CHEESEWIRE
news and views from the cheese counter
Cheesemongers want more British blues and softs to plug Euro gap By Patrick McGuigan
Gaps in the market for new British cheeses are growing as online sales boom and Brexit requirements make Continental cheeses harder to import. While COVID initially presented serious challenges to British artisan cheesemakers, sales have bounced back and are growing rapidly with big opportunities for new and innovative products, according to cheesemongers. Better packaging and branding, smaller products and new soft and blue cheeses were all identified as gaps in the market. “We’re looking for more British lactic goat and sheep’s
milk cheeses in different shapes and sizes,” said Rory Mellis, director at IJ Mellis in Scotland. “That’s only going to continue because new paperwork requirements for imported cheeses are likely to mean price increases and delays, especially for small, soft cheeses.” He added that packaging was also a more important consideration to protect cheeses during delivery. “Online sales are such a big part of what we do now that cheesemakers need to work with us on that, supplying individual cheeses in wooden cases or boxes.” At Paxton and Whitfield, buyer Dan Bliss echoed these comments. “There’s definitely more
Paxton & Whitfield is one of several retailers seeking more UK cheese
room for British goat and sheep’s cheeses in different styles, shapes, sizes and age profiles,” she said. “I’d also like to see more innovation in blues beyond crumbly and Gorgonzola-style cheeses. Rogue River Blue and Cabrales are good examples of [foreign] blues that are really different.” Different sizes are also an easy way for cheesemakers to innovate, she added. “If you look at Baron Bigod, it comes in 3kg wheels for large farm shops, 1kg wheels, which are great for foodservice, and 200g cheeses for delis and hampers.” Ruth Raskin, care & quality manager at The Fine Cheese Co., also highlighted British blues as an area for evolution. “It would be nice to see some really spicy, piquant blues, as well as more oozy, gooey cheeses,” she said. “There’s also a burgeoning market for retail-ready cheeses, but better label design and good quality paper are essential.” Paxtons’ Dan Bliss added that the name of a cheese is also vital. She said: “A lot of British cheeses are named after a saint or for some reason start with the letter ‘B’. Choosing a name that stands out and is easy to remember can make a big difference.”
NEWS IN BRIEF Retail cheese sales at Christmas fell in volume by 2.8% compared to 2020, but were up by 13.8% compared to Christmas 2019, before the pandemic began, according to data from Kantar for the four weeks ending 26th December 2021. Derbyshire Stilton-maker Hartington Creamery has launched a new soft blue cheese to celebrate the Queen’s Platinum Jubilee. The limited-edition Platinum Blue is “sweet, savoury and mild”. Brighton-based The Great British Charcuterie Co has opened a cheese shop and wine bar in Worthing. Curds and Cases in the Montague Quarter is the company’s second shop, joining Curds and Whey in Hove.
Ivy’s Reserve Vintage Cheddar is the world’s first carbon-neutral cheddar, according to maker Wyke Farms in Somerset. The 18-month cheddar was recognised as carbon neutral by the Carbon Trust, which has undertaken a “cradle-to-grave” footprint analysis of the company’s processes. Wyke has reduced its carbon footprint by cutting farm emissions through incentive schemes and regenerative farming practices, but also by focussing on areas, such as cheesemaking techniques, green energy and conservation.
THREE WAYS WITH...
La Retorta Made by Finca Pascualete in Extremadura, Spain, this 160g tortastyle cheese is made with raw sheep’s milk and cardoon rennet. It’s aged for more than two months and has a pungent, orange rind with a smooth, soft interior that liquefies over time. Flavours range from sweet sheepy notes to hay and mustard, with a distinct herbal bitterness at the finish. Vermouth For a small cheese, La Retorta packs a big flavour punch, so needs a wine that can match it for intensity. Amontillado is a popular choice – the salty, nutty sherry faces up to the intense cheese – but vermouth also works well, dovetailing with the sharpness in the cheese. Sussex-based Bolney Estate’s Rosso English Vermouth is lovely with a rich fruity flavour, taking in sloes and blackcurrants, plus a floral, herbal bitterness. Serve it with tonic and ice in the summer or straight up in the winter. Sauerkraut Sweet chutneys and honeys jar with the bitterness of La Retorta, making condiment matching tricky. There are no such problems with a sharp, crunchy Sauerkraut, however, which contrasts with the richness of the soft cheese and brings complementary vegetal notes to the cheese’s funky rind. Breadsticks In Spain, the cheese is often smeared onto crusty bread, while ‘picos’ breadsticks are also good dipped into the silky paste. Try Picos Artesanos from UK distributor Delicioso, which are made with extra virgin olive oil in Andalusia and won a one-star award in last year’s Great Taste. Vol.23 Issue 2 | March 2022
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