Blue Wings East to West issue Summer 2014 by Finnair_BlueWings

APPS FOR HEALTHY TRAVEL

FINNISH STARTUPS HEAD EAST

East to West issue

NATURE ESCAPES NEAR HELSINKI

BANGKOK’S ECO BEAT

Trends, destinations and insights for travellers • Summer 2014

Your l na perso y cop

THE MOST ASIAN CITY OUTSIDE ASIA

SAVOUR DENMARK’S

FOODIE ISLAND HELSINKI’S NEW DANCE SCENE

Vietnam

on wheels

WAT C H E S & J E W E L L E RY Oy Osk. Lindroos Ab Helsinki Airport Schengen, Gate 27, +358-9-354 0500 Non-Schengen, Gate 33, +358-9-354 0510 www.lindroos.fi | airport@lindroos.fi

EDITORIAL

BY ARJA SUOMINEN SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, COMMUNICATIONS AND CORPORATE RESPONSIBILTY

PRODUCER Amanda Soila

KATJA PANTZAR

WWW.FINNAIR.COM

ART DIRECTOR Sirpa Ärmänen SUB-EDITOR Anna-Maria Wasenius GRAPHIC DESIGNERS Pia Hytönen, Veera Pienimaa CONTENT MANAGER Kati Heikinheimo REPROGRAPHICS Anne Lindfors, Tuukka Palmio ENGLISH TRANSLATION Wif Stenger SUBMISSIONS bluewings@sanoma.com EDITORIAL OFFICES Lapinmäentie 1, 00350 Helsinki, Finland, Postal address P.O.Box 100, 00040 Sanoma, Finland, tel. +358 9 1201, fax +358 9 120 5988, e-mail firstname.lastname@sanoma.com ADVERTISING SALES Media Assistant Sirkka Pulkkinen tel. +358 9 120 5921 PUBLISHER Sanoma Media Finland Oy Custom Publishing PRINTED BY Hansaprint, Turku, Finland 2014 PAPER UPM Valor 61g, Cover paper Lumi Art 200g CIRCULATION 150,000 ISSN-0358-7703

The land of the

midnight sun

hen I tell people I come from Finland, many ask: “Is the winter dark and cold?” While it’s true that in the most northernmost parts of the country such as Lapland the sun doesn’t rise for almost two months in the depths of winter, there is a beautiful, dim blue light that is magical during December and January.

And we have the spectacular natural phenomenon of the Northern Lights – colourful lights dancing across the sky – which more than compensate for the lack of mid-winter sun. Then, at the height of summer, the light is never-ending here: because of our north-

ern latitude, the sun doesn’t set and shines almost non-stop around the clock from late May until late July. During the winters Finns work hard and take life seriously. But when the first warm days of spring arrive we rush outdoors, sit in cafés, smile at everyone, spend weekends at the EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Arja Suominen arja.suominen@finnair.com FINNAIR HEAD OFFICE Tietotie 11 A, Helsinki-Vantaa Airport, 1053 Finnair, Finland, tel. +358 9 81881, Postal address: P. O. Box 15, 01053 Finnair, Finland CUSTOMER FEEDBACK www.finnair.com > Information and services > After the flight or by mail: Customer Relations, SL/08, FI-01053 FINNAIR. www.finnair.com www.finnair.fi www.finnairgroup.com

cottage and participate in all kinds of cultural events organised throughout the country. I love the distinct Finnish seasons and never tire of the changing light and nature. I especially adore Finnish summers: lush green forests, thousands of fresh water lakes, white clouds, gentle summer winds and sweet strawberries. If you haven’t visited Finland before, why not spend your next holiday here? Arja Suominen PS Helsinki’s Finnair Sky Wheel opens in June with 30 air-conditioned blue and white gondolas. We’re also one of the partners for the world-renowned Savonlinna Opera Festival, which takes place every July at the medieval Olavinlinna Castle.

SUMMER 2014 18

FINLAND’S HOT SUMMER SCHEDULE

FINNISH STARTUPS EYE ASIA

MOTORBIKE TREKKING IN VIETNAM

TOP 5: PAST MEETS PRESENT IN EASTERN EUROPE

VANCOUVER’S CHINESE CONNECTION

GREAT GREEN ESCAPES

HELSINKI’S BUSTLING DANCE SCENE

BANGKOK WITH AN ECO BEAT

A DANISH CULINARY ISLAND

See our picks of the best events from sports to culture

Where future business lies

Off-roading in the remote Hà Giang region

Explore five cities which combine heritage with a modern twist

Discover the most Asian city outside Asia

National parks near Helsinki

Find your style and crowd with our dance guide

Tour the quieter side of the Thai capital

Is Bornholm the next gourmet hot-spot?

40 ON THE COVER MANH HÙNG, A VIETNAMESE MOTORBIKE GUIDE PHOTO BY VILLE PALONEN

TRAVEL COLUMNS 8

NEWS

ART

TECH

FASHION

HELSINKI

Marimekko-Seoul surprise

International previews

Health apps

Collective design stores

New island attraction

4 BLUE WINGS

SUMMER 2014

on the go

55 IN THIS ISSUE

REGULARS

Zambia, p. 6 Finland, p. 14, 16, 18, 48, 55 Vietnam, p. 26 Ljubljana, p.38 Krakow, p. 38 Budapest, p. 38 Bucharest, p. 38 Dubrovnik, p. 38 Vancouver, p. 40 Bangkok, p. 63 Denmark, p. 72

TRAVEL MOMENT

SIXTEN KORKMAN

ALEXANDER STUBB

THIS MONTH AROUND THE WORLD

FINLAND IN FIGURES

FLYING FINNAIR

38 New border crossings

Before and during the flight

In-flight entertainment

Helsinki Airport

Maps and destinations

Corporate responsibility

Fleet

Frequent flyer benefits

95 SUMMER 2014

BLUE WINGS

6 BLUE WINGS

SUMMER 2014

TRAVEL MOMENT BY VILLE PALONEN

EXTREME PLAYGROUND VICTORIA FALLS, located in the Zambesi River on the border of Zambia and Zimbabwe, is the largest waterfall in the world. Thousands of tourists come to see Mosioa-Tunya, or “The smoke that thunders,” but the area has a lot more to offer than just breathtaking scenery: Victoria Falls is a world class playground for extreme enthusiasts. The most hair-raising experience is a bungee jump from a historical railway

bridge. Every 15 minutes or so, you can see another daredevil plunging towards the roaring river from the 111-metre bridge, a thick rubber rope stopping the free fall. In New Year’s Eve 2011 an Australian traveller got more than she bargained for: the rope snapped and the girl fell into the river. Miraculously the shocked tourist survived with minor injuries, but the accident left any aspiring bungee jumper wondering: “Could that happen to me, too?” SUMMER 2014

BLUE WINGS

TRAVEL NEWS

COMPILED AND WRITTEN BY KATJA PANTZAR

THAT’S

ENTERTAINMENT!

innair’s upgraded and enhanced inflight entertainment system goes live this August with a fresh new look, content and features. “We’ve responded to passenger feedback and improved the inflight entertainment system’s usability and speed with the all the newest entertainment content in several languages including Finnish, English, Japanese, Korean and Chinese,” says Jouni Oksanen, Vice President, eCommerce. “As Finland is a forerunner in mobile software development, we wanted to showcase this know-how by building a new approach together with the top digital industry experts,” says Oksanen. In addition to hundreds of movies, TV shows and documentaries, a new feature of the Panasonic X Series entertainment system for Finnair is a vast eReading library with books, comics and newspapers ranging from Finnish daily Helsingin Sanomat to magazines such as Us Weekly and National Geographic. WWW.FINNAIR.COM

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MARIMEKKO ♥ SEOUL

Marking the 50th anniversary of Marimekko’s popular Unikko (“Poppy”) print, Finnair delighted passengers on the Seoul-HelsinkiSeoul route in mid-May with a surprise Unikko-themed flight. The iconic print decorated the cabin and crew uniforms - traditional hanbok Korean dress - and naturally there were Marimekko takeaway goodies for passengers such as their useful purses.

HELSINKI AIRPORT UPDATES

FINNAIR’S NEW PREMIUM Lounge opens this summer beside the awardwinning Finnair Lounge near Gate 36 in the non-Schengen terminal. Designed by Helsinki’s dSign Vertti Kivi & Co, the Premium Lounge is for Platinum and Gold Finnair Plus members and other oneworld top-tier customers. Showcasing Nordic design in harmony with Finnish nature, the lounge serves up highquality complimentary meals and drinks, including wines and spirits served in Iittala Ultima Thule glasses – first designed for Finnair in 1968 by Tapio Wirkkala. THE RETAIL EXPERIENCE grows with two new Lindroos watch and jewellery shops (near Gate 27 and Gate Area 32–40) stocking quality Swiss watches by brands such as Tissot, Tudor, TagHeuer, Jaeger-LeCoultre and Chopard. A new Hugo Boss luxury menswear shop opens near Gate 27. AIRPORT HOTEL GLO, located in Terminal 2, has opened 36 new additional hotel rooms and offers day rooms between 9 am and 6 pm for those who want to have a good rest in between connections. GLOHOTELS.FI

THE EXOTIC FAR NORTH FINNAIR LOUNGES in Helsinki Airport Terminal T2 above Gates 23–26 (Schengen terminal) will be closed from July 1 owing to renovations. A brandnew, larger Finnair lounge opens in the same space this fall.

FOR THOSE PLANNING their winter travels to see the Northern Lights, Finnair’s route to Tromsø Norway starts up again three times weekly from January 2 to March 27, 2015. Finnair also operates daily flights year around to several destinations in Finnish Lapland, an active nature getaway 365 days of the year.

TO BREAK THE RULES, YOU MUST FIRST MASTER THEM. IN 1993, AUDEMARS PIGUET CHANGED THE WORLD OF THE SPORTS WATCH FOREVER. THE POWERFUL ARCHITECTURE OF THE ROYAL OAK OFFSHORE BECAME THE ULTIMATE STATEMENT IN PERFORMANCE HAUTE HOROLOGY. THE 2014 ROYAL OAK OFFSHORE COLLECTION MOVES THE GAME ON ONCE MORE; THE HAND-ENGRAVED 22 CARAT GOLD OSCILLATING MASS NOW VISIBLE THROUGH THE SAPPHIRE CASEBACK, A WINDOW ONTO 139 YEARS OF HOROLOGICAL MASTERY.

ROYAL OAK OFFSHORE IN PINK GOLD. CHRONOGRAPH.

TRAVEL ART

COMPILED AND WRITTEN BY SIMON FRY

STAATLICHE MUSEEN ZU BERLIN/ MAXIMILIAN MEISSE

THE TERM BIENNIAL stems from the Venice Biennale (“biennale” is Italian for biennial), which was first held in 1895, and has since been used within the art world to describe largescale international contemporary art events, that take place every two years. Accordingly, Triennial refers to events arranged every three years and Quadrennial to ones taking place every fourth year.

The museum complex in Dahlem, Berlin, planned as long ago as 1914, will host some of the city’s Biennial events.

ALL THE WORLD’S A GALLERY FOR ART LOVERS, THIS SUMMER AND AUTUMN OFFER GOOD EXCUSES TO TALLY SOME SERIOUS AIRLINE MILES.

n Germany, Düsseldorf ’s art aficionados have been anticipating their city’s third quadrennial, which opened in April and runs until August 10. Thirteen institutions are conveying the festival’s guiding theme of “Beyond Tomorrow,” looking at how artists in different eras have envisioned the future. At Dusseldorf ’s Film Museum, the Visions and Nightmares exhibition explores cinematic depictions of the future. “Art has the power to anticipate the future, to draft utopias, to act as a motor of history,” says Wolfgang Ullrich, professor at the University of Arts and Design Karlsruhe, who co-developed the festival’s theme.

CITY AND NATURE

Sapporo in Japan, meanwhile, will stage its inaugural International Art Festival, running from July 19 to September 28. Guest director Ryuichi Sakamoto stewards 72 days of exploring the coexistence of “City and Nature,” a theme borne partly out of 10 BLUE WINGS

SUMMER 2014

Japan’s earthquake-tsunami disaster of March 2011. Sapporo became UNESCO’s first City of Media Arts in Asia in November 2013. During the festival it will reassess history, culture, natural characteristics, urban functions, local economy/industry and lifestyles in the context of art. The event is scheduled to be triennial.

EUROPEAN BIENNIALS A highlight of Liverpool’s biennial (July 5 – October 26), entitled “A Needle Walks into a Haystack”, will be composer Michael Nyman’s new work – “Symphony No 11: Hillsborough Memorial” at Liverpool Cathedral.

EYES ON FUTURE

BIENNIAL.COM

In yet another corner of the world, Montreal’s eighth biennial (October 21 to January 4) will enhance its reputation as Canada’s leading international contemporary art event. New and recent works by roughly 50 artists living and working in 17 countries will be themed around “Looking Forward” in partnership and collaboration with museums and arts and educational institutions. A vastly expanded exhibitions, talks, screenings, concerts, performances and publications programme crystallises Biennale de Montréal’s renewed energy, rigour and ambition. The events examine recent developments in contemporary art in relation to speculation, futurity and the history of future projection.

Berlin’s 8th contemporary art biennial (until August 3) aims to balance the authoritative and empirical approaches to history and historical becoming via a range of new works by numerous local and international artists. The works are presented in three landmark venues in West Berlin and Berlin-Mitte.

QUADRIENNALE-DUESSELDORF.DE SAPPORO-INTERNATIONALARTFESTIVAL.JP BNLMTL.ORG

BERLINBIENNALE.DE

The fourth Moscow International Biennial for Young Art has “A Time for Dreams” as its theme. Rephrasing Martin Luther King’s iconic “I have a dream” speech, the festival emphasises the chronic instability of our time and the acute need for the younger generation to have dreams, hopes and opportunities. YOUNGART.RU

MOVES ACTIVITY DIARY TRAVEL TECH

COMPILED AND WRITTEN BY MARIA NOKKONEN

Nelli Lähteenmäki is one of the pioneers in the Finnish health app sector.

MAIJA TAMMI

MUST-HAVE HEALTH APPS ON THE GO

NELLI LÄHTEENMÄKI, CEO AND COFOUNDER OF HEALTH PUZZLE – A FINNISH MOBILE HEALTH SERVICE STARTUP – RECOMMENDS THESE FIVE MOBILE APPS FOR THE HEALTH-SAVVY TRAVELLER.

HEADSPACE MEDITATION Headspace wants to demystify meditation, and it does just that by offering short, guided meditation sessions suitable for beginners. After a free ten-day starter programme you can purchase premium content – and chances are you will be more than happy to get a subscription after getting used to that calm and clear feeling. The app also hosts nifty animations on how the mind works. With the possibility to download sessions for offline use, Headspace is a perfect companion for a long flight. Available for iOS and Android. GETSOMEHEADSPACE.COM

SLEEP CYCLE ALARM CLOCK Travellers can certainly use a good night’s sleep, and the extremely popular Sleep Cycle promises to make your sleep even better. The app uses your iPhone’s movement sensor to analyse and graph your sleeping patterns. After getting in bed with your phone, this intelligent yet simple app tracks your sleep quality and helps you wake up at the lightest sleep phase for a smooth start. Unfortunately, it doesn’t prepare you a fresh cup of coffee in the morning. Available for iOS. SLEEPCYCLE.COM

Every step you take, Moves is tracking you. This general purpose tracker, developed in Finland and recently acquired by Facebook, automatically recognises when you walk, run or cycle. It also uses GPS data to track your location and routes throughout the day, not forgetting calories burned for each activity. Because it creates a virtual map of your day, it acts as your “backup memory” about what you have been up to. Available for iOS and Android. MOVES-APP.COM

STRAVA CYCLING AND RUNNING For runners or cyclists wanting specific insights on their rides and strides, Strava is a useful tool offering detailed information on your sports sessions. It helps you connect with pals and cheer on your running and cycling buddies around the world. Available for iOS and Android. STRAVA.COM

7 MINUTE WORKOUT After downloading 7 Minute Workout, there are no more excuses to skip a workout while travelling. This fitness app developed by Johnson&Johnson includes a number of simple, time-efficient workouts ranging from 7 to 30 minutes. The Smart Workout mode even gauges your fitness and motivation level and recommends suitable programmes. No equipment is needed – these workouts are completed using your own body weight. Available for iOS and Android. 7MINUTEWORKOUT.JNJ.COM

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TRAVEL FASHION

TEXT BY AMANDA SOILA

DESIGNERLY TEAM SPIRIT

inland has produced its fair share of young designers who have shaken up the fashion world with their fresh and distinctive work. Helsinki alone is home to dozens of unique stores – to equal any European capital. However, rather than go it alone several Finnish designers have teamed up, to bring their one-of-a-kind items under the same roof. One of the pioneers of collective stores for design clothing is Liike – which has been stocking local break-out labels since 2000, catering to the growing interest in design, and good quality clothing. “By clubbing together we have been able to ensure that the collections have some less commercial, slightly unusual and more interesting pieces,” says Johanna Vainio, one of the founding members of Liike and other half of design team vainio. seitsonen. Apart from exquisite style, Liike’s customers also tend to be interested in the

origins of their clothing: the store’s brands are produced either domestically, or in neighbouring countries, and many opt for an organic approach. Production values are also high on the agenda for MadeBy Helsinki – one of the newest additions to Helsinki’s collective design stores, which was founded in 2013 to be a modern marketplace for crafts, design and art. “There is a growing interest in domestically produced products among our customers,” says Tytti Lindström, jewellry designer and spokesperson at MadeBy. MadeBy’s distinctive and fun clothing, accessories and decor items are often made of ecological or recycled materials, and most of their production is domestic. MEET THE DESIGNERS

MadeBy is run as a co-op of 13 entrepreneurs from ceramic to textile designers who share the bureaucratic juggling, as

well as the benefits, of shared space in a prominent location in the Tori Quarters – Helsinki’s “new” Old Town. The collective shares work shifts, and each of the designers also doubles as a salesperson in the shop. The same goes for Liike. “We want to bring designers closer to the customers, and it’s also quite fun for the customer to meet the creators of items,” says Vainio. This new customer-designer relationship is not the only change this teamwork has brought about. “We try to share things with other designers,” Vainio says. ”There’s no point in not sharing useful information, as we are all in the same boat trying to contribute to Finnish design culture.” This, she believes, is a new trend in entrepreneurship.

