Flamingo Magazine

No.

14

Veep’s Tony Hale O N G R O W I N G U P I N T A L L A H A S S E E THE TRAVEL ISSUE

For Floridians. By Floridians.

75

WAYS TO FALL IN LOVE c THE SUNSHINE STATE DEEP IN THE EVERGLADES,

TARPON FISHING WITH HELL’S BAY PRO BENNY BLANCO

Y

PLUS

THE HOTTEST TABLES IN

TAMPA

FLY ME TO THE MOON:

THE SPACE COAST’S G L O RY D AYS A R E B A C K

BORN TO RIDE:

ROAD-TRIPPING FLORIDA n YOUR BEST FOUR-LEGGED FRIEND

Uniquely grown in its native forest environment, Guayaki Yerba Mate is cherished as a sacred beverage.

Reach deep into yerba mate culture and you’ll discover people have long gathered to imbibe mate to awaken the mind, perform extraordinary feats and to exchange confidences. Even Yari, the mythical goddess of mate decrees it the symbol of friendship.

Guayakí’s vision holds that yerba mate culture will power our Market Driven Regeneration™ business model to regenerate ecosystems and create vibrant communities.

guayaki.com

Vacation Like a VIP through Sept 30

Lauderdale-By-The-Sea

Explore a vibrant collection of activities in Greater Fort Lauderdale, and enjoy VIP status when you book a 2-night stay at a participating resort. Receive $100 resort credit, room upgrades, 2-for-1 savings on things to do and more. Start your summer adventure at sunny.org/vip

explorers wanted

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— s ummer 20 1 9 —

CONTENTS F E AT U R E S

48

58

68

78

A DOG’S DAY

FLASH BACK 1969 THE SPACE RACE THEN AND NOW

DOWN WHERE THE TARPON ROLL

A TABLE FOR TAMPA

B Y B LA N E B A C H E L O R

Captain Benny Blanco poles us deep into the River of Grass in a hunt for tarpon. But with Glades restoration forever bogged by politics, will the world’s most diverse fishing grounds remain?

BY ERIC BARTON

Road-tripping with your pup once equaled sparse motels, but now some of the state’s finest hotels beckon dog owners with luxury packages. To explore this new era, we head to a Key Largo property where dogs rule.

Cover Photography by

Remember the thrill of watching the space shuttle streak across the sky?

Private spaceflight might just restore Cape Canaveral to its former glory.

MARY BETH KOETH

On the cover: Model Noah Sanford takes Piper the golden retriever out for a perfect top-down ride in this 1967 Toyota FJ40 Land Cruiser.

On this spread: Model Noah Sandford and Piper park the Cruiser and check out the waves at Ponte Vedra Beach.

Photography by MARY BETH KOETH

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FLAMINGOMAG.COM /// S U M M E R 2 0 1 9

BY BUCKY MCMAHON

B Y LA U R A R E I L E Y

What for years might have sounded like chamber of commerce wishful thinking has now come true: Tampa Bay (and nearby St. Petersburg) are a legit dining mecca. A lauded critic takes us on a twincity tour of her favorites.

D E PA R T M E N TS

16

45

WADING IN

COLUMNS

ON THE FLY

18 /// THE SPREAD: A “gateway grill” leads to one woman’s obsession.

45 /// C APITAL DAME: Diane Roberts mourns her childhood Garden of Eden, destroyed last year by Hurricane Michael

94 /// BIRD’S-EYE VIEW: Tampa’s best neighborhoods for dining and shopping

22 /// M ADE IN FLA: Ride, hike, camp and carry in style this summer.

27 /// FLAMINGLE: Wellness experts changing the way the world lives 28 /// F LEDGLINGS: Add Claire Vandiver to the blues-pop playlist.

30 /// O NE-ON-ONE: Actor Tony Hale channels the obnoxious Tallahassee kid he once was.

36 /// T HE STUDIO: Hastily sketched chalk wings lift a Deland artist

89 /// PANHANDLING: Love and guilt collide when a widow reunites with her old college flame.

96 /// F LORIDA WILD: In the Ten Thousand Islands, Carlton Ward Jr. captures a Florida where water and mangrove swamp seem to stretch on forever.

93 98 /// G ROVE STAND: A Miami chef reinvents our understanding of Indian food by serving what he always cooked for friends.

103 /// THE ROOST: From gyms to spas to pools and waterfront views, these homes are built for a healthy lifestyle.

107 /// T HE TIDE: Twenty-seven reasons to jump in your car and go somewhere 112 /// FLORIDIANA: Mud-boggin’ and street cruisin’ in a 1967 Toyota FJ40

39 /// JUST HATCHED: Where to eat, stay, play and shop all summer long

S U M M E R 2 0 1 9 /// FLAMINGOMAG.COM

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EDITOR’S NOTE

T

here are very few places on this Earth I wouldn’t travel to. Before I moved back to Florida in 2012, my family and I lived in London, Moscow and even Douala, Cameroon. The one place not on my bucket list? Outer space. The idea freaks me out. If Elon Musk himself gave me a seat on a Falcon rocket, I’d have to give it to my husband or my photo editor, Ellen.

Both have said they’d gladly suit up and blast through the ozone layer into space.

Until recently, I hadn’t even made it as far as the John F. Kennedy Space Center, just three hours down I-95. But the seemingly constant stream of news about SpaceX rockets and launches made me realize I needed to check things out.

My sister-in-law Sara and I loaded up three of our girls (Wallis, 12, Elle, 12, and Audrey, 7) and drove to Cape Canaveral.

As we crossed the bridge over the Indian River, sailboats bobbing in the water below, the girls screamed with excitement.

I admit, I was excited to see real rocket ships too.

We spent the day wandering the exhibits in awe of the space shuttles and spacesuits on display, watching short films on famous astronauts (a la 1990s Epcot) and eating suspect park food like astronaut ice cream. The Space Center’s kitschy-futuristic design is more George Jetson than Elon Musk, which for a while had me feeling the nostalgia of being a teenager on a school field trip—only this time I had my two kids with me.

In the meantime, Elle was frantically looking for her cell phone, lost near the Atlantis exhibit, while Audrey was begging to buy an astronaut costume.

Somewhere between the lost-and-found

and the souvenir shop, I was plucked out of my state of wonderment and transported back to present-day motherhood.

“That’ll be $178.40, please,” said the smiling cashier.

One flight suit, two tie-dyed NASA sweatshirts and a recovered cell phone later, we learned that this summer marks the 50th anniversary of the iconic Apollo 11 mission to the moon.

In Flamingo’s summer Travel Issue, writer Blane Bachelor remembers the Space Coast’s glory days in the 1980s, when she watched shuttle launches with her parents who had both worked in the space industry. Today, Cape Canaveral is booming with technology and innovation again. Hopefully her piece inspires you to make the journey, and see for yourself.

In our cover story, Flamingo contributing editor Eric Barton sets out on a road trip with his wife, Jill, and their sweet Chesapeake Bay retriever, Lucky, across the Sunshine State to prove that there’s much more to traveling with your best friend than cheap interstate motels, as they visit some of Florida’s finest resorts and boutique hotels.

Not too far from the luxurious suites of Miami, we go completely off-grid with conservation writer Bucky McMahon, who ventures deep into the Everglades with Hell’s Bay professional Benny Blanco.

While poling their skiff into the hinter regions of Florida Bay to hunt for tarpon, the dire state of a paradise nearly lost comes into focus.

Next we head northwest to Tampa for a tasting tour of Florida’s newest city to savor. Over the last 10 years, Tampa has quietly transformed from a chainrestaurant haven into a culinary mecca crawling with James Beard semifinalists.

Award-winning food writer Laura Reiley eats and drinks her way through her favorite spots from white-tablecloth dining rooms to repurposed shipping containers and every bite in between.

Beyond food, space, dogs and tarpon, we also have fascinating Floridians, like actor Tony Hale of Veep and Arrested Development. I had the pleasure of interviewing Hale, a self-described “spaz,” who shares memories of finding his comedic voice at a community theater in Tallahassee, where he grew up.

I hope these stories, and so many more, keep you returning to our pages all summer long. The great thing about Flamingo is that it travels well, by boat, car, plane—hell, it could even fly on a spaceship. So let me stop writing and start packing. It’s time to hit the road and see real Florida.

E di tor i n Chi ef & P u b lish e r

let us know what you think. Email me at jamie@flamingomag.com

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FLAMINGOMAG.COM /// S U M M E R 2 0 1 9

PHOTOGR APHY BY MARY BETH KOETH, MAKEUP BY JENNIFER COMEE WITH THE ROSY CHEEK

ready to launch

A C OL L ECT ION OF MUST-HAV ES & M UST-DOS .

BARTACO BUDDY BREW COFFEE CANVAS FASHION GALLERY CROWN & MANE DOWNTOWN DOGS LULULEMON ON SWANN SPRINKLES HYDEPARKVILLAGE.COM @HYDEPARKVILLAGE 1602 W. SNOW CIRCLE, TAMPA FL

ISSUE

CONTRIBUTORS

14

For Floridians. By Floridians.

• FOUNDED IN 2016 •

ERIC BARTON shares his love of dogs and travel in this issue of Flamingo with his piece on roadtripping, something he has done often around the Sunshine State, starting in college, when he’d drive 24 hours straight back to his hometown in New Hampshire. He counts among his favorite Florida road trips a solo motorcycle journey to Apalachicola, where State Road 98 makes a stunning pass along the Gulf. Eric’s work has appeared in the BBC, Bicycling Magazine, Food & Wine, Outside and Indulge Magazine. He lives in Fort Lauderdale with his wife, Jill, and road-trip pro, Lucky.

LESLIE CHALFONT is an artist based in Winter Park, with classical training in watercolors and oils, and the owner of Giddy Paperie, a boutique stationer and fine art retailer. She enjoys painting outdoors before an Old Florida scene and particularly loves our state parks and beaches.

The married mom of two never met a flower she didn’t like and loves all things citrus. Her work has appeared in national media outlets including The Today Show and Southern Living. The Tampa map in this edition is her 11th watercolor Birds-Eye View illustration for Flamingo.

— s u m m e r 20 1 9 —

EDITORIAL Editor in Chief and Founder JAMIE RICH jamie@flamingomag.com Consulting Creative Director Holly Keeperman holly@flamingomag.com Photo Editor and Senior Designer Ellen Patch ellen@flamingomag.com Senior Writer and Cont ributin g Editor Eric Barton Contributing Designer Victor Maze Cont ributin g Writers Blane Bachelor, Jeanne Craig, Christina Cush, Steve Dollar, Prissy Elrod, Camilla Herrera, Bucky McMahon, Laura Reiley, Diane Roberts, Maddy Zollo Rusbosin, Jennifer Walsh, Carlton Ward Jr. Contributing Photographers & Illustrators Leslie Chalfont, Beth Gilbert, Mary Beth Koeth, Stephen Lomazzo, Libby Volgyes, Carlton Ward Jr. Copy Editors & Fact Checkers Brett Greene, Katherine Shy Editorial Intern Megan Massion

SALES & MARKETING Publisher JAMIE RICH jamie@flamingomag.com Marketing & Promotions Annie Lee annie@flamingomag.com Digital Strategy Christina Clifford Marketing Intern Mae Logue For advertising inquiries email hello@flamingomag.com Contact Us

BUCKY MCMAHON is a writer and visual artist based in Tallahassee. His work, exploring subjects from folklore to astrophysics, has appeared in many national magazines, including Esquire, Outside, Men’s Journal and GQ. His book, Night Diver, a collection of adventure travel stories, is available from Anhinga Press. In this issue of Flamingo, he traveled to the most remote regions of the Everglades to go sportfishing with one of the state’s most sought-after guides. On the water McMahon casts for tarpon and for hope that the Everglades’ fisheries can be saved from a dire state of deterioration.

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FLAMINGOMAG.COM /// S U M M E R 2 0 1 9

P: (904) 395-3272, E: info@flamingomag.com All content in this publication, including but not limited to text, photos and graphics, is the sole property of and copyrighted by JSR Media and Flamingo. Reproduction without permission from the publisher is prohibited. We take no responsibility for images or content provided by our advertisers.

JSR MEDIA

LEFT, ERIC BARTON BY MARY BETH KOETH, PAT TERN:VEC TORSTOCK .COM

BLANE BACHELOR, in her first story for Flamingo, pays tribute to the 50th anniversary of the Apollo 11 mission. She recounts her childhood memories of shuttle launches and explores how the Space Coast has changed from the 1970s, when her parents fell in love there, to today’s renewed space race. Blane covers travel, outdoor adventure, wine and amazing women for outlets including New York, Outside, Cosmopolitan, Marie Claire, The Washington Post, and Men’s Journal. Born and raised in the Florida Panhandle, she now lives in San Francisco. She loves exploring Northern California but deeply misses Southern hospitality.

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Ten Thousand ISLANDS EXPLORER’S GUIDE:

This remote, magical wilderness is more accessible than you think

BY J E A N N E C R A I G

T

he Ten Thousand Islands, off Florida’s southwest coast, are remote and spectacular in their quiet beauty. They’re also vast as the area stretches from Marco Island south to Lostmans River, encompassing the Ten Thousand Islands National Wildlife Refuge and Everglades National Park. It’s been called one of the world’s most mysterious places, so if you’re unfamiliar with it, the uninhabited islands and mangrove clusters might seem challenging to explore on your own. But if you’re open to adventure, there are simple and exciting ways to see it.

EXPLORE BY K AYAK If you’re staying at one of the beach resorts on Marco Island, it’s an easy paddle to reach several nearby uninhabited beach islands, says JoNell Modys of the Naples, Marco Island, Everglades Convention and Visitors Bureau. If you don’t have your own vessel, Paddle Marco will deliver kayaks to your hotel, home or condo. They also offer guided tours, which are a good choice if you’d prefer to travel with a pro who has local knowledge.

Experienced paddlers (who always travel with maps and use tide tables to plan a trip) might travel as a group down to the one of the beach islands where camping is allowed. They’ll spend the night under a brilliant sky on a deserted stretch of sand.

EXPLORE BY BOAT The easiest way to see the islands is a guided boat tour like those offered by Marco Island Boat Tours, during which you can sit back and watch dolphins play in the boat’s wake and bald eagles soar overhead. If you prefer a more hands-on experience, you can rent a boat from Rose Marina or take your own, although this option is recommended for those with good navigational skills, as shallow waters and

shoals are common in this region. It’s worth it once you get close enough to admire the mangroves. “This is the largest mangrove estuary in North America,” says Modys. “Mangroves are now recognized as crucial to the health of this marine ecosystem and are a protected species.”

Mangroves earned the designation of “essential fish habitat” and have been protected from the impacts of development since 1996. From a boat you can also take advantage of the saltwater fishing and shell-covered beaches in the area.

“There’s phenomenal shelling along stretches of sand that are always free of crowds and sometimes even deserted,” says Modys. Pack a picnic lunch and relax on your own private beach.

EXPLORE BY FOOT The Ten Thousand Islands are arguably best approached from the water, but if you’d prefer to travel by land, you can access certain areas from The Marsh Trail. About 2.3 miles long, the trail is located just southeast of Naples and winds through the wetland environment and mangrove mazes of the Ten Thousand Islands National Wildlife Refuge. Birders like to climb the observation tower, an excellent perch from which to photograph the many species in the area.

“The Ten Thousand Islands are very special,” says Modys. “This is a magical place where you can get off the grid to connect with yourself and nature.”

or ida you’ve Experience a side of Fl qu iet side. never seen before. The Love, Paradi se

ParadiseCoast.com

F L O R I D A ’ S O N LY S T A T E W I D E F E A T U R E M A G A Z I N E

One Magazine. All of Florida.

Subscribe to our PRINT EDITION at FLAMINGOMAG.COM/SUBSCRIBE and receive the magazine direct to your home 4 times a year OR

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THE Travel ISSUE

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[

THE SLICE P R O DUCTS + EVENTS + PROMOTIONS

MAJOR CHEESE FACTOR

SEAS THE DAY Stay Salty Florida, with more than 215,000 organic Instagram followers, has captured the soul of Florida tourism with images of perfect lighthouses, iconic lifeguard stations and serene beaches since 2014. Chris Chiavarelli began the feed because he felt that Florida needed better representation across social media. While he tries not to favor his hometown of Clearwater on the page, he shares with Flamingo his top three local spots to sink his toes in the sand: Clearwater Beach, Honeymoon Island state park and barrier island, and Caladesi Island State Park. @staysaltyflorida

YELLOW FEVER Now even hotter than ever, ICEMULE just released some bright new colors in The Classic, which keeps goodies chilled for over 24 hours. These high-performance, handsfree coolers are designed and manufactured to accommodate every outdoor excursion, from fishing the flats to relaxing on the beach or hiking trails. $45–70 icemulecoolers.com F O R T H E L AT E S T H A P P E N I N G S , P H O T O S & V I D E O S , F O L L O W @ T H E F L A M I N G O M A G

[

CHRISTIAN TORRES, GRILL CHEESE GIRL, @ STAYSALT YFLORIDA , ICEMULE

Grilled cheese guru Mackenzie Smith released her first cookbook, Grilled Cheese Social, this spring as an extension of her popular food blog by the same name.

Smith’s recipes run the gamut from breakfast to lunch to dinner with dishes like donut grilled cheese, fried-chicken-andwaffle grilled cheese and mac-and-cheese grilled cheese. Growing up, Smith would raid her fridge for whatever ingredients she could find to whip up a grilled cheese.

In addition to writing books and blogs, the fromage master is a food stylist, photographer, social media maven, two-time Food Network champion and executive chef of the Black Dolphin Inn in New Symrna Beach. grilledcheesesocial.com

S U M M E R 2 0 1 9 /// FLAMINGOMAG.COM

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[

THE SLICE P R O DUCTS + EVENTS + PROMOTIONS

PROTECT AND SERVE

The Bimini-me sunshade, with a name inspired by a Bimini top on a boat, serves as the perfect solution for those who want to stay stylish while protecting their skin from the sun’s harmful rays. Its timeless design looks great while blocking uncomfortable glare and direct exposure from the sun for absolute outdoor enjoyment. Made with sailcloth, nautical roping and hardware typical to yachts, each Bimini-me sunshade is presented in a keepsake box and accompanied by a coordinating sailcloth backpack. biminime.com

COCKTAIL CRUSH

A sophisticated summer sipper for your next gathering. Bacardi.com CUATRO SMASH 1.5 oz Bacardi Anejo 1 oz St-Germain 1 oz ruby red grapefruit Top with tonic water over ice 1 grapefruit peel and 1 mint sprig Serve in a highball glass

PARK AVENUE PURSUITS For Central Florida beauty and lifestyle blogger Ashley Brooke, a typical weekend spent in one of her favorite neighborhoods, Winter Park, begins by grabbing an iced lavender latte at New General, a modern take on a general store. Coffee in hand, she peruses her favorite shops on Park Avenue like Writer’s Block bookstore, The Grove and Violet Clover. On Saturdays, find her walking the Winter Park Farmers Market looking for sweet-smelling flowers to keep her home colorful. See more @ashleybrooke

We are happy to report that the historic Desert Inn at Yeehaw Junction has not gone for good, as we opined in our Spring 2019 edition, but rather closed for future restoration by the Osceola County Historical Society. The site was recently nominated for the Florida Trust for Historic Preservation’s 2019 “11 to save” list of endangered historic sites in order to raise funds needed for the refurbishment.

Plans include a restaurant, museum and motel lodging. To learn more or to contribute visit osceolahistory.org

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F O R T H E L AT E S T H A P P E N I N G S , P H O T O S & V I D E O S , F O L L O W @ T H E F L A M I N G O M A G

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BECK Y BICHO, AMALIE ORR ANGE, RYAN CHAMBERS, BACARDI

YAY FOR YEEHAW!

Create footsteps worth following in.

We are all a product of those who came before us. Maybe you learned to love the ocean with a beloved grandfather, or to appreciate the silence of a sunset with mom. Perhaps you inherited your urge to explore from an adrenalinefueled aunt. Wherever you draw your inspiration, a desire to come back to The Keys is written in your DNA. fla-keys.com 1.800.fla-keys

Pelican Cove Resort and Marina

An oceanfront classic with 63 rooms and suites with pool, saltwater lagoon, cabana bar, marina, and watersports.

855-355-1073 pelicancovehotel.com

Sunset Key Cottages

An exclusive tropical island sanctuary of charming cottages, Latitudes beachfront dining and unforgettable sunsets await you, a boat ride away.

305-292-5300 sunsetkeycottages.com

Amy Slate’s Amoray Dive Resort

Spectacular sunsets. Waterfront accommodations steps from pool, beach, kayaks & scuba/snorkel catamarans. 3/night, 2/dive packages from $345 ppdo. Rooms from $119 305-451-3595 or 800-426-6729 amoray.com

Islander Resort

Postcard Inn Beach Resort and Marina

Located directly on the ocean. Cottage style accommodations with lanai, watersports, hammocks, beachfront restaurant, indoor lounge, splash pad and pools.

800-753-6002 or 305-664-2031 islanderfloridakeys.com

Newly refreshed Florida Keys beachfront resort with full service marina, watersports, pool, 3 restaurants and famous Tiki Bar. 305-664-2321 holidayisle.com

Amara Cay Resort

Margaritaville Key West Resort & Marina

Full-service resort located in Old Town Key West. Dining, marina, watersports, shopping and nightly Sunset Celebration on site.

305-294-4000 margaritavillekeywestresort.com

Key Largo Cottages Bay Front Sunset Cove

FREE with Cottage: paddleboarding, kayaking, sailing, biking, fishing, snorkeling., diving and sunset sails. Also available eco tours, sailing lessons and pirate ship rides.

305-451-3438 keylargocottages.com

Craft your own adventure at Amara Cay, a newly renovated, oceanfront, 110 room resort in the heart of Islamorada.

855-335-1091 amaracayresort.com

La Siesta Resort and Marina

Oceanside resort with a private beach, marina, boat ramp, pool, tiki, renovated suites, houses and beachside cottages with ocean views.

