FIRST DECEMBER 2021 ISSUE No 330 by FIRST Magazine (Malta)

ISSUE 330 DECEMBER 2021

A CAPSULE OF THE WORLD

SILENT NIGHT

“AND THOSE WHO WERE SEEN DANCING WERE THOUGHT TO BE INSANE BY THOSE WHO COULD NOT HEAR THE MUSIC.” Friedrich Nietzsche

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EDITORIAL

SILENT NIGHT

Silent night! Holy night! All is calm, all is bright Round yon virgin mother and child! Holy infant, so tender and mild, Sleep in heavenly peace! Sleep in heavenly peace!

uccio is considered one of the greatest Italian painters of the Middle Ages. He began to break down Byzantine art's sharp lines, softening the figures, playing with light and dark colours to reveal the figures under the heavy drapery. With Duccio hands, faces, and feet become more threedimensional and less schematic. In 2004, this painting by Duccio of the Madonna and Child was purchased by the Metropolitan Museum of Art, in its most expensive purchase ever, for more than $45 million. This work inaugurates the grand tradition in Italian art of envisioning the sacred figures of the Madonna and Child in terms appropriated from real life. The Christ Child gently pushes away his mother's veil, revealing a sorrowful expression which reflects her foreknowledge of his crucifixion. The drapery enhances their three-dimensional, physical presence and the parapet connects the sacred world of the painting with the temporal one of the viewer. The bottom edge of the frame reveals candle burns from candles lit over many years in which the painting would have been used as a devotional item (source: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York).

“Those who dream by day are cognizant of many things which escape those who dream only at night.” Edgar Allan Poe, Eleonora ON THE COVER: Johannes Vermeer, The Girl with a Pearl Earring, 1665. Mauritshuis, The Hague. In spring 2023, the Rijksmuseum, the national museum of the Netherlands, will dedicate a retrospective exhibition to the 17th-century master Johannes Vermeer for the first time in its history. See page 14. THIS PAGE: Duccio di Buoninsegna, Madonna and Child, ca. 1290-1300. Tempera and gold on wood, 23.8 x 16.5 cm. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. EDITORIAL CONTENT AND SALES MANAGER SEAN ELLUL SELLUL@INDEPENDENT.COM.MT DESIGNER CONRAD BONDIN CBONDIN@INDEPENDENT.COM.MT PRODUCTION MANAGER ANDRE CAMILLERI ACAMILLERI@INDEPENDENT.COM.MT PUBLISHER STANDARD PUBLICATIONS, STANDARD HOUSE, BIRKIKARA HILL, ST JULIAN’S. TEL: 00356 2134 5888, WEB: WWW.INDEPENDENT.COM.MT FACEBOOK FIRSTMAGAZINE INSTAGRAM FIRSTMAGAZINEMALTA PRINTER PRINT-IT. FIRST IS PUBLISHED AS A COMPLIMENTARY MAGAZINE WITH THE MALTA INDEPENDENT ON SUNDAY AND IS NOT TO BE SOLD SEPARATELY. NO PART OF THE PUBLICATION MAY BE REPRODUCED WITHOUT THE PRIOR AGREEMENT OF THE PUBLISHER. FIRST MAGAZINE SINCE 1993. ISSUE NUMBER 330.

CONTENTS

The Master of Light: Vermeer. The Milkmaid, Johannes Vermeer, c. 1660. Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam.

14 Inside award winning nature photographer Johan Siggesson’s new coffee-table book: ‘Marvellous Malta – Where Wild Orchids Grow’. Photograph © Johan Siggesson.

Inside the World’ s Greatest Chemist. Florence’s Officina ProfumoFarmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella. Photograph © Francesco Dolfo.

THiS IS WiNE 4th chapter in this issue

EXCLUSIVE SERIES: THIS IS WINE. SAINT ESTÈPHE IN CHRISTMAS. In this photo: Château Lafon-Rochet in St Estèphe dates back to the 17th century. Photograph © François Poincet.

FLORIDA: Interiors Inspiration from Beachside Windsor Architecture. Photograph Jessica Klewicki Glynn, courtesy Vendome Press.

SWINGING FLAMINGOS IN AMSTERDAM. Inside Hotel Estheréa’s rich interiors. Photograph courtesy Hotel Estheréa.

CONTENTS [ISSUE 330. DECEMBER 2021]

800 Years of History. Inside the World’ s Greatest Chemist.

Ritzy Business. The Art of the Aperitif. Aperitif Nibbles with Mediterranean Culinary Academy.

APOTHECARY

VERMEER

Master of Light. Vermeer and the Girl with a Pearl Earring.

APERITIF

HEALTH & FITNESS Let’s go Outdoors.

Swinging Flamingos in Amsterdam. Inside the boutique Hotel Estheréa.

Wild Maltese Orchids.

TRAVEL

AGATHA CHRISTIE

The World of Hercule Poirot.

INTERIORS

Tropical living at its most chic. Interiors Inspiration from Beachside Windsor Architecture.

ENVIRONMENT AWARENESS

DIAMONDS

The Historical Marie Antoinette Diamonds.

The World of Agatha Christie’s Hercule Poirot. Istanbul sets the ball rolling for Christie’s iconic Murder on the Orient Express. Photograph Meric Dagli.

THIS IS WINE

SAINT ESTÈPHE IN CHRISTMAS.

The 4th chapter in This is Wine: its storied place and taste.

Somewhere over the Rainbow… A Land Beyond Pomerol. Château la Fleur de Boüard.

The Historical Marie Antoinette Diamonds. Photograph courtesy Christie’s © Christie’s Images Limited 2021.

Ritzy Business. The Art of the Aperitif with Mediterranean Culinary Academy. Photograph Robert Pace.

APOTHECARY

800 YEARS OF HISTORY

Inside the World’s Greatest Chemist Florence's iconic Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella can trace its roots back to 1221. In that year, Dominican friars founded the convent of Santa Maria Novella, and began to cultivate – among other things – a garden. From that same garden, many centuries of experience in pharmacopoeia and natural preparations began to develop. And in later years that experience would expand to include the worlds of cosmetics, fragrances and wellness products. Photography courtesy Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella, main photography Francesco Dolfo.

This page: Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella's entrance from Via della Scala, Florence, with a floral installation. Photograph © Alfonso Catalano. 9

APOTHECARY

tepping inside the doors of Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella on Florence's Via della Scala is to take a step back in time and to indulge in an olfactory experience like no other. As soon as you open the large doors you are enveloped by a mesmerizing scent of luscious rose and a myriad of scents from natural oils and extracts. If you close your eyes you feel as if you could be carried away by melody of scents. Indeed Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella has been hypnotising customers for centuries with perfumes and products that trigger emotions and memories. This page: Florence’s Officina Profumo – Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella is Europe’s oldest apothecary’s shop. Photograph © Francesco Dolfo. 10

APOTHECARY

Top: During a delicate period of Italian history, the former chapel of San Niccolò was restored and transformed into the current Great Sales Hall. Photograph © Francesco Dolfo. Bottom left and right: The Sacristy of the Chapel of San Niccolò was converted into a storeroom as early as 1612, the year in which the Officina took its current name and became Foundry of His Royal Highness. In it were kept the aqueous products from the distillation of herbs and roses, called “waters”. Hence the name by which it was called: “The Room of Waters”. Photographs © Francesco Dolfo.

APOTHECARY

Above: The “Green Room” at Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella in Florence. Photograph © Francesco Dolfo.

ince 1221 Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella has been creating, producing, and distributing perfumes and cosmetics, as well as liqueurs and products for health and well-being, making it, most likely, the oldest continuously operating pharmacy in the world. In 1221, the Dominican friars were granted use of Santa Maria Inter Vineas (“Saint Maria Among the Vines”), a small church outside the city walls, along with a few small houses and a plot of land used as a vegetable garden. The friars were also entrusted with land which had been abandoned during the early Middle Ages, land which would be brought back to life thanks to the cultivation of the herbalist friars of Santa Maria Novella. From the beginning, the friars were devoted to cultivating the semplici, or “simple” herbs and medicinal plants, to be transformed into medicines, ointments, and balms for the small monastery infirmary. In the 14th and 15th centuries, the medicinal and pharmaceutical activities of Santa Maria Novella continued to flourish. It became such an important centre of Florentine life that the protagonists of Giovanni Boccaccio’s Decameron, fleeing the plague of 1347-1348, met in the basilica there. In 1332-1334, the nobleman Dardano Acciaioli was stricken by a serious illness and was cured by the Dominican friars with an extract of bearberry. Out of gratitude, he donated a magnificent chapel dedicated to San Niccolò, with a frescoed sacristy – a place that still belongs to the Officina and is at the heart of the museum-shop in Via della Scala in Florence. The first record of the production and sale of “perfumed waters” with medicinal properties dates back to 1381. The decades of the plague were particularly harsh and the Dominican friars began distilling Rose Water, used both to sanitize rooms and for personal care as a mild medicine, diluted with wine or taken as pills. In the middle of the 15th century, “herbs and roses were distilled”, and it was here at Santa Maria Novella, that the history of modern perfume began. In 1533, when the young Catherine de’ Medici left Florence to marry Henry II of Valois, she summoned the perfumer Renato

Bianco, known in Paris as René the Florentine, to follow her. In that year l’Aqua della Regina was created, and its citrus fragrance, embodying the elegance and grace of Florence, captivated the courts of France. The “Acqua della Regina”, or Queen’s Water, one of Santa Maria Novella's iconic products, is a tribute to the generous patron. The first secular management of the convent pharmacy of Santa Maria Novella dates back to 1542. The pharmacy's accounts became independent from those of the convent, and the doors of the pharmacy “officially” opened to the public. In 1612, it was formally recognized with the name Officina ProfumoFarmaceutica by the Grand Duke of Tuscany, who granted the Officina the title of Foundry of His Royal Highness. In the 19th century, the Officina passed from the Dominican friars to public ownership on two occasions. The first time was due to the Napoleonic decrees that banned all religious orders, and the second and final time came in 1866 with the Unification of Italy when the pharmacy space became municipal property and management was passed to a layman, Cesare Augusto Stefani. It was also in the 19th century that the Officina’s products gained international acclaim in a period of tremendous growth and innovation. Alongside traditional medicinal products, cosmetic and personal care products such as balms, ointments, soaps and perfumes became extremely popular. Most recently in 2020 a majority stake in Officina ProfumoFarmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella was acquired by Italmobiliare – an investment holding that enhances the value of important Made in Italy brands – and in October this year Italmobiliare completed the acquisition of Officina ProfumoFarmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella, as part of a process to develop the company and accelerate the international expansion of an iconic brand. Even with the new ownership the brand remains deeply interwoven with the cultural, artistic, scientific, industrial, and commercial history of the city of Florence, and stepping inside the famed doors on Florence's Via della Scala is to take a step back in time and to indulge in an olfactory experience like no other. 13

VERMEER “He saw things in a way that others did not, so that a city I had lived in all my life seemed a different place, so that a woman became beautiful with the light on her face.” Tracy Chevalier, Girl With A Pearl Earring

MASTER OF LIGHT

Vermeer and the Girl with a Pearl Earring In the spring of 2023, the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam will dedicate a retrospective exhibition to the 17th-century master Johannes Vermeer for the first time in its history. With loans from all over the world, this promises to be the largest Vermeer exhibition ever. Photography courtesy Rijksmuseum.

ohannes Vermeer (1632-1675) lived and worked in Delft. His work is best known for his tranquil, introverted indoor scenes, his unprecedented use of bright, colourful light and his convincing illusionism. In contrast to Rembrandt, Vermeer left a remarkably small oeuvre with about 35 paintings. As his paintings are generally considered the most prized treasures of every museum collection, Vermeer paintings are rarely lent out. The Rijksmuseum itself has four masterpieces by Vermeer, including the world-famous Milkmaid and The Little Street. The Rijksmuseum's exhibition in 2023 promises to be the largest Vermeer exhibition ever, and will include masterpieces such as The Girl with a Pearl Earring from the Mauritshuis in The Hague, The Geographer from the Städel Museum in Frankfurt, Lady Writing a Letter with her Maid from The National Gallery of Ireland in Dublin, and Woman Holding a Balance from The National Gallery of Art in Washington DC. Works never before shown to the public in the Netherlands will include the newly restored Girl Reading a Letter at the Open Window from the Gemäldegalerie Alte Meister in Dresden. The exhibition is a collaboration between the Rijksmuseum and the Mauritshuis in The Hague, and with preparations currently underway, both museums will conduct research into Vermeer's artistry, his artistic choices and motivations for his compositions, as well as into the creative process of his paintings. Taco Dibbits, director of the Rijksmuseum, said: “Vermeer is one of the most famous painters in the Netherlands, along with Rembrandt, Van Gogh and Mondrian. We would not have thought it possible that so many museums are willing to lend their masterpieces. With this exhibition we can introduce a new generation to Vermeer's painting at the highest level and present the results of the latest research.” Martine Gosselink, the director of the Mauritshuis, said: “The Girl with the Pearl Earring is the most famous Dutch girl worldwide. Yes, we will miss her terribly, but a Vermeer exhibition without The Girl is simply not a Vermeer exhibition.”

