FJORDE MAGAZINE SUMMER ISSUE by FJORDE MEDIA

SUMMER ISSUE SIX

TUK TUK / COLAB / LANIE LANE / HALSINKY PROJECT

FJ O R D E

CONTENTS

FLAVOURS OF SUMMER

Bryan Brown once said “the bartender is an aristocrat of the working class” Agreed!

KNOCK KNOCK ITS TUK TUK

A local social enterprise to bring safe water to people in developing nations.

One of Australia’s premier venues for the exhibition of contemporary photo-based arts.

CREATIVE DESK

HER/HIS DESK

UK CORRESPONDENCE

SAN DIEGO CORRESPONDENCE

MELBOURNE WRAP UP

HOW TO... HEM A SKIRT

COLAB

THE STREETS

MELBOURNE CUP

OUCH

STOCKIST

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To fur or not to fur? That is the question.

54 YOUR GOALS

ROADSIDE FASHION

For the latest fashion from Melbourne’s best up & coming designers

Arabella Ramsay is the eponymous alluring character behind her creative collections.

66 A PICTURE TELLS...

A VERY HAIRY ISSUE

With a desire to create great fitting styles for men, Tuk Tuk arrives down under.

52 THANKS

LANIE LANE

Lanie Lane. Internationally known for her infectious blues ensembles.

GINGERLEE

With no exceptions, a history of motorcycle roots and great food; Gingerlee cafe.

COVER Photographer Woodrow Wilson Hairstyling & Make Up: Samantha Coles Model: Paris [London MGT] Designer: Arabella Ramsay Lacey Love Top $189

I AM A REVOLUT1ON

I AM THE NEW NIKON 1. I am unique. With two powerful image processing engines to deliver full resolution images at 60 FPS, a revolutionary super high-speed autofocus system that boasts 73 focus points, Full (1080p) HD movie recording, Motion Snapshot that simultaneously records a slow motion movie and a still image to make your pictures come alive and Smart Photo Selector to help you capture the best possible picture. I am 1 click ahead. mynikonlife.com.au

FJ O R D E

CO N T R I B U TO R S

EDITORS

CREATIVE DIRECTORS

ART

Alex Cybulska Aaron Weinman

Jamie Li Patrick Price

Studio Oktober

CONTRIBUTORS

PHOTOGRAPHY

MAKE-UP & HAIR

Alex Cybulska Aaron Weinman Ben Anderson Claire Story Emily Collie Emma Rezel Katie Woolway Kristina Bond Lauren Roberts Rachel Farah Simon Cocks Sonia Khan

Filip Konikowski Francesco Vicenzi Jamie Li Woodrow Wilson

Samantha Coles Sarah Dalton

STYLING Ben Anderson

ADVERTISING Contact Jamie Li or Patrick Price

EDITORS

CREATIVE DIRECTORS

GENERAL ENQUIRIES

Alex Cybulska alex.cybulska@fjordemagazine.com

Jamie Li jamie.li@fjordemagazine.com

enquiries@fjordemagazine.com

Aaron Weinman aaron.weinman@fjordemagazine.com

Patrick Price pa.price@fjordemagazine.com

SUBMISSIONS FJORDE accepts submissions from freelance artists, photographers, designers and journalists, however, we cannot reply to every submission. Please see www.fjordemagazine.com for submission guidelines.

Fjorde Magazine will assume no responsibility for consequences that may result in the use of, or reliance on, the published information. No responsibility is taken for the content, images or advertisements. No part of Fjorde magazine may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. Copies of this publication may not be sold. The opinions expressed herein are not necessarily those of the publishing staff. Reproduction in whole or part is prohibited without the permission of the publishers. Articles received with no name, address and phone number(s) will not be published. Articles received will only be published by approval of the editorial team. Fjorde Magazine reserves the right to shorten and or edit received articles and letters. Fjorde Magazine does not accept responsibility on articles written by various columnists and writers

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I AM 1 CLICK AHEAD

FJ O R D E

C R E AT I V E D E S K

THE FIRST YEAR

By Patrick Price & Jamie Li

Let us begin by saying this issue has meant a lot to us as here at FJORDE. It has seen the realization of our dream of bringing the creative world to you one year on. And with one year down and many more to come we hope you’ve enjoyed the ride so far. But it doesn’t end here… With summer finally showing it self and the warmer weather coming out to play we find our selves in that blissful time of year of beaches, barbeques and cold summer drinks. Let the colours of summer embrace your day and bring a smile to all those around you. From funky summer fashions to the relaxed tee and jeans, summer is what you make of it. So sit back, relax and enjoy yourself. And as the inaugural year of FJORDE comes to a close we wanted to stop and say thank you to all the people that we’ve met and helped us along the way. To you all, you’ve enriched our lives, started great friendships and ultimately become a small part of our FJORDE family. But before we leave you, we would like to say a special thank you to the FJORDE team. You are the life-blood of what we do and without you none of this would be possible.

So have a happy and safe Holiday Season and we look forward to seeing you all again in the New Year when we come back bigger and stronger. See you then!

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SUMMER 2012

HER DESK By Alex Cybulska

RE-EVALUATING RESOLUTIONS All of this New Year chat has reminded Welcome to FJORDE’s unofficial ‘ethical’ me of FJORDE’s upcoming first birthday. issue. Where we explore things like faux fur, charitable organisations and even the UK riots. After your hangover has passed and your Christmas money is truly gone, FJORDE will It’s also the issue just before Christmas and be throwing a kickass party to commemorate New Years, which is an awesome time of year a year of massive changes, friends come and punctuated by New Years Eve, a moment gone, constant learning and a magazine that of such lead up and finished with inevitable aims to bring you the very best of Melbourne. disappointment. There’s nothing worse than A time for you to re-evaluate your resolution feeling like you have to have fun at an event, of not drinking/smoking/general fun-having like every Tupperware party and baby shower and, let loose. I’ve ever been to. So welcoming 2012 should With all this coming up, the magazine itself be interesting. will continue to go from strength to strength, The last few years were spent at Sensation, with some great fashion and feature articles Chelsea beach and Adelaide, searching for the planned and interviews with influential best backdrop for a party. Hours were spent Australian and international faces. For those of scouring through set times to find the best plan you who have seen us grow from Issue 1, an of attack for the day, organizing transport and issue nonexistent for those of us involved in it, some sort of day-time accommodation while we have made leaps and bounds. For our fans the hype incessantly built up. on Facebook, casual readers of the mag and those who work with us, thank you for your Then, on the day, one of your mates gets dedication and support. horribly drunk leaving you to take care of them, you’ve mucked up the set times with 2011 has been a fantastic year and 2012 those of another city’s and of course you’ve promises much of the same, but more of it. had some sort of outfit malfunction leaving I’ll be toasting the New Year with a grin you sticking out like a sore thumb. Or is that on my face and sparkly in hand, regardless just me? of where I am.

Which brings me to my next point. It’s only when your most cherished friends surround you, does New Years become memorable. Enjoy the simple things, live to love and love to live! Short and sweet, and that’s me for this issue – only in my old age am I able to impart these fascinating pearls. Keep a look out for the next issue, as massive changes are happening and you’re all invited to take part. Xx

HIS DESK By Aaron Weinman

ALL GOOD THINGS MUST COME TO AN END... Another year over and what an interesting year it’s been. Turbulence in economy, political revolutions and fashionable achievements across the globe. As an online publication we at FJORDE have grown in leaps and bounds, and I am privileged to associate myself with the editorial of this young publication.

Embrace the bright colours of the season, take note of numerous charitable acts the world around us immerses in, and most importantly, remember those closest to you during this festive season.

The year ahead may be rocky, but as with all things new, the path is unknown and will turn into what you make it to be. Be bold, As we reach our first birthday, I must bid be distinguished and strive to achieve in the you all farewell. My pastures may not be greener up ahead, but as the tide turns, so does months ahead. my direction. As my direction shifts to the emerging powers of the Indian Sub-Continent, FJORDE also continues to shift into a new gear for 2012. However before we head into that pasture, enjoy what is on offer for the coming summer.