Men’s clothing label Frenn is a fresh addition to Liike’s selection.

LIIKE Fredrikinkatu 24, Helsinki

TUUNI DESIGN

Dress by vainio.seitsonen.

LIIKE-SHOP.COM

MADEBYHELSINKI Katariinankatu 4, Helsinki MADEBY.FI

LIMBO Annankatu 13, Helsinki

Tuija Lommi’s vintage accessories, stocked at MadeBy.

LIMBO.FI

14 BLUE WINGS

OVVN.NET

SUMMER 2014

PHOTO: EVA PERSSON

ELINA SIMONEN

OVVN Iso Roobertinkatu 17–19, Helsinki

The Finest Clothing for Men in Finland

TRAVEL HELSINKI

TEXT AND PHOTOS BY AMANDA SOILA

REINVENTING

A MILITARY ISLAND

HELSINKI HIGHLIGHTS THIS SUMMER SOME OF FINLAND’S best restaurants are once more teaming up for a weekend of exquisite culinary experiences in Helsinki’s Kansalaistori park. This year’s Taste of Helsinki line-up includes some 11 restaurants, from Michelin-starred Ask to Tamperebased newcomer Bertha, with each bringing a three-course menu from which visitors can combine portions according to their own taste. Prices of dishes range between 5–6 euros. JUNE 12–15

Ville Wäänänen and his colleagues have turned the military island into a new maritime meeting place.

eading out from Helsinki harbour ble to the anti-shipping mines still scattered you pass a small island dotted with a throughout the Baltic Sea. First catering to few weather-beaten cottages, which military vessels and later merchant ships for years has been intriguing people on the and ice-breakers, Lonna did its share in the ferries and ships which pass by daily. battle against sea mines right up until the This maritime mystery is now unveiled, 1960s, when the minesweeping process was as the former military island is being made complete. open to the public. NEW DIRECTIONS “We wanted to transform Lonna into This summer a new chapter opens for a new marine meeting place for Helsinki Lonna, as the youthful team of Wäänänen residents and visitors,” says Ville and his colleagues set out to make Wäänänen of Fregatti Oy, one the island a new coastal district of Lonna’s new tenants. THE JT-LINE – boosting the lively mariThe 150-metre long FERRIES operate the time spirit of Helsinki. island is located only 1,5 kilometre route between the Currently Lonna has 1.5 kilometres from Market Square and Lonna at hourly a working restaurant, the Market Square intervals. With the 7€ ticket you can where the ingredients are and can be reached by also visit the neighbouring Suomensourced from small prowater bus or private linna Fortress Island. ducers, and the menu varboat in ten minutes. ies according to the season. LONNA.FI GUNPOWDER AND SEA This year the island will MINES also get a shop, exhibition space Lonna’s colourful history is still and a marina, but the project still tangible around the island. The brick warefaces two more years of development, which houses, currently being converted into event will culminate in the building of a public spaces, used to house gunpowder and then sauna on the southernmost tip of the island. later naval mines after the island’s ownership This summer the island will see earlywas transferred from the city to the military evening clubs with DJs, sailing courses and in 1817. fishing days for children. After the Second World War, Lonna “Lonna has never been a very ordinary was transformed into a demagnetising staisland, and we want to keep it that way,” says tion, where ships were made less susceptiWäänänen.

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TASTEOFHELSINKI.FI

HELSINKI’S NEW Music Centre brings together the music of the renowned composer Jean Sibelius and famous graphic works by Erik Bruun in a series of noon concerts that run daily from June to August. The admission of this 45-minute show, named Sibelius Finland Experience, also includes a complimentary CD and refreshments. JUNE 17 – AUGUST 8

MUSIIKKITALO.FI

AS THE WARM August nights approach, Helsinki prepares to welcome the largest festival in the country. Held every year for the two last weeks of August, the Helsinki Festival thrills the capital with range of events from world music to drama, contemporary dance and children’s events. As part of the festival, Art Goes Kapakka events bring interesting artists to restaurants, pubs and cafés between August 14–23, while the Night of Arts turns the streets of Helsinki into a carnival on August 21. AUGUST 15–31

HELSINGINJUHLAVIIKOT.FI

OSLO TEEMA

TEXAS

Our mission is to make the world a more comfortable place by producing long-lasting furniture in an ecologically sound way. Our both collections, Pohjanmaan and Luonto, are handcrafted with respect for Finnish carpentry traditions and the multiplicity of nature. Please, sit down and sense what quality really means.

www.pohjanmaan.com

JUSSI HELLSTEN

FEEL THE FINNISH

SUMMER BEAT COMPILED AND WRITTEN BY MIRVA LEMPIÄINEN

FINLAND IS A COUNTRY THAT TRULY COMES ALIVE IN THE SUMMER, WITH HUNDREDS OF EVENTS TAKING PLACE BETWEEN JUNE AND AUGUST. HERE ARE OUR TOP SELECTIONS FOR THE UPCOMING SUNNY MONTHS.

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FOR MUSIC FANS FOLK MUSIC RHYTHMS

ISLAND JAZZ

GOOD FLOW

The Kihaus Folk Festival in Northern Karelia brings back the rhythms of yesteryear with its focus on Finno-Ugric blues and folk music. One of this year’s top performers is heavy metal star Timo Rautiainen, who shows his softer side with his folk band. The festival offers a great opportunity to learn about Nordic dance and accordion traditions, known as “pelimanni music.”

The quiant islands of the Turku archipelago are buzzing with action during the Korpo Sea Jazz. The intimate seaside festival features about 20 concerts held on the various islands of the Baltic Sea. Classical music fans should head to the archipelago a few days earlier to attend the Sibelius & Strauss weekend, part of the annual concert series Sibelius Korppoossa XII (July 18–20).

Finland’s trendiest music and visual arts event, the Flow Festival, was founded 10 years ago. Focusing on indie rock, world music and electro beats, the extravaganza is organised in Helsinki’s industrial area of Suvilahti, home to artist studios and creative hubs. This year’s line-up includes OutKast (USA), The National (UK) and Bonobo (UK). Some 60,000 people attended Flow last year.

JULY 4–5 KIHAUS.FI

JULY 22–26 KORPOJAZZ.FI

AUGUST 8–10 FLOWFESTIVAL.COM

OPERA IN THE CASTLE Works of Mozart, Puccini and the like fill the ancient halls of the medieval St. Olaf’s Castle during the annual Savonlinna Opera Festival. The month-long cultural phenomenon brings 60,000 visitors to the roughly 500-year-old castle. Inaugurated in 1912, the festival has been a staple of the Finnish summer since 1967. This season’s new production is “Kullervo” by Aulis Sallinen.

SAVONLINNA OPERA FESTIVAL

JULY 4 – AUGUST 2 OPERAFESTIVAL.FI

MIDNIGHT MOVIES There’s little need to sleep during the Midnight Sun Film Festival in Sodankylä: the sun never sets and the 80 feature flicks are playing 24 hours a day. This unique tribute to old and new cinema was founded in 1986 by the Kaurismäki director brothers. The laid-back “Sodankylä spirit” attracts a mix of international film directors, movie buffs, new talents and locals. JUNE 11–15 WWW.MSFILMFESTIVAL.FI

SANTERI HAPPONEN

FOR CULTURE ENTHUSIASTS

POETRY TIME The 10th annual Annikki International Poetry Festival invites wordsmiths to a wooden residential block in Tampere for one of Finland’s main poetry events. This year’s theme is Playtime. International artists include Ron Whitehead (USA) and Hasso Krull (EST). The main festival day of June 7 is preceded by Annikki OFF, a three-day spinoff event featuring cross-cultural poetry, a debut poets’ panel, a song lyric quiz and a circus show. JUNE 4–7 ANNIKINKATU.NET

ISTOCKPHOTO

FOR FAMILIES AIRPLANE ACROBATICS Finland International Air Show returns to Helsinki after a five-year hiatus, promising entertainment for the whole family. The highlight of this spectacle in the sky is the AeroSuperBatics group dancing on an airplane’s wings, performing handstands and hanging upside down. The British RV8tors planes and the Russian Yakovlevs Team will also do tricks in the air.

MEDIEVAL TIMES Finland’s oldest city Turku rolls the clocks back to the year 1491, when the 19th annual Medieval Market takes over the Old Great Square. The three-day family festival offers activities galore, especially for the children: a Princess School, medieval games, cuddly lambs and circus shows. Adults are entertained with knight fights, high quality handicrafts and medieval delicacies.

MEDIEVAL MARKET

AUGUST 16–17 FINLANDAIRSHOW.FI

JÄMSÄ-JUKOLA/TARMO KORHONEN

JUNE 26– 29 EN.KESKIAIKAISETMARKKINAT.FI

20 BLUE WINGS

FOR THE OUTDOORSY TYPE

SUMMER 2014

NIGHT ORIENTEERING

SAILING HELSINKI

One of the world’s biggest relay orienteering competitions, the annual Jukola relay has taken place in different parts of Finland for 65 years now. This time it will be held in the woods of Kuopio. The overnight race attracts more than 15,000 participants from 20 countries and in past years there have been some 1,500 “Jukola” men’s teams and 1,100 “Venla” women’s teams.

Some 110 small sailboats with international teams compete in the 49er Class European Championships in Helsinki. As the 49er is a fast, acrobatic sailing boat and the courses are short, spectators can view the contest from the shores of Hernesaari without needing a boat. Though the event is classified as a European Championship, it also accepts nonEuropean teams.

JUNE 14–15 JUKOLA.COM

JULY 6–13 49ER.ORG

This is not rocket science

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GO EAST,

YOUNG STARTUP FINNISH BUSINESSES ARE LOOKING EAST FOR PARTNERS, INVESTORS AND TALENT – BUT ABOVE ALL FOR ASIA’S PERFECT STORM OF GROWTH.

“

TEXT BY SILJA KUDEL

ast is East and West is West, and never the twain shall meet,” wrote Rudyard Kipling in 1889 – so long ago we can excuse him for a certain lack of business foresight. In the Asian Century, experts predict that everyone in the business world will have close interactions with the East – the sooner, the smarter. The rush to the East has witnessed unprecedented growth in partnering between Finnish and Asian businesses over the past decade. A recent headline case is Supercell, creators of hit games Clash of Clans and Hay Day. Last year the Finnish mobile prodigy raised eyebrows selling a $1.5 billion (€1.09 billion) stake in its business to Japan’s SoftBank.

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GREAT CALL OF CHINA The call of Asia is also beckoning newcomers such as Jolla, a fearless Finnish startup formed three years ago by a group of exNokia employees. In a real-life David and Goliath battle, Jolla plans to shake up the smartphone duopoly with its new handset launched last year. The Jolla phone runs on an open-source operating system called Sailfish OS, which will soon be downloadable on Android devices. “We are re-empowering users to choose which apps they want and how they want to use them,” says Jolla co-founder and CMO Sami Pienimäki. Sales of the handset were launched in Hong Kong last May in collaboration with local operator Hutchinson Telecom. They are also newly available via Amazon online. CANDY AND BLING Waiting to board a flight bound for Jolla’s second home of the past two years, Hong Kong, Pienimäki makes no secret of Jolla’s geographical focus: “China is where the money is. Developed markets offer only marginal opportunity for seizing market share, but China is more dynamic.” Jolla’s R&D team are constantly tweaking the phone’s features based on feedback from its user community. “Scandinavian design is recognised for its quality, but Asians prefer a richer user

experience. They like more candy and bling,” says Pienimäki. Jolla’s strategy for expanding its ecosystem is an open model of partnering with Asian operators and influential players such as Yandex, or “Russian Google.” “But Jolla is still very much a Finnish company and will remain headquartered in Helsinki. Having a presence in Asia doesn’t mean you have to relocate,” says Pienimäki. MUSICAL GATEWAY Another Finnish tech developer expanding its Asian presence is “edutainment” start-up SongHi Entertainment Ltd. Their mission is to bring the fun of music creation to everyone, regardless of income or background. “Our app offers a ‘gamified’ entry point into the world of music – much sexier than tooting a recorder in a classroom,” says CEO Jussi Aronen, zanily clad in the company ‘uniform’ of purple with leopard trim. There is already huge interest across Asia in the educational app, which will soon also be available in mobile and tablet version. “Musical instruments are very expensive in Southeast Asia, so we offer an affordable alternative. The app is free, but you can enhance your experience through in-app purchasing.” Aronen recently completed a round of negotiations with government agencies in Malaysia, Korea, Japan and Indonesia, as well as with partners in China. “The Malaysian government has made massive infrastructural investments to provide every student with an internet connection and wireless device. They are very keen on our app,” he says.

Now also establishing a footprint in the gaming industry, SongHi is gearing up for the launch of the first in a series of mobile games. Magical Melody Match is a dynamic, highly addictive puzzle in which players match monster types with changing voices and console-quality music. “Our mission is to do good by helping people around the world explore music in an individualised way. The gaming side is where we expect to generate revenues first.” IN THE BAG Bag business Insjö offers a fresh-faced example of bubbly EastWest chemistry. The business took off when Chinese postgrad student May Huang won the hearts of Finnish investors with her disarming pitch at Aalto University’s Startup Sauna. “You know the sinking feeling when you find that you left your wallet, keys and lipstick in your other handbag? With Insjö’s bagINbag, you can handily transfer the entire contents in one go. It meets a real need – to be beautifully organised,” explains Huang. Thanks to her contacts in Guangzhou, the lead-up from ideation to production took only three months. Normally it takes up to a year. “The design, colours and accessories are constantly evolving based on interviews in Helsinki and feedback collected through Facebook and emails. It’s an ongoing co-creation process,” says Huang. Insjö’s marketing is handled by UK-born Alex Vieler-Porter, who foresees a growing number of future companies operating with one foot in the East, one in the West. “They need to cast a wide net for the best expertise,” says Vieler-Porter. “We excel by combining our best qualities: my UK sales background with May’s fearless attitude and production insight, and our Finnish investors’ business experience. Our characters are a good mix.” l JOLLA.COM SONGHI.COM INSJO.COM

BUSINESS VAI PLEASURE? MOLEMMAT KIITOS.

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ŠKODA Superb Combi Business Outdoor alk. 39 752,84 €, autoveroton suositushinta alk. 31 175 € + arvioitu autovero 8 577,84 € CO2-päästöllä 134 g/km, yhdistetty kulutus 5,1 l/100 km. Malliston yhdistetty kulutus ja CO2-päästöt 5,1- 5,7 l/100 km ja 134-149 g/km. Hintoihin lisätään paikkakuntakohtaiset toimituskulut. Kuvan auto erikoisvarustein. Maahantuonti: HELKAMA Vuokraus: AVIS

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THE MULE OF THE MOUNTAINS VIETNAM’S NORTHERNMOST PROVINCE, HÀ GIANG, HAS STUNNING LANDSCAPES AND LIVELY SUNDAY MARKETS. THE MOST THRILLING WAY TO ROAM AROUND THE LITTLE-VISITED REGION IS BY LEGENDARY MINSK MOTORBIKE. TEXT AND PHOTOS BY VILLE PALONEN

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Manh HĂšng, a professional guide and expert mechanic, has been riding the winding roads of HĂ Giang province for more than ten years.

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BLUE WINGS

Rice terraces rule the landscape of North Vietnam’s mountains.

yres screech against the tarmac as I bring my motorcycle to a sudden halt. I make a U-turn and head towards a turnoff that I almost missed. A boy, not more than ten years old, is standing at the junction. He’s probably coming from school, his bicycle basket filled with books. For a moment the boy stares at me – a blondbearded creature riding an ancient smoke-puffing motorbike – with horror in his eyes. Then he springs into action: he drops his bike and runs for his dear life, schoolbooks spread in the middle of the road. “It’s not the first time this has happened”, says Manh Hùng, my motorbike guide. “Kids living in these rural villages don’t see foreigners so often.” We’re on a week-long motorbike trip around Hà Giang. The province, located in the northernmost part of Vietnam, is one of the most spectacular – but least visited – regions in the country. A road trip around the province is considered a once-in-a-lifetime adventure. Hà Giang’s landscape is dominated by misty mountains and dark karst hills rising from lush valley floors that look like spines of an enormous dragon. Villages and dusty towns squeezed in valleys, are connected only by pot-holed roads that snake over mountain passes. Slopes are blanketed with rice terraces, which are hundreds of years old, where farmers work with water

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buffaloes. Our route takes us to remote dirt roads just a stone’s throw from the Chinese border. My Vietnamese guide, Hùng, prefers adventurous side routes, and I want to see the authentic countryside. But before steering off the beaten track we’ll make an exception and stop for one of the most popular tourist sights in all of North Vietnam: Bac Ha Sunday market.

OUR ROUTE TAKES US TO REMOTE DIRT ROADS JUST A STONE’S THROW FROM THE CHINESE BORDER.