855-335-1078 lasiestaresort.com

S U M M E R 2 0 1 9 /// FLAMINGOMAG.COM

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— Flor idians, far e, f inds —

WADING IN — The Spread —

T h e G rill G irl’s cul i nar y que s t f or c har c oal and s m oke

— MADE IN FLA —

F old ing b ikes, light -as -ai r t e nt s and hands om e t ot e s

— FLAMINGLE —

T he la test wellne s s t r e nds be gan wi t h t he s e pi one e r s

— FLEDGLINGS —

C laire Van d iv e r bui l ds on a bl ue s y c hi l dhood

— one-on-one —

Ton y Ha le foun d hi s t r ue s e l f on a Tal l ahas s e e s t age

— the studio —

Dela n d a rtist fl i e s hi gh on a pai r of c hal k wi ngs

— Just Hatched —

F ind cra ft b rews i n Tal l y, c l e an e at s i n Sar as ot a a n d e ve r yt hi ng i n be t we e n

Siblings Star, Princess and Piper patiently await their joyride in this 1967 Toyota FJ40 Land Cruiser in Ponte Vedra Beach.

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FLAMINGOMAG.COM /// S U M M E R 2 0 1 9

MARY BETH KOETH

This page from left:

visitindianriver Costa d’Este Beach Resort

...

A DV E RTO R I A L

visitindianriver Archie Carr Wildlife Refuge

...

Nothing like taking to the skies and the water at Sebastian Inlet with Treasure Coast Seaplanes

visitindianriver Treasure Coast Seaplanes

...

I ndian River County is home to 22 miles of gorgeous beaches, all with great amenities and free parking.

visitindianriver Humiston Park Beach

...

Our friends at Orchid Island Brewery infuse local vitamin C into their craft beer creations.

visitindianriver Orchid Island Brewery

... iverside Theatre is one of the R largest professional producing theaters in the Sunshine State.

visitindianriver Riverside Theatre

...

nderwater adventures at the S.S. U Breconshire shipwreck reveal some of the area’s best snorkeling and diving.

visitindianriver S.S. Breconshire Shipwreck

... cKee Botanical Garden stuns with M tropical plants and more than 100 varieties of waterlilies.

visitindianriver McKee Botanical Garden

Live your b es t life takin g in th e area’s natu ral b ea uty, culina r y sp len d o r an d p u re p erso nality.

I ndian River County is a haven for wildlife and especially sea turtles

#VisitIndianRiver

urrent view at Gloria and Emilio C Estefan’s oceanfront art deco hotel, Costa d’Este Beach Resort and Spa

...

Come See What Everyone’s Talking About! @VisitIn dia n Rive r

V isitI n d i a n R ive r C o u n t y. co m

WADING IN :THE SPREAD This page: Robyn

Lindars has made a name for herself as a grill master

FLO RIDA-F R ESH BITES & BEVS

By St e v e D o l l a r • P h o t o g ra p h y b y L i b b y Vo l g y es

Opposite: Lindars’ South Florida smoked fish dip

SMOKE

in Her Eyes How one grill and a few glasses of chardonnay sparked a culinary career for this South FloridIAN

S

ome things in life seem predestined. Born in North Carolina, Robyn Lindars never saw herself making a life much farther below the Mason-Dixon line, let alone in South Florida. But when she was 18, she came across a palm reader while on a vacation to Key West and got a surprising glimpse of her future.

“You’re going south,” the psychic told Lindars.

“And now I’m pretty much as far south as you can go without hitting Cuba,” she says.

If the palm reader had looked a little closer, she might have seen smoke in Lindars’ eyes. Today, Lindars is widely known as the “Grill Girl,” a champion of outdoor barbecue and the creator of the popular website of the same name. But that too came as something of a surprise.

Although Lindars was born to a Southern family of serious foodies, she didn’t take much to grilling until 2008, when she bought her then-boyfriend a fancy Weber Genesis gas grill. “It was my ‘gateway grill,’” she explains. “It opened up a really big world of grilling.”

Lindars noticed that it was mostly men who got to enjoy the fun. “I asked myself, ‘Why are more women not grilling?’ I’m not even 5-foot-1. I am a total pipsqueak. If I can do it, anyone can do it.”

It was the late aughts, and blogging was taking off. Inspired by a couple of glasses of chardonnay one night, the blog Grill Girl was born. While the popular image of grilling conjures up fat slabs of pork ribs, steaks and hamburgers, Lindars, who has appeared as a guest on The Today Show and Chopped, emphasizes its health benefits.

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FLAMINGOMAG.COM /// S U M M E R 2 0 1 9

“I think of the grill as its own flavor component,” she says, offering a quick and easy example of its wonders. “Take a heart of romaine: cut it in half, drizzle it in olive oil and throw it on the grill, and it becomes like this different vegetable, almost because the flavor profile changes. You don’t need to add much to it because it’s caramelizing on the grill.”

How about grilled peaches? Lindars puts them on a cedar plank, like you’d do with salmon, “with mascarpone, pistachios, cinnamon and a drizzle of honey, that’s phenomenal.”

Lindars’ keto and paleo diet–friendlyrecipes abound on her website, along with a slew of so-called “Floribbean” dishes, which reflect the influence of island cultures on South Florida cuisine. And her just-published Healthy Electric Smoker Cookbook savors the rich culinary possibilities wrought by smoke. The Grill Girl wants you to know that smoke’s not only good for giving pork or steak an extra tang; it transforms everything from spices to cocktails to side dishes, like her blue cornbread with smoked poblano and peaches, cooked in a cast-iron pan.

“It really makes for a showstopper presentation,” Lindars says. “Smoke is intoxicating.”

South Florida Smoked Fish Dip S e rv e s 8 6–8 ounces fish fillets, such as tuna, trout, wahoo, kingfish, mullet, sailfish or mahi-mahi 4 ounces Neufchâtel cheese, room temperature, or cream cheese 2 jalapenos, deseeded and chopped Juice and zest of 1 lime 1 1/2 teaspoons Old Bay seasoning 1/4 cup mayonnaise Sea salt, to taste Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

FOR THE DRY BRINE: 3/4 cup kosher salt 3/4 cup firmly packed brown sugar, or 1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons Truvía Brown Sugar Blend 1 tablespoon garlic powder

FOR THE GLAZE: 3/4 cup pure maple syrup 2 tablespoons dark rum

PREPARATION: Place fillets skin-side down in a glass dish. To make the dry brine, combine all ingredients in a small bowl. Rub on the fillets, including the sides of the fish, to ensure full coverage. Let fish dry brine in the refrigerator, uncovered, for 45 minutes (it will give up a lot of liquid during this time). Then rinse to remove the brine.

Thoroughly dry the fish with paper towels. Let air dry, uncovered, in a wellventilated refrigerator for 8 hours, or until the fish has developed a shiny skin, to which the smoke adheres.

To make the glaze, mix together the maple syrup and rum in a small bowl.

Add woodchips to the woodchip box of an electric smoker. Place the fish in the smoker, then bring heat up gradually, starting as low as the smoker will go, and increasing the temperature in 25 degree increments until 225 degrees is reached.

The goal is to avoid the release of a protein called albumin, a white milky substance, from the fish. (Albumin release will ruin the texture of smoked fish and dry it out.) After the first hour, baste the fish with glaze.

Continue basting each hour until it reaches an internal temperature of 140 degrees, at least 3 hours depending on the size of fillets. Basting every hour helps prevent release of albumin. Let the fish cool.

Remove and discard the skin from the fish, then coarsely chop. To make the dip, add all ingredients in a food processor, except fish, and pulse a few times. Add the fish a little at a time, and pulse until desired consistency is reached. I make mine almost whipped for scooping up on crackers. My friends call this “crack dip.” You will not be able to pull yourself away from the bowl!

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WADING IN :THE SPREAD FLO RIDA-F R ESH BITES & BEVS

Why are more women not grilling?

I’m not even 5-foot-1. I am a total pipsqueak.

If I can do it, anyone can do it.

Skinny Smoked Jalapeno Margarita S e rv e s : 2 1 jalapeno 2 tablespoons smoked salt, such as Bourbon Barrel Foods Smoked Sea Salt 4 fluid ounces silver tequila 2 teaspoons agave syrup Juice of 2 large limes, plus an additional lime, cut into wedges, as a garnish 12 fluid ounces lime-flavored sparkling water

PREPARATION: Set the smoker to 250 degrees. Place the whole jalapeno on the grate and smoke for 1 hour. (You can smoke many jalapenos at once if you’d like to make multiple cocktails.)

Once cooled, deseed and finely chop the jalapeno. Spread the salt in a shallow bowl.

In a cocktail shaker with strainer, combine the jalapeno, tequila, agave syrup, lime juice and some ice. Shake profusely to help dissolve the agave syrup and disperse the smoky flavor.

Wet the rims of two highball glasses with a wet paper towel and then dip the glasses into salt. Fill with ice and strain the margarita evenly into each glass. Add limeflavored sparkling water until they are filled to the top. Garnish with a lime wedge.

NOTE: While I recommend smoking the jalapeno at 250 degrees with pecan or oak wood, it’s OK to use another kind of wood or a slightly different temperature if you’d like to do this while you smoke something else—like the fish dip!

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WADING IN :MADE IN FLA RI DE

Clockwise from top:

ELECTRIC feel

Meet Jupiter Bike: The folding-bicycle builders electrifying Tampa’s commuter community ROB DANIELS WASN’T LOOKING

for a new product venture when he took a routine business trip to China in 2016 and stumbled on a rough prototype for a folding electric bicycle.

“The design was so unique and eyecatching,” he recalls. The bike’s original design, a small frame consisting largely of two circles hinged in the center, weighed in at 24 pounds, making it much lighter than most electric-powered bikes.

The best part: It folded so neatly it could be packed up in a suitcase.

“The boating industry was so ripe for

22

it, and there was a big opportunity with pilots, especially those who are sensitive about adding weight on a small plane,” explains Daniels.

He returned home to Tampa and immediately began to innovate and improve on the original design until it was the most portable electric-powered bike on the market. He called his new company Jupiter Bike, named for the product’s space-age design. The Jupiter Bike, which today comes in two models, one that weighs 24 pounds and one that weighs 40 pounds, gives commuters, boat captains, pilots, RV

FLAMINGOMAG.COM /// S U M M E R 2 0 1 9

owners and adventurers a convenient way to get around. It can travel up to 40 miles when fully charged, so it lends itself to scooting around in the Florida sun, or enjoying an island lifestyle. The company even partnered with Florida Polytechnic, joining their capstone program, where students are challenged to expand upon the Jupiter Bike’s current model. This project helps them gain real-world experience with software and mechanical engineering.

Since its debut in 2017, fans of the Jupiter Bike have spread from the Sunshine State all the way across the United States thanks to a dealer network and retail partners like Ace Hardware. The company is also expanding to Australia and Europe.

Another key way Jupiter Bike finds its riders? Trade shows—the bike is always selling out. “It’s a fun product, because we do test drives,” says Daniels. “By the time [riders] come back, they’re always grinning ear to ear.” jupiterbike.com —MZR

JUPITER BIKES

Rob Daniels, pictured with his wife, perfected a light-weight electric bike that folds up small enough to take on the boat or almost anywhere.

WADING IN :MADE IN FLA

FINELY TUNED

DESIG N

Orlando-based Jason Gregory melds quality craftsmanship with creativity, one design idea at a time “JUST THE LITTLE DETAILS

has led to collaborations with local businesses on numerous interior projects, including Cuban cafe Black Bean Deli and The Guesthouse, a craft cocktail bar.

“We designed then built the fixtures. It’s always from a product design standpoint,” he explains of his collaborations. “I’m not doing interior design proper. We’re printing objects, and those objects create the space itself.” Despite his continuing success over the past decade, Makr’s ethos remains true to the brand’s original mission: “We care about creating, solving problems and making things as beautiful as we can.” makr.com —MZR

This page: Jason Gregory learned an appreciation for great design from his father. He started Makr to design beautiful products, like tote bags, stools and even a small wallmounted valet, to solve problems.

MAKR

and little complications is what I’m most into,” says Jason Gregory, the founder of Makr, a product design firm based in Winter Park. Whether you’re looking at a leather good, a piece of furniture or a canvas bag, every single design element—down to the seams—is made with intention. Take the fold weekender tote: It’s constructed with precision so the material does not bunch up when you crease or close it.

“Attention to detail sounds like something small or specific, but for me, it’s about the poetry of the entire object,” he continues.

Born in Miami and raised in Orlando, Gregory got his appreciation for wellconstructed objects from his father, who was a contractor and builder.

After graduating in 2003 from Ringling College of Art and Design, he took a design job at a Central Florida branding agency.

“I always leaned more toward product,” recalls Gregory. “Makr started because I wanted to do that as a living.” The company began as his side project—that is, until 2009, when GQ featured one of his wallets, skyrocketing business tenfold.

Beyond product design, Gregory’s keen eye for constructing beautiful things

S U M M E R 2 0 1 9 /// FLAMINGOMAG.COM

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WADING IN :MADE IN FLA G EAR

happy trails WHEN JOE VALESKO

Clockwise from above: A love of hiking

brought together the West Melbourne crew that became Zpacks, creators of outdoor gear.

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was preparing to hike the Appalachian Trail 14 years ago, he couldn’t find any gear that he liked. His solution? To make his own, despite having little to no background in product design.

After hours at the sewing machine, the upstate New York native succeeded in creating a tarp system and a backpack. He then hit the trail with his new gear in tow.

“Other hikers commented on how he should sell his designs,” explains Matt Favero, Zpacks’ brand manager. “Eventually, enough people wanted the gear he made that he had no choice but to start making it in his apartment after work.”

As the demand increased, Valesko became a computer programmer by day, gear maker by night. It wasn’t until he relocated to West Melbourne, Florida, that Valesko was inspired to turn his side

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hustle into a full-fledged career. Valesko met Favero soon after his move, and they connected over their love of hiking. “The next thing I know, I’m working in his garage with him and his wife sewing backpacks and tents,” remembers Favero of Zpacks’ early beginnings in 2010.

From there, the brand expanded, supplying adventurers everywhere with topnotch gear that’s tried and tested against nature. “All of our gear is either the lightest version available in the world or pretty close to it,” continues Favero. “What makes our company different is that we are adventurers ourselves. We have purposely surrounded ourselves with people who regularly go on amazing trips and our gear is designed to handle the demands of those adventures.

We do not make a single item that none of us would carry.” zpacks.com —MZR

ZPACKS

A Melbourne outdoor gear company

proves why it’s ahead of the pack

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WADING IN :FLAMINGLE A FLO CK OF FASCINATING F LOR IDIANS B y Jen n i f er Wa l sh

Wellness Warriors THESE FLORIdians HAVE TRANSFORMED THE SPA AND WELLNESS INDUSTRIES with innovative vision and products

SUSIE ELLIS

DR. ELIZABETH TRATTNER

NAOMI WHITTEL

MITESH AND VICKY POPAT

From her long career in the spa industry to her passion for wellness, Ellis is recognized as an authority on health trends.

She began her career in the spa industry in the 1970s in California, moved to Palm Beach in 1994 to manage the spa at Mar-a-Lago and now lives in Miami. Ellis is the chairman and CEO of the Global Wellness Institute, a nonprofit considered among the wellness industry’s leading global research and educational resources. Ellis championed access to medical evidence supporting the most common wellness techniques through the institute’s website.

Ellis is also president of Spafinder Wellness Inc. and, in the early 2000s, co-founded the Global Wellness Summit, an annual conference for wellness delegates.

With over 30 years of experience practicing integrative, Chinese and energy medicine, Trattner has spent her career learning new approaches to holistic health.

Trattner was one of the first doctors to open an integrative medical practice in Miami and was inspired to do so through her own experience battling a lifethreatening autoimmune disorder as a young adult. She is a firm believer in personalized medicine and works with patients who want to manage their weight, allergies, autoimmune diseases, digestive disorders and infertility. Trattner’s treatments address inner and outer beauty, like the gemstone acupuncture facial, a 90-minute session that pledges to improve muscle tone and reduce wrinkles without surgery.

The entrepreneur, wellness guru and mom lives in Boca Raton and has built a career on the belief that nature is the key to everyday wellness.

Whittel founded health brands Reserveage Nutrition, which produces organic supplements and vitamins; Simply Goodfats, a health food company; and the beauty line OMI Skin Nutrition.

Whittel travels the world seeking out ingredients and ancient rituals to incorporate into her work. She is a premier wellness partner for QVC, has appeared on Dr. Oz and was named one of the nation’s leading innovators in the natural products industry by Whole Foods Magazine. Whittel has three priorities for living well: proper eating, supplements and attentive skin care.

Florida natives Mitesh and Vicky Popat launched PlantOGram with the vision of creating an environmentally friendly, sustainable company that would leave a legacy and make people smile. What started in one backyard with two green thumbs has transformed into a company that, through its online store, ships more than 200 varieties of live and exotic fruit trees, including mango, spice and avocado trees, around the world. Because the trees are already grown and shipped in attractive planters, they can easily be kept inside or outside without the hassle of gardening or waiting for them to grow. Based in Windermere, PlantOGram has specialized selections for almost every occasion.

ILLUSTR ATION BY STEPHEN LOMAZZO

Health Nut

Holistic Healer

Beauty Boss

Tree Huggers

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WADING IN:FLEDGLINGS FLO RIDA MUSICIANS ON THE R ISE B y S t eve D o l l a r

Rhythm and Roots

A young singer-songwriter looks to her musician father and contemporary female artists for inspiration

A

t 25, singer-songwriter Claire Vandiver came to music naturally: Her father, Chip Vandiver, is a seasoned blues and rock guitarist whom Southern music fans may recall from the band Southfield. By the time Nashville-born Claire arrived at Daytona State College to study music production, she had already been performing for several years, and she soon left school to pursue music full time. She’s now working on a follow-up to her 2016 debut EP and has already released catchy singles like the mystic “Cassadaga.” Vandiver, a fan of strong female songwriters like Kacey Musgraves and Sharon Van Etten, is honing a blues-inflected sound with soulful vocal flourish and emotional introspection that plays just as well in coffeehouses as in roadhouses, with which the Crescent City resident is intimately familiar. Flamingo spoke with Vandiver about her background and what the future might hold.

WHAT WAS IT LIKE GROWING UP IN A MUSICAL FAMILY?

It had a big impact on me, but no one forced me to do it as a kid. I just wouldn’t shut up. I was blessed to have good parents that believed in me.

DO YOU HAVE CHILDHOOD MEMORIES OF YOUR DAD PERFORMING?

Oh yeah. I recorded my first little demo [in the studio with him] when I was 11 or 12. We did that in Nashville. I was in my pajamas, and I sang this song.

He actually wrote the song for me and it was called “Something That’s Real.” It was about following your dreams.

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This page: Singersongwriter Claire Vandiver recorded her first demo with her dad at age 12.

FAN FAVES

by Claire Vandiver

1 2 3

CRAZE’” “ Hot Blood “SUMMER ME UP” Summer Me Up “IS THIS GOODNIGHT” Is This Goodnight

4 5

CASSADAGA” “ Cassadaga

“JET PLANE” Hot Blood

occ.you.pa.tion coder designer strategician triathlete

YOUR SONGS HAVE A BLUES FEEL, BUT ALSO ASSERT SOMETHING EMOTIONAL ALL YOUR OWN. WHAT’S YOUR SONGWRITING PHILOSOPHY?

My dad’s a big blues guy, and I definitely grew up on blues. But I listen to everything. Over time, I never really wanted to sound like anybody. I stick to what feels right intuitively in that moment. That’s the thing with songwriting, you’re not sure where it comes from. I try to stick to my roots and what feels organic.

WHEN DID YOU START PLAYING IN CLUBS?

I was 16. I started gigging with my father, and we had kind of a blues band. We were doing biker bars and all kinds of stuff like that.

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It was pretty wild. Looking back on it, oh my God. I don’t think I was even old enough to be in there. I dealt with a lot of creepers and weirdos, but overall it was a really good experience just to practice and get up there. Plus, I made a little money and didn’t have to work at Winn-Dixie like every other high school student.

CIRILO HERNANDEZ

WHERE’S THE BEST PLACE TO FIND YOU ONSTAGE?

Right now, I’m gigging a lot in St. Augustine. That’s my hotspot. They welcome original music. It’s more artsy. It’s a cool historic area and has a good vibe.

Also, there’s a good music family there. It’s just on the rise. They’re really doing a lot of work to get things going, to kind of put a name on it.

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WADING IN :ONE-ON-ONE CO N VE RSATIONS, INTERVIEWS, STOR IES B y Ja m i e R i ch

The Spaz Floridian Behind Gary and Buster Actor Tony HalE found his happy place (and comedic voice) growing up in a Tallahassee community theater YOU GREW UP IN FLORIDA, RIGHT?

TH: I grew up in Tallahassee. I’m a massive fan of Florida, so I love talking about it. The thing that people do not understand is when you step into Florida, you know immediately it’s Florida. There is a smell about Florida that’s a very good smell that is unlike any others. It’s a saltwater smell. It’s also a smell of a lot of malls, and I love a good mall.

WHY DO YOU HAVE SUCH NOSTALGIA FOR THE MALL?

TH: Just because I’m clearly against nature or something. I don’t like fresh air, clearly. No. No nature, no fresh air. Just a lot of recycled air.

So I don’t know. I think I grew up—there was this place called the Governor’s Square Mall in Tallahassee. It was a place that we would always go to after school, and then we’d meet our friends there and all this kind of stuff. I have many happy places, but these places were always kind of the go-tos. One was the mall, one was this theater that I grew up in.

Some people like Disney, I like the mall. That was my happiest place on Earth.

DID YOU HAVE A FAVORITE MEMORY AT THE MALL IN TALLAHASSEE?

TH: There was always some kind of holiday show. This is sounding so pathetic, so you can feel free to judge me at any time.

Y

Above: Hale and his daughter on the beach in South Florida

ou know him best as Gary and Buster, his characters in Veep and Arrested Development. But two-time Emmy Award–winning actor Tony Hale, 48, began his acting career on a small stage in his hometown of Tallahassee, where he moved with his family when he was in seventh grade. Despite both of his longrunning, wildly successful shows coming to an end this year, Hale says he’s not mapping out the future, but rather, focusing on living a more present life. Flamingo Editor-in-Chief Jamie Rich caught up with Hale on a recent phone conversation from Los Angeles, where he now lives, to talk Veep, malls and what he loves so much about the Sunshine State. These are some highlights from their conversation.

