Opulent Living Magazine no 12 by Florian Gast

Opulent Living

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THE COFFEE-TABLE MAGAZINE FOR THE FINER THINGS IN LIFE | EDITION 12 | NOMINAL CHARGE R180

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Opulent Living Welcome

“Do your little bit of good where you are; it’s those little bits of good put together that overwhelm the world.” – Desmond Tutu

Florian Gast and Barbara Lenhard, founders and owners of Opulent Living

PHOTOGRAPH: ANDREW SWARTS

e hope that, when you pick up this publication, you are well, at peace and in a comfortable space! The quote above, from Archbishop Emeritus Desmond Tutu, really inspired us as we put together this edition, and reminded us that it’s the small things in life that add up to create the big picture. Each of us has an opportunity, and a responsibility, when it comes to contributing to the space we are part of, and we should see this as a gift and a blessing. We were very privileged to meet Desmond Tutu over tea in March; we’ve wanted to

meet this positive, energetic, spiritual human being ever since we moved to South Africa in 2009. The moment he came out of his office to welcome us we felt his overwhelming spirit. He is one of those unique human beings who knows that constantly looking back does not take us forward and, even at his advanced age, he still looks to the future and continues to make a contribution to the world. An old adage says we should live every day as if it were our last. If you know the magazine, then you’ll know that our favourite saying is “Carpe diem”, which translates as “seize the day”. It tells us to put aside our differences, fears and worries and to just go for it; to prioritise what really matters in the world and our lives. We lead such busy lives that we often forget this advice, or that we need to do our little bit to contribute to the bigger picture. Do you know the feeling? We certainly do, and have to remind ourselves to slow down and take stock. So it’s good to sit back and look over the “little bit of good” that has gone into creating the latest edition of Opulent Living. It’s little bits of what we like to call excellence that create these pages that we know will inspire you. With each edition, we like to roll out the red carpet for you as we share both new developments and long-standing luxury labels with you. Brands such as BMW, Bulgari and Hennessy all have amazing stories to tell, and we love to share them. Most of all, we want to share the spirit of Africa with you – it’s one of the core values of Opulent Living.

In the past six years we have grown into a brand that celebrates the finer things in life while not forgetting to give back to those who have more basic needs. We’ve established Opulent Living Experiences, which creates top events such as ‘Valentine under the STARS’, an open-air concert with the Cape Town Philharmonic Orchestra. Opulent Living Experiences is also responsible for the unique annual charity gala ‘Chefs who share – the ART of giving’, which to date has raised nearly R4-million for youth development. Opulent Living Travel, our travel business, has grown too, and recently acquired a twin. Opulent Living Cruises – operated by our professional staff who know that quality is more important than quantity – will book you on the voyage of your dreams. Allow us to say thank you for your support and trust in our brand – it’s because of you and your requests that we’ve grown as we have. Our key message is still “spread the travel love!” We write about some of the best places in the world and we feel that Africa has so much to offer tourists from across the globe. We hope you enjoy reading about some of the continent’s best luxury destinations, written by our team of top journalists, and that you come to experience them for yourselves. We see our role as connecting you to Africa and giving you the knowledge and help you need to experience its power firsthand. Carpe diem and opulent regards, Barbara & Florian

Opulent Living

Contributors

Imprint

A product is only as good as the people behind it. Andrea Vinassa specialises in writing about arts and culture, décor and architecture, design and real estate so investigating Cape Town’s status as an art hub was right up her street. When not huddled over a hot laptop, she loves taking old things and making them new – refurbishing homes or repurposing furniture. She lives in Hout Bay surrounded by mountains and sea.

Publisher: Barbara Lenhard barbara@opulentliving.co.za Editorial & Creative Director: Florian Gast florian@opulentliving.co.za Managing Editor: Anne Duncan Designer: Deborah Poswell Contributors: Sebastian Bartlett, Keri Harvey, Kit Heathcock, Carolyn Hurry, Michelle Marais, Vicki Sleet, Maryna Strachan

An award-winning journalist with an insatiable appetite for travel, Richard Holmes is always luxury destinations or sample the world’s best food and drink. He explores the heritage of Hennessy in this edition, saying that the sense of history associated with French cognac imbues it with a distinct joie de vivre. Ian Macleod divides his time between writing features and training for Comrades. While his special interest is in research-based sports tales, he enjoys penning any story that investigates human character. What stood out for him about Desmond Tutu “is his magical way of being hugely influential on the most serious matters while inspiring belly laughs at every turn”.

