Net Magazine 窶連weoweo
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Net Magazine ‘Aweoweo
Net Magazine ‘Aweoweo Issue #0 Summer 2014
Contributors
Óscar Germade Teresa Marinho Diego Iniguez Andrea Murnik Marcin Bednarz Agata Sosnowska Igor Zdziarska
Thanks to
Óscar Germade Teresa Marinho Diego Iniguez Andrea Murnik Marcin Bednarz Agata Sosnowska Igor Zdziarski
About the cover
Gyotaku is the traditional method of Japanese fish printing, dating from the mid-1800s. This form of nature printing may have been used by fishermen to record their catches, but has also become an artform on its own. In the earliest nature prints, inks or pigments were applied directly to the relief surface leaves and/or other relatively flat natural subjects in order to capture images of their sizes, shapes, surface textures, and delicate vein or scale patterns. Typically both sides of a leaf were coated with ink and the leaf was then placed inside a folded sheet or between two sheets of paper. When rubbed by hand or run through a printing press a mirror image was produced of the topside and underside of the same leaf. Often the prints were done in black ink and the flowers later painted or drawn in by the artist. In other cases a flattened, dried leaf or plant was coated once with black ink and then repeatedly printed in a printing press. The initial dark print was used as a work copy or proof print. The subsequent prints, with fainter traces of ink, were hand colored to more closely resemble the appearance of the real subjects. This methodology is generally applicable to making a print from a fish. They also used wood and carved images into that.
NET MAGAZINE
08002 Barcelona / Spain tel. +34 656 196 528 info@netmag.com www.net-mag.com
Letter from the editor Somebody just back of you while you are fishing is as bad as someone looking over your shoulder while you write a letter to your girl. For those who are curious about fishing, but never seem to have any luck, here are a few simple guidelines to follow which will have you reeling them in in no time. Catching fish can be really easy to do if one has the correct equipment, location, weather and presentation. First, when fishing, equipment is very important. It would not be prudent to bring knife to a gunfight and fishing is just the same. When catching 500 lb. swordfish in saltwater it is important to not bring an ultra-light fly rod. The first step to having the correct equipment is identifying the species to be targeted. Let’s say the target is black bass. Sincerly, Aggy 3
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Iceland Travel www.ice-tavel.com
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Contributors Agata Zdziarska
Teresa Marinho
Pau Bonet
Creative designer and art director. Aggy has long hair and likes everything that has to do with water.
Photographer Teresa is passionate about analogue cameras. In her free time she talks about Porto and smokes cigarettes.
Light assistant Pau has made a career in a television add in 2014. He also likes to meet girls on Tiner.
Vincenzo Angileri
Ana Luiza Ornelas
Valeria Martens Brice単o
Copywriter Vinny never has any rolling papers. He has a random musical taste and likes calamari as well as porros.
Illustrator Ana comes from Brasil. Recently she had some trouble with the water heater in her apartment.
Graphic Designer Valeria had an accident in the kitchen not long ago and now she is rocking a hand bandage
Marcelo de castro
Ligia Teixeira
Judit Arroyo
Creative writer Marcelo went hard at Primavera Sound this year. He has the same exact accent as my roomate.
Photographer Ligia always laughs when I try to speak portugese.
Costume designer Judit is a very chatty and organized girl. She is the class delegada.
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Index 20
Nice Catch Atlantic Salmon Bandit Angelfish 窶連weoweo Hawaiian Coral Croucher
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Float Hawaii, USA Menorca, Spain Cancun, Mexico
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News from the world of fishing. Taking a closer look at real issues in the world.
Cold Blooded Lin Paradey Jean Toussaint Luccini
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Recipies and anegdotes for food lovers by Marc Matsumoto.
Water Proof Kenya India
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Interviews with the most interesting personalities in the world of fishing today.
Harpoon Breakfast Snack Dinner
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Learn about new species of fish recently discovered in different areas of the world.
Traven the world and visit the best fishing spots in the world.
Back Bone Other water activities you should definitally look into.
Surf Scuba Diving Sailing
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Quest 1
Atlantic Salmon..................................22 Bandit angelfish.................................24 窶連weoweo.........................................26 Hawaiian coral croucher....................28
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The Atlantic salmon, Salmo salar, is a fish in the family Salmonidae, which is found in the northern Atlantic Ocean and in rivers that flow into the north Atlantic and, due to human introduction, the north Pacific. Other names used to reference Atlantic salmon are: bay salmon, black salmon, caplin-scull salmon, Sebago salmon, silver salmon, fiddler, or outside salmon. At different points in their maturation and life cycle, they are known as parr, s spawn in native freshwater streams where the eggs hatch and juveniles grow through several molt, grilse, grilt, kelt, slink, and spring salmon. Atlantic salmon that don’t journey to sea, usually because of past human interference, are known as landlocked salmon or ouananiche. Most Atlantic salmon follow an anadromous fish migration pattern, in that they undergo their greatest feeding and growth in salt water; however, adults return to spawn in native freshwater streams where the eggs hatch and juveniles grow through several distinct stages. Atlantic salmon do not require salt water. Numerous examples of fully freshwater (i.e., “landlocked”) populations of the species exist throughout the Northern Hemisphere. In North America, the landlocked strains are frequently known as ouananiche.
Atlantic Salmon The freshwater phases of Atlantic salmon vary between one and eight years, variably according to river location. While the young in southern rivers, such as those to the English Channel, are only one year old when they leave, those further north, such as in Scottish rivers, can be over four years old, and in Ungava Bay, northern Quebec, smolts as old as eight years have been encountered. The average age correlates to temperature exceeding 7°C. When parr develop into smolt, they begin the trip to the ocean, which predominantly happens between March and June. Migration allows acclimation to the changing salinity. Having left their natal streams, they experience a period of rapid growth during the one to four years they live in the ocThe freshwater phases of Atlantic salmon vary between one and eight years, variably according to river location. While the young in southern rivers, such as those to the English Channel, are only one year old when they leave, those further north, such as in Scottish rivers, can be over four years old, and in Ungava Bay, northern Quebec, smolts as old as eight years have been encountered. The average age correlates to temperature exceeding 7°C.
NET MAG × ISSUE #0 × SUMMER 2014 × ‘AWEOWEO
North Pacific
Nice catch
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The Black Bandit Angelfish is also known as the Black-banded Angelfish because of the swatch of black that extends horizontally from over the eye to the end of the dorsal fin. It is also known as the Hawaiian Pearlyscale Angelfish due to the shimmering whites to grays making up the majority of body color. The anal fin is dark brown and the tail has a wide dark brown rim tipped inwardly with white. A single Black Bandit Angelfish will do well in a tank of at least 180 gallons with plenty Bandit Angelfish may become territorial. With a natural diet of sponges, the Gray Angelfish is difficult to acclimatize. It has a habit of nipping at soft and hard corals and clam mantles, so it is not a good reef dweller. It is hermaphroditic, very difficult to breed in an aquarium, and indistinguishable by coloration from male to female. A varied diet of angelfish preparations, marine algae, live rock for grazing, and vitamin-fortified varied diet of angelfish preparations shrimp should be provided. Approximate Purchase Size: Medium 3� to 4 1/2�. Dorsal spines (total): 13; Dorsal soft rays (total): 17-18; Anal spines: 3; Anal soft rays: 18. Overall pale with a broad black bar bordered by a narrow pearly white band running across the upper side from the front of the eye
Bandit Angelfish
North Atlantic
to the posterior portion of the soft dorsal fin. A similar broad black band with pearly white border runs submarginal on the caudal and anal fins. The banded angelfish (Apolemichthys arcuatus) (Gray, 1831) Syn. (Holocanthus arcuatus) Banded angelfish, Bandit angelfish, Three spine angelfish is a distinctive and uncommon fish of the Pomacanthidae family. Adults of most species are more or less solitary, while young and half-grown fish frequently congregate. Barracudas prey primarily on fish (which may include some as large as themselves). They kill and consume larger prey by tearing chunks of flesh. Barracuda are competitive species and often are seen competing against mackerel, needle fish and sometimes even dolphins for prey.The freshwater phases of Atlantic salmon vary between one and eight years, variably according to river location. While the young in southern rivers, such as those to the English Channel, are only one year old when they leave, those further north, such as in Scottish rivers, can be over four years old, and in Ungava Bay, northern Quebec, smolts as old as eight years have been encountered.
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窶連weoweo are voracious, opportunistic predators, relying on surprise and short bursts of speed (up to 27 mph (43 km/h)) to overtake their prey. Adults of most species are more or less solitary, while young and half-grown fish frequently congregate. Barracudas prey primarily on fish (which may include some as large as themselves). They kill and consume larger prey by tearing chunks of flesh. Barracuda are competitive species and often are seen competing against mackerel, needle fish and sometimes even dolphins for prey. It is known that Barracuda feed on an array of prey including fishes such as jacks, grunts, groupers, snappers, small tunas, mullets, killifishes, herrings, and anchovies by simply biting them in half. They also seem to consume smaller species of sustenance that are in front of them. Like sharks, some species of barracuda are reputed to be dangerous to swimmers. Barracudas are scavengers, and may mistake snorkellers for large predators, following them hoping to eat the remains of their prey. Swimmers have reported being bitten by barracuda, but such incidents are rare and possibly caused by poor visibility. Large barracudas can be encountered in muddy shallows on rare occasion. Barracudas may mistake things that glint and shine for prey. One incident reported a barracuda jumping out of water and injuring a kayaker, but Jason Schratwieser, conservation director.
窶連weoweo Handfeeding or touching large barracudas in general is to be avoided. Spearfishing around barracudas can also be dangerous, as they are quite capable of ripping a chunk from a wounded fish thrashing on a spear. Diamond rings and other shiny objects have been known to catch their attention and resemble prey to them. Caution should be taken when swimming near mangrove coastlines by covering or removing such items. Barracudas are popular both as food and game fish. They are most often eaten as fillets or steaks. Larger species, such as the great barracuda, have been implicated in cases of ciguatera food poisoning. Those who have been diagnosed with this type of food poisoning display symptoms of gastrointestinal discomfort, limb weakness, and an inability to differentiate hot from cold effectively.The banded angelfish (Apolemichthys arcuatus) (Gray, 1831) Syn. (Holocanthus arcuatus) Banded angelfish, Bandit angelfish, Three spine angelfish is a distinctive and uncommon fish of the Pomacanthidae family. Swimmers have reported being bitten by barracuda, but such incidents are rare and possibly caused by poor visibility. Large barracudas can be encountered in muddy shallows on rare occasion.
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Indian Ocean
Nice catch
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The barracuda is a ray-finned fish known for its large size and fearsome appearance. Its body is long, fairly compressed, and covered with small, smooth scales. Some species can reach up to 2.1 m (6.9 ft) in length and 30 cm (12 in) in width. The barracuda is a saltwater fish of the genus Sphyraena, the only genus in the family Sphyraenidae, and is found in tropical and subtropical oceans worldwide ranging from the Eastern border of the Atlantic Ocean to the Red Sea and Caribbean Sea. They are found near the top of the water and near coral reefs and sea grasses. Barracudas are elongated fish, pike-like in appearance, with prominent, sharp-edged, fang-like teeth, much like piranhas, all of different sizes, set in sockets of their large jaws. They have large, pointed heads with an underbite in many species. Their gill covers have no spines and are covered with small scales. Their two dorsal fins are widely separated, with the anterior fin having five spines, and the posterior fin having one spine and 9 soft rays. The posterior dorsal fin is similar in size to the anal fin and is situated above it. The lateral line is prominent and extends straight from head to tail. The spinous dorsal fin is placed above the pelvic fins and is normally retracted in a groove. The caudal fin is moderately forked
Hawaiian Coral Coucher
North Pacific
with its posterior edged double-curved and is set at the end of a stout peduncle. In most cases, a barracuda is dark blue, dark green, or gray on its upper body, with silvery sides and a chalky-white belly. Coloration varies somewhat between species. For some species, irregular black spots or a row of darker cross-bars occur on each side. Their fins may be yellowish or dusky. Barracudas live primarily in oceans, but certain species, such as the great barracuda, live in brackish water. Some species grow quite large, such as the European barracuda, barracouta, or spet (S. sphyraena), found in the Mediterranean Sea and eastern Atlantic; the great barracuda, picuda or becuna (S. picuda), ranging on the Atlantic coast of tropical America from North Carolina to Brazil and reaching Bermuda. Other barracuda species are found around the world. Examples are the California barracuda (S. argentea), found from Puget Sound southwards to Cabo San Lucas, the Indian barracuda (S. jello), and the black-finned or Commerson’s barracuda (S. commersoni), from the seas of India and the Malay Peninsula and Archipelago.
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Float Quest 2 Hawaii, USA.......................................32 Menorca, Spain..................................40 Cancun, Mexico.................................49
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The following narration of the different fishes here given is told and largely believed in by native fishermen. All may not agree as to particulars in this version, but the main features are well known and vary but little.
Hawaii, USA
Fish stories and superstitions
Translated by M. K. Nahuina
Float
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Hawaii
Some of these stories are termed mythical, in others the truth is never questioned, and together they have a deep hold on the Hawaiian mind. Further and confirmatory information may be obtained from fishermen and others, and by visiting the market the varieties here mentioned may be seen daily. In the olden time certain varieties of fish were tabooed and could not be caught at all times, being subject to the kapu of Ku-ula, the fish god, who propagated the finny tribes of Hawaiian waters. While deep sea fishing was more general, that in the shallow sea, or along shore, was subject to the restrictions of the konohiki of the land, and aliis, both as to certain kinds and periods. The sign of the shallow sea kapu was the placing of branches of the hau tree all along the shore. The people seeing this token of the kapu respected it, and any violation thereof in ancient times was said to be punishable by death.
DEIFIED FISH SUPERSTITION Some of the varieties of fish we now eat were deified and prayed to by the people of the olden time, and even some Hawaiians of to-day labor under like superstition with regard to sharks, eels, oopus, and some others. They are afraid to eat or touch these lest they suffer in consequence; and this belief has been perpetuated, handed down from parents to children, even to the present day. The writer was one of those brought up to this belief, and only lately has eaten the kapu fish of his ancestors without fearing a penalty therefor. STORY OF THE ANAE-HOLO The anae-holo is a species of mullet unlike the shallow water, or pond, variety; and than the following story of its habit is well known to any kupa (native born) of Oahu. The home of the anae-holo is at Honouliuli, Pearl Harbor, at a place was called Ihuopalaai. They make periodical journeys around to the opposite side of the island, starting from Puuloa and going to windward, passing by successively Kumumanu, Kalihi, Kou, Kalia, Waikiki, Kaalawai and on, around to the Koolau side, ending at Laie, and then returning by the same course to their starting-point. This fish is not caught at Waianae,
Kaena, Waialua, Waimea, or Kahuku because it does not run that way, though these places are well supplied with other kinds. The reason given for this is as follows: Ihuopalaai had a Ku-ula, and this fish god supplied anaes. Ihuopalaai’s sister took a husband and went and lived with him at Laie, Koolauloa. In course of time a day came when there was no fish to be had. In her distress and desire for some she bethought herself of her brother, so she sent her husband to Honouliuli to ask Ihuopalaai for a supply, saying: “Go to Ihuopalaai, my brother, and ask him for fish. If he offers you dried fish, refuse it by all means;--do not take it, because the distance is so long that you would not be able to carry enough to last us for any length of time.” When her husband arrived at Honouliuli he went to Ihuopalaai and asked him for fish. His brother-in-law gave him several large bundles of dried fish, one of which he could not very well lift, let alone carry a distance. This offer was refused and reply given according to instruction. Ihuopalaai sat thinking for some time and then told him to return home, saying: “You take the road on the Kona side of the island; do not sit, stay, nor sleep on the way till you reach your own house.”
