THE FLUX ISSUE
SPRING | SUMMER 2018 NO. 11
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Ruby Buddemeyer
CREATIVE DIRECTOR Emma Childs
FASHION EDITOR Franchesca Sampeur
BEAUTY EDITOR Olivia Lucas
CULTURE EDITOR Karen Kapoor
ONLINE EDITOR Katie Coombs
ASST. FASHION EDITOR Peri Rohl
ASST. BEAUTY EDITOR Samantha Wei
ASST. CULTURE EDITOR Sophie Ambro
ASST. ONLINE EDITOR Alyana Vera
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FASHION
07 Redefining Gender Fluidity 11 All Hail Queen Kamie 17 Social Change is Not a Fashion Trend 19 How Everlane is Revolutionizing Ethical Standards in Fashion Retail 23 Transition Outfits 27 Spring Awakening 31
BEAUTY
33 5 Beauty Gurus to Watch in 2018 39 Makeup as a Means of Self-Expression 41 Boys Will Be Beauty Buffs 43 Beauty in 2018: Exclusivity is Unacceptable 45 The Science Behind Your Aging Skin 47 Worth the Hype? 49
CULTURE
52 How Hollywood Has Changed for the Better 53 How to be More than a Clicktivist 55 Catch the Wave 57 Unapologetic Women in Music 59 You’re Born Naked and the Rest is Drag 61 City Serenity 71
EDITORIAL
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editor’s letter The end of the 2017-18 academic year is particularly bittersweet for the FLASH editorial board — as the semester comes to a close, half of our wonderful, incredibly hard-working staff will be graduating. When we first set out to structure this issue — which, for many of us, is our last — we found ourselves circling back to the idea that we’re all in period of flux. Not only is our e-board literally restructuring and transitioning, but we’re watching first-hand as the young, growing members of the fashion, culture and beauty-obsessed community evolves. The following pages explores the many sides of flux — our editors, writers, and contributors have traced the ways in which fashion has transformed into a powerful player in social activism, how consumers have fought back against shade-exclusivity in cosmetics, how the film industry has finally allowed women to speak up and be heard, and so much more. Without further ado, The Flux Issue — we hope you enjoy each and every page as much as we do.
RUBY BUDDEMEYER Your Editor-in-Chief
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FASHION Clean. It’s normally what you’re supposed to do in spring. Clean up your closet, your finances, your locker, or dorm. But this season, FLASH Fashion recognized the industry needed a clean slate. Ahead, we’ve highlighted the many changes occuring in fashion — from continuing the conversation of challenging gender norms to recognizing the season’s latest trends while balancing the need for socially conscious consumerism. As you read through the perspectives we’ve curated for our Flux issue, our hope is that you’ll bloom wherever you’re planted.
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REDEFINING
GENDER y t i luid
F
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by: Nishita Naga
Gender fluidity is arguably an identity discovered in
fashion. There is absolutely no reason that its expression should not be, at some level, attributed to the runway. Designers like Vivienne Westwood, who displayed her frock collection on male models for her Spring/Summer 2015 collection, and Alessandro Michele for Gucci in 2015, provided a platform for genderfluid expression. More recently, the Fall 2017 Public School and Thom Browne presentations were applauded in their coverage. As these designers used their influence to spread the idea of blurred lines between gendered clothing, the concept, however, seems to be used to make a brand more likeable. Gender fluid representation can no longer be just putting skirts on men and having them walk a women’s runway. The idea itself is revolutionary but it has been branded by high fashion as a concept that advertises diversity of the high class. The reality for many adolescents and adults is that daring to express themselves as gender fluid can lead to abuse and danger. In 2017, Berkeley News reported that 50-70 percent of trans and gender-fluid teens experienced ten or more different types of aggression in their years of growth. Although general, the statistic covers a large percentage of gender-fluid teens that are shamed for expressing who they are in their everyday lives. This deters many from confidently challenging the rigid norms society has placed on them. By the same token, teens identifying as gender fluid or gender neutral, may not be able to afford these clothes or have access to the resources they need to express themselves. Brands that are dedicated to producing gender neutral clothing such as Diesel are typically priced at around $100 or more for a piece of clothing. Well-known brands like ASOS that are working towards gender-neutral clothing lines are not priced much lower than this—one article of clothing retails upwards of $40.
There is a very certain economic sector that can af-
ford the products offered by brands like ASOS and Diesel. So what about the gender-fluid teens that do not have the resources or parental support to afford
the clothing that allows them to express themselves the way they choose? Do they hide their identities as those with more resources than they can freely express themselves?
With
fashion continuing to represent gender neutrality and gender fluidity as much as possible in marketing campaigns and advertising new products, the public is fortunate to have role models in both modeling and brands that are careful to represent gender fluidity in a more genuine light—such as Ruby Rose, who has based the majority of her career on the freedom to change her appearance as she pleases without having to label it.Similarly, Elliott Sailors and Andrej/Andreja Pejic, both model under the label they deem fit, instead of restricting themselves to a male or female image. In the world of brands themselves, CoverGirl recently introduced James Charles as their first CoverBoy, and while the girl/ boy labels are still being used, the idea of the brand itself is changing. CoverGirl is spreading the message that the face of the brand is someone who represents beauty the way the company wishes to represent it, regardless of how they may identify.
Maybe the answer to a more universal opportunity to express oneself as gender fluid is allowing people the freedom to redefine gender norms themselves. There really is no such thing as dressing like a man or dressing like a woman—these terms are ones coined by society and they place clothing, as well as those who wear them, into boxes they may not necessarily fit in. On the other hand, blurring the lines is not accessible enough for everyone. Designs that are meant to be specifically gender neutral are far too expensive, but what if gender fluidity was the freedom to not have to choose to blur the lines of “men’s” or “women’s” fashion? Those who want to stick to what is traditionally called “women’s fashion” or “men’s fashion” should be given the freedom to do so, but those who identify differently should also be given the freedom to do as they wish. Gender fluidity does not have to be the blurring of gender lines—it can be the discarding of the construct itself.
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“MAYBE THE ANSWER TO A MORE UNIVERSAL OPPORTUNITY TO EXPRESS ONESELF AS GENDER FLUID IS ALLOWING PEOPLE THE FREEDOM TO REDEFINE GENDER NORMS THEMSELVES.”
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ALL
HAIL
QUEEN
KAMIE BY FRANCHESCA SAMPEUR
Chin up, darling, otherwise the crown falls. This seems to be Kamie Crawford’s mentality. If there’s one place you won’t find this media mogul in the making is, it’s looking at the ground—that is, unless she’s getting just the right angle for her next Instagram shot. As I enter the dining room of Soho House, the New York location of global private members club, I find Kamie seated in a nook by the window, perfectly situated for a view of the Meatpacking District, hard at work on her rose Macbook Pro. Sporting a chic slicked-down center part and bare, flawless face, she greets me with a warm hug and invitation to join her. As I nestle into my seat, I can see her cozy, gray cashmere sweater, fitted skinny jeans and knee-high black boots. Not one for coffee, Kamie both (literally) sips on and spills the proverbial tea. She may have passed on the title of Miss Teen USA in 2011, but this Fordham Alumna continues to reign supreme in the world of fashion, beauty, and entertainment. In July 2010, Kamie was crowned the new Miss Teen USA. The beauty queen of only 17 (Maroon 5, anyone?) emerged victorious out of 49 other top teen contestants from across the country. Being a national title holder for the Miss Universe Organization was the beginning of a personal and professional transformation, she says. The Potomac, Maryland native said moving to Alabama following the end of her reign was one of the biggest risks she’s taken thus far.
