NO.15
FALL/WINTER 2020
THE FREE FORM ISSUE
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STAFF CREDITS EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
BEAUTY EDITOR
NISHITA NAGA
CELIA PATTERSON
CREATIVE DIRECTOR
CULTURE EDITOR
BAWILA IDRIS
MARINA VERGARA
MANAGING EDITOR
ASSISTANT CULTURE EDITOR
EMMA KOLAKOWSKI
JACLYN SKRELA
SOCIAL MEDIA EDITOR
OPINIONS EDITOR
CHLOË FELOPULOS
ALANA RAMSAMMY
ASSISTANT SOCIAL MEDIA EDITOR VICKY CARMENATE
ASSISTANT OPINIONS EDITOR SYDNEY CHAMPAGNE
FASHION EDITOR
LAYOUT TEAM
SHAYLAH LLOYD
CHRISTIANA IM, RUBY LEE, TREY SULLIVAN, KATHRYN SCHULTE
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2020
LETTER FROM THE EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Sometimes I think about people telling me that hard times bring about good change. I still believe that now. I believe that when I scream so loud I lose my voice something better will come out of it. Many times, I’ve found that believing this is easier when we are actively fighting, but recently I am not entirely sure that is true. This year showed me that there is a whole mass of people willing to fight for equity, but there is also a significant portion of the world that does not intend to do the same.
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FALL / WINTER
The funny part is that finding positive change is a meandering process. I try and find peace in the midst of chaos, but many times I discover myself wading through more chaos in order to do so. Perhaps that’s what Free Form became. Free Form is a visual representation of the collective meandering we might need to do to find positivity and peace while continuing to fight for ourselves. I think part of this is attempting to define this forum for ourselves. Releasing this theme is equivalent to a quiet, reflective moment, and that is something we need after the intense tumult that we have been through in the past year. I want everyone to find themselves to some extent in FLASH. Creativity is a powerful way to reflect – and even speak out. Free Form is FLASH forcing you, the audience, to address what you might think FLASH is. Are we a fashion magazine? Culture? I always thought of FLASH as an unlabelled creative space, a forum to visually amplify the thoughts and experiences of its constituents. For me, the limits to FLASH are endless. To make myself clear, we are still amplifying voices, and we are still fighting for a more equitable world. At the same time, I think it is to find peace and beauty in this so we are not screaming aimlessly when our voices feel like they are giving out. FLASH is for the ambitious. If you are looking to define yourself on your own terms then FLASH is where you can do it. Take part in our collective meandering. There is no limit to what we can become and what we can accomplish as long as people are willing to express themselves authentically. With Love, Your Editor
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44 U N C R E D I T E D L AYO U T S AND GRAPHICS WERE DONE BY THE CREATIVE DIRECTOR
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PHOTOS BY: RUBY LEE
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Recently I have been thinking about the significance of
on this planet and sells a notion of separatism and individualism that
feeling all of our emotions in their entirety, instead of ignoring or
allows for the creation of hierarchy and the ability to hurt others that
diminishing what comes up within our internal landscapes. While
we deem to be “inferior” to ourselves. The harm of this is even com-
feeling what may appear to be simple and quite self-explanatory, it
pounded by how we hurt ourselves when we internalize the ways we
can be relatively easy to go unnoticed when we live under systems
are told we are “less than”, and further subjugate ourselves to those
that benefit from us avoiding our emotions. With that in mind, let-
false notions throughout our lives.
ting ourselves experience all of our emotions fully can actually be far more important and essential than we might originally believe. Such a process can actually allow us to better honor ourselves and to disentangle from the beliefs ingrained in us by external forces.
Permitting ourselves to feel the full breadth of our emotions is beneficial in part because it allows us to get at the core of who we are, beyond what we have been conditioned to believe about ourselves and our place in the world. Doing so is an act of reclaiming our au-
Throughout our lives, we are force fed ideas of what kind of emotions
tonomy and our power from our families, friends, culture, society, and
we are allowed to have, and when we are allowed to have them. Much
anyone and everything that is not us and has tried to tell us who or
of this process begins when we are children. For instance, when
what we are and should do/be. This process can begin with inves-
young children are throwing a tantrum, they are often automatically
tigating our emotions and unlearning the ways that we have been
punished, instead of being asked why they are upset or angry in the
taught to view and react to them. I don’t have to subscribe to ideas
first place. This is a sign from the get go that certain feelings are
that sadness and anger are inherently bad or negative, that anxiety is
“bad”, i.e. worthy of punishment, while others are “good” and do not
shameful, that I should hold in my tears, or that I shouldn’t be hurt by
warrant further action. According to our societal notions, it is “bad”
past traumas because they “weren’t a big deal”, and neither do you,
to be angry, upset, worried, hurt, lonely, confused, and so on. These
or anyone else for that matter. I can even take this work a step further
are considered our “negative” emotions. Even our “good” emotions
and apply it to all aspects of myself and my life. I can ask myself:
can easily be made bad. Take the example of a child that’s bubbling
what are the things I believe about myself, those around me, and the
with happiness or excitement, but is shut down or reprimanded and
world itself? Where did those beliefs come from? Who (or what) are
told to “calm down” or “be quiet.” Our emotions do not have any pre-
these beliefs serving? Do I actually agree with them? If not, how can
determined worth, they are not inherently positive or negative, bad or
I actively work to shift those beliefs to make them resonate? With
good. They just are. Yet, we are forced to monitor our own emotions,
these questions, and with what I am arguing here as a whole, I am not
and make ourselves feel guilty for feeling the “wrong” thing at the
only calling for your full depth of feeling, but for an attitude of skepti-
“wrong” time throughout our entire lives. This process creates forms
cism and awareness by which we can recognize what is helping us in
of self-repression, self-shame, and even self-punishment, that haunt
order to nurture those things, and identify what is harming us so we
us in ways that we are often not even aware of.
can process it and eventually discard it.
Reading Sister Outsider by Audre Lorde has been one thing that has
In many ways, it is a privilege to be able to look inwards, to contem-
helped me better understand the necessity of our full depth in feel-
plate and reckon with one’s internal state, when many are concerned
ing. In “Uses of the Erotic: The Erotic as Power,” Lorde writes, “for as
for their daily survival, or simply do not have access to the time or
we begin to recognize our deepest feelings, we begin to give up, of
resources that allow for such work. That being said, I argue that such
necessity, being satisfied with suffering and self-negation, and with
a process is paramount for all of those who are able to take part in it.
the numbness which so often seems like their only alternative in our
This is because letting ourselves embrace our feelings and encounter
society.” The “erotic” that Lorde is championing in her essay refers
the experiences to which they relate permits us to respect ourselves
to our innate wisdom, emotion, and power, among other things, and
in our entirety, and work towards getting closer to the power that lies
it is what we have the opportunity to discover when we tap into and
within us. When we are able to root out the truth, of ourselves and of
acknowledge our “deepest feelings.” When we diminish, ignore, or
others, from the entanglement of ideas planted within us by external
avoid these feelings we are preventing ourselves from recognizing
forces, we are able to discern what we believe to be genuine, and are
our inherent worth and goodness. That is why it has been a tool
able to rid ourselves of that which we find false and/or harmful. While
for those in power to keep us as a society ignorant of our feelings.
doing this can be a long, and even challenging, journey, perhaps you
Dismissing these feelings erases our inherent connection as beings
can begin to embark on it by feeling all it is that you have to feel.
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Hello My Name Is?
Words by: Marina Vergara Illustrations by: Christiana Im Photos by: Ruby Lee
Gazing into the looking glass, (time has long since melted away) I study the person staring back at me. Trying to uncover, digging deep at the skin with a shovel, Hunting for whatever truths my mind fails to see. I see a round face framed by faded purple hair, Cut short to an overgrown buzz, tended to like a wilted orchid. I see mascara-smudged eyes, piercings to hide behind, And lips that crave to be loved. I pick up the phone and dial the number I know all too well.
The line goes dead. A monotonous beep fills the perpetual silence. The quotidian conversation ends once more, A never-ending exercise, a game of “who are you” No. That’s not good enough, Who are you really? I hear the voice say. I thought I had the answer, Time and time before, But everytime I fill out the sticker, the box, the label I do it in Sharpie. Doesn’t wash out. I have to scribble over the shaky lettering, And start anew. (I hope this time I’m right.) A continual guessing game of identity, Go fish, draw a card, Maybe this time I’ll play my hand like I’m supposed to. Too bad I don’t know (and don’t follow) the rules.
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“Hello my name is…” “What’s that now?” “Marina.” “Marina? Who’s that now?” “Hello my name is…” “What’s that––” “Bisexual.” “Okay.” “Hello my name is…” “What’s––” “Lesbian.” “Okay.” “Hello my name is…” “W––” “Queer?” “Okay.” “Hello my name is?” “Hello?”
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Queer
is what I
drew from the deck And, in this present moment, it’s what feels alright. Queen? King? Maybe somewhere in between? It’s hard to tell when the mirror is cloudy, When the person behind the smoke doesn’t want to be seen. But I have found at last, After wiping away the fog, The perfect combination of specificity and fluidity, D. all of the above. I know I exist somewhere outside of the box of heteronormativity, I like to color far over the lines, Using the whole crayon box, To paint the face reflected back at me. I have learned to like the person I see, To be friends with a face of uncertainty, Who knows where this next path will lead?