We appreciate the following FJORDE is building up and that is thanks to you all, our readers. Good luck, God bless and farewell. Aaron..

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Ethical fashion FJ O R D E

UK CORRESPONDENCE

WRITTEN BY EMMA REZZEL UK CORRESPONDENT

2011 has been a year of civil unrest in the capital, ranging from student demonstrations against massive surges in tuition fees to the anti-capitalist protesters who spent weeks camped outside St. Paul’s cathedral. There’s a palpable sense of frustration and disappointment at the steady decline of glittering opportunity once felt to be so attainable in the UK. Rising unemployment, surges in prices and an ever-widening gap between the haves and the have-nots are the inevitable consequences of the mismanagement of the British financial system and a global economic downturn. This recession has had a uniquely divisive impact on our capital’s society with its rare blend of cultures, classes and communities. London is home to the homeless person sleeping in a doorway in Mayfair, a run-down council estate on the same street as a million pound townhouse and a trendy cocktail bar drawing in well-off punters in a notoriously crime-ridden hotspot. In this over-crowded old city there are no visibly ghettoized or elite populations, we all swirl together as one in the hustle and bustle of urban life. With all of us in such close proximity, materialistic differences are keenly felt, a reason often cited to explain the criminal looting that characterised the now renowned

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London riots. These violent uprisings saw apparently disengaged youths take it into their own hands to part-take in the materialism of London society through criminal means smashing up shops, stealing and destroying what they could. Perhaps because the legitimate financial route was considered closed off to this typically low-income, unskilled and disconnected group.

styles that have dominated recently have been under-stated, more disheveled and mindful to disguise the prosperity of the wearer.

But before we all cut up the credit cards, don a potato sack and donate the proceeds from selling off our designer wardrobe to charity, let’s consider the incredibly important place fashion occupies in the framework of London society – and not just because of its capacity to boost the economy and create So what is the effect of all this on the style jobs. Taking pride in your appearance and and trends of the city right now? In an era being mindful that current trends can benefit of hardship is there any room for fashion your social status and your self-confidence, opulence? It feels as though the city has shifted its priorities and that now, the ethics of incite respect and even make you more fashion are not only about the animal that died employable. In this fast-paced environment, first impressions count, and often we are for the material or the measly wages of the judged on our appearances because in London, high street chain’s factory worker, but about nobody stands still long enough to be assessed the all-encompassing dilemma of whether on anything more. To the more dedicated or not the materialism of decadent and often fashionista, clothes also represent a lifestyle, wasteful fashion has any place in our lives at all, when so many of us are in such dire straits. a mode of artistic creativity and a method of carving out an identity in a populous world. Flashing your new Louis Vuitton monogramed Whatever end of the spectrum you reside, tote to your fellow passengers on the tube and thinking about how and why you spend and sporting the latest Cavalli silk chiffon when considering where fashion lies in your list of popping into the newsagents after work, now personal priorities is no bad thing and doesn’t seems a tad ludicrous. The joy, the creativity, have to threaten all that is truly wonderful the self-expression of fashion has been about the art form and the industry. shackled by ethical constraints that can be felt more so now than ever before. Many of the

SUMMER 2012

One doesn’t have to pick up a placard and shout through a mega phone to take a stand against the dark side of capitalism. Being an educated and considerate consumer doesn’t have to undermine the splendor of fashion. Buy second-hand or vintage and invest in garments that are longer lasting to reduce wastage, make purchases from organisations such as Oxfam so that proceeds go to good causes and make an effort to support local businesses and cottage industries by occasionally avoiding the big brands. Enjoy the luxuries that your hard work affords by investing as much in yourself as it takes to look and feel fabulous. But while you’re at it, invest a little in those for whom fashion just isn’t an option and help to redress the balance of these recession-driven societal inequalities.

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FJ O R D E

SAN DIEGO CORRESPONDENCE

WINE ME; DINE ME, THEN CONSIGN ME: RESALE IS THE NEW RETAIL

BY KATIE WOOLWAY SAN DIEGO CORRESPONDENT

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SUMMER 2012

Ok, ok; I’ll admit it. I’m a fashion disciple. In my Bible JC stands for Jimmy Choo, not Jesus Christ (please pardon the blasphemy). However, since I voluntarily flung myself out of the proverbial nest 18 months ago, my relationship with shopping has been less than priority number one. Apparently being an adult means putting shelter before shoes, and food before frocks. I know, I know... My mum and dad always tried to establish the profound difference between ‘wanting’ and ‘needing’ but I’m pretty sure I activated the selective hearing device in my brain in an attempt to avoid acknowledging the awful truth...that labels wouldn’t keep me warm at night (my Juicy Couture pyjamas would disagree) and that there were more important things to start investing in (like a house or whatever...). Instead of feeling slighted by my situation, I decided to capitalise on one of the only industries BOOMING in such a precarious economical environment. The resale industry is a multi-BILLION dollar wunderkind. According to the Association of Resale Professionals, the number of consignment shops in the United States has increased by seven percent annually in the last two years. The industry trade association also states that “sales at resale shops grew 12.7 percent in 2009” which was the year immediately preceding the crash of Wall Street. That figure compares to a “drop is overall retail sales of 7.3 percent during the same time period” according to the U.S. Department of Commerce. In LA and Beverly Hills, upmarket consignment stores boast an impressive collection. Shelves and standing racks overflow with fashion’s most famous: Versace and Vera; Lanvin and Louis; Prada and Pucci; Christian and Chloe. If it’s responsible to purchase recycled toilet paper (I’m not sure how that works and I’m not sure I want to know...), why not recycled clothes? It’s a consumer market that’s not just limited to the buyer.

“SALES AT RESALE SHOPS GREW 12.7% IN 2009” By consigning clothing that is no longer in active circulation within your wardrobe, you are participating in the selling process and are rewarded for your contribution to the industry. You can give your clothes a new lease on life and get paid for it which in turn puts more money in your pocket for more shopping (or saving if you’re THAT kind of person). I have snatched up so many goodies from consignment stores it blows my mind as to why I hadn’t seen the appeal in them sooner. All I have to do is look at my Manolo Blahniks safe in their shoe rack with my Michael Kors snugly beside them and my Helmut Lang single dangling above from its hanger to know that my new found obsession is worth its weight in clothes. Melbourne will be welcoming a new addition to the consignment cause in 2012: Red Finch Boutique is slated to open early February. Stock will include designer garments in pristine condition as well as shoes and accessories. Red Finch also strives to recognize up and coming talent and will be showcasing a rotating “incubator” for aspiring designers and jewellers. For more information about labels carried and more, please visit www.redfinch.com.au

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FASHION NIGHTMARKET SATURDAY 10 TH DECEMBER 6PM TIL MIDNIGHT

OAK PLACE WAREHOUSE SIMMONS ST. SOUTH YARRA $8 PRESALE $10 DOOR

One of a kind Bargains Men’s & Women’s PRELOVED, VINTAGE & NEW Live Acoustic Music by

Laura Loe

Winner of Melbourne Fresh 2011 www.facebook.com/lauraloe w w w.youtube.com / loewong

and more!

A Licensed Event

www.mister-mode.com

FJ O R D E

MELBOURNE WRAP-UP

A|X EXCHANGE OPEN THEIR NEW FLAGSHIP STORE AT THE FASHION CAPITAL

WRITTEN BY ALEX CYBULSKA PHOTOGRAPHED BY CRISTIAN CARDONA

On Saturday 22nd October 2011 fashion brand A|X Armani Exchange celebrated the official opening of their brand new flagship store at Melbourne’s Chadstone Shopping Centre. Armani Exchange, part of the Armani Group made up of all the other well known brands such as Emporio Armani and Giorgio Armani, offered customers and guests a preview of their bright and colourful Summer 2011 collection in the tune of a live model installation. The new Fashion Capital store 20

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was a hive of activity, with DJ duo ‘The Backhanderz’ landing on Melbourne soil to play live for shoppers and A|X Armani Exchange staff offering an array of incredible giveaways. Celebrity guest and A|X Armani Exchange customer Anthony Callea took time out from promoting his new single ‘Oh Oh Oh Oh’ to head along the anticipated launch. The opening also coincided with the launch of the A|X Armani Exchange Summer advertising campaign “Style Splash,” a dreamlike ‘fun in

the sun’ fantasy of a glamorous sun-drenched world, photographed by the brand’s favourite creative mind, Matthew Scrivens. A|X Armani Exchange now has four flagship stores across Australia, two located in Melbourne (Chadstone and Melbourne Central) and two in Sydney (Bondi Junction and Westfield Sydney).