NET MAG × ISSUE #0 × SUMMER 2014 × ‘AWEOWEO
Float
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Hawaii
MYTH OF THE HILU The hilu is said to have once possessed a human form, but by some strange event its body was changed to that of a fish. No knowledge of its ancestry or place of origin is given, but the story is as follows: Hilu-ula and Hilu-uli were born twins, one a male and the other a female. They had human form, but with power to assume that of the fish now known as hilu. The two children grew up together and in due time when Hilu-uli, the sister, was grown up, she left her brother and parents without saying a word and went into the sea, and, assuming her fish form, set out on a journey, eventually reaching Heeia, Koolaupoko. During the time of her journey she increased the numbers of the hilu so that by the time they came close to Heeia there was so large a school that the sea was red with them. When the people of Heeia and Kaneohe saw this, they paddled out in their canoes to discover that it was a fish they had never seen nor heard of before. Returning to the shore for nets, they surrounded the school and drew in so many that they were not able to care for them in their canoes. The fishes multiplied so rapidly that when the first school was surrounded and dragged ashore, another one appeared, and so on, till the people were surfeited. Yet the fish stayed in the locality, circling around. The people ate of them in all styles known to Hawaiians; raw, lawalued, salted, and broiled over a fire of coals. While the Koolau people were thus fishing an feasting, Hilu-ula, the brother, arrived among them in his human form; and when he saw the hilu-uli broiling over the coal fire he recognized the fish form of his sister. This so angered him that he assumed the form of a whirlwind and entered every house where they had hilu and blew the fish all back into the sea. Since then the hilu-uli has dark scales, and is well known all over the islands.
The man started as directed, and Ihuopalaai asked Ku-ula to send fish for his sister, and while the man was journeying homeward as directed a school of fish was following in the sea, within the breakers. He did not obey fully the words of Ihuopalaai, for he became so tired that he sat down on the way; but he noticed that whenever he did so he fish rested too. The people seeing the school of fish went and caught some of them. Of course, not knowing that this was his supply, he did not realize that the people were taking his fish. Reaching home, he met his wife and told her he had brought no fish, but had seen many all the way, and pointed out to her the school of anae-holo which was then resting abreast of their house. She told him it was their supply, sent by Ihuopalaai, his brother-in-law. They fished, and got all they desired, whereupon the remainder returned by the same way till they reached Honouliuli where Ihuopalaai was living. Ever afterward this variety of fish has come and gone the same way every year to this day, commencing some time in October and ending in March or April. Expectant mothers are not allowed to eat of the anae-holo, nor the aholehole, fearing dire consequences to the child, hence they never touch them till after the eventful day.
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Marine conservation advocate Oceana reported Thursday it had detected mercury contamination in samples of monkfish and scorpion fish fished in the island of Menorca, Spain, in the Mao area.
Menorca, Spain
Merucy levels in Menorca fish
Undercurrent News
Float
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Menorca
Marine conservation advocate Oceana reported Thursday it had detected mercury contamination in samples of monkfish and scorpion fish fished in the island of Menorca, Spain, in the Mao area. The fish were acquired by Oceana at fish mongers whose labels certified that they had been fished in Menorca–mostly in the fishing grounds of Mao–and they were analysed by the University of Barcelona. In the case of the monkfish, 8 of the 10 samples analysed exceeded the maximum levels permitted by European regulations, 1 mg/ kg of fresh weight, and for scorpion fish 7 out of the 10 samples analysed exceeded the max permitted levels of 0.5 mg/kg.
tain species at the top of the food chain, such as bluefin tuna and swordfish. An increasing number of regulations are being implemented on a global level, such as the Minamata Convention, and in Europe, such as the Water Framework Directive, to put an end to the dumping of this substance that is so harmful to human health as it is a very potent neurotoxin and bioaccumulative. Oceana requested that the Balearic Port Authority looks for alternatives to dumping these materials into the sea, as indicated by the London Protocol. “These materials must be decontaminated or deposited on land, in a place that has been prepared to receive these substances so that they do not cause any problems,” Oceana officers explained. Up to 10 samples of red mullet were also analysed. Red mullet is lower in the food chain than monkfish and scorpion fish, so it is less exposed to accumulations of heavy metals.
We chose species with a small range of mobility to ensure that the contamination of these fish came from the island and not elsewhere, explained Xavier Pastor, executive director of Oceana in Europe. “We can therefore say that in Menorca there are currently problems with mercury contamination and if the dredged material which is contaminated with this substance is dumped into the sea, as they intend to do in the port of Maó, the situation will get worse. This is an irresponsible act that is hazardous for the health of people and the island’s fishing activity.” These problems with mercury contamination had already been detected in other species captured by the Spanish fleet. The Spanish ministry of health was recently forced to issue a recommendation that children aged under three years of age and pregnant women should not eat cer-
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None of the sample of this species exceeded the levels of heavy metals permitted by European regulations. Fish and shellfish concentrate mercury in their bodies, often in the form of methylmercury, a highly toxic organic compound of mercury. Fish products have been shown to contain varying amounts of heavy metals, particularly mercury and fat-soluble pollutants from water pollution. Species of fish that are long-lived and high on the food chain, such as marlin, tuna, shark, swordfish, king mackerel, tilefish (Gulf of Mexico), and northern pike contain higher concentrations of mercury than others. The presence of mercury in fish can be a health issue, particularly for women who are or may become pregnant, nursing mothers, and young children. Mercury is known to bioaccumulate in humans, so bioaccumulation in seafood carries over into human populations. It is dangerous to both natural ecosystems and humans since it is a metal known to be highly toxic, especially due to its ability to damage the central nervous system. In human-controlled ecosystems of fish, usually done for market production of wanted seafood species, mercury clearly rises through the food chain via fish consuming small plankton, as well as through non-food sources such as underwater sediment. This mercury grows in concentration within the bodies of fish and can be measured in the tissues of selected species
The consumption of fish is by far the most significant source of ingestion-related mercury exposure in humans and animals.Mercury and methyl mercury is present in only very small concentrations in seawater. However, it is absorbed, usually as methyl mercury, by algae at the start of the food chain. This algae is then eaten by fish and other organisms higher in the food chain. Fish efficiently absorb methyl mercury, but only very slowly excrete it. Methylmercury is not soluble and therefore is not apt to be excreted. Instead, it accumulates, primarily in the viscera although also in the muscle tissue. This results in the bioaccumulation of mercury, in a buildup in the adipose tissue of successive trophic levels: zooplankton, small nekton, larger fish etc. The older such fish become, the more mercury they may have absorbed. Anything which eats these fish within the food chain also consumes the higher level of mercury the fish have accumulated. This process explains why predatory fish such as swordfish and sharks or birds like osprey and eagles have higher concentrations of mercury in their tissue than could be accounted for by direct exposure alone. Species on the food chain can amass body concentrations of mercury up to ten times higher than the species they consume. This process is called biomagnification. For example, herring contains mercury levels at about 0.01 ppm while shark contains mercury levels greater than 1 ppm.
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As any sports fisherman will tell you, Mexico is the place to go for the big catches. Peak season is dying down, but August is still boom time for these intrepid anglers. The reports are coming in, thick and fast, of landed monster fish worthy of a photograph to frame for the wall back home.
Cancun, Mexico
Interview Real Fisherman
Marine Technology Dallas, USA
Float
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Cancun
It was almost like the “old days” around here this past week. It was like the days you read about in the magazines. Lots of guys didn’t know what to do with all the fish they caught.
Their biggest “problem” was realizing that even after giving away fish and releasing fish when it came time to fly home, their ice chests were WAY too heavy! It was a good problem and one that most just laughed about and chatted about having to have a quick weekend barbecue to get rid of all the excess fish that wouldn’t fit in the home freezers. Honestly, for both our Tailhunter La Paz and our Tailhunter Las Arenas Fleet, that bite that started during the full moon just flared bigger! Our Tailhunter La Paz fleet keep rolling up on the dorado schools. Most of the fish continue to be about 10-15 pounds, but there were many other fish into the 20-30 pound class and a few larger too that were lost. Fish were found in a scattered area, but often the bite would be slower until later then big schools would be located and it would blow into a dorado rodeo. “We trolled and drifted for hours without much except big bonito and needlefish. Then, all of a sudden, we found the biggest line of sargasso weed and even before we got there, you could tell it was alive! There were flying fish around it and birds diving on it and a sea turtle swimming through it and all kinds of nervous water!” said one of our anglers. “We threw some sardines and chunked bonito at it and the whole thing exploded with dorado! We had triple instant hookups that went on for a good hour until we said no more. We released at least half the fish we hooked.” That was pretty typical for many of our La Paz anglers. One boat decided they had enough dorado and asked our captain to head for the rocks to look for other species and got a box load of pargo, cabrilla, roosters and jacks as well.
For our Tailhunter Las Arenas fleet, it was crazy as ever. The bad news was that there was very little live bait in the way of sardines so the guys laughingly had to start each day pulling up giant squid from deep deep down. It’s quite a chore and in no time guys are drenched in sweat! The good news however, was that everything was eating the squid…tuna, big yellowtail, pargo, dorado and even marlin were all hooked on squid chunks this week. The tuna bite changed, but no one complained. The previous weeks big big tuna were not uncommon, but some of the fish were so big that many anglers would come back blanked after fighting the sluggers for up to 3 hours. After awhile, that stops being fun. Instead this week, much more manageable football tuna between 10 and 25 pounders were the norm and many anglers got daily limits of tuna to mix up with dorado and other species such as pargo and roosterfish. We had a number of kids fishing with us this week and this size of tuna was ideal for the youngsters to get into. One of the largest fish of the week was a 40 pound beast of a yellowtail taken by 10-year-old Jorge Grijalva of Hacienda Heights. It was Jorge’s first time fishing and he took the fish on 30 pound test. Unfortunately, he also busted dad’s custom-wrapped Calstar rod on the fish! Dad was still pretty proud. If you check out the photos above, you’ll also see photos of a big time tuna and roosterfish. No telling how long this bite will last. I’m growing to expect the “unexpected” the way this season has been! That’s our story! Quintana Roo is a Mexican state on the eastern coast of the Yucatan commonly called the Mayan Riviera. This popular destination is best known for its incredible
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Cancun
beaches in Cozumel and Cancun, as well as the ancient Mayan ruins in Tulum and across the region. But history buffs and beach bums aren’t the only ones with something to look forward to. It’s also a fisherman’s paradise -- literally. One look around at the tropical climate and scenery will remind you it is paradise, and no matter what kind of saltwater fishing you like, you’ll find that here too.
Deep Sea Fishing If you are up for the challenge of landing the big fish, then deep sea fishing is the answer to your angling dreams in this area. The best deepsea fishing charters are available on the island of Cozumel. Many fishing charter companies are located in Cozumel who will help you fish for big game fish and many species that will make a good addition to the dinner table that night.
Salt Flats If wading up to your waist in the warm lapping waters of Quintana Roo’s salt flats sounds appealing, then grab your fly rod and get ready to catch your fill of fish using flies and your natural skills. Venture into the salt flats and saltwater lagoons and estuaries to find these fish. The Sian Ka’an Biosphere, Bacalar Chico and Punta Allen are all great spots for this type of fishing in Quintana Roo.
Spear Fishing If you like your fishing to be a little more of a hunt, then you can do it the way that humans by the sea first caught fish in days of old: with a spear. Spear fishing in an ancient form of fishing that is still practiced today in some cultures. In Cozumel you can find a spear fishing tour operator that can do everything from teach you how to use a spear to taking you to the spot to find the fish. Spear Fishing Cozumel.
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Cold
blooded
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Quest 3
Lin Paradey........................................58 Jean Toussaint Lucchini.....................78
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In this issue the guest at Cold Booded, is one of the most well known and prolific sailing writers. The Pardey’s book Cruising in Seraffyn has probably launched more dreamers into cruising life than any other book.
Lin Pardey
Interview by Christine Kling
Creative writer, Sailor.
Lin Pardey Interview by Christine Kling
Lin Pardey is the author of eleven books. She and her husband Larry have sailed more than 200,000 miles and received some of sailing’s most prestigious awards. The Pardeys have also created several instructional videos on offshore voyaging. They make New Zealand their home base, but spend part of each year cruising on board their engine-free 29-foot sailboat Taleisin. Lin’s latest book, Bull Canyon, a Boatbuilder, a Writer and other Wildlife is already getting rave reviews like this one from PW: Soon after meeting, Lin and Larry Pardey (The Cost Conscious Cruiser), two free and kindred spirits, set sale in “Seraffyn” from California, ultimately spending 11 years traversing the globe, writing articles about sailing to supplement their income. Back in southern California, their lives took a dramatic turn when they decided to take root in dry, brush-filled Bull Canyon, in a region prone to wild fires, and build a new boat–out of very flammable wood. With a cat named “Dog” to help manage their rat problem and a dog named “Cindy” running security, the Pardeys spent three years building the 29-foot sailboat, Taleisin, selling off Seraffyn, which had taken them around the world, to buy time. But Lin immediately felt cheated; was $40,000 “enough to compensate for the freedom I’d given up?” This idea of freedom vs. security is like fuel for Bull Canyon; it practically runs on it.
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Lin, by way of introduction, I’d like to tell you about the first time you and I met. I think it’s interesting because it happened while you were living the events from Bull Canyon. My (then) husband Jim Kling and I were building a boat up in Oxnard in 1979 after a couple of years of cruising the South Pacific. I think I was about 25 years old. I was working in the little bookstore in Ventura Marina called the Island Hunter Bookstore. I’d sold a few articles to the sailing magazines, and I had big dreams of writing a book. I wanted to put together a proposal for a book on Cruising Women and you graciously agreed to be interviewed. I drove down with Karen from the bookstore, and we met you in the upstairs apartment of a home where you were staying in Newport Beach. You were my idol and I was terrified. Karen asked nearly all the questions because I was tongue-tied. I madly scribbled notes. Afterwards, Karen and I went sailing on Newport Bay in a lovely little wooden open boat that your friends graciously offered to us. Although I was not able to sell that non-fiction book proposal, I never forgot that afternoon, nor your kindness with this beginning writer. First off, the tag line for this blog is “So you want to quit your job, move onto a boat, and write.” When did that so become your dream? Could you tell us the story of your first attempts at writing and how you finally broke in to the marine magazine market? We were weather bound in Panama. I picked up a ragged yachting magazine (Boating Magazine from early 1970). In it was an article called, The Perfect Cruising Yacht. The author said, “Though a few Spartan souls have gone in boats as small as 30 feet, the perfect yacht is 57 feet long.” We had just spent the previous two years having a grand time on 24’4” Seraffyn. Half the yachts at anchor around us (there were about 11) were less than 30 feet. I wrote a strongly worded letter to the editor. Three weeks later a telegram arrived saying simply, “prove it.” Larry suggested I do a survey of folks who had been cruising at least two years. Six months later I wrote about what I’d learned. That first article sold to seven different magazines in five different countries and became the basis for our first book. After that first article, it all seemed to flow like honey. Larry feels several things made our sailing stories and articles successful; we were having a lot of fun and it showed, our boat looked good in photographs, with Larry’s technical knowledge and my romantic streak the stories appealed to both women and men, almost anyone could imagine someday owning 24 foot boat so our message was quite popular. If you don’t mind sharing the information, through all your years of cruising, what percentage of your income has been from writing as opposed to all your other business ventures? Has writing been your major form of support? We cruised on income from delivering boats, doing woodwork and rigging along the way for the first three years. Writing only added a small portion of our income for the next year or two. But after five years of cruising we found writing provided about half our income. Now, 40 years after that first article, writing probably provides 65% to 70% of our income.
