FINE Wine & Champagne India 171 by Fine Publishing India

Aston Martin Lagonda Limited, Banbury Road, Gaydon, Warwickshire, CV35 0DB, England, Registered in England Number 01199255.

Official government fuel consumption figures in litres/100km (mpg) for the Aston Martin DB11: urban 16.6 (17); extra urban 8.5 (33.2); combined 11.4 (24.8). CO2 emissions 265 g/km. The mpg/fuel economy figures quoted are sourced from official regulated test results obtained through laboratory testing. They are for comparability purposes only and may not reflect your real driving experience, which may vary depending on factors including road conditions, weather, vehicle load and driving style.

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F I N E

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FINE Estate

W I N E

C H A M P A G N E

I N D I A

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FINE Experience

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FINE Vintage

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FINE Chronicles

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FINE Australia

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FINE Legend

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

W I N E

C H A M P A G N E

I N D I A

FINE Contents

F I N E

PAGE 90

FINE Champagne

9 FINEEDITORIAL

The Highway High

10 FINENAIR MATHEW Wine & Film

PAGE 106

FINE Tasting

12 FINEESTATE

From Art to Wine

26 FINEEXPERIENCE

Colgin Cellars in India

48 FINEVINTAGE

Napa Valley 2010 & 2011

66 FINECHRONICLES

Finding Port in Africa

70 FINEAUSTRALIA

Australia’s Best from the 2000s

78 FINELEGEND

The Best Vega Sicilia Unico Vintages 1915-2008

90 FINECHAMPAGNE

Finest Prestige Cuvée Rosés

106 FINETASTING PAGE 114

FINE Investing

114 FINEINVESTING

Louis Roederer Cristal Champagne

The FINE Wine 200 Index

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WRITERS Rajiv Singhal Rajiv Singhal is an entrepreneur who pioneered activities in the luxury sector in India. He studied

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clients. Among other path breaking initiatives, he helped set up the market for wine in India over the

Volume 7 Issue 1 Q1 2017

last 20 years. Appointed Chevalier de l’Ordre National du Merite by the President of France,

Editor Rajiv Singhal

Pekka Nuikki

Publisher Rajiv Singhal for Fine Publishing India Private Limited Director of Editorial Pekka Nuikki

Mr. Singhal is also the Ambassador of Champagne to India and loves to challenge himself.

Pekka Nuikki is an author and one of the leading experts on fine wines in Europe. He has published over twenty acclaimed international wine and art books. He is an award winning photographer, who has exhibited his artwork all over the world and has worked as creative director of an advertising agency group. Mr. Nuikki is also the luckiest man in the world, having hit seven holes-in-one.

Chief Executive Ritu Singhal

Juha Lihtonen

Wine Manager Radhika Puar

Nordic countries in 2003. Mr. Lihtonen has worked as a wine educator, a wine host on a radio

Art & Creative Sandeep Kaul

for the Master of Wine qualification.

Photographs Shivam Bhatti Administration Archana Burman Distribution Vinita Vaid Cover Photograph Colgin Cellars Editorial & Business Offices 6F Vandhna, 11 Tolstoy Marg, New Delhi 110001 E: contact@fine-magazines.in W: www.fine-magazines.in Subscriber Information T: +91 11 23359874-75 RNI no. DELENG/2010/35861 ISSN 2231-5098 Edited, Printed and Published by Rajiv Singhal on behalf of Fine Publishing India Private Limited. Published from 6F Vandhna, 11 Tolstoy Marg, New Delhi 110001 India. Printed at Aegean Offset Printers, 220-B, Udyog Kendra Extension I, Greater Noida, Uttar Pradesh 201306 India.

All rights reserved. No part of this publication maybe reproduced, stored in any retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means without the prior written consent of the publisher. The opinions of the contributors or interviewees presented in this magazine do not necessarily correspond to nor reflect the opinions of the publisher or the editorial team. While the editorial team do their utmost to verify information published they do not accept responsibility for its absolute accuracy. Fine Publishing does not keep nor return illustrations or other materials that have been sent in unsolicited, and hold the right to make any modifications in texts and pictures published in FINE Wine & Champagne India magazine. We reserve the right to refuse or suspend advertisements.

Economics at Yale, and since then has been simplifying access to the Indian market for international

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Juha Lihtonen is the manyfold Finnish sommelier champion. He was the Best Sommelier in the programme, as well as the wine buyer of a major cruise line. Besides his day jobs, Mr. Lihtonen studies

Essi Avellan MW Essi Avellan is the first Master of Wine from Finland, second ever from the Nordic countries. She was awarded the Lily Bollinger Medal as the best taster and the Tim Derouet Memorial Award as the best overall student in the Master of Wine examination. Ms. Avellan judges at several wine competitions and is a Dame Chevalier of the Ordre des Coteaux de Champagne. Ritu Singhal Ritu Singhal is co-founder of New Delhi based Group Ritu, which has diverse interests in private equity, marketing, consulting and publishing. She trained as a textile designer at Sophia Polytechnic in Bombay, and experiments with new techniques on new media. As voluntary work, she set up an annual craft bazaar to empower women artisans. When not doting on her two teenagers, Mrs. Singhal is up for any gastronomic adventure. Aishwarya Nair Mathew Aishwarya Nair Mathew is the corporate head for food & wine at Leela Palaces, Hotels and Resorts founded by her grandfather and father. Having graduated from the Culinary Institute of America in New York, she is focussed on bringing a global offering of culinary arts to guests. She was felicitated with the Diplôme d’Honneur of the Corporation des Vignerons de Champagne in 2008. Based in Singapore, Ms. Nair Mathew is preparing to launch her eponymous fashion label. Ken Gargett Ken Gargett was raised in a family that did not drink, but when he read law at university in his home town of Brisbane, Australia and London, UK, he became obsessed with wine and moved to full time wine writing nearly twenty years ago. Mr. Gargett won the Vin de Champagne Award, received the Len Evans Scholarship and is a Chevalier of the Ordre des Coteaux de Champagne.

ne every four minutes. Road accidents in India, specially fatalities caused by drunk

FINE Editorial

Highway Blues

driving, are so high that India could well be “the accident capital of the world”.

In a landmark judgment, the Hon’ble Chief Justice of India, T. S. Thakur, and Justices of the Supreme Court of India, Dr. D. Y. Chandrachud and L Nageswara Rao, ordered all states and union territories in India to cease and desist from granting licences for vending liquor within 500 metres of the outer edge of National and State Highways (even if the conditions on some such stretches would not merit classification even under village paths). The Supreme Court’s “prevention better than cure” approach swept the prison-cell-like liquor oasis dotting our highways into the twilight, with an eye on strengthening the zero tolerance legislations on driving under the influence of alcohol. Much to the chagrin of many of the very influential stakeholders, no heed was paid to the many representations – instead the Court ensured that enforcement on the 1st day of April was no fool’s joke. This judgement has dominated all discussion pertaining to the market for alcoholic beverages in India. Despite the opinion of the Attorney General of India, all luxury hotels (the most important channel of distribution for wine and champagne) were also asked to toe the line. The ripples were felt in the already-sceptical-about-India wine community – it was perceived as another step towards prohibition. Personally, our pioneering intervention (depuis 2005) on champagne and wine education for the graduating class of the Taj Hotels nursery, the Institute of Hotel Management – Aurangabad, could not be conducted as planned for this year’s cohort. Vivanta by Taj has still not managed to draw out an alternative long-winded labyrinth access to our classroom to circumvent the required motorable distance to a 15 kmph pot-hole ridden highway! But, like other similar disruptive interventions by legislature (and judiciary), this is no more than a “speed breaker” in the wine voyage in India – learn to manoeuvre it fast, because it ain’t goin’ nowhere. Subterfuge, or Jugaad in the Indian context, will surely prevail. Till then, it will be none-for-the-road!

Rajiv Singhal FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

COLUMN

AISHWARYA NAIR MATHEW

Broaden your Wine Horizons T

he world of film has a tremendous impact on society. Stars are mimicked, characters become role-models, dialogues get immortalised, reel plots re-enact in real life – it should come as no surprise that film is a very influential medium. And even more so in the case of wine. Wine has always been associated with wealth, with stature, with refined sophistication. More recently, wine has become more accessible, is becoming a preferred choice of drink, and is appreciated in a more professional manner by most of you. The direct impact of film is best elaborated by the surge in wine consumption, specially of the Pinot Noir, following the release of the film, Sideways (2004) which was a comedic production of two friends who come to terms with the meaning of life on a journey through wine country in California. Mondovino (2004), A Good Year (2006), Bottle Shock (2008) represented the harsh realities and nuances that engulf those working to make wine. Off late, many films, documentaries and television shows have entranced a new generation of wine lovers, especially those of you engaging in it for deeper insights. The iconic film Somm (2012) unravels the inner trappings of qualifying to be a Master sommelier, one of the toughest diplomas on earth to attain – only two hundred and thirty-six in the world ever since it was first 10

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awarded in 1969. Through the story of students aspiring to be sommeliers, Somm presents an insider’s view of what it is like to prepare for this daunting exam. Poring over and memorizing laboriously detailed tasting notes, wine profiles, regions (and sub-regions), their climatic uniqueness, why certain vintages are preferred over others, pairing different food with different varietals (and blends) – all these details alert you to the fact that becoming a sommelier is not just about having to open a wine bottle by the table! The story makes you appreciate the diligence and detail in which these people – sommeliers – regard their “craft”. The film embraced a new way in which wine professionals of our time think. Often, for wine training sessions that I conduct, I suggest watching the film Somm in my reading list.

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The Australian documentary, Red Obsession (2013), narrated by Russel Crowe, exposes the boom in the wine industry and highlights the immediate socio-economic implications of the serious over-consumption in the wine markets thanks to the Chinese buyers. It takes you to the centuries-old vineyards in Bordeaux, where you are introduced to the stalwarts and icons of the wine industry including Corinne Mentzelopoulos and the inimitable great Late Paul Pontallier of Château Margaux, Charles Chevalier of Château Lafite Rothschild, Christian Moueix of Château Pétrus and Frederic Engerer of Château Latour amongst others. And then it travels to the modern auction houses around the world where all these (and more) magnificent wines are sold to philistine Chinese collectors cornering the market simply to improve their status. Red Obsession is a wonderful insight into how wine collecting has sadly become an investment driven racket, rather than a true appreciation of the arts. The story of auction houses leads to Sour Grapes (2016) which is the tale of Rudy Kurniawan, who played on the customers’ quest for social mobility to con many into spending millions of dollars on counterfeit wine. Diving into Kurniawan’s intimate circle of friends, it traces the determination of one winemaker to uncover the fraud when a sale of a non-existent wine bottle is announced. A must watch if you really want to get a feel of the depth (or lows) that people are willing to resort to for social acceptance, prestige and adulation through wine. Glorified by film, the Sommelier (or Somm, as one is commonly referred to in the profession) has got to anchor leading

mainstream television series – a testimony to the desirability and respect of the profession. David Schwimmer, is one of the protagonists in the crime drama, Feed the Beast (2016), the story of two friends who are trying to work their way out of debt and their struggle to open a restaurant in Bronx, New York powered with money from the mob! Last, but not the least, and perhaps my favourite of them all is The Wine Show (2016) starring the English actor Mathew Goode (of Good Wife and Downton Abbey fame) and the Welsh actor Matthew Rhys (of The Americans), who uninhibitedly explore the world of wine in this fun and very inviting television show which is the perfect introduction to the appreciation of wine – to the novice and expert alike. They get wine experts who travel the world to bring back the “best” wines to their abode in Tuscany and then in an easy-to-understand way, talk through the wine. Analysing and debunking the esoteric world of wine, they approach subjects like wine labels; people behind the vineyards; weather, soil and grapes – more commonly known as “terroir”. Most importantly, Goode and Rhys demonstrate (as they drive through the vineyards of Italy, if you please) to you, the viewer, that tasting a variety of wines allows you to improve your palate and appreciation of wine. All in all, it is fascinating (and a big relief ) to see how film, media and television personalities now showcase the wine world and its nuances. A trend that is well entrenched, I can only hope that it continues to grow so that more people appreciate the magical world of wine.

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Wine

Text: Juha Lihtonen & Pekka Nuikki

Photos: Pekka Nuikki & Colgin Cellars

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here are few people who have built not one, but two different, internationally acclaimed careers and yet have combined them in a way that has brought joy to people. Californian vintner Ann Colgin, who has conquered the worlds of art and wine, is one of them. She is well known in the world auction circuit for her extensive knowledge of art, as well as for the exquisite wines that bear her name. She is also well known in the Californian wine circles as an energetic benefactor, who has successfully brought together the worlds of gastronomy, fine wines and art at events enjoyed by art and wine enthusiasts.

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Tucked away on a steep hillside in the majestic Pritchard Hill area of Napa Valley, Colgin Cellars is protected from unwanted visitors. It is not a place you wander into by accident. You have to find your way to it. Without instructions, it is simply impossible! An unmarked, steep and serpentine road starting from Sage Canyon Road near Lake Hennessy puts the faith of even invited visitors to test. After miles of rough road and several forks, the traveller may find the winery gate. A driveway, guarded by lines of perfectly trimmed vines, leads to a picturesque building that evokes a Mediterranean villa, at the entrance of which stands radiantly smiling Ann Colgin. “So you finally found your way here!” she laughs, jokingly adding that it took her several years to find the place. We are led inside the house, the walls of which are covered with massive artworks, and beautiful antique objects that captivate our attention. In

the dining hall, however, attention is drawn to a sizeable collection of now empty bottles atop an antique chest of drawers – bottles of different sizes of the most esteemed wines of legendary vintages in the past millennium from around the world. “My husband Joe and I love to share good wines with our friends. Those bottles are memories from some of those beautiful moments”, she says. As we sit down at the table to taste the famed Colgin wines, she adds “I hope Colgin’s wines mature over the years as fabulously as these wines did, but to see that we have to wait a couple of decades.” Enchanted by art Ann Colgin grew up in Waco, Texas. She was the only child of the family, and the apple of her parents’ eyes. The family lived a very social life, and good food and wine were always part of it. “I recall driving with my dad to Louisiana to dine

in great places such as Antoine’s and Galatoire’s. The dinner parties at our place with my parents and their friends were always around good food and wine.” Although gastronomy was highly valued at home, Ann never considered making a career in food or wine. Instead, young Ann dreamed of becoming Manager at the luxury department store Neiman Marcus, headquartered in Dallas. These dreams, however, vanished from her mind at the Dallas Hockaday School for girls, where an inspiring teacher showed her a new direction: art history. She applied and was admitted to study art history at the esteemed Vanderbilt University in Nashville. Art history studies eventually took the young lady to London, where she studied at the world-famous Sotheby’s auction house and “learnt what is the best of the best and why something goes for premium.”

Allegory of the Four Seasons: Harvest, Hyacinthe Collin de Vermont (1693-1761)

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Gone with the wine “Although I don’t really recall my first wine experience, I certainly recall my first fine wine experience. The father of a friend at university was a great art and wine collector, and he once opened some beautiful old Bordeaux including a 1961 Latour, which he gave us the privilege to taste.” At Sotheby’s, it was not long before Ann was attracted to fine wines, and she participated actively in the tastings that the auction house arranged, and developed her taste in wine with the very best from Bordeaux and Burgundy. In the 1980s, she joined Christie’s in New York. French wines were giving way to American, and Ann started travelling more frequently to the Napa Valley to get to know the number one wine-producing area in the United States and the wines that were made there. The Napa Valley Wine Auction offered her an excellent opportunity to learn more. Brian Cole, Ann’s colleague and mentor at Christie’s, was one of the auctioneers invited to the event and helped Ann become familiar with the wines coming from the Napa Valley. “Robert Mondavi opened the worlds eyes to the potential of the relatively young Napa Valley which was blessed

with an exceptional terroir (specially for the reds), and a great deal of innovation and technological advancement has happened here. For me, the Napa Valley was the most amazing part of America. Not just for the wines, but its people, I used to rent a summer house on the valley floor between Calistoga and St. Helena.” “As a passionate consumer, I would visit different wineries and I developed this great passion for Cabernet-based wines. My career in art hinged on knowing the best of the best. The rarity factor gave me an appreciation for topquality, artisanal wines right away, and it was only natural to want to share something really special with people who appreciate the painstaking process of creating an extraordinary wine.” A wine of her own The wine growers and producers, whom Ann had met on frequent trips to the Napa Valley, encouraged her to fulfil her dream and she embraced the opportunity. She hired Helen Turley as her chief winemaker, with whom she found the high-quality Cabernet Sauvignon grapes needed for the wine in Herb Lamb’s vineyard on Howell Mountain. Ann engaged

the Lambs in a long-term agreement, and Turley got to choose the best grapes directly from their vineyard. The wine was made in the facilities of The Napa Wine Company. Eventually, the only thing that was missing was a name for the new wine. “I ended up with the traditional choice in the name of the wine – Colgin. I did not want to use animal names, which seemed to be all the rage at the time. I wanted to cherish my family name, which is a rare and distinctive name. I was also hoping to make something out of this that I can be very proud of. My only worry has been that people pronounce the name correctly, not mixing it with ‘gin’ – as it had nothing to do with the liquor – there is no gin involved”, Ann laughs, reminding us that the name is pronounced ‘Col ghin’.” Ann’s dream became reality in 1995, when the Colgin Herb Lamb Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 1992 was introduced to the market. The wine received plaudits from both the media and collectors, and the entire batch of 250 cases was sold in next to no time. The wine got the attention of wine circles, and Colgin Herb Lamb sold like hot cakes, year after year.

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Ann Colgin & Joe Wender

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Towards Eden The success of her wines encouraged Ann. She developed her project further with the intention of producing wine with grapes from her own vineyards. In 1996, Ann Colgin bought her first vineyard, “Tychson Hill” in St. Helena, an awardwinning property originally planted in the 19th Century and removed during Prohibition. The small, historic and idyllic Tychson Hill vineyard had originally belonged to Josephine Tychson, the first female wine producer in the Napa Valley. Another energetic female producer was taking over! Now, Ann only needed the production facilities and the cellars and she looked feverishly for the perfect place. At this time, Ann also had another role as Director of the Sotheby’s West Coast Wine Department. Here fate intervened: Ann was invited to a wine-tasting dinner hosted by the legendary Burgundy producer Henry Jayer at the famous Spago restaurant in Beverly Hills.

Chief Operating Officer Paul Roberts MS

The evening was unforgettable, not only because of the wines, but also because of the man who charmed Ann Colgin. This was not Henri Jayer, but one of his guests: the experienced Goldman Sachs investment banker and enthusiastic wine collector Joe Wender. “We shared the same passion for the best wines. He was a lover of classic French wines – especially Burgundy, like me. Joe was not interested in Californian wines and did not know I was a wine producer. The first time he tasted my wine was actually on our first date at Le Bernardin in New York, when he surprised me by ordering a bottle of it for us. The rest is history!” Ann recalls. The beginnings of happiness Continuing her long search for prime hillside vineyard land and a perfect site for a winery, Ann was joined by Joe as they looked in the hills that surround the Napa Valley. When the Long family, a major landowner in the Pritchard Hill area, announced that their property was up for sale in 1998, Ann and Joe embraced the opportunity and bought the most prized parcel. This plot of land, high on the hillside, was protected from frost and strong winds, and Lake Hennessy below it created an ideal microclimate for the spot. First, however, the land had to be cleared and made suitable for wine cultivation. The stunted trees and undergrowth were removed using heavy

machinery, and a sizeable number of large rocks were removed from the ground. The project took a whole year and the newly born wine site was named the “IX Estate” – according to the Long family records the site was the ninth parcel. In 1999, Ann and Joe celebrated their wedding at the “IX Estate”. To pay homage to the name of their estate, they picked the ninth of September (ninth month) as the wedding day. The beautiful place was not only a great setting for the wedding, it also symbolised the union of the newlyweds and the beginning of a new happiness that they had both been seeking for a long time.

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Ann remembers that one of her customers once offered her a brand-new Mercedes Benz SUV in exchange for a case of Colgin Herb Lamb 1994. “Unfortunately, I could only say sorry, it was all sold in a day.” A new Napa Valley cult wine was born, and the name Colgin was included alongside the other rising stars of Napa Valley wines: Harlan, Screaming Eagle and Dalla Valle.