Newspace Publishing CC Cape Town, South Africa Edition no. 12: published May 2015 Edition no. 13: to be published in November 2015 For advertising and sales please contact sales@opulentliving.co.za Distribution: throughout South Africa and internationally via preferred partners and five-star hotels · in first and business class on selected airlines · in exclusive lounges, showrooms and boutique stores · nationwide via direct mail · internationally via selected distributors Nominal charge: R180 Printed in South Africa by Tandym, Cape Town www.opulentliving.co.za www.facebook.com/opulentliving

German photographer Michael Poliza loves

@liveopulent

to be in nature, away from any sign of

www.youtube.com/opulentliving

civilization and is fascinated by the infinite shapes nature is able to assume. He fulfilled a long-time dream when he flew by helicopter from Hamburg to Cape Town, skimming close to the ground to get a different perspective on his favourite continent for Eyes over Africa.

Opulent Living magazine is published by Newspace Publishing CC. Copyright Newspace Publishing CC. No portion of this publication may be reproduced without prior written consent from Newspace Publishing or the authors. The publishers are not responsible for any unsolicited material. The opinions expressed are not necessarily those of Newspace Publishing or the editors. Opulent Living is a registered trademark of Newspace Publishing CC.

With us from the beginning, Harry the hippo.

Opulent Living

COVER IMAGES: ONE&ONLY, BULGARI, BMW, HENNESSY, GREAT PLAINS CONSERVATION

on another plane to explore international

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Sabi Sabi Earth Lodge · Designed for life – naturally

Zarafa Camp · The call of the wild

DESMOND TUTU · THE BISHOP WHO MOVED A NATION

One&Only Le Saint Géran · Paradise beyond compare

Plettenberg Park · Clifftop inspiration

Selinda Camp · Waterfront wilderness

Monarch Hotel · Royal refuge in the bustling city of gold

Selinda Explorers Camp · The magic of a classic expedition

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Lawhill Luxury Apartments · Freedom to explore

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Azura Quilalea · Island in the stream

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Contents

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Opulent Living Style

A new definition of mobility · The revolutionary BMW i Series

Cape Town is painting a new future · The city is set to become a global art hub

The sparkle of la dolce vita · Bulgari has long been a hallmark of indulgence

The human subject · SA immigration is attorney Gary Eisenberg’s speciality

A distillation of Africa · Amarula is a golden success story

Hatching art from shells · Avoova accessories are crafted from ostrich eggs

Celebrating the finest family spirit · Hennessy’s 250-year history

Opulent Living Travel · Dream destinations around the world

Opulent Living Essence · A round-up of glamorous style

Opulent Living

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Contents

Stanley & Livingstone Private Game Reserve · Heritage of adventure

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Zarafa Dhow Suites · A bygone grandeur

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Mara Plains · A place of vast, untamed magic

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Opulent Events · Stylesetters and newsmakers

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Opulent Living Photo Feature A different view on Africa · Michael Poliza’s acclaimed aerial images

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Sabi Sabi Earth Lodge ∙ South Africa

Designed for life – naturally Crafted from the elements to highlight nature’s palette, Earth Lodge – Africa’s most ecologically sensitive venue – is world-famous for the unique architectural design that sees it sculpted into a slope and almost invisible in the landscape. Add to that a burgeoning tradition of culinary excellence and a location renowned for big-game sightings and you’ve got a safari lodge that ranks among the world’s best.