NET MAG × ISSUE #0 × SUMMER 2014 × ‘AWEOWEO
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People often ask us cruisers how we can live in such small spaces, and we all know it’s even more difficult to write in a tight space. Could you tell us a little about how you manage to concentrate, whether you now use a computer, and what your average writing day is like when you are aboard Taleisin? I currently have a lovely office at our home base in New Zealand, with computer, printer etc. I find it harder to write than I did while we were actively cruising (about half our books and articles were written right on the boat, others while we spent winters on shore. Two were written right here.) But when we were cruising we set aside three months a year for solid working time which usually coincided with haulout and refit time. Every morning I settled in for four hours of creative work. Larry either had jobs off the boat, or worked opposite me doing editing or writing himself. Afternoons I’d work on the business of writing – i.e. getting photos organized, typing clean manuscripts. Late afternoons I did up the varnish work or sail repairs on the boat. The rest of the year as we cruised actively, I did a lot of writing on night watches, on rainy days in port. Then I’d settle in a few mornings a week to type up and edit manuscripts. Most of your books (except for The Care and Feeding of Sailing Crew) carry the byline Lin and Larry Pardey. Can you tell us more about how that collaboration has worked? I’d usually write the narratives; Larry often took on the how-to articles. (We sometimes joked, I told the stories and Larry told the truth.) Right from the first story we sold, Larry and I spent hours discussing the ideas before the writing began. So by the time it was all on paper it was often hard to remember exactly whose words we actually used. Larry’s book Details of – Classic Boat construction – was different. Though I did a lot of the editing to make sure explanations would be clear to less skilled readers, the words that fill that book are definitely Larry’s. The same is true of Care and Feeding but in reverse. The new book Bull Canyon: A Boatbuilder, a Writer and other Wildlife carries only your byline for the first time. This book is a real departure for you, isn’t it? Can you tell us about its genesis? For the first time ever, Larry only learned what I was writing when I handed him the first draft of each chapter This was definitely a departure for us and in fact caused a few moments of friction. Where in the past I’d gladly take on his comments such as, “Why don’t you tell them this story” or “Isn’t that getting a bit personal?” for Bull Canyon I felt it important to tell only my story and I feel Larry was at first a bit hurt by this. But gradually, as the book matured through four re-writes and as he edited each new one, he became ever more enthusiastic about my being in complete control of the story. His encouragement was wonderful and kept me going into that fourth re-write (and even more important through the painful wait for the first reviews.)
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Lin’s sailing photo-diary
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Tell the story both of a romance and relationship and the blooming of an author’s narrative power. Is your memoir one or the other or both? About 30 years ago, friends watched Larry and I working together, resolving differences, solving problems and said, “You guys should write a book about relationships.” We laughed and agreed, if we tried to dissect our relationship and see what made it work, we might ruin it. Besides, at that time who knew if it was going to last – even if we definitely wanted it too? In a way, now that we can look back at a fine romance of 45 years, Bull Canyon is that book, a gentle look at the inner workings of a relationship that has helped us both enjoy life together. I hope readers also find my narrative skills have grown. Larry sure thinks they have! There are some laugh-out -loud stories in this book. Do you have any favorites? They are all my favorites. I just wish I’d been able to find room for the dozens of other very funny incidents that seemed to occur in Bull Canyon. But the one that makes tears come into my eyes every time I think of it is definitely seeing Larry rushing through the night, nude except for a pair of shoes, armed with a shovel and flashlight in his attempt to rescue Dog (our cat) from a wild cougar. When it comes to sailing fiction and memoir who are some of your favorite authors? And since all or most of your books are available for the Kindle, have you crossed over into the world of e-readers yet? My absolute favorite memoir still has to be Don’t Lets Go to the Dogs Tonight by Alexandra Fuller. I also really enjoyed Beryl Markham’s West with the Night. Sailing memoir-wise, nothing beats a very old but very readable book, The Cruise of the Cachalot by Frank Bullen written in 1897, reprinted 29 times and still in print today. My favorite sailing fiction definitely has to be any of C.S. Foresters books. Though I read his Hornblower series time and again, it was his Daughter of the Hawk I loved best. Then there are the Jan De Hartog books; Call of the Sea, The Captain. As for e-readers, I use a computer for work, not sure I want to use one for pleasure. I like to have a pile of books next to my bunk, lining my shelves all waiting to fill my time. I like to pass them around to my friends – leave them laying open at a page in the bathroom for a short sneak, discover something that would be fun to read left behind in on the trading shelf at the marina laundry. So I am not ready to rush out and buy a reader though I did use Kindle for PC to download Dan Poynter’s Self Publishing Manual. What’s up next in your career as a writer? Are you working on a new book? Is Bull Canyon really going to be the start of more of Taleisin’s Tales? With the warm and wonderful response I am getting from Bull Canyon, both among sailing and non-sailing readers, I am eager to get going on Taleisin’s Tales. But first I have to get ready for seminars at the Newport Boatshow, and the Annapolis show in September/October plus of course, help with the promotion of Bull Canyon.
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While at happy hour one day last week on the beach at Long Island in the Bahamas, Tim and JoAnn met up with a couple, Graham and Valerie, who they had met two years ago. They got to talking and Graham and Valerie mentioned that they didn’t make it out to the Bahamas last year because they had their boat on the hard in Titusville having their bottom stripped and redone. Tim mentioned that they had friends (us) doing the same thing this year. He told them our names and they said that they had met us nearly eight years earlier in Key West. It would have been nice to run into them ourselves, but this just goes to show that when you’re cruising you never know who you’ll run into. We hope that when we get the boat moving we’ll run into Graham and Valerie, or Tim and JoAnn, or Chris and Wayne, or any one of a hundred cruisers we’ve met over the last ten years. After all, isn’t that part of what cruising is all about? Don’t get me wrong, I’m very happy for both Chris and Wayne, it’s just that we’re going to miss having Chris around. Over the past eight or nine years, since we met at a SleuthFest mystery writer’s conference, we’ve become good friends. We buddy-boated twice to the Bahamas with her, exchanged manuscripts for critiquing, and spent alot of time walking our dogs together. We’ll miss having Chris around, and although we have no clue when we’ll meet again, when you’re boating anything can happen, which brings me to the email from Tim and JoAnn. Those of you who read the blog regularly know Chris took a trip out to Fiji to meet a guy, Wayne, who she had been corresponding with. They hit it off and Chris is planning to move out to the Pacific and cruise with Wayne. This is good for Chris and good for Wayne, but unfortunately as is often the case with cruising friends who tend to wander at different speeds and in different directions, it’s not as good for us. A couple of things happened this week that made me think about making friends and cruising. One of those things was a visit by Chris Kling and her new boyfriend, the other was an email from marina neighbors, Tim and JoAnn Thank you so much for joining us here at Cold Blooded and we wish you continued success with Bull Canyon. I want to let our readers know they can buy Bull Canyon on Amazon or Fort Lauderdale locals can stop by Bluewater Books and Charts. Christine, I took a look at your website and when I saw your photo I did remember meeting you. You came with Karen. I really liked her book store. Fun connections. A big congratulations to you on your writing success. Four novels!! Wow, can’t wait to read the first. Sounds like good fun. Hope we meet up again some day. I hope so, too. We both know the world of cruising folk is a small one, so until our courses cross again,
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Lin’s sailing photo-diary
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“I like dark and hard stuff and I choose to do that kind of music from the sea, not the beautiful small lakes or waterfalls. The big waves and submarines and warships are more appealing.�
Jean Toussaint Lucchini
Interview Real Fisherman
Marine Technology Dallas, USA
Jean Toussaint Lucchini Interview by Marvin Thomasky
Corsica reveals all its splendour to those who take the time to appreciate it. Through pesca-tourism, the fishermen that are moored along the quays offer visitors the chance to enjoy a wonderful adventure aboard an authentic fishing boat. They invite their passengers to share in all the passion of their profession, their knowledge of the marine environment and the culture related to this ancestral activity. Much more than just a boat ride across the waves, these fishermen give visitors the opportunity to discover the wonders of the Isle of Beaty far away from the beaten tracks. They allow their guests to feel the excitement as the nets are hauled on board and to explore the treasures of the Mediterranean from a fresh perspective. Pesca-tourism is a new type of touristic activity that allows fishermen to promote and preserve their local marine environment by welcoming passengers on board their vessels. This also allows them to diversify their main business activity and give members of the public a true insight into what their profession really entails.
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Welcome Jean Toussaint Lucchini, you are a fisherman and boat owner at the port of Solenzara and you also offer pesca-tourism experiences. Could you tell us a little bit about this activity? I have been a fisherman and boat owner for 27 years. I used to work aboard the “Corail”, which is a traditional small boat fishing vessel: I mainly fish using nets, long lines and seines. I offer my guests the chance to spend a morning discovering my way of life aboard my very own boat. When it comes to my profession, people only know what they see at the quayside, but they don’t get to see what the realities of this industry are. I also invite interested people to come aboard my vessel in order to reveal to them the knowledge that I acquired from my ancestors and to promote the small boat fishing industry in general. Can you explain to us how a typical pesca-tourism excursion would work? All the information regarding pesca-tourism can be found on the web site of the Corsican Regional Committee of Maritime Fisheries and Marine Fish Farming (CRPMEM) but also at the various tourist offices. Anybody who wants to book simply has to call me! I meet my passengers at the port and take them on board with me for a 3 to 6 hour trip at sea, depending on the type of fishing they want to experience. During this trip, they help me to bring in the nets, pots and long lines. In this way they get to encounter the various species that we catch. It is a convivial experience where I am able to share with them all my passion and my knowledge of the sea and the marine environment. It’s important to know that the guests do not actually fish themselves, they are there at my side in order to discover this way of life. Once we are back at port I invite them to come along with me to where I sell my morning’s catch. What else do you need to know before setting out on a pesca-tourism trip? Pesca-tourism can be enjoyed at a great many Corsican ports. All the fishermen that offer this activity are listed on the Corsican CRPMEM web site. Pesca-tourism can only be carried out by professional fishermen who have been accredited by the Maritime Affairs Commission. The weather is also a determining factor when it comes to fishing. If the weather is bad the trip can be cancelled at the last moment. It costs €40 per person and I only take 2 people out at a time. Pesca-tourism is an authentic activity that can only be enjoyed in small groups. When it comes to children, each boat owner reserves the right to decide if they can come aboard and to define the age limits in relation to the type of vessel they have. All terms and conditions, as well as things you should know before coming aboard, are detailed on the Corsican CRMPEM web site.
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Which fishing construction and activity exists? In this glossary, the ordering of the terms is not always alphabetical, and in the cases where pronunciation seemed problematic, I used a phonetic script with the Latin alphabet to clarify it (just as we casually write Egyptian with Latin letters on the internet). During the phase of collecting the terms I used my own perfectly phonetic script with Coptic letters, which was important to me so that I do not waste much time adding signs to the letters as we do in Arabic, to ensure that I have documented the correct pronunciation. The contents of the glossary are generally represented in a very intuitive and simple way; the geographic location in which terms are being used is always listed next to each term between brackets, and synonyms or similar terms which differ from one another according to location, are being represented together in one cluster regardless of their alphabetical ordering; something which I thought would be useful for the reader to know how different geographic locations call the same objects or ideas? It is important at this stage to talk about the patterns of linguistic differences and variety, that is, the geographic divisions which always characterized one location differently from others; and even though there will always be several common shared terms across all or most locations, we can quite easily observe the following distinct divisions. Generally a very unique place not just in the terms used, but also the methods of fishing and types of boats. At the red sea region, the Bedouins of South Sinai have developed a totally unique and independent set of fishing terms. Unfortunately due to practical difficulties, I was unable to visit the Bedouins of North Sinai to make a comparison of the terms used there with those of the South. Finally, it remains to be said that this categorization is very general, and that of course in many occasions there are differences in the words used within the range of each of these regions, and there were probably several other differences that I did not come across or was unable to notice regarding the geographic differences in the terms used. Do you believe that any attempt by just one person to collect all the special jargon of fishermen and boatmen in Egypt would hardly result in complete success; not only due to the great multiplicity and variety of these terms, but also because the time and effort that will be required to collect them all might take several years? The truth is that the more time I spent in one locality, the more I kept finding new terms. Yet after I passed a certain stage of traveling and searching, I felt the time has come for me to stop! This was because my systematic way or methodology of searching for words started to become redundant, leading mostly to words which I had already registered. Then most of the new words I found came to me just by coincidence or chance out of a casual conversation here1!
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Jean’s sailing photo-diary
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Variations of the terms from one place to another are endless; a word such as “Medra”, the long thick wooden pole that is made of one type of phragmite reeds or another, and with which the fisherman propels his boat? We may well consider this to be a very rare case; in most other cases, not only did terms differ from one geographic location to another, but sometimes even within the same locality, most notably in the region of Southern Egypt, something which I think may have to do with the ease of movement and merging up and down the Nile stream. And truly, most fishermen in Aswan, the southernmost major city of Egypt, come from Sohag and Qina further in the north; and there I found great variances in the terms to the extent that, at first, I thought will make the task of geographic categorization impossible. For example, there is a well-known method of net-fishing that is commonly called “Gorrafa”, for which I discovered three different names in Southern Egypt: “Garfa” in Sohag, “Habla” in Qina, and “Dawwaar” in Asyut. Often, the fishermen themselves did not know these variances, or knew only of one or two names but not all. For such difficult variations I found help only from well-experienced fishermen who traveled a lot in fishing trips around the locality, and especially those older in age, such as Masters Fayez and Saber, two respected and highly esteemed fishermen whom I was honored to know and interview in Southern Egypt. In some cases, certain terms may seem akin or identical to normal language, but in these cases the way and the context in which they are being used will be special. In some other cases, providing a definition to certain terms was not as much easy and straightforward as it may appear, something which I consider to stand evidence of the remarkable degree of creativity and expressiveness of the Egyptian language and collective social consciousness, rather than the opposite, that is, the absence of accuracy and clarity as some may consider. At the same time, it won’t be difficult to find numerous very accurate and specific terms, that were produced by Egyptian fishermen and boatmen to communicate about accurate and specific ideas or objects. There are also different and separate names for each and every type of plant that grows on the banks of the Nile and lakes and seas, and for those which float over or swim inside them. And in Aswan (as well as in most other places), there is a unique name for every single rope or string that binds the fragments of the boat together, or fixes the sail and its outer elements over that boat, and control their movements. That is to say, instead of just saying “plants” or “ropes”, the observation of nature, along with the need to communicate in a manner that pays much attention to details, have driven the Egyptian fishermen and boatmen to produce more than just generic descriptions and terms. This, also, is a sign and manifestation of a high level of development regarding social consciousness and communication.
