FFD October-November 2020 by Guild of Fine Food

October-November 2020 Volume 21 Issue 9 gff.co.uk

Get the drop on confectionery Check out the sweet selection in our latest product round-up

ALSO INSIDE Paxton & Whitfield’s new MD Peter’s Yard rebrand Loyalty schemes in foodservice

Vo t e d B e s t R u m Pu n c h

of Barbados

October-November 2020 | Vol.21 Issue 9

CONTENTS 5 NEWS 10 SHOP TALK 15 FOODSERVICE 21 CHEESEWIRE 28 CATEGORY FOCUS: STORECUPBOARD INGREDIENTS, CHOCOLATE & CONFECTIONERY 32 CATEGORY FOCUS: LAST-MINUTE CHRISTMAS IDEAS, SEAFOOD 37 CHARCUTERIE 39 PETER’S YARD REBRAND 41 SHELF TALK 48 DELI OF THE MONTH 55 GUILD TALK

October-November 2020 Volume 21 Issue 9 gff.co.uk

It is hard to tell what is actually changing in public or in politics. You could say it’s all starting to seem a bit ‘Wash. Rinse. Repeat’. By Michael Lane, Editor

Not content with corrupting the term “oven-ready” forever last year, the Government has continued its assault on the English language in 2020 – thanks in no small part to COVID-19. It’s fair to say that the rhetorical device known as the ‘rule of three’ has taken a bit of beating this year. First, we had ‘Stay Home, Protect the NHS, Save Lives’, which morphed into the slightly amorphous ‘Stay Alert, Control the Virus, Save Lives’. After the decidedly less-gloomy, ‘Enjoy Summer Safely’ and ‘Let’s Get Back’, we’re currently all being drilled in nursery school stylings of ‘Hands. Face. Space’. It’s little wonder the Government has gone monosyllabic with its sloganeering when there are so many people out there that still don’t seem to have the hang of putting their masks over their faces properly. To be clear, I’m not mocking the sentiment of these slogans and I take

the virus seriously. But it is hard to tell what is actually changing in public or in politics. You could say it’s all starting to seem a bit ‘Wash. Rinse. Repeat’. September and October have had a similar atmosphere to March, in some ways. The line graphs on the TV briefings are beginning to curve back upwards, the term ‘lockdown’ is being used in the present tense and there’s even been a hint of another toilet roll shortage. I suppose there is some kind of evolution because you can feel it on the ground. We’re all a bit fed up of that creeping insecurity – and some members of the British public’s inability to follow ever-simpler orders. In retail and hospitality, the chipper customer service that was coming so naturally in April, May and June is certainly being put to the test. In truth, there was always uncertainty in the background but now businesses are having to think

very seriously about staffing (see page 5). Then there are the potential cost increases throughout the supply chain that Brexit might bring with it via tariffs (see page 6). The first few pages of this edition may not do much for your pessimism but once you make it beyond them you might feel a little bit lighter. I don’t think I’ve ever seen so many new shop openings in one issue. Even if the UK is teetering on taking one step back, plenty of retailers are convinced about the next two steps being forward. And, we’re continuing to hear how the virus has led both new and established businesses – like Hope Farm shop (page 10), Duchy Charcuterie (page 35) and Paxton & Whitfield (page 22) – into new areas. The slogans may yet get more irritating, running your business might become trickier and serving customers might become even tougher but we can’t let those masks slip just yet. Keep going.

Help us discover 2020’s Best Brands

Get the drop on confectionery Check out the sweet selection in our latest product round-up

ALSO INSIDE Paxton & Whitfield’s new MD Peter’s Yard rebrand Loyalty schemes in foodservice

Image: © Imagestore | Dreamstime.com

It is time again for FFD’s annual survey of independent retailers to discover which brands have been selling well for you in 2020. As many of you will know, we publish the results in our Best Brands special edition at the end of the year. We hope that this exercise will be doubly useful this year. Not only will it be nice to celebrate the suppliers that have been doing a good job after a very tough year, but the data we gather will provide some insight into how things have played out and could potentially inform how retailers might prepare for next year. To get the best picture of the market, we need as many responses as possible. Please help us and the industry by taking the survey (it will take 10 minutes at most) at: www.gff.co.uk/best-brands-2020

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Vol.21 Issue 9 | October-November 2020

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NOT ONLY PASTA

NEWS

Complicated support scheme could create cash flow problems for independents By Greg Pitcher

An employment law expert has warned fine food businesses to think twice before deciding on staffing levels this autumn – saying they need to be “good at maths” and digest “a lot of rules” laid down by ministers. Kirsty Rogers, employment partner at global legal firm DWF, said that firms in the sector should be careful before deciding to use the UK government’s latest staff support schemes. Chancellor Rishi Sunak will bring in the Job Support Scheme to replace the furlough initiative from November. This will effectively see the government, the employer and the employee share the cost of unworked time where at least a third of pre-pandemic hours are worked. But, Rogers said: “The employer pays 55 per cent of the wages for someone working 33 per cent of their usual hours,” she said. “It’s not brilliant.”

A legal expert has suggested retailers should seek the advice of an accountant when looking into the new support scheme

She added that employers would initially pay the government’s share to the employee, only receiving compensation in the New Year, so it could cause cash flow issues. And the scheme is only available to staff on a company’s pay system before 23rd September – so anyone let go during the pandemic can’t be brought back now on this arrangement. Alternatives exist, though, according to Rogers. “You could make someone redundant on the basis that the need for a full-time employee is not

there. You should offer them a suitable alternative, which could be one third of their hours. And you can say you can’t afford the government scheme.” Meanwhile the Treasury will pay a Job Retention Bonus to employers for bringing staff back from furlough and paying them an average of at least £520 per month to the end of January. Deciding whether to make a redundancy or use one or both of the latest initiatives comes down to a fine balance of costs and benefits, said Rogers. “Using the schemes

can retain skills and allow flexibility to bring people’s hours back up at Christmas. It also depends on the cost of making someone redundant – if someone has long service and a long notice period then that can be costly. “You have got to be good at maths. It is worth asking an accountant or payroll expert to review this as it isn’t easy.” Indeed, even the lawyers are struggling to keep up with the fast-changing situation. “A lot of problems have arisen because we found out about schemes through announcements on the television,” said Rogers. “And then we’ve heard about changes through tweets from the Treasury. “We are still awaiting final guidance on the Job Support Scheme.” The chancellor has since announced that businesses forced to close due to local lockdowns will recieve support up to 80% of employees wages - akin to the government’s original furlough scheme.

City-centre retailers in for ‘challenging’ winter, warns expert Fine food retailers based in town and city centres are in for a “challenging” winter, a key figure has warned. Andrew Goodacre, chief executive of the British Independent Retail Association, said government advice for many people to work from home until the spring meant business models had to change. Ministers announced in September that everyone who can work remotely should do so in a package of virus-fighting measures expected to last six months. Goodacre said: “The measures being implemented around the country are a threat to an already fragile consumer confidence. Footfall is already on average 30 per cent below normal levels, and will not increase for the foreseeable future. “Ultimately this will result in a challenging environment for independent food retailers, especially if they are located in the

WHAT THEY ARE SAYING ABOUT... THE NEW JOB SUPPORT SCHEME SANGITA TRYNER FOUNDER, DELILAH FINE FOODS

“The problem – and talking to peers they say the same – is we can’t afford to pay that money for people not to be at work. We haven’t got the footfall to compensate. Shops need money now if they’re going to keep staff on until January. Meanwhile pubs are bringing people back because they need them – and they will get the retention bonus for nothing.” ROB COPLEY CHAIRMAN, FARM RETAIL ASSOCIATION

“The Job Support Scheme is useful for farm shops that are not doing so well for reasons of location or product range. It maintains viability and keeps jobs open. But it is no good whatsoever for those businesses based on events such as weddings or trade shows – they have no work. It is going to be unbelievable how many redundancies we will see in that sector.” KIRSTY ROGERS EMPLOYMENT PARTNER, DWF

larger towns and cities. Those food retailers located near travel hubs have already seen a substantial decline in sales and winter does not look any more encouraging.” The response to the pandemic was rapidly changing the way small retailers operated, Goodacre said. “A strong digital footprint is now a necessity and not a choice. With social restrictions in place

and Christmas approaching, food retailers will need to focus on offering products to feed groups of six – quality and diversity replacing quantity. “Deliveries or click and collect will also need to be available. In simple terms, retailers have to ask themselves: If customers cannot come to me, how do I take the shop to the customers?”

“There are benefits to the schemes in giving you flexibility and looking after your staff – people remember that and give you more back in the end. But it is a cost to business, a much bigger cost than [the furlough scheme]. And it is hard to navigate.”

Vol.21 Issue 9 | October-November 2020

NEWS

CYBER CRIME

‘Concerned’ importers and producers warn of price rises if no EU trade deal is struck By Greg Pitcher

Independent food importers have warned of dire consequences across the sector if ministers fail to strike a trade deal with the EU before the end of the year. Companies supplying small retailers across the UK said tariffs resulting from a no-deal Brexit would lead to price hikes at a hugely difficult time for the industry. The Government has published a list of global import taxes (see table) that will come into effect on 1st January for all shipments into the UK that don’t benefit from specific trade agreements or exemptions. Kamil Shah, co-founder of Middlesex-based Greek food importer Olive Branch, said the £1.04 tariff to be applied to each kilogram of extra virgin olive oil coming through the border was “stark”. “This can be up to 30% of the retail price for some supermarket brands. We sell at a higher price but

IN BRIEF A bid toSmith Walter protect Fine theFoods has UK’sannounced post-Brexitthe food closure and animal of three welfare stores in the Midlands. standards was rejected The butcher in the Commons. chain revealed The over decision Christmas was slammed that its by Denby campaign Village, groups West such Bromwich as the RSPCA andand Coventry Soil shops Association. would stop trading, leaving it with 11 outlets – many of which are within garden centres.UK The embattled food-to-go market will continue to be impacted Tracklements by COVID overhas the next hired Ben Hallam for to three years, according role offorecast commercial the latest from IGD. manager, It predicts whichthat includes the identifying sector will decline new market by 43% opportunities. y-on-y to £10.8bn Hallam in 2020 joins – an £8.1bn the Wiltshire-based decrease. condiment specialist after 11 years at dairy firm Yeo Valley. A new cheesemonger called The Cheese Hole Co is set to open in Bury Health St Edmunds. food retailer 6

Goods coming into the UK from Europe will be hit with new global import taxes in January if no deal is struck with the EU

it’s still almost 10%.” Shah said he was “concerned” about potentially having to put prices up further just after Christmas with winter restrictions due to the coronavirus still likely to be weighing heavily on retailers. “If our £12 litre of olive oil becomes more expensive then, naturally, consumers’ instincts are to shop around and find

cheaper alternatives.” Guy Tullberg, managing director at Wiltshirebased condiment maker the Tracklement Company, said the company had been forward buying ingredients from Europe ahead of the UK’s full exit from the union. We have been buying extra and we’ve got contracts that cover us until the next crop. “Most of our imported raw products are in the

UK already,” he said. “But we are an artisan manufacturer, making multi-ingredient products with many ingredients and packaging items. Any one of those costs rising by 15% might see the end price go up 7% – and any conversation above inflation is a hard one with everything that’s going on.” Emma Macdonald, co-founder of Devonbased food manufacturer Bay Tree, said she had deliberately avoided spending too much time and energy on preparing for Brexit when so much of the landscape is unknown. “Raw material suppliers have contracted with us for 12 months from this September and nothing has changed yet in their prices but there could be a Brexit clause in the detail,” she admitted. “We have swallowed minimum wage increases but any costs that rise now will impact on prices. “There is nothing worse than the unknown. With COVID-19 and Brexit on top of it people will

Potential global import taxes (UK)* Extra virgin olive oil £104 per 100kg Tomatoes (fresh or chilled) 8% in winter, 14% in summer Onions (fresh or chilled) 8% Garlic (fresh or chilled) 8% plus £100 per 100kg. Sweet peppers (fresh or chilled) 6% Fresh mozzarella £154 per 100kg Strawberries (fresh) 10% Raspberries (fresh) 8% These figures apply where no trade deals or exemptions are in place *from 1 January 2021

give up – they will get so frustrated.” A Department for International Trade spokesperson said: “The UK Global Tariff is tailored to the UK economy and designed to back British businesses, ensuring they compete on fair terms with the rest of the world.”

Ministers urged to commit to post-Brexit PDO agreement A key food industry figure has urged ministers to commit to post-Brexit recognition of EUprotected food names as the UK’s full withdrawal looms ever nearer. Chair of the UK Protected Food Names Association Matthew O’Callaghan insisted that such an agreement would benefit domestic producers. The issue of speciality food and drink has reportedly become a significant strand of increasingly fraught negotiations over the terms of the UK’s exit from the EU. O’Callaghan said it was in the best interests of UK food producers and

October-November 2020 | Vol.21 Issue 9

exporters to keep their European equivalents happy with trade terms. He said that while legislation had been passed to extend EU speciality food protection legislation into UK law for UK products, European goods such as Champagne, Seville Oranges and Parma Ham could be forced to rely on the more cumbersome trademark process to prevent British manufacturers using their monikers. “The withdrawal agreement Boris Johnson signed last year included a reciprocal agreement on this,” O’Callaghan said. “But if there is no deal and we don’t agree to protect the EU’s

Stilton is one British product that could be affected by a change in the UK-EU PDO agreement

protected food names then Continental producers may put pressure on the EU to stop protecting ours. Fair is fair. “I would like to see a reciprocal deal between

the EU and the UK in any trade deal or withdrawal agreement. “Protected food and drink makes up 25 per cent of all UK food and drink exports.”

TO O S EED Y F O R A M AG LI KE T H I S The new packaging designs for Miller’s are not just seedy. They’re fruity,

nutty and redolent of all the natural ingredients used in Miller’s crackers and toasts.

All four ranges have been unified, making it clear the Miller is something of a naturist. That ’s why we can’t show the new designs to you here.

Look out for them, and a 20% off promotional discount with these distributors for the month of October.