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FLAMINGOMAG.COM /// S U M M E R 2 0 1 9

YOU MOVED THERE WHEN YOU WERE IN SEVENTH GRADE?

TH: My dad was in the Army. And so he retired in Florida when I was in the seventh grade, an absolutely ideal time to move to a new place. Seventh grade is already awkward, so I’m sure it was a bit challenging.

But that’s why this theater, this children’s theater that I was involved in was such a gift. I was not into sports. Every parent wants their kid to find that thing that they’re really interested in. And so they found this theater. And it was just my thing. And it was a tremendous gift.

F RO M

CO T TAG E S

to Castles

TELL ME ABOUT THE THEATER.

TH: The theater was called Young Actors Theatre. And it’s run by this lady named Tina Williams. I went to Leon High School, and I enjoyed my experience at Leon, but most of my social group was at this theater.

THIS IS WHERE YOU BLOSSOMED?

TH: Yes. I mean, I was kind of a spaz. And it was a place that didn’t judge that. I felt very embraced. I didn’t feel odd. I really enjoyed theater. I really enjoyed making people laugh, so it was a real gift to me. I tell people a lot, even if somebody doesn’t make a career out of the arts like I have, a lot of kids need that environment to grow.

They need an artistic environment to really find who they are, whether they go in the arts or not. And so I was one of those kids.

DO YOU REMEMBER SOME OF YOUR FIRST PERFORMANCES AT THE THEATER?

TH: Yeah. Oh, yeah. That’s pretty much all I remember, actually. I was the mayor of Oz in the Wizard of Oz. I did not get the scarecrow. Billy Sutton got the scarecrow.

Below: Hale in his role as Gary, a presidential “bag man”

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WADING IN :ONE-ON-ONE

Above: Hale says Julia Louis-Dreyfus created a family vibe on the set of Veep. Opposite: The Young Actors Theatre in Tallahassee helped Hale find his path.

—T O NY H A L E

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I was not happy about that. And then, there was Oliver. I wanted to be the Artful Dodger, but Tina Williams, the director, said I was too obnoxious. So I got one of the orphans.

WHAT DO YOU MEAN BY TOO OBNOXIOUS?

TH: I was just kind of an obnoxious kid.

Tina Williams, who handed out the work— we’re very good friends to this day—she actually came with my wife and I to the SAG Awards last year. We just joke about it all the time because I was a spastic kid.

And I didn’t get this one part because I was too much of a spaz. I need to kind of chill out a little bit. But then, as time went on, I was able to kind of take it a little more seriously and not be so obnoxious. I was Allie Hackam in Oklahoma! I was a part of this thing called Studio Singers, which

was like a show choir. And we wore the cheesiest, most obnoxious outfits.

We wore these blue sparkly vests that never need to see the light of day again.

DO YOUR PARENTS STILL LIVE IN FLORIDA?

TH: They just recently, this past year, moved to Vero Beach. We vacationed as a family kind of near there. I love it. It gives me a good reason to go back to Florida. There’s a lot of power in being around a place that you have history with. It’s very, very comforting to me.

So I try to always go to the high school reunions. We’d obviously go to the mall. And we’d drive by our old house.

I don’t know. There’s just something incredibly grounding about that. And also being around friends you have a lot of history with.

COLLEEN HAYES/HBO

When Veep ended in December, I mean we cried hard, because we’d been together for eight years. And we got really close the first four years because we were shooting in Baltimore and all of us were away from our families.

YOU DO A LOT OF NONPROFIT WORK. HOW DID YOU GET INVOLVED WITH THE INTERNATIONAL JUSTICE MISSION?

TH: A friend of mine, years ago, through my church, invited me to a kind of a conference that International Justice Mission was throwing. And I went, and didn’t really know much about the organization. And then I heard the stories about not just the horrific act of human trafficking in adults but also the stories of children who were half my daughter’s age being trafficked for sex—I mean, just absolutely horrendous. One thing the International Justice Mission does is not only do they save them but they help restore them. Because there’s so much PTSD. And so, to be able to talk about what they do, that’s the least that I can do.

Navigate Here AMELIA ISLAND’S HISTORIC HARBOR FRONT

YOU HAVE A DEEP FAITH AND THEN YOUR CHARACTERS ARE SO WACKY AND IRREVERENT. HOW DOES THAT SQUARE UP?

TH: Life is really messy, honestly. And the art that I appreciate is the work that sometimes puts a mirror up to society. But the comedy and the work that I resonate with the most is stuff that is satirizing or simply just putting an honest mirror up to what’s going on in the world. And when you do that kind of work, most of the time it’s not going to be very clean because it’s not going to be perfect and it’s not going to have a pretty bow at the end.

WHERE DO YOU DRAW YOUR INSPIRATION FROM? IS THAT OBNOXIOUS KID STILL IN THERE?

YOUNG AC TORS THEATRE OF TALL AHASSEE

TH: The truth is there’s a lot of Buster and there’s a lot of Gary in me. I struggle with anxiety in my life. What’s fun about these characters is you’re able to play characteristics of these people whose issues are 1,000 times greater than your own.

But there’s still hints of myself in them, and that’s where you always want to find those honest places. Because I think if you don’t resonate with something in a character within yourself then it’s very difficult to bring honesty to it. And also just finding things in other people. Like someone that you can’t stand, if you can find something in that person that’s also within yourself, it will decrease the judgment within you. It’s hard. By the way, I suck at it. It’s easier to do with characters.

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WADING IN :ONE-ON-ONE CO N VE RSATIONS, INTERVIEWS, STOR IES

The truth is there’s a lot of Buster and there’s a lot of Gary in me.

I struggle with anxiety in my life.

What’s fun about these characters is you’re able to play characteristics of these people whose issues are 1,000 times greater than your own.

—TO NY HALE Above: Hale in his role as Buster on Arrested Development. Below: Hale at a Young Actors Theatre

reunion in Tallahassee; Hale as a kid with his mom, dad, two siblings and dog.

TH: Yeah. I appreciate you saying that.

I don’t know. I’m very thankful to have the success I’ve had. But it is more challenging for me to be present than it is to look ahead. My default is not at all to be present. My default is to constantly be somewhere else. I’ve never written down a five-year, 10-year plan. Of course, I’d love to try other roles and stories. And I’d love to continue making my living as an actor. But whatever does come next, I want to be more and more in a space where I can really be present with it, because it just makes it that much richer.

WITH TWO CAREER-DEFINING ROLES ENDING IN THE PAST YEAR, HOW ARE YOU FEELING?

TH: When Veep ended in December, I mean we cried hard, because we’d been together for eight years. And we got really close the first four years because we were shooting in Baltimore and all of us were away from our families. And so we kind of became each other’s family.

There was also a real respect for each other’s talent, and we each brought such different things to the table. And with comedy, you just have to really trust each other.

HOW SO?

TH: Julia [Louis-Dreyfus] and I, most of our stuff, it kind of became its own choreography or comic dance that we would do with each other. She would just trust that if she dropped that purse, I would be right there to get it.

DID YOU KNOW JULIA BEFORE VEEP?

TH: She did a guest spot on Arrested Development. But we got really close on Veep. I really treasure our friendship.

Julia, who was obviously the star of Veep,

34

she created a real family environment, because whoever is number one on the call sheet really sets the tone for the whole experience. And she created a real team environment, where you always felt free to lob out ideas. She kind of had a no-asshole rule. And Jason Bateman was the same way on Arrested Development.

He’s incredibly gracious, and he’s so kind. I mean, I’ve been thankful to be a part of shows where both leads of both shows were incredibly kind, grounded people.

FLAMINGOMAG.COM /// S U M M E R 2 0 1 9

SAEED ADYANI/NETFLIX, YOUNG AC TORS THEATRE OF TALL AHASSEE

I KNOW THAT YOU AREN’T BIG ON PONTIFICATING ON WHAT’S NEXT. BUT WHAT KIND OF ROLES DO YOU WANT TO HAVE?

It’s harder to do in life, but hopefully, I’m getting a little better at it.

WADING IN :THE STUDIO FLORIDA ARTIST PROFILES B y C h ri st i n a C u sh

WINGING IT

Deland native and artist Erica Group sparked a national trend with her large-scale wing-themed sculptures and murals that now form a West Volusia art trail

E

rica Group, a sunshiny 30-yearold, giggles that she can’t fit into her favorite painting jeans anymore. The prolific artist is on the brink of having her first baby, and even her comfy old Levi’s, spattered like a Jackson Pollock with years of paint, need to adjust to the momentous event.

Her baby’s arrival coincides with the completion of a series of promotional videos created as part of her work as artist-inresidence for the West Volusia County

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region, where she lives with her husband in Deland.

Group studied architecture at the University of South Florida and interior design at Cazenovia College in central New York. After graduating in 2012, she followed her heart home and started a graphic design business.

“I created logos, did hand-lettering projects, drew architectural portraits and did custom maps for wedding couples to give to out-of-town guests,” she recalls.

“I kept getting referrals for new projects thanks to good old word of mouth.”

In September 2014, a spontaneous decision occurred during a dress-shop photo shoot that literally put Group’s art on the map.

“I very casually drew some white chalk wings on the side of the dress shop I was promoting, thinking it was a cool idea,” she says. She assumed they’d wash away in the afternoon, thanks to trusty Florida rain. But they didn’t. Instead, the wings

COURTESY ERICA GROUP

Clockwise from top left: The beginning stages of Group’s mural of an antique biplane at Skydive Deland; the artist’s popularity soared when people started posting images on social media with her wings; Group’s pencil sketch of her original design

stayed, becoming a beautiful backdrop for thousands of Instagram photos tagged #delandwings.

“It went crazy,” says Group. “People came into the dress shop asking, ‘Where are the wings?’”

In December 2014, Group made the wings immortal and covered the fading chalk with enduring paint. Other muralists around the United States, and the world, have created similar wing-themed works, but Group’s large painting in a small town appears to have been one of the first that sparked the global trend. This career turning point resulted in more wedding illustrations and shop signs and launched Group’s new focus as a muralist.

“I tackled a restaurant wall and painted a bike built for two and a banner describing the Friday night farmers market in downtown Deland,” Group says. It’s hard to believe that she doubted herself, as she is so passionate about the charms of quaint Deland. “It’s the cutest.” Next came a gig to paint an enormous wall outside Persimmon Hollow, the local brewery.

This page from top: Group’s Peacock feather

mural is one of five wing-themed murals on the West Volusia art trail; Group painting one of her works at her studio.

I very casually drew some white chalk wings on the side of the dress shop I was promoting, thinking it was a cool idea.

West Volusia’s tourism board noticed the personality-packed work Group generated, and they wanted in. In August 2017, Group became West Volusia’s official artist-in-residence. “It sounds so fancy,” she beams. “They asked me to create five sets of wings and install them in different locations, but never to duplicate the original dress shop wings.”

Group’s public works create a 54-mile art trail across the county with six Instagram-worthy stops, including the original wings painted in Deland; a vintage biplane at Skydive Deland; peacock tail feathers marking a pioneer

settlement in Barberville; fairy wings for the elaborate fairy trail in Cassadaga; scrub jay wings at the Deltona preserve; and swallowtailed kite wings at the Lake Woodruff National Wildlife refuge.

Some of her public projects, such as the scrub jay, have wingspans upwards of 8 feet, so Group enlisted the help of her dad, a machine fabricator, and husband Jeff Kiel, a wood turner. Despite the baby’s anticipated arrival in late June, Group has hardly slowed down to think about how motherhood might impact her creativity or productivity.

“We have three sets of grandparents nearby, so I will take advantage of their eagerness to be involved,” she says. “I want to be a working mom and I don’t want to stop what I’m doing.”

Visit erica.group for more information.

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a little salty air makes a great meal even better.

Shrimp Festival October 10-13 Oyster Cook-Off November 1-2

You’ll find our restaurants offering an abundance of fresh Gulf-to-table seafood to satisfy any palate no matter how you like it served.

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WADING IN :JUST HATCHED DEBUTS TO PER USE (NORTH) books and an eclectic collection of cocktail shakers wrap around the entirety of this brick-andmortar shop. theglassbottlesociety.com

POGO’S KITCHEN AMELIA ISLAND

The origin of the restaurant’s name came from the comic strip Walt Kelly started in 1948, “Pogo,” about a possum and other fictional swamp creatures such as alligators, owls and porcupines living in the Okefenokee. Although the eatery gives a nod to its history, Pogo’s Kitchen is far from cartoonish, with its upscale design and five-star dishes. located off A1A on Amelia Island, Pogo’s Kitchen serves up handmade Southern cuisine, like braised sweet potatoes and pan-seared duck, by executive chef Alan Heckman. pogoskitchen.com

NORTH BEACH TORTILLA CO.

PROPER BREW PUB TALLAHASSEE

When Proof Brewing Co. expanded its facility to take up an entire city block earlier this year, Proper brewpub was born. Only a six-minute walk from Cascades Park, the brewery is known for its award-winning ales like Creatures in the Dark, a stout; Eightfive-O, an American pale ale; and La La Land, an IPA. The contemporary gastropub houses a beer garden, tasting room and event space. Brad Buckenheimer, owner of Canopy Road Cafe and Merv’s, created Proper out of his love for Proof Brewing and belief that great food and exceptional beer belong together. The brunch menu features items like brioche French toast and a sunrise burger. Upscale bar bites like the rib-eye cheesesteak and bratwurst dumplings called bratstickers are also available.

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SOUTH WALTON

FOSTER PHOTOGR APHY, CARLI MCGOWAN

Above and right: Proof Brewing began with a belief that great food and exceptional beer belong together; barware from the Glass Bottle Society

GLASS BOTTLE SOCIETY JACKSONVILLE

Located in Jacksonville’s Five Points area among historically preserved buildings, the Glass Bottle Society now provides premium products for cocktail enthusiasts. Owner Jina Paolillo has more than 20 years of

experience in the service industry. While tending bar, she realized that there wasn’t a one-stop shop for quality bar products, so she set out to change that. Shelves overflowing with bitters, simple syrups, cocktail infusions, ceramic drink ware, recipe

FOR THE LATEST HAPPENINGS, PHOTOS & VIDEOS, FOLLOW @THEFLAMINGOMAG

North Beach Tortilla Co. celebrates its founder’s love of Mexican food from a scenic spot at the foot of the Clyde B. Wells bridge, the landmark welcoming visitors and natives to South Walton. Chef Jim Shirley, a culinary legend known for his iconic restaurants throughout Pensacola and Seaside, grew up on the Gulf Coast eating surf tacos and developing a taste for Latin-inspired food.

When it opens this summer, North Beach Tortilla Co. will be built with pylons off an old drawbridge and feature a beach bar overlooking the Choctawhatchee Bay. The menu will feature Gulf-to-table dishes and more than 100 craft and artisan tequilas. chefjimshirley.com

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WADING IN :JUST HATCHED DEBUTS TO PER USE (C E N T RA L ) PROPER & WILD WINTER PARK

Above: James Beard semifinalist Rachel Bennett of The Library

Husband and wife duo Chelsie and Jamie Savage set out in 2018 to make “real damn good food.” The outcome was Proper & Wild, their second-of-three restaurants in three years in the Orlando area. The kitchen menu features plant-based meals like avocado caprese salad and makhani curry made with organic seasonal produce sourced from Florida growers such as Sugar Top Farms, Dakin Dairy Farms and Lake Meadow Naturals. Coffee from Golden Hills Coffee Roasters is poured only days after it’s been locally

roasted. With open shelves exposing sleek glassware and plants draping the walls, the ambience conveys a sense of sophistication, laced with a hint of nature. properandwildwp.com

THE LIBRARY ST. PETERSBURG

Floor-to-ceiling bookshelves, communal-style seating and black-and-white checkered floors are just a few of the details that create the cozy atmosphere of this alreadybuzzed-about restaurant and bar with executive chef, and James Beard semifinalist,

Rachel Bennett at the helm.

Owners and siblings Allison Casper Adams and Blake Casper made a name for themselves with their retail space Oxford Exchange.

They took inspiration for The Library from the legacy of philanthropist George Peabody, who believed in the power of education. Located within the John Hopkins All Children’s Hospital medical complex, The Library provides a safe haven for doctors, nurses and guests to enjoy banana pancakes or a latte, with conversation and community at its core. thelibrarystpete.com

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WADING IN :JUST HATCHED DEBUTS TO PER USE (C E N T RA L ) OAK & OLA

TRE BAMBINE

Euro-American eatery Oak & Ola was started by five friends who merged their expertise with a passion for excellent food. The restaurant is located inside the historic Armature Works warehouse in the heart of the Tampa Heights waterfront community. Award-winning executive chef Anne Kearney turns out entrees with her Americanized take on classically styled French Provençal cuisine, while always staying focused on her motto, “food of love.” Kearney describes Oak & Ola’s culinary ethos as “classics revisited,” featuring dishes such as Spanish-style fire-roasted octopus and blue crab spaghetti. oakandola.com

Situated on the banks of Lake Eola in the heart of downtown Orlando, Tre Bambine carves out its niche as a modern Italian bacaro, or dive bar. It serves cicchetti, which are small snacks and side dishes inspired by authentic Italian street food typically eaten while standing up, using fingers and toothpicks. Tre Bambine is Italian for “three babies,” after owner Jacquelyn Angiulli’s daughters. Find shareable items on the menu like caprese bites and lasagna cupcakes, and entrees such as a grilled vegetable and goat cheese panini. Top off a leisurely meal by sharing a cappuccino or a chilled shot of limoncello with friends. trebambine.com

ORLANDO

Above: Proper & Wild offers organic, plant-based dishes with ingredients sourced from local farms.

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TAMPA

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WADING IN :JUST HATCHED DEBUTS TO PER USE (SOUTH) THE CITADEL MIAMI

THE EMERY

HALLANDALE BEACH

The Emery is a 4,000-squarefoot members-only co-working space and social club with

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Above: South Florida women network, collaborate and create at The Emery. Below: Bruschetta from The Citadel

a mission to set up South Florida women for personal and professional success. Located between Fort Lauderdale and Miami, The Emery, with its growing membership, has become a central hub for South Florida females to build their network by meeting and collaborating with potential clients and other like-minded entrepreneurs. The Emery also offers events and educational workshops on challenges women collectively face, such as how to stay successful without sacrificing personal relationships and maintaining emotional wellness. Aileen Lavin, founder and CEO, believes that, alone, women can be successful, but together, women can change the world. the-emery.com

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LEMON TREE KITCHEN

ISLA BELLA BEACH RESORT

Lemon Tree Kitchen marks the fifth Florida installment for the Tableside Restaurant Group.

Committed to clean eating at a reasonable price, Lemon Tree Kitchen serves fresh and local fare that even vegan and gluten-free foodies can enjoy, says Joe Seidensticker, chief executive officer of Tableside Restaurant Group. The large storefront windows and walls covered with plant life create an organic, airy and relaxed vibe. Plates such as wood-oven pizzas, veggie noodle ramen and tofu deviled eggs made with wholesome ingredients, offer a healthy version of American favorites. tableseide.com

Surrounded by 360-degree views of the ocean and the Seven-Mile Bridge, this luxury resort is in a prime location for sailing, fishing, snorkeling and diving. Isla Bella is the first resort in The Keys to go up after Hurricane Irma devastated the area in 2017 and is nestled just a few miles from Bahia Honda State Park halfway between Key West and Key Largo. Each room features a large private outdoor living area, steps away from the crystal blue water. With 24 acres of beachfront, this oasis features a spa, five swimming pools and multiple places to dine, as well as activities like sunrise bike rides and pier fishing. islabellabeachresort.com

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MARATHON

COURTNE Y STUDIOS, ANDRE A LORENA

Located in the historic neighborhood of Little River, The Citadel is South Florida’s largest food hall, encompassing three stories and 62,000 square feet of warehouse space. The building was built in 1951 as a bank and later redesigned to preserve its original MiMo architectural style.

The long communal tables are surrounded by dozens of local and artisanal food vendors such as Ash! Pizza Parlor, Society BBQ and Manjay. Walk-up food stalls are scattered throughout, serving an array of food such as Mediterranean octopus, Caribbean gyro and Korean fried chicken. In addition to the food, The Citadel also houses an open-air market, The Finery, showcasing both up-and-coming and established brands like French 75 Vintage and Baiser Beauty and a glitzy rooftop bar and lounge. thecitadelmiami.com

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— Unf ilter ed Fodder —

Capital Dame

By Di ane R o b ert s • I l l u st ra t i o n b y S t ep h en L o m a zzo

PARADISE LOST

On Florida’s Forgotten Coast, only the jade-green waters of the Gulf remain as they were before Hurricane Michael ravaged the area and changed it perhaps forever.

When I was a kid, we’d spend a couple of weeks every summer at Mexico Beach, an old beach shack community 20 miles from Panama City on the Gulf’s best stretch of powdered sugar sand. I’d wanted to drive over there in the weeks after Hurricane Michael slapped us around, but we had our own problems in Tallahassee, even though we were 100 miles to the east of the eye. My

house was fine, but my mother lost five water oaks, three 70-year-old pines, five cedars and six pecan trees during the storm. A red maple blocked the drive, and a sweetgum destroyed the barn. One ancient pecan tree rested perilously on the south end of her house.

I finally got over to Mexico Beach in January, figuring I’d see a lot of rebuilding, and surely (despite all those awful images on television)

more left intact than news reports implied.

But it was gone—the whole town. I could see foundations, bits of concrete block and forlorn toilets lying on their sides. What had been a cheerful and unpretentious little burg of block houses with wide porches looked like a Syrian village after a particularly vicious battle. There were a few people still picking through the piles, hoping to find an old

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45

Capital Dame UNF ILTER ED FODDER

photograph or two, maybe grandma’s ring or something, anything, from the increasingly mythic time before Michael. There was one big house mostly undamaged—the much reported-on, heavily fortified (and very expensive) “Sand Palace.” But most everything else was devastated, and a signal part of my childhood gone forever. The only familiar element was the jade-green water of the Gulf.