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Imprisoned in Beauty: The Magnetism of Liza Lou’s Impractical Kitchen Words by: Emilia Figueroa-Valik
Graphic by: Kathryn Schulte
Last January, before such pleasures were taken away an ordinary kitchen has bits of food lodged under
from us, I visited The Whitney Museum of American Art. I found the stove burners, a stained countertop, maybe myself walking through Making Knowing: Craft in Art, 1950-2019, a few vegetables rotting in the fridge. However, an exhibition exploring craftwork techniques such as weaving, pot- Lou’s kitchen is flawless, uninviting, and tery, clay, and textiles. As I walked through the exhibit, wide-eyed untouchable. Her ability to transform a stuffed animals pinned to a quilt stared me down. A pile of black snippet of daily life into an alternate, cord hopelessly tangled in a mass on the floor felt menacing. The uninhabitable reality, elevates the banal proximity of the objects, in addition to the way they pulsated with into a resplendent work of art. life, gave the impression that at any moment something would slither over and touch me. My uneasiness dissipated, however, Lou asserts Kitchen, “argues for the dignity of when I laid eyes upon the pristine, sterilized sanctuary that is Liza labor.” But in spite of her apparent celebration Lou’s Kitchen.
of a kitchen’s matriarchal significance, many of the piece’s more subtle details seemingly cater
The piece is a window into an unnamed woman’s life-- a kitchen to some invisible male presence. For example, a built to scale, complete with a table, chairs, and appliances. Lou fresh pie sits on the oven rack while nude pin-up spent five years building the work; after constructing a given object girls covertly line the oven’s interior. A six pack of using papier-mâché, Lou would painstakingly cover its exterior with Budweiser rests on the counter. In accordance tiny glass beads, one bead at a time, with a pair of tweezers. From with this seemingly reductive representation the immaculate replication of a crinkled Lays chip bag to the soapy of female life, the newspaper on the kitchen waves engulfing dishes piled high in the sink, millions of beads table shows a headline declaring “Housewife glitter in perfect stillness.
Beads the World!” Similarly, a book containing a fragment from an Emily Dickinson poem
The first time I saw Kitchen, I believed Lou was exalting femininity, sardonically reads, “She rose to his requirements, dropped specifically aspects of femininity regarded as uninspiring. Lou the playthings of her life to take on the honourable work of employs beadwork, an artform dominated by females, which is woman and wife.” Kitchen’s opposing dynamics illustrate often derided as a medium solely for creating frivolous trinkets. the multifaceted nature of femininity. Lou contends Kitchen defeats this preconceived notion of feminine art in its femininity and its traditional link to domesticity is solemnity –-the piece feels untouchable, even sacred, like the beautiful and worthy of portrayal while demanding women stained glass windows of a cathedral. Lou’s subject matter is and our passions be taken seriously; we exist independently equally relevant. Kitchens were once the epicenter of female life, from our role as housewife or mother. After all, the kitchen is that place where our mothers and grandmothers, willingly and only one room of an entire unseen house. begrudgingly, spent countless hours toiling to feed their families. That once unremarkable place is now stranded in the middle of a While Lou intentionally draws on gender norms as a means to fine art exhibition. question and subvert them, Kitchen also hints at the sinister side of femininity. Unlike the other pieces in the exhibit, in Lou toys with the significance of a kitchen and its traditionally which there is ample room to circle around and observe them feminine connotations. On the one hand, Lou ennobles the from all vantage points, homemaker role by uncovering its beauty. We tend to distinguish art from the unremarkable based on the criterion of accessibility:
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brutal gang rape of Jyoti Singh seven years ago. India has the
window to observe its interior. Viewers, of course, are not allowed inside
highest rate of violence against women in the world, with up
Kitchen; one misstep and thousands of beads would break loose. The
to 90 reported cases of rape per day, and many more victims
distance imposed between the viewer and Kitchen is necessary to preserve
staying silent. The fear of retribution, coupled with bearing
the integrity of the piece, but it also calls attention to Kitchen’s extreme
the burden of intense shame and guilt, keeps women from
fragility. This vulnerability fundamentally transforms Kitchen’s triumphant
speaking up. Instead, they are forced to bury the experience
depiction of the beauty inherent in femininity into a fitting metaphor for
in some dark corner where it will never see the light of day. A
the female experience: precarious. As women, we are often trapped within
2013 United Nations survey in Egypt found 99% of its female
the windowless confines of our own femininity, tip-toeing around, making
population had experienced some form of harassment. While
ourselves as unobtrusive as we can bear, so as not to disrupt the fragile
femininity may evoke the glittering perfection of Kitchen, this
beadwork of our lives.
conception of women is brittle, unlivable, and exceedingly delicate.
Through adolescence, girls are coached on how to behave themselves to ensure they appear inviting and receptive rather than headstrong and
Whether you find Kitchen baffling or are unable to tear
abrasive. We are taught to maintain a pleasant temperament in
yourself away, the piece is an act of defiance. Kitchen
the face of adversity and be quick to placate anyone we
challenges how we distinguish between the ordinary and the
may accidentally offend. We must be gentle and
sublime, between rebelling against the tools of traditionally
obedient. But regardless of how well we perform
feminine labor and elevating them into works of transcendent
this exhausting and unattainable vision of femininity
beauty. Lou zooms in on a kitchen, frozen eternally in time,
in public, in the workplace, or even in our closest
to comment on the outwardly pleasing yet ultimately shallow
relationships, our collective fate remains unrelentingly
nature of a woman pigeonholed as a supporting character in
uncertain.
a man’s story. When I first saw Kitchen, I was captivated by its exacting precision. But after a few minutes, its stillness
Having chosen to live abroad this year, I was repeatedly warned by others about places that were unsafe for women, streets I should never pass through unaccompanied, and how to appease a male neighbor who attempted to kick in my door one night. Beyond the relatively minor inconveniences I face in navigating daily life, women all
This vulnerability fundamentally transforms Kitchen’s triumphant depiction of the beauty inherent in femininity into a fitting metaphor for the female experience: precarious.
around the world are trapped inside the three glass walls of Kitchen. We look out at a
was intolerable. It was as though the piece was daring me to
world in motion that we can never truly inhabit, while
step inside, touch its walls, and even yank off a few beads.
we ourselves remain stagnant.
Maybe the piece is daring all of us to destroy it, to refuse its precarious stillness, and to refuse to be dismissed and
For example, the recent death of feminist icon Ruth Bader
minimized any longer.
Ginsburg enabled Amy Coney Barrett’s confirmation, a justice who may potentially undo Ginsburg’s life’s work. Our reproductive rights hang in the balance, reaffirmed only to be threatened once again. The inertia of Kitchen mimics the way women all around the world find themselves paralyzed. What’s more, Kitchen’s Dickinson poem about “dropping the playthings” of one’s life speaks to the way women are often regarded as frivolous; its hidden pin-up girls demonstrate how we are sexualized and then made to be invisible. This past December, women in India took to the streets to protest the lack of reform protecting women from sexual violence after the
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Through this process, artists have been able to join together and contribute their own perspectives, experiences, and messages to the murals spreading across the United States. There are now murals in New York City, Chicago, Seattle, Tulsa, and Oakland. Some are painted with the same bright, yellow letters as the first one, but others have added different ideas and elements. Various murals in Manhattan (specifically in Harlem and Foley Square), Brooklyn, Chicago, and Seattle have made each letter of “Black Lives Matter” into its own statement. In Brooklyn, for example, the names of victims of police brutality and Black activists were added to the original yellow.
Art Art Beyond Beyond the the Canvas Canvas Words By: Alex Chambers Graphics by: Ruby Lee
go-based artists to join together to complete each of the 16 letters in a different way. One of the murals in Oakland, California extended the phrase writing that “all black trans / queer / nonbinary / woman / disabled / imprisoned lives matter.” This example particularly highlights the importance of intersectionality in the Black Lives Matter movement and the necessity of striving to affirm every Black life. Historically, art was also a major part of anti-war protests during the Vietnam War. Collectives such as Artists and Writers Protest (AWP) in New York City and the Artists Protest Committee (APC) in Los Angeles were some of the first groups of artists to take action. As more artists became involved, art became an integral form of protest against the Vietnam War. For example, both AWP and APC were involved in efforts to build the Peace Tower, or Artists’ Tower of Protest, in Los
Creativity requires breaking norms, as it is through ideas that
Angeles. Peace Tower emphasized the intersection of art, protest,
extend beyond the limits of societal standards of beauty and artistry
and politics. It gave a platform to hundreds of artists, both well-known
that the most original art can often emerge. We are all acquainted with
and amateurs, to speak out against the Vietnam War, as the structure
what is standard, but art that takes the viewer beyond their common
displayed 418 panels, each bringing a different artistic style and offer-
world and into another world of thought can create a lasting and memo-
ing a unique perspective to the anti-war sentiments being expressed.
rable impact. Of course art will exist for purely aesthetic purposes, but it
However, it was highly controversial and was deconstructed only
can also provide a powerful platform for people to depict the world that
three months after its unveiling due to backlash, repeated vandalism,
exists around them. Protest in particular grants artists such a platform. The intersection of art and protest is a near perfect match as the desire and ability to question and change our society is embedded in both. A canvas isn’t the only place that art can take its shape. Black Lives Matter murals have been painted on streets throughout the United States, following in the brushstrokes of the first mural in Washington D.C.
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In Chicago, one Black Lives Matter mural became a way for 18 Chica-
and clashes between pro-war and anti-war supporters. Following its removal, no museum opted to claim the art for their own collection due to its deeply contested and political nature. The fact that it was removed only serves to emphasize how powerful the impact it had was, as if it had not challenged our world there would not have been such an incentive to tear it down. Peace Tower therefore embodies the power of art to organize people and incite change.
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Art can also communicate political and social messages unrelated to specific protests. Illustration specifically highlights the artistic push for change, as social issues and progress are cornerstones of modern illustration. Emotions and ideas are often shared through a single line, rendering illustration an art form that must simultaneously be creative, critical, emotional, and share a message. These traits make it a branch of art that allows artists to create change, inspire pathways for active engagement, encourage empowerment, and have a strong voice both inside and outside of the world of art. For example, an artwork displayed at the Society of Illustrators expresses the threat of climate change. Titled “The Last Polar Bear,” it depicts a lone polar bear on a melting iceberg, its skeleton reflected on the water below. Another illustration exhibited, “Voter Rights,” depicts a voting machine blocked by a gate, which represents voter disenfranchisement. Though simple, the messages of illustration are powerful and can teach us about our current, modern existence. The platform of illustration allows artists to communicate societal triumphs, failures, and controversies to capture the specifics of the era we live in while also sharing their own thoughts, ideas, complaints or solutions.