FLOWER POWER A black-haired piglet screams for his life as two sturdy ladies stuff it into a canvas sack. The wriggling package is tied to a moped rack. Nobody pays any attention; the crowd is focused on other animals for sale. Men circle around brawny water buffaloes, worth at least half a year’s income. Chicken with strapped feet are weighed, more screaming pigs bagged. Women dressed in traditional costumes sit alongside a small square, cute puppies playing at their feet. Hùng explains that here they’re sold as pets, not for food as would be customary in rest of the Vietnam. “Usually tribal people don’t eat dogs” he says. Bac Ha Sunday market is a must-see attraction for

Locals from all over the countryside gather in Bac Ha town for Sunday market. A traditional outfit worn by Flower Hmong is made of hemp. The clothes are weaved, dyed and embroided by hand.

every visitor to North Vietnam. It’s heart is the livestock market – buffaloes, pigs, horses, birds, lizards and even grasshoppers are for sale – but even a better reason to visit are the people. North Vietnam has dozens of ethnic minorities who have managed to preserve their traditions. Living in remote mountain villages, farming rice and keeping animals, they tend to visit the towns only on market days. Many H’mong, Dao and Tay people, especially women, still wear hand-woven and beautifully embroidered hemp clothes. The most striking costumes are worn by Flower H’mong people. Even though Hùng has warned me about touristy atmosphere, I enjoy the bustle of the market. There’s a souvenir area and a several dozen camera-touting Westerners (larger tourist groups arrive around lunchtime), but most of the people are locals. They have come to town to sell and buy farming tools, kids’ clothes and plastic canisters filled with rice wine and large rolls of tobacco. After strolling around for couple of hours we squeeze into a busy outdoor food stall and order breakfast. The only item on the menu is rice noodle soup called pho, which is a classic breakfast soup SUMMER 2014

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EASY RIDING IN NORTH VIETNAM The best place to start a motorbike trip is Sapa, a small tourist town located near the Chinese border. You can reach Sapa by night train (€30–40) from Hanoi to Lao Cai where you continue by minibus (€2,5). If you book a room beforehand your guesthouse can arrange train tickets and pick-up service. SAPATRAINS.COM

Sapa, located in 1,500 metres altitude and surrounded by hundreds of rice terraces, is a popular hiking destination. Most visitors make an overnight trek to nearby H’mong villages with a local guide. A superb and highly recommended trekking agency is Sapa Sisters, where a 3-day trek costs €100. SAPASISTERS.WEBS.COM

Accommodation in North Vietnam is cheap: a double room in a simple guesthouse sets you back €10. Motels in the countryside and small towns cost about the same. One of the most memorable experiences is to sleep at a homestay with a local family (usually less than €10 including meals). A great place to stay in Bac Ha is friendly Bac Ha Homestay (€12). BACHAHOMESTAY.COM FAMILYSAPA.COM

Sapa has countless places to rent a modern scooter (€5 per day), but if you want to ride an authentic Minsk motorbike you should contact Manh Hùng (minsktours@yahoo.com). Rental costs €15 per day and guiding services €40 per day. You should have a driver’s license (a car license will do just fine) and a travel insurance that covers accidents. A return trip from Sapa to Meo Vac takes 5 to 7 days. An average daily distance is 150 kilometres depending on the road conditions and the weather. The best time for a motorbike adventure is AugustNovember when the temperature is 15 to 25 Celsius, depending on altitude. Weather is very local: when a mountain pass basks in sunshine it might be raining in the next valley. Buy rain clothes and rubber boots in Sapa for a couple of euros, and make sure your bags are waterproof. Further reading: Sparring with Charlie by Christopher Hunt

Sometimes mountain roads are in such a bad condition that passing is possible only with proper fourwheel drive, a tractor, or a motorbike.

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sold everywhere in Vietnam. A strong broth is stewed overnight, and noodles and slices of crispy pork are added just before serving. We throw in some chili and a handful of fresh mint leaves, and squeeze a lime on top of everything. The taste is divine. When our bowls are empty, it’s time to hit the road again. WORKHORSE OF THE MOUNTAINS The best thing about riding a motorbike is that you can go practically anywhere. Hùng proves the point by leading me to a narrow dirt road. After a river crossing and a few kilometres of gravel and larger stones, the track becomes brown with mud, resembling soft chocolate pudding. The mess is 30 centimetres deep and covers the track for hundreds of metres. On my travels to dozens of countries I’ve never experienced a road like this. Just when I think the worst is over, the real test begins. We turn to a narrow stone road leading up a hillside and towards a mountain pass somewhere in the clouds. The road – or rather a path – is so steep that our bikes lose torque and we need to dismount. We reach the hilltop walking alongside our bikes, partly pushing and partly riding them. The Minsk motorbike might be legendary, but it’s not almighty. “I could buy a powerful 4-stroke dirt bike, but those modern machines don’t mean anything to me,”

Sleeping at a village homestay provides an opportunity to peek into rural everyday life, where food is cooked over an open fire.

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Rush hour on a mountain road: locals return from a Sunday market.

“IN THE COUNTRYSIDE, THE MINSK IS THE MASTER OF TRANSPORTATION.”

says Hùng. “I love the Minsk, every part of it. It has a history.” The Minsk certainly has character. The original version is a serious-looking retro motorcycle. It’s said, jokingly, to have such a simple design that even a monkey with a hammer and a stone could fix it. This hunk of steel was designed in Belarus in Soviet times for the harsh conditions of the Ural Mountains and Siberia. The world may have changed, but this workhorse still rules the mountains and hills of Vietnam. “The large wheels are great for off-road, and the bike is surprisingly comfortable to ride,” says Hùng. “In the countryside the Minsk is master of transportation.” INTO THE HEART OF DARKNESS Hùng, 41, is a friendly and easy-going fellow with a taste for an adventure (his favourite phrase is a lazy “it’s ookaayy”). He began renting motorbikes and 32 BLUE WINGS

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organising guided trips in the end of 1990s and has taken travellers across the border to Laos and for 3-week-long journeys from Sapa to Saigon. But most foreigners want a similar experience to mine: the untamed mountain roads along the Chinese border. Hùng is an expert mechanic so his fleet of ten Minsks is tuned according to his personal taste: he has stripped them down to the bare minimum. There’s no ignition key, nor gauges for speed or fuel. Hùng has even removed the horns because he hates people who honk all the time (although a sound signal would come handy for warning kids who play in the middle of the road). But the most essential missing part is a proper headlight. In Vietnam everybody tries to avoid travelling at night on mountain roads because it’s very slow and potentially dangerous. But after spending the whole morning at Bac Ha market and stopping countless times for photographs, the darkness takes us by surprise. We’re still dozens of kilometres from our destination. The dark road snaking down the mountainside feels endless. Drizzle makes the asphalt slippery, and at every hairpin curve we have to reduce our speed to a walking pace. Our headlights get their power from an antique dynamo system, so when we slow down, the light

The stretch between Dong Van and Meo Vac is considered the most beautiful road in Vietnam.

In the countryside, every small shop doubles as a gas station.

practically dies out. A few times we need to literally stop because we’re not able to see where the road ends and a vertical drop to dark jungle begins. I take out my tiny headlamp and strap it around my helmet. Maybe the lorries that struggle uphill with their blinding headlights won’t run us over. After two seemingly never-ending hours we finally reach a highway. Our overnight stop is a farmhouse in the middle of rice paddies. It’s built on stilts and has a Spartan decor: the floor is made of bamboo strips, mosquito nets divide the sleeping quarters, and a portrait of Ho Chi Minh hangs on the wall. The only furniture is a fridge. In the back, next to a hole-in-the-floor toilet is a pigsty. But Hùng knows the friendly family well and staying at a local home is an unforgettable experience. We eat dinner sitting on the floor. Steamed vegetables and fried pork are washed down with numerous small cups of homemade rice wine.

When it rains the road turns into brown pudding that covers your boots and clothes.

a We are i m RovaniePass r Summe ation destin

Are you aware of the number of ways in which forests shape your everyday life? Come and find out at the Pilke Science Centre in Rovaniemi. At this exhibition, suitable for the whole family, visitors can learn about the Northern forests and the many benefits they bring us, through all five senses and hands-on learning experiences.

Open 1 June – 31 August: Mon–Fri 9 a.m–6 p.m., Sat–Sun 10 a.m.–6 p.m. Ounasjoentie 6, Rovaniemi, Finland

Tel. +358 205 64 7820

info@sciencecentrepilke.fi

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Mr Binh is a proud owner of a massive moonshine distiller.

Minsk is a legendary Soviet motorbike. It’s not the strongest bike around, but what Minsk lacks in power, it wins over in character.

When we retire to our makeshift beds (the mattress is thinner than the blanket), Hùng falls asleep instantly. His snoring reminds me of the manly roar of a Minsk. EASY RIDING Mountain roads are exhilarating and exciting. There’s no knowing what danger might lurk behind the next

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curve: a landslide, a group of playing kids, or maybe a one-ton water buffalo strolling in the middle of the road. Sometimes thick mist reduces visibility down to a couple of dozen metres, and more often than not chicken and geese push their luck by running across the road. But riding a motorbike is rewarding too. When we pass a tiny hamlet, children start screaming and waving madly like we were participants in an off-road Dakar Rally. Families harvest rice on roadside fields and Flower H’mong women with their colourful dresses return from local markets. A moped with a cage full of miserable dogs on their way to a restaurant zips by. In Vietnam anything can and will be transported by twowheelers. It’s not unusual to see a family of five or two refrigerators on a single scooter. There’s even a popular postcard portraying a water buffalo on a moped rack. In the northernmost corner of Hà Giang – and the whole country – the landscape turns even more dramatic. The 20-kilometre stretch between Dong Van and Meo Vac is praised to be the most beautiful road in Vietnam. It’s also the turning point of our 1000-kilometre round trip. We ride slowly along the road snaking on a mountainside, stopping for photos every kilometre or so. The view is airy: a rocky cliff drops almost vertically hundreds of metres down to a roaring river. When we reach the bottom of a small valley I run out of gas. Fortunately help is near as every valley has a village, every village has a shop, and every shop sells fuel in one-litre plastic bottles. I empty a few of them into my tank and begin the return trip back to Sapa. Hùng wants us to visit another friend of his. We reach a small roadside village just before the sunset and Hùng leads me to a wooden house next to a main square which has been transformed into a badminton court. Mr Binh welcomes us cheerfully. The 70-year-old gentleman sporting a black beret is in a good mood: his wife has left for a wedding party, so Binh has invited his friends for an evening of gambling and corn wine. Binh’s courtyard turns out to be a serious distillery. Fermented corn mash is boiled in a massive metal tank, and the (rather tasty) moonshine is stored in plastic canisters that occupy half of the kitchen. We toast with fresh corn wine before, during and after the dinner. Then we let the happy Mahjong players carry on their business, and walk to the only motel in the village. l FINNAIR flies to Hanoi three times weekly until September 22.

KEVYIN ASKELIN ABISKOSSA Abisko-sarjan tuotteet ovat kevyitä ja hyvin hengittäviä; juuri sopivia kesäisille vaelluksille ja päiväretkille. Nimi juontaa juurensa Abiskon kansallispuistosta ja pienestä kylästä Nuoljan juurella Ruotsin Lapissa. Upeat jokimaisemat, koivumetsät ja vehreät niityt houkuttelevat vaeltajia löytöretkille sekä tasaiseen että vähän vaihtelevampaan maastoon. Juuri tämänlaisille kesävaelluksille olemme suunnitelleet Abisko-sarjan. Useimmissa tuotteissa yhdistyy G-1000 Lite ja mt, mutta olemme valinneet mukaan myös muita kevyitä, hengittäviä ja nopeasti kuivuvia materiaaleja. Abisko-tuotteet ovat myös helppoja pakata mukaan, sillä ne vievät repussa vain vähän tilaa. Täydellistä silloin, kun vaellat pohjoisen kesässä tai reissaat kuumissa ilmastoissa. Tutustu Abisko-sarjan tuotteisiin osoitteessa www.fjallraven.fi

EUROPEAN VOICES BY SIXTEN KORKMAN

Investing in the future

any foreigners The outlook is bleak but there are also think that Finland grounds for optimism. The startup activity is a successful of new entrepreneurs is vibrant and new high-tech coungrowth companies are entering the scene. try. Like other Recent wage agreements are quite modNordic counerate and should help restore competitries, Finland has tiveness. The level of public debt remains indeed been able modest and Finland benefits from low to modernise and combine economic effiinterest rates associated with its triple-A ciency with social equity better than most credit rating. Also, important structural countries. However, our economy is now reforms are being prepared. in a serious crisis. The problems of Finland are in many So what is wrong? First, the Nokia flagways quite different from the problems ship has shrunk dramatically in size, as has of Greece or Spain and Portugal. Howthe ICT-sector as a whole. Second, paper ever, both Finland and the southern counconsumption tries share a common is declining problem in the form and our paper of lack of credit and/ THERE IS SIGNIFICANT industry is now or a seriously overSPENDING ON R&D AND only a fraction valued exchange rate. INNOVATION. of what it was The stubbornness a decade ago. with which the EuroThird, metal pean Central Bank refining is unprofitable due to the expanECB refuses to take action to encourage sion in China’s capacity. In all, our manucredit expansion is amazing, not least as facturing industry and exports have sufthe inflation rate in the euro area is now fered quite a serious blow. undershooting the objective as defined Unfortunately, wages were raised by the bank. Hopefully the ECB will act somewhat carelessly during the good ASAP. years. The consequences of the competiWhile investments are down, Finland is tiveness problem add to the weakness nevertheless investing in its future. There of exports and current account deficits. is significant spending on R&D and innoAlso, in past years public spending vation. The educational system is one of was increased to levels which are now the best in the world according to the almost unprecedented relative to GDP. PISA tests and Finland was recently found The government is running a budget to be the best country in the world for deficit (though it remains smaller than mothers. 3 per cent of GDP) and government A country investing in its future citidebt is increasing. A rapidly aging zens will not fail. With some confidence population implies a significant suswe can refer to the saying: “We have a glotainability gap in public finances. rious past and a brilliant future – it’s just the present situation which is damned difTHE UNCERTAINTIES related to the ficult.” l situation in Ukraine and the weakness of the Russian economy add a further AALTO UNIVERSITY professor Sixten downside risk to the economic outKorkman is the former director general at the look. Given all these negative facCouncil of the EU’s Directorate for Economic tors, it is not surprising that economic and Social Affairs. His latest book is Euro: growth is expected to remain weak valutta vailla valtiota (Euro: the currency and unemployment to keep rising. without a state).

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SENATE PROPERTIES SELLING THREE VALUABLE BUILDINGS IN CENTRE OF HELSINKI

EROTTAJANKATU 2, 00100 HELSINKI

ALBERTINKATU 25, 00180 HELSINKI

ANTINKATU 1, 00100 HELSINKI

Located on the edge of Diana Park, the property comprises two adjacent buildings (on Erottajankatu and Yrjönkatu). The two were built in 1889-1891 and 1903-1905. The total surface area is about 10,000 square metres. The space has been rented to the Finnish state until early 2017. The purpose according to the city plan: a plot of land for a general purpose building.

Office building located on the corner of Bulevardi and Albertinkatu. The 9-storey building was completed in 1961. Net floor area is about 11,687 square metres. The building has been partially rented out. Purpose of use under the city plan: block area for administrative and office buildings (YH).

Office premises located in a central location in Kamppi. The 8-storey building was completed in 1952. Net floor area is about 12,391 square metres. The building has been partially rented out. Purpose of use under the city plan: block area for administrative and office buildings (YH).

A more detailed brochure is available: www.tkoy.fi/en/kohde/2174

A more detailed brochure is available: www.tkoy.fi/en/kohde/2176

Those who are interested are requested to submit a tender by 18 June 2014 by 12:00 noon to the address: Senate Properties, Development Premises / Esa Pentikäinen, PL 237 (Lintulahdenkatu 5 A), 00531 Helsinki. Please indicate on the envelope ”Albertinkatu 25 - bidding competition”. The actual bidding competition is to be held in August-September, at which time all who have entered will receive the material, as well as a detailed timetable and the conditions linked with the transaction.

Those who are interested are requested to submit a tender by 18 June 2014 by 12:00 noon to the address: Senate Properties, Development Premises / Esa Pentikäinen, PL 237 (Lintulahdenkatu 5 A), 00531 Helsinki. Please indicate on the envelope ”Antinkatu 1 - bidding competition”. The actual bidding competition is to be held in August-September, at which time all who have entered will receive the material, as well as a detailed timetable and the conditions linked with the transaction.

A more detailed brochure is available: www.tkoy.fi/en/kohde/2175 Deadline for binding offers: 18 June 2014 by 12:00 noon to the address: Senate Properties, Development Premises / Esa Pentikäinen, PL 237 (Lintulahdenkatu 5 A), 00531 Helsinki. Please indicate on the envelope ”Erottajankatu 2”. Offers should contain the price and the other key conditions for the transaction.

On the tendering procedure Senate Properties sells the buildings on the basis of bids, reserves the right to request more details for the bids, and to approve or reject the offers. A final decision on the sales is made by the Finnish Parliament. The aim is to implement the sale of Erottaja 2 in 2014 and the two other properties in 2015. Shared bids are also taken into consideration.

Further information and showings: Matti Ahrelma, Tuloskiinteistöt Oy | matti.ahrelma@tkoy.fi | Tel. +358 400 320 999 Further information also available in Finnish at www.senaattimyy.fi

GEMS OF EASTERN EUROPE

CASTLE WITH VIEW IN LJUBLJANA Saved from ruin, the restored Ljubljana Castle serves many cultural and historic purposes. Originally built in the 12th century, the castle now hosts a museum, café, restaurant, an art gallery and several cultural events throughout the year. Hike up the steep hill or take the funicular to get a view of the Slovenian capital. To truly indulge, enjoy a glass of champagne at the top of the tower whilst admiring the striking panorama. LJUBLJANSKIGRAD.SI

FINNAIR FLIES nonstop to Ljubljana up to four times weekly. ARNE HODALIČ

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TOP

GEMS OF EASTERN EUROPE

TRAVELLING IN EASTERN EUROPE IS LIKE DRIFTING BETWEEN OLD AND NEW. THESE FIVE CITIES COMBINE HERITAGE WITH A TEXT BY LAURA IISALO MODERN TWIST.

RAFAŁ SOSIN

KRAKOW’S MODERN ART WITH LEGACY Krakow’s Enamel Factory is a building with legacy. Its story was reintroduced to the world with Steven Spielberg’s renowned film Schindler’s List as the metal item factory where Oskar Schindler helped to protect his Jewish workers from being deported to Nazi concentration camps. In 2010 the industrial building was renovated into Krakow’s museum of contemporary art, MOCAK. Designed by Italian architects Claudio Nardi and Leonardo Proliand, the building also boasts a bookshop, library and café that invite visitors to enjoy a relaxing and art-infused afternoon. Entrance is free on Tuesdays. MOCAK.PL

FINNAIR FLIES nonstop to Krakow up to five times weekly.

BAR HOPPING IN BUDAPEST Before the Second World War, the seventh district in Budapest was home to a flourishing Jewish community. The area has later emerged as one of the finest bar-hopping neighbourhoods. With shabby furniture and mind-blowing style, the ruin pubs (romkocsma in Hungarian) are usually set in abandoned buildings and provide insight into the local way of life. Each pub is unique but Szimpla kert was the first ever ruin pub to emerge. It is still a perfect place to unwind and enjoy a beer or cocktail after a busy day.

RUINPUBS

SZIMPLA.HU, RUINPUBS.COM

FINNAIR FLIES nonstop to Budapest up to three times daily.

