Blue Wings Nordic issue summer 2015 by Finnair_BlueWings

NORDIC ISSUE TRENDS, DESTINATIONS AND INSIGHTS FOR TRAVELLERS

SUMMER 2015

Your personal copy

VOYAGE THROUGH

CHINA’S WATERWAYS TOP 5

DESIGNERLY SWEDEN BRINGING SIBELIUS TO JAPAN

Finland’s ultimate

fishing chase

The Art of Expression amore · design björn weckström

EDITORIAL

HEAD OFFICE FINLAND CONTENT DESIGNER Amanda Soila VISUAL DESIGNER Sirpa Ärmänen

MIKKO HANNULA

WWW.FINNAIR.COM

BY ARJA SUOMINEN SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, COMMUNICATIONS AND CORPORATE RESPONSIBILITY

SUB-EDITOR Shelly Nyqvist ENGLISH EDITING Silja Kudel REPROGRAPHICS Faktor Oy ON THE COVER Fish Marathon by Ville Palonen BEHIND THIS ISSUE Daniel Allen, Tommi Anttonen, Simon Fry, Laura Iisalo, Helen Korpak, Silja Kudel, Mirva Lempiäinen, Jorma Leppänen, Ville Palonen, Katja Pantzar, Hernan Patiño, Anu Piippo and Mikko Takala SUBMISSIONS bluewings@headofficefinland.fi BLUE WINGS ONLINE www.issuu.com/headofficefinland EDITORIAL OFFICES Porkkalankatu 20 A, 00180 Helsinki, Finland, Postal address P.O.Box 100, 00040 Sanoma, Finland, tel. +358 9 1201, firstname.lastname@headofficefinland.fi ADVERTISING SALES Media Assistant Sirkka Pulkkinen tel. +358 9 120 5921 PUBLISHER Head Office Finland PRINTED BY Hansaprint, Turku, Finland 2015 PAPER UPM Valor 61g Cover paper Stora Enso LumiArt 200g CIRCULATION 100,000 ISSN-0358-7703

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Arja Suominen arja.suominen@finnair.com FINNAIR HEAD OFFICE Tietotie 9 A, Helsinki-Vantaa Airport, 1053 Finnair, Finland, tel. +358 9 81881, Postal address: P. O. Box 15, 01053 Finnair, Finland CUSTOMER FEEDBACK www.finnair.com > Information and services > After the flight or by mail: Customer Relations, SL/08, FI-01053 FINNAIR. www.finnair.com, www.finnair.fi www.finnairgroup.com

The Nordic experience

n a recent visit to Koko, a lovely small jazz club in Helsinki, I was truly impressed by the dedication of Timo Hirvonen and Anna Veijalainen, the young couple who own and run the club. They are ambitious and uncompromising when it comes to music: they simply want people to hear the best jazz in the city. With many domestic performers, Koko also has a growing number of internationally renowned visitors who have fallen in love with the club’s cosy atmosphere. We at Finnair share the same goal as Koko: we want to offer our customers around the world the best possible experience. As such, we continuously develop our

services to meet and exceed expectations. Even before you touch down in Finland, on board we introduce you to the Nordic way of life with an array of delights ranging from award-winning cuisine to our state-ofthe-art fleet – in the autumn we will start flying the new Airbus A350 XWB planes as the first European airline to do so. (You can read more about these leading-edge planes on pages 59 and 93.) Whether you’re en route to Asia or Europe, Finland has a lot to offer travellers this summer – this issue of Blue Wings is dedicated to the Nordics and packed with ideas and insider tips on where to go and what to do. Wishing you an inspirational journey, Arja Suominen

My 3 tips:

For excellent information and advice on visiting Finnair’s homebase, check out Visit Finland: visitfinland.com

Finnair (@FeelFinnair) is now on instagram.com

I love Marimekko’s new pink duvet covers and towels. See more on page 97.

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BLUE WINGS

MARKKINOIDEN

TEHOKKAIN

MAALÄMPÖPUMPPU *Uuden tiukemman EN14511 standardin mukaisesti testattu

COP5

MENOVESI

Sijoittamalla 1€ sähköenergiaa lämpöpumpulle se tuottaa 5€ edestä lämmitysenergiaa! Eli 4€ on ilmaista ja uusiutuvaa energiaa omasta maasta.

COP5 pumpuilla toteutettuja esimerkkisäästökohteita: ENNEN

3300 €

NYT

967 €

ENNEN

6050 €

NYT

1350 €

ENNEN

2970 €

Stiebel Eltron:in tunnuslukuja: NYT

668 €

SÄÄSTÖ / vuosi

2333 €

4700 €

2302 €

PYHÄSALMI, rv. 1969 KOKO: 116 m2

AURA, rv. 1920 KOKO: 330 m2

Lähes 40 vuoden kokemus lämpöpumpuista Lämpöpumppujen tuotantokapasiteetti yli 50.000 kpl/v Yli 130 erilaista lämpöpumpputuotetta Päätuotantolaitoksen koko 135 000 m² 5 eri tuotantolaitosta Toimituksia 120 maahan

KUOPIO, rv. 2005 KOKO: 170 m2

MAAHANTUOJA Stiebel Eltron Oy, Kapinakuja 1, 04600 Mäntsälä Puh. 020 720 9988, info@stiebel-eltron.fi

www.energiapakkaus.fi www.stiebel-eltron.fi

IN THIS ISSUE

The Fish Marathon is dubbed Finland’s most challenging angling competition.

SUMMER 2015 26

LIFETYLE FISHING AROUND THE CLOCK Who gets Finland’s biggest catch in 24 hours?

DESTINATION STEAM AND GLORY

Cruising the Saimaa waters on an old-time steamboat

TOP 5 SWEDISH DESIGN CLASSICS

Meet brands that combine history with a fresh twist

DESTINATION SAILING THROUGH CHINA Discover the secrets of the Yangzte River

LIFESTYLE BRILLIANT IDEAS Four old-time steamboats still ply the waters of Lake Saimaa.

Lighting up city planning, wellbeing and design

CULTURE SIBELIUS: BIG IN JAPAN

What’s the secret of successful cultural exporting?

DESTINATION COASTAL PORVOO

See the lesser-known side of the Finnish archipelago

FOOD THE RETURN OF SMØRREBRØD Rethinking the classic Danish treat

TAKEOFF Design store Svenskt Tenn in Stockholm doubles as a tea salon.

NEWS

The most unusual saunas......... 12

SPORT

Manchester’s Hotel Football...14

DESTINATION

WORLD

Aquatic games in Kazan ...........22

FINLAND

Chinese art in Helsinki ..............24

Sustainable Stockholm ............16

FOOD&DRINK

Artisanal ice creams.................... 18

DESIGN

Tapio Wirkkala jubilee ...................20

Tapio Wirkkala’s designs.

SUMMER 2015

BLUE WINGS

IN THIS ISSUE

Tapio Rosenius makes his mark on lighting design.

The cruises on China’s Yangtze River pass through the Three Gorges – a trio of spectacular canyons.

Copenhagen’s Schønnemann is known for its extensive menu of smørrebrød.

REGULARS

Travel moment............................................ 8

Alexander Stubb.....................................34 Sixten Korkman.......................................60 Finnair news..............................................72 Finland in figures.................................... 98

FLYING FINNAIR

Tips for takeoff........................................ 80 Inflight wellbeing.................................... 81 Entertainment.......................................... 82 Shopping..................................................... 83 Sustainability............................................. 84 Border crossings..................................... 85 Helsinki Airport ....................................... 86 Maps and destinations......................... 88 Fleet.............................................................. 92 Frequent flyer benefits........................ 94 6 BLUE WINGS SUMMER 2015

Lapland, p. 12 Manchester, p. 14 Stockholm, p. 16, 42 Helsinki, p. 18, 24, 26 Kazan, p. 22

Saimaa, p. 42 Chongqing, p. 48 Japan, p. 63 Porvoo, p. 70 Copenhagen, p. 74

TRAVEL MOMENT BY VILLE PALONEN

FINNISH ON TOP ROCK CLIMBER Jimi Ansio belays Ulrika Uotila on a route called “Ruotsalaisten reitti” on Olhava cliff, a near perpendicular rock face at 50 metres high. Located in Repovesi National Park, a couple of hours drive from Helsinki, Olhava is regarded as

8 BLUE WINGS SUMMER 2015

the rock climbing mecca of Finland. “From a climbing point of view, Olhava is the best Finland offers,” says Ansio. “It’s an all-encompassing place — you don’t go there just for climbing, a trip to Olhava is all about spending quality time in nature.”

SUMMER 2015

BLUE WINGS

TAKEOFF

NEWS / SPORTS / DESTINATION / FOOD AND DRINK / DESIGN / WORLD / FINLAND

HELSINKI

Fabulous gymnastics PHOTO BY FRANCOIS SCHWEIZER

SOME OF THE WORLD’S best gymnasts descend on Helsinki this July as the 15th World Gymnaestrada brings 21,000 participants to the Finnish capital. Held in Finland for the first time, the event features gymnastic varieties from acrobatics to dance and embraces performances from amateurs and top athletes. In addition to the large spectacles held in the main venues, the line-up also includes a number of free city performances held on smaller stages around town. Gymnaestrada 2015, Helsinki July 12–18 wg-2015.com

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BLUE WINGS

TAKEOFF NEWS

PEAK CONNECTION Finnair flies daily during the summer months to Kittilä, about 40 kms from Mount Ylläs, and to Rovaniemi, about 170 kms from Ylläs, four times daily year-round.

COMPILED AND WRITTEN BY MIRVA LEMPIÄINEN

The sauna gondola at Mount Ylläs in Finnish Lapland takes you for a steamy ride in a four-person ski lift.

WELLBEING

Steamy surprises SOME SAUNAS are simply a notch above the rest. Hotels.com has listed some of the world’s most unusual saunas, one of which is found at Mount Ylläs in Lapland. The world’s only sauna gondola takes you for a steamy 20-minute ride up and down the mountain in a four-person ski lift – mercifully equipped with one-way windows. Germany, meanwhile, is home to the world’s largest sauna. Located inside the giant Thermen & Badewelt Sinsheim spa complex, its long wooden benches accommodate up to 166 patrons. As an added eyebrow-raiser, the sauna shares a window with a huge aquarium. Visitors to the Terme Milano Spa in Italy are in for a hot ride if they dare to

enter the historic tram parked in the spa garden. Inside the 1928 streetcar is a wooden sauna complete with a real Finnish hot-coal heater. The best time to gaze out of the tram windows is at night, when the garden is lit up with sparkling lights and video projections. Sweden’s Klädesholmen in turn boasts the world’s fastest floating sauna, while Teugen airport in Netherlands is home to a sauna installed in a former GDR plane converted into a luxury hotel in 2009. Yllas.fi/en/yritykset/tuotteet/ sauna-gondola Badewelt-sinsheim.de Termemilano.com

HELSINKI

Summer summit

FINLAND’S WHITE nights make it all too easy to forget the world’s cares, but exactly the opposite is slated to happen at the biannual Northern Light Summit in Helsinki. The European Business Leaders Convention (EBLC) is a thinktank initiated in 2003, bringing together more than 100 European and Russian business leaders, politicians and experts to discuss Europe’s challenges. This year’s theme is “The scary new world: How to do business in a world without order?” The EBLC will delve into hot-button topics including Islamic State, Russia, The Internet of Things, the US elections and the stagnation of the euro zone. Confirmed participants include Finland’s former prime minister Alexander Stubb, Sir Win Bischoff of JP Morgan Securities and Victor Vekselberg of the Skolkovo Innovation Center in Russia. The invitation-only summit will be held at the scenic Hilton Helsinki Kalastajatorppa hotel. eblc.org

UNTO RAUTIO

ACCESSORIES

Totin’ it up SUMMER IS all about picnics in the park, impromptu road trips and days at the beach – all of which require a durable tote bag. Suitable arm candy can be found in the Matkaaja travel bag series by Finnish

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design company Saana ja Olli, created by a young couple from Turku. All products are made of 100 per cent hemp textile and manufactured locally. Prices start at €39. Saanajaolli.com/matkaaja-en

TAKEOFF SPORTS

GAME BREAK Finnair flies twice daily to football city Manchester.

COMPILED AND WRITTEN BY SIMON FRY

WATCHES

Sporty summer Be ready for a winning workout with these recently-launched, stylish, sporty watches.

SWIMMO IS THE first smartwatch created with pro and casual swimmers in mind, tracking distance, pace, heartrate and calories burned. It has no buttons and communicates with vibrations.

Hotel Football is a new footballthemed hotel and restaurant beside Manchester United’s Old Trafford.

HOTEL

Footy dreams MANCHESTER TAKES the football experience to a new level with the recently opened 133-room Hotel Football. Founded by former United players Ryan Giggs, Paul Scholes, Nicky Butt and brothers Phil and Gary Neville, the four-star hotel overlooks Manchester United’s 76,000-seat Old Trafford ground 40 metres away. “Throughout the closing years of my playing career, I always had one eye on what to do next,” says Gary Neville. “Both Ryan and I have been lucky enough to experience some of the world’s best hotels and restaurants and we wanted to use our

GEAR

Snazzy sneakers

THESE RUNNERS are the latest collaboration between 99-year-old Finnish sports brand Karhu and the Moomins. Based on Karhu’s Albatross shoe silhouette, the 2015 versions come in two colourways with a cheerful Moomin print. (€100) karhu.com

14 BLUE WINGS SUMMER 2015

swimmo.com

experience to create something completely unique.” All executive rooms and half of the standard ones come with a view of the Old Trafford while the artwork throughout depicts the beautiful game, via images of icons such as Pelé, David Beckham and Diego Maradona. Facilities include a top-storey Astroturf football pitch, a ground level Café Football restaurant (London’s Westfield Stratford City has a sister operation) and a basement sports bar. hotelfootball.com

THE NEWLY LAUNCHED Apple Watch also comes in sporty collection featuring a lightweight anodised aluminium case with a Retina display protected by strengthened Ion-X glass. The matching high-performance fluoroelastomer sport band comes in five colours. apple.com SUUNTO’S AMBIT3 Run smart Bluetooth®enabled GPS watch combines style and functionality. A running partner, coach and guide, it lets you plan, progress and recover more efficiently. Suunto.com/ambit3

ASTRON. THE WORLD´S FIRST GPS SOLAR WATCH.

By connecting to the GPS net work, the new Astron adjusts at the touch of a button to your time zone* and, by taking all the energy it needs from light alone, never needs a battery change. *Time zone data as of January 2014. Time zone can be also manually adjusted as required.