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During her freshman year at University of Alabama, Kamie pursued the Pre-Med track towards a career in dermatology. However, the world of beauty and fashion she experienced as Miss Teen USA was a path she couldn’t leave unpursued. After realizing Alabama wasn’t the right fit for her, Kamie transferred to Fordham Lincoln Center. Post graduating with a Bachelor of Arts in Communications and Media Studies, Kamie curated her career as a body positive, diversity advocate through her social media platforms as an influencer. “I don’t change for anyone. I’m always the same,” she tells me. Influencers—they’re just like us. No, but actually. It becomes clear that authenticity is more a mantra than momentary buzzword when scrolling through Kamie’s feeds—and, yes, that’s feed(s), plural. On her personal Instagram, @therealkamie, you’ll be treated to selfie game realness, serving LEWKS in chic fashion finds, and the latest in beauty. Dropping the facade of the social media fantasy through honest interaction with her followers—more than 73,000 across her Instagram, Twitter and Youtube platforms—not only does Kamie strive for “genuine [and] realness”, she thrives as an advocate for body positivity, inclusivity, and representation. She seamlessly transfers these messages across two other handles, @shopnoxlife and @evolvaroundtheworld. During her time as a Fordham Ram, Kamie created luxury lifestyle brand Nox—while simultaneously producing her televised docuseries F-in-Fabulous on BET. Originally focused on sleep tees, the ever-expanding brand now features jewelry, slides and tech accessories. On being an entrepreneuHER, the original #NOXBABE mentions it has its ups and downs, as does any business venture, but she creates products that remain true to her taste and relatable to her followers. “There’s nothing worse than the women in your family talk about the dreams that they missed out on,” Kamie explains. As a self-proclaimed, extremely self-aware Scorpio, being in tune with her emotions allows her to know what she wants out of life.
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“I don’t change for anyone.
I’m always the same.”
Contrary to the wise words of Fergie, big girls do cry— but on her rough days, the Crawford family keeps Kamie going. Kamie is a 25-year-old working woman who is steadfast in going after what she wants and driven by actualizing her dreams not only for herself but for her four younger sisters. “Revolve means to turn in circles whereas evolve means to develop gradually with time,” she says. With the emergence of @evolvaroundtheworld, Kamie is continuing to move the conversation of diversity and inclusion forward. In addition to being the creative force behind luxury lifestyle brand NOX and her personal social media accounts, Kamie also established @Evolvaroundtheworld on Instagram to recognize influencers of color. The name draws inspiration from popular e-commerce retailer, Revolve Clothing, who has come under fire for lack of inclusivity in their influencer partnerships. Revolve is known for sponsoring international trips promoted under the hashtag #Revolvearoundtheworld featuring predominately white influencers on their feed. “When you tap into who you actually are, that resonates with people,” says Kamie. From the moment you’re five years old, people are asking you what do you want to be when you grow up? We’re in college now and many of us still don’t know the answer to that question. Kamie says she’s always striving higher but now recognizes the need to appreciate the present moment. If there’s one thing she’s learned, it’s that time is fleeting and before you know it you’re onto the next phase of your life. However, Kamie’s accomplishments are anything but a phase. As a fashion influencer, beauty expert, TV producer, EntrepreneuHER, and model who values spirituality and the love found in genuine connections, Kamie is unstoppable.
•
“That’s my tea,” Kamie says as we conclude our time together. With input this good, you can continue to spill the tea any day.
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SOCIAL CHANGE IS NOT A FASHION TREND BY PERI ROHL
Over the past few years, historic social movements on gender, equality, feminism, representation, race, and many other issues have become a focal point in our everyday lives. No longer are these subjects taboo, but are finally released from the box in which they have been confounded for years. People from all over the world are coming together to revolutionize the way in which things are talked about, changed, and implemented—and the fashion industry has taken notice. In an effort to appear more socially aware, brands and fashion houses have created clothing items to show an interest in the philanthropy of socially charged fashion. Last season’s Dior collection included shirts that said “We Should All Be Feminists.” After facing some scrutiny on the capitalization of a social movement, Dior donated a portion of the proceeds to Rihanna’s Clara Lionel Foundation, an organization focused on providing education and health care to lower-income countries. Though these shirts sparked a conversation and highlighted the movement, the shirts were limited edition, exclusive, and expensive. Shouldn’t feminism be forever and free? Celebrities wore the shirts in public and spread the message of feminism, but, like any trend, Dior’s shirt fizzled out. Was their creation enough to insight more change? Any step to further a movement should be endless and eternal, not just for a season. Not all feminist fashion is created for the short term. Online fashion brand Dazey LA was established for the sole purpose of creating empowering t-shirts and accessories for all genders. Creator Danielle Nagel combined her passion of feminism, business, and art to establish her company. All the items available for purchase are hand drawn, made by women, and contain a powerful,
girl boss attitude. Trendy style shirts with flowing sleeves, turtlenecks, muscles tee, and halters contain messages such as “Females Are Strong As Hell,” “Pretty Powerful,” “Eq-ALL-ity,” and many more inspirational phrases. Posters, bags, jackets, and other items can be found with the same ’70s inspired graphic designs. In addition to Dazey LA’s own designs, they carry apparel and accessories made by other female entrepreneurs. They make sizes for everyone and anyone, and the brand shows no sign of stopping production any time soon.
“It
is not enough just to wear
a shirt or put a poster on a wall, people need to take action in their communities, organize information sessions, and maintain their voice in the conversation—not just project an image to the public.”
Though fashion inspired by social change can spark conversation, continue the cause, and get others interested, what is the motive behind the message? Fashion is very see and be seen, so are the feminist shirts just a way of projecting an image? Do people who buy these products think that is enough to take a stand? In order to make true social change happen, action must be taken. It is not enough just to wear a shirt or put a poster on a wall, people need to take action in their communities, organize information sessions, and maintain their voice in the conversation—not just project an image to the public.
Another company that uses fashion to promote social change is MY SISTER, an online community that produces clothing and accessories to end sex trafficking. Based in Minneapolis, 10% of MY SISTER purchases go directly to non-profits whose main goals are to spread awareness of sex trafficking and add aftercare programs for victims of sexual exploitation. In addition, the money made by this company is invested to provide jobs for survivors. Since its creation in 2015, MY SISTER has donated $127,800 to non-profit partners and has logged 3431 hours of survivor employment. Ethically made and sourced, their products range in sizes and are available to everyone. Their websites features women of all races, religions, sizes, and shapes. Their products feature statements such as “I Believe Her,” “It’s My Body. It’s My Choice,” “Stop Trafficking.” Actress Amber Tamblyn currently has a relationship with the brand; her #ChoirUp collection features totes,
clothing, and accessories with empowering statements against sex trafficking. 25% of the proceeds goes directly to funding GEMS, Girls Educational and Mentoring Services’ (GEMS), an organization designed to help women and girls exit the sex trafficking industry and reach their full potential through empathetic and consistent guidance. Any social movement calls for long-lasting and sustainable change. Though fashion may help in making movements tangible, it is the use of these fashion items that makes the change powerful. It is not enough just to wear an article of clothing; social change can only happen when people work together to create a better future. So take action. Wear the shirts, shout statements of empowerment, and never stop because if you are what you wear, you better dress for the part you want. Let’s be on the side of creating and sustaining a lasting part of history.