ANTIQUE HUNTING IN BUCHAREST Libscani has always been the most important commercial area in Bucharest. It is where European merchants and craftsmen have been trading their goods since the Middle Ages. During the communist era, the area was scheduled to be demolished, but instead the district has turned itself into Bucharest’s liveliest hub of culture, nightlife and shopping. Among the contemporary attractions stands a new concept store called Thomas Antique. Despite its recent opening, the place is a tribute to the past. Once inside, the visitors are invited to enjoy a cup of coffee or a glass of wine while sitting on the antique furniture or even better – on a little balcony overlooking the busy little street below. LIPSCANIBUCHAREST.COM, THOMAS-ANTIQUES.RO

FINNAIR OFFERS daily service to Bucharest in cooperation with

SEASIDE SIGHTINGS IN DUBROVNIK Exquisite architecture and vivid café culture make Dubrovnik a stunning holiday destination. Nothing suggests how much damage was brought about during the bombardment of the 1991 siege. To fully experience the tranquil Mediterranean atmosphere, visit the 360 Degrees restaurant. Set within the historical Walls of Dubrovnik, their food is a mix of traditional Croatian and contemporary Mediterranean cuisine. Ask for a spot overlooking the harbour and admire the fisherman returning with their catch of the day – just like they have been doing for centuries.

360DUBROVNIK.COM

FINNAIR FLIES daily to Dubrovnik during peak summer season.

oneworld partner Airberlin.

SUMMER 2014

BLUE WINGS

VANCOUVER’S

ASIAN CONNECTION TEXT BY KATJA PANTZAR

IN CANADA’S MOST ASIAN CITY, MORE THAN A QUARTER OF THE POPULATION IS OF CHINESE ORIGIN. EVER-CHANGING CHINATOWN SETS THE SCENE FOR EXPLORING THE MINI-METROPOLIS NESTLED BETWEEN OCEAN AND MOUNTAINS.

DAVID HEWITSON

The Shop Vancouver

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oused in a lovingly restored heritage building, The Shop Vancouver is tucked away on Columbia, a side street in the city’s historic Chinatown. The cosy hardwood-floor lined store specialises in motorcycle parts and accessories. It also serves up one of the city’s best cups of coffee, brewed from an organic blend prepared by drip brew or French press. That’s no small feat in this West Coast town dominated by Starbucks – there are more than 100 outlets and most Vancouverites are less than 800 metres from the nearest one. “My friend Jim roasts the coffee for us locally,” says Brett Beadle, who co-founded the shop with his friend T.J. Schneider a few years ago. “It’s nice to have a one-on-one relationship with someone you’re doing business with.” Beadle discovered the space through friends. “The rent was affordable, and knowing that we had young, like-minded people with similar aspirations next door was a great feeling to have when opening something new,” says Beadle. The Shop’s next-door neighbours

TOURISM VANCOUVER

Vancouverâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Chinatown was first settled in the late 1800s.

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TOURISM VANCOUVER

For 17 years Chinatown’s East Pender Street hosted a popular night market that is currently on hiatus.

are Duchess Vintage and Such, a boutique selling vintage clothing, furniture and housewares. “More businesses have moved in lately, and it seems like Chinatown has a bit more of a vibe about it than it ever did when we moved in, which is very cool,” he says. Beadle, who recently sold his share of the Shop Vancouver to his partner, represents Chinatown’s fresh generation of young, independent entrepreneurs – many of whom are not of Chinese origin. GENTRIFICATION WOES Located on the eastern side of downtown Vancouver on the border of its skid row, Chinatown was originally settled by the Chinese who came for the Fraser River Gold Rush in the 1850s and to work on the railroads and in the mines in the 1880s. A century later, in the 1980s and ’90s, the Chinese who relocated here were mostly wealthy Hong Kong Chinese, many settled in Vancouver in anticipation of the handover of Hong Kong from Britain to China in 1997. The current wave of Asian immigration to Vancouver continues; these days it’s a favoured real estate investment destination for affluent Mainland Chinese and the Taiwanese. Some are concerned that the city’s new condo development boom is putting Chinatown’s architectural and cultural heritage at risk. And while many traditional Chinese businesses are indeed closing, this new wave of residents from the Far East represents hope for many. Albert Fok, president of the Chinatown Business Improvement Association, welcomes change. “Some people are worried about the watering down of Chinatown. But if it makes the community thrive, so be it,” he said in a recent interview with The Globe and Mail, Canada’s leading national newspaper.

VANCOUVER IS THE MOST ASIAN CITY OUTSIDE OF ASIA.

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CHINATOWN MUST-SEES DR SUN YAT SEN CLASSICAL CHINESE GARDEN The public park and Chinese garden with a mandate to build bridges between Chinese and Western cultures is named for Dr Sun Yat Sen, a nationalist leader considered to be the father of modern China. Throughout the year there are exhibitions and events such as the Enchanted Evenings concert series every Friday night during July and August. 578 Carrall Street VANCOUVERCHINESEGARDEN.COM

BAO BEI CHINESE BRASSERIE Try a Chino margarita made from tequila, ginger and lime, or an appetiser such as the divine pot sticker (dumplings stuffed with finely minced pork or vegetables) at Bao Bei, which means “precious.” The kitchen serves a mix of Shanghai, Taiwan and Vietnamese cuisines. Tables are on a first-come first-serve basis (no reservations accepted). 163 Keefer Street BAO-BEI.CA

The area has been undergoing major transformations in the last two decades as new, bigger Chinatowns have sprung up in the Vancouver suburb of Richmond, where 50 per cent of the population is Chinese. The Chinese-Canadians (one in five Vancouverites is of Chinese origin) who used to come here to visit a traditional herbalist, attend temple, or shop for groceries, now head out to Richmond’s Aberdeen Centre (named after Aberdeen Harbour in Hong Kong), a sprawling mega-mall that was built in the late 1980s. A BIT OF BERLIN Around the corner from The Shop Vancouver on Pender Street is Bestie, which bills itself as “Chinatown’s best currywurst.” Dane Brown and Clinton McDougall raised 16,000 dollars (about €10,500) through online crowd-funding platform Indiegogo for their sausage-and-beer parlour, inspired by German street food, which opened in the spring of 2013. “Chinatown has such an interesting, special history of things being done differently and on its own terms,” says Brown. “We were attracted to the character and messy vitality that is unlike any other neighbourhood in this young city. Changes in Chinatown have allowed young entrepreneurs like us to take a risk and try something new,” he says. Before Bestie opened its doors, the storefront had been vacant for several years.

BEYOND CHINATOWN From Chinatown head west either on foot, by taxi or bus, to Stanley Park, a 1,000-acre public park in downtown Vancouver surrounded by the Pacific Ocean. Within the park – which is larger than New York’s Central Park – are 27 kilometres of lush forest trails. The Vancouver Aquarium, the largest aquarium in Canada, is here, as are Canada’s most visited tourist attraction: the nine Totem Poles at Brockton Point that pay respect to the First Nations, the aboriginals who first lived in the area. Walk or bike the Stanley Park seawall (22 kilometres) – a Vancouver ritual – to English Bay, which hosts many public events including The Celebration of Light, an annual fireworks competition that takes place during the last week of July and the first week of August. From English Bay, Davie Street runs up to Canada’s first permanent rainbow-coloured crosswalk in the heart of its LGBTQ-friendly Davie Street Village. Nearby Robson Street houses shops from Roots (Canadian clothing and accessories) to popular global brands. The landmark Hotel Vancouver is the perfect spot to end the day with a drink in their opulent lounge. TOURISMVANCOUVER.COM

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Tuulisähköä kotiisi helposti www.vantaanenergia.fi/tuuli ja liitä sähkösopimukseesi • Klikkaa pienellä lisämaksulla tuulisähköosuus 1 000 kWh/vuosi. tuulisähköosuus maksaa vain 2,00 €/kk. • Yksi Saat sertifikaatin todistuksena ilmastomyönteisestä • energiaratkaisustasi.

Vantaan Energia on Suomen suurimpia tuulisähkön tuottajia.

www.vantaanenergia.fi

WAYNE WEB PHOTO

Dane Brown (r) is one of Bestie’s co-founders.

“In recent years, some of the traditional business have closed up or moved on. This is for a variety of reasons, but now we are seeing more and more young entrepreneurs and start-ups come in. They can afford to try something new and are attracted to the gritty character and history of the neighbourhood,” says Brown. He says that Bestie’s most popular menu item is its currywurst, which comes in the form of a sliced sausage (free-range pork, veggie, or a rotating selection of poultry and game sausages) served over crispy fries with house-made curry ketchup. “This is the item that people tell their friends about and come back for over and over again,” says Brown. l

STEVEN SMITH

PHOTO

TOURISM VANCOUVER

FINNAIR offers several daily services to Vancouver in cooperation with oneworld partner British Airways.

I AM CANADIAN Management consultant Connie Chan, who was born and raised in Vancouver, is one of the 43 per cent of Vancouverites with Asian origins. “I definitely feel more Canadian than Chinese,” says Chan, who didn’t visit China until she was in her early 30s. But she has maintained an affinity with her Chinese ancestry. “It’s partly because my mother, despite having lived in Canada for over 40 years, is still quite traditional and speaks broken English,” says Chan, whose mother tongue is English. “But as a result, I have learned more about Chinese culture than perhaps my other Chinese friends whose parents are also first-generation Canadians. I’m glad that I learned and retained some aspects of Chinese culture and that I can speak Cantonese.” Both of her parents are from the predominantly Cantonese-speaking province of Guongdong, in southwest China bordering Hong Kong. They met and married in Hong Kong and immigrated to Canada in April 1967 to escape the threat of communism. “Although the transfer of sovereignty of Hong Kong from the UK back to China was years away [1997], they wanted a better life and a good education for their two young children as well as their future children – my sister Winnie and I, who were born in Canada,” says Chan. “Vancouver has long been viewed favourably by Hong Kong Chinese,” she says. “During the past 30 years there’s been an increase in the amount of housing purchased by Chinese nationals and I hear more Mandarin than Cantonese being spoken by youth.” 44 BLUE WINGS

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GOOD TO KNOW Lauded for its natural West Coast beauty and enviable location between the sea and mountains, Vancouver routinely ranks among the most liveable cities in the world. It’s also one of North America’s most expensive cities to live in – Vancouver housing is the world’s second-least affordable after Hong Kong. Warmed by Pacific Ocean currents and protected by the mountains, Vancouver boasts a mild climate year round, with an average annual temperature of 11 degrees Celsius. Winters are usually rainy in the city, with snow in the mountains. One of the world’s top ski resorts, Whistler Blackcomb, is 125 kilometres north of Vancouver. Population: Vancouver 620,000, Greater Vancouver region 2.4 million 10 Canadian dollars = 6.60 euros When eating out, please note that sales tax is added to restaurant bills and a tip of 10 to 15 per cent of the total bill before tax is expected.

FINLAND Marja Kurki SHOP | Pohjoisesplanadi 25-27 | 00100 Helsinki | marjakurki.com

EUROPEAN VOICES BY ALEXANDER STUBB

Pink Wheels keep on turning

nglish philosopher awareness of breast cancer and stem cell registers, she created the Team Pink Thomas Hobbes used Wheels movement. She leads by examto say that “Life is nasty, ple and wants to show that every one of us brutish and short.” My can make a difference. And boy, she has! favourite Greek philosBy now we, the Pink Wheelers, are opher, Aristotle, disain the hundreds. We are active in social greed. He believed that media, raise money for charity and wear we should all strive to live funny pink stuff in every little sports event a “good and happy life.” we participate in. Yes, yes, I admit that us We all agree that life has a beginning, “dandy” boys enjoy wearing pink.... middle and an end. We also agree that every life is different, and special. The THE WONDERFUL THING with Elina is time we spend on earth is as varied as our that she has motivated all of us on at least experience of life. three counts. First, she shows us what When we are young, we rarely think resilience and a positive about the limits of our attitude to life means. time on earth. We She refuses to become just live day by ELINA HAS MADE a victim and is thankful day. As we THIS WORLD A for the life she has lived. start maturSecond, she gets us ing (I am not BETTER PLACE. middle-aged moaners off there yet!) our the couch and on to the first morbid exercise trail. Last year she participated in thoughts start hitting home. the Finnish Championships of time trial My grandparents and my cycling, which was impressive as she had mother have passed away. just recovered from breast cancer. A few of my classmates and Third, she will leave a legacy. The Pink friends are no longer alive. Wheels movement she has created will Some have survived difficult save lives. It will increase awareness of illnesses, others have not. I cancer and raise money for research. The am thankful for every day that world will be a better place because of I live. Elina, even after she has left us. This spring I was once again For these reasons, and many others, I hit by the unpredictability of life. want to thank Elina for everything that she Elina, a neighbour and fellow has done for us. I wish all of us could be as sport enthusiast, was diagnosed good and happy as Elina. And finally, she with incurable cancer. She had has made me realise that Aristotle must first conquered breast cancer, have worn pink! l but was later hit by leukaemia. Doctors told her she only has For more information and donations, a few weeks to live. visit Oma.syopasaatio.fi Elina is not the type of person who gives up easily. Alexander Stubb is Finland’s She decided to live the rest Minister of European Affairs of her life, as she always and Foreign Trade and a member of has, to the fullest. Team Pink Wheels. Wanting to raise

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Parhaalle ei ole vaihtoehtoa.

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Mercedes-Benz – Suomen myydyin tax free -auto 2013* Uusi C-sarja tax free -hinta alk. 27 415 €** Mikäli olet lähdössä ulkomaille pidemmäksi aikaa tai jo asut siellä, voit hankkia uuden, verovapaan auton Suomesta. Vehon Tax Free -myyntipalvelu on tässä kohtaa paras kumppani. Saat verovapaan ja edullisen hinnan lisäksi luotettavan palvelun sekä Suomen varusteet ja vientirekisteröinnin valmiina. *Lähde: Liikenteen Turvallisuusvirasto Traﬁ/vientirekisteröinnit 2013.

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THE GREAT LOC MANY NATURAL BEAUTY SPOTS LIE WITHIN EASY REACH FROM THE FINNISH CAPITAL, ENABLING MEMORABLE OUTDOOR ADVENTURES.

TEXT BY FRAN WEAVER

PHOTOS BY RODEO

he view from an aircraft approaching Helsinki reveals how close the city is to extensive green forests and the scenic shores and islands of the Gulf of Finland. Helsinki is one of the few capital cities where residents and visitors can escape so easily into wild natural settings in the great outdoors. Standing on a rocky crag overlooking the calm waters of a tree-fringed lake it’s hard to believe you are just 30 kilometres northwest from downtown Helsinki. The deep forests, rugged hills and serene lakes of Nuuksio National Park are the most popular destination among Helsinki’s nature-lovers. “Though we’re just 40 minutes from the city centre, here in Nuuksio’s forests you really feel like you’re surrounded by wild nature,” says wilderness guide Olli Rinne. Rinne’s company Feel the Nature runs scheduled and tailored outdoor adventures in Nuuksio, including canoeing trips suitable for beginners or aficionados. The company also specialises in themed excursions

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where participants can learn about wildlife or natural foods and healing products. The peak berry-picking and mushroom-foraging season begins in late summer. “Most Finns recognise at least a few tasty berries and mushrooms, but our foreign visitors have great fun discovering how to find their own wild food safely,” says Rinne. He adds that areas like Nuuksio are also perfectly safe to explore without a guide, as long as you have a good map and keep to the many marked trails. Nuuksio’s animal inhabitants include elk, deer and mysterious flying squirrels, as well as birds from nightingales and woodpeckers to divers, hawks and owls. Bears, wolves and lynx also roam through occasionally, though close encounters with these wary beasts are extremely rare. THE CAPITAL’S GREEN BELT In 2013 a major new attraction opened on the fringes of Nuuksio National Park. The Finnish Nature Centre Haltia’s permanent exhibitions include “The Green

NATURAL WELLBEING The lovely forests, streams and lakes of Nuuksio National Park lie less than an hour from downtown Helsinki.

AL WILD Belt,” which focuses on natural wonders within easy reach of Helsinki. Tapani Mikkola of Metsähallitus Natural Heritage Services, the agency that runs Finland’s national parks and hiking areas, explains that the Green Belt concept aims to increase awareness of natural attractions in and around the metropolitan area. “By spotlighting these beautiful places on our doorstep we’re encouraging people to get away from their TVs and computers into the outdoors to enjoy healthy recreation, while also promoting the conservation of valuable natural areas,” he explains. One of the newest additions to the vast nature offerings in the capital region is Sipoonkorpi. Just a stone’s throw from Helsinki’s eastern suburbs, it was established as a national park in 2011. “Though Sipoonkorpi doesn’t yet have as many facilities for visitors as Nuuksio, it’s still a great place to explore, with many good areas for picking berries and mushrooms,” says Mikkola.

Our busy but sedentary modern lifestyles make us vulnerable to health problems ranging from stress and depression to obesity and diabetes. The Moved by Nature project, run by Metsähallitus Natural Heritage Services, aims to combat such conditions by encouraging people to get out into natural settings. “Recent studies have shown that enjoying even gentle activity in natural areas can improve your blood pressure and heart rate, while Japanese studies have shown that spending time in green areas reduces levels of stress hormones,” says project manager Kati Vähäsarja. “Getting people out and about in natural settings can help prevent a wide range of physical and mental health problems from stress and sleeplessness to weight gain. Sharing such experiences also makes people feel more socially connected.” To enable people to enjoy fruitful physical activity together in beautiful natural settings, while also promoting nature conservation, Natural Heritage Services regularly organise voluntary work sessions in national parks like Nuuksio and green areas including the islands of Vallisaari-Kuninkaansaari near Helsinki. Volunteers’ tasks may include mowing meadows or clearing growths of invasive alien plant species. Tools and picnic lunches are provided. For details of voluntary work opportunities see www.outdoors.fi.

STEP INTO THE FOREST – IT’S FREE AND SOLVES A RANGE OF HEALTH PROBLEMS.

Studies show that gentle exercise in natural settings brings many health benefits.

Nuuksio’s forestfringed lakes provide ideal settings for waterborne activities.

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Helsinki’s surroundings offer many places where you can easily get away from it all.

