Evocative Arundel

The town

Arundel is presided over by two grand dames: the magnificent medieval castle and stately home, and the 19th century cathedral, both keeping a watchful eye on the town which bustles with life around its many listed and period buildings.

But however familiar you are with Arundel’s splendour, the unexpected magnificence of the castle as you round the bend at the top of the High Street never fails to elicit a quiet gasp.

Mixture fortunes

Although there are traces of the early Romans here, Arundel really grew and evolved as a Saxon town. With a flourishing market and port, it unsurprisingly appears in the Domesday.

Over the centuries, the town has had mixed fortunes. During the English Civil War Arundel Castle changed hands three times and by the late 18th century the town was run down and poor. But, not to be kept down, Arundel was flourishing once more by the early 19th century with two thriving breweries and a timber trade. In fact, the port here didn’t finally close until the early 20th century.

A potter through the streets

Steep, ancient and twisting, Arundel is now home to bookshops, bric-a-brac, tea rooms, antiques and art. There’s architecture of all ages with a large proportion of buildings being either listed or of historic interest. On a sunny, late spring day, it’s busy and yet feels hushed and calm, with the occasional cry of a seagull.

There are numerous tunnels and cellars under the High Street and Tarrant Street, although none leading into or out of the castle grounds…as far as they know! The town hall has high vaulted ceilings and gothic archways and the old town jailhouse is now a notorious “ghost experience”.

Arundel even has its own saint, St Philip Howard, whose Tudor bones are enshrined within the cathedral and of course, its own coat of arms, with three black martlets or heraldic swallows on a silver shield.

And as you build up an appetite as you stroll around, you find yourself torn between Roly’s Fudge Pantry, Belinda’s 16th Century Restaurant, the Jam Gallery (sadly lacking in jam) and the delightfully named Tea and Biscuit Club!

Arundel castle

The castle itself dates back to 1067, and it still has a number of original features including a Norman Keep and a medieval gatehouse. It’s been owned by the family of the Duke of Norfolk for over 800 years and much of the house was rebuilt by them between the 1870s and 90s - in magnificent Gothic style.

Although it’s only open between April and October, it’s a visit not to be missed. You can climb the turret, enjoy works of art by the likes of Gainsborough and Van Dyke and take in the sumptuous gardens.

Arundel Cathedral

The cathedral was commissioned by the fifteenth Duke of Norfolk in 1868. The architect, Joseph Hansom, who designed many other religious and secular buildings, is best known for inventing the Hansom Cab. You pass the cathedral on your way into the town from the north, but some of the best views of it are from the bypass below.

Arundel Wetland Centre and the Black Rabbit

You’re not short of beautiful countryside to explore in this part of the world, with the South Downs at your fingertips. The River Arun runs through the town and just a 10-minute walk along its banks brings you to the Arundel Wetland Centre. Here you can enjoy boat safaris, walks along the reed bed boardwalk and views of an array of wildlife.

Keep walking another 10 minutes and you come to the Black Rabbit with its bistro style tables spilling out onto the banks of the river, with the castle’s silhouette shimmering romantically in the distance.

Fiesta

Arundel has an exciting calendar of events throughout the year which includes the Arundel Arts Festival, Arundel Food Festival, Arundel Cathedral’s Feast of Corpus Christi and magnificent Carpet of Flowers all of which are worth every minute.

Arundel manages to feel like it’s a little off the beaten track and caught in its own time. Yet it still has a vibrant community and so much to offer and see. So, if you find yourself looking for a cultural and diverse day out, you could do a lot worse than by starting here.