labels and big hitters can co-exist in this contradictory category. Vol.18 Issue 2 | March 2017

All the taste without the hangover! A range of non-alcoholic wine like drinks developed to mimic the sensation of drinking wine but without the alcohol. Full bodied Shiraz with its heady currant notes and hint of black pepper. Sweet, scented & crisp Chardonnay and lively RosĂŠ with a nose of raspberry & a floral hint.

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soft drinks

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Mixing with the craft spirits set Folkington’s has kicked off the new year with a new range of mixers for the speciality and independent trade. Paul Bendit, the brand’s founder, talks to ANDREW DON.

new collection of six mixers in 150ml single-serve cans and eight-can fridge packs is the latest offer under the Folkington’s brand from Metro Drinks, a business started five years ago by accountant Paul Bendit. The mixers range, launched in early January, comprises bitter lemon, Sicilian clear lemonade, dry ginger ale, Club Soda, Perfectly Light Indian tonic water and regular Indian tonic water. (RRP £4.99 for the eight-pack, trade £2 plus VAT). Creating his own recipes, sourcing his own ingredients and running production inhouse, Bendit sees himself as passionate artisan producer with a dispassionate business head, and sees Folkington’s as an provenence-led, small-batch operation. The new bitter lemon, for example, is made from Femminello lemons from Sicily – also used in the Sicilian clear lemonade – together with natural quinine from India and extract of myrtle leaf oranges from Italy. The dry ginger ale is made from West African ginger root, blended with “carefully selected botanic extracts”, while Club Soda uses minerals extracted from nahcolite rock crystals that form natural sodium bicarbonate. The Indian Tonic Water is made from a blend of natural quinine from Indian cinchona bark with citrus and floral botanical extracts; it’s Perfectly Light counterpart, with 33% fewer calories, is “lightly sweetened with fruit sugar”. Bendit bemoans the small number of tonic waters currently available despite the fact that more than 50 new craft gins came to market last year. But therein lies an opportunity. “People like to experiment with different tonics and different gins to see what they like best,” he says. “Up until now it’s been Schweppes, then FeverTree came into the market, then Fentimans and Franklin. And that’s about it.”

Bendit says Folkington’s tonics complement premium gins, rather than swamping them

Metro Drinks stepped in with a tonic that ticks a number of boxes, not just taste. For example, it opted for mini-cans to prevent the wastage and quality problems associated with

VAT), and its Garden range of four sparkling pressés in 250ml cans: rhubarb & apple, elderflower pressé, lemon & mint and ginger beer (RRP £1.20, trade 68p plus VAT).

In some cases we can trace fruit back to a single farm. Provenance is a signature USP for the Folkington’s brand. PAUL BENDIT, MD, METRO DRINKS larger, multi-serve bottles. “We’ve all experienced the disappointment when we’ve opened a half-empty plastic bottle of tonic water and had to throw it away because it has gone flat.” The single-serve cans offer good value, are easily recyclable, and are made in small-batches with quality botanicals, which sits comfortably with the whole craft gin movement, he says. “We’ve noticed how well the tonics complement gins rather than swamp them – because sometimes tonic waters can be a bit overpowering.” The mixers join Folkington’s nine-strong range of juices, available in 250ml glass bottles (RRP £1.40, trade 80p plus VAT) and 1 litre glass bottles (RRP £3.75, trade £2 plus

Provenance was not a factor in the world of juice when Bendit founded Folkington’s five years ago, he says. “People were talking about

it with meat but no one was interested in where limes, lemons or oranges came from.” He has set out to “decommoditise” the premium juice drinks market. “In some cases we can trace fruit back to a single farm. Provenance is a signature USP for the Folkington’s brand and we stick to it.” The company’s products are distributed by “all major wholesalers” to the artisan and wider independent sector but Bendit says there is still a huge opportunity because “we are not in every farm shop, food hall or deli, and we’re promoting regularly to that end”. The word “artisan” may be important, but he urges independents to adopt some of the multiples’ tactics – like passing on Folkington’s monthly price promotions to the shopper, and encouraging impulse purchases from the chiller cabinet – to sell more drinks . “If you put a small bottle on a big [ambient] shelf, it doesn’t really do it justice,” Bendit says. “People buy a small bottle because they want to drink it now. “If farm shops and other speciality retailers give these products fridge space, so people can drink on the go, they’ll get good value out of little bottles that would otherwise sit on-shelf gathering dust. It will always sell better from the chiller.” www.folkingtons.com

Small bottles will sell better as an impulse purchase from the chiller, rather that being lost on ambient shelves, Bendit suggests Vol.18 Issue 2 | March 2017

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natural, organic & health foods

Clean sweep for natural foods Growing organic sales have merged with the ‘clean’ food boom to give fresh impetus to natural, free-from and health foods, as PATRICK McGUIGAN reports (below). On p33, BRIDGET COWAN rounds up the latest launches from the sector and previews its biggest trade show while on p41 MICK WHITWORTH reports on the Organic Trade Board’s consumer promotion for indie stores.

Oatly’s dairy-free oat milk. “People ellness bloggers Deliciously want free-from first and foremost, Ella and sisters Hemsley + but these often happen to be Hemsley have copped some organic products,” he says. “They stick in the press recently over the kind of run in parallel with each accuracy of some of their dietary other.” advice, but there’s no quibbling According to Soil Association about their impact on food sales. figures from last year, sales of Avocado and kale growers organic products have been growing would be rubbing their hands in for three years in a row, and glee, if they weren’t so busy trying independent retailers have led the to meet huge spikes in demand way with a 7.5% jump in sales in sparked by the so-called ‘clean 2015. The organisation says this is eating’ movement. partially being driven by an increase But there’s also been a ripple in young and socially conscious effect for organics, according to ‘millennials’ with strong social, specialist retailers, who say that ethical and environmental values. growing interest in natural, healthy foods that have “not been mucked about with” (as one put it) has given extra bounce to a sector that was already performing well. “It used to be all about superfoods, but we’ve seen a change in the way people are shopping, with a younger generation coming into our shop because of clean eating,” says John Grayson, co-owner of North London shop Earth Natural Foods. “Organics are not a defining part of the trend, but a lot of organic products fit into it, which has really helped sales. Anything with coconut in has done really well – from milks and oil to energy balls – and we’re selling a lot more organic raw chocolate.” CLIFF THORNE, GARLANDS ORGANIC Earth Natural has been Tea, preserves, oils and vinegars have in business for more than 30 years all been strong performers – findings and around 60% of the shop’s that chime with Phil Brown, a buyer range is organic. Lucy Bee coconut at wholesaler Infinity Foods’ retail oil, Rude Health coconut milk and shop in Brighton. Loving Earth raw chocolate bars are He says sales of tea have been some of its organic lines that have particularly strong, with Clearspring benefited, while Grayson says that Matcha Tea a star performer because organic chia seeds, almonds and of its high levels of antioxidants. wine have also been riding on the This has also helped boost coat-tails of blogger-inspired healthy products made with turmeric. eating trends. Similarly, organic free-from foods “Anything with turmeric in is selling really well,” he says. “There’s been have done well, such as Doves Farm research showing it has high levels gluten-free pasta and biscuits, and

of antioxidants. Sweet Revolution turmeric latte is proving really popular; so is Higher Living Golden turmeric tea.” Fermented foods have also gained interest amid the growing evidence of the importance of bacteria in gut health, specifically Biona’s sauerkraut and kimchi, and kefir – a live bacteria yoghurt drink. “We’ve also seen Biona organic cider vinegar doing really well – especially the unpasteurised, unfiltered one. People mix it with honey to make a drink as a kind of healthy pick me up.” At Garlands Organic in Pangbourne near Reading, co-owner Abi Thorne, echoes these observations. The shop has seen a big jump in sales of sauerkraut and Pukka mint tea “We’ve also seen a nice increase in nuts and seeds, which we source from Infinity Foods,” she says. “People are putting seeds in their smoothies and on porridge, and making their own muesli and granola. We’re seeing more customers making breakfast cereals from scratch because they are worried about high levels of sugar in branded products.” Since taking over the business five years ago, the Thorne family has seen sales increase by around 10% every year, despite the presence of Waitrose close by. “Waitrose does sell quite a lot of organic lines, but they don’t seem to be very consistent,” says Cliff Thorne, Abi’s father, who handles the accounts. “They might get a product in for a little bit but they don’t stick with it for very long. Around 70% of our products are organic and we have a hardcore of shoppers who will not buy anything else. “Some people buy organic