While art alone does not result in the changes that protests strive to achieve, it’s a useful way of spreading messages and emphasizing the societal flaws we need to work to ameliorate. It also creates an avenue for all kinds of creative people to find a community and a platform to share messages and stories through their artistry. Whether it is done directly or indirectly, art can challenge the society we live in. It can take any kind of form to express a variety of different artistic purposes, therefore defying norms and social conventions becomes a natural part of the artistic process. Art would not have the value it does if it repeatedly depicted the same thing in the same way because meaningful creativity and expression is tied to breaking down standards. Art is a place where the rules of society need not apply, granting artists the chance to use their freedom of expression to paint the world as they see it, create entirely new ideas of the world, and inspire the changes that they hope to see.
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PHOTOS BY: RUBY LEE MODELED BY: DANIELLE DAVIS, ELIZABETH WEINSTEIN & CLAIRE PENNINGTON STYLING BY: MARIA KOBLISH, MARINA VERGARA & JACLYN SKRELA CREATIVE DIRECTION: MARINA VERGARA & JACLYN SKRELA
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NFAS PHOTOS BY: AUDREY TIRRELL
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The Show Goes On
“Fashion shows and creativity are not the cure for this pandemic, but they work as an antidote to help people travel away from their current reality to a world of texture, colors, and inspiration.� Words by: Brenda da Silva Graphic by: Kathryn Schulte
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The photographer Bill Cunningham once said that fashion
tions and sudden changes were a few of the results of COVID-19. The
worked like armor to guide people to survive the hard reality. Today, ex-
brand Koché, for example, had problems with location after the French
periencing the COVID-19’s virus’s constant spread, people have become
government banned gatherings of more than ten people in public
more aware of the things that distract them from these cruel times.
spaces. Instead of using a new creative style to show their work and
Fashion shows and creativity are not the cure for this pandemic, but
respecting the social distancing orders, the Koché team negotiated
they work as an antidote to help people travel away from their current
with officials to separate an area of the Buttes-Chaumont park with
reality to a world of texture, colors, and inspiration.
a velvet rope so that space was considered private. Although there weren’t relevant impacts on the show’s development, it was highly
Fashion is visual communication; it is a language in which many con-
criticized for the lack of consideration and attention to those suffering
noisseurs communicate and understand each other. Fashion shows
from the pandemic results.
demonstrate this sentiment, and COVID-19 has not taken away this art of communication. The creative skills of designers adapted to find
Balmain’s show happened at the Jardin des Plantes. Different types
ways in which they could still communicate their ideas.
of impressive garments, thigh-high boots, jeans, neon suits in many colors, everything illuminated by the starlight. Even the beautiful
A Chinese leading fashion designer, Fang Yang, decided to move her
clothing couldn’t erase the fact that there were still practically no con-
entire runway show to an online platform where she live-streamed her
cerns with social distancing. There were people in-person watching
creations. Bright lights and colorful clothing with beautiful embroidery
the show, and right after the show started, screens on one side of the
and many details were capable of enchanting all fashion admirers, but
runway showed A-list celebrities who couldn’t make it to the show, in-
this time through the glass screen of their cell phones or computers.
cluding Jennifer Lopez and Anna Wintour. In this case, the technology
Models walked down the small space that Fang Yang had available in
used was new and remarkable, which increased the shock about the
her atelier. There was no front row, as many spectators instead watched
preference for a half in-person show when they could easily have used
the show from the comfort of their home. It is a new experience where
this strategy for every guest.
everyone gets to feel like they are in a prestigious spot at the fashion show.
The French house Dior had a different approach. Maria Grazia Chiuri showcased the Autumn-Winter 2020-2021 Haute Couture collection
This scenario was akin to many other brands. In fact, it was the reality
in a film directed by Matteo Garrone. This unique film shows the Dior
for many shows of Paris Fashion Week 2020. Brands had to account
garments in a miniature version, with an intriguing plot that keeps
for every health and fashion requirement so that the show could go on.
viewers interested. It starts giving the viewers the process of creating
One of the most important events in the fashion world demonstrated
small dresses. The dressmakers are developing each piece carefully,
how brands increased their creativity to deal with significant changes
paying attention to little details as in the embroidery on one dresses’
and how there were brands that still opted to keep the traditional style
skirt. The scenario then changes to a forest that appears to be the
having few considerations regarding our reality.
home of several mythical creatures, like nymphs and mermaids. Two men travel with a trunk in which they carry the miniatures, showing
Founder of Fabricant, Kerry Murphy also had to use the help of technol-
and giving them to creatures that live in the woods. In the end, the
ogy due to lockdown orders. Murphy explained his brand proposal of a
movie shows how the dresses looked in a regular size; all the crea-
digital catalog even before the pandemic had started. The brand’s idea
tures seem delighted to have Dior covering their bodies. Many viewers
advanced even further, becoming the first-ever brand to create a digital
believe that this strategy was better than the regular fashion shows
platform that permits buyers to create avatars of themselves wearing
because instead of just watching models down the runway, they get
the brand’s digital clothing. As Murphy suggested, a great strategy is
to see the collection through a well-made film.
that instead of buyers sitting in rows, give them a similar experience using the technology we have today and ask them to participate.
COVID-19 brought many changes to the fashion industry. Still, when looking at those changes with rose-colored glasses, fashion lovers
While several designers preferred to transform their shows to the online
will see that it was the push that the fashion industry needed to in-
format, there were still in-person shows disregarding the high contam-
novate.
ination levels. For those that chose the traditional methods, complica-
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What Does It Mean A woman who will cut you with her curves and entice you with your words. A dream.
A curse.
A lion.
Wild, free, ferocious. Not to be tamed. An overflow of cockiness. Drink if you will. A gun.
A beast.
A phoenix reconciling the quarrel between life and death. An extreme beauty born from the in-between, a baby’s fiery breath. A human celestial covered in lacey and leather material; a woman who eats and blooms and wears her body better than any costume.
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to be Savage?
Words by: Jessica Yu Graphics by: Kathryn Schulte
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NO. 15 Despite this mistake, the diversity is obvious. There is nearly every
This is the introduction to Rihanna’s Savage x Fenty Show, Vol.
single shade of skin in the show, as well as every size and body type.
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There are also men of all shapes and sizes. Dexter Mayfield struts un-
It opens with a voice that’s distinctly Rihanna’s: “Storytelling is the last part of any journey. There is experience. And then there’s that emotion that’s connected to that experience.” She is right. And the audience is hooked.
der strobe lights, shirtless and fierce in an objectively amazing catwalk. There is even diversity in haircuts. Women in pixie cuts and mullets and mohawks. Beautiful hair is no longer constrained to bouncy curls found in the pink walls backstage of Victoria’s Secret fashion shows.
Then, the voice of another woman, with hands like claws,
The makeup is also incredibly artistic. The face is a canvas and the
adorned in floral patterned lace and sharp colored nails entered
makeup artists were hired to draw on the dancers. Abstraction trumps
the conversation. The voice describing a savage. The dancer
convention. Beauty defies restrictions.
embodying that savage.
Later on in the show, we hear Rihanna say, “It really is inspiring to
I know. I understand what a savage is. I see what a savage is.
me how you can use colors, paint, makeup textures just to embody
Then, the savage, having finished her dance, walks across the
drag queens: it’s an entire change in persona. We hear other members
screen. Left to right, introducing us to another row of dancers. Kendrick Lamar’s song Poetic Justice plays in the background. With the dancers, you see that it is poetic justice indeed. So, where is justice to be found in lingerie? For one, it’s for the she’s and they’s and even he’s that grew up being sold a very rigid idea of the feminine ideal. A girl who will flash you a bright smile and intimidate you with her thinness.
whatever you want to.” She talks about how powerful lipstick is for of the cast, as Ciarda Hall, speak of constantly dyeing her hair when she was younger, never wanting to stick with one look when she could explore it all. Precious Lee does the same thing, but with haircuts instead of colors. It allows her to explore gender and sexuality however she wishes, she says. We hear what we didn’t know we needed to. That we are fluid beings and we can practice that fluidity with our appearances. We don’t owe
A woman with ‘tamed’ hair. Caged, scared, gentle. A contained
it to anyone to appear a certain way or exist under a certain label.
scream.
Sexuality, Rihanna says, is “that empowerment in wearing whatever the hell I want however the hell I want to wear it. For myself… it is
You know what I’m referring to. You see the pink and baby pink
something that has to be owned or earned.” Despite this being a per-
stripes and smell the bombshell perfumes and see the fantasy
formance, every cast member has reasons for being there that con-
bras. You hear them reciting their pre-show diets and wonder how
cerns only themselves. It’s empowering with or without an audience.
they can survive for two months without any carbs. And that was a pre-keto world. The very sad truth is that other lingerie and swimwear shows were essentially responsible for feeding into the insecurities of millions of women. For making any non-white and skinny woman feel unseen. For selling us lies. Rihanna’s show is a direct response, a callout. One very-well executed, except for insensitively including Hadith, an Islamic verse in the show. After receiving backlash, Rihanna issued an apology, saying “I would more importantly like to apologize for this honest, yet careless mistake… I take full responsibility for the fact I did not research these words properly.” One.