Laatukoru

Helsinki- Espoo- Vantaa- Hyvinkää- Riihimäki- Lahti- Lappeenranta- Tampere

TAKEOFF DESTINATION

TRAVEL TIP One of the fastest and most climatefriendly ways to travel from Arlanda Airport to Stockholm city centre is via the Arlanda Express train. arlandaexpress.com

COMPILED AND WRITTEN BY KATJA PANTZAR

DESTINATION

CLOTHING

Jean genie

HIP SWEDISH CLOTHIEr Nudie Jeans started upcycling old jeans into housewares such as rag rugs and sofa covers a few years ago. Now, its Nudie Jeans Repair Shops – with locations around the world from Harajuku in Tokyo to Shoreditch in London – will repair Nudie Jeans for free in an effort to keep old jeans out of landfills. Nudie Jeans repair shop Jakobsbergsgatan 11, Stockholm nudiejeans.com

MATS HÅKANSON

David Taylor’s Slag candlesticks are formed from iron found in the forest.

16 BLUE WINGS SUMMER 2015

Sustainable Stockholm AS SWEDEN IS one of the world’s recycling leaders – less than one per cent of household waste ends up in garbage dumps – the Swedish capital boasts an inventive array of upcycling. Kumvana Gomani is one of a growing number of Swedish designers who employ recycling, sustainability, and fair trade practices that help local producers in developing countries. “I lived in Malawi, Africa, as a child so the idea of being sustainable – always upcycling – was a given and something I have done all my life,” says Gomani. Her creations range from sparkly snowflake earrings made from reused plastic bottles to colourful necklaces made together with local artisans in Cambodia. Gomani also collaborates with other design companies to help them produce sustainable and ethical collections such as the Upcycled Landmine Jewellery series. “The pieces are made using metal from

Lost and found

LOCATED IN the Södermalm area of central Stockholm, Konsthantverkana is the country’s oldest and largest handicraft co-operative with changing exhibitions and a gallery shop full of lovely takeaways such as these Slag candlesticks made by Scottish-born Stockholmbased David Taylor, who creates

Kumvana Gomani’s jewellery takes upcycling to the next level.

landmine and UXOs (unexploded ordinances) in Cambodia that have been safely neutralised and all the gunpowder removed before being passed on to our partner workshops who remake them into beautiful pieces of jewellery,” says Gomani. kumvanagomani.com Kumvana Gomani’s jewellery is available in Stockholm at Design Torget shops (Sergelgången 29, St Eriksgatan 45, Nybrogatan 16, Kungsgatan 52 and Götgatan 31). designtorget.se

Kumvana Gomani’s designs employ recycling, sustainability and fair trade practices.

products from found objects. They were made from pieces of iron found at the site of an abandoned iron foundry dating back to the 1600s in the Swedish woods. Konsthantverkana, Södermalmstorg 4 konsthantverkarna.se

Driving in Finland? You can now fill up your car with diesel that stems from the Finnish forest. UPM BioVerno is suitable for all diesel engines. An award-winning, thoroughly tested renewable diesel that cuts down greenhouse gas emissions.

Powered by UPM BioVerno UPM is the frontrunner of the new forest industry. UPM BioVerno is based on UPMâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own innovations. It is derived from tall oil, a residue of our pulp production. UPM BioVerno is produced in Finland completely outside the food value chain. UPM BioVerno is now available from St1 and ABC service stations. More fuel for thought at www.upmbiofuels.com

#UPM #BioVerno

TAKEOFF FOOD & DRINK

SPARKLY SALES Get ready for summer celebrations with some bubbly and check out Finnair shop’s seasonal sale! All pre-order products are discounted by 15% from June 15 to July 31. www.finnairshop.com

COMPILED AND WRITTEN BY ANU PIIPPO AMANDA SOILA

BEER

Summer of craft beers

Finnish beer expert Mikko Salmi shares his top three Finnish beer picks for the summer season. The first can be purchased in large retail stores, the two others in Alko outlets.

One of the founders of Jädelino ice cream bar, Tiina Karhu (middle), takes a gelato break with her daughters.

ICE CREAM

The coolest trend WHAT HAPPENS if you take a photographer, a chef, an advertising whiz and two organic dairy farmers, and ask them to come up with a cool new food hit? The answer is organic Jymy ice cream, sold in smartly designed black tubs. “We wanted to make the best possible ice cream for people who are just like us: ice cream gourmands,” says Horst Neumann, photographer and managing director of the company behind Jymy. Launched only last September, Jymy is already selling up a storm. Both consumers and the media seem to love the idea of a small family farm sending organic milk daily to a nearby ice cream factory that was once home to Finland’s famous Sisu liquorice. The Jymy ice cream family

has newly expanded from five flavours to seven – aptly including liquorice. Jymy is not alone: artisanal ice cream factories seem to be popping up all over the country. Kolmen Kaverin Jäätelö (Three Buddies’ Ice Cream) is the name of a brand founded by three friends who produce handmade ice cream in Helsinki from all-Finnish ingredients. Look out for their easy-to-spot orange tubs. And who could forget Jädelino, an ice cream bar that serves fresh, artisanal Italian-style gelato in Helsinki’s trendy Teurastamo (Abattoir) food quarter. jymy.fi 3kaveria.fi jadelino.fi

Fish swim into the kitchen PENTIK is a household name in Finnish tableware, textiles and interior decoration. One of the company’s novelties this summer is the marine-themed Ahti collection designed by Lasse Kovanen, featuring artsy renditions of Finnish fish such as vendace, perch and bream. Ahti kitchen towel €11. pentik.com

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Stallhagen Blueberry Ale, 4.6% Stallhagen brewery in the Åland Islands is known for its balanced beers, and this time they’ve bottled the finest that Finnish nature has to offer: blueberry. Let this soft ale rest at room temperature for a moment to bring out the blueberry aromas. Price: €2.69 Rekolan Panimon Funky Luomu, 6.5% True to its name, this organic beer is packed with plenty of character. Funky is made in a microbrewery in the historic ironworks village of Fiskars, 100 km west of Helsinki. Try it with summer salads and warm vegetable dishes. Price: €6.71 Suomenlinnan Hoppe IPA, 6% Hailing from Suomenlinna fortress island only a short ferry trip from Helsinki, this brew is a great example of the popular India pale ale style, balancing heavy bitterness with mild malty and fruity flavours. Price: €4.37

WITH AN OBSESSION FOR QUALITY

Manufacturers of sleep “Before Henry Ford put the world on wheels, my great-great-grandfather founded Hästens.” J A N RY D E , F I F T H - G E N E R AT I O N OW N E R O F T H E FA M I LY C O M PA N Y

Master craftsmen in front of the Hästens factory at the beginning of the 1900s.

HÄSTENS STORE HELSINKI Mannerheimintie 8, 00100 Helsinki Tel. 020 780 1370

hastens.com

TAKEOFF DESIGN

DESIGN DEALS Tapio Wirkkala’s classic Ultima Thule glasses for Iittala can also be found in the Finnair PlusShop. Check out finnairplusshop.com.

COMPILED AND WRITTEN BY SILJA KUDEL

The idea for the new market came from Christine Kangaspunta and Eeva-Liisa Näsi.

ANTIQUES MARKET

Pop-up Portobello

GLASSWARE

CHEERS, TAPIO! IF YOU’RE SIPPING a beverage in Business Class, chances are you’re holding the most famous glass design by Tapio Wirkkala often dubbed as Finland’s internationally best-known designer. Finnair began using his Ultima Thule glassware on its New York route back in 1969. Wirkkala designed a significant proportion of his work for Iittala and to mark the centenary of his birth, the design brand has released a limited-edition set of four Wirkkala schnapps glasses. The centenary also marks the return of Ultima Thule in two new plates, a sparkling wine glass, pitcher and beer glass – all featuring the icicle effect that took glassPÄIVI MATALA / GALLEN-KALLELA MUSEUM

blowers thousands of hours to perfect. Kicking off the official centenary programme is a trio of must-see exhibitions opening in Helsinki this June. The Ateneum Art Museum will host a photography show curated by Wirkkala’s daughter, the artist Maaria Wirkkala. The Colours of Venice at Design Forum Finland will introduce Wirkkala’s work for the Venini glassworks, and Wirkkala Revisited at the Design Museum will showcase the granddaddy of Scandinavian style in dialogue with new voices in contemporary design. iittala.com wirkkalabryk.fi/juhlavuosi

ARTISTIC ANNIVERSARY

Facebook pals at 150

THIS YEAR MARKS the 150th anniversary of two of Finland’s most acclaimed painters, Akseli Gallen-Kallela and Pekka Halonen. As part of the sesquicentennial line-up, Facebook profiles have been created for both artists, who are posthumously sharing their “thoughts” – and new “friends” are commenting on these posts as if the artists were still alive. The Gallen-Kallela Museum will host special guided tours on the theme of “Friends 150 Years” on June 14. Tarvaspää Museum, former home of painter Akseli Gallen-Kallela.

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gallen-kallela.fi

Here’s some catnip for vintage design hounds: Helsinki’s answer to Portobello Road is a new popup market in the trendy Punavuori district. Local antiques dealers will bring their treasures to Fredrikintori Square on summer Sundays, with an open-air café adding a laid-back continental vibe to the street happening. “Our market is strictly for high-quality design objects and furniture. It’s not a flea market – we already have Hietalahti for that,” says organiser Christine Kangaspunta, referring to the popular outdoor market on the nearby Hietalahti Square. facebook.com/ events/382727445248974/

Marja Kurki SHOP | Pohjoisesplanadi 25-27 | 00100 Helsinki | marjakurki.com

TAKEOFF WORLD

KAZAN CALLING Finnair flies to Russia’s sports capital Kazan three times weekly.

COMPILED AND WRITTEN BY MIRVA LEMPIÄINEN

CALENDAR

Summer events SATU ULVI

Mirja Kärnä

JULY 3–19

KORPPOO/HEINÄVESI. Entrepreneur Mirja Kärnä once walked from Finland to Spain in seven months. Today she leads summer walking retreats for small groups in Finland on the themes of silence, community and life flow. Http://happyhuman.fi/kalenteri

KAZAN

The world aquatic games JULY 24–AUG 16

Russia’s sports capital Kazan will see altogether 8,500 aquatic stars from 180 countries competing in five water sports at the bi-annual FINA World Championships and the FINA World Masters’ Championships. Both events will put Kazan’s 30 new world-class sports facilities to the true test. JULY 27–AUG 1 STOCKHOLM. Founded in 1998, Stockholm Pride Week has grown into Scandinavia’s biggest gay pride event. A lively line-up of debates, films, art exhibitions and five days of partying culminates in the iconic August 1 parade. Östermalm’s Pride Park is the centre of action. Stockholmpride.org

Fina.org

Angelique Kidjo

NEW YORK

Park vibes

UNTIL OCTOBER 4

AUGUST 7–10 SINGAPORE. The island will be staging events all through 2015 to celebrate its 50th year of independence, but the fun doubles on August Jubilee Weekend with aerial shows by the Singapore Air Force, firework displays in the marina and a floral depiction at Gardens by the Bay.

Angelique Kidjo, Scarface and Caribou are among the artists whose talent can be enjoyed for free as part of New York’s fourmonth SummerStage Festival. Now in its 30th anniversary season, the expanded festival will feature over 140 events in city parks from May through October, ranging from poetry and music to modern dance.

Singapore50.sg

Cityparksfoundation.org/summerstage

22 BLUE WINGS SUMMER 2015

Elämäsi unet Jenseniltä. Säädettävä vuode TAVALLISEN VUOTEEN HINNALLA!

Jensen on perinteikäs laatupatjojen valmistaja. Jensen Original -vyöhykejärjestelmä ja yksilöllinen säädettävyys tarjoavat ainutlaatuisen nukkumismukavuuden. Nyt sinulla on mahdollisuus nauttia elämäsi unista. Jensen Limited Edition Diplomat Dream -säätövuode, norm. 5.040,- NYT 2.990,-. Vuoteen koko 180 x 200 cm. www.jensen.ﬁ

www.vepsalainen.com

TAKEOFF FINLAND

CHINA ON OUR MINDS Finnair flies to a number of Chinese destinations several times daily. The airline also sponsors this year’s Helsinki Festival.

COMPILED AND WRITTEN BY LAURA IISALO

CULTURE

Eyes and ears on China IN AUGUST over 800 Chinese artists will descend upon the Helsinki Festival, the biggest annual arts event in Finland. Renowned composer Tan Dun is one of the eagerly awaited guests who will provide insights into both classical and contemporary Chinese culture. “China is, in view of its global role, relatively unknown here in Finland,” says festival director Erik Söderblom. “China has a very well-preserved cultural heritage. On the other hand, new generations are quick to react to global changes and generate new ideas. It’s fascinating how a country with such strong traditions can be so modern.” The two-week festival is a celebration 24 BLUE WINGS SUMMER 2015

of music, art, dance, theatre, circus, design and food. Many concerts will be hosted in and around the waterside Huvila Festival Tent, with satellite events taking place all over the capital. Music lovers mustn’t miss the two-day Modern Sky Festival, where contemporary Asian rock, pop and electro bands will get rhythms going with selected Nordic music acts. “Rock music is still relatively young in many parts of Asia, but the scene has exploded in recent years. We want to introduce this cool urban culture to local audiences,” says Jani Joenniemi, director of the Modern Sky Helsinki Festival.

The Contemporary Chinese Ink exhibition features new forms of Chinese painting, Guóhuà.

Composer Tan Dun gives a concert at Helsinki’s Music Centre.

TAKEOFF FINLAND

FINLAND

Summer events ALEJANDRO GONZALEZ

JULY 12–25 STRENGTH OF STRINGS. The Kuhmo Chamber Music Festival is a celebration of acoustic music set amidst the beauty of nature. With “Time” as its theme, this year’s festival is directed by viola player and composer Vladimir Mendelssohn.

ALL THAT JAZZ. Over 120,000 people will head west to take part in the annual Pori Jazz festival. The 50th anniversary line-up includes Emeli Sandé, Kool & The Gang, Orquesta Buena Vista Social Club and Jessie J. porijazz.fi

Jani Joenniemi ja Krista Huovinen, producers of Modern Sky Helsinki Festival

Helsinki Festival: August 14–30 Modern Sky Helsinki Festival: August 28– 29 helsinkifestival.fi modernskyfestivalhki.com

JUUSO WESTERLUND

Set in a secluded harbour area surrounded by old cranes and red brick walls, guests can sample Nordic and Asian delicacies, with with ships serving as floating bars and après-concert party venues.

kuhmofestival.fi JUSSI HELLSTEN

JULY 11–19

Flow Festival is the highlight of the summer.