Pearls feature in 21 of Vermeer's pictures, including very prominently in Woman with a Pearl Necklace. Earrings alone are also featured in A Lady Writing a Letter, Study of a Young Woman, Girl with a Red Hat and Girl with a Flute. Similarly shaped ear-pieces were used as convincing accessories in 20th-century fakes that were briefly attributed to Vermeer, such as Young Woman with a Blue Hat, Smiling Girl and The Lace Maker. In The Girl with a Pearl Earring, the pearl is too large to be real, and is probably an imitation. Vermeer painted it with just two strokes of white paint, and nothing more, not even a hook.

NOTES FROM THE MAURITSHUIS “Girl with a Pearl Earring is Vermeer’s most famous painting. It is not a portrait, but a ‘tronie’ – a painting of an imaginary figure. Tronies depict a certain type or character; in this case a girl in exotic dress, wearing an oriental turban and an improbably large pearl in her ear. Johannes Vermeer was the master of light. This is shown here in the softness of the girl’s face and the glimmers of light on her moist lips. And of course, the shining pearl.” Facing page: The Girl with a Pearl Earring, Johannes Vermeer, 1665, oil on canvas, h 44.5 x 39 cm. Mauritshuis, The Hague. 14

VERMEER

NOTES FROM THE RIJKSMUSEUM “This is an unusual painting in Vermeer’s oeuvre, and remarkable for its time as a portrait of ordinary houses. The composition is as exciting as it is balanced. The old walls with their bricks, whitewash, and cracks are almost tangible. The location is Vlamingstraat 40-42 in Delft. Vermeer’s aunt Ariaentgen Claes lived in the house at the right, with her children, from around 1645 until her death in 1670.” This page: View of Houses in Delft, Known as ‘The Little Street’, Johannes Vermeer, c. 1658, oil on canvas, h 54.3 × w 44cm. 16

VERMEER

NOTES FROM THE RIJKSMUSEUM “A maidservant pours milk, entirely absorbed in her work. Except for the stream of milk, everything else is still. Vermeer took this simple everyday activity and made it the subject of an impressive painting – the woman stands like a statue in the brightly lit room. Vermeer also had an eye for how light by means of hundreds of colourful dots plays over the surface of objects.”

This page: The Milkmaid, Johannes Vermeer, c. 1660, oil on canvas, h 45.5 × w 41cm. 17

VERMEER

NOTES FROM THE RIJKSMUSEUM “Enjoying a quiet, private moment, this young woman is absorbed in reading a letter in the morning light. She is still wearing her blue night jacket. All of the colours in the composition are secondary to its radiant lapis lazuli blue. Vermeer recorded the effects of light with extraordinary precision. Particularly innovative is his rendering of the woman’s skin with pale grey, and the shadows on the wall using light blue.” This page: Woman Reading a Letter, Johannes Vermeer, c. 1663, oil on canvas, h 46.5 × w 39cm. 18

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BEAUTY

Celebrating 100 years of N°5 CHANEL HOLIDAY 2021 COLLECTION

A complex fragrance blend, a streamlined bottle, a number for a name. When Gabrielle Chanel invented N°5 in 1921, she created a fragrance unlike any other, instantly ushering the fragrances of the era out of fashion. With N°5, Mademoiselle broke free of convention and revolutionized the world of perfumery. An olfactory masterpiece that paved the way for modern perfumery, N°5 is the manifestation of a resounding success, as well as a fabulous story of self-fulfillment. In 2021, to celebrate this fragrance turned legend and its 100 years of celebrity, the House of CHANEL has designed a collection of exclusive, limited-edition creations.

BEAUTY

N°5 LIMITED EDITIONS N°5 has sparked wonder for over 100 years and lives as a reminder of the absolute freedom of the creator who made it a success. In 1921, Gabrielle Chanel decided to pare N°5 down to the essentials. The bottle, box and label are devoid of any superfluous ornamentation. N°5 is the most fascinating embodiment of the House’s spirit. 100 years later, CHANEL has created a new and unique version of N°5 Eau de Parfum. For the first time ever, the bottle incorporates recycled glass, while still keeping its incomparably pure, sparkling, transparent look. The product of a long-standing partnership with POCHET du COURVAL, a Living Heritage Company (Entreprise du Patrimoine Vivant), this high-quality glass was obtained using an innovative recycling technology. The box has also been redesigned. Made with biodegradable paper pulp, it feels sensuous to the touch and closely enfolds the distinctive shape of the legendary bottle. Lastly, Mademoiselle Chanel’s lucky number, 5, is inscribed in gold on the label of this exclusive reinterpretation. The same concept applies to N°5 L’EAU, one of 5 interpretations of the fragrance created by In-House Perfumer Creator Olivier Polge, whose label is adorned with a silver number 5.

N°5 HOLIDAY MAKEUP COLLECTION 2021 CHANEL’s Makeup Creation Studio was inspired by the style codes of N°5 for its HOLIDAY 2021 collection, which celebrates the golden amber color of the fragrance and combines it with shades of black, white, and red, the color of life. Now, wearing N°5 not only means enjoying the sensuous experience of applying fragrance, but also wearing warm, luminous makeup, complete with an intense red lip. Emblematic of this approach is the Les 4 Ombres eye palette, which has been reinvented as a N°5-themed, limitededition release, with shades inspired by the colors of the perfume bottle. ROUGE ALLURE is also available in new packaging that celebrates N°5. Opulent, sensual, fascinating, it becomes all the more desirable.

TRAVEL

SWINGING FLAMINGOS IN AMSTERDAM Dream away with the richly coloured interiors, the crystal chandeliers, the luxurious fabrics and the expressive prints in the boutique Hotel Estheréa, housed in a row of 17th-century buildings along Amsterdam's oldest canal, the Singel. The gorgeously layered plush interiors provide the perfect inspiration for a cosy look this Christmas. Photography courtesy Hotel Estheréa. 23

TRAVEL

magine yourself in a truly authentic Amsterdam ambience in this beautiful 17th-century building along Amsterdam’s oldest canal: the Singel. None of the rooms at Hotel Estheréa are the same, and each and every one of them has been lovingly designed and decorated. This boutique hotel has been run by a family for more than 75 years and quite a few things have changed over the years. Hotel Estheréa was founded by Maria Flieger-Gruyters. She decided to move to Amsterdam following the death of her husband during World War Two, and she looked after a guest house on behalf of its owner, who had been forced to go underground. This was the start of Estheréa. The guest house – which started with just 12 rooms – continued to expand every time Maria had the opportunity to buy an adjoining property. This allowed it to develop into the hotel it is today, with 91 rooms and 2 suites. The building is now included on UNESCO’s world heritage list and has undergone a significant transformation. However, the one thing which has definitely remained over the course of time is a true family feeling, authenticity and an eye for detail.

2021 National Book Prize Winners Announced he winners of the 2021 National Book Prize were announced this December at a ceremony held at the Auberge de Castille under the auspices of the Office of the Prime Minister and attended by the Permanent Secretary for the Ministry for Education Dr Francis Fabri. The National Book Prize is presented annually by the National Book Council with the aim of celebrating the highest achievements in literary and research publishing in Malta.

In his opening address, the National Book Council (NBC) Executive Chairperson Mark Camilleri welcomed all National Book Prize finalists to an awards ceremony that was once again gathering authors and publishers under one roof – a ceremony that also commemorates the 50th anniversary since the National Book Prize was first awarded in 1971. Camilleri noted that despite the challenges which the previous year brought on the local book industry, the number of publications produced in 2020 was heartening and that the ceremony would also be in recognition of the resilience of Maltese publishing. Camilleri affirmed that 2021 was another year of rigorous work for the Council and that his primary objective in his new role is to see the Council strengthened to be able to better support the industry, and renewed through synergies with other entities and public institutions. Above all else, the National Book Council will be open to any collaboration out of which Maltese publishing will benefit at present and in the future. Camilleri congratulated all finalists adding that the shortlisted books competing for the National Book Prize, authored by new and established authors, are representative of the excellent standards that the industry continuously strives for. The winning titles have been selected by independent adjudication panels from a shortlist of 46 titles, published in the preceding year, across eight competitive categories. WINNER OF THE CATEGORY NOVELS IN MALTESE AND ENGLISH GIOELE GALEA – IN-NAR GĦANDU ISEM: NOTI MINN PAĠNA INTIMA WINNER OF THE CATEGORY SHORT STORIES IN MALTESE AND ENGLISH LARA CALLEJA – KISSIRTU KULLIMKIEN WINNER OF THE CATEGORY POETRY IN MALTESE AND ENGLISH CARMEL SCICLUNA – L-AMBJENT LI QERIDNA: POEŻIJI (2017-2020) WINNER OF THE CATEGORY DRAMA IN MALTESE AND ENGLISH PRIZE NOT AWARDED

WINNER OF THE CATEGORY TRANSLATION PAUL ZAHRA – MIX-XAQLIBA TA’ DAR SWANN – ISMIJIET TA’ PAJJIŻI: L-ISEM WINNER OF THE CATEGORY LITERARY NON-FICTION IMMANUEL MIFSUD, TONI SANT – JIEN – NOTI – JIEN: ĦSEJJES U STEJJER WINNER OF THE CATEGORY GENERAL RESEARCH GIUSEPPE SCHEMBRI BONACI – The Beheading of Ignez: Katabasis, Ezra Pound and Three Maltese Artists WINNER OF THE CATEGORY BIOGRAPHICAL AND HISTORIOGRAPHICAL RESEARCH MARTIN MICALLEF (Ed.) – CRUX INVICTA: IL-KURĊIFISS MIRAKULUŻ U L-KAPUĊĊINI F’GĦAWDEX PRIZE FOR THE BEST BOOK PRODUCTION MIDSEA BOOKS – The Addolorata Cemetery PRIZE FOR THE BEST EMERGING AUTHOR STEPHEN LUGHERMO Author of young adult novels, books for children, and the short-story collections Ċelel Bla Ħitan LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT AWARD FOR CONTRIBUTION TO LITERATURE DR RENA BALZAN On the occasion of the National Book Prize’s 50th anniversary, the Permanent Secretary for the Ministry for Education Dr Francis Fabri spoke of the strong ties linking national identity and the country’s literature. He stressed the importance of writers’ and publishers’ contributions towards the development of national identity which they help shape with their works; a living and dynamic identity such as that of Malta’s also relies on writers’ continued efforts to renew it with observations that capture the country’s social, political, and economic realities. Dr Fabri concluded his address with reference to the words by the French philosopher Jean-Paul Sartre on how written words are in themselves action, commitment, and the impetus for change in the reader and the community. The National Book Council would like to thank the members of the jury who served on the adjudication board for the 2021 National Book Prize; Prof. William Zammit, Mr Mario Ellul and Ms Maria Giuliana Fenech for the categories of General Research, Biographical and Historiographic Research and Literary Non-Fiction, Mr John Grech, Dr Stephen Bonanno and Ms Rowna Baldacchino for the literary categories, and Malta Libraries CEO Ms Cheryl Falzon for the classification. The NBC also extends its thanks to Dr Nicole Bugeja, Ms Kristy Borg and Ms Ruth Ancilleri, the adjudicators of the Premju Terramaxka for children and adolescents which was awarded during the opening night of the 2021 Malta Book Festival.