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Just like that, they answer the question of why this all matters. Why should we care in a pandemic-stricken apocalyptic world? Because we’re art. There’s art in our savagery that needs to be shared. Behind the art in this show are multiple artists at work, including Parris Goebel, who New Zealand Prime Minister appointed as “New Zealand’s entertainment and cultural curator” for the 2020 World Expo, is an award-winning choreographer who has worked with multiple celebrities such as Ciara, Nicki Minaj, and Jennifer Lopez. She now adds Rihanna’s Savage x Fenty show to her repertoire. Under Goebel’s expertise, every dancer is savage in their individuality, transcending the lingerie they are selling. They aren’t merely sexual beings; they’re artists, emotive, talented, skilled.
FLASH MAGAZINE “There’s no book written on how to be a woman.” I might have to disagree with Rihanna there. There are books that do instruct women on how to be themselves. And even without those magazine headlines and literary tropes, we have other manuscripts in the shape of advertisements and male scrutiny. But I know there shouldn’t be. And at least in Rihanna’s Savage x Fenty garden, which appears in the latter half of the show, there isn’t. Rihanna blossoms from a human-sized flower, exuding an ethereal feel. She stares into the camera and looks down at herself. There’s that acknowledgment of our presence and the dismissiveness of our gaze. We can stay and watch if we’d like. And we do. exuding an ethereal feel. She stares into the camera and looks down at herself. There’s that acknowledgment of our presence and the dismissiveness of our gaze. We can stay and watch if we’d like. And we do. She walks through a garden. Remember what I said about Dexter Mayfield’s walk is one of the best ever? Well, so is hers. The electric colors wash over the garden of women, dancing, and posing. Rihanna smirks a little. This is one option of how to be a woman, it suggests. But only if you want to be. This is femininity unthreatened even by the presence of men: Miguel and his band. The last scene in the show takes place in a factory-like room. People, women and men, dance to Parris’ choreography on tables and drag queens runway walk across assembly lines. The ironic message is clever: we are not factory-made. Our bodies are not meant to be duplicated from magazine prototypes. The dancers and models stomp all over the factory surfaces, victorious against its limits. This is justice served, savagery owned.
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The Ugly Side: How the
Pandemic Has Revealed Systemic Inequality Within the Fashion Industry
Words by: Mia Agostinelli
In this world, nothing is perfect. We may strive our
modeling industry right now. We are seeing, to put it in more
best to achieve a traditional, ingrained concept of perfection,
metaphorical terms, imperfection in the business centered on
but everything will always have “flaws�. In an industry that con-
perfection and we are faced with a choice. Ignore it and let the
cerns itself with portraying an image of perfection, in whatever
inequality continue, or choose to do something about it and
subjective way that is, the conditions that arise for the inability
alter how this industry is for the people that embody it.
to meet specific and (arguably) superficial goals allow a glimpse at a world that we know exists even if we fail to acknowledge it.
To gain an insider’s perspective on this subject, I had the oppor-
Oftentimes, when all of society is struggling, we become aware
tunity to ask somebody who is active in the modeling industry
of the areas in which we lack this conceptual perfection that we
right now. Elisabeth Lake is a model for IMG Worldwide, which
seek. And, therefore, we begin to acknowledge the people that
is a renowned top modeling agency. She has continued working
are suffering the most. In this instance, I am not just talking
this year in London, Paris, and Milan throughout the pandemic.
about perfection in terms of beauty, but rather in terms of soci-
When asked about the various impacts of the pandemic within
ety as a whole.
her job, Ms. Lake expressed her primary financial concerns in regards to the slowdown in work over the past six months and
The emergence of COVID-19 at the beginning of this year has
hoped that as work picked back up, financial conditions would
made the modeling industry directly confront the systemic
improve. According to a survey conducted by the Pew Research
problems that it has chosen to ignore for too long. This goes
Center in the United States, 60% of workers surveyed who lost
without saying, of course, that the concerns that have arisen
wages during the pandemic are still earning less. The financial
within the modeling industry are not more significant than
impacts are long-lasting and have been felt system-wide. 42%
underlying complications within different industries. Rather,
of respondents in the same survey say that they or somebody
many of these issues are the same, or very similar, to those that
in their household lost a job or suffered a lost wage due to the
are present in every level of our society. Concerns like general
pandemic. That number increases among lower-income individ-
impacts on finances, working conditions, relationships with em-
uals and Black, Hispanic, and Asian Americans and is not felt in
ployers and management agencies, and labor protections are
one industry alone.
all problems that individuals are facing both in and out of the
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FLASH MAGAZINE
The most impactful consequence of the pandemic is the rise in financial inequality and the inability for individuals to afford necessities. In a survey conducted by The Model Alliance earlier this year, which is an advocacy organization for individuals within the modeling industry, 20% of the just over two-hundred models surveyed said they did not have enough money at the time to cover basic needs. Furthermore, only 6% of respondents said they had the ability to claim paid sick leave, only 7% were receiving unemployment benefits, and 21% were not covered by health
these changes to the industry are long overdue and go beyond
insurance. These figures alone show just how much needs to be
just representation. Expanding and ensuring equality within this
done in terms of reform- even when the world is not in the middle
industry alone means that including models of color also involves
of a health crisis everybody should have the ability to claim paid
protecting their right to work, speak up, and receive a wage that
sick leave, receive unemployment benefits if necessary, and have
is equitable, livable, and equal to that of their white colleagues.
access to affordable healthcare while making a wage they can live on. Those necessities should not be unattainable to individu-
Wage disparity is directly connected to other important issues
als no matter what industry they choose to work in.
within the modeling industry as Ms. Lake expressed when discussing working conditions and the sheer reduction in clients.
In all of the categories sampled, models of color disproportion-
“Work conditions right now are taken very seriously...everyone
ately expressed concerns about the ability to afford basic needs
seems to be taking precaution[s] because, as creatives, we all
and advocate for workers’ rights. “I know my agency represents
want to be able to continue to work,” she said. “This season was
a wide range of models with different body types, ethnicities, and
especially difficult for ‘new face models’ like me due to the fact
backgrounds,” Ms. Lake said when asked about diversification
that the limited brands who were doing shows were mostly using
within the modeling industry. “Although I believe the industry
girls they had already used in the past. Additionally, girls were
has much more work to do, I feel that this season I have noticed
only called to castings on request where, normally, agencies
designers especially make it a priority to showcase much more
would send all of their show package girls to every casting. For
body equality and models of all backgrounds.” In an interview
example, all of the girls I know went to about 4-5 castings in the
with Elle in September, model and media star Indya Moore shared
span of a week where normally during a regular fashion show
their experience, “I hope that fashion designers and creators are
season girls would be sent to about 10 castings a day.” Among
taking the time right now to learn about real folks’ circumstances, so they understand why it’s so important to represent these people on their runways and in their brands”. This argument and
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NO. 15
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FLASH MAGAZINE
the individuals in the same survey by The Model Alliance, 56% of white respondents said that if they were unable to work for an additional three months after the survey was conducted they would be able to afford basic necessities. Among respondents of color, that number falls to 39%, and of black respondents that number is only 34%. Nearly half (45%) of respondents in The Model Alliance survey said they feared retaliation if they spoke up about working conditions. In Ms. Lakes experience, she feels confident in her agency’s ability to defend the rights of her and other models, but she also said that she cannot, unfortunately, speak to the stories of other models and their agencies. Among “Black and African Americans” surveyed by The Model Alliance, only 22% of them said they would feel comfortable advocating for COVID-19 precautions; even if there were to be safety violations- these individuals would be the least likely to speak out about it. The existence
foreground of the industry and will not become any less preva-
of organized labor, while present in other professions, is notably
lent, it may be time to establish a way for models to advocate for
absent from the modeling industry and it is important to note
their own workers’ rights.
that a lack of union protection implies the inability to collectively bargain for workers rights which often include labor protections
The impending question, now, is what does this all mean for the
and more equitable pay. Many people have called for the creation
industry? How do we take the first steps in addressing all of these
of unions for models specifically in the United States prior to the
issues? How can we make a difference? Widespread systemic
pandemic. Now that all of these workers rights issues are at the
change often is slow and daunting. It can even be discouraging at times, but the progressive actions taken by individuals within the modeling world and by people who support it only make way for more progress and change. It is true that these tough times have revealed the ugly side of the fashion industry. It is a side where people are struggling financially, socially, and emotionally. But emphasizing these issues is only the beginning. Speaking out, being an advocate for these individuals, and giving unconditional support will drive the change that will give them the protection they need in this trying time and in the years to come.
FASHION
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NO. 15
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FLASH MAGAZINE
PHOTOS BY: AUDREY TIRRELL MODELED BY: AUDREY TIRRELL STYLING BY: AUDREY TIRRELL PIECES FROM: AURORA AUDREY ON ETSY.COM
FASHION
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NO. 15
BEAU
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BEAU
TEY FLASH MAGAZINE
PHOTOS BY: ELLA LEE
BEAUTY
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N O. 1 5
Feminity Through My Hair
Words By: Emma Federer Graphics by: Celia Patterson
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F L A S H M AG A Z I N E
“Hair is perceived to be an essential part of feminine expression.” I had the pleasure of speaking to
While the negative social media comments are to be expected,
Madrid-based film artist, Selpide, about
there was an overwhelming amount of statements that
her experience of expressing herself through her hair.
aggressively projected politics onto one woman’s personal
During a challenging time in her mental health journey,
hair styling choice. Looking deeper into their vicious hate
Selpide decided to make a fresh start for herself. In a flurry
comments, I found some common assumptions made about
of spontaneity and friend-filled fun, she shaved her head.