SUMMER 2012

KIKKI K CELEBRATES 10 YEARS

Melbourne based fashion stationery label kikki.K, celebrated its 10th Anniversary with an invite-only event at its very first store at Melbourne Central on Wednesday 19th October 2011. Stunning Australian model and face of Melbourne Spring Fashion Week, Sophie Van Dan Akker, attended the celebration wearing an especially designed paper dress made of black and white kikki.K products.

WRITTEN BY EMILY COLLIE

Other key guests included founder and owner of kikki.K, Kristina Karlsson, her partner, and CEO of kikki.K, Paul Lacy, Boost Juice founder Janine Ellis, Natalie Bloom and Alpha 60 designers Alex and Georgie Cleary. Social identities Lauren Newton and Matt Welsh, Laura Anderson, Arabella Ramsey, Candice Goss and Emma Bruer from Nova were also spotted amongst the tightly packed attendees. “As I look back on this little business I started from my tiny one bedroom apartment, It’s so

rewarding to see how far we’ve come,” said owner Kristina Karlsson. But she doesn’t plan on stopping in Australia, with plans to open stores across the globe, including the world’s ultimate style destination, New York. The celebration of the kikki.K 10th anniversary coincides with the release of a limited edition Retrospective Wrapping Paper Book that features all of its customer’s favourite designs from 2001-2011 and insights from founder Kristina ‘Kikki’ Karlsson. W W W. FJ O R D E M A G A Z I N E . C O M

FJ O R D E

How To

H OW TO. . .

HEM A SKIRT

WRITTEN BY LAUREN ROBERTS

1 2 3

Try your skirt on and mark

If you are shortening your

it with sewing chalk. Cut the

skirt, fold up the hem so that

skirt back on again to make

material about two inches

the bottom meets the chalk

sure that you are happy with

Pin the hem up and try the

from below where you

mark. If you are not shortening

the length. If you are, then iron

marked it (if in doubt leave a

said skirt, fold the unravelling

the hem, removing the pins as

little extra). If you are simply

hem (that you would have just

you go. If the length displeases

fixing up a pre-existing

unpicked) to match the pre-

you repeat steps 1-3.

hemline, unpick the stitches.

existing hemline.

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SUMMER 2012

WE HAVE ALL EXPERIENCED A TIME WHERE A HEMMING EMERGENCY HAS STOPPED US FROM WEARING OUR BELOVED OLD SKIRT OR DRESS. HEMMING EMERGENCY, YOU SAY? NOT ANYMORE! INTRODUCING FJORDE’S HOW TO GUIDE, WHICH THIS ISSUE WILL TEACH YOU HOW TO HEM.

4 5 6

There are two ways that

Option two is to hand stitch

And ta daaa! You will have

using the blind hemming

just fixed/improved a

option is to use a sewing

stitch. First fasten the thread

beloved garment. The only

machine. Set the machine

inside the garment. Make

extra advice I can offer you

on the ‘blind hemming stitch

one very small stitch inside

is to move through the steps

setting’ (yes, there is such a

the garment, then one on the

very slowly and not panic if

setting) and slowly feed the

outside. Keep your stiches

you make a mistake, stitches

dress/skirt through

about ¼ of an inch apart and

can easily be unpicked.

Photographer: Jamie Li Styling: Ben Anderson

you can hem your skirt. One

the machine.

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FJ O R D E

C U LT U R E

FLAV OURS OF SUM MER 24

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SUMMER 2012

BY SIMON COCKS

BRYAN BROWN ONCE SAID “THE BARTENDER IS AN ARISTOCRAT OF THE WORKING CLASS” AGREED! Now, if we are to be diligent, lets give credit where credit is due and tip our caps to Bond, James Bond; the man single handedly responsible for the popularity of the Martini. Subtle, potent and a wonderful aperitif, it even has good looks. It even inspired a whole book, Stirred – Not Shaken by John Doxat. Why not start your evening at 1806 (169 The proportions of gin or vodka to vermouth Exhibition St, Melbourne CBD) where the is an issue of great contention amongst martini bar staff will take you on a 200 year journey drinkers. So who does it well? Seamstress through the history of cocktails. Try the classic (113 Lonsdale St, Melbourne CBD) claims aperitif, the Negroni; it’s slightly tart from the The Tiki cocktail movement is a prominent to be the best. And with good reason. You feature of the menu at Golden Monkey (389 orange twist and the gin, but gets a cleansing get your choice of vodka or gin from their bitterness from the Campari and a rich weight Lonsdale St, Melbourne CBD) with the extensive selection, plus whatever garnish famous Mai Tai a popular choice for many. from the Vermouth. It was a drink created your heart desires. Sit down at the bar and Created by trader Victor Bergeron in 1944 and argue with the bartender to hearts content on circa 1920 by bartender Fosco Scarselli at kept secret until the 1970’s, to try and return Bar Casoni in Florence. It was first made the proportions of this amazing drink. some consistency to the inadequate Mai Tai’s for, and named after, Count Camillo Negroni being made at every other bar, Victor released As summer approaches, one’s eagerness for who frequented Bar Carsoni and drank his recipe for the first time. The original called an eclectic cocktail cannot be dismissed and Americanos. Apparently the Count requested Melbourne has some of the most reputable something stronger, with an added potency, so for 17-year-old Wray and Nephew rum with an equally impressive aged dark rum, a touch cocktail bars going around. Whether it be naturally Fosco obliged by applying a round the decadent streets of Carlton and Fitzroy of almond syrup, lime and Dutch Curacao. of Gin senza soda. or the contemporary eccentricity of our Within a couple of years the world’s entire At Der Raum (438 Church St, Richmond, supply of very old rum had been consumed in beloved CBD, there is no doubt you can find Melbourne), the focus is on making classics something to ease your mind and satisfy your Mai Tai’s. From there began a never ending with theatrical flair. Created in tribute to pallet. blending and sourcing to try and keep the the novel Perfume by Patrick Susskind original style, without being able to supply the this drink demonstrates the culmination of original rums. One of the great rum drinks, the Enjoy summer! inspiration, technology and seasonality to almond, lime and rum came together perfectly produce something uniquely suited to the and Victor himself must be credited, along current climate. Consisting of Martin Millers with Donn Beach, as one of the creators of Gin, Maraschino, Aperol and fresh lemon, Tiki, a cocktail culture all about fun, flavour this liquid base is embellished by fresh and relaxation. There is a distinct sense of romanticism about sitting at one of Melbourne’s finest bars, talking shop with the bartender, sipping slowly on a particular drink with a more profound history than our fine town itself. But, what to drink? And where? Not to mention when!?

jasmine and lavender picked daily from the surrounding streets of Richmond to create our own lavender enhanced bitters along with a jasmine distillate used to create a cloud of jasmine aroma (aka ‘the scent of a virgin’) which is layered upon the vessel. Thanks must go to Donn the Beachcomber for showing all bartenders everywhere that an unholy amount of different alcohols mixed up together can taste good!

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archie

archie DESIGNED IN MELBOURNE www.archieonline.com.au

Colab AUSTRALIAN EYEWEAR LABEL COLAB BELIEVES EYEWEAR IS NOT JUST FASHION BUT “ANOTHER MEDIUM FOR ART,” AND THEY STRIVE TO CREATE SUNGLASSES THAT TRANSCEND THE CONSTRAINTS OF TRADITIONAL DESIGN. FORGET ABOUT SIMPLE FUNCTION AND STYLE, THESE SHADES ARE LIKE ARTWORK FOR YOUR FACE.

