A Visit to Bordeaux

It’s smaller, sunnier, the architecture is mellow: neoclassical masterpieces span three centuries which gives a coherence and consistency to the overall look - as well as a UNESCO listing. It’s home to the most wonderful wine bars, surrounded by the most amazing vineyards. There are far less cars, thanks to a tram system and Mayor Alain Juppé’s support for promoting cycling. It’s cosmopolitan and has a happy and relaxed vibe.

Finding your way round

Bordeaux’s tram service is terrific. Easy to use, cheap and efficient. And, if you arrive by train, you can hop on a tram right outside the station (use the ticket machines or buy a book of tickets (carnet), in the Relay shop in the station).

The Roman legacy

The Romans called the city Burdigala and there are remains of their presence, from the ruins of an amphitheatre known locally as ‘Le Palais Gallien’ to towers hidden inside buildings. They started off importing wine from Italy and Spain but in 1AD, the Romans began planting a grape species called Biturica, the ancestor of Cabernet Franc.

Maison Gobineau

You can’t walk more than a few steps in the city without reminders of that monumental decision the Romans took - there are wine bars everywhere. It’s hard knowing which one to choose but the locals say, “Maison Gobineau is magnifique”. Inside stained glass windows, an Aubusson tapestry behind the bar, rack upon rack of bottles and a very long wine list menu on which the price of “2 Euros a glass” can cause visitors to break out in smiles.

The barman will throw in a potted history of Bordeaux wines for free. Did you know that there are about 9000 wine makers in the region and each make an average of 2-3 varieties? If you only go to one wine bar (which would be tough on you) go to this one, it’s terrific.

Must-sees

In the 18th century, rich city merchants erected fabulous buildings in the neoclassical style. Today they contribute to Bordeaux’s status as a UNESCO world heritage centre. All around you, the magnificent architecture is truly impressive. The Opera National de Bordeaux is a veritable landmark in a city of landmarks.

Miroir d’Eau, a water sculpture in front of the impressive Place de la Bourse draws people day and night to marvel at and enjoy it, kids splash in the water and cool down in the misty spray.

The great door or the Cathedral of Notre Dame in Paris was modelled on the doors of the 11th century Cathedral of Bordeaux. Here Eleanor of Aquitaine married Louis VII in 1137. In the 14th century, Bordeaux’s Archbishop became Pope Clement V and moved the seat of Papal rule from Rome to Avignon.

UNESCO listed churches on the Camino de Santiago You’ll see little brass floor plates as you walk through the city indicating that you’re on the Way of St James (Camino de Santiago). There are 3 UNESCO listed churches on the route.

Don’t miss the magnificent Cité du Vin, a superb wine museum with innovative displays, high tech marvels, a most fabulous wine tasting area with panoramic views over the city. The superb wine store and gift shop are also terrific.

There are several markets in Bordeaux but if flea markets are your thing, the weekly Puces de St Michel will thrill with its vintage, antiques, books and more (Sunday morning).

When your legs are weary from walking the streets of this wonderful city, just hop on a boat and take a tour to admire Bordeaux from its river, said to be one of the cleanest in Europe.

Eating out in Bordeaux City With more than 3,000 restaurants it’s not easy to know which are the best but these names crop up from locals’ recommendations time and time again:

Locals lunch: Le Petit Commerce: traditional, friendly, great menu and full of French people in the know. 22 Rue Parlement Saint-Pierre

Locals love: Braderie Bordelaise: “a taste of Bordeaux” is how the locals described it. If you’re a steak frites fan, you will never taste better than here.

Locals new love: Seven at Cité du Vin: the 7th floor restaurant at the wine museum has a fabulous menu, brilliant wine list and absolutely stunning view over the city. It’s open for lunch, dinner, afternoon tea and any time for a glass of wine!

www.bordeaux-tourisme.com: Stop here first for a map, to book tours and find out what’s on.

Take the fast train from Paris to Bordeaux and arrive in just over two hours.

By Janine Marsh