LE GRUYÈRE AOP:
PRI DE O F P LACE A comprehensive guide to selling Switzerland’s mighty mountain cheese
It might be a familiar sight in shops around the globe, but Le Gruyère AOP is still firmly rooted in the place where it has always been made Le Gruyère AOP is a big cheese in more ways than one. Made in 35kg wheels that require strong arms for lifting, the cheese is famous across the world where it is sold everywhere from small fromageries to big supermarkets. But in other ways, Le Gruyère AOP is still small in scale, made with milk from tiny farms in village dairies, not factories. To truly understand both sides of the famous cheese, requires a proper appreciation of the terroir, history and way of life in the Alps in Western Switzerland where it is made. Under the terms of it Appellation d’Origine Protégée (AOP), which protects where and how it is produced, Le Gruyère AOP can only be made in Switzerland in the cantons of Fribourg Vaud, Neuchâtel, and Jura, and a few municipalities of Bern. This Alpine region is home to more than 1,800 farms, who deliver milk to their local village dairies twice a day. On average each dairy farmer has just 30-50 cows – a tiny number by modern standards. These family farms are at
DID YOU KNOW?
It takes 400 litres of milk to make a 35kg wheel of Le Gruyère AOP
the heart of what makes the cheese so special, acting as custodians of the land and guardians of quality and tradition. By law, milk for Le Gruyère AOP can only come from cows fed on grass in the summer and hay in the winter – the vast majority of which is grown in the region. That means strictly no additives or silage (fermented grass). The region’s valleys, hills and mountains echo with the gentle ring of
A SENSE OF PLACE
Le Gruyère is legally protected by an Appellation d’Origine Protégée (AOP), similar to the EU’s PDO status. This means: • The cheese can only be made in the cantons of Fribourg, Vaud, Neuchâtel and Jura in Switzerland, and a few municipalities of Bern e Gruyère AOP must be made with •L raw milk • Additives, GMOs and preservatives are strictly forbidden •7 0% of the cows’ forage must come from the farm •S ilage is forbidden •M ilk must be used within 18 hours after milking
cow bells as the animals graze diverse pastures. The milk for Le Gruyère AOP typically comes from Red Holstein and Holstein cows, but also Montbéliardes, Brown Swiss and Simmentals. Each animal produces about 30kg of milk per day, munching their way through 20kg of natural forage (grass or hay), plus natural proteins, with at least 70% of the cows’ diet coming from the dairy farm. It takes around 400 litres of fresh milk to produce one 35 kg wheel of cheese, with the animals milked morning and night. After each milking, the farmer delivers directly to the local dairy, which by law must be located within a 20km journey from the farm. Crucially only raw milk is permitted so that the full flavour of the pasture and the unique microflora of the farms and dairies themselves is fully expressed in the final cheese. Like the farms that supply them, the dairies themselves are typically small family affairs, which work with just a handful of local farms. There are more than 160 Le Gruyère AOP cheese dairies, run by craftsmen (and it is mainly men), who must complete four years of schooling to become ‘cheese masters’. They often work seven days a week, often side-by-side with their wives, starting at 5am and finishing around lunchtime, before caring for their cheeses in the cellar and taking in the evening milk at around 7pm. It means long days and hard work, but this is how it has always been done.
The taste of t 2
LE GRUYÈRE: PRIDE OF PLACE
WELCOME TO THE WORLD OF LE GRUYÈRE AOP
900 YEARS IN THE MAKING To really know Le Gruyère AOP requires a quick history lesson. Records show that the cheese was made around the small town of Gruyères in the Canton of Fribourg in 115. Medieval chronicles reference the expertise of the local cheesemakers, who turned milk into a full-fat cheese that was even exported to France and Italy. The cross-border popularity of the cheese continued into the 17th century, when the name Gruyère was first recognised officially in 1602 as exports boomed. As people emigrated from the Fribourg to other parts of Switzerland and the cheese became more popular, the geographical production zone spread to the cantons
of Vaud, Neuchâtel and Jura, as well as to neighbouring France. The cheese was increasingly imitated in other areas and a campaign to gain protection for the name Gruyère began to build momentum in the 19th century. Negotiations were held in Madrid (1891) and Paris (1926) to get legal recognition, before a meeting in Rome in 1930 led to the signing of a first agreement to protect the denominations of goods and their origin. However, it was only in 2001 that Gruyère cheese was granted Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) at a national level and then full AOP status for all of Europe in 2011.