THE WILD CITY Maps of the Green Belt also show green fingers extending right into the city. Mikkola’s own favourite local green area is Helsinki’s Central Park, which is much bigger and wilder than its namesake in New York. “The forests, fields, rivers and trails of Central Park are just a few minutes from my home, and it’s great to have opportunities so near for all kinds of activities I enjoy, like jogging, orienteering, kayaking and cross-country skiing,” he says. Finland’s liberal laws of public access to the land, known as Everyman’s Right, give everyone freedom to roam Finland’s forests and enjoy outdoor activities and natural products, so long as they cause no damage to private property. The local authorities encourage outdoor recreation by preserving green areas complete with signposted trails and freely usable campfire sites. In the suburbs around Helsinki you’re never far from a shady forest or a scenic lakeshore. SEASCAPES AND ISLANDS Within a surprisingly short distance from the heart of the Finnish capital you can also enjoy superb coastal scenery. This part of the Gulf of Finland is dotted with many islands from windswept rocky islets to larger wooded islands with secluded beaches. Regular boat trips run through the summer to islands popular with picnickers and nature-lovers, including Pihlajasaari (from Merisatama or Ruoholahti) and Kaunissaari (from Vuosaari). West of Helsinki an island-hopping waterbus plies the labyrinthine waters of the Espoo Archipelago. More adventurous marine explorers can rent sea-kayaks from Vuosaari Paddling Centre in Helsinki’s eastern suburbs to explore nearby islands, or join the centre’s guided kayaking trips. For landlubbers, Uutela nature trail, near Vuosaari, offers splendid views out to sea in the same area, as well as pleasant woodland walks. l 50 BLUE WINGS

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GREEN DESTINATIONS NUUKSIO NATIONAL PARK OUTDOORS.FI

Bus 85 or 88 from Espoo railway station. Buses also run directly to the Finnish Nature Centre Haltia on the edge of the park from Kiasma art gallery daily in the summer at 09:30, 11:30, 13:45. HALTIA.COM

ORGANISED OUTDOOR ADVENTURES IN NUUKSIO FEELTHENATURE.FI

HELSINKI CENTRAL PARK Bus 66 to Paloheinä from Helsinki Railway station SIPOONKORPI NATIONAL PARK Bus 742 to Sotunki from Helsinki Railway station OUTDOORS.FI

UUTELA NATURE TRAIL Bus 78 from Vuosaari metro station ISLAND-HOPPING IN ESPOO ARCHIPELAGO: Waterbuses to the islands from local harbours VISITESPOO.FI

Suunnittelu: POOK Arkkitehtitoimisto Oy

MAINOS

Trendikäs, energiatehokas ja huoltovapaa tiili

Kestävä ulkoverhous tiilestä Ulkoverhousratkaisuna tiili on kestävä ja huoltovapaa. VTT:n tutkimuksen mukaan tiili on pitkällä aikavälillä vähiten huoltoa vaativa ulkoseinämateriaali. Elinkaarensa päässä tiili on vielä satojenkin vuosien jälkeen kierrätettävissä. Tiili sopii yhtä hyvin puu- kuin kivirunkoisenkin talon julkisivumateriaaliksi. Yhä useammat talovalmistajat mahdollistavat puun ohella myös tiilen valinnan ulkoverhousmateriaaliksi. Tiilen suosio on kasvamassa, mikä näkyy hyvin sisustuslehtien trendikkäissä sisustusratkaisuissa.

Tiiliverhous parantaa ääneneristävyyttä Harvoin talon hankintaa tehtäessä mietitään rakennuksen ääneneristävyyttä, mutta se on kuitenkin yksi olennaisimpia laatutekijöitä asumisessa. Tiilijulkisivu parantaa niin kivi- kuin puurunkoisenkin talon ääneneristävyyttä ja juuri siksi tiiliverhous valitaan ulkoverhousmateriaaliksi etenkin liikennemelualueille rakennettaessa.

Terca-tiilitalo – energiatehoa ja laatua vähällä rahalla Terca-tiilitalo on arkkitehdin suunnittelema yksilöllinen pientalo. Toimituspaketti voi sisältää pelkät materiaalit seiniin ja katolle tai talon valmiiksi rakennettuna. Terca-tiilitalo on mahdollista toteuttaa normaali, matala- tai passiivitaloratkaisuna. Tiilitalo koetaan usein puutaloa kalliimmaksi, mutta käytännössä hintaero on marginaalinen. Jo ensimmäisen maalauskerran jälkeen tiilitalo saattaa olla jo puutaloa edullisempi. Kun vielä otetaan huomioon tiilen energiaa säästävät ominaisuudet, on tiilitalo pitkällä aikavälillä taloudellinen rakenneratkaisu. Wienerbergerin Terca-tiilitalon runkorakenne varastoi talvella lämpöä aivan kuten tiilitulisijakin. Toisaalta kesäaikana tiilirakenteet pitävät talon miellyttävän viileänä. Tutkimusten mukaan massiivinen runkoratkaisu säästää energiaa jopa 14 % vuodessa. Myös pelkkä julkisivumuuraus alentaa TKK:n tekemän tutkimuksen mukaan energiankulutusta jopa 6–8 % lämmityskaudella.

Trendikäs sisustusratkaisu Tiili on nousemassa yhdeksi sisustamisen trendimateriaaliksi. Käsinlyödyillä Terca-tiilillä ja tiililaatoilla saadaan niin uuteen kuin vanhaankin kotiin uniikkeja yksityiskohtia. Sävyvaihtoehtoja on useita ja lopputulos on ainoastaan tekijän luovuudesta kiinni. Tiililaattojen asennus on suhteellisen helppoa ja alustaksi sopii kiviseinän ohella myös vankka-alustainen levypinta, kuten kipsilevy. Lisätietoa www.wienerberger.fi

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FINLAND HAS A RICH DANCING TRADITION FROM FOLKDANCES TO TANGO. NOW THE RANGE OF DANCE STYLES HAS WHIRLED DIZZYINGLY BEYOND THESE AS HUGE NUMBERS OF PEOPLE EMBRACE DANCING AS A PASTIME. HEREâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S OUR HELSINKI DANCE QUIDE. TEXT BY NINAROSE MAOZ

PHOTOS BY UZI VARON

E C N A DND THE A

Y T CI

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n the Nordic region, partner dancing traditionally conjures up images of rural romance: an outdoor dance floor on a lakeshore, the nightless nights of summer. In recent years, though, dance has become a vital part of Finnish urban culture. Even at Midsummer, when traditionally people fled the cities for the countryside, many in the past stay in town for dance events. Susa Matson, a dance instructor well known for her appearances on the local version of the Dancing with the Stars TV show, sees a clear reason for the dance boom. “Dance is a particularly popular hobby during economically shaky times,” says Matson. “Dancing makes you feel good and doesn’t cost a thing. It’s easy to start this hobby – for instance, you can just take a class at a local school. And you don’t need any fancy equipment: shoes are the only thing that a more advanced dancer needs.” Matson says anyone can learn to dance: it’s all about practicing. Some just pick it up more quickly

NOTHING FANCY REQUIRED – SHOES ARE THE ONLY EQUIPMENT THAT A MORE ADVANCED DANCER NEEDS.

than others. Still, it does take some work, so enthusiasm is essential. What’s most important in dance is the right attitude rather than know-how. Matson points out dancing can feel great even with a beginner if the mood is relaxed. On the other hand, an experienced veteran who dances with a grimace on his or her face and a fixation on the right steps can be a boring partner. So remember to enjoy yourself! HOT RHYTHMS AT THE OPERA A passerby rubs his eyes. It’s a Sunday evening and the loudspeakers in an amphitheatre behind Helsinki’s Opera House are pumping out Latin rhythms. Dozens of couples are dancing salsa, bachata and cha cha cha with their hips swivelling nimbly – even the men. Locals mingle with tourists, unified by a love for the rhythm. There seems to be plenty of love, and perspiration as well. Salsa is a fast dance style and a very effective form of exercise. Many seem too enthusiastic to rest for more than a moment at a time. Some sit on the amphitheatre seats while others spread out picnics on the lawn where kids romp and dance. “Salsa is an easy-going lifestyle made up of happy music and like-minded friends,” says Aki Suomalainen, who is an IT professional by day. “There are thousands of us salsa lovers in the Helsinki region.” Things were different a decade ago when Suomalainen was helping to set up the Helsinki salsa association. Back then it was just a small group of people

DANCE INSTRUCTOR SUSA MATSON’S DANCE ETIQUETTE TIPS REMEMBER to behave pleasantly. DRESS neatly. REMEMBER your personal hygiene – a clean aroma is enough. INTRODUCE yourself before the dance begins. YOU don’t need to say anything during the dance. Remember to thank your partner afterwards. YOU can decline to dance, but if you say “yes”, then dance until the end of the song – unless of course your partner is behaving inappropriately or is drunk. DON’T try to teach your partner. AT country dances, it’s customary to dance through two songs with the same partner; in salsa and other Latin dances, it’s usually just one dance at a time. In Argentinean tango, a tanda lasts three or four songs, after which you thank your partner. And if the dance goes smoothly, there’s nothing to stop you from carrying on.

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For Susa Matson, dance is both work and a pastime.

Dance is one of the best forms of exercise and a great way to forget your troubles. SUMMER 2014

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Helsingin Pavi 18 km Ooppera

Parliament House

Kuudes Linja Kaiku club Central Railway Station

Helsinki Cathedral Le Bonk club

OPERA SALSA Every summer Sunday starting at 6:30 pm. Free admission. The event is held weather permitting – although a few raindrops can be refreshing. SALSA.FI

LINDY IN THE PARK Dances at Opera House outdoor stage on Mondays 4 –7 pm, May 26 – August 11 Helsinki Lindy in the Park on Facebook WWW.LINDYHOP.FI

Dance instruction: COMETS.FI

WE LOVE HELSINKI DANCE EVENTS Several events annually, including Midsummer dances at Kuudes Linja and Kaiku club June 19 –21. Advance reservation recommended. Sunday dances at Helsinki Allas café June 29 – August 31, free admission FACEBOOK.COM/WELOVEHELSINKI/INFO

Summer iskelmä or Finnish hitsongs on LeBonk club’s rooftop terrace, May 26 – September 1, free admission. LEBONK.FI

TRADITIONAL DANCES AT PAVI IN VANTAA Well-known live performers attract dancers to Pavi every Wednesday, Friday and Sunday. On offer are the mainstays of traditional Finnish dance music such as foxtrot, tango, Finnish humppa and fusku, Swedish bugg, and often Latin dances as well. Admission is €9 –14. WWW.HKI-PAVI.FI/

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who danced to Cuban salsa. Since then many other styles of salsa and Latin dance have arrived in Finland – and nowadays there are salsa groups all around Finland, including the northern city of Oulu. The Opera House salsa parties started in the beginning of 2000s, quickly becoming an essential element of the Helsinki summer. “At first there were just a handful of couples here on Sunday evenings. Nowadays there are lots of people, sometimes as many as 500,” says Suomalainen. 1930S STYLE On Monday evenings the action at the Opera House outdoor stage continues, but Latin rhythms give way to swing dances from the early 20th century. Couples doing the Lindy Hop swing loosely under and around each others’ arms. Sometimes both take a leap or the female partner is tossed up in the air. The dancers practice indoors during the long winter, so they are eager to get outside as soon as the weather begins to warm up. “Of course it helps to learn the basics, but even beginners are welcome here,” says Minna Marttila, who co-founded this outdoor swing event. “Once a young Italian guy happened to come by and got excited about what we were doing. Now he tours the world attending Lindy dance events,” she says with a chuckle. Marttila has been an avid Lindy Hop dancer for about 15 years, with her hobby taking her as far afield as the US. “I was inspired by the weekly Lindy in the Park event in San Francisco, and then we decided to start a similar tradition in Helsinki. This is our tenth summer now,” says Marttila. SUMMER NIGHT ROMANCE Midsummer night. It’s around midnight, but you’d never guess it, as the summer night is still bright. There’s a long queue outside the Kuudes linja club in Helsinki’s bohemian Kallio district. Young women are dressed in flowery dresses, their hair combed up in ‘60s style. Men are nattily dressed in buttoneddown shirts and suspenders.

Helsinki Allas cafe

DANCE TRADITIONS Finland’s rural dancehall tradition dates back to the 1800s. In the post-war years, dancing gained unprecedented popularity. By the 1950s, dances were being held at thousands of dance venues and community halls. Many couples who married in those days met at local dance parties. Nowadays one in three Finns dances to some extent as a hobby. Along with traditional partner dances, more exotic dance forms have gained popularity, such as forró, zouk and West Coast Swing. Sources: Finnish Ballroom Dance Association and Dance in Finland

This Finnish disco night hosted by We Love Helsinki is packed with sweaty dancers. Classic Finnish tangos, twist, rock‘n’roll – anything goes as young hipster guys politely ask dames to dance. Nobody worries about dancing skills or styles here – although of course there are some dancefloor experts showing off their moves. According to event’s producer Timo Santala, these We Love Helsinki dance events were born out of love for Finnish hitsongs music: “I just thought about what I’d like to do myself at Midsummer: just get in the mood with great old music.”

We Love Helsinki regulars: Victoria Wolfram and Jaakko Laukkanen first met at a beginner’s dance class.

There’s standing room only at a gig by popular Cuban salsa band Los Van Van.

Taking a break from the dancefloor action at Pavi.

Anne Havu and Olavi Väisänen met at a dance 27 years ago. They were the Finnish champions of Argentinian tango in 2006.

When the first We Love Helsinki dance was held in 2008, the popularity of the event astonished Santala. People lined up for hours and many had to be turned away. The most popular holiday events, Midsummer, New Year’s and May Day, draw as many as 1,300 participants. What’s the secret of this success? “There was clearly a need for this,” says Santala. “There’s such an open atmosphere at the We Love Helsinki parties that anyone can ask anybody to dance. During the three minutes that the song lasts, there’s time to chat or get into a mood. If things seem to be clicking, you can continue on to the next song or, if not, just say thanks and walk away without any kind of embarrassing situation.” Dancing is also an easy way to get to know people. “There are romances starting all the time, and some people have even found that special someone on the dance floor,” says Santala, who recently DJ’d at several weddings of couples who met at WLH dances. By now it’s 3 am, and there’s a couple kissing passionately under the disco ball. Santala puts on another LP and murmurs into the microphone: “Stay together. This is a night for love. Half an hour from now when you leave, the sun will be shining. This is Midsummer night, the nightless night....” 60 BLUE WINGS

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LADIES TAKE THE LEAD More traditional dances are still held at rural Finland’s dance venues throughout the summer, with an atmosphere that has changed little since the 1970s. And you don’t necessarily need to go far from Helsinki for this kind of unforgettable experience. One classic dancehall is located right in neighbouring Vantaa. These country dances are no longer just the province of the middle-aged and elderly – they’ve been discovered by dancers in their 20s too. Hop, step, step, pause! Shoes thump on the wooden floor in time to a polka. After two songs, a gentleman escorts a lady back to her place and says thank you. It is typical at Finnish dances that women and men take turns asking a partner to dance. A lit-up sign on the wall indicates whether it’s the men’s or women’s turn – or time for a free-for-all sekahaku. Men arrange themselves in one row and women in another. After a moment of looking around, those whose turn it is head over to ask for a partner’s hand for the next number. If there’s no built-in sign, the bandleader announces whose turn it is. In the ladies’ room, there is a bustle of blow dryers and lipstick. Meanwhile the more active dancing men bring along a shirt or two to change into, and carry a handkerchief in their back pockets to mop up perspiration. Couples sway to the evening’s last waltzes as the summer night enters its twilight phase. The lyrics revolve around summer meadows and swallows. Now it’s time to forget winter. l

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THE BACKYARDS, CURVES AND CANALS OF THE CHAO PHRAYA RIVER, MEANDERING THROUGH THE THAI CAPITAL, PROVIDE A WELCOME CONTRAST TO THE CITY’S HUSTLE AND BUSTLE. TEXT BY MARKO PASANEN

PHOTOS BY ISTOCK, RIITTA SOURANDER AND GETTYIMAGES

SUMMER 2014

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hile it may be hard to picture Bangkok as a bikefriendly city, Arne Wilhelmson’s cycling tours are an eye-opening experience – even for those who know the city’s business centre well. This Swedish tour guide leads small groups – mostly Scandinavians – on morning and afternoon trips into lesser-known parts of Bangkok. The pace is pleasantly mellow. The route begins from the company’s office along the Chao Phraya River’s western bank and criss-crosses its hinterlands. Here fresh, verdant vegetation grows behind dwellings that range from humble to extravagant. People greet passersby cheerfully as big fish splash close to the riverbank. The excellent biking routes, discovered by Wilhelmson over the past decade, offer a safe and unusually close view of everyday life behind the city’s façades. These bike tours, roughly 20 kilometres in length, may also include visits to the workshop of a local blacksmith and two temples, the fantastic Wat Arun and the more intimate Wat Koh. The tour reaches an atmospheric end when participants load their bikes

into a longtail boat and float along the canals back to where the journey started. A LABYRINTH OF CANALS Bangkok was originally located in Thonburi, west of the Chao Phraya River, with waterways serving as its traffic network. The entire city is built on a marsh. There are still large, undeveloped areas remaining on the western side, fragmented by a dense network of canals. Boarding a longtail boat on the riverside allows you to admire the city’s imposing luxury hotels, palaces and administrative buildings. When the boat heads off the main river into the mesh of canals, meanwhile, you are likely to spot local kids jumping into the canals from the terraces of teak houses built on poles. Grown-ups cook, wash clothes and chat. And around the bend of a canal, you may suddenly come across a totally pristine patch of swamp with a single crane sitting atop a tree as the only sign of life. Warbling birds and a fresh breeze make it hard to believe you’re still within the teeming metropolis. The most famous attractions in this web of canals are the floating markets. These boat-borne plazas sell fruit and ready-made meals as well as handicrafts,

BANGKOK BY BIKE TAKES VISITORS INTO THE CITY’S HEART.

Asiatique night market features local crafts and design.

The peaceful nature of Wat Koh temple island is not ruined by tourists.

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Khlong Lat Mayom floating market is a well-kept secret.

textiles and decorative objects. One of the most popular ones is Taling Chan, a half-hour’s drive from the city centre and even closer by boat. Lesser-known, and more genuine, is Khlong Lat Mayom, bordering a narrow, idyllic canal. RIVERSIDE SHOPPING Back on dry land is the enormous Chatuchak weekend market, one of Bangkok’s best-known attractions.

Bangkok Tree House offers a room under the stars.