Some people buy organic because of environmental concerns, others because of animal welfare and others because they believe it’s better for them

Ten organic big-hitters Loving Earth raw chocolate

www.lovingearth.net

Doves Farm gluten-free pasta

www.dovesfarm.co.uk O

Rapunzel cashew butter

www.rapunzel.de/uk/ O

Lucy Bee ccoconut oil

www.lucybee.com O

Rude Health almond drink

www.ludehealth.com

Clearspring matcha tea

www.clearspring. co.uk

Pukka three mint tea

www.pukkaherbs. com

Biona kimchi

www.biona.co.uk O

Nourish keﬁr

ww.nourishkeﬁr. co.uk O

Inﬁnity Foods chia seeds

www.inﬁnityfoodswholesale. co.uk

because of environmental concerns, others because of animal welfare and others because they believe it’s better for them.” This mix of motivations is also highlighted by Grayson at Earth Natural. “There are various reasons why people choose organic and often it’s combination of all of them in different ratios for different people.” www.earthnaturalfoods.co.uk www.garlandsorganic.co.uk www.soilassociation.org Vol.18 Issue 2 | March 2017

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product update

natural, organic & health foods

Honest to goodness Producers across the country have responded with energy and vitality to demand for new inventions and healthy twists on old favourites Artisan gluten-free bread kits from MannaVida go from pack to plate in 45 minutes with no kneading and have Cross Grain approval from Coeliac UK. Each kit comes with disposable baking trays and bags, and you just need

to add water to the mix. The loaves are World Bread Awards winners and have tearability like traditional bread. With 2 loaves each, the range comprises of Glorious White Loaves RRP £5.99, Garlic & Rosemary Focaccia RRP £6.99, Earl Grey & Lemon Tea Bread RRP £6.99 and 10 Dinner Rolls RRP £5.99. O GoBirch birch water from Freedom Brands is birch water sap that is tapped from birch trees in the Baltic Forest for just three weeks during spring. Made in this sustainable way, the traditional drink from Eastern Europe has been packaged

They’re nuts about rebranding The Tiger Nut Company has rebranded its range of organic bars, ﬂours and drinks which are all made from tiger nuts. Grown in the ground and harvested like a potato, tiger nuts are gluten- and dairy-free, and high in ﬁbre. It has also introduced a new unsweetened Horchata de Chufa, a traditional

for healthy minded consumers in the UK, and a one litre tetra pack has a RRP of £2.99. O Moo Free’s new Baking Drops made with its multi-award winning milk chocolate alternative, are 100% vegan, certiﬁed organic, and free from lactose, dairy, gluten, wheat, soya and GM ingredients. The drops hold their ‘chocolate chip’ shape when baked in chewy chocolate chip cookies and chocolate cakes, and they also melt consistently in a bain-marie for enrobing biscuits and ﬁlling moulds

Leave room for pudding Rod and Bens has added organic puddings for customers to enjoy after a bowl of soup, and it has started with a Lemon Posset made with rich, tangy lemon oil and double cream from some of the West Country’s most cosseted cow herds. There is also a Lemon Posset with a Berry top, which provides an extra layer of fruity exuberance

to a single-portion pud and the third option is a rich creamy chocolate pudding made with dark chocolate and double cream. Organic Lemon Posset Twinpack RRP £3.49 to £3.99. Organic Lemon Posset with Berry Top Twinpack RRP £3.49 to £3.99. Organic Chocolate Pot Twinpack RRP £3.49 to £3.99. www.rodandbens.co.uk

drink made by a small manufacturer in Spain which is available in 1 litre cartons with a RRP £4.25. Another new addition is the Tiger Nuts Crunch which can be sprinkled on yogurt, cereal, salad, sprinkled on smoothies or used in baking, and comes in 1kg bags at trade price £10.02, RRP £13.99.

products in brief Organic, dairy-free ice cream from The Nude Spoon will soon be available in four new ﬂavours. Hot-to-trot Chocolate, Sultry Salted Caramel, Rooty Ginger Booty, All Aﬂutter Peanut Butter and Creamy Coffee Kiss will all have a RRP of £7.99 for 500ml.

www.thenudespoon.com

The newest addition to the award-winning Jess’s Ladies Organic Range is organic

www.thetigernutcompany.co.uk

to craft bespoke chocolate creations. RRP is £3.25 for 150g. O Garofalo, the traditional quality pasta maker from Italy, has added to its range of award winning gluten-free pasta, with two new shapes. Fusilloni is the big brother of

fusilli, similar in shape but twice the size, and ideal for pasta bakes. Anellini is a small ring shaped pasta that gives texture and substance to soups, and is a good size for children. Made using corn flour, rice flour and quinoa it has a high fibre content of 7g of fibre per 100g of pasta. O The new Raw Chocolate Cream Truffle Selection from KamAlive chocolates are filled with a creamy centre made from a cashew nut base. Suitable for vegans and free

cultured buttermilk. Fat-free, unhomogenised and organic, it is made on Jess’s family farm using milk from her own cows, and a sprinkling of culture. RRP:£1.20. www.theladiesorganicmilk. co.uk

Most Marvellously Munchable has launched a new multiseed cracker with cracked black pepper and sea salt

flakes that is gluten and dairy-free, and so suitable for coeliacs and vegans. RRP £3.45. The Conscientious Cook has a new pecan pie with an almond & chocolate crust that is gluten, dairy, refined sugar and wheat free, and new vegan chocolate chip cookies made with flaxseed egg and coconut oil.

from soy, reﬁned sugar and gluten, the hand crafted selection are all twice rolled in dark 80% organic raw chocolate. Sweetened with organic dates and a touch of lucuma for a creamy texture, the chocolates are Kosher certiﬁed and paleo friendly. Available as 12 chocolates for RRP £14.99 they do not need refrigeration.

www.theconscientiouscook. co.uk

www.mannavida.co.uk www.gococodrinks.com www.moofreechocolates.com www. pastagarofalo.it/uk-en www.kamalive.co.uk Vol.18 Issue 2 | March 2017