DID YOU KNOW?
If you ever get the opportunity to visit Switzerland to see Le Gruyère AOP being made, then you should jump at the chance. By spending time at the small farms, village dairies and specialist affineurs that devote their lives to the cheese it soon becomes clear what makes it so special. Le Gruyère AOP is a global brand, but this is only possible through the solidarity and hard work of thousands of small businesses in the Swiss mountains that come together to create something that is bigger than the sum of their parts. This supplement aims to tell the story of this collective spirit, which is rooted in the landscape, history and culture of Switzerland, and is expressed in cheeses that are full of flavour. Britain’s delis, farm shops, food halls and cheese shops will undoubtedly know and love Le Gruyère AOP, but there’s always more to learn. From the strict rules that govern its production and the various styles to how to taste the cheese professionally and what to pair it with, we aim to give you the full picture.
There are only around 50 chalets spread around the mountains of Fribourg, Vaud and Bernese Jura that make Le Gruyère d’Alpage AOP
f terroir
EDITORIAL Editor: Patrick McGuigan Art director: Mark Windsor ADVERTISING advertise@gff.co.uk Sales director: Sally Coley GENERAL ENQUIRIES Tel: +44 (0)1747 825200 info@gff.co.uk www.gff.co.uk Guild of Fine Food, Guild House, 23b Kingsmead Business Park, Gillingham, Dorset sp8 5fb uk
LE GRUYÈRE: PRIDE OF PLACE
PUBLISHED BY The Guild of Fine Food © The Guild of Fine Food Ltd 2022. Reproduction of whole or part of this magazine without the publisher’s prior permission is prohibited. The opinions expressed in articles and advertisements are not necessarily those of the editor or publisher. Managing director: John Farrand PRINTED BY Blackmore, Dorset
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The alchemy of turning raw milk into Le Gruyère AOP is a proud tradition that has been passed down through the generations
The making of a masterpiece It’s a ritual that has taken place every morning for hundreds of years and is still going strong today. As the sun rises over the mountains, farmers deliver fresh milk to dairies across the Swiss alps, where it is gratefully received by the cheesemaker. It marks the beginning of a magical process of alchemy that sees liquid raw milk turned into hard cheese that can be aged for a year or more. The morning milk is mixed with evening milk, which has been left to settle overnight, in a copper vat. The vat is
important – only copper can be used under the terms of Le Gruyère’s AOP, partly because it has long been the tradition, but also because it distributes heat more evenly and contributes to the cheese’s unique flavour and texture. The milk is left raw and unpasteurised, so that the unique microflora and flavours are not damaged. Likewise natural starter cultures made from whey are used to kick-start the cheesemaking process, ensuring a diverse family of lactic acid bacteria are introduced to the milk
NATURALLY LACTOSE-FREE Shoppers who are intolerant to lactose often believe they can’t eat cheese, but a well informed cheesemonger knows better.
Le Gruyère AOP is naturally free of lactose because the sugar in the milk is fermented into lactic acid during the production process and the long maturation period. The cheese is also glutenfree and contains no GMOs.
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This is good news for concerned consumers and for cheesemongers, who can tap into growing demand for free-from foods. According to research, the global market for lactose-free cheeses is growing at 8% a year and is due to more than double in the next decade. More importantly, if you can explain to a lactose-intolerant customer that it safe for them to eat Le Gruyère AOP, they will love you forever.
rather than the limited range found in the lab-grown frozen bacteria used by many industrial producers. Once the milk has matured, traditional rennet is added to create a dense curd in the vat. It’s a remarkable thing to see liquid become solid thanks to a natural enzyme extracted from the stomach of a calf. At this point, cheesemaking starts to gather pace in the warm, steamy dairy. The curd is cut into tiny pieces the size of grains of wheat with knives known as cheese harps (‘tranche-caillé). This
DID YOU KNOW?
At four months, the wheels of cheese are checked and taxed by experts of the Interprofession du Gruyère association, according to very precise and rigorous quality criteria. They can display the name Le Gruyère AOP only after this taxation. LE GRUYÈRE: PRIDE OF PLACE
THE FOUR FACES OF LE GRUYÈRE AOP Le Gruyère AOP
Aged for six to nine months, the Classic cheese has a soft pliable texture and a delicate aroma. The flavour is pleasant and sweet with sweet milk and butter notes, plus hints of hazelnuts and a gentle savoury finish.
