Understanding Grana Padano PDO by Guild of Fine Food

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GRANA PADANO PDO

TASTING, AGEING, PAIRING, SELLING A GUIDE FOR CHEESE RETAILERS

HOW TO TASTE

THE FIVE BASIC TASTES

GRANA PADANO

TA L

SOAPY META LL I C SUL PHU R CH EM ICA MI L NE RA VI L NE GA SM R O KE

CURRY

POWD

MUS TAR D

RSE RA D

ISH

ME AT Y FI SH Y

TOBACCO

O AT Y

PY EE SH LIN NO LA HY OT BR FAT TED AS R RO THE LEA YARD FARM

NI M

MIXED SPICE

MANURE

Taste Chew the cheese slowly while breathing through your nose to fully release and appreciate the flavours. Cheeses under 16 months will give sweet milk and stone fruit notes with barely any crystals, but the flavour will become more layered and complex as you move through different maturities. Cheeses aged for 20 months or more pack a punch – intensely savoury, flavoursome and tangy, with low levels of sweetness – but everything should be in harmony and not overpowering. The aromas detected on the nose will also be tasted on the palate, while the cheese will have a crunchy texture thanks to widespread crystal development.

CINNAMON

S PICY

M U PO SH R T GR AT OO O A M HA SS Y SIL AG E HE RBY WO ODY PINE SEEDY

SWEAT

BERRY Smell Maturity also has DRIED FRUIT a big influence FLORAL on the aromas found in Grana HO N E Y Padano. Younger Y NUTT Y cheeses will RY E NER K BA TIO exhibit clean lactic C E NF notes, such as fresh CO FEE milk and cream, OF A C plus fruity scents. CO CO N At 16-20 months, IO N lactic notes remain, but O A EK SIC become more buttery LE S A and caramelised, and the BR cheese will be more savoury. Expect notes of hay and hazelnuts, plus fresh tropical fruits. The intensity increases at 20 months, with notes of roasted nuts, beef stock and dried fruit.

L CHIL

A VANILL

SEAWEED

FRUIT

L HO O C DY AL UL O ED M Y/ NT E H RT ERM F EA PER PEP

OT HE R

IRY A D

F R U ITY

ROPICAL

MILK

CREAM

Touch Grana Padano matured for CH between nine and 16 months O CO SO has a certain amount of LA UR suppleness and elasticity, T M ILK E but there is a marked CIT decrease in these RU S ZES qualities in longer T aged cheeses. Those APP LE over 20 months PEAR are much harder, STON grainier and E FRU IT crumblier. T

AMMONIA

Discover the complex flavours and textures of Grana Padano for yourself with our sensory tasting guide below. The World Cheese Awards tasting wheel is also a useful tool for creating unique descriptions for all styles of cheese.

TER BUT URT GH M YO EA CR UR L SO ME ER RA TT CA E BU DG ED FU K O CO

Look You can tell a lot about a cheese by how it looks. Younger Grana Padano, aged for a minimum of nine months, will be milky white to pale yellow in colour, but will become progressively darker and grainier with maturation. 24-month cheeses are a deep gold colour and have an abundance of calcium lactate and tyrosine crystals.

Sweet Sour Bitter Savoury (umami) Salty

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FIVE GRANA PADANO RECIPE HACKS