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product update O Premium Italian coffee roaster Pellini Bio is now available in the UK through wholesaler Gustalia. The Pellini Bio 100% arabica organic ground coffee is an Italian roasted and ground coffee and a case of 12 is £62.44 with a RRP per pack of £6.53. The Pellini Bio 100% arabica coffee capsules are Italian roast and ground coffee in capsules for single dose coffee machines, and are compatible with Nespresso coffee machines. A case of 12 is £34.09 with a RRP per pack £3.96. O Last summer Caveman Grub launched its ﬁrst three products. Free from grains, gluten, dairy and reﬁned sugar, they use 100% natural ingredients and follow paleo principles. The Super-Clean

fudge brownie mix, RRP £6.37, is already a Great Taste award winner, and the NoGrainOla bars won a ‘FreeFrom’ award in the snack category in Ireland, RRP £1.90, and the SuperClean bread mix is a zero net carb/high protein bread with a RRP £1.90. O Ginger Bakers has moved into new purposebuilt bakery following the complete wipeout from the Cumbrian ﬂoods of

natural, organic & health foods Hand-painted egg is a keepsake

Pure Maple, which secured a Top 50 slot in the 2016 Great Taste awards, works with a cooperative of producers in

BOOJA BOOJA is encouraging consumers to think outside (or rather inside) the egg this year by opting for a generous serving of organic chocolate trufﬂes presented in a keepsake shell. The shell is handpainted by artisans in a community-based co-operative in Kashmir, India, and then handpacked in Norfolk with

award-winning BoojaBooja truffles. Large eggs (12 truffles) are available with Fine de Champagne, hazelnut and – new this year – almond & sea salt caramel truffles, RRP £24.99. Small eggs (three truffles) are available with Fine de Champagne, hazelnut,

Around Midnight espresso and almond & sea salt caramel trufﬂes, RRP £9.99. www.boojabooja.com

Canada who make maple syrup using sap tapped from trees during a six week harvesting season. www.puremaple.co.uk

December 2015, and is launching a range of six ﬂavours of gluten free boxed tray-bake portions. The ﬂavours, taken from the current successful gluten-free range, are chocolate brownie, caramel shortbread, lime coconut & pistachio blondie, Ginger Jake, Chocolate Nancy and Lemon & Polenta, and will be available from mid-march. Trade price for all varieties is £2.30 and R.R.P is £3.45. O The Ludlow Nut Co has launched a “free from” range of nut and seed

butters. Nuts and seeds are lightly roasted in-house then passed through a cool milling process to produce the new range. No preservatives, salt, sweeteners or oils are added to the selection, which comprises almond, almond & pumpkin seed cashew, organic pumpkin seed, smooth peanut butter and Tiger Butter. All are available in cases of 10. O GATO & Co is a new generation of natureinspired puddings made of vegetables, fruits and

superfoods such as raw cacao, chia, coconut oil, and are free from gluten, dairy and reﬁned sugar. The aubergine & chocolate fondant with spirulina uses aubergine instead of butter and has less than half the calories per pot of conventional puddings. There is also a chocolate brownie with chia and an orange & cardamom polenta sponge with turmeric. RRP £2.99. www.Gustalia.com www.cavemangrub.ie www.gingerbakers.co.uk www.ludlownut.co.uk Gato available from wholegoodsupply.co.uk

The Organic Protein Company has launched the UK’s ﬁrst certiﬁed organic, additive-free whey protein made with organic milk. A versatile ingredient for smoothies and baking, it comes in 20g easy tear, single serving sachets. RRP: £2.00

www.theorganicprotein company.co.uk

Fans of Dean’s can now enjoy a gluten-free

version of their favourite shortbread in four ﬂavours. The all butter gluten-free shortbread comes in all butter, choc chip and choc chip and stem ginger. 150g packs RRP £2.99. www.deans.co.uk

Jeeva Natural has launched a range of organic King Coconut waters infused with botanicals and herbs, including turmeric and matcha tea. Certiﬁed organic, vegan and kosher, and available in 200ml eco-friendly glass bottles, RRP £2.79.

For organic oil, count from one to four Olivocracy has launched with different levels of intensity of olive oil, numbered #one to #four, which are packaged in stylish cans helping customers can match the ﬂavour of the oil to what they are cooking. The limited production organic and biodynamic extra virgin olive oils are 100% Italian. With roasted meat

products in brief

and veggies, spicy sauces and soups, the company recommend oil #one. With

dark-leafed vegetables, beans and root veg, try #two. With a mild ﬂavour,

#three is a match for raw vegetables, carpaccios and white grilled ﬁsh. And ﬁnally #four is described as a versatile organic extra virgin olive oil that goes well with every dish from chicken to omelettes, white and light green veg and a bruschetta. The cans are available in 175ml, 250ml and 500ml sizes.

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www.olivocracy.co.uk

Vol.18 Issue 2 | March 2017

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March 2017 | Vol.18 Issue 2

product update products in brief Oatly has rebranded its specially-formulated Barista Edition oat drink, reﬂecting its popularity among baristas who ﬁnd its foaming properties make it good for making latte art. RRP £1.80.

www.oatly.com

Tomato & basil and curry cooking sauces from Nowt Poncy Food are part of a new range of gluten-free, vegan cooking sauces low in calories, saturated fat, sugar and salt. Available as 350g jars for £1.92 (srp £2.95) and 5kg commercial catering pails at £4.99/kg.

www.nowtponcy.co.uk

JimJam has rebranded its Great Taste awardwinning chocolate

spreads (350g) with 83% less sugar on the labels. With less sugar than most chocolate spreads, the naturally sourced sweetener is diabetic friendly and glutenfree. RRP £2.79. www.jimjams-spreads. co.uk

Spoon Cereals has had a design refresh across the whole range, and launched its lowest sugar

granola yet, with 70% dark chocolate, raw cacao nibs, pure maple syrup wholegrain oats and lime. Trade price £4.75. www.spooncereals.co.uk

natural, organic & health foods O Tenuta Marmorelle has been awarded a onestar Great Taste award for its Caserecce pasta after it spent two and a half years of taste testing to get the right texture to keep the sauce

From cricket powder to fermented foods With over 400 exhibitors, The Natural Food Show is a great place to trend-spot in the better-for-you category

attached to the pasta. A slow drying process prevents breakages during cooking which is common in glutenfree pasta, and gives the pasta a three-year shelf life. O Primal Joy has a new look and improved packaging for its range of all-natural, gluten-free

F snacks and granolas. The white packaging with contemporary graphics extends shelf life, making the range ideal for retail, coffee shops and food-to-go. Handmade in small batches, the bars and bites contain berries, nuts, seeds, raw cacao and coconut oil, and the treats include a dark chocolate brownie and a fig & orange pudding bar. O Cotswold Fayre has introduced Cereously Healthy, a range of cereals made up of five healthy flavours with superfood ingredients including quinoa, buckwheat, linseed and tahini. The wholesaler has also added fermented foods sauerkraut and kimchi from Biona. Sauerkraut is served alongside salads or grilled vegetables, and kimchi, made with naturally fermented organic vegetables, adds a kick to stir fries, noodles and rice. Both are said to have benefits for the digestive system, to help maintain healthy levels of cholesterol and to strengthen the immune system. www.tenutamarmorelle.com www.primaljoy.co.uk www.cotswold-fayre.co.uk

or retailers looking to bolster their “clean and healthy” credentials, this year’s Natural Food Show London will have over 400 companies exhibiting the latest in all-natural food and drink. Returning to the ExCeL on Sunday April 2 and Monday April 3, it is the UK’s only dedicated trade event for natural and organic food and drink, and ﬁts well with a growing consumer awareness of sustainability and provenance. Launches this year include Eat Real, an organic range of lentil and hummus chips from Cofresh Snack Foods. The Eat Grub bar, made with cricket powder, is a new addition to the on-the-go snack market, while, in the same category, The Good Crisp Company will launch a new natural alternative to the popular Pringles canister crisp. Halo Coco has coconut milk based fruit drinks (pineapple and vanilla), and One Earth Organics is launching four superfood and botanical blends for adults. BioNaturae is showcasing a new vegan range based on Mopur, an ingredient made with naturally fermented organic wheat, chickpeas and olive oil. Buzz words this year are ‘plant-based’, fermented foods’ and ‘slow-release

energy’ and there will also be plenty of new innovations to sample from brands like Tree of Life UK, Suma Wholefoods, Community Foods, Inﬁnity Foods, Clearspring, Alara Wholefoods, Meridian Foods, Marigold Health Foods, Creative Nature, Windmill Organics, Planet Organic, Inspiral Visionary Products and Bravura Foods. This year also sees a

new Vegan World area, international pavilions and a larger Growing Organic Together pavilion hosted by the Soil Association and Organic Trade Board. Visitors to the Natural Food Show can also access the other three exhibitions – Natural Beauty and Spa,