Intensely passionate team The role of Chief Winemaker transitioned seamlessly in 1999 from Helen Turley to Mark Aubert and again, in 2007 when Mark handed the mantle to his talented apprentice, Allison Tauziet, who leads a dedicated and accomplished winemaking team with great passion. In 2013, Master Sommelier Paul Roberts joined Colgin as Chief Operating Officer. Roberts is one of California’s most esteemed sommeliers, who became famous for his work with celebrity chef, Thomas Keller. Together with Allison and her assistant Mark Kaigas, Paul Roberts and Alain Raynaud (their Bordeaux-based consultant), Ann and Joe create the blend – over tastings that are spread over several months. “We aim always to have a great

Chief Winemaker Allison Tauziet

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A complete whole Joe and Ann love Northern Rhône wines and did quite a bit of land and clonal research before planting Syrah on this celebrated plot. “It was a big leap of faith, because it was not a proven varietal in the Napa Valley, and nobody had planted it in these hills before. But, the Syrah from this site is drop-dead gorgeous – really sexy. It was a chance worth taking!” While the “IX Estate” was still being developed, David Abreu offered to sell grapes from his Madrona Ranch vineyard. Ann was grateful for the opportunity and used the grapes to produce a Bordeaux-style blended wine called Cariad in 1999. The following year saw the debut wine from the Tychson Hill vineyard: Tychson Hill Cabernet Sauvignon 2000. In 2002, a state-of-the-art winery was completed at the IX Estate. The excellent facilities allowed the Colgin team to produce even finer wines, thanks to the more accurate selection and monitoring process they could now use. Colgin Cellars had undergone a metamorphosis: in a decade, a project that had started with grapes bought from a single farm made into wine in someone else’s facilities with a consultant winemaker had become a top-notch independent winery that produced no less than five estate wines: four Cabernet Sauvignon blends “Herb Lamb”, “Tychson Hill”, “Cariad” and “IX Estate” and the “IX Estate” Syrah. All Colgin wine, whichever site they come from, are really reflective of the quality, the place and the vintage. Ann dwells upon the philosophy, “we are trying to make the greatest expression and create something very special from our sites around the Napa Valley. For me,

the biggest thing in all our wine labels is the word – Colgin.” Collectors’ dream Ann Colgin’s twenty-five year career as a wine producer has been very successful and she is recognised as one of the most distinguished wine producers in the United States. She has succeeded in creating wines that have charmed wine lovers and critics alike, from year to year, and in making them highly desirable. “I am not a fan of buying wine as art or as an investment. I don’t want my wines to be so collectible that they are left in cellars. The art of wine can only be experienced by opening the bottle and drinking it.” A brand has been created that is cherished by both the lucky wine lovers who are on the mailing lists of Colgin Cellars and the ambitious wine making team dedicated to fulfilling and sharing Ann’s dream. She is modest, “our reputation has evolved because the wine keeps getting better and better as does our understanding of our sites. But, without our great vineyards, it would have not been possible.” After tasting the Colgin wines of the past two decades, we find it easy to join those who praise them. The wines are consistent, refined, precise and rich, yet elegant. The texture of the wines is satiny, and the tannins are extremely polished. The ripe black fruit flavours are pure and fragrant. While each of the Colgin wines delivers unique terroir characteristics, they have one thing in common – a fragrant violet flavour profile which adds a touch of a great red Burgundy soul to these big cabernet wines. Ann’s and her team’s inexhaustible quest to push the quality of their wines as close to perfection as possible, has guaranteed consistency in the quality of Colgin wines over two decades. Absolute perfection might not be an end in itself for Ann Colgin – but dedication and commitment to her art certainly are, and those are the qualities that have enabled this energetic woman to build a success story that few can rival. >

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FINE Estate

sense of balance and harmony in the final blend with the sense of place and distinctive personality. We aim always for purity, finesse of power and captivity in all our wines. We want our wines to express perfume, minerality and freshness.” Ann emphasises the words ‘precision’ and ‘selection’ in their quest to make phenomenal wines. “The wines at Colgin are made in small quantities and are highly hand-crafted, just like each individual stitch in a luxury handbag. We are only satisfied to have the most profound expression in our wines, and any part that does not enhance the final wine, never makes it into the final cut.”

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How would you describe the wine brand, Colgin Cellars? We are unique in the world of Cabernet-driven producers in that we follow a Burgundian model. Our wines are uniquely expressive of a single site. In this way, our wine is like original art.

What was the first wine that you fell in love with? A passion for wine is an evolution. My first memorable Californian wines were 1975 Joseph Phelps “Eisele Vineyard” and the 1968 Heitz “Martha’s Vineyard” – both expressed a sense of place.

What is the benchmark for your business? We strive to make the best wine possible every year.

What are the most fascinating wines you have experienced? There are many, but the 1961 Latour-à-Pomerol, the 1947 Vieux-ChâteauCertan, and the 1975 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti “Romanée-Conti”, which I shared with Aubert de Villaine. It is the wine from his wedding year!

What have been your biggest challenges? In terms of winemaking, the inability to control Mother Nature. Otherwise, finding balance in life is difficult. The wine industry, in particular, can be all-consuming. I would not ever want to change that, yet I do think it is important to find a personal balance. What do you find most rewarding about making wine? Sharing it with others! Wine has also been a great vehicle to give back, not only with my time, but also in money. We have raised more than ten million dollars for charity and will continue to support healthcare and arts education for the underprivileged. How has the male-dominated wine business treated you? I do not think this is a male-dominated business. It great for women, as we tend to be patient, team players, and are known to have a great sense of smell! Besides, women are humble workers who have a more nurturing and sensitive approach to things. The key to creating a wine masterpiece? I believe that we have been successful with our wines because we (and the team) have vast experience of tasting the world’s finest wines. Over 12,000 bottles in our private cellar collection enable comparative tastings for the team against Colgin.

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A moment with Ann Colgin

Has anyone from the wine world had an impact on you? David Abreu, without whom I would not plant a vineyard. Helen Turley, our first winemaker, is a great artist and a pioneer who pushed the envelope in California winemaking. Is there any artist who has made a major impression on you? I am always moved by artists who push our senses and cause us to see the world in a new light. These include Picasso for his creative use of shapes, Ed Ruscha for his use of materials such as gunpowder, and James Turrell for his amazing light installations. How do you manage your time? Carefully! Any tips for those who dream of a wine estate? To be really successful, you have to eat, drink and breathe the wine life. You have to be REALLY passionate about wine and patient enough to achieve this – it is not for everyone. Is there still room for newcomers in Napa Valley? Yes, there is always room for someone who wants to do something great.

Ann on her wines IX ESTATE SYRAH

This is a smoky and earthy wine, with deep dark blue fruit. I consider this an incredibly sexy wine. Ann’s recommended food accompaniment: Texas BBQ and Grilled Meats

IX ESTATE

Wine that is made, predominantly, from Cabernet Sauvignon with some quantities of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petite Verdot. The higher altitude (350 m) of this intensely rocky site allows a great sense of earthy flavours in the wine, with notes of sage and herbs de Provence.

Ann’s recommended food accompaniment: Elysian Fields Lamb

TYCHSON HILL

This is, predominantly, a Cabernet Sauvignon from our smallest vineyard (2.5 hectares) planted on iron-rich, gravelly Aiken soil, which offers amazing finesse and minerality along with deep red fruit flavours. Ann’s recommended food accompaniment: Wolfe Ranch Quail (especially with the older Tychson Hill vintages)

CARIAD

This wine is the most exotic, as it has the highest proportion of Merlot and Cabernet Franc. The grapes for this wine, virtually all, come from the Madrona Ranch in Western St. Helena, and the wine always displays the most Bordeaux-like frame. Ann’s recommended food accompaniment: Broken Arrow Ranch Venison

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FINE Experience

Colgin cellars in India text: Ritu & Rajiv Singhal • photos: Hunesh

he “First Couple of Fine Wine”, Dhruv and Rati Sawhney, introduced India to fine wine, and over the last three

decades (yes, thirty years) their wine friends from Delhi, from Mumbai, from different cities in India and from across the world have enjoyed their legendary hospitality.

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

The invite for this years’ vintage was to partake in the very rare offerings of Colgin Cellars from the Napa Valley with the founder vintner, Ann Colgin; her husband and fellow vintner, Joe Wender and COO, Paul Roberts MS. Like in the previous years, the private dinner for the 72 friends of the Sawhney’s was at Longchamp at the Taj Mahal Hotel, New Delhi. For us at FINE, this Colgin visit was a bit more special. At a dinner the next day, at the world acclaimed Indian Accent at The Manor, New Delhi, a handful of us joined the hosts to match Colgin’s wine with India’s food.

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

Mr. Sawhney introduced Colgin Cellars as a reference point for what the Bordeaux blend and Syrah can achieve in the Napa Valley. Colgin’s wines have released to rave reviews, including scores of Parker 100 points. Demand has completely outstripped the tiny quantities offered – those lucky enough to be on the mailing list get allocated bottles not cases!

Ann and Joe have been to India before and enjoyed the pashminas, jewellery and arts. But, this was Colgin’s first tasting series in our part of the world – Colgin are extremely optimistic and confident that India is well served to be a huge force in the wine business in the next decade.

Introductions over, Ann looked back at her years since she founded Colgin in 1992. “I celebrated my 25th harvest this year. It has been a great run. It has been a wonderful odyssey. At Colgin, our focus is to focus very specifically on the special sites where we have planted our grapes and bring out the best expression of each. Our wines have the robustness and personality of Napa Valley and for us neutrality, perfume, and elegance are as important as beauty and balance. Each has its own personality.”

As most guests, save some nonconformists, took their pre-assigned seats at the eight immaculately dressed tables, a very elaborate seven course menu of “the best of the west” by Executive Chef Arun Sundararaj had

At our table, Paul Roberts MS (the 48th in the world), shared his thoughts about the sequencing of the wine. “We are starting with wines produced in first few years of the existence of our winery, and through the evening we will unveil

This was Colgin’s first tasting series in our part of the world

been laid out to complement the seven wines.

FINE Experience

Ann Colgin and Dhruv Sawhney

the different sites that we produce on – different wines and different flavours – so that towards the end of the evening your senses are intoxicated and the wines have matched well the wide variety of flavourful dishes.”

Colgin… and more

Joe, a fellow Yale alum, confessed that Burgundy was his first love – and a strong influence on the philosophy at Colgin. It was in 2001 that Ann and Joe bought a négociant from the region – in a moment of weakness!! They have been improving the “very sleepy” property, and are able to cover the deficit of white wine which they don’t make on their Napa estate by holding on to a few barrels for themselves and occasions

like this one. Their labour of love, Camille Giroud Corton-Charlemagne 2011, was presented as the first wine of the evening with dill crusted scallops (grilled artichoke heart for the vegetarians).

There is a great artistry in what we do at Colgin

While at Sotheby’s in London and Christie’s in New York, Ann fell in love (with wine). And started her journey in this new world – the art world’s loss was the wine world’s gain! Ann reminisced her earlier life and passion for art. “There is a great artistry in what we do at Colgin. Our wines have broad strokes yet very fine details – just like a very fine work of art.”

Rati Sawhney and Joe Wender FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

The splendid setting at Longchamp, The Taj Mahal Hotel, New Delhi

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

FINE Experience FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

Zia and Nikhil Sawhney

The Herb Lamb 1997, of which only 400 cases were produced, was described by Paul as a taste of history – a wine that shows the real style of Colgin – the classic Colgin! The freshness of the fruit and the texture of the wine complemented so well the confit chicken leg (melange of mushrooms for the vegetarians). Tychson Hill 2007 draws from the beautiful east facing slope parcel of 3.5 acres in St. Helena that Ann chanced upon in 1996. With acclaimed viticulturalist, David Abreu, it was revived and planted with Cabernet Sauvignon. With it came the original home that once belonged to Josephine Tychson, the first ever woman vintner in Napa Valley, who built Tychson Cellars in 1886 and sold it just before the prohibition in 1893. Ann thought Josephine was either very lucky or very smart. And added, “This wine is very dear to me because it has a great woman story and I feel very fortunate to be a part of this history.” This wine was served with smoked duck breast (saffron polenta for the vegetarians). As the next course of slow-cooked herbrubbed lamb rack (beurre blanc sundried tomato risotto for the vegetarians) was 32

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

Paul Roberts MS

Tarun Sawhney

served, the wine team at the Taj Mahal were already prepping the gems – the Cariad 2001 (that outbid Bordeaux 1st growths in auction) in magnum and the IX Estate 2006 (a Parker 100 point wine). Cariad is Welsh for love, and the wine truly reflects the love and passion put in to create this wine, the backbone of which is the Cabernet Sauvignon from old vines on the steep vineyards of the Madrona ranch. Round and plush and sometimes exotic, this wine is a favourite for Ann and Joe. IX estate is where the state-ofthe-art winery is – completed in 2002 in the northern part of the vineyard with stunning views on Lake Hennessey. The 125 acre steep east facing slope had never been planted before. 12 giant earth moving machines, a bit of dynamite and a year later, the cost added up to more than what was paid for the land! The Nr. 9 is very special for the Colgin couple (their wedding date was 09/09) as it signifies longevity – Ann hoped it for the wine, returns on the investment… and her marriage.

The Nr. 9 is very special for the Colgin couple

FINE Experience

If we put Colgin on the label, the wine has to be of a certain quality Chef Arun Sundararaj

IX Estate also yields a novelty for the region – a Syrah. Inspired by their love for northern Rhône wines, and Guigal in particular, Syrah was planted on some extra land on the estate. The wine, which was served with the Italian and French cheese selection, showed a good combination of earth and fruit. In conclusion, Ann reminded us that all in all, a total of about 35,000 bottles per year were entirely hand-crafted at Colgin – indeed tiny, but just right for the team to pay attention to the minutest detail. “If we put Colgin on the label, the wine has to be of a certain quality”.

As the well-orchestrated evening drew to its end, the sweet toothed got a very special treat – Château Y’quem 1988 from a double magnum (Colgin don’t indulge in a sweet wine, yet!) – leaving the vanilla panacotta forest berries meringue begging for attention. Everyone in the room that evening was grateful for the invite, everyone had had a good time, and everyone was honoured to be in the company of these great world class wines.

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

Colgin’s Wines with India’s Food

Exclusive

text: Ritu & Rajiv Singhal

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

FINE Experience

“The wine knowledge of the Indian wine-lover is pretty high. Their deep-rooted culture of appreciation is a great bellwether for the future. The world view of Indian cuisine as a ‘curry’ is changing – it is so diverse – the flavours and textures in some dishes find natural affinity to a wide array of wines.” Paul Roberts MS set the tone for an

The very elegant, structured and “suave”

Colgin and Indian Accent, chef Manish

masala quail stuffed Kashmiri Gucchi

exclusive

sensory

delights

from

Mehrotra’s award winning restaurant at

The Manor, New Delhi for a handful of wine-lovers who had been invited to join

the hosts. In the courtyard of The Manor on a starry winter evening mild by Delhi

standards, we toasted with the very toasty Champagne Bollinger R.D. 1999 from

magnum – a rare pick from the Sawhney cellars. As we took our seats at a very

regal table in the private dining room at The Manor, the amuse bouche of blue

cheese naan and corn shorba announced the special six-course menu that was to

accompany the visiting dignitaries – the Colgin wines!

Tychson Hill 2010 was served with the

(morels) with parmesan crisps. For the

vegetarians, the stuffing was makhana (fox nut). 2010 was a great vintage in the Napa

Valley – this “young” wine was in no hurry to be drunk! Heavy on earthy aromas and fruity flavours, the red-fruited wine accentuated the flavours of the Kashmiri

delicacy for a long and harmonious finish. The more complex and most “layered” Cariad 2001 (a Parker 99 pointer) was

next with baked potato and mutton chilla

(pancake) with bone marrow curry. For

the vegetarians, soya keema substituted mutton. A lingering merlot flavour was

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

identified in the wine, which showed dark fruit,

was the coolest of the vintages. The 2006 had an

balanced the spices rather well, even as Ann

was still showing very young (in perspective).

was earthy and broader on the palate. The wine was quick to warn that these were the aromatic spices, not chilli!

Joe rose to present the IX Estate or Number

Nine wines – a vertical of 2006, 2010 and 2012. It seems that Parker

tired of handing out perfect scores to the

2006 and 2010 (both

100), and left 2012 with 99! Intense dark fruits and a lot of structure the

wine

highlight that

predominantly

Paul described the finish, “it begins to fan out like the tail of a peacock – each and every element of the wine becomes vibrant and shows up”.

A quick round of the room suggested that “the 2012 was tight and

The Indian wine-lovers’ appreciation is a great bellwether for the future

closed, the 2006 was

really good but the 2010 won on balance with

the

long

finish”.

opening-up

flavours with The

textures of the food and the wine were

quite similar, and the

Cabernet Sauvignon. Paul explained further, “we

2010 stood out. Personally, the 2006 with the

vintages to show the evolution and ageing of the

A very aesthetically presented duck khurchan

wanted to present a comparative across three

butter chicken kulcha was greatly enjoyed.

wines, and more importantly how they showed

(aubergine bharta for the vegetarians) cornetto,

up in the first ten years of their life”.

herb malai (cream) with chilli chutney was

Elaborate mains were laid out – braised lamb

served with the very “Côte-Rôtie-like” IX Estate

millet risotto type preparation) with parmesan,

complex aromas. An agreeable pairing, if the

raita (yogurt) with signature Indian Accent rotis

A dessert platter warm doda burfi (fudge) treacle

shanks in mulberry juice, bajra kichadi (pearl

Syrah 2009 which showed sumptuous fruits and

black dairy dal (lentil), pomegranate and avocado

chutney was spared!

(breads) which were stuffed with apple wood smoked bacon, chili hoisin duck, wild mushroom

with truffle oil and even butter chicken with cheddar cheese!

initial rush of fruit as the spiciness took over and

tart with coconut and gur (jaggery) ice-cream –

rounded up this extra-ordinary feast. We were

hosted in the mecca of transformed innovative Indian cuisine – where the masters play with

The 2012 was a very juicy red with elements

international ingredients and still retain the

vintages on show. The 2010 showed structure

highly rated international wines were in good

of spice and probably the warmest of the three

Indian taste. All at the table concurred that

and underlying character with a hint of spice and

company with Indian food!

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

FINE Experience

IX ESTATE

2012 Colgin IX Estate

92p

Indian Accent New Delhi

2011 Colgin IX Estate

94p

2010 Colgin IX Estate

95p

Indian Accent New Delhi

2007 Colgin IX Estate

94p

2006 Colgin IX Estate

95p

Taj Mahal New Delhi Indian Accent New Delhi

2007 Colgin Herb Lamb Vineyard 92p 1999 Colgin Herb Lamb Vineyard

93p

1997 Colgin Herb Lamb Vineyard

95p

Taj Mahal New Delhi

1996 Colgin Herb Lamb Vineyard 94p 1994 Colgin Herb Lamb Vineyard 94p

IX ESTATE SYRAH

2005 Colgin IX Estate

94p

2002 Colgin IX Estate

97p

TYCHSON HILL

HERB LAMB

2011 Colgin Tychson Hill

95p

2010 Colgin Tychson Hill

94p

2009 Colgin IX Estate Syrah

94p

2008 Colgin IX Estate Syrah

92p

2005 Colgin IX Estate Syrah

94p

Indian Accent New Delhi

Taj Mahal New Delhi

Indian Accent New Delhi

2009 Colgin Tychson Hill

95p

2007 Colgin Tychson Hill

94p

Taj Mahal New Delhi

2004 Colgin Tychson Hill

97p

2001 Colgin Tychson Hill

94p

CARIAD

NV Champagne Billecart Salmon Brut 90p

2011 Colgin Cariad

94p

2010 Colgin Cariad

95p

2007 Colgin Cariad

93p

2005 Colgin Cariad

95p

2001 Colgin Cariad Taj Mahal New Delhi Indian Accent New Delhi

OTHER WINES

93p

Taj Mahal New Delhi

2011 Camille Giroud Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru 91p Taj Mahal New Delhi

1988 Chateau Yâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;quem

94p

Taj Mahal New Delhi

1999 Champagne Bollinger R.D.

94p

Indian Accent New Delhi

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

92p

Colgin IX Estate 2012 Colour: Medium ruby red

Nose: Floral and earthy, dark cherries and crushed rose petals Palate: Heavy, voluminous, generous, harmonious, dark fruit, nuances of oak, game and minerality

94p

Average price: € 413

Finish: Not long, still developing In a nutshell: Weighed by its elements Buy or not: Yes, if you can still find this tiny release Tasted: 2 times Decanting time: Serve straight from bottle Glass time: 1 hour When to drink: Now to 2027

Colour: Deep purple Nose: Intense, perfumed, herbaceous, black olives, blackberries Palate: Full-bodied, vivid, energetic, refined tannins, minerally intense Finish: Long, lingering, satin-like In a nutshell: A juicy grilled Wagyu beef with Mediterranean spices Decanting time: 10 hours

Food pairing: Duck khurchan cornetto

Glass time: 6 hours

Fake factor: None Inside information: A blend of 62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Merlot, 11% Cabernet Franc and 8% Petit Verdot. The flavours beam through the fruit to give the wine a perfect sense of place The vineyards on Pritchard Hill overlook Lake Hennessey.

Fake factor: None

Or try this: Château Latour 2012 Final verdict: Reflection of its terroir

Final verdict: A flirty aristocrat

Colgin IX Estate 2010 Colour: Deep, purple

Nose: Rich, spicy, blueberries, licorice, black truffles, complex Palate: Full-bodied, refined, concentrated, polished tannins, dark chocolate, ripe brambles Finish: Concentrated, broad, long-lasting In a nutshell: Full of promise Tasted: 2 times Decanting time: 12 hours Glass time: 6 hours When to drink: 2030–2040 Food pairing: Grilled sirloin with parmesan risotto Fake factor: None Inside information: The blend is 63% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 11% Cabernet Franc and 6% Petit Verdot. Final verdict: An uncut diamond

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When to drink: 2025–2035 Food pairing: Grilled Venison Fillet with Bramble Sauce Inside information: 66% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot

95p

Colgin IX Estate 2011

94p

Colgin IX Estate 2007 Colour: Deep, dark ruby

Nose: Complex, lovely toastiness, roasted coffee, hint of smoky meat Palate: Full-bodied, elegant, refined tannins, satiny texture, well-integrated Finish: Long, refined and tasty In a nutshell: Power and elegance Decanting time: 6 hours Glass time: 3 hours When to drink: 2020–2030 Food pairing: Sauteed Deer Fillet with Creamy Morels Fake factor: None Inside information: 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 21% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, 4% Petit Verdot Final verdict: Thrill of exuberance

FINE Experience

95p

Colgin IX Estate 2006 Colour: Deep, dark ruby

Nose: Opulent, charming, ripe black fruits, gently spicy, cedary, violets Palate: Full-bodied, round tannins, satiny texture, multilayered, dark chocolate, blackberries, gentle toastiness Finish: Focused, pure and lingering In a nutshell: Pure charmer

94p

Colour: Deep, dark ruby Nose: Overt, roasted, smoky, licorice, spices, black fruits Palate: Full-bodied, medium tannins, concentrated, round, silky texture, toastiness, cassis, spicy Finish: Long, smooth, lingering

Tasted: 4 times

In a nutshell: Talk of terroir

Decanting time: 8 hours

Decanting time: 5 hours

Glass time: 3 hours

When to drink: 2025–2035 Food Pairing: Grilled duck with creamy truffle risotto Fake factor: None

Colgin IX Estate 2005

When to drink: 2020–2030 Food pairing: Grilled Entrecôte with Fried Haricot Verts and Classic Red Wine Sauce Fake factor: None

Inside information: The blend is 66% Cabernet Sauvignon, 21% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Petit Verdot. Produced only 1,500 cases.