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FJ O R D E

COLAB

MOVIES THAT LAUNCHED A STYLE OF SUNGLASSES: RISKY BUSINESS IN 1983 LAUNCHED RAY-BANS WAYFARERS TO CULT STATUS WITH 360,000 PAIRS SOLD THAT YEAR. A FEW YEARS LATER IN 1986 TOP GUN HELPED AVIATORS INCREASE IN POPULARITY. GOING FURTHER BACK IN TIME TO 1968, THE THOMAS CROWN AFFAIR LAUNCHED THE PERSOL 714 AS A CLASSIC STYLE FOR THE MODERN 1960S MAN. TERMINATOR IN 1984 LAUNCHED GARGOYLES ANSI CLASSICS SUNGLASSES AND WERE A HIT 80S STYLE. AS FOR WOMEN’S SUNGLASSES - WHO COULD FORGET AUDREY HEPBURN’S RAY-BAN RB 2140 WAYFARERS IN BREAKFAST AT TIFFANY’S IN 1961. SLIGHTLY LARGER AND MORE ROUNDED THAN THE STANDARD WAYFARERS THEY ARE THE EPITOME OF CLASSIC ELEGANCE - JUST LIKE AUDREY.

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SUMMER 2012

The styles on offer by COLAB include transparent frames, geometric shapes, classically modern styles and retro. They feature quirky additions like poetic inscriptions, removable stickers and masks and each pair comes with unique packaging including posters, hard covers and cleaning cloths all neatly contained in a cardboard tube package. They are unique, handmade, and limited edition, and with only 1000 often individually numbered pairs of each design produced, you really feel like you’re wearing a piece of artwork. As their name might suggest, central to this process is their belief in collaborating with the best local and international artists/designers, taking their creations and putting it on our faces. COLAB provides the blank canvas for artists, designers, innovators and creators from all around the world to sketch on, a unique idea involving new creative minds each season. From the very beginning the designers are given the freedom to create their own vision. There are no rules, and according to their lookbook, “no constraints, and no target markets to appease,” and this is what makes their designs so unique. COLAB’s mission is to give artists and designers from different industries and backgrounds a chance to apply their unique talents to a new medium without having to fit into a mold.

RISKY BUSINESS

RAY-BANS WAYFARERS

TOP GUN

RAY-BANS AVIATORS

This addition comes right on time for summer festivals and it’s custom-made quirky features like this, that make COLAB so damn cool. Collaboration with EBOY yielded similar results with designs you simply wont find anywhere else. The creative crew from Germany created a series of four sunglasses including the truly 80s inspired Dreckig. This style features a white metal frame with a boxy wrap-around lens and art featured on removable lens stickers. These bad boys bring to mind Robocop and those classic 80s wraparound ski glasses, and are a great find for 80s aficionados.

The most recognizable COLAB styles however have to be the classic Corbu and Daylighter. Unless you’ve been living under a rock for the past few years you’re bound to have seen these frames around, or knockoffs. They are a favorite of celebrities and mere mortals alike, and have been adapted by designers from H&M to Armani. Created by renowned young artist Geoff Mcfetridge they showcase his signature vintage style with teeth art decal mounted onto acetate front, with a poem printed on the inside of the right temple. COLAB is excited to be currently collaborating with international street artist Above, who is known for his full colour social and political stencils. His talent and hunger for experimentation ensure that COLAB’s next series of eyewear is sure to surprise. You can buy your own unique pair at General Pants Co., Fat, Someday Store, Rhombus Surf Shop, The Lab and on their website www.colab.com.au

WRITTEN BY CLAIRE STORY

The Presets teamed up with designer Jonathan Zawada and COLAB to produce three pairs of seriously cool glasses. Their Pretty Little Eyes frames embody all the important elements of The Presets. They’re futuristic, shiny and out of this world! And just what we’ve come to expect from the electro duo. These silver metallic babies have a similar look to John Lennon’s iconic round sunglasses, but with an irresistible space age twist.

TERMINATOR

GARGOYLES ANSI CLASSICS

Images courtesy of Colab eyewear

The key to their success is finding the right artist who can bring their vision to life, and since 2007, COLAB has collaborated with some of the coolest, most talented and innovative artists and designers around the world.

The most recent collaborator was Australian born international street artist Anthony Lister who created the Vacation On The Sun sunglasses. Mixing design aesthetics from Ray-Bans wayfarer and Persol 714, the shades include a removable ‘superhero meets birds of paradise’ mask, which is limited to the first 250 orders. The mask comes in red, yellow and blue, but don’t assume you get to pick the color, that’s COLAB’s surprise.

THE THOMAS CROWN AFFAIR

PERSOL 714

BREAKFAST AT TIFFANY’S

RAY-BAN RB 2140 WAYFARERS

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FJ O R D E

TUK TUK

KNOCK-KNOCK, Being in our wonderful city I spend every spare moment I have wandering through tiny alleyways and arcades filled with all sorts of brilliant and eclectic stores. I was in fact on a mission to buy a dress for myself. I knew exactly what I wanted but somehow every dress I tried on seemed to be the wrong fabric, the wrong fit and just all-round the wrong dress. So if women have this much trouble finding that perfect garment then do men face this problem too? It was then that I came across a relatively new brand in the market that has a very different fashion ideology. TukTuk is a boutique indie clothing company, selling chinos, shirts and shorts and now allows you to custom build

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your own shirt. It’s called a “bespoke shirt” and customers will be able to enter their own measurements and specific design details to have their very own TukTuk Bespoke shirt handmade. Mark Scholes is the founder, designer and creative director genius of TukTuk, who spends the majority of his time between Manchester, U.K and Colombo and Sri Lanka. The brand is styled towards the British market but gains much of its essence from the delightful sights, colours and personalities of South East Asia. In fact that’s exactly where the name of this label comes from. “A tuktuk is the rickety three wheeler form of transport which has become synonymous

with most of Asia,” says Mark. “In the early days of setting up the brand, I seemed to spend the majority of my life in the back of one. It seemed right to name the brand after one.” And now, with the help of the new Australian team, TukTuk is finally coming down under. Several years after completing his International Fashion Marketing degree at the Manchester Metropolitan University and working in the fashion industry, Mark came to the realization that the industry was not all he had hoped for. “I’d say the brand originated mainly through the pure frustration of both my job, and the lack of good menswear on offer. I was finding it increasingly difficult to buy any clothes that

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it’s TUK-TUK! look sharp,” says Mark. “Ideally, I would love the brand to develop into a lifestyle brand over the years. TukTuk is much more that a clothing brand, there is a culture within it, it encapsulates a colourful life, music for example is a big love of ours & we are slowly Equipped with this desire to create great fitting also moving into that space”. styles for men, Mark enlisted the help of some Of course TukTuk’s repertoire is not limited to highly skilled professional tailors to create a shirts. The current collection includes an array small team with Mark as head designer. of chinos and shorts. The shirt collection is So what’s the brand all about? “First and centered around a vibrant assortment of floral, foremost we hope that the customer enjoys checkered and stripe fabrics in tasteful palettes their purchase and gets some good use/wear like lemon and salmon pastels, as well as more out of it. Secondly, we take pride in the quality traditional reds, whites and blues. The new and fit of all our garments, so we hope the range of chinos are also daring in mustard customer feels like they are wearing a piece yellow, dusty red and powder blue, as well that is well made, well tailored, and that they as a stone colour for the more conventional I liked, or fitted me. In an effort to rectify this, I started to draw up my own designs, source my own fabrics and get shirts and shorts made locally,” says Mark of the origination of the label.

KRISTINA BOND

gents. Made up from light 100% cotton twill, they make the ideal trouser for the summer months ahead. TukTuk also design Bowling Bags to complete that street-cool look. The brand is now stocked in over 30 stores across 15 countries, including stores like ASOS, Coggles, No-One Shop & Black Sheep Road. In Australia you can now buy TukTuk from the on-line store www.wearetuktuk.com. au where they offer free shipping on all orders. Which is great for those wanting to design their very own custom made shirt. Now I can only hope someone comes up with a buildyour-own-dress brand!