Natural Living and Natural Health – that run alongside it as part of Natural & Organic Products Europe. Together they form Europe’s biggest trade show for natural products, showing everything from natural healthcare products, natural and organic foods, through to natural personal care and eco-household products. Retailers with a café or restaurant can also take inspiration from the line-up in the Natural Food Kitchen, which includes nutritionists Christine Bailey, Oliver McCabe, and Nicky Clinch, Icelandic chef Solla Eiríksdóttir, Dr Rupy Aujla from The Doctor’s Kitchen, Gill Meller, head chef at River Cottage, and Italian restaurateurs Francesco Mazzei and Aldo Zilli. The Natural Products Talks Theatre will include sessions by food blogger Ella Woodward, the ‘Medicinal Chef’ Dale Pinnock, and Craig Sams, the co-founder of Green & Black’s and Whole Earth Foods. www.naturalproducts.co.uk

Information for visitors Where and when? ExCel London, One Western Gateway, Royal Victoria Dock, London, E16 1XL on 2 -3 April 2017. How do I get there? There are three onsite DLR (Docklands Light Railway)

stations, parking for 3,700 cars and London City Airport is 5 minutes away. How do I register? A trade-only show, for a free ticket register at the show website: www.naturalproducts.co.uk

Vol.18 Issue 2 | March 2017

FS&D Advert 230x315 17.qxp_Layout 1 07/02/2017 16:03 Page 1

SPECIALITY RETAIL SUCCESS STARTS HERE If you’re all about local, artisan and speciality then there’s only one place to do business in April 2017. With over 450 leading suppliers and 3,500 switched-on visitors the Farm Shop & Deli Show is where the industry comes to ﬁnd a fresh point of difference. Don’t miss it!

“It’s picking up new ideas that you probably wouldn’t think of yourself. It benefits us a lot because we’re keeping up with the times.”

Tony Figg, Head Butcher, Chatsworth Farm Shop

“The Farm Shop & Deli Show 2016 was exceptionally good. We came away with some excellent leads and information on possible supporting products for our brand. We would definitely come back.” Robert Talbot, Sands Smokery

farmshopanddelishow.co.uk @FarmShop_Deli #FSD2017 No under 16s will be admitted CO-LOCATED WITH:

March 2017 | Vol.18 Issue 2

natural, organic & health foods Around 70 stores like Bristol’s Better Food signed up to last year’s promotion. The OTB is targeting 150-200 stores this year.

Time to cook up an organic breakfast Even stores with a handful of organic lines can get involved in the Organic Trade Board’s breakfast promotion in June, says MICK WHITWORTH

ith the exception of Father’s Day and the last knockings of the British asparagus season, June can be a bit light on obvious promotional hooks. So the Organic Trade Board’s third annual Wake Up To Organic promotion, which uses breakfast as a starting point to get more consumers buying organic food and drink, is a bandwagon worth climbing aboard. A simple one-day event on Wednesday June 14, Wake Up To Organic has been designed specifically for the independent sector, which accounts for nearly a third of organic food sales and have seen faster growth in this category than the supermarkets. Around 70 independents from Edinburgh to Bristol have already signed up for the 2017 event, but the Organic Trade Board (OTB) wants many more delis and farm shops to get behind it. “We had 40 stores in year one and 70 last year, so we’re targeting 150200 this year,” said campaign manager Catherine Fookes. Stores are encouraged to offer a free organic breakfast, product or coffee,

to “celebrate all things organic and demonstrate how easy it is to make the swap at breakfast”. “The campaign is an opportunity to generate extra footfall at a quieter time of day,” says the OTB, “attracting new customers into store to try organic and encouraging existing customers to try something new, with a free organic mini breakfast or drink, and rewarding them for their loyalty.” Retailers who sign up via the event website receive a free toolkit to help them make the most of the breakfast promotion. As well as point-of-sale material, this includes tips on how to bring Wake Up To Organic “alive” in-store, create breakfast recipes, set up displays and tastings, and involve local suppliers. “We really encourage retailers to do tastings,” says Fookes. “After all, this is supposed to be a consumer event. Perhaps they could get a local food blogger involved, and invite them in to do tastings on the day. Or

they can bring suppliers in. Oliver’s Wholefoods in Kew, for example, have [sustainable canned fish brand] Fish 4 Ever in doing fish breakfasts.” Unlike the Soil Association, which is both a certification body for producers and a campaigning group, the OTB exists purely to promote organic sales. It has around 140 members – of which the Soil Association is one – including most of the major organic players in the mainstream market: everyone from dairy giant CATHERINE FOOKES, CAMPAIGN MANAGER, Arla Foods (the ORGANIC TRADE BOARD

In the recession, the multiples decided everything had to be about value, not values, and they just took organic off the shelf

world’s largest supplier of organic dairy products) to speciality brands like Booja Booja, Luscombe and James White Drinks. Whole Foods Market is a member, as are Daylesford and Bristol-based ethical grocer The Better Food Co. “We were formed in 2009, by industry and for industry, with one focus, which is growing organic sales,” says Catherine Fookes. The OTB was set up in the wake of the global economic slump, when organic sales in the UK had fallen nearly 13%. “In the recession,”says Fookes, “the multiples decided everything had to be about value, not values, and they just took organic off the shelf.” Independents, on the other hand, stuck with it, and continued to see organic sales grow throughout the recession. In its early days, Fookes readily accepts, the OTB’s focus was on supporting its sector in high volume outlets and hammering home the benefits of organics to consumers – a message that was, and still is, quite complex. “There was a really big job to be done in raising awareness of organics in quite a detailed way,” she says. “We were talking to people about why to buy, not where to buy, and we felt we needed to ‘go large’, with marketing in train stations, on posters and so on.” There’s no getting round the complexity of the pro-organic argument, she says. “It’s a complicated message because the benefits are different depending on the category: better for nature, higher animal welfare standards, and so on. In meat, for example, it’s more about welfare, but what appeals to a lot of younger people is that it’s ‘natural’.” Early in 2017, the OTB secured a major share of a €10.4m package of EU funding to support organic sales, in a joint bid with Organic Denmark. Fookes says the UK will benefit from 70% of this spend, partly because of the level of match-funding pledged by our own industry, and partly based on need. Organics represent only 1.5% of the food market here, compared with 10% in Denmark. “Our consumers are very similar, but heavy users in Denmark will buy organics far more times each month than ours. “All around the world, organic is growing, so we’re in a good place – but we’re quite a way behind.” So every indie store that offers customers a taster of organic granola or a cup of organic coffee on June 14 could be helping get the UK up to speed. www.wakeuptoorganic.co.uk Vol.18 Issue 2 | March 2017

Primrose Herd pigs reach for the stars!