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How Everlane Is Revolutionizing Ethical Standards in Fashion Retail BY CONNOR HOWLETT
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Founded in 2011, Everlane entered the fashion retail world with a unique goal: radical transparency. To separate themselves from the competition, Everlane decided to be open about how and where their products were created; with this new approach to retail, they have enticed a younger, more progressive consumer. Millennials love to feel like their purchases are going towards a good cause, and Everlane has made it their mission to embody this phenomenon. In addition to the company’s ethical production methods, Everlane also created “100% Human”, a line of minimalist tees and sweatshirts in which each sale results in a donation to various activist organizations in the United States, including the ACLU, Human Rights Campaign, and Equality Now. Everlane has become synonymous with ethical fashion. The brand’s website features a “Factories” tab on the main banner that takes you to an interactive map, where visitors can see information about factories across four continents where Everlane products are produced. Beyond location, these pages include information about the owners of the factories, labor conditions and employee values, and pictures of the factories at work. Unlike other popular retailers, Everlane has no qualms about putting their production cycle on display for the world to see.
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“To separate themselves from the competition, Everlane decided to be open about how and where their products were created.”
Several companies made this evident at the Dhaka Apparel Summit, an annual conference hosted by the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association. Sustainability, factory conditions, and innovations for cleaner production are amongst the topics on the summit’s agenda. While these issues clearly apply to fast fashion, the government in Bangladesh has recently started obstructing the goals of labor groups and factory owners alike. In the summer of 2017, Gap, H&M, and Zara consequently decided not to attend the summit, showing a clear stand against poor working conditions experienced by factory employees in countries like Bangladesh. A few years prior, H&M also launched their “H&M Conscious Exclusive Collection,” a set of garments produced from recycled materials. Gap followed suit in 2017 launching “Gap for Good,” an effort to make clothes with as little impact on the environment as possible. This included making clothes using sustainable materials and recycled water as well as reducing the emission of greenhouse gases by installing LED lighting in more than 100 retail locations throughout North America. In addition to information on their factories, Everlane also includes pricing information at the bottom of each page. An infographic includes the price of the following items: materials, hardware, labor, duties, and transport. Each of these is added up to total the clothing item’s “true cost,” allowing customers to see how much profit Everlane is making off of each sale. The infographic also highlights the “traditional retail” price of a comparable item at other stores, showing Everlane’s commitment to keeping prices low for consumers. Fast fashion is, currently, the predominant global retail model where companies produce a high volume of garments at a low cost, with a rapid turnover to remain relevant within ever-changing fashion trends. Companies like H&M, Zara, Forever21, and Gap, among others, thrive off this model. However, in recent years, fast fashion fell behind the trend, coming under fire for unethical business practices, particularly labor exploitation and environmental damage. These companies adopted practices and models Everlane had been using for years, showing how ahead of the ethical curve the brand truly was. In the last two years, these companies have started making strides towards sustainability.
Everlane’s CEO Michael Preysman went on record saying, “We are going to shut the company down before we go to physical retail.” Preysman launched Everlane as an e-commerce brand in 2011, and as its popularity grew, customers and critics alike began to pressure the company about the prospects of opening a brick-and-mortar store. Fast-forward to the Fall of 2017, and Preysman translated the concept of transparency into physical form with Everlane’s first physical retail location in New York City’s Nolita neighborhood. In December 2017, the glass front store opened to the public, and Everlane built on the momentum of their first opening with another in the company’s home city, San Francisco, this past March. Everlane has shifted away from focusing solely on profit margins and this company’s ‘radical’ approach is not only focused on the environment, it is about the customer- a personal touch and intentionality rarely found in an often impersonal and trend chasing world of retail. As Everlane continues to expand, it remains dedicated to promoting its core values and providing the same products its consumers have grown to love over the last seven years.
TRANSITION OUTFITS By Sibel Iskender and Nina Avroneva On days when time seems to slip right by, it can be hard to think of a new outfit with seconds to spare. Between exams, work, and internships, sometimes style becomes secondary. Here are 6 ways you can easily take your day time look and make it ready for a night out. Athleisure Athleisure has been a huge trend the past two years; Fashion month showcasing even more athletic inspired pieces, the trend does not seem to be slowing down. The great thing about athleisure is its versatility, with just a few outfit tweaks you can easily change up your look from day to night.
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Trousers are a huge staple in the trend and with an oversized hoodie, sneakers and a pair of sunglasses you’ll be strolling into class looking effortlessly fresh. An easy switch to a night look: switch out the sneakers for ankle boots, the hoodie to a fitted crop top, add a statement necklace and fitted blazer and you’re set for a night out. Wide Leg Trousers Skinny jeans are still very much a thing, but give your legs some breathing room in a chic pair of wide-leg trousers. Go for a monochromatic look with a solid colored t-shirt or turtleneck— depending on the weather—and
matching wide-leg trousers. For a softer touch, there’s always millennial pink, or for the bold, try a bright red or cobalt blue monochrome look. For the night time switch up, grab a pair of metallic ankle boots with a tight, v-neck cami and fur jacket. Outerwear Outerwear is one of the best and simplest ways to change up a look from day to night. Bombers are made in every fit, color, and design imaginable, which make them not only a closet staple but also a go-to transformative piece. The color and fit of a bomber can completely switch up your look from running errands to dining
out. Throw an oversized bomber over a fitted tank with army pants, a pair of Nikes, and a baseball hat and you’re set to run around the city with style and ease. Need to transition into a night look but running low on time and ideas? Switch the bomber to a black colorway and a tighter fit, swap the sneakers for a pair of pumps, a throw on a statement lip and slicked-back ponytail. Vintage Tee A vintage tee is a no brainer for those days you feel like there’s nothing to wear. For a daytime look, tuck your favorite band tee
into faded black jeans with a pair of Stan Smiths. Take this look into the evening by adding a lacy long sleeve layering top as the base under the tee, and tie the tee into a knot for a more flattering silhouette. Swap those sneakers for some platform boots and you’re ready for a night out. Bodysuits Bodysuits are one of the most transformative staple pieces. Elevate the look with a pair of cropped trousers and loafers for a day of work. For night, switch out the loafers for a pair of pointed heels. Add a thick choker and an
oversized denim jacket to give the outfit a lived-in silhouette. Button Downs Button downs are one of the most versatile staple pieces. Tuck half of the shirt into a pair of cropped trousers and loafers for a day of work. For the evening, switch out the loafers for a pair of pointed heels. Add a thick choker and a leather jacket to toughen the look. Sundresses Sundresses are the lazy-girl’s-sans-pants dream. For daytime, let the dress stand alone with some white sneakers. For night, add a leather jacket to contrast feminine florals with an amplified touch.
TOP 5 THINGS TO REMEMBER WHEN TRANSFORMING A LOOK FROM DAY TO NIGHT:
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The fit of a piece can easily change a look from comfortable 8:30AM class outfit to an edgy night look. On top of it fitting correctly, remember to add more accessories to transform an outfit.