October-November 2020 | Vol.21 Issue 9

NEWS

The Camden Grocer confident in expansion despite the pandemic By Tom Dale

The Camden Grocer is expanding despite a potential second wave of coronavirus, opening a new department store-style unit near Borough Market. The new shop has been set up in the former Menier Chocolate Factory as a joint venture with the building’s landlord, Southwark Square Ltd. Menier Store features a retail and café area curated by The Camden Grocer – which already runs a shop in Camden Market – as well as various concessions including house plant company In-Tray Plants and a Scandinavian-style homewares brand. The Camden Grocer’s co-founders Matt Bunch and Scott Winston told FFD that they had been talking to the landlord loosely about launching a grocery project, but they were then approached mid-lockdown about fast-

Industry mourns Dio Jones The man behind twotime Supreme Champion producer Welsh Lady Preserves, Dio Jones, has passed away, aged 81. Born in North Wales in 1939, Dio launched Welsh Lady with wife Marion in 1966 after selling their lemon curd at markets and to small retailers. Still using recipes developed by Dio over 50 years ago, the brand now sells its preserves internationally and has picked up a raft of Great Taste stars over the years. Tributes to the hardworking businessman poured in, with one reading: “Dio was such a great character and wonderful man. A real ‘cariad’.” The Jones family will continue to run Welsh Lady and said: “We as a family sincerely hope that we can do him proud with our work to continue his legacy.”

Food and lifestyle retail collide in Menier Store

tracking the idea. The concept evolved from there, said Bunch, into a departmentstyle store where the Grocer’s team runs the administrative side of the business. “It’s something we wanted to explore, it felt like the right time to do it and it was all going to be done on a very low-risk, low-cost basis,” he said. While Bunch admitted that it wasn’t the most obvious time to launch

a London food store, he remained confident. “There’s not as many people commuting in right now, but they will return, there are people living and working here and there’s been a lot of development in the area in the last few years. “It’s a calculated risk.” Winston said that the pair could see an opportunity in the idea despite the circumstances surrounding COVID. “If things change

DOWN ON THE FARM Located in Willington, Betty’s Farm Shop is undergoing major building works, with Betty’s claiming that its soon-to-open farm shop will be the biggest in Europe. With a fully automated vending shop and new website and app, customers will benefit from extended hours and delivery and click-andcollect services. bettysfarm.co.uk During lockdown, Combe Farm in Honiton was busy planning and preparing for the grand opening of its new farm shop. Combe Farm Shop offers locally sourced produce from the estate’s farmland and the surrounding area. Fresh vegetables, fruit, dairy and other products

IN BRIEF dramatically, then we have a contingency,” he said. “We’ll pivot the business just like we did at Camden.” On the decision to incorporate concessions, Winston said: “What we’ve always said is that we want to build an offer that’s right for the environment and what the customer wants. “Having that big space gave us an opportunity to look at a broader range of products which complement themselves because they’re lifestyle based, and that seems to be working – the customers are saying they love what we’re doing. “We’ll continue to flex the offer based on what the customers want.” The new store, which had a soft launch on Friday 18th September, will initially have two full-time members of staff and will be looking to expand the team if the business grows as footfall increases. menierstore.co.uk

After extensive building work, the newly opened Spotty Dog Farm Shop boasts a butchery, bakery, deli and even a café. Located in Rowde,

Tracklements has hired A petition stop Ben Hallamtofor thethe role European Parliament’s of commercial manager, proposal to banidentifying the use which includes of names such as ‘burger’ new market opportuniand as the well as ties. ‘sausage’, Hallam joins descriptive terms such Wiltshire-based condias ‘yoghurt-style’ and11 ment specialist after ‘cheese from years at alternative’, dairy firm Yeo being Valley.used on vegetarian and vegan products has gathered nearly 140,000 signatures. Health food retailer Planproveg.com/stop-theet Organic has moved veggie-burger-ban/ into the hot food delivery market and teamed up with high-end service Premium smoked Supper, which will courier fish brand, Bleiker’s a selection of to-go items Smokehouse, and sushi from has two Cenappointed Harrison stores. tral LondonCraig as retail sales director to head up its continued growth across UK retail branded and own label. bleikers.co.uk

The latest from farm shops across the country

An artist’s rendering of the new Betty’s Farm Shop

sit alongside the butchery counter with an in-house butcher, and freshly baked breads, cakes, and pastries from the bakery. The farm shop is now open seven days a week and a call-and-collect service is available. combeestate.com

The Free FromFine Food Walter Smith Foods Awards (FFFA) has has announced the launched closure of three three new stores categories and aThe rebrand in the Midlands. for the 2021 butcher chainawards. revealed New gongs for that Bestits over Christmas Independent Denby Village,Brand, West Best FreeFrom and Bromwich Labelling and Coventry Best Packaging shopsFreefrom would stop trading, will be up for grabs at – leaving it with 11 outlets next ceremony. manyyear’s of which are within freefromfoodawards. garden centres. co.uk

Wiltshire, it stocks natural and sustainable products, artwork and eco-gifting ideas, and the Rowdey Cow Café offers an extensive menu using fresh produce with breakfast, lunch and afternoon tea seven days a week. spottydogfarmshop. co.uk

Delivering veg boxes to residents who were unable to leave their homes at the start of lockdown was just the inspiration Tytherleigh Farm Shop needed to push forward and open their very own farm shop in the heart of the village. While continuing to offer a free home delivery service, Tytherleigh’s bricksand-mortar farm shop, near Axminster, is now open seven days a week and stocks an abundance of local produce such as freshly baked breads, organic meats, and frozen ready meals. farmshoptytherleigh. co.uk

In association with

Fabulous Farm Shops fabulousfarmshops.co.uk

Vol.21 Issue 9 | October-November 2020

SHOP TALK HOW WE’VE COPED WITH CORONAVIRUS… EMMA SMITH, co-owner, The Heron Farm Shop & Kitchen, Strathaven, South Lanarkshire

We had been open for less than a year when lockdown was announced at the end of March. My husband Angus and I bought our 124-acre farm in 2008, starting with blackface ewes and six hectares of Christmas trees, but it wasn’t until last year that we decided to diversify to help make the farm financially viable. We took inspiration from a farm shop near where we used to live – Loch Leven’s Larder in Kinross – and, after obtaining planning permission, built a large, airy, oak-framed shop and café to showcase local produce. In the first year, the café emerged as the main driver of the business. We had 85 covers inside and 30 outside. Then, when the crisis hit, it had to close. We kept the shop open, as it was apparent that there was a need to serve the community – primarily vulnerable people who couldn’t get supermarket deliveries. Overnight, Angus built an online shop. We bought a commercial cool box and started a delivery service. Our phone was ringing off the hook. When flour was scarce, thanks to a strong relationship with our supplier, we were able to source catering sacks and break them down into smaller bags. Every single day we were having to adapt. It taught us the importance of being flexible. Windows of opportunity for change are small and if you don’t grab them they disappear. During our first year, because we had been so busy with the café, we hadn’t had time to do what we wanted with the shop. Now we had the opportunity. We expanded our range, bringing in chilled lines such as new cheeses, pies and milk, and launching frozen meals, such as lasagne and fish pie, that we made on the premises. In this respect, the crisis has served as a ‘hard reset’ for our business – a chance to look at what we could do better. On the café side, social distancing requirements for staff have led us to simplify our breakfast menu, which is, in fact, a good thing. As well as requiring our kitchen staff to wear masks, we have taken a zonal approach to food preparation. Now, rather than offering a wide range of choices, we offer a menu which only requires one person at the pass. The café re-opened with 45 covers inside and 50 outside. Tables are two metres apart and we have acquired a reputation for being very strict about hand sanitising and face masks – we have a lot of older customers and feel a responsibility to keep them safe. Being a new business, we hadn’t had a chance to build up a large bank balance before this hit, so it was a case of sink or swim. Luckily, although the closure of the café earlier in the year had a severe impact on our income, we have survived so far! Interview: Lynda Searby Photography: Colin Mearns

October-November 2020 | Vol.21 Issue 9

CONFESSIONS OF A DELI OWNER ANONYMOUS TALES FROM BEHIND THE COUNTER GIVEN MY ANONYMITY, I feel I am in a unique position to tell producers how us small retailers really see it. What you’re about to read is the unvarnished stuff we don’t say at trade events because we think it will offend you. But, because it is (or should be) show season, here my tips for selling into independent retail. Firstly, we want samples. This is the golden rule for food, whether you’re a customer or a retailer, taste before you buy. After that, packaging is our primary concern. Delis and farm shops sell premium products, so everything you sell us has to look good enough to be a gift. Be physically aware, too. Think about how much shelf space each unit takes up. Does it stack? How robust is it? Does it stand out? Any product that is too one-colour (white is worst), has too many sticky-outy bits or is simply too fragile, won’t go down well. I will lose too many to transport or moving around the shop or to children’s fingers. Once you’ve got that sorted, don’t forget that the packaging is your opportunity to

MODEL RETAILING

For the record, I do care if you are already listed in supermarkets explain yourself. Awesome design isn’t worth squat if the consumer doesn’t know what the brand is, what is inside the jar or can or tin, and what they can do with it. I really hate subtle branding or messaging. It just makes my job much harder. Your stuff may sell well off tasters, but I have 1,000 products and I can’t get round to sampling yours every month, let alone every week. Now you need to think about your pitch. For the record, I do care if you are already listed

SOLVING EVERYDAY SHOPKEEPING DILEMMAS. IN MINIATURE.

Sorry, mate. You’re not coming in here without a mask on! Don’t you know there’s a pandemic on?

Wow, that’s quite the welcome…

in supermarkets. My customers aren’t coming to me if they’ve already spotted it next to the baked beans in aisle 24. If you’re listed with Tesco, there needs to be a pretty good reason for me to carry you as well. Other independents might unequivocally drop you. And, don’t tell me “it is delicious on ice cream”. Boy, have I heard that one, or something similar, a thousand times. When you say that, what I actually hear is “it’s pretty useless on its own”. There is the odd exception but please, please present your products as valuable in themselves. The last aspect is the money. A Golden Rule for retailers is: sell it before you pay for it. Help me make that work – so keep your minimum order low even if it means putting the prices up. Little-and-often is how I like my deliveries. Promotional discounts always help, too. Note how little I’ve said about the actual taste. It’s very important but it’s also really too personal a thing to go into here. I just need you to make your products easy to sell. The more you do that, the more I’ll love you.

SPOT THE DIFFERENCE

Hello, sir. I’m afraid you must be wearing a face covering to enter. Unless, there’s a reason.

I understand, and I do have a reason…

FFD says: Yes, face coverings are absolutely vital in retail scenarios but these stressful times call for a calm head. If someone enters your shop without one, they might have an explanation. Some people are exempt because of conditions like asthma and plenty of people do make mistakes and have simply forgotten. As bizarre as things have become in the last few months, you’ve got to maintain a certain level of customer service. editorial@gff.co.uk With kind permission of Geobra Brandstätter Stiftung & Co. KG, Germany. PLAYMOBIL is a registered trademark of Geobra Brandstätter Stiftung & Co. KG, for which also the displayed PLAYMOBIL toy figures are protected.

Vol.21 Issue 9 | October-November 2020

SHOP TALK

THE DELI DOCTOR Paul Thomas

Q: The Grana Padano website says that it is unlikely that the cheese is likely to cause an allergic reaction in people allergic to egg. Does this mean we do not have to state that cheese contains an allergen?

A: Unlike Parmigiano Reggiano, the rules for the Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) for Grana Padano permit the use of silage to feed the cattle. Silage carries the risk that spoilage organisms such as Clostridium tyrobutyricum, which is responsible for late-blowing defect in some continental hard cheeses, can contaminate the milk. As Grana Padano is susceptible to this defect, the use of Lysozyme, an antimicrobial enzyme derived from egg white, is permitted during cheesemaking to control the growth of the causative organisms. On prepacked slices, Grana Padano usually carries an allergen declaration for “egg lysozyme”. The Grana Padano website states that it is “completely safe to eat” the cheese which contains lysozyme due to the very low level used and provides a link to research by Laconelli et al (2008) which indicates that the risk to individuals

Expert’s eye

FOODISM360 on Unsplash

SUSTAINABLE KITCHEN’S JULIE CLEIJNE TALKS YOU THROUGH THE VARIATIONS OF DAIRY ALTERNATIVE MYLKS

Cows’ milk consumption has definitely seen a reduction in recent years, with plant-based alternatives widely available in high street chains, coffee shops and supermarkets. And it doesn’t appear to be a temporary trend, with the UK plant-based ‘mylk’ market accounting for around 15% of the total European market (estimated at $320m). By 2025 the Vegan society estimates this market will more than double. Definitely, the boom in vegan diets has played a part in this and although allergies and intolerances are a driver too. Then, there’s the environmental and ethical concerns around animal welfare. So what are the different plant-based ‘mylks’, and which should you be stocking in order to cater to customers looking for nondairy varieties? October-November 2020 | Vol.21 Issue 9

On pre-packed slices, Grana Padano usually carries an allergen declaration for ‘egg lysozyme’ with egg allergy is low. The study was carried out in a small study comprising ten healthy volunteers and twenty patients with hen egg hypersensitivity. Consumption of lysozyme did result in a detectable immune response without clinical signs in 15% of those with hypersensitivity. As noted on the Grana Padano website, “allergic reactions due to the presence of lysozyme in Grana Padano PDO are extremely rare in subjects with an egg allergy, although not excluded a priori.” Considering the information provided and the fact that food labelling legislation does not define a safe level for egg allergens, their presence must be indicated appropriately to the consumer. www.granapadano.it/en-ww/lisozyme-granapadano-pdo.aspx.

Dairy and food safety specialist Paul Thomas runs the Guild’s e-helpline for retailers with technical or regulatory queries. Send your questions to myguild@gff.co.uk

Here’s a quick guide to the most common plant-based ‘mylks’, and how they can be used: • Soya – thick in texture, good for coffees and sauces. High protein and calcium content. But… soy is also an allergen, so be sure to have other non-dairy options available. • Rice – thin in consistency but good for baking, smoothies and sauces. • Oat – fairly neutral in taste, can be good for sweet and savoury sauces, and especially the barista varieties are a favourite for coffee products as it foams very well. • Coconut – quite sweet, so perfect for baking and desserts. Can also work well in coffee. • Almond – can foam well in coffees, although it has a distinct taste. It works well in smoothies and sweet sauces. • Cashew – thick and creamy – very good in coffees but a possible allergen as with other nut mylks. Great to use to make a thick cream. Good used in raw and cooked cakes, icings and thick sauces, also used a lot in vegan cheese making. • Hemp – high protein content. Doesn’t separate in hot drinks, though some find the taste quite strong. Great for breadmaking, baking • Hazelnut – thick and rich; quite strong tasting. Great for desserts. • Tigernut – similar taste to cashew mylk, and can be used in the same way.