I headed north on State Road 71, up toward Wewahitchka and the Dead Lakes, through a landscape that should have been creeks, bay swamps and tupelos, big woods smelling of early spring blooms. There should have been miles of fragrant pines, their needles bright frog-green. Instead, the place looked like my grandfather’s photographs of the area around Verdun in 1918, the “Zone Rouge” of World War I: no birds, soil with the vegetation scraped off and the skeletons of trees standing leafless.

There wasn’t so much as a week-old sapling pushing its head out of the dirt.

Those pines weren’t mere decoration, nature being lovely for our benefit. They were home to deer, bears, snakes, hawks. They were people’s retirement savings, the children’s college fund, the nest egg. Most of those trees weren’t

almost eight months, yet, as late as the end of April, people were still living in FEMA trailers (if they were lucky) or in their cars or in tents in somebody’s back yard. In Gulf, Liberty, Calhoun and Jackson counties, barns lie open to the sky, and thousands upon thousands of acres of pines, their trunks broken off in the middle, stand like some huge ruined temple.

People call the northern Gulf “the Forgotten Coast.” It was the last part of Florida where you could find a stretch of sand uncrowded by several thousand melanoma candidates jostling for towel and cooler space, one of the last areas of the state to have working waterfronts where shrimpers and oyster gatherers made a living harvesting the sea.

We don’t joke about it anymore: the Forgotten Coast really has been forgotten.

At least, that’s how the people who live there feel. The roads have mostly been cleared of storm rubbish, but piles of rebar, pipes, drywall, cracked sinks and sodden sofas sit stacked up in front yards from Lynne Haven to Grand Ridge: maybe in a few hundred years they’ll grass over and become archaeological curiosities—early 21st-century midden mounds. Far more dangerous is the wood lying around, drying into a major fire hazard.

In March, more than 8,000 acres of Gulf County burned. There’s another 350,000 acres of splintered forest, hunks of wood drying out just in time for Florida’s always-vigorous wildfire season.

Yes, the federal government has coughed up $1 billion in aid. It sounds like a lot. But the counties assaulted by Michael lost more than that in crop value alone. Add in property destruction and the number exceeds $6 billion. As I’m writing this, Congress has yet

It swallowed whole trees. It may swallow some of the old graves in the town cemetery. insured. Most of those souls who counted on those trees will never get their money back.

Michael was bigger than Opal in 1995, more powerful than Kate in 1985, more destructive than Camille in 1969—a Category 5, with winds up to 160 miles per hour, the strongest recorded storm ever to hit North Florida. The hurricane kicked its way ashore near Mexico Beach, tearing off roofs and bending buildings like they were cardboard boxes, while seething Gulf water pushed out windows and smashed in doors. Michael cut channels in Cape San Blas, sucked up a sandy beach on St. George Island and spat it out 200 yards away on top of the main road, leveled dunes and ripped off old brick storefronts from Panama City to Marianna. When Michael roared inland, its winds slashed the forests and wrecked little towns, stomping up into Georgia, tearing a record crop of pecans from the trees.

FEMA and Fires

We will never be the same— but we want to be.

We crave our old sameness.

Now it’s been

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to pass a comprehensive disaster relief bill. The parties are squabbling over which area gets what: more cash for flooding in the Midwest?

More paper towels for Puerto Rico? The 16 counties suffering the worst of the hurricane are sparsely populated compared with the suburbanized, paved-over rest of Florida.

This ain’t the I-4 Corridor or Miami-Dade.

This is the Florida equivalent of la France profonde, Deep Florida, far from the cities, far from the glitz, far from the money: old, rural, traditionalist, with its cotton fields and hog pens, its roadside shacks selling boiled peanuts, its billboards hollering “Jesus Is Lord!”

Or, to put it another way, one part of Florida politicians can easily ignore. There’s not much money to chase here. Few movers and shakers.

The white people largely vote Republican; the black people largely vote Democrat, but they’re outnumbered, so the Panhandle is always described as “conservative.” If only the powerful cared about conserving us.

Sacred ground

No doubt the Federal Emergency Management Agency is full of hard-working, well-meaning people, but Michael’s victims perceive a marked lack of exertion on their behalf. A young woman from Bay County told a reporter from the Gainesville Sun, “I have read about hurricanes Katrina, Andrew and Harvey referred to in the news repeatedly since they happened. But it seemed like in a matter of days we were forgotten.”

In March, I took another drive, this time to Liberty County, where I saw a hole in Eden.

In the weeks after Michael, with its flaying wet gusts, the ground in Bristol tore itself open, forming a chasm 250 feet long, 60 feet wide, 40 feet deep. It swallowed the street. It swallowed whole trees. It may swallow some of the old graves in the town cemetery.

I’m not being merely metaphorical about Eden: In the 1940s, an eccentric white man, Baptist preacher and NAACP lawyer named

E.E. Callaway theorized that Adam and Eve’s ur-Garden was not located somewhere in the Holy Land, but right here in Liberty County, Florida. A four-headed river flowed out of Eden; just outside Bristol, the Apalachicola River splits into four, exactly as the Bible describes the Tigris, the Pishon, the Gihon and the Euphrates emerging from humankind’s first home. Noah built the ark out of gopherwood, an exceedingly rare tree. And lo, the Torreya taxifolia— gopherwood—grows right there in Liberty County’s steephead ravines. Ergo, Bristol is the original Paradise.

It’s sad to see paradise disfigured with a gash in its pale red earth, like the gates of hell; it’s sad to discover that the glorious ravines, once verdant with gopherwood trees, look as though they’ve been visited by the plague. I mourn the way Highway 90 is bare of some of the centuries-old oaks that used to line it; I barely recognize downtown Marianna. I always assumed the landscape I love was as immutable as Florida’s sapphire springs or ancient cypresses, as eternal as the Parthenon or Notre Dame de Paris.

The springs are cloudy with polluted run-off from too much building; and the world watched Notre Dame’s spire burn and crumble and finally fall to ashes on the ground. Between greed, the ravages of a warming planet and the neglect of a clueless government, anything, no matter how beautiful or historic, can be—will be— damaged or lost.

Diane Roberts is an eighth-generation Floridian, educated at Florida State University and at Oxford University.

Her work has appeared in The New York Times, The Guardian and the Tampa Bay Times. She has also authored four books, including Dream State, a historical memoir of Florida, and Tribal: College Football and the Secret Heart of America.

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Dog’s A

DAy

By ERIC BARTON Photography by MARY BETH KOETH

Once shunned at most resorts, pups finally get Five-star treatment at Florida’s finest hotels

This page from top:

The Alfond Inn offers a pet photo session; the W Fort Lauderdale offers a pet paradise

She tired herself out even before we could get the camera app open. But this was, without question, the most energy we’d seen from her in a year’s time. It was also a moment that justified taking her on a three-day road trip to the Keys, a trip planned solely so she could have a final vacation designed just for her.

Back in 2007, when my wife, Jill, and I first got our pup from a Chesapeake Bay retriever rescue group, polite people didn’t take their dogs on vacation. Or at least that’s the impression we got from employees and fellow guests the first time she plodded through the lobby of a decent hotel, the Sheraton on the Country Club Plaza in Kansas City.

People like to describe thin dogs as skin and bones, but she barely had that, mostly just four oversized paws and topsail ears propped on 35 pounds of skittishness.

Jill and I named her Lucky. Peanut butter and boiled eggs filled her out, and then we took her along on regular road trips. As a rescue from an Arkansas pig-farm-turnedpuppy-mill, she didn’t know how to climb stairs, walk on a leash or ride in a car. Even the shortest trips would equal anxiety and a roll of paper towels. The vet suggested giving her a new association with traveling, and so we took her and a tennis ball to the park daily until the back seat became her favorite spot. Months later, we set out on an epic trip through the Southwest, and she whined with excitement

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ALFOND INN, W FORT L AUDERDALE

Previous spread: The author, his dog, Lucky, and wife, Jill, at the W Fort Lauderdale

e were lounging under an ancient sea grape tree, with tiny spotlights of morning sun barely fitting between its leaves, as big as dinner plates. The gentle Florida Bay waves lapped, the water as clear as a vodka shot. The dog, now 13, almost equivalent to a centenarian, with her blonde fur frosted white, snored between us on a beach towel, a placidity we wanted to go on forever.

Suddenly the pup popped her head up, her gray-covered snout picking something up. She can’t hear a delivery man’s knock, and maybe her eyesight is shot too, but she’s still got a terrific sniffer. She creaked her bones to a standing position and scampered, as much as an old girl can, off between the knotty knees of mangrove roots.

She returned holding a prize, a gnarly coconut the size of a Nerf football. Her tail knocked excitedly into our chairs as she dragged her new toy through the sand.

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past the rainbow monoliths of Colorado.

If she could talk, she’d brag now about the 27 states she’s visited. Arizona via Amarillo. Up to New Hampshire to swim in never-warm lakes as deep as the mountains they mirror. Twice yearly to North Carolina, where she’d whimper incessantly as we closed in on Asheville.

D o g - F r i e n dly F lor i da

We found that, living in Florida, we’re flush with reasons to take a road trip with our Lucky.

On Lovers Key near Fort Myers, a wooded path leads out to a Gulf-side beach that looks untouched by time, where there’s a dog park full of brackish splash pools and a slow walk out to deep water. With sand as soft as powdered sugar and waves that almost always remain chill, St. Pete’s Fort De Soto was worthy of a day’s drive

with a wet pup in the back seat. Then there’s Key West; the dog beach at the end of Vernon Avenue might just be a tiny spit of land, but afterward you’re still in a town where bar and restaurant patios seem more complete with a dog underneath you.

Those trips used to mean roadside motels, or, if you were lucky, an Aloft, like the one in Tallahassee that became a respite for so many South Florida dogs and their owners hours before Hurricane Irma. Many modest hotels might be dog-friendly, but you can only take so many microwaved Holiday Inn cheese omelets. Something’s changed recently in the hotel industry, though, and at properties where anyone with a leash in hand might once have been evil-eyed by bellboys, we’re now given luxury doggie gift baskets and offered special packages including, and this is a true story, a limited-edition W Hotel dog bandana. In

Above W Fort Lauderdale’s

welcome gift for four-legged guests

Below: Eric and Lucky have

become hotel snobs.

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Po oc he s Where

Get Pampered

Spa-like gift bags and exorbitantly comfy dog beds greet dog owners at these fine Florida spots.

love their dogs as much (if not more than) they love the beach.

The Four Seasons Palm Beach offers five-star treatment to four-legged guests.

Below: There’s only

a small price to pay for a big weekend with your BFF at Solé Miami.

BAKER’S CAY RESORT KE Y LARGO

305-852-5553

Newly refurbished and reopened earlier this year, Baker’s Cay splays out along 13 acres of beach and lush groves along Florida Bay. The lobby and rooms have a decidedly clean, modern look, as do the two restaurants and two bars. Except for the pool area, the entire resort is open to dogs, which can partake in a “Paw Happy Hour” with treats and cocktails for the pups. There’s also pooch life jackets, beachside tiki huts for the pups, a husky who serves as the director of pet relations and marriage ceremonies designed to include fur babies. bakerscay.com

1 HOTEL SOUTH BEACH MIAMI BE ACH

305-604-1000

Only dogs under 25 pounds are

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allowed, but those who make the cut experience red-carpet treatment from concierges, who received special training on helping pet owners find groomers, dog parks and pet treats.

1hotels.com/south-beach

ALFOND INN

W I NTER PA RK

407-326-2623

Located in a city known for its petfriendly lifestyle, the Alfond gives pets the same curated service as it does its other guests, offering a

THE FOUR SEASONS PALM BEACH, SOLÉ MIAMI, BAKER’S CAY

Above: Floridians

“Photography Session with your BFF” package that comes with matted pictures to take home. thealfondinn.com

restriction at the Kimpton EPIC, which also provides loaner food bowls and pet beds. epichotel.com

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904-261-6161

ST . AUG UST IN E

A location in historic St. Augustine and not far from the beach provides a fine escape for up to two dogs under 75 pounds, with a lengthy list of dog-friendly restaurants nearby. bayfrontmarinhouse.com

AME L IA I SLAND The resort charges a steep $175 cleaning fee for guests bringing up to two pets of under 50 pounds each, but that allows for access to a sprawling beach perfect for early morning walks. omnihotels.com

COSTA D’ESTE BEACH RESORT & SPA

THE SETAI

772-562-9919

305-704-7817

V E RO BEACH

With no weight limits or extra fees, the Costa is extra friendly. There’s even a “Party Like a Pup” package including a dog bed and treats and toys from a local boutique. costadeste.com

FOUR SEASONS RESORT ORLANDO AT WALT DIS N E Y WO RLD RES O R T 407-313-7777

Ranked the top Disney-area resort

by U.S. News, the Four Seasons has an 18-hole golf course, a rooftop steakhouse and a generous small pet policy—dogs and cats are free, as long as they weigh under 25 lbs. fourseasons.com/orlando

MIAMI BE AC H

This trendy South Beach property caters more to purse puppies, with a 20-pound weight restriction and rules against pets in common areas. thesetaihotels.com

SOLÉ MIAMI

SUNNY ISLES B EAC H 786-923-9300

This gorgeous boutique hotel, located not far from the Bal Harbour shops, allows small dogs full-access to the property, apart from the beach, for only $25 a night. solemiami.com

MARRIOTT STANTON SOU TH B EA C H

305-536-7700

Dogs under 25 pounds are welcome at the Stanton, where you can order Puppuccinos in the attached Starbucks. In addition to the pet bed, water bowl and doggie bag at check-in, a summer staycation package waives the $150 pet fee. marriott.com/miamb

W HOTEL

FOR T LA U D ER D A LE 954-414-8200

You’ll pay a $100 deposit and $25 extra per night for dogs up to 40 pounds, but there’s a VIP pet suite package that includes the fee along with a Bark Box, tinkle turf pad, limited edition bandana and more. wfortlauderdale.com

THE WESTIN

TAM PA B AY

813-281-0000

There’s no fee for dogs under 45 pounds at the Westin, which offers a doggie welcome kit, provides “Heavenly Dog Beds” and allows pups to accompany their owners to the outdoor areas of the restaurant overlooking Tampa Bay. marriott.com

Below: After traveling

through 27 states with his pup, the author’s new favorite spot for a roadtripping hound is the recently revamped Baker’s Cay, where dogs are allowed almost everywhere.

FOUR SEASONS RESORT PA L M BEACH

561-582-2800

You’ll pay an extra $100 to bring your pup, but the reward is lavish accommodations, among the finest on an island full of luxury options. fourseasons.com/palmbeach

HOTEL COLONNADE

C ORAL G ABLES 305-441-2600

Pets get the four-star treatment at the Colonnade, including mats and food bowls, but owners pay a onetime fee of $75 for up to two pets. hotelcolonnade.com

KIMPTON EPIC HOTEL M I AM I

305-424-5226

Guests aren’t limited on the number of pets and there’s no weight

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This page from top: At 13 years old, Lucky might be more than 90 in human years, but she’s still up for a road trip; Many boutique hotels, like Solé Miami, now open their doors to dogs; the author and his Chessie Lucky

Winter Park, which has a good argument to be the state’s friendliest city for dogs, the boutique Alfond Inn attracts pet owners with a package that includes a session with a professional photographer and prints to take home later. Gloria and Emilio Estefan’s place in Vero, the Costa d’Este, also rolls out the canine red carpet. A pet suite comes stocked with toys, treats and a plush doggie bed brought in from a local boutique.

In Amelia Island, we discovered that the Atlanta families that mob the place in the summer disappear when schools reopen. We snagged a beachfront villa for a couple hundred bucks and opened the French doors to find nothing but the dune between us and the beach. Even under a wintery sky the color of primer, we spent a day doing nothing but lobbing a tennis ball on a beach so big it’s a long walk just to reach the water.

We probably should be sending holiday cards to the cleaning crew at the Westin Cape Coral, where we returned from a day of paddleboarding through the estuaries behind Pine Island. We made our way up to our room with a life-jacketed pup, using towels from the pool and a pocket full of pilfered mini shampoos to bathe away the brackishness.

The most welcoming resort we’ve found so far was on our latest road trip, to the newly refurbished Baker’s Cay in Key Largo. It’s not just that pets are allowed, but also

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that the pups can go everywhere, on that stunning beach lining the property, into the modern-coastal lobby, and even into every restaurant, including the fine dining one perched above the mangroves. After the pup played on the sand and slept between our chairs for most of the day, she joined us that night for dinner, winding clumsily between chair legs as we ate fresh catch.

R oa d W e a r y

Below: Costa d’Este

in Vero Beach is just one of dozens of luxury and boutique hotels across Florida that welcome pets.

SOLÉ MIAMI, COSTA D’ESTE

It was barely five days after we returned home to Fort Lauderdale from that trip that Lucky needed an emergency

vet visit. Maybe playing with that coconut and dragging behind us around the Baker’s Cay property was just too much for the old girl. She spent a night and most of a day panting, in considerable mysterious pain, unable to lie down, and no test seemed to diagnose what was wrong. “She can’t spend another night like that,” the vet said with some necessary finality. It seemed like maybe she had taken her last road trip.

But then she turned things around, energy returning over the next week, even chasing the ball one time for a Facebook video. This summer, we’re taking her with us again to Asheville. Along the way, we hear there’s a fine B&B in St. Augustine. And old dogs are welcome.

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ays, past and pre s ry d e n t glo ,5 t’s

FLASHBACK

ory of the S t s l pac na o eC s r e oa p s A

By BLANE BACHELOR

0

. n o

The Space Race Then & Now pollo 11’s m fter A o on sa m ar i s ye s i

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—to put a man on the moon as part of a pioneering space exploration program. Kennedy’s vision, in turn, put this Atlantic midsection of the state—with its coastal location (so rocket debris could fall into the water instead of onto populated areas) and relative proximity to the equator (to take advantage of the earth’s rotational velocity) well-suited to launches—on the world stage.

The region was hit hard by the 2008 recession, and when the last space shuttle landed in 201l, much of the workforce and tourism went with it, leaving a virtual ghost town of abandoned launchpads and warehouses. But these days, the Space Coast

THIS SPREAD AND PREVIOUS: NASA

i

t’s a childhood memory seared onto my brain as much as learning to ride a bike and losing my first tooth: watching a live space shuttle launch on Florida’s Space Coast.

It was early April 1983, and for an 8-year-old kid, seeing the sixth-ever shuttle launch during spring break would come with some serious bragging rights. My dad pulled our Subaru GL off A1A in Port Canaveral amidst a jumble of cars and hundreds of spectators, all there for the unobstructed views of Launch Pad 39A at the Kennedy Space Center across the Banana River. We arrived early to get a parking spot, and my younger brother and I grew restless in the midday heat as we waited.

The anticipation in the air was as thick as the humidity, the suspense building as—finally—the official countdown started, blaring from countless radios: T-minus 40, 39, 38…. My body practically reverberated with excitement as each second ticked off.

Then, liftoff: a stupefying blast of flames and smoke billowing from the launch pad as Challenger, pointed toward the cosmos, rose up, up, up, hitched to the rocket that would propel her to 184 nautical miles into the sky. The roar took a few seconds to reach us, deep and almost primordial, vibrating in our chests, rattling teeth in sockets. Nearby spectators erupted into jubilant cheers, but I just stood there, slack-jawed and speechless as the shuttle surged from earth into space, the rocket’s tail aglow in a surreal, neon-orange stream of firepower.

Countless necks craned to watch Challenger arc across the sky, magnificent contrails pluming behind as she eventually soared out of sight. Not a bad way to kick off her maiden voyage, a five-day, 2.1-million-mile journey.

Some version of this scene—different shuttle and spectators, same mood of reverence and awe—would repeat itself 129 more times during the 30-year history of NASA’s space shuttle program.

By the time the program began in 1981, Florida’s Space Coast, a 72-mile stretch of coastline about 45 minutes east of Orlando, had already been firmly established as a hub of national pride, sparked by President John F. Kennedy’s quest—immortalized in his famous May 1961 speech

3. 2. 1.

Blast Off!

Summer 2019 Launches Launch Site: K E N N E D Y S P A C E C E N T E R Date: June 21, 2019 Vehicle: SpaceX Falcon Heavy | STP-2 Mission: SpaceX Falcon Heavy will launch the U.S.

Air Force’s Space Test Program-2 mission with a group of military and research satellites.

Launch Site: C A P E C A N A V E R A L A I R F O R C E S T A T I O N Date: June 27 Vehicle: ULA Atlas V | AEHF 5 Mission: A United Launch Alliance Atlas 5 rocket takes off to send into space the fifth Advanced Extremely High Frequency satellite, which will deliver highly secure communications to Earth.

Launch Site: C A P E C A N A V E R A L A I R F O R C E S T A T I O N Date: July 7 Vehicle: SpaceX Falcon 9 | SpaceX CRS 18 Mission: The SpaceX Falcon 9 rocket to dispatch the 20th Dragon spacecraft mission on its 18th operational cargo delivery to the International Space Station.

Launch Site: C A P E C A N A V E R A L A I R F O R C E S T A T I O N Date: July 25 Vehicle: ULA Delta 4 | GPS 3 SV02 Mission: A United Launch Alliance Delta 4 rocket to launch the U.S. Air Force’s second third-generation navigation satellite for the Global Positioning System.

Launch Site: K E N N E D Y S P A C E C E N T E R Date: July 25 Vehicle: SpaceX Falcon 9 | Crew Dragon Demo 2 Mission: A SpaceX Falcon 9 Rocket will dispatch a is abuzz with activity once again, as big-name private-sector companies like SpaceX and Blue Origin, plus plenty of up-andcoming startups, breathe new life into the area’s long-neglected space infrastructure, lured by multimillion-dollar government contracts and subsidies. Even if you’re not a space geek, there’s a contagious excitement in the industry these days as NASA and the private sector forge into remarkable new frontiers of reusable rockets; commercial space travel; the first launch of American astronauts on American rockets from American soil in nearly a decade; and, eventually, human civilization on distant planets.