Inside information: 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 21% Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot in balance

Final Verdict: An epitome of Colgin Cellars

Final verdict: The masculine side of Colgin wines

95p 97p

Colgin IX Estate 2002 Colour: Deep, dark ruby

Nose: Multi-layered, evolving, smoky, Mediterranean herbs, forest floor, black fruits Palate: Full-bodied, supple, harmonious, refined, cassis, gently spicy Finish: Round, smooth, lingering In a nutshell: Divine Decanting time: 4 hours Glass time: 3 hours When to drink: 2018–2028 Food pairing: Grilled Sirloin with Parmesan Risotto Fake factor: None

Colgin Tychson Hill Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 Average price: € 350 Colour: Deep purple

Nose: Intense, loads of fresh black fruits, touch of herbs, gentle spiciness, floral tones Palate: Full-bodied, silky texture, energetic, vivid acidity, refined, firm Finish: Focused, round and vivid In a nutshell: Sensual Napa cab Decanting time: 8 hours Glass time: 3 hours When to drink: 2020–2030 Food pairing: Grilled Rack of Lamb with Roasted Garlic Potatoes Fake factor: None

Inside information: 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Merlot, 9% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot

Inside information: The vineyard was originally planted in 1881 by Josephine Tychson, the first female vintner in the Napa Valley.

Final verdict: This wine reveals the potential of IX Estate

Final verdict: Seductive and charming

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

94p

Colgin Tychson Hill Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Colour: Deep, purple

Nose: Rich, complex, cassis, toasty, violets Palate: Full-bodied, intense, sweet tannins, rich in black fruit, cedar, spices Finish: Pure and powerful In a nutshell: A noble wine Tasted: 4 times

95p

Colour: Deep purple

Nose: Intense, perfumed, smoky, cassis, blackberry Palate: Full-bodied, velvety tannins, vivid, rich yet elegant black fruit, spices Finish: Long, lingering and concentrated In a nutshell: Liquid elegance

Decanting time: 12 hours

Decanting time: 6 hours

Glass time: 3 hours

When to drink: 2025–2035 Food Pairing: Tournedos Rossini Fake factor: None Inside information: The blend is 95% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot. Final Verdict: Grand Napa aristocrat

94p

Colgin Tychson Hill Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 Colour: Deep, ruby red

Nose: Intense, seductive, chocolate, cherry, vanilla, tobacco, spices Palate: Full-bodied, rich, round tannins, smooth texture, focused

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

Colgin Tychson Hill Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2009

When to drink: 2020–2030 Food Pairing: Herb-crusted Rack of Lamb with Tomato Feta Couscous Fake factor: None Inside information: Released only 250 cases Final Verdict: Tychson Hill at its purest.

97p

Colgin Tychson Hill Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 Colour: Deep purple

Nose: Open, intense, cassis, cedar, new oak, spicy

Finish: Round, lingering, long

Palate: Full-bodied, velvety texture, ripe tannins, black currants, cedar

In a nutshell: Smooth and refined

Finish: Long, subtle and lingering

Tasted: 4 times

In a nutshell: Total charmer

Decanting time: 5 hours

Glass time: 3 hours

When to drink: 2025–2030

When to drink: 2018–2028

Food Pairing: Grilled Duck Breast with Truffled Polenta and Blackcurrant Sauce

Food pairing: Roasted Elk with Wild Mushrooms and Cipollini Onions

Fake factor: None

Inside information: The production was 221 cases.

Inside information: 168 cases were produced

Final Verdict: Harmony and balance

Final verdict: Velvet in glass

FINE Experience

94p

Colgin Tychson Hill Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2001

94p

Colgin Cariad 2011

Colour: Deep, ruby red

Colour: Deep purple

Nose: Evolved, complex, cassis, cigar box, pencil shavings, leather

Nose: Profound, spicy, smoky, black and red fruits, black olives, licorice

Palate: Full-bodied, intense, refined tannins, spicy, black currants

Palate: Firm, full-bodied, mineral bite, violets, ripe black and red berries

Finish: Long, persistent and focused

Finish: Long, vibrant and spicy

In a nutshell: Wine with good tension

In a nutshell: Dense and spicy

Decanting time: 4 hours

Decanting time: 10 hours

Glass time: 3 hours

When to drink: Now–2025

When to drink: 2020–2025

Food pairing: Braised Beef in Red Wine and Mushrooms

Food pairing: Grilled Entrecôte with Panfried Green Beans

Fake factor: None

Inside information: 190 cases were produced

Inside information: 49% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 10% Petit Verdot, 6% Cabernet Franc

Final verdict: Pure expression of Napa Cabernet

Final verdict: Great energy and vibes

95p

Colgin Cariad 2010 Colour: Deep purple

Nose: Bit reserved, refined, focused, aromatic, black fruits, spicy Palate: Full-bodied, rich, roasted, blackberries and raspberries, mineral bite, violets Finish: Concentrated, intense and very stylish In a nutshell: Wine with focus and depth Decanting time: 12 hours Glass time: 3 hours When to drink: 2025–2030 Food pairing: Grilled Wild Boar Ribs with Grilled Peppers Fake factor: None Inside information: 48% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot, 10% Petit Verdot, 14% Cabernet Franc Final verdict: A big wine with the soul of a poet

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

93p

Colgin Cariad 2007

95p

Colgin Cariad 2005

Colour: Deep, ruby red

Nose: Open, floral, spicy, licorice, cassis

Nose: Perfumed, red and black fruits, fireplace, smoky minerality

Palate: Full-bodied, firm tannins, spicy, warming, concentrated Finish: Firm, intense and long In a nutshell: Warm and spicy Decanting time: 6 hours

Palate: Full-bodied, supple, vivid acidity, drying tannins, violets, spices Finish: Long, concentrated and mineral In a nutshell: Vibrant and firm Decanting time: 6 hours

Glass time: 3 hours When to drink: 2020–2030 Food pairing: Pan-Seared Rib Eye with Grilled Porcini

Food pairing: Tournedos Rossini

Fake factor: None

Inside information: 52% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Franc, 8% Petit Verdot

Inside information: 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 11% Cabernet Franc, 9% Petit Verdot

Final verdict: A harmony of blending

Final verdict: A soul of fire

93p

Colgin Cariad 2001 Colour: Deep, ruby red

Nose: Complex, layered, smoke, cedar, slate, black and red fruits Palate: Full-bodied, spicy, supple, perfumed, smoky wood, ripe brambles, espresso Finish: Long, round and spicy In a nutshell: Broad and flavourful Tasted: 2 times Decanting time: 4 hours Glass time: 2 hours When to drink: Now–2022 Food Pairing: Beef Wellington Fake factor: None Inside information: The blend is 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc and 7% Petit Verdot. Final Verdict: Aged with grace

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

Glass time: 3 hours When to drink: 2022–2028

92p

Colgin Herb Lamb Vineyard 2007

Colour: Deep, ruby

Nose: Rich, opulent, dark chocolate, cassis Palate: Full-bodied, polished tannins, ripe black currants, warming Finish: Broad, high alcohol, volaptuous In a nutshell: Overwhelming Tasted: 4 times Decanting time: 10 hours Glass time: 3 hours When to drink: 2025–2035 Food Pairing: Beef Coeur de Filet with smooth roasted porcini sauce and creamed garlic potatos Fake factor: None Inside information: The last vintage of Colgin Herb Lamb Vineyard. The production was 178 cases. Final Verdict: A big and jammy Napa Cab

Colgin Herb Lamb Vineyard 1997

Colour: Ruby red

Nose: Fresh, intense, pure Palate: Well structured, ripe, lovely texture, high acidity, roasted coffee, herbs, earthy

Colgin Herb Lamb Vineyard 1999

93p

Colour: Deep ruby

Nose: Complex, perfumed, floral, cigar box, blackberries, blueberries, cassis Palate: Full-bodied, chunky tannins, vivid, ripe black fruits, toasty

Finish: Long and long In a nutshell: Mammoth Buy or not: Yes, if you can still find this tiny release Tasted: 2 times Decanting time: Serve straight from the bottle Glass time: 1 hour

Finish: Extensive, smooth and harmonious In a nutshell: Rich and round Decanting time: 2 hours

When to drink: Now to 2027 Food Pairing: Confir chicken leg, purple potato, gnocchi, slow cooked yellow tomatoes

Glass time: 2 hours When to drink: 2020–2025 Food Pairing: Grilled Lamb Fillet with Minty Red Wine Sauce and Grilled Potatoes Fake factor: None Inside information: Aged for 26 months in 100% new Taransaud oak. 200 cases were produced.

Fake factor: None Inside information: Ann Colgin entered into contract with Jennifer and Herb Lamb to get the top vine rows of their 7.4 acre vineyard in St. Helena. This wine catapulted Ann Colgin to fame as one of the region’s top producers. Or try this: Penfolds Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon 1997 Final Verdict: Rare pleasure

Final Verdict: Rich and tasty Napa Cab

94p

FINE Experience

95p

Colgin Herb Lamb Vineyard 1996

Colour: Deep, cherry red

Nose: Opulent, seductive, complex, leather, coffee, cedar, forest floor, blueberry Palate: Full-bodied, round tannins, vigor fruity, opulent, toasty, roasted coffee, mint Finish: Long, lingering and tempting In a nutshell: Long, lingering and tempting

94p

Colgin Herb Lamb Vineyard 1994

Colour: Deep cherry red

Nose: Evolved, ripe, refined, earthy, toasty, spicy, black currants, dark chocolate, roasted coffee

Tasted: 6 times

Palate: Full-bodied, rich, dense, velvety tannins, vivid acidity, chocolatey

Decanting time: 2 hours

Finish: Long, complex and bit tight

Glass time: 2 hours

In a nutshell: A serious wine

When to drink: 2020–2025

Decanting time: 1.5 hours

Food Pairing: Braised beef with Mushroom Marsala Sauce

Glass time: 2 hours When to drink: Now–2022

Fake factor: None

Food pairing: Assortment of Hard Cheeses

Inside information: Total production is 250 cases. The wine was aged 100% new Taransaud oak for 18 months.

Fake factor: None

Final Verdict: A wine from the Herb Lamb glory period

Inside information: 500 cases were produced. Final verdict: Always a pleasure to have

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

94p

Colgin IX Estate Syrah 2009 Colour: Deep, purple

Nose: Intense, rich, smoky, seductive, toasty, blueberries, perfumed, violets, white pepper

Colour: Deep ruby to purple Nose: Full-bodied, silky tannins, fragrant flavours, harmonious, gentle spiciness

Finish: Long, lingering and seductive

Palate: Full-bodied, silky tannins, fragrant falvours, harmonious, gentle spiciness

Tasted: 2 times Decanting time: 4 hours Glass time: 3 hours When to drink: 2020–2030 Food Pairing: Braised deer fillet with roasted beetroots and herbs Fake factor: None Inside information: Total production was 400 cases. Aged 19 months in barrels. Final Verdict: The best new world syrah that challenges the great Hermitages and Côte-Rôties.

94p

Colgin IX Estate Syrah 2005 Colour: Deep, ruby red

Nose: Rich, smoky, black fruits, blackberry, bacon, pepper, dark chocolate Palate: Full-bodied, elegant, vivid acidity, ripe fruit, refined tannins Finish: Long, spicy and lingering In a nutshell: Complete syrah seduction Tasted: 2 times Decanting time: 3 hours Glass time: 2 hours When to drink: 2020–2025 Food Pairing: Roasted spicy vension sausages Fake factor: None Inside information: Total production was 400 cases. Aged 17 months in barrels. Final verdict: A beefy wine

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

Colgin IX Estate Syrah 2008

Palate: Full-bodied, supple tannins, vivid fruit, lively acidity, floral, spicy, toasty In a nutshell: A benchmark syrah

92p

Finish: Delicate, lingering, spicy In a nutshell: Charmingly fragrant Decanting time: 4 hours Glass time: 3 hours When to drink: 2020–2030 Food pairing: Grilled Wild Boar Chops with Bacon and Mushrooms Fake factor: None Inside information: Aged 19 months in barrels. 300 cases were produced. Final verdict: Feminine-style syrah

90p

Champagne Billecart Salmon Brut NV

Colour: Medium bright straw colour

Chateau Y’quem 1988

Colour: Intense bright golden Nose: Rich, elegant, fragrant, honey, vanilla

Nose: Open, very very fresh, youthful

Palate: Concentrated, luscious, firm acidity, marmalade, orange peel

Palate: Balanced acidity, buttery, hay, melon, biscuity

Finish: Lingering, toasty, balance

Finish: Vibrant

In a nutshell: Charming and captivating

In a nutshell: Charm

Buy or not: Yes, if a large format comes by

Buy or not: Yes

Tasted: 11 times

When to drink: Anytime now

Decanting time: 2.5 hours

Food pairing: Tender coconut and watermelon marmalade

Glass time: 2 hours

Fake factor: None Inside information: A classic blend of the three champagne grapes – Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, Chardonnay. Established in 1818, it is one of the few houses still owned by the original family. Francois and Antoine RollandBillecart represent the 6th generation and stand testimony to the oath “Give priority to quality, strive for excellence”, which is imbibed in the classic French garden at the family estate. Or try this: Do you need to? Final verdict: Furthering tradition

91p

Camille Giroud CortonCharlemagne Grand Cru 2011 Colour: Light yellow

Nose: Rich, fresh, oaky Palate: Full bodied, balanced acidity, vanilla and pears

When to drink: Just before its 30th birthday, which some connoisseurs may believe is a sacrilege Food Pairing: Just by itself Fake factor: A few odd ones Inside information: 1988 was a classic vintage. A warm but wet spring opened up to a sunny summer and perfect conditions. Since the harvest only began in mid-October the grapes could develop completely and reach maturity. Or try this: Chateau Y’quem 1990 Final Verdict: A regal masterpiece

93p

Champagne Bollinger R.D. 1999

Colour: Deep golden yellow

Nose: A burst of flavours. Extremely fresh. Citrus, a bit tight.

Finish: Long and vibrant

Palate: Finely balanced with ripe apples and rich apricots

In a nutshell: Sophisticated

Finish: Not long, still developing

Buy or not: Yes

In a nutshell: Power that will emerge even stronger

Decanting time: 30 mins Glass time: 1 hour When to drink: Now to 2021 Food pairing: Dill crusted scallops and cauliflower cream

FINE Experience

94p

Buy or not: Don’t miss it, specially in magnum When to drink: Now till you can resist Food Pairing: Blue cheese naan

Fake factor: None

Inside information: This Burgundy negociant was acquired by Ann and Joe in a moment of weakness in 2001. Winemaker/ technical director David Croix is in charge. Only 4 barrels of this Grand Cru wine are produced a year.

Inside information: A blend of 63% Pinot Noir and 37% Chardonnay. Récemment Dégorgé or recently disgorged was created in 1961 to give champagne lovers a taste of very long ageing on lees, almost three times the appellation requirement.

Or try this: J.-F. Coche-Dury, Meursault 2011

Or try this: Pol Roger Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill 1999

Final verdict: Don’t put away for too long

Final Verdict: Madame Bollinger’s vision for James Bond 007

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

Provocative style. Unparalleled performance. The 101 Sport Yacht. Sunseeker International | +44 (0)1202 381 111

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Napa vintages of

victories 48

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

FINE Vintage

Valley 2010 & 2011 Text: Juha Lihtonen Photos: Pekka Nuikki

Napa Valley wine producers are not used to worrying about sufficient ripening of their grapes. However, the growing seasons of 2010 and 2011 gave them cause to do so. The weather conditions of the vintages reminded the wine producers of the conditions with which their colleagues in Bordeaux struggle from one year to the next. The rainy, cloudy and chilly weather that characterized the growing periods forced the Napa producers to do their utmost to help the grapes to ripen. Despite the challenging weather conditions, one of the vintages turned out to be highly esteemed, while the other is maligned as one of the poorest from this area. FINE decided to weigh up the vintages and collected the most esteemed red wines and wine producers of the Napa Valley. Together, we evaluated the vintages and their best wines.

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group of wine experts sits in Meadowood’s Wine Library. Among the experts, there are the most distinguished wine producers of the valley. They are excited as they await the success of their wines in the blind tasting that is soon to begin. On the side table are several dozens of wine bottles wrapped in foil, waiting to be evaluated. A lively discussion is taking place in the room about the quality of the vintages. The wine producers are recounting their experiences of growing seasons. On the basis of their comments, the vintage quality assessments by the American wine media – specifically Wine Advocate and Wine Spectator – generate astonishment! Wine Advocate classified the quality of the 2011 vintage as 78 points, while the 2010 got 95 points. Wine Spectator is a little more generous, giving the 2011 vintage 86 points with the 2010 getting 96 points. Good reason to avoid the wines of the 2011 vintage. In terms of the tasting, no great success in comparisons can be predicted either for the wines of the vintage. However, as one listens to the comments of the wine producers, an impression arises that 2011 wasn’t at all as poor as what the assessments may lead one to understand – even if the wine producers conclude that 2010 was more favourable for the wine producer. In 2011, Mother Nature put the ability and nerve of the wine producers to the true test.

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FINE Vintage

The virtue of patience Growing conditions in 2010 and 2011 were largely similar, except for the fall. In both years, the growing season of the vines was delayed because of the cool and rainy weather. The summer of 2010, and particularly July, was exceptionally cold â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the second coldest in fifty years, while the summer of 2011 was chilly but also rainy. In 2011, the rainfall in June was a third higher than the average. The chilly weather of the summer and the heavy rains slowed down the ripening of the grapes in both years and added to the problems of mould at the vineyards. This forced producers to thin out the foliage of the vines to keep the bunches as dry as possible and exposed to sunlight and heat. But the thinning out of the foliage done in the summer of 2010 caused concern for the producers in August and September when the rain and clouds were chased away by the parching sun of California and the grapes came under the risk of being scorched. The radical change in weather continued in October when the vineyards were subjected to the fall storms that buffeted the area, as a result of which the producers feared that the crop would get diluted. With the storms, the weather conditions deteriorated quickly and the night-time temperatures fell below freezing. The producers had to time the moment of the harvest with great care. There were no comparable thrillers in 2011. The fall didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t bring any change from the summer. The chilly weather, extensive cloudiness and rains that had troubled the Napa Valley continued long into the fall. The crop was further stressed by heavy storms in mid-October. However, patient producers were rewarded as Mother Nature offered relief after the long ordeal. Sunny, dry and warm weather spread into the Napa Valley before end-October and rescued the crop. In the end, the yield was only ten percent smaller than in 2010. The quality of the crop was generally good, albeit different from normal because the sugar levels of the grapes were lower as a result of the long chilly growing season. Despite the lower sugar levels, the grapes attained their ideal physiological ripeness. As a result, the wines are delicate and very aromatic. The phenomenon is rare in the Napa Valley.

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The results The wines of the two vintages, 2010 and 2011, were assessed separately and in two rounds in two different panels. The first assessment was done by the FINE experts and the second together with the wine producers. The quality of the wines was ranked on the basis of the average scores of the assessments. In the assessment, a clear difference in character became apparent between the wines of the vintages and this was also reflected in the scores. The wines of 2010 are concentrated and generally closed. The wines of 2011, on the other hand, are flirtily nuanced and energetic. A lively acidity unites the wines of both vintages. In 2010, the sugar content of the grapes was higher and resulted in full-bodied wines. In character, these wines represent “classic Napa Valley” – rich and full-bodied, yet refined, needing bottle ageing to open up. The wines of the 2011 vintage, on the other hand, are delicate in terms of aromas, herbaceous and lighter than traditional Napa – more reminiscent of the Bordeaux wines of mature years. Both wines benefit significantly from cellaring. The wines of 2010 require at least another ten years of bottle ageing to peak. The wines of 2011 also improve considerably through cellaring and reach ideal enjoyability in five to ten years. However, the 2011s can also be already enjoyed now (if decanted at least ten hours in advance). Even though in these assessments the best wine was the 2010 Screaming Eagle (95.5 points), the differences in points between the vintages were even. The best wine of 2011, Bryant Family Vineyard, was only half a point behind the 2010 Screaming Eagle. When looking at the Top 20 lists of both vintages and the average scores of the wines, the wines of 2011 come out in front of 2010 by only 0.57 points. The Top 20 wines of 2011 are all within a range of 3.0 points, whereas the range for the wines of 2010 was a bit more – 4.9 points.

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FINE Vintage

The results of the assessment were in conflict with the quality of the 2011 vintage that is presented in the wine media. With regard to the results, the disparity is of course also explained by the fact that we were evaluating the best wines of the top producers â&#x20AC;&#x201C; those who have the skills and terroir to produce the great wines even in poorer years! Despite this, the twenty-point difference presented by Wine Advocate between the qualities of the vintages forces one to consider the relevance and interpretability of vintage charts. It is beyond any doubt that the 2011 vintage was an extreme vintage in the Napa Valley and in terms of weather conditions it can be considered to be one of the worst growing seasons for decades. In this respect, the scores shown in the vintage charts are justified. However, the problem with vintage charts is how they are interpreted. The consumer infers the average quality of the wines of the vintage and doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t appreciate that they describe the quality of the conditions of the growing season. And, many excellent wines from difficult vintages are left unbought. In the assessment, the Napa Valley wines of 2011 did better than the wines of 2010. 2011 was difficult in terms of weather conditions, and put the producers on the spot as it required extreme alertness and all possible attention from them. This can be sensed in wines of 2011, which sound like a perfectly tuned instrument and one can feel all the energy that the producers have had to devote in order to create the best possible wines. Two challenging successive vintages in the Napa Valley were a great trial for the wine producers â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and they passed victoriously. The challenges faced in the growing season of 2010 allowed a good rehearsal to the producers for 2011. Without the challenging weather conditions in 2010, and the effort to overcome them, the producers would have perhaps not been ready for the challenges that were unfolded by 2011. Eventually, the Napa wine producers emerged as winners from both of the vintages.

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Vintage Reports

Allison Tauziet Winemaker, Colgin Cellars

Marc Gagnon

The growing season was a relatively long, yet cool. At our vineyard sites, the canopies were moderate to higher vigour, which was a blessing in a cooler year as it ensured that we had the right size “engine” to ripen the fruit. A healthier canopy also contributed a very nice level of acidity. 2010 saw moderate crop levels. The fruit contained extraordinary amounts of flavour and colour, which were all preserved beautifully upto the moment of picking – thanks to the cooler October. The extraction formed easily. Our focus was to preserve those fresh flavours, which spanned the full spectrum, as they were just so gorgeous to work with. The fruit achieved those intense dark fruit flavours we love from Napa Valley, but terroir driven earth and rocky notes remained a driving part of the personality in the wines. I love this vintage!