Selpide for her shaved hair. She was automatically queer-
Selpide’s new hairstyle happened to fall on the date of an
coded, politicized, and sexualized for her hair exists outside
annual tradition she has kept with a close friend. On the first
the beauty ‘norm’. I want to take a closer look at what this
day of each year in university, they have posed by garbage
standard for hair is, why anything outside of the norm is
cans to be the twitter #trash they aspire to be. Since this is
immediately coded as ‘other,’ and why there is such a violent
her senior year, Selpide posted the compilation of photos
reaction to any shift in the expected.
over the last four years, showing their emotional (and physical) evolution over time. Others joined in the fun, making the tweet viral throughout Spain, but with great fun comes even greater trolls. While Selpide identifies as bisexual, she hasn’t made any accouncements online nor any political statements associated with her physical appearence. Assumptive and rude as ever, men with a political agenda of the internet latched onto her hairstyle without any evidence or invitation to purposefully misgender Selpide, accuse her of sex work in a derogatory manner, and idly claims that higher education or university is nothing more than a lesbian factory.
BEAUTY
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N O. 1 5 Hair is perceived to be an essential part of feminine expression. Not only are women expected to spend egregious amounts of time and money on maintaining their hair, there seems to be a eurocentric standard of hair amplified by the male gaze that our society deems the most feminine and therefore most ‘beautiful.’ Emily Ratajkowski got into a bit of a scandal for an ignorant instagram caption that read “Long hair is a fundamental part of beauty, femininity, and identity.” Of course, this excludes women with shaved heads, short
“Your hair, whatever form it takes, is beautiful and perfect for you.”
hair, alopecia, those transitioning, and those experiencing
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hair loss due to a number of treatments. Ratajkowski exemplifies the view of long hair being set as the baseline of beauty for all women. It makes sense that anything other than long hair would be coded as queer, political, or antinormative. A Vice article written by Charlotte Gush explains why this is the case. Gush states: “An inherently discriminatory concept, femininity privileges those who are young, slim, Caucasian, healthy, wealthy, and able-bodied, with long hair and little to no body hair. It is a sexist, heteronormative, racist, ageist, sizeist and ableist concept, based on how ‘fuckable’ women are judged to be by a society and culture that foregrounds the desires of men, and white men in particular.” According to the Science Focus, evolutionary psychology has found that men find long hair to be a sign of health and abundant fertility, and are more attracted to them as a result. Hair, therefore, becomes another way that women are able to satisfy the male gaze. The standard for hair is set and maintained by straight men. This is exemplified by the violent, hateful reaction to Selpide’s shaved hair. Vice writer, Gush, maintains her point about femininity through hair by also stating, “Those judged less fuckable, less ‘feminine’ -- because they are old, fat, differently-abled, ill, poor, LGBTQ, or black (as this Tinder analysis shows) -- are often discriminated against, and even dehumanised, as the horrendous rate of violence faced by transgender women, and trans women of colour in particular, shows.”
F L A S H M AG A Z I N E
Since 2019, Grande’s song “7 Rings” skyrocketed in popularity. In this song, she states, “You like my hair? Gee, thanks, just bought it.” Grande glamorizes the use of weaves as an expenditure and is praised for it. Meanwhile, Black women are accused of being artificial, or ‘tricking men’ for using any hair enhancements. There is a double bind that women of color, specifically Black women, are caught in. They are told their natural hair isn’t good enough, or isn’t beautiful as it is because they are expected to meet the white standard of long straight hair. When they use weaves/wigs to try and meet this eurocentric ideal, they are torn down for being dishonest, while white women are accepted and praised for doing the same. This feminine ideal is clearly rooted in the idea of the white
This hair discrimination is built into the very exclusive concept
straight femme. Hair that is anything other than femme is
of feminity that women’s hair is held to. Women of all ages are
considered queer or against heternormative standards,
held to this imposed standard of eurocentric white beauty and
which positions femme as the best. There is a struggle that
are judged harshly for not meeting it.
women have to face against their aggressively gendered bodies.
The sexism that invades our consciousness
As a mixed woman, I already have inherent hair privilege
disconnects us from our own bodies; we have to fight
built into my genes. I get my naturally straight hair from
against the mentality that shames hair expression outside
my white father and the intense natural black coloring from
of the conventional white standard.
my Asian mother. As someone who hasn’t had to put much thought into my hair, I’m beginning to understand my own
Women of color, especially Black women, are often crucified
hair privilege. When my older aunts have reminded me that
for not meeting the ideal hair standard while white women
it will be ‘easier’ to attract a man with long naturally-colored
such as Ariana Grande receive praise for appropriating
hair, I have easily brushed them off to dye my hair a putrid
their hair. Grande herself has a history is full of hair
green for my own enjoyment. My natural straight black hair
drama. At first, Grande got backlash for keeping the same
seems to fit into the textbook definition of the “white femme
slick ponytail throughout her career. Female artists are
norm” but is also fetizished as the pin-straight hair of an Asian
expected to reinvent themselves, establish eras of looks
American woman. Again, my hair is only accepted because of
that correspond with their music. Grande defended her hair.
white men’s desire, rooted in a fixated obsession with women
Having dyed it heavily for all her seasons in Victorious, her
of color. This conversation of hair assumptions and inherent
hair was heavily damaged. She felt the most comfortable
femininity is riddled with complicated intersectionality of
and confident in her ponytail. Again, trolls mocked her look
hair, and I couldn’t fathom covering everything in its entirety
for years, demonstrating that women’s hair is constantly
in a single article. However, I would like to remind every
being monitored and critiqued. Eventually, Grande’s silky
woman who reads this that your hair, whatever form it takes,
high-enough-to-reach-the- clouds ponytail became her
is beautiful and perfect for you. Don’t let the patriarchal and
signature and revered as a symbol of her beauty.
racialized standard control your self-expression.
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N O. 1 5
spotlight on:
@ellessentially_ I had the pleasure of speaking to my friend, Elle Lee, about her budding beauty account, @ellessentially_, and her take on beauty on Instagram. Elle started @ellessentially_ in 2019, and has come a long way in just a year. Her account is filled with stunning images (many of which are featured here), honest reviews, and thoughtful musings on the beauty industry. I learned more about Elle and her experience as part of the Instagram beauty community in our conversation.
Interview by: Celia Patterson Words and images by: Elle Lee
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F L A S H M AG A Z I N E
What inspired you to make @ellessentially_? Believe it or not, I have to give credit to this makeup panning account (@sammiepansmakeup) that I had silently followed for about a year before. I had always followed a few of my favorite makeup brands on insta, but this smaller account was
“When I...started my account, I began with that foundation of trying to take account of and appreciate what I owned.”
my real introduction to the Instagram beauty community. For anyone unfamiliar, “panning” is a term used for when people are actively setting goals or projects to use up items in their collection. It has some beautiful ties to sustainability and general conscious consumerism, but on the surface level it’s simply people talking about their beauty products and showing the entire life cycle that begins after you finally make the purchase. When I finally started my account, I began with that foundation of trying to take account of and appreciate what I owned. Over the past year, it’s since grown beyond the bounds of just panning content, but that core message of practicality and appreciation has stuck with me. How would you describe your content? How much space do we have for adjectives here? Honest, bright, simple, colorful, juicy. Sunlit, almost as a rule. Lots of close-ups and textures. And then my stories are filled with personal dumb fun. It’s honestly much easier if you just check it out. How is this account different from other beauty accounts? I think it’s very… me?
That’s a lame answer, but I try to
incorporate my personality into my account as much as possible. The easiest answer would be my content, though. I think it stands out a lot with the signature white background and bright, clear colors. It took a couple of months to find the aesthetic I’m at currently, but it suits me. It’s straight up and just lets the products speak for themselves- visually, at least, because I do speak on them quite a bit. That’s the other thing. I like to keep it real with people, from negative experiences with products to navigating PR as a nano-influencer account.
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N O. 1 5
Beauty, to me, is a celebratory word. It’s an acknowledgement that we are alive and that is… beautiful.
What are your goals that you want to accomplish with your
Your all-time favorite product?
account?
This is such a tough one. I’ve completely fallen in love with
This one changes a lot. It’s been less than a year since
cream blushes and there are so many I could shout out. But
I started and at first it was just for me, like a diary of my
if my entire collection disappeared, the first thing added to my
products. I guess it’s still a bit of a diary but for a much
cart would be Glow Recipe’s Watermelon Glow Lip Pop. $22
larger audience. Recently I had a moment where I realized,
for this little lip balm that absolutely owns my soul. It smells
“Oh… I might actually be able to do Something with this.” My
just like those watermelon gummies, leaves the prettiest pink
main goal is to keep creating better, more interesting photos.
tint on your lips, and most importantly has AHAs to actually
But who knows where this could go in the future. I’d love to
improve your lips. I suffer from the dryest, flakiest lips and
actually work with brands as a photographer on campaigns.
this is the first and only lip balm that has brought them back
I want to see if this can actually become a gig for me, since
to the land of the living.
I could spend all day every day taking and editing these photos. I also always love seeing people taking new types
What is your favorite thing about the Instagram beauty
of photos and experimenting with their style, so I hope I can
community?
inspire that too. I definitely have to start goal setting more,
The kindness. And the passion. I have met some of the
I’ve grown so much in the past two or three months that I’m
loveliest most supportive people through my account. We all
still processing that brands actually want to work with me.
just want to see each other do well. You know the trope of comments girls leave on their friends’ posts? It’s like that to
Your current favorite product?
the max. We all just hype eachother up, share tips, etc. It’s all
Definitely my Glisten Cosmetics split wet liners (I recently
very wholesome.
picked up the UV bundle of six colors). They’re these little pots with two water-activated shades in them and they are seriously so. much. fun. They’re quite pigmented and you can mix them together to create nearly any color. I’ve been into graphic eyeliner looks for a while, but these make doing them a thousand times easier and much more vibrant/ customizable. It just feels like playtime with a new toy- I get so excited to doodle on my eyes each morning.