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At last, much of what I have been trying to demonstrate through this introduction, was for the purpose of showing the extent of variety of the terms, perhaps with an inner desire to absolve myself with regard to the many terms and expressions that this glossary must have missed. It is hardly possible for a researcher to reach a 100% result in a research of this kind, and I believe that the best result may be reached only via a decentralized approach, by means of the participation of many collectors, each in his or her own locality. And indeed I would be most pleased and thankful if anyone wished to make an addition or correction to this glossary, and I would be most happy if this research succeeded in helping others to pursue further results in the same or different domain. The most significant point, I think, is that while doing this research, I discovered that fishing and sailing were not the only public and social activities of which a wealth of unique expressions and jargon exists. Almost all other traditional occupations and crafts, such as carpentry, traditional architecture, tailoring and textile work, metal work, pottery, and most importantly, agriculture and farming, and many many other fields – all of these are filled with such wealth of expressions and more than expressions. For, it aught be noted that the search after words and terms almost always lead to more than just a linguistic discovery, as I have attempted to argue in this introduction; so many profound aspects about the general economic and social consciousness and activity of the people comes directly under light through a research of this kind. And even though my interviews with fishermen and boatmen had a specific purpose, “talking breeds talking” as the Egyptian proverb says, and I ended up learning so many facts about the life and experience of fishermen in Egypt, their troubles and their suffering. No less than all, had complained to me bitterly in protest of the neglect of the state and dominance of thugs over the resources of Egypt’s waters. The filth that accumulates there killing scores of eggs and the offspring of the fish. Lake Brollos is one of the most fabulous places on Earth, a natural reserve par excellence, nothing like the mixture of the uniqueness of its weather and kindness of its people exists anywhere else on Earth; yet filth is spread out everywhere, and the massive level of poverty and hardship in which the villagers and fishermen live, stings the heart and the conscience! This, is the general deplorable and derelict reality of Egypt!
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Jean’s sailing photo-diary
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The
Harpoon
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Quest 4
Breakfast.........................................104 Lunch...............................................116 Dinner..............................................128
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I’m a private chef, food photographer and have loved cooking since before I could see over the kitchen counter. For me, food has been a life long journey of exploration, discovery and experimentation that’s literally taken me all over the world. As I continue along my own culinary path, I hope to share with you some of the lessons and flavors that I pick up along the way. My philosophy on cooking is that it’s 50% technique, 40% inspiration and 10% ingredients. I strongly believe that if you’re armed with some basic techniques, you can make a tasty meal from the most derelict pantry. I truly believe that by making wholesome delicious food accessible to people of all backgrounds, the world becomes a better place. That is why I decided to write this section for NET. To show you the techniques I’ve learned, to introduce you to some new ingredients, and to inspire you to experiment and make good dishes better! Marc Matsumoto
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Squeeze yourself some orange juice, have a look through our delicious breackfast dishes that are wholesome and easy to prepare. Breakfast is the first meal taken after rising from a night’s sleep, most often eaten in the early morning before undertaking the day’s work.
Breakfast
Quest 4 Harpoon
Recipes by Mark Matsumoto
Breackfast
Directions Add the eggs and cream to a bowl and beat until you don’t see any clumps of egg white remaining. Heat a non-stick pan over medium low heat and add the butter. You know the pan is ready when the butter starts to sizzle.
Add the eggs, and let them cook undisturbed until you see the eggs go from translucent to opaque. This means the bottom layer has cooked.
Gently scrape up the curd that has formed at the bottom of the pan and let the remaining liquid settle all around the pan. Let the bottom layer of egg set again and then stir. Add the salmon and herbs and gently stir the mixture together. Transfer the eggs to a plate a little more wet than you’d like them as they will continue to cook from the residual heat. If the eggs are just right in the pan, they’ll be overcooked by the time you eat them. I like to take them out when the surface of the curds are still glossy, but there isn’t enough raw egg to run down the pan when you tip it sideways.
NET MAG × ISSUE #0 × SUMMER 2014 × ‘AWEOWEO
Ingredients 4 eggs 1 tablespoon cream 60 grams smoked salmon 8 grams fresh herbs minced 1 tablespoon butter
Scrambled Salmon
Here is an easy technique to get fluffy large curds that are perfectly cooked. I added in smoked salmon and some herbs, but you can add just about anything you want. If you’ve ever marveled at the thin slices of smoked salmon that come from your deli counter, you’ve probably also wondered what they do with all the end pieces and slices that come out less than perfectly. Recently I found the answer in a 1 pound bag of end - cut smoked salmon that was selling for $2.50! Yep, that’s the same salmon selling in the deli for $30 per pound. Sure, it may not look all that great, but if you’re not serving it to guests, who cares? It works especially well in dishes like this where the salmon is going to get mashed up anyway. If you’ve never had smoked salmon in scrambled eggs, you’re missing out. The salty from the salmon seasons the eggs and imbues the creamy curds with a wonderful smoky aroma. To head off any fishiness, I like to include a bunch of herbs. It’s usually whatever I have in the fridge, or growing in the garden and today, that mix happened to be basil, chervil and Italian parsley. While great ingredients are important, the key to this dish is in how you cook the eggs. It may seem simple, but I can’t tell you how many times I’ve been to fancy brunch places that were serving spongy, crumbly, or even watery scrambled eggs.
Harpoon
Tuna Biscuit
Ingredients 4 eggs 1 tablespoon cream 60 grams smoked salmon 8 grams fresh herbs minced 1 tablespoon butter
Directions Adjust the oven rack to the middle position and preheat to 475 degrees F (245 degrees C). Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. In a food processor, pulse the flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, and salt to combine.
Distribute the butter evenly over the flour and pulse 1 full second at a time until the mixture resembles gravel.
Add the cheese and pulse a few more times to break up the cheese, but be sure to leave some small chunks. Transfer this mixture to a bowl and stir in the chives.
Working quickly, put 4 small circles of batter down on the parchment paper and top each one with an egg standing upright. Cover each egg with the remaining batter and place the pan into the pre-heated oven. Bake for 4-5 minutes and then turn down the heat to 400 degrees F (200 C) and bake until the biscuits are golden brown (about another 7-10 minutes). Serve hot, or transfer to a wire rack to cool completely.
I’m going to share with you, one of the best things I’ve put into my mouth this year. It may not be much to look at from the outside, but crack these babies open and the fluffy cheddar and chive biscuit parts to reveal a soft boiled egg with a molten gold core. It may look like some kind of sorcery, but I assure you, there were no spells involved in the making of these magical biscuits. I wish I could lay claim to this brilliant idea, but I first saw something like this at Craftsman and Wolves in San Francisco, and I belive the idea comes from Texas baked eggs, where muffin tins are lined with biscuit dough and filled with raw egg before being baked. The real challenge is to boil the eggs as little as possible while still being able to peel them. If the white starts falling apart while peeling the egg, it will be almost impossible to form the biscuit dough around the eggs, so if you’re not confident in your peeling skills, give my post on perfect boiled eggs a read and make a few extras. I’ve found that 4 minute eggs are pretty tough to work with, so I usually let them go for 5 minutes. Lastly, using a good quality egg with a golden yolk is obvious, but most of the flavor in this biscuit comes from the cheddar, so be sure to find the best aged clothbound cheddar you can find.
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Breackfast
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Directions Put the crab in a medium-sized bowl and pick through it to make sure there are no bits of shell or cartilage hanging out. Be careful not to break up the chunks of crab too much.
Put the lemongrass, galangal, garlic, lime leaves and chili peppers into a small food processor and process until finely ground. Add the shrimp and coconut milk to the herbs and process until it forms a smooth Put the remaining panko in a bowl and coat both sides of the crab cakes.
You can refrigerate these for up to a day until you’re ready to fry them. To fry, add about 2 tablespoons of oil to a heavy bottomed pan and heat over medium heat until the oil shimmers. Add some of the crab cakes to the pan (don’t overcrowd your pan) and fry undisturbed until you can see the edges start to turn golden brown. If they are browning too fast, turn the heat down. Carefully flip them over using a spatula and tongs then fry until the crab cake is cooked through (an instant-read thermometer should read 140 degrees F in the center). Serve with lemon or lime wedges.
Ingredients 500 grams crab meat 16 grams lemongrass 16 grams galangal 8 grams garlic 4 kaffir lime leaves 1-2 thai bird chilies 200 grams shrimp 1/3 cup coconut milk 2/3 cup panko, for filling 1/4 cup fried shallots 1 cup panko, for coating oil for frying lemon or lime for serving
Curry Crab Cakes
When developing recipes sometimes even the most inspired ideas can come to screeching halt when an ingredient isn’t available. I had originally planned for some awesome crab and corn cakes this week, but after visiting 3 stores I couldn’t find any corn — fresh, canned or otherwise. Taking that as a sign that using corn in the middle of winter was not the best idea, I went home with over a pound of crab meat and no idea what I was going to do with it. Once home and with the freshness clock ticking on the crab, I rummaged through my pantry and fridge looking for some inspiration. The first thing I ran into was a bag of crispy fried shallots in the freezer. Then I came across some leftover lemongrass, kaffir lime leaves and galangal from a recent batch of beef rendang. A quick look in the pantry turned up a carton of coconut milk, and as fast as my original idea had crashed and burned, a new idea was born. Because it’s a crab cake (not a bread cake or mayonnaise cake), then I tend to pass on the traditional binders such as flour and egg, which tend to dilute the crab flavor. Instead, I bind my crab cakes using either shrimp or fish puree. With very little filler and giant hunks of sweet crabmeat redolent of a Thai green curry, these crab cakes may not be very traditional, but they are pretty darn tasty.
Harpoon
Tomato Crostini
Ingredients 400 grams cherry tomatoes 1/4 cup olive oil 1/2 teaspoon maldon salt black pepper 1 narrow baguette extra virgin olive oil 1 pack firm tofu 1/4 cup tahini 1 tablespoon za’atar 1 tablespoon lemon juice 1/4 teaspoon salt 1/4 teaspoon lemon zest 1 small clove garlic fresh thyme leaves
Directions Remove the stems from the tomatoes (if they have them) and toss them with 1/4 cup olive oil, 1/2 teaspoon of coarse salt and black pepper. Dump these onto a baking sheet including all the oil and roast in a 350 degree F (180 C) oven for 35-40 minutes.
While the tomatoes are roasting, slice the baguette, into 1/4-inch (7mm) thick slices, you should get about 40 slices from a baguette. Line them up in a single layer on a baking sheet, brush with olive oil and bake until golden brown (about 6-8 minutes).
Put the tofu in a cheese cloth and wring out as much water as you can.
You can also crumble the tofu into a fine mesh strainer and add a weight on top, letting it drain for about an hour. After squeezing, you should be left with about 250 grams of tofu.
Over the past few weeks, I have given you three different canapés to cover a diverse set of gatherings. This week, I wanted to finish the series off with a one-bite-wonder that should appeal to almost everyone. It’s a crisp crostini, slathered with a herbal za’atar spread, and topped with a concentrated burst of sweet umami that lingers far after you’ve swallowed the bite and moved onto a sip of bubbly. Although it happens to be vegan, this is a canapé that will appeal to anyone who likes a bite of something delicious. While the dip does contain tofu, the other ingredients mask any trace of the tofu smell, allowing it to work its magic, turning this into a smooth creamy spread, that falls somewhere between an chèvre and hummus, on both taste and texture. The spice, Za’atar, is a Middle Eastern blend spices that varies by region, but generally contains thyme, oregano, marjoram, sesame seeds, and sumac. It’s an awesome all-purpose seasoning and condiment that I use on everything from breads to salads to steaks. Za’atar is also the Arabic word for Thyme, so if you’re buying it from a Middle Eastern market, be sure you’re getting the blend and not just the thyme.
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Directions In a medium bowl, add the ground chicken, tofu, panko, soy sauce, Shaoxing wine, grated ginger, salt and white pepper. Use your hands to knead the mixture together until it is very uniform.
Add 1-inch of oil to a heavy bottomed pot and preheat to 340 degrees F (170 C). Get a tablespoon to measure out the chicken and put the potato starch into a bowl. Generously dust your hands with potato starch and scoop out 1 level tablespoon of meat mixture into the palm of your hand.
Roll the meat around to make it spherical and to dust the outside surface with potato starch. Place the meatballs on a non-stick baking sheet. Repeat until you’ve used all the meat. Fry the meatballs until golden brown, rolling them around so that they brown evenly. To make the sauce, whisk together the orange juice, marmalade and 2 teaspoons potato starch in a saute pan and bring to a boil. Add the fried meatballs and roll around to coat evenly. Serve hot or at room temperature.
Ingredients 450 grams ground chicken 225 grams silken tofu 120 grams panko 4 teaspoons soy sauce 4 teaspoons Shaoxing wine 2 teaspoon grated ginger 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/4 teaspoon white pepper 1/2 cup potato starch vegetable oil for frying
Chicken Polpettine
With August upon us, our schedules are filling up with holiday parties, club potlucks, and family get - togethers. Whether you’re hosting, having a few solid canapés will make you the star of any holiday shindig. Over the next four weeks, I’m going to show you a few of my favorite one-bite-wonders. One of my favorite canapes ever are Arancini. The little breaded rice balls, are crisp on the outside and soft and creamy on the inside. The name comes from the Italian word Arancina, which means “little orange.” The thing is, beyond the shape and a vaguely similar hue, arancini little in common with the diminutive fruit. It got me thinking how I could make an Arancini that was truer to the name. It was that train of thought that led me to these Orange Chicken Polpettine. Equal parts Chinese, American, and Italian, these “little meatballs” are tender mouthfuls of flavor that that are savory on the inside with a sweet citrusy lacquer on the outside. Inspired by the Chinese-American classic, orange chicken, and armed with techniques acquired while perfecting my spaghetti and meatballs, I set out to make some little oranges that are both delicious and easy to make. Since the meatballs can be shaped and fried in advance and then reheated in the oven before being glazed in the sauce, these are about as low effort as canapés get; perfect for bringing to a potluck.
Harpoon
Papaya brunch
Ingredients 1/3 cup lime juice (~ 1 1/2 limes) 3 tablespoons fish sauce 4 grams garlic (~1 clove) 1 tablespoon palm sugar Thai bird chilies (to taste) 500 grams green papaya (~1 small papaya) 150 grams tomatoes (~2 small tomatoes) cut into bite-size pieces 80 grams green beans trimmed and cut into 1 1/2-inch pieces 50 grams peanuts crushed 15 grams dried shrimp (optional) 7 grams cilantro (~1 plant) leaves plucked
Directions Put the fish sauce, lime juice, chiles, garlic and palm sugar in a blender or small food processor. Puree the mixture. You can also mince the chiles and grate the garlic and whisk the dressing together.
Peel the papaya and slice it in half. Use a spoon to scoop out the white seeds and pith from the center. Shred the papaya using a mandoline or a papaya shredder into a large bowl.