Opposite and this page: Neil Armstrong

became the first person to walk on the moon in 1969; an exuberant Mission Control Center in Houston, TX after Apollo 11’s sucessful mission and safe return home.

Crew Dragon spacecraft to the International Space Station on its first manned test flight with NASA astronauts Doug Hurley and Bob Behnken aboard.

Launch Site: C A P E C A N A V E R A L A I R F O R C E S T A T I O N Date: August 17 Vehicle: ULA Atlas V | CST-100 Starliner Mission: A United Launch Alliance Atlas 5 rocket will send Boeing’s first CST-100 Starliner spacecraft on an orbital test mission to the International Space Station.

Note: Launch dates and times subject to change. Check schedules before making plans.

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Thrilling new horizons, no doubt. But this summer is ripe for reflection on how, and where, it all got started: July 20 marks the 50th anniversary of the historic moon landing, when Neil Armstrong took one small step for man, one giant leap for mankind, on a groundbreaking Apollo mission launched from Launch Pad 39A on Florida’s Atlantic Coast.

Glory Days If you think about it, I just might owe my very existence to JFK’s determination. My parents, Bob and Charlotte Bachelor (née Lamb), met in 1969 during a party in my mom’s first-floor apartment in a Cocoa Beach complex called Palms East, which is still there. Like tens of thousands of other 20- and 30-somethings, my mom was lured by the explosion of jobs in Brevard County during the space race. Around the region, powerhouse players like Boeing, Lockheed Martin, IBM and McDonnell Douglas brought on the legions of manpower necessary for going where no man

It all created a sense of wonder about a particularly poignant time in American history—and my parents’ place in it. had gone before: tens of thousands of engineers, scientists and statisticians. More than 20,000 companies and 350,000 people were involved in space exploration in some way during the Apollo program’s peak in 1966.

“It was just like a big house party with lots of young people,” as my mom describes it.

My mom, a math whiz, worked first as a clerk for Bendix, a company that supplied and tracked rocket engine propellants; Boeing soon hired her away as a cost analyst. My dad, meanwhile, was an Air Force lieutenant newly stationed at Patrick Air Force Base. His job sometimes brought him into

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contact with NASA: Several times, he briefed Kurt Debus, the German-born rocket scientist who was the first director of Kennedy Space Center; another time, he talked his way onto a mission of an EC-135 ARIA aircraft, which were modified Boeings tricked out with high-tech equipment to collect data from manned spacecraft. He was on one of two ARIA planes that transported moon rocks back to the Cape from the Apollo capsule after its ocean splashdown (two ARIA aircraft were always used for missions like this, in case one went down).

Neither of my parents remember too much about their first meeting, except that my dad brought a bottle of Crown Royal to the party— highbrow booze for my mom’s Busch-drinking crew. But there must have been a spark of something, because my dad got my mom’s number and eventually asked her out. They started dating in Cocoa Beach and married five years later, moving right after their wedding to Edwards Air Force Base, California, so my dad could attend Test Pilot School. Soon after that, my brother, Jason, and I came along. We were both born in Valparaiso, a small Panhandle town where my parents still live, after our family moved back to the area in 1987 following my dad’s retirement from the Air Force. But my brother and I grew up enchanted by the lore of our parents’ lives B.C.—

This page clockwise:

NASA

A photo of Earth snapped by the Apollo 11 crew; Neil Armstrong training for his mission; the Apollo 11 crew prepares for launch.

Before Children—and especially by stories from magical-sounding places like Cocoa Beach and Cape Canaveral, where their orbits first collided.

Everything about the era seemed so cool: the Ron Jon T-shirts they bought from the worldfamous Cocoa Beach surf shop and wore holes into; those legendary Palms East parties, like the one where they ran out of daiquiri mix and someone had the brilliant idea to instead use jelly beans as a mixer; how my mom was nicknamed “Charlie” by her mostly male colleagues; Friday happy hours at the Mouse Trap, an infamous hotel bar where astronauts and mere mortals mingled over on-the-rocks martinis; and snippets of my dad’s work life, some more obscure than others (if he ever responded to a question with “I can’t answer that,” my brother and I knew to immediately follow up with “Why? Is it classified?”). It all created a sense of wonder about a particularly poignant time in American history—and my parents’ place in it—that stayed with me throughout my life.

Seeing the Challenger launch was the highlight of that 1983 spring break trip for my brother and me. But it wasn’t until I visited the Kennedy Space Center six years ago, as an adult with my folks and husband, that I began to appreciate the enormity of the United States’ achievements in space — as well as my parents’ roles, however small, in them. Sitting in a replica Gemini capsule, I felt the squeeze of impending claustrophobia; it was impossible to fathom spending days in such

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FLORIDA’S SPACE COAST OFFICE OF TOURISM, COURTESY BL ANE BACHELOR, NASA GLENN BENSON

I just stood there, slack-jawed and speechless as the shuttle surged from earth into space, the rock­et’s tail aglow in a surreal, neon-orange stream of firepower.

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tight confines (big props to Apollo 11 command module pilot Michael Collins, who never earned household recognition like Armstrong or Buzz Aldrin but deserves just as much credit). As we entered the Apollo/Saturn V Center—also known as the Vertical Assembly Building, or VAB, where rockets were built and where my mom had an office decades ago at her Boeing job—I was gobsmacked by the sheer size of the building itself: a massive rectangle that spans 8 acres and soars 525 feet high. But the real showstopper was the Saturn V rocket, the largest ever flown through space. At 363 feet tall (it’s got 60 feet on the Statue of Liberty), it’s displayed on its side so visitors can get an easier look at its three stages (that’s industry speak for sections). Gazing up at this beast, I was awestruck yet again.

My parents, meanwhile, were abuzz reliving memories of their time on the Cape. During the bus ride to the VAB, my dad told a story about seeing an experiment to test an emergency escape procedure from the capsule. Simulating an astronaut, a dummy was attached to a wire from Pad 34 to the VAB and released. But the dummy slammed into the automatic brake at high speed, its legs whipping over its head, which would have spelled disaster for a real human. “I saw that and said, ‘Well, it’s back to the drawing board,’” my dad recalled. My mom remembered watching her first launch, of an unmanned Titan rocket, during her Bendix job in a small trailer near the beach: “It was like being out there in the sticks,” she said. The rocket exploded midair,

Opposite and this page from top:

Revelers watch as a rocket embarks on a 200-mile journey up; the author’s spaceconnected family in the ’70s; Falcon 9, the Space Coast’s hope for the future

debris drifting down like snow onto the group of onlookers.

Throughout the day, I found myself as impressed by my parents’ insights as I was by the exhibits themselves.

That hot July day also offered something a bit more meaningful for me. Less than two months prior, my husband and I had lost a much-wanted pregnancy. I was drowning in heartbreak. But immersing yourself in a living museum that celebrates the bravery, ingenuity and perseverance of the human spirit in the face of enormous obstacles offers beacons of hope—as well as a refreshing distraction, even for just a few hours—as you muddle through the worst grief of your life.

I found myself especially entranced by the $100 million Atlantis exhibit, which had opened about a month prior to our visit. I was mesmerized by this marvel of engineering just a few feet from me, rotated as if in midflight, payload bay doors open—a view that, to this point, had been seen only by astronauts.

I was bursting with patriotism, no doubt. But Atlantis also struck

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a personal chord. At one point, we had both carried human life. We’d both been banged up and battered by the forces of the universe, although her scars—scratches and scrapes on her nose, flecks of space dust on her fuselage—were more visible than mine. Yet, here we both were.

NewSpace

This page from top:

The Astronaut Hall of Fame honors “Heroes and Legends”; SpaceX now draws its own crowds to watch its Falcon rockets take off.

NASA

Much has changed on the Cape—and in the aerospace industry itself—in the six years since that last visit to my parents’ old haunts. Boosted by this new chapter of the space industry, the region has lifted itself from the economic slump that hit after the ending of the shuttle program, which led to double-digit unemployment and a severe dip in tourism, too.

By some estimates, the surging NewSpace industry, as it’s often called, could reach $2.7 trillion in the 2040s. As a result, the Space Coast is once again booming, just like it was a half-century ago during that historic Apollo lunar landing

mission. It’s a delight to watch unfold, even from afar, as I now live in San Francisco. Each piece of exciting space-related news from Florida’s Atlantic coastline some 3,000 miles east always warms my heart, a piece of which will always reside there.

Over the last five years, more than a dozen (and counting) aerospace companies have set up shop in the area, according to Dale Ketcham, vice president of government and external relations for Space Florida, a state-funded aerospace economic development group. And they’re making constant headlines.

In early March, SpaceX nailed a test run of its unmanned capsule Crew Dragon from Cape Canaveral, paving the way for the company to be the first to launch two astronauts into space from American soil since 2011. In late February, Firefly, a

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This page: Crowds

Texas-based startup and one of several companies that specialize in lightweight rockets that will haul satellites into space, announced its plans to spend $52 million to renovate Space Launch Complex 20 and manufacturing facilities at Exploration Park. Meanwhile, Relativity Space, which builds rockets using 3D technology, secured an Air Force contract to use Launch Complex 16; the company plans to put the first 3D-printed rocket into space by 2020, potentially marking another first for Cape Canaveral. Of course, there have been setbacks along the way, too, including a high-profile SpaceX rocket explosion. But the victories far outnumber the mishaps.

Not surprisingly, jobs have soared as well, with the unemployment rate dropping from a high of nearly 12 percent in November 2010 to 3 percent in December 2018. Tourism, meanwhile, is on the rise, with hotels preparing for large launch crowds, and area shops and restaurants reaping benefits too. In 2019, 32 launches have already been scheduled, with government officials targeting 48 by 2021. By Space Florida estimates, that number could increase to around 100 annually within the next five years, paving the way for a new era of growth.

My life, too, looks quite different these days.

Most notably, I’m now a mother, a seemingly miraculous blessing that came after three tumultuous years following that devastating loss in 2013. My son is almost three, and, just like my father, his GrandBob, he is obsessed with aviation, often spotting “o-planes”—that’s toddler-speak for airplanes—high in the sky that my husband and I have to squint to see and constantly begging us to go the “o-port.” It’s not out of the realm of possibility that he could one day visit the moon on a spring break trip—or follow in the footsteps of his grandparents as part of a revolutionary workforce that takes humans to even farther reaches of the galaxy.

For now, though, my husband and I are keeping things a little closer to home and starting to plan when we’ll take our little guy to his first rocket launch at the Cape. Here’s hoping the experience sparks the same kind of wonder in him that I felt so often in my own childhood, thanks to a party my mom threw that a young Air Force lieutenant happened to crash and a country hell-bent on putting a man on the moon.

gather near the countdown clock at NASA’s Kennedy Space Center to watch space shuttle Atlantis make its final liftoff from launch pad 39A on July 8, 2011.

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Down Wheref

Tarpon Roll An adventure on a poling skiff deep in the Everglades backcountry with one of the state’s most sought-after guides casts light on the biggest threats to Florida’s ecosystem, offering a glimpse at the worsening conditions but not without glimmers of hope that our fisheries can be saved.

By BUCKY McMAHON

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PREVIOUS SPREAD: MAC STONE PHOTOGR APHY; THIS SPREAD: GARY GILLET T, DAN DIEZ, EVERGL ADES FOUNDATION

Nature

here is embattled, but the beautiful light abides, along with the stillness and timeless silence. Captain Benny Blanco has cut the motor of his Hell’s Bay poling skiff, and it drifts above its rippling reflection. We’ve just emerged out of a maze of mangrove islands, through which Captain Blanco unerringly steered the skiff, at optimum speed, looking like a Formula One driver with his fabric face shield pulled up to his sunglasses.

Now we rest at the mouth of a caramel-colored creek, looking out across the many-miles-wide expanse of Whitewater Bay. About a hundred yards distant, at the mouth of a different creek, there’s a sudden flash of silver. We’re about five miles northwest of the Flamingo marina where we launched, and are now deep in the Everglades backcountry, where we’re hoping to cast for tarpon—and for hope itself.

“We’ll just watch a while,” Blanco says, scanning the bay

with peregrine eyes. He’s thinking aloud about the barometric pressure, the wind speed and direction, the tidal push of the water—what it’s like right here, right now, for tarpon. Are conditions to their liking? Will they “lay up,” as anglers say, gobbling whatever floats along? Blanco describes the mood of tarpon laying up as “happy and relaxed.” The best guides form deep connections with their fisheries, he told me earlier, and with what nature is telling them.

“There’s a high-pressure ridge over the Bay now,” Blanco says. “See how the clouds are piling up?” Indeed, there’s an immense cottony Rorschach in the sky and on the Bay. “The tarpon can feel the weight.”

I don’t doubt it. The tarpon is a perfect creature, in its way, perfectly attuned. I once spent an unforgettable half-hour or so snorkeling amidst a school of feeding tarpon and witnessed the power, the speed, the eyes like horses’ eyes, the indignant undershot jaws blowing open wide as the tarpon repeatedly charged a mass of synchronized silversides. Now I see another flash, as another tarpon rolls—no one knows why they do this—sending a semaphore of light back at the sky, and I feel the old, old hunter’s glee. To sight-fish for tarpon, to see those massive living jewels, and skillfully present a lure, and see a big one take it? That’s the holy grail of sportfishing. Aficionados will spend small—and not so small—fortunes in the pursuit.

Megalops atlanticus is a slow-maturing creature, but with its 80-year lifespan it can reach 8 feet in length and bulk up to 350 pounds—bigger than an NFL lineman. Tarpon breed in the deep, open ocean waters—anywhere from Virginia to Brazil.

The tiny spawn make heroic journeys to shallow estuaries where they grow big and beautiful. And tough. With mouths like concrete, they are hard to hook, harder to land. Anglers speak of “jumping” a tarpon, having one on the line just long enough to see it burst from the surface like a Polaris missile. A

fight with a well-hooked tarpon can last hours, featuring many leaps up to 10 feet high. Mad as hell, it will shake its gill plates, making a sound like a rattlesnake.

Tarpon are one of the most sought-after game fish on earth, and these days Captain Benny Blanco, as one of the most in-demand guides in the Everglades, earns a comfortable portion of Florida’s $8 billion annual recreational fishing business. The 43-year-old South Florida native, who’s been fishing the Glades since he was five and been a pro for more than two decades, is a frequent guide for deep-pocketed obsessives.

He’ll be out on the water and get a call from Manhattan or

To see those massive living jewels, and skillfully present a lure, and see a big one take it? That’s the holy grail of sportfishing.

Aspen. It’s Mr. X or Y, jonesing for a “silver king” adrenaline rush. And they’ll be here the next day if Blanco green-lights them. “They’re great people, but certifiable,” he laughs. The tarpon-mad.

Blanco was the go-to guide for the great Peter Matthiessen, author of Killing Mister Watson. “He knew more about Florida history than anyone I’ve ever met,” Blanco says. Zen master Matthiessen and the guide weren’t always seeking tarpon nirvana. The Everglades National Park is the only place in the world where you can catch all of sportfishing’s Big Five: tarpon, bonefish, redfish, snook and permit. For Buck Leahy, an aerospace consultant and a once-ortwice-a-year client for the last fifteen Counter clockwise from top: All of years, Everglades fishing is about snook, sportfishing’s Big redfish, and sea trout—in that order, and Five can be found in the waters always catch and release. “Relentless” is of Everglades how Leahy describes the guide. And National Park; tarpon can reach passionate: “I’ve never fished with 350 pounds over anyone who loves being out on the water a lifespan that can last 80 years; more,” he told me by phone. He recalled Benny Blanco casts light on one very windy day, so windy Blanco’s issues impacting scheduled clients canceled. Leahey the health of Florida’s fisheries. and his brother jumped on the chance.

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“He worked his ass off poling in that wind, and put us onto the biggest snook of our lives.” Another fond memory: Blanco poling the skiff into a creek, where they surprised a ten-foot bull shark that nearly swamped them. And cruising by a sunning saltwater crocodile, a toothy dinosaur as long as the skiff and as big around as a 50-gallon barrel. “I haven’t waded in the water down there since,” Leahy said. “I stay in the boat!”

On this spring day, we’ve had a taste of that wildness—a baby bull shark, a little croc tailing away underwater—and already caught and released a few small snook and redfish by spin casting swimbait. These fish are the class of 2017, hurricane

Unquantifiable Magnetism “Horrible,” Blanco finally pronounces the conditions for tarpon. The wind is piling up the water in ways not to the tarpon’s liking. Apparently, they are creatures of strong preferences, like Melville’s Bartleby. “But hey, it’s sunny and breezy and no bugs.” We’ve gone back to spin casting at the creek banks, to the music of rod tips swishing. The hits come fast. A master puppeteer with the lure, Blanco catches at least three redfish or snook to my every one. “Well, I have been doing it all my life,” he says.

While we toss our lures, he tells me about working with

babies, born when Irma’s record rainfall gave the glades a much needed freshwater bath and every living thing drank in a big gulp of life. Leap-frogging from fishing spot to fishing spot, we’ve penetrated deep enough into the back country to feel a psychic twinge of the terror and awe of the old Everglades, the unfathomable, uncrossable swamp that claimed nearly half the state of Florida and bogged every wheel of progress.

The swamp was a hunter-gatherer’s paradise (with mosquitos!) then a naturalist’s dream, with bird traffic like I-95 and gator holes overflowing with everything that squirms.

And water, sweet water, the pioneers said, flowing south at a dawdling pace, fresh and pure.

Project Healing Waters, taking double-amputees into the back country and fishing with clients on suicide watch. “They’ve all been helped,” he says. “It’s not about the fish. There’s a magnetism in this place, something unquantifiable. Something that we desperately need to hold onto.”

Lately, he’s been juggling his high-paying clients with hosting a TV show, Florida Sportsman Watermen, which began airing this spring on World Fishing Network, the Sportsman Channel and Fox Sports Sun. Even though it comes at the cost of family time with his wife and three daughters, it’s a platform he can’t give up because of the voice it grants him. “It’s irresponsible for anyone who makes a living on the water not to try to make

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CAPTAIN BENNY BL ANCO, GARY GILLET

a difference,” he tells me. Along with delivering the show’s strong conservation message, he’s expending a lot of time and energy on political activism with a coalition of guides, Captains for Clean Water. The group has been making itself heard online and in Tallahassee since the super-red tides of 2016–2018, bolstered by excess nutrients flowing from Lake Okeechobee, decimated fish stock on both coasts of South Florida. “Guides are the eyes and ears on the spot. We have to be the voice,” he says.

So he tells me again: Sure, it’s still beautiful here. People might think the fishing is great, if they weren’t here in the

the swamp was the completion in the 1930s of a system of levees, later named the Herbert Hoover Dike, which corralled the vast freshwater supply of mighty Lake Okeechobee. Instead of sloshing over the banks and meandering south, excess water began to be shunted west to the Caloosahatchee River and east to the St. Lucie via man-made canals, or parceled out for irrigation. With that garrote, the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers cut off entirely the sheet flow of fresh water to the south, and the River of Grass ceased to exist. Eighteen-hundred miles of canals and dams later, all the dreams of the rich and powerful and clever men who saw money to be made once the water was

glory days. But a guide knows when his fishery is dying. Benny Blanco lives in a state of emergency. He hears the sirens all the time. The park needs more fresh water, desperately. This is serious as a heart attack.

“The Everglades is in cardiac arrest!” Blanco says.

tamed have come to pass: cattle grazing to the north of Lake O, sugar plantations to the south, a bounty of fruit and vegetables with a year-round growing season and a real-estate boom that hasn’t stopped resounding yet.

But protean nature always scoffs at mankind’s puny bonds, and imposes, in both blatant and mysterious ways, limits on our growth. The inevitable waste products of agriculture and municipal areas have turned Lake Okeechobee into a cauldron of chemicals and microbes. The nutrient and sediment-laden brew sent west and east via canal-to-coastal estuaries acts like a steroid for blue-green algae (the highly visible green glop) and fuels extensive and long-lasting red tide events. The red

Nature’s Squeeze Play In her classic The Everglades: River of Grass, Marjorie Stoneman Douglas sums up Central and South Florida’s water management as “one chaotic gesture of greed and ignorance and folly.” That gesture is now over a century old and still ongoing. But the first real “success” in the campaign to drain

From left:

The Everglades mangroves provide a fish-breeding estuary; Captain Blanco releasing a fresh catch; Hell’s Bay Boatworks owner, Chris Peterson cooking breakfast on a Harney River Chickee; Captain’s for Clean Water Co-Founder Chris Wittman, Blanco and Peterson camping on an isolated beach.

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of Engineers releases that water to the east and to the west, which happens several times a year, the Glades is deprived of the freshwater source it desperately needs. Before the water of Lake O was confined, before it was polluted, it was a vital link in the Everglades Ecosystem. Now the water here isn’t as clear as it was in Blanco’s youth, and it’s saltier. Cast by cast, I’ve been receiving a tutorial. In the River of Grass, that grass was

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sawgrass. Now saltwater intrusion is collapsing the sawgrass marshes of the Everglades. Invasive species? Yeah, they’re a problem. Blanco will kill a python if he sees one. But that’s a cut on the hand. It’s the water, the lack of fresh water. That’s the heart attack.

Nature’s plumbing scheme, following the whims of meteorology and physics, creating the wonders of the unblemished peninsula, was for the fresh water to flow all the way from what is now Orlando to the Florida Keys.

Fresh mingled with salt in the vast shallow pool between the Glades and the Keys. Mostly cut off from the Gulf by mud banks and mangroves, the merging waters became Florida Bay, Florida’s largest estuary and a vital breeding ground for recreational and commercial fisheries. These days Florida Bay receives only a quarter of that historic fresh water flow. The brief influx from Hurricane Irma highlighted the resilience of the Bay and of the national park as a whole, occasioning the births of the little redfish we’re catching today, as well as record numbers of nesting wading birds. But the dry season of 2015 had already killed 40,000 acres of seagrass, about 10 percent of the seagrass in the Bay. As more water was lost to evaporation than could be replenished, the salinity in parts of Florida Bay spiked to twice that of normal seawater. As the hypersalinity killed seagrass and oysters, the die-offs fueled algal blooms—another cascading disaster. And as the creeping seawater, unseen, penetrates the Floridan Aquifer, it poses a threat to the drinking water of 8 million South Floridians.