Gloucestershire Old Spots Belly Pork

Gloucestershire Old Spots Belly Pork Gloucestershire Old Spots Shoulder of Pork

We are ﬁrst and foremost breeders and ﬁnishers of traditional pedigree breed pigs producing an award winning range of pork products. Very much a family affair the farm is located in beautiful Cornish countryside within a World Heritage site and our traditional and non-intensive approach to animal husbandry is rewarded with the highest quality meat. For all enquiries please contact us at tel: 01209 821408 | mobile: 07866042105 | email: primroseherd@tiscali.co.uk

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DRIVE your customers to GREAT TASTE food and drink BOOK

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At a time of year when sales can be slow, why not introduce your customers to Great Taste award-winning products, many of which you already stock? During February and March 2017 the Guild of Fine Food is giving away free promotional packs to highlight Great Taste products in-store. Pack contains: • Great Taste logo shelf signs • Guide to ‘What do the stars mean’ • Great Taste apron • Great Taste Books listing 2016 winners* • Miniature Great Taste blackboard and stand (including white pen) • Great Taste window sticker • Branded bunting available to order

For your free promotion pack contact claire.powell@gff.co.uk or call 01747 825200 Order while stocks last. Promotion available for independent retailers only. *120 give-away books

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March 2017 | Vol.18 Issue 2

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March 2017 | Vol.18 Issue 2

showpreview

Over 450 exhibitors lined up for NEC show The Farm Shop and Deli Show is back at the NEC to serve up inspiration and business tips for retailers

ack for its seventh year, the Farm Shop & Deli Show returns to the NEC this spring with its biggest show yet, with stands, speakers and awards offering food retailers an insight into industry trends as well as business inspiration and advice. At the NEC from April 24-26, over 450 exhibitors will be on hand to showcase concepts and creations in ingredients, equipment, drinks, products and digital tools to aid customer service, inspire and boost proﬁts. There will also be the live sessions and debates at the Farm

Shop & Deli Live. Hosted by chef, broadcaster and writer Richard Fox, there is an experienced line-up of speakers to share their tips on how to maximise proﬁts whilst embracing innovation. On day one, attendees can pick up ideas from The Fabulous Baker Brothers, Tom and Henry Herbert, as they divulge their trade secrets, give tips for retailers from their own Hobbs House stores, and share the recipe for their legendary sourdough. Also live on stage will be Paul Hargreaves, CEO of Cotswold Fayre. His session will explore how to

build a workplace community, get Millennials onside and empower teams so retailers can hold onto their top talent. Patricia Michelson, founder and director of La Fromagerie in London, will demonstrate how local stores can maximise sales through better display and merchandising. Melissa Cole, award-winning beer writer and sommelier, will talk about craft beers in an interactive tasting session, and Richard Fox will cook up some deli classics. BBC Apprentice candidate and TV presenter Saira Kahn will be also be sharing her knowledge on how to

get customer engagement right. Show attendees can vote for the best new concept for the Great New Idea competition, with innovation being a strong theme running across the event this year. Contenders include Clear Skin Herbal Tea from Cindy’s Tea, which claims to be a great all-round tonic for your skin. Low Sugar Brownies, Blondies, and Greenies from Adonis Smart Foods were created in response to a lack of low sugar snacks and contain mainly nuts, seeds and ﬁbres. And Raisthorpe oak-aged Yorkshire Gin uses mineral water from a local spring distilled with fresh botanicals and watercress. The show will once again play host to The Farm Shop & Deli Awards, which recognise independent retailers selling regional fresh farm produce or with a deli counter. Categories include Baker, Butcher, Cheesemonger, Fishmonger, Delicatessen, Greengrocer, Market, Village Store and the ever-increasing Online Business. Chaired by broadcaster Nigel Barden, the awards will reward the highest levels of customer service, product knowledge, initiative, innovation and community involvement. Innovation is at the heart of this event, supported by FARMA and The Giftware Association, and the visitor badge will gain additional access to The Forecourt Show and the National Convenience Show which run alongside. www.farmshopanddelishow.co.uk

Information for visitors Where? National Exhibition Centre (NEC), Birmingham, West Midlands, B40 1NT. www.facebook.com/FarmShopDeli

When? Monday April 24 – Wednesday April 26 2017

Beer writer Melissa Cole (above left) and La Fromagerie owner Patricia Michelson will be among speakers in the show theatre

How do I get there? Birmingham International Railway Station is connected to the NEC by a covered bridge link, and trains from London take 90 minutes. By car there is direct motorway access from the M6, M1, M40 and

M42, and the NEC has its own onsite car parks close to the exhibition halls. If you are ﬂying in, a new Monorail Link provides a direct rail link from Birmingham International Airport to the NEC. How do I register? A trade-only event, you can register for free online registration at the show’s website (www. farmshopanddelishow.co.uk) and a visitor badge will gain additional access to The Forecourt Show and the National Convenience Show which run at the same time. Vol.18 Issue 2 | March 2017

Raydale Preserves Est. 1978, North Yorkshire

Stand H115 Farm Shop & Deli Show

delicious award winning

A range of Great Taste preserves Made the old-fashioned way in the Yorkshire Dales

Far stan an Come m S d M d vi ho 90 sit p& a De t the li S ho w

info@raydalepreserves.co.uk | www.raydalepreserves.co.uk

Tenuta Marmorelle Bronze Drawn Gluten Free Caserecce Pasta

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For the love of all things handmade Come and visit stand M90 at the Farm Shop & Deli Show to taste our 11 Great Taste award-winning products

Tenuta Marmorelle OTTIMO Extra Virgin Olive Oil

Casanova Trufﬂe Casanova 10 Year Balsamic Pearls Old Balsamic Vinegar From Modena IGP

Tenuta Marmorelle Bronze Drawn Rustic Trufﬂe Pappardelle

Amore Italiano Sun Dried Tomato Tapenade

www.tenutamarmorelle.com | +44 (0)7535286028 46

March 2017 | Vol.18 Issue 2

www.hawksheadrelish.com

shelf talk

packs, promotions, people

Drop-shipping Angel to spread foodie wings By ANDREW DON

A new drop-shipment specialist has launched focusing on supplying farm shops, delicatessens and food halls with niche artisan food and drink products. The Fine Food Angel has been created by David Mack, a former graphic designer and management consultant, and his wife Emma, who runs artisan granola and muesli breakfast cereals business Purple Patch Cereals. The automated web-based system helps independent retailers discover and order direct from artisan food producers while avoiding the ordering, accounting and administration burden usually associated with having lots of direct suppliers. Retailers have a single invoice to pay, no matter how many different producers they order from, while producers can concentrate on selling without worrying about account set-up, processing

extra invoices and placing individual orders. The Fine Food Angel had signed up about 50 producers by the time it started a one-month “soft launch” on January 25, including Wildings, Rana’s Bakery, Tigg’s, Saf Life, Melyn Mon and Urban Grains. David Mack said more were requesting

membership each day. The couple launched the business because they wanted to sell direct to retailers for transparency, control and a fair proﬁt margin, while simultaneously targeting attractive retail prices. “We recognised, however, that conventional direct supply created a burden on the retailer side.