Pound the green beans and dried shrimp with a mallet to tenderize. Add the green beans, dried shrimp, tomatoes, peanuts, and cilantro. Pour the dressing on top and toss to coat.
While green papaya may seem a world apart from the tender orange tropical fruit we all know, green papayas aren’t a different species of papaya. They’re simply immature papayas may that have not yet begun to ripen. When green, they have white flesh, a neutral flavor and crunchy carrot-like texture making them perfect for salads. While green papaya is eaten in salads across Southeast Asia, each region has it’s own version. In Thailand green papaya salad is called Som Tam and is made with a giant mortar and pestle. Garlic and chilies are first crushed to release their flavors. Then, long beans, dried shrimp and peanuts are added and crushed. This not only tenderizes them, but it also helps them absorb more dressing. Finally the tomatoes, shredded papaya and dressing always go in and get mixed together. To replicate this without the mortar and pestle, I do a couple things differently. First, I add the garlic and chilies to the dressing and puree it in a food processor or blender. If you can’t tolerate a lot of heat, it might sometimes be best to leave them out or to scrape out the seeds and white membranes first to reduce the heat. Next, I pound the green beans(or long beans if you can find them) and dried shrimp using a mallet or meat tenderizer. Finally, all the ingredients go into a bowl and get tossed together.
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Alaska is one of the most popular cruise destinations in the world, and is very high on most cruise lovers’ list. Some of the most spectacular parts of Alaska can best be seen from the sea.
Snack
Quest 4 Harpoon
Recipes by Mark Matsumoto
Snack
Directions Wash, trim and cut the kangkung into 4 segments. Put the shallot, garlic, chili peppers, dried shrimp, belacan, and gula melaka in a mortar and pound with a pestle until it forms a chunky paste. You can also pulse them in a food processor.
Heat the oil in a large saute pan or wok until hot. Add the shrimp mixture and saute until fragrant and dark brown. Add the kangkung and 2
tablespoons of water and cover the pan with a lid. Steam for 1 minute and then remove the lid. Toss the vegetables and shrimp together until they’re evenly distributed. Serve immediately.
NET MAG × ISSUE #0 × SUMMER 2014 × ‘AWEOWEO
Ingredients 250 grams water 35 grams shallot 11 grams garlic 2 or 3 red chili peppers 20 grams dried shrimp 10 grams belacan 4 grams gula melaka 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
Kangkung Goreng
I made some ratatouille last week at my parents house. It seemed like a brilliant way to use up the bounty from their prolific vegetable garden, and was absolutely delicious. What wasn’t brilliant was the hours that stove was on, turning my parents home into a giant oven. With a continuous procession of vegetables coming off their vines and into the kitchen, I wondered if there was a way to make a ratatouille salad that still captures the essence of Summer while passing on the heat stroke. First idea was to quick pickle the vegetables and turn it into a salad but whenever I decide to alter a classic, I first stop to think about the characteristics that make a dish what it is. Since ratatouille’s soul lies inextricably intertwined with the non-enzymatic browning that Louis-Camille Maillard first described, my pickled salad idea failed to keep true to the essence of ratatouille. The thing is, since eggplants don’t pickle especially well, I’d actually planned to marinate and grill those separately. When it became clear that pickling wasn’t going to get me the sweet complex flavors I was looking for, I decided to just grill all the vegetables.
Shrimp and Avocado
Ingredients 225 grams dried spaghetti 1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil 10 grams flat leaf parsley 10 grams cilantro 4 grams chervil 1 clove garlic 30 grams Parmigiano 1/2 teaspoon salt 160 grams shrimp 100 grams crabmeat 1 ripe avocado 1 lemon
Directions Bring two large pots of water to a boil and add enough salt to make the water taste like the sea. In one of the pots, boil the the pasta according to the package directions. Add the olive oil, parsley, cilantro, chervil, garlic, parmesan and salt to a small food processor and process until smooth.
In the other pot, boil the shrimp until just cooked.
The exterior will turn pink when cooked, and the flesh will go from translucent to opaque. The time will depend on the size of your shrimp, but mine took about 1 minute. Drain and cover them with plastic wrap to keep them from drying out. Quarter the avocado, and then remove the pit. If your avocado is ripe, the quarters should peel easily by hand. Slice each quarter into 1/8” thick pieces and drizzle with the juice of 1/4 lemon to keep them from turning brown. When the pasta is done, drain it and add it to a bowl along with the shrimp, crab, avocado and pesto. Toss with tongs to coat everything evenly, then serve immediately with lemon wedges.
Cravings often manifest themselves as a reaction to something I see, rather than from a recollection of something I’ve actually eaten. I was out grocery shopping the other day and as I walked through the mall connecting the grocery store to the nearby train station, I noticed a big glossy poster outside a chain restaurant promoting their dish. It showed a crown of giant shrimp, atop a mound of spaghetti tossed in a verdant green pesto. I’m sure the actual dish was far less impressive, but the poster did its job and snagged my attention. In fact I found myself craving those juicy coral prawns and emerald strands of pasta hours after arriving home. My lazier briefly contemplated returning to the cafe for dinner, but past experience has taught me to be weary of the lust-inducing talents of food photographers. As luck would have it, I’d picked up some shrimp that day, along with some lump crabmeat. I also had an avocado that was at its prime, and since avocado and crab make for a delicious combo in sushi, I figured they should mingle nicely in pasta as well. What I didn’t have, was basil to make the pesto. But who says pesto has to be made with basil? It’s not like “pesto” is the Italian word for basil, and I had an abundance of other green herbs such as cilantro, flat-leaf parsley and chervil sitting in my vegetable drawer withering away.
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Directions Wash the rice and add to a rice cooker or heavy bottomed pot. Prepare a strainer and bowl so you don’t overcook the oysters.
Put two cups of water and the dashi kombu in a small sauce pan and bring to a boil over high heat. Add the oysters and cook for exactly 1 minute and drain the oyster stock into a bowl and set both aside. Heat the oil in a frying pan over medium high heat and saute the ginger until fragrant (but not browned). Add the bamboo, fried tofu and sugar and saute until the sugar just starts to caramelize.
Add the sake, soy sauce, salt and drained oysters and stir-fry until the oysters are cooked through. Rice Cooker Directions If you are cooking the rice in a rice cooker, strain the remaining liquid from the stir-fry into the rice cooker bowl with the rice. Add the oyster stock until you reach the bottom of the 2 cup mark on the rice cooker bowl and then add the dashi kombu you used to make the oyster stock. Cook the rice in the rice cooker. Stovetop Directions If you are cooking the rice on the stovetop, strain the liquid into a 2 cup (US) liquid measuring cup.
Ingredients 325 grams Japanese rice 2 cups water 6 centimeters dashi kombu 270 grams oysters - shucked 1 teaspoon vegetable oil 8 grams ginger julienned 100 grams prepared bamboo shoots cut into bite-size pieces 50 grams abura-age 1 tablespoon sugar - unrefined 1 tablespoon sake 2 tablespoons soy sauce 1/4 teaspoon salt
Kaki Meshi
Because the waters around Japan become warm in summer, oysters are typically only eaten in months that include an “r” (September through april). With the end of oyster season approaching, I found a half pound bag of shucked oysters at my local supermarket on sale for about $7 and couldn’t resist. While pre-shucked oysters are convenient, bivalves tend to lose their freshness much faster than other seafood, which is why I’d never eat a pre-shucked oyster raw. Still, oysters can be just as tasty when lightly cooked and can make an incredibly flavorful broth, which is why I decided to make this Kaki Meshi. With crunchy bamboo shoots, savory abura-age and creamy morsels of oyster hidden amongst mouth-wateringly savory grains of rice, this Japanese classic is a one-bowl meal that tastes even better than it looks. Abura-age (pronounced ah-boo-rah-ah-geh), which literally means “fried in oil” is a tofu product that’s been thinly sliced and deep fried. It has a meat-like texture that absorbs flavors like a sponge, making it a bit like oyster flavored ham, when mixed in with the rice. Although some people like to cook the oysters together with the rice, I prefer cooking them separately and mixing them together at the end. To get oyster flavor into the rice, I quickly blanch the oysters in boiling water to make a stock. Then I cook them with soy sauce sake and sugar.
Harpoon
Golabki
Ingredients 1 head cabbage 145 grams farro 1 tablespoon olive oil 150 grams onion chopped 10 grams garlic finely minced 300 grams beef 150 grams pork 15 grams parsley minced 1 teaspoon salt 1/2 teaspoon black pepper 5 grams dried shiitake mushroom 400 grams whole stewed tomatoes 1 cup low sodium chicken stock 1 tablespoon paprika 1 teaspoon salt 1 onion crème fraîche optional
Directions Remove the core from the cabbage. It’s important that you get as much of the core as possible, or it’s going to make removing the leaves difficult in the next step. Place the head of cabbage in a pot that’s just large enough to hold it.
Cover the cabbage with water, add 1 tablespoon of salt, cover and bring to a boil over high heat. While you’re waiting for the water to boil, put the farro in a strainer and rinse thoroughly.
Once the water comes to a boil, use tongs to carefully peel off individual leaves of cabbage and place them in a
bowl of cold water to stop the cooking. Once you have about 12 leaves (you want a few extra in case you tear one), remove the rest of the cabbage and set aside for another use.
In my personal experience, I realized I’d come to associate cabbage rolls with soggy logs of mystery meat and mushy rice where one bite tastes exactly the same as the next, but with a reach spanning the globe from Poland to Egypt and Japan, I knew there had to be more to this comfort food than some misplaced sense of nostalgia. That’s why I set out to make these cabbage rolls not only comforting, but delicious as well. My goal was to make plump parcels of melt-in your mouth cabbage, stuffed with a flavorful meaty filling brought together by a sauce that would harmonize rather than compete against the various elements. I also wanted enough variety in texture and flavor to keep my mouth interested, bite-after-bite, until all that was left were a few smears of errant sauce on my plate. To accomplish this dish , I decided to braise my rolls in the oven, it not only renders the cabbage transparently tender, the long cooking time softens the meat, avoiding the need to add fillers like bread crumbs. Because I love the idea of having something in the filling absorb the flavors of the meat and sauce, I didn’t want to do away with the rice, but the problem with rice is that it tends to turn to mush when cooked in a liquid for too long.
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Directions Melt the butter in a saute pan over medium high heat and then add the garlic and ginger. Saute until fragrant and just starting to brown and then add the onions, bay leaves, green cardamom, black cardamom, and cinnamon stick.
Turn down the heat to medium low and fry the onions, stirring periodically until they are a caramel color and have reduced to about 1/4 of their original volume (30-40 minutes). When the onions are caramelized, add the curry powder and fry until fragrant.
Add the tomato juice, chicken stock and soy sauce, and turn up the heat to bring the soup to a boil. Add the chicken legs and chili peppers (optional), cover with a lid, and turn down the heat to maintain a gentle simmer. Cook for 40 minutes. While the chicken cooks, prepare all the vegetables and mix the garam masala with 1 teaspoon of salt in a small bowl. When the chicken is done, remove the chicken from the liquid and place on a wire rack over a sheet pan.
Ingredients Butter 15 grams garlic 25 grams ginger - fresh 520 grams onion 2 bay leaves 5 pods green cardamom 1 pod black cardamom 1 cinnamon stick 2 tablespoons curry powder 2 cups tomato juice 2 cups chicken stock 1 tablespoon soy sauce 620 grams chicken fresh chili peppers 200 milliliters coconut milk Vegetables 1 teaspoon garam masala 1 teaspoon salt vegetable oil for frying
Soup Curry
While most Americans know Sapporo for the eponymous beer, it’s also the 5th largest city in Japan, and the capital of Hokkaido. A stonesthrow away from Siberia, it snows six months out of the year, and is famous for the tasty things come out of the frigid waters. Whether it’s the bitter cold, or the historical Russian and Mongolian influences in the region, they do things a little differently up there. The country-side is a patchwork of potato and dairy farms that looks more like a scene from Denmark than what you’d expect from the northernmost island of Japan. I’ve mentioned before that Japanese curry is the de facto national dish of Japan. With its sweet roux-thickened gravy, Japanese curry seems like just the type of dish to take the edge off sub-zero temperatures, and yet determined to buck the trend, Sapporo has come up with its own take on curry. Soup Curry is a light curry flavored soup served with some type of meat, and a rainbow of roasted vegetables. Although it’s a relatively recent concoction, soup curry has blown up over the past decade, with shops specializing in the local dish almost as abundant as shops specializing in another local dish: miso ramen. Despite its popularity, I’ve never been a huge a fan of soup curry. Closer to vegetable soup than a curry, It’s surprising how little spice gets added to most restaurant versions of this dish.
Harpoon
Buta no Kakuni
Ingredients 600 grams pork belly 45 grams ginger - fresh 12 grams garlic 6 grams niboshi 1/3 cup sake 1 1/2 cups water 1 tablespoon sugar - granulated 1 tablespoon soy sauce 1 teaspoon salt
Directions Cut the pork into 2 1/2” squares. Put the pork belly, fat side down, in a small heavy bottomed pot (such as a dutch oven) that’s just large enough to hold the pork in a single layer. Put the pot over medium high heat
and let the pork fry undisturbed until it’s golden brown on the fat side. Flip each piece over and brown the other side, then transfer to a plate.
Add the ginger, garlic, and niboshi and and fry until browned and fragrant. Add the sake and boil until you no longer smell alcohol.
Add the water, sugar, soy sauce, salt, and return the pork to the pot. Bring to a simmer and then turn down the heat and cover with a tight fitting lid. Simmer until the pork belly is fall-apart-tender (about 2 hours). Strain the braising liquid and if you are going to serve the kakuni right away, skim off the extra fat. It’s best if you let this sit in the fridge overnight though as this gives the meat a chance to absorb more flavor, and it will make removing the excess fat a lot easier.
Pork belly is one of unctuous culinary pleasures that you know will kill you some day, but you can’t resist taking another bite. The magic of pork belly is hidden in the way the fat and meat are distributed; either one on its own would be cloyingly rich or insipidly bland, but layer the fat and meat like an opera cake, you end up with a gloriously moist and tender morsel that floods your mouth with flavor. As it worked its way from China to Okiawa to Nagasaki, the dish evolved, adapting to local ingredients and tastes. For my version, I like to use dried sardines to add some oomph to the broth while I also include some ginger and garlic to smooth over any overly aggressive fish and pork notes. I’ve also changed my method since I first published this dish, preferring to brown the pork belly first rather than just it. This adds complexity to the flavor though if you prefer a lighter dish, just give the pork a five minute boil in water, before adding it to the rest of the ingredients to simmer. Cooked over low heat for a long period of time, much of the fat renders out, and the collagen breaks down into gelatin making the entire thing dissolve in your mouth quickly contact. Buta no Kakuni is pretty awesome with some hot mustard and and a frosty mug of beer or sliced up on a bed of hot rice. The braising liquid can be diluted and turned into an awesome broth for for a bowl of buta udon. 123
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Alaska is one of the most popular cruise destinations in the world, and is very high on most cruise lovers’ list. Some of the most spectacular parts of Alaska can best be seen from the sea.
Dinner
Quest 4 Harpoon
Recipes by Mark Matsumoto
Dinner
Directions Use paper towels to remove as much moisture from the surface of the scallops as you can. Bring a large pot of heavily salted water to a boil then add the pasta. I like my pasta very al dente, so if the package says 9 minutes I usually only boil it for 8.