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Wild inside and out: Natural fibres and colours used in the suites echo the organic shapes of birds, plants and animals, including the curved horns of a herd of buffalo.

h, the African bush! The smell of wild sage and buffalo dung as the golden veld basks in the morning sun. The promise of close encounters with the Big Five; tracking rhino, spotting leopard, watching elephants bond at a waterhole. Such personal proximity to nature is bound to thrill your soul. Sabi Sabi Earth Lodge in the 65 000-hectare Sabi Sand Private Reserve is one of the few places on the planet where you can observe at close quarters

the age-old dance between predator and prey. It’s a total immersion into a wildlife oasis that touches a deep part of us, the unexplored wilderness within. From the womb-like confines of the rough, textured adobe walls of this living abode, you become one with the surrounding fauna and flora. Think view with a room. But, what a room! And what a view! Dug into the undulating landscape with wild grass roofs blending into the sunburnt savannah at koppie-level, 13

individual ethnic palaces offer private plunge pools, hand-crafted furniture, fine linen, glass-fronted bathrooms, indoor and alfresco showers. At Earth Lodge it’s hard to tell where the mortar ends and the riverine forest begins. Throw in a Zen garden, well-stocked library, lounge, spa and a day bar – where guests can doze within muslinenclosed salas or cool their feet in the midday heat at the pool while buffalo slake their thirst nearby – and you can see why National Geographic fêted Earth

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Ethnic artefacts reflect a sense of place in the reception area which, backlit by the great outdoors, creates a striking synergy between the dramatic minimalism of the lodge and the savannah that embraces it.

Lodge as one of its Unique Lodges of the World for its superb sustainability and rich, meaningful guest experience. Architect Mohammed Hans, sculptor Geoffrey Armstrong, interior designer Stephen Rich, co-owner Jacqui Loon, Mother Earth and Father Time boldly ventured further into the wild to offer it a reciprocal invitation. All shared their creativity to produce Africa’s most ecologically sensitive lodge, where the buildings – sunk into a slope of the earth – merge so well with the landscape, they become virtually invisible. At Earth Lodge, nature communes with you. The inspiration came from the lowimpact earth shelter architecture so beloved by Medieval Europeans, in which earth is used against building walls for external thermal mass, as an insulating blanket to reduce heat loss, and to maintain a constant indoor temperature. An earth sheltered dwelling is energy-efficient, quiet, freeze-proof and low maintenance. The African take on this sustainable architectural style that employs passive solar heating can be seen in the organic curved walls hewn from sand, stone and thatch, while indigenous plants spring from the roof. Inspired by the plants and animals, Geoffrey Armstrong crafted the furniture from trees uprooted by elephants or

floods. Particularly noteworthy is his “burning bush” headboard in the Amber Presidential Suite – an opulent space, dubbed the most beautiful suite in the world, that boasts lounge, study, steam room and kitchenette alongside the glamorous en-suite bedroom. Fingers of sunlight linger over the gold, copper, silver, platinum and bronze elements in objets d’art, or thread through fabrics to reflect Africa’s mineral wealth and promote a sense of harmony. Nguni hides soften ivoryhued floors and, at night, branches of handmade gilded chandeliers shimmer like stars. Each piece is a masterpiece of art, design and functionality. However guests cannot live by design alone. Victuals are vital to ensure an unsurpassed safari experience and here, Earth Lodge knocks leopard spots off the competition. What other South African venue can boast the culinary aristocracy of fêted Eric Chavot of Michelin–starred Brasserie Chavot in Mayfair, London? Blown away by Earth Lodge, Chavot came to advise kitchen staff on the intricacies of French cuisine in January 2015. Think Miso-marinated quail breast, sweet corn, water chestnuts, brinjal, spring onion and teryaki sauce, just for starters! Says Earth Lodge’s head chef Brendan Stein, no slouch at the stove himself,

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Ultimately, it’s not the heartstopping sight of a pride of lion ambling down the dirt road, or a leopard slaking its thirst from a waterhole that gets to you. It’s the little things – the brightly coloured kingfisher, the intricate praying mantis – that make Earth Lodge a uniquely African experience.

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The glass-walled gym offers a workout with a view (below). The lodge has recently refreshed its menu with input from a Michelin-starred chef. The Amber Suite (opposite, below) features