Pollution to the east, pollution to the west and salt from the south—nature’s squeeze play. Heart attack? That sounds about right.

Headwaters and Heads of State Dr. Stephen Davis, wetland ecologist for the Everglades Foundation, prefers a different metaphor. “It’s like you’re driving on a country road at night and you’re about to run out of gas.

You’ve been at the wheel for hours, running on fumes. And then, there, up ahead, you see a light. A gas station! We have hope,” he told me in a phone interview.

And a plan that might work. After all, environmental science has come a long way since the days when Governor Napoleon Bonaparte Broward (1905 to 1909), ran on the stance that Florida should “drain that abominable pestilence-ridden

MAC STONE PHOTOGR APHY

tide super-bloom of 2017 carried over to what activists are calling “Toxic 18.” Instead of the limited fish-kill of a normal, naturally occurring red tide, this one was killing everything from manatees to sea turtles, dolphins and crabs. The toxins were in the air as well, leading to public health concerns. Drug stores sold out of surgical masks, pictures of green glop and belly-up fish flooded the internet and tourists fled with their dollars. Fishing guides were phoning out-of-state clients, telling them, “Don’t come.” By the end of the summer of 2018, the red tide had killed some 2,000 tons of marine life and cost businesses more than $8 million.

Here in the Everglades backcountry, Benny Blanco and I seem far removed from that ongoing catastrophe. We’re far from the cattle ranches, farms, fruit groves and septic tanks that pollute Lake O. But every time the Army Corps

FISH I NG AN D MORE I N TH E W ESTE RN E V E RG LADES

DIY Ten Thousand Islands

Plan your own adventure to Everglades City (stone crab capital of the world), the Ten Thousand Islands and Everglades National Park when temperatures and mosquitoes cool down in fall and winter GETTING THERE: Drive past panther crossings along the fabled Tamiami Trail or fly your own aircraft into Everglades Airport, a small landing strip perfect for Cessnas or helicopters.

WHERE TO STAY: The iconic Rod and Gun Club is more than 100 years old and has 17 AC-equipped rooms, divided among three buildings.

Pitch a tent on a secluded beach or roll out a sleeping bag on a chickee—wooden platform structures perched over the water. A permit (and knowlege of the area) is required for backcountry camping in the Everglades.

WHAT TO EAT: Enjoy fresh off the boat stone crab and seafood at Triad Seafood Market & Cafe.

WHAT TO DO:

E V E R G L A D E S N AT I O N A L PA R K :

Explore by kayaks or bike, rented from local vendors. Find referrals for fishing guides, ecotours, airboat rides, and more through the Florida Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission.

C LYD E B U TC H E R B I G C YP R E S S G A L L E R Y:

Take an Everglades swamp tour or see the environmental works of fine art photographer Clyde Butcher at his gallery, about a 30-minute drive from Everglades City on the Tamiami Trail.

M U S E U M O F T H E E V E R G L A D E S:

Discover 2,000 years of history, as well as stories of the 1920s development by Barron Collier.

H I STO R I C S M A L L W O O D STO R E :

Find backcountry essentials and souvenirs inspired by local lore. paradisecoast.com; myfwc.com

swamp.” When President Truman dedicated the 1,509,000acre Everglades National Park in 1947, there were plenty of environmentalists angry at the relatively stingy apportioning, but no one fully grasped the ecological issues. The Park was seen as a garden enshrined, not as a limb crudely amputated.

But by the 1980s, gangrene had clearly set in. As Michael Grunwald recounts in The Swamp, Governor Bob Graham read about the issue in the Sports Illustrated swimsuit issue in a scathing article decrying South Florida’s disintegrating water quality and the coral and fish dying from Pennecamp State Park to Palm Beach. Alarmed and soon scientifically informed, Graham created Save Our Everglades, intending to restore the natural flow from Okeechobee to the Everglades by the year 2000. Instead, that was the year the U.S. Congress passed— amidst more outrage, alarm and bipartisan enthusiasm—the

Comprehensive Everglades Restoration Plan (or CERP).

It’s an effort simple enough for a hashtag, #senditsouth, and multifarious enough to be called “the world’s largest, most complex, eco-oriented jigsaw puzzle.” To simplify a file cabinet as big as Florida’s phallic Capitol building, CERP calls for the diversion of the toxic west and east discharges from Lake Okeechobee south into a massive reservoir to be built in the Everglades Agricultural Area. “Think of reservoirs like batteries, storing the energy,” Davis told me. From there, the water can be transferred in controlled releases to artificial wetlands, filled with filtering plants (“like surge protectors”), and then sent on its purified way to the thirsty Everglades National Park—once the Tamiami Trail is raised in strategic places.

It’s going to cost a lot. “It’s coming. Soon. And a lot more than you would ever believe,” President Trump said about funding

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Above from left:

Hell’s Bay fishing guide Steven Winkel, grabbing a tarpon caught in Everglades National Park; Blanco running through Whitewater Bay in a Hell’s Bay Professional

for Everglades restoration during a recent visit to Lake O. The cost was originally estimated at $7.8 billion, but “more than you would ever believe” is probably closer to the truth. And it will take “ages”—read: 30 to 50 years. The state will have to buy 60,000 acres of land in the Everglades Agricultural Area, some it from reluctant sellers (Big Sugar). In an early snafu in December 2018, the South Florida Water Management District granted the sugar industry an extension on a lease of land that should’ve been released already for digging reservoirs. “It’s like

It crosses my mind that if Blanco took off, I would be fatally screwed. you pull into the gas station, but it’s closed. But you see another one down the road,” Davis chuckled, ruefully. “History may repeat itself.”

He meant, nothing much will happen except a lot of lawyering. But the good news is that the bad news is so bad it’s caught the attention of politicians. As Davis pointed out, Governor DeSantis, who’s making all the right noises, sees the ties between the economy, the water supply and tourism. Such

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is the visual power of an algal bloom, which has made Florida waters a national concern. Even Sen. Scott has his green hat on.

U.S. Rep. Donna Shalala called Everglades restoration “life or death for the people of Florida.” As Mark Twain said, “Water flows uphill towards money.” If enough people agree it will cost more to do nothing, then maybe money will attract the water back south.

An Angler’s Prayer Today, fishing with Benny Blanco, and listening to his heartbreak, every cast has been a prayer for connection. Not that I don’t take hope from Blanco. He’s a strong, vocal, committed wise-use conservationist, and he has hope (he has children, so he has to). “I fully believe we can fix this,” he tells me, and he knows more than I do, and feels the anger and political momentum of his watermen colleagues, a coalition 30,000 strong and growing. But I’ve only recently come off of six hours on the Florida Turnpike—the River of Cars. There, evolution in its blind indifference carries on with survival of the most profitable.

Blanco hooks a ladyfish, a silver ribbon with pterodactyl jaws—a trash fish but a beauty. As he’s letting it go, I feel a particularly fierce strike on my lure. “I’ve got a big one!” I say, which gets a laugh from Blanco. He can tell from the bend in my pole exactly what I’ve hooked: another juvie. For a big man,

GARY GILLET T, MAC STONE PHOTOGR APHY

he has a surprisingly high-pitched giggle, which is a pleasure to elicit. My fish is indeed another juvie redfish, but a cool one, with a dozen vivid black spots instead of the usual one on each side near the tail. Blanco snaps a picture with his phone and I toss it back.

The clouds have turned dark as the day wanes. We’ve seen no more rolling tarpon. The heavier tackle has stayed in its rack. But I wasn’t really after the holy grail of sports fishing. I just wanted a reminder of my Florida boyhood days, when I coveted all the latest gear and stalked the bluegill and catfish and whiting with the patience of a heron, and every fishing trip was like an extra Christmas. And those pleasures, the guide delivered.

We have a long boat trip back, and likely a wet one, but before I settle back and hold onto my cap, I ask if we can stop by an old Calusa Indian shell mound Blanco mentioned to me earlier. Finding it takes an impressive piece of guiding because there’s hardly anything left. The Calusa were killed off by men and diseases sometime around the 18th century. Unlike the lofty mounds to the west in the Ten Thousand Islands area, this one is a faint bleached crescent on a mangrove island barely a foot above the water. Since there’s nothing like it anywhere nearby, Blanco speculates that the Calusa, the original human inhabitants of the Glades, must’ve rafted the shells out here to

build a lookout, to prepare to greet the Spanish with spears and arrows.

Blanco poles to the jungly shore and I step gingerly off the skiff, crunching on shells into the shaded interior.

There’s no trash, there are no footprints (well, mine, behind me). Perfect stillness, perfect silence. Perhaps I’m the first person to bother pacing these worn ramparts since the days of the Calusa. It crosses my mind that if Blanco took off, I would be fatally screwed. That’s a gift of the wild, knowledge of the tenuousness of everything. That and a feeling of being truly insignificant, but in a blessed way, as a tiny part of something ineffably powerful and fine beyond our words.

As I’m about to step back onto the skiff, I look down through the tannin-stained water at the shoreline and see the weirdest thing. It’s a big horseshoe crab shell, a couple of feet underwater, impaled on a jagged mangrove root. I’m still trying to figure out how it got into that predicament. These crabs’ shells are not easily penetrated. Rogue wave or rogue wake?

I reach down to try to wrench it loose and am met with the uncanny scuttling of legs. The thing is alive! It doesn’t come off easily, but I manage to free the creature without further cracking the shell. I let it loose and it drifts, threatening to go belly-up. But when I reach farther down and settle it onto the bottom, right-side up, it takes off at top horseshoe crab speed, along its merry prehistoric way.

Above:

Environmentalists initially feared Governor DeSantis, but many now say he’s made promising moves to protect the Everglades; Captains for Clean Water is a nonprofit organization, started by fishing guides, dedicated to protecting Florida’s waterways and estuaries.

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TABLE

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This spread: Led by chef Greg Baker, The Refinery helped cement Seminole Heights’ reputation as a serious foodie FLAMINGOMAG.COM /// destination.

SUMMER 2019

THE AREA’S ONCE DESOLATE CULINARY SCENE HAS GROWN INTO A FERTILE PROVING GROUND FOR SOME OF FLORIDA’S MOST INNOVATIVE CHEFS AND RESTAURATEURS. AWARD-WINNING CULINARY WRITER LAURA REILEY TAKES US ON A CURATED GASTRONOMIC TOUR OF THE NEWEST AND MOST NOTABLE PLACES TO FEAST.

for TAMPA

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Clockwise from left: An old fashioned from Mandarin Hide; the oxtail bruschetta from Il Ritorno; Il Ritorno chef David Benstock; the menu at Brick & Mortar uses farm-to-table ingredients; the caramelized onion and cheese tart from Brick & Mortar

GR AND BR AND & CO., HYPE GROUP, BRICK & MORTAR

It’s been talked about for years.

Early on it was wishful thinking, frankly misguided optimism. And for a while it was a kind of plucky civic boosterism by Tampa Bay restaurant titans like Richard Gonzmart of the Columbia and Maryann Ferenc of Mise en Place.

And now it is just stone-cold true.

Tampa Bay is a restaurant destination, making dozens of lists of foodie meccas and the next “it” dining spots in the past two years. There are reasons for that. The area’s demographics have skewed younger in the past decade, millennials and Gen Zers coming home after college to start working and begin adulthood. Craft beer led the way for loads of locals to get invested in what they eat and drink, which in turn drew craft distilleries, fancy ice creameries and loads of small entrepreneurial artisan food businesses. And as we see in so many great restaurant cities, good restaurants beget good restaurants, and talent begets talent.

The interesting thing is that this blossoming of comestible options has happened on both sides of the bay: on the Tampa side in neighborhoods like Seminole Heights and Tampa Heights, Hyde Park and right downtown, and also in St. Petersburg, whose downtown has erupted in a T-shaped restaurant row, with Beach Drive forming the top bar of the “T” and Central Avenue the long stem. The flavor of each neighborhood is a bit different, but here’s where to focus your attentions.

Get things started off on the St. Pete side with a whistle-wetter. One of the most sophisticated cocktail spots in the area was also among the area’s first craft cocktail bars. MANDARIN HIDE is hip and clubby, with two sister restaurants—an outdoor fish shack called Trophy Fish in St. Pete and Mandarin Heights in Tampa. The flagship maintains the coolest vibe, offering $6 experimental cocktails on Tuesday nights and come-hither bottomless mimosas on Sundays.

Adequately fortified, you can choose between two of St. Pete’s most intimate chef-driven charmers, IL RITORNO or BRICK & MORTAR a block away. Their owners have become part of the fabric of the local scene. The former is the creation of a local boy made good, chef and co-owner David Benstock, who went off to Johnson and Wales University in Denver and worked in some of the country’s best kitchens before coming home to roost. His passion is rigorously plated contemporary Italian. There’s an exhibition kitchen and chef’s table where you can swoon over preparations like short rib mezzaluna, squid-ink capellini and white truffle risotto. Brick & Mortar, a 2015 offshoot of Hope Montgomery and Jason Ruhe’s catering business, is a wee bit harder to characterize, but it is intimate and affordable, some dishes with Indonesian or Spanish influences and others squarely in the comfort food arena (there’s a rock-star burger, but the signature dish is S U M M E R 2 0 1 9 /// FLAMINGOMAG.COM

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Everything you need to know on the Tampa side is all under one roof. Or several roofs. Hip, family-friendly food halls are the city’s most recent preoccupation. The first was the HALL ON FRANKLIN, the brainchild of Jamal Wilson.

It’s a little different than food halls in many cities because the eight vendors function synergistically— customers are able to sit down in the glamorous 1920s-style storefront and order from any of them, servers trotting off to retrieve a seafood bowl from POKE ROSE or a cerebral cocktail from Ro Patel’s THE COLLECTION. HEIGHTS PUBLIC MARKET came next, part of the more than $20 million Armature Works project from developers Chas Bruck and Adam Harden.

Since its debut in early 2018, it has heralded an aura of extreme enthusiasm for Tampa Heights, the vast parking lot swamped with folks ready to snack along the length of the multiethnic, 22,000-square-foot market with communal seating. There have been a few vendor switch-outs, and STEELBACH and

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OAK & OLA have cemented the complex with two fullservice, sit-down options. But it has continued to tinker with an indoor–outdoor formula that keeps it hopping from early until late.

SPARKMAN WHARF, opened at the end of 2018, may be the buzziest of them all, anchoring the Strategic Property Partners’ (that’s Tampa Bay Lightning owner Jeff Vinik’s joint venture with Bill Gates’ investment management company) $3 billion Water Street development where Channelside Bay Plaza used to be. It includes a collection of metal converted shipping containers clustered in a grouping at the water’s edge, with some of the area’s top restaurateurs using it as an opportunity to do something new. There’s MONTADOS, a Spanish concept from Mise en Place; GALLITO TAQUERIA from the dynamos at Rooster & the Till in Seminole Heights; EDISON’S SWIGAMAJIG from celeb Jeannie Pierola; and BT IN A BOX, created by prolific chef BT Nguyen.

Now add in giant Jenga, a dog-friendly lawn and clusters of beanbags and Adirondack chairs and you’ve got a cool Tampa hangout.

Hyde Park Village in South Tampa has expanded and contracted over the decades, occasionally attracting a critical mass of laudable restaurants and then fizzling as the economy wanes. Right now it’s in a sweet spot, with a good mix of retail options, a lively Sunday farmers market and a few notable restaurants, the best of which is ON SWANN, a collaboration between Cafe Ponte’s Chris Ponte, his wife Michelle, former Outback Steakhouse senior vice president Trudy Cooper and former Bonefish Grill president John Cooper. With one of the

HALL ON FR ANKLIN, FR ANCIS EMIL FABIC , ADVENTURE MARKETING, AMY PEZZICAR A , OXFORD EXCHNAGE

carpaccio topped with microgreens and a housemade ravioli that, once pierced, leaks sumptuous poached egg and goat cheese mousse).

Beach Drive has a number of lovelies, including the new seafood spot ALTO MARE FISH BAR and its sister cheese-and-charcuterie ANNATA WINE BAR next door, and STILLWATERS TAVERN, for stylish New England–style dishes and tap cocktails.

But before you head out of St. Pete, turn your attentions to ICHICORO ANE, a New York–nightlife kind of place serving up ramen and revelry. Co-owner Noel Cruz and crew also run Ichicoro in Seminole Heights and other projects in the area’s growing handful of food halls. End on a sweet note with a fancy but quenching ice pop, with a flavor like pistachio rosewater, at HYPPO.

Clockwise from above:

The Hall on Franklin sets a swanky yet relaxed vibe; The bronzini a la russa from Edison Food + Drink Lab is a fan favorite; Armature Works makes for the perfect spot for afternoon drinks with friends; Chef Greg Baker of The Refinery in Seminiole Heights; the ambience at Oxford Exchange feels reminiscent of the pubs and libraries of London.

With one of the prettiest dining rooms in Tampa, ON SWANN is a small plates kind of place, a groaning-boards-of-cheeseand-charcuterie kind of place. a place for sleek craft cocktails, people watching out on the village square, and Sunday brunch with the fam.

This page: On

Swann’s Salmon Rillette

Inset: Chef de cuisine Chris Schelin with executive chef and partner of On Swann Chris Ponte

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TAMPA ( Downtown ) HALL ON FRANKLIN 1701 N. Franklin St. thehallonfranklin.com HEIGHTS PUBLIC MARKET 1910 N. Ola Ave. armatureworks.com/ heights-market

(

Channel District ) S P A R K M A N W H A R F 615 Channelside Drive sparkmanwharf.com

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Seminole Heights )

T H E R E F I N E R Y 5910 N. Florida Ave. thetamparefinery.com E L L A’S A M E R I C A N A F O L K A R T C A F É 5119 N. Nebraska Ave. ellasfolkartcafe.com This page: Mise en

LINDSE Y BATZ/RYAN ARCHAMBAULT, AMY PEZZ

Place has grown into a Tampa institution for power lunches and romantic dinners alike.

prettiest dining rooms in Tampa, it’s a groaningboards-of-cheese-and-charcuterie kind of place, with sleek craft cocktails and people-watching out on the village square—perfect for Sunday brunch with the fam.

No discussion of Tampa dining can omit the formerly grungy, little-bit-of-Brooklyn Seminole Heights neighborhood. The restaurant scene there was jumpstarted by Greg Baker at THE REFINERY, whose menu changes three to four times a week. At the funkadelic ELLA’S AMERICANA FOLK ART CAFÉ, the coin of the realm is Kansas City–style barbecue and crazy Bloody Marys, as well as some of the area’s most coveted vegan dishes. Still, the neighborhood’s shining star these days is ROOSTER & THE TILL, where Ferrell Alvarez and his team concoct cutting-edge (but not expensive) small plates that rely heavily on the bounty of Florida’s fields and waters. And if all of this sounds too ambitious, a beer at THE INDEPENDENT (locals call it “the Indie”), the area’s original craft beer

bar, provides that I’m-on-vacation halo, a feeling reified by a killer grilled cheese with sauteed pears or a piquant pork banh mi.

Perhaps a whirlwind culinary tour of Tampa Bay should end where it all began. Marty Blitz and Maryann Ferenc started their MISE EN PLACE more than 30 years ago, when Tampa and fine dining were nearly oxymorons. Blitz has kept pushing the envelope, exploring trends and putting his own luxurious but playful spins on upscale New American cuisine. The South Tampa neighborhood has grown up around it (hello, gorgeous OXFORD EXCHANGE), but it remains one of the anchors for important business meetings and romantic nights out.

Ferenc, on the board of directors of Visit Florida, the Greater Tampa Chamber of Commerce and other civic and tourism organizations, is among those who might have once been considered overly optimistic about Tampa Bay’s gastronomic moxie. Now, you can go in, clink glasses with her and tell her she was right.

R O O S T E R & T H E T I L L 6500 N. Florida Ave. roosterandthetill.com

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South Tampa )

O N S W A N N 1501 W. Swann Ave. onswann.com M I S E E N P L A C E 442 W. Kennedy Blvd. miseonline.com

ST. PETERSBURG ( Downtown ) MANDARIN HIDE 231 Central Ave. mandarinhide.com IL RITORNO 449 Central Ave. ilritornodowntown.com B R I C K & M O RTA R 539 Central Ave. brickmortar. restaurantsnapshot.com ICHICORO ANE 260 1st Ave. S. ichicoroane.com HYPPO 627 Central Ave. thehyppo.com

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ADVERTORIAL

UNSPOILED FORT PIERCE Discover one of Florida’s last hidden gems with natural and cultural beauty, from the beach to its waterfront downtown. BY CA MILL A HERRER A

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long the 21 miles of sandy shore on Fort Pierce’s Hutchinson Island, find beaches that feel far removed from most of South Florida. It’s a barrier island known for its serene, uncrowded nature; no hovering skyscrapers crowding the skyline here.

What the Fort Pierce beaches do have are an abundance of protected parks, waters to explore and amenities that invite you to stay all day (free admission and parking at all beaches with the exception of state parks).

Surf, paddleboard, kayak, windsurf and snorkel to nearby natural reefs. Picnic on rocky banks, cook burgers on the grill and enjoy one of the many seaside pavilions—or simply park the family on a stretch of unspoiled sand with nothing in sight but dunes, water and sunshine.

FERTILE FISHING GROUND Fort Pierce sits on the boundary of temperate and subtropical ecosystems, making its waters fertile ground for a broad spectrum of fish. Rent a charter or captain your own boat around the waterways of Fort Pierce Inlet and beyond, where anglers hook everything from grouper to snapper to snook. Make a run for the Gulf Stream, just 15 miles offshore and renowned for fighting fish like swordfish, sailfish, mahi-mahi and kingfish. Inshore, the Indian River Lagoon is one of the most biologically diverse estuaries in North America and a haven for hundreds of fish species. Hop in a kayak or charter a guide and spend the day casting for some of the best fish in the world, or simply drop a line from land at the Fort Pierce jetty.

EQUESTRIAN DREAMS Who hasn’t dreamt of riding horses on the beach? Hutchinson Island is one of the few spots in Florida, and the only one in South Florida, where those dreams become a reality.

The family-owned Beach Tours on Horseback has guided visitors on rides along the beach and through local equestrian parks for 25 years.