AGATHA CHRISTIE

THE REFUGEE DETECTIVE WHO STOLE BRITAIN’S HEART

Poirot at 100

A hundred years ago, Agatha Christie introduced British readers to a small man with an impeccably maintained moustache who, with the help of his “little grey cells”, was very good at solving crimes. That man, of course, was Hercule Poirot, who made his debut in Christie’s first novel, The Mysterious Affair at Styles, in 1921. Though potentially the second most famous detective in British culture (after Sherlock Holmes), Poirot is not British at all but a refugee. Coming to England as part of a group of Belgians displaced by the first world war, his origins lie in Brussels. Writing about this retired Belgian police officer solving cases around the UK and across the globe, Christie was able to explore (and at times poke fun at) the complexities of Englishness and its relationship to continental Europe, writes Christopher Pittard, Senior Lecturer in English Literature, University of Portsmouth.

THE WORLD OF AGATHA CHRISTIE’S HERCULE POIROT Initially Christie was an unsuccessful writer with six consecutive rejections, but her 1921 novel – The Mysterious Affair at Styles, featuring detective Hercule Poirot marked a turning point in here career. She married her first husband Archibald Christie in 1914 and had one child before divorcing in 1928. During both World Wars, she served in hospital dispensaries, acquiring a thorough knowledge of the poisons which featured in many of works. ISTANBUL, BELGRADE, ZAGREB: MURDER ON THE ORIENT EXPRESS. In Christie’s iconic Murder on the Orient Express Poirot has to return from Istanbul to London via the Orient Express. One a murder is discovered which he is asked to solve before the train reaches Yugoslavia. This page: Istanbul, photography Ahmet Kahveci. 27

AGATHA CHRISTIE

uropean flair. On the surface, Christie’s novels resemble a nostalgic retreat to the pastoral and to the English stately home. They can be read as a possible turning-inwards thanks to an emphasis on closed rooms and detailed floor plans of grand buildings. But such appearances are deceptive. The opening of borders, both literal and intellectual, shapes Christie’s England. It was her understanding of the work of European thinkers that gives her detective an edge. Where an English detective, like Sherlock Holmes, looks for external pieces of evidence that can be analysed, Poirot solves the case by realising the hidden implications of people’s behaviour – including his own. Poirot’s Freudian focus on the psychology of suspects enables him to see that simple mistakes and slips of the tongue can hide deeper meanings. In The Mysterious Affair at Styles, a crucial

clue is revealed when Poirot realises the importance of his own almost unconscious instinct to tidy. In Christie’s world, the typically English common sense of policemen is not enough to solve the mystery. Instead, a dash of continental theory sheds light on what lies beneath the surface. Another of Poirot’s trademarks is his occasional struggle to find the correct English word or idiom. In The Mysterious Affair at Styles, he even misquotes Hamlet. Yet it would be a mistake to read these moments as simple errors. Instead, Poirot knowingly plays into the trope of the “funny foreigner”, using difficulties with language to disarm suspects and allay fears of suspicion (how could such a comic figure be so great a detective?). In the famous scenes where Poirot explains the truth, his English becomes markedly more fluent. In this, Poirot represents the outsider perfectly placed to see through English deceptions.

Agatha Christie was born into a wealthy upper-middle-class family in Torquay, Devon, and was largely home-schooled. Her holiday home in Greenway, near Brixham, is now owned by the National Trust and open for vistors. SOUTH DEVON – TORQUAY & BURGH ISLAND: EVIL UNDER THE SUN Partially inspired by Burgh Island, in this classic mystery Poirot takes a quiet holiday at a secluded hotel in Devon and is drawn into investigating the murder of one of the guests. This page: Burgh Island, photography George Hiles.

AGATHA CHRISTIE

ittle England. The success of the “funny foreigner” schtick with unsuspecting English plays into Christie’s larger exploration of Englishness in her books. Poirot is an enthusiastic devotee of England. In The Murder of Roger Ackroyd he comments that England is “very beautiful, is it not?” But this enthusiasm is not always returned. A running joke of the Poirot novels and adaptations is that he is often mistaken as French. In Ackroyd, he is described as looking “just like a comic Frenchman in a revue”. But in a genre that demands close attention to detail, the joke here is at the expense of a particularly inwardlooking type of Englishness, those who cannot tell the difference between the French and the Belgian. Likewise, as literary scholar Alison Light notes, Poirot’s popularity coincides with the expansion in travel, as the English increasingly saw themselves as tourists abroad. Several of Poirot’s most famous cases occur on modes of transport and in exotic locations, like Death on the Nile. However, while the English in these stories might be abroad, class relations from home still manage to play out wherever they might be. England follows them, and that inward-looking Englishness runs deep.

After marrying archaeologist Max Mallowan in 1930, she spent several months each year on digs in the Middle East. This first-hand knowledge of his profession would feature in her fiction. EGYPT: DEATH ON THE NILE Christies’s 1937 book death on the Nile finds Poirot holidaying on a cruise down the Nile and investigating the murder of a wealthy heiress. This page: Great Pyramid of Giza Khufu and Cheops, Cairo, photography Jeremy Bezanger. 29

AGATHA CHRISTIE

hile Christie might have poked fun at England and Englishness, she managed to capture the hearts of British readers with her small, smart Belgian. Poirot was so loved by readers that Christie wrote 33 novels, two plays, and more than 50 short stories about him between 1921 and 1975. ITV’s adaptation of many of these stories, Agatha Christie’s Poirot starring David Suchet, ran for 25 years (1989-2013) and is also now considered a classic of British TV. Few fictional detectives have had their complete adventures adapted for the screen. In this regard, Poirot makes a strong claim to being Britain’s most loved detective. The article ‘Poirot at 100’ first appeared on The Conversation. Supplementary information compiled by First Magazine.

Poirot’s cases took him all over Europe, North Africa and the Americas, staying at the best hotels, and travelling by the most exclusive means of transportation. This was very much a reflection of Christie’s own travels. SOUTH OF FRANCE: THE MYSTERY OF THE BLUE TRAIN Travelling on the luxurious Blue Train, Poirot has to solve the murder of a young heiress who was strangled and robbed on her way to the South of France. This page: The Negresco, Nice, photography Lucas D.

MELITA Silver Bullion The Central Bank of Malta, in collaboration with Lombard Bank Malta p.l.c., is issuing Malta’s first silver bullion coin. The obverse of the coin portrays “Melita” inspired by the 1922 postage stamp by Edward Caruana Dingli, while the reverse depicts the coat of arms of the Republic of Malta. The coin has been struck by PAMP mint of Switzerland, in 999.0 Fine Silver, being the purest silver possible. It weighs 10 ounces (311.03g) and bears a legal tender value of €10. The issue limit is set at 500. Technical Details Weight

Alloy

Diameter

Quality

Face Value

Thickness

Year of Issue

10oz (311.03g)

999.0 Fine Silver

79.5mm

€10

6mm

2021

Actual Size

Enquiries: e-mail info@maltacoins.com or Telephone: 25581163.

www.lombardmalta.com • www.maltacoins.com

INTERIORS

Tropical living at its most chic

INTERIORS INSPIRATION FROM BEACHSIDE WINDSOR ARCHITECTURE The planned community of Windsor, located on a lush barrier island between the Indian River and the Atlantic Ocean in Vero Beach, Florida, offers elegant yet casual seaside living at its best. This sublimely landscaped village, founded by W. Galen and Hilary M. Weston and planned by the renowned New Urbanists Andrés Duany and Elizabeth Plater-Zyberk, boasts houses by A-list architects and top interior designers, among them John Stefanidis, Steven Gambrel, Amanda Lindroth, Tom Scheerer, and Alessandra Branca. This new book Beachside pulls back the curtain, as it were, to highlight for the first time the domestic world of Windsor: the houses. Thanks to the perceptive lens of photographer Jessica Klewicki Glynn and the keen reportage of author Hadley Keller, these pages reveal the stylistic gamut that runs through the enclave. Consider it the ultimate resource for inspiration for elegant yet casual living, filled with open space and light. Photography Jessica Klewicki Glynn, courtesy Vendome Press.

This page: A large-scale Alex Katz portrait overlooks the living room in a house decorated by Rod Mickley. The room also features several works by Christo and Jeanne-Claude. 32

INTERIORS

Above: With its soaring ceiling, this living room in a house designed by architect Hugh Newell Jacobsen makes a unique backdrop for Rob Pruitt’s Autograph Collection. Left: In this living room, built-in shelves didn’t stop the owner, a former art adviser in the Bahamas, from hanging canvases, layering them atop an assortment of blue-and-white china.

indsor is a private residential sporting club community spanning 472 acres of lush barrier island between the Indian River and the Atlantic Ocean in Vero Beach, Florida. Established in 1989 by W. Galen and Hilary M. Weston, Windsor was designed by renowned town planners Andrés Duany and Elizabeth Plater-Zyberk in the New Urbanism style of residential living. New Urbanism is a planning and development approach based on the principles of how cities and towns had been built for the last several centuries: walkable blocks and streets, housing and shopping in close proximity, and accessible public spaces. Windsor includes public and community spaces framed by timeless architecture and landscape design that celebrates its tropical and unspoiled setting. Windsor is comprised of 350 homesites in various styles, including village homes, cottages and country estates, all remarkable for their signature AngloCaribbean architecture and gracious living. Altogether, over three decades, the community has been built by a dream team of architects and designers. “Windsor looks like an authentic town because it has been designed by many hands,” says Duany.

INTERIORS

“T

hough Windsor’s public buildings have been featured in many publications, the private side has not been widely seen - until now. Beachside pulls back the curtain, as it were, to highlight for the first time the domestic world of Windsor: the houses. Thanks to the perceptive lens of photographer Jessica Klewicki Glynn and the keen reportage of author Hadley Keller, these pages reveal the stylistic gamut that runs through the enclave,” writes James Reginato in the Introduction. Though there are a variety of building types – village houses, cottages, country estates – their sizes, heights, and styles are strictly regulated by the Windsor Code. The exteriors, Anglo-Caribbean in style, feature steeply pitched roofs, open eaves, cantilevered balconies, vertically proportioned windows and doors, small windowpanes, exterior walls in neutral colours, and palm-shaded courtyards and pools. The interiors, all executed with exquisite craftsmanship and appointed with fine finishes, range in style from traditional to sleekly contemporary.

Above: Covered in mosaic tile, this corner of a courtyard is an inviting setting for an alfresco meal. Right: A wall of African acacia conceals storage and provides an organic backdrop for modern furniture in a living room by architect Brad Lynch for a design-savvy family.

WHATEVER YOU WISH FOR THIS CHRISTMAS...

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INTERIORS

Above: On the cover, Dan Ford’s beautifully landscaped, drought-resistant plantings surround a central reflecting pool in the courtyard of a home designed by Scott Merrill.

ith this in mind, the architectural guidelines have challenged designers to find ways to break the mold inside, to create unique interiors. Beachside presents a wide array of the houses, organized by room. From bougainvillea-framed entrances to airy living and dining rooms to cozy studies and bedrooms that open onto balconies with sweeping ocean views, it will inspire anyone yearning for a stylish coastal life.

Top left: A pair of vintage Arne Jacobsen Swan chairs (1958) face a large scale painting by Canadian artist Landon Mackenzie. Far left: An outsized nude by Tracey Emin makes a dramatic statement over a minimal dining room in an oceanfront home by Clemens Bruns Schaub. Left: Comprised of thirty-seven hand-blown orbs, a multicolor chandelier by Omer Arbel (which requires its own ceiling support) reflects the tones in paintings by Michael Adamson. Top right: Josef Frank’s exuberant Citrus Garden fabric was the jumping-off point for the living room in designer Britt Taner’s family home. Lacquered lampshades and a sideboard in tomato red give a jolt to the room, whose barn-style architecture is fairly bare-boned. Right: A sculptural counterbalance pendant by Florian Schulz was hung over the island to add dimension and dynamism to this all-white kitchen.

INTERIORS

Above: The ocean-facing veranda of a home decorated by Steven Gambrel offers up plenty of seating for guests on furniture with a nautical palette. Left: Many Windsor homes have French doors that can be thrown open to extend dining spaces to the outdoors.

ABOUT THE AUTHORS: Hadley Keller, a writer and editor specializing in design and decorating, is Digital Director at House Beautiful. She began her career at Architectural Digest, where she worked first as a market editor and then as a design reporter and news editor for AD PRO. James Reginato is a writer-at-large for Vanity Fair, a contributor to Sotheby’s magazine, and former features director at W. He is the author of Great Houses, Modern Aristocrats. Jessica Klewicki Glynn is an award-winning photographer whose work appears in Architectural Digest, Milieu, Galerie, House & Home, Traditional Home, and Coastal Living. Her books include Palm Beach Chic. Beachside: Windsor Architecture and Design by Hadley Keller, Introduction by James Reginato, Photography by Jessica Klewicki Glynn. Published by Vendome Press. Hardcover with jacket, 272 pages, 225 colour illustrations.