“We want to help independent retailers discover new artisan food producers, who are often hard to find, and then be able to purchase from them in a cost- and time-efficient way. We want to empower artisan food producers via an additional route to market.” Mack said the long-term vision was to become the de facto route for direct trade between retailers and producers in the UK. “We have plans to move into the foodservice space too using the same platform. The model is similar to Marcus Carter’s wellestablished Artisan Food Club. Carter said: “The traditional wholesale route doesn’t trade with very small producers so there is a lot more room in the market for this model.” The model was simple, Carter said, but the challenge was preparing artisan producers to be able to supply shops. “It’s getting the producers ready that’s the hard part.” www.thefinefoodangel.co.uk

Tiptree continues sweet spreads with nut-free chocolate variety By MICHAEL LANE

Preserve specialist Wilkin & Sons has added a nut-free chocolate variety, described as “trufﬂe in a jar”, to its range of Tiptree sweet spreads. The product, which is made by blending Belgian dark chocolate (60%) with

sugar, butter and double cream, joins the salted caramel and banoffee spreads launched last year. Available from independent retailers in 205g jars (RRP £2.99), the spread can be eaten on toast or pancakes, warmed and poured over ice cream or added to pastry recipes. “We’ve been perfecting our Tiptree chocolate spread recipe for over three years,” said Wilkin & Sons director Scott Goodfellow. “It’s like chocolate trufﬂe in a jar. Even better, anyone avoiding nuts and palm oil can now enjoy a deeply delicious chocolate moment, as it’s made in our nut free factory, just like our jams.”

Mrs Bridges is now sporting a new look and new jars after its ﬁrst revamp in 15 years. The Scottish preserve brand’s signature jars now feature a new logo and mop caps tied with a copper bow. A new 113g jar size has also been added to the range. “We are looking to not only inspire our customers with a refreshed look, but also underpin our heritage that we are so proud of,” said MD Martin Grant. “We have done this by introducing copper into the design, representing our authentic cooking methods with copper pans.”

www.tiptree.com

www.mrsbridges.com

what's new... To celebrate International Women’s Day, Divine Chocolate is offering its bestselling 70% dark bar in limited edition packaging. The new sleeve, which went on sale at the end of February, will feature an illustration of a woman cocoa farmer – a gesture to the work of the brand’s coowner Kuapa Kokoo in Ghana. www.divinechocolate.com

Artisan crisp company Fairfields Farm has launched two flavours of tortilla chip. Available in 125g bags (RRP £1.50), nacho cheese and jalapeño & lime join Fairfield Farm's range of handcooked potato, vegetable and lentil crisps. www.fairfieldsfarmcrisps. co.uk

Organic baby food brand Piccolo has unveiled the Pure range of purées, boasting ﬁve single fruit ﬂavours in clear packaging. Suitable for children from 6 months’ old, Pure apple, banana, Stanley plum, mango and Williams pear will all come in pouches with an RRP of £1. www.mylittlepiccolo.com

Mrs Bridges gets a makeover

Looking for suppliers accredited by the Guild of Fine Food? Follow the logo

Rude Health will be launching a number of its dairy alternatives in a mini size for on-the-go consumption, and its almond drink is the ﬁrst to get the treatment. Made from organic almonds, natural spring water, organic rice, organic coldpressed sunﬂower oil and sea salt, it will now come in 250ml cartons with an RRP of £1. www.rudehealth.com

Vol.18 Issue 2 | March 2017

shelf talk Teapigs latest blends offer drinkers a boost Teapigs is rolling out a new line-up of teas that have been blended to give drinkers speciﬁc health beneﬁts, including detoxing. The company’s Clean ‘n’ Green detox variety is a blend of green tea, lemongrass, ginger, coconut and dandelion leaves that is designed to give the body a spring clean and can be drunk both hot and cold. It has also developed a Sleepy blend to help people wind down and a variety called Up Beet: a mix of beets, spice and hibiscus to get drinkers energized and ready for the gym. All three come in packs

of 15 tea temples with an RRP of £3.99. Louise Allen, teapigs co-founder, said the new range had been developed in response to demand for healthy green and herbal teas. “All our teas are healthy but we’ve put together this special range of “feel-good teas” with ingredients that give speciﬁc beneﬁts. And we’ve made sure they taste amazing too. These are not ‘healthy teas’ that are consumed whilst holding your nose; because we use real, whole, top quality ingredients, these teas both taste and do good.” www.teapigs.co.uk

packs, promotions, people

chef’s selection FOOD WRITER CLARE HARGREAVES INTERVIEWS TOP BRITISH CHEFS ABOUT THEIR FAVOURITE STORECUPBOARD PRODUCTS

Seldon Curry Chef-owner Wallfish, Bristol Seldon Curry previously cooked at Mark Hix restaurants in Lyme Regis and Soho, at Ducksoup in London’s Soho, and with Rowley Leigh at Le Café Anglais, before opening his own bistro in Clifton. www. wallﬁshbistro. co.uk

The Somerset Cider Brandy Company’s cider vinegar I love this full-bodied unpasteurised cider vinegar as it’s so intensely apple-y, far more than other cider vinegars I’ve tried which tend to have a cloying artificial taste. I discovered it when visiting Burrow Hill farm to try its cider brandy, which we also stock at the restaurant. I use the vinegar in a mustard-based dressing for salads. I also brush it onto fish while it’s cooking, to give it a bittersweet glaze. It works particularly well with fish such as turbot and dover sole. www.ciderbrandy.co.uk

Westcombe Dairy ricotta I knew about Westcombe’s cheddar (which we also use) but only discovered their ricotta on a visit to The Bristol Cheesemonger. Made from the whey left over from cheddarmaking, it’s light and fresh tasting, with plenty of lactic ﬂavour. It’s great that they have found a way to transform a waste product into a fantastic versatile cheese in its own right. We use the ricotta in a starter with Jerusalem artichokes and pickled walnuts, which make a perfect combo. www.westcombedairy.com

what’s new... Welsh spring water company Radnor Hills has added a new ﬂavour to its Heartsease Farm sparkling pressé range. Strawberry & mint will be available in 750ml and 330ml glass bottles, as well as 425ml premium PET bottles. It joins a line-up that also includes apple & rhubarb and raspberry lemonade.

Sharpham Park organic pearled spelt I love the nuttiness of this product. I used to use it as the base for a ﬁsherman’s stew when I worked at Hix Oyster & Fish House in Lyme Regis. The spelt has the outer layer of bran removed by bouncing it over rotating stones; this opens up the grain which means it absorbs ﬂavours nicely. I like it in a risotto – I put a garlic and parsley purée through it and serve it with deep-fried bacon and pickled chanterelles. Sometimes I serve it as an accompaniment for a roast. Or I fry it in beef dripping to make a sort of beef popcorn. www.sharphampark.com

www.radnorhills.co.uk

North East distillery Poetic License is kicking off its ‘The Rarities’ series of one-off spirits with an orange blossom gin. Described as slightly sweeter than a typical gin with hints of vanilla and a lingering citrus ﬁnish, the spirit will be released in a limited run of a few hundred bottles.

www.dovesfarm.co.uk

Goodness Gracious Food Company has developed three organic purées that will be gentle on small children’s’ digestive systems. Pumpkin & coconut milk purée with cardamom; parsnip, courgette & kale & quinoa purée with cumin & fennel seeds; and sweet potato, butternut squash & carrot purée all come in 140g pouches.

Opies pickled walnuts in malt vinegar Opies’ pickled walnuts are my favourite food of all time – and far better than anything I could make (and I’ve tried). As a boy I used to steal them from my dad’s drinks cabinet. The walnuts are harvested before the shell forms, while they are still green, and are then cooked and marinated in spiced malt vinegar. The beauty of Opies’ walnuts is their texture, as they are soft and crisp at the same time. They enliven any dish – and with their black colour, look incredible too. I include them in my salad of beetroot, tomato and artichoke, and they give it a lovely sharpness. I also use them (along with dark greens) to dress an onglet steak.

www.goodnessgraciousfoods.com

www.opiesfoods.com

www.poeticlicensedistillery.co.uk

Doves Farm free from gluten plain white flour I use this flour not for baking but for frying. I make a batter and deep-fry oysters in it, and then serve them with a jalapeño mayonnaise. It makes a crispy, spicy dish, and works best with this flour because it is a good vehicle for other flavours.