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F L A S H M AG A Z I N E
What do you think needs to change about the Instagram beauty community? Definitely that Monolith Of Beauty idea. I hate that. Let people do what they want!! Let people take pride in their features and the fact no one looks the same! I’m so glad we’re starting to see the “If you have acne, you need to layer on the full coverage. If you have a fuller face you need to contour” trends die off. I can’t wait for more experimental, expressive makeup to become commonplace. As much as it makes me laugh and think of The Capitol in The Hunger Games, I think seeing makeup become more ornamental and “for the fun of it” would be great. The Instagram beauty community also really needs to work on addressing racism and allyship. This summer we saw a lot of progress, but a big part of that was primarily preformative (I’m directly @-ing every brand that posted “support” and never said a peep again). Some brands were
What does beauty mean to you?
called out, some brands were “cancelled.” We need to be
“Beauty” is everywhere. There is beauty in the ordinary, there
better at supporting and crediting BIPOC, especially Black,
is beauty in simply Being. Beauty is not a singular goal, but
creators. It’s something I definitely grapple with too; how do
an expression extended towards so many parts of life— every
you deal with huge brands that still, in the year of our lord
little thing can be beauty. I like the concept of wabi-sabi; it
2020, refuse to release deep shades? Is calling them out on
goes beyond accepting imperfection, it celebrates it as a
it enough? Is boycotting their brand enough? Do they even
profound result of existence. The little creases your face
care so long as some people buy their products anyway?
makes is beauty. The imperfect line you draw is beauty. The
Then that’s a slippery slope to “there’s simply no ethical
small folds in a cream is beauty. Anything that contains joy
consumerism” since there’s only so many parent companies.
contains beauty, but beauty extends far past joy. Beauty, to
I think just continually speaking up helps. Speak up to
me, is a celebratory word. It’s an acknowledgement that we
support BIPOC creators that don’t get their dues, speak up
are alive and that is… beautiful.
when brands misstep so those who “vote with their dollar” can, speak up when brands get it right, speak up when you find Black-owned brands you can support instead. Mostly, I just try to listen. And stop making appropriative trends! That “fox eye” pull?? Get outta here.
“Beauty is not a singular goal, but an expression extended towards so many parts of life— every little thing can be beauty.” BEAUTY
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N O. 1 5
Makeup Gets Ugly Words by: Celia Patterson Images by: @uglymakeuprevolution
Why does makeup need to be aesthetically pleasing? Here’s the thing, it doesn’t. A growing online movement is that of “Ugly Makeup.” Instagram accounts like @ uglymakeuprevolution,
@makeupbrutalism,
and
@
radioactive.pigeon are pioneering a new style of makeup, one that does not focus on the conventionally beautiful but on the experimental and, yes, the ugly. These accounts prioritize creativity and individuality in makeup, moving beyond the traditional style to something new and exciting. This new style of ugly makeup can take many forms. Statement words, optical illusions, and messy abstractions pattern the feed of @uglymakeuprevolution. One look appears to be the result of an explosion of pink paint that
The handle of one account making waves within the ugly makeup community provides an interesting alternative title for this movement: @makeupbrutalism connects this new style of makeup to the architectural style of brutalism. In the same way that architectural brutalism features raw materials and exposed interiors in buildings, makeup brutalism places emphasis on the texture of products and the naked skin. Pictures display bare skin surrounding an eye covered in Jello and lips lined with glue. Eszter Magyar, who runs both this account and @uglymakeuprevolution, calls her style “controversial, conceptual and raw.” It is this controversy that has allowed both her account and the ugly makeup movement to grow.
landed on the model’s face. Another features a painstakingly detailed painting of a can of spam over a face. Ugly makeup cannot be defined exactly. It will almost always surprise you. The style is characterized by new techniques, like the eyeliner-soaked irises of @makeupbrutalism, new materials, like the clementine eyelashes of @radioactive.pigeon, and new ideas, like the idea that makeup no longer needs to be beautiful.
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BEAUTY
F L A S H M AG A Z I N E The controversy stems from the fact that makeup is
Ugly makeup seeks to create something different, highlighting
generally thought to be the antithesis of what we define as
innovation and variety. You will never see two of the same
“ugly.” Most people use makeup to enhance their beauty.
looks on @uglymakeuprevolution, @radioactive.pigeon, or
They make their brows thicker, their lips bigger, and noses
@makeupbrutalism. Each post will surprise with its ability
thinner. Of course, the uses of makeup are constantly
to be somehow completely different than the one before.
changing. Facial features, much like fashion, go in and out of
These accounts provide a platform to bring different types of
style and makeup trends have to keep up with the ideal as it
beauty into the spotlight and to exemplify the way in which
continuously transforms. Enter ugly makeup. Ugly makeup
something does not have to be beautiful to be seen. Originality
rejects these norms and seeks to encourage the subversion
and subversion are king in the ugly makeup community,
of the ideal. In a discussion of @makeupbrutalism’s impact
allowing artists who do not conform to the Instagram ideal to
on Instagram, Giulia Ronchi writes for domus, “Much more
find success on the platform.
than a provocation, [these] page[s] [are] a political manifesto, an act of resistance against the beauty industry that wants
As community member @maretubaleht wrote, “I think
us eternal and superhuman.”
Uglymakeuprevolution...play[s]
a
role
in
the
larger
democratization of beauty. Beauty, especially individual When Instagram feeds are filled with perfectly curated,
presentations of it, is becoming more creative. Eyeshadow
imperfection-free pictures, it can be refreshing to see
is not just for eyes, lipstick is not just for lips, and rules are
something different. As Magyar says, “Our society is
not to be followed. And, in my opinion, the larger consumer
obsessed with perfection and youth, and I’m going against
base is slowly becoming more accept[ing of]...different forms
that.” Ugly makeup is also part of a larger anti-aesthetic
of beauty-representation.” Makeup no longer needs to fit the
movement on Instagram that seeks to uproot the polished
mold. You can do whatever you want to your face. If you
looWk associated with the platform. This polished look
want to contour and highlight, then do it. If you want to put
often permeates the popular culture of Instagram, as many
clementines on your eyelids, do it. There is no one right way
influencers emulate each other and seek to ascribe to an
to wear makeup. As long as you’re having fun, you’re doing it
idealized, uniform image. They get their lips filled, hold their
right.
mini Jacquemus bags, and contour their faces to the gods. There is nothing wrong with the influencer’s image, but the anti-aesthetic and ugly makeup movements take issue with the way in which this ideal is privileged, encouraging the homogenization of Instagram culture.
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NO. 15
Naturally Glowing: Redefine Your Skincare Routine Words by: Isabella Sottile Illustrations by: Ruby Lee
Understanding the broad negative impacts the skincare industry The popularity of natural beauty has reached new
can have, it is time to redefine how we care for our skin through
heights over the past few years, especially within the realm of
the manufacturing processes, ingredients, and products we
skincare—for good reason too. Natural products have obvious
choose to support. But where to start? The FDA does not reg-
benefits over non-natural beauty products for our skin, but it is
ulate terms like “natural,” “organic,” or “clean.” That means that
necessary that we realize how these non-natural beauty prod-
companies can label their products as organic if they have even
ucts can cause great harm to our environment. The manufactur-
a few organic ingredients mixed in with the bad ingredients be-
ing processes, ingredients, and packaging of skincare products
cause they want to market their products to the consumer seek-
affect our environment more than one might understand at first
ing organic or natural skincare without doing much research. In
glance.
reality, many of these products labeled as natural still contain
As conscious skincare consumers, we must educate ourselves
harmful chemicals.
on the negative impacts that the products we frequently pur-
Fortunately, lots of companies do produce wholly natural and
chase have on our environment. For example, when the toxic
organic skincare products. It is all a matter of reading every in-
chemicals used in some skincare products are washed down
gredient in the product you are purchasing. A beauty compa-
our drains, they find their way into our ecosystem through the
ny called Follain sells a curated collection of some of the best
ocean. These toxins are first harmful to aquatic species, and
clean skincare products on the market. In addition, while selling
second, harmful to us when we consume any of these aquatic
products of multiple brands on their site, they also craft and cre-
species. Many facial cleansers sold on the market today con-
ate their own natural products. With a site that can be trusted to
tain plastic microbeads which do not break down naturally.
carry truly organic beauty products, it can be easier to find the
These harmful pieces of waste which collect pollutants as they
perfect products for naturally glowing skin. Here are a few of
sit in the ocean are consumed by marine life, causing suffoca-
their most popular products.
tion, stunted growth, buildup in their digestive tracts, and often death. However, it is not just the plastic beads that are at fault—skincare ingredients such as oxybenzone and octinoxate which are found in many sunscreens, as well as an antibacterial and antimicrobial ingredient called triclosan contained in some soaps,
Indie Lee’s COQ-10 Toner is made to moisturize and remove excess oil with hyaluronic acid and aloe vera.
toothpastes, and deodorants are not broken down by water waste treatment plants and pollute our oceans. These ingredients, called endocrine disruptors, negatively affect hormone levels in marine life as well as humans. As for packaging issues, almost all skincare and beauty products are unfortunately sold in single-use plastics, adding unnecessary plastic waste to our environment. This plastic waste also harms and kills aquatic species through entrapment or ingestion.
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Jade rollers are used to promote lymphatic drainage and decrease puffiness around the eye area, and Mount Lai makes The Mini Jade Facial Roller which is both convenient in size and effective.
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Osmia’s Black Clay Facial Soap is made for all skin types to be acne-clearing and calming with a combination of Black Australian Clay, almond, avocado, and castor bean oils to cleanse your skin without causing irritation.
Reading the labels of your products to understand what makes it truly organic or natural is the only way to fully implement
Orgaid’s Vitamin C & Revitalizing Organic Sheet Mask pairs Vitamin C, hyaluronic acid, orange peel, and pomegranate to rejuvenate and boost collagen.
an organic beauty regimen with store bought products. While these products are often pricey, the quality of natural ingredients makes them more worthwhile. However, keep in mind that these products still utilize single-use plastics in their packaging. Alternatively, to prevent unnecessary waste, consider making your own beauty products—crafting your own products at home with nontoxic ingredients is a great way to redefine your skincare routine to be wholly organic and environmentally friendly. You can also control the quantities you make at one time, decreasing your wastefulness by avoiding having to throw out expired products you were not able to finish.