Spend an hour walking the sand and watching the tide roll in from an elevated perch or soak in Old Florida on a half-day trail ride through St. Lucie County preserves, surrounded by glorious oak trees, vibrant wetlands and lush hammocks.

A DOWNTOWN REVIVAL Don’t let the natural splendor of Fort Pierce keep you from venturing into its historic downtown and experiencing the area’s endearing charm

and rich culture, which has earned it a spot among the top 20 small towns in America. From the Navy SEAL Museum to the Sunrise Theatre and local eateries and breweries like Sailfish Brewing Company and Pierced Ciderworks, downtown Fort Pierce is the perfect destination for the food-loving history buff with a penchant for the arts. Toast happy hour at the 2nd Street Bistro or the newly opened Bottom’s Up Public House, enjoy the lobster mac and cheese at 12A Buoy or tuck in for a steak at The Braford, known for its locally sourced ranch-to-table prime cuts of beef. After the indulgence, stroll through the city’s monthly Art Walk festival or take a self-guided tour of the Mural Trail, a collection of paintings depicting the history of the region.

With something for everyone to love, Fort Pierce remains one of Florida’s last hidden gems.

Trace your path through miles of untouched nature preserves and heritage trails, float down the most biologically diverse estuary in the country, or simply drift away into vacation bliss. Immerse yourself in warm south Florida sunshine, blue skies and a vacation of serenity or adventure. From tides to trails...plan your coastal escape to St. Lucie, Florida today.

To get inspired, go to VisitStLucie.com

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— sunny dispatches from NW FLA —

Panhandling B y P ri ssy E l ro d

walking in memphis A still-healing widow reignites an old flame on a trip that would change her life forever

TRE Y CL ARK

T

o be honest, all I really wanted was to go back to folding laundry on a regular Tuesday afternoon. Back to that day when my life was simple and ordinary.

But as I sat on the ornate sofa inside the lobby of the Peabody in Memphis, Tenn., nothing was ordinary anymore.

Boone, my husband, had been dead 16 months. Don’t you hate the word dead?

Passed? Departed? Vowels and consonants strung together as synonyms for suck.

It was July. The weather was hot, humid and stinking miserable in Memphis. A man I’d come to meet sat opposite me in a fancy, gilded chair and looked nothing like I’d expected.

But then, I really had no idea what to expect.

After all, I hadn’t seen the guy—my college boyfriend—in years.

His hair was still brown but now peppered with gray around his temples. His beard was well groomed and matched his hair color. He looked scholarly.

The top buttons of his untucked shirt were open at the neck. I was relieved to see no gold chains. His two-toned loafers without socks peeked from beneath his black silk trousers.

He had an appealing city look, as though he’d stepped off the cover of GQ magazine. A beautiful smile—the one I remembered from our past—beamed from his tanned face. But it was his ocean-blue eyes that captivated me.

They always had.

Above: Prissy travels from Tallahassee to reunite with her pen pal and old boyfriend for the first time since

college at the Peabody in Memphis, Tenn.

I watched him watching me. He leaned forward, an elbow on each knee, rhythmically tapping his fingertips together, then stilled them in a tepee formation. The heel of his right foot started rocking up and down. I could tell he was nervous. Maybe more than I was.

I studied his oversized hands, remembering how they once felt gliding over my body. In our silence, his smile broadened. We both stared and waited, neither one of us saying a word. I couldn’t. It was so uncharacteristic of me not to be babbling. But seeing him again was surreal.

I picked up the tasseled pillow next to me on the couch and tucked it behind the small of

my back. I cushioned against it and yanked my polka-dot dress over my bony knees. I glanced back up to see his blue eyes boring into me. Oh God! I hoped I looked calmer than my fast-beating heart felt.

A few months earlier, Dale—that’s his name—had sent me a condolence letter. I answered, and our correspondence began.

First a letter or two, then emailing. We would write every few days and share stories of family, friends and work. Soon our email exchange became more frequent. Then it progressed to every day. Before we knew it, we were emailing each other several times a day.

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Panhandling

sunny dispatches from NW FLA

od is an artist, humorist, professional columnist, and the author of Far

the Ordinary. She is a graduate of

ate University and the mother of two

s. She lives in Tallahassee with her Dale, and divides her time between

ainting and chasing her tail.

COVER DESIGN

Katie Campbell

PHOTO Kira Derryberry www.prissyelrod.com

www.prissyblog.com

/prissyelrod

OVER DESIGN PHOTO

/prissy.elrod

Katie Campbell

Katrice Howell

Prissy Elrod’s books shatter the archetype of the model Southern woman as a mother, daughter and wife with her sharp humor, abundant humility and a heavy dose QH (NQTKFC JWOKFKV[ 'ZRGEV VQ NCWIJ ET[ |SWGUVKQP LWUV JQY (CT 1WVUKFG VJG 1TFKPCT[ 2TKUU[ TGUKFGU|CPF RNQV|JQY [QW OKIJV|DGEQOG JGT PGZV|DGUV HTKGPF —JAMIE RICH, EDITOR IN CHIEF, PUBLISHER, FOUNDER OF FLAMINGO MAGAZINE

Through trials, tribulations, and downright humorous moments, Prissy Elrod weaves an irresistible plot touching on the theme QH WPKSWGN[ CPUYGTGF RTC[GTU CPF VJG p[QW ECPoV CNYC[U IGV what you want, but you get what you need� mentality. You’ll laugh, you’ll cry, and most importantly... you’ll want more. —KATE AND KATY RHAMEY, KR SQUARED PRODUCTIONS

90

$24.99 ISBN 978-0-9912420-8-5

52499

9 780991 242085

The young waiter chuckled as he walked away. “What was that?� Dale asked. “A martini.� “Never heard of that kind.�

If he didn’t care what kind of beer he drank, it was no wonder. I started to say so but bit my tongue. As we waited for our drinks, we made nervous conversation. It took me two cocktails to relax. “Hope it’s OK I made reservations for us over there.�

He pointed to the restaurant to our left.

ISBN 978-0-9912420-0-9 Inside I could see waiters in tuxedos scurrying around the French decor. The name above the door read Chez Philippe, a Forbes four-star, AAA four-diamond designation on the glass window. If he wanted to impress me, he did.

Well, aside from ordering that no-name beer.

During our dinner, the conversation was nonstop. On my end anyway. He listened. I was reminded how quiet he was during the years we’d dated. Our romance was germinating over flickering candlelight as we ate filets mignons. I didn’t even like red meat. “Have you ever seen Beale Street?� he asked. “Beale Street? No, where’s that?� I hadn’t left our hotel, so I hadn’t educated myself on Memphis. I’d been too busy readying myself to meet him. He had arrived two days before me, so I assumed he had his bearings and our Above: In her second book, Chasing Ordinary, Elrod activities planned. faces turmoil and feelings of guilt when she finds “Let’s go check it out. Go change into jeans.� love again after the death of her husband Boone.

I was wearing my brown dress with yellow polka dots and was embarrassed to say I hadn’t packed jeans. Truth be told, I didn’t even own After all, it had already been 30 years. them. Well, I did have one pair, but they were The waiter interrupted and placed a bowl of uncomfortable and decorated with rhinestones. nuts on the coffee table.

I had buried them in my closet with all the other “What can I get you guys to drink?� he asked. things I never wore. “I’ll have a cosmopolitan, Ketel One and “I forgot to pack jeans,� I told him.

Grand Marnier, not triple sec, extra cold ‌ We left the restaurant and walked along and bruised, please,â€? I half stuttered, blurting South B.B. King Boulevard toward Handy my order like a crazed alcoholic. I sounded Park. I was way overdressed, but the blues like visiting a bar was something I did often. music coming from all the clubs—not to It wasn’t. The waiter pulled a pencil from his mention, my martini consumption—made me short apron and wrote down my order. care not one iota. “I’ll have a beer ‌ um, any kind is fine,â€?

The smell of barbecue filled the air. My hand Dale said.

I felt a tap on my shoulder and turned around to find his smiling eyes. We stood motionless, his blue eyes melding with mine. A jazz band was playing the Miles Davis version of “Some Day My Prince Will Come.�

We had both slipped down to the mezzanine level early in hopes of spotting the other first, neither of us wanting to wait 30 minutes longer.

FLAMINGOMAG.COM /// S U M M E R 2 0 1 9

ISBN 978-0-9912420-0-9

In Prissy Elrod’s memoir, Far Outside the

Ordinary, she tells of the year she fought to save her husband, Boone, from a terminal disease,

and the two unlikely and unconventional aides who moved in and became part of her once, ordinary family.

Her long, awaited sequel, Chasing Ordinary, picks up a full year after Boone’s death when Dale, her

college sweetheart, appears back in her life and

she learns he is still in love with her. But nothing’s ever that simple. Through her attempts to build a

˜iĂœ Â?ˆvi vÂœĂ€ Â…iĂ€ĂƒiÂ?v >˜` w}Â…ĂŒ ĂŒÂ…Ă€ÂœĂ•}Â… Â…iĂ€ ĂŒĂ€>Փ> from Boone’s last year, Chasing Ordinary tells a story of one chapter ending and another beginning, as well as second chances—at love,

>ĂŒ w˜`ˆ˜} ĂžÂœĂ•Ă€ĂƒiÂ?v] >˜` ĂŒÂ…i ÂˆÂ“ÂŤÂœĂ€ĂŒ>˜Vi Âœv Â˜ÂœĂŒ closing doors, but having the courage to step through them.

PRISSY ELROD

We never once talked on the phone or exchanged pictures. So, technically, one could say we were strangers.

As I read his emails, nostalgia filled my heart. I was transformed into the young girl he once knew. The one who believed—with innocent naivete—bad things happened to others. In those days I was sheltered by a physician father and housewife mother. I believed life was safe, wonderful and certain, as only a tenderfoot would, before the brutality of life knocked me flat.

Thoughts of Dale transported me back to lrod’s memoir, Far Outside the the Ordinary,days when anything seemed possible. And of the year she fought to save her Boone, from a terminal disease,since and the I had no idea how he looked, my brain ly and unconventional aides who moved came part of her once, ordinarypictured family. the boy’s same face, physique and awaited sequel, Chasing Ordinary, picks even though I was communicating ear after Boone’s death when manner, Dale, her eetheart, appears back in her life and she with s still in love with her. But nothing’s ever someone much older. The brain, well, it’s e. Through her attempts to build a new a funny thing. Ă€ĂƒiÂ?v >˜` w}Â…ĂŒ ĂŒÂ…Ă€ÂœĂ•}Â… Â…iĂ€ ĂŒĂ€>Փ> vĂ€ÂœÂ“ ast year, Chasing Ordinary tells a story hapter ending and another beginning, After three months of writing, he suggested Ăƒ ĂƒiVœ˜` VÂ…>˜ViĂƒp>ĂŒ Â?ÂœĂ›i] >ĂŒ w˜`ˆ˜} nd the importance of not closing doors, we meet in person somewhere between our g the courage to step through them. two cities—Indianapolis and Tallahassee—and www.prissyelrod.com try to pick each other from a crowd. It would : be fun, especially since we had no idea what : the other looked like.

A cat-and-mouse game ensued, with clues : : and guesses, teases and temptations. Each day he emailed a hint about where our reunion would take place.

I flew to Memphis from Tallahassee, Florida, to meet the boy I once loved, having no idea what awaited. It didn’t matter. I was stepping out of my comfort zone and taking a chance.

My heart raced as I walked off the elevator and looked around the spacious mezzanine level. It was vacant and quiet. There was not a soul on the floor where I stood. As I leaned over the brass railing, I could see over a hundred people below me.

I watched a flock of ducks, hens and drakes splashing and skimming the fountain water.

I studied the tops of the men’s heads. They were short and tall, skinny and fat, and so many nationalities. No one looked like the boy I remembered.

Experience and compassion you can trust.

was swallowed inside his as we strolled Beale Street. His hands were so much larger than my husband Boone’s. I was comparing, thinking, remembering as he let go and slid his arm around my shoulder, pulling me even closer.

We walked farther, sharing the curtained memories of our years together and stories of the years apart. I was studying his blue eyes, his laugh and his smile in those first hours. He radiated warmth. I observed his mannerisms, his sense of humor and his interest in the most ordinary things. I was so grateful to be attracted to him.

Dale had planned everything with one exception—his rental car. At least that was what he told me as I climbed into a marooncolored Buick sedan.

“This looks like an old person’s car,” I said. The words popped out of my mouth before I could stop them. But I was expecting something sportier, a convertible, anything.

I sat so low I could hardly see out the windshield.

“I forgot to reserve one, so it’s all they had,” he told me.

I was embarrassed for a nanosecond.

“Where to now?” I asked.

“How about an art gallery?” I couldn’t believe he was offering to take me to an art gallery without my asking. Apparently, this man remembered how much I loved art from my emails.

We arrived at the Dixon Gallery & Gardens, the former residence of the Dixon family. Inside we walked around, studying painting after painting, all collections devoted to French and American impressionists and post-impressionists. Two hours passed before I knew it. But I could tell he wasn’t as enthused. I suggested we head out for something different, maybe something he might like more.

“How about Graceland?” he asked.

“Yes, fun, I’d love it,” I said, and we climbed back inside his Buick. But what were we thinking … a Saturday at Graceland? The

line was as twisted as a stick of licorice, and just as we were about to get out and get in that line, it started raining. So instead of Graceland, we spent hours sitting inside the car, talking. When my stomach growled, I realized the day was almost over.

The weekend exceeded our expectations in every way. We backslid to how it was during college, when we couldn’t keep our hands off each other. In those days I always worried what my parents would think. In Memphis I worried what my daughters would think. The circularity of life is downright funny.

Sunday crept in too fast. We were like lovesick teenagers again. We both wanted to stay longer, but it was impossible. I was flying to London two days later, and he had a company to run.

As we sat at the gate, awaiting my boarding call, I was wondering what to say, how to end the weekend. The thousand-mile distance made things impossible. What was I thinking when I agreed to meet this man again?

“We’ll make it work, Prissy,” he said, reading my mind.

“How?” “Just leave it to me, don’t worry about it.”

After the final boarding call, I pulled out my carry-on lever and walked into his arms.

Without a second thought, I stood on my tiptoes and whispered in his ear.

“You should dust off your passport and come to London.” *Excerpted from Elrod’s latest book, Chasing Ordinary. Copyright © 2019 by the author and reprinted with permission of Leather Leaf Publishing

Prissy Elrod is a professional speaker, artist and humorist and the author of Far Outside the Ordinary. She was born and raised in Lake City and now lives in Tallahassee with her husband, Dale. Chasing Ordinary, the sequel to Far Outside the Ordinary, was published in early 2019.

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WADING IN

— fine arts, favor ites, f lings —

ON THE FLY — BIRD’S-EYE VIEW —

Ta m p a ’s l o n g - p r o m i s e d r e s t a u r a n t r e v o l u t i o n h a s a r r i v e d

— FLORIDA WILD —

D eep in the heart of Te n Thous and Is l ands ’ m angr ove e s t uar y

— GROVE STAND —

Niven Patel changed our thinking on Indian food with a garden

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This page:

Model Noah Sanford, with Piper, taking a quiet moment on Ponte Vedra Beach

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ON THE FLY:BIRD’S-EYE VIEW

A WA L K I N G G U I D E TO O U R FAVO R I T E N E I G H B O R H O O DS

Deep in the heartk Tampa

Roam the city’s boroughs from south tampa to Channel District, where you’ll find new food halls, chic shopping, historic treasures and a contagiously cool vibe.

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3.

1. PENELOPE T

This well-curated women’s clothing boutique is a secret weapon for South Tampa’s bestdressed set.

3310 W. Bay to Bay Blvd.

2. BERN’S STEAK HOUSE

Known for its James Beard Award–winning wine cellar and sophisticated menu, this finedining spot is a Tampa icon.

1208 S. Howard Ave.

3. HYDE PARK VILLAGE

Anchored by live oaks and a fountain, the shopping destination spans six blocks with local and national retailers, restaurants and experiences.

1602 W. Snow Circle

4. DOWNTOWN DOGS

Canines and their humans are welcome to shop this doggie boutique in Hyde Park Village stocked with all-natural food, treats, collars, toys and bedding.

1631 W. Snow Circle

9. HENRY B. PLANT MUSEUM

This Tampa Bay hotel turned museum and private university is an homage to education and architecture.

Current exhibits include the celebration of Henry Plant’s birth 200 years ago 401 Kennedy Blvd.

10. MISE EN PLACE

Chef Marty Blitz crafts modern American cuisine with fresh ingredients and by putting “everything in its place,” as the restaurant’s name suggests.

442 W. Kennedy Blvd.

11. OXFORD EXCHANGE Socialize over seasonal fare, coffee and cocktails in a conservatory inspired by historic libraries and shops of London.

420 W. Kennedy Blvd.

12. ARMATURE WORKS

The specialty coffee roaster creates brews and serves madefrom-scratch pastries in the heart of Hyde Park Village.

1605 W. Snow Ave.

This revamped 68,000-square-foot warehouse features Heights Public Market with a collection of eateries and river views.

1910 N. Ola Ave.

6. ON SWANN

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Swanky and welcoming, this popular restaurant in Hyde Park Village serves shareable plates made with ingredients sourced from area farms and fresh bread.

1501 W. Swann Ave.

7. CANVAS FASHION GALLERY

This Hyde Park Village women’s clothing store carries designer brands, shoes and accessories, based on their motto: Fashion is art and you are the canvas.

800 S. Village Circle

8. EDISON

The chef explores new flavors from the ever-changing menu with items like caramelized pork belly and wood-roasted oysters.

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15. SPARKMAN WHARF Play lawn games, listen to live music, sample craft beer and nibble local eats at this open-air waterfront destination.

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PHOTO: XIRENA

www.penelopetboutique.com A CONTEMPORARY BOUTIQUE FOR THE FASHION-FORWARD GAL

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ON THE FLY: FLORIDA WILD P H OTOGR APHS & F IELD NOTES B y C ar lton War d Jr.

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Southern Fringe

T

he first time I went camping in Florida’s Ten Thousand Islands in 2001, I felt a sense of wildness and solitude I had only known from the Serengeti of Tanzania, the Amazon of Peru and the outback of Australia. The landscape was familiar— mangrove islands that I’d experienced in remnant patches as a kid growing up in Clearwater, or as a teenager fishing in Charlotte Harbor. But the scale of the undeveloped nature in the Ten Thousand Islands was like nothing I’d experienced in my home state. Florida’s southern fringe, from Everglades National Park through Ten Thousand Islands National Wildlife Refuge, makes up the largest protected mangrove coastline in the Western NOTES Hemisphere. The context makes the — HABITAT— mangroves even more impressive.

MANGROVE If you are camped on an island ESTUARY like Panther Key and watching the sun set over the Gulf of Mexico, — SEASON — you are surrounded by nature in SUMMER all directions. In front of you and to your left, mangrove islands and — TIME OF DAY— wide-open water reach all the way EVENING to Mexico and Cuba. Behind you, Everglades National Park and the largest sub-tropical wilderness — SUBJECT— TEN THOUSAND reserve in North America stretches ISLANDS dozens of miles east toward Miami.

To your right, the Fakahatchee Strand and Big Cypress National Preserve anchor a wildlife corridor that reaches all the way north to the Everglades headwaters and beyond. A few years ago, I had a chance to return to the Ten Thousand Islands for a photo shoot from a small airplane. My goal was to capture the seemingly infinite labyrinth of the watery landscape and tap into that feeling of awe that had changed my perception of Florida on that first Everglades camping trip 15 years before.

25°51’17.715” N

81°28’51.193” W

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ON THE FLY: GROVE STAND SEASON’S EATINGS

By Laur a R ei l ey • P h o t o g ra p h y b y A n d res A cero

A Chef’s Journey Back to Home A Miami chef ignores the warnings, joins the industry and then revolutionizes what we know of Indian food

This page clockwise:

Patel’s chicken tikka masala, smoked lamb neck curry, far far, chana masala and steamed rice Opposite: Patel’s farm at his home in Homestead

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N

iven Patel is a conundrum. On one hand, his history has elements of a traditional Indian immigrant’s story. And on the other, what he’s managed to do feels new and disruptive.

His family is from Gujarat, India’s westernmost state. In the mid-1970s, along with so many other Indians, they migrated to the United States, shoring up in Valdosta, Georgia.

A family friend had a little hotel. They got into the business, building up properties and going into the convenience store business as well.

(Interestingly, about a third of American motels are owned by folks with the surname Patel— look it up.) With intentions of joining in the huge family affair, Patel trotted off to business school in Jacksonville in 2003 hoping to serve in the operation eventually. And yet, it didn’t feel right.

He decided to go to the Culinary Arts School at The Art Institute of Fort Lauderdale. His parents were distraught. His grandmother said, “What girl is ever going to marry you?” He had to convince six aunts and uncles, but his ace in the hole was that his mother’s sister lived in Fort Lauderdale and would keep an eye on him. He got his bachelor’s degree in culinary arts and found a mentor in chef Dean Max at the Fort Lauderdale Marriott Harbor Beach Resort & Spa. He never thought he’d cook Indian food professionally; that was for family gatherings, the exotic but humble Gujarati dishes synonymous with home.

He worked salad stations and shucked oysters (allergic to shellfish, he told no one).

He went to Italy and worked in Florence for six months. After that, he moved back to Jacksonville to dive into the family business and create restaurants at his relatives’ properties, as his original family plan dictated. Max gummed up the works, convincing Patel to take a sous chef job at Cheeca Lodge & Spa in Islamorada, where he ended up becoming executive chef and staying four years before moving on in 2010 to head the kitchen at another Max venture, The Brasserie in Grand Cayman.