EASY PAYMENTS TREASURED MEMORIES

Talk to us | 2131 2020 | bov.com Issued by Bank of Valletta p.l.c., 58, Triq San Żakkarija, Il-Belt Valletta VLT 1130. Bank of Valletta p.l.c. is a public limited company regulated by the MFSA and is licensed to carry out the business of banking in terms of the Banking Act (Cap. 371 of the Laws of Malta). | COM 2598

ST ESTÈPHE The fourth chapter in This is wine: its storied place and taste.

“Fruit of the earth, work of human hands, blessed be God forever” FRANCE – BORDEAUX – LEFT BANK – HAUT MEDOC – ST ESTÈPHE

SAINT ESTÈPHE IN CHRISTMAS

St Estèphe is the largest appellation and on paper has some of the least classified chateaux, only five 1855 Classifications of the major Medoc regions, but in terms of quality and appreciation, it holds its own with the best. Perhaps what best describes the region is not what it gives us just in terms of wine, but the courage and ambitious flair in winemaking that some winegrowers are bestowed with to compete with more enshrined chateaux, writes Kris Bonavita. This page: Tour Pey-Berland, Bordeaux - Saint-André Cathedral's original 12th century tower was insufficiently squat to support the weight of the tenor bell and in 1440 a dedicated free-standing tower was built next to the cathedral. Photograph Clement Roy. 43

THIS IS WINE n the final scene of the macabre movie, Hannibal, Dr Lecter played by Anthony Hopkins, flying economy class, has taken self-catering to a new level when he makes provisions with a luxury food hamper that apart from Osetra caviar, recherché cheeses and exotic fruit, has a half bottle of St Estèphe, Château Phelan Segur 1996 no less, to accompany his pot of brain. He morbidly goes on to advise an inquisitive young passenger who was curious about his repast that ‘It is always important to try new things’. While it’s probably not the right tone to be extolling culinary advice given by consummate serial killers; it does sort of conjure up images of where St Estèphe lies. The lesser-known region overshadowed by its more famous neighbours is often an afterthought to the more inquisitive, regardless of its equal esteem to those in the know.

t Estèphe is the largest appellation and on paper has some of the least classified chateaux, only five 1855 Classifications of the major Medoc regions, but in terms of quality and appreciation, it holds its own with the best. Perhaps what best describes the region is not what it gives us just in terms of wine, but the courage and ambitious flair in winemaking that some winegrowers are bestowed with to compete with more enshrined

chateaux. St Estèphe has the largest concentration of chateaux endowed with the more recent accolade of Cru Bourgeois status, 35 in all; more than all the other major Medoc regions combined. At the forefront of this philosophy is the rags to riches larger than life charisma of the family of one chateau, Haut Marbuzet, comfortably nestled between two Deuxieme Crus neighbours, Cos D’Estournel and Montrose.

‘THE MOST OBVIOUS Y ET SEX IEST WINES OF THE ENTIRE BORDEAUX REGION’

he one-time train master Herve Duboscq and his son Henri are credited with revolutionizing winemaking in St Estèphe. Herve at the height of the agrarian Post-war recession of the 1950s was able to buy a seven-hectare plot of an unclassified vineyard without forking out any cash; offering instead to pay with a quarter of his annual wine production. His ambition was not just to make great wine but to slowly but surely reacquire the various parcels of land to restore Château Haut Marbuzet to its former glory of around 75 hectares. This was not just a question of luck but bold and bonhomie winemaking where even the American wine critic Robert Parker cryptically described Haut Marbuzet as ‘the most obvious yet sexiest wines of the entire Bordeaux region’. While most wines in St Estèphe heavily relied on Cabernet Sauvignon, Herve, realizing the benefits of the clay-ridden soils, switched to a higher proportion of Merlot. He also recognized the

benefits of buying new oak barrels for aging to enhance flavour, a practice at the time reserved to top chateaux. While they had the fortune of being laden with exceptional terroir, the coup de grace was their style and philosophy of winemaking. Unlike many of the large corporate-owned chateaux in Bordeaux, Haut Marbuzet is rare in having an owner who hires no winemaker or consultant other than himself. Going against the grain: using only natural yeasts or adding some of the lesser quality grape juice to the main wine to add character (like musk to perfume) are just some of the riskier quirks that have paid off. Henri sums up his philosophy “For 50 years I have endeavoured to be a supplier of dreams through my wine and, if possible, a generator of voluptuousness.” And it is this voluptuousness that has wine critics up and down the Medoc and indeed around the world in twists.

A SUPPLIER OF DREAMS

he advancement of technological know-how coupled with centuries of winemaking traditions has resulted in performance wines that have never been so qualitatively consistent. Yet the drive towards perfect wine in so far as wine is considered a sum of quantifiable parts has resulted in an industry driven by wine critics expectations of how far a wine can age well and be worthy of investment as a commodity and to what extent wine is harmonious in every way even at the expense of character. There is a rigid adherence to concepts of balance or form in lieu of the spirit of the wine. St Estèphe defies this very definition in going beyond just the perfect and providing that very character or personality which in some instances has been termed rustic. Henri the heart and soul of the estate sums it all up in explaining that wine is not about perfection or wine critic ratings but rather about the pursuit of pleasure. There is an emotional dimension to wine beyond the analysis of aromas, flavours, body and structure. Terroir is everything in so far as the capability of winemaking is pushed to the limit, but winemaking styles determine the extent to which wine is enjoyable even in a not too aged way. St Estèphe a generation ago went down the path of its storied neighbour

Pauillac in producing the big strong astringent wines that can age well, but now it is more about being immediately seductive and sensually pleasurable regardless of its aging potential. The charm is in being faithful to making wine that is the best expression of its terroir but equally in instantly charming the drinker. In this sense wine is more an art than a science. The most beautiful moments in life are not about perfection but rather about recognizing something mysteriously beautiful in imperfectly random things. Whether it is a work of art, a piece of music, or a beautiful view or personal encounter; it is about a deeply emotional state where one is moved by recognizing oneself in the midst of that hallowed beauty; rarely is it about perfection. Wine is an encounter between the identity or persona in oneself and that which is found in wine. Wine gets us closest to the nature in us and the furthest from that in wine and vice versa. Nothing could be less natural and more adulterated; equally nothing so pristine and pure, than our complex cultured selves and equally that of wine. We are both products of nature and sophistication. Like all great art, we learn from wine in its conjured up complexity how infinitely small and simple we are; how infinitely great everything else is. And we are part of that is in the encounter.

ST ESTÈPHE

This page: Château Cos d'Estournel, one of the best producers in the Medoc, classified as one of fifteen Deuxièmes Crus (Second Growths) in the original Bordeaux Wine Official Classification of 1855. Top: The majestic pagodas of Cos d'Estournel. Bottom: The cellar, with vintages arranged like books under the watch of stone elephants. Photography courtesy Château Cos d’Estournel.

THIS IS WINE

This page – Top: Château Lafon-Rochet in St Estèphe dates back to the 17th century. Photography courtesy Château Lafon-Rochet, photographer Mathieu Garçon. Bottom: Château de Pez, perhaps the oldest Bordeaux wine-making estate in St Estèphe, created in 1452. Photography courtesy Château de Pez, photographer Gunther Vicente. 46

ST ESTÈPHE TERROIR: CAN WE TELL WINE IS FROM A CERTAIN PLACE?

erhaps, part of this process is our mysterious relationship with the enigmatic concept and belief in terroir. Terroir is the basis of wine to the extent that we wish to identify to what extent wine is a product of its location: the type and kind of geology, soil, surrounding flora and fauna, and climate at a micro and macro level; which influence the way vines and their grapes grow and attain specific defining characteristics. Elements, such as sun exposure, water retention or draining capacity, soil nutrition, tempering influences from harsh weather conditions or to ameliorate ripening and acidity, are just some of the considerations. Regional wine appellations work on the presumption that the land where grapes are grown imparts a unique quality. The moot million dollar question is to what extent is this identifiably the case. That is can we tell wine is from a certain place? Vine growers throughout the ages have always been aware that different regions growing the same grape variety produce very distinct wines and throughout the known historical period even from ancient times different parcels of land and their climate have been understood as ideal for specific grape varieties and specific methods of growth in getting the best expression of grape and wine with the given natural circumstances. So there is no question that terroir is an important aspect of the vine growing agronomy. Many of the boundaries of properties and parcels of land are determined by these very agronomic characteristics. Likewise in economic practice, the classification of regions and chateaux

is a de facto assessment of terroir and what grapes it produces. Cru is essentially terroir tried and tested over time. Great wines come from recognizable regions and chateaux because of great terroir. But winemaking styles and techniques paint a more complex picture and this is where the rise of unclassified chateaux and even New World winemaking stars challenge the traditional wine order. As such it is human intervention that best expresses for better or worse the characteristics of a place and this is beyond science but rather embedded in the history and culture that we like to identify with when drinking wine, which is always subjective. Wine is about collective memory and identity and this is where terroir is comfortably but anomalously at home. Soberly, there is a news bulletin recently doing the rounds of a parked truck in Normandy being broken into and 300 bottles or 25 cases worth of ‘quality wine, quite expensive, such as St Julien or St Estèphe, being stolen’ according to the local gendarmes. In a further development, an individual was discovered in some state in a ditch and police caught up with the getaway vehicle and five culprits arrested with no mention of any wine. This begs the question in the disappearance of all this wine, enquiring minds want to know, did any of the parties involved work out the nuanced differences between the terroir of St Estèphe and St Julien and if so were they more partial to either and which vintages. Further robberies may provide some groundbreaking answers.

TO THE BRAVE AND FAITHFUL NOTHING IS IMPOSSIBLE – FORTI ET FIDELI NIHIL DIFFICILE (OLD MOTTO OF HAUT MARBUZ ET). EX OTIC SPICE AND MINERALS – SAINT-ESTÈPHE WINE CARD

t Estèphe is the northernmost of the famous regions in the Haut Medoc, centred around the village of the same name on the left bank of the Gironde estuary. It is the largest Medoc region under vine with close to 1400 hectares and has 136 vine-growers, 56 of which produce wine. These include two Second Growth chateaux (Cos D’Estournel and Montrose) and three other lower Growths (Calon-Segur, Lafon-Rochet, and Cos Labory), over and above the majority of Cru Bourgeois classified chateaux in Bordeaux. In many instances, these lower classified wines (such as Haut Marbuzet and Phelan-Segur) offer better value and are easily of rivaling quality to the more established list. St Estèphe is separated from Pauillac by a stream and being further from the Garonne River has soils with heavier clay on a limestone base and less gravel and stones than its neighbours. The heavier clays result in poorer water drainage and delayed ripening and higher acidity levels in contrast to the more concentrated warmer gravel and stony soils of the other Left Bank regions. Of late many winemakers in the region have increased their Merlot holdings which performs better on clay and helps make softer more well-rounded wines. However, St Estèphe is predominantly a Cabernet Sauvignon blend with different chateaux combining different varieties to create their own distinct style. Other grapes grown in lesser quantities are Cabernet Franc, Carmenere, Malbec and Petit Verdot. The best recent vintages are 2016, 2010, 2009, 2005 followed by 2015, 2014, 2018, and 2006. Being the furthest north St Estèphe is often the last to harvest. In drought-ridden years such as 2003 and 2009 its waterretaining clay soils have meant its vintages were equally successful. It is important to note that because investment in the region is only something of the last few decades, the quality of wine has dramatically improved from the 1980s onwards. What was once seen as a rustic hard wine-producing area is certainly no longer the case. One fun fact is the only other French red wine other than Château Margaux to gain a distinction in a famous blind testing in the 1970’s was a St Estèphe Château Montrose. The terroir of St Estèphe is distinct from the rest of the Medoc. While typical of the Left Bank there is a predominance of sol de grave, a rich mixture of gravels, sands, rocks and clay; there is also a higher proportion of clay and silt. Within the diversity of terroir, the topsoil often consists of light sandy and quartz pebbles overlying limestone subsoils. To the north and west of the region these soils have less gravel and become progressively heavier and more clayey with limestone and ferrous outcrops. To the southeast the soils are similar to the bordering region of