It seems that in times of crisis the world turns to cheese. That’s the experience of Grana Padano producers at least, who remarkably sold more cheese last year than in 2019 – despite restaurants and hotels around the world being closed for large stretches of time. Unable to travel or eat out in the way they once did, people have instead found solace in eating cheese at home in record amounts with tried-and-trusted favourites the preferred choice. They don’t come more tried and trusted than Grana Padano. The grainy, hard-cooked cheese has been made for the best part of a thousand years in the Po Valley in Italy and carries a Protected Designation of Origin (PDO), which safeguards its traditions and quality standards. This provenance has proved a useful selling point for retailers, who have the time and expertise to explain the where, how and why of their cheeses. Grana Padano’s flexibility also works to the advantage of retailers. The cheese’s different flavour and texture profiles, depending on how long it has been aged for, mean it can be served and sold in a variety of ways. Put it to work in the kitchen, whether that’s in snacks and side dishes, starters and mains or even ice cream (see opposite), but don’t underestimate the ability of mature cheeses to also take centre stage on the cheeseboard either. Complex flavours, which can take in sweet and buttery notes but also savoury and nutty flavours, make it a cheese that deserves deeper contemplation, perhaps with something on the side to match. There are numerous wines, beers and honeys that can be paired with Grana Padano, providing plenty of cross-selling opportunities for switched-on shopkeepers. It’s this versatility that has helped Grana Padano flourish in the face of the crisis and why it remains the most consumed PDO cheese in the world today. As Renato Zaghini, president of the Grana Padano Protection Consortium, says: “It’s a food that can withstand the test of time.” Patrick McGuigan Editor

A MESSAGE FROM GRANA PADANO One of the many strengths of delis, farm shops, cheesemongers and food halls is their ability to delight their customers by explaining where and how good food is made, and what makes it so special. This has been especially true during the past 18 months when the provenance and quality of food has become more important in a world that has been turned upside down. With this in mind, the Consortium for the Protection of Grana Padano PDO is very pleased to bring you this supplement in collaboration with the Guild of Fine Food. Over the coming pages we aim to explain why Grana Padano is the most consumed PDO cheese in the world and to give independent retailers everything they

need to tell the story of our cheese. Think of it as a guide to the where, how and why of Grana Padano, with information on flavours and textures, cookery and pairing tips, and cutting and portioning advice. There’s also plenty of insight into the landscape, animals and age-old skills of the Po River Valley, where the cheese has been made for nearly a thousand years. It’s this tradition that underpins and shapes every wheel of Grana Padano. It also ensures that every crumbly, savoury wedge that is cut and wrapped on the cheese counter is equally delicious. We hope you enjoy learning more about what we do and how place, time and skill come together to create a unique cheese with a tale to tell.

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Grana Padano popcorn Grating Grana Padano Riserva onto freshly popped kernels of corn, with a sprinkle of sweet paprika, turns an everyday snack into something really special. Baked fennel with sage Take thick slices of blanched fennel and top with sage and sprinkle generously with grated Grana Padano. Then bake in a hot oven until golden and bubbly for a super simple, but deeply satisfying side. Savoury biscotti A twist on a classic Italian treat. Add grated 16-month Grana Padano to biscotti dough studded with whole almonds to create wonderfully nutty, savoury biscuits. Grana Padano ice cream Don’t knock it until you’ve tried it. Grana Padano melted into an equal amount of cream makes a base for a savoury ice cream that is wonderful with pears in syrup, chopped walnuts and fresh mint. Finish with a drizzle of olive oil. Cocktails with a crispy twist Grana Padano crisps are the ultimate match for a gimlet gin cocktail. Simply grate 200g of Riserva cheese onto parchment paper, scatter with mixed seeds and bake until the cheese melts, then cool. The resulting cheese crisps have a cracking savoury snap. For more recipes visit: www.granapadano.it/en-ww/granapadano-recipes.aspx

EDITORIAL Editor: Patrick McGuigan Art director: Mark Windsor Cover photography: Isabelle Plasschaert ADVERTISING advertise@gff.co.uk Sales director: Sally Coley GENERAL ENQUIRIES Tel: +44 (0)1747 825200 info@gff.co.uk Guild of Fine Food, Guild House, 23b Kingsmead Business Park, Gillingham, Dorset sp8 5fb uk

PUBLISHED BY The Guild of Fine Food © The Guild of Fine Food Ltd 2021. Reproduction of whole or part of this magazine without the publisher’s prior permission is prohibited. The opinions expressed in articles and advertisements are not necessarily those of the editor or publisher. Managing director: John Farrand PRINTED BY Blackmore, Dorset