Bud-break began in the last week of March at Bryant. It was about 2-3 weeks later than an average year. Flowering and fruit set followed similarly postponed 2-3 weeks as the weather remained cool through the spring and into the heart of the growing season. Only a few heat spikes were experienced in August and September. The berries were small in size and reached an optimal ripeness steadily. At the estate, all blocks were picked within the third week of October. The non-estate Bettina blocks began to be picked on the first of October through the end of the third week of October. Overall, the long cool growing season produced wines of intense density along a brooding darker fruit and savoury spectrum, while beautifully expressing varietal nuance and complexity.

2011

2010

The weather in the growing season was quite far outside the norm. It was a short, yet cool growing season, which felt a lot more aligned with what you would experience in Bordeaux, than in Napa Valley. That being said, I love what the season taught us about our vineyard sites. Thanks to hillsides rocky soils, we had a great drainage on vineyards, which gave us an advantage in terms of fruit quality. The crops were quite light, so with a short growing season, we were still able to ripen our fruit fully. The 2011 wines on a whole have fabulous freshness and acidity. They are less fruit forward than a typical Napa Valley vintage, but they make up for it with their earth, savoury and succulent notes. They are less full-bodied than on average years, but they are bursting with elegance and sophistication. This vintage is very close to my heart as I feel it’s the most challenging one that really set apart the greatest terroir. I’m very proud to craft the wines from the IX Estate, Tychson Hill and for Cariad, Madrona Ranch and Thorevilos.

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Winemaker, Bryant Family Vineyard

2010

Similar to the previous year, this vintage had a late bud-break in the last week of March. Onset of bloom pushed back to the end of May and, due to varying cool and hot weather, heavy shatter occurred – reducing yields between 25-35%. Temperatures during the growing season were at par with the preceding 2009 and 2010 vintages. With heavy shatter and another cool year expected to unfold, cluster and canopy management was of utmost importance to maximize photosynthesis and produce optimal quality in the fruit. Patience and intense vineyard management was rewarded as we picked our estate over two weeks: October 17th to November 2nd. The expressions of the different terroirs of our non-estate vineyards were intensified in 2011, with harvest starting in the warmer sites as early as October 3rd, and the cooler sites as late as November 3rd. The wines of 2011 show an elegance and grace that harks back to earlier years of Napa Valley; wines that I originally fell in love with and that drew me to this region. I love the remarkable freshness and enhanced savoury aspects that the 2011s bring in spades and will carry them through their undeniably long lives.

FINE Vintage

Justin Dragoo General Manager, Gargiulo Vineyards

2010

A cooler vintage compared to the previous ones – 2007-09. Unusual rains mixed with heat spikes had our vineyard crews scrambling throughout the growing season. We experienced nearly four inches of rain in October. Our concerns mounted as harvest approached, but after the grapes were harvested and in the cellar, it was clear that this will be an outstanding vintage. The cooler than normal vintage led to a freshness in the wines that has not been seen in years, and despite the prior worries, there were no green or under-ripe flavours detected in any varietal. The wines of this vintage continue to be among our favourite wines produced from the estate.

2011

If we thought 2010 was a cool vintage with unusual rains … the 2011 came along – it was unusually cool and rainy at level not seen in decades, and provided a challenge for most winemakers in the valley. Torrential rains in March led to multiple issues at fruit set and to maintain the high standards adopted for quality throughout Napa Valley. The grapes were carefully selected at harvest and on the sorting table, which led to a dramatic drop in the quantity of wines produced in 2011. Initially vintners detected herbal and green flavours in the wines, but at our estate, this early-harvest style has led to complex tobacco and coffee flavours in our reds. The higher acidity of the vintage should lead to an unusually long cellar life – they are just starting to develop what will be a couple decades of slow evolution.

Cory Empting Winemaker, Harlan Estate & BOND

2010

The challenge was all about timing – timing of crop removal, leafing and picking. We knew it was going to be a cool year and that we had a short runway to ripen fruit. We had to thin earlier than normal to ensure the development of fine tannins. We also opened canopies more than normal. This is always a risky manoeuvre in our climate where the sun can play a powerful role. But in the end, nature rewarded us for this gamble. Extraction needed to be moderated in order to find the right balance. The wines are muscular with layer upon layer of fruit. But what makes these wines exciting is the amount of acidity. It matches up to the hedonic density of the wines providing life on the palate and freshness in the nose. These wines are meant for the long haul and I believe they may outlive us all.

2011

The greatest challenge was to stay mentally strong. We had very low yields and had to take steps to remove even more crop in order to tighten the maturity window. Throughout the season, nature was clearly in the driver seat. I say it was a year about faith in place. So many times we proclaim the greatness of site in Napa, but how many times are we truly tested? There were so many times that we’re mere spectators to the whims of nature and yet the great sites prevailed. Aromatically, these wines have fruit, minerality and freshness that seems almost floral. They have all of the detail that we normally see in a wine that is at least 10 years old without showing any other signs of age. These wines aren’t about structure and muscle – they are about grace and charm at the highest level. I believe that 2011 produced some of the greatest wines we’ve ever made from certain sites, but only time will tell.

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

1 - 25

The Best Cabernets of Napa Valley 2010

Ranking

Points

95.5

94.9

94.8

94.5

94.4

94.3

93.5

93.4

93.2

92.7

92.6

92.3

91.7

91.5

91.2

91.0

90.7

90.6

90.3

90.0

89.0

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

FINE Vintage

TOP 10 2010

95.5p

Screaming Eagle 2010

Average Price € 3,064 Colour Deep, purple to ruby Nose Refined, intense, ripe black currants, violets, licorice, dark chocolate, lovely toastiness, hints of mint Palate Full-bodied yet delicate, satiny tannins, ripe intense black fruit, great concentration Finish Multi-layered, harmonious and polished In a Nutshell Wine of subtleties Buy or Not Start queuing for the Screaming Eagle mailing list. If you are lucky to get there, the new vintages are “bargains”. Decanting Time 8 hours Glass Time 3 hours When to Drink 2025-2040 Food Pairing Grilled Venison Fillet with Red Wine Chocolate Sauce Fake Factor Very low risk, but like with all wines priced like this one, there is always a risk of counterfeits

95.0p

Colgin IX Estate 2010

Average Price € 507 Colour Deep purple Nose Rich, spicy, blueberries, licorice, black truffles, complex Palate Full-bodied, refined, concentrated, polished tannins, dark chocolate, ripe brambles Finish Concentrated, broad, longlasting In a Nutshell Full of promise Buy or Not Yes Decanting Time 12 hours Glass Time 6 hours When to Drink 2030-2040 Food Pairing Grilled Sirloin with Parmesan Risotto Fake Factor None Inside 63% Cabernet Sauvignon, Information 20% Merlot, 11% Cabernet Franc and 6% Petit Verdot Or Try This Château La Mission HautBrion 2010 Final Verdict The Queen of the Hill

Inside 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, Information 16% Merlot and 9% Cabernet Franc. 610 cases were produced. Or Try This Pétrus 2010 Final Verdict A charming and gentle giant

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94.8p

Relic Artefact Cabernet Sauvignon 2010

Average Price € 82

Colour Deep purple

Nose Intense, ripe black fruit, blueberries, blackberries, dark chocolate, smoky, spicy

94.5p

Colgin Cariad 2010

Average Price € 567 Colour Deep purple Nose Bit reserved, refined, focused, aromatic, black fruits, spicy Palate Full-bodied, rich, roasted, blackberries and raspberries, mineral bite, violets

Palate Full-bodied, rich velvety tannins, round, ripe black fruit, lovely spiciness, round, rich and caressing

Finish Concentrated, intense and very stylish In a Nutshell Wine with focus and depth

Finish Opulent and harmonious

Buy or Not Yes, if you want to taste one of the most esteemed Napa reds

In a Nutshell Absolutely!! A magnificent price-quality ratio. Buy or Not Yes

Decanting Time 12 hours

Decanting Time 3 hours

Glass Time 3 hours

Glass Time 1.5 hours

When to Drink 2025-2030

When to Drink Now-2022

Food Pairing Grilled Wild Boar Ribs with Grilled Peppers

Food Pairing Roasted Beef Fillet with Grilled Onions and Mushrooms

Fake Factor None Inside 48% Cabernet Sauvignon, Information 28% Merlot, 10% Petit Verdot and 14% Cabernet Franc.

Fake Factor None Inside 100% Cabernet Information Sauvignon from a 3-acre vineyard plot located in western hills of Oakville

Or Try This Guigal Hermitage Ex-Voto 2009

Or Try This Alvaro Palacio Finca Dofi 2009

Final Verdict A big wine with soul of poet

Final Verdict A wine with a humble soul

94.4p

Realm Cellars Beckstoffer Dr Crane Vineyard 2010

Average Price € 143

Colour Deep purple Nose Opulent, loads of black fruit, blueberries, blackberries, cassis, touch of burnt wood Palate Full-bodied, broad and rich, weighty texture, supple tannins Finish Round, rich and generous In a Nutshell Mouth-filling and tempting Buy or Not Yes, this is among the best price-quality wines tasted Decanting Time 6 hours Glass Time 3 hours When to Drink Now-2025 Food Pairing Bistecca Alla Fiorentina Fake Factor None Inside Information Only 445 cases produced Or Try This Monteverro 2009 Final Verdict A wine with big and soft voice

94.3p

Blankiet Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Paradise Hills Vineyard 2010

Average Price € 220

Colour Deep purple Nose Refined, intense, perfumey, violets, licorice, blackcurrants, toasty, a fine touch of cedar Palate Full-bodied, satiny tannins, vivid acidity, intense cassis fruit, refined toastiness, broad Finish Extremely fine, concentrated and persistent In a Nutshell Like a tailor-made Cashmere suit Buy or Not Yes, this wine will not let you down Decanting Time 8 hours Glass Time 3 hours When to Drink 2025-2035 Food Pairing Smoked Venison Fillet with Roasted Beetroot Fake Factor None Inside 84.1% Cabernet Information Sauvignon, 14.4% Merlot, 1% Cabernet Franc and 0.5% Petit Verdot Or Try This Château de Valandraud 2010 Final Verdict Very seductive

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Average Price € 394

Colour Deep purple Nose Rich, complex, cassis, toasty, violets

Palate Full-bodied, intense, sweet tannins, rich in black fruit, cedar, spices Finish Pure and powerful

Buy or Not Yes, by the case loads – just look at the price! Decanting Time 6 hours

Glass Time 3 hours When to Drink 2025-2035

Glass Time 3 hours When to Drink Now-2025

Food Pairing Tournedos Rossini Fake Factor None

Food Pairing Bavette Steak with Beurre Rouge & Roasted Potatoes

Inside 95% Cabernet Sauvignon, Information 3% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot

Fake Factor None Inside This 100% Cabernet Information Sauvignon is from a 40 acre vineyard located in the heart of Oakville

Or Try This Château Cos d’Estournel 2009 Final Verdict Grand Napa aristocrat

Average Price € 587

Colour Deep, ruby to purple Nose Complex, tempting, intense blackcurrant and blueberry aromas, new oak, toasty Palate Full-bodied, mouthfilling, very refined tannins, intense black fruit, dark chocolate, toasty Finish Profound, refined and lingering In a Nutshell Solid and flawless Buy or Not Yes, it’s like putting money in the bank Decanting Time 12 hours Glass Time 4 hours When to Drink 2020-2040 Food Pairing Elk Tournedos with Blueberry Butter Sauce and Duchess Potatoes with Truffles Fake Factor None Inside A 100% Cabernet Information Sauvignon from a 13acre vineyard on the top of Pritchard Hill Or Try This Château Haut-Brion 2005

Nose Intense, seductive, toasty, roasted coffee, cassis, dark chocolate

Finish Long, round and seductive

Decanting Time 12 hours

Colour Deep purple

In a Nutshell Harmonious and opulent

Buy or Not Yes, it’s a bargain

Bryant Family Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2010

Average Price € 103

Palate Full-bodied, vivid, refined tannins, round, rich black fruit, smoky, toasty

In a Nutshell A noble wine

93.4p

Gargiulo Vineyards Money Road Ranch 2010

93.5p

FINE Vintage

Colgin Tychson Hill Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2010

93.5p

Or Try This Château Troplong-Mondot 2003 Final Verdict Smooth as velvet

93.2p

Gargiulo Vineyards G Major 7 2010

Average Price € 206

Colour Deep purple Nose Rich, spicy, toasty, roasted coffee, cassis, dark chocolate, hints of mint Palate Full-bodied, intense black fruit, firm refined tannic structure, toasty spiciness Finish Concentrated, intense and fleshy In a Nutshell Like jazz in the mouth Buy or Not Yes, charming Decanting Time 8 hours Glass Time 3 hours When to Drink 2018-2028 Food Pairing Herb-crusted Rack of Lamb with Tomatoes and Feta Fake Factor None Inside 85% Cabernet Information Sauvignon, 12% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petite Verdot, 1% Merlot. Or Try This Ben Webster’s Sophisticated Lady Final Verdict A jazzy wine

Final Verdict The king of the hill

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

1â&#x20AC;&#x201C;25

The Best Cabernets of Napa Valley 2011

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

Ranking

Points

94.9

94.8

94.5

94.3

94.0

93.8

93.6

93.5

93.4

93.3

93.0

93.1

92.8

92.6

92.7

92.5

92.4

92.3

92.0

91.8

91.7

91.6

FINE Vintage

TOP 10 2011

95.0p

Bryant Family Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2011

Average Price € 521

Colour Deep, opaque, purple Nose Lovely intensity, refined, complex, gentle toastiness, ripe black currants, blueberries, cedar, tobacco Palate Full-bodied, broad, mouth-filling texture, gentle yet firm tannins, ripe black fruit, toasty Finish Smooth, opulent and satiny In a Nutshell A killer wine Buy or Not Yes, it’s worth every penny Decanting Time 10 hours Glass Time 4 hours When to Drink 2020-2035 Food Pairing Wagyu Steak with Braised Chestnuts and Onions Fake Factor None Inside 660 cases were Information produced, which was 35% less than in 2010

94.9p

Harlan Estate 2011

Average Price € 752 Colour Deep, dark, ruby Nose Intense, rich, perfumey, blackberries, cassis, smoky, spicy Palate Full-bodied, dense, gentle tannins, spicy, licorice, cassis, brambles Finish Refined, velvety and precise In a Nutshell A Bentley Bentayga Buy or Not Yes! Don’t hesitate if you can find a bottle Decanting Time 12 hours Glass Time 4 hours When to Drink 2020-2035 Food Pairing Over-braised Beef with Black Truffle Risotto Fake Factor None Inside The 20th anniversary Information of the first vintage of Harlan Estate Or Try This Alvaro Palacios L’Ermita Velles Vinyes 2010 Final Verdict A very charming wine

Or Try This Pingus 2009 Final Verdict Absolutely brilliant

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94.8p

Shafer Hillside Select Cabernet Sauvignon 2011

Average Price € 248 Colour Deep, opaque, purple

Nose Rich, dense, blackberries, cassis, toasty, dark chocolate, violets, spices, smoky minerality Palate Full-bodied, intense, fresh, powerful, chunky tannins, vivid acidity, rich but supple

Finish Focused, round and vivid In a Nutshell Sensual Buy or Not Yes, let it seduce you

Buy or Not Yes

Decanting Time 8 hours

Decanting Time 10 hours

Glass Time 3 hours

When to Drink 2020-2030

When to Drink 2020-2030 Food Pairing Soba with Green Beans and Beef with Crunchy Asian Shallots

Food Pairing Grilled Rack of Lamb with Roasted Garlic Potatoes Fake Factor None

Fake Factor None

Inside This vineyard was Information originally planted in 1881 by Josephine Tychson, the first female vintner in the Napa Valley

Inside This hillside vineyard is 54 Information acres and very steep and yielded its first vintage in 1978 Or Try This Achaval-Ferrer Finca Altamira La Consulta 2009 Final Verdict An epitome of a Napa Cabernet

Average Price € 330 Colour Deep ruby to purple Nose Concentrated, intense, sweet jammy black fruit, dark raspberries, brambles, plums, spices, licorice Palate Full-bodied, sweet tannins, opulent ripe black and red fruits, violets, round Finish Mellow, soft and opulent In a Nutshell Palate pleaser Buy or Not Yes, and if you can, buy the entire Bond range Decanting Time 5 hours Glass Time 3 hours When to Drink Now-2025 Food Pairing Miso-cured Duck Breast with Roasted Pumpkin Fake Factor None Inside Melbury was the first Information wine in the Bond portfolio launched in 1999. It comes from a 7-acre hillside vineyard on rocky soils overlooking Lake Hennessey. Or Try This Bond St-Eden 2011 Final Verdict A crowd pleaser

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

Colour Deep purple

Palate Full-bodied, silky texture, energetic, vivid acidity, refined and firm

In a Nutshell A delicate blockbuster

Bond Melbury 2011

Average Price € 350

Nose Intense, loads of fresh black fruits, touch of herbs, gentle spiciness, floral tones

Finish Harmonious, full and vivid

94.3p

Colgin Tychson Hill Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2011

94.5p

Or Try This Podere Il Carnasciale Caberlot 2010 Final Verdict Seductive and charming

94.0p

Colgin Cariad 2011

Average Price € 417 Colour Deep purple Nose Profound, spicy, smoky, black and red fruits, black olives, licorice Palate Firm, full-bodied, mineral bite, violets, ripe black and red berries Finish Long, vibrant and spicy In a Nutshell A pleasure on the palate Buy or Not Yes, an icon Decanting Time 10 hours Glass Time 3 hours When to Drink 2020-2025 Food Pairing Grilled Entrecôte with Panfried Green Beans Fake Factor None Inside 49% Cabernet Sauvignon, Information 35% Merlot, 10% Petit Verdot and 6% Cabernet Franc. Or Try This E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie La Turque 2011 Final Verdict Wine with great energy and vibes

Average Price € 211

Colour Dark, ruby red

Gargiulo Vineyards G Major 7 2011

93.6p

Average Price € 113

Colour Deep purple

Nose Refined, tempting, cacao, toasty, Bourbon vanilla, black currants

Nose Intense, dark chocolate, cacao, ripe black fruits, spices

Palate Medium-bodied, vivid, blue fruit, refined tannins, polished tannins, warming

Palate Full-bodied, smooth, velvety, chocolatey, round, supple, elegant

Finish Long, persistent and flavourful

Finish Lingering, tasty and spicy

FINE Vintage

Gargiulo Vineyards 575 OVX 2011

93.8p

In a Nutshell Charming chords

In a Nutshell Powerful but still refined

Buy or Not Yes, very lovable

Buy or Not Yes, you will love it

Decanting Time 6 hours

Glass Time 3 hours

When to Drink 2018-2028

When to Drink 2018-2030

Food Pairing Sauteed Lamb Fillets with Broth and Chanterelle Ravioli

Food Pairing Pan-fried Deer Fillet with Roasted Garlic and Port Sauce

Fake Factor None

Inside Approximately 900 cases Information are produced annually

Inside Approximately 200 cases Information are produced annually

Or Try This Oakville Sessions

Or Try This A visit to Gargiulo Vineyards

Final Verdict A great play

Final Verdict A tense wine

93.5p

Screaming Eagle 2011

Average Price € 2,320 Colour Dark ruby to purple Nose Perfumed, spicy, cassis, toasty, dark chocolate, licorice Palate Rich medium-bodied, vivid acidity, firm tannins, fresh opulent fruitiness, lovely spiciness Finish Long, energetic and lingering In a Nutshell Extremely vibrant

93.4p

Caymus Vineyards Special Selection Cabernet Sauvignon 2011

Average Price € 154

Colour Dark purple Nose Intense, toasty, jammy, blueberries, brambles, cassis, violets Palate Full-bodied, chunky but supple tannins, smooth texture, round Finish Long, rich and velvety In a Nutshell A Napa Cab cowboy

Buy or Not Compared to the 2010, it’s a bargain!

Buy or Not Yes, if you like icons

Decanting Time 5 hours

Decanting 8 hours Time

Glass Time 3 hours

When to Drink 2025-2030 Food Pairing Grilled Duck Breast with Cherries and Port Sauce Fake Factor Very low, but expensive bottles are always on the radar Inside 75% Cabernet Information Sauvignon, 13% Merlot and 12% Cabernet Franc Or Try This Le Pin 2011

When to 2020-2030 Drink Food Pairing T-Bone Steak with Fries and Aioli Fake Factor None Inside The first vintage was Information released in 1975 Or Try This Concha y Toro Don Melchor 2011 Final Verdict Return to glory

Final Verdict Classy Average prices from wine-searcher.com FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

FINE Chronicles

Photo: Sinziana Demian/ WWF Central Africa

FINDING PORT IN

AFRICA text

photos :

Pekka Nuikki

A muddy track faintly resembling a road cut through the rainforest. On both sides the dense forest appeared impenetrable, gloomy and even scarily silent, but we hoped it was on our side and would protect us from the rebellious and drunk soldiers. It was the mid1990s, Zaire was in revolt, hundreds of people â&#x20AC;&#x201C; civilians, elderly, even the ambassador of France â&#x20AC;&#x201C; had been killed in conflicts across the country. Somehow, despite the fact that my friends and I were on a road travelling through this mutinous country, I was not afraid or even worried about my future. My love of adventure had taken over.