March 2017 | Vol.18 Issue 2

Looking for suppliers accredited by the Guild of Fine Food? Follow the logo

NEW 8 x 150ml Indian Tonic Water

8 x 150ml Club Soda

www.folkingtons.com 8 x 150ml Indian Tonic Water (Perfectly Light)

8 x 150ml Bitter Lemon

8 x 150ml Ginger Ale

8 x 150ml Sicilian Lemonade

Come and see us at the Farm Shop & Deli Show on stand no G30 Vol.18 Issue 2 | March 2017

tel/fax: +44 020 8803 5344 mobile: +44 079 732 948 56 email: info@ilgelatodiariela.com

www.ilgelatodiariela.com

Kent’s Kitchen stockpots make winter cooking easier and tastier.

Great Taste award-winning Speciality Teas and Coffees www.sdbellsteacoffee.com 028 9047 1774

March 2017 | Vol.18 Issue 2

Visit www.kentskitchen.co.uk, email emma@kentskitchen.co.uk or call 07966 888240

Fo se r st e w oc eb kist sit s e

Ireland’s Oldest Independent Tea & Coffee Merchants

The stockpot range includes beef, chicken and vegetable that all add a great depth of ﬂavour to home-made dishes. Just pop these clever gel stocks straight into soups, stews or casseroles or dissolve in water to add to risottos. All stockpots are GLUTEN FREE!

shelf talk

packs, promotions, people

what’s trending NICK BAINES KEEPS YOU UP-TO-DATE WITH THE NEWEST DISHES, FLAVOURS AND INNOVATION IN FOOD AND DRINK Orange wine There are two types of orange wine – those that have turned orange through oxidisation and those that gain their colour from contact with grape skins. Both are enjoying wide acclaim at the moment, gracing restaurant wine lists and even some retailers’ shelves; Ottolenghi is now selling them both to drink in or take home. Those who enjoy sherry are likely to be a fan of these amber hued wines, which are complex, slightly tannic and often carry a little acidity. Mojama Cured meat is an enduring favourite on the deli counter but it seems we need to make room for a littleknown Spanish favourite made from fish. Mojama is salt-cured, air-dried tuna loin that’s served sliced paper thin, much like jamon. Mojama is being used at Liverpool’s Lunya and at Alresford’s Polpo Negro where it’s served with watermelon and olive oil. Brindisa currently imports whole 500g pieces of mojama that can be cut to order. Basque Beef Old dairy cows might not be the first thing you think of when considering the best beef, but that is what’s hitting the menus of restaurants up and down the UK, including as Cumbria’s Lake Road Kitchen and Bristol’s Bellita. Txuleton, as this style of beef is called in Northern Spain, comes from Basque or Galician cows which have been slaughtered at between eight and 18 years old. Expect a big payoff in complexity and length of flavour. Charcoal The onslaught of superfoods never lets up and right now we’re seeing the resurgence of charcoal as an ingredient, and not just in crackers. Press London, the hyper-designed, achingly cool juice specialist, recently launched a charcoal lemonade and it says the ‘activated’ charcoal is great for detoxes and aids the healing process of the body. Love it or loathe it, the health food market provides a ton of retail opportunity. Impossible Burger California based Impossible Foods has significantly raised the bar when it comes to faux-meats with a burger that looks, tastes, and feels like a real one – it even bleeds red juices. The impressive meat substitute has been advocated by the most carnivorous of chefs, with Momofuku’s David Chang making it a permanent fixture on his menu. With vegan ingredients like seitan also starting to appear more commercially now too, you can expect the meat substitute market to enjoy serious progression this year.

Scarlett & Mustard serves up salsa Made with 66% fresh local tomatoes, Scarlett & Mustard’s new trio of salsas are said to “pack a punch”. The additive- and gluten-free products – Cool & Classic, Hot & Spicy and Subtly Smoked – all come in wholesale cases of 6x300g for £12.54. Each jar has an RRP of £2.99. www.scarlettandmustard.co.uk

Find French artisans with new trade site Retailers and restaurants can now source a wide variety of French artisan products and regional specialities directly from producers via a new trade-only website. Gourming, developed by the Led Duff Group, is focused on showcasing small-to-medium-sized food businesses, particularly those new to exporting, so many of the products listed have not been available in the UK before. Currently, the site lists more than 5,000 products from 250 producers, all of which have met traceability audit standards. www.gourming.com

Highly traceable honey seeks independent listings Origin Honey is now seeking independent retail listings for its runny honeys, which can be traced back to specific postcodes. The brand, which is part of ethical beehive company Plan Bee, offers a number of Founders Reserve honeys (case 12x227g jars, £60.00+VAT), selected by the company’s founder Warren Bader. Each batch can be traced to specific hives, whether they are inner-city or rural bees, and boasts specific flavour profiles depending on the origin – hand-written on each jar. Origin also produces Honeygar, a blend of its

honey and British apple cider vinegar, which is said to have a number of health beneﬁts when consumed by the spoonful or used in stir fries and salad dressings. Cases of 12 bottles cost £43.68+VAT. www.originhoney.com

Easy Bean adds snap Easy Bean has added Cheddar Crunch and seaweed & sesame to its chickpea crispbreads. The new ﬂavours come in 110g cartons of six crispbreads (RRP £2.95), with eight cartons per case. All three of its original crispbreads – Moroccan spice, seeds & black pepper, mung bean & chive – have received Great Taste awards. www.easybean.co.uk

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Vol.18 Issue 2 | March 2017

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Vol.18 Issue 2 | March 2017

shelf talk Henry and Hannah Mackley both have close family ties to Ludlow’s food community

Dancing to their own tune At Harp Lane Deli, Henry and Hannah Mackley have reinvented a Ludlow landmark food shop in the image of their home larder: ‘Everything has to look beautiful and taste good’

t might not have the heritage of Fortnum & Mason (established in 1707) or Paxton & Whitﬁeld (1797), but the little deli at 4 Church Street in Ludlow is something of an institution. Set up nearly three decades ago as Ludlow Larder, it then saw 13 years as Deli on the Square under the ownership of Maggie Wright. With its prime location in a beautiful medieval building at one corner of the Shropshire town’s traditional market square, it was perfectly situated to ride the wave of interest in Ludlow that followed the launch there of the UK’s ﬁrst major food festival in the mid-1990s. Now, along with shops like its neighbour Mousetrap Cheese and butchers like D W Wall & Son, it’s at the core of Ludlow’s reputation as a food destination. No pressure, then, on Henry and Hannah Mackley, who took

March 2017 | Vol.18 Issue 2

over three years ago and bravely set about reimagining a store that some shoppers had been loyally supporting for three decades. “We had big boots to ﬁll,” admits Henry, when I visit the Mackleys at what is now called Harp Lane Deli on a grey Thursday afternoon in early February. Luckily, though, the couple came to the shop with a strong local foodie heritage of their own. Not only are they both Ludlow born and bred, but their parents were together instrumental in setting up the now-famous festival in 1995. Hannah’s father is a retired former MD of Pol Roger Champagne, while Henry’s mother Lesley is a food writer and cook and is heavily involved in the Slow Food movement. “Our parents are all very fooddriven,” says Hannah, adding it was “kind of inevitable” she and Henry would eventually work in this sector.