Photographer: Woodrow Wilson Model: Luke [Darley]

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FJ O R D E

THE STREETS

THE_ STREETS PHOTOGRAPHER: FILIP KONIKOWSKI WRITTEN BY: BEN ANDERSON

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FJ O R D E

N TH AE ME S ?T?R?E?E T S

To truly understand the irrefutable style that is the ‘T Shirt & Jeans’, we have to be taken back to the man that started it all… James Dean. With his undeniable style of leather jackets, tight white tees and jeans, he was the King of Cool. It is this simplistic style that has evolved over the last half decade and taken a life all it’s own, to what we see on our streets today where the plain white tee no longer reigns supreme.

But this does not mean the market will be suddenly flooded. Instead it creates an environment of online boutiques and laneway markets previously unknown to the everyday shopper. It is these new market places that give the wearer the opportunity to find that perfect T-Shirt or jeans to reflect their own unique style and individuality.

It’s because of this that the tee has taken on a life of its own, with colour, flair and on occasion a rind stone or two and is It’s this evolution of street wear that has transformed this once simple garment into its representative of the changing state that own form of self-expression. This of particular fashion is continually in. importance for men because in a world where Melbourne is no exception to this with the most expressive they can be with their attire is the choice of tie they wear. The jeans many designers hidden in the cracks of the city. It only takes a casual walk through the and tee gives rise to a plethora of colour and street to stumble upon a design that truly flair from which they can make a statement speaks to the person you are. about who they are. Through this possibility of expressionism, it allows independent artists and designers to break through the mould and ‘be heard’ by those around them. The street wear movement has given greater scope to those young designers out there who are just trying to make their own mark.

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But it doesn’t end there; the tee is only one element of the overall look. To round it out, a sleek pair of jeans is the only way to go and from ripped to faded, skinny or straight the choices are now endless. Jeans while much the same have come a long way in their own right and in a time of customized fashion the

jean can be completely tailored to your shape, size and individual style. Living in an age of independent fashion labels where creativity is rife and ideas run free. The little guy is now able to not only complete with the big boys but do so on a worldwide scale. This evolution of street fashion has created a platform in which the consumer can trend towards individuality through limited runs rather than the mainstream mass-production. This ultimately begs the questions are the consumers of today more inclined to purchase mass-produced garments, or get behind homegrown Independent Designers? A choice we all have to make for ourselves, but I do encourage you to take a walk beyond your regular haunts, whether it be through your local markets or just a search on Facebook, and try something new. I’m sure you’ll discover an array of unique and vibrant designs that will be the perfect fit for you.

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THE STREETS

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THE STREETS

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THE STREETS

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Photographer: Filip Konikowski Model: Kacper [Darley] & Mikael [Darley] Styled by: Ben Anderson

Lunar Geometry [Sirius Grafik] US$39 Spitfire [The Real Pants Man] Ace of Spades Gold [Sirius Grafik] US$39 Spitfire [The Real Pants Man] Blue & White Basketball [Warrior Shoes] $79 We Make Our Truth [Sirius Grafik] US$39 Choose Your Weapon [Sirius Grafik] US$39 Scandal [Fontaine] $79 3D The King [Sirius Grafik] US$39 Red & Black Basketball [Warrior Shoes] $79 Snap Shot [Fontaine] $79 Tunnel Vision [Fontaine] $79 Duality [Fontaine] $79 |

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S P R I N G R A C I N G C A R N I VA L R E C A P

FROLICKING WITH THE FILLIES

WRITTEN BY: ALEX CYBULSKA

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Images Courtesy of SDP Media

MELBOURNE CUP

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he race that stops a nation has once again stopped Victoria in its tracks. For many, Melbourne Cup day is a fabulous excuse for a public holiday but for others, it’s an opportunity to frock up, stick hats onto our heads and frolic with our friends drinking champagne. And judging by the $100 million spent on betting this year, quite a few of us are partaking in the festivities! The races were inaugurated in 1861 and celebrated its 150th birthday last year. Held at Flemington Racecourse, the event occurs on the first Tuesday in November at 3pm (daylight saving time) and attracts many a fashionista and punter alike. Today, the total in prize money boasts $6 million dollars but when the Melbourne Cup first handed out prizes, a lucky winner received 710 gold sovereigns and a gold watch. These days, the cup you see kissed by jockeys in the newspapers is made with over 34 pieces of gold metal, which is lovingly crafted for over 200 hours, contains 1.65kg of 18 carat gold and is valued at $125,000. The jockey also receives a miniature replica. The fashions have a reputation of their own with the first Fashions on the Field conceived in 1962, and has since evolved to include Myer. This event has become one of the most important dates for milliners and designers and was originally established to tempt women to attend the races. In fact, it is the inclusion of this prestigious competition, which has upped the ante for attendees to wear their best frock and embezzle their hair with headpieces and hats. Meanwhile, I think we’ve all seen the black and white picture of Jean Shrimpton who attended the Spring Racing Carnival in 1965 without a hat or gloves and wearing a dress that fall several inches above her knee. Shocking. But at least it put the Melbourne Cup, and Melbourne Spring Racing in general, on the international radar. Judging by the sight of young girls clutching plastic bags to their mouths on the train ride home, a result of one-too-many champagnes, Cup day probably isn’t the most glamorous of events any more. The days of keeping your shoes on your feet and not getting mustard all over yourself when eating a hot dog are long gone. But the basic principle of going out with your friends and having a great time are still alive. And if you overdid it with the champagne, remember that other great Australian tradition … take a sickie.

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FA S H I O N

A Very Hairy Issue: To fur or not to fur? BY RACHEL FARAH Despite the fashion industry being quite potent one full-length fur coat. Shocked yet? in what’s acceptable to wear and what’s not, To be fair, not all fur farms are that cruel; one grey area is the allowance of wearing there are in fact fur farms and other fur authentic animal fur. distributors that act humanely in the way they treat and skin their animals. Quite There are multiple views on this issue, frankly, our ancestors have been wearing real especially whether fashion is truly worth fur for centuries, so why can’t we, if made the animal cruelty and if it is indeed cruelty respectfully? Furthermore, animals that are in the first place. killed for their fur are killed for their meat Popular wearable furs include foxes, minks, also. In many respects, if the animal were rabbits, raccoons and bears. Out of these, being killed for their meat, then it would make approximately 85% are from fur factory farms. sense to also use their fur for clothing rather And this is where the core problem lies; how than to be thrown out. these animals are treated at these fur farms. According to People for the Ethical Treatment The question is, as consumers, how would we know who we’re buying from, and how of Animals (PETA) animals are dealt with the animal on our backs were being killed? such cruelty, they are determined to let the world know where people are buying their fur. It’s reported that some animals in countries are stolen from households. And how do Watching a clip on their website by they get away with this? Mislabelling. As a undercover investigators from the Swiss consumer who would choose to pay extra for Animal Protection/East International is confirmation of the animal being killed before heartbreaking. It films explicit footage of an skinned it is very how frustrating. animal fur farm in China, where animals are The debate goes on in the fashion world, beaten, strangled, or stomped to death. And where celebrities such as Paris Hilton, Nicole why? So as to not damage their fur. A part Richie and Lindsay Lohan are supportive of this clip actually shows trappers skinning of wearing fur and are often snapped by a racoon alive and is quite an emotional few paparazzi and scrutinised for wearing various minutes to watch. What’s scary is that there fur garments. The common denominator? are no laws or penalties against such animal They are young style-icons. Although they are cruelty in some countries, including the entitled to wear what they like, they neglect world’s largest fur exporter, China. the social responsibility they have. What a Therefore it’s not just the way animals are style-icon does, fans follow without question. skinned which is cruel, but how they are Because, the celebrity is always right…right? treated during the process. PETA claims However, it is not just these girls who are that animals are trapped in crowded and deemed irresponsible. Lady Gaga wore a unsheltered cages. Now if 85 per cent of whole dired meat outfit at the 2010 MTV the industry comes from fur farms, and VMA’s. In criticising these girls, is Lady approximately 40 million animals are killed for their fur, then it is clear that activists have Gaga allowed to get away with such an outfit because she strives to seek attention not just good reason to persuade the world to stay away from wearing real fur. To put it another from her music, but also from her quirky and at times offensive sense of style? Is she at all way, it can take up to forty animals to make 50