Recently it has gained worthy competition from Asiatique, an evening market near the Saphan Taksin Skytrain station on the Chao Phraya River, a short distance away by boat. Most of the merchants from the Suan Lum Night Bazaar, which closed in 2011, moved there, as did some from Chatuchak after floods that year. Trendy shops serve clients in splendidly restored historical warehouses, and like Suan Lum, the area

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CANAL TRIPS are available from nearly all major river quays. For instance the Oriental Hotel dock, the River City shopping centre and the quays near the Palace serve as handy starting points. Prices range from 1,000 to 2,000 bahts per person, with group rates available. THAICANALTOUR.COM

ASIATIQUE THE RIVERFRONT, 2194 Charoenkrung Rd., Wat Prayakrai, open daily from 5 pm to midnight. For a ferry connection from the Saphan Taksin station, take the south-westernmost exit and walk along the river, following the signs on the shoreline. WWW.ASIATIQUETHAILAND.COM/INDEX.PHP/TH

CHATUCHAK WEEKEND MARKET, next to the Mo Chit Skytrain station, open Saturdays and Sundays 6 am to 6 pm. CHATUCHAK.ORG

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Bangkok’s bike routes reveal a different side of the metropolis.

boasts a great selection of high-quality restaurants and bars. Asiatique is open nightly, and though you can reach it by taxi, a river trip is a more atmospheric option. There is a ferry connection from the foot of the Taksin Bridge, which you can easily reach from the Silom line Skytrain (Saphan Taksin). Asiatique opens at 5 pm, but the view is at its most beautiful about an hour later when the sunset gleams on the towers lining the river. JUNGLE IN THE CITY After passing the city centre, the Chao Phraya River takes a sharp turn east, coming quite close to the city’s main drag Sukhumvit road, and makes a lazy loop before running south toward the sea. The loop encircles Bang Krachao, an islet of nearly untouched jungle, crisscrossed by raised concrete pathways – perfect for short bike rides. The green islet features Bangkok Tree House, an ecolodge surrounded by greenery. The atmosphere is homey, and the quiet mangrove jungle and the bungalow-like building offer a welcome respite from the hectic city rhythm – despite being easily accessible by Skytrain. The Bag Na station is only a short way from the riverbank, and you can cross the river by ferry or take an express canoe straight to your hotel dock. l FINNAIR FLIES nonstop to Bangkok daily, during winter months up to three times daily.

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becomes heavier and thicker. You maintain your healthy hair”, says Oxford Biolabs CEO Dr Thomas Whitfield. Hair treatments often promise a lot without delivering, but TRX2 is backed by cutting-edge science and has been thoroughly tested. According to a study, TRX2 works for 87% of men and women. The results can be impressive - the average hair thickness increases 22.5% after nine months and 38.7% after 18 months. Start TRX2 as early as possible in order to increase the chances of fully regaining your hair. TRX2 is suitable for men and women of all ages. The crystalline white capsules come in a brown glass bottle,

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THIS MONTH AROUND THE WORLD WHERE TO GO, WHAT TO DO AND SEE COMPILED AND WRITTEN BY MIRVA LEMPIÄINEN

SUMMER SOLSTICE

GETTY IMAGES

While Finns celebrate summer solstice in the solitude of a lakeside cottage, in the UK it’s all about the old adage “the more, the merrier.” Some 20,000 people gather at Stonehenge, the 5000-year-old monolith collection, to stay awake all night on the longest day of the year. Samba bands and drummers help keep sleep at bay. June 20 WWW.EFESTIVALS.CO.UK/FESTIVALS/ STONEHENGE/2014

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THIS MONTH AROUND THE WORLD

Naked riders

World Cup footy

Ramadan in Dubai

Juggling in Ireland

Bicycle riders go for a spin in their birthday suits in various cities of the Northern Hemisphere, including Helsinki on June 12 and Brussels on June 21. The World Naked Bike Ride draws attention to the negative aspects of oil dependency while promoting a safer, body-positive world. The dress code is “as bare as you dare.”

After months of frantic preparations and billions poured into new infrastructure, all eyes are on Brazil. The games of the 20th FIFA World Cup football tournament will take place in 12 cities, with 32 teams competing for victory. Half a million tourists are expected to flock to the country that last hosted the World Cup in 1950.

The Ramadan Night Market shows the communal side of the month-long Muslim fasting period that starts on June 28. The market is open for the last 11 nights of Ramadan, filling the Dubai World Trade Centre with families. Kids play together while parents shop for food and gifts for Eid al-Fitr, the day of breaking the fast.

Circus folks meet in Millstreet, Ireland, for the 37th European Juggling Convention for workshops by famous performers and juggling legends. The general public can attend a large parade and the Juggling Olympics that include 5-ball or 7-ball endurance juggling and hula hoop racing. The EJC is the world’s largest circus event.

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THIS MONTH AROUND THE WORLD

Caribbean sailing The 30th annual Yole Boat Race of the French island of Martinique is part carnival, part showcase of spectacular seamanship. Each of the competing boats is constructed in the tradition of old fishing vessels, sporting brightly coloured sails. Thousands of spectators cheer on the shore while dancing to Caribbean rhythms. July 27 – AUGUST 3 MARTINIQUE.ORG/EVENTDETAILS/30TH-EDITION-MARTINIQUE-YOLES-BOAT-RACE-TOUR

Panama Canal Centennial The 77-kilometre Panama Canal celebrates its 100th anniversary. The $400 million (€293 million) engineering wonder offers a shortcut for 13,000 boats a year between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. Of the events taking place in honour of the centennial, the Third Set of Locks Project will have biggest impact: it doubles the canal’s capacity. August 15 100YEARSPANAMACANAL.COM

Japanese dances

Monsoon madness

Tokyo is alive with colour and energy on two August evenings: the 58th Koenji Awa Odori Festival brings together 10,000 dancers to perform traditional Japanese dances on the streets surrounding the Kōenji Station. More than a million spectators come to see the free three-hour show that features about 180 different groups.

The dry summer is prime time for music festivals in Europe, but in India this season is all about celebrating rain, nature and fertility. The OSHO Music & Meditation Monsoon Festival in Pune invites international visitors into its green surroundings. On the agenda are a morning live music meditation, painting and a food festival.

AUGUST 23–24 TOKYOCHEAPO.COM/EVENTS/ KOENJI-AWA-ODORI-FESTIVAL

August 11–15 OSHO.COM/VISIT/EVENTS/ FESTIVAL

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CULINARY DELIGHTS

ON SUNSHINE ISLAND BORNHOLM HOLDS A SPECIAL PLACE IN THE HEARTS OF DANES â&#x20AC;&#x201C; AND IN THEIR STOMACHS, TOO. TEXT AND PHOTOS BY TIM BIRD

SUMMER 2014

BLUE WINGS

Nikolaj Kirk is a TV chef with attitude.

Quaint cottages abound in Bornholm’s seaside villages.

Back to basics: cooking al fresco.

The cooking session culminates in a fabulous feast in a field .

his is the real Nordic cuisine. Never mind that other baby food in the fancy restaurants!” states Nikolaj Kirk, Danish TV chef with attitude. And I’m not going to argue with him. He has just taken a critical taste of my chicken salad – it needs more salt and a dash more lemon juice, he reckons. I don’t get his jokes in Danish but he clearly has some fairly strong views about food. Our cooking session takes place on a bright summer’s evening in a field on the Danish island of Bornholm and culminates in a fabulous al fresco feast. There are some 40 people seated at half a dozen picnic tables joined in a single row and decorated with wild flowers and herbs from a nearby copse. They have each paid 995 Danish krone (€135) for a ticket that includes the expert supervision of Kirk and his fellow chef and cookbook writer Mikkel Maarbjerg, along with as much food as they can eat when the meal is cooked, drinks, and a souvenir apron. “This 12-course menu has never been tried before,” says Kirk, a gleeful glint in his eye as he surveys the spread of salmon, salads, fresh vegetables, beef, pork, eggs and local bottled apple and rhubarb juices. The event is being held in connection with the annual Sol over Gudhjem – Sun over Gudhjem – one

74 BLUE WINGS SUMMER 2014

of the most prestigious gourmet competitions in Denmark. The agreeably peaceful little harbour town of Gudhjem is invaded with media and mainland tourists at this time, its quayside filled with a local produce market and the aroma of smoking fish. The ferries from Ystad in Sweden, the nearest port, to the Bornholm capital Rönne are similarly packed, suddenly swelling the island’s permanent population of about 46,000. Bornholm is an enchanting microcosm of the Nordic and the Central European, where spruce forests merge with oaks and historical references abound in the form of medieval round churches, windmills, cliff-top chapels and Iron Age burial mounds and rune stones. Closer to Sweden than Denmark in the southern Baltic, Bornholm was formerly under Swedish rule as part of the Skåne county and was briefly occupied by the Soviet army at the end of the Second World War. The lush rustic landscapes and glistening seascapes have a distinct historical heritage. They’re also the source of considerable culinary riches, from rapeseed oil, honey, and mustard to chicken, cod and rich blue cheese. These resources have inspired many innovative chefs, including those behind the award-winning Kadeau restaurant, a rising Copenhagen star – and the recent proud recipient of a Michelin star – whose spiritual home is in a revamped beach pavilion on Bornholm’s south coast.

BORNHOLM IS AN ENCHANTING MICROCOSM OF THE NORDIC AND THE CENTRAL EUROPEAN.

Fresh ingredients make a sumptuous midsummer feast.

SUMMER 2014

BLUE WINGS

Bornholm blossoms as midsummer approaches.

BEST OF BORNHOLM TRAINS RUN directly from Copenhagen airport to Ystad, linking with hydrofoil ferry services to Bornholm capital Rönne. Bicycles are available for hire at hotels and at rental shops in Rönne and other Bornholm towns. Typical price per day for a good 7-gear bike is 10 euros. For more info about cycling, events and attractions on Bornholm: WWW.BORNHOLM.INFO

THE SOL over Gudhjem 2014 will be held at the end of June 2014. Recommended accommodation: Jantzens Hotel in the town, and a kilometre or so to the east along the coast, the Melsted Badehotel B&B, which also features a superb gourmet restaurant: WWW.MELSTED-BADEHOTEL.DK

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NATURE CONNECTION

Denmark, with its clutch of Michelin star restaurants in Copenhagen, has emerged as one of the kingpins of world cuisine and some top chefs have jumped on the ferry to Bornholm, some competing, others to promote books and to network. It’s a chance for Bornholm to show off its considerable charm, as well as the gourmet world to step down from its pedestal. Top Copenhagen restaurants such as Noma and Geranium make great claims about reconnecting with landscape and culture through their menus and the Sol over Gudhjem competition is a great occasion to make that simple connection. As the crowd gathers in the competition tent, Rasmus Leck Fischer, a talented young chef, and Bornholm local boy and national park ranger Tino Hjorth lead a herbal walk through the nearby lanes, meadows and coastal dunes. Leck Fischer’s book “Ukrudt” – meaning weeds or herbs – is an elegant exploration of wild herbs that can be used in cooking, demonstrated with some simple but sumptuous recipes. The walk halts at a hop plant straggling over a garden fence. Leck Fischer guesses that the plant was originally cultivated here centuries ago for brewing, adding some eye-raising advice: “Boil the stem for a short time and it tastes like asparagus.” “Kids often ask: Where is the best place to find herbs, is it in the forest?” he says. “The answer is, not necessarily: the best place is often on the edge of the town, where people and nature meet.” That is also a neat summary of Bornholm’s multiple attractions, a surprising number of which are of the edible – or drinkable – variety. The typically quaint seaside town of Svaneke, a 20-minute coastal drive to the southeast from Gudhjem, is the eponymous home to the island’s own brewery. A premium brew aimed at a discerning market, the beers of Svaneke Bryghus come in a range of unfiltered but pasteurised bottled varieties, from

Talented young chef Rasmus Leck Fischer explores the use of wild herbs in cooking. Helsinki

Pohja Fiskars Mustio

Tammisaari Karjaa Billnäs

Pilsner and IPA to Ale and Choko Stout and was one of the first microbreweries in Denmark, a welcome David in a country (and world) of brewing Goliaths. APPETITE AND ENTHUSIASM Svaneke also hosts the tiny but prolific factory shop of the Lakrids company. Lakrids means liquorice and the brand was founded in 2007 and is still presided over by a young entrepreneur, Johan Bülow who talks about his product with undisguised appetite and enthusiasm. “It’s great to take on the world with new flavours,” he says, offering a tub of Afghan liquorice root powder for his visitors to sample. As well as the more conventional variety of sweet black confectionery, Lakrids includes chili-flavoured and chocolate-coated varieties along with powder for cooking and seasoning. This productive town has its own ice cream brand, too, now also sold at the Tivoli gardens in Copenhagen. But for this particular treat I head northwest, this time by rented bike, the best Bornholm touring option for those with time and energy. Bornholm is latticed with bike paths, dipping through valleys and winding close to cliff tops, skirting poppy fields and murky woodlands. The paths extend over 235 kilometres and even include a designated Gourmet Route covering the GjudhemSvaneke stretch. My own route takes me again along the coastal road to the northern tip of the island and the towns of Allinge and Sandvik. I reward my calorific output with a scoop of blueberry Mermaid ice cream the size of several fists. Suitably refueled, I hike through wild rose bushes in pungent flower, past the lighthouse on the Hammeren headland and round to the foreboding cliff-top Hammershus castle. On my bike again, I descend to the rocky shorelines, passing the distinctive funnels on the seaside cottages, extended chimneys used for smoking herrings. This fish is less abundant than it used to be in this part of the Baltic, but it remains the essential ingredient of Bornholm’s own signature dish, also called Sol over Gudhjem, and consisting of a raw egg yolk, smoked herring, chives and radish on rye bread. I return to Gudhjem in time to hear the results of the cooking contest. Kenneth Hansen, chef at the Svinkløv Badehotel in northern Denmark, has won the 40,000 krone (€5,400) cheque – one of the biggest prizes of its kind in the country. The crowd retreats to the beer terraces and seafood buffets, basking in the late afternoon sun. Bornholm is known in the rest of Denmark as “sunshine island” and today it’s living up to its reputation. l

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Ilmoitusmyynti: Oy Suomen Myyntitieto Ab | Mirja-Liisa Vuorenmaa | P. 09-7742 3316

Kentältä mukavasti kotiin

Park Alandia Hotell mukava hotelli Maarianhaminan ydinkeskustassa aivan lehmuspuistokujan vieressä. Hotellissa on 79 viihtyisää huonetta, ravintola, pubi, kokoustilat ja sauna sekä uimaallas.

Tervetuloa! Park Alandia Hotell Norra Esplanadgatan 3 22 100 Mariehamn

Puhelin 018 14130 Fax 018 17130 parkhotel@vikingline.com

www.vikingline.ﬁ/parkalandiahotel

tso lisää www.finlandiahotels.fi

KOTI MATKALLASI aidosti

erilainen!

• 1 hh alk. 49 €/vrk • 2 hh alk. 59 €/vrk • Tervetuloa! Kodikas Hotelli AVA sijaitsee rauhallisessa ympäristössä Helsingin Vallilassa. Hotellista on sujuvat yhteydet mm. ydinkeskustaan, Helsinki-Vantaan lentoasemalle ja Messukeskukseen. Viihtyisissä huoneissamme on langaton internet-yhteys, modernit taulutelevisiot elokuvakanavineen, suihkut ja osassa huoneista on jopa oma keittiö. Tyylikkäissä saunatiloissamme rentoudut päivän päätteeksi. Tarjoamme asiakkaillemme myös ilmaiset parkkipaikat. HOTELLI AVA | Karstulantie 6, 00550 HELSINKI | puh 09 774 751 | fax 09 730 090 | varaukset@ava.fi | www.ava.fi

ECONOMIC STRUCTURE Employed persons by industry, 4th quarter 2013

FINLAND IN FIGURES

MANUFACTURING Food prod. and textiles 14%

Construction and energy Miscellaneous services

FOREIGN TRADE 2013 EXPORTS BY PRODUCTS BY ACTIVITY: 55,903 MEUR (per cent of total)

14%

34%

20%

Forest industry prod

Other manufactured goods 24%

25%

Chemical ind prod

11%

Electric and electronics

Agriculture

16%

Other industries

IMPORTS BY USE IN 2013: 58,168 MEUR (per cent of total)

Energy Capital goods

Metal and engineering products 48%

Trade and hotel

Transport and communications

MONTHLY TEMPERATURES AND RAINFALL IN HELSINKI 2013 MEAN MAX MIN RAINFALL AVERAGE 1981-2010

Intermediate goods

Financial and business services

15%

10%

13%

Machinery and equipment

Forest products 14%

14%

Metals and metal products

Manufacturing

C 0 C 0 C mm

III

VII VIII

XII

-4,9 -1,8 -5,2 3,1 12,6 17,5 18,1 17,2 12,6 7,5 4,7 2,3 3,3 6,0 4,3 12,9 22,6 28,6 25,6 25,5 20,3 14,4 9,4 7,8 -22,6 -9,4 -18,4 -5,9 2,1 9,0 11,3 8,6 0,3 -3,1 -7,0 -10,3 80

Non-durable goods Durable consumer goods 0%

5% 10% 15% 20% 25% 30% 35%

EXPORTS AND IMPORTS (MEUR) TOTAL 2013 SWEDEN GERMANY RUSSIA USA NETHERLANDS CHINA GREAT BRITTAIN FRANCE

EXPORTS

55,903 6,477 5,411 5,354 3,559 3,463 3,170 2,898 1,767

IMPORTS

58,168 6,656 7,323 10,519 1,959 3,348 3,737 1,836 1,915

POPULATION 5.5 million, giving an average density of 18 people per sq. km of land area; annual growth rate 0.5% Life expectancy: men 77.5 and women 83.4 years. As in most other industrial countries, t he middle-aged groups predominate. Average household s ize: 2.1 persons. 54% of the households live in single-family houses; 44% in apartment b locks. 85% are urban-dwellers, with 1 million in the Helsinki Area, which includes Espoo and Vantaa.

FOR MORE INFORMATION ON CURRENT TRENDS IN FINLAND, SEE:

80 BLUE WINGS

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Other major cities in Finland include Tampere, Turku, Oulu and Jyväskylä. Languages: 89.3% speak Finnish; 5.3% Swedish. Religion: 75% are Lutheran; 1% Orthodox. Education: 81% of the popula tion aged 25 to 64 have com pleted upper secondary or tertiary education and 37h% (the highest percentage in the EU countries) have university or other tertiary qualifications.