AUGUST 14–16 GET WITH THE FLOW. Flow Festival is the highlight of the summer for many locals who get together for three days of live music, great food and a unique urban chill-out just a short bike ride from Helsinki’s city centre. flowfestival.com Events subject to change

The Sun Days bring you the season’s best deals in all stores at Helsinki Airport. See the offers and get ready to shop: airportshopping.fi

Fish TOTALLY HOOKED: 24-HOUR

marathon TEXT AND PHOTOS BY VILLE PALONEN

It’s dubbed the most challenging angling competition in Finland – the winner of the Fish Marathon is the team that catches the greatest variety of species in 24 hours. 26 BLUE WINGS SUMMER 2015

SUMMER 2015

BLUE WINGS

Team Fish Sticks (Kalapuikot) takes the competition quite seriously – they even have matching fishing hook tattoos for the 2014 competition.

ive centimetres of wriggling silvery minnow all but disappears in the hand of angler Fredrik Kankare. His catch doesn’t look like much, but in this competition, even a tiny belica is just as valuable as a 25-inch trout. We’re at an urban fishpond in Viikki, a neighbourhood in northeast Helsinki. Kankare knows the place well. “This is the only spot in Helsinki where you can catch belica,” he says, with a secretive smile.

TEAM FISH STICKS Kankare is the captain of Kalapuikot (Fish Sticks), a three-man team consisting of Kankare, his brother Kristian, and his father Seppo. All three are keen anglers, and have participated in the Fish Marathon since its inception in 2001. Their best ranking was in 2013, when they finished second with 29 different species – only one fewer than the winning team. Team Fish Sticks take their angling seriously – and even have matching fish hook tattoos. They have prepared for the competition meticulously. Kristian has been training “day and night,” and has even taken the whole week off work. During the last couple of days, they have been throwing boilies – a special bait mixture of fishmeal, oat flakes and parmesan cheese – in the spots where they plan to fish during the competition.

Within half an hour, the team have caught their second fish, a Prussian carp. The lads immediately pack their thin rods and hurry to the car and the next spot. Time is money: if there’s a draw, the winner is the fastest team to catch ten species.

28 BLUE WINGS SUMMER 2015

Time is money: in case of a draw, the winner is the team that catches ten species first.

GEEKS AND GOBIES The Fish Marathon is said to be the most challenging fishing competition in Finland, but the rules, at least, are relatively simple. Every fish species brings one point, no matter what its size (except with fishes such as trout, salmon and zander that have a legal minimum limit). All three members of the team must remain within a 100-metre radius of each other. Fish must be caught with a line and hook: a net can be used for lifting fish, but not for catching them.

The competition takes place in May, which is spawning season for species such as bream, crucian carp and common rudd. In addition to Helsinki, the competition is held in Kotka, Turku and Joensuu. “And we’re thinking about expanding to Stockholm and Tallinn, too,” says Jukka Halonen, director and

creator of the Fish Marathon. Today there are 64 teams in the competition, the same as last year. Species fishing is getting more and more popular, especially among the younger crowd, and Halonen has a theory why: “It’s like playing a computer game. Every time you catch a new species you move to the next level with a different target that requires a new approach and technique.” Even the Finnish Game and Fisheries Research Institute (RKTL) participate in the event, although unofficially: both of the main judges are top researchers. Their job is to carry out the final identification of the catch. Helsinki has 41 different fish species, and sometimes even an experienced angler has difficulties telling apart species such as tench, crucian carp, silver bream and common rudd. SUMMER 2015

A species fisherman needs to know where certain types of fish live, when they’re active, and what methods are best for catching them.

BLUE WINGS

The Fish Marathon takes place every May, which is the best time of year for bream, crucian carp and common rudd.

One of the judges is fish biologist Jussi Pennanen, for whom the competition provides useful information about the distribution of fish species. The prevalence of round goby is especially interesting to scientists, as this newcomer to Finland is taking over the established habitats of native black goby at a rapid rate. “Round goby travels from harbour to harbour in the ballast water of boats, and then spreads into the surrounding area,” says Pennanen. “Frankly, we’re quite helpless to stop it from spreading,” he says. MAGGOT OR CORN? “The area around Vanhankaupunginkoski rapids is the best angling spot in Helsinki,” declares Juha Salonen. “In spring you can catch pike and sea trout, in the summer zander and asp, and in the autumn whitefish and even salmon.” Salonen’s team is one of the frontrunners in the competition. Unfortunately for them, they’re not alone at the rapids. Around them at least two dozen long rods jut towards the water. Passersby have to be careful not to trample all the tackle lying on the ground. A species fisherman – someone who wants to catch as many different species as possible – needs to know the habits and habitats of dozens of different

30 BLUE WINGS SUMMER 2015

The most important gear is a small enough hook. When the target fish is only a few centimetres long, a regular worm fishing hook simply doesn’t fit into its mouth. fish. When the target is a tiny ten-spined stickleback, it’s crucial to know where it lives, what it eats, and what time of day it’s active. A small enough hook is the most important piece of tackle. When the targeted fish is only a few centimetres long, a regular fish hook simply won’t fit in its mouth. Micro hooks are baited with pieces of colourful maggots or corn. Regular rods and reels are used only for bigger fish such as pike, zander and asp. Salonen nabs a ten-centimetre ruffe, after which his team mate gets lucky. It’s exactly what the team is after:

CITY FISHING IN HELSINKI YOU COULD HARDLY imagine a more urban spot to fish, but Siltavuorensalmi – a narrow bay between Hakaniemi and Kruununhaka – is a highly popular wintertime destination for ice fishers trying to catch zander. Another top spot is Lauttasaari bridge. The season is short but all the more hectic: in late April and early May, dozens of fishermen fill their buckets with Baltic herring. In late autumn, the south end of Lauttasaari island is a prime spot for catching sea trout. The most popular place for angling is Vanhankaupunginkoski, about five kilometres north of the city centre. There’s a decent 200-metre stretch of rapids where fly fishermen vie to catch sea trout and rainbow trout. A large pool between the rapids and the sea is a good spot for zander, pike, perch and asp. A fishing permit in Helsinki costs €10 per day or €15 per week. Anglers also need to purchase a national fishing licence (€7 per week, €22 per year).

a Baltic vimba. Salonen shouts “Let’s go!” before he even nets the fish, and soon the team are running to their car. Team Fish Sticks watches them leave with crestfallen faces. They’ve spotted no sign of the two important species they’re after, vimba and asp.

NIGHT-TIME NIBBLERS The sun has set. Team Fish Sticks have caught a tiny ten-spined stickleback from their secret spot, but catching a zander proves difficult. It’s one of the most popular game fishes in Finland, and Helsinki waters are teeming with undersized youngsters, but zander has a minimum limit of 40 centimetres. Catching a fish that size is easier said than done, especially when the clock is ticking mercilessly. Suddenly Kristian gets a bite. His rod bends for a second, but the fish manages to fight off the hook. It’s a real setback.

Round goby is newcomer to Finland. It’s taking over the established habitats of native black goby at a rapid rate. Some of the best spots to catch round goby are Ruoholahti’s urban canals.

FINNISH FISHING GLOSSARY belica = allikkosalakka Prussian carp = hopearuutana bream = lahna crucian carp = ruutana common rudd = sorva tench = suutari silver bream = pasuri round goby = mustatäplätokko black goby = mustatokko pike = hauki trout = taimen zander = kuha asp = toutain whitefish = siika salmon = lohi carp = karppi ten-spined stickleback =kymmenpiikki Baltic vimba = vimpa minnow = mutu sand goby = hietatokko gudgeon = törö ruffe = kiiski common goby = liejutokko

The next morning Team Fish Sticks is in Aurinkolahti, one of Helsinki’s most eastern neighbourhoods.

The team pack their rods and reels and get out lighter tackle. Many of the tiniest species like goby and minnow are most active at night. Catching a fish that’s only a few centimetres long requires special tricks. Fredrik wades in knee-deep, peering into the water with his headlamp. When he spots movement, he carefully drops a micro-sized hook baited with a tempting piece of maggot in front of the fish. After two hours of hard work in the darkness, the team has caught only one new species, a sand goby. Half their time is up and they only have 20 points. The Fish Marathon isn’t going according to plan. The team needs closer to 30 points to make it to the podium.

BEHIND THE SCENES

Ville Palonen Ville Palonen is a photojournalist who loves adventures and the great outdoors. His most memorable moments with fish include catching an electric eel on the Amazon River and snorkeling with a whaleshark in Mozambique. When not travelling in exotic places, Palonen goes angling or kayaking in Finland. 32 BLUE WINGS SUMMER 2015

WHAT’S THAT FISH? The next morning Team Fish Sticks hits the east Helsinki neighbourhood of Aurinkolahti. All three men look tired: they haven’t slept all night, their faces are sunburned, and their hands are smeared with boilie paste. Nevertheless, they smile and chat cheerfully about the sauna and sleep they plan to enjoy after the competition ends in less than two hours. When 24 hours is up, all the teams gather with their catches. The organisers identify every little creature one by one – common rudd, gudgeon, ruffe, and so on – until a tiny fish in a small plastic bag has everyone puzzled. It’s taken indoors, where biologist Jussi Pennanen confirms with a microscope that the 38-millimetre fish is a common goby. The winner is clear even before the award ceremony: it’s Juha Salonen’s team, with a new record of 32 different species. The silver team scores 30 points, but there’s a tough battle for third place as two teams are tied at 28 points. In the end, third prize goes to Team Fish Sticks, who caught ten species faster than the other team. Wide smiles spread across the tired faces of the Kankare family. The participants head home for sauna and bed, but what happens to all the fish? The catch certainly doesn’t go to waste. It’s fed to bears and otters at the Helsinki Zoo on Korkeasaari island. l

This article was compiled following the May 2014 competition. Team Fish Sticks placed second in this year’s Fish Marathon. skes.fi/kalamaraton_sivut

The Best Dreams in Town Exciting new hotel opening in August 2015

Hotel Lilla Roberts Pieni Roobertinkatu 1-3, 00130 Helsinki +358 9 6899 880 www.lillaroberts.fi | sales@lillaroberts.fi

EUROPEAN VOICES BY ALEXANDER STUBB

The art of negotiation

ast month Finland science journalist Daniel Goleman would formed a new governput it, is the key to any solution. In that ment after three weeks sense negotiations are more about psyof intense talks. We chology than political science. have a tradition of coaNevertheless negotiations often take lition governments, place on many different levels. In interwhich means that we national relations you always have to take have to agree on fairly into consideration that the final result detailed government programmes. must be approved at home. I wrote my PhD on EU negotiations in Professor Robert Putnam calls this twothe late 1990s. I remember reading lots of level game theory. If I approve something literature on the subject, everything from in Brussels, it had better be cleared by our game theory to practical guides on how parliament first. The same goes for govto achieve results. Some of the theoretiernment negotiations. The final result has cal stuff is pretty to be approved far off. In practice by your party and WE ARE ACTUALLY INVOLVED negotiations are voters. IN NEGOTIATIONS MOST OF about human relaThe end game tions, not matheof a negotiation THE TIME, OFTEN WITHOUT matical formulas. is never easy. You REALISING IT. There is end up defining something a few key issues that appeals to me about the process. that are important for all participants. The Most of the time it is about finding a moment when a deal is struck, you often solution between differing views and feel a sense of relief. interests. Sometimes it is difficult to This is followed by a period when you agree on small things. At other times, try to fully understand what was actubig differences are ironed out in no ally agreed upon. The end result is rarely time. as good as you thought, but usually much We are actually involved in negoti- better than what you feared at some stage ations most of the time, often without during process. realising it. As a father of two youngOnce the deal is done, you should stick sters I am engaged in peace mediato it and defend it. This is when implemention or conflict management on a weekly tation becomes key. No one cares about a basis. contract that is not implemented. At work I try accommodate different Oh, and by the way. The government views every day. Small things, like office negotiations went well. We ended up space, can cause big rows. Ideological difforming a three-party government. All the ferences lead to different kinds of pracparticipants seemed happy. And now it is tical solutions, which have to be taken time get to work – which inevitably will into account. involve some negotiation. l German sociologist and economist Max Weber once said: “politics is the art of compromise.” How true. In the middle of that compromise is an issue, Alexander Stubb, the former prime minister of Finland, was negotiating which has to be solved by people a new ministerial portfolio when this article with different views and interests. The human touch – or emotional went to press. twitter.com/alexstubb intelligence – as psychologist and

34 BLUE WINGS SUMMER 2015

Duffel no. 6

Kategoria: Outdoor Koot: 50 l / 70 l / 110 l Materiaali*: G-1000 HeavyDuty: 65% polyesteri, 35% puuvilla Paino: 1500 g koossa 70 l

Laukun molemmissa päädyissä on tuplakahvat, jotka helpottavat laukun käsittelyä nostellessa.

Laukun päädyissä olevat kiristysremmit pitävät laukun sisällön tiukasti paikallaan silloin kun kassi on vajaasti täytetty.

Säädettävät olkahihnat ja laukun päälliosan läpät ovat topatut, mikä estää laukun sisällä olevien tavaroiden painautumista selkää vasten.

Suurikokoinen sisätasku sekä pienempi tasku arvotavaroille, molemmat vetoketjulla. Ulkopuolinen vetoketjullinen tasku tavaroille, jotka haluat pitää turvassa, mutta helposti saatavilla.

Vedenpitävän ja kestävän polyamidipohjan ansiosta voit asettaa laukun märälle alustalle ilman, että laukun sisältö pääsee kastumaan.

Voidaan kantaa joko kädessä tai repun tapaan. Kantoremmien kahvat ovat luonnonväristä nahkaa. Ulkotaskut ovat kätevät lehdille, kartalle ja muille tavaroille, jotka haluat pitää helposti saatavilla. Voit myös piilottaa kantokahvat näihin taskuihin; piiloneppari pitää ne paikoillaan.

Avaa, säilö, sulje – olkahihnat saa säilöttyä kuljetuksen ajaksi laukun päällä olevien topattujen läppien alle. Tämä helpottaa toimia lähtöselvityksessä ja vähentää riskiä, että laukkusi jäisi vahingossa kiinni esim. matkalaukkuhihnalla.