A TASTE OF PLACE Grana Padano is produced across five Italian regions, from Veneto to Piedmont and from Emilia-Romagna to Trentino. While producers have to comply with a strict set of specifications, differences in climate, soil structure and local environment can impact the final cheese. The changing landscape is particularly important in terms of the kind of crops that can be grown to feed the cows. Brescia, Bergamo and Cremona: These provinces have strong traditions of corn production and a lot less land is allocated to pastures and meadows than in other provinces. Grana Padano produced here has a more delicate flavour and less intense aroma. The colour of the cheese is also less intense and the ageing period is shorter. Mantua and Piacenza: Here, forage crops grown on pasture lands and meadows, both permanent and temporary, result in a cheese with a stronger aroma, a more intense flavour and more suited to ageing. Vicenza and Verona, Trento and Cuneo: The hilly and Alpine areas in these areas are rich in hill and mountain pastures, so permanent meadows and wild grasses are prevalent. This makes for Grana Padano with rich aromas and more intense and varied flavours.

DID YOU KNOW?

Grana Padano is naturally free of lactose because of the way it is made and aged

THE THREE AGES OF

GRANA PADANO You won’t see it written on the ingredients label, but there is one key element that goes into every single wheel of Grana Padano. Time is an essential constituent when it comes to forging the character of the cheese Matured for months and years in temperature- and humidity-controlled rooms, Grana Padano undergoes physical, chemical and microbiological changes that radically influence the final taste and texture. There are three different styles of cheese, depending on how long they are aged.

You could say Grana Padano is three cheeses in one. 9-16 months Softer and less grainy than the more mature versions, younger cheeses have a pale yellow colour and delicate flavour that is sweet and milky. At this age, Grana Padano is a versatile cheese in the kitchen, perfect for grating over meat and vegetables, and for sauces and gratins. It also works as an appetiser or used as shavings on a fresh salad or beef carpaccio.

Riserva: 20+ months Aged for at least 20 months, Grana Padano Riserva is distinctly grainy in texture, and has a deep straw-yellow colour. Cheeses aged for more than 24 months acquire a richer, fuller flavour, but without becoming overpowering. Think notes of butter, beef stock, grass and nuts. The cheese adds a flourish to a wide range of dishes, but is also more than happy as the star of the show on a luxurious cheeseboard, with nuts, fruits and chutneys.

16-20 months With a soft straw-yellow colour, Grana Padano ‘over 16 months’ develops a classic grainy, crumbly texture. The flavour balances notes of butter and hay with a tanginess that is ideal for adding a kick to hot dishes, such as quiches, soufflés and vegetable pies. The cheese can also be grated and used like a seasoning in pasta sauces, risottos and soups. At this age, the cheese is also complex enough to hold its own on a cheeseboard. U N D E R S TA N D I N G G R A N A PA DA N O

LINK

THREE WAYS WITH HONEY

DID YOU KNOW?

All Grana Padano wheels are examined with traditional inspection tools, including a small hammer, needle, and probe, at nine months

There’s a long tradition of serving Grana Padano with honey in Italy, but not all honeys are the same. Here are three recommended matches. Eucalyptus honey A honey that is full of toffee, liquorice and salted caramel notes, this works well with medium mature Grana Padano, aged over 16 months, which has a balance of dairy, savoury and salty flavours.

IN THE GLASS Acacia honey The mild vanilla taste of acacia honey creates a delicate contrast with the milky, mildly spicy notes of young Grana Padano cheese. The perfect partner for 9-16 month cheeses.

Forest honey For Riserva cheeses aged for more than 20 months, something a little darker and more intense is required. Forest (sometimes known as honeydew) honey is just the ticket. Sticky brown and full of nutty dried fruit flavours, it’s a mighty match for more powerful mature cheeses.

DID YOU KNOW?