AREA 390,920 sq. kilometres or 150,900 sq. m iles, of which 9% is fresh water; land area is 303, 909 sq. kilometres or 117,337 sq. miles. There are 188,000 lakes. 6% of the land is under cultivation, with barley and oats the main crops. Forests (mainly pine and spruce) cover 68% of the country. GOVERNMENT Sovereign parliamentary republic since 1917. From 1809– 1917, autonom ous G rand D uchy within the Russian Empire; before that part of the Kingdom of Sweden for centuries. The president is elected ever y six years. The new president of Finland, Sauli Niinistö took office in March 2012. The 200 members of Parliament are elected for fouryear terms. Finland has been a member of the European Union since January 1995. WORKING LIFE 80% of women aged 25–54 are employed outside the home. Average monthly earnings, 4th

quarter 2013: men 3,578 euros; women 2,963 euros. Unemployment rate 9.1%, in February 2014 according to Labour Force Survey. ECONOMY GDP 2013: 193 billion euros, the annual change in volume -1.4%. Annual inflation rate as of February 2014: 1.3%. Currency: Euro.

GROSS DOMESTIC PRODUCT PER CAPITA 2012* (EUR)

Nominal

Adjusted for Purchasing Power Standard

NORWAY 77,500 49,900 DENMARK 43,800 32,000 SWEDEN 43,000 32,800 USA 38,800 37,900 FINLAND 35,900 29,400 GERMANY 32,300 31,100 FRANCE 31,100 27,500 UK 30,500 28,400 EU27 25,600 25,600

Eurostat

Source: Statistics Finland

This is Finland at WWW.FINLAND.FI (English, Russian, Chinese, French, German, Spanish and Portuguese) News by Finnfacts at WWW.GOODNEWSFROMFINLAND.COM Findicator: WWW.FINDICATOR.FI

Tervetuloa / Välkommen/ Welcome / Bienvenue / Willkommen / Добро пожаловать / Tere tulemast / ようこそ / Bienvenido / 欢迎 / Benvenuti / Velkommen / 환영 / Witamy /

www.finnair.fi www.finnair.se www.finnair.com

www.finnair.fr

www.finnair.de

www.finnair.com/ru

www.finnair.ee www.finnair.com/jp

www.finnair.es

www.finnair.dk

www.finnair.com/cn

www.finnair.kr

www.finnair.it

www.finnair.fi/pl

Flying Finnair AUTOMATED BORDER CONTROL

BEFORE AND DURING THE FLIGHT

INFLIGHT ENTERTAINMENT

HELSINKI AIRPORT

MAPS

CORPORATE AND ENVIRONMENTAL RESPONSIBILITY

FLEET

FREQUENT FLYER BENEFITS

SUMMER 2014

BLUE WINGS

FINNAIR INFO HOW TO USE THE AUTOMATED BORDER CONTROL GATES

Place your passport with the info page face down on the reader. Please wait while your passport is being read for biographical and biometric data. When the scan is complete, the gate will open.

日本人で、ICパスポート（※）をお持ちの方は、2012年5月から試験的に、出入国審査場において自動化ゲートをご利用頂けます。ヘルシンキ空港のシェンゲンエリアから、日本に向けて出国される際にお使い頂くことが可能です。まず、パスポートの顔写真ページを読み取ります。該当ページを開き、読み取り機に向けて置いてください。こちらで個人情報と生体認証データを読み取ります。

Enter through the gate and turn right. Please remove your possible backpack and stand on the footprints on the floor. Remove your glasses and hat. Stand still and look directly at the screen keeping your face visible. The camera will compare your facial image with the biometric feature scanned from your passport. Wait until the second gate opens. The border check for EU, EEA, and Swiss nationals is completed when the gate opens. Third country nationals must now move towards the border guard, who will check your entry stamp and mark your passport with an exit stamp.

Smooth crossings

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二番目のゲートが開いたら、出入国審査官のカウンターにお進み下さい。パスポートの入国スタンプを確認した後、出国スタンプを押印致します。ご協力頂きまして有難うございます。 ※ ICパスポートとは、2006年3月20日から申請受付を開始したIC旅券、つまり冊子中央にICチップ及び通信を行うための。アンテナを格納したカードが組み込まれているバイオメトリック・パスポートのことです。

www.finnair.com/jp

대한민국 전자여권을 소지한 승객께서는 유럽에서 한국으로 입국 시, 헬싱키 공항에서 자동출국심사 서비스를 이용 하실 수 있습니다.

Have a nice journey!

ARRIVING AND DEPARTING passengers at Helsinki Airport can use the 30 automated border control gates. Fifteen of these are located in the departure hall. The Finnish Border Guard’s automated border control helps serve growing passenger volumes at Helsinki Airport. EU, EEA and Swiss nationals with biometric passports can take advantage of the automated border control gates. Third country nationals, who

ゲートが開いたら中に入り、右を向いてください。カメラで顔認証を行い、パスポートの顔写真と照合します。

are exempt from the visa requirement and hold a biometric passport, may also use the automated border control upon departure. The service is available for Canadian, Japanese, South Korean and U.S. citizens. The automated border control is monitored by a border guard ensuring secure border crossings. Please note that passengers travelling with an infant, baggage trolley or wheelchair must use the manual border control line.

우선, 전자여권의 사진 페이지를 인식장치에 올려주시기를 바랍니다. 이 과정에서 여권정보가 시스템에 자동 인식됩니다. 첫 번째 게이트가 열리면 안으로 들어가 오른쪽에 위치한 카메라로 안면인증을 거치게 됩니다. 이후 마지막 게이트에서 출입국관리 직원의 출국확인도장을 받으시면 됩니다. 보다 간편하고 빠른 본 자동시스템의 많은 이용 바랍니다. 대한민국 전자여권은? 2008년 8월 25일 이후 발급된 여권으로 표지 하단부에 전자칩과 안테나가 내장 되어 있는 여권입니다.

www.finnair.com/KR

FINNAIR INFO BEFORE THE FLIGHT

BEFORE DEPARTURE

Speed up your takeoff! CHECKING IN TO your Finnair flight is quick and easy. You can save time and reduce hassle by checking in at a self-service kiosk at the airport, online 36 hours before departure or by text message. Find out more about our check-in services at WWW.FINNAIR.COM. IN CASE A FLIGHT IS DELAYED OR CANCELLED, Finnair will make every effort to keep you informed via SMS or e-mail. Please make sure that you have provided Finnair with up-to-date contact details. Find out more information on flight disruptions at FINNAIR.COM/FLIGHTINFO.

Finnair in a nutshell • FINNAIR IS NUMBER ONE in air traffic between Northern Europe and Asia. • IN 2013, Finnair carried 9.3 million passengers.

Feeling hungry? FINNAIR OFFERS Economy Class customers on European scheduled flights the option to select and pre-order a meal to enjoy onboard. Choose from five delicious options: a fresh salad with smoked salmon, an all-day breakfast enchilada, beef burgundy, pasta bolognese and chicken korma with rice. The price of each meal is ten euros when purchased online. Go to WWW.FINNAIR.COM and select “My Booking” latest 72 hours before your flight. Choose a meal, and pay using a credit card. You will get a confirmation email and an EMD receipt. The pre-order meal is an optional, chargeable service available for Economy Class customers travelling on scheduled short-haul flights operated by Finnair and on AY2000-series flights operated by Flybe, with the following exceptions: flights within Finland, to/from Baltic countries, to/from Stockholm, to/from St Petersburg, to/from Dubai and Madrid-Helsinki return flights.

• CLOSE TO ONE AND A HALF MILLION passengers fly between Asia and Europe via Helsinki each year. • IN 2013, THE NUMBER OF PASSENGERS on scheduled flights totalled 8.5 million. Domestic travel accounted for 1.6 million passengers. Passenger total on leisure flights was nearly 768,000. • IN 2013, FINNAIR TRANSPORTED more than 146,000 tonnes of cargo. • ESTABLISHED IN 1923, Finnair is one of the world’s oldest operating airlines. • FINNAIR’S ROUTE NETWORK includes more than 50 international destinations.

SUMMER 2014

BLUE WINGS

FINNAIR INFO DURING THE FLIGHT

IN THE AIR

Welcome aboard! SAFETY

PERKS FOR KIDS

• Safety information is presented by the cabin crew at the start of each flight. This information is also listed on the safety instruction card in your seat pocket.

• Children are offered puzzles or colouring books on intercontinental scheduled flights and leisure flights.

• Safety belts must remain fastened when the “Fasten safety belt” sign is on. For safety reasons we recommend keeping them fastened even when the sign has been switched off. • Passengers may use MP3, CD or DVD players as well as laptop computers when the “Fasten safety belt” sign is off.

• Music and video entertainment is available on intercontinental scheduled flights and leisure flights. • On the Airbus A340-300 and Airbus A330-300 aircraft, games are available as part of the personal entertainment system. MEALS • Meals or snacks are served on most international flights. Pre-order meals are available for Economy Class passengers on most European flights. • Complimentary non-alcoholic beverages are available on scheduled flights.

ENTERTAINMENT • Inflight entertainment on intercontinental scheduled flights and leisure flights includes music, movies and an Airshow programme, which allows passengers to track their flight on a map. • On scheduled flights, headphones are available free of charge. On leisure flights, the entertainment fee includes headphones.

• Alcoholic drinks are for sale in Economy Class on European scheduled flights, except on routes to and from Riga, St. Petersburg, Stockholm and Tallinn. • In Economy Class on intercontinental scheduled flights we serve a hot meal with complimentary wine and beer. • On European and intercontinental scheduled flights, coffee, tea, juice and soft drinks are complimentary. • In Business Class all drinks are free of charge. On leisure flights, there is a charge for all beverages. • On flights to and from northern Finland, alcoholic beverages are sold after 9 am.

84 BLUE WINGS

SUMMER 2014

Inflight shopping • You may order products in advance from our large and affordable pre-order assortment at www.finnairshop.com. On most flights we also have onboard sales items. The selection varies by route. • Tax-free products, alcohol and tobacco are sold on aircraft flying to and from destinations outside the European Union. These include all intercontinental flights, as well as Ekaterinburg, Geneva, Moscow and Zurich. On flights within the EU, products are affordable but not tax-free. • Due to limited space onboard, alcohol and tobacco products are not for sale on flights operated with Embraer aircraft, but these products may be ordered through the pre-order service. • Gift items, cosmetics, fragrances and confectionary are sold on scheduled flights to and from the following destinations: Amsterdam, Barcelona, Berlin, Brussels, Budapest, Dubrovnik, Düsseldorf, Ekaterinburg, Frankfurt, Geneva, Hamburg, Ljubljana, London, Madrid, Manchester, Malaga, Milan, Moscow, Munich, Nice, Paris, Prague, Rome, Venice, Vienna and Zurich. • SHOP WITH POINTS Pamper yourself with Finnair Plus points at www.finnairplusshop.com

FINNAIR INFO INFLIGHT ENTERTAINMENT

This month´s inflight picks BW pick of the month

Movies

Movies, TV, music and games onboard SIT BACK, RELAX AND ENJOY your flight with your personal entertainment system. Use your handset or touchscreen to choose from 72 movies, 150 TV shows, 24 music channels, up to 200 CD albums and 15 games. From films to news and sports, there’s always something for you to enjoy, including programs from Hollywood, Asia and around the globe. Available language tracks include English, Japanese, Korean, Thai, German, French, Italian, Spanish, Swedish and Finnish, depending on the program, as well as Finnish and Chinese subtitles. We also offer family films and cartoons on all international and leisure flights. Selection may vary by aircraft type. You can also create a music playlist from up to 200 CDs (on select aircraft). Most entertainment systems also include a satellite phone for texting and emails, and a power outlet so you can use your own laptop computer or personal entertainment device. The system also offers an Airshow moving map that displays the progress of your flight.

Personal entertainment systems are available on Airbus A330 and Airbus A340 aircraft. Headphones are free of charge on intercontinental scheduled flights. On leisure flights (AY1000 series) there is an entertainment fee including headphone rental (on Boeing 757, €5.00 per person including return flight; on Airbus A330 and A340 aircraft, €8.00 per person per flight). Most Airbus A340 aircraft and all Airbus A330 aircraft are equipped with an electricity socket, telephone and the option to send SMS & email messages via the Inflight Entertainment System (not available for inbound SMS to the US or Canada). Messages cost $2.00 each. Calls cost $7.00/first minute and $3.50/ every 30 secs thereafter.

Entertainment/communication systems may vary by aircraft.

Hank and Asha An Indian student in Prague and a lonely New Yorker correspond online through video letters. A voyeuristic love story about aching for human connection in a hyper-connected world. (Rating PG)

The Grand Budapest Hotel The adventures of Gustave H, a legendary concierge at a famous European hotel between the wars, and Zero Moustafa, the lobby boy who becomes his most trusted friend. (Chinese Subtitles, Rating R)

Avant l’hiver Lucie believes her husband Paul - an older neurosurgeon - is having an affair, but the truth behind Paul’s strange behaviour is darker, and more complicated. (English subtitles, Rating NR)(Rating PG)

Mr. Peabody and Sherman Using his most ingenious invention, Mr. Peabody and his adopted boy Sherman hurtle back in time to experience world-changing events first-hand, but soon find themselves in a race to repair history. (Chinese Subtitles, Rating PG)

Radio

Music mixes on the fly NOKIA MIXRADIO offers a wide variety of music on Finnair’s long-haul flights. Mixes feature genres such as jazz and hip-hop and artists from regions including India and China.

Linsanity A documentary about Jeremy Lin, the world renowned NBA player who made headlines in 2012 by coming off the bench as an unknown, and lead the New York Knicks to a winning streak. (Rating PG) SUMMER 2014

BLUE WINGS

FINNAIR INFO BEFORE AND AFTER THE FLIGHT HELSINKI AIRPORT

TRANSFER SERVICE

32a

31x 31

31a-e 30

HOW TO TRANSFER • Check your gate and departure time on the airport monitors.

• If your baggage has not been checked through to your final destination, collect it from the baggage claim area and go to check-in and security control.

SHOP

Security control

Border control

LONG-HAUL AREA NON-SCHENGEN

• If you don’t have a boarding pass for your connecting flight, please contact the transfer service desk. • Most passengers transferring from nonEU countries to EU countries have to go through security and passport control. Please note that liquids are restricted in carry-on baggage.

SHOP

Borde contro

Transfer Service 3

2ND FLOOR 36 Finnair Tax-Free Shop

FINNAIR LOUNGE

AIRPORT SHOPPING

Finnair Plus members receive special discounts at the Finnair Tax-Free Shop when presenting their membership card.

• All Finnair and Flybe departures are located in the same terminal.

WIRELESS INTERNET is available free of charge. An eService Bar is located across from gate 21.

2ND FLOOR

37a-d

GROUND FLOOR

Border control

CHILDREN Children’s playrooms offer videos, microwave ovens and baby care facilities.

AUTOMATED BORDER CHECKS are available to passengers with biometric EU, EEA or Swiss passports. Place your passport on the reader with the photo page down, then pass through the first gate, turn towards the monitor, and wait for the second gate to open.

NON-SMOKING Smoking at Helsinki Airport is prohibited outside of designated smoking rooms.

SHOP SHOPPING Receive special offers for airport services when you show your Finnair Plus card. You will recognise our partners by the Finnair Plus symbol. Helsinki Airport features more than 30 shops and boutiques and various restaurants and cafés. 86 BLUE WINGS

SUMMER 2014

SHOP

LOST AND FOUND INQUIRIES, Lentäjäntie 1 (next to terminal T2, street level) Open Mon-Fri 09:00-17:00 and Sat 09:00-15:00. Tel 0600 41006 (1,97€/min +local network charge) WWW.LOYTOTAVARA.NET

CHECK OUT

THE LATEST FINNAIR PLUS TAX-FREE OFFERS ON PAGE 97.

SHOP

WALKING TIME GATE 24-30: 7 MIN

are closed for renovation from July 1 until the autumn. We apologise for inconvenience.