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better than girls who wear fur, or just as bad? And what type of example is she setting? On the other end of the spectrum, to promote anti-fur, PETA has been strategic in using high-end celebrities such as Charlize Theron, Natalie Imbruglia and Eva Mendes, with advertising claiming they would rather go naked than wear fur. In comparison to celebrities like Paris, Nicole and Lindsay, they are well-liked and admired and focus on environmental awareness, therefore enabling them to reach a wider and older demographic. Wearing fur is not just a fashion statement, but also a statement of one’s level of class due to the high expense and exclusivity. Yet after reading the above facts, how truly classy and glamorous could it be to wear animal fur on your body, when most likely than not, the animal has been brutally murdered? Aside from the process of these garments being made, the cost by consumers to buy real fur is quite expensive. A cheap and great alternative is faux fur. Compared to spending up to thousands for a fur coat, you could pay just a few hundred. So again the question, is being glamorous really worth the cost of cruelty to animals? So we have to ask ourselves, are we to leave fighting for the protection of animal rights to organisations such as PETA, or can we as consumers and fashion lovers help too? We can educate ourselves and others, especially young girls, with where and how the fur we buy is made, rejecting to buy fur from fur farms, and wearing alternative materials, such as faux fur. Fashion can have some crazy and quirky trends, but let’s treat some fashion icons, such as fur, with some dignified respect. For more information on anti-fur, please visit the PETA website: http://www.peta.org

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Artwork By Woodrow Wilson

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T H A N K Y O U WAT E R

BY AARON WEINMAN THE AMOUNTS OF CHARITABLE ORGANISATIONS IN THE WORLD ARE ACCESSIBLE FROM ALL ANGLES FOR PEOPLE FROM ALL CORNERS OF THE WORLD. HOWEVER AN ORGANISATION WITH A DIFFERENCE IN CHANGING THE WORLD ALWAYS WELLS UP ONE’S EYES. THANKYOU WATER IS AN ORGANISATION WITH A DIFFERENCE. A SOCIAL ENTERPRISE TO BRING SAFE WATER TO PEOPLE IN DEVELOPING NATIONS THROUGH A VERY SIMPLE PURCHASE – WATER. Providing what could arguably be the most integral source on the planet to some of the world’s most desolate communities, Thankyou Water is an innovative philanthropic means with a very prosperous end. People in villages all over the third world struggle to attain the relevant nutrition and privileges that we, as lucky individuals, take for granted. Here is a post from a grateful individual in South-East Asia, and this is merely one example of the brilliant scheme behind Thankyou Water. “My name is Hen Nhen, I am 48 years old, and live in Kbal Tnol village, Seb commune, Kampong Tralach district, Kampong Chhang

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province. I have two children. I am a farmer. I have had a Bio Sand Filter (BSF) for 8 months now and I now have enough clean water to use every day from this BSF. “Before, my family and I drank unclean water from a well or river directly without boiling. We had many sicknesses. My children often couldn’t got to school because of diarrhea, stomach aches, typhoid and worms. We spent a lot of money for medicines and going to the clinic. We couldn’t save any money. “We treasure this BSF, because it eliminates all pathogens from unclean water. It produces

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Thankyou Water has provided the priceless liquid to remote villages in countries such as Kenya and Rwanda. Many villages in these dire countries have access to safe and clean water through projects Thankyou Water were able to fund.

“I would like to thank Thankyou Water and CGA-CHE staff for training us on health provision, clean water, hygiene sanitation and BSF.”

Personally for me it was an amazing experience to see young children have access to clean water, but the level of families that are limited in so much including access to water is unbelievable and not very easy on the emotional eye.

Personally, I was amazed at what I saw in a recent trip to Rwanda. I spent day’s tending to the growth and health of young Rwandan’s who are reeling in a country scarred from genocide and disbelief.

However in saying this, tending to sports games and tying this in with Thankyou Water for the kids was priceless, and the simple appreciation they all had was something that will never leave me. The smile on the faces of children, beaming up at you, when kids back home will merely snatch the water from your hand, just because they are parched. The scaling is different but the thought is always the same.

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Images Courtesy of Thank You Water

a lot of clean water for drinking, hand washing, cooking and cleaning vegetables. We have less sickness. Our health is improved. The BSF is very important because it gives us clean water for our living in rural community. We will use this BSF forever.

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your goals

MI GOALS

MOTIVATE YOURSELF IN 2012 As the New Year approaches we tend to reflect on the year gone by and make many promises and resolutions that the year ahead will be bigger and better. But sadly for many of us our promises never eventuate. One of the main reasons for this is we actually change very little to make our goals and dreams a reality. We somehow believe that things will simply happen, even if we don’t change a thing to make it happen. But Remember:

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“IF YOU ALWAYS DO WHAT YOU’VE ALWAYS DONE, THEN YOU’LL ALWAYS GET WHAT YOU’VE ALWAYS GOT”. So to really help make 2012 the best yet, here are 3 things you can do starting today which will have a lasting impact well beyond 2012;

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Ben Anderson sits down with Adam Jelic, a young Melbourne entrepreneur who is taking the organised world by storm. Founder of Mi Goals a motivational tool for achieving success has a plan to inspire and help 1,000,000 people in the next 5 years to achieve their goals.

TELL US ABOUT WHAT MI GOALS IS AND HOW IT BEGAN Mi Goals is a Melbourne based lifestyle business in its 2nd year of operation. Right now the business creates urban savvy stationery which aims to inspire and help individuals become aware of their goals, achieve them, and live inspired lives. I started Mi Goals initially to create a tool and product for myself, as a young 20-something professional I found a real lack of practical tools for goal setting that was visually appealing and spoke the language of my generation. Even now the products Mi Goals creates are all products I personally use.

WHY IS IT IMPORTANT TO WRITE YOUR GOALS DOWN? The human brain is a complex thing; they say we average around 70,000 thoughts every day. Writing your goals down and referring to them on daily basis helps keep you focused on things that are important to you and things you want to accomplish. And it’s track record speaks for itself some of our greatest leaders, innovators, entrepreneurs and athletes speak about the importance of writing and achieving their goals people such Oprah Winfrey, Anthony Robbins and Lance Armstrong.

WHAT’S YOUR ADVICE TO PEOPLE WHO WANT TO START THEIR OWN BUSINESS? Do something you are truly passionate about and I guess be realistic about the whole thing. The reality is not every business has the potential to become the next Facebook or Apple. This doesn’t mean don’t go out there and do it, it just means set attainable goals for yourself because success fosters greater success. Lastly and most importantly be a doer and not just another talker, I believe everyone has at least 1 great idea so don’t just talk about it; give it a go. You don’t know what you can achieve until you try.

MI GOALS IS DESIGNED AND MADE IN MELBOURNE, WHY NOT OVERSEAS?

More than that I hope to see Mi Goals becoming one of the leading lifestyle brands in Australia. The exciting thing about Mi Goals is that its not limited to any one industry or market. The fact of the matter is people have goals in many different areas of their lives. So it’s our goal to create and offer tools, products and services which help them be inspired and achieve those goals.

BEFORE WE LET YOU GO, TELL US WHO INSPIRES YOU? Apart from the obvious pioneers such as Steve Jobs, Richard Branson, Oprah and Anthony Robbins. I tend to be inspired by individuals who are well rounded and have a sense of balance across most aspects of their lives. Zig Ziglar puts it best “I believe that being successful means having a balance across the many areas of your life. You can’t truly be considered successful in your business life if your home life is in shambles.”

Fundamental to support local Melbourne based manufacturers and workers. The same To find out more about Mi Goals go to: goes for the design and feel of Mi Goals, there migoals.com.au are some amazing local designers like the guys from Studioktober. They’ve helped put our vision onto paper and make Mi Goals products really stand out with its unique style, content and design.

WHERE DO YOU HOPE TO SEE MI GOALS IN 5 YEARS TIME? To have inspired 1,000,000 people by 2016 to go after their goals, to write them down and make goal setting a part of their lives.