It takes 15 litres of milk to make 1kg of Grana Padano

The diversity of flavours in Grana Padano makes it a firm friend to a range of wines. The cross-selling opportunities are boundless. 9-16 months with Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro

This light, fruity sparkling red wine made in Modena is scented with strawberry, wild blackberry and rose notes with a velvety texture thanks to a little residual sugar. It pairs beautifully with milder Grana Padanos, which are still in their milky youth. ALSO TRY:

English sparkling wine; Prosecco; Rosé

16-20 months with Greco di Tufo

Made with at least 85% Greco grapes in the province of Avellino, this dry, medium- to fullbodied white wine bursts with floral, fruity and wild fennel flavours, making it a lovely match for medium mature Grana Padano. ALSO TRY: Soave

Superiore; Dolcetto d’Alba, Chianti

20+ months with Sicilia Nero d’Avola

This robust red from Sicily with pronounced tannins is marked by complex flavours of geranium, candied orange, coffee and clove. It’s a full-bodied wine that stands up well to the bold flavours of Riserva Grana Padano, balancing the cheese’s intense savoury notes. ALSO TRY:

Chianti Classico; Langhe Nebbiolo; Primitivo

THREE WAYS WITH BEER

Grana Padano is just as happy to work with grain as with grape. Bitter The sweet, malty tones of British bitters work surprisingly well with Grana Padano, aged up to 16 months. The beer’s dry, bitter flavour and low alcohol levels complement the sweet, milky cheese.

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Belgian Blonde Ale This complex style of beer, which can take in caramel, honey and fruit notes, is the perfect foil for Grana Padano aged for 16-20 months. The sweetness in the beer contrasts with the salty, savoury cheese.

Black IPA Born in the US, this style of beer is rich with tropical fruit and roasted coffee notes. It’s a fascinating match for extra mature Grana Padano, aged for more than 24 months.

The president of the Grana Padano Protection Consortium has been a devotee of the cheese from an early age. His experience has helped elevate the world’s most popular PDO cheese to new heights

BORN TO CHEESE Renato Zaghini still remembers walking into the cheese store as a child and smelling the intoxicating perfume of Grana Padano. “My father was an employee of a dairy and I grew up playing there with other kids,” he explains. “I remember with emotion when we went to the warehouse, which at that age looked so much bigger than it does now, and caught the scent of a freshly cut wheel of cheese.” With childhood memories like these, it’s no surprise that Zaghini grew up to be a big cheese in the world of Grana Padano. He has been president of Mantua-based Grana Padano producer Caseificio Europeo for 23 years and was treasurer of the Grana Padano Consortium for 17 years, until 2020 when he was named boss of the organisation tasked with protecting and promoting the famous grainy cheese. Zaghini is a busy man, splitting his time between the dairy, the Consortium and his family farm, but he still keeps a close eye on cheese quality at Caseificio Europeo, especially in the cheese store. “When I can, I like to be present when the wheels are tested with the little hammer,” says Zaghini. “Its sound is like music for those who produce Grana Padano.”

Based in Bagnolo San Vito, the cooperative Caseificio Europeo first started making cheese in 1856 and produces around 250 wheels of Grana Padano a day, using raw cows’ milk from around 25 members. “We’re based between the Mincio and Po rivers, a land rich in water,” he says. “The countryside is beautiful, well landscaped and loved, with grazing cows. In the dairy, there are employees who, like me, come from a long family tradition of cheesemakers, but also foreign workers, who have been integrated in our way of life with great passion.” The close-knit nature of the cooperative is typical of Grana Padano cheesemakers, who have helped make it the world’s most consumed PDO cheese. They faced an uncertain future when COVID-19 struck, however, with the hospitality sector locked down across the world – a situation that was top of Zaghini’s in-tray when he was was appointed the president of the Consortium. “As soon as I was elected in the middle of the pandemic, I was committed to ensuring that not a single litre of milk was wasted,” he says. “With restaurants and hotels closed, we went directly into the consumer’s home, who

HOW TO CUT A GRANA PADANO • To cut a quarter wheel of Grana Padano into eighths, score completely around the rind, from top to bottom, using the hooked knife. Ensure the rind is cut to a depth of 1.5cm. • Insert both knives: one in the corner and one in the top. Take out, turn the cheese over and repeat on the base.