Pauillac with deep gravels overlying a sandstone base. The best terroir is believed to be located here on the highest hill of Cos, where Château Cos D’Estournel overlooks Pauillac. So much so, the neighbouring château Lafite-Rothschild in Pauillac has vineyards in this part of St Estèphe that are allowed to be included in their grand vin. The region’s proximity to the river with its undulating slopes, hills and terraces provides different microclimates even within the same chateau. Generally, the higher elevations have more gravel and sand in contrast to the lower terraces. While the gravel is effective in water drainage and helping Cabernet Sauvignon grapes ripen, the clays best suited for Merlot are useful in drier periods as a source of water and nutrients. The pebbles and stones are thought to have a tempering influence providing warmth in cold weather and remaining cool in the summer heat. The rich diversity of terroir and soils and large expanse has resulted in a diversity of wines in St Estèphe from the austere and rustic to the more intense and sublime. However this is partially due to different styles in winemaking with different combinations of grape varieties in their blends. In the past, the heavy reliance on Cabernet Sauvignon gave St Estèphe the reputation of having the hardest, most rustic and tannic wines needing years if not decades of aging. Of late, the steady trend towards planting more Merlot has created some of the softer more middling balanced wines of the Left Bank. The warmer and drier climate of the recent decades coupled with late harvesting has also helped in producing fruitier wines that can be enjoyed more in their youth. The heavier clay soils of the northern part of the region with more Merlot plantings veer towards a more middling blend; where the chateaux in the south close to Pauillac with their gravels and sands have relied more on the Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc varieties for their blends. Within this diversity, the best of St Estèphe is famed for its individuality, intense dark colour, high acidity, very rich tannic backbone and purity, and elegance of distinctly spicy aromas with a vein of minerality. It is up for discussion whether Cos D’Estournel, Montrose or even Calon-Segur epitomizes this most. Cos is known for its ripeness and spicy more exotic wine, Montrose for its powerful structure and density. While they can be enjoyed for their freshness in their youth they are capable of or even require aging gracefully to develop deeper fruit flavours and more finesse. The predominant flavours are of blackcurrant, blackberry, violet, tobacco, cigar box, vanilla and liquorice. Coming Next: The Philiosophy of Margaux. 47

ST ESTÈPHE

This is Saint Estèphe These wines have been chosen for their popular ratings, acclaim among wine critics, medium price point, rich terroir and/or great vintages. Our team have been given complimentary bottles from local suppliers to give our view on how they best express and characterize the various styles of the appellation. Saint Estèphe is chiefly a Cabernet Sauvignon blend with the most middling balance of Left Bank appellations in the use of luscious Merlot and sometimes other grape varieties. The large proportion of gravel in its soils means that Saint Estèphe is known historically as having some of the strongest most austere wines that need aging. However, over the recent decades, a switch to more Merlot on the substantial clay that is equally present has resulted in softer wines approachable at a younger age. Saint Estèphe is known for its signature minerality and exotic spices over and above the serene structure of powerful tannins that verge on the dark fruit with age. Its paucity of classified chateaux means that prices are much more approachable than its hallowed neighbours next door with relatively delicious fare. Vintage is important in terms of personal taste and structure with some of the hotter years producing relatively better wines since the clay ensures the vines still have access to water, where the gravels provide structure and help in ripening in wetter vintages. The wines have been placed in order of price, but roughly in order of full to more medium mouthfeel with highlights in character, style or vintage: Meyney 2012 is a tour de force of concentrated intensity with a multi-faceted structure; Lafon-Rochet 2016 is the quintessential vintage of left bank strength and elegance; Pagodes de Cos 2016 is a decadent blend of spice, wood, earth and

fruit; De Pez 2015 is a luscious combination of fruit and earthy flavours and aromas; Ormes de Pez 2017 is a spice and wood confection that is readily approachable; Haut Baradieu 2010 is a forest berried confection with great structure; Coutelin-Merville 2012 is a lighter blend of varieties with all the panache. Bordeaux wines in the 40 to 70 euro price range when well-rated have all the complexity and depth of much more expensive wines but are still enjoyable as being a cut above more mass-produced cheaper wines. Saint Estèphe has a constellation of historic chateaux that consistently produce wines enjoyed for their good value high calibre. A further ring of cru bourgeois chateaux help keep up this reputation. As such the signature combination of clay, gravel, sand and limestone mean that wines come with a range of strengths and enduring elements, however wine style is important in so far as winemakers choose to veer towards a cru that is more easily accessible as a young vintage in contrast to ones that need patient aging before reaching their full expression. In practice, Saint Estèphe wines offer a combination of both. In general, the Vivino popular ratings tend to be overly critical, where the wine critic ratings ironically can be more spot on. Young to medium aged red wines should be decanted for a few minutes to a few hours (depending on personal preference and age and type of vintage) to increase aeration and allow the wine to soften and unfurl its character and bouquet (it can be well worth the wait especially with full-bodied wines). Red wine should be served at 15 degrees. The tasting notes are deliberately by a wine aficionado not by a professional sommelier. If wine is good it should be distinguishable to amateurs otherwise there would be no public interest.

FOR OTHER TASTING NOTES ON WONDERFUL WINES JOIN US ON INSTAGRAM/FIRSTTHISISWINE Above, from left to right: Château Coutelin-Merville, Château de Pez, Pagodes de Cos, Château Lafon-Rochet, Château Meyney, Château Ormes de Pez, Château Haut Baradieu.

Château Meyney 2012 Cru Bourgeois €67.50 from Attard & Co. Wines Vivino popular rating 3.9/5 Jeff Leve 89/100 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 42% Merlot, 18% Petit Verdot Terroir: 35-year-old vines (some are close to 100) on gravel and sand on a thick blue clay subsoil near Montrose. TASTING NOTES: BAY OF CAPRI – OVEN-ROASTED PULLED PORK WITH APPLE AND PLUM CHUTNEY. Château Meyney 2012 is dark garnet blushing on the crimson. The bouquet is a rich mulled cocktail of cherry, plum and blueberry laced in candied orange peel, chocolate, cinnamon and vanilla bean with base notes of caramelized creamy molasses and wet earth in tow. The tertiary spice notes and secondary wood notes are well integrated and woven succinctly into the plush fruit aromas in the shape of log cabin fire smoke and elderflower berry. Upon tasting the attack is a full range of plum, cherry and dark berry with a cavernous serene depth. A mid-palate full-bodied sweetness and soft tannins and acidity end in a polished finish. A pulsating core of autumn fruit with sultry winter spices is enshrouded in an elegant structure with suave and unedged contours that show this is ready for drinking. Upon decanting for an hour more of the same only with textures and greater appeal explaining why Meyney has a cult following. I suggest decanting for just enough time to allow the wine to blossom with full force but this is ripe for the drinking even if there is potential on the upside. Even in a trying year terroir like Meyney comes through in leaps and bounds and the tour de force of deep fruit and elegant structure ensure that its full-bodied character has a wide berth of enviable expression.

Supplier details: Attard & Co. Wines has a range of Bordeaux wines in the Cordier portfolio with a number of well-rated St Estèphe wines, including Château La Rousseliere and Tronquoy Lalande. Attard & Co. Wines, Canter House, P. Felicjan Bilocca Str., Marsa. Tel 00356 2123 7555 (Gozo Outlet: Triq Fortunato Mizzi, Victoria. Tel: 00356 2156 4570). Web attardcowines.com 49

THIS IS WINE

Château Lafon-Rochet 2016

Pagodes de Cos 2016

Château de Pez 2015

Fourth Growth Grand Cru Classe €61.64 from Farsonsdirect Vivino popular rating 4/5 Overall Critics 93/100 Jeff Leve 94/100 57% Cabernet Sauvignon 35% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc, 5% Petit Verdot Terroir: 35-year-old vines planted in deep gravel and blue clay on slopes and hills with high elevations at the southern end of St Estèphe near Cos D’ Estournel.

Fourth Growth Grand Cru Classe €58.88 from Farsonsdirect Vivino popular rating 4.2/5 Overall Critics 91/100 Jeff Leve 93/100 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 46.5% Merlot, 0.5% Cabernet Franc, 3% Petit Verdot Terroir: 40-year-old vines planted on the Cos hill of pebbles with a mixture of gravel, sand, clay and limestone (unique to Cos is a higher concentration of gravel than most of St Estèphe and more similar to Pauillac which it borders).

Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel €50 from Charles Grech Ltd Vivino popular rating 3.9/5 Overall critics 89/100 33% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc Terroir: north of the appellation just west of Calon Segur 25-year-old vines on gravel, sand and clay soils with high elevations.

TASTING NOTES: LE NOZZE DI FIGARO – ROAST TURKEY WITH SAGE AND ONION, PLUM AND CHESTNUT STUFFING WITH TRIMMINGS.

TASTING NOTES: DUCCIO’S MAESTA – ROAST VENISON SAUSAGES WITH CARAMELIZED ONION MARINADE AND MASHED POTATOES.

Upon opening Château Lafon-Rochet 2016 is satiny cardinal ruby red in appearance. Mineral wisps of mint, truffle, exotic Chinese five-spice, savoury venison, regally mark off the signature Saint Estèphe boundaries. A core heart of wild forest berries, bramble bush, dark ripe summer fruit punch their own weight on the lush vintage. The attack is sweet red plum with a medium-light body of racy acids and plush tannins ending in a fine cherry, cigar box, cedar and vanilla finish. The wine is rearing with potential needing time to blossom. Upon decanting for three hours the rich cherry and berry confection turn more mulled and fleshy with roasted nuts to boot.

Pagodes de Cos 2016 in appearance is deep ruby red with a plum density. The bouquet has an intense core of forest fruit; crushed blackberries and blackcurrant syrup with cherry and plum in trail. An intricate filigree of secondary and tertiary notes of tobacco leaf, cedar, pepper and clove spice, wet forest and truffle speak volumes of the gilded vintage and wine at hand. On the attack, a full confection of dark fruit is wrapped in savoury textures of caramelized roast venison with a lovely base of tongue-tingling acidity and tannins ending in a wild mountain strawberry and dry timbre and spice inflected finish. The overarching structure has depths and volumes which are literally evolving on the tongue and in the glass promising that this is still in its prime youth. Upon decanting for three hours the aromas have plumbed new depths unfolding into flavours of creamy molasses and roast walnuts with more texture and flesh to the dark plum and cherry and an even longer finish.

Upon uncorking Château de Pez 2015 is a deep ruby red with a glowing red lustre hallow. The bouquet is an orchestrated bevy of high notes; ripe cherry and plum, tobacco leaf and wet undergrowth. The cedarwood and baked spice are well integrated with depth and aplomb even at this youthful age. On the palate the attack is full dark stone fruit with wafts and wafts of berried colouration adding a mid-palate texture and intensity which sings itself off beautifully in a long-lasting textured finish. A mouth thirsting acidity and subtle dryness ensures you dip in for more. 2015 in this neck of the woods was a hot summer vintage with a wet autumn but de Pez came through with flying colours. A light vein minerality of molasses, toasted walnut and dry rose petal and violet accompanies a tinge of green bell pepper and sour wild cherry backdrop. The tannins are textured but satiny with the wine evolving in the glass suggesting that even though this is youthful and structured it will age with ease. Upon decanting for an hour the full fruit spectrum has added muster with verve and character in the structure built on a backbone of toasted and earthy notes giving amplitude and delicious depth.

I suggest drinking this wine at intervals from first opening for a varied experience.This is an incredibly complex wine with a multifaceted expression of a bountiful vintage where racy Cabernet is giving plush Merlot a run for its money in the mid-palate contours. St Estèphe happened to be in the sweet spot in bringing out the best of what nature had to offer and this wine encapsulates succinctly and decadently that fortuitous alignment.

I suggest decanting this wine for as long as one wishes but taste upon opening for good measure.The vintage is one of the most complex in the last decade and this wine fulfils its seasonal role admirably and with perfect balance. St Estèphe is surely a poster child for easily approachable and affordable left bank wines that also have a weight to vie with more expensive wines and this bottle and vintage is certainly the standard of admirable measure.