NICK BAINES KEEPS YOU UP TO DATE WITH THE NEWEST DISHES, FLAVOURS AND INNOVATIONS IN FOOD & DRINK The Tinned Fish Market

Technical and regulatory advice from the Guild’s deli helpline

WHAT’S TRENDING

1 Tinned Seafood The canned seafood of Portugal and northern Spain is gaining a lot of attention right now. Ideal for rapid foodservice dishes without compromising on quality, items like boquerones, mussels in escabeche, and high-quality anchovies are finding their way onto wine bar menus. Meanwhile, in trendy East London restaurants like P.Franco and Crispin, a variety of sardines are being served still in the tin. Salford’s The Tinned Fish Market, which supplies both trade and direct to consumers, now offers a subscription service, mailing out everything, from squid in olive oil to mackerel fillets with chilli. 2 Donations Californian philanthropic food initiative Zero Foodprint has stepped in to address climate change. The organisation has built a collective of restaurants all over the US and Europe that raise a 1% optional surcharge on bills to support the practice of carbon farming, which focuses on transferring CO2 from the atmosphere into the soil. The argument goes that it’s easier to get diners to add 1% to their bill than convince them to shun meat or trade up to higher-welfare produce. One restaurant raised $45k alone, showing just how powerful this kind of initiative can be. With diners increasingly conscious about where they spend their money, this is one actionable solution without the friction. 3 Hard Seltzer In the pursuit for lighter hangovers, less sugar and fewer calories, alcoholic seltzer ticks an awful lot of boxes. Brands like SERVED and Bodega Bay offer flavours that include lime, raspberry and apple ginger & açai berry – all sitting at 4%ABV. However, established brands like Chase distillery and brewery BrewDog brewery have also joined the club. The latter’s Clean & Press brand comes in at a slightly punchier 5%ABV, with flavours like white peach & mango and smashed cactus & lime. For the most part, hard seltzers are gluten free, have no added sugar and can contain as little as 57 calories.

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Vol.21 Issue 9 | October-November 2020

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FOCUS ON

foodservice

INGREDIENTS

Number crunching Data, not stamps, is what you should be collecting if you want your loyalty scheme to be successful By Tom Dale

LOYALTY SCHEMES ARE A tried-and-tested mechanism for retaining customers, but they have come a long way from a simple get-your-10th-free-style stamp-collecting exercise, and now technology has brought things a step further and simplified the execution. The obvious way loyalty programmes build customer relationships is through benefits – rewards, discounts and freebies – but the true driver behind successful modern schemes is data, according to industry experts. Typically, when most people think of loyalty schemes, they tend to picture a card and the accumulation of points in exchange for a free product. But, says Nigel Bogle chief executive of The EPOS Bureau, while that traditional model still works for many, there is a greater opportunity for retailers if they look more closely at the numbers behind these schemes and the insights they provide. “From a business owner’s perspective, when a customer uses their loyalty card, it should be a trigger to their system to say, ‘Hey, I shopped with you today and here’s what I bought when I was in your café or restaurant’,” he says. This can then be used to spot patterns, and, in turn, for the business owner to tailor offers and entice greater spend. “For example, the system could automatically detect that it’s been a few weeks since the customer last visited and generate a voucher for the retailer to encourage a return visit.” Utilising a digital loyalty scheme also gives insight into who your customers are. Tsewang Wangkang, CEO and founder of app-based digital loyalty platform Embargo, says that data harvested from the app has revealed

that, for most cafés on the platform, 85%-90% of transactions come from just 100-200 customers. “At the core of your business is your customers, and at the core of the core are a small number of return customers and it’s really important to know who they are and that you have a communication channel with them,” he says. Having the data on customer behaviour and a way to connect with your clientele that digital loyalty programmes offer allows you to be proactive, rather than reactive, if customer numbers wane, according to Wangkang. “It’s about anticipating, through the data and analytics, when and why things change,” he says, “because usually when venues realise that customers have stopped coming and start reacting, it’s too late. Having the data gives you a chance to pro-actively manage your customer base and anticipate if things are going in a certain direction.” Oliver Stubbins, general manager of Worksop-based Welbeck Farm Shop & Harley Café, uses EPOS Bureau technology across both retail and foodservice and has used the system to drive traffic during a mid-afternoon letup in custom. “We spotted a lull from 3pm and offer a coffee & cake deal at that time which has the effect of getting

What’s the point of pushing out offers if you’re not sure who is listening

people to stay for an extra stint or freeing up tables over lunch when we are busier anyway.” Stubbins has also used The EPOS Bureau’s data to target lapsed customers who haven’t used their card in several months to entice them back with offers. He does admit that the business doesn’t “currently use the data to anywhere near its potential”. And making the most of this data is crucial. “There is no value in just collecting data. It’s about getting personalised data and then being able to communicate specifically with the customers you need to,” says Wangkang. “Getting the data into the system is just the first step,” says Bogle. “The retailer’s next challenge quickly becomes how to get actionable insights out.” Here, too, technology is your friend. “With the right tech, you can quickly and easily identify the people you want to ‘talk’ to, tell your EPOS system that they are the group that deserve a special set of benefits and communicate with this group,” he says. And, crucially, this is not the endpoint. Tracking customer uptake of the ‘carrot’ offered is the next key piece of data. “What’s the point of pushing out content and offers and incentives if you’re not sure who is listening,” Bogle adds. With all the number crunching, it’s easy to forget that at the base of all the data are real people. The purpose of this resource, according to Bogle, is ensuring that you are not just churning out a one-sizefits-all scheme. Data gives you the opportunity to focus specific offers at specific customers, but make sure that they feel special, and not like the numbers on a screen you’ve used to target them.

Leading food distributor Henley Bridge is now stocking smaller pack sizes of pastry experts Pidy’s core range of ready-to-fill pastry cases. The new pack sizes, which are available from this month, range from four to 12 and include puff pastry mini square neutral (12 pieces), puff pastry vol au vents (12 pieces), puff pastry square neutral (4 pieces), shortcrust pastry mini tartlets 4.5cm (12 pieces), flower-shaped canapes (12 pieces) and puff pastry quiche 7cm (9 pieces). hbingredients.co.uk Northern Irish sea salt producer Mussenden Sea Salt has launched its unique Lavender & Garlic Sea Salt in compostable bags for foodservice customers. The compostable packaging breaks down in 80 days in a home compost bin and quicker if using an industrial composting system. The salt is available in 150g, 500g, 1kg and 3 kg bags. mussendenseasalt.com

Leading clean-label ingredients specialist Ulrick & Short has launched a new range to their clean label portfolio. The new range, called fazenda, is a series of functional flours derived from different crops. Harnessing the natural functionality from crops such as tapioca, wheat, rye and spelt, fazenda provides wide-ranging, functional benefits – and is said to a natural feel to bakery items. cleanlabelingredients.com

Vol.21 Issue 9 | October-November 2020

FOCUS ON

foodservice

EQUIPMENT

FROM THE DELI KITCHEN SIMPLE RECIPES TO BOOST YOUR MARGINS

CHRISTMAS CHOCOLATE SLAB Anything goes on this base of chocolate heaven – from a more classy grown-up version to a rocky road variant for the kids. Use the basic chocolate recipe and top with whatever Christmas delights you find! Makes: 1 slab measuring approx 25cm x15cm

Ingredients: 400g chocolate – we used 300g dark and 100g white for swirls 100g nuts 2tbsp mixed peel 4-6 glacé cherries or marachino cocktail cherries 20g dried fruit 1tsp rose petals

Method: Melt the chocolate separately in bowls. Spread the dark chocolate over the base in the desired shape on baking paper, then dot the white chocolate all over. Using a skewer, swirl the white chocolate around to create a marbled effect. Top the chocolate with nuts, mixed peel, cherries, dried fruit, rose petals and whatever else you would like for flavour. Allow to cool, then wrap and seal. Recipe by Jules Mercer for Fine Food Digest

Michael Lane

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A condiment for every meal October-November 2020 | Vol.21 Issue 9

Rational believes one feature of its new iCombi Pro combi oven range, iProductionManager, is even more valuable due to the impact that COVID-19 is having on the foodservice industry. While the option of cooking different items simultaneously in a combi steamer isn’t new, iProductionManager takes the concept a step further. As well as listing which products can be cooked together, it allows chefs to select whether they want the food to be ready at the same time, to be cooked as quickly as possible, or if they want it cooked as energy efficiently as possible. Depending on the selection, iProductionManager automatically prepares the best schedule for the food items. rational-online.com Many independent retailers flipped their foodservice operations to serve as takeaways due to COVID restrictions. With that in mind, Welbilt UK has created a ‘cook, hold and deliver’ equipment solution to ensure takeaway food is delivered as hot as possible. The package consists of a three-way system comprising a Garland-powered-by-Inducs INSTINCT Hob, rechargeable plate and compatible delivery bag, allowing businesses to manage hot takeaway items. The delivery bag must be heated on the hob for one minute, at which point the bag will be charged sufficiently to keep food hot for up to 50 minutes. welbilt.uk

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Vol.21 Issue 9 | October-November 2020

PROMOTIONAL FEATURE

Fish4Ever

Skipjack Tuna – fished the way it was meant to be

In the middle of the Atlantic Ocean, boats fish with poles as they did centuries ago. Catching tuna one by one. Welcome to the Azores, a picturesque archipelago east of Portugal that is home to Fish4Ever’s Azores Quality Skipjack Tuna.

THE AZORES IS KNOWN not only for being one of the greenest and most sustainable fisheries, but also for having the best scientific program for tuna fishing in the world. All tuna is caught is by pole and line, eschewing industrial methods. And all of the fishing boats are local to the islands, flying local flags and landing in local government-regulated ports. Locator, the government company under the Azores Ministry of Fishery, controls all landings – ensuring quality analysis and traceability. Landings are inspected on arrival, handsorted and logged with instant histamine and other quality tests performed. The fish arrives whole (always whole, never in loins) at the factory on Sao Jorge island. The vast majority of tuna 18

fisheries work on loins, frozen twice and sent to a factory thousands miles away. Fish4Ever only works from the whole fish during each step of production. The factory we use has been granted an IFC score of more than 97%. A lot of the processing is done by hand by local employees. The factory is a critical employer on this small island of only 900 inhabitants and supports the local school bus service as well as providing vital jobs. The traceability of the tuna is paramount and each fish can be traced back to the boats and followed forward through the lot numbers in the factory. Fish4Ever’s processes in the Azores could not be further from the majority fo the gloabl tuna industry. Typically industrial fleets fish in distant seas, often

October-November 2020 | Vol.21 Issue 9

under different flags. Tuna is kept in vast holds out at sea and often it is taken to factories via transhipment boats, so the fishing boat can stay fishing. In many cases the tuna is frozen at sea, which is good, but also caught in huge nets and overstacked in the hold, which is bad. Net-fished tuna has fought hard in the net, leading to stress that changes the flavour of the meat. They will often be twisted and lacerated and then piled high on top of each other. Once landed the tuna is defrosted, butchered in a factory and then frozen and kept as loins. The loins are shipped to another processing facility thousands of miles away. It is these loins which are then defrosted and packed in a separate cannery. Freezing, defrosting and re-

freezing means the nutritional quality of the tuna is reduced. Worse, it is hard to verify the origin of the tuna and a paper trail can be cheated. We know for a fact that there is over-claiming of ‘fake pole and line tuna’. This is why we insist on working directly from the whole tuna even though it is more expensive. We can visually verify the quality of the fish that comes into the factory and corroborate the fishing method claimed in a way that you cannot do with a frozen loin. How you fish makes a difference. Smaller catches and smaller batches are landed quicker. Happier fishers do the job better, as do factory workers if they are treated with respect. The ingredients you add should be of the best quality, which is why at

Fish4Ever we only ever add natural and organic land ingredients. The organic system controls not only the inputs allowed on the land, which we believe do have negative health consequences, but also prohibits the use of a number of additives, preservatives and artificial or chemical processing aids. So, the organic seal is a guarantee of the purity of the ingredients used. In the case of our vegetable oils we only use high quality virgin and first cold-pressed oils: this is extremely rare in the canning industry where the cheapest oils are mostly preferred. Experts say that we should be eating three portions of fish per week, but with our busy lives it can be hard to plan ahead, and fresh fish spoils quickly. Canned fish is a fantastic alternative:

quick, easy, versatile and health. Tuna is a protein power food. It is both a lean protein â&#x20AC;&#x201C; because it is low in fat â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and a complete protein because it contains all the essential amino acids in sufficient quantity. When you digest protein, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s broken into amino acids. Your body needs 22 different types of amino acids to function properly, of which nine must be obtained directly from food (essential amino acids) and 13 can be synthesised by the body (non-essential amino acids). As well being an excellent source of protein, tuna also boasts a good amount of iron, copper and omega 3. Our commitment to quality, care, and refusal to pack with cheap oils, ensures that the nutritional goodness of the tuna, as well as its great natural taste, is safeguarded.

Fish4Ever was founded on the idea of bringing organic values to sustainability in fish. Our holistic, all-encompassing approach is both real and comprehensive, focusing on land, sea and people, supporting not only the best possible fishing practices, but also the communities and small boats that enact them. Never is that more apparent than in our Azores Quality Skipjack Tuna. All of our cans are free of BPA, and conform to the highest of quality standards, however for those of you who try to shop glass wherever possible, our Azores Quality tuna now can be found in glass jars for the first time. Currently available in spring water and olive oil varieties, our 150g jars are an affordable and environmentally conscious option.

Fish4Ever.co.uk support@organico.co.uk 01189 238760

Vol.21 Issue 9 | October-November 2020

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Truffle Trove™ luxuriously combines Italian Black Summer truffles with extra mature Cheddar from North Wales, taste-tested and graded by the Snowdonia Cheese experts. Encased in pure white wax, the cheese has a distinctive earthy aroma and a perfectly balanced flavour, with undertones of wild mushroom and hazelnut leading to notes of garlic.

The UK’s ‘Most Loved Speciality Cheese Brand’* *As voted in Fine Food Digest survey

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October-November 2020 | Vol.21 Issue 9

CHEESEWIRE

news & views from the cheese counter

Christmas cancellations leave many makers without a market By Patrick McGuigan

Cheesemakers and mongers are facing big drops in revenue during the festive period as Christmas markets across the country are cancelled because of COVID-19. Large festive events in Bath, Birmingham, London, Lincoln and Leeds have been called off, leaving a shortfall in many cheese companies’ accounts just before the quiet trading period after Christmas. “Bath Christmas Market has become a very important revenue stream, so we’re very concerned,” said Katherine Spencer, co-owner of Cheddar Gorge Cheese Company. “The income we make there helps

carry us through January, February and March.” Around 400,000 people visit the 18-day Bath Christmas Market each year, spending around £7m, but the event was cancelled in July because of coronavirus. “It attracts bus-loads of people from Brighton, Birmingham and London,” said Spencer. “So it was also good exposure, allowing us to promote our online business and people to taste the cheese.” A virtual market will run instead this year, while the cheesemaker plans to hold its own festive evening outside its shop in Cheddar. Evesham-based cheesemonger The Truckle

Companies like the Cheddar Gorge Cheese Company counts Bath’s Christmas market as a major revenue stream

Cheese Company, which makes 80% of its sales from markets and shows, is also concerned about Christmas trading. “Christmas is one of our busiest times of the year, and so cancellation of some of the Christmas markets will have a significant impact on a period which is usually very profitable,” said owner Adrian Nichols, who is adapting the business to make more of online sales. “We are not sure how confident people will be about heading out to buy face-to-face again, amid fears of a second wave. This has already been reflected in 2020 event attendance levels, and in customer willingness to sample food in close proximity to others, even outdoors. Inevitably, even if shows resume in 2021, there is no certainty that consumer confidence will return completely.” In Leeds, cheesemaker Mario Olianas said he could make as much as £2,000 in a day’s trading at Otley Victorian Christmas Fayre, which has also been cancelled this year. “That is a big hit to a business my size,” he said. “I’ll have to make it up through online sales and at farmers’ markets, which have thankfully kept going.”