Valmistettu jämäkästä G-1000 HeavyDuty –kankaasta, joka kestää kovaakin käsittelyä ja suojaa laukun sisältöä.

Laukun päälokerossa on erityispitkä vetoketju. Näin ollen pakkaaminen ja laukun sisällön tarkastelu on helpompaa.

Minne ikinä matkaatkin Duffel No. 6 on tilava ja erittäin kestävä laukku, jonka sisään mahdutat kaikki välineesi, henkilökohtaiset tavarasi ja vielä vähän extraa - silloin kun lähdet pitkälle matkalle toiselle puolelle maa-

ilmaa. Laukkua on mukava kantaa ja siinä on käteviä yksityiskohtia, jotka helpottavat toimintaa lähtöselvityksessä ja vähentävät riskiä laukun osien tarttumiselle ja hajoamiselle kuljetuksen aikana.

* Sisältää muuta kuin tekstiiliä olevia eläinperäisiä ainesosia

Duffel No. 6 on saatavilla 50, 70 ja 110 litran koossa ja on valmis lähtemään kanssasi pidemmällekin reissulle.

DESTINATION FINLAND

nostalgia RIDING A WAVE OF

ON LAKE SAIMAA

36 BLUE WINGS SUMMER 2015

A charming steamboat ride on the pristine waters of Lake Saimaa is the ideal prelude to a night at the world-famous Savonlinna Opera Festival. TEXT AND PHOTOS BY HERNAN PATIÃ&#x2018;O

SUMMER 2015

BLUE WINGS

Captain Janne Leinonen jovially greets passengers.

A family enjoying the breathtaking scenery on the upper deck.

he city of Savonlinna in Eastern Finland is best known for its worldfamous Opera Festival hosted in St Olaf ’s medieval castle every July. An equally cherished part of the city’s heritage, however, is the fleet of magnificent old-time steamboats that have dotted the scenery of Lake Saimaa for over a hundred years. At the turn of the century, Savonlinna was a busy hub of commerce and tourism, most of its traffic being by water. In the 1920s, between 50 and 150 passenger steamboats plied the Saimaa Lake region. By the 1960s, Savonlinna’s passenger harbour was one of the busiest in the Northern hemisphere, with the steamboat industry gearing increasingly towards tourism. Today there are four of these old steamers still in operation. The S/S Punkaharju weaves a picturesque 1.5-hour route from Savonlinna to Punkaharju on weekdays, as well as shorter cruises on the weekends. The captain Janne Leinonen makes a point of greeting each passenger cheerfully: “Welcome on board!” Once, twice, three times the whistle blows and off we set into the sunny waters of Lake Saimaa. My daughter Sof ía and I make our way through cosylooking saloons and climb upstairs to the main deck. There are roughly 15 passengers aboard: families, couples, solo travellers. An impressive lake panorama opens up as we make our way to the stern.

SEAL SURPRISES Measuring 4,400 square km in area and with over 13,000 islands, Saimaa is Finland’s largest lake and the fourth largest in Europe. Last year the Wall Street Journal listed it among the five most beautiful lakes in the world. As more islands and inlets begin to appear, the captain tells us to keep our eyes peeled for the mascot of Lake Saimaa, the rare freshwater Saimaa ringed seal. They’re not easy to spot, but Leinonen reportedly caught a glimpse of one just two days ago. “You need the right water conditions, as we have today: dead calm waters which we locals call ‘rasvatyyni’, which literally means ‘as still as grease’.” Sure enough, 20 minutes later our captain’s welltrained eye spots a seal directly 50 metres ahead. From afar it looks like a dark, symmetrical stone protruding from the water, but sure enough it really is a seal. Three or four seconds later it vanishes with a splash. VIP PASSENGERS Built in 1905, the S/S Punkaharju is still in fine working order and could go for another hundred years, says Leinonen. Its superb condition was noted by the German President Joachim Gauck, who took a steamboat ride in the summer of 2013 with Finland’s President Sauli Niinistö. “Gauck told me that his father had been a captain as well and that he was impressed by how well these

38 BLUE WINGS SUMMER 2015

SAVONLINNA SALUTES SIBELIUS Held every summer, the Savonlinna Opera Festival is one of the world’s most acclaimed international opera festivals. First organised in 1912, it takes place in the romantic medieval fortress of St Olaf’s Castle. This year’s festival will be held between July 3 and August 2. The 2015 repertoire includes The Marriage of Figaro, Puccini’s Tosca and Verdi’s La Traviata. A special grand finale concert will end the season commemorating the 150th anniversary of the birth of the renowned Finnish composer Jean Sibelius. operafestival.fi/en

www.kultaseppakulmala.fi | www.facebook.com/kultaseppakulmala | www.pinterest.com/gskulmala

ALL STEAMED UP Most of Finland’s historic steamboats were built in Varkaus for exclusive use in the Saimaa region. Four of them still survive in Savonlinna: the S/S Savonlinna, S/S Paul Wahl, S/S Heinävesi and S/S Punkaharju. The S/S Savonlinna is a museum ship that can be rented by groups of 15 to 25 people to explore Lake Saimaa on an overnight cruise. Similar steamers can also be found in Jyväskylä, Tampere, Turku and Helsinki. The season in Savonlinna lasts from June to August, but group bookings are also accepted in May and September. The steamers carry an average of 25,000 passengers per season. Visit the Lake Saimaa Nature and Culture Centre to view exhibitions on the history of Lake Saimaa and its vintage steamboats. SCENIC CRUISE: Duration 1.5 hours, adults €19, children aged 7–17 €9, and family package €45 SAVONLINNA-PUNKAHARJU ROUND TRIP SCENIC CRUISE: Duration 2.5 hours, adults €50, children aged 7–17 €20 OPERA CRUISE WITH ONBOARD BUFFET: Enjoy a buffet dinner while cruising Lake Saimaa and return to St Olaf’s Castle for the opera. Boat trip €90 + opera ticket starting at €40. Duration: 6.5 hours CUSTOM CRUISES (fishing, weddings, birthdays, business, wilderness tours): €325 per hour Check out the website for 2015 timetables. vipcruise.info/en savonlinna.travel/en/home/ savonlinna.fi/riihisaari

40 BLUE WINGS SUMMER 2015

steamboats were kept and how beautiful Lake Saimaa was,” says Leinonen. He eagerly adds that Finland’s former president Tarja Halonen has also been on the ship many times, along with other heads of state and opera stars. As the steamer turns back towards Savonlinna, St Olaf ’s Castle towers right above us, basking in full splendour in the golden afternoon light, setting off a chorus of camera clicks. Half an hour later, we’re back at the harbour. We return to our small but cosy quarters aboard another steamboat, the S/S Savonlinna, which is temporarily anchored in the harbour waiting for a larger group. From our cabin we watch the sun as it adamantly refuses to set, bathing the whole of Savonlinna harbour in its gentle glow well into the wee hours. l

Sof ía waits her turn at trying the helm while captain Ari Mikkonen checks the course.

BEHIND THE SCENES

Hernan Patiño

Hernan Patiño is a freelance photographer born in Colombia and living in Helsinki with his family. His projects have taken him to different lands and seas, including a book and documentary film about belugas in Solovetski and the White Sea.

www.kia.fi

Pyritkö täydellisyyteen? Miksi et ajaisi sillä?

Uusi Kia Sorento. Täydellisyyttä tavoitteleville. Täydellinen kaikille. Hyvän ja täydellisen välillä on paljon eroa. Ja uudella Kia Sorentolla me todella tähtäämme täydellisyyteen. Lopputulos? Auto, jossa yhdistyy ylellinen mukavuus jopa 7 matkustajalle, innovatiivinen teknologia, kuten mukautuva vakionopeudensäädin, parantunut turvallisuustaso ja tyrmäävä ulkomuoto. Kia Sorentolla jokainen päivä on nautinnollinen. Jopa niille, joita on lähes mahdoton tyydyttää.

Uusi Kia Sorento autoveroton hinta alk. 32.506,39 €, arvioitu autovero alk. 10.483,61 €, kokonaishinta alk. 42.990 €. Vapaa autoetu alk. 835 €/kk, käyttöetu alk. 655 €/kk. EU-yhd. 5,7-6,7 l/100 km, CO2-päästöt 149-177 g/km. Takuu 7 vuotta tai 150 000 km, kolme ensimmäistä vuotta ilman km-rajaa. Kia 24h tiepalvelu vuodeksi veloituksetta. Kuvan auto erikoisvarustein.

TOP5 O T S

s to flie landa r i Ar na Fin olm’s ma 12 ckh rom Sto and B up to s . rt aily po air mes d om .c ti air finn

Swedish long-living brands

LUXURIANT IN LEATHER Many famous fashion and furniture brands swear by this trademark: founded 140 years ago, Tärnsjö Garveri remains worldrenowned for its high-quality, locallysourced, vegetable-tanned leather. Axel Bodén – who took over from his father as director 12 years ago – recently hired Simon Hjälte as creative director. His new Icon Collection features hand-finished accessories for urban lifestyles. tarnsjogarveri.com

42 BLUE WINGS SUMMER 2015

These five Swedish design icons lead the industry by combining a strong skills legacy with a bold, reinventive take on design.

TEXT AND PHOTOS BY LAURA IISALO

FRANKLY FABULOUS Estrid Ericson opened a little pewter workshop in Stockholm back in 1924. Ten years later she hired the Austrian-born designer Josef Frank, and together they built an interiors company loved for its bold, colourful style. Svenskt Tenn collaborates regularly with contemporary designers and hosts a beautiful tea salon in its flagship store as a tribute to Ericson, who drank two and a half cups every morning and the same again with lunch. svenskttenn.se

BOOKS WITH LOOKS The history of Bookbinders Design goes back to 1927, when Martin Ă&#x2026;hnberg acquired the equipment he needed to start binding books. He went on to start his own company, Ă&#x2026;hnbergs Bokbinderi in 1965, which later became Bookbinders Design in 2001. Still specialising in Scandinavian-style handcrafted products such as notebooks, boxes and other accessories made of natural materials, the company collaborates with creative talent including Swedish illustrator and designer Hanna Werning. bookbindersdesign.com

A TOUCH OF GLASS Founded in 1742, Kosta Boda started off as a glass manufacturer of useful glassware items such as window panes, bottles and chandeliers for the well-to-do who could afford them. Today seven in-house designers produce everything from utility glassware to art glass. The company even has its own hotel near the factory, boasting a bar made entirely of glass and a pool with an underwater exhibition. kostaboda.se

BRASS AMBITION Skultuna was founded in 1608 by King Karl IX to foster the Swedish brass industry. Over the centuries the brass manufacturer has transformed itself into a design brand. These days Skultuna collaborates with many edgy designers including Luca Nichetto, Claesson Koivisto Rune and Lara Bohinc, whose candleholders sold out last year and have been relaunched for summer in pretty pastels. skultuna.com

SUMMER 2015

BLUE WINGS

DESTINATION CHINA

44 BLUE WINGS SUMMER 2015

STILL WATERS

The legendary Three Gorges of Chinaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Yangtze River may no longer be brimming with rapids and whirlpools, but their spectacular sights still have the power to bewitch waterborne travellers. TEXT AND PHOTOS BY DANIEL ALLEN

SUMMER 2015

BLUE WINGS

Captain Xie Shou Gui surveys the scenery of the Yangtze River as his ship approaches the city of Fengdu.

ess than two days downstream from the skyscrapers and urban sprawl of Chongqing and the scenery beside the Yangtze River begins to change. Limestone cliffs rear up beside the river’s swollen, chocolate waters, topped with dense green vegetation and cloaked in serpentine tendrils of mist. Higher up, naked peaks can be glimpsed through a swirling blanket of low-lying cloud. The wild wonders of Qutang Xia, the first of China’s fabled Three Gorges (San Xia), are about to reveal themselves. Looking out from his bridge, Xie Shou Gui surveys the spectacular scenery with a steady eye. The captain of the Victoria Katarina, a 100-metre long, multi-deck luxury cruise ship, is part romantic, part realist. “This is the mother waterway of China,” says Xie, putting down a cup of green tea. “I’ve worked on the Yangtze for 30 years and it’s still a joy to contemplate the ever-changing views.” The world’s third longest river, the Yangtze rises in the icy wastes of the Tibetan Plateau before flowing over 6,000 kilometres eastward to the East China Sea. Today Yangtze cruises typically start in the megalopolis of Chongqing, with voyages downstream passing through the Three Gorges – a succession of three spectacular canyons – before ending in the city of

G K C

s to flie our r i na gf Fin gqin kly. n o ee Ch es w om tim nair.c fin

A Yangtze cruise ship moored at the city of Fengdu.

46 BLUE WINGS SUMMER 2015

“If you haven’t travelled the Yangtze, you haven’t been anywhere,” runs one wellknown saying.

Yichang in Hubei Province, or at the river mouth in Shanghai. The Chinese are a nation fond of their idioms. “If you haven’t travelled the Yangtze, you haven’t been anywhere,” runs one well-known saying. “I know some people in Beijing and Shanghai who might disagree,” says Michael Darby, the Victoria Katarina’s American cruise director, with a laugh. “Still, a cruise on the Yangzte is a voyage through the very heartland of China.”

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Traditional Chinese cuisine aboard the Victoria Katarina cruise ship.

Passengers disembark the Victoria Katarina en route to Fengdu.

Most Yangtze cruise ships provide a colourful programme of evening entertainment.

48 BLUE WINGS SUMMER 2015

The spectacular crimson pagoda at Shibaozhai.

A TALE OF TWO RIVERS In addition to their varied landscapes of epic beauty, the middle reaches of the Yangtze are also the location for one of mankind’s most ambitious and controversial projects – the Three Gorges Dam – a concrete leviathan whose completion in 2009 created a reservoir over 600 kilometres long. With water levels rising above 100 metres in places, the creation of the Three Gorges reservoir behind the dam forced 1.3 million people from their homes. It also allowed supersized tour boats such as the Victoria Katrina to travel farther upstream than they ever could in the days of Mao Zedong. “People often ask me whether the Three Gorges Dam was a good idea,” says captain Xie Shou Gui. “To be honest it has brought mixed blessings to the Yangtze and the people who live along it. Navigation is certainly simpler. We can sail at night, for a start.” With the mountainous peaks of western Hubei Province constricting the Yangtze’s powerful flow, this stretch of China’s longest river was both famed and feared for its savage splendour. A treacherous succession of whirlpools and rapids, shoals and reefs, for centuries the Three Gorges presented a formidable obstacle: there were days when one in 20 ships navigating here were lost to the Yangtze’s boiling waters. Indeed, in the days of sail, teams of “trackers” – who frequently operated naked to avoid friction burns

CRUISE LOW-DOWN CRUISES ON the Yangtze travel upstream and downstream. Travelling downstream, most begin in the city of Chongqing and either end in Yichang, just below the Three Gorges Dam (four days), or Shanghai (seven days). Major cities along the route include Wuhan and Nanjing. While some companies operate cruises all year round, spring and autumn are the best time for making the trip due to weather conditions. Passengers typically sleep (and dine) on the boat, with cabins of various sizes and comfort levels offered. On Victoria Cruises (victoriacruises.com), the cheapest price for a four-day trip between Chongqing and Yichang is around €420 (low season). The most expensive seven-day trip between Chongqing and Shanghai costs €3500 (high season). These prices include all meals, but not shore excursions.