Supplier details: Farsonsdirect has a large range of St Estèphe wines amongst which Cos D’Estournel, Montrose, Phelan Segur, Petit Bocq and Calon Segur. Farsonsdirect, The Brewery, Mdina Road, B’Kara. Tel 00356 2381 4444. Web farsonsdirect.com

Supplier details: Charles Grech has a vast range of Bordeaux wines at varying price points and vintages. Charles Grech, Valley Road, B’Kara. Tel: 00356 2144 4400 (Sliema 2132 3731, Ibragg 2137 8609, Ta’ Xbiex Seafront 2131 5064). Web charlesgrech.com

I suggest decanting this wine for as long as one wishes.There is an awe-inspiring Burgundian purity to the core of this wine such is its seamless polish and ethereal dancing poise even if this is a strong contender for the quintessential wine of the appellation and vintage that has brought out the best of its gravel and blue clay terroir.The fruit core speak volumes but are textured with spice and oak notes ensuring that none of this falls flat, the structure is a roaring edifice of things yet to happen by way of gracious aging but can still be savoured at this stage with gusto.

TASTING NOTES: MOONLIGHT SONATA – MINUTE STEAK ALLA PIZZAIOLLA.

ST ESTÈPHE

Château Ormes de Pez 2017

Château Haut Baradieu 2010

Château Coutelin-Merville 2012

Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel €42.80 from The Store Vivino popular rating 3.9/5 Overall critics 89/100 42% Cabernet Sauvignon, 51% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc/Petit Verdot Terroir: Around the hameau/hamlet of Pez 30-year-old vines planted in two parcels with more gravel in one and more clay and sand in the other.

Made for Cordier €41.00 from Attard & Co. Wines Vivino popular rating 4/5 Overall critics 92/100 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 60% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc, 5% Petit Verdot Terroir: chalky-clay soils near Calon-Segur in the northern end of Pauillac.

Cru Bourgeois €28.38 from S. Rausi Trading Ltd Vivino popular rating 3.9/5 Overall critics 86/100 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 50% Merlot, 22% Cabernet Franc, 3% Petit Verdot Terroir: 26-year-old vines on clay and gravel near Lafon-Rochet at the southern end of the appellation.

TASTING NOTES: VENUS DE MILO – HAKKA NOODLES WITH STIR-FRY CHICKEN, PRAWNS, LEMONGRASS, LIME AND CHILLIES. In appearance Ormes de Pez 2017 is deep garnet with a soft lush density. On the nose a rich bouquet of maraschino cherries laced in cedarwood, baked clove and bitter-sweet almond. Base notes of cocoa, prune, treacle, mint and anise attest to the rich and varied terroir of clay, gravel and sand. The attack is a quick succession of mulled dense red berries with a medium-plus bodied corpulent mouth feel and pleasingly long creamy dry finish. The wine despite its youth is already quite forthcoming even if a bit tight at this stage. Upon a three hour decant tongue wrapping tannins turn more satin with a florality of iris, violet and wild mountain strawberry setting the end of summer tone. I suggest decanting this wine for an hour or more just to let it open up gracefully.The body is a shapely combination of arching grape varieties vying to please with a firm balanced structure ensuring none of this blossom in vane. A smooth silhouette of luscious fruit, intricate spice and rich minerality explain why Pez hamlet wines are so endearing, this already has subtle tertiary notes readily and deliciously accessible even if cellaring will add further depths.

Supplier details: The Store has a wide range of Bordeaux wines at various price points and vintages. The Store, Triq taz-Zwejt, San Gwann (Industrial Estate). Tel 00356 2144 4364. Web thestore.mt

TASTING NOTES: IN THE MIDST OF WATER – ROAST CAPON WITH CHESTNUT STUFFING, YORKSHIRE PUDDINGS AND GRAVY. Upon opening Château Haut Baradieu 2010 is a dark scarlet red verging on deep crimson. The bouquet is a medley of forest berries wrapped in timbre oak notes, tobacco leaf, pencil shavings, and peppermint. Savoury notes of light game, hot spice and smoke also come into play. Upon tasting a luscious range of berries, cassis and mulberry on the attack are complemented by a medium to full-bodied mouthfeel with tongue-tingling tannins and a tart acidity that unfolds into a toasted brioche and cream sherry dry finish. The wine is full of understated structure that speaks volumes with the assemblage of grape varieties providing a well-rounded core of fruit and more fruit at varying stages of ripening. Upon decanting for three hours some of the berries have turned more to crisp damson with more aplomb adding flesh to the bones of aromas that are now even more in full swing. Plusher tones of baked spice with tertiary notes of dry rose and wet earth unfurl, suggesting this can promisingly age further. I suggest decanting this wine for a few hours just on the basis of a stellar vintage if a true expression of the seasons in play in full bloom are to be properly appreciated.The structure is all there providing the backdrop for a wine that speaks volumes of luscious fruit but has dimensions that need time to savour in good order.

TASTING NOTES: THE GENTLE HILL – PARPADELLE ALLA CARBONARA – EGGS, GUANCIALE, PECORINO. Coutelin-Merville 2012 is a dark cherry red with a warm density in colour. On the nose soft notes of dry tobacco leaf and vanilla bean with wafts of rose petal, sandalwood and pencil shavings. Mid notes are blackcurrant, damascene plum and strawberry preserve. On the palate the attack is a dry tart red fruit berry followed by a medium to light-bodied mouthfeel with gracious textures throughout and pleasing full fruit finish. Upon decanting for three hours the wine opens up to more fruit and flesh with savoury notes of caramelized creamy molasses and juicy red meat. I suggest decanting this wine for as long as desired both in terms of the vintage and terroir.The content is a balanced combination and harbinger of ripe Merlot and tarter Cabernet Sauvignon with a soothingly sweet and dry tempo vying to make their mark.This is St Estèphe at its most approachable in terms of value and light drinking without losing out on the trace of minerality and gorgeous fruit flavours that enshrine its boundaries.

Supplier details: S. Rausi Trading has a large range of French wines with an emphasis on Bordeaux. S Rausi Trading Ltd, Empire Stadium Str, Gzira. Tel 00356 2131 6210. Web srausi.com/shop

THIS IS WINE

BORDEAUX – RIGHT BANK – LALANDE DE POMEROL – CHÂTEAU LA FLEUR DE BOÜARD

SOMEWHERE OVER THE RAINBOW… A LAND BEY OND POMEROL First there was Pomerol then there was Lalande de Pomerol. Just a stone’s throw further northeast across the allimportant Barbanne stream lie vineyards which, while not as historically prestigious as their Pomerol confreres, can still hold their own in terms of earnest hard work and good terroir. Lalande de Pomerol like Pomerol has seen the cultivation of grapes from at least the 12th century and likewise has had the Knight Hospitallers of St John of Jerusalem (and then Malta) custodians of vineyards and wayfarers on their pilgrim route to Santiago de Compostela, writes Kris Bonavita. Vineyard and winery photography courtesy Château La Fleur de Boüard, Philippe Caumes. Wine photography First Magazine.

This page: In 2011 La Fleur de Boüard completed the entire reconstruction of their wine-making facilities with iconic upturned hanging conical stainless steel vats powered by gravity. Their wines undergo a cold maceration, followed by 4-week fermentation in tanks before malolactic fermentation in predominantly new French oak barrels for almost 2 years, depending on vintage. Photography Philippe Caumes. 52

BORDEAUX RIGHT BANK

THIS IS CHÂTEAU LA FLEUR DE BOÜARD 2016 €60 from Mirachem Vivino Popular Rating 4.1/5 Jeff Leve 92/100 James Suckling 93/100 85% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Franc, 3 % Cabernet Sauvignon (average age of vines 25 years). Terroir:The Plateau of Neac which is essentially an extension of that of Pomerol with similar gravel and blue clay soils with some iron content on well-drained elevations and slopes (in contrast to some of the sandier soils on flatter land that lie near Lalande itself and the west end of Pomerol that give rise to lighter style wines). Vigneron Style: Gentle extraction favouring a fruit centred wine with fresh, supple and silky tannins. TASTING NOTES: THE BLACK SWAN - COQUILLES ST JACQUES PARISIENNES (SEARED SCALLOPS BAKED IN WHITE WINE, MUSHROOMS AND CREAM ENSCONCED IN DUCHESSE POTATOES).

alande can be safely distinguished in having less clay and iron-rich soils and more gravel and alluvial sands than Pomerol’s more famous chateaux. Vineyards near the second village of Neac do have some clay in their making and some of it is a vinewatering prized blue. Indeed some chateaux have terroir and winemaking standards that can be considered superior to some Pomerol chateaux with sandy soils. As with most Right Bank appellations Merlot reigns supreme with Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon playing minor roles. Although less hallowed than Pomerol, investments in the region have resulted in a bevy of winemakers doing their best out of less famous land with good results. Lalande wine is so far less expensive and sometimes of equally good calibre if not better value with some chateaux having an affectionate following of their own. Merlot grown well on the right soils and aged gracefully has a lot to offer in terms of luscious flavours and rich depths (think Petrùs). One chateau, La Fleur de Boüard, has carved out a niche for itself as the poster child for promoting Bordeaux to a new generation of wine drinkers and indeed offering more famous chateaux in Pomerol a run for their money. The Right Bank advantage of being Merlot-based makes it not just approachable without much cellaring but equally having the depth and complexity to vie on the world stage of concentrated but highly palatable claret. An envious position within the midst of a hallowed reputation of Bordeaux wine being a bit too Old World and exclusive. The co-owner of Angélus and one of Bordeaux’ top oenologists, Hubert de Boüard de Laforest, took it upon himself together with his daughter, Coralie, to buy up an estate going for a song of its St Emilion neighbours and turning it around just on the basis of exquisite terroir and meticulous vine-growing and winemaking techniques to come up with a chateau and grand vin that is one to watch and savour. After twenty years plus of ongoing research and know-how with an extensive reassessment of what to grow and where, with some Cabernet Franc being pulled out and Cabernet Sauvignon being planted in the more gravely soils; it is safe to say that if you want to taste a Lalande de Pomerol that is a cut above the rest, or rather its benchmark wine, and gets closest to its Pomerol and St Emilion celebrity status this is the best one to delve into. The rich combination of clay, gravel, sand and alluvial soils result in a complexity of wines that while refreshingly approachable at a young age with a spectrum of red fruit and berries can develop into a full range of darker fruit and tertiary spice and earth notes with proper aging. It is this versatility and combination of grapes on the varied soils that allows Château La Fleur de Boüard to be taken seriously, especially when seen in the context of the serious struggle for good pedigree at each stage. It is not just about terroir and know-how but it is also about prestige, challenge or pure wine kudos, rather than just economic gain.

On first pouring La Fleur de Boüard 2016 is scarlet in colour with a dainty amethyst red halo. The initial bouquet is a soft woven confection of creamy woods and subtle earth tones with a cherry drop centre vying with raspberry and strawberry notes. Vanilla, cinnamon, sprig of rosemary, fresh mint and star anise also come to mind in the undertones. On tasting a full range of red fruit berries; red currant and rosehip, as well as juicy red plum fill in on the full summer aromas. The attack has a tart cranberry acid grip with a medium-bodied mouthfeel of textured tannins, mid dryness and a raspy cherry and cassis syrupy pie finish. Upon decanting for three hours the cherry and plum have more chew, the strawberries have become more preserve and the satin tannins have evolved into fleshy autumn molasses, roasted nuts, and wet undergrowth. A slight savoury streak of braised veal and a timbre log-cabin depth finish, hint at the clay gravel terroir. I suggest drinking this wine in stages, on first opening and at intervals to relish the evolution and great expression at hand. As such the boisterous structure of well-ripened fruit and good acidity is proof of a splendid vintage that lent itself well to the terroir and winemaking style in play; but equally the voluptuous content, with depth and amplitude in satin flavours and aromas, as well as laser precision polish, speak beautifully of a grand vin with a unique constellation of great settings allowing the wine to be enjoyed young or with good cellaring.