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The knowledge that anything might happen gave me an enormous sense of energy. Even the slow progress of our journey felt joyous for once. The fallen trees, collapsed bridges and the “road” which reminded me of a field after torrential rains, swallowed our car in its abysmal potholes. This all just seemed to add to the feeling of adventure. Despite our almost non-existent speed we passed small local villages all the while, and always some little boy appeared mirage-like with a dead chicken, snake or some other creature that previously had a life, – and which was by now probably quite inedible. Occasionally there was a bottle of Coca-Cola swaying in front of a cheerful smile, and the bargaining began. Although the price of a Coke was already four times what it had been in the last village, it would be six times as much in the next, so I closed the deal with five American dollars. Never before had a cold Coke tasted so good and never before had I been so totally “robbed”. A few villages later and I was silently glad when the price was now tenfold. From one village to the next our voyage was lined with pitiful monuments of exploitation and negligence. The destruction caused by western “conquerors”, and a lust for power and property in this extraordinarily beautiful and formerly so prosperous continent, was so evident that my sense of humanity was put to the test each and every day. Despite all this misery I have not in any other corner of the world met people who are more sincere, happy and aware of their own human dignity than here in the midst of the densest rainforests of Zaire. In spite of difficulties such as collapsed bridges and cows standing motionless on the road, the happiness of the local people soothed my soul, and towards nightfall my ease of being got better. But only for a moment, for I was about to experience “God’s” influence as powerfully as any man can. During the past few hours we had not seen or heard a soul, until suddenly, in the middle of the forest, a vast clearing opened in front of us and on the edge of it stood an enormous church. What appeared in front of us was the most convincing and frightening symbol of the power of white man, dressed in a transparent cape of piety. Our 68

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

amazement was interrupted by the opening of doors as high as trees, and towards me walked with peaceful steps a Belgian missionary couple. The promise of a hot meal, cool shower and a mattress to a man who had not washed or slept well for several days restored my faith in humanity. After a shower, which cleansed both body and soul, and a change of clothes, it was time for supper. We learned that we were the first visitors for over a month, so there was much to talk about and supper gradually became breakfast as the morning sun began to rise. Right after the supper as we comfortably sat in our chairs, feeling quite replete, the master of the house fetched from the next room an unopened bottle of vintage Port. It was, he said, his only one, a dusty bottle with no label, and on the brittle capsule was printed the words “Hooper’s Vintage Port 1944”. Before my glass was filled with this almost black Port, our master blessed the wine and prayed for a safe continuation of our journey. Deep in Zaire, in the depths of the rainforest, inside that sanctuary I lifted to my lips this blessed drink and my thoughts returned to home, so far away and to my wife who was pregnant and in the middle of a cold winter. At that moment I wished that this wine, which burned my heart like love, would ease my endless longing. >

91p

1944 Vintage Port Hooper’s

I got a chance to taste this port, once tasted with love, again at The Vine Club’s Port-tasting a few years ago. It was almost as good then as in the middle of that tropical forest. Decanted for three hours. A good, deep and vigorous, dark colour. Flowery, spicy and alcoholic open nose. Full and rich and a quite forward Port. Not too much tannin left, but enough fruit and acidity to keep it alive and kicking. Warm and smooth finish. It lacks the depth and complexity of a really great vintage Port and also of course the blessing.

Au s t r a l i from

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F I N E Australia

a ’s Best

2000s

Text: Ken Gargett Photos: Pekka Nuikki

ine judging with a difference. A quest to seek out the very best wine made in Australia this decade – winner take all. One wine to rule them all.

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ith only one panel of five judges. Judges from different countries, let alone hemispheres, have varying approaches. Different backgrounds often lead to different tastes. Pekka Nuikki, founder of the Fine Group, and Meri Kukkavaara, publishing editor of Fine Champagne, representing Europe. Local vineyard/ winery valuer and wine auctioneer, Colin Gaetjens, and the writers, Nick Ryan and myself, were the home boys. Nick and I see an endless parade of Australian wines, usually youthful ones at that. The European palates are more in tune to the Old World. Colin’s experience places him somewhere in between. It does mean subtly varying styles. So, it is going to be all about consistency. All Australian wineries are invited to submit wines, which have to be from this century. They are requested to send just one. The aim is to get the wineries to make the initial choice as to what was the best that 72

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

they thought they have to offer. Some ‘flout’ this and send more, but all are eventually considered in the tasting. All wines are tasted blind. There is none of the usual ‘horse-trading’ – the scores on 100 are simply tallied and averaged. The wines tasted and judged are only classified by colour, not by different varieties or regions – Pinot Noir is pitted against Cabernet Sauvignon or even Riesling, comparing it with Shiraz and so forth. Are apples being compared with oranges? Maybe not, because the goal is to close in on the best wine among the 50 odd wines that are entered – because that is the only prize on offer! But, if I may invoke a usual sporting cliché, there are no losers.

The Aussie Way The Australian Show system has done wonders for the standard of Australian wine over many decades – it works!

Each show has one of more panels of judges, usually winemakers, wine writers or critics or those somehow involved with the wine industry. Each panel consists of three judges, often with a few associate judges who can judge and argue, but in the end, their scores do not count. The panel will assess an array of wines. They will be judged blind but usually slot into a category – so you might see a group of young Shiraz or Rutherglen fortifieds, or if you are really unlucky, 150 current vintage Sauvignon Blancs. Marking is usually on 20, even as there is a move to score on a base of 100. At the end of each tasting, the scores are tallied and averaged. 15.5 and more will get it a bronze medal; 17 and above garners a silver and 18.5 and higher brings home the gold. Trophies are assessed later when all panels pool and work through the top contenders. In the old days, it was not unknown for judges to look at more than 200 wines a day, but recently, this

F I N E Australia

number has been reduced, acknowledging the limits of the human palate.

Horse-trading One key feature of the Australian system is the debate when panels confer to tally – some call it ‘horse-trading’. Say a judge gives a wine a deserved gold medal. Unless all judges have done so (much rarer than you might think), the wine will be brought back for further assessment – sometimes the bracket can be retasted in several instances. The judge giving gold will either concede it is not worth it or attempt to convince the other judges that they should elevate their scores. This is where the idea of horse-trading came about as there is a feeling, in some circles, that a judge will agree to elevate his score to a gold for a wine if the other judge does the same for his preferred wine! But to be fair to the system, I am sure that never happens. Once resolved, the panel then fronts up to the next set of wines.

A gold for all A key difference from most Australian shows – the overall quality of the wines is at a level not seen before or since. Up for grabs is the “Best Australian Wine of 2000s”, so only the very best are submitted. Had this been a ‘normal’ show, almost every wine would win a gold medal. Of course, there are a few wines which did not show at their best on the day. The other risk is ensuring that subtle and elegant wines are not overshadowed by powerhouses. If a fragrant Pinot is boxed in between a bold Barossa Shiraz, there is every chance it could be done in.

The spread Australia has the 15% rule! A wine can be called ‘Cabernet Sauvignon’ (or ‘Mornington Peninsula’), for example, provided there is less than 15% of other varieties (or regions) in the wine with 85% or more, Cabernet. The

other varieties (or regions) are not required to be named. As far as varieties go, no prizes for guessing that the reds are dominated by Shiraz – seventeen wines. Surprisingly, Cabernet Sauvignon is a clear second – nine wines. And the traditional Aussie blend of those two grapes – three wines. The Pinot Noir is seen – four wines. A lone representative of Grenache, Nebbiolo and a Tempranillo/ Touriga blend (all from one producer, who seized the opportunity to push the envelope). An even playing field in the whites – four wines each for Riesling and Chardonnay, three Semillon (all three from the Hunter Valley), two Viogniers and a Marsanne. Regions are a bit blurry. Grange, that is a blend of many regions, is left aside. The others are listed as best we believe them to have been sourced – Barossa and Eden Valley are considered as a single entity and, not surprisingly, our most famous region

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dominates with twelve entries. McLaren Vale (with nine wines) confirms what an excellent district this is for top wine, despite so often being overlooked. Six wines come from the Hunter Valley, with four each from Margaret River and Clare Valley. And a bit of a jigsaw with one or two wines from Mornington Peninsula, Yarra Valley, Adelaide Hills, Gippsland, Macedon, Beechworth, Central Victoria. Most surprisingly, in the sense that it is not better represented, Coonawarra! In vintages, 2010 is preferred, backing up conventional wisdom that this really was a superb vintage – in a country the size of Australia, it is impossible to get anything like a standard vintage report – twelve wines are from the 2010 vintage. Other highly regarded vintages are well represented – eight wines from 2002, six from 2006 and five each from 2008 and 2005. 2004, 2007 and 2009 all give four wines, while 2003, 2011 and 2012 each

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have a single representative. 2000 and 2001 alongwith more recent years fail to appear.

A revelation This show gives us a great deal more than just one top wine. It provides a revealing across-the-board snapshot of what winemakers think are their top wines. At the time the tasting was held, it is true that only a small fraction of the wines that are capable of top honours have already hit the market. From vintages where the whites were judged, the reds are still in winery cellars. There will be many, many great wines yet to be made. It is never meant to be a final statement – this show will be repeated in the future.

The top wine Such a close call. We all have two wines equal top – the 2004 Penfold’s Grange and

F I N E Australia FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

AUSTRALIA’S TOP 10 FROM THE 2000S Penfold’s ‘Grange’ 2004 – Still opaque red and purple. Tobacco, plum, spice and truffle notes. Complex, intense, dense, extremely long and backed by plenty of acidity. Quality oak. A rich, lengthy conclusion. There is some development (though perhaps not as much as one would expect from a decade old wine). Many happy years ahead. Brilliant. 98.4 points Henschke ‘Mt Edelstone’ 2002 – My first note was “do not spit this”! There was a touch of maturity on the edge of the rim but otherwise, bright attractive red. A glorious complex nose. Wonderfully aromatic. Fragrance of game, spice, warm earth, cigar box, truffle. A wine that one would be more than happy just smelling but that would be to deny great pleasure. Seamless and perfectly balanced, it maintains its intensity on a very long and silky finish. 98.0 points d’Arenberg ‘The Dead Arm’ Shiraz 2004 – Some maturity in both colour and nose, with noticeably rich toasty notes. A layered style. Seamless and concentrated. A mix of black and red fruits. An impressive structure. The longer it was in the glass, the more impressive it got. Reasonable length. The intensity faded gently. It was good, not great, but a seriously impressive wine. 97.0 points

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F I N E Australia

Jacob’s Creek ‘Johann’ Shiraz Cabernet 2005 – Dark centre, bright red edge. Exuberant, opulent and ripe. Liquorice notes, spice, chocolate, coffee beans, black jelly beans, oodles of aniseed and black fruit. Some oak that is well integrated. Really concentrated with fine tannins. Lingers beautifully. A lovely example of exuberance and elegance working in harmony. 96.8 points Henschke ‘Hill of Grace’ 2005 – Lovely magenta/ red colours. Beautifully fragrant. The nose provides characters of cigar box, anise, red fruit, dry herbs and more. Really exciting. There is some development, but also a future. Soft and voluptuous but refined; elegant yet intense. Lovely soft cashmere-like tannins. This was clearly a wine of real class and quality. 96.6 points Wyndham Estate ‘Black Cluster’ Shiraz 2007 – A deep purple colour. Plum on the nose - fresh ripe plums. Cherry and chocolate as well. Quite an opulent style, generous but well balanced. Very fine tannins. An underlying flick of acidity supports a wine that is supple, seamless and silky. Hard not to love. It may not be particularly subtle, but it is not trying to be. 96.4 points Grosset ‘Polish Hill’ Riesling 2002 – Delightfully fresh. Still tight and minerally. Beautifully balanced. Lemony notes, spices, citrus. A slatey note. Immaculate and complex. This does exhibit a little age, but is amazingly fresh and long. A secured future for this truly great Clare vintage from the most famous vineyard of the region’s leading winemaker is an easy prediction. 96.2 points Bass Philip ‘Reserve’ Pinot Noir 2009 – The wine just screamed complexity. A lovely soft, elegant style with a wonderfully alluring nose. Red fruits dominate. It has a juicy freshness and good acidity. Notes of truffles. There is perhaps more on the nose than one finds on the palate, but it hardly matters. Fine length. A wonderful example of Aussie Pinot that Burgundy makers literally hug to ensure no one pinched it. 96.2 points Mount Pleasant ‘Lovedale’ Semillon 2007 – No mistaking this as anything but an utterly beguiling Hunter Semillon. One with some age but still almost an infant. The complexity is building. Lovely notes of lanolin. Balanced and seamless. A wine that lingers. A fabulous Semillon with complexity, great length, a little maturity and a long future that could be overshadowed by the Kiwi sauvalanche. 96.0 points William Downie ‘Mornington Peninsula’ Pinot Noir 2008 – A pale, light red colour that gives away the glass as a Pinot. Initially thought of as much older than it could be, if at all from this century. Floral, spice, game. Beautifully complex. Very fine, juicy tannins and good acidity. Excellent length. The wine re-iterates the sublime skills of the pinotphile, Bill. A personal favourite. 96.0 points

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FINE Legend

THE BEST VEGA SICILIA UNICO VINTAGES 1915–2008 Bottle condition A1: Bordeaux bottle: Wine level by the neck Burgundy bottle: No ullage Influence on the price of the wine: Full price

A2: Bordeaux bottle: Wine level bottom neck Burgundy bottle: Ullage between 1cm-2cm Influence on the price of the wine: Full price

A4: Bordeaux bottle: Wine level upper shoulder Burgundy bottle: Ullage between 4cm-6cm Influence on the price of the wine: 20-25%

93p

1915 Vega Sicilia Unico

Average auction price: Bottle Condition: Colour: Nose:

€1120 A2 Dark, intense, brownish Sweet, open and sound – chocolate, spicy, toasted, mature

Palate: Medium-bodied, intense, well-

balanced, soft, elegant, harmonious

Finish: Long and silky In a nutshell: The beginning of the legend Buy or not: A wine that money can’t buy Tasted: 3 times Decanting time: 30 minutes Glass time: 1 hour When to drink: Now Food pairing: No food, please Fake factor: Very low Inside information: fter the Rioja vineyards had

recovered from Phylloxera in 1915, the winemaker of Vega Sicilia, Domingo Garramiola, made his first estate bottled wine – first vintage of Unico saw the daylight.

Or try this: Bodegas La Rioja Alta 890 1890 Final verdict: There is always something magical

when you taste the birth vintage of a great wine – this was no exception.

A3: Bordeaux bottle: Wine level top shoulder Burgundy bottle: Ullage between 2cm-4cm Influence on the price of the wine: 10-15%

A5: Bordeaux bottle: Wine level mid-shoulder or lower Burgundy bottle: Ullage between 6cm-9cm Influence on the price of the wine: 30-50%

98p

1917 Unico Bodegas Vega Sicilia

Average auction price: Bottle Condition: Colour: Nose:

€2422 A3 Dark, brick-red with orange hue Expressive, intense, leather, spices and old wood

Palate: Sophisticated, medium-bodied,

elegant, velvety structure, very complex, flavourful, vanilla, cocoa, tobacco, caramel, touch of wood

Finish: Multi-layered, vivid, lingering In a nutshell: A wine like the Chesterfield vintage couch

Buy or not: Absolutely yes, if only you are able to find one

Tasted: 3 times Decanting time: 10 minutes Glass time: 30 minutes When to drink: Now Food pairing: The best Pata Negra available Fake factor: Very low Inside information: There is a nice story attached to this

particular bottle of Unico 1917. The grandfather of the current owner of a famous Bilbao restaurant was well acquainted with the previous owner of Vega Sicilia, but at that time, in the 1920s, his establishment was not an upper scale restaurant where fine and expensive wines like Vega Sicilia could be sold. The owner of Vega Sicilia, said that as they were friends, he would allocate three bottles of Unico every year to the restaurateur: one bottle that they would drink together, one that the restaurateur could drink when he wanted and the last one he should keep for his grandchildren. Hopefully this bottle was the one he forgot to drink by himself.

Or try this: 1917 Bugatti Type 16 Final verdict: The best Unico produced before the 1960s

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94p

1922 Vega Sicilia Unico

Average auction price: Bottle Condition: Colour: Nose:

€1211 A3 Dark, healthy, promising Open, exotic, ripe, leathery, sweet, intense, coffee, toffee, plum, dried fruit

Palate: Fresh, fruity, full, intense, balanced,

94p

1924 Vega Sicilia Unico

Average auction price: Bottle Condition: Colour: Nose: Palate:

rich, powerful, well-polished tannins

Finish: Round, silky, warm, long In a nutshell: No signs of old age Buy or not: Perhaps the best wine from the

difficult 1922 vintage you can buy

Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing:

3 times 30 minutes 1 hour Now Rabbit ragout with truffle flavoured Pappardelle pasta

Fake factor: None Inside information: A very good year in Spain – the rest of the world is undrinkable

€2390 A2 Dark, bright, deep Tight, refined, ripe, seductive Elegant, complex, full, balanced, rich, powerful, drying tannins, smoky, nutty, dried-fruits, aromatic

Finish: Long, lingering In a nutshell: Intelligent Buy or not: Only if you have tasted all the younger Unicos – quite expensive

Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Fake factor: Or try this: Final verdict:

2 times 30 minutes 1 hour Now Lamb loin with carrot risotto None Latour 1924 Opens slowly, but worth the wait

Or try this: Castillo Ygay 1917 Final verdict: A truly fine wine in excellent condition

THE BEST VEGA SICILIA UNICO VINTAGES 1915–2008 95p

1929 Vega Sicilia Unico

Average auction price: Bottle Condition: Colour: Nose:

€1549 A2 Dark, deep, mystique, healthy Vigour, fresh, attempting, seductive, meaty, coffee, cigar, pistachio, mocha, plum

Palate: Crispy, wide, rich, ripe, multi-layered, well-balanced, distinctive

Finish: Medium-long, pure, complex, round, warming

In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing:

Lots of content Yes, with pleasure 5 times 1 hour 2 hours Now Fried rump steak served with rustic potatoes

Fake factor: None Inside information: The name Vega Sicilia first appeared in a document from 1601 in the form of “Pagos de Vega Sicilia y Carrascal”, which means vineyard sites on the slopes of Santa Cecilia.

Or try this: Haut-Brion 1929 Final verdict: Great, long lasting vintage

94p

1936 Vega Sicilia Unico

Average auction price: Bottle Condition: Colour: Nose:

€1355 A2 Almost black, deep, sound Clean, pure, generous, expressive, dried fig and apricot, cocoa, white truffles, burnt sugar, eucalyptus

Palate: Well-balanced, assertive, full, intense, gentle, multi-dimensional, peaceful

Finish: Round, ”biting”, extensive In a nutshell: Refined and hearthy wine Buy or not: Yes, if possible Tasted: 6 times Decanting time: 1 hour Glass time: 1 hour When to drink: Now Food pairing: Food for thought Fake factor: None Inside information: Undoubtedly the rarest and one of

the best Unicos of the 1930s. While the grapes of this noble wine were ripening under the burning sun, on the hills of the Duero river, the youngest general of Spain, Francisco Franco, was planning a bloody coup d’état, which would lead the country into a civil war.

Or try this: Château Pétrus 1937 Final verdict: Michael Bettane, who we had dinner

with, said that the Unico 1936 was divinely delicate but had fire in its soul - how right he was.

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1942 Vega Sicilia Unico

Average auction price: Bottle Condition: Colour: Nose:

€1321 A3 Fine, tawny, clear, deep Sound, open, full of fruit, perfumed, vanilla, aromatic, meaty, capsicum

91p

Palate: Broad, stylish, complex, firm structure, A bit narrow, astringent, youthful No signs of old age Yes, if you turn 70 in 2012 6 times 1 hour 1 hour Now Roasted rack of lamb with Manchego potato pure

Fake factor: None Inside information: Only 12 150 bottles were produced,

using 75% Tempranillo, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, Malbec and Albillo. The phases in the typical maturation process of the wines in this period included time in large wooden wine vats, followed by a period in 700 litre wooden tanks and then finished off in used casks. In exceptional cases, new casks may have been used to coincide with the replacement of the old casks.

€840 A1 Intense, brick-red, bright Wide, pure, dark cherries, leather, nutty, toasty, sweet, vanilla, plum

Palate: Concentrated, balanced, intense,

fresh, medium-bodied, ample

Finish: In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing:

1947 Vega Sicilia Unico

Average auction price: Bottle Condition: Colour: Nose:

FINE Legend

93p

smooth tannins, lively acidity, good fruit

Finish: In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing:

A silky, herbaceous, complex A peculiar wine Yes, but very hard to find 9 times 30 minutes 1 hour Now Pan-fried rump steak with green pepper sauce

Fake factor: None Inside information: Very low production – just over 13 000 bottles

Or try this: CVNE Viña Real Gran Reserva 1947 Final verdict: A fascinating vintage – in Bordeaux

Or try this: Inglenook 1942 Final verdict: A very fine effort, but still lacks the

qualities to be recognised as great!

88p

1951 Vega Sicilia Unico

Average auction price: Bottle Condition: Colour: Nose: Palate: Finish: In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing:

€1190 A2 Dark, amber, mature Scented, volatile, cedar wood, earthy Medium-bodied, sweet, smooth, fresh Short, aromatic, gentle Restrained No 2 times 45 min 45 min 1961 Roasted garlic with grass-fed beef sliders

Fake factor: None Inside information: One of the worst wine vintages in the 20th century, but not in Spain.

Or try this: Vina Real 1951 Final verdict: A very fine effort, but still lacks the

qualities to be recognised as great!

93p

1953 Vega Sicilia Unico

Average auction price: Bottle Condition: Colour: Nose:

€1126 A2 Dark, deep, mature, healthy Reserved, weak, earthy, walnuts, leathery, aromatic, cedar

Palate: Medium-bodied, elegant, cool, a bit dry, velvety, rich, balanced

Finish: In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing:

Vital, smooth, long Good spirit This is a solid buy 15 times 1.5 hours 1 hour Now to 2025 Venison, served with dark chocolate flavored demi-glace and aged gouda

Fake factor: Neither seen nor heard of Inside information: A low production year – just over

32 000 bottles. The blend was Tempranillo 80%, Cabernet Sauvignon 15% with Merlot, Malbec and Albillo 5%.