2
An accessory is sometimes all you need for a quick day-to-night adjustment. Switch the studs to a bold and colorful tassel earring or a simple necklace to a chunky chain or a choker.
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Outerwear is a fun and simple way to change up a look. You can change up the fit of a coat, from a boxy denim jacket to a statement PVC trench. Don’t be afraid to layer up, in any season. Outerwear is a perfect way to show off your style.
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If you’re in a fashion funk and can’t figure out a transition between day and night, an easy way to switch it up is through makeup. A bold lip and some liner can quickly take a casual outfit to a night out.
5
The most basic and simple pieces are the easiest to transition. Stick to pieces like a white t-shirt, medium wash jeans, and little black dresses as your go-to day tonight looks.
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springawakening 28.
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BEAUTY With change at the forefront of our minds right now, it’s no surprise that the beauty industry is following suit. 2018 has marked a major shift in the industry’s standard for inclusivity — at last, it’s no longer acceptable to release limited shade ranges or cast all-white models in ad campaigns. In this section, we explore every changing aspect of beauty, tracing our favorite new products, influencers, trends, and so much more.
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5 Beauty Gurus to Watch in 2018
By Grace Clark
It’s 2018 and society’s perception of beauty has come a long way. Although standards and ideas can always improve, it is largely considered unacceptable and unrealistic to think of beauty in one, exclusionary way. The beauty industry mimics our society’s changing views. In our social media-dominated age, beauty gurus and influencers on YouTube have a huge impact on consumers’ knowledge of brands, products, and perceptions of beauty. YouTubers who defy “old-fashioned” beauty standards such as fair and clear skin, slim bodies, and sleek hair, are gaining popularity. They are able to give viewers the confidence they need to accept their own beauty through the representation of all types of beauty. Inclusivity continues to grow at the hands of hardworking YouTubers, other creators, consumers, and brands alike. If you’re looking for an inspiring beauty space in 2018, here are five outspoken beauty YouTubers to watch now.
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NYMA TANG: Instagram, Twitter: @nymatang
Nyma is in the spotlight for her video series called “The Darkest Shade.” As a woman with dark skin, she speaks about how she was bullied in high school over her skin tone, and how it is still difficult for her because many makeup brands do not cater to people with skin as dark as hers. Her series tests the darkest shade of foundation made by various cosmetics brands to see if it is dark enough for her. She’s gained almost 500,000 subscribers in the past year and SocialBlade projects Nyma to gain another 400,000 in 2018.
Em Ford: Instagram, Twitter: @mypaleskinblog This beauty guru speaks out about feeling comfortable in her skin. She struggles with cystic acne and loves to help her subscribers find products that can help them feel confident in their own skin and to feel beautiful without makeup. Her famed video—with 27 million views— “You Look Disgusting” preached how important it is to be kind on the Internet and how everyone is beautiful with or without makeup. Since that video in 2015, she’s gained 850,000 subscribers; she now has a following of 1 million subscribers. She’s projected to grow another 37,000 in the next year (SocialBlade).
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RAW BEAUTY KRISTI: Instagram, Twitter: @rawbeautykristi Kristi uses her channel to speak about body positivity and health-related issues such as eating disorders, infertility, and chronic pain. She prides herself on giving honest makeup reviews and making her viewers feel comfortable in the space she has created on the Internet. In the past year, she’s gained roughly 200,000 subscribers and is projected (SocialBlade) to gain another 630,000 subscribers in the year to come.
jackie aina:
.. .
Instagram, Twitter: @jackieaina
Not only does Jackie promote and empower Black Owned Makeup Brands (B.O.M.B.) on her channel, but she also critiques non inclusive brands and gives feedback on how they improve to create makeup for everyone. Her honesty and humor have gained her a significant following in the past few years. Aina currently has 2.1M subscribers. Her large platform enables her to be a representative for people of color. She was recently in the spotlight for her Tarte Shape Tape foundation review. In the video, Aina collaborated with Alissa Ashley to display how the foundation was made for people with light skin, and how the shade range is unacceptable for large brands to release. SocialBlade statistics project Jackie to gain another 2.4 million subscribers in the next year.
Alissa Ashley: Instagram: @alissa.ashley Twitter: @alissa_ashleyy
As a makeup artist of color, Alissa has gained followers from her series “Mystery Makeup Monday,” her Fenty Beauty videos (the first of which gained over a million views) and her Tarte Shape Tape Foundation review (which also garnered over 1 million views). Alissa has also been featured on Fenty Beauty’s Instagram page. She’s doubled her subscribers in just one year, now amounting to almost 1.2 million. SocialBlade projects Alissa to gain around another 800,000 subscribers in the next year. .
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Makeup as
a Means of
Self-Expression By Isabella Logan The most fun part about makeup is that trends are always changing. Makeup is a creative way to display an individual’s personality or emotions, and trends have become a way that self-expression is fostered. This spring, express yourself with two current trends: bright colors and geometric designs. Brands such as Anastasia Beverly Hills, NYX, Too Faced, and Fenty have established a market of bright colors that are suitable for all skin tones. Their products are conducive to creating looks that match the trend; they are marketed to create bold and colorful eyeshadow looks and achieve a holographic cheek highlight.
Complete your eye look by using NYX Vivid Brights Liquid Liners. The eyeliners are easy to use and are great for graphic liner designs.
The trend was made popular by New York Fashion Week shows such as Rachel Comey and Tadashi Shoji. Additionally, beauty YouTubers like Tati Westbrook and Jkissa have shown these trends in action. This year is all about personalized, vivid expressionism. Here are the palettes I recommend to achieve the look.
For lips, use your favorite lipstick; any formula works with bold eyes. It is up to personal preference whether or not to pair the dramatic eyes with a dramatic lip as well. NYX’s lip products come in a wide variety of shades and finishes. If you prefer a glossy lip, apply Glossier lip gloss or the Fenty Gloss Bomb on top of any lip product.
Anastasia’s Subculture eyeshadow palette is a musthave for many beauty gurus like Samantha Ravndahl. The pallet is $42 and is available for purchase in both Sephora and Ulta. Two less expensive alternatives for the Subculture pallet are the Kara Cosmetics ES07 Palette and the NYX Perfect Filter Palette in Olive You. The days of nude and monochromatic makeup are gone. This palette’s distinct color profile ranges from greens to oranges to blues; the shades are perfect for pairing contrasting hues that will make your eyes pop.
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Fenty Beauty Freestyle Highlighters and Match Stix effortlessly highlight the face and have the ability to be built up for a dramatic look. These shimmery tones are highly pigmented and come in colors like Unicorn and Hyper-Metallic. Apply them generously on cheekbones and temples. Highlighter can be used to emphasize natural glow or compliment undertones of the overall makeup look.
Makeup can display your mood, but also has the ability to change it. I have found that confidence is best illustrated with a gold cheek highlight and blue or orange eyeshadow. Feeling flirty? Opt for softer pinks and glossier finishes. A red lip and bold eyeliner is the perfect combination for the ultimate power gaze. Whatever your mood, whatever your style, these products and designs are perfect to try out this season.