1. WRITE YOUR GOALS:

2. DEVELOP A VISION BOARD:

3. KEEP A GRATITUDE JOURNAL:

Don’t just guess your way through your life, have a plan, have a purpose and act on it. Writing your goals should be fun and inspiring because you are creating your own masterpiece the way you want.

Seeing is believing! Similar to writing your goals down visually seeing your dreams in front of you helps ingrain what you desire to achieve and have, and creates clarity and focus.

Life is never perfect, the reality is we have our good days and we have our bad days. Keeping a gratitude journal and writing in it helps you appreciate the things in your life and most importantly helps give you some perspective on life itself.

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A R A B E L L A R A M S AY

ROAD SIDE FASHION PHOTOGRAPHER: WOODROW WILSON

ARABELLA R A M S AY

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A R A B E L L A R A M S AY

YE LL OW BEL LS SINGL ET $219

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O H I A FL O RAL D R E S S $429

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Photographer: Woodrow Wilson Hairstyling & Make Up: Samantha Coles Model: Paris [London MGT]

L A C E Y L O V E TO P $189

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NAME????

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HALSINKY PROJECT

COLOUR SUMMER HALSINKY PROJECT PHOTOGRAPHER: FILIP KONIKOWSKI

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HALSINKY PROJECT

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HALSINKY PROJECT $199

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HALSINKY PROJECT $189

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HALSINKY PROJECT

HALSINKY PROJECT $189

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Photographer: Filip Konikowski Styling: Ben Anderson Hairstyling & Make Up: Sarah Dalton Model: Hayley [Darley]

HALSINKY PROJECT $149

Clockwise from top left: Tomoko Konoike Mimio - Four Seasons 1999-2000, Simryn Gill Inland at CCP 2009, Anne Noble Penguin Keeper [Antarctica, Nagoya, Japan] 2003, Michael Corridore: Untitled #28 2007, Georgia Metaxas Untitled #1 from the series The Mourners 2010-2011, Patricia Piccinini The Fitzroy Series 2011 CCP 2011

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C E N T R E FO R CO N T E M P O R A RY P H OTO G R A P H Y FJ O R D E

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“A PICTURE TELLS….” ONE OF MELBOURNE’S PREMIER ART GALLERIES. BY CLAIRE STORY

Contemporary photography is an entry point to contemporary art and ideas. You need only think of Andy Warhol’s work to realize that contemporary art and photography are inextricably linked. Photography is everywhere in modern society and plays a big role in the contemporary art scene in Melbourne. Director of the Centre for Contemporary Photography (CCP), Naomi Cass, offered her insights into the culture of contemporary photography in Melbourne and how places like CCP contribute to this cultural phenomenon. “Photography is a huge practice in our society and a very diverse practice,” Naomi says. “People might think because photography is so ubiquitous its just one thing, but its not, its huge.” So if you think photography is finished as an art form, you’re dead wrong! Photography is currently undergoing changes and improvements, and is constantly evolving as an art form. 25 years ago it would have been hard to find many photography exhibitions, however advances in technology mean that photography is everywhere, and these days anyone with a smart-phone can be a shutterbug. The rise of the citizen-photographer is the most topical issue in contemporary photography. “The whole mix of where the subject matter comes from has changed,” Naomi explains. She believes this is a great advantage for the industry because now people of all ages can relate to it. Everyone has tried their hand at photography, whether it be on an analog camera, digital camera or smart-phone, which means that it’s very accessible for people. Audiences are more literate, and because everyone can do it they have an insight into it, and this results in a richer engagement in photography. “That’s what these digital technologies are about, giving people a sense of agency,” Naomi explains.

As one of Australia’s premier photography galleries, CCP has played an active role in the culture of photography in Melbourne. Established in 1986 by “contemporary artists, writers and photographers who felt that photography was a bit neglected in the pantheon of contemporary art,” Naomi says CCP is “a place where we can look more critically and more fancifully at what photography is doing.” CCP shows a variety of different and unique exhibitions, yet they don’t aim to show “pretty pictures of things.” They are concerned with the way “photography engages with ideas, technologies, the world, issues, experience, and expression – and photography is very good at doing all of those things,” Naomi explains.

Admission is free but CCP is a membership organization so people are also invited to join for a small fee. Being a member organization, Naomi says, “we really think about what it is that were doing and what we are contributing … everyone is entitled to come here in the community.” CCP’s strong community focus means they are not content with just putting art up on the wall. There are seminars on Saturday after every exhibition launch, artist floor talks and lectures, as well as publishing catalogues. With this, it is clear education is very important to CCP; they have an education space and very active education programs. They also run courses for various groups in the community, for example their Youth at Risk program. “You would be surprised to know how many people still aren’t really comfortable coming into galleries” Naomi says, and this is something that CCP is trying to change. They are successful in getting people into galleries and into photography by one of their initiatives, the Kodak Salon. It is an exhibition in which the public submits their work and CCP then presents every photo that is submitted. There can be as many as 400-500 photographs which get hung in a salon (from floor to ceiling) in one of the gallery spaces. The Kodak Salon is one of CCP’s most popular exhibitions and “It is a really important way of people getting a sense of ownership and participation,” Naomi states. “We try to deliver something that artists feel very proud to be associated with,” says Naomi and that’s what you get at CCP. “It offers a space artists are proud of, a space where the public can go and engage in contemporary photography, and where we can be a part of it ourselves.”

Images Courtesy of Centre of Contemporary Photography

Even during a slow down in the economy photography remains strong and new trends are emerging in Melbourne. Street photography is popular with younger people because it’s “about bearing witness to the ordinary moments of a young persons life… and it’s a very strong thread at the moment, especially in Melbourne,” Naomi states.

One of the coolest features of CCP is their Night Projection Window, which can include still images, slideshows or moving images and spills out onto the street at night for everyone to see. It has been running for six years and is a unique initiative that “helps to get the art into the community and the community into the art,” says Naomi.

With multiple exhibitions, projects and programs happening now and over the next year, CCP plays an integral role in contemporary photography in Melbourne. It has helped to raise the status of contemporary photography and enabled its development and success as a prominent art form in Melbourne.

BY CLAIRE STORY

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LANIE LANE

Lanie Lane

Since being discovered by Triple J Unearthed in 2010, Lanie Lane has been kept on her toes. The Sydney songstress has now become internationally known for her infectious blues ensembles and luscious vocals. Listening to her live or on the radio is like stepping back into a bygone era when dinner was served at 6:30pm and petrol was still leaded. Not surprisingly, she has been whisked around Europe for a whirlwind tour and has also fit in time this year to record with none other than Jack White of The White Stripes and The Dead Weather fame. Stunning as ever in fitted sky blue jeans with her signature red pout and shiny brown pin curls, Lanie Lane sat down with FJORDE to discuss her debut album To the Horses.

F: You’ve been so busy on tour and recording in the US! What have the highlights been?

LL: Playing to different audiences! Everything was great, it was especially nice going to New York and having people actually come to my show! I was wondering, “where did these people come from and how do they know who I am?!?!”

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BY SONIA KHAN

F: It must have also been a great experience to record with Jack White while you were over there. Did it have a big impact on your music? LL: It taught me the way I like to record and what works. Like getting a band in the studio and recording all at once for example. He [Jack White] was like that too so it worked well. F: As an artist, you’re voice and song writing abilities stand out compared to modern artists. Did you a very musical background?

LL: My family was from England, and came to Australia when I was two. Because we had no family, we had to kind of make our own new family. A lot of our family friends were musicians, I have a lot of memories of music in our house. F: What did you listen to in your house?

LL: Early jazz, Mo town, classical and traditional folk. I loved signing along to the radio. Songs always stuck in my head! I was really good at remembering song lyrics which has definitely helped me as a songwriter. I wanted to be a singer when I was little. I suppose I forgot about my childhood singing dreams as I grew up. I played the trombone from 10 to 15 and started playing guitar toward the end of that. That’s when I suppose I re-realised my dream of being a musician.

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Images Courtesy of MG Promotions

F: That makes sense given the style of your music. Have you had many changes in your song writing over time?