The company behind London restaurants The Cheese Bar and Pick & Cheese is to open its first cheese shop, called Funk, on Columbia Road, Hackney. Founder Mathew Carver will also open a third cheese restaurant, the Cheese Barge, on a boat docked at Paddington Basin next month.

The Royal Bath & West Society was forced to cancel the British Cheese Awards and associated Dairy Show – which had been due take place on 7th October – because of the COVID-19 crisis. In other news, the Virtual Cheese Awards, launched this year, are set to return in 2021.

Paški Sir

This hard pasteurised sheep’s milk cheese, made by Gligora Dairy on the island of Pag in Croatia, is a regular winner at both the World Cheese Awards and in Great Taste. It is available aged up to 24 months, but typically eaten at 8-12 months. The rind is rubbed in olive oil and the interior is hard and crystalline with a fruity, salty flavour. Fig There are interesting salty and herby notes to Paški Sir (pronounced ‘pashki seer’), which reflect the island’s coastal climate and rocky landscape, where the sheep graze on wild plants, such as thyme and sage. Sweet and fragrant fig jam contrasts nicely with this, while picking up on its caramel sweetness. Even better is Fig & Lavender Preserve from Taste Croatia, which imports Paški Sir to the UK. The floral notes of the accompaniment echo the herbacous flavours in the cheese. White wine Croatia has a long history of wine making, stretching back to the time of the ancient Greeks. Its robust reds are becoming much better known in the UK, but Istrian white wines made with Malvasia grapes are also particularly good with Paški Sir. Full bodied and well-rounded, the wines have lots of fruity notes, ranging from apple and apricots to kiwi and almonds, which stand up well to the aged cheese.

NEWS IN BRIEF

Lincolnshire’s Cote Hill Cheese has opened a new retail destination at its farm. The Cheese Shed houses a cheese and raw milk vending machine, as well as selling other local produce and coffee.

THREE WAYS WITH...

Cryer & Stott Cheesemongers has resurrected a traditional Yorkshire Dales cheese after it looked like it may be lost forever. Made for over 100 years, Coverdale was produced by the Wensleydale Dairy until earlier this year, when the line was discontinued. The crumbly cheese has now been saved from extinction by Castleford-based Cryer & Stott, which has worked with Wensleydale-based dairy The Home Farmer to create a cloth-bound, raw milk version of the cheese. Aged for six weeks, it has a crumbly texture and subtle tang.

Seaweed crackers The mineral notes found in Paški are reminiscent of seaweed, which is why a slice on a seaweed cracker works so well. There’s a pleasing island affinity between the Pag cheese and Stornoway Seaweed Water Biscuits from Stag Bakeries, which are made with Hebridean seaweed and have a delicate briny flavour and nice crunch. Vol.21 Issue 9 | October-November 2020

CHEESEWIRE

news & views from the cheese counter

Consultant says makers could boost prices with improved marketing By Patrick McGuigan

Shoppers would be willing to pay significantly higher prices for British artisan cheese if producers improved their marketing, branding and storytelling. That’s the view of cheesemaker and campaigner Francis Gimblett, who is part of a new consultancy group, called The Cheese Set, launched to help artisan cheesemakers. Gimblett, who worked in wine and spirits for many years before starting his own cheesemaking business in Sussex, believes there is huge untapped potential in artisan cheese. “I’ve hosted tastings with wine costing £5,000 a bottle, but the olfactory experience is no better than tasting artisan cheeses,” he said. “Cheese could never compete with wine and whisky on price, but there’s definitely an opportunity for cheesemakers to better convey the uniqueness of their products, and I think the public would pay more for the very best cheeses.”

CHEESE IN PROFILE with Pont-l’Évêque PDO What’s the story? This soft, washed-rind cows’ cheese from Normandy, France is widely believed to be the cheese formerly known as Angelot (Angel) developed by Cistercian monks in the 12th Century. It was named Pontl’Eveque several centuries later after the town that 22

Michaela Myers, Barney’s Deli, Brighton

Francis Gimblet, co-founder of The Cheese Set, says makers could justify higher prices

Gimblett visited 100 British cheesemakers for his new book Gimblett’s Guide to the Best of British Cheese, due to be published soon. His visits and own experience of making cheese inspired him to set up The Cheese Set with three others: dairy technologist Paul Thomas; business expert Eric Wood; and design consultant Andrew Till. The group held a free webinar for cheesemakers and retailers last month, discussing welcomed its producers to sell the cheese in the market there. Its distinctive square shape was developed to differentiate it from other local cheeses such as Livarot. It has held PDO status since 1976, however, the specifications were tightened in 2010 – requiring that all milk and cheese production, as well as affinage must take place in the designated areas of Manche, Calvados, Orne and Western Eure. As of 2020, at least 50% of the milk used must be from Normande breed cows, which must be pasture-fed for a minimum

October-November 2020 | Vol.21 Issue 9

CALLING ALL CHEESEMONGERS

the issue of branding and PR with guests including Neal’s Yard’s Jason Hinds, Catherine Mead, owner of Lynher Dairies and John Farrand, MD of the Guild of Fine Food. “With COVID, artisan cheesemakers have had to speak more directly to the public through social media, but there is still a lot more that could be done to make people understand just how special these cheeses are,” said Gimblett. cheeseset.com

Opening a second shop is always a gamble (especially during lockdown), but Michaela Myers says the opportunities more than outweigh the risk. She opened a second branch of her Brighton cheese shop and deli at the end of August in Hove, and has learned a lot in a short space of time about juggling both. “We can move stock between the two shops, which helps cut wastage, and having a second site makes it easier for us to meet minimum orders,” she said. “I’ve also been lucky to be able to hold onto and find experienced staff, so it’s allowed me to concentrate on other areas, like building online and planning Christmas.” The only downsides are slight delays to things like setting up a new bank account and getting equipment delivered because of COVID. “Otherwise, it’s been a smooth process,” she said. “We used the same people who fitted out our first shop to work on the new one, and a lot of people who live in Hove know us from our Brighton shop. It helps when you’re a bit more established.”

bacteria encouraged by washing the cheese in brine solution and maturing for at least 3 weeks. The white moulds overgrow the bacteria, so the sticky and pungent orange colours can only be seen in flecks along its edges. of 6 months and hay-fed during the winter months. How is it made? The classic format of the cheese is 11cm square and about 3cm deep. It is made using heat-treated or raw milk and animal rennet, then placed into the square moulds for drainage before turning and salting. The rind is a mixture of white Penicillium candidum mould and pungent

Appearance & texture The dry rind is white with red-orange flecks and the moist, supple paste varies from ivory to straw yellow in colour. The cheese can exude strong aromas – ranging from farmyard to smoky – while the flavours are mild: milky, creamy and herbaceous.

Variations 180g boxed cheeses or 1.6kg for cutting on the counter Cheesemonger tip Create counter theatre with the larger cheese, cutting it to order into perfect triangles. Given the recent increase in mail orders, the small boxed versions with brightly coloured labels make the perfect package for posting. Chef’s recommendation Melt the cheese on top of pork steaks braised with tart Bramley apples and serve with a chilled dry Normandy-style cider.

Whether you have a professional or personal interest in cheese, the Academy of Cheese is a not-for-profit organisation, providing a comprehensive industry recognised certification. Level One courses are available across the UK. Visit academyofcheese.org to start your journey towards becoming a Master of Cheese.

Vol.21 Issue 9 | October-November 2020

NEW for 2020 our beautiful Aurora design tins are filled with delicious new shortbread recipesâ&#x20AC;Ś

Old Winchester back in stock! A very hard 18 month farmhouse cheese which has a distinct nuttiness in flavour and made with vegetarian rennet.

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October-November 2020 | Vol.21 Issue 9

www.deans.co.uk T: 01466 792086

CHEESEWIRE

news and views from the cheese counter

In terms of tactical planning, we have to see what happens this Christmas

Up for the challenge Paxton & Whitfield’s new MD James Rutter sees opportunities for Britain’s oldest cheesemonger By Patrick McGuigan

TAKING THE TOP JOB at Britain’s oldest cheesemonger in the middle of a pandemic – and with Brexit looming – sounds like a baptism of fire. But Paxton & Whitfield’s new MD James Rutter is having none of it. “I don’t view it like that at all,” he says cheerfully. “It’s an honour to have the opportunity to be the custodian of a 220-year-old business, and to play a part in its history. There are lots of opportunities out there, as well as challenges. That’s energising and exciting.” Yorkshireman Rutter is only 34, but has squeezed in a lot since finishing a politics degree at Kingston University, where he freely admits to spending more time reading cookery books than textbooks. After working as a chef, he joined Neal’s Yard Dairy in 2008 as a cheesemonger and ended up running the company’s export business. He then moved to truffle supplier Truffle Hunter for a few years, before being appointed head of operation at Paxton’s in 2018. Rutter takes over as MD from Ros Windsor, a hugely respected figure in the industry, who he says has left “an incredible legacy” after 17 years in the job. She will continue to work as a consultant up to Christmas, but it’s Rutter that is making the big decisions now. And there’s likely to be plenty of them in the coming months. Three of the retailer’s four shops closed during lockdown. Cale Street in Chelsea continued trading but its flagship store on London’s Jermyn Street and the premises in Bath only reopened in June and July, respectively. Retail sales have grown steadily since then as people started to go back to work. But the government’s new rules last month

– advising people to work from home and the 10pm curfew – could change everything again. Meanwhile, the Stratford-upon-Avon shop remains closed, with footfall in the town still seriously affected by the crisis. “We’re having to remain pragmatic and flexible and react to information as it comes out,” says Rutter. While bricks-and-mortar retailing has been difficult, it’s been a different story in the virtual world. Pre-COVID, the split between retail and wholesale was 60/40. Now it’s 70/30 thanks to a huge increase in online orders, which made up just 11% of sales in 2019 but now account for 40%, says Rutter. “COVID has pushed online sales forward three-to-five years. Over the last six months, we’ve attracted a whole new customer that maybe otherwise wouldn’t have bought cheese online. That represents a big opportunity if we can inspire them to come back and buy again.” Delighting customers over Christmas will be essential with Paxton & Whitfield developing innovative new ‘cheese experiences’ for online sales, such as Strictly Cheese Night – a pack containing four cheeses and scorecards for Zoom gatherings. The company is also looking to increase capacity and improve efficiency for cutting, wrapping and packing online orders at its Bourton-on-the-Water headquarters. Developing longer-term strategies are trickier, admits Rutter, with much depending on how COVID plays out, while the effect of Brexit on the availability and price of Continental cheeses is still largely unknown. “We have the right paperwork in place, but commercially we won’t know the impact until we know what any Brexit deal looks like,” he says. “In terms of tactical planning, we have to see what happens this Christmas. There are likely to be changes in how people shop and the restrictions placed on us, so we’ll have to respond and adapt.” In other words, there’s plenty more energising excitement still to come.

CROSS

SECTION

Stilton Jar 1

Paxton & Whitfield has been selling Stilton in jars for generations (the pots are considered collectors’ items by many) and they are a key seller at Christmas. The current range comes in two sizes – 250g and 500g. The smaller jars sport a black and gold colour scheme to resemble the iconic facade of the retailer’s flagship store on Jermyn Street in London.

2 While some Stilton jars are pumped with cheese, Paxtons’ are hand-filled by Nottinghamshire producer Cropwell Bishop. They crumble mature Stilton into the pots before sealing with clarified butter.

The cheese is matured for 12 weeks and is made with vegetarian rennet. The crumbling process results in a softer, creamier texture than traditional wedges of Stilton, while the flavour is rich and tangy with mushroom and peppery notes.

Vol.21 Issue 9 | October-November 2020

La Bandiera Extra-Virgin Olive Oil What makes it so delicious? Dipping into La Bandiera extra virgin, organic olive oil is one of lifeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s great pleasures. The golden colour of the oil is reminiscent of Tuscany and the summer light. The flavour is fruity, robust, well rounded and delicious with all dishes. For further information, please visit our website www.labandieraoliveoil.com or contact info@labandieraoliveoil.com

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October-November 2020 | Vol.21 Issue 9

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CATEGORY FOCUS

Sweet, savoury, and beyond Whether you’re looking to bolster your shop’s confectionery selection, offer customers a taste of the sea (page 35) or present some new ideas to home cooks (from page 31), this month’s round-up covers a lot of bases. There’s also a few ideas for topping up your festive stock (page 32) Compiled by Lynda Searby

October-November 2020 | Vol.21 Issue 9

chocolate & confectionery October saw Demarquette resume production of its chocolate boxes, including its recently revamped Britannia’s Kitchen Garden Chocolate Caramels Collection. This is an assortment of handpainted chocolate domes filled with fruit, vegetable and herb caramels. Flavours include Toffee Apple & Pear, Fennel & Honey and Damson – using all British ingredients. RRP £21.75. demarquette.co.uk

Beech’s might be a traditional, family-owned firm, but the launch of Fabulous Fondants is proof that it is bang up to date in its ethical thinking. Marketed under the Jenny Wren brand, the palm-oilfree, gluten-free, plantbased chocolate coated fondants are packaged in a compostable wrapper. There are two varieties – Tropical Coconut and Peach Melba. RRP £1.35 for 45g. jennywrenchocolate.co.uk

Ombar says that Hazelnut Truffle, the latest addition to its Centres range, is its most indulgent bar yet, despite being free from gluten, dairy and refined sugar. Truffle made from organic Sicilian hazelnuts is encased in a 60% chocolate shell. Ombar pays above the recommended Fairtrade price for its cacao, sourcing direct from farmers in Ecuador. RRP: £1.99 (35g) and £2.99 (70g). ombar.co.uk

Roly’s Fudge is rolling out new packaging options, including a 200g carton range and a redesigned 175g gift bag. The two new formats are available for Vanilla Clotted Cream, Butterscotch, Chocolate, Rum ‘n’ Raisin, Maple & Walnut, Honeycomb, Sea Salt, Salted Maple & Pecan and Christmas Pudding flavours. RRPs of £5.75 for the carton and £5.25 for the bag. rolysfudge.co.uk

