FOOD & WINE
From here to now Story by Gill Gordon-Smith CSE. Illustration by Tonia Composto.
From regional pioneers and old vines to new plantings and varieties, the Fleurieu has always honoured our past while embracing change. Multi-generational brands sit alongside an ever-growing crew of new producers; tradition and new wave bound together by a shared devotion to our region. Our Mediterranean lifestyle along with our ability to reflect, embrace and innovate make it the perfect playground for all to explore and discover, even if you’ve been a long-time supporter of all things Fleurieu wine. The variety of our terroir sees vineyards climbing into cooler climes in the hills that hug our region, down to the gnarled bush vines on the plains of Langhorne Creek. It means endless inspiration for winemakers and a bottomless glass of diversity for punters to explore. It’s this that inspires and excites me every time I head out tasting or find a new producer to showcase at Fall from Grace. So many of our producers are world-renowned and well-awarded that it’s impossible to mention them all here. A selected highlights reel might include Shingleback, Scarpantoni and SC Pannell as winners of Australia’s most prestigious and sought-after ‘Jimmy Watson’ trophy. Grenache, of course, features often among award winners. Varney Wines was the 2021 Halliday winery of the year (their grenache is the bomb). Both Rob Mack from Aphelion (2018 Young Gun of Wine) and Year Wines (2015 Best New Act) make some joyous expressions of the Fleurieu’s favourite variety. All of these awards are measured against their peers nationally; it’s a big deal to win them. If you love the classics, follow the legends or forge a new trail with some of the emerging stars of the industry we have featured over the years. 2021 Young Gun of Wine Charlotte Hardy has her cellar door at The Joinery at Port Elliot’s Factory 9 and I get so inspired hanging out at the bar, tasting her and partner Ben Cooke’s gorgeous wines.
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Oliver’s Taranga is led by an inspiring, powerhouse of a woman in Corrina Wright, who’s wines and commitment to the region are exemplary. On the same road you’ll find Bekkers wines, home to the mind-blowing and focused wines made by Emmanuelle and Toby. The Creeks – Langhorne and Currency – deserve a couple of days on their own. Kimbolton have been grape growers for generations and their cellar door showcases the delicious present-day expression of knowledge gained over decades. Cross Backstairs Passage and explore some of the most exciting producers forging a place for Kangaroo Island on the map. Islander Estate, Springs Road, Dudley, and The Stoke are showcasing the island beautifully. Those interested in sustainable, organic or biodynamic wines should head to Yangarra and Gemtree for awe-inspiring wines. Brash Higgins, Poppelvej and Somos are pushing the boundaries with exciting versions of orange and preservative-free wines as well as wine made in concrete eggs. Sheds and shared spaces are housing communities of makers using new techniques or finding new ways with old techniques. Italian, Portuguese and Spanish grapes have flourished on the Fleurieu and added colour and vibrancy along with food-friendly flavours and tastes. Beach Road, Zerella, Coriole and Samson Tall make wines that are a pure pleasure to drink. Berg Herring at Sellicks, Coates and Golden Child just up the hill at Kuitpo and the combination cellar door spaces of Lino Ramble, Sherrah and Bondar on McMurtrie Road are adding interest and texture to the conversation alongside their delicious drinks. Make a plan, get out there and celebrate. Chin chin! Note from the editor: Gill Gordon-Smith is one of the foremost wine educators in Australia. Her wine bar in Aldinga, Fall from Grace (FFG) has helped forge a path for young and boutique winemakers, offering a point of difference with a large selection of small producers and international wines. FFG is where winemakers go to drink because they know they will get something that will test their own ideas and make them strive to make even better wine.