LL: Yeah definitely. I’ve been writing songs for 10 to 15 years and it takes a while to get a style that suits you. Lyrically I used to be more abstract but now I’m a lot straighter forward. Although I still experiment with different sounds and genres. Song writing is a pretty personal thing. No amount of attention or pressure can really affect the way you make a song. Not positively anyway. The song is the most important thing to me and I wouldn’t change that. The other artists and labels I’ve worked with have respected that which is good, they trust my process and believed in me. F: What inspires your music?

LL: If I’m going through something really intense or dramatic, I may come up with something. Life experiences and hearing other people’s music is also usually really inspiring. I’d advise people to get out of their comfort zone if they want to be inspired. Sometimes alone time is also important to let those ideas come out. Lucky for me it’s usually at fairly convenient times. Usually I’ll start with coming up with a guitar chord or idea and I’ll play it till find the right feel, then the melody and

the lyrics start to flow. Vocally, I love Ella Fitzgerald and Elana Sloe from Sydney. I watched her play for 10 years and I adore her voice. Motown, blues... and modern stuff. I love Cloud Control, they’re such a cool modern band! Fearless Vampire Killers and Miss Little are also incredible performers. I’m influenced by the people around me. F: So now that you’re back in Australia, what’s your plan for the Summer?

LL: I’m going back to the UK and the States on Sunday, I’ll have two more tours after that when I get back around Australia. Hopefully when I get back I’ll have some time to hangout with my family and go to the beach! F: Tell me about your album, To the Horses.

LL: Horses are quite a free spirit. For me it’s like a fierce passion for life and music and making sure appeals to people who are thinking like-mindedly. I identify with that feeling, I do things the way that makes sense to me. This year has been a very lucky year and a lot of people have supported me. It’s really nice to have that sort of support.

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FJ O R D E

A N DY O U C H TO M S KY

OUCH HERALDING THE NEW ERA OF ELECTRONIC MUSIC IN AUSTRALIA. INTERVIEW BY SONIA KHAN. PHOTOGRAPHER: FILIP KONIKOWSKI IN MELBOURNE’S EVER EVOLVING DUBSTEP AND BASS MUSIC SCENE, LOCAL DISC JOCKEY OUCH (ANDY OUCHTOMSKY) IS MAKING SUBSONIC WAVES WITH HIS APPRECIATION FOR OLD SCHOOL AND NEW WAVE SOUNDS. AT 20 AND DJING FOR LESS THAN 2 YEARS, HE HAS AN OVERWHELMING AFFINITY FOR THE CRAFT AND HAS ALREADY GARNERED WIDE RECOGNITION, PLAYING AROUND MELBOURNE AT HEAVY INNIT, WOBBLE, TWISTED AUDIO AND ALL CITY BASS. WITH DARK AMBIENT BASSLINES AND A FUSION OF FUTURISTIC SYNTHS AND JUMP-UP ELEMENTS, OUCH’S UNIQUE AUDIO EXPERIENCE APPEALS TO YOUNG AND OLD.

FJORDE chats with the young gun to talk all things music and inspiration. FJORDE: You’ve come into the spotlight for spinning dubstep predominantly, what else do you like to work into the mix? Ouch: While I mainly spin dubstep and drum and Bass, I’m not one to discriminate. I’ll listen to anything from minimal, techno, deep house to glitch hop and psytrance. If it’s good music, I’ll listen to it. Obviously you have to be congruent with your set though, so while you won’t hear all those sounds mashed in together, they do filter into the finished product.

O: Deep, Dark and Dangerous! However I try to incorporate as many styles of dubstep as possible because these days people don’t want to be hearing just the same kind of sound, whether it be really deep or really... in your face. I try to keep it fresh, changing it up as much as possible. Personally, I have a pretty short attention span so if I feel like a mix is dragging I’ll switch it up as soon as possible. F: How would you characterise dubstep, both technically and in its meaning??

O: For me dubstep is the transformation of early UK garage and grime with obvious influences from jungle and drum and bass. It’s given birth to this generally confused F: Most people, thinking dubstep, don’t realise baby, ‘dubstep’. The name carries with it two there’s actually heaps of variety in its sounds obvious concepts a 2 step beat that contains from really hard wobbley stuff to deeper elements of dub, so a deep sub bass. sounds closer to its origins in dub and dub reggae. Where abouts would you say you fit in It wasn’t until I first went to Laundry Bar for a Heavy Innit gig and physically felt the music with it all? that I knew this was the sound for me.

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There’s a quote by Pinch which I find sums up the sound and experience. “If your chest ain’t rattlin’ it ain’t happenin’.” That’s real sub bass and that’s real dubstep. F: You have an amazing ear, where did your foray into music begin? O: I learnt guitar and saxophone growing up and played in the jazz and concert bands at school. I enjoyed playing and improvising but found the constraints of the instruments sound get pretty boring over time. Near the end of high school I started immersing myself in electronic dance music and was introduced to dubstep by my older brother who had been going out to the monthly party Wobble. I started spinning late 2009, my mate and I bought a pair of CDJ’s and I haven’t looked back since.

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Photographer: Filip Konikowski

F: Whats your production focus at the moment O: I think originally we were more closely in tuned to the UK sound but as dubstep and who/what has influenced you? has gotten more commercialised, the sound O: Production focus currently, is spending as people are predominantly hearing at clubs much time as I can getting down ideas and and on the radio is quite in your face. It’s a making as many tracks as possible. I’m also shame because people now ask me, “You collaborating on a number of tunes with fellow play dubstep so you like Skrillex”. I don’t Melbourne local, Baron Von Rotten. The personally have an affinity for that music, I style of Dj Madd and Seven have definitely can understand that it might be fun to jump influenced my production and for me they can around like a fish, but it has an expiry date and do no wrong! The recent Phalaeh album and its turning dubstep into a passing fad. That’s ‘purpley’ synth stylings of Mensah, Joker and sad because dub is a spiritual music [as part of Sukh Knight also hit my sweet spot. I’m also the Rastafarian movement]. really vibeing to the resurgence of ‘Amen’ This year has been the start of big things styled rave tunes from the likes of Skream and EmalKay. I think this style has come back for Ouch, he’s scheduled to play at both Strawberry Fields and Summadayze and in contrast to the heavy styles of dubstep, has tracks in production, awaiting release. because the emphasis is on having fun and Hopefully the amount of exposure from hard grooves rather than coming up with the the heavier styles will mean that listeners biggest drop. will look deeper into the genre and expose F: What’s your take on Australia’s dubstep themselves to other kinds of dubstep. culture and scene?

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Gingerlee FJ O R D E

CAFE REVIEW

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PHOTOGRAPHER: FRANCESCO VICENZI REVIEWED BY: BEN ANDERSON

SUMMER 2012

SUMMER IS PEEKING ITS HEAD AROUND THE CORNER AND IT CAN MEAN ONLY ONE THING, MELBOURNE’S CAFÉ CULTURE IS ABOUT TO EXPLODE WITH LIFE ONCE AGAIN. AND NO EXCEPTION TO THIS IS BRUNSWICK’S GINGERLEE, A CAFÉ WITH CHARACTER AND A HISTORY OF MOTORCYCLE ROOTS. Sitting outside on the sun-soaked street corner Gingerlee graces, we chatted with the helpful and friendly staff. The staff members represent a rockabilly flare and reflect the establishment’s heritage, transforming it into the welcoming, relaxed and laid-back atmosphere that is Gingerlee. Flavours come alive with a new menu, which keeps some old favourites around. There are ample choices on the menu from breakfast to lunch so you are sure to find something to your liking. Of note was the Syrian French toast with orange blossom syrup, honey labne and stewed rhubarb. A unique taste palette, combining a range of flavours, which creates a new take on an old favourite. But if you’re looking for something more traditional, the egg and bacon Panini with tomato chutney is a flavoursome classic that is perfect for a quick and easy hangover cure. Gingerlee is a stylish and energy driven café at the top end of Lygon Street with character, rich history and a distinctive rockabilly flavour. It is the perfect place to kick back and relax in the Sunday morning sun and enjoy a late brunch this summer season!

GINGERLEE

117 Lygon Street, Brunswick East 3057 VIC (03) 9380 4430

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FJ O R D E

STO C K I ST

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