80Noir Ultra is challenging perceptions and championing dark chocolate as a healthy and nutritional choice with its hot chocolate beads. Besides having a strong following among athletes, 80Noir Ultra Chocolate 79.3% beads have a Great Taste 2-star award, reinforcing both their taste and nutritional credentials. RRP is £10 for a 300g bag (makes 12-15 cups of hot chocolate). 80noirultra.com

Sarah’s ‘Hot Cinders’ Toffee, the latest recipe to come out of Grasmere Gingerbread’s Lake District kitchen, is a fiery ginger version of the old-fashioned honeycomb treat known as ‘cinder toffee’ that originated in the villages of north east England. Think melt-in-themouth golden brown pieces of sweet honeycomb with an afterglow of warming ginger. grasmeregingerbread. co.uk

Brindisa has stocked Amatlier’s iconic chocolate leaf tins for many years, and is now enlarging its selection to include chocolate leaves in 60g cartons in three variants: 70% Dark Chocolate, 70% Dark Chocolate with Salt and Creamy Milk Chocolate 32%. RRP £4.95. brindisa.com

Rising demand for comfort food in recent months has prompted De Rosier to launch two new 80g chocolate bars. The Milk Chocolate with Crunchy Peanut and Milk Chocolate with Honeycomb bars have a trade price of £2.95; RRP £5.50-5.95. derosierchocolates.com

Edinburgh’s COCO Chocolatier has collaborated with contemporary artist Andy Welland to design the artwork for its new Fruit & Nut Collection. Salted Caramel Fudge, Dark Chocolate Giant Raisins, Cocoa Dusted Almonds and Caramel Hazelnuts complete the line-up. Trade price £3.95; RRP £7.95. cocochocolatier.com

This year, SeaSugar in Northern Ireland has carried out its first packaging redesign since launching its handmade hard, pulled sweets five years ago. Owner Linda McGibbon says the rationale was to “create a fresher and more upmarket pack that would sit comfortably on a shelf with other high-end products”. “It also provided the opportunity to cull my range from twelve varieties to the most popular eight varieties,” she adds. SeaSugar’s mission is to reinvent hard sweets, using only natural extracts and essences for flavour and simple natural colourings. The sweets are made in the company’s workshop in Co Antrim, and are listed with stockists throughout Northern Ireland and two outlets in England. RRP is £3.50 for a 100g pack with minimum order of five per flavour and minimum order size of 25 bags. seasugar.co.uk

David Crichton came up with this luxury filled chocolate bar concept when he was a contestant on Masterchef in 2018. Challenged with designing a dish based on an idol, he chose George Michael, and created a bar inspired by the song Careless Whisper and Cadbury’s Wispa bar. Last year, he translated the concept into retail format, launching The Careless Collection of four chocolateenrobed bars: The Dark (salted caramel, olive oil & balsamic), The Ruby (muscovado caramel, rose & lychee), The White (blueberry, tonka bean & basil) and The Milk (toasted coconut & lime zest). At the time Crichton was working full-time as a longhaul pilot. The current state of aviation has meant he has been put on gardening leave, giving him time to focus on his confectionery venture and to develop new recipes, such as the beer caramel he is currently working on. The Careless Collection (4 x 40g bars) has an RRP of £15. thecarelesscollection.co.uk

A master chocolatier in Barcelona since 1840, Simon Coll has developed a new trio of flavoured chocolate bars in illustrated card sleeves, which Delicioso will be introducing into the UK market. The 80g Dark Chocolate & Sea Salt, Dark Chocolate & Caramelised Orange, and Cappuccino Milk Chocolate bars wholesale at £1.99 in display boxes of 10, with an RRP of around £4.45. delicioso.co.uk

Billed as a “bar of the future”, Solkiki’s new So Woke bar might look like chocolate but it contains no cacao beans, dairy or dairy equivalent – so isn’t legally classified as such. Solkiki has combined coffee, cacao butter and cane sugar to create a plant-milk-free, soy-free, dairy-free, nut-free bar that packs a powerful coffee fix. solkiki.co.uk

Best known for its ‘chocolate & a toy’ boxes for children, Play In Choc has launched a ‘chocolate without a toy’ range called JustChoc. 10g mini bars made from Peruvian dark 70% or Peruvian vegan m*lk chocolate are individually wrapped in compostable film, and presented in boxes of three, five or ten pieces, with respective RRPs of £1.95, £2.95 and £5.95. playinchoc.com

Swedish chocolate producer Standout Chocolate has revamped the packaging of its single-origin bars, reinforcing its organic and transparent sourcing credentials as well as its philosophy of using as few ingredients as possible. Haiti Cap-Haïtien, India Idukki and Madagascar Sambirano are three of the bars in the collection. RRP £6.95 for 50g. standoutchocolate.com

Organico Realfoods is importing the whole-nut, vegan, organic chocolate bar range from Italian chocolatier Vanini into the UK market. Flavours include Gianduja with Whole Hazelnuts, Dark with Salted Pistachios and Dark with Caramelised Hazelnuts. RRP £3.49 for 100g. organicorealfoods.com

Seed & Bean’s new dark chocolate truffles are available in two varieties – Flaked and Hazelnut – in a 150g recyclable tube with fully compostable inner wrapper. Both are made from dark chocolate, and the Flaked Truffles are also dairyfree. RRP £13.99. seedandbean.co.uk

Crafted from the finest singleestate beans

Filipino chocolate label Auro likens its Reserve Collection to wine – because the bars are crafted from single-estate beans from a single year of harvest only, each year, the chocolate’s flavour profile is different. Created using only cacao mass, cacao butter and organic muscovado sugar, the collection includes 70% Tupi, 70% Paquibato, 70% Saloy and 85% Mana dark chocolate. Trade price £4.95-£5.17 for a 60g bar. Auro is currently on the lookout for a UK distributor. aurochocolate.com

Cocoba’s new Best of British collection is a celebration of homegrown desserts, with each bar featuring a topping inspired by desserts such as Sticky Toffee Pudding, Eton Mess, Lemon Meringue and Apple Crumble. Trade price is £1.90; RRP £3.95. cocobachocolate.com

Vol.21 Issue 9 | October-November 2020

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October-November 2020 | Vol.21 Issue 9

chocolate & confectionery Given the increasing popularity of toasting marshmallows, the launch of La Maison Guimauve’s latest box is timely. Hitting the market in November, the Luxury Toasting Box contains marshmallows, a toasting tin, and eight wooden skewers (RRP £20). There is also a smaller Couple’s Toasting Box (RRP £15). lamaisonguimauve.com

storecupboard ingredients

Vinegar Shed has taken on a new range of Italian tomato-based sauces and pestos from La Baita & Galleano, which cultivates Taggiasche olives and organic vegetables and herbs on its farm in the Ligurian hills. The Amatriciana, Arrabbiata, Puttanesca, Alla Norma, Portofino and Trombette Zucchini sauces are available in two sizes: 180g (RRP £7.50-£10) and 480g (RRP £11.50-15). vinegarshed.com

PrimaBio Sugo Pronte Verdure (veggie bolognese) and Morelli Calamari are two of the latest Italian exports to join Il Fattore’s portfolio. The Bolognese (trade price £2.35 for 314ml) combines organic tomatoes, carrots, onions and celery, while the Calamari (trade price £2.65 for 250g) are gluten-free, squid ring shaped pasta that are made from rice and corn. ilfattore.co.uk

Following the launch of its Seaweed Seasoning last year, Seaspoon has created another seasoning using seaweed harvested on the South Devon coast. Combining a salty flavour with subtle heat, Seaweed Chilli Crush is said to “harness the natural symbiosis of seaweed and chilli”. RRP £3.99 for 25g shaker jar, trade price £2.39. Refill pouches also available with an RRP of £3.59. seaspoon.com

The introduction of Acetomodena’s vinegars marks the return of Modenese balsamic vinegar to The Fine Cheese Co’s portfolio. These DOP and IGP balsamic vinegars are made with Lambrusco and Trebbiano grapes from Acetomodena’s own vineyard. The range includes traditional vinegars, such as the Goccia Oro IGP Gold Drop (RRP 13.70 for 250ml) as well as Condimenti dressings and white balsamics. finecheese.co.uk

Olive Branch’s latest introduction is the result of cold-pressing Greek lemons together with early harvest Koroneiki olives to yield a finishing oil with a zesty aroma and fruity, peppery taste profile. Lemon Extra Virgin Olive Oil is said to be ideal for dressing salads or drizzling over fish. Trade price is £3.50 per unit. myolivebranch.co.uk

Sofia Javed has turned her personal quest for organic spices into a business venture. The Singing Spice Company sources spices from certified organic farmers around the world and packages them in 50g retail pouches (RRP from £5.25). A portion of each sale goes towards providing meals to children in orphanages. An 18g pouch and Indian spice tins will be launched soon. thesingingspicecompany. com

Pasta maker Garofolo says that the launch of a range of pasta sauces and pestos is a “natural brand extension”. The six-strong line-up takes in three sauces – Bolognese, Napoletana and Parmigiana – and three types of pesto – Rosso, Genovese and Calabrese. pasta-garofalo.com

RH Amar has added Porcini Mushroom Risotto to its Cooks & Co meal kit range. The subtle flavours of Italian carnaroli rice and porcini mushrooms are brought to life through the simple addition of stock, olive oil, butter and parmesan cheese. rhamar.com

All-natural, artisan energy truffles Noshy’s on-trend plant-based energy truffles – the brainchild of London-based entrepreneur Stefanie Siraghi – combine indulgence, cleaneating credentials and good looks, with each truffle enrobed in edible petals. As well as being free from dairy, gluten, wheat, soy, added sugars, additives and colourings, they are low in calories, sugar and fat, yet high in protein, fibre, vitamins and minerals. lovenoshy.com

In developing Mallow Puffs, Belgian confectioner Barú says it has “kicked out the gelatine and created a perfectly puffy vegan mallow bar”. Most marshmallow bars contain gelatine, whereas this dark chocolate coated bar is free from gelatine and palm oil. RRP £1.59 for a 30g bar. baru.be

Bristol-based Radek’s Chocolate has launched a four-strong range of 85g bars that are vegan, organic, gluten-free, palm-oil-free and free from refined sugar. The Dark Hazelnut Gianduja, Silky Almond, CBD Infused and Cashew Mocha bars have an RRP of £4.85 except the CBD Infused bar, which has an RRP of £6.25. radekschocolate.co.uk

For every sale of its new JustBe Kind wellbeing chocolate bar, JustBe Botanicals makes a donation to the SAMH (Scottish Association for Mental Health). The 70% dark chocolate bar is infused with bergamot and mandarin aromatherapy oils and topped with pink Himalayan salt. RRP £2.75 (50g). justbebotanicals.co.uk

Danilo Manco’s Sicilian Novello is available in limited quantities to UK retailers looking for an early-harvest olive oil. Novello extra virgin olive oil is the very first press of the year, taking place at the end of September/ early October and resulting in a creamy, fresh, green product. theoliveoilco.com

Vol.21 Issue 9 | October-November 2020

storecupboard ingredients

last-minute Christmas ideas Historically slated for supposed artery-clogging levels of saturated fat, ghee is now being heralded by some experts as a healthy fat. Netherend Farm in the Wye Valley is producing a grass-fed version of this Indian cooking staple from its own traditionally churned organic butter. RRP £9.99 (250g). netherendfarmbutter. co.uk

Joe & Seph’s has created three advent calendars, including a vegan popcorn calendar it claims is a world first. Then there is the Classic Gourmet Popcorn calendar, which opens up like a giant storybook and features 19 flavours; and for the cocktail aficionado, there’s the Tipsy Gourmet Popcorn calendar, with flavours such as Espresso Martini and Caramel Macchiato & Whisky. All three have an RRP of £25. joeandsephs.co.uk

Doisy & Dam has created three new Christmas treats for consumers looking for ethical, Vegan Societycertified, palm-oil-free alternatives to mainstream brands. Jingle Ballers are crunchy malty balls enrobed in dark chocolate orange; The Christmas Mix presents 10 packs of the company’s best-selling products in a Christmas Tree shaped box; and Truffles encase a smooth centre in dark chocolate. doisyanddam.com

Retailers looking for a gluten-free pasta brand should check out Alba, now available to the UK trade via The Artisan Olive Oil Company. Turmeric & whole rice gnocchetti (RRP £3.85) and quinoa & rice penne (RRP £4.15) are just two of the organic, glutenfree varieties available in 250g bags. Both Bayley & Sage and Partridges are stocking the range. artisanoliveoilcompany. co.uk

Paxton & Whitfield is tipping Brillat-Savarin Affiné Aux Truffe as this year’s choice Christmas cheese. This rich French triple cream cheese, which is not yet widely available in the UK, has an increased fat content thanks to cream being added to the milk during making. Paxton & Whitfield’s Brillat Savarin cheesemaker is based in the town of Nuits-Saint-Georges. paxtonandwhitfield.co.uk

Manfood says its Orange & Ginger Ham Glaze is a must-have aid for achieving the perfect sticky coating on a Christmas ham. The glaze, which is available via Diverse Fine Foods, Gorgeous Food Company and Cress Co Marketplace in cases of 16 (RRP £3.95 per jar), also doubles up as a basting sauce for roast meats. welovemanfood.com

The lockdown month of April marked the launch of a new look for the Rebelicious “time-saving” cook-in sauce label. Certified by Sugarwise, the sauces are free of added salt and contain only naturally occurring sugars. So far, there are four “Made in Cornwall” SKUs in the range, including Korma – creamy with desiccated coconut, almonds and blend of cumin, coriander and turmeric –and a slow-cooked Roasted Pepper & Tomato pasta sauce. Rebelicious is available via Fine Food Angel, Artisan Food Club, The Food Market and Borough Box at a trade price of £2.35 a jar (RRP £3.60). rebelicioussauces.co.uk

Following its launch into foodservice a few months ago, Craic Foods’ Black Garlic & Porcini Sea Salt is now being offered to the retail trade in a 70g jar. The Northern Ireland producer blends its own slowaged black garlic with wild porcini mushroom and lemon before slow-drying and grinding, resulting in a finishing salt that has “endless uses”, according to managing director, Paul Clarke. “It can be used on pork, poultry, seafood, salads, pasta, vegetables or anywhere where you would traditionally season with salt. It is particularly good sprinkled on a steak just at the end of cooking; while the steak rests the salt melts, forming a seasoned meaty glaze,” he says. The seasoning won a coveted 3-star award in Great Taste 2020, with the judges remarking on its sparkling rock appearance and rich earthy aroma. RRP is £4.25; trade price £17.70 for a case of 6 x 70g jars. craicfoods.com 32