Boys Will Be Beauty Buffs By Gillian Russo Many makeup lovers can likely recall a time where they marveled at the highlight on a model at Sephora, or spent an hour (or maybe a few) in front of their laptops, watching tutorial after tutorial by various makeup gurus to achieve that perfect winged eyeliner. As of late, it’s just as likely that some of these models and makeup gurus have been male. Independent artists and major beauty names alike have banded together to bring attention to males in makeup. Tom Ford is one luxury designer who has prioritized the inclusion of men in his makeup. In 2015, Ford launched a “Lips and Boys” lipstick line, which portrayed male models in its ad campaign. According to the brand’s website, the launch included 50 shades and each was named after a man Ford admired and re-
spected. Now, a few years later, Ford’s new “Boys and Girls” campaign has officially hit the market. This line expands on the “Lips and Boys” line to include 50 more shades; this time, though, each shade is named for a woman who is dear to Ford. The ad campaign features a lineup of models of all genders, wearing various shades in the collection. Ford’s all-gendered campaigns are not the first of their kind in the beauty industry. They are, however, some of the only campaigns to advertise with men first and then later feature women. These ads represent part of a relatively young movement to create more inclusivity in the beauty industry and to normalize the use of makeup by anyone regardless of gender. This movement has grown and has been strengthened largely in part to the influence of social media. Media platforms have brought male artists not only to a public audience, but they have allowed these artists to collaborate with each other too. Benefit Cosmetics has recently expanded their ambassador group to include male artists who have both gained fame via Instagram and YouTube: James Charles and Patrick Starrr. Another artist, Manny Gutierrez, known professionally as Manny MUA, caught the attention of Maybelline with his fan-base of over four million subscribers. In 2017, Gutierrez became the brand’s first male ambassador. He has since collaborated with Jeffree Star and released a palette with the brand MakeupGeek.
The prevalence of men in makeup is not limited to America. British makeup artist Wayne Goss gained widespread attention after posting a Kim Kardashian contour tutorial on his YouTube channel. In addition to the freelance work he was already involved in before his YouTube fame, he now owns and operates his own selfnamed makeup brush line. Perhaps the most important reason for acknowledging the success of these men and their makeup is the fact that it calls upon the powerful influence of this generation. These countless media users, through seemingly minimal likes, comments, and clicks of a “subscribe” button, have now begun to create a culture around the acceptance of makeup as androgynous. Their efforts are manifested in the face of Manny Gutierrez on Maybelline racks at CVS stores, in Covergirl ads that now include “Coverboys”, and in a Tom Ford billboard near Columbus Circle that displays men in lipstick alongside female models, with no indication that such a display is anything but natural.
“...as male makeup artists gain traction through social media, and people become exposed to such artists from a younger age, there is hope for a fundamental change in the discourse surrounding makeup and gender.”
Of course with any movement comes criticism, and unfortunately, interspersed with comments of support, there will inevitably be comments of prejudice and hatred. But as male makeup artists gain traction through social media, and people become exposed to such artists from a younger age, there is hope for a fundamental change in the discourse surrounding makeup and gender. The fact that major beauty names like Tom Ford and Benefit have embraced males in their advertisements is a success in the fight for inclusion in the beauty industry. It’s up to makeup lovers of all genders to continue showing their support for each others’ self-expression.
BEAUTY IN 2018:
exclusivity is unacceptable By Olivia Lucas
The Tarte Shape Tape Concealer broke the internet after its release in 2016. The full coverage concealer hit the market and became an instantaneous “holy grail” for many beauty gurus who tried it. When Tarte announced the release of the Tarte Shape Tape Foundation in Fall 2017, the YouTube beauty community could not have been more thrilled. The excitement came to a sudden halt, however, when the shade range was made public. Out of 15 shades released, only three were suitable and marketed for people of color. A picture of swatches on a person of color circulated the internet via the website Popsugar. The swatches revealed that almost all of the shades were made for fair/ light skin tones, and that the darkest shades did not have the correct undertones for POC. Beauty YouTubers such as Jackie Aina and Alyssa Ashley held Tarte responsible for making a product specifically designed for light-skinned people. They collaborated on a video entitled “Black Girls React to Tarte Shape Tape Foundation,” where they swatched the product and read aloud the names of the shades to show the exclusivity of the release. Seven of the 15 shades contain the word “fair” or “light” in its title. The brand evidently spent its resources on producing foundations with various undertones for light-skinned people, but did not carry the same attention to its darker shades. It is impossible that all POC will be able to find a match, or even a close match, to one of these shades. Aina and Ashley demonstrate how the deepest shades do not have the appropriate undertones; they are orange in hue and act as color correctors rather than foundation.
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Tarte released a statement to Popsugar in January 2018 which announced that more shades will be released in the line. In other words, the lighter shades were more important to release first and POC are an afterthought. Large companies such as Tarte have a responsibility of inclusivity from initial release. Beauty gurus such as Tati Westbrook, Shaaanxo, and Samantha Ravndahl have refused to use the foundation on their channels and speak about a product that was clearly not made with everyone in mind. One of the earliest videos made critiquing the foundation was by Samantha Ravndahl. She describes how after the foundation was released, Tarte ran a giveaway on their Instagram page. To enter the giveaway, an Instagram user merely had to comment a palm tree emoji on one of their latest posts. Palm trees flooded the instagram page drowning out comments of discontent and frustration with the product and company. Although this is not a confirmed press tactic, the time of the giveaway was suspicious and inconsiderate, as Ravndahl points out. Fenty Beauty changed the beauty industry when Rihanna launched 40 shades of foundation from the very first day. The standard has been set, and with the noise made by the Shape Tape Foundation, it should be evident to brands that consumers are unwilling to compromise; we will not use a product if all people cannot use that product. The conversation started by the Tarte Shape Tape Foundation represents progress in the fight for inclusivity, but also the vast amount of work that still needs to be done in and out of the beauty community.
“ The standard has been set, and with the noise made by the Shape Tape Foundation, it should be evident to brands that consumers are unwilling to compromise; we will not use a product if all people cannot use that product.�
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The Science Behind Your Aging Skin By Eveline Murphy-Wilson
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CULTURE
A person’s skin is a reflection of their lifestyle choices. Do they eat well? Do they use sunscreen? Skin also reveals age. College students are at a point where age can begin to show on their skin, but what factors really influence the aging of our skin? Lifestyle and environmental factors are responsible for the skin’s premature aging. Much like the rest of the body, the skin needs to be maintained in order to keep it healthy. The sun is both necessary and dangerous for skin. Skin prematurely ages every time it is tanned or burned. Everyone’s skin has melanin, a pigment that protects the skin from ultraviolet (UV) rays. When the skin is burned, the melanin loses some of its elasticity and causes skin to look older prematurely. Premature aging due to the sun is called “photoaging” in the medical world. According to the U.S. Library of Medicine, it’s important to have exposure to sun and fresh air daily because the sun helps our skin produce Vitamin D, but “ultraviolet light can be very detrimental” to our skin. Too much exposure to the sun’s UV rays is the leading cause of skin cancer.
Dr. Manish Khanna, a dermatologist, wrote an article for The Huffington Post entitled “The Number One Cause of Skin Aging.” In it Dr. Khanna writes, “As a dermatologist, I have to warn you—there is no such thing as a ‘healthy glow’ from a suntan.” He explains how the sun dramatically speeds up the skin’s aging process. He illustrates, “Imagine the sun as the opposite of the fountain of youth.” He calls sun-induced aging “extrinsic aging” because it is caused by the environment and is preventable. When the skin is burned, the UV rays affect deep layers of skin cells, killing or damaging them, and preventing them from being able to protect the skin from the sun. Dr. Khanna explains that “your skin is like a daily diary that’s being kept from a very young age. It doesn’t forget—it keeps track.”