Supplier details: Mirachem has an expansive range of Right Bank wines amongst which from Lalande de Pomerol: Château Perron and Château Les Vieux Ormes. Mirachem, Mira Building, Triq Kan K Pirotta, B’Kara. Tel 00356 2148 8590. Web wine.mt

Fun Fact: Jacques-Yves Cousteau of ocean-going Calypso fame was born in the nearby town of St Andre-de-Cubzac and was the first appointed president of the vinous brotherhood to promote the appellation, known as the Baillis de Lalande de Pomerol, in 1985. 53

APERITIF

RITZy BUSINESS The Art of the Aperitif In the 5th century BC the Greek physician Hippocrates prescribed a medicine of his own invention to patients suffering from loss of appetite: vīnum Hippocraticum, a concoction of sweetened wine with flowers, herbs and spices. In Ancient Rome an early predecessor of the modern aperitif was also popular, a drink based on wine, honey and spices. The true modern aperitif however was born in Turin when in 1786 Antonio Benedetto Carpano invented vermouth, produced with white wine added to an infusion of over 30 types of herbs and spices. This would go on to be the basis of a bevy of popular drinks and cocktails including the Americano and Negroni. Today the art of the aperitif is a blissful ritual that takes place in Piazzas all across Italy from about 5 or 6 in the evening, as a pre-dinner relaxing break after work, a time to catch up with friends, gossip and watch the world go by. It is normally accompanied by quick snacks such as olives and crisps or nuts, with each bar also offering their own unique more indulgent finger foods. Here Mediterranean Culinary Academy's chefs share their recipes for Focaccia with Olives and Ricotta and Roasted Tomato Crostini, perfect aperitif nibbles. Food and drink photography Robert Pace. This page: Time for an aperitivo at Caffè Florian, Piazza San Marco, Venice. Photograph Clay Banks.

A GIFT EVERY DAY... Only on the McDonald’s App

APERITIF

NEGRONI

The Negroni made with one part gin, one part vermouth rosso, and one part Campari, and garnished with orange peel is one of Italy's most favourite aperitivos. According to popular culture, the Negroni was created in 1919 in Florence at Caffè Casoni on Via de' Tornabuoni, when Count Camillo Negroni asked the bartender Fosco Scarselli to strengthen his favourite cocktail, the Americano, with a little gin to replace the soda water. The bartender added an orange garnish instead of the Americano's typical lemon garnish to distinguish that it was a different drink and the new cocktail became known as Count Negroni's "Trendy Americano", later taking the name of the Count himself. Years later in 1972, the Negroni Sbagliato was invented when legendery bartender Mirko Stocchetto, at Bar Basso in Milan, accidentally added prosecco instead of gin.

SERVES 1 NEGRONI 28ml sweet vermouth 28ml Campari 28ml gin orange slice or twist for garnish

SERVES 1 AMERICANO 28ml Campari 28ml sweet vermouth soda water, to taste lemon or orange slice or twist, for garnish

1. Pour ingredients into old-fashioned glass filled with ice cubes. Stir well. 2. Gently squeeze orange twist or slice over glass, then add to garnish.

1. Pour Campari and vermouth into old-fashioned glass filled with ice cubes. 2. Top with soda and garnish with lemon or orange slice or twist.

SERVES 1 NEGRONI SBAGLIATO 28ml Campari 28ml sweet vermouth Prosecco 1. Pour Campari and vermouth into old-fashioned glass filled with ice cubes. 2. Top with Prosecco or sparkling wine and garnish with orange wedge. 57

APERITIF

FOCACCIA WITH OLIVES This crisp fragrant olive and rosemary focaccia finished with coarse sea salt is perfect for entertaining over the holidays, and pairs well with drinks and other nibbles.

500g bread flour 15g sea salt 5g instant yeast 350ml water 75ml olive oil 10g fennel seeds 2 sprigs rosemary 1 tbsp finishing salt 1. Combine flour, salt, yeast and water in a large bowl with a wooden spoon. The bowl should be big enough to accommodate dough rising by about 5 times. 2. Cover bowl tightly and allow to rest in a cool dry place at room temperature overnight. 3. Drizzle top of risen dough with olive oil and flip out onto work surface. 4. Form into a ball with well-oiled hands and tuck dough underneath itself, rotating to tighten. 5. Pour half of the reserved oil onto bottom of large cast iron skillet and transfer ball of dough to pan. Flatten lightly and spread around the pan, coating lightly with oil. Cover with cling film and leave to stand for 2 hours. 6. Preheat oven to 250C. 7. After 2 hours, press dough down with your fingertips and release any air bubbles that may have trapped under dough. 8. Season and push down chopped olives and coarse sea salt. Drizzle with remaining olive oil and bake until top and base of focaccia are an even golden brown (about 16-20 minutes). 59

APERITIF

RICOTTA AND ROASTED TOMATO CROSTINI Ripe cherry tomatoes are key for this simple recipe and work in tandem with the ricotta, freshly whipped with basil and lemon.

1 baguette 12 cherry tomatoes, chopped in half 1 bunch basil, chopped 250g ricotta juice from 1 lemon extra virgin olive oil as needed salt, pepper to taste

1. Slice baguette into small rounds and place on lined baking tray. Season with olive, salt and pepper and place into oven set to 180C until evenly browned (about 15 minutes). Remove and cool. 2. Drizzle cherry tomatoes lightly with olive oil and season with salt. Roast on a lined baking sheet at 200C until the tomatoes are lightly charred (about 20 minutes). 3. Combine ricotta with lemon juice, salt, extra virgin olive oil and chopped basil, refrigerate. 4. Add a generous spoonful of ricotta mixture onto cooled crostini and garnish with roasted cherry tomato and sprig of basil.

Recipes are from The Mediterranean Culinary Academy's collection developed by their chef instructors. For more recipes, or to book a cooking class visit www.mcamalta.com or email contact@mcamalta.com. Share your creations by tagging @mca_malta or sending MCA a photo on their socials.

HEALTH & FITNESS

LET’S GO OUTDOORS

FRILUFTSLIV The physical benefits of regular exercise are numerous, including improving heart health and reducing the incidence of diseases such as diabetes. The links between exercise and mental wellbeing are well recognised, and numerous studies also underline the positive effects of the outdoors on mental health. Exercise and being outdoors helps bring people together and helps build connections, which are also known to help the mind. Recognising these benefits, along with the upsides for the environment, governments around the world are working on new projects that encourage people to exercise and connect with nature. Photography courtesy Visit Limburg (Belgium).

n an article for the World Economic Forum “Got the blues? Head for some green spaces” Sean Fleming writes that “Feeling down? Something as simple as a visit to your nearest park could perk you up with long-lasting positive effects on your mood. The soothing effects of the great outdoors are well documented. Harvard Medical School reports that time spent outside can reduce stress, anxiety, and depression: ‘The calming nature sounds and even outdoor silence can lower blood pressure and levels of

the stress hormone cortisol, which calms the body’s fight-or-flight response.’ That might go some way to explaining why people from the Nordic nations are some of the happiest in the world. Getting out and about in the great outdoors and spending time surrounded by nature is such an important part of Nordic life that it even has a name – friluftsliv, which translates as open-air living.” In an inspiring series of project Limburg Belgium, cycling paths can now take you right into the heart of nature.

Cycling through Water ‘Cycling through Water’ in Bokrijk in Limburg, Belgium is a unique cycling experience in which you cycle more than 200 meters through a pond, through a 3m wide path. The bike path opened in April 2016 and since then many cyclists and hikers have felt the magic of this place. The cycle path leads you through a pond, all the way from one bank to the other, with swans and wild water fowl gliding across the water. In the middle, the water is at eye level on both sides. “A cycle path with respect for nature – Nature provides for a unique experience but we also provide for nature”, says Visit Limburg. “As a result of the Cycling through Water project, the roll-out of Bokrijk’s new woodland and landscape management plan was accelerated, which is only a good thing for the flora and fauna in the area.” (source: VisitLimburg.be) This page: Cycling through Water in Bokrijk. Photograph courtesy Visit Limburg (Belgium) © Luc Daelemans. 63

HEALTH & FITNESS Cycling through the Trees ‘Cycling through the Trees’ in Bosland is a unique cycling experience where you cycle up to ten meters high between the trees. The cycle path was opened in June 2019. This cycle path takes you into higher realms. Quite literally – because you cycle around a double circle all the way up to the treetops, up to ten meters. The cycle path is 700 meters in total. You experience nature in a completely different way and become one with the forest. The path is also accessible to walkers and joggers. The cycle path was built with a respect for the forest and landscape. Corten steel pillars supporting the path are placed at varying intervals of 1, 2 and 3 metres apart and symbolise the straight trunks of the trees, ensuring that the structure fits beautifully into the environment. This also allows for easy passage through the forest for any wildlife. (source: VisitLimburg.be) This page: Cycling through trees in Bosland. Photograph courtesy Visit Limburg (Belgium) © Luc Daelemans.

WE MADE IT SUSTAINABLE

BABY BLANKET

NAPPY LINERS

MUSLIN CLOTH

CUTLERY

REUSABLE NAPPY

SOCKS AND MITTENS

FEEDING BIB

DUMMY AND TEETHER

Collect the Baby Box when registering your newborn at Identity Malta’s offices at Mater Dei Hospital or in Marsa, or at the Gozo Registry Office.

HEALTH & FITNESS

Cycling through the Heathland ‘Cycling through the Heathland’ takes you straight through the Hoge Kempen National Park. On a bike path of 4 km you cycle right through In Belgium’s only National Park, where a wooden bicycle bridge of 300 meters takes you higher up to a beautiful panoramic view of vast pine forests which alternate with endless heathland landscapes. (source: VisitLimburg.be) This page: Cycling through the Heathland in Hoge Kempen National Park. Photograph courtesy Visit Limburg (Belgium) © KurtVandeweerdt.

FITNESS

Parks Fitness is a Parks Malta initiative to promote the use of open spaces as part of a healthier lifestyle. An initiative in collaboration with the Ministry for Energy, Enterprise and Sustainable Development.

parksmaltafitness.com

SCAN HERE FOR

WORKOUTS

plastic freE festive season

SAVING OUR

insels, flashy lights, colourful presents and glorious Christmas trees are starting to sprout all over Malta and Gozo. This is a jolly time full of family reunions, parties, food and presents, but this might not be so jolly for our environment. More waste is generated through our decorations, Christmas crackers, packaging, wrapping of gifts, food waste and overall single-use plastic items used. Over the coming weeks, many will indulge in endless shopping sprees, followed by hours in the kitchen preparing for scrumptious Christmas meals. However, this is where we must all stop and think about ways to enjoy this festive period without doing harm to our Environment! How? One simple change. Avoid the use of single-use plastics (SUPs)! Once believed to be the miracle material – plastic has turned out to be our worst enemy and this must be addressed urgently. The Ministry for the Environment, Climate Change and Planning together with the Environment Resource Authority (ERA), is already working hard to reduce the use of SUPs. This is being done by means of laws and measures intended to change towards a more sustainable market. This, together with encouraging the public to start adopting a sustainable mindset to start using alternative products available, will help curb this enemy. We need to start looking for reusable and eco-friendly products now! Since January of this year the government has reached the target of banning the importation of a number of single-use plastic items from the Maltese market. The next step will now happen in January 2022. Malta will be going a step further by banning the sale and consumption of such products.The ball is in every individuals’ court. We need to start taking action and change our own behaviours. It is time we shift towards a more sustainable way of living using less plastic – ideally none.

So why not take the challenge and start off by enjoying a more sustainable Christmas right away? How can you do that? AVOID SINGLE-USE PLASTIC ITEMS such as wrapping paper made out of foil, glitter and other plastic materials and opt for more eco-friendly resources like recycled paper products and sustainable materials such as brown paper. SURPRISE YOUR FAMILY AND FRIENDS WITH LONG-LASTING GIFTS like books, mugs, subscriptions, memberships, plants, or even a unique experience through fun activities. SHOP LOCALLY and make your gift-giving healthy for our environment. Say NO to items that are used only once and then thrown away. AVOID PLATES, CUPS, CUTLERY, FOOD AND BEVERAGE CONTAINERS MADE OUT OF SINGLE-USE PLASTIC, and try to carry portable tableware with you whenever possible or, opt for more eco-friendly alternatives. There are a wide variety of alternatives for you to consider such as products made from bamboo, wood, stainless steel, compostable and plant fibres. DISPOSE OF YOUR LITTER APPROPRIATELY! Use designated areas and bins for your waste. Disposing of it appropriately will help to further reduce our impact. One main principle is: IF YOU CAN’T REUSE IT – REFUSE IT! Hence, this year, think wisely and be part of the solution, not the pollution! Merry Sustainable Christmas from the Saving Our Blue Campaign!