Taking the plunge near the city of Yichang, where many Yangtze cruises begin or end.

A card game in the village of Shibaozhai, close to the pagoda of the same name.

The Three Gorges Dam is China’s largest infrastructure project since the Great Wall.

50 BLUE WINGS SUMMER 2015

– would haul junks and other vessels upstream by hand, circumventing the worst of the white water. The Yangtze’s trackers have long since disappeared, and the roar of the Three Gorges has been silenced by the dam. Yet despite the diminished danger, the beauty and drama of the Three Gorges thankfully remains undimmed. “This part of the Yangzte is still wild enough for most,” says Darby with a smile. DEATHLY DELIGHTS Some 170 kilometres downstream from Chongqing, the ship passes the Ghost City of Fengdu. At the Nothing-To-Be-Done-Bridge a group of tourists patiently wait to see whether they are virtuous enough to pass over the narrow stone span. Those of poor character may be destined for a soaking in the pool below, although the guardians of the bridge seem in a particularly lenient mood. Sitting beside the Yangtze, the whimsically macabre city of Fengdu is a colourful complex of Buddhist and Taoist temples perched on a hill known as Ming Mountain. The place received its reputation as a “ghost city” during the Han Dynasty (25–220 CE), when two imperial court officials – surnamed Yin and Wang – settled here to teach Taoism and supposedly became immortal. Taken together their names sound like “King of Hell” in Chinese, and so the ghoulish connection began. “To the Chinese, the King of Hell was more like the Greek god Hades,” explains local tour guide Tu Wei Wei. “It was widely believed that in his kingdom good people would be treated well in the afterlife, while the bad would be punished. This is why the entire complex is covered in demonic images and instruments of torture.” “Until the 1960s boats on the Yangtze would often moor in the middle of the river to avoid getting too close to Fengdu’s ghosts,” adds captain Xie. Nowadays the only ghosts inhabiting Fengdu appear to be temple workers in costume or children in gruesome face masks. “I think we can manage to repel both if necessary,” says captain Xie with a smile. FANTASTIC FORTRESS Today the Yangtze is an eclectic mix of the low and high-tech. A little farther downstream from Fengdu is an architectural marvel that stands in stark contrast to the Three Gorges Dam. Built without the use of a single nail, Shibaozhai is a vermilion, 12-storey pagodafortress that leans against the side of a huge rock, now an island thanks to the rising waters of the Yangtze. Known across China as the “Pearl of the Yangtze,” Shibaozhai dates back to the Ming Dynasty (13681644 CE), with each of its 12 storeys dedicated to a famous general, poet or scholar. Sitting on the top of the rock is a Buddhist temple which offers spectacular panoramic views over the river and attendant cargo ships. “Prior to the construction of the pagoda, visitors to the temple were hoisted to the top of the rock using a system of chains,” explains tour guide Tu. “Not the ideal method of transport for worshippers afflicted with vertigo.”

RECORD-BREAKING RIVER

AROUND 6,300 KILOMETRES long, the Yangtze is the world’s third longest river (after the Nile and Amazon). It is the longest river in the world to flow entirely within one country, draining one-fifth of the land area of China. Its basin is home to one-third of the Chinese population.

Tour guide Tu Wei Wei looks across the Yangtze toward her home in the new city of Fengdu.

GORGEOUS PASSAGE Of the Three Gorges – Qutang, Wu and Xiling – which in their entirety stretch for nearly 200 kilometres – the former is said to be the most dramatic and the latter the most dangerous. Wu is considered the most beautiful. As the cruise ship sweeps into Qutang Gorge, passengers gather on deck to admire the spectacle. Shortest of the gorges at just eight kilometres long and the

farthest upstream of the three, Qutang’s entrance is guarded by the twin sentinels of Mount Chijia and Mount Baiyuan, towering to heights of over 1,000 metres. This is the Kui Gate, once famed as the “most dangerous pass in the world” and still awe-inspiring with its vertiginous rock faces hewn from the native limestone. Half an hour later and the ship sails past a colourful array of mountaintop temples, pagodas and towns into the next of China’s grand canyons. Wu Gorge is another world – expansive yet still dramatic. Nearly six times the length of Qutang, it takes 90 photogenic minutes to traverse. The highlight of the gorge are the Twelve Peaks of Mount Wu

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The Three Gorges Scenic Spot is a traditional stop on cruises between Yichang and Chongqing.

(Shi’er Feng) – a series of cloud-covered mountains of which nine are visible from the water. Look out for Shennü Peak (Goddess Peak), which is said to resemble a graceful maiden shrouded in fog. DAMNED IMPRESSIVE At the eastern end of the Xiling Gorge lies the the Three Gorges Dam, China’s largest infrastructure project since the Great Wall and potent symbol of China’s rising economic might. More than 40,000 workers toiled for over 13 years to build it, at a cost of around 27 billion euros. However you feel about its massive social and environmental impact, its awe-inspiring scale is simply breathtaking. To pass through the dam, all ships must rise or fall over 100 metres. A five-stage ship lock acts as a massive elevator, allowing vessels to make the transit in about three hours. “When those gargantuan lock gates clang shut and the water drains away, you feel like you’re in the belly of a whale,” says Michael Darby. “Underneath the huge spotlights, hemmed in by the naked walls of the lock, it’s a surreal environment.” For many passengers, soon to disembark in nearby Yichang, it’s a chance to reflect on a voyage of discovery that speaks volumes about China, both new and old. l 52 BLUE WINGS SUMMER 2015

To pass through the dam, all ships must rise or fall over 100 metres. A five-stage ship lock acts as a massive elevator, allowing vessels to make the transit in about three hours.

BEHIND THE SCENES

Daniel Allen London-based writer and photographer Daniel Allen lived for five years in China. “Before I took this cruise I had already experienced many of China’s most scenic places. But this recent trip was still a real eye opener for me. Despite all the changes the Yangtze still has an awe-inspiring and unique beauty.”

The Better You Sleep The Better You Feel. A good night´s sleep creates solid basis to our day-to-day health and well-being. Sleep affects our memory both linguistic and mathematical skills, speech, creativity, effectiveness, alertness and lots of other daily functions. By making good sleep a priority, you’ll find your self taking delight in the newly found success and happiness in your life.

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A Good Mattress Helps Millions of people suffer from daily back pain. In many cases, the pain is unnecessary and caused by incorrect muscular balance. The main reasons for these kinds of muscular imbalances is wrong sleeping and working positions, in addition to insufficient exercise and stretching. Many people are doing sedentary work that strains the back and especially the lower back. It is therefore very important to have a good bed that allows a good sleeping position, thus relaxing and relieving the stressed muscles.

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A350XWB FINNAIR’S AIRBUS A350 XWB aircraft sets new standards for passenger experience and environmental performance. In this series, we explore how noise reduction, good lighting, cleaner air and a better digital experience – all distinctive in the A350 planes – have significant impact on your wellbeing.

54 BLUE WINGS SUMMER 2015

elsinki is one of the few European capitals surrounded by sea, with 100 kilometres of shoreline and about 330 islands dotting the waterfront. Slightly further east from the touristy cluster of Suomenlinna Fortress Island, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is the lesser-known area – for now, at least – of Kruunuvuorenranta, where the world’s first District of Light is taking shape. Designed wholly around the principles of light, this first-of-its-kind residential area will house 11,000 people by the mid-2020s. “To brand a whole district by light is revolutionary: it simply hasn’t been done before,” says award-winning lighting designer Tapio Rosenius, who is the founder

of the Lighting Design Collective (LDC), an international studio with a focus on light for the built environment and architecture. “The master plan by the Speirs + Major and West 8 team is really clever – it’s an infrastructure for residents to manipulate their own environment with their own lights and lanterns,” says Rosenius. From a competition called “Lights Over Kruunuvuorenranta” that ran during the Helsinki World Design Capital Year in 2012, the two winning proposals were “Into the Light” by the Austrian group Bartenbach Lichtlabor (now simply Bartenbach), and “Nature’s Lanterns” by Dutch West 8 urban design and landscape architecture firm and UK-based design practice Speirs + Major.

BRILLIANT JOURNEYS As the world’s first District of Light takes shape on the Helsinki waterfront, the power of lighting arises as the talking point in city planning, wellbeing and design. TEXT BY KATJA PANTZAR

SUMMER 2015

BLUE WINGS

TUOMAS UUSHEIMO

KATJA PANTZAR

SILO 468 is accessible by boat, public transport as well as by car. The City of Helsinki provides updates of opening hours and access on its website:

Finnish design icon Marimekko held their spring/ summer 2015 fashion show inside the Silo.

hel.fi

The City of Helsinki chose to develop the Speirs + Major and West 8 team’s innovative vision for the lighting masterplan, and lighting and landscape concepts. When the District of Light is finished in the mid-2020s, it will be an illuminated stage visible from numerous vantage points in Helsinki. As the area is developed, ten euros per developed square metre of building will be spent on light art. A MOMENTARY GLOW Rosenius is the mastermind behind the area’s first beacon of light, Silo 468, a massive re-purposed oil storage container that doubles as a work of art and a public gallery. Stepping inside the silo, which is painted a shade of dark red, is like entering a carousel of dancing light and colour. The silo’s 2,012 handmade holes, commemorating the Helsinki World Design Capital 2012 year for which it was commissioned, are fitted with 1,280 LED dome lights and small mirrors. The LED lights flicker on and off in waves, controlled by a computer programme that uses swarm intelligence and naturestimulating algorithms that respond to changes in wind, temperature and weather conditions. “The idea was to preserve a memory, not to shy away from the idea that this was previously an industrial site – an oil silo. To me, darkness is luxury, one that doesn’t exist in many parts of the world owing to light pollution,” says Rosenius.

Silo 486, a massive re-purposed oil storage container, doubles as a work of art and a public gallery.

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Lighting designer Tapio Rosenius is the mastermind behind Silo 468. Helsinki is a city uniquely shaped by seasons of light owing to its northerly position perched on the edge of the Baltic Sea between Sweden and Russia. At the height of summer the sun shines around the clock, flooding the Finnish capital with endless daylight. In sharp contrast, during the dark depths of winter there are just a few meagre hours of natural light when the sun (on the days it chooses to shine) hovers above the horizon like an orange orb. THE UNBEARABLE LIGHTNESS OF WELLBEING Light has a direct effect on health, says Rosenius, who grew up in the northern Finnish city of Oulu and is now based in Madrid. Circadian rhythms are the mental, physical and behavioural changes that respond to light and darkness in the environment of a person, animal or plant in the 24 hours that comprise a single day and night cycle. “There’s a convincing body of research that links the quality and quantity of artificial light to melatonin and serotonin production – basically the hormonal balance in your body that allows you to feel naturally tired in the evenings so you fall asleep, have a good sleep and wake up naturally in the morning. So the man-made lighting around you does have a surprisingly strong impact on wellbeing,” says Rosenius.

Yki Nummi famously said, “People don’t buy lamps, they buy light.”

VISIONARIES During the winter months there can be up to 18 hours of darkness a day in the far north. As such, many people in Finland suffer from seasonal affective disorder (SAD), or winter depression, which has resulted in a bustling bright light therapy lamp business. With an annual turnover of more than five million

HUGO SIMBERG: FROST, 1895, DETAIL. ATENEUM. PHOTO: FINNISH NATIONAL GALLERY / YEHIA EWEIS

LUIS DÍAZ DÍAZ

KATJA PANTZAR

SUN SALUTATIONS

Dozens of waterfront cafés and bars dot the Helsinki waterfront during the summer. Relaxing in lounge chairs sipping champagne on the shores of Kaivopuisto Park at Mattolaituri signals the start of the outdoor patio season – and celebrates the season of endless natural light. Mattolaituri, Ehrenströmintie 3 A mattolaituri.com

KATJA TÄHJÄ

Lounging at Mattolaituri marks the start of summer.

euros, Innolux is one of the country’s top manufacturers of dynamic bright light therapy lamps. Headquartered in the Helsinki suburb of Kurki mäki, Innolux is led by founder Jukka Jokiniemi, who is legally blind. He founded his company in the early 1990s when he started gradually losing his sight owing to an incurable eye condition. Creating good light was his way of countering darkness. Jokiniemi’s firm makes a range of bright light therapy lamps and design lights that have garnered awards ranging from the Red Dot Design prize to accolades from style guide Wallpaper* magazine. The Modern Art table lamp and Lokki pendant lamp by Yki Nummi (1925–1984), one of the top Scandinavian designers of the 1950s, ’60s and ’70s, are still in production. As Nummi famously said, “People don’t buy lamps, they buy light.” l

BEHIND THE SCENES

Katja Pantzar Katja Pantzar is the author of Helsinki by Light (Siltala Publishing), which is out this month and offers a bright new perspective on the Finnish capital.