Some of the visible effects of photoaging include leathery skin, sunspots, wrinkled and or thin skin, and many others. Between the hours of 10 A.M. and 2 P.M., the sun’s UV rays can do the most damage. The U.S. Library of Medicine advises that people minimize their time in the sun during this period. The American Academy of Dermatology suggests that people wear sunscreen, or a moisturizer, with a minimum SPF 30 every day, because even just running errands exposes the skin to sun and can prematurely age it. Sun damage isn’t the only contributor to premature aging of skin. Some other influences include:
Repetitive Facial Movements—for example, when people walk in bright areas and squint, that movement is constricting muscles below the skin and the lines that form by that action become permanent. An easy solution to this is wearing sunglasses. Smoking Cigarettes—not only is it detrimental to our respiratory system, but it causes wrinkles and causes the skin to turn a yellow hue.
To keep our skin healthy it is crucial to hydrate and moisturize. It is recommended that people drink 64 ounces of water a day. Staying hydrated positively influences the appearance of the skin by making it appear plump and youthful. As summer approaches and people become eager to tan, it is important to remember the harmful effects of the sun on the skin, and to be proactive in applying sunscreen. Enjoy the beach, Sheep’s Meadow, and long warm walks in the New York summer, but not without skin protection!
worth the hype? putting two
Glossier products to the test BY SAMANTHA UMANI
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There is no brand more hyped on social media than Glossier. Friends and celebrities alike promoted and vouched for Glossier’s Solution Exfoliating Skin Perfector, but I was skeptical of the overtly marketed product. Would the product give me the results these people claimed it would? Or would it be a waste of money? After experiencing skin issues that would not cease, I decided to purchase Glossier’s Milky Jelly Cleanser and Solution to find out for myself. I have always had acne. It is something that I have always felt ashamed and insecure about. My previous routine consisted of Cetaphil Gentle Wash, micellar cleansing water, and a prescription-only topical cream.
These products worked on occasion, making me reluctant to alter my routine in any way. They cleansed thoroughly, but didn’t exfoliate or tone my skin—two crucial aspects of any skincare regimen. To my delight, I noticed an immediate difference in my skin after just one use of the Glossier duo. My skin became less red and there was a visible improvement in my skin’s moisture. I felt a newfound confidence after the first use and was elated that the products might actually work to clear up my acne. After 24 hours, my acne became less prominent and my skin felt smooth and hydrated. There was still some redness, but significantly less than it had ever been.
The Glossier Milky Jelly Cleanser and Solution deep cleaned my pores. The white heads that appeared signified that the process was working. Of course, no product can remove all signs of acne overnight, but I felt a newfound confidence in my appearance; I attributed this to the success of the Glossier products. The confidence translated to other areas of my life and I found an overall improvement in my mood. There is no miracle product, but using the correct products is a kind of miracle. I feel empowered to be myself. I no longer wish to compare my skin to others; my personal attitude towards myself, my situation, and my surroundings has all been enhanced simply through one impulse buy. The hyped brand lived up to its name.
CULTURE
This semester, we felt the first ripple of what is hopefully a wave of changes following the #MeToo movement that dominated the conversation of mainstream media in late 2017. In all corners of the cultural realm, we are seeing more women than ever before empowered to stand up and speak out. These movements that we are seeing in various fields of society are the result of the activism spawned throughout Trump’s presidency. Hopefully, the social shift in our culture as of late is just the beginning.
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How HOLLYWOOD Has Changed for the Better By Sami Umani If the #MeToo and Time’s Up Movement have not claimed your attention, you have to be incredible at maneuvering the endless cycles of disclosures, support, and action taken to make industries -most notably, the film industry -- cognizant of and safer for the women and men who are survivors of sexual misconduct. This recent overhaul of how business is conducted and what is acceptable on entertainment sets has not only ousted assaulters and bystanders, but it has empowered women to fight for the right to work without unnecessary harassment. We see this most definitive in the current and future season of releases. This Oscars season, Lady Bird, The Shape of Water, and Three Billboards Outside Ebbing, Missouri are at the top of the pack, with The Shape of Water racking up 13 Oscar nominations. The Shape of Water focuses on Elisa, a mute custodian in a government lab. The movie represents the voiceless people fighting against toxic masculinity in a culture that rejects people who don’t fit the mold. On the other side of the spectrum, Greta Gerwig and Saoirse Ronan have received nominations for their work in Lady Bird. They capture hearts with a familiar story about growing up, changing and recognizing the importance of family in your life. Greta Gerwig is one of five women ever nominated for Best Director at the Oscars. This is her debut film. Three Billboards Outside Ebbing, Missouri tells the story of a mother who, believing
the police to be incompetent in the investigation of her daughter’s murder, puts up billboards leading to her town with controversial messages of outrage directed at the police chief. Frances McDormand, who plays Mildred Hayes, has been sweeping the awards season unexpectedly, winning at the Golden Globes, SAG, and BAFTA awards for Best Actress. From this awards season, there is a prominent shift in societal norms. This is not a slow change, it is an immediate overhaul of the values and standards we hold ourselves to as employees, bosses, females, and humans. There is less fear for the repercussions of naming abusers, and the overwhelming support to women and men of the #MeToo and Time’s Up movements have inspired many more to open up about their stories. No longer is there just one place for women in Hollywood, every place is a woman’s place. As powerful and visionary women claim their place during awards season, the same happened at the box office. Annihilation, best known for its all-female ensemble led by Natalie Portman, and A Wrinkle in Time, directed by Ava DuVernay, starring Oprah Winfrey, Reese Witherspoon, and Mindy Kaling, have begun to dominate the box office. Some other highly anticipated releases this summer include Ocean’s 8, again known for its all-female ensemble in a spin-off of a previously male-dominated franchise. Debbie Ocean, played by Sandra Bullock, creates her group of thieves to attempt a heist on the New York Met Gala.
Their target is Daphne Kluger, played by Anne Hathaway. In this scenario, both good and evil are represented by women, and many are interested to see how these two sides will relate and differ in a category of film rarely represented. From the trailer, The Incredibles 2 depicts Mr. Incredible staying home to raise the kids while Mrs. Incredible, also known as Elastigirl, continues to fight crime, This trailer challenges the pervasive stereotype that confines the woman to the domestic sphere, while the man is the breadwinner; the swap in gender roles not only represents a more familiar situation to some, but inspires girls growing up with Pixar movies to not give up on the passions and dreams they have achieved. In the first movie, Elastigirl is shown as giving up her career after a government ban of superpowers. Now that her powers are more accepted,
she continues her career of a superhero while also being a mother to her children, not having to choose. Although some may say that women have always been prominent figures in Hollywood, the role that women take on this year is monumental. She is her own; she is not expected to act or be anything that she is not, and she is certainly the only one entitled to her body. Frances McDormand, even after winning almost every Best Actress category during the awards season, does not fit the typical mold of young, smiling actress while accepting her award. Hollywood, in its immediate reconstruction of its foundations, has not only let women pave the way towards equality, but has begun to welcome and appreciate actors of all genders, races, and lifestyles.