Start heating a large sauté pan over medium high heat. Generously salt and pepper the scallops on both sides, and then dust each side of the scallops in the flour (try not to get any flour onto the sides of the scallops).
By now, your pan should be hot. Add the olive oil and then add the scallops. Fry on one side until they turn opaque about a third of the way up the sides. Flip them over and fry until they’re opaque about a third of the way up the second side (the middle third should still be translucent). Transfer the scallops to a cutting board, and then add the garlic to the pan.
NET MAG × ISSUE #0 × SUMMER 2014 × ‘AWEOWEO
Ingredients 300 grams “dry” sea scallops 340 grams dried spaghetti 1/4 cup olive oil salt and pepper 1/4 cup all-purpose flour 2 cloves of garlic smashed
Dry Scallops in Garlic
If you’ve been to an upscale fishmonger lately, you may have seen them selling dry scallops. While you probably wouldn’t want to order a dry pork chop or a dry slice of cake, in the case of scallops, “dry” in the label is a good thing. Most of the sea scallops are treated with phosphates to help preserve them, but these chemicals also make the scallops absorb water. This is good for the people selling scallops, but it’s bad for you because you’re essentially paying for the extra water, the scallops have absorbed. Aside from tasting watery, treated scallops also have some mushy texture, and leave a weird aftertaste. When scallops are labeled as “dry” it means that they have not been chemically treated. The best meat tends to be firmer with a delicate sweetness and savory flavor that sets off umami receptors on your tongue like lights in a pinball machine. Of course the lower yield and shorter shelf-life means they’re going to cost more per pound, but if you consider the better taste, along with the fact that you’re not paying for bloat, they’re definitely worth the premium. The sweet crunchy garlic scapes are both a perfect compliment and contrast to the sweet tender scallops. With each strand of pasta coated with nutty Parmigiano Reggiano, and a lacquer of browned garlic flavored olive oil make.
Poached Salmon Verde
Harpoon
Ingredients 30 grams dry seaweed teaspoon rice vinegar 1 tablespoon sesame oil 1 tablespoon soy sauce 1 tablespoon sugar 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/2 spoon ginger juice 1 spoon sesame seeds 1 scallion
Directions Put the dry seaweed in a large bowl and fill it with cold water. If you like your seaweed crunchy, soak it for 5 minutes, if you like it more tender, soak it for 10 minutes. To make the dressing, combine the rice vinegar, sesame oil, soy sauce, sugar, salt and ginger juice in a small bowl and whisk together.
Drain the seaweed and use your hands to squeeze out excess
water. Wipe out any excess water in the bowl, and then return the seaweed along with the dressing and sesame seeds. Toss thoroughly to combine. Plate the salad and garnish with scallions.
I’ve always loved poaching salmon because it keeps the fish both tender and moist. The problem is that by submerging the salmon in water, you end up losing flavor in the poaching of liquid. That’s why vacuum sealing the fillet in a bag and cooking it sous vide is such a great solution. You get melt-in-yourmouth salmon without watering down the flavor. But cooking sous vide has its own set of drawbacks, the most obvious one being that many people don’t have a sous vide setup at home. Also, when you’re dealing with large pieces of fish (like a whole fillet of salmon), it’s tough to find a bag and chamber vacuum large enough to accommodate it. That’s why I developed this method of poaching salmon in a regular oven set to a low temperature. By wrapping the fillet in foil, you’re not constrained to the size of vacuum bags. This allows the salmon to slowly poach in its own juices, making it incredibly tender and moist, without giving up any flavor. The sauce is a light citrusy salsa verde made with cilantro, lemon juice, garlic and olive oil. It’s a perfect accompaniment for summer, and if you love cilantro, you’ll want to drink this sauce. Even if you’re not a big fan of cilantro, this sauce may just change your mind. That’s because it’s mixed with flat-leaf parsley, which pulls back the floral flavors of cilantro that some people consider “soapy”.
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Directions As soon as you bring your clams home from the store (preferably one day before you make the clam chowder) wash the clams with cold water and then put the clams in a bowl with enough salt water to cover the clams ( it should taste like the sea).
Put the bowl in your refrigerator. Over the next 24 hours your clams will do their thing and siphon in the clean water expelling most of the grit they hold between their shells. If your clams are really dirty, you may need to change the water periodically.
In a wide pot or sauté pan with a lid, add the clams along with 1/2 cup water. Cover and steam over medium high heat until all the clams have opened. Remove the pot from the heat and uncover. Remove the clam meat from the shells and transfer to a bowl. Discard any unopened clams. Once all the clams have been shelled, slowly pour the clam stock over the clams, leaving the last tablespoon or so of stock along with any grit in the pot. Wash the pot out.
Ingredients 2 kilograms clams Manila, Littleneck or Soft-Shell 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil 100 grams slab bacon cut into 1/2-centimeter cubes 1 medium onion minced 2 tablespoons flour 3 cups milk 450 grams potatoes cut into small cubes 1 teaspoon fresh marjoram minced 1 bay leaf
Clam Chowder
In a world where most clam chowders would be more aptly named “clam flavored potato soup”, finding a morsel of clam is like winning a Toyota Camry. It’s a feeling of elation that’s quickly tamped down by the realization that the rubbery clam is bland and tasteless. That’s not a problem you’ll have in my version of the New England classic, as I include nearly 5 pounds of clams! Of course the problem with fresh clams is that they live in the muck at the bottom of the ocean, and so eating clams is often synonymous with eating sand. For Superman it’s kryptonite, for others it’s the sound of fingernails scraping across a chalkboard, for me it’s grit in my food. Whether it’s an errant shard of egg shell or a grain of sand in in my clams, one bite is all it takes to ruin an otherwise delicious meal. This aversion to chewing on dirt is the main reason why I avoided eating these succulent bivalves. That is, until I figured out a series of tricks to get rid of virtually all the sand in the clams. The first thing is to soak the clams in salt water, which will trick them into thinking they’re back in the ocean. After a while, the clams will open up and peak their little necks out, squirting out murky water and taking in the fresh salt water from the bowl. This gets the clams mostly grit-free, there are always the stubborn ones.
Tartare with Yuzu Gelée
Harpoon
Ingredients 1 cup dashi 1 teaspoon salt 1/2 teaspoon soy sauce 1/2 teaspoon sugar 5 grams gelatin 1 tablespoon yuzu juice 220 grams sashimi tuna 1 teaspoon olive oil 1 tablespoon chives 1 tablespoon sesame seeds 2 teaspoons soy sauce 1 avocado cut into 1/2 1/2 lemon juiced
Directions In a small saucepan, bring the dashi to a boil, then add the salt, soy sauce, and sugar,
stirring until dissolved. Remove the pan from the heat and sprinkle on the gelatin. Stir until the gelatin is dissolved. Stir in the yuzu juice, then pour the mixture into a container and refrigerate until set.
Slice the tuna into strips, and then cut them into 1/2” cubes. Add it to a bowl along with the olive oil, chives, sesame seeds and soy sauce. Stir to combine. Cover and refrigerate until your gelée is set.
When your ready to serve, cut the avocado into cubes and sprinkle with the lemon juice and a little salt. Toss to distribute evenly. To construct your tartare, oil a ring mold and place it in the center of a plate. Add a layer of tuna and gently pack it down.
This tuna tartare is easy to make and makes for an impressive first course for a dinner party. With a flavorful layer of tuna marinated in olive oil, soy sauce and chives, a layer of creamy avocado, and a magical gelée made with with yuzu infused dashi, it’s as visually stunning as it is orally stimulating. The gelée has just enough gelatin to thicken the dashi into a sauce that will stay on put. When you take a bite, the heat of your mouth instantly melts the dashi turning into a pool of flavor with a vibrant flourish of yuzu and smoky umami from the dashi. The keys to being successful are the quality of your dashi and the salmon fish. Dashi, is the word for “stock” in Japanese, but unless it’s preceded by a qualifier (like chicken, shiitake, etc), it usually refers to a stock made with a combination of kombu (kelp) and katsuobushi (dried bonito). While there are several ways to make dashi, I prefer using “dashi packs” which have the ingredients ground up and sealed into little tea bags. It strikes a good balance between convenience and quality. As for the fish, it doesn’t have to be tuna, you could substitute sea bream (tai), halibut (hirame), white trevally (shima-aji), or other lean fish that’s been handled and prepared to be eaten raw.
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Directions Scrub the potatoes well, then cut into 1/4” thick batons. Dry thoroughly with paper towels and leave them sitting on paper towels to allow the surface of the potatoes to dry out for about 30 minutes.
You can skip this step if you’re pressed for time, but your potatoes won’t turn out as crisp. Mix the flour, cornstarch, paprika, and onion powder in a medium bowl until well combined. Dust each fish fillet with the flour mixture on all sides.
Add 1 1/2” of vegetable oil to a heavy bottomed pot and heat to 330 degrees F. Line a 2 wire racks with 2 layers of paper towels each. Fry the potatoes in batches until a light tan color and the edges are just starting to brown. Transfer the fried chips to one prepared rack to drain. When the potatoes are done frying, add the baking powder to the flour mixture and whisk together. Then add the cold beer to the flour mixture and lightly whisk together. It’s okay if there are still a few lumps, just make sure you do not overmix the batter or it will end up heavy. Dip the fillets in the batter and fry them in batches. Flip the fillets over with tongs when you see the edges start to turn light brown. Transfer to the second prepared rack as they finish frying.
Ingredients 4 medium potatoes 4 medium fish fillets cod 1/2 cup + 2 tablespoons flour 2 tablespoons cornstarch 1/4 teaspoon paprika 1/4 teaspoon onion powder Vegetable oil 1/4 teaspoon baking powder 1/2 cup very cold beer
Fish and chips
It’s been over three years since my last fish and chips post. While there was nothing wrong with it, I’ve always been a fan of the adage “if it ain’t broke, then take it apart and make it better”. Yep, I was “that kid” that would take apart a brand new Nintendo (amongst other household items) to figure out how to make it play foreign games. Today, I blame that inquisitive nature for my penchant for cooking without recipes. When I get asked if I follow my own recipes I usually give very long answers that include the definition of the word “recipe”, but my short answer is “no”. Some people want consistency when they make a dish. For me, I relish the small variations that occur when cooking without a recipe. Part of it is the element of surprise, but it’s also driven by the small chance that a change will make a big improvement in the finished dish. It’s a process of culinary evolution and lessons learned in one dish often carry over to many others. I’ve always double fried french fries, but I’d assumed I’d end up with a dry tough brick if I tried applying the same technique to meat or fish. After realizing a double fry was the secret to making crispy tebasaki, I decided to try this technique in other fried dishes. As it turns out, double frying works brilliantly with fish and chips, rendering the beer batter light, crisp and keeping it crisp long after coming out of the oil.
Harpoon
Wonton Soup
Ingredients 2 teaspoons potassium carbonate Koon Chun sells it in bottles 300 grams shrimp 250 grams shrimp shells 15 grams dried pollack 5 cups water 3 scallions 1 tablespoon sugar 1 1/4 teaspoon salt to taste 1/2 teaspoon soy sauce 1/2 teaspoon potato starch 1 teaspoon oyster sauce 1 + 1/2 teaspoon Shaoxing wine 1/2 teaspoon ginger juice white pepper to taste 1/2 teaspoon sugar - granulated 1/4 teaspoon salt 280 grams Chinese noodles 1 package wonton wrappers toasted sesame oil
Directions The day before you want to make your wonton soup, peel and devein your shrimp. If you want your shrimp to look whole, you devein them without slicing them open by using a toothpick inserted along one side of the vein, to dig the vein out. Once it’s peaking out, you should be able to pull the vein out with your fingers.
Put the cleaned shrimp in a bowl and cover with just enough cold water so that the shrimp is submerged. Add the potassium carbonate and stir.
Cover and refrigerate overnight. To make the stock, add the shrimp shells, dried pollack, water, sugar, salt, and soy sauce to a stock pot. Trim the green parts of the scallions and add them to the pot, reserving the white part for the wontons. Bring the mixture to a boil over high heat. Skim off any foam that rises to the surface. Lower the heat to maintain a simmer continuing to remove any foam as it accumulates. Cook until the broth is very flavorful 30-40 minutes.
If you’ve ever had shrimp in an authentic chinese restaurant, you’ve probably noticed that the shrimp are extremely supple. To say they’re crunchy is a weird description but they’ve traded in the normally soft and stringy texture for a firm springy texture. In Chinese, there’s even a phrase for this: shuing cuì, which literally means “invigorating and crisp”. Getting your shrimp shuing cuì is of utmost importance for most Chinese dishes and wontons are no exception. Traditionally some shrimp used to soak under very cold running water for hours to achieve this texture. As it turns out, the texture has less to do with the temperature of the water and more to do with the fact that in some areas of China, the water is naturally alkali. You can replicate this at home, by adding something alkali to your water to raise its pH. While baking soda will work to some extent, using a strong base like potassium carbonate works better. In case you were wondering, this is also what gives ramen noodles their yellow color and firm bite. Because of the shrimp needs to be soaked, and the stock takes a bit of time, this isn’t a quick weeknight meal. But for your efforts, you’ll be rewarded with wontons that rival some of the best shops in Hong Kong in a rich savory broth that will have you rue the day you ever have to eat wonton soup at a Chinese American restaurant. 135
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Kenya by P e mb a ch a nn e l f i sh i n g club
We are fortunate in having superb fishing almost all the year, and the exclusive Pemba Channel Fishing Club is synonymous with the finest fishing in Kenya. Some of the most exhilarating and challenging deep-sea fishing is available in the blue waters of Shimoni and you have a better chance of catching a Striped Marlin from the Pemba Channel than anywhere else in the world. Traditionally when the Kaskazi (north east monsoon) blows, the billfish arrive in great numbers. There are two very definite seasons, the Yellowfin Tuna season, which runs from August to the end of October, and the marlin season, which runs from December to mid March. Agriculture in Kenya dominates Kenya’s economy. 15–17 percent of Kenya’s total land area has sufficient fertility and rainfall to be farmed, and 7–8 percent can be classified as first-class land. In 2006, almost 75 percent of working Kenyans made their living by farming, compared with 80 percent in 1980. About one-half of Kenya’s total agricultural output is non-marketed subsistence production. 142
Water Proof Agriculture is also the largest contributor to Kenya’s gross domestic product (GDP). In 2005, agriculture, including forestry and fishing, accounted for about 24 percent of the GDP, as well as for 18 percent of wage employment and 50 percent of revenue from exports. Farming is the most important economic sector in Kenya, although less than 8 percent of the land is used for crop and feed production, and less than 20 percent is suitable for cultivation. Kenya is a leading producer of tea and coffee, as well as the third-leading exporter of fresh produce, such as cabbages, onions and mangoes. Small farms grow most of the corn and also produce potatoes, bananas, beans and peas. Some of the most common varieties that Kenyan sweet potato farmers grow are white, red and purple. The yellow-fleshed sweet potato’s popularity has increased, due to nutritionists promoting it a source of vitamin A, which is lacking in the Kenyan diet. The vitamin A deficiency is not fatal, but it leaves the immune system depleted and susceptible to measles, malaria and diarrhoea. The deficiency also may cause blindness. Kenyan people farm to help their children Despite efforts to develop completely resistant plants, little has been achieved so far. Therefore, attention is turning to pseudo-resistance, which includes mitigating weevil damage through deeper storage roots formation and short-season varieties, which are exposed to weevil infestation for less time. Where farmers piecemeal their sweet potato harvest, there can be up to a 10 percent crop loss due to disease and weevils. Beetle pests can completely destroy sweet potato plantations. Because of pests, disease and decreased soil nutrients, farmers are rotating their sweet potato plants as much as possible, which means using a field for sweet potato plants only once every 5 years, and not having the crop in the same field for two consecutive years. Planting rice between two sweet potato crops have long been suggested. When sweet potatoes and rice crops were planted in fields adjacent to each other, the sweet potato weevil infestation level dropped. “Reduced weevil damage was observed when sweet potato was intercropped with proso millet and sesame, but sweet potato yield was also considerably reduced. The sweet potato has been found to inhibit germination of proso millet.” This crop rotation and growing pattern is very common in Africa. Weed control requires many hours of manual labour. Uncontrolled weed growth reduces crop yield by as much as 60 percent. “Some farmers solve this problem by cultivating a smaller area, but this also reduces total yields. Herbicides are too expensive for most smallholders.” When the sweet potato plant is propagated a number of consecutive times, the yield decreases and virus build-up increases. “Viruses can be removed by
heat treatment. The process usually increases the yield product of both vine and roots, from 20 percent to 200 percent, depending on the severity of the original virus infestation”. An 8-year comparative study, the Sustainable Agriculture Farming Systems project, compared conventional farming systems with differing practices of crop rotation and soil substance. The results showed that organic methods had yields in the same range as conventional systems for all crops that were studied, and for some crop studies, the yield level was higher for organics than conventional systems. The organic systems were noted for “increases in the organic carbon content of the soil and larger pools of stored nutrients, each of which is critical for long-term fertility maintenance.” The Pemba Channel provides us with six species of billfish including Black, Blue and Striped Marlin, Sailfish, Broadbill Swordfish and the elusive Shortbill Spearfish, so your chances of catching a grand slam (1 each of any 3 billfish in one day) is very real. Season During August to the end of October, large Blacks can be found amongst the Tuna. The prime Marlin season runs from mid November to end of March.
