CHEESEWIRE
news and views from the cheese counter
Further Brexit import rules likely to cause Continental price rise By Patrick McGuigan
British cheesemongers are braced for the price of Continental cheese to rise, deilvery delays and shortages when new Brexit import rules eventually come into place in 2022. As FFD went to press, the Government deferred these measures for a second time. EU cheeses were due to be subject to new import requirements and documents, including health certificates, from 1st October but these will now not be required until January 2022. Physical checks at specified Border Control Points were also set to begin on 1st January but this has now been moved to July 2022.
British cheeses sent to the EU have been subject to similar requirements since January, resulting in a 34% drop in exports in the first half of this year, compared to 2019. Now British cheesemongers are predicting the new controls will disrupt imports of cheese from Europe in the same way. “The future of EU cheese, especially from small artisan producers, is going to be very difficult and the days of showcasing rare finds is in the balance,” said Patricia Michelson, owner of La Fromagerie. “The sheer weight of paperwork and bureaucracy will scare all the small scale producers from working with us and even if we handle all the paperwork it will be very
La Fromagerie’s Patricia Michelson said bureaucracy will add cost and dissuade artisans from exporting
difficult with the pricing.” Michelson said that prices are likely to rise, thanks to increased costs for vet inspections that cheesemakers on the Continent won’t pay for. She added “There is no way out of this unless the exchange rates are so good we can keep them from increasing, although transport charges will also increase and paperwork handling charges, too.” At Brindisa, cheese buyer José Bueno Marin said there could be delays of between one and two weeks to cheese consignments from Spain when the new measures come into force. “We are also expecting some price rises,” he said. “Some certifications require an annual fee that in some cases will be translated in a price increase.” Tom Chatfield, CEO of European Fine Cheese, which imports cheese from Switzerland, Germany and Belgium, said the cost of moving goods had doubled in the past year due to Brexit. “The new measures are likely to mean we will have to increase minimum orders or pass on extra costs to customers. These rules hurt smaller cheesemakers the most because they don’t have the capacity to deal with the bureaucracy.”
NEWS IN BRIEF A new cheesemaker on the Isle of Wight, Brixton & Badger, has launched its cheddar curds in delis and restaurants on the island. The company is owned by Emily Macdonald, a native of the US state of Wisconsin where cheese curds are hugely popular. Cheddar Gorge Cheese Company is now offering VIP experiences at its Somerset dairy, which will see visitors take part in the production process, tours and tastings. Devon-based Sharpham Wine & Cheese is celebrating its 40th anniversary in September with a three-course meal, plus cheese and wine tasting, at the Sharpham Estate, where Maurice Ash first set up the business in 1981.
A new book written by cheesemonger Svetlana Kukharchuk reveals the secrets of how to understand and appreciate fine cheese. The Cheese Connoisseur’s Handbook (Rethink Press, £12.99) explains how to buy, store, taste and serve cheese, as well as detailing how cheese is made, its history and nutritional value. “I wanted to share everything I know about cheese and how it fits into a healthy lifestyle,” said Kukharchuk, who owns The Cheese Lady shop in Haddington, Scotland. thecheeselady.co.uk
THREE WAYS WITH...
Ogleshield Very different from its famous cheddar, Montgomery’s washed rind, raclettestyle cheese, which is made with rich Jersey milk at Manor Farm in Somerset, is a favourite of chefs thanks to its funky flavour and elastic melting properties. Pastrami Steve Parker’s extremely useful book British Cheese on Toast features more than 100 recipes involving melted cheese and bread. His suggestion for Ogleshield mixes Somerset and New York in a deli-style combination of pastrami, gherkins and mustard on spelt bread with plenty of Ogleshield melted on top. The salty, savoury beef emphasises the meaty notes from the cheese’s pinkish rind. Kimchi The brothy rind of Ogleshield is balanced by a mellow, milky core, which works as a foil for spicy, piquant flavours. A few spoonfuls of kimchi added to an Ogleshield toastie is the secret to a happy lunch, while vaunted steak restaurant Hawksmoor has topped its burgers with the melted cheese and kimchi, and has even served shortrib and Ogleshield nuggets with kimchi ketchup. The crunch from the Korean condiment contrasts nicely with the pliable cheese. Beer Washed rind cheeses and Belgian beers are firm friends, and this is particularly true of Gouden Carolus with Ogleshield. The 8.5% ale from Anker brewery has a ruby brown hue and is full of dark fruit and caramel flavours, which accentuate the fruitiness that often comes from the rind of the cheese. A rich, comforting combo for autumn. Vol.22 Issue 8 | September-October 2021
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