Osea’s Ocean Cleanser made with organic seaweed removes excess dirt and oil, but leaves the natural pH balance of your skin intact.
Homemade skincare products are made using ingredients such as oils, butters, waxes, and essential oils. Some of the most popular are argan oil for vitamin E and improving skin elasticity, jojoba oil for its cleansing abilities and anti-inflammatory properties, shea butter for intense moisturization, and beeswax and tea tree essential oil to treat inflammation. Other great ingredients are aloe vera for incredible moisturization properties, castile soap as a gentle and effective cleanser, and raw honey with its antibacterial and moisturizing abilities. These are just a few of the ingredients available to us as conscious skincare consumers, and with careful research, you can create organic skincare that is suited to your unique skin type. Our current environmental crisis necessitates that we all seek
Weleda’s Skin Food Light Nourishing Cream nourishes your skin with a plant blend of chamomile, calendula, and pansy.
to live more sustainable lifestyles, and that affects every aspect of our lives, including our skincare. Making sure the ingredients you put on your skin are safe and nontoxic is vital for naturally healthy and glowing skin today and later in life. By transitioning to an organic skincare routine, you can care for the future of your skin and the future of our environment.
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V I S UA L S B Y: C E L I A PAT T E R S O N
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ginghome NO. 15
ginghome
ginghome ginghome ging-
Words by: By Liyara Cooray
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Eco-friendly Homeware Marketplace
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Ging-home is an upcoming eco-friendly homeware brand
The name “ging-home” takes inspiration from a lovely fabric called
based in Sri Lanka. We are a brand aimed at providing our custom-
“gingham,” which is often used as the typical picnic blanket. I
er base with carefully curated, high-quality eco-friendly homeware
created this brand during quarantine in the course of which we
products. We would provide everything from reusable grocery
had an island-wide curfew in Sri Lanka for close to two months.
bags to bamboo toothbrushes and other essential cleaning sup-
I made a conscious effort to make sure I did something I enjoyed
plies and daily-use products. Sri Lanka is abundant and practically
as often as I could, and for me, with the availability of limited re-
oozing with natural resources waiting to be made use of.
sources, I managed to gather what I could to have a mini picnic on my rooftop. I have always adored the idea of picnics and their
Unfortunately, Sri Lanka partially lost many of its cultural roots
ability to bring people together in a simple and effortless way. It
when we were colonized in 1505, so we have strayed away and
was a low cost but effective way of keeping my mind and senses
gotten lost in the seam, on our way toward a more westernized cul-
in check without having to leave the house or meet anyone. This
ture. Our original roots were more in-line with nature; Sri Lankans
is where the idea for ging-home came; I wanted to provide people
made use of the natural elements around us such as cane for bas-
with effortlessly minimal, daily use products that were sustainable
kets and other storage containers, coconut husks for everything
but also affordable. I believe that switching to more sustainable
from brooms to washing scrubs, coconut shells made into cooking
alternatives that are used in our daily lives could have a significant
utensils, the list goes on. Over the years, the country has carelessly
positive impact on the environment. It is our plastic toothbrushes
switched to single-use plastic and other environmentally harmful
and disposable water bottles that end up washing up on the shores
materials due to their convenience and mass production capabili-
of our beaches and inefficiently disintegrating into the floors of
ties. This is the case in most countries across the world, so I hope
our forests. Small changes in our lifestyle can go a long way, and
to make use of naturally-made alternatives of daily-use products
with ging-home, I hope to provide consumers with everything they
and make them available to the global market. There is no doubt
may need to make a smooth transition to a more environmentally
that Sri Lankans and many other countries have both reaped ben-
conscious lifestyle.
efits and also been disadvantaged by colonization, but I do think there is a ton of potential in reviving some of the lost links to our
Stay tuned for our official launch date and be sure to check us out
roots due to its positive impact on the environment, which we are
on our website and on Instagram.
in dire need of, at the moment, due to climate change. I believe that this start-up brand is a way of doing my part for both the environment as a whole and the people of my community. I think that many small steps in the right direction can create sizable change.
WEBSITE: w w w. n a t ro p i c a l . c o m / g i n g h o m e
INSTAGRAM: @ging.home
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NO. 15
Big Businesses and Major Politicians are Killing Our Planet : What Can We Do? “The eyes of all future generations are upon you. And if you choose to fail us, I say﹣ we will never forgive you.” -Greta Thunberg at the UN Climate Summit NY, 23 September 2019 Rising seas, melting glaciers, inexplicable weather, global warming- the climate crisis is among us and the threat it holds grows daily. In 2015, the United States joined the Paris Agreement along with 195 other countries in the U.N., where they agreed to
Thunberg’s words hit the hearts of Millennials and Gen-
eration Z especially hard given the impending doom of irreversible climate change they were forced to grow up watching. The damage, largely caused by the generations before them, places
mitigate greenhouse gas emissions, adaptation, and finance.
a wearying weight onto their shoulders to salvage the world for
On June 1, 2017, within his first one hundred
After her speech, Trump ran to Twitter as per-usual and
Three months later in December, Thunberg was granted
future generations.
days in office, Donald Trump announced that the U.S. would be leaving the ParisAgreement. Instead of acknowledging climate change as a global crisis along with the rest of the U.N., this act from Trump along with many other remarks he has made regarding our environment has turned the U.S. into an international spectacle as we continue to ignore cautions from scientists. For example, in early November 2020 Trump threatened to fire Dr. Fauci, who has advised six presidents on global health issues and has been the lead voice in advising the American public on the true nature of the COVID-19 pandemic. Two years after pulling out announcing America would be leaving the Paris Agreement in September of 2019, Swedish teenage climate activist Greta Thunberg was asked to make a speech in front of the U.N. and Congress. She spoke eloquently and with purpose, drilling her message into the politicians in front of her as she spoke. “I should be back at school on the other side of the ocean. Yet, you all come to us young people for hope,” she said. “How dare you? You have stolen my dreams and my childhood with your empty words.”“I should be back at school on the other side of the ocean. Yet, you all come to us young people for hope,” she said. “How dare you? You have stolen my dreams and my childhood with your empty words.”
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Time Magazine’s Person of the Year award. Again, the President of the United States slandered the young girl on Twitter.
FLASH MAGAZINE The choices we make on a daily basis are still important, but we can no longer pretend that separating our paper and plasHow are we, as a country, supposed to even attempt reversing the damage we have caused to our planet? How do we know where to even begin doing so when our own leader doesn’t even believe in climate change’s existence and would rather spend his time bullying a teenager online than making positive change
tics from our trash or using a reusable straw in our iced coffees are what will salvage the planet for our children and grandchildren﹣ the small, environmentally conscious choices we make in our day-to-day lives are not making the positive impact that we think they are, and we need to turn that around.
for the citizens he is meant to be serving?
We can reverse this destruction by holding these firms account-
We never got the chance to have the childlike innocence we
allow these companies to go on as they are, our planet’s death
were promised, because in the digital age the world’s problems
date will draw nearer and we will be left with an apocalyptic
are thrust into our faces without hesitation or warning.
world: scarce food, unlivable climates, lack of plant life, and ter-
able and demanding the same of our leaders. If we continue to
This responsibility we have felt our whole life to fix the world
rible air quality.
was made physical this past September, with an installation of
In a world of seven and a half billion people, our voices togeth-
an ominous clock perched in Manhattan’s Union Square which
er will always resonate more than if they are divided, and we
counted down the time remaining until we are faced with irre-
should all be demanding together that these institutions con-
versible climate disaster. With the creation of this doomsday
vert to renewable energy in order to save our planet.
countdown, we are left feeling anxious and asking where we can start to help save our home.
One of the most vital ways that we can make a difference in
In recent years, there has been a surge of sustainable living be-
responsible for creating policy on climate within our own nation
coming ‘trendy:’ from reusable water bottles, straws, and gro-
and with others internationally, we are responsible for deciding
cery bags, to the bans on plastic, and growing popularity of
who does. It is crucial that we vote for candidates who support
electric vehicles.
or have comprehensible climate policies, and especially one
America is by using our vote. Though the average person is not
According to an analysis by Richard Heele at the Climate ccountability Institute in the US, there are 20 companies that have contributed to 35% of global carbon emissions since 1965, and just 100 companies have contributed to 71% of these emis-
who believes that climate change exists in the first place. We can use our voices to protest peacefully, contact our legislators, and most importantly ensure that we elect leaders who will help us save our planet.
sions.
The results of upcoming elections are crucial in a multitude of
In short, seven and a half billion people will pay the price of a
ways, but they will also determine the future of our planet. Or if
destroyed planet just so the rich can get richer.
our planet will have a future at all.
As scary as those numbers are, we can keep carrying on making fine choices in our day to day lives and hope it makes an impact,
E
eyes.
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a difference and investing in the future, but we must open our
RE G T
a task that made us all feel good, like we were actually making
TG
REEN PLA
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into landfills, burned, or even stockpiled. Recycling was always
REEN P LA
recycle is no longer being accepted, and are instead dropped
ET G
Recent investigations found that the majority of the plastic we
PL
AN
right? Unfortunately, that is no longer enough.
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GREE N
Words by: Sydney Champagne Graphics by: Christiana Im
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NO. 15
A long-lasting wardrobe: How the events of 2020 will change fast-fashion Words by: Marissa Lambert
In times of chaos and uncertainty, we crave simple
things that offer a sense of familiarity. Our world slows down, and we are reminded of the importance of certain
1.