GRANA PADANO IN NUMBERS

5,255,451 made

WHEELS

41% € 3 . 2 5 b n value of 2020

PA D A N O

EXPORTED

sales

4,000

126

FA R M S

CHEESE DAIRIES

40,000 people in

GRANA 2020

GRANA PADANO

EMPLOYED

production

chose Grana Padano PDO not only because it’s good and nutritious, but because it’s easy to keep over time and therefore perfect for those who couldn’t go out.” The strategy worked with production of Grana Padano actually increasing by 2.2% last year. The UK was a particularly buoyant market with exports here up almost 10%. Not one to rest on his laurels, Zaghini has already devised • Remove both knives and plunge the spatula knife into the centre of the cut line. Gently twist to ease the quarters apart. • To cut eighths into consumer portions, always score a line around the cheese including through the paste on the cut surface. • Make a 1cm cut all the way around then with the cheese resting on its flat base, plunge the almond knife into the cheese and gently ease apart.

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a four-year plan to build on the momentum using communication and promotions to increase consumption by at least 11% by the end of 2024. He has also led ambitious changes back at Caseificio Europeo, investing heavily in new copper vats and doubling the size of the maturing operation. The dairy has also invested around €1m in reducing energy consumption by 50% with new heating and refrigeration technology. “Tradition has always been a key value for Grana Padano, but innovation is necessary and has allowed us to improve many aspects of our work,” he says. It’s all part of the evolution of a cheese that has been made for a thousand years, he adds. “Grana Padano PDO is a food that can withstand the test of time. Through

DID YOU KNOW?

‘Grana’ means ‘grainy’ in Italian. ‘Padano’ comes from the Italian name for the Po Valley: ‘Pianura Padana’

THE WHERE AND HOW

Grana Padano’s history stretches back nearly a thousand years to the Po River Valley, where it is thought monks at Chiaravalle Abbey in Lombardy first created the cheese. The Grana Padano Consortium was formed in 1954 and the cheese won PDO protection in 1996.

Where 33 provinces between Lombardy, Veneto, Piedmont, EmiliaRomagna and Trentino Alto Adige. How Made exclusively from raw Italian cows’ milk from the production area, which is partially skimmed by natural surface skimming. The milk is processed in copperlined cauldrons large enough to produce two wheels of cheese.

ageing, it develops its unforgettable flavour whilst becoming a source of energy for those who eat it. But it has also brought together people and princes, it has helped them during plagues and wars, and it is produced in every territory of the Po Valley up to the slopes of the Alps and the Apennines. It is part of a territory that has written important pages in the history of Italy and Europe.”

The cheese is typically made with natural whey starters, and must be coagulated with calf rennet. The curd is cut into grain-like pieces using a giant whisk, called a ‘spino’, which are heated and stirred at 53-56°C, then left to grow firm. Using a wooden shovel (‘pala’) and a linen cloth (‘schiavino’), the cheesemakers raise

• To cut into smaller portions, score around the end of the segment to remove the ‘pointed’ end first. Thereafter divide the segment into two using same method as before, scoring the rind and paste in the same way. And gently easing the two halves apart along the cut.

the curd from the bottom of the vat and divide it into two equal parts, known as ‘twin wheels’, each of which is wrapped in cloth. Each new wheel is enclosed in a cylindrical mould (‘fascera’), which is pressed by a heavy disk. It is also embossed with the marks of origin. The young cheeses are immersed in brine for 14 to 30 days and matured for a minimum of 9 months, to more than

20 months. Each cheese weighs between 24kg and 40kg. After passing strict quality tests every cheese is fire-branded. It is when that seal of approval is added that the cheese can be called Grana Padano PDO.

DID YOU KNOW? • Continue to divide wedges into suitable sizes for retailing. Ensure each portion includes a small amount of rind.

One in four litres of milk produced in Italy is used to make Grana Padano

Visit the Curiosities page at www.granapadano.it and watch a video on how to break a whole wheel down to retail portions

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