Or try this: Mouton-Rothschild 1949 Final verdict: Layers to be unravelled

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91p

1955 Vega Sicilia Unico

Average auction price: Bottle Condition: Colour: Nose: Palate: Finish: In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing:

€940 A1 Healthy, intense, brick-red Open, evolved, toasty, earthy, coffee

95p

1957 Vega Sicilia Unico

Average auction price: Bottle Condition: Colour: Nose:

Medium-bodied, a bit reserved but with decent balance, low in acidity, sweet red fruits, peppery

You can do better with €1000 6 times 45 minutes 1 hour Now to 2025 Garlic roasted pork ribs with grilled bell peppers

Fake factor: None Or try this: Haut-Brion 1955 Final verdict: Graceful but not tasteful

A2 Moderately deep, brick-red Medium-strong, evolved, leathery, ripe strawberries, floral, toasty, esters, tobacco

Palate: Refined, medium-bodied structure

with satiny tannins, vivid acidity, ripe red fruits, spicy, leathery

Round and robust Shy

€662

Finish: Complex, energetic and lively In a nutshell: A surprisingly energetic and seductive style for Unico

Buy or not: Yes! Do not think twice Tasted: 3 times Decanting time: 20 minutes Glass time: 45 minutes When to drink: Now–2018 Food pairing: None Fake factor: Neither seen nor heard of Inside information: The 1957 Unico, made from 80%

Tinto Fino (Tempranillo) and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, was commericialised during the seventies in 25 500 Bordeaux bottles. This was the first great wine created by Vega Sicilia’s new director and enologist Jesús Antadón, who revived the esteemed reputation of the famous estate during his long career, which ran from 1956 to 1985.

Or try this: DRC La Tâche 1957 Final verdict: The world’s best wine from this vintage

THE BEST VEGA SICILIA UNICO VINTAGES 1915–2008 97p

1962 Vega Sicilia Unico

Average auction price: Bottle Condition: Colour: Nose:

€569 A1 Dark, almost black, deep, promising Classic, sound, open, vivid, cherries, blackberries, vanilla, cedar, wood

Palate: Well-balanced, multi-layered, complex, intense, youthful, smooth, perfect

Finish: Very long, persistance, flavourful, elegant

In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing:

Damn good Absolutely yes. 16 times 1 hours 2 hours Now to 2020 Châteaubriand with roasted root vegetables and rosemary potatoes

Fake factor: None so far Inside information: In Spain the climate conditions in

1962 had all the characteristics of a great year: a cold winter and a mild spring with high spluviometry. During the hot summer there were great thermal fluctuations between day and night, a phenomena which contributes to the mark of a great vintage. The harvest took place under excellent temperature conditions and sunny skies. Because of the excellent climate conditions the harvesting began at the beginning of October. The result was very good, and it was possible to bottle 87 600 bordelais bottles and 2200 magnums.

Or try this: Château Haut-Brion 1961 Final verdict: An absolutely brilliant and royal wine

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

97p

1964 Vega Sicilia Unico

Average auction price: Bottle Condition: Colour: Nose:

€711 A1 Dark, healthy, bright Intense, open, wide, tar, roses, defined, earthy tones, cherries

Palate: Perfect balance, opulent, tender fresh

acidity, mellow, velvety, elegant, exotic

Finish: Extensive, broad, seductive In a nutshell: Knock-out Unico Buy or not: Good value Tasted: 6 times Decanting time: 1 hour Glass time: 1 hour When to drink: Now to 2030 Food pairing: Anything grilled Fake factor: None Inside information: Vega Sicilia released the 1964

vintage between the years 1976 and 1983. 96 000 bottles were produced. The blend was Tempranillo 65%, Cabernet Sauvignon 20% with Merlot, Malbec and Albillo 15%.

Or try this: Chave Hermitage 1964 Final verdict: Admirable finesse

1965 Vega Sicilia Unico

Average auction price: Bottle Condition: Colour: Nose:

€309 A1 Brilliant, fairly deep, bright, youthful Sweet, open, rich, truffles, cedar, smokiness, glyceride

94p

Palate: Medium-bodied, intense mounthfeel,

made in 1965

Buy or not: Super good price-quality ratio Tasted: 8 times Decanting time: 1 hours Glass time: 2 hours When to drink: Now to 2015 Food pairing: Rabbit ragôut with fried rice Fake factor: Not today, not tomorrow Inside information: A fairly difficult year in Spain,

particularly in Rioja, with heavy rain during the harvest. In Ribera del Duero the winter was relatively cold and rainy, holding the vines back a few weeks. But May and April were warm, and were followed by a successful early flowering and an almost ideal warm and long summer. After a hot and waterless summer some welcome rain arrived in late September. In Bodegas Vega Sicilia the harvest started at the beginning of October in dry and warm conditions. The quantity was high for this vintage and the total production of Unico was 91 000 Bordeaux bottles and 2 000 magnums. The 1965 Unico was made from Tinto Fino (Tempranillo) 75%, Cabernet Sauvignon 20% and Merlot 5%, and was commercialised from 1984 to 1987.

€690 A1 Dark, brick red, promising Wide, forward, refined, youthful, tropical fruits, forest floor, pepper, plum, nutty, smokey

Palate: Focussed, succulent, velvety, well-

juicy acidity, smooth, energetic

Finish: Beautiful, silky, sensitive In a nutshell: This is certainly the best red wine of all

1966 Vega Sicilia Unico

Average auction price: Bottle Condition: Colour: Nose:

FINE Legend

95p

balanced, multi-layered structure, mature

Finish: In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Fake factor: Or try this: Final verdict:

Thrilling, pure, long A basic Unico Yes 5 times 2 hours 1 hour Now to 2025 Grilled lamb with cucumber salad None Heitz Martha’s Vineyard 1966 As solid and dependable as a middleaged secretary

Or try this: 1965 Mustang Cabriolet Final verdict: Difficult to find fault

94p

1970 Vega Sicilia Unico

Average auction price: Bottle Condition: Colour: Nose:

€619 A1 Good, healthy, youthful Full, wide, complex, delicate, coffee, walnut, tobacco, syrup, wood flavour

Palate: Powerful, youthful, warm, intense Finish: Very long, flavourful, multi-layered, sophisticated

In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing:

It was worth the long wait Very good price-quality ratio 7 times 1.5 hours 2 hours Now to 2025 Jabugo Pata Negra with aged manchego and onions.

Fake factor: Because of Parker’s very high points there is a chance of faulty bottles

Inside information: The year started with very cold

weather and high rainfall. There was no spring frost and the summer was hot and wet with considerable variations in temperature from night to day. Autumn was mild and an early harvest took place under decent weather conditions. The crop was small, but the quality was superb. This Unico was commercialised in 75cl size (94 500 bottles) between 1995 and 1997. In magnum size (2 000 bottles), it happened as late as in 2000. The 1970 Unico is a blend of 70% Tinto Fino, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Merlot.

92p

1973 Vega Sicilia Unico

Average auction price: Bottle Condition: Colour: Nose:

€460 A1 Deep, dark, healthy Pure, elegant, truffles, vanilla, smokiness, exotic spices

Palate: Medium-bodied, good balance, sweet, voluptuous, stylish

Finish: Pampering, sensitive In a nutshell: Can’t get a much better wine from this vintage

Buy or not: Absolutely, especially if your birth year is 1973

Tasted: 5 times Decanting time: 1 hour Glass time: 1 hour When to drink: Now to 2025 Food pairing: Oven baked pigeon with crepe risotto Fake factor: None Inside information: During this era, Ribera del Duero

started to raise its head as a wine production region, and by the mid-1970s Vega Sicilia was accompanied by 30 other wine producers in the region.

Or try this: Penfolds Grange 1973 Final verdict: Less scare, more flair

Or try this: Château Latour 1970 Final verdict: Magnums are even better

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

94p

1974 Vega Sicilia Unico

Average auction price: Bottle Condition: Colour: Nose:

€592 A1 Bright, intense, deep Youthful, open, mint, tobacco, dark berries, leather

Palate: Well balanced, rich, ripe tannins, complex, opulent

Finish: In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Fake factor: Or try this: Final verdict:

Long, delicate, vibrant Excellent ripe Unico The second priciest 1974 wine 6 times, last in 8/2015 1.5 hours 1 hours Now to 2030 Beef Bourguignon Not really Heitz Martha’s Vineyard 1974 One of the best 1974’ s ever made

94p

1976 Vega Sicilia Unico

Average auction price: Bottle Condition: Colour: Nose: Palate:

€376 A1 Bright, fairly deep, youthful Toasty, sweet fruit, wide, seductive Medium-bodied, lush, fine-grained tannins, aromatic, fine acidity

Finish: Good length, balanced In a nutshell: One of our favourite “every day” Unico’s

Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Fake factor: Or try this: Final verdict:

Great value for Unico 4 times 1 hour 1 hour Now to 2025 Grilled rack of lamb Never seen one Dom Pérignon 1976 As good as any red wine from 1976 could be!

THE BEST VEGA SICILIA UNICO VINTAGES 1915–2008

92p

1980 Unico Bodegas Vega Sicilia

Average auction price: Bottle Condition: Colour: Nose:

€400 A1 Deep, ruby, youthful Reluctance leads to tar, smoke, lead pencil

Palate: Medium-bodied, supple texture, opulent fruit, nicely balanced

Finish: Moderate length, glycerin, alcohol In a nutshell: A forgotten vintage? Buy or not: There are not many better wines

available from 1980 that are the same price level and more drinkable today.

Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing:

6 times 2 hours 1 hour 2025 to 2030 Braised veal with creamy truffle potatoes

Fake factor: None Or try this: Caymus Special Selection 1980 Final verdict: The little sister of the great 1982

96p

1982 Vega Sicilia Unico

Average auction price: Bottle Condition: Colour: Nose:

€286 A1 Dark, dense, clean Impressive, open, wide, perfumed, milk chocolate, defined, earthy tones, cedar, cocoa

Palate: Vigour, creamy, fresh acidity, mellow, well-balanced, velvety, elegant, full

Finish: Lovely weight, broad, meaty, extensive

In a nutshell: Mouth-filling Buy or not: Great value Tasted: 4 times Decanting time: 2 hours Glass time: 2 hours When to drink: Now to 2025 Food pairing: Grilled lamb chops Fake factor: None Inside information: This is the year that David Alvarez

acquired the winery and the vineyards from the Venezuelan businessman, Miguel Neumann. Vega Sicilia released both the 1968 and 1982 vintages at the same time in 1991, after 23 and 9 years ageing. The wine remained in 20 000 litre wooden tanks for one year, in new casks of French oak for 8 months, in semi-old and old oak for 4 years and the rest in bottles until it was released. Production of 81 500 bottles and 2 000 magnums. The blend comprises Tempranillo 65%, Cabernet Sauvignon 20% with Merlot, Malbec and Albillo 15%.

Or try this: Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 1982

Final verdict: A bull with soul

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1985 Vega Sicilia Unico

Average auction price: Bottle Condition: Colour: Nose:

€235 A1 Medium-intense, ruby Charming, intense, complex, blackcurrant, tobacco, white chocolate, farmyard aromas, dark fruits

Palate: Medium-bodied, good balance,

elegant, moderate acidity, supple tannins, polished

Finish: In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing:

Refined, lingering, long So elegant Great value 11 times 1 hour 2 hours Now Fried duck breast served with light Hoisin sauce and polenta

Fake factor: None Inside information: After fermentation, it spent 12 months in large capacity wooden vats. It was aged for 8 months in new casks, 24 months in semi-used casks and 26 months in used casks. The rest in the bottle until commercialisation in 1996. Tempranillo 70%, Cabernet Sauvignon 20%, Merlot, Malbec and Albillo 10%. Production of 60 750 75cl bottles and 2 000 magnums.

96p

1986 Vega Sicilia Unico

Average auction price: Bottle Condition: Colour: Nose: Palate:

€320 A1 Opaque garnet, bright Intense, opulent, generous Well-balanced, round, intense, black fruit, smooth tannins, glycerine, complex, full

FINE Legend

95p

Finish: Long, supple and vivid In a nutshell: Round and opulent wine Buy or not: Yes Tasted: 7 times Decanting time: 2 hours Glass time: 2 hours When to drink: Now to 2035 Food pairing: Roasted venison with grilled beetroot Fake factor: None Inside information: Alcoholic fermentation in large

wooden vats for 12 months. The following 12 months were spent in new and semi-new casks. A further 5 years more spent in used casks. The rest in the bottle until commercialization in bottles in March 1998. The Magnums were sold since 2003, and the double Magnums since 2004.

Or try this: Margaux 1986 Final verdict: The wine of the vintage in Spain

Or try this: Château Palmer 1985 Final verdict: Ready to drink, although they released the Double Magnums just a few years ago.

90p

1989 Vega Sicilia Unico

Average auction price: Bottle Condition: Colour: Nose:

€221 A1 Bright, ruby, intense Exotic, elegant, open, fresh, balsamic, black ripe fruits, cherry, fig

Palate: Powerful, tannic, persistent, vivid

acidity, full, a bit volatile, promising

Finish: Reserved, smooth, warming, a bit of bite

In a nutshell: Needs more time Buy or not: Future value Tasted: 13 times Decanting time: 2 hours Glass time: 3 hours When to drink: 2020 Food pairing: Beef Wellington Fake factor: None Inside information: The 1990 vintage was released in a 75 cl format in 2003. It is not defined yet when it will be released in Magnum format. Tinto Fino 80%, Cabernet Sauvignon 20%. Production was 100 000 75cl bottles, 2 500 Magnums and 110 Jeroboams.

94p

1991 Vega Sicilia Unico

Average auction price: Bottle Condition: Colour: Nose:

€405 A1 Deep ruby, dark, healthy Pure, elegant, stylish, leather, smoked meat, sweet vanilla, exotic spices

Palate: Full-bodied, good balance and

density, elegant, moderate acidity, supple tannins, polished

Finish: In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Fake factor: Or try this: Final verdict:

Silky, elegant, long, balanced Elegance as opposed to power Great value 15 times 2 hours 1 hour Now to 2030 Fried duck breast None Pesquera Janus Reserva 1991 Lovely to drink today

Or try this: CVNE Imperial 1989 Final verdict: Promising, but will evolve during the next 10–15 years.

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

THE BEST VEGA SICILA UNICO VINTAGES 1915–2008

97p

1994 Vega Sicilia Unico

Average auction price: Bottle Condition: Colour: Nose:

€460 A1 Bright, deep, capable Influential, sweet, ripe, expansive, tar, kirsch, black fruits, plum, herbs

96p

Average auction price: Bottle Condition: Colour: Nose:

Palate: Distinguished, well-balanced, opulent,

Absolutely 11 times 2 hours 2 hours Now to 2035 Pan fried beef sirloin with garlic garden vegetables

Fake factor: Negligible Inside information: A blend of 80% Tinto Fino, 13% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Merlot (presumably 2% is unknown varieties). The harvest began on the 28th of September

Or try this: Try at least once in your lifetime Final verdict: Lovely to drink today

94p

1996 Vega Sicilia Unico

Average auction price: Bottle Condition: Colour: Nose:

€328 A1 Deep, ruby, youthful, unblemished Opulent, unguarded, complex, blackberry, vanilla, dark chocolate, mocha

Palate: Medium-bodied, well-balanced,

supple, mighty, intense, multi-layered, silky

Finish: Flavourful, good length, persuasive In a nutshell: Seductive Buy or not: If no 1994 or 1995 are available Tasted: 10 times Decanting time: 2 hours Glass time: 2 hours When to drink: Now to 2030 Food pairing: Aged Cheddar Fake factor: None Inside information: There are barely 4 000 lucky people

who can claim to have the privilege of purchasing directly from the winery, without having to go to a store or restaurant. This has also increased the price of the wine as they have become aware that it is a scarce commodity, where demand is almost triple the supply.

Or try this: Le Pin 1996 Final verdict: Very expressive

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A1 Deep, garnet red, clear Multifaceted, sweet, exposed, refined smoky, cigar, earthy, fruity, rustic structure, intense, charismatic

Finish: Accomplished, glowing, silky, stretched

Rich, long, mesmerizing All-embracing baggage

€365

Palate: Graceful, smooth, tuneful, firm

plush, very ripe, multi-faceted, intense, voluptuous, firm backbone

Finish: In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing:

1995 Unico Bodegas Vega Sicilia

In a nutshell: A copybook Unico Buy or not: Unconditionally Tasted: 8 times Decanting time: 3 hours Glass time: 2 hours When to drink: 2025 to 2050 Food pairing: Roast duck with fried onions Fake factor: None Inside information: Vega Sicilia Unico 1995 has been

one of the biggest risers on the Liv-Ex 1000 in recent times, climbing almost 37%.

Or try this: Pingus 1995 Final verdict: Inspiring wine with charismatic edge

97p

1998 Vega Sicilia Unico

Average auction price: Bottle Condition: Colour: Nose:

€440 A1 Medium intense, deep ruby Toasty, rich and intense nose with vanilla oaky tones

Palate: Full-bodied, intense, rich, jammed, round, moderate tannins

Finish: In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing:

Long, balanced and energetic finish An overwhelming wine Yes 9 times 3 hours 2 hours Now to 2035 Grilled rack of lamb with fried sweet potatoes

Fake factor: None Or try this: Penfolds Grange 1998 Final verdict: Already great for its age and price

1999 Vega Sicilia Unico

Average auction price: Bottle Condition: Colour: Nose:

€309 A1 Bright, deep, profound Open, noticeable, passionate, oak, kirsch, exotic spices, vanilla, honey

97p

Average auction price: Bottle Condition: Colour: Nose:

Palate: Medium-bodied, mellow, ripe, wellbalanced, multi-layered, seductive, smooth, velvety, sweet tannin

Finish: Warm, long-lasting, intense In a nutshell: Stimulating Buy or not: Good value for money Tasted: 14 times Decanting time: 3 hours Glass time: 2 hours When to drink: Now to 2035 Food pairing: Smoked duck breast with sage Fake factor: None Inside information: Once the process of fermentation was completed, the wine remained in large-capacity wooden vats for 21 months. It then matured for 20 months in new casks, 17months in semi-new casks and 24 months in large-capacity wooden vats. The remaining time was spent in bottle until being released in 2009.

2000 Vega Sicilia Unico

FINE Legend

95p

€310 A1 Almost black, deep, promising Open, powerful, intense, sweet black fruits, oriental spices

Palate: Vigour, opulent, fresh, well-balanced, complex, fleshy, multi-dimensional

Finish: In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing: Fake factor: Or try this: Final verdict:

Long, intense, extensive Very youthful but so drinkable already For sure 4 times 2 hours 2 hours Now to 2035 Pan seared scallops None Artadi Vina El Pisón A restrained classic

Or try this: Clos Erasmus 1999 Final verdict: Could have been even better!

94p

2002 Vega Sicilia Unico

Average auction price: Bottle Condition: Colour: Nose:

€265 A1 Deep, garnet ruby, clear Multi-faceted, sweet, exposed, refined smoky, cigar, earthy

Palate: Graceful, smooth, tuneful, firm structure, intense, charismatic

Finish: Accomplished, silky, stretched In a nutshell: Pleasing Buy or not: You must Tasted: 3 times Decanting time: 3 hours Glass time: 3 hours When to drink: Now to 2040 Food pairing: Truffle risotto Fake factor: None Inside information: Having skipped releasing the 2001

vintage due to frost damage, the 2002 Unico is a result of a severe selection as attested by the label which shows that just 42 932 bottles were produced instead of 108 536 in 2000.

Or try this: Araujo Eisele Vineyard 2002 Final verdict: Bargain alternative

92p

2003 Vega Sicilia Unico

Average auction price: Bottle Condition: Colour: Nose:

€229 A1 Bright, deep, almost black Open, earthy, rich, sharp, truffle, caramel, tobacco, minty

Palate: Medium bodied, high acidity, supple tannins, complex, concentrated, opulent

Finish: In a nutshell: Buy or not: Tasted: Decanting time: Glass time: When to drink: Food pairing:

Balanced, powerful, long-lasting, Average for Unico Very good price-quality ratio 3 times 3 hours 2 hours Now to 2035 Smoked duck breast with fire-roasted plum sauce

Fake factor: None Inside information: Vega Sicilia’s 2003 Unico, mainly

Tempranillo with a balancing 8% of Cabernet Sauvignon, was aged in wood for nearly seven years before being bottled, starting with 15 months in large oak vats, followed by 25 months in new barriques, before being transferred to used ones for another 17 months and ending its elevage with a further 22 months in those large wood vats again. 76 050 bottles and 2 616 magnums were filled (on the low-ish side for Unico).

Or try this: Harlan Estate 2003 Final verdict: Worth discovering

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THE BEST VEGA SICILA UNICO VINTAGES 1915–2008 96p

2004 Vega Sicilia Unico

Average auction price: Bottle Condition: Colour: Nose:

€310 A1 Youthful, bright, deep Expressive, pure, fresh, mint, herbs, spicy, tobacco leaf, vanilla, truffles

94p

Average auction price: Bottle Condition: Colour: Nose:

Palate: Well-balanced, fleshy, good structure,

described by Pablo Álvarez as a “textbook vintage”. With 97 points from Wine Advocate, it is one of the highest scoring recent vintages, praised by Neal Martin for its “haunting bouquet of dark brambly black fruit, cassis, honey, a tang of marmalade and bacon fat”. With a market price of £2000 per case of 12, the 2004 is relatively affordable a third cheaper than the 98 pointer 1998 and only 3% more expensive than the 93 point 2000. At £1800, the 95 pointer 2002 would also seem to offer good relative value.

€269 A1 Sound, clear, dark, deep Open, seductive, dried fruits, herbs, tea, earthy, tobacco, broad

Palate: Smooth, forceful, well-balanced, fruity,

moderate weight, liquorice, sweet fruit

Finish: Multi-layered, forward, clean In a nutshell: Bomb shell Buy or not: Superb value Tasted: 4 times Decanting time: 3 hours Glass time: 3 hours When to drink: Now to 2040 Food pairing: Roasted lamb served medium-rare Fake factor: None Inside information: The Vega Sicilia Unico 2004 was

2005 Vega Sicilia Unico

sweet, aromatic, appetizing, complex

Finish: Rich, horizontal, passionate, long In a nutshell: It’s coming! Buy or not: Great value Tasted: 3 times Decanting time: 3 hours Glass time: 3 hours When to drink: Now to 2035 Food pairing: Porterhouse steaks Fake factor: None Inside information: After fermentation, its goes through

what is probably the world’s longest ageing of a red wine, almost 10 years between wood and bottle. The different stages take place in different types of barrel American and French wood, new and used 225 litre barrels, 20 000 litre vats. Each batch is what determines the type of wood and the time spent in each container.