Deli of the Month INTERVIEW BY MICK WHITWORTH

Although she’s currently at the shop only part-time while looking after their two young children, Hannah previously worked in sales and marketing for multinational ingredients supplier ADM. “I’ve always been in customer service or sales in something to do with food,” she tells me. If those are useful skills for a deli owner, Henry’s experience was even better. After university in London he cheffed for a couple of years, then “stumbled into a job” at Harvey Nichols Fifth Floor in London, home of its main restaurants and

foodmarket. After a stint out of the food industry – “I did a bit of property marketing” – he returned to Ludlow, where for three years he helped run the deli section at Ludlow Food Centre, on the A49 just outside the town. And it was here he learned many of the tricks he is now applying in his own deli. “I wouldn’t have been able to run this place without that experience,” he says, although he also stresses that the Food Centre – built 10 years ago on the edge of the Earl of Plymouth Estate and incorporating a large café,food hall and several onsite food production units – was an entirely different operation. “It’s almost incomparable,” he says. “They’re a company employing 100-plus people. We employ one full-timer and four or ﬁve part-time. And they have quite a different customer to us.

deli of the month vital statistics Location: 4 Church St, Ludlow, Shropshire SY8 1AP Floorspace: 500 sq ft (approx.) Turnover: £500,000 Staff: 1 full time; 4-5 part-time

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With limited space in the shop, located in a medieval building on Ludlow’s market square, the range has been carefully 'curated’ by the Mackleys l Ludlow

“But the experience was invaluable. I was co-managing cheese and deli, but towards the end of my three years there I spent more time in the office working on new product development. So in a relatively short time I covered a lot of ground.” Even a quick glance around the shelves in the compact little Harp Lane Deli tells you a lot about the approach the Mackleys have taken. With limited space they’ve gone for the best of everything, but also for products that look great on-shelf. As Telegraph food writer Xanthe Clay put it when she spoke at Harp Lane’s official opening, it’s “curated”. “In general,” says Hannah, “everything is here because it looks beautiful and tastes good. It has to do both of those things.” “And it’s here because we like it,” her husband adds. “What’s the point in having a shop like this if you can’t fill it with stuff you’d want at home?” He continues: “It sounds a bit superficial, but I want everything in my cupboard at home to look nice, and it’s the same in shop. In

2017, there’s no excuse for bad packaging.” Products like Ortiz tuna from Brindisa and Jose Gourmet canned fish, bought through a small Portuguese importer in London, set the tone, along with McClure’s dill pickles from Detroit, USA, sourced through Buckley & Beale. “These are ferociously expensive,” says Henry, holding up a big jar of McClure’s. “You don’t get much change out of £9. But on a scale of 1 to 10, how sexy is it?” It’s three years since the Mackleys took over the Deli on the Square, and they then closed the shop for six months to effectively rebuild the interior – within the limits of its Grade II listing – before reopening under their new name. Walls were squared up, and a joiner was brought in to install deep shelves, carefully measured to enable full cases of

product to be put out on display. The building, squeezed between Church Lane and Harp Lane, is the width of a standard §medieval “rod, pole or perch” – just over 16ft – and perhaps twice that in depth, with narrow stairs up to small first- and second-floor rooms. The first floor incorporates Henry’s kitchen and a tiny 6-8 cover informal dining room that is used a few times each month for pre-booked functions. Storage is on the top floor, and you wouldn’t want to be going up and down those narrow stairs too often in a day. “At Christmas, things become pretty tricky,” says Hannah. Another aspect of the refit was the addition of a small coffee bar on one side of the shop, encouraging shoppers to linger. “It was a very functional deli before,” says Henry. “We wanted to make it more of an extension of our own home – a nice

I want everything in my cupboard at home to look nice, and it’s the same in shop. In 2017, there’s no excuse for bad packaging.

Brewing Co – Blonde beer l Ortiz tuna and anchovies l Jose Gourmet canned fish

l Easy

José coffee Nut Co luxury granola l Handmade Scotch Egg Co scotch eggs l MacNeil’s smoked salmon l Brindisa salted Catalan almonds l Galeta pasteis de nata (Portuguese custards tarts) l Une Normande à Londres – French saucisson l Simply Delicious cakes l Neals’ Yard Creamery – Perroche goats’ cheese l Fromage to Age – Roquefort Vieux Berger l Ludlow

Vol.18 Issue 2 | March 2017

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March 2017 | Vol.18 Issue 2

shelf talk

deli of the month

place to be in.” Plans for an upstairs café were quickly abandoned as “logistically ridiculous”, not least because of those narrow stairs. But reinstating the first-floor kitchen, which had only been used for storage during Maggie Wright’s ownership, means Henry can produce quiches or patés for the deli counter as well as catering for those occasional fixed-menu private parties. “We don’t have the staff or the time to have a permanent dining room,” he says, “and it’s not much of a money-spinner, but it’s a nice little addition and it helps keep us creatively excited.” His biggest buzz, he tells me, comes from finding new products and suppliers – one area where he felt limited at Ludlow Food Centre. “They were very constrained, at least initially, by their local sourcing policy. But we don’t have any percentage rules here, so it’s refreshing to get away from that and talk to different wholesalers and suppliers. He particularly enjoys finding small or niche suppliers. “Obviously we get some of our stuff from

Cotswold Fayre or Hider, and we do very well with The Fine Cheese Company – they’re really good people to talk to. But I go and visit other delis a lot, with a deli man’s eyes, and I can always see when someone has just bought everything from Cotswold Fayre. “I’ve just bought some stuff from Christian Gimblett of The Good

Evans and now owned by catering wholesaler Aubrey Allen. “Simeon comes up here regularly to take me out for a pie and a pint and to chew the fat, and that’s what makes me tick,” says Henry. “I enjoy that personal contact – and I trust him. I’m not very patient with people who muck us around.” With turnover currently around

Ludlow is that rare thing: a fully functioning market town where people still use the butchers, the bakers and the ironmongers Food Network, who goes across to France with a van twice a month and brings back nice jars of cassoulet and Perard fish – things I remember from my own visits to France. It’s talking to guys like that that gets me really excited.” Others singled out for praise include Bath-based coffee supplier Easy José, Pembrokeshire preserves and syrups supplier Coedcanlas, Spanish specialist Brindisa and Harp Lane’s main cheese supplier, Fromage to Age, run by Simeon Hudson-

£500,000, business is looking healthy for Harp Lane. But there is one cloud on the horizon. As FFD went to press, outline planning permission was granted for a supermarket on the edge of town – the first mainstream store far enough out of Ludlow to suck business from the centre. Lidl and Sainsbury’s are both said to be interested in the site, but the Mackleys’ real fears are that Waitrose might start sniffing round. It seems like a shocking planning decision for a town that draws so

many visitors on the strength of its traditional, independent-rich high street. Henry said an existing Tesco and Aldi, close to Ludlow centre, “sort of work” because shoppers can walk from there to the high street and market in a matter of minutes. If an edge-of-town store is built, he says: “I fear for what would happen because I’ve seen it in other towns. Whether it’s an Asda or a Waitrose it will inevitably draw people away.” But there’s no doubting the current strength of Ludlow’s traditional town centre. “It’s that rare thing: a fully functioning market town where people still use the butchers, the bakers and the ironmonger,” Henry says. “It’s hard to do the statistics, but probably 70% of our customers are people who live here and come to the shops every day.” Fingers and toes crossed that, as the developers of the proposed supermarket claim, it will be Aldi and Tesco who feel the impact, not Ludlow’s independents. www.harplane.com Vol.18 Issue 2 | March 2017

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March 2017 | Vol.18 Issue 2