Sail Fish The Sailfish is one of the most colourful game fish of all - its outstanding feature is the long, high first dorsal which is slate or cobalt blue with a scattering of black spots. Its body is dark blue and silver and lights up with white dots and lines of electric blue. It is a very acrobatic fish and will dive quicker than the marlin because of its size and surrounds. They are a migratory species usually travelling alone or in small groups. Its fighting ability and spectacular aerial acrobatics endear the Sailfish to the saltwater angler, but it tires quickly and is considered a light tackle species. The Blue Marlin is the largest of the Marlin family. The Pemba Channel is perhaps one of the premier destinations for Broadbill fishing. It is a more streamlined version of the Black Marlin For fly-fishermen who are trying big game fishing on fly for the first time the Sailfish is the perfect species to try your luck. Season - are seen and caught throughout the fishing season but most prolific during December and January.
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Kenya ing in huge speed take off compared to other Marlin. The Blue is a powerful aggressive fighter, known for its impressive athletic abilities on the surface, clearing the water time and time again. They run hard and long, and leap high into the air in a seemingly inexhaustible display of strength, although they are prone to going deep to conserve their energy. The Blue is known to charge a lure on a number of occasions, so be patient until a good hook up can be achieved. Blue Marlin, of up to 600lb, are not uncommon here. The biggest Blue Marlin caught from the Club weighed in at 724 ½ lbs. This fish was caught in a September, during the Tuna season. Season - During August to end October large Blues can be found amongst the Tuna. Blues and Blacks follow, and gorge on, the shoals of Yellowfin Tuna at this time of the year and are usually fatter than later in the season. The prime Marlin season runs from mid November to end of March. Broadbill (Xiphias gladius) is know as the ‘Gladiator of the Sea’ due to its reputation of being the toughest of all the billfish with a violent mood, and is considered by many to be the toughest of all billfish to catch - the ultimate challenge in big game fishing. Characteristically, it has a smooth, very broad, flattened sword (broadbill) that is significantly longer and wider than the bill of any other billfish. It has considerable big blue eyes, and is a ferocious night feeder. They are deep-water predators and are known to go to depths of at least 550m. They are finicky, easily frightened and rarely strike blindly. When hooked it takes deep and rapid dives and with the combination of the soft flesh around the mouth and its slashing bill (sword) it makes for a real challenge to catch. Four Broadbill world records have been taken on fly on the Kenyan Coast. The Pemba Channel is perhaps one of the premier destinations for Broadbill fishing. We troll the Channel for Broadbill at night. Special trips to a sea mountain, 55 nautical miles due east of Shimoni can be arranged from the Club. Season - all year but best in October, November and March when the seas are very calm. December before the wind goes round to the north-east can also be an excellent time for Broadbill fishing. The Sailfish is one of the most strikingly colourful game fish of all - its outstanding feature is the long, high first dorsal which is slate or cobalt blue with a scattering of black spots. Its body is dark blue and silver and lights up with white dots and lines of electric blue. It is a very acrobatic fish and will dive quicker than the marlin because of its size and surrounds. They are a migratory species usually travelling alone or in small groups. Its fighting ability and spectacular aerial acrobatics endear the Sailfish to the saltwater angler, but it tires quickly and is considered a light tackle species. For fly-fishermen who are trying big game fishing on fly for the first time the Sailfish is the perfect species to try your luck.
The Pemba Channel provides us with six species of billfish including Black, Blue and Striped Marlin, Sailfish, Broadbill Swordfish and the elusive Shortbill Spearfish, so your chances of catching a grand slam (1 each of any 3 billfish in one day) is very real. Striped Marlin are the most prolific of the Marlin and they seasonally migrate through the natural corridor between Pemba Island and the mainland. In addition to long runs and tail walks, it will ‘greyhound’ across the surface, making a dozen or more long, graceful leaps. Compared to a Blue or a Black it is considerably more slender and is the most colourful of all Marlin. Just before striking or when the Striped Marlin is annoyed, fourteen iridescent blue lines spark up the Marlin’s body. It is one of those must see moments a Striped Marlin lighting up to strike one of your baits. Striped Marlin are most prolific from November to March, sometimes showing in packs of up to ten, which makes it a good chance of getting a personal best. Season - The prime Marlin season runs from mid November to end of March. In March it would seem that the fish are much larger than average. The two biggest Striped Marlin taken from the Club were 254lb. caught on March 6 and 269lb. caught on March 22. A highly rated game fish, the Black Marlin has the power, size and persistence of which anglers dream! This Marlin has tremendous power, and is known for its long runs and tail walking. Black Marlin in Kenyan waters are generally larger than the other Marlin and have short, heavy bodies with the fins virtually locked in position. Black Marlin have been caught weighing over 2000lb by commercial fishermen. The Black Marlin is noted as a violent feeder at the top of the food chain and feeds on other game fish and small bait fish. Remember, if you do get a strike give the Marlin plenty of time to swallow the bait. The largest Black Marlin to be caught from the Club weighed in at 800lb and was caught during the September Tuna season. Season - During August to the end of October, large Blacks can be found amongst the Tuna. The prime Marlin season runs from mid November to end of March. The Blue Marlin is the largest of the Marlin family. It is a more streamlined version of the Black Marlin. It has a long slender bill extending up to a virtual point on the top of the head where the dorsal fin slants, result-
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Local catching Sail Fish in the Indian Ocean
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Port of Mombasa
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Port of Malindi
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India by R a j i v G a ndh i C e n t e r f o r Aqu a cul t ur e
Fishing in India is a major industry in its coastal states, employing over 14 million people. Fish production in India has increased more than tenfold since its independence in 1947. According to the Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO) of the United Nations, fish output in India doubled between 1990 and 2010. India has 8,118 kilometers of marine coastline, 3,827 fishing villages, and 1,914 traditional fish landing centers. India’s fresh water resources consist of 195,210 kilometers of rivers and canals, 2.9 million hectares of minor and major reservoirs, 2.4 million hectares of ponds and lakes, and about 0.8 million hectares of flood plain wetlands and water bodies. As of 2010, the marine and freshwater resources offered a combined sustainable catch fishing potential of over 4 million metric tonnes of fish. In addition, India’s water and natural resources offer a tenfold growth potential in aquaculture (farm fishing) from 2010 harvest levels of 3.9 million metric tonnes of fish, if India were to adopt fishing knowledge, regulatory reforms, and sustainability policies adopted by China over the last two decades. 150
Water Proof The marine fish harvested in India consist of about 65 commercially important species/groups. Pelagic and midwater species contributed about 52% of the total marine fish in 2004. India is a major supplier of fish in the world. In 2006 the country exported over 600,000 metric tonnes of fish, to some 90 countries, earning over $1.8 billion. Shrimps are one of the major varieties exported. The giant tiger prawn (Penaeus monodon) is the dominant species chosen for aquaculture, followed by the Indian white prawn (Fenneropenaeus indicus). Shrimp production from coastal aquaculture during 2004 stood at approximately 120,000 tonnes. Farmed shrimp accounted for about 60% of shrimp exported from the country. Marine and freshwater catch fishing combined with aquaculture fish farming is a rapidly growing industry in India. In 2008 India was the sixth largest producer of marine and freshwater capture fisheries, and the second largest aquaculture farmed fish producer in the world. Fish as food—both from fish farms and catch fisheries— offers India one of the easiest and fastest way to address malnutrition and food security. Despite rapid growth in total fish production, a fish farmers’ average annual production in India is only 2 tonnes per person, compared to 172 tonnes in Norway, 72 tonnes in Chile, and 6 tonnes per fisherman in China. Higher productivity, knowledge transfer for sustainable fishing, continued growth in fish production with increase in fish exports have the potential for increasing the living standards of Indian fishermen. As of 2010, fish harvest distribution was difficult within India because of poor rural road infrastructure, lack of cold storage and absence of organized retail in most parts of the country. In 2013, with access to Sri Lankan waters closed after the defeat of the Liberation Tigers of Tamil Eelam, Indian fishers quickly overfished their own waters and production plummeted. Fishing and aquaculture in India has a long history. Kautilya’s Arthashastra (321–300 B.C.) and King Someswara’s Manasottara (1127 A.D.) each refer to fish culture. For centuries, India has had a traditional practice of fish culture in small ponds in Eastern India. Significant advances in productivity were made in the state of West Bengal in the early nineteenth century with the controlled breeding of carp in Bundhs (tanks or impoundments where river conditions are simulated). Fish culture received notable attention in Tamil Nadu (formerly the state of Madras) as early as 1911, subsequently, states such as West Bengal, Punjab, Uttar Pradesh, Gujarat, Karnataka and Andhra Pradesh initiated fish culture through the establishment of Fisheries Departments. In 2006, Indian central government initiated a dedicated organization focussed on fisheries,
under its Ministry of Agriculture. Brackishwater farming in India is also an age-old system confined mainly to the Bheries (manmade impoundments in coastal wetlands) of West Bengal and pokkali (salt resistant deepwater paddy) fields along the Kerala coast. With no additional knowledge and technology input, except that of trapping the naturally bred juvenile fish and shrimp seed, these systems have been sustaining production levels of between 500 and 750 kg/ha/year with shrimp contributing 20 to 25 percent of the total Indian production. Fishing in India contributed over 1 percent of India’s annual gross domestic product in 2008. Catch fishing in India employs about 14.5 million people. The country’s rich marine and inland water resources, fisheries and aquaculture offer an attractive and promising sector for employment, livelihood, and food security. Fish products from India are well received by almost half of world’s countries, creating export-driven employment opportunities in India and greater food security for the world. During the past decades the Indian fisheries and aquaculture has witnessed improvements in craft, tackle and farming methods.
Import Between 2000 and 2010, the freshwater prawn farming in India has grown rapidly. The state of Andhra Pradesh dominates the sector with over 86 percent of the total production in India with approximately 60 percent of the total water area dedicated to prawn farming, followed by West Bengal. Mixed farming of freshwater prawn along with carp is also very much accepted as a technologically sound culture practice and a viable option for enhancing farm income. Thirty five freshwater prawn hatcheries, at present producing about 200 million seed per annum, cater for the requirements of the country. India has a federal structure of government. According to India’s constitution, the power of enacting laws is split between India’s central government and the Indian states. There are many laws and regulations that may be relevant to fisheries and aquaculture adopted at state level.
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Rajiv Gandhi Centre for Aquaculture is the Research and Development arm of the Marine Products Export Development Authority (MPEDA), which, inspired by the late Prime Minister Rajiv Gandhi’s vision of making India a technologically advanced nation, founded this Centre of Excellence in Aquaculture and dedicated it to the development of the Indian Aquaculture Industry.
Fishing in India contributed over 1 percent of India’s annual gross domestic product in 2008. Catch fishing in India employs about 14.5 million people. The country’s rich marine and inland water resources, fisheries and aquaculture offer an attractive and promising sector for employment, livelihood, and food security. Fish products from India are well received by almost half of world’s countries, creating export-driven employment opportunities in India and greater food security for the world. During the past decades the Indian fisheries and aquaculture has witnessed improvements in craft, tackle and farming methods. Creation of required harvest and post-harvest infrastructure has been receiving due attention of the central and state governments. All this has been inducing a steady growth. To harvest the economic benefits from fishing, India is adopting exclusive economic zone, stretching 200 nautical miles (370 km) into the Indian Ocean, encompasses more than 2 million square kilometers. In the mid-1980s, only about 33 percent of that area was being exploited. The potential annual catch from the area has been estimated at 4.5 million tons. In addition to this marine zone, India has about 14,000 km² of brackish water available for aquaculture, of which only 600 km² were being farmed in the early 1990s; about 16,000 km² of freshwater lakes, ponds, and swamps; and nearly 64,000 kilometers of rivers and streams. In 1990, there were 1.7 million full-time fishermen, 1.3 million part-time fishermen, and 2.3 million occasional fishermen, many of whom worked as saltmakers, ferrymen, or seamen, or operated boats for hire. In the early 1990s, the fishing fleet consisted of 180,000 traditional craft powered by sails or oars, 26,000 motorized traditional craft, and some 34,000 mechanized boats. India laid the foundation for scientific carp farming in the country between 1970 and 1980, by demonstrating high production levels of 8 to 10 tonnes/hectare/year in an incubation center. The late 1980s saw the dawn of aquaculture in India and transformed fish culture into a more modern enterprise. With the economic liberal-
ization of the early 1990s, fishing industry got a major investment boost. India’s breeding and culture technologies include primarily different species of carp; other species such as catfish, murrels and prawns are recent additions. The culture systems adopted in the country vary greatly depending on the input available in any particular region as well as on the investment capabilities of the farmer. While extensive aquaculture is carried out in comparatively large water bodies with stocking of the fish seed as the only input beyond utilising natural productivity, elements of fertilisation and feeding have been introduced into semi-intensive culture. The different culture systems in Indian practice include: Aquaculture resources in India include 2.36 million hectares of ponds and tanks, 1.07 million hectares of beels, jheels and derelict waters plus in addition 0.12 million kilometers of canals, 3.15 million hectares of reservoirs and 0.72 million hectares of upland lakes that could be utilised for aquaculture purposes. Ponds and tanks are the prime resources for freshwater aquaculture in India. However, less than 10 percent of India’s natural potential is used for aquaculture currently. The FAO of the United Nations estimates that about 1.2 million hectares of potential brackishwater area available in India is suitable for farming, in addition to this, around 8.5 million hectares of salt affected areas are also available, of which about 2.6 million hectares could be exclusively utilised for aquaculture due to the unsuitability of these resources for other agriculture based activities. brackishwater area under cultivation is only just over 13 percent of the potential water area available. India offers opportunities for highly productive farming of shrimp in its brackishwater resources. Carp hatcheries in the public and private sectors have contributed towards the increase in seed production from 6321 million fry in 1985–1986 to over 18500 million fry in 2007shrimp hatcheries with a production capacity of approximately 11.425 billion post larvae per year are meeting the seed water shrimp farming sector.