PROMOTING ACTIVE AGEING AND IMPROVING QUALITY OF LIFE FOR THE ELDERLY

ACTIVE AGEING CENTRES

DIGITAL ACCESS FOR ALL This year we had a number of initiatives going on which were aimed at empowering older adults in the use of digital technologies. ICT and Mental Health is a course designed to enable participants make better use of their digital devices and at the same time become aware of the online resources available for psychological well-being and to seek further support.

With 22 Active Ageing Centres spread around Malta, the Active Ageing and Community Care (AACC) seeks to provide a space for senior citizens where the concept of active ageing is promoted all along. The Active Ageing Centres are found in these localities: Mellieħa, St Paul’s Bay, Mosta, Mġarr, Dingli, Siġġiewi, Naxxar, Sliema, St Venera, Birkirkara, Msida, Qormi, St Luċia, Żurrieq, Kirkop, Safi, Żejtun, Birżebbuġa, Luqa, Ħamrun, Cospicua and Marsaskala. The main aim of the active ageing centres is to serve as social and recreational places for older adults; centres which foster social relationships, combat social isolation, encourage older adults to remain physically and socially active, and which promote lifelong education, through a diverse programme of activities and lifelong learning sessions. The Active Ageing and Community Care organises a programme of activities which include sessions delivered by members themselves, based on their interests and abilities, as well as sessions delivered by the AAC staff, and tutors. Sessions include cultural walks and trekking, crafts, fishing, line dancing, and swimming sessions among others. The Active Ageing and Community Care collaborates with several stakeholders such as the Civil Protection, Animal Welfare, Community Policing, SOS Malta and others, all of which contribute to enrich the programme of activities and offer a variety of experiences to members. Such collaborations vary from one-off talks or sessions on a variety of topics, to comprehensive projects which promote lifelong learning, and which stimulate the active participation of older persons within their communities, being it through artistic projects, intergenerational programmes with a number of Primary Schools and Post-Secondary Institutions, voluntary work, and many others.

During October and November, we had a number of workshops in different localities including Gozo, where older adults had the opportunity to learn and discuss with the experts, the digital access and the challenges related to the digital technologies and the internet. These workshops were part of the activities held for the International Day of Older Persons, which this year, following the acceleration of digitization during the COVID-19 pandemic, was dedicated to Digital Equity for All Ages. Applications for the Active Ageing Centres can be obtained from the website: activeageing.gov.mt Further information can be obtained from any Active Ageing Centre or Ċentru Servizz Anzjan in Valletta.

For further information contact us or visit the website:

+356 2278 8800

aacc-services@gov.mt

Active Ageing and Community Care

activeagaeing.gov.mt

ENVIRONMENT AWARENESS

Wild Orchids in Malta That 37 species of wild orchids embellish Malta’s countryside for 6 months of the year is a fact that is unknown to most. These orchids have now been photographed and documented by internationally acclaimed award winning nature photographer Johan Siggesson in his new coffee-table book Marvellous Malta – Where Wild Orchids Grow. The book is an aesthetic journey through the intimate landscape of Malta, revealing wild orchids in hidden spaces. Photography Johan Siggesson. This page: Anacamptis Coriophora Fragrans, Fragrant Orchid, Malta. Photography © Johan Siggesson. 71

ENVIRONMENT AWARENESS

rtistic photography created during one orchid season (2020-2021) shapes Where Wild Orchids Grow. “I wanted to create something positive that highlights the somewhat limited but wonderful Maltese nature. We need to know what actually exists and what we can experience if we take the time to look.” Normally conducting his work in Africa, Asia, Scandinavia or other parts of the world, the Covid-19 pandemic stranded Siggesson and forced him to focus his photography on nature in Malta. Although he has lived in Malta for 20 years, he has never really worked locally but is planning to change this with this first book in a series of books about Maltese nature. “There are plenty of informative books about Maltese trees, insects and flowers, but I never came across a coffee-table book that is more geared towards being beautiful than being informative. There are many similar books about Mdina or Valletta but not this type about Maltese nature. The book is an interesting merge between art and science.” Unlike most orchids around the world, all species in Malta grow on the ground and while orchids are hardy plants they are unable to withstand major destruction of natural habitats, which is a constant threat. This means that, sadly, most populations of Maltese orchids are on the decline or under threat.

ENVIRONMENT AWARENESS

Above and left: Ophrys Speculum, Mirror Orchid, Malta. Photography © Johan Siggesson. Bottom left: Spiranthes spiralis, Autumn lady's-tresses, Malta. Photography © Johan Siggesson.

he long-awaited orchid season starts a few weeks after the first heavy rains in September and October. Following a long, scorching hot summer, these life-giving rains make way for the first orchids of the season. During the following months, all the way until May, different species emerge in various locations around Malta, and with almost 40 species in all, there is always a new one to look out for. At the time of writing it is generally accepted that there are 37 species of orchids in Malta. With minimal effort, you are likely to find about one third of them. The remaining two thirds are extremely rare or even possibly extinct. Marvellous Malta – Where Wild Orchids Grow. Photography Johan Siggesson. 176 pages, 27 x 34 cm, 100 orchid photographs. For more information: www.marvellousmalta.com, Facebook MarvellousMalta, Instagram marvellousmalta 74

MINISTRY FOR FINANCE AND EMPLOYMENT PARLIAMENTARY SECRETARIAT FOR EUROPEAN FUNDS

REFUNDS ON COURSES MQF LEVELS 1-7 2220 1610

t p s . j o b s p l u s @ g o v. m t

Opera onal Programme II - European Structural and Investment Funds 2014-2020 “Inves ng in human capital to create more opportuni es and promote the well-being of society” Project part-financed by the European Social Fund Co-financing rate: 80% European Union; 20% Na onal Funds

PROMOTION

Experience the Magic of Christmas at Esplora What better way to celebrate Christmas than through fantastic science activities, writes Erica, Lead Programme Developer at Esplora Interactive Science Centre.

his December, Esplora Interactive Science Centre is encouraging families to partner up with older adults in their families for a visit. The Milied man-Nanniet offer is available until 22nd December 2021 where visitors who present a Kartanzjan or a 60+ ID Card at reception will be able to bring in up to two children for free, aged 0 to 15. Join us at Esplora this holiday season as we explore science through entertaining shows that the whole family can enjoy. Ask questions, explore the various galleries, interact with over 200 mechanical and multimedia exhibits, engage in hands-on activities, or visit the planetarium. Esplora is the perfect place to be spontaneous and creative. But what’s a Christmas experience without a touch of festive cheer? In December we will be transforming the science centre into a Christmas-themed village. Our science show Body Wonders will take you on a delightful journey through the amazing capabilities of the human body. Ever wondered what happens to our body after meals? Be part of our shows, we will be waiting eagerly to answer your questions.

Dreaming of a white Christmas? Even though the lowest temperature ever recorded in Malta was around 1°C, we tend to associate Christmas with the snow and ice-cold weather most often depicted in movies. But Christmas celebrations are different depending on where you live in the world. Book a place for Esplora’s Weatherology Science Show and travel around the world to explore Earth’s weather and climate to find the perfect Christmas destination.

splora’s Christmas programme, between the 23rdof December 2021 and the 6th of January 2022, will focus on the theme ‘Lights, Camera, Action!’. Throughout these two weeks, most of the activities offered during the Christmas themed opening hours will be linked to the science behind movies. Esplora’s interactive exhibits stimulate learning through play and help visitors gain an insight into how the world works and how science is relevant to our everyday life. But that’s not all. They can also be used to explore how science, technology, engineering, and mathematics are used in the film-making industry, both on set as well as behind the scenes. This Christmas, visitors will be also able to participate in a self-guided trail within Esplora to interact with the exhibits from a different point of view. Don’t forget to visit our Esplora Planetarium! Watching a film in our state-ofthe-art full-dome theatre has always been a treat, but now you can also watch a presenterled show! Join us for Wonders of the Night Sky: Christmas Edition, look up at the

constellations as they can be seen from Malta on Christmas day, and discover how the night sky looks without light pollution. Travel to the international space station, a research lab orbiting Earth, and explore how astronauts aboard celebrate the holidays. Do they set up a Christmas tree? How do their family members send them gifts? And are they able to enjoy traditional Christmas food for their Christmas lunch? All this and more, at the Esplora Planetarium! Give the gift of experiences this Christmas. Visit Esplora Interactive Science Centre for a one-of-a-kind experience. Tickets for the Christmas themed opening hours can be purchased only online from Esplora’s website, esplora.org.mt/christmas-at-esplora. For more information contact Esplora on 00356 2360 2301 or send an email to info@esplora.org.mt Have a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year from all of us at Esplora!

DIAMONDS

Left: In this portrait by the Swedish painter Adolf Ulrik Wertmüller, Queen Marie Antoinette is depicted wearing the bracelets, joined together as a chatelaine from her waist. Adolf Ulrik Wertmüller: Queen Marie Antoinette of France and two of her Children Walking in The Park of Trianon, 1785, Nationalmuseum, Stockholm, Sweden. Photo Erik Cornelius. Right: The historic Marie Antoinette diamonds, a stunning pair of diamond bracelets. Photograph © Christie’s Images Limited 2021.

“WHAT, IS THAT SUPPOSED TO BE ME?” MARIE ANTOINETTE In 1776 Marie Antoinette had been Queen of France for two years and was already recognised as the queen of elegance and style. She could not resist jewellery - especially diamonds. In the spring of 1776, she bought two diamond bracelets for 250,000 livres, a huge sum at the time, equivalent to about $4.6 million today. Even Marie Antoinette’s mother, Empress Maria Theresa of Austria, admonished her daughter for her extravagant spending. In a letter dated 2 September 1776, she wrote: ‘The news from Paris tells me that you have just performed a purchase of bracelets for 250,000 livres and, to that effect, you have unsettled your finances.’ This November Christie’s auctioned The Marie Antoinette Diamonds as lot 1 of its live Magnificent Jewels Auction in Geneva. Presented in their current form, the 112 diamonds - approximately 140 to 150 carats of diamonds – were estimated at $2,000,000-4,000,000. The jewels achieved $8,203,085, the highest price for a diamond jewel ever sold with the storied Marie Antoinette provenance. Jewellery photography courtesy Christie's © Christie’s Images Limited 2021.

ccording to Count MercyArgenteau, Austria’s Ambassador to France in the late 1700s and a loyal family friend, the diamonds were paid partly in gemstones from the Queen’s collection and partly with funds the Queen borrowed from King Louis XVI. The personal papers of King Louis XVI in February 1777 state: ‘to the Queen: down payment of 29,000 livres for the diamond bracelets she bought from Boehmer’. Mercy-Argenteau left his post in France in 1790 and took office in Brussels, then under Austrian rule. On 11 January 1791, he received

a letter from Queen Marie-Antoinette, then a prisoner in the Tuileries in Paris. It announced that a wooden chest would be sent to him for safekeeping. She had secretly wrapped her finest jewels in cotton, stashed them away and sent them out of France for safekeeping. Mercy-Argenteau stored it unopened for the next couple of years. On 16 October 1793, Marie Antoinette was guillotined and in February 1794, Emperor Francis II of Austria ordered the chest to be opened and an inventory to be made. It read as ‘Item no. 6 - A pair of bracelets where three diamonds, with the biggest set in the middle,

form two barrettes; the two barrettes serve as clasps, each comprising four diamonds and 96 collet-set diamonds’. Madame Royale, surviving daughter of Marie Antoinette, received these jewels in January 1796 upon her arrival in Austria. Madame Royale died childless in 1851 and left her jewels to be divided among her nephew and two nieces: the Count of Chambord, the Countess of Chambord and the Duchess of Parma. The duchess inherited the bracelets and in turn bequeathed them to her son Robert, Duke of Parma. They have remained in the same royal family collection since.

“The portrait of Marie-Antoinette with her children in the Trianon park was her gift to Gustav III, who had chosen the artist himself - his way of launching Wertmüller in Paris. Shown at the Salon in 1785, the painting was not well received. The subject exclaimed, “What, is that supposed to be me?” According to the critics, a queen could not be shown with her head on one side. Wertmüller had to adjust the portrait before it could be shipped to Sweden.” Nationalmuseum Sweden 78

FIRST DECEMBER 2021 ISSUE No 330

Articles inside

Wild Orchids in Malta

Inside the World’s Greatest Chemist

Ritzy Business THE ART OF THE APERITIF

This is wine: SAINT ESTÈPHE IN CHRISTMAS