WELCOME TO The Story of

Aino Sibelius In Järvenpää Art Museum until 4th Oct, 2015 Tue–Sun 11am–6pm

JÄRVENPÄÄ

THE HOMETOWN OF

Jean Sibelius

Authentic

Home Museum of the Sibelius Family 2nd May–30th Sep, 2015 Tue–Sun 10am–5pm www.ainola.fi

www.jarvenpaa.fi/sibeliusanniversary

A350XWB FLYING LIGHT FINNAIR IS THE FIRST European airline to operate the next-generation Airbus A350 XWB aircraft, the first four of which will join the fleet for their inaugural flights this autumn. In addition to a spacious, modern cabin, the new Airbus 350 XWBs offer state-of-the-art lighting. Designer Vertti Kivi has created the sleek interiors of the cabins, which have large panoramic windows that let natural light in. “The latest LED lighting technology allows for a range of 16.8 million different colours, which means dynamic lighting, colours and moods to suit the time of day, destination or season. This in turn helps passengers relax and adjust to new time zones,” says Kivi. “For example, when descending

in Asia the aircraft can be awash in warm orange tones, or surface interiors may glow in fresh blue hues when arriving in Helsinki,” says Kivi, whose leading-edge Airbus 350 XWB cabin design recently won Finnair a prestigious International Yacht & Aviation Award for design. The first long-haul Airbus 350 XWB destination will be Shanghai in October, with Beijing, Bangkok, Hong Kong, and Singapore to follow. Finnair has also firmed up eight additional Airbus A350 XWB aircraft options initially made in its 2006 order with Airbus. These eight A350s will be delivered to Finnair starting in 2018. At Airbus list prices, the value of the eight A350 aircraft is approximately 1.9 billion euros. Finnair’s total number of A350 orders is currently at 19 airplanes.

EUROPEAN VOICES BY SIXTEN KORKMAN

The vision of a Nordic federal state

nce upon a time there A more serious argument against the was a Nordic union. The Nordic federation is that there is no urgent “Kalmar Union” (1397need for it. There have been no conflicts 1523) brought together between the Nordic countries for more all five Nordic countries: than two centuries. All enjoy a relatively Denmark, Iceland, Norhigh level of economic efficiency and social way, Sweden and Finland. equity. If it ain’t broke, why fix it? What The Swedish historian Gunnar Wettercould change to create new political impeberg proposed in 2009 that all five should tus for reconsidering the matter? again merge into a new Nordic Federal The crisis in Ukraine and renewed tenState. His arguments received favourable sions with Russia have caused serious conattention, but triggered no serious action. cern about security in Eastern and Northern The Nordic economy is among the 12 Europe. This has triggered a renewed wish biggest in the world. A Nordic union would for stronger Nordic defence cooperation have a seat at the G20 table and could aspire and growing public interest in the option to key posts in the EU and other internaof joining NATO. Further security-related tional organisations. turbulence in Northern Europe could cause A Nordic federation would need a confundamental changes in the Nordic political stitution and a twolandscape. chamber parliaThe euroA “UNITED NORTH” IS NEITHER zone debt crisis ment. It would LEGALLY NOR have a common is far from being foreign and securesolved – and ADMINISTRATIVELY rity policy, a Greece is not the UNREALISTIC. framework for only source of fiscal policy, a concern. The euro common currency, labour market and might well face another existential crisis in immigration policy as well as deeper coming years, and if it does, the old idea of cooperation in areas such as educaa common Nordic currency might reappear tion and research. on the agenda. A British exit from the EU, A “United North” is neither certainly undesirable and hopefully unlikely, legally nor administratively unrealcould also nudge us on the path towards istic. The Nordic countries have a Nordic integration. shared history, similar institutions Friends of the Nordic Federal State face a and a common socio-economic dilemma. If all goes well, it will never hapmodel. Their citizens have similar pen. If things go wrong, then Nordic intevalues and a high level of trust in gration might look considerably more each other and public institutions. attractive. Perhaps we should hope that the So why haven’t the Nordic govNordic Federal State remains nothing more ernments set up a committee to than an inspiring vision. l pave the way for a new Kalmar Union? Is it just a case of political and administrative inertia? AALTO UNIVERSITY professor Sixten One problem exists: Who Korkman is the former director general at the should be king or queen? WetterCouncil of the EU’s Directorate for Economic berg has a ready solution: It should be Margarethe of Denmark, because and Social Affairs. His latest book is Euro: valutta vailla valtiota (Euro: the currency Margaret was the key head of state without a state). of the first Kalmar Union.

60 BLUE WINGS SUMMER 2015

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STEFAN BREMER/KUHMO CHAMBER MUSIC FESTIVAL

Can Sibelius’s music – which draws deeply on Finnish and European tradition – bring some added value to Asian listeners?

BORDER-HOPPING CULTURE Great art is based on its creator’s ability to pick up subtle signals. But work that is popular at home may not strike a chord elsewhere. What then are the secrets of successful cultural exports? TEXT BY JORMA LEPPÄNEN

SUMMER 2015

BLUE WINGS

JUKKA LINTINEN

The Finnish Radio Symphony Orchestra (FRSO) tours Asia this autumn as part of the Sibelius jubilee year.

his year marks the 150th anniversary of the birth of composer Jean Sibelius, and for the Finnish Radio Symphony Orchestra (FRSO) the highlight of the jubilee year is this autumn’s tour of Asia. But why bring the music of Sibelius, which draws deeply on Finnish and European tradition, to Asia? “The music of Sibelius seems to bring added value in a special way to Chinese, Japanese and South Korean cultures,” says Seppo Kimanen, a cellist and internationally-recognised classical music expert. “This disproves the poet Rudyard Kipling’s claim that East and West shall never meet.” As the founder and former artistic director of Eastern Finland’s Kuhmo Chamber Music Festival, Kimanen is well-versed in intercultural dialogue. “When I talk about the added value offered by music, I mean spiritual and artistic value. In other words, music creates something new and valuable in the listener,” he says.

THE ART OF LISTENING The concept of added value is usually associated with physical capital but in economic terms, Finnish cultural exports are not highly successful – yet. “There are wonderful composers, conductors, musicians, visual artists, filmmakers, architects and writers in Finland. But in the culture and entertainment sectors, Finland’s relative edge in international economic competition is marginal compared to Sweden or Germany, for instance. They are much more 64 BLUE WINGS SUMMER 2015

successful than Finland in producing and exporting culture,” says Kimanen. As Kimanen sees it, marketing is primarily a question of listening – an effort to find out about your potential customers’ values and expectations. “If an artist thinks a lot about what the audience expects from him or her, the result is usually bad art,” says Kimanen. “It’s largely the responsibility of concert agencies and managers to find concert halls, galleries and museums that suit the works. The most influential classical music managers are based in New York and London. Besides these, the most important cities for international artistic breakthroughs are Berlin, Vienna and Tokyo.” The Finnish Radio Symphony Orchestra’s chief conductor Hannu Lintu and his predecessors Sakari Oramo and Jukka-Pekka Saraste have all forged international reputations with the help of a London management agency, for instance. “A chief conductor’s reputation is tied to an orchestra’s reputation. And a reputation is of course based on know-how,” says Tuula Sarotie, intendant of the FRSO.

Sibelius’s works have been well known in Japan since the 1970s, when conductor Akeo Watanabe often presented them on television.

“For instance the Tokyo audiences include many people who are familiar with our orchestra’s various interpretations of Sibelius over the decades. It’s challenging to present well-known pieces in such a way that exceeds the listeners’ high expectations,” Sarotie says. Along with Sibelius, the orchestra has performed works by dozens of other Finnish composers. “In terms of cultural exports, Sibelius is far and away number one, but our contemporary composers such as Kaija Saariaho, Magnus Lindberg and Esa-Pekka Salonen are also doing remarkable work. Our orchestra continually commissions new s to a works from Finnish compose i r fl ak ers and presents them abroad,” nai d Os n i F an . Sarotie notes. o ly ky To dai om .c air OPEN BORDERS finn Sibelius’s works have been wellknown in Japan since the 1970s, when conductor Akeo Watanabe often presented them in television programmes. “At concerts in Japan, the conductor or some other music expert often introduces the pieces to be played and explains their place in music history. When you’re crossing cultural or stylistic borders, it’s important to help audiences to shake off their prejudices,” Kimanen notes. When Kimanen decided to raise the small Kuhmo Chamber Music Festival to a world-class level in the

T R N

LESLIE KEE

Japanese violonist Akiko Suwanai has a unique ability to capture the spirit of Sibelius’s music.

SIBELIUS FOR JAPAN

In November 2015, Conductor Hannu Lintu leads the Finnish Radio Symphony Orchestra on an Asian tour. The concerts will focus on Sibelius’s symphonies and tone poems, as well as his Violin Concerto. The soloist will be Japanese violinist Akiko Suwanai. Dates of FRSO concerts in Japan: ● November 2, Tokyo (Triphony Hall) ● November 3, Shizuoka ● November 4, Tokyo, Suntory Hall (televised by NHK) ● November 6, Yamaguchi ● November 8, Osaka yle.fi/aihe/rso-english

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“Immer hautnah dabei” (“Always close to the action”) by artist Robert Lucander, acrylic and pencil on panel 1980s, he expanded the programme from classical and romantic works to also include aleatoric, serialist and minimalist music. He invited leading contemporary composers to take part, including Russia’s Sofia Gubaidulina, Hungary’s György Kurtág and Estonia’s Arvo Pärt. “For listeners who are unaccustomed to them, atonality, dissonance and new shades of sonic colour can be alarming. With Watanabe in mind, I wondered if I should arrange lectures introducing the works ahead of these new-music concerts. I decided on a different solution, though,” says Kimanen. Kimanen invited musicians, singers and dancers from Mongolia, Vietnam, Japan, Korea and China to Kuhmo. Compared to the fascinating Asian tradition, European contemporary music did not seem so strange, even to the most conservative members of the audience. “In a way, the Beijing Opera opened up listeners’ ears to Karlheinz Stockhausen’s compositional language,” says Kimanen.

This summer and fall, Finnish classical and contemporary classical music will be performed all around Europe as the Baltic Sea Youth Philharmonic and MDR Leipzig Symphony Orchestra, both under baton of Kristjan Järvi, have chosen compositions by old and new Finnish masters for their tour programmes. One of the season’s highlights will be a performance of Selim Palmgren’s Piano Concerto No. 1 in the Gewandhaus Leipzig, with pianist Pauli Kari and MDR Lepzig Symphony Orchestra on June 21. This will be the kick-off for a project that will unveil Palmgren’s work to German and eventually to international audiences. Performances, broadcasts and recordings for Palmgren’s concertos Nos. 1 – 5 will be scheduled. Another Finnish highlight will be the worldpremiere of the GREEN Concerto by Finnish composer Severi Pyysalo performed by Pauli Kari and the Baltic Sea Youth Philharmonic at the opening of the Usedom Music Festival in Germany on 19 September. The festival is focusing on Finland this year. Summer Solstice Celebration June 21, Gewandhause, Leipzig, Germany Usedomer Musikfestival September 19–October 10, Usedom, Germany

explaining that he was born in Finland but has chosen to live in Berlin. “I also tell them that I paint on wood because Finland’s economic edge in international competition is based on the forest industry. Sometimes my listeners take this as a joke, sometimes they don’t,” he says. Lucander stayed in Berlin after completing his studies nearly 30 years ago, and no longer considers himself to be a Finnish artist. “I get inspirations for my works from the environment in which I live. In an artist’s work, the most essential thing is picking up quiet signals, living with your senses open. I try to teach this to young artists,” he says. Lucander points out that great artSATIRICAL ists have always taken on influences Robert Lucander AMBASSADOR from beyond their own borders and Robert Lucander, a Finncreated order out of chaos. ish-born artist and pro“For instance, Akseli Gallen-Kalfessor at the Berlin University of the Arts, is often lela, who is considered Finland’s national artist, was obliged to take on the role of cultural ambassador. familiar with both the European and Asian art tradi“In April I was in Málaga, Spain with some students tions. He brought Japanese influences into Finnish art. to set up an exhibition. The city’s mayor mentioned in His friend Jean Sibelius, meanwhile, composed works passing that it might be nice if I stopped by at a cultural that still have resonance in Japan.” event. It turned out to be a Christian Democratic Party Lucander stresses that cultural exports are governed by the same rule as other exports – they are event focusing on Spain’s economic policies. To my surimpossible without imports. prise, I had to speak to about 500 people on the topic of “Perhaps we should also consider whether national German-Spanish cultural cooperation,” recalls Lucander cultures even exist,” he muses. “After all, ‘cultural with a laugh. export’ is quite a haughty expression.” l Lucander often begins his presentations by

“I get inspirations for my works from the environment in which I live.”

66 BLUE WINGS SUMMER 2015

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SAY GOODBYE TO HAIR LOSS How a new pill can boost your hair and self-confidence cutting-edge science and has been thoroughly tested. Three of the key ingredients in TRX2® – zinc, selenium and biotin – are officially recognized by the European Commission as contributing to the maintenance of normal healthy hair. The effects can be impressive. According to pre-clinical study* conducted by scientists, TRX2® works for 87% of men and women. Start TRX2® as early as possible in order to see results sooner. TRX2® is suitable for men and women of all ages. The crystalline white capsules come in a brown glass bottle, which is sufficient for one month supply and costs starting from €49 if ordered online. The manufacturer offers a money-back guarantee when ordered via TRX2’s official website, and ships worldwide.

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be global. be one. 850 destinations around the globe. As a Finnair Plus member, you can be everywhere you need to be. Learn more at oneworld.com

member of airberlin American Airlines British Airways Cathay Pacific Iberia Japan Airlines LAN Malaysia Airlines Qantas Royal Jordanian S7 Airlines ONEworld benefits are available only to passengers on scheduled flights that are both marketed and operated by a ONEworld member airline (marketed means that there must be a ONEworld member airline's flight number on your ticket). For information on ONEworld, visit www.oneworld.com. Air Berlin, American Airlines, British Airways, Cathay Pacific, Finnair, Iberia, Japan Airlines, LAN, Malaysia Airlines, Qantas, Royal Jordanian, S7 Airlines, and ONEworld are trademarks of their respective companies. LAN Colombia is currently not part of ONEworld.

KATJA PANTZAR

DESTINATION FINLAND

Taking a dip in the Pellinge Archipelago from fisherman Martin Tillman’s dock

PORVOO’S COASTAL HAVEN The natural beauty of the Finnish Archipelago inspires artists, celebrities and international travel bloggers.

TEXT BY KATJA PANTZAR

ust beyond the medieval town of Porvoo, a popular tourist destination about 50 kilometres from Helsinki, lies a lesser-known but equally photogenic destination: the Pellinge Archipelago in the Gulf of Finland. Here, Finnish-Swedish artist and writer Tove Jansson (1914–2001) best known as the creator of the loveable Moomins – the carefree and adventurous soft-snouted characters who live in Moominvalley – spent many summers.