“That’s where I really found my style of cooking. It was modern American food, but

Smoked Lamb Neck Curry

BRAISE:

S e rv e s 4

1/2

2 tablespoons coriander seeds 1 tablespoon fennel seeds 1 nutmeg, crushed 1 cinnamon stick 1 teaspoon whole cloves 1 teaspoon black peppercorns 4 pods green cardamom 1 quart water 1/4 cup sugar 1/2 cup kosher salt 1 quart ice 2 lamb necks or 4 lamb shanks

cup chickpeas 4 tablespoons vegetable oil 1 cinnamon stick 1 star anise 2 green cardamom pods 1 bay leaf 1 white onion, diced 1 teaspoon garlic, chopped 2 teaspoons ginger, chopped 1 teaspoon ground cumin 1 teaspoon mild Kashmiri chili powder 1 teaspoon turmeric 1 quart fresh tomatoes, pureed 3 quarts water 1/4 cup jaggery

PREPARATION: Toast spices in a large saucepan. Once spices are fragrant, deglaze pan with 1 quart water. Add sugar and salt. Once sugar and salt dissolve, transfer liquid to a large container with ice. Add necks to the solution and ensure they are fully submerged. Transfer container to the refrigerator and brine for 72 hours. After brining, place necks on a wire rack set in a sheet pan and allow to dry in the refrigerator for 2 days. After air drying, smoke necks with apple wood at 230 degrees for 2 hours.

Now you’re ready to braise.

PREPARATION: Soak chickpeas overnight, drain and set aside. Heat oven to 325 degrees. In a saucepan, heat oil over medium high heat until shimmering. Add cinnamon, star anise, cardamom and bay leaf, and cook for a few seconds, taking care not to burn spices. Add onion and cook until golden brown. Add garlic and ginger and cook until fragrant. Add cumin, Kashmiri chili and turmeric. Add tomato, water and jaggery. Bring to a simmer. Add chickpeas and smoked lamb. Cover and braise in oven for 3 hours, or until tender.

BRINE

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ON THE FLY: GROVE STAND SEASON’S EATINGS

Above: At Ghee, Niven Patel specializes in dishes made with the fruits and vegetables he grows himself. Opposite: Eggplant with potatoes and heirloom tomatoes

invited friends over for a traditional Gujarati we had our own farm and two of our own meal—roti; khichdi made of yellow mung fishing boats. To this day I cannot find the beans and basmati rice; yogurt quality of fish that we had soup with curry leaves, black there—wahoo, yellowfin mustard seed and chickpea flour; tuna, different varieties of and baby eggplant with potatoes amazing snapper, like black GHEE INDIAN KITCHEN and tomatoes. snapper from 1,200 feet of — LOCATION — “My friends were like, ‘What water. The owners were 100 DOWNTOWN DADELAND is this?’ I went to Michael percent all-in. I immersed 8965 SW 72ND PLACE MIAMI [Schwartz] and said I wanted to myself in Bahamian food and — HOURS — do an Indian restaurant.” made it my personal goal TUES.–SAT. 11:30 A.M.–2:00 P.M. The result, opened in May to embrace all the beauty TUES.–THURS. 5:00 P.M.–10:00 P.M. FRI.–SAT. 5:00 P.M.–11:00 P.M. 2017, was Ghee Indian Kitchen around us.” in Dadeland. A second location At this point Patel’s wife opened in Miami’s Design Shivani (see, his grandmother — LOCATION — District at the end of 2017. It isn’t right about everything) DESIGN DISTRICT 3620 NE 2ND AVE. was instantly something new was in nursing school stateside MIAMI and exciting, and Patel garnered and was hoping he’d come — HOURS — “rising star” accolades from join her. He contacted Miami’s TUES.–SAT. 11:30 A.M.–2:00 P.M. TUES.–THURS. 5:00 P.M.–10:00 P.M. various organizations and a famed Michael Schwartz, FRI.–SAT: 5:00 P.M.–11:00 P.M. coveted spot as a 2019 James who in 2014 gave him a chef gheemiami.com Beard Award semifinalist for de cuisine job at Michael’s best chef in the South.

Genuine Food & Drink, where “People think we’re fusion Patel stayed for 3 1/2 years. cuisine because we’re using a lot Still, no Indian food at of ingredients that normal Indian restaurants work. Instead, he started a backyard farm don’t have. But it’s dishes I had as a kid. at his house in Homestead and one night

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People from Gujarat say it brings them back to their childhoods. I do that same eggplant dish I did for my friends.”

The look of the restaurant doesn’t say “Indian”: It’s industrial chic, spare and edgy, with warmth delivered by rows of jars crammed with beans and pickles and spices. And with Patel’s own two-acre working farm supplying an array of exotic produce, it has seriously ambitious farmto-table aims. And there’s more. Patel is personally responsible for supporting a whole village near Bardoli in Gujarat, where the green millet he cooks with in his restaurant is produced.

“They burn wood and make hot ash and put huge stalks of millet to dry. They put the stalks in bags, then harvest all the kernels, then sift out the husks. It’s couscous-like and pops in your mouth like caviar. We saute it in olive oil, mix it with cilantro chutney and housemade yogurt with crispy chickpeas on top. It’s very traditional to that area.”

Traditional in Gujarat, but in the context of Miami’s restaurant scene, it’s something approaching revolutionary.

Eggplant with Potatoes and Heirloom Tomatoes S e rv e s 6 3 Japanese eggplants (see note) 2 tablespoons oil 1 teaspoon black mustard seeds 1 pinch fenugreek 1 heirloom tomato, sliced 1/4 teaspoon hing 1/2 pound Yukon Gold potatoes, cut into quarters 1 teaspoon garlic, minced 2 teaspoons ginger, minced 2 teaspoons green chili 1 teaspoon ground cumin 1 teaspoon ground coriander 1/2 teaspoon turmeric 1 teaspoon mild chili 1 teaspoon paprika 2 teaspoons kosher salt 2 teaspoons jaggery 1 teaspoon garam masala Cilantro (garnish) PREPARATION: Halve Japanese eggplants and cut into 1-inch-thick slices. Heat oil over medium high heat until shimmering. Add black mustard seeds and fenugreek and cook for a few seconds, taking care not to burn the spices. Add hing, eggplant, potato, garlic, ginger and green chili. Cook until eggplant and potato begin to soften.

Add cumin, coriander, turmeric, mild chili, paprika, salt, jaggery and garam masala and stir to combine. Bring to a simmer, cover and cook for 15 minutes, or until potatoes are tender. Add tomatoes and simmer for 5 minutes. Garnish with chopped cilantro and serve.

NOTE: An equivalent amount of regular eggplant can be substituted. If you choose to do so, make sure to peel it before cooking.

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ON THE FLY:THE ROOST RE AL ESTATE DOLLARS & SENSE B y M eg a n M a ssi o n

Well-Healed Homes

Nurture a positive mind, body and spirit with impeccable design, sustainable technology and luxurious wellness features

Jacksonville

NEAL SMITH EC T V PHOTOGR APHY

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his carefully appointed midcentury modern treasure is truly a one-of-a-kind home for the athlete with an artistic soul. The large storefront windows, 10-foot Fleetwood sliding doors and open floor plan bring the outside in with gorgeous views of the St. Johns River from every room in the house. Contemporary clean lines and pops of color throughout stay true to its midcentury modern style. For the fitness-focused lifestyle, the three-story, fully equipped gym includes a Pilates reformer, treadmill, spin bike, weights, an underground squash court and even a locker room. The backyard opens up to an entertainment zone with wide open vistas of the Jacksonville skyline, a lounging deck, a dock and a serene infinity pool.

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ON THE FLY:THE ROOST RE AL ESTATE DOLLARS & SENSE

Clearwater

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COURTESY OF R AFAL WAZIO/CARY JOHN

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he ultimate in contemporary luxury for the perfectionist at heart, the 11,319-square-foot estate is situated on Clearwater Harbor. Its timeless design and architecture include marble floors throughout, trayed ceilings, a grand staircase made of glass and floor-to-ceiling windows . The many recreational and sporting highlights of the property include two swimming pools, two hot tubs, a tennis court and a gym, making it impossible not to stay active and feel restored all summer long. Boaters can take advantage of the bay, as the dock is equipped with a boat slip and lift. Entertain guests with an inhome movie theater, two kitchens, billiard room, wine room, picnic area and lounge deck with expansive views of the harbor.

288 Spottis Woode Court Clearwater $7,500,000

ON THE FLY:THE ROOST RE AL ESTATE DOLLARS & SENSE

MIami

COURTESY OF SABAL DEVELOPMENT

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erched on Biscayne Bay and nestled on a quiet cul-de-sac in Miami’s historic community of Belle Mead, the 7,171-square-foot home features the latest in smart home technology. Designed by French architecture agency Togu, the home’s modern lines and floor-to-ceiling windows, along with a front door made entirely of glass, combine to create a contemporary European oasis in the heart of Miami. Seventy-five feet of bay frontage lends to panoramic views of Miami Beach and downtown Miami.

Sustainable utility solutions from Savant and high-efficiency appliances from Miele reduce energy consumption, while smart home technology provides peace of mind with remote control lighting, temperature control, entertainment and security through an app on a watch or phone. The clean living lifestyle continues with a pool and private dock, constructed of Brazilian ipe wood, offering the perfect outdoor escape to practice yoga or go for a swim.

7311 Belle Meade Island Drive Miami $7,950,000

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TRUE TO YOUR NATURE Plan a getaway suited to your curious side.

www.VisitFlagler.com

ON THE FLY:THE TIDE ROAD TR IP–WORTHY EVENTS (NORTH) SCALLOP SEASON

NORTH FLORIDA GULF COAST

June 15–SEPT. 24

Dive for Florida “Easter eggs” (aka Florida bay scallops) in the grass flats of the Fenholloway River, Suwannee River or Steinhatchee River. To collect your daily limit (2 gallons whole scallops in the shell per person), all you need is a fishing license, a snorkel and a dive flag. Season dates vary by county. myfwc.com

EMERALD COAST BLUE MARLIN CLASSIC MIRAMAR BEACH

June 19–23

This fishing tournament awards $2 million in prizes to anglers who catch the heaviest blue marlin. Festivities include exciting weigh-ins, live entertainment, food and fireworks at Baytowne Marina. fishebc.com

SEASIDE STARS AND STRIPES SEASIDE

July 3–4 Celebrate America to the soundtrack of the Pensacola Symphony Orchestra on July 3 followed by the annual Independence Day parade, a concert by The Victory Belles and fireworks over the Gulf of Mexico on the Fourth. sowal.com

JACKSONVILLE

APRIL 4—SEPT. 2 Hungry for baseball? Join Minor League Baseball’s crustacean nation and root for the Jumbo Shrimp at the Baseball Grounds of Jacksonville. Nearly every home game unfolds with a fun-loving theme or promotion. Roll your windows down and cruise into the stadium to experience the world’s largest drive-thru in honor of National Drive Thru Day, bust out your chopsticks for the 4,000th anniversary of ramen noodles or pay homage to Florida Man by breaking a weird Florida law each inning of the game. Other themed game nights throughout the season include Canines and Crustaceans Dog Days, where pups accompany their owners, and a Say Yes to the Dress night in which fans race across the field wearing wedding gowns. Wash down your cocktail sauce with dollar beers on Thirsty Thursdays, enjoy postgame fireworks on Fridays and take home free swag on Saturdays. Don’t leave without snapping a photo with the team’s mascot, Scampi. milb.com/jacksonville

PENSACOLA BEACH AIR SHOW

SWAMP STOMP

July 13

July 13

P E N S A C O LA

EDWINE PIERRE LOUIS

JACKSONVILLE JUMBO SHRIMP GAMES

The Blue Angels showcase six F-18 Super Hornets in a 45-minute aerobatic routine over the Gulf. Other performances include stunt planes, vintage World War II Stearmans and a helicopter demonstration. visitpensacola.com

TA L LA H A S S E E

This Americana music festival unfolds under a canopy of oak trees at the Tallahassee Museum. A signature event for the Big Bend region, the concert brings together folk, blues and acoustic musicians. tallahasseemuseum.org

GREATER JACKSONVILLE KINGFISH TOURNAMENT

GULF COAST JAM

JACKSONVILLE

July 15–20

AUG. 30–SEPT. 1

Land the largest kingfish for a chance to win bragging rights and cash prizes. This annual event includes entertainment, a junior offshore tournament and a redfish tournament. kingfishtournament.com

Country legends Tim McGraw, Jason Aldean and Kid Rock headline this music festival at Frank Brown Park over Labor Day weekend. A portion of proceeds from every ticket sold will benefit Hurricane Michael relief for the Panhandle. gulfcoastjam.com

PA N A M A C I T Y

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ON THE FLY:THE TIDE ROAD TR IP–WORTHY EVENTS (C E N T RA L ) BODY MIND SPIRIT EXPO TA M PA

June 22–23 Become more mindful while learning about holistic medicine and alternative healing through experiences such as guided meditations and seminars about crystal healing, the science behind yoga and the benefits of CBD extract. bmse.net

STETSON LEGACY WEEK D E LA N D

July 13–20

APOLLO 11 HISTORIC LAUNCH FLASHBACK, 50 YEARS LATER

FLORIDA PRIZE IN CONTEMPORARY ART EXHIBITION O R LA N D O May 31–AUG. 18

M E R R I T T I S LA N D

July 16

The Orlando Museum of Art lauds 10 of the most progressive visual artists working in the state in a showcase of installations that embody Florida’s vibrant culture through various mediums including sculpture, painting and photography. The annual exhibition, now in its sixth year, features both up-and-coming and established artists, and the winner receives a $20,000 prize. This year’s finalists are Amer Kobaslija (whose work Lowe’s Tubes, Ichetucknee is pictured above), Robert Aiosa, Joe Fig, Lilian Garcia-Roig, Lola Gomez, Pepe Mar, Anja Marais, Edison Peñafiel, Vickie Pierre and Sri Prabha. Each artist will be represented by a recent or site-specific body of work that best reflects their overall vision, style and methods. The Florida Prize winner will be announced at the opening night preview party on May 31. Local chefs will contribute culinary creations with dishes inspired by the Florida Prize contenders’ works during the VIP hour from 6 to 7 p.m. omart.org

OLD SALT LADIES FISHING TOURNAMENT

MASCOT GAMES

ST. PETE PRIDE WEEK

MADEIRA BEACH

June 20 and 22

June 21–22

June 21–23

Ladies compete for cash prizes and the Master Angler title, casting for red grouper, gag grouper, snapper, kingfish, sea trout, redfish, snook, flounder and sheepshead. oldsaltfishing.org

About 30 MLB, NFL, NBA, NHL and Arena Football League mascots face off in gladiator style games. Fans mingle and take pictures with their favorite furry cheerleaders. Proceeds will benefit New Hope for Kids. mascotgames.org

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O R LA N D O

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The Kennedy Space Center commemorates the 50th anniversary of the historic Apollo 11 mission by recreating the groundbreaking launch, which carried astronauts Neil Armstrong, Buzz Aldrin and Michael Collins on a mission to the moon. Other events like the One Giant Leap Celebration and the Welcome Home Apollo 11 Celebration will take place throughout the following days. kennedyspacecenter.com

HARVEST GRAPE STOMP CLERMONT

ST. PETERSBURG

AUG. 17–18

Celebrate the LGBTQ community at one of the state’s largest pride events, featuring the SP2 concert, a parade along downtown St. Pete’s Bayshore Drive and a festival covering Central Avenue’s Grand Central District. stpetepride.com

As they gear up for this year’s harvest, Lakeridge Winery prepares to celebrate the grape stomp tradition dating back 25 years. Take off your shoes and compete for prizes by stomping vats of fine-ripened grapes— and, of course, imbibe the latest vintage. lakeridgewinery.com

AMER KOBAŠLIJA , LOWE’S TUBES (DETAIL), 2018, OIL ON MYL ARMOUNTED ON PANEL, 96X118 IN. (TRIPT YCH,) © AMER KOBAŠLIJA

Tip a hat to John B. Stetson, also known as Florida’s first “snowbird.”

Family heirlooms and films of the famous hatmaker will be on display at the Stetson Mansion. visitwestvolusia.com

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Northeast Florida Golf PACKAGE Northeast Florida Golf Experience Package – Starting at $418 Per Person, Per Night We invite you to visit TPC Sawgrass, host of THE PLAYERS Championship, where you’ll play in the footsteps of some of golf’s greatest champions. Experience all that North Florida has to offer – great weather, relaxing days on the beach, and a shot at one of the most famous holes in golf!

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ON THE FLY:THE TIDE ROAD TR IP–WORTHY EVENTS (SOUTH) KEY LIME FESTIVAL KEY WEST

July 4–7

Defy gravity at the key lime pie drop, throw back beverages at the key lime cocktail sip and stroll, and devour an entire 9-inch dessert at the World Key Lime Pie Eating Championship. keylimefestival.com

SARASOTA POWERBOAT GRAND PRIX FESTIVAL S A R A S O TA

July 5–7

Rub fenders with the who’s who of powerboat racing from around the world at the Boats on Main block party. Then watch more than 30 teams race at speeds exceeding 100 mph in the waters off Lido Beach. sarasotapowerboatgrandprix.org

HEMINGWAY DAYS

MANGO AND TROPICAL FRUIT FESTIVAL

July 16–21

July 13–14

CORAL GABLES

Only in Key West will you find hundreds of rotund white men with white hair and white beards parading down Duval Street in cable-knit sweaters, riding wooden cattle for a chance to win a bust of their hero, Ernest Hemingway, and be crowned the festival’s Papa. Hemingway enthusiasts descend on the famed Sloppy Joe’s Bar for the annual look-alike contest. There’s a running of the bulls reenactment in honor of the late author’s novel The Sun Also Rises. Other events include poetry readings, symposium presentations, a film screening, running and paddleboard races and a street fair. Hemingway lived in Key West during the 1930s, and the home in which he wrote Death in the Afternoon and To Have and Have Not stands today as a museum on Whitehead Street. This six-day extravaganza takes place during Hemingway’s birthday week and culminates with a party on the author’s birthday, July 21. fla-keys.com

SARASOTA MUSIC FESTIVAL S A R A S O TA

June 1–22 The three-week classical music celebration is marked by performances from the world’s best professional and student musicians. Classical violin, cello and piano players preform alongside acts like the Pacifica Quartet and the Montrose Trio. sarasotaorchestra.org

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VERO BEACH WINE AND FILM FESTIVAL

AMERICAN BLACK FILM FESTIVAL

June 6–9

June 12–16

VERO BEACH

MIAMI BEACH

There’s something to sip Thousands of filmgoers and see for everyone, with convene for one of the nation’s screenings of more than 75 largest black film and television independent films by some events, known for premiering of the industry’s most lauded early work of A-listers like directors and food by celebrity Kevin Hart. See screenings, chef Norman Van Aken. hear celebrity talks and attend vbwff.com parties. abff.com

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Go fruity for hundreds of rare tropical mango species. See the world’s largest mango and tropical fruit collections. Enjoy mango tasting and cooking workshops or buy a fruit tree to take home. fairchildgarden.org

HEMINGWAY 5K SUNSET RUN & PADDLEBOARD RACE KEY WEST

July 20

Honor Ernest Hemingway’s athletic side by standup paddling or running from Key West’s Southernmost Point all around the historic city.

Each race concludes, and rightly so, with awards and libations. keywesthalfmarathon.com

INTERNATIONAL BALLET FESTIVAL MIAMI BEACH

July 27–AUG. 18 The world’s most prestigious ballet companies and dancers convene for three weeks of galas featuring

ANDY NEWMAN/FLORIDA KE YS NEWS BUREAU, COURTESY FAIRCHILD TROPICAL BOTANIC GARDEN

KEY WEST

Tourists turn to it. Locals live by it.

young artists, contemporary dance companies, and classical and neoclassical ballet performances. internationalballetfestival.org

JUPITER MEDICAL CENTER LOGGERHEAD TRIATHLON JUPITER

AUG. 3

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Swim 0.375 miles in the ocean, bike 13 miles and run 3.1 miles along the ocean in one of the state’s longest-running triathlons. More than 600 athletes make the pilgrimage to Jupiter in what has become a must-do event in the Southeast. pbnchamber.com

KEY WEST LOBSTERFEST KEY WEST

Follow us @theFlamingoMag

AUG. 8–11

Bring a bib and dig into sweet and tender Florida lobster, served boiled or steamed at the iconic street fair. Other activities include a Reef & Rita’s snorkel trip and First Flight Island Restaurant & Brewery’s lobster brunch. keywestlobsterfest.com

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FLORIDIANA ALL THINGS VINTAGE

This page: Cover

model Noah Sanford with retrievers Piper and Star

A s t o l d t o E ri c B a rt o n

Inset: Carolyn and

Cannon Gaskin (and their dog River) in their 1967 Toyota FJ40

1967 Road Hound

O

n Superbowl Sunday a couple years ago, my wife Carolyn and I were out for a ride in my 1967 Toyota FJ40 Land Cruiser when the fuel line broke. The gas ignited on the exhaust headers. I calmly looked over at Carolyn, who was holding her parent’s yorkie, and said, “Hey, y’all need to get out. The truck is on fire.”

Carolyn went for help while I exhausted my extinguisher, only to have the fire keep reigniting. Just as I figured the whole truck was going to burn up, the coolant line exploded and extinguished the flames. I left the paint bubbled on the hood. It gives the truck character.

In 2008, I posted photos of it on an Internet forum and got an email from Chris

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Milewski, who had the FJ willed to him in 1992 by his grandfather. When Chris was 14, he and his father drove the truck from eastern Washington to Anchorage. They made lots of improvements, including a Chevrolet 350 smallblock V8 and a lift kit. Chris was in college when he sold it in 2001 to a guy in Jacksonville.

My father purchased it a year later, when I was 14. Throughout high school, I drove the FJ to school, a friend’s farm and the Lawtey Mud Bog. I still remember being stuck in the middle of the pit and some guy yelling: “Let me buy it before you break it!”

Like Chris, I brought the FJ to college and took the hard top off as soon as I got to Wake Forest. It has never been back on since. It’s been a great truck for the past 17 years, with a few minor setbacks. In addition to the fire,

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one year I was bringing a Korean foreign exchange student home for Thanksgiving dinner when I lost the brakes. We added new discs after that. The truck has become more of a Jacksonville “street queen” recently, but there is nothing like cruising around in the open air. —CG

MARY BETH KOETH, COURTESY OF CANNON GASKIN

Cannon Gaskin of Jacksonville shares memories (and mishaps) of his old cruiser

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