Or try this: Bond Estate St. Eden 2005 Final verdict: Sound choice

Or try this: Aalto PS 2004 Final verdict: Profound

95p

2007 Vega Sicilia Unico

Average auction price: Bottle Condition: Colour: Nose:

€234 A1 Medium-deep, brick red Rich, robust, multi-layered, blackcurrants, black olives, cedar, pencil shavings, bell pepper

Palate: Medium-bodied, mineral twist, firm tannins and ripe black fruitiness

Finish: Refined and smokey In a nutshell: Gentle power pack Buy or not: A must for your cellar Tasted: 3 times Decanting time: 3 hours Glass time: 3 hours When to drink: Now to 2035 Food pairing: Grilled beef with roasted vegetables Fake factor: None Inside information: A blend of mostly Tempranillo with

Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, Unico typically spends seven years aging in large, new and old oak casks, with three years in bottle before release. However, in 2007 that was not the case. In a stunning break from tradition, Vega-Sicilia chose to age Unico in this vintage for just 64 months, split between barrel and foudre, releasing the 2007 before the 2005. The product of very low yields and old vines, some more than 100 years old.

Or try this: Bond Estate St. Eden 2005 Final verdict: Out of the ordinary

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95p

2008 Vega Sicilia Unico

Average auction price: Bottle Condition: Colour: Nose:

€280 A1 Very dark, almost black core Youthful, elegant and complex, blackcurrants, truffles, violets

Palate: Medium-bodied, concentrated yet delicate fruit, round and velvety tannins

Finish: Energetic, rich and long-lasting with toasty vanilla tones

In a nutshell: A silky wine with very refined, classic style

Buy or not: At this price – Yes. Tasted: 2 times Decanting time: 3 hours Glass time: 3 hours When to drink: Now to 2035 Food pairing: Venison Tournedos with truffle risotto Fake factor: None Inside information: 2008 was a challenging vintage

in Ribera del Duero, a vintage marked by a severe frost on September 24th. The vineyards of Vega Sicilia were saved by some anti-frost burners, that really made the difference. There are only about 70 000 bottles of the 2008 released around March 2016 after the 2007, but much before the 2005 and 2006.

Or try this: Dominus 2008 Final verdict: Future is already here

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ing w o gr ns t e s p p te ha fas t a he wh W t , M lan So en . vel e A s i b ss e ear t: E v y a Tex t h en s e c é e r v s? r Cu he a t t in rs ige e t e s p n e su Pr pag o m w d ha et an c s e f th sés so e e i n Ro i or mb g o e t c ca ou y en h w

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prestige cuvée champagne has become an he Prestige Cuvée Rosés represent ultra allocation business where the buyers plead luxury and – in Champagne’s terms – for more. And the prices for all prestige extreme rarity. They have very little to do cuvées have skyrocketed and the prices for with the predominant fruity style of rosé top rosés today can be best described as champagne. The pink colour might suggest astronomical. a girly drink or a perfect accompaniment to Some don’t think that rosés are romantic moments. But, just the It was in 1764 worthy of the price premium. opposite. Prestige Cuvée Rosés that Ruinart Even with regular categories are the most masculine of all was already of champagne, one commonly champagnes – the ultimate manly selling rosé. pays a 20 percent premium for bubbles! They are predominantly rosé over the blanc. For prestige Pinot Noir based with the ripest cuvées, doubling or quadrupling the price and best red grapes of the region bringing is not unheard of. It is valid to ask whether colour and structure to them. The best it is the flourishing markets or the higher rosés are impressively vinous and show as costs that set the prices. Michel Davesne, wines that are highly gastronomic in which Cellar Master of Champagne Deutz, points the effervescence is a mere coincidence. out that the vinification of the red wines is With demand greatly exceeding supply,

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very difficult and very risky. His counterpart at Taittinger, Loïc Dupont, says that sourcing good raw material is almost twice as expensive as for the whites and that it is not rare to have to taste 15 samples to find two good ones. Billecart-Salmon’s Antoine Roland-Billecart reminds that there is a € 1.35 premium in kilo prices for the grapes used for red champagne wine, equalling an approximate 15-20 percent premium. Also, making an additional vinification and playing with smaller batches brings up the cost. These costs are likely to account for the higher prices of the basic rosés, but the price of the prestige cuvées are set above all by scarcity – the laws of supply and demand. Believe it or not, most of them really are

FINE Champagne

rare. Quite commonly the production of prestige cuvée rosés has been a mere five per cent of that of the blancs. For some of them, such as Pommery’s Cuvée Louise, it is even less. Cuvée Louise’s approximate production is around 200,000-300,000 bottles whereas a minimal 5,000-7,000 bottles of the rosé is made in vintage years. Some of them – read Dom Pérignon – are less rare, the production being counted in hundreds of thousands of bottles. The rosé category has thrived at intervals in history. It was in 1764 that Ruinart was already selling rosé. However, the prestige cuvée rosés are mostly a phenomenon of the 1970s and 1980s with the first vintages of Louis Roederer Cristal Rosé and Pommery Cuvée Louise Rosé having been made. Dom

Pérignon Rosé was first produced in 1959 and Taittinger’s Comtes de Champagne Rosé in 1970. Laurent-Perrier launched Grande Cuvée Alexandra Rosé in 1987 and the next year Billecart-Salmon’s Cuvée Elizabeth Salmon Rosé was created. The prestige cuvée rosés are usually made by blending 6 to 20 percent red wine of the champagne region into a white base blend. Some houses, such as Laurent-Perrier, manufacture their top rosé with the more challenging saignée (bleeding) method. The method cannot explain either quality or style, as both blending and saignée methods are able to produce excellent wines in various styles. Most houses mature the prestige cuvée rosé longer on the lees than the blanc.

Our FINE team has a long history of assessing champagnes from this category and we want to present the prestige cuvée rosés that have repeatedly charmed us. Our choices are presented in no specific order. In addition to these nine superb prestige cuvée rosés, Louis Roederer Cristal naturally belongs amongst the very finest but it is presented in detail elsewhere in this magazine.

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Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Rosé Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Rosé belongs to the pioneers of the category with the inaugural vintage dating back to 1970. The recipe for Comtes Rosé is mouth-watering: 70 percent of the blend is Pinot Noir from the best cru of the Montagne de Reims and 30 percent comprises Chardonnay from the Côte des Blancs Grand Cru. The red wine which makes the added 12 percent comes from the Grand Cru of Bouzy, where else! These ingredients guarantee the high quality of Taittinger’s output in the minimal 40,000-bottle production volume. Comtes de Champagne Rosé is all about red fruit, minerality and a firm structure. It has a nice purity and the delicious benchmark Taittinger fragrant toast. Cellar Master Loïc Dupont’s comment on the style he seeks came as a surprise. He aims to extract some structure and tannin in the rosé. The word “tannin” is a swear word in Champagne. Due to the slight phenolic bitterness of the wine as well as the shorter cellaring times for it, the Comtes de Champagne Rosé is stylistically different. Our experiences with great bottles from 1971 and 1979 shows that Comtes de Champagne Rosés are not short-lived.

92p

2006 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Rosé

The generous and plush 2006 suits Comtes Rosé perfectly, and highlights the vinous Pinot tones. The nose already has ageing Pinot characters on it with deep undergrowth, sweet cherry jam, seductive vanilla and nuanced spicy notes. Big, winey, round and velvet-textured palate that comes with invigorating freshness. Already expressive, but will reward ageing with more, wild, exuberant Pinot layers emerging over time. The suitable dose of 9g/l helps soften the Pinot phenolics

92p

2005 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Rosé

Deep cherry colour with an orange hue. Strong, deep, winey, fruit-forward and spicy nose. Rich, muscular palate with long length and a distinct, firming tannic grip to it. Still very tight, with primary fruitiness prevailing. Needs time to develop its wild, Pinot-driven, vinous characters. A powerful, characterful Comtes rosé vintage built to last.

93p

2004 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Rosé

Deep bright glossy deep cherry colour. Highly toasty and developed Pinot, cherry nose. Velvetsmooth voluptuous palate. A real crowd pleaser with a sweet but balanced dosage. Will surely improve further, but it is just so enjoyable already now.

95p

2002 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Rosé

Bright, medium-deep salmon red colour. Age-mellowed fragrant cherry fruit on the fruitforward nose. Ripe, spicy and animally, beautiful, characterful evolution. Great gastronomic palate with Burgundian grandeur. Fine acid backbone, firm and structured. Quite evolved already, drinking perfectly in 75cl bottle with some potential left.

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La Grande Dame pays tribute to the most famous widow in champagne country. After Monsieur Clicquot’s death in 1805, Madame Clicquot, who later came to be known as la Grande Dame de Champagne, took the house to high levels of notoriety since she took over the business at the age of 27. First produced in 1962, Veuve Clicquot prestige cuvée La Grande Dame is made of grapes from eight different grand crus – the very same that were used for the house’s champagnes during the widow’s times. Veuve Clicquot has a long track record of producing rosé. According to records traced at the house, the first shipments of rosé champagne left their premises in 1775, only three years after founding of the company. La Grande Dame Rosé was added to the portfolio only recently, in 1988. It was the legendary Cellar Master Jacques Peters’ creation that came from the splendid harvest conditions, increased demand for prestige wines and Monsieur Peters’ personal drive. The inaugural vintage – even today the personal favourite of Jacques Peters – was first launched in 1996. La Grande Dame Rosé shares the base wine – the skeleton – with the Blanc version, which makes it quite different from its peers. In line with the Clicquot style, the wine is made of 2/3 Pinot Noir and 1/3 Chardonnay. The rosé muscle that surround it comes from one particular vineyard, Clos Colin in the very heart of Grand Cru Bouzy – the 14 to 15 percent addition of red wine brings the unique character of La Grande Dame Rosé. The Cellar Master Dominique Demarville playfully calls this phenomenal plot the ‘Romanée-Conti of Bouzy’. The style of La Grande Dame is best described as having a firm and muscular Pinot structure with a minority of Chardonnay bringing lightness and vivacity. For the future, Demarville promises to further fine-tune La Grande Dame Rosé towards even more Pinot depth. It can be tight in youth but a few extra years of ageing will open up the strong personality of the wine. As always with strong personalities, they’re not to everybody’s liking. But those who like them, adore them. The perfect tribute paid to Madame Clicquot, La Grande Dame de Champagne.

94p

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Veuve Clicquot La Grande Dame Rosé

2006 Veuve Clicquot La Grande Dame Rosé

This wine has loads of character. The Bouzy Clos Colin red wine has a huge influence in the wine, almost hiding all resemblance to its white counterpart. Beautifully evolved style with wild, even animally characters to it. Spicy and gastronomic with beautiful succulence to it, screaming for a sturdy meat or poultry course to go with it. Velvet-smooth and caressing.

92p

2004 Veuve Clicquot La Grande Dame Rosé

Stylish, positively reductive nose with pretty berry character as well as a ripe yeasty note, bandaid and brioche. Full-on Pinot power. Generous, velvety, winey and intense but the finish brings a welcome freshness. There is something straightforward about it but it does possess innate charm. Give it time.

92p

1998 Veuve Clicquot La Grande Dame Rosé

Volnay-reminiscent, Pinot nose of forest floor, red berries, vanilla and spice. Wide and velvety, intense, soulful palate. Simply engaging. Tough to let go of the ever-changing glassful.

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Deutz Cuvée William Deutz Rosé Deutz might be one of the lesser-known Champagne brands but an up-and-coming one. Since Roederer bought the house in 1993 they have been able to increase supply of high quality grapes to manufacture two million bottles instead of the previous 600,000. The annual two million bottles are not enough to cater for everybody, so Deutz aims to reach for the stars – meaning Michelin-starred restaurants. The on-trade and superb value for money focus make Deutz wines, including the Cuvée William Deutz Rosé, wonderful sales tools for qualified sommeliers. 1959 was the birth year of the first Cuvée William Deutz. The rosé version followed as late as 1985. Since then 1990, 1996, 1999, 2000 and 2002 have been released. The rosé is a blend of 75 percent Pinot Noir and 25 percent Chardonnay, all from Grand Cru villages. The 8–9 percent red wine included in the blend comes, as opposed to usual practices, from Aÿ. As the company is situated in the village of Aÿ with most of its vineyard holdings in the neighborhood, it is no surprise they wish to reflect Aÿ characteristics in their top rosé. What is particular about their making of Cuvée William Deutz Rosé is that they use a combination of saignée (bleeding) method and blending to create the desired colour and taste. Cellar Master Michel Davesne emphasizes how difficult and risky getting the colour and fruit correct with the saignée method is. This champagne has a lovely balance of elegance, freshness and vinosity with a touch of old world charm. It lacks the polished touch of most of the Grande Marques but instead it offers a lot of personality. Unfortunately Deutz have decided to discontinue with Cuvée William Deutz replacing it with Amour de Deutz Rosé starting with the 2006 vintage. Thus, 2002 will remain the last of this gem.

89p

2002 Deutz Cuvée William Deutz Rosé

Smooth, evolving toasty nose intertwined with peach, earth and marmalade notes. It has an oldfashioned feel to it with slight oxidation and a grappa-like tone. Fresh and fleshy with palate and long finish. A character of its own but low on fruit with the recent bottles being very much on the dusty oxidative side.

91p

2000 Deutz Cuvée William Deutz Rosé

Evolved orange-hued colour. Restrained for the time being, tight nose with plenty of depth. Beautiful ripe Pinot aromas and plenty of ageing characters. Still holding back on the palate, too. Wide and finely balanced, this will become a grand CWD Rosé.

97p

1996 Deutz Cuvée William Deutz Rosé

Beautiful pale peachy colour. Overt, evolved, spicy, earthy and mineral-laden nose. Subtle, with impeccably integrated nuances. Fresh, fleshy and vinous but coming with great acid structure. Long, intense, charmingly feminine and silky-smooth. Seductive champagne with plenty of character. A super vintage of CWD Rosé.

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Pommery Cuvée Louise Rosé The Pommery house style is described by the Cellar Master Thierry Gasco as “fresh, elegant and vivacious”. It is reached mainly with a high proportion of Côte des Blancs Chardonnay in the blend. The same formula is used in the construction of the house’s white luxury blend Cuvée Louise. There are only grapes from three villages and all those put into the blend come from their own vineyards. The 60 percent share of Chardonnay comes from Avize and Cramant, the Côte des Blancs villages of the greatest elegance. The remaining Pinot Noir share originates in Aÿ. There is a minimum aging period of 6–7 years on the yeast lees, which gives the wine a lovely burnt match and toast aroma profile. The wine has a marked minerality yet the Chardonnay is mature enough to start showing its rich and creamy side. This is the essence of Cuvée Louise. The Cuvée Louise Rosé is born from that exact same base wine with an addition of 6 percent red wine from Aÿ and Bouzy. Thierry Gasco’s objective with the red wine is to give us only fruit, excluding all tannin. Pommery has a particular recipe for its dosage wine, which is always 100 percent Avize Chardonnay. The added sugar level is kept as low as possible. The Cuvée Louise Rosé is commonly dosed with a mere 5 g/l sugar. Cuvée Louise Rosé’s readiness to drink upon release is secured by a 9-month resting time in the cellar after disgorgement. This does not mean, however, that the wine would be at its prime. Thierry Gasco prefers to drink his Cuvée Louise Blanc 5–8 years after release, when possible. The rosé’s best drinking window is a bit earlier to him, some 4–5 years after release. Not many people have encountered Cuvée Louise Rosé due to its scarcity. It comprises a maximum 5 percent of Cuvée Louise’s total volume, equalling 5,000–7,000 bottles. So buy it when you see it. Typically the rosé is extremely pale in colour with the slightest apricot tinge. It is toasty, mineral and creamy. Quite an attention seeker.

96p

2000 Pommery Cuvée Louise Rosé

A gorgeous, gorgeous rosé with the palest peach colour. Lovely, enticing and restrained nose of grape fruit, peach and apple with a spicy edge and gorgeous coffee tones. Delicate autolytic complexity and mineral notes. Complex and fine with a lot of character. Tiny bubbles on the velvet-smooth and creamy palate. Drinking wonderfully but will improve over mid-term cellaring, still improving. Tasted 14 times but worryingly there have been many corky bottles.

94p

1999 Pommery Cuvée Louise Rosé

Almost white colour with the faintest golden apricot tinge. Pronounced smoky mineral nose with toffee, toast and tart red berries. Super-harmonious, smooth palate with intense and strong flavour that lingers on and on. Easily approachable charmer whose colour would have suggested much more delicate a wine. Round and easy-going vintage with a medium-term capacity.

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Ruinart Dom Ruinart Rosé Dom Ruinart Rosé is a fascinating champagne. Cellar Master Frederic Panaïotis calls it playfully ‘Blanc de Blancs Rosé’ as it is made from the Dom Ruinart Blanc de Blancs base wine. The white Dom Ruinart differs a great deal from your usual Côte des Blancs blanc de blancs, since the style is crafted from both Côte des Blancs and Montagne de Reims Chardonnay. It is extremely pure and highly reductionist in style, due to which it can be quite hard to tackle when young. The Ruinart style is all about freshness, elegance and terroir at its purest, highlighting the fruity and floral aromatics. To Panaïotis, the Dom Ruinart Rosé needs even more time to develop than the blanc. Therefore it is kept on the lees longer than its white pair. The Chardonnay base is blended with 14–16 percent red wine mainly from Verzeney and Verzy. They do a longer, approximately 10-day maceration for the Pinot Noir grapes, wishing to gain some structure and even a slight touch of tannin. The wine is dosed with 7–8 g/l sugar and kept to recover from the shock of disgorgement for 6–12 months. The house is one of the internationally lesser known, due to smaller production volumes. However, it is highly esteemed by wine lovers and sommeliers. The latter have gotten to know the house inside out via the prestigious Trophée Ruinart sommelier competition the house used to host for years. The connoisseurs love the Ruinart style and their wonderful habit of ageing the prestige cuvées for a minimum of ten years. Despite that, I still find Dom Ruinart to require a few more years’ bottle ageing after release. The Dom Ruinart Rosé is an elegant yet vinous and mineral wine. It has a touch of Pinot muscle over its fine skeleton of Chardonnay. Nuanced with delicious, gentle aromas of toffee, coffee and spices.

96p

2002 Ruinart Dom Ruinart Rosé

Medium-deep salmon peachy colour. Refined, coffee nose with perfumy floral toasty notes. Surprisingly cool and breezy, vigorous for the vintage with vegetal notes. Notably on the reductive side with tight gunpowdery power and restraint. Crisp, firm, linear and fresh. A touch of phenolics on the back palate. Long and tight finish. Highly youthful for the time being. Superb for the long term.

93p

1998 Ruinart Dom Ruinart Rosé

Deep peach-hued salmon colour. Little sulphur in the nose in gunpowdery form, a light reductive whiff. Raspberry, confectionary, toast, peat, lychee and spices. Fresh and lively palate with good energy. Fine mousse and good succulent length. Ageing rather slowly, still tight but increasingly elegant.

97p

1996 Ruinart Dom Ruinart Rosé

Deep peach-hued onionskin colour. Ethereal fragrant nose with minerality, cherry and herbs, figs, cream, toast and undergrowth. Lots of character and depth. Refined nose with plenty of personality. Vinous and viscous on the concentrated, smooth silky palate. Elegant and evolved. Irresistible today but keeps on improving.

93p

1990 Ruinart Dom Ruinart Rosé

Deep orange-hued colour. Seductive, soft, toffee, dried apricot, coffee and leather nose. Quite a bit on the animally side. Voluptuous, full-bodied but not heavy. Velvety, seamless and long. Power and precision. Chambolle-Musigny with bubbles. The bottles seem rather mature now but magnums are still full of life (96p).

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Laurent-Perrier Alexandra Rosé There seem to be no rules of thumb at the house of Laurent-Perrier. In a true Champenois spirit they are great believers and masters in blending. Grand Siècle was one of the first vintage-blended prestige cuvées at the time of its launch in 1960 (from 1952, 1953 and 1955 vintages). Since then they have made three exceptions to that and produced Grand Siècle Millésimé from individual sublime vintages. However, that fun is now over and there are no more single vintage Grand Siècles to come. However, as an exception confirming the rule, the prestige cuvée rosé of Laurent-Perrier – Grand Siècle Alexandra – is a vintage champagne. The wine was tailored for the wedding celebrations of Bernard de Nonancourt’s oldest daughter Alexandra, held in 1987. The first vintage was the 1982 and since then we have witnessed the 1985, 1990, 1995, 1997, 1998 and 2004. It was Bernard de Nonancourt who crafted the house style towards the elegance with a significant Chardonnay emphasis. Contrastingly again, the Grand Siècle Alexandra Rosé has nothing to do with that style. It is a highly vinous rosé made from 80 percent Pinot Noir and 20 percent Chardonnay, sourced from the ten top Grand Cru villages of the region. Contrary to most rosés of the region it is made with the demanding saignée method where the Pinot Noir grapes are macerated until the right colour and aroma are achieved. This can take anywhere from 12 to 72 hours, and according to hearsay the previous Laurent-Perrier Cellar Master used to sleep next to the vats to be able to take the wines off the skins at the exact right time. The wine is kept in the cellars from 7 to 10 years. The sediment is guided to the bottleneck by hand-riddling as the flacon bottle shape does not allow for mechanical riddling. Laurent-Perrier use the same Alexandra wine for the dosage as well, the amount of sugar being customarily around 10–11 g/l. Following that the wine is given a minimum three to six months’ rest in the cellar. The result is one of the most vinous and exciting rosés. Texture-wise it is as smooth as velvet, the Grand Siècle Alexandra is spicy and muscular with dried fruit, red berries and caramel sweetness. Delicious.

95p

2004 Laurent-Perrier Alexandra Rosé

Elegantly berried with Volney-like refined Pinot note. On the reductive side with stylish toastygunpowdery notes. Raspberry and peach, forest floor. Light-weight, vivacious, tense palate. Super sophisticated style of rosé. Youthful still, and especially the magnums should be left for later.