Selfie by Fotostrasse travel bloggers Felipe Tofani and Marcela Faé

70 BLUE WINGS SUMMER 2015

British comedian and TV travel show host Griff Rhys Jones was so smitten by the Finnish Archipelago that he told the Telegraph newspaper it was one of the most fascinating places he’d ever visited: “Nobody outside Finland seems to know about it. But the thing I love most about the archipelago is that it’s so unspoilt.” CLICHÉ-BREAKER Berlin-based Brazilian bloggers Marcela Faé and Felipe Tofani first travelled to the Pellinge Archipelago in September 2014 as part of #TravelHousePorvoo. “Before visiting Finland, I envisioned a cold, harsh, snow-covered country,” says Tofani, an art director who runs the Fotostrasse travel blog with his wife Marcela Faé, a professional photographer. “Visiting Porvoo changed that notion: the islands were beautiful, as was the colour of the sea, the rock formations and the pine trees – it wasn’t something I was expecting and it was amazing,” he says. Another element of surprise unfolded in the form of jokamiehenoikeus or “everyman’s right,” which is the right of the general public to access public and private land for recreation throughout Finland. “We really were not expecting that islands such as

KATJA PANTZAR

Äggskär are public and work more like a park,” says Tofani. “In Brazil, an island like this would belong to the wealthy and nobody would be able to visit it. I really appreciate the fact that Finland works in a different way.” Local tour operators such as fisherman Martin Tillman provide boat excursions to Äggskär Island that include a warm lunch of freshly made salmon soup. Alternatively, Tillman opens up his own island home to guests where a private restaurant, sauna and swimming dock can accommodate larger groups. When Tofani’s underwater camera was lost on a dive off Tillman’s dock and retrieved two weeks later from the seabed by the area’s diving club, Tofani became something of a local celebrity. But it was nature that made the biggest impression on him. “I come from a city in the middle of Brazil, Belo Horizonte, surrounded by mountains, and even though I went to the beach on many vacations, it was never like this. I loved the way the rocks, sea and pine trees create this visual I had never seen before,” says Tofani. l visitporvoo.fi pellinge.net

FOTOSTRASSE BLOGGERS’ TOP 3 TIPS 1. Walk through the cobblestone streets of Old Porvoo, which dates back to 1380. 2. Bike to Sikosaari National Park. 3. Go to the Archipelago – it is truly beautiful.

Äggskär Island is open to all.

fotostrasse.com

VantaaSmoothly www.vantaa.fi

JUMP ON THE NEW RING RAIL LINE ”KEHÄRATA” AND VISIT... Myyrmäki Street Art

Kivistö

Housing Fair

Aviapolis

Finnish Aviation Museum

Airport

Tikkurila Heureka

Ilmoitusmyynti: Oy Suomen Myyntitieto Ab | P. 09-7742 330

Annankatu 1, Helsinki www.hotelanna.fi info@hotelanna.fi Tel. +358 9 616 621

Close. Yet different.

KOTI MATKALLASI • 1 hh alk. 49 €/vrk • 2 hh alk. 59 €/vrk • Tervetuloa! Kodikas Hotelli AVA sijaitsee rauhallisessa ympäristössä Helsingin Vallilassa. Hotellista on sujuvat yhteydet mm. ydinkeskustaan, Helsinki-Vantaan lentoasemalle ja Messukeskukseen. Viihtyisissä huoneissamme on langaton internet-yhteys, modernit taulutelevisiot elokuvakanavineen, suihkut ja osassa huoneista on jopa oma keittiö. Tyylikkäissä saunatiloissamme rentoudut päivän päätteeksi. Tarjoamme asiakkaillemme myös ilmaiset parkkipaikat.

Just an hour’s drive from the bustle of the metropolis lies a fascinating maritime idyll and old towns filled with old-fashioned wooden houses. Perfectly close for a true adventure. www.visitraseborg.com Helsinki Raseborg

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Osta Omaksi Pala Kuusamoa! Tutustu talo- ja huvilamallistoomme ja löydä lähin Kuusamo-myyjäsi osoitteessa: www.kuusamohirsitalot.fi

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Ilmoitusmyynti: Oy Suomen Myyntitieto Ab | P. 09-7742 330

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Valuutanvaihto Kattojen varustamisen ja huollon edelläkävijä

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Daily at 12h ❘ 8.6.-9.8.2015 HELSINKI MUSIC CENTRE

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WORLD ON YOUR PLATE

LONG LIVE SMØRREBRØD

TEXT BY MIKKO TAKALA PHOTO BY TOMMI ANTTONEN

he most remarkable contribution Denmark has made to gastronomy has to be smørrebrød. For years, these open-faced sandwiches were considered old school, but now some of the hippest restaurants and cafés around Copenhagen have resurrected smørrebrød ‒ and started to serve their own interpretations. “There are two schools of thought: the trendy variety from restaurant Aamanns and the traditional style of which Schønnemann is the finest example,” says food writer Ole Troelsø, the author of the Insider’s Guide to Smørrebrød and the man behind the annual smørrebrød competition. If you only have time for one place, try Schønnemann, one of Copenhagen’s oldest eateries, which is known for its extensive menu of smørrebrød. Their Classic Pariserbøf, inspired by steak tartare, is a favourite. A thin slice of bread is fried in butter, topped with a slightly fried meat patty minced from the finest beef tenderloin, and then served with beetroot, piccalilli, capers, grated horseradish, onions, and a raw egg yolk. Simple, yes, but absolute bliss. l

Restaurant Schønnemann Hauser Plads 16

restaurantschonnemann.dk

74 BLUE WINGS SUMMER 2015

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FINNAIR NEWS

PACKING UP Remember to check that your carryon baggage is within size and weight limits. See details at: finnair.com

COMPILED BY KATJA PANTZAR ISTOCK/DMITRY PISTROV

Tel Aviv is one of the new low-fare Light destinations.

TOP 3 DESTINATIONS

3 x the Med

Split Perched on the turquoise waters of the Adriatic Sea, Croatia’s second largest city offers a perfect stopover or starting point for some serious island hopping.

TICKETS

More Light destinations Finnair’s hand baggage-only low fare has been expanded to include flights throughout Europe and the Middle East, with the exception of Russia. “Since we introduced Light fares on domestic, Scandinavian and Baltic routes this March, we have seen a positive reaction from customers who tend to travel without checked baggage on short trips,” says Tomi Hänninen, Vice President, RevVR GROUP

enue Management and Pricing. Light ticket holders can purchase an extra checked baggage allowance in advance or at the airport. Finnair Plus Silver, Gold and Platinum members and oneworld Emerald and Sapphire members travelling with Light tickets are allowed one piece of checked baggage free of charge. finnair.com

Malta The small Mediterranean island country just south of Sicily mixes prehistoric temples with secret coves and pockets of lively nightlife.

TRANSPORTATION

Airport express

THE NEW RING RAIL LINE connecting Helsinki Airport to Helsinki Central Railway Station is slated to open this July. The 18-kilometre light rail link will increase access to stations in the Greater Helsinki area, with the trip from airport to city centre taking about 30 minutes. hsl.fi/en

76 BLUE WINGS SUMMER 2015

Crete Greece’s largest island – once the centre of the Minoan civilization in Europe – merges rugged mountains with glorious beaches such as Elafonisi, voted one of the world’s top stretches of sand. finnair.com

EDESSÄ ELÄMÄN ENSIMMÄISET 5 METRIÄ. H ETK I Ä , J OTK A JÄ ÄVÄT E L Ä M Ä Ä N .

aurinkomatkat.ﬁ

FINNAIR NEWS

SPECIAL MEALS If you have special dietary requirements, Finnair will provide you with a special meal. Please submit your order no later than 24 hours before departure.

COMPILED BY KATJA PANTZAR

Finnair crew tips Inflight supervisor and avid traveller Marjaana Saksela shares her top 3 peak experiences from around the world:

Top 3 mountains:

Nokka translated WRITTEN BY SILJA KUDEL PHOTOS BY PANU PÄLVIÄ

SUPER FINNISH, super fresh: This sums up the culinary philosophy of Ari Ruoho, creator of Finnair’s latest signature menu served up in Finnair Business Class as of late July. Ruoho is Executive Chef de Cuisine at Nokka, a top Helsinki restaurant virtually fanatical about using only the freshest artisanal ingredients from local suppliers. “I wanted to take the same recognisable elements and translate them into a gourmet in-flight experience. And the translation succeeded surprisingly well, even if I do say so myself,” says Ruoho. Not that the task wasn’t challenging. “Serving a fresh-tasting inflight menu isn’t the same as whisking a plate straight from the oven to the table. There are many movTWEET OF THIS MONTH

Ari Ruoho of restaurant Nokka.

ing parts to consider along the journey from kitchen to aircraft.” From the goat cheese-laced pumpkin soup to the melt-in-your-mouth slowcooked pork neck, every detail in the fivecourse menu was selected to preserve maximum freshness, even in the event of an unforeseen delay on the tarmac. And the pike-crayfish terrine crowned with caviar? Seafood lovers, taste it and weep. Ari Ruoho’s signature menu, ‘Harvest Time’, will be served on long-haul flights from Helsinki, July 29-October 24, 2015 finnair.com

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FEELFINNAIR ON INSTAGRAM

MOUNT HUASHAN Located about 120 kilometres from Xi’an, China, this mountain had the craziest cable car ride I’ve ever taken. Once up at the top, the outstanding scenery made it totally worthwhile!

MOUNT KOYA About two and a half hours from Osaka, Japan, lies the perfect place for relaxing and having a “timeless” moment with 136 temples, some of which offer accommodation – I recommend Sjojoshin-in.

LLAFRANC Nestled north of Barcelona, Spain, this picturesque little town by the beach is in a region full of fantastic small historical towns and magnificent mountains.

Finnair fun facts

Now you can iOS share your travel itinerary:

twitter.com/Finnair

Bonjour! We’ve arrived safely in #Geneve. @nellahelsinki️ #feelfinnair instagram.com/feelfinnair

78 BLUE WINGS SUMMER 2015

Find the best travel tips for Poland’s top cities:

facebook.com/finnair

WHEN THE NEW YORK route was opened in 1969, it was flown via Copenhagen or Amsterdam. Today the nonstop flight from Helsinki to New York takes just over

8 hours – half the time it did in 1969.

FLY FINNAIR

Your complete guide to travelling with us

WELCOME ABOARD We want you to enjoy your flight. This guide contains all the information you need for stress-free travelling. We have even included tips for inflight wellbeing and entertainment. So sit back, relax and enjoy your travel experience.

FLY FINNAIR INFLIGHT SHOPPING

SUMMER

In this guide 80 TIPS FOR TAKEOFF 81 INFLIGHT WELLBEING 82 ENTERTAINMENT 83 SHOPPING 84 SUSTAINABILITY 85 HELSINKI AIRPORT 88 MAPS 92 FLEET 94 FREQUENT FLYERS 98 FINLAND IN FIGURES SUMMER 2015

BLUE WINGS

FLY FINNAIR TIPS FOR TAKEOFF

FINNAIR

TRAVEL TIPS

in a nutshell

TIMO RISSANEN, Head of Service Concept — Ground Service, began his career at Finnair in 2002. “The summer holiday season is once again upon us! Baggage allowance on Finnair flights vary from 0 to 3 pieces. If you are wondering how much baggage you are allowed free of charge, just go to Manage Booking or Baggage Calculator on our website. If you happen to have excess baggage, you can easily pay in advance for extra allowance directly from our site (at prepaid prices). Once at the airport, use our fast and easy Self-Service Bag Drops available in Helsinki and Oulu.”

Established in 1923, Finnair is one of the world’s oldest operating airlines. Finnair’s route network includes more than 50 international destinations. In 2014, Finnair carried 9.6 million passengers. More than 1.5 million passengers fly between Asia and Helsinki each year.

For more information, go to finnair.com

SAFETY

IN YOUR POCKET THE NEW FINNAIR MOBILE APP is now available for iOS and Android devices. The app provides up-to-the-minute flight information and e-boarding pass storage. Check-in on your mobile to avoid the queues, upgrade your travel class and view Finnair Plus point balances. Simply log in with your Finnair Plus member ID. Go to finnair.com to learn more and see all the features.

80 BLUE WINGS SUMMER 2015

SMOOTH JOURNEY SAFETY INFORMATION is presented by the cabin crew at the start of each flight. This information is also listed on the safety instruction card in your seat pocket. Safety belts must remain fastened when the “Fasten safety belt” sign is on. For safety reasons we recommend keeping them fastened even when the sign has been switched off. Handheld devices can be used throughout the flight (including takeoff and landing) in airplane-mode. Laptops and larger devices must be stowed away during takeoff and landing, but can be used when the “Fasten safety belt” sign has been switched off.

FLY FINNAIR INFLIGHT WELLBEING

FOOD AND DRINK

Business Class passengers can enjoy Signature Menus created by top Finnish chefs. Next up is Ari Ruoho of restaurant Nokka whose ‘Harvest Time’ menu will be served from July 29 to October 24. Read more on page 78.

EAT WELL

Foods to fuel on European flights THE RENEWED SKY BISTRO MENU IS AVAILABLE! Arrive at your destination restored and energised. For a little extra money, you can choose from a tasty selection of food and drink. You will find the Sky Bistro menu card in your seat pocket. Coffee, tea, water and Finnair’s signature blueberry juice are served free of charge on all Finnair flights.

MINDFULNESS Sit back and relax

WELLBEING

INFLIGHT EXERCISES

These moves keep you fit while flying. Hold each movement for a few seconds and repeat five times per side.

CIRCLES

LIFT

RAISE

LOWER

Lift one foot and draw circles with your toes. Reverse direction.

Lift one knee up and then lower your foot back down to the floor.

Keep heels on the floor and lift your toes upwards, then release.

Keep toes on the floor and lift your heels upwards, then release.

Mindfulness instructor Aleksi Litovaara's exercises will help you feel calm and rested during the flight.

BE AWARE The basic idea of mindfulness is that you have arrived. The aircraft is already taking you where you need to be so just sit back and relax. Watch, listen and feel your present environment without judgement – just be aware of it.

TACKLE ANXIETY If you experience nervousness or restlessness, try holding and feeling an object in your hand. It will help bring your attention to the simple physical sensation instead of getting caught up in your own thoughts.

BREATHE EASY Focus on your breath. Think of the word “peace” when inhaling, and of the word “calmness” when you exhale. You can also try the 7/11 method: count to seven when breathing in, and to 11 when breathing out. It will have a balancing effect on your nervous system.

SHRUG

NOD

ROTATE

TURN

Lift your shoulders up towards your ears and release.

Lower your chin slowly towards your chest and lift back up again.

Gently rotate your head from side to side. Keep your shoulders relaxed.