T2 29

FINNAIR LOUNGE AND LOUNGE 2 ABOVE GATES 23–26

Restaurant & Deli Fly Inn

FINNAIR LOUNGE 26

Finnair Tax-Free Shop

GATE AREA

Security check

er ol

CHECK-IN 240–270

CHECK-IN 201–232 SHOP

SHOP

25 Transfer Service 2

SHOP

Security check

Finnair Service Desk

GROCERY

SCHENGEN AREA

LOUNGE 2

SHOP

1ST FLOOR

Tourist info

Pharmacy

17 16

Transfer Service 1

CHECK-IN 101–114

Security check

Baggage storage

GROUND FLOOR

GATE AREA 12

2ND FLOOR

FINAVIA

SHOP BUS CONNECTIONS The Finnair City Bus to the Helsinki railway station leaves from Terminal 2 every 20 minutes, stopping also at Terminal 1. Travel time is about 30 minutes. Price: €6.30

1ST FLOOR

SUMMER 2014

BLUE WINGS

INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS FROM HELSINKI

Great Circle Estimated Distances Flight km Times

ALGHERO 2473 03:35 AMSTERDAM 1525 02:35 ALANYA/GAZIPASA 2722 03:45 AQABA 3494 05:05 ARRECIFE 4518 05:55 BANGKOK 7912 09:45 BARCELONA 2632 03:55 BEIJING 6325 07:55 BERGEN 1112 03:30 BERLIN 1123 02:00 BIARRITZ 2581 03:45 BILLUND 1060 01:50 BODRUM 2572 03:55 BRUSSELS 1651 02:40 BUDAPEST 1481 02:20 BURGAS 1982 03:00 CATANIA 2636 03:45 CHANIA 2756 03:50 CHONGQING 6736 08:40 COPENHAGEN 895 01:40 DALAMAN 2639 03:40 DELHI 5229 06:50 DUBAI 4537 05:55 DUBROVNIK 2027 03:00 DÜSSELDORF 1512 02:25 EKATERINBURG 2098 03:05 FARO 3480 04:45 FRANKFURT 1543 02:35 FUERTEVENTURA 4578 06:05 FUNCHAL 4310 05:45 GENEVA 1994 03:00 GOA via Sharjah 6739 10:15 GOTHENBURG 785 01:25 HAMBURG 1172 02:00 HANOI 7478 10:10 HÔ CHI MINH CITY (Saigon) 8510 10:50 HONG KONG 7821 09:35 HURGHADA 3743 05:05 INNSBRUCK 1701 02:35 IRÁKLION 2777 03:55 KAVALA 2159 03:15 KERKYRA 2331 03:25 KIEV 1171 01:55 KOS 2620 03:45 KRABI 8350 10:20 KRAKOW 1186 02:00 LANGKAWI 8560 10:25 LAS PALMAS 4700 06:10 LISBON 3369 04:50 LJUBLJANA 1713 02:40 LONDON 1863 03:10 MADRID 2950 04:25 MALAGA 3357 04:35 MANCHESTER 1817 03:00 MARSA ALAM 3932 05:10 MIAMI 8342 11:10 MILAN 1953 03:05 MINSK 740 01:25 MOSCOW 876 01:40 MUNICH 1577 02:30 NAGOYA 7780 09:40 NEW YORK 6626 08:45 NICE 2202 03:25 NORRKÖPING 530 01:30 OSAKA 7751 09:30 OSLO 766 01:30 OVDA 3457 04:30 PALMA DE MALLORCA 2777 04:00 PAPHOS 2898 04:00 PARIS 1900 03:05 PHUKET 8312 10:05

88 BLUE WINGS JUNE 2014

Great Circle Estimated Distances Flight km Times PISA PONTA DELGADA PRAGUE PREVEZA PUERTO PLATA RHODES RIGA RIMINI ROME SANTORINI SEOUL SHANGHAI SHARM EL SHEIKH SINGAPORE SKIATHOS SPLIT ST. PETERSBURG STOCKHOLM TALLINN TARTU TEL AVIV TENERIFE NORTE TENERIFE SUR TOKYO TORONTO TROMSØ VARADERO VARNA VENICE VERONA VIENNA VILNIUS WARSAW XIAN ZAKYNTHOS ZÜRICH

2093 03:20 4316 05:50 1322 02:10 2397 03:25 8417 11:15 2668 03:45 382 00:55 1993 03:00 2235 03:25 2660 03:40 7050 08:40 7410 09:05 3664 05:00 9272 11:30 2353 03:30 1956 02:55 301 01:00 400 01:00 101 00:30 245 00:50 3230 04:25 4691 06:10 4745 06:10 7849 09:45 6619 08:50 1081 02:00 8665 11:40 1911 02:55 1847 02:55 1903 02:55 1462 02:30 633 01:15 940 01:40 6421 07:50 2526 03:55 1781 02:45

SCHEDULED DESTINATIONS LEISURE DESTINATIONS PARTNER-OPERATED CODE-SHARE OR MARKETING DESTINATIONS SEASONAL ROUTE EW SCHEDULED N SEASONAL ROUTE NEW SCHEDULED DESTINATION IN 2014

Atl Oc antic ean

DOMESTIC FLIGHTS FROM HELSINKI IVALO JOENSUU JYVÄSKYLÄ KAJAANI MARIEHAMN KEMI/TORNIO KITTILÄ KOKKOLA/PIETARSAARI KUOPIO KUUSAMO OULU PORI ROVANIEMI SAVONLINNA TAMPERE TURKU VAASA

931 01:35 360 01:00 235 00:45 464 01:00 282 00:55 609 01:30 823 01:25 391 01:05 335 01:00 667 01:15 514 01:05 214 00:40 697 01:20 281 00:55 143 00:35 150 00:35 348 00:55

Bay of B isca ya

Arct ic

Ocea n

Nor weg ian S ea

Nort

h Sea

Rostov-on-Don

Medit erranea n Sea JUNE 2014

BLUE WINGS 89

Arctic Ocean FINNAIR-INFO WORLD MAP

Finnair Plus members earn Plus points from travelling on any scheduled flight with a oneworld airline.

Atlantic Ocean

Pacific Ocean

Ocea n Atlantic Ocean

oneworld: more than 800 destinations 90 BLUE WINGS JUNE 2014

Arctic Ocean

Taiwan

Pacific Ocean

Indian Ocean

JUNE 2014

BLUE WINGS 91

FINNAIR INFO CORPORATE RESPONSIBILITY

Society and the environment Finnair wants to be the number one choice for quality- and environmentally-conscious travellers. The airline collaborates with many environmental and humanitarian organisations, and invites its frequent flyers to participate in these efforts by donating Finnair Plus points. Here are a few other examples of Finnair’s societal involvement in a changing world:

• From 1999 to 2009, Finnair cut its carbon dioxide emissions per seat by 22 per cent. By 2017, it intends to reduce this number by another 24 per cent; total reductions per seat from 1999 to 2017 will equal as much as 41 per cent. Finnair supports the International Air Transport Association’s (IATA) goal of zeroemissions air travel by 2050, as well as a global emissions trading scheme. • Finnair flies one of the youngest fleets in the business. The average aircraft age is 9.9 years. Operating with new aircraft cuts back on fuel consumption and emissions by 20 to 30 per cent. The airline also flies the shortest routes between Europe and Asia via Helsinki, reducing fuel consumption. Passengers and cargo are carried on the same flights.

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• HOTT (House of Travel and Transportation), which houses Finnair’s headquarters near Helsinki, has received the esteemed LEED (Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design) Platinum international environmental certification. The system ensures that a construction project meets the strictest requirements for environmental efficiency. HOTT is owned by pension insurance company Ilmarinen, and Finnair is the primary tenant. • Finnair employees are offered continuous training and development opportunities. The company also conducts an annual employee wellbeing survey, participates in campaigns promoting equal treatment at the workplace, and places a strong focus on occupational safety.

SAFER TRANSIT FOR SMALL PATIENTS FINNAIR’S COLLABORATION with the Association

of Friends of the University Children’s Hospitals, a nonprofit charity organisation supporting development, research and patient comfort at five university children’s hospitals in Finland, dates back to 1995. The most crucial contribution to Finnair’s partnership is made by its frequent flyers, who donate Finnair Plus points towards flights for patients requiring treatment outside of their hometowns. The airline also supports the organisation’s efforts to raise funds towards the construction of a new children’s hospital in 2017. In addition, Finnair recently helped purchase a new transfer trauma mattress for the Helsinki Children’s Hospital as part of a staff fundraising campaign kicked off at Finnair’s 90th anniversary celebration in 2013. A trauma mattress helps keep a small patient steady in transit, thus providing essential help for those suffering injuries of the neck, hip or spine. “These types of fundraising projects are a natural extension of our collaboration with the Association of Friends of the University Children’s Hospitals. Although a new hospital is definitely needed, we can also help provide new equipment for the existing space,” says Kati Ihamäki, Finnair’s vice president of sustainable development. Visit pointshop.finnair.com to donate Finnair Plus points to a variety of charitable and aid organisations, including UNICEF and the Cancer Society of Finland.

FINNAIR INFO ENVIRONMENTAL RESPONSIBILITY

DID YOU KNOW? Between 1993 and 2013 the Association of Friends of the University Children’s Hospitals raised about 30 million euros. Finnair Plus member donations, meanwhile, have helped purchase more than 1,000 flights for patients who have to travel for treatments.

HOW YOU CAN HELP At pointshop.finnair.com, members of Finnair’s frequent flyer programme can donate points to the following organisations: ☛ The Finnish Association for Nature Conservation ☛ The Association of Friends of the University Children’s Hospitals

• Finnair prioritises recycling: designed to independently assess for example, the airline has and improve an airline’s environdonated cabin crew uniforms, mental management. Strongly blankets and other textiles to believing that, as with safety, the Uusix and GlobeHope, compawhole sector would benefit from nies that turn used materials a more systematic approach to into design items. environmental management, Fin• Finnair Group collaborates with nair is part of a pilot group of IATA environmental management member airlines participating in company Ekokem on waste the programme. management, including waste • Finnair is a member of United sorting, recycling and reuse. Nations Global Compact, a corpoMaterials such as cardboard, rate responsibility initiative that paper, plastic and metal are comprises more than 8,000 busirecycled at Finnair, while nesses. Participating companies hazardous waste is properly agree to make human rights, fair processed. Material not suitable labour standards, environmental for reuse is transported to responsibility and anti-corruption Ekokem’s facilities for energy core parts of their operations. production. • In 2011 Finnair signed the United • The recycling process begins Nations Women’s Empowerment onboard, where cabin attendPrinciples that encourage compaants sort the waste generated nies to promote gender equality during the flight. and women’s empowerment. The • In 2013 Finnair was certified principles are the result of a collabas a Stage 1 operator in IATA’s oration between the United Nations Environmental Assessment Development Fund for Women and Program (IEnvA), a new envithe United Nations Global Compact. ronmental management system

☛ The Cancer Society of Finland ☛ The Finnish Red Cross ☛ UNICEF ☛ The Baltic Sea Action Group ☛ Hope

FIND OUT MORE Finnair has published an annual overview of its sustainability efforts since 1997. The 2013 Annual Report – Finnair’s first to integrate sustainability indicators with financial reporting – measures and accounts for Finnair’s financial, economic, social and environmental performance and explains its impact on business results.

www.finnairgroup.com/ annualreport2013 BLOGS.FINNAIR.COM

SUMMER 2014

BLUE WINGS

FINNAIR INFO FLEET

AIRBUS A340-300 Number 7 Seating capacity 270/269/261 Length 63.6 m Wingspan 60.3 m Cruising speed 890 km/h Maximum cruising altitude 12,500 m AIRBUS A330-300 Number 8 Seating capacity 297/271/263 Length 63.6 m Wingspan 60.3 m Cruising speed 890 km/h Maximum cruising altitude 12,600 m AIRBUS A321 (ER) Number 11 Seating capacity 136–209 Length 44.5 m Wingspan 34.1 m Cruising speed 840 km/h Maximum cruising altitude 11,900 m AIRBUS A320 Number 10 Seating capacity 110–165 Length 37.6 m Wingspan 34.1 m Cruising speed 840 km/h Maximum cruising altitude 11,900 m AIRBUS A319 Number 9 Seating capacity 105–138 Length 33.8 m Wingspan 34.1 m Cruising speed 840 km/h Maximum cruising altitude 11,900 m EMBRAER 190 Operated by Flybe Number 12 Seating capacity 100 Length 36.2 m Wingspan 28.7 m Cruising speed 850 km/h Maximum cruising altitude 12,300 m EMBRAER 170 Operated by Flybe Number 2 Seating capacity 76 Length 29.9 m Wingspan 26.0 m Cruising speed 850 km/h Maximum cruising altitude 12,300 m

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FINNAIR PLUS PARTNER BENEFITS FOR FREQUENT FLYERS

Finnair Plus Partner Benefits this month: PLAY WITH YOUR POINTS You can now use your Plus points in Party Coins payment service to claim some of world’s best games and entertainment gift cards.Select the products of your choice in finnair.partycoins.me, log in to your membership account, confirm the redemption and get your prize immediately by email.

COUNTLESS BENEFITS FOR MEMBERS! NEW PARTNER

Kuva iStock

finnair.partycoins.me

NEW PARTNER

HOTEL DEALS Booking.com is the world leader in booking accommodation online. Booking.com offers over 440,000 properties in 200 countries. You can earn 1 award point per 1 euro for your stay as a Finnair Plus member. Use Booking. com hotel search button on Finnair's main website. finnair.com

NEW PARTNER

TICKET DISCOUNTS As a Finnair Plus member, you can get a special price on Lippupiste tickets for summer events in Finland. You can pay for your ticket purchases with either Finnair Plus points or by combining Plus points and money. The offers are valid for a limited time.

ACCOR HOTELS Now you can use your Finnair Plus points by converting them into Le Club Accorhotels points to pay for your stay in one of the 2,700 Accor participating hotels worldwide.

lippu.fi/finnairplus

finnair.com/pluspartners

Airlines Travel Credit Card Insurance Restaurants Shopping Wellness Golf Entertainment Charity Leisure time

MORE THAN 300 PARTNERS!

Not yet a member? Find out how to join on the next page ➝

More Finnair Plus offers: finnair.com/plus SUMMER 2014 BLUE WINGS 95

FINNAIR PLUS FREQUENT FLYER BENEFITS

Our Frequent Flyer Program

Join now and receive points for this flight! GET THESE BENEFITS • A head start on special flight sales • Exclusive members’ prices on offers • Earn and use points on Finnair, oneworld and partner airline flights • Earn and use points on numerous worldwide partner services EARN POINTS from both Finnair schedule and leisure flights. Points can be used to purchase award flights, pay for additional baggage and upgrade Finnair flights from Economy to Business Class. Points can also be earned and used for oneworld scheduled flights. AS A FINNAIR PLUS MEMBER YOU EARN points when purchasing products and services from any one of our Finnair Plus partners. The extensive partner network makes it possible for you to earn and use points even when you are not travelling. Products and services range from hotels, restaurants and car rentals to products purchased in the Finnair PlusShop, where you can place orders online.

Join using this QR code and get 500 extra points ➝

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

JOIN FINNAIR PLUS for free at finnair.com/plus or by filling out an application found as an insert in this magazine.

DO YOU HAVE A QUESTION? SEND IT TO US: PLUS.NEWS@FINNAIR.FI

1. I’m planning to rent a car in Spain. Can I use my Finnair Plus points?

2. I would like to use my points on a hotel stay. How should proceed?

Yes you can. You can rent a car from Europcar’s broad selection using your Finnair Plus points or a combination of points and money. For more information and booking details, visit europcar.com/ finnair. You can also use your points in Hertz, Avis and Sixt car rental stores.

Finnair Plus partner hotels include large international hotel chains and small local boutique establishments all over the world. Log in to your membership account at finnair.com/ pluspartners to claim an award voucher of your choice. You can pay using your Finnair Plus points or a combination of points and money.

finnair.com/pluspartners

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FINNAIR PLUS FREQUENT FLYER BENEFITS

Finnair Plus Tier benefits There are four Finnair Plus tiers: Basic, Silver, Gold and Platinum. Move to higher tiers by collecting tier points on Finnair or oneworld flights.

BASIC BENEFITS

SILVER BENEFITS RUBY

• C lassic and Any Seat flight awards • T ext message check-in for Finnair flights •P ayment for excess baggage charges with points •W aiting list priority based on tier •P lusShop and partner service purchases with points •D iscounts and points for partner services •P oints for credit card purchases

• All Basic level benefits • 10% points bonus on Finnair flights • Business Class check-in with Finnair • Priority Lane* security checks • One extra piece of baggage free of charge • Finnair lounge access when flying with Finnair • 10% discount on purchases made in Finnair Shops and on flights outside of the EU

GOLD SAPPHIRE

PLATINUM

Ch aged 2ildren join th −17 can e Plus JuFinnair progranior m!

EMERALD

• All Basic and Silver level benefits

• A ll Basic, Silver and Gold level benefits

• 1 5% points bonus on Finnair flights • C onfirmed seat 48 hours before Finnair flights (European or intercontinental for Business Class, intercontinental for Economy Class)

• 2 5% points bonus on Finnair flights

MOVE TO HIGHER TIERS 40,000 tier points or 24 scheduled flights*

•N o expiration of points during tracking period • Oneworld First Class check-in and lounge access

•D • Priority Lane* security iscounted travel checks upgrades for family members • T ravel class upgrades for Finnair flights • Special baggage free of charge on Finnair flights • Oneworld Business Class and Frequent Flyer lounge access + 1 guest

90,000 tier points or 54 scheduled flights*

150,000 tier points or 92 scheduled flights* * Finnair and other oneworld scheduled flights

* For example: Helsinki, Stockholm-Arlanda

More Finnair Plus information: finnair.com/plus

Did you know? THE MAGNIFICENT Ferris wheel that opened in Helsinki this spring has been named the Finnair Sky Wheel. Finnair Plus members receive 25% discount on rides (member price €9, normal €12). You also have the opportunity to ride in a VIP gondola equipped with glass floor and leather seats. The €195 price includes Veuve Clicquot champagne.

Check out this month's member shopping offers on the next page ➝

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FINNAIR PLUS PLUSSHOP

Finnair PlusShop offers The online Finnair PlusShop stocks more than 3,000 items and delivers around the world. Pay with Finnair Plus points, money or a combination of both. Items are shipped to your home or to your nearest post office.

Regular price €239 Member offer €169 + 1,000 Finnair Plus points

SODASTREAM PLAY SODA MAKER SAMSONITE S'CURE SPINNER SUITCASE (75 CM) + TWO PAIRS OF FLIP-FLOPS

Special prices on the entire S'Cure series.

VILLEROY & BOCH MARIEFLEUR COLLECTION –20%

€24,90, Coffee cup & saucer Member offer €19,90 + 1,000 points

€99,85, with 12-pack of flavours Member offer €79 + 1,000 points

MARJA KURKI COTTON SCARVES

€75/65, two different prints, several colour options Member offer €55 + 1,000 points

TTTM KING SIZE MOONHAMMOCK

€84,80, with rope bag, two colour options Member offer €59 + 1,000 points

PRICES SUBJECT TO CHANGE.

Shop online: www.finnairplusshop.com 98 BLUE WINGS

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FINNAIR PLUS PLUSSHOP

Finnair PlusShop offers

ARTEK TEA TROLLEY 901

€1,810, black or white Member offer €1,200 + 1,000 points

THE HOUSE OF MARLEY

€109, Marley Liberate on-ear headphones or Marley Chant Bluetooth portable wireless speaker Member offer €79 + 1,000 points

Member offer €489 + 1,000 points

LION SABATIER STEAK KNIVES

SUUNTO AMBIT2 R (HR) SPORTS WATCH

PEUGEOT CLERMONT MILL SET

€65,40, six pcs Member offer €35 + 1,000 points

€300, black and white Member offer €229 + 1,000 points

€79,80, salt & pepper, 24 cm Member offer €49 + 1,000 points

MARIMEKKO UNIKKO BEACH TOWEL

€64, several color options Member offer €49 + 1,000 points

SAMSUNG GALAXY K ZOOM SMARTPHONE WITH PROTECTIVE COVER, €529

PRICES SUBJECT TO CHANGE.

Shop online: www.finnairplusshop.com SUMMER 2014 BLUE WINGS 99

CROSSING THE GLOBE IN TWO SECONDS.

Grande Reverso Ultra Thin Duo. Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 854/1. Two dials driven by a single movement: for the very first time, the iconic Reverso reveals a second face within its ultra-thin case. It combines two back-to-back dials to offer its owner a fascinating journey through time. A refined blend of style and watchmaking performance stemming from 180 years of expertise cultivated by the Inventors of the VallĂŠe de Joux.

YO U D E S E RV E A R E A L WATC H.