95p

1998 Laurent-Perrier Alexandra Rosé

Charmingly harmonious and elegantly spicy floral nose. Toffee, red fruit, leather, tobacco leaf and toasty notes. So much character! Velvety, vinous and round wine. Fine mousse and very mild tannic presence. Long-lasting finish with perfectly integrated silky mousse and lemony acidity. At a sublime point right now with the irresistible combination of youthful fruit and energy tied to beautiful evolving aromas and emerging mellowness.

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Krug Rosé At Krug the perfection in the glass comes always with a great story. My mission in Champagne many years back was rosé. At Krug, Rémi Krug was apparently ‘dragged out of retirement’ for one more afternoon to share his stories with us. His tales are marvellous, ever engaging and full of witty opinion. But simultaneously it can be very challenging to get one question in during an entire lunch. Olivier Krug playfully smiled at me later on in the day when I told him I had gotten only two questions asked. The first one I managed to squeeze in was something as intellectual and specific as: ‘How about the story of Krug Rosé?’ Luckily that was enough and plenty more for what I was after. Apparently the history goes back to the early 1970s when Rémi Krug was travelling around the world talking about Krug. He recognised a change in society. Previously the preference for certain brands had run down in families, the father instructing the children in, for example, which champagnes to buy. But he noticed a whole clientele forming out of nowhere, changing the game. It could be anybody from celebrities onwards who would tell people which things are the best. And Rémi had to think about addressing a whole new clientele for Olivier’s generation and his descendants. Rosé was the emerging “must have” for champagne and Rémi returned suggesting they make one too. Apparently the winemaker brother Henri was not keen on the idea as rosés were very much used for clichéd occasions such as Valentine’s Day and there was not a serious wine connotation. Krug even considered not having a rosé to be a little bit ‘chic’. According to Rémi’s words one cannot force Henri into anything. Soon he forgot to continue to push for the rosé, giving up on the idea. Sounding so not Rémi, the idea was buried until Henri apparently said in 1976: “Do you still dream about the rosé? We could try one this year.” 2,000–3,000 experimental bottles were made and the wine was first released in 1983. The blended red wine part came from their own vineyards in Aÿ. The Krug lovers insisted for a Grande Cuvée style of wine. Therefore what they aimed for was “something Krug, yet something spicy with a Volnay-style red fruitiness”. They didn’t want to overdo the wine but aimed more towards an understatement, “Something vinous, even vulgar”. “The rosé is the most challenging wine to make, on a par with the Grande Cuvée. It is also the most rewarding one as it is such a constructed wine with most human intervention.” Rémi Krug explained: “The compliments for Clos du Mesnil and the vintage we have to share with God…” Rémi Krug is known to hate technical questions especially when it comes down to grape variety proportions and the like. So I did not wish to waste my second question on that. Instead I got more information from Olivier Krug later on in the evening: The rosé is not a pink Grande Cuvée but a wine made on its own merits from a richness of terroirs in the Krug manner. The red wine base comes from vineyards in Aÿ and Mareuil-sur-Aÿ. There is less reserve wine influence than in the Grande Cuvée and the wine is aged on the lees for a less extended time, 4–6 years, to preserve the fresh red fruit tone. Stylistically it is very Krug: toasty, vinous and perfected.

93p

Krug Rosé NV (2007 base)

The 2007 base rosé is delightfully firm and fresh showing its usual ripe red fruit opulence complemented by a charming spicy edge. The long after taste echoes dried fruit sweetness, vanilla and subtle oaky spiciness. Charming already today but will develop into a beautifully Burgundian richness and satin smoothness. (Krug ID 413067).

100

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FINE Champagne

Billecart-Salmon Cuvée Elisabeth Salmon Rosé Billecart-Salmon’s phenomenal cleanliness, fruit purity and technical perfection are the reason why we rank the Cuvée Elisabeth Salmon among the best prestige cuvée rosés. No question about it, one of the main reasons for this style is the double cold settling the house has practised since the 1950s. With this technique the must is cleaned very gently, without pumping, filtration or centrifuging. The first fermentation is carried out at unusually low temperatures for champagne, between 13–14ºC. Antoine Roland-Billecart states it is done “in order to preserve the terroir characteristics and all interesting material originating in the vines”. Around 15 percent share of the blend is fermented in used Burgundy barrels. There is no racking done after the first fermentation, so the wines remain on fine lees for 5–6 months with occasional batonnage taking place. Cuvée Elisabeth Salmon, first produced as recently as 1988, is a 50/50 blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir into which around nine percent Pinot Noir red wine is added. The grapes for the red wine originate in their own vineyards in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, Aÿ and Ambonnay. Eight people on the sorting belt ensure the quality of the raw material and that the grapes are 100 percent destemmed and crushed and left to macerate until the right colour is achieved. No structure or tannin are welcome in the wine. Just fruit and colour. The result is one of the most elegant prestige cuvée rosés. It is sensuous and delicate with an amazingly smooth silky texture accompanied by the gentlest mousse.

93p

2002 Billecart-Salmon Cuvée Elisabeth Salmon Rosé

A perfect combination of power and elegance. Bright fruity, peachy style with spicy-mineral complexity. Gorgeously linear, driven palate full of energy. Hallmark Billecart velvet-smooth mousse. A great vintage of Cuvée Elizabeth Salmon. Superbly pure and linear. Epitome of elegance.

93p

2000 Billecart-Salmon Cuvée Elisabeth Salmon Rosé

Medium-deep colour turning towards onionskin. Fine fruity nose of peaches and baking spices. Round and voluptuous on the palate with bright, pure fruitiness and a wonderfully juicy mouth-feel. Lots of character, the layered aroma profile and the wine’s caressing, silky texture bring on the charm. It has developed further elegance over time in the form of outstanding harmony and seamlessness.

94p

1996 Billecart-Salmon Cuvée Elisabeth Salmon Rosé

Medium-deep peachy-bronze colour. A truly enticing Cuvée Elisabeth Salmon in its toasty opulence, precise Pinot fruit and spicy-mineral layers. Gourmand style with super finely crafted texture of the finest mousse and silky smoothness. Sheer pleasure.

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FINE Champagne

Dom Pérignon Rosé Dom Pérignon is a wine that needs no introduction. What seems to be gaining more attention – and hopefully volume too – is the rosé. Dom Pérignon is a misunderstood wine. It is a reductive, mineral and subtle wine, finetuned and complete, but years away from its full glory. However, the rosé is another story, since the ripe Pinot Noir red wine component seems to bring the wine more forward in youth. The Dom Pérignon style comes above all from blending. The approximate 50/50 blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes is sourced from all over the region’s best vineyards thanks to the enviable LVMH resources. According to the Cellar Master Richard Geoffroy, the Pinot Noir is the limiting component keeping down the production figures. He seeks to minimise tannin, welcoming very little elements of bitterness in the wine. Even though the blend of varieties is the same as for the white Dom Pérignon, he emphasises that it is not a pink version of the wine. It is a highly vinous, Pinot powered style. To him, they are ‘like sister and brother, very different accomplishments’. And some accomplishments they are, especially the inaugural vintage made by Geoffroy, the 1990. It is sheer perfection, one of the finest champagnes I have ever encountered. The Dom Pérignon Rosé was first produced from the vintage 1959. Based on the visionary character of Richard Geoffroy and his love for mature champagnes, it is no wonder that he has launched late-disgorged rosés P2s and P3s.

93p

2005 Dom Pérignon Rosé

The 2005 DP Rosé is quite a beast with 27 percent red wine. Strong, spicy and firm character, still in a youthful berry exuberant face but lurking to reveal its wild, winey and Burgundian side. Not shy to show its ripe phenolic tones and concentrated, voluptuous qualities. In the same genre with the masculine, vinous 2003.

94p

2004 Dom Pérignon Rosé

The 2004 DP Rosé is just as charming as one would have expected. The elegance and vivacity of the vintage take a leading role sublimely complemented by exuberantly toasty, smoky notes. Lovely pinot depth, spicy and vanilla-laden. Tight and linear, tense palate with satiny texture and refined, extensive length. A super elegant Dom Pérignon Rosé, in a classic cool style.

93p

2003 Dom Pérignon Rosé

Deeply fruity, beautifully spicy, and soothingly evolved nose screaming ripe Pinot plushness. Polished, pristinely fruity nose with a pretty gunpowdery touch. Strong, big palate coming with a notion of tannin. Blockbuster, winey, muscular style with the hallmark 2003 fluffy mousse. Less complexity than usual, a deep, winey vintage. Superb for 2003 but falls short to the greatest Dom Pérignon Rosés.

96p

2002 Dom Pérignon Rosé

This is sheer style. Lovely spice-lined nose, full of plush developing Pinot fruit with forest floor depth. DP’s usual gunpowdery toast is elegantly present. Bold yet linear, fruity palate with superb vivacity. Very long and compact, full of perfectly pure, succulent fruit. Still highly young but superb. In magnum the wine is still immensely restrained with reductive, gunpowdery characters on the surface. The magnums still belong in the cellar.

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F I N E Ta s t i n g

LOUIS ROEDERER CRISTAL CHAMPAGNE

ristal was developed for the Tsar Alexander II in the 19th century to mark Roederer’s status as the official purveyor to the Imperial Court of Russia. Cristal’s splendour is seeded in the 250 odd hectares of vineyards of the champagne region that are marked as owned by Roederer – this is a lion’s share of the vineyards that produce Cristal. The vineyard team at Roederer are involved in good practices in the vineyards like targeted manuring at the start of the season; pruning to restrict yields; crown suckering of fruit-bearing shoots to remove excess clusters; green harvesting to improve the quality of the yield. Unflagging attention, frequent quality controls, painstaking work of the growers: all contribute to exceptionally healthy grapes from vines that are more than 25 years old and are capable of yielding great wines. They produce a base wine of 1 degree more potential alcohol compared to the purchased grapes. A blend of the finest Grands Crus from the Montagne de Reims, the Vallée de la Marne and the Côte des Blancs, Cristal is produced only in the finest years. Roederer blends its prestigious Cristal from 60-65 base wines based on blind tasting only. One of Cristal’s secrets lies is in its non-malolactic nature and the regular oak bâtonnage. Roederer seeks the highest possible acidity, which combines to create a perfectly ripe fruitiness. The wine is left to mature on lees in the cellars for about 6 years and left for a minimum of 8 months after disgorgement to attain the perfect maturity. Cristal is one of those rare champagnes that truly blossom after long bottle ageing. Early consumption is considered by many as infanticide, since the wine really reveals its true character after 20-30 years ageing and evolves beautifully decades after that.

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

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Roederer Cristal 1953–2009

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Louis Roederer Cristal Brut 2009

94 p

Louis Roederer Cristal Brut 2007

94p

Louis Roederer Cristal Brut 2006

93 p

Louis Roederer Cristal Brut 2005

94 p

Louis Roederer Cristal Brut 2004

96 p

Louis Roederer Cristal Brut 2002

98 p

Louis Roederer Cristal Brut 2000

97 p

Louis Roederer Cristal Brut 1999

93 p

Louis Roederer Cristal Brut 1997

96 p

Louis Roederer Cristal Brut 1995

94 p

Louis Roederer Cristal Brut 1994

91 p

Louis Roederer Cristal Brut 1993

92 p

Louis Roederer Cristal Brut 1990

96 p

Louis Roederer Cristal Brut 1989

95 p

Louis Roederer Cristal Brut 1988

97 p

Louis Roederer Cristal Brut 1986

93 p

Louis Roederer Cristal Brut 1985

92 p

Louis Roederer Cristal Brut 1982

98 p

Louis Roederer Cristal Brut 1979

97 p

Louis Roederer Cristal Brut 1976

99 p

Louis Roederer Cristal Brut 1975

95 p

Louis Roederer Cristal Brut 1974

95 p

Louis Roederer Cristal Brut 1971

94 p

Louis Roederer Cristal Brut 1969

98 p

Louis Roederer Cristal Brut 1966

97 p

Louis Roederer Cristal Brut 1962

97 p

Louis Roederer Cristal Brut 1961

99 p

Louis Roederer Cristal Brut 1955

97 p

Louis Roederer Cristal Brut 1953

97 p

Louis Roederer Cristal Brut Rosé 2006

95 p

Louis Roederer Cristal Brut Rosé 2000

94p

Louis Roederer Cristal Brut Rosé 1995

98 p

Louis Roederer Cristal Brut Rosé 1982

96 p

Louis Roederer Cristal Brut Rosé 1979

94 p

2009

94p

2007

93p

2006

94p

2005

F I N E Ta s t i n g

LOUIS ROEDERER CRISTAL BRUT

94p

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109

96p

98p

97p

110

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2004

2002

93p

1999

96p

1997

97p

1996

94p

1995

2000

1994

93p

1986

92p

1985

92p

1993

98p

1982

96p

1990

97p

1979

96p

1977

99p

1976

95p

1975

95p

97p

F I N E Ta s t i n g

91p

1989

1988

This vintage started the 3-year consecutive span of great vintages. Classical year of powerful and fruity wines, the acidity of which makes them very fine and long-lived. As Cristal is a true vin de garde, this magnificent 1988 is still waiting to reach its full potential. Blend of 55% Pinot Noir and 45% Chardonnay. Developed deep colour with beige tinge and a hint of cloudiness. Ripe delicious nose with honey, raisins, orange marmalade. Fruit-driven, nutty and citrus nose with layers and layers showing after some time in the glass. Some development especially in the nose but the palate remains slightly restrained and packed with future potential. Razor-sharp acidic spine brings elegance and a feeling of lightness to this very concentrated wine with amazing length and depth. The wine is just approaching its prime drinking age, but could definitely benefit from a long bottle-cellaring.

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95p

1974

94p

1971

98p

112

1955

97p

1953

1969

97p

1966

97p

1962

99p

1961

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

97p

2006

94p

2000

98p

1995

96p

1982

94p

1979

F I N E Ta s t i n g

LOUIS ROEDERER CRISTAL BRUT ROSÃ&#x2030;

95p

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

113

The fine Wine

200 Index

The world’s only independent fine wine index that measures the price development of the world’s finest and most drinkable wines from 1865–2009 vintages.

114

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

€800 000

€749 164

€700 000

FINE Inve sting

Fine Wine 200 Index

€630 200

€600 000 €505 932 €451 810

€450 000

€424 586

€302 787

€300 000 €204 148

€150 000

2002

2005

2008

2009

The Fine Wine 200 Index represents the price movement of 200 of the most desirable fine and rare wines, which are highly drinkable today and for which there is a very robust and solid secondary market. The index is calculated quarterly. The majority of the wines in the index consists of Bordeaux (51,5%) wines from 1865-2003 vintages, and also includes Burgundy wines (19%) from 1923-1999, Rhone wines (7%) from 1961-1999, Champagne (6,5%) from 1961-1996, wines of California (5.5%) from 1974-2001, wines of Italy (3%) from 1971-2001, wines of Portugal (2.5%) from 1945-1997, wines of Australia (2,5%) from 1971-1996 and wines of Spain (2.5%) from 1953-1999. The FINE Wine 200 Index is calculated using the average price of the fine wines sold in over 20 most important wine auction houses of the world and then weighted to account for original production levels and growing scarcity as the wine ages. The price information given in this index tells the reader the average price of the wine paid at the biggest auctions, worldwide. It is based on information, collected by FINE Publishing, of the wines’ selling prices in the auctions that were held over the two decades between 1996 and

2010

2011

2013

2014

2016

2016. The price differences can be considerable between one auction and another, so the calculated average price given here is simply illustrative and should be taken only as suggestive, not as ultimate truth. A price given with a wine is the average auction price of a singular estatebottled wine, in good condition. The price of a wine in outstanding condition and with a good storage history is usually higher and, correspondingly, the price of a wine in poorer condition and with unknown storage history lower than the given average price. The price we have given does not include auction costs, varying between 8% 25% of the price depending on the auction. For the consumer, the auction prices usually tell the lowest price paid for the wine. When buying wine from a wine store, the prices are generally 30% to 200% higher than the prices at auctions we have listed in this index. However there are some wine stores, specially in Europe, which often purchase wine straight from private individuals and because of this they can sometimes even price their wines below auction prices. Sales in currencies other than euros are converted to euros as of the date of the sale.

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

115

Fine Wine 200 Index

Bordeaux

Burgundy €349 210

€350 000

€350 000 €307 314

€300 000

€233 273

€225 000

€252 086

€192 658

€214 186 €187 330

€185 121

€150 000

€243 039

€205 975

€225 000

€150 000

€157 658

€108 507

€75 000

€101 609

2002

€75 000

2005

2008

2009

2010

2014

2016

2002

Champagne

2008

2009

2010

€50 000

€12 000

€11 076

€10 915

€11 525

€17 234

€9646

€9 000

2016

€40 000

€30 000

€27 650

€29 673

€30 280

€19 474

€20 000

€5474

€16 256

€10 000

€2798

2002

2014

€45 311

€27 741

€6 000

116

2005

Rest of the World

€20 000

€3 000

€75 027

2005

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

2008

2009

2010

2014

2016

2002

2005

2008

2009

2010

2014

2016

FINE Inve sting

Fine Wine 200 Index

Auction results coverage 1996–2016 Edward Roberts International Chicago, US Artus Associés Paris, FR Christie’s London, GB Wermuth S.A. Zürich, CH Christie’s New York, US Sotheby’s London, GB Acker Merrall & Condit New-York, US Acker Merrall & Condit HK Chassaing-Rivet-Fournié Toulouse, FR Tajan Paris,FR Koppe & Partner Düsseldorf, DE Sotheby’s New York, US Christie’s Amsterdam, NL Lawsons Sydney, AU Butterfield & Butterfield San Francisco, US Lombrail-Teucquam Paris, FR Christie’s HK Steinfels Weinauktionen Zürich,CH Zachys-Christie’s New York, US Sotheby’s Chicago, US Christie’s Los Angeles, US Langton’s Sydney, AU Sterling Auctioneers Perth, AU Morrell & Company New York, US Butterfield & Butterfield Los Angeles, US Winebid.com US uVine.com UK Besch Cannes Auction FR

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

117

Fine Wine 200 Index

118

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

Conterno Barolo Monfortino 1971

Masseto

1978

1997

Angelo Gaja Sort Tildin 1990

1994

2001

Sassicaia

Italy

1985

Quinta do Noval Nacional 1963

FINE Inve sting

Fine Wine 200 Index

Graham Vintage Port

1997

1945

Taylor Vintage Port 1945

Port Château Petrus

Château Mouton Rothschild

1945

1947

1952

1961

1900

1924

1945

1949

1970

1975

1982

1989

1959

1961

1982

1986

1996

2000

1990

1998

2000

Château Lafite

Château Latour

1870

1945

1953

1959

1928

1929

1945

1949

1961

1982

1986

1996

1959

1961

1970

1982

2000

2003

1990

2000

Château Cheval Blanc 1921

1929

1947

1961

1964

1982

1990

2000

Château Ausone 2000

2005

Château d’Yquem 1865

1900 1967

1921

1990

1945 2001

Château Latour-à-Pomerol 1947

Bordeaux

1961

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

119

Fine Wine 200 Index Château Haut-Brion 1929

1945 1989

1959 2000

Château Margaux 1961

1900

1982

1950 1982

1961 1990

1961

1990

Château Lafleur 1947

1945 1996

2000

Château la Mission Haut-Brion 1975

1945

2000

1949 1961

Château Clinet

1955 1989

1959 2000

Château Leoville-Las Cases

1989

1982

Château l’Évangile

1986

Château Palmer 1945

1961

Château Pichon-Lalande

Château Trotanoy

1982

1961

Château Haut-Brion Blanc

Château Montrose

1998

Bordeaux

Dom Perignon 1961

1973

1979

1982

1990

Krug Vintage

1996

1976

Krug Clos du Mesnil

1979

1985

1979

1969

1979

Champagne FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

1997

Roederer Cristal

Salon

120

1982

1990

Jaboulet Hermitage La Chapelle 1961

1978

Guigal La Mouline

1990

1978

Guigal La Turque 1999

FINE Inve sting

Fine Wine 200 Index 1985

Jayer H. Echezeaux

1985

1978

1985

Chave Hermitage

Chave Hermitage Cuvée Cathelin

1990

Guigal La Landonne

Jayer H. Richebourg

1978

Rayas CNDP Reserve 1978

1990

1985

Beaucastel CNDP Hommage à Jacques Perrin

Rhone

DRC Romanee-Conti

1990

DRC La Tache

1923

1929

1937

1945

1934

1945

1962

1971

1959

1962

1971

1978

1985

1989

1990

1985

1989

1990

1999

DRC Montrachet 1985

1989

1999

DRC Richebourg 1985

1999

Coche-Dury Corton-Charlemagne

Domaine Lefaive Montrachet

1989

1996

Domaine Leroy Musigny

Roumier Georges Musigny

1996

1978

Burgundy

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

121

Fine Wine 200 Index Domaine des Comets Lafon Montrachet

Domaine Dugat-Py Chambertin V.V.

1992

1999

Domaine Leroy LatriciĂ¨res Chambertin 1991

Domaine Comte Georges de Vogue Musigny V.V.

Burgundy

Screaming Eagle 1992

1994

1997

1947

Harlan Estate 2002

1994

1997

2001

Abreu Madrona Ranch

Bryant Family Cabernet Sauvignon

1997

1992

Heitz Marthaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Vineyard

Maya Dalla Valle

1974

1992

Shafer Hillside Select 1994

California Penfiolds Grange 1971

1976

1986

Henschke Hill of Grace 1998

1998

Three Rivers Shiraz 1996

Australia Pingus 1999 122

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

Vega Sicilia Unico 1953

Spain

1962

1968

1970

FINE Inve sting

Fine Wine 200 Index TOP PERFORMERS

196

135

106

117

167 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

123

Fine Wine 200 Index TOP PERFORMERS

124

165

160

163

185

138

136

152

191

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

FINE Inve sting

Fine Wine 200 Index POOR PERFORMERS

199

Three Rivers Shiraz 1996

198

102

83 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

125

Fine Wine 200 Index POOR PERFORMERS

126

130

176

174

178

172

188

181

146

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

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