Slowly lower your left ear to your left shoulder and then back up again.

aleksilitovaara.com

SUMMER 2015

BLUE WINGS

FLY FINNAIR ENTERTAINMENT

SUMMER

WATCH TIME FLY

Make the most of your flight with your personal entertainment system. Use your handset or touchscreen to choose from 72 movies, 150 TV shows, 15 games and a wide selection of music.

PICK OF THE MONTH MOVIE FOCUS (2015). During a veteran con man’s latest scheme, a woman from his past shows up and throws his plans for a loop. The content may not be suitable for younger passengers. (Finnish subtitles, Rating R)

ON SCREEN Latest films and TV series

MOVIE AVENGERS: AGE OF ULTRON. When Tony Stark tries to jumpstart a dormant peacekeeping programme, things go awry and it is up to the Avengers to stop the villainous Ultron. (Rating PG-13)

MOVIE CHAPPIE. In the near future, crime is patrolled by mechanized police. One of them begins to think and feel for himself. (Rating R) MOVIE CINDERELLA. A live-action retelling of the classic fairy tale about a servant stepdaughter who wins the heart of a prince. (Rating PG)

NEW PERSONAL entertainment systems are available on Airbus A330 and Airbus A340 aircraft. Just one click and you can choose your favourite from movies to music and games. Available language tracks depend on the programme; some programmes include Finnish and Chinese subtitles.

You can also track your flight’s progress with the Airshow moving map. Entertainment systems may vary by aircraft. On scheduled intercontinental flights, headphones are available free of charge. On leisure flights (AY1000 series), there is an entertainment fee, which includes headphones.

KIDS PICK

Fun for the little ones SHAUN THE SHEEP MOVIE When Shaun decides to take the day off and have some fun, he gets a little more action than he bargained for. A mix up leads him to the Big City and it’s up to Shaun and the flock to return everyone safely to the green grass of home. (Rating PG)

82 BLUE WINGS SUMMER 2015

TV SERIES SPONGEBOB SQUARE PANTS. Something Smells: In this episode, SpongeBob makes a sundae that gives him bad breath. TV SERIES THE BIG BANG THEORY. Howard and Raj try to get to the bottom of why Sheldon disappears every afternoon at 2:45. Meanwhile, Leonard and Penny wrestle with jealousy in their relationship.

RADIO SINGAPORE SLING. The perfect accompaniment to enjoy with a cocktail or two. With music from Capital Cities, Faye Wong, Sarah Aqilah, Wale and more. Enjoy more music at mixrad.io.

PLUG IN!

Most Airbus A340 aircraft and all Airbus A330 aircraft are equipped with an electricity socket, which you will find under your seat.

FLY FINNAIR INFLIGHT SHOPPING

SWEET DELUXE BRACELET TURQUOISE Available in pre-order shopping catalogue €19.90

DESIGUAL TRAVEL WALLET Available in pre-order shopping catalogue €49

LINDT DIVA JEWELLERY, 182 G Available in pre-order shopping catalogue €17

ESCADA TURQUOISE SUMMER, EDT 30 ML Available in pre-order shopping catalogue €32.50

SUMMER SALE -15% Pre-order for your next flight TAKE ADVANTAGE of our summer sale and receive a 15% discount on any pre-order purchase (made and paid) June 15 — July 31. You can pre-order your f avourite products, including alcohol, in advance online (www.finnairshop.com) or fill in the pre-order form during your outbound flight. Payment is made to the cabin crew when receiving the products so travel must be between the above dates. Happy shopping!

SAVE EVEN MORE Finnair Plus tier members receive an additional 10% discount during the summer sale. Show your Finnair Plus Platinum, Gold or Silver card to get the discount!

TRAVEL BLUE NECK PILLOW, PENGUINE Availabe in pre-order shopping catalogue €17.90

DAIM POUCH, 300 G Available in pre-order shopping catalogue €6.50

NICOLAS FEUILLATTE, BRUT RÉSERVE COMPASS SLEEVE LIMITED EDITION, 0.75 L A vailable in pre-order shopping catalogue €29.50

PRE-ORDER

Shopping made easy CALVIN KLEIN, REVEAL MEN, EDT 50 ML Available in pre-order shopping catalogue €44

BOSS BOTTLED, DEO STICK, 3 X 75 ML Available in pre-order shopping catalogue €39

Pre-ordering your favourite products is stress-free. There’s no minimum order and your purchases will be waiting at your seat on your next flight! www.finnairshop.com

SUMMER 2015

BLUE WINGS

FLY FINNAIR SUSTAINABILITY

BETTER PLANET A few examples of Finnair’s societal involvement in action:

THE UNITED NATIONS Global Compact is a corporate responsibility initiative aiming to make human rights, fair labour standards, environmental responsibility and anti-corruption core parts of the participating companies’ operations. Finnair has been a member since 2103. The airline company has also signed the United Nations Women’s Empowerment Principles in 2011.

UNICEF COLLABORATION BEARS FRUIT FINNAIR HAS SUPPORTED UNICEF’s work to improve the lives of children worldwide since the 1990s. The airline’s travellers have raised more than 1.2 million euros for UNICEF through the annual Change for Good Campaign. Since November 2014, passengers have had the opportunity to contribute a sum of their choice to UNICEF when booking a flight. The online donation platform has been developed by Amadeus, an information system supplier for the travel industry. Over the past six months the initiative has raised 20,000 euros. Donations go to support UNICEF’s Schools for Asia Initiative, which supports the

WORK WITH US

DO GOOD Finnair makes it even easier to donate to charity. Passengers can now make a donation to UNICEF Finland when they book their flights on the Finnair website. Donations are possible in sums of one, five or ten euros. Finnair also collaborates with many other environmental and humanitarian organisations.

84 BLUE WINGS SUMMER 2015

education of the most disadvantaged children in 11 countries. “We are happy to be communicating the human rights mission of UNICEF to our stakeholders,” says Kati Ihamäki, Finnair’s VP of Sustainable Development. “In all of our partner projects we aim to involve and engage different groups of stakeholders and thus benefit as large a societal scope as possible. Co-operation can change the world.” Donate to Schools for Asia when booking your flight, or put your Finnair Plus points towards another good cause.

IN 2015 Finnair will receive its first four Airbus A350 aircraft, which will cut back on fuel consumption and emissions by 25 per cent. FINNAIR is one of the first airlines in the world to receive an IATA Environmental Assessment (IEnvA) certification; this environmental management system is designed to assess an airline’s environmental management.

THE AIRLINE supports the International Air Transport Association’s (IATA) goal of zero emissions trading scheme. Finnair is dedicated to reducing its carbon dioxide emission revenue as much as 20 per cent per tonne-kilometre from 2009 to 2017. Another ambitious goal is to reduce the total amount of de-icing fluids by 40 per cent from 2006 to 2016.

pointshop.finnair.com

embers of Finnair’s frequent flyer M programme can still donate points to the following charities at pointshop.finnair.com: • The Finnish association for Nature Conservation • The Association of Friends of the University Children’s Hospitals • The Cancer Society of Finland • The Finnish Red Cross • UNICEF Finland • The Baltic Sea Action Group • Hope

FINNAIR CONDUCTS an annual employee well-being survey, participates in campaigns promoting equal opportunities at the workplace and places a strong focus on occupational safety and continuous training.

FINNAIR WAS INCLUDED on the Carbon Disclosure Project's (CDP) 2014 A List: The 2014 Climate Performance Leadership index for its efforts to reduce emissions and slow climate change. Among the 187 businesses included, Finnair was the only airline.

FLY FINNAIR HELSINKI AIRPORT

HAPPY LANDINGS Arriving and departing Helsinki Airport

PASSENGERS at Helsinki Airport can use the 30 automated border control gates. Fifteen of these are located in the departure hall. The Finnish Border Guard’s automated border control helps serve growing passenger volumes at Helsinki Airport. EU, EEA, Japanese and Swiss nationals with biometric passports can take advantage of the automated border control gates. Other foreign nationals, who are exempt from the visa requirement and hold a biometric passport, may also use the automated border control upon departure. This service is available for Australian, Canadian, Japanese, New Zealand, South Korean and U.S. citizens. The automated border control is monitored by a border guard ensuring secure border crossings. Please note that passengers travelling with an infant, baggage trolley or wheelchair must use the manual border control lane.

AUTOMATED BORDER CONTROL Place your passport with the info page face down on the reader. Please wait while your passport is being read for biographical and biometric data. When the scan is complete, the gate will open. ヘルシンキ・ヴァンター空港シェンゲンエリアでは、入出国審査の際に自動化ゲートをご利用頂けます。対象となるのはICパスポートをお持ちのお客様です。

대한민국 전자여권을 소지한 승객께서는 유럽에서 한국으로 입국 시, 헬싱키 공항에서 자동출국심사 서비스를 이용 하실 수 있습니다.

① パスポートの顔写真ページを読み取ります。該当ページを読み取り機の上に置いて下さい。個人情報と生体認証データを読み取ります。

우선, 전자여권의 사진 페이지를 인식장치에 올려주시기를 바랍니다. 이 과정에서 여권정보가 시스템에 자동 인식됩니다.

② ゲートが開いたら中に入り、右を向いて下さい。パスポートの顔写真と照合します。バックパック・帽子・眼鏡などは外して下さい。足跡マークの上に立って画面を正面からまっすぐに見て下さい。 ③ 二番目のゲートが開いたら、入国審査官のカウンターにお進み下さい。パスポートを確認した後、入国または出国スタンプを押印致します。シェンゲンエリア居住許可証をお持ちの方は、入国審査官にご提示下さい。

finnair.com/jp

첫 번째 게이트가 열리면 안으로 들어가 오른쪽에 위치한 카메라로 안면인증을 거치게 됩니다. 이후 마지막 게이트에서 출입국관리 직원의 출국확인도장을 받으시면 됩니다. 보다 간편하고 빠른 본 자동시스템의 많은 이용 바랍니다. 대한민국 전자여권은? 2008년 8월 25일 이후 발급된 여권으로 표지 하단부에 전자칩과 안테나가 내장 되어 있는 여권입니다.

finnair.com/kr

Enter through the gate and turn right. Please remove your backpack if you’re wearing one and stand on the footprints on the floor. Remove your glasses and hat. Stand still and look directly at the screen keeping your face visible. The camera will compare your facial image with the biometric feature scanned from your passport. Wait until the second gate opens. The border check for EU, EEA and Swiss nationals is completed when the gate opens. Other foreign nationals must move towards the border guard, who will check your entry stamp and mark your passport with an exit stamp.

SUMMER 2015

BLUE WINGS

FLY FINNAIR HELSINKI AIRPORT

WELCOME TO HELSINKI AIRPORT HOW TO TRANSFER Check your gate and departure time on the airport monitors. All Finnair and Flybe departures are located in the same terminal. If you don’t have a boarding pass for your connecting flight, please contact the transfer service desk. Most passengers transferring from non-EU countries to EU countries have to go through security and passport control. Please note that liquids are restricted in carry-on baggage. If your baggage has not been checked through to your final destination, collect it from the baggage claim area and go to check-in and security control. AUTOMATED BORDER CHECKS are available to passengers with biometric passports. The service is available for Australian, Canadian, EEA, EU, Japanese, New Zealand, South Korean, Swiss, and U.S. citizens. See more information on page 85. Border control

FINNAIR TRANSFER SERVICE desks in Helsinki Airport T2 terminal are ready to help you with any inquiries related to your connection flights. TRANSFER SERVICE

BUS CONNECTIONS The Finnair City Bus to the Helsinki Railway Station leaves from Terminal 2 every 20 minutes, stopping also at Terminal 1. Travel time is about 30 minutes. Price: €6.40

CHECKING IN Checking in to your Finnair flight is easy. You can save time by checking in at a self-service stand at the airport, online 36 hours before departure or by text message. FLIGHT DISRUPTIONS In case a flight is delayed or cancelled, Finnair will make every effort to keep you updated. Please make sure that you have provided Finnair with your email address and phone number.

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34 35

SHOP

32a

Security control

SHOP

31a-e 30

31x 31

Border control

SHOP

LONG-HAUL AREA NON-SCHENGEN

Bo con

TRANSFER SERVICE 3

2ND FLOOR 36

FINNAIR LOUNGE FINNAIR PREMIUM LOUNGE 37

Lähettäjä Aihe Vastaanotettu Koko Luokat liisa.saarni@galateia.fi Kutsu matikkasopalle ti 19:51 131 kt

2ND FLOOR

37a-d

GROUND FLOOR

During 2015 the Helsinki airport will renovate most of the shops, cafés and restaurants for your greater enjoyment. Thank you for your patience!

SERVICES AND FACILITIES

TRAVEL TIPS

Make the most of your time SHOP SHOPPING Receive special offers for airport services when you show your Finnair Plus card. You will recognise our partners by the Finnair Plus symbol. Helsinki Airport features more than 30 shops and boutiques and various restaurants and cafés.

WIRELESS INTERNET is available free of charge. An eService Bar is located across from gate 21. CHILDREN Children’s playrooms offer videos, microwave ovens and baby care facilities. NON-SMOKING Smoking at Helsinki Airport is prohibited outside of designated smoking rooms.

SHOP

FLY FINNAIR HELSINKI AIRPORT WALKING TIME GATE 24-30: 7 MIN

T2 29

LOST AND FOUND Restaurant & Deli Fly Inn

26 SHOP

SCHENGEN AREA

SHOP

GATE AREA

Security check

TRANSFER SERVICE 2 SHOP

23 SHOP

FINNAIR LOUNGE

Security

order ntrol

CHECK-IN 240–270

SHOP

INQUIRIES Lentäjäntie 1 (next to T2, street level) Open Mon–Fri 09:00–17:00 and Sat 09:00–15:00 Tel 0600 41006 (1,97€/min + local network charge)

FINNAIR check CHECK-IN/ SERVICE DESKS 201–232

GROCERY

3RD FLOOR

1ST FLOOR

SHOP

TOURIST INFO

PHARMACY

17 16

TRANSFER SERVICE 1

JUUSO NORONKOSKI

CHECK-IN 101–114

GROUND FLOOR

Security check

BAGGAGE STORAGE

RING RAIL LINE NEW SERVICE TO HELSINKI AIRPORT The Ring Rail Line to the airport starts on July 1st. Before the terminal entrance at the airport opens in the autumn, there will be free shuttle buses operating to terminals T1 and T2 from the Tietotie station. The route takes ten minutes and the buses run at a five minute interval.

GATE AREA

2ND FLOOR