October-November 2020 | Vol.21 Issue 9

The Smokey Carter has made its Greek Gyros BBQ rub available year-round, following its popularity as a limitededition line this summer. The Greek-inspired shawarma seasoning is said to be ideal for rotisserie pork, chicken, kebabs and gyros. RRP £3.95. thesmokeycarter.com

Scottish producer Ochil Fudge Pantry is bringing together three limited-edition festive flavours and its flagship traditional fudge in a new Christmas gift pack. Each box contains a bar of Christmas Pudding, Spiced Rum & Orange, Amaretto and Just Plain fudge. Trade £4.95, RRP £12. ochilfudgepantry.co.uk

Ross & Ross Gifts has treated its Christmas Roast Dinner Box to a new look. The box contains everything a home chef needs to elevate their Christmas dinner, including Pigs In Blankets Dust, Roast Turkey Rub, Sprout Dust and Roast Potato Oil. RRP £21; trade price £12.50. rossandrossgifts.co.uk

Vol.21 Issue 9 | October-November 2020

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October-November 2020 | Vol.21 Issue 9

last-minute Christmas ideas As well as bringing together three of Womersley’s best-selling fruit vinegars, the Oxfordshire producer’s newly created gift boxes contain recipe cards devised by three food bloggers and writers. RRP is £17.50-18.95 and wholesale price is £113.70 for a case of 10 boxes, giving stockists a 40% margin. womersleyfoods.com

seafood

Shropshire-based Flower & White says its aim, in developing Glitter Balls, was to push the boundaries and challenge the traditional perception of meringue. These crunchy chocolate covered meringue balls come in two flavour combinations: Classic Pops (milk chocolate, caramel gold & white chocolate) and Party Pops (raspberry & prosecco, Irish cream & orange liqueur). RRP £4.99 for 150g. flowerandwhite.co.uk

Ireland’s Shines Seafood is on the lookout for a UK distributor for its range, which takes in Wild Irish Albacore tuna, Yellowfin tuna and Wild Irish Ventresca in 185g jars and 111g tins. Described as “mild in flavour without the aggressive fishiness of cheaper tinned tuna”, the products are listed in 900 stores in Ireland but just three outlets in the UK. shinesseafood.ie

Staal Smokehouse is pitching its new beetrootcured smoked salmon as a vibrant alternative to traditional cold-smoked varieties. Salmon is dry-cured with beetroot, smoked over a blend of oak and applewood and then hand-sliced. It comes in 100g packs (RRP £5.75; trade price £3.74); 200g packs (RRP £10.50; trade price £6.83) and as 900g unsliced and sliced sides. staalsmokehouse.co.uk

Plymouth-based Meridian Sea will be offering specialist Christmas products from Amand in Normandy to the UK trade. Dome of Trout with Isigny Cream, scallops in their shells St Antoine-style and Avocado & Crab Terrine are just three of the chefprepared chilled dishes available in the collection, which can be supplied as mixed orders (minimum 10kg). meridian-sea.com

Ireland’s Achill Oysters is partnering with Marr Fish to distribute its oysters around London and throughout the UK. Cultivated in the Atlantic waters around Achill Island using the sustainable rack-and-bag technique, these oysters take three-and-a-half years to reach market size. They are supplied to the retail chilled in wooden boxes of 12 oysters (RRP £12). achilloysters.com

Spanish food specialist Brindisa has tracked down a Galician producer of preserved sardines, including small sardinillas and smoked sardines. The Catrineta Conserveira range is prepared and packed by hand, with RRPs starting from £2.45 for a tin of sardines in escabeche or tomato sauce. brindisa.com

The BigFish Traditionally Cured line-up is sporting a new pack design that reinforces its Great Taste credentials. Both products in the range – oak smoked salmon and oak smoked trout – were awarded 2-stars this year. RRP £4.49-4.95 for 100g. bigfishbrand.co.uk

The first 100% plastic-free smoked salmon

A music box tin containing chocolate mini bars and a bauble filled with truffles are among the highlights in Butlers’ Christmas collection, which has every gifting opportunity covered. While The Festive Menu assortment caters more for adults, the stocking-shaped chocolate truffle tin, the Coco Cubs tin and the Milk Chocolate Reindeer Food 100g bar are all aimed at children. butlerschocolates.com

Popcorn Shed’s new Christmas gift tins are filled to the brim with three flavours of popcorn – chocolate, Christmas pudding and caramel – and tied with a bow. RRP is £25 for a 400g tin. popcornshed.com

This foodie gift set marries two of Truffle Hunter’s most popular seasoning products – Truffle Dust and Flaked Black Truffle Sea Salt – in one box. The shaker-style jar format makes it easy to enhance multiple dishes, including vegetables, pasta, soup, meat and fish, says Truffle Hunter. RRP £19.95; trade price £13.95. trufflehunter.co.uk

This year, Chococo is offering a vegan advent selection box alongside its classic version. With an RRP of £24.50, the box contains 25 freshly handmade chocolates, including truffles made with 80% cocoa solids chocolate from Uganda, Classic Marzipan, Cashew ‘Milc’ Chocolate Gems and Spiced Rum. chococo.co.uk

A recyclable outer sleeve combined with a compostable board and bag make Sea Smoked the UK’s first plasticfree packaged smoked salmon, claims the (Best Aquaculture Practices) BAP-certified producer. The traditional Scottish oak-smoked salmon launched with Booths in October, following on the heels of the company’s Sea Chips sustainable salmon skin crisps. RRP £4.85; trade price £2.81 for a 100g pack. sea-chips.com

Salmon, haddock & asparagus fishcakes and gluten-free coated whitebait are Paramount’s latest seafood lines for foodservice. The fishcakes are filled with a creamy tarragon sauce and coated in gluten-free breadcrumbs, and the whitebait are headed, gutted and rolled in a gluten-free coating. paramount21.co.uk

Vol.21 Issue 9 | October-November 2020

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October-November 2020 | Vol.21 Issue 9

CUT&DRIED

making more of British & Continental charcuterie

My courier tells me that I’m now their third-biggest customer

Wide-ranging success From being the first Brit to win an award in the USA’s Charcuterie Masters to a COVID-induced shift in markets, it’s been a unique year for Cornwall’s Duchy Charcuterie By Tom Dale

DUCHY CHARCUTERIE HAS slowly and quietly been building its brand and picking up a raft of awards, including four awards in this year’s Great Taste and topping the coveted Country Ham, Prosciutto & Jamon category in the USA’s Charcuterie Masters. “I’m the first UK producer to win anything outside the UK and to beat 50 of the US’s top producers was absolutely amazing. I don’t think it’ll ever be topped,” says owner and founder Marc Dennis. One may wonder what heights Dennis – the “one-man-band” behind the meats – intends to scale with his small Cornish company, but, he says, he doesn’t want to get much bigger than he is now. “I don’t want to go down the route of mass producing,” says the former cured meat hobbyist turned professional. “There’s a lot of companies out there that will make 500 kilos of their best-selling product and it’ll be in every deli and farm shop countrywide. “That’s not for me. I want to play about with flavours and work with passionate people who want bespoke products.” Inspired by holidays on the Continent,

Dennis’ journey into charcuterie began when he left London and a long career in the fresh meat industry for Cornwall in search of a slower pace of life. After a stint working with a Cornish game producer, Dennis was asked to create some salamis for a local pork farm, Primrose Herd, who had acquired a high-end curing cabinet. “They knew I’d made some bits, so they got me in and said, ‘do you want to have a go?’. “We made some chorizo and some coppa for their existing customers and they all said it was amazing – so Duchy Charcuterie was born from there basically.” Three years ago, Primrose Herd and Dennis parted ways, so the former Londoner converted the double garage at the back of his house and went solo. Still producing his award-winning 13-strong range – including everything from coppa and spianata to Chinese-inspired lap cheong and his unique ‘nduja black pudding – from his converted garage, he has had to bolt a 10ft by 10ft packing room on to the back due to a shift in demand brought about by COVID. “Farm shops and delis weren’t a huge target for me until lockdown,” says Dennis. But, since restrictions hit in March and restaurants were forced to close, he has had to up his D2C and retail offer. From about 5% pre-coronavirus, delis and farm shops now account for roughly 30% of his trade, while selling direct to consumers through his website accounts for 20%. During the height of summer, the demand

for his pre-sliced products was such that, on top of working 14-hour days, he had to enlist his wife and daughter into the packaging operation. “My courier tells me that I’m now their third-biggest customer and I haven’t had a day off since mid-March. It’s been tough, but I can’t complain,” says Dennis. While the COVID-induced surge in business has limited the charcutier’s opportunities for NPD, he has been experimenting with new lines, including a coffee-orange salami, as well as working on a new range being produced in collaboration with Wales’ Patchwork Foods. Duchy will be releasing a six-strong collection of bacon jams and sauces including a ‘‘nduja bacon jam and its take on a Chinese XO sauce which makes use of the wasted ends of its charcuterie products. “Traditionally the Chinese would use Jinhua ham – their version of air-dried ham – so instead of that, I’ve used some minced ends of salami, prosciutto and speck – anything that’s unsliceable,” Dennis says. After some final tweaks, he hopes the range will be on shelves in time for Christmas, to top off what has been a “crazy” year for Dennis, from stateside accolades to COVID. “It’s been ridiculous,” he says. “Even now I think to myself where I’ve come from and where it’s gone to, and it’s amazing. “It just shows that if you’re passionate about what you do, you can make it work.” duchycharcuterie.co.uk Vol.21 Issue 9 | October-November 2020

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Avalon, the mystical land from Arthurian legend, only to be discovered by the chosen few is also referred to as the Isle of Apples. This inspired us to use apples in our Viper London Dry Gin. Recognising that the Viper is entwined with the story of King Arthur and Avalon, Viper London Dry Gin was born! Handcrafted in small batches in a copper pot still using English wheat spirit and ten botanicals, notes of crab apple, citrus and juniper are balanced to create an exceptionally smooth, fresh and memorable gin. Perfect as a cocktail base but is every bit as good in a G&T! Other products include Viper mulled gin with seasonal spices and Viper barrel aged, which is oak aged in a Somerset cider brandy barrel!

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October-November 2020 | Vol.21 Issue 9

FOCUS ON

new branding

Evolution rather than revolution The pandemic hasn’t stopped Peter’s Yard from driving things forward – with new branding, a new snacking range and a tweak to the exclusive offer for indies By Michael Lane

WHILE JUST SATISFYING demand this year has made 2020 busy for most producers, Peter’s Yard has been extremely industrious behind the scenes too. The crispbread brand has begun rolling out new-look packaging across its range. It’s also having another go at cracking the snacking market with a range of bagged sourdough bites. And all the while it has been revising its strategy for supporting the independent trade – a channel that it considers vital. Before any customers get too worried, joint MD Wendy Wilson Bett stresses to FFD that the new designs are “an evolution rather than a revolution”. The key elements of the previous look (chiefly the logo and the colour scheme) are now more central on the various packs and the window has been retained too. What Peter’s Yard’s research did reveal was that the previous illustration of crispbread that wrapped around boxes was “confusing” and people couldn’t tell what it was. That has made way for modern illustrations that are meant to add to the shelf standout but also communicate the brand’s values better. Wilson Bett says that the wooden spoon framing the ingredients list and the stamp that highlights the 16-hour fermentation for each small batch are designed to push the message of “time, care and craftsmanship”. “In terms of how important it is for new customers, the craftsmanship and being made at a proper bakery with processes and patience came through as one of the most important claims that our foodie shoppers love,” she says, adding that despite 10 years in the game, only 16% of savoury biscuit buyers in the UK have

purchased Peter’s Yard. The current popularity of sourdough – quite literally nurtured during the UK’s COVID lockdown – is also a marketing angle that Peter’s Yard feels will appeal to consumers. Not content with strengthening the proposition of its existing crackers, crispbreads and flatbreads, Peter’s Yard has developed a threestrong range of Sourdough Bites: Suffolk Cyder Vinegar & Sea Salt, Anglesey Sea Salt & Cracked Pepper and West Country Sour Cream & Chive. The trio of flavours will be available in 90g and 26g formats. Wilson Bett says: “We made a conscious

We’ve made a conscious decision to play in the bagged snacks market

The new bagged Sourdough Bites range comes in three flavours (26g and 90g)

decision that this is going to play in the bagged snacks market.” “We’ve always known people have used our product for snacking but we haven’t really nailed the format where people don’t want to have it with dips, they want it as the equivalent of a crisp.” And these thin, golden brown bites will be pitched at the healthier end of that spectrum. “You have the texture of a crisp but without the feeling of guilt afterwards – because they’re a source of fibre, they’re baked not fried, contain 50% less fat than a typical crisp and each serving is less than 100 calories.” Peter’s Yard business development manager Adam Tynan adds that the same quality standards applied to the producer’s other lines should stand them in good stead. “That idea of hand-baking and using sourdough are unusual and distinctive propositions in bagged snacks,” he says. Although the bagged snack market spans a range of channels – foodservice, multiples and speciality – the independent trade should feel reassured that Peter’s Yard is still very much thinking of them when it comes to the more traditional lines in its stable. And it is even changing its strategy, adding a new “hero” line to join other independent-exclusive products. The 145g ‘CD pack’ features the smaller format traditional crispbread with the signature hole and, with an RRP of £3.25, should give delis and farm shops another option. “What we’ve found has worked well has always been exclusivity. Packs that we can promise you’ll never see in your local supermarket. “It’s about how we give speciality retailers more options to be exclusive and distinguish themselves from the multiples.” petersyard.com Vol.21 Issue 9 | October-November 2020

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October-November 2020 | Vol.21 Issue 9

SHELF TALK Scottish snack producer making use of ‘wonky’ cauliflower in new crisps By Tom Dale

Scottish brand Nudie Snacks is making use of wonky veg that would have otherwise been discarded or used as animal feed in its latest product, cauliflower crisps. Made from 40% cauliflower, the snacks come in two flavours – cheese & caramelised onion and katsu curry – and add to the Ayrshire brand’s range of plant-based healthier snacks. With no artificial flavourings or colourings, the Cauliflower Crisps are low in sugar, high in fibre and 40% lower in saturated fat than traditional potato crisps. “We wanted to develop something that

would be a healthier replacement for the potato chip,” said Tracey Hogarth, founder of Nudie Snacks. The crisps have been a long time in the making and has been through multiple stages of NPD before Nudie Snacks finally hit on the right formula. “Working with fresh produce when making crisps is difficult because there’s so much moisture content,” said Hogarth. “Getting it right has taken us about a year.” “We aimed to make something different and we wanted to find a way to use all the wonky cauliflowers that shops think they can’t or shouldn’t be selling and making them into a snack we’re proud of.” Hogarth was ready to launch the new line in the first week of March but put the brakes on the project after the COVID pandemic hit. Now, the brand has started distributing to independents around the country. “Independents are very important to us and make up a large portion of our business. Their customers represent our target market,” she said. A case of 12x22g packs of Cauliflower Crisps costs £9.99 delivered. nudiesnacks.co.uk