Le Gruyère AOP Réserve
An older cheese that is matured for at least 10 months, but often much longer, Le Gruyère AOP Réserve is a much more intense experience. The texture becomes increasingly firm and crumbly as it ages with a full-bodied, fruity flavour that often takes in savoury notes (especially near the rind).
Le Gruyère AOP Bio
DID YOU KNOW?
Made from organic milk produced according to the standards set by BioSuisse, the cheese is similar in style to the Classic and Réserve, starting out with a gentle refined flavour at six to nine months, before becoming more intense at 10 months and above.
Only open copper vats with a maximum capacity of 6,600 litres can be used to make Le Gruyère AOP.
helps separate the curd from whey, a process that is encouraged by heating and stirring the curd at 57°C (135°F) for 40-45 minutes. The cheesemaker carefully checks the curd by hand kneading the small grains together to check the texture and when completely satisfied pumps the contents of the vat (curds and whey) into round moulds, where the whey rapidly drains away. Each mould is marked on its outer edge (the ‘heel’) with the inscription ‘Le Gruyère AOP’. A marking made with casein (a natural protein found in milk) is made on the curd, indicating the number of the cheese wheel and of the cheese dairy, plus the manufacturing date. It is then pressed for about twenty hours, with an applied force of up to 900kg to help further squeeze whey from the curd and create a smooth paste, before each wheel is brined for 24 hours. In many ways this is only the start of the journey for Le Gruyère AOP. The maturation process is as much a part of the cheese’s production process as the initial make. Traditionally, cheesemakers look after their young wheels, which weigh between 2540kg, in their cellars for around three LE GRUYÈRE: PRIDE OF PLACE
Le Gruyère d’Alpage AOP
months, before they are passed on to specialist cheese maturers, known as an ‘affineurs’. There are 11 affineurs in the production region, who carefully ripen the cheeses to perfection in ‘caves d’affinage’ - maturing cellars that are kept a constant 90% humidity and 1218°C (59°F) temperature. The wheels are also turned and brushed with brine to create a golden, orange rind with a wonderful rich aroma. How long affinage lasts is up to the cellar masters, who have decades of experience in developing cheeses to their full potential and use all their senses to assess the cheeses, taking samples with their cheese irons to inspect the appearance, texture, aroma and taste. They even tap the wheels to listen for any cracks or other defaults. Some cheeses will be ready at five months. Others will reach their full potential and 18 or even 24 months. There are so many factors that can influence the final cheese. From the weather and the geographical location of the farm and the dairy to the knowhow of the cheese-maker and the refiner, each cheese follows a slightly different path as it develops its own unique character.
A seasonal cheese that is made between mid-May and mid-October high up on mountain pastures, where the cows graze a remarkably diverse array of herbs, flowers and wild grasses. The raw milk is turned into 25kg wheels in small chalets, where cheesemakers work with copper cauldrons hung over open wood fires, and press the cheeses in cloth. At the beginning of autumn, the Alpine herdsmen and their cows come back down from the mountains for the winter in a celebration known as the ‘désalpe’.
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FRESH CREAM FRES H BU T TER REN DER ED BO BUT ILE TER DM AC ILK IDI FIE YO DC GH UR AC UR D ID T IFI ED W HE Y
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Start by cutting a wheel in half using a double-handled cheese wire. You can then cut one of the halves into quarters of thirds, which are easier to work with. Do this using your wire or a doublehandled knife
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Give the cheese a squeeze – texture is important. A young Le Gruyère AOP has a dense, pliable structure, which is almost fudgey to the touch. Mature cheeses become much harder and crumbly with more snap and brittleness.
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BREAKING DOWN A WHEEL OF LE GRUYÈRE AOP
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FRESH CURD
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MEAT H T MEAT BROT RENNE T E LIC N IL N E VAN CALF R C IC L IL ELI VAN AM R A L A IL C D VAN TE E FFE AS TO O L T ME RA ED W CA T N L TE MA LA CO O CH N AI PL
While it’s tempting to tuck straight into a delicious piece of Le Gruyère AOP, it’s better to take your time and fully appreciate the experience. A visual inspection of the cheese is a good starting point. Classic cheeses, aged for six to nine months, have lighter rinds and a paler paste, compared to Réserve cheeses, which will become progressively darker and more golden. You may also spot some crystals in mature cheeses. These are amino acids called tyrosine, which form as the protein structure breaks down during maturation. They add a lovely crunch to the cheese.