Basics will be favored over trends First, a downturned economy means more saving and less
values: being there for our friends and family, supporting
spending, and ultra-consumerism will be put on hold while
our communities, and celebrating the hard work of those
the population navigates the economic perils of an ongoing pan-
who fight to protect us. Even if for a short period, we shed
demic. Even if Americans become more liberal with their spend-
our individualistic tendencies and mold into a collectivist
ing, they will be making smarter choices. Quality sweaters will be
society. This holds true today just as it did during previous
chosen over cheaply-made, frilly blouses, and a robust pair of dark-
times of hardship in America, including wars and wide-
wash jeans will be chosen over a pair of checkered pants: “Less
spread financial crises. Periods of economic hardship bring
disposable income means less money to throw away on clothing
humility and modesty to the forefront of society, while loud,
each season, and priority will go to clothes that will be fashion-
boastful expressions of wealth and privilege fall to the
able longer than a couple of months,” says Allison Pfingst, advisor
wayside.
of the Fashion Studies department at Fordham. The name of the
In the midst of the pandemic, fashion is no different.
game will be “investment pieces”, and consumers will be thinking about the long-term utility of their purchases moving forward.
Just as American consumerism changed following the crises of the 1900s, Covid-19 has drastically changed our spending habits. Now, a majority of our purchases are made online rather than in-store, we order take-out or eat in instead of dining at our favorite restaurants, and the only way to view entertainment is through our TV screens. It’s a
2.
Fashion will become more subtle and less flashy It is not that fashion-forward pieces will be looked down upon, but they will be seen as unnecessary. When a majority of
no-frills marketplace for the time being, whether by choice
Americans are focused on wellness, mental health, and being there
or by force.
for their loved ones, being flashy with your money feels at best, silly,
Unsurprisingly, these changes have found their way into
and at worst, insensitive. Looking to the future, Natalie Nudell, a fash-
the present-day clothing industry—an industry dominated by fast-fashion. With nowhere to go, there’s little demand for new, seasonal pieces. If past trends of simplicity are any indication of the future, consumers will soon turn away from trendy, short-term designs, and embrace long-lasting
ion and textile historian at the Fashion Institute of Technology, predicts that “We’ll see cultural mores about displaying wealth or status change when so many people are out of work.” Further, minimalist styles are likely to see a surge, just as they did in 2008: “Minimalism was also a hallmark of the clothing that came out of the Recession.
wardrobe staples.
Everlane pushed elevated basics, like simple T-shirts and navy sweat-
Here’s a look at how the fashion landscape will likely
go for the foreseeable future (besides the occasional outdoor brunch),
change, based on historical trends of spending and consumer habits during a time of global upheaval.
ers,” reports Vox. Coupled with the fact that there will be few places to buying a statement piece can seem futile. Sure, that red velvet jumper might be the perfect outfit for your annual Christmas party, but it will not do you any good sitting in the back of your closet until next year. If anything, 2020 has been helpful for bringing us back to our roots and
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reminding us that “less is more,” even in fashion.
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3.
More purchases will be made at a community level with an emphasis on supporting BIPOC businesses
Moving forward
Aside from economic changes, the fashion landscape will
that prompted major industry changes throughout the
Reflecting on recent world events, in addition to the events
likely benefit from the effects of activism. The summer of 2020
1900s, there is a common theme: mindfulness.
awakened younger generations to the impact of their daily choices
Social upheaval makes us forget about the minutiae of ev-
and how their purchasing power can be used to better their com-
eryday life, like having the pair of boots that everyone seems
munities. The events of this past summer also put an emphasis
to have. Instead, it forces us to think in a broader sense and
on supporting Black-owned businesses, as interest in Black-owned
paint in abstract strokes—strokes of how we want to save
shops and restaurants on Yelp increased in June and July by
our one and only planet, support the people in our commu-
7,000% when compared to the same time last year. Further, people
nities, and ease the plight of workers thousands of miles
were forced to turn their attention to the environment as wildfires
away. Changes are happening, and we can continue the
ravaged the West Coast and turned the sky orange. Millennials and
momentum by shopping locally, seeking out Black-owned
Gen Z, the two biggest supporters of fast-fashion, are now thinking
businesses to support, and adding more environmentally
about the bigger picture—making smarter consumer choices in
friendly pieces to our wardrobe. A sense of responsibility
order to support the causes they believe in.
arises in times like these, and luckily for us, moving towards sustainable fashion is an easy, yet giant step forward.
4.
Natural materials like cotton and linen will become more popular Through educating ourselves, we are now aware that
inexpensive, stylish clothing comes at the expense of garment workers and the environment. The often terrible offshore working conditions faced by garment workers has only been made worse by the pressure to move a design from the sketchpad to the store in as little as three weeks. Also, the constant churning out of trends means factories are working around the clock, dumping carbon emissions into the atmosphere at an unprecedented rate. Reliance on polyester and other synthetic fibers to keep costs low has only exacerbated environmental damage, as polyester is not biodegradable. It actually requires more energy to produce than other long-lasting fabrics like cotton, and emits thousands of microplastics into the air and water when washed. Fast-fashion is one of the worst offenders in creating microplastic pollution, and it’s seeping into our oceans and harming our marine life. However, consumers are taking notice, and a shift towards sustainability— coupled with the foreseeable rise in minimalism—will likely bring about a return to natural fabrics like cotton and linen: “Simple sheath dresses, tees, wide-leg pants, and humble jeans in rustic fabrics like linen and cotton have so far been popular only with a certain subset of minimalist, sustainable influencers. But you’ll probably start seeing them even on the most high-end influencers soon,” says Nudell.
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The Gentrification of Words by: Thrift Marissa Lambert Shopping Graphics by: Ruby Lee
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Fashion is constantly evolving, but this evolution goes beyond
the clothes we wear. As consumers have grown more aware of the environmental effects of producing clothes, they have leaned towards sustainable fashion, especially in the form of thrifting. In recent years, thrift stores have skyrocketed in popularity. Not only are physical stores like Goodwill seeing a rise in customers, but online resale apps like thredUP and Poshmark are seeing a rise in users as well (Fortune). In many ways, the growing popularity of thrift stores is a step in the right direction for the clothing industry—an industry plagued with issues like high levels of pollution and dangerous factory conditions for workers. It also counteracts the detrimental effects of fast fashion, allowing consumers to stay on trend without heading to ZARA every few weeks. However, this new fascination for thrifting is not without its downsides. This newfound trend poses problems for lower income families and individuals who rely on second-hand stores to find button-downs and blouses for their job interviews, or to simply feel confident in on-trend clothes. While affluent members of Gen Y and Gen Z turn to consignment shops to further
The gentrification of thrift stores has drastically driven up prices,
build their wardrobes, others turn to these stores out of necessity. With
with some pieces selling at or above retail value. On sites like Depop,
every additional person scouring the racks for a vintage piece, there are
items from popular brands are quickly bought by resellers who put
fewer styles and sizes available for those who rely on these stores to get
them back on the market at a steep price to turn a profit. Essentially,
by. Worse, however, are the soaring prices.
modern, on-trend pieces that used to sell for $5 are now selling for $35, making it increasingly difficult for shoppers to find quality items at a low cost. Over the next few years, the resale market is expected to grow even more. ThredUP’s 2020 Resale Report projects that within the next 5 years, the industry will hit $64 billion. In fact, 2019 saw the resale industry grow 25 times faster than the retail industry. The ongoing effects of the pandemic are also expected to maintain the resale sector’s growth over the coming years as the economy heals. It is clear that thrifting is here to stay, but unless we find a way to control the market and even out the playing field, second-hand shopping could end up doing more harm than good. It is up to us to shop responsibly, which means limiting our time at thrift stores and paying more when we can afford to do so—because every member of our community deserves to feel good in the clothes they wear, at a price they can afford.
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PHOTOS BY: DEVIN LYON MODELED BY: TIERAN HORTON, MICAELINA CARTER, JEREMIAH MOOREHEAD STYLING BY: DEVIN LYON CREATIVE DIRECTION: DEVIN LYON
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credits Culture The case for feeling it all Layout Designer: Bawila Idris
Hello my name is? Layout Designer: Christiana Im
Imprisoned in Beauty: The Magnetism of Liza Lou’s Impractical Kitchen Layout Designer: katie schulte
Art Beyond the Canvas Layout Designer: Ruby Lee
Fashion The Show goes on Layout Designer: Christiana Im
What Does it Mean to be a Savage Layout Designer: Trey Sullivan Images taken from: Savage x Fenty Show 2020
The Ugly Side: How the Pandemic Has Revealed Systemic Inequality Within the Fashion Industry Layout Designer: Bawila Idris Receipt Illustration by: Nadine Gerber
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Beauty Femininity Through My Hair Layout Designer: Celia Patterson
@ellessentially_ feature Layout Designer: Celia Patterson
Ugly Makeup
Layout Designer: Celia Patterson Image top left / bottom right sourced: @sugaronyoursouls Image bottom middle sourced: @eszterdomonkosmua Image bottom right sourced: @maretubalwht
Naturally Glowing: Redefining Your Skincare Routine Layout Designer: Ruby Lee
Opinions Ging Home Start up Layout Designer: Bawila Idris
Big Business and Major Politicians are Killing Our Planet: What Can We Do? Layout Designer: Christiana Im
Albeck-ripka, Livia. “Your Recycling Gets Recycled, Right? Maybe, or Maybe Not.” The New York Times, The New York Times, 29 May 2018, www.nytimes.com/2018/05/29/climate/recycling-landfills-plastic-papers.html. Whitcomb, Isobel. “How Much Plastic Actually Gets Recycled?” LiveScience, Purch, 7 Mar. 2020, www.livescience.com/ how-much-plastic-recycling.html. “Anthony S. Fauci, M.D., NIAID Director.” National Institute of Allergy and Infectious Diseases, U.S. Department of Health and Human Services, www.niaid.nih.gov/about/director.
A long-lasting wardrobe: How the events of 2020 will change fast-fashion Layout Designer: Bawila Idris
Gentrification of thrift stores Layout Designer: Ruby Lee
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