WHAT’S NEW Cookie dough brand Doughlicious has released readyto-eat Lite Bites into the snacking market. The on-the-go range comes in seven flavours: Coco Delight, Chocolate Peanut Crunch, Orange Chocolate, Chocolate Chip, Apple Crumble, Carrot Cake and Lemon Raspberry. Free of added refined sugars, additives or preservatives and certified vegan and organic, the range has an RRP of £1.99 for a 56g eight-bite pack. doughlicious.co.uk Game specialist Wild and Game has introduced a range of glutenfree sausages and burgers. The six new lines are wild boar & apricot and venison & cranberry sausages and burgers, and wild boar, chilli & garlic and venison & black pepper sausages. 400g of sausages has an RRP of £5.79 and two burgers, £3.59. wildandgame.co.uk The Soho Juice Company has released its Great Taste award-winning SOHO range in new 250ml single-serve cans. Available in Cucumber, Mint, Lemon & Lime; Blood Orange, Raspberry & Ginger; Apple, Honey & Lemon the cans have an RRP of £1.25 £1.75 and a case of 12x250ml costs £7.50+VAT. sohojuice. co.uk

Tea brand is first to join UN climate-neutral scheme

Blackthorn Salt is reviving a centuries-old technique using the world’s only productive thorn tower – an enormous wall of tightly packed blackthorn branches – to produce sea salt. On the West Coast of Scotland, the tower evaporates seawater in a sustainable and natural way and salt is then drawn off in small batches using a pan. Launching in the middle of the COVID lockdown, the uniquely produced salt has had a raft of endorsements from professional chefs. blackthornsalt.co.uk

London-based Birchall Tea has become the world’s first tea company to join the UN’s Climate Neutral Now Initiative, which invites organisations to work towards global climate neutrality by addressing their carbon footprints. The British tea brand has also become the first to achieve the Carbon Neutral International Standard, obtained by measuring and offsetting its greenhouse gas emissions and supporting reforestation projects. “Becoming a signatory to the pledge is a reaffirmation of Birchall’s ongoing commitment to a sustainable future,” said Daniel Graham, managing director of Imporient, Birchall’s parent company. “We recognise that climate change is a threat to the livelihoods and wellbeing of everyone on the planet and that we must all take action now. That’s why we have worked hard to do our bit, achieve net-zero emissions and win One Carbon World Carbon Neutral Gold Standard Status.” Birchall Tea has previously taken steps toward becoming a more sustainable business by reducing excess and single-use plastic from its supply chain and, in 2019, it opened the

Birchall Tea’s new solar-powered tea production facility in Amesbury, Wiltshire

Birchall Tea Factory – the UK’s first solarpowered tea production facility – in Amesbury, Wiltshire. Additionally, a selection of Birchall Tea’s range – including its nine-time Great Taste award-winning Great Rift Breakfast Tea – is available in plant-based, biodegradable bags. birchalltea.co.uk

Vol.21 Issue 9 | October-November 2020

SHELF TALK My magic ingredient

WHAT’S NEW Award-winning craft distillery Brighton Gin has released a limited-edition Pride 2020 Rainbow Fund bottle. The gin was released with an initial run of 250 bottles, individually signed and numbered by artist Alej ez who designed the bottle, making each one a unique artwork. £5 from each bottle will be donated to the Rainbow Fund. RRP £37.50 brightongin.com Made in its Grimsby smokehouse, Big Fish has launched responsibly farmed Hot Smoked Salmon and Hot Smoked Trout fillets. Sold in packs of two 100g fillets with an RRP of £6.09 (trade £3.65 in cases of 12 packs). bigfishbrand.co.uk Bridging the gap between flaky sea salt and Himalayan rock salt is Himalite’s Pink Himalayan Salt Flakes, sold in 100g rose gold tins. Traditional methods of natural evaporation create the flakes commonly associated with sea salt while retaining the minerals that Himalayan rock salt is known for. himalite.com

Biggar Blue, Errington Cheese JAMES GRANT Owner, No2 Pound Street During lockdown and after hearing news from Jenny Linford and Patrick McGuigan about how our Scottish cheesemakers were suffering, I felt compelled to drive up and offer my support. Errington Cheese is a long-established and much-favoured producer. The farm is based in Lanarkshire, Scotland under the watchful eye of Tinto the county’s magnificent mountain. There are several makes at Errington and all deserve applause. The one that I want to share, though, is Biggar Blue, a divine semi-soft blue goat’s cheese. The herd of goats are a relatively new addition to the farm’s livestock. The milk they produce is delicious and the grazing on the hilltops of wildflowers and grasses shows through on the cheese. This creamy up-front cheese is long on the palate with grassy and herbaceous notes, there is a sweetness with a superb balance of salt and a rich, zingy blue finish.

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Fledgling distillery launches its first batch of organic single malt By Tom Dale

As new as it gets, Nc’nean – an independent distillery on the west coast of Scotland – has released its first batch of organic single malt whisky since it began distilling in 2017. ‘Batch 01’ is its first core expression singlemalt whisky, made using 100% organic Scottish barley supplied by 10 organic farms. The brand hopes this move will promote sustainable farming in the whisky industry. “Our distillery is so different from the norm in single malt whisky,” said Matt Hastings, brand ambassador at Nc’nean. As a small independent producer, said Hastings, the distillery has a story to tell, and he says independents are invaluable in getting its message to consumers. “We’re trying to change the way distilleries work and that story is best told by independent retailers, people who share our passion for both great liquid and helping our environment,” he said. Hastings also highlighted the brand’s sustainability credentials. The distillery is powered by 100% renewable energy, 99.9% of its distillery waste is reused or recycled and 42

October-November 2020 | Vol.21 Issue 9

each bottle is made from recycled glass – a first for Scotch whisky which reduces the product’s carbon footprint by 40%. Batch 01 is non-chill filtered and bottled at 46%ABV and uses a blend of ex-bourbon and ex-red wine casks. The whisky has an RRP of £49.95 and trade price of £31.75 plus VAT or £33 plus VAT with a gift tube. ncnean.com

Kung Fu Mama has recently added a new addition to its range of traditional Taiwanese sun-dried noodles. Biang Biang Noodles with Mapo Sauce are a flat, wider noodle made with authentic spices and with no preservatives or MSG. Kung Fu Mama claims that its products are a natural and healthier version of the traditional Asian noodle with an authentic Asian taste. £48.00 per case of 12x352g packs of noodles (RRP: £5). leeciousuk.com

Olu Olu Foods is one of the first African-Tropical food brands distributed in the UK and Europe, renowned for introducing a fusion of exotic flavours with a traditional twist. We take pride on producing some of the best exotic chips, using Plantains, Coconuts, Sweet Potato and Cassava. Offering a sheer freshness and authentic flavour that has made them arguably one of the most sought after, with a moreish taste and hearty crunch. Great for every day, on-the-go snacking, and with dips, sauces and toppings; our chips can be added to your soups, salads and sandwiches for a tasty meal. The Olu Olu brand has insured quality for at least two generations of satisfied customers whilst adapting with the times, always keeping the nostalgia of our African heritage. We have since developed products and flavours that cater to an international market and have won awards at Great Taste.

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October-November 2020 | Vol.21 Issue 9

SHELF TALK MEET THE PRODUCER

WHAT’S NEW Having recently reported that its 300-year-old organic orchards have been granted organic certification for another year, Herefordshire-based Willy’s ACV is launching two new products. Fire Cider ACV and Honey, Turmeric & Black Pepper ACV are intended as tonics to support immunity, combining its apple cider vinegar with other immune-boosting spices. Available in a range of sizes, from 50ml trial bottles to 25-litre jerrycans. willysacv.co.uk

Dan Featherstone is the founder of MADE FOR DRINK – a small family business making premium bar snacks from its home in Maidenhead, Berkshire and supplying such famous names as Heston Blumenthal’s The Fat Duck Group and Fortnum & Mason What were you doing before you launched Made For Drink? I started my career working for Walkers as a graduate selling crisps off the van and seven years later ended up in marketing, launching new products. I then moved into the wine industry, working for a brilliant Chilean business called Concha y Toro. It was a great couple of years in which I felt I made a real difference, and I was also able to start Made For Drink (MFD). It was hard work, but I look back on those days with happy memories.

launched a category-first home-compostable pouch for our Salami Chips – a process that took over 13 months. I’m positive we’ll be ready to move the entire range by the end of 2020. Understanding our CO2 emissions has been another eye-opener. We decided to look at our entire supply chain, understanding how much each pack contributes, identify quick wins and how to best offset the areas that may take longer. The results are staggering. A tiny business like ours emits around 400g of CO2 for every bag sold – approximately 100 tonnes a year. It blows my mind. We have immediately moved all our production here in the UK to 95% green energy sources and our distribution to all customers in the UK to a CO2 net neutral model.

Why did you decide to launch MFD? We went through a couple of difficult years as a family, and I just felt that I wanted all the things that I could control in my life to make me and my family as happy as we could be. One of the big things in my control was my career, and, ultimately, climbing the ladder at a big corporate wasn’t going to make me truly happy, so I started my business. What is the biggest lesson you have learned? Set yourself a clear vision, take action and make it happen.

Chocolate and salted caramel tarts are the latest addition to Saintly Foods’ frozen vegan dessert range. Made with no artificial additives, preservatives, palm oil, dairy or animal products, the range of tarts also includes British Apple, Blackberry & Apple Crumble, Dark Chocolate and Sweet Almond & Raspberry. RRP £4.99 per pack of two. Cases of five cost £16.25 each. saintlyfoods.com

Why is it important for you to control your production? There is a direct relationship between the quality of the products you are selling and what people are willing to spend their hard-earned money on. I’ve always felt that you have to be in full control of the quality of your products and so I wouldn’t have done anything differently.

When you are the founder of a business, the brand represents you

What is the best thing about being a small business? Working with a close group of people to achieve something great.

What’s the story behind your partnership with English Heritage? I approached English Heritage (EH) with an idea to partner on a project that I thought would be a lot of fun. The aim was to understand the history of the British pub snack. EH loved the idea and the fact that we could bring some of these foods to life sealed the deal. It’s going to be a brilliant project launching later this year. This conversation then led to a bigger one about EH as a brand, their snacking range, and our product design and manufacturing capability. I’m happy to say that last month we agreed to a five-year global partnership which will see us launch a range of premium English Heritage snacks. What’s inspiring your plans to introduce plastic-free packaging and your ‘Do The Right Thing’ commitment? Quite simply, my son Henry. When you are the founder of a business, the brand represents you. So, as we started to scale in volume a few things were tugging at my conscience that my son had bought to my attention and that I thought we could change. Namely, the impact MFD has on our environment: plastic and CO2. In July, we

MOMO Kombucha is launching a new flavour, Raspberry & Hibiscus, in partnership with breast cancer charity Future Dreams. The fermented tea drink combines the flavour of hibiscus with cold-pressed raspberries and the brand vows to donate 5p from every bottle sold to the charity which raises funds for awareness, support and research into breast cancer. momo-kombucha.com

…and the worst? Self-doubt. It’s the killer of all ambition, ideas and business and is what makes running a small business so hard at times; at points it’s devastating. But somehow you pull it back together and move forward. All entrepreneurs experience this and I manage those moments by surrounding myself with people I trust.

Somerset-based spelt farm Sharpham Park has launched a new heritage flour that blends three ancient grains: spelt, emmer and einkorn. The grains are grown and stone-milled at the brand’s farm in Somerset to create a flour that is high in fibre with a deep flavour, created by combining the mildly sweet spelt and emmer with earthy einkorn. The new range is 100% organic and is the first in the UK to combine the three grains. RRP £3.95. sharphampark.com

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Vol.21 Issue 9 | October-November 2020

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SHELF TALK New sustainable snacks made with cricket flour hopping onto shelves By Tom Dale

Launching in October, the Small Giants range of savoury crackers is made from an unusual source of sustainable protein – crickets. The founders hope that the products, the first containing insects to win a Great Taste Award, are a way for consumers to get into eating insects without what they term “the yuck factor” of eating whole bugs. Small Giants was founded by former business analyst Edoardo Imparto and former project manager Francesco Majno who discovered their love of insects while travelling in Thailand. They now want to “open people’s eyes and mouths to the benefits of insectbased snacking”. Insects form part of the regular diet of roughly two billion people globally and the founders believe the time is now to add Brits to the list. “42% of British consumers are now willing to try eating insects, so we’ve created a planetpositive insect-enriched snack that tastes

great and offers a genuine alternative to those wanting to cut their consumption of animalbased foods and find an alternative source of protein,” said Majno. Targeted at those wanting to make more eco-conscious food choices, crickets offer a viable, sustainable source of protein as they require a fraction of the water, land, feed and energy required to produce the equivalent from other sources. The crickets used in Small Giants are sustainably farmed in Thailand. Made from cricket flour and other natural ingredients, including extra virgin olive oil and wheat flour, the snacks also offer a healthier alternative to similar products. The range – comprising three flavours, Tomato & Oregano, Turmeric & Smoked Paprika and Rosemary & Thyme – contains 22% protein and vitamin B12 from the cricket flour and is dairy free with no added sugar. Majno said: “While people are starting to understand the reasons to include edible insects in their diet, they may be put off by the yuckfactor, but once people try our revolutionary snacks, they love the taste and the taboo is broken.” smallgiants. com

UK’s first coffee orange gin is launched Lava Spirits has unveiled its debut gin range including the UK’s first coffee orange gin. The two lines – Coffee Gin and Coffee Orange Gin – utilise South American-sourced Arabica coffee beans with notes of marzipan, chocolate and cherry to add flavour to the 37.5%ABV spirits. The drinks were inspired by founder Laura Bridge’s Italian background and the desserts she loves, combining coffee and sweet citrus flavours of orange with London dry gin. Started in Bridge’s kitchen, the gins were entered into the IWSC 2020 Awards in which the Coffee Gin won a bronze award. “The gins are most definitely unique,” said director, Bridge, “and I love the fact that they embody so many things I love and feel passionate about – coffee, gin, and memories of living in Italy and its culture. “I’ve met some very talented artisans along the way, including the roasters and distillers, all of whom have enriched my knowledge, enabling me to produce this unique product.” Both the Coffee Gin and Coffee Orange Gin

have an RRP of £45 for 70cl or £25 for 35cl. A 75cl bottle is sold wholesale for £27.70 (inc VAT) in a case of six. 5cl gifting bottles are also available.