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HOW TO BE MORE THAN A By Jessica Mannarino CLICKTAVIST Chances are you’ve received a Facebook invite to a protest over the past few months. Your friend thought you might be interested in the protest because you tweeted #BlackLivesMatter or #TimesUp the week before, and you are certifiably #woke now. Maybe you attended the protest, maybe you didn’t. Movements like Black Lives Matter, the Women’s March and the Time’s Up are all rooted in social media. Today, it seems as if no social movement is complete without its own hashtag. The ability for social media to amplify voices is unprecedented, and equally advantageous as it is detrimental. Some of the most impactful social movements in the U.S and around the world were effective without Twitter, Facebook and other platforms, so why have we intertwined activism with our social media? What are the implications of this new age of digital activism? Is it helpful or hurtful? In one way, the combination of activism and social media is valuable. It is proven that people are more likely to join social movements when their family and friends recommend it. Using social media to encourage your friends and family to care about a cause can be an effective way to get more people involved, and to collaborate with people of similar interests without even having to meet them in real life. The danger of combining social media with social movements comes when you confuse “clicktivism” with activism. Social media has trained us to care about a “trending topic” for a few hours and then move on. Combining historically perpetuated social injustices with platforms made for the rapid sharing of information can lead us to care about an issue for a few hours, maybe a day, and then move on to the next topic. It is imperative that when we use social media to inform or engage in dialogue, we use that interaction to propel action in real life. You may think that sharing a Facebook link to sign a petition, tweeting #PrayFor____, or putting a rainbow frame over your Facebook profile picture renders you “woke.” You tweeted a fact about gender inequality and you’ve done enough activism for the day. Informing your friends, family and followers about the injustices of the world is respectable, but don’t let that inhibit you from taking the next step toward action. Informing others is only the beginning.
Using social media to promote a cause is not harmful, until it is the only means by which to enact the movement. If we forget how to be activists without social media, we lose all power. Worst case scenario: we become so reliant on social media to organize social movements, platforms on which the movement is being organized are censored or even taken down and the entire movement is paralyzed. This may seem far-fetched, but it happened during the Arab Spring in countries like Egypt, where Facebook and Twitter were blocked before a five day internet blackout. Turkey also selectively rather than objectively bans certain social medias based on the current political climate, specifically aimed at dismantling uprisings. Censorship is also pervasive in other countries like Russia and China, where those who speak out against societal issues or the government itself are silenced. The reality of a complete internet blackout in the U.S may be unlikely, but that doesn’t mean we can still continue be completely reliant on social media to mobilize the people. Social media isn’t the antithesis of social movements, and can actually be extremely useful for organizing. It is only dangerous when we become so reliant on social media that the movement would cease to exist without it. Furthermore, social media is detrimental when we use social media to talk about movements and issues, but don’t act upon them. It’s okay to share that petition, or tweet that hashtag, but maybe make a promise for every tweet you share for a movement, you’ll call your representative. When you change your Facebook profile picture for a certain cause, volunteer for an organization related to that cause the following weekend. Use social media to inform, but make sure to actively fight for those movements IRL. We need to use social media to propel our activism, not replace it.
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OPINION
CATCH THE WAVE By Sophie Ambro
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We are now in the second year of the Trump presidency, and it is clear the rage that has built up inside me throughout the presidential campaign and Trump’s first year in office is here to stay. If your anger is as strong and persistent as mine, the good news is there is hope (maybe). As we approach the beginning of the 2018 political campaign season, the stakes are high. The party which comes out on top in the November midterm elections will control Congress. Currently, the Republicans have the majority number of seats in both the House of Representatives and the Senate, giving them complete control of the Legislative branch. With Donald Trump in the White House, Republicans are currently operating with a united government (one party has control of both the Legislative and Executive branch). Politics, however, is a pendulum; when the House swings to the right, it will most likely swing back to the left, and then continue in a never ending cycle. So while it’s still early in the election season, and impossible to predict exactly what will happen, here is everything you need to know about the 2018 midterm elections November 6: All 435 seats in the House of Representatives are up for grabs, Democrats need 24 House seats to take over majority control, 46 currently held Republican seats are considered competitive for Democrats and 19 are toss-ups, 34 Senate seats are up for election, including New York Senator Kirsten Gillibrand’s seat, Democrats need to win 2 seats to regain control of the Senate, 24 Democrat, 2 Independent, and 8 Republican Senator seats are up for election, and Bob Corker and Jeff Flake, 2 Republican Senators, have announced they will not seek re-election. While the numbers provide some optimism for those wishing to take a stab at Trump’s control of our government, the key determinant of the results in November will be the enthusiasm of voters. Donald Trump’s record low approval rating is not enough to translate into Democratic wins. Like any election, voting is key! And, the tide is already beginning to turn. In 2017 the governor’s seat in both Virginia and New Jersey were won by the Democratic candidate. Democrat Doug Jones won Alabama’s special election for Senate, defeating Republican and accused pedophile Roy Moore. In addition, there were many Democratic wins at the state and local level. Many political analysts predict these Democratic wins are the warning signs of a perfect storm set to hit this November...
Enthusiasm for the Democratic agenda is growing day by day. The Women’s March following Trump’s inauguration, and the most recent one on its anniversary, strengthened the urge to get not just more Democrats elected to office but women too. The #MeToo movement shed light into the systemic sexism that plagues all industries, including government, and the necessity to have women uniting at the forefront of these issues. The strength and courage of the teenage activists fighting for gun control legislation following the school shooting at Marjory Stoneman Douglas High School in Parkland, Florida has hopefully gotten us closer to passing some sort of gun control legislation.
“If the call for change that is surging all across this country remains at the volume it has for the past few months, there is hope for a Democratic takeover.” If the call for change that is surging all across this country remains at the volume it has for the past few months, there is hope for a Democratic takeover. If you feel that same anger and passion for change that has already brought together hundreds of thousands of people across the country; if you want to help give the Republicans (and our President) a wakeup call in November; if you are tired of feeling like there is nothing you can do and no one seems to listen, here are just a few suggestions of places you can go to volunteer or support Democratic candidates for the 2018 midterm elections: Your local congress member or Senator Manhattan Young Democrats, Democratic National Committee, Democratic Congressional Campaign Committee. And, above all, make sure you and everyone you know registers and votes on November 6. If people vote and support their candidates, a wave of blue can crash over Washington D.C.!
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Within a male-dominated music industry, women are challenging the standards, and re-defining what it means to be a woman today. Artists like SZA, Cardi B, Kehlani, Kali Uchis, Jhené Aiko are part of a growing generation of female musicians who refuse to succumb to the constraints placed on them. Rather than being pulled between being modest or being provocative, being dependent on men or being a narcissist, these women are simply being whoever they wish to be. They accept their faults, embrace their hardships, challenge gender roles, and encourage other women to do the same.