FRESH MILK
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Slowly chew the cheese to let the complex LAC S TIC .. AS . flavours fully express R G OF N W themselves and try ND O I R M W to pinpoint flavours NE Y on the aroma HA ASS D R G N I T HAY WE ER D wheel (opposite) E S S T AS EE MEN GR FER CH as you do so. TO SS POTA Cheeses aged GRA D R LOWE NTE CAULIF ME six to nine FER CELERY ABLES months will ET EG V BOILED GREEN PEAS likely have GARLIC ALLIACEO delicate lactic US ONION notes of fresh WOO DY HUM butter, milk US HO NE FL WO Y and cream OW OD SHA ER FLO VIN S with stone fruit GS WE R HO RO aromas, such as N SE EY VIO apricot and apple. LE HA T ZE There could also LN UT be some savoury, Y T I U nutty and salty FR characteristics, but these are unlikely to dominate. Le Gruyère AOP Réserve will probably be more powerful and intense with ‘brown’ flavours, such as caramel, chocolate and toasted nuts, plus vegetal notes, such as hay, wet SMELL grass and roasted onion. Time will tell with Le Gruyère Tropical fruit flavours, such AOP, so while Classic cheeses as pineapple, are also more have gentle milky aromas likely at this age, while umami with delicate hints of fresh and spicy notes become hazelnuts, pasture or hay, the much more noticeable. Think Réserve cheeses often have meat broth and nutmeg. The a much stronger scent. Think Alpage cheese can be even caramel and roasted nuts, more complex and powerful but also fruit notes. The rind with pronounced animal and in particular could be quite floral notes. pungent, earthy and meaty.
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A step-by-step guide to getting the most from your cheese
ITS
How to taste Le Gruyère AOP
Cut the nose off the quarter around a hand’s distance from the heel, using a wire. This can be sliced crossways into smaller pieces The remaining large piece of cheese can then be cut into smaller wedges to order. Do not pre-cut too many pieces in a single day to avoid them drying out
LE GRUYÈRE: PRIDE OF PLACE
DID YOU KNOW?
You can identify the cheesemaker that made your cheese by looking up the number imprinted on the heel at gruyere.com
PERFECT PARTNERS: WINE, BEER AND BEYOND DID YOU KNOW?
Le Gruyère AOP has been named Supreme Champion at the prestigious World Cheese Awards more than any other cheese. It has scooped the top prize on four different occasions.
Make sure to wrap all cut faces of the cheese tightly in cling film to stop drying out and oxidation Before you offer samples to customers, make sure you try the cheese yourself first to make sure it is in good condition and you can describe it accurately. Use the steps outlined above and the tasting wheel LE GRUYÈRE: PRIDE OF PLACE
The rounded flavours of Le Gruyère AOP are a firm friend to many different drink styles Wine White wines are a good match with younger cheeses. Keep it all Swiss with a glass of Chasselas – an easy going white grape – or an oaked Chardonnay, which picks up on the buttery notes of the cheese. More mature cheeses match nicely with red wines, from lighter styles such as Pinot Noir, and Gamay through to more full-bodied reds for cheeses at 18 months plus. Try Grenache, Syrah or Cabernet Sauvignon.
Beer Malt-forward ales are a marvellous match for mature Le Gruyère AOP, picking up on the sweet and savoury notes of the cheese. A dark Belgian dubbel or German doppelbock work well, as do brown ales and even porter. For younger cheeses golden ales and saisons are a good bet. Other drinks There’s plenty of other options to fill your glass when nibbling on Le Gruyère AOP. Ginger ale and kombucha both work well on the soft drinks front, while a medium sweet cider can also pair with more mature cheeses. For very powerful, brothy cheeses a dram of single malt whisky (open it up with a splash of water) is just the ticket.
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AN ANCIENT RECIPE
WITHOUT GLUTEN OR LACTOSE. TALK ABOUT FORWARD THINKING.
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LE GRUYÈRE: PRIDE OF PLACE