WHAT’S NEW SACO Superfoods has re-launched its ginger flakes in ecofriendly packaging with illustrations representing the Ivorian villages from which the ginger is ethically sourced. Made with fresh African ginger – prized for its smaller, more concentrated roots – and raw cane sugar, the flakes can be infused with hot water, to give a warming drink to enjoy hot or cold. The flakes can also be used as a condiment or in baking. RRP is £4 for a 60g pouch with a trade price of £25 for a box of 10 pouches. sacosuperfoods.com Tickles Pickles latest product release is a carrot and dill soleniya – a traditional Russian pickle. Its mellow and fragrant with dill and carrot, and crunchy and, the brand says it is good with fish, white cheese, and added to a salad. RRP £3.89. ticklespickles.co.uk Elite Imports is set to expand its range of cheeses with the addition of a new flavoured Brie, Champignon Mushroom Brie. Produced by cheesemakers Kaserei Champignon, the first batch is set to be available in the UK from mid-October. The creamy, soft-ripened cheese has a mild mushroom flavour from white mushrooms added to Bavarian cows’ milk to provide a unique cheese containing no artificial flavours, additives or colours. elite-imports-limited.co.uk Sarah Gray’s Raspberry Jam is made with raspberries grown in the Angus countryside and produced in small batches by husbandand-wife team Sarah and Sandy Gray on their farm. The jam is available from Sarah Gray’s direct and The Cress Co. Cost price is £2.17 per jar – sold in cases of six – with an RRP of £3.20. sarahgrays.co.uk

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Vol.21 Issue 9 | October-November 2020

DELI OF THE MONTH James and Nicola Grant established cheese & wine specialist No2 Pound Street back in 2010 and have remained true to their commitment to stock only British artisan cheese ever since. Now, in light of the threat to the industry posed by coronavirus, the owners have a plan to give a lift to the nation's cheesemakers. Interview by Tom Dale

Backing British I ARRIVED IN WENDOVER, near Aylesbury in Buckinghamshire, a little early for my visit to No2 Pound Street, so sat outside with a coffee in the sun awaiting co-owner James Grant’s return from running deliveries. Sat – socially-distanced, of course – on the same table was a regular customer. I was hoping for a cheese and wine enthusiast who frequented No2 for Grant’s latest finds and finest tipples but found no such customer. Yes, she bought the odd cheese box and wine for special occasions but, she said, her daily spend was just on “the best coffee in town”. It really was a good brew. And this was something I would learn was at the heart of the business: serving only the finest of everything.

VITAL STATISTICS

Location: 2 Pound St, Wendover, Aylesbury, HP22 6EJ Turnover: £850k Average spend: £15 (online: £25) Number of cheeses: 60 Gross margin – wine: 35-40% Gross margin – cheese: 30-50% 48

October-November 2020 | Vol.21 Issue 9

From the global selection of biodynamic and organic wines and cheeses – which Grant travels the country in his car to uncover – to the sandwiches, crafted with the “best produce and the best bread you can get”, and coffee made by their trained barista, everything No2 does is about quality. Also high on the agenda at this British racing green-draped deli is supporting the nation’s artisan cheesemakers – and it’s not just lip service. Grant is building a cheeseageing and training facility in the midst of the pandemic to support the industry and give his business a lift. This is what you would expect from someone with food in their DNA, though. Grant has worked with some of the business’s

biggest names and at plenty of London's highend restaurants. In fact, he was in and around the foodservice business from the age of 10 – his parents owned a restaurant when he was a boy – and went on to manage such illustrious locations as Wiltons and Mark’s Club, among others. The common thread throughout his restaurant days, says Grant was “excellent ingredients prepared simply”. It is clear that Grant has a philosophy when it comes to food – throughout our conversation, words like provenance, sustainable, biodynamic and terroir keep cropping up – and No2, it seems, is an expression of this. “What we do is about quality over quantity

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and the producers we look for have to hit that mark for us,” says Grant. With both wines and cheeses, he seeks out the artisans. “All the cheeses that we get have to have that quality, ideally farmhouse so it’s all their own provenance, their own livestock, their own animals, their own cheesemaking facility, and, as much as possible, is sustainable.” And these aren’t his only specifications; with cheese and charcuterie at least, No2 only buys British. Since the shop, which Grant runs with his business partner and wife Nicola, opened in 2010 it hasn’t stocked a single Continental cheese in its counter, he tells me with pride, although he does admit he was tempted by a Parmigiano-Reggiano at last year’s World Cheese Awards in Bergamo. “I thought to myself, why go across the water when we’ve got an abundance of exceptional cheese products here. Why can’t we promote those and make people aware of the great stuff we have in the UK?” And No2 has done just that. Ten years on, the business turns over £850k and employs around 10 people full time – all of whom exude the same enthusiasm for the products it sells as Grant. “Everybody here is passionate about what they’re doing,” he tells me. “At interview, we instil in them how much we love what we do and, while they work with us, they get more enriched and more passionate about it. "You feed one another, don’t you? If I come in excited by a new cheese and get the team

together to ask what they think, it spreads.” And it shows. From the eager shop manager who swiftly came to the aid of a customer (who admitted she hadn’t a clue what she was looking for) searching for a leaving gift for a colleague, to the knowledgeable assistant offering their expertise during a whopping £85 phone-in cheese order, the team evidently care about the lines they are selling. And this care is what keeps the clientele coming back. “They’re a loyal bunch,” says Grant. No2’s customer base isn’t purely locals, though. Many come across the brand at one of its travelling market stalls which do the rounds across the home counties and then visit the bricks-and-mortar store “because they want to see what we’re doing here in the physical shop”. One draw is the platters, or tasting experiences, that the deli offers. “When I opened the shop, nobody in the UK was doing what we were doing – come in, taste some wine, taste some cheese, taste some meats, and then buy,” says Grant. “My inspiration was to be able to allow people to to taste and enjoy vastly superior produce, because it’s made properly by passionate people, and then convert them. That was the idea behind the shop.” Sadly, the capacity for these has been greatly reduced due to having to slash the number of covers in line with social distancing

Althea Prosecco Chloe Harrow & Hope Brut Reserve Rebellion Brewery Blonde Yvette's Chocolate Dark Chocolate with Ginger Biggar Blue – Errington Cheese

CONTINUED ON PAGE 51

Vol.21 Issue 9 | October-November 2020

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DELI OF THE MONTH measures. Grant has reacted, though, by installing all-weather gazebos on the market square opposite, as well as hatching a plan that is causing chatter in the world of artisan cheese. An enthusiastic Grant shows me around a two-storey former storehouse at the rear of the deli which is set to be converted into what some have called a “cheese emporium”. “The downstairs will be transformed into a glass-fronted, walk-in cheese ageing room,” he says, buzzing with excitement. “We’re going to buy in young cheese from producers and age them ourselves. I’m going to take advice and learn from the country’s experts on how to mature cheeses. “We’ve got the UK’s cheese refrigeration guru coming in to tell us exactly what we need in terms of temperature and humidity. We’ve got to make sure we get it right.” Meanwhile, the upstairs will be transformed from a cluttered storage area into a bright, new cheese training and events space, complete with a micro kitchen. The idea behind the grand plan, for which No2 has secured grant funding and is crowdfunding online, is to shore up the deli’s future against the economic effects of COVID-19 while also giving a boost to artisan producers by allowing the retailer to take on

more cheese to sell, and also mature itself. Grant tells me he thinks that, despite the obvious financial impact that the recent crisis has had, coronavirus has brought a new awareness to the public of speciality food retailers and the produce they sell. “Maybe the physical shop is at risk because of COVID, but the awareness of deli produce and the awareness of quality is very much out there,” he says. “The general public got a taste for it – they got a taste for good cheese and a taste for good products.” People’s desire for the experience of good food, says Grant, has been amplified – average online spend nearly doubled at No2 during lockdown, from £20-£25 previously, to £35£40 – and it’s providing this experience for his customers that the co-owner loves. “Food is an experience,” he says. “It needs to be an experience. It needs to be enjoyed.” And No2 specialises in selling this experience. “I’m terrible – I’m a great salesman,” Grant tells me with a wry smile. “You put into people’s mind’s what that experience could bring for them enjoying that. I don’t feel bad about upselling because it’s just good for me to know that they’ve had something that they’ve never really experienced before.” With this in mind and an important

Christmas for the food retail world fast approaching, the deli is running a book-aslot system in which customers can book a half-hour time slot online, inputting areas of particular interest, and will have a dedicated salesperson to walk them through the store, give them 100% attention and help spark some festive inspiration – an idea that Grant is certain will pull in some extra winter revenue. Behind all this attention to detail and passion, there’s a very real desire to change the way we shop and the way we view food – from production to plate. “For many years I’ve wanted to get the high street back,” says Grant. “A proper butcher where the meat is sourced locally, a greengrocer and so on. People want these things.” He tells me emphatically that the UK’s backbone is its SMEs and that the large industrial producers that dominate the food landscape only employ a tiny fraction of the artisans per pound of product. “If we can go back to producing food and beverage in those scales we will be able to employ more people, the provenance will be there, the carbon footprint will be reduced, sustainability will be better – it’s ticking boxes all the way around and the sooner we realise that the better.” 2poundstreet.com

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October-November 2020 | Vol.21 Issue 9

GUILD TALK

View from HQ

By John Farrand managing director

HERE AT GUILD HQ it’s still Great Taste results time. Yes, results day was Monday 21st September, but the PR machine, digital logo and printed label supply continues with gusto as successful makers crow harder than ever about their awards. The collective noise is more important this year for the obvious reasons. We’ve had no trade or consumer shows to generate much-needed revenue and unearth

news from the guild of fine food something new. And that’s what I’ve really missed this year. Discovery. Yes, there are a smattering of virtual meet-the-buyer events doing a good job but we’re missing scale. The scale of producers under one roof and buyers from across the planet that drives trade, especially in this all-important last quarter. The lack of real-life initiatives includes our Great Taste Deli at Olympia where we ordinarily create retail theatre. You feel enriched talking to successful producers and their knowledge and pride is often an education. You’ll have to spend some time to do your own talent spotting this year in the virtual world at greattasteawards.co.uk We continue to lobby government on your behalf and we’re about to reinforce the importance of the next 10 weeks or so for our trade. A collective of food groups under the banner of Food from England (but the message applies far wider) will be spreading the sentiment to the consumer via press and political activity. It reinforces the ‘local is for

The Word on Westminster By Edward Woodall ACS

SEPTEMBER TO DECEMBER in the political calendar is usually jam-packed with activity. MPs return to parliament, rumours appear on policy announcements for party conference season and everyone is gearing up for the Budget. But as with all things 2020, it has been vastly different. MPs were bystanders to fast-track secondary legislation, the Budget was cancelled and party conference was relegated to the internet. The two main speeches to tune into at the Conservative party conference are the PM’s and the Chancellor’s. Boris attempted to reach back to the 2019 manifesto that secured him his 80-seat majority. ‘Build Back Better’ was the conference slogan, which he

tried to define through a vision of a greener Britain with zerocarbon travel, blue passports and home-ownership. But he said very little about the Government’s approach to COVID, Brexit or plans for economic recovery. It’s not surprising that Boris took that approach, it’s probably one of the few public speaking opportunities that isn’t entirely ‘doom and gloom’ for a while. The Chancellor, too, was light on detail. He listed all the government support measures that have been introduced and his unwavering commitment to British business and the jobs they support. But that was it. Total speaking time was 11 minutes. What this indicates is the Government needs to wait for more data about the second wave before they can detail their plans for economic recovery. Conference season is often defined by the smaller discussions

life’ message. I will leave you with an excerpt from an open letter the organisation is sending out in the next few weeks and ask you to share that sentiment to your customers, friends and family.

By supporting your deli or farm shop, you support your local pound

Retailers, tell us what you want Here at the Guild, we’ve been supporting independent retailers for over 25 years. The sector has seen huge changes over that time, but our aim to promote, advise and connect businesses within our industry has stayed the same. Our retail members are at the heart of our organisation and we’re looking forward to speaking to many of you as we embark on our annual Best Brands survey this month and to hear what products have been your success stories in this, at times, exceptional year. Alongside that, we’ll be asking you what we can do to help further: what do you need from us as an organisation? Best practice advice, protection via industry-recognised codes of practice, industry news, mystery shoppers? These are all part of our membership offering and we’ll be working hard to add even more in 2021. Perhaps you’re looking for increased customer awareness, ideas on how to promote your online presence, merchandising or marketing tips, or simply recommended suppliers? However we can help, we’re looking forward to hearing from you. Which products have served you well this year? Tell us at www.gff.co.uk/bestbrands-2020 and read about the full picture across the industry in Best Brands 2020, which will be published in December.

“By supporting your local deli, farm shop, butcher, cheese shop and community & village store, you support your regional producers and your local pound. You’ll reduce the globalisation of food, you’ll discover seasonality, and you’ll realise new flavours, quality, and the personality of the maker in what you eat. We urge you to reflect on this in the run-up to Christmas, a critical trading period for all involved in food and drink.” at fringe events that are only seen by the party faithful. This year, we worked with the think-tank Onward on a fringe event into forgotten neighbourhoods and local parades that support them. The retail minister Paul Scully and other prominent Conservative MPs at the virtual event acknowledged the work of local shops and food retailers. There was a clear need for more support for small businesses through policy to enable them to invest, adapt and continue to deliver what communities rely on. For now, Government remains in their COVID holding pattern, watching closely for the changes in the infection rate and if their restrictions are working. There is a long winter ahead before we start to see new proposals and ideas for how we ‘Build Back Better’ – locally and nationally. Edward Woodall is head of policy & public affairs at small shops group ACS edward.woodall@acs.org.uk

The Guild of Fine Food represents fine food shops and specialist suppliers. Want to join them? GENERAL ENQUIRIES Guild of Fine Food Guild House, 23b Kingsmead Business Park, Shaftesbury Road, Gillingham, Dorset SP8 5FB UK Tel: +44 (0) 1747 825200 Fax: +44 (0) 1747 824065 info@gff.co.uk gff.co.uk

THE GUILD TEAM: Managing director: John Farrand Marketing director: Tortie Farrand Sales director: Sally Coley Operations director: Christabel Cairns

Sales manager: Ruth Debnam Sales executives: Becky Haskett Sam Coleman Operations manager: Karen Price Operations assistants: Claire Powell, Meredith White,

Events manager: Stephanie HareWinton Events assistant: Sophie Brentnall Financial controller: Stephen Guppy Accounts manager: Denise Ballance Accounts assistant: Julie Coates

gff.co.uk Chairman: Bob Farrand Director: Linda Farrand

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