Unapologetic Women in Music By Jessica Mannarino
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Gone are the days of women singing about a man they need in order to feel complete. Kali Uchis, a ColombianAmerican musician, explains her song “Loner” was the first time she was comfortable having no love interest, and living a life focused on her own inner peace. Cardi B talks openly about her past as a stripper and how it liberated her from an abusive relationship. In the past, if an artist mentioned they were a stripper, it would have negatively impacted their image. Instead, Cardi B has triumphantly won 2 Grammy nominations, and is the only rapper to have her first 3 singles on the billboard Top Ten simultaneously. Cardi B’s unrestrained music and shameless attitude proves that a woman can be successful without relying on a man, and without fitting a mold. SZA’s album Ctrl, is equally uninhibited as it is empowering. “Love Galore” embraces putting yourself first after a toxic relationship. “The Weekend” empowers all of the women involved in a “side chick” and “main hoe” relationship. SZA has stated that these terms are male created to portray men as the center of every relationship. “The Weekend” challenges that notion by putting women at the center, giving the power back to the women involved. These women are not the first generation of women to challenge patriarchal standards. Throughout history, women musicians, especially women of color, like Celia Cruz, Lauryn Hill, and Beyoncé have been outspoken about societal institutions through their music about topics like pop culture’s expectations of women, and the obstacles of being a woman of color in the entertainment industry.
This new generation of female musicians is continuing the legacy of these artists, in a time where women are finally being heard. Movements like #MeToo and #TimesUp have given an outlet for women to speak out against the institutions against them. Women are finally getting the space to express themselves the way they deserve, what is different now, is that people are finally starting to listen. What does this new wave of unapologetic women mean for the future? They are changing the limitations of what a female artist is “supposed” to do. It is easy to see the success of these women, from their multiple grammy nominations, or consistant spots on the Billboard Top 100. Their impact goes even further; take Drake’s newest single, “Nice for What”. The song’s lyrics and music video are a celebration of women, that would not be embraced today if it weren’t for Bodak Yellow by Cardi B or Ctrl by SZA. Whether people acknowledge it or not, Drake owes his success from “Nice For What” to the women in the industry that have continually fought for their own empowerment, even when people weren’t listening. The positive impact of unrestrained women like Cardi B and SZA is not just for future female musicians, but also for their listeners. The millions of people who listen to these artists around the world internalize the unrestricted sentiments of these women. The unapologetic women of music have created a reality where a confident woman is not narcissistic, sexuality is not something to be ashamed of, yet not something that defines you, and where being a woman does not mean giving up autonomy. The music we listen to shapes who were are. Consuming music that advocates for the empowerment of all women, will undoubtedly have a positive effect on the perception of women in the future. This generation of unapologetic female musicians are proving to their fellow artists and listeners that women, especially women of color, have voices that matter just as much, if not more, than their male counterparts in the industry. It is time to stop ignoring, and start listening.
“This generation of unapologetic female musicians are proving to their fellow artists and listeners that women, especially women of color, have a voices that matter just as much, if not more, than their male counterparts in the industry..”
YOU’RE BORN NAKED AND THE REST IS DRAG BY ANDREW HASTE
Thursday nights in my apartment feature setting up the projector, some snacks, a little discussion over our favorite queens, but most importantly, my queer roommates and I sitting around to watch our religion, RuPaul’s Drag Race. As football is (mainly) to straights, Drag Race is to queers. Therefore, you will find it playing at a plethora of gay bars on Thursday nights where you can get a cosmo, or a beer if you so choose, and root for your favorite queens to win the challenges that week. Before this year, and before living with a bunch of queers, I had never watched an episode of Drag Race. I only knew of RuPaul, as most people do, but did not realize the chunk of queer culture I was missing out on; I did not realize the power of such a television show. RuPaul’s Drag Race first aired in 2009, a hopeful sign of the changing times, and yet was not fully given the recognition it deserved until recently. If unfamiliar with the premise, the show features fourteen drag queens each season who compete in series of mini-challenges to narrow down the competition and ultimately crown the winning queen of the season. However, this is not just a show about crowning a winner. It is a show that deals with the intersection of race, gender, and sexuality, making it more of a social commentary than a simple reality TV show. In accordance with the idea of Drag Race as a social commentary is the fact that it has led the charge in the normalization of the queer community while still retaining its flamboyant and unapologetic roots. It gives the queer community a
spot in mainstream television, making them accessible to all audiences. In comparison to shows like Queer Eye, Drag Race is not an exploitation of queer stereotypes for straight people’s benefit. It is not to make straight people more comfortable with queerness, but to show that queerness is a normal part of life; it is something to be appreciated, encouraged, not shot down at every opportunity. In addition to this unapologetic portrayal of queerness on Drag Race are the realities that come with being queer in society. The queens do not shy away from sharing their experiences with discrimination, homophobia, HIV, and even transitioning (as a few queens who have performed on the show have come out as transgender). Concerning visibility, having a show with openly transgender, queer, and HIV positive participants allows for these previously banished attributes to become normalized in society. It allows for the next generations to understand queerness, to accept it, and to not be afraid of it. It fosters a community in which queer people will not be afraid or ashamed of coming out, and hopefully, eventually, will not even have to come out. It is for these reasons that drag, and specifically RuPaul’s Drag Race, is so important to the queer community. It gives us visibility that we otherwise would not have and reaches for acceptance while still being unapologetic. And it inspires the younger queer generations to be who they want to be. It inspires them to live without limits and express their sexuality and gender identity to the fullest of their ability.
“[Drage Race] is not to make
straight people more comfortable with queerness, but to show that queerness is a normal part of life;
it is something to be appreciated, encouraged, not shot down at every opportunity.�
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city serenity
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LUCID
dreaming
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credits All uncredited layout designed
5 Beauty Gurus to Watch in 2018
by the FLASH Creative Director, Emma Childs.
Illustrations: Claudia Westby
Redefining Gender Fluidity
Makeup as a Means of Self-Expression
Photos: Maria Pustinger
Photos & Model: Olivia Lucas
Model: Kylie Hayward Layout: Katherine Mills
Boys Will be Beauty Buffs Illustrations: Esme Bleecker-Adams
All Hail Queen Kamie
Layout: Margot Morgan
Photos: @laurelcreative and @louisdamato Model: Kamie Crawford
Beauty in 2018: Exclusivity is Unacceptable Illustrations: Emma Childs
Social Change is Not a Fashion Trend Illustrations: Emma Childs
The Science Behind Your Aging Skin Illustrations: Hannah McCracken
How Everlane is Revolutionizing Ethical Standards in Fashion Retail
Worth the Hype?
Photos: Vera Drymon
Photos: Olivia Kincaid
Models: Annie Dreyer and Connor Howlett
Model: Sami Umani Layout: Olivia Kincaid
Transition Outfits Photos: Nina Avroneva and Sibel Iskender
How Hollywood Has Changed for the Better
Models: Nina Avroneva and Sibel Iskender
Illustrations: Hannah McCracken
Layout: Fefi Martinez
Layout: Fefi Martinez
Spring Awakening
How to be More than a Clicktivist
Photos: Peri Rohl
Illustrations & Layout: Bawila Idris
Model: Franchesca Sampeur
Catch the Wave Illustrations: Esme Bleecker-Adams
Unapologetic Women in Music Illustrations: Emma Childs
You’re Born Naked and the Rest is Drag Illustrations: Emma Childs
City Serenity Photos: Chris Zarcadoolas Model: Emma Kreutzman
Editorial Photo Shoot Photos: Josh Castillon Models: Arne Olson, Stephanie Mizrahi, Sequoia Harris Makeup: Cameryn Martin, Grace Clark Stylists: Franchesca Sampeur, Isaiah Barnes