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Street graffiti in Goa
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Bavanapadu fishing harbour
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Surf..................................................160 Scuba diving....................................164 Sailing..............................................168
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A few miles north of Half Moon Bay, California, and a quarter-mile off of Pillar Point Harbor, Maverick’s qualifies as a natural phenomenon. It is not just a perfect wave, but a perfect 20-foot wave that breaks like a hollow 6-footer, exploding top to bottom with a ferocity that makes brave men shudder.
Surfing Maverick
Quest 6 Back Bone
Written by Ben Marcus
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Surfing Maverick Like a lot of surfers, Half Moon Bay resident Jeff Clark had watched massive waves breaking out on a reef while surfing at nearby Ross' Cove in the '70s. Unlike his peers, Clark decided to surf it, alone, riding the lefts at first because he was a goofyfoot. Once he figured out that the other side of the wave was less hazardous, Clark began riding the rights -- switchfoot. He had Maverick's to himself for 15 years, and by 1990, he was getting lonely. On January 22 of that year, Clark led Santa Cruz surfers Dave Schmidt and Tom Powers into a monster swell at his private domain. They paddled out, got their minds blown and the cat was out of the bag. Surfers began filtering north from Santa Cruz and south from San Francisco to try this freakish big-wave spot. Over the next few seasons, predictions made about the potential for tube rides and the prospect of disaster came to fruition as more and more surfers began challenging Maverick's. As skills and equipment were honed, the performance level rose. In December 1994, Peter Mel faded into a double-up that pitched over the inside bowl, becoming the first surfer to get shacked at Mav's in front of the public eye -- a shot of him standing tall inside the green monster made the cover of Surfingmagazine. The danger also was realized in 1994. During the same stretch of large surf that pitted Mel, 16-year-old Jay Moriarity launched into one of the most spectacular wipeouts in history. The image of an airborne Moriarity about to face annihilation was displayed on the cover of Surfer magazine. Four days after Moriarity's wipeout, Hawaiian big-wave legends Mark Foo, Ken Bradshaw and Brock Little flew over from Oahu to test Maverick's on a perfect 18- to 20-foot day. Things were going smoothly until Foo caught an edge on a midsize wave and fell into what looked like a standard wipeout. No one noticed that he didn't come up. A few hours later, some surfers returning to the harbor spotted a piece of Foo's board floating outside. They found his lifeless body floating just under the surface. Foo and Maverick's made international headlines, and big-wave surfing took an unwelcome step into the international spotlight. In the years after Foo's death, the world's best big-wave surfers approached Maverick's with caution and respect. But by the late '90s, the limits were being stretched again. During the El Nino winter of 1997-'98, K2, a California clothing company, offered a $50,000 bounty for the surfer who paddled into and made the drop on the largest wave of the winter. Mel led the assault on Maverick's as people threw themselves over the ledge in pursuit of the ransom. On January 30, a day that proved beyond the capabilities of paddle surfing, Perry Miller and Doug Hansen of Santa Cruz took to Maverick's on a Wave Runner. Miller towed into two giant waves, which towered eight to 10 times over his head, and Maverick's had entered the unridden realm. The following winter, Mel, Ken Collins, Darryl "Flea" Virostko and a few others began experimenting with Wave Runners and towropes. That same winter, Quiksilver ran its inaugural Maverick's big-wave invitational. On February 17, 24 of the world's best big-wave surfers competed for a $15,000 first prize -- captured by Virostko - who would win the event two more times, even beating Kelly Slater in 2000. Today, the list of champs is a 'who's who' of local and international giant killers, including Anthony Tashnick, San Clemente's Greg Long and South
Africa's Grant "Twiggy" Baker. In 2008, six close big-wave compadres agreed to split prizemoney at the start of the final. As local Grant Washburn told NPR at the time, "I'm obviously not probably the likely guy to win [but] It was such a beautiful day . . . [and] we had it all to ourselves. [Big wave surfing's] not about the money. And they proved it because they couldn't have surfed any harder if it was a million dollars." Not so friendly was the debate between tow-in and paddle surfers, which raged into the early 2000s as people objected to the noise and stench of Jet Skis in a federal marine reserve. But surfers began to see the potential of tow surfing at Maverick's and a protocol emerged: resulting in a three-month PWC grace period in winter, where tow surfers take over when paddling becomes impossible. Meanwhile, surrounding spots remain PWCfree, most notably at "Ghost Trees", a nearby bigwave venue that gained recognition in the latter part of the decade. Ironically, one of the proPWC camp's predictions that safety would suffer came true in 2008 when local Peter Davi died surfing the former secret spot. And when crystal meth was found in Davi's system, it helped fuel an even greater controversy as Virostko and Mel later revealed too have battled meth addiction for part of the 2000s, including smoking before some now famous Mav's sessions. The decade would finish with one final shock when Jeff Clark stepped down as the Maverick's director in 2009 under curious circumstances. But one the reputation of Mavericks' crew in huge surf isn't going anywhere, with Mel, Flea and Washburn earning invites to events from Waimea to South Africa, and the bulk of the screen time in the film Riding Giants. Furthermore, one could argue the popularization of Maverick's opened the doors of perception that big-wave riding could extend past the Hawaiian islands and into different countries and colder waters, setting the stage for the venues like Dungeons, Shipstern's Bluff and Nelscott Reef. In two decades, Maverick's has become an institution. It is one of the most famous waves in the world, creating careers, opportunities and a scene every time it breaks. When it's booming, the parking lot and path that Jeff Clark once had to himself is clogged with dozens of surfers, hundreds of spectators and an ever-present press corps, photographing, filming and videoing the show from the cliffs, boats, Jet Skis and helicopters. At least a half-dozen photographers and writers make a regular living from recording Maverick's, and there is one known web site dedicated the place. It has taken the brunt of human ambition, ego and conflict over the past 10 years, but has brushed all of it aside. Clark's 1991 prediction still stands and always will: "I've seen a lot of people paddle out there, but only a few really ride it. I don't care if word gets out. Maverick's will always take care of itself."
NET MAG × ISSUE #0 × SUMMER 2014 × ‘AWEOWEO
No matter how impressive the above-water attractions are, the real jewelin the Egyptian crown has to be the simply staggering diving in the Red Sea.
Scuba diving Egypt
Quest 6 Back Bone
Written by T. C. Marinho
Scuba diving Egypt Egypt, one of the world’s oldest civilizations, bears testament to some of mankind’s earliest triumphs. The pyramids of Cairo are one of the Seven Wonders of the Worldand the nearby Museum of Egyptian Antiquities houses the legendary treasures of Tutankhamen. At Luxor, in the Valley of the Kings, wall paintings in the tombs of the ancients have amazed viewers for generations. But Egypt is much more than ancient monuments and pyramids. It’s a cruise down the Nile, a luxury hotel and hot nightlife, it’s a vast invigorating desert and, especially for divers, it’s theRed Sea. Just beyond where the cool, azure waters lap the desert shores lie beautiful reefs, millions of fish, fantastic visibility, sheltered reefs, towers, pinnacles, walls, coral gardens and wrecks. The all make up a siren call to scuba divers and mark the Red Sea as a world-class scuba diving destination. The coastal area runs from the Israeli border at Taba around the Sinai Peninsula through Sharm el Sheik to the Suez and south along Egypt’s eastern coast to the border with Sudan. Each area tempts divers in its own special way and the stretch from El Gouna through Hurghada and Safaga combines the Red Sea’s delights with proximity to Luxor and Cairo. No matter how impressive the above-water attractions are, the real jewelin the Egyptian crown has to be the simply staggering diving in the Red Sea. Pharaoh’s (or Farun) Island Situated in the northern reaches of the Gulf of Aqaba, is one of Taba’s most renowned dive sites. It’s noted for fascinating endemic marine life: frogfish (or toad fish or angler fish), which may be of the oddest and ugliest (in a fascinating way) fish. Once a Phoenician port, this small island lies a mere 250 metres/275 yards off shore and a restored castle overlooks the relatively uncrowded dive sites. Small pinnacles and walls dropping to 25 metres/80 feet feature healthy coral, schools of bream and batfish and the ubiquitous moray eels. It’s a great place to bring non-diving friends and family, with plenty of topside exploration and snorkeling available. Dahab Dahab on the southeast coast of the Sinai Peninsula, is synonymous with shore diving and it shows that some of Egypt’s best dives don’t require long boat trips or early starts. A world-class dive site proves the point: Canyon is an advanced dive starting at about 18 metres/60 feet and dropping to more than 50 metres/165 feet. At some points, it features overhead environments and it always demands respect and appropriate training. For those with the appropriate experience and skill, the rewards are steep walls and stunning seascapes within an easy swim from shore. At the other end of the scale are myriad dive sites suitable for beginners. Infact, almost anywhere you can find access around Dahab, you’ll also find a classic fringing coral reef worth exploring. Red Sea Scuba DiverGiftun Island This marine reserve with a modest entry fee has a host of dive sites characterized by steep drop offs, fabulous coral reefs and the possibility of encounters with barracuda, tuna and even bigger pelagic species. That’s if you can tear your eyes away from the gorgonians and marine life that populate the caves and ledges punctuating walls that drop past recreational dive depths. The fre-
quently strong currents often dictate drift dives and, given the many dive site options, it’s usually possible to have a relatively uncrowded dive. The protection coming with marine reserve status really pays off here with abundant marine life and great diving. Ras Mohamed National Park The first Egyptian national park is still one of the best. It is about 12miles/20 kilometres south of Sharm el Sheik at the southern tip of theSinai Peninsula where the Gulf of Aqaba meets the Gulf of Suez. Due to the mixing of these waters, the area hosts healthy coral reefs and myriad reef and pelagic fish species. Some say this is one of the richest, most diverse marine environments in the world. This protected (and patrolled) area covers some 480square kilometres/185 square miles and you can assess it by day trip or liveaboard dive boat. At two of the featured dive sites, Shark and Yolanda reefs, currents are often significant while makes drift dives common Close to Safaga in Soma Bay, this is a great dive for newly certified or less experienced divers but it’s also fun for seasoned professionals. Not far off the beach, seven coral pillars nearly rise to the surface from about 14metres/45 feet of depth. Many reef fish, including Napoleon, or Humphead, wrasse, puffer fish and lionfish, call the area home. It’s also a well-known night diving spot. Straits of Tiran Situated at the mouth of the Gulf of Aqaba, the straits form a natural constriction and consequently the diving is spectacular. Divers privileged to have visited the reefs here (Jackson, Gordon and Woodhouse among many others) often speak of them only in respectful whispers. Washed by strong currents, these reefs are favorite haunts for marauding jacks, barracuda and sharks that prowl the reef edges on the lookout for their unwary, or injured, smaller cousins. Enormous moray eels slip through the coral heads and crevices, which teem with anthias and myriad other reef dwellers.
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Alaska is one of the most popular cruise destinations in the world, and is very high on most cruise lovers’ list. Some of the most spectacular parts of Alaska can best be seen from the sea.
Sailing Alaska
Quest 6 Back Bone
Translated by M. K. Nahuina
Sailing Alaska
Alaska cruises normally sell for a higher price than the Caribbean. The Alaska cruise season only runs from May through September, and demand is high. In addition, getting to the ship is often more costly than flying to Florida or other cruise embarkation ports. Some cruise ships are sailing from California ports, which might be a cheaper air fare, but a longer cruise. Summer is the big vacation season in the northwest, and many non-cruisers also choose to head to this beautiful part of the world. The shorter season and high demand add up to a more expensive cruise. Even though Alaska cruises can be more expensive, the joy of seeing this exciting American wilderness is well worth the extra dollars. Many of the large and mid-sized cruise ships sailing to Alaska include cabins with private verandas. Cruisers go to Alaska to see the magnificent mountains, beautiful bays, and wonderful wildlife (like bears, whales, and sea lions) and to participate in some unforgettable shore excursions. In addition, visitors to Alaska get to experience fascinating small towns like Juneau, Ketchikan, and Skagway. How better to see all of this than from your own private balcony? In addition to the verandas, ships cruising Alaska often include huge observation lounges and heated indoor/ outdoor pools. You don't have to "rough it" to see all that Alaska has to offer!
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There are two great ways to cruise Alaska--on a large or mid-sized cruise ship of 500 to 3000 passengers or on a small ship of a dozen to less than 500 passengers. Both types of cruises have pros and cons. The larger ships have all the extra amenities you could ever wish for, but an Alaska cruise on a small ship provides a more personal look at Alaska and often a better chance to see wildlife from the ship. Either way, Alaska cruise lines offer something for everyone. Many of the cruise lines offer "cruisetours", which include both a cruise and a land tour of either parts of the interior of Alaska or western Canada. Those with more time should inquire about these cruisetours, since they often represent a good add-on to your Alaska cruise. Sound Sailing operates in the beautiful waters of Southeast Alaska, departing out of our homeport of Sitka as well as Petersburg and Juneau. These cities are served by daily Alaska Airlines jet service. Most of our sailing Alaska area is the 20 million acres of the Tongass National Forest and Glacier Bay National Park. There is very little development in this pristine, remote area and we often have anchorages all to ourselves.The waters of the Inside Passage are almost completely protected from the swell of the outer coast. It’s a spectacular and unforgettable labyrinth of bays, fjords, beaches, mountains and trees. We love to sail Alaska. And we catch the wind whenever we can. People with all levels of sailing experience have voyaged on the BOB. Feel free to help sail if you’d like, or just sit back and enjoy the scenery. Our schedule is custom designed to maximize your Alaskan interests. There are many itineraries along each route and a choice of several anchorages along each itinerary. You could sail in Southeast Alaska for many years without staying in the same spot twice (although many are so beautiful it is tempting to stay in the same spot for your entire trip!). Experienced sailors may enjoy daysails in Resurrection Bay, or venture beyond into sailing adventures throughout the Kenai Fjords National Park. Sailing, Inc. encourages new sailors to experience the idyllic conditions of Resurrection Bay sailing as they hone their skills and dream of rounding Cape Aialik. The Land of the Midnight sun provides opportunities to sail long days and view whales, glaciers, sea lions, snow-crested mountains, puffins and dolphins. Protected anchorages in many beautiful coves offer on shore hiking, exploring on kayak or fishing for dinner on the grill!
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Never Stop
exploring
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12 €
NET MAGAZINE × ISSUE #0 × SUMMER 2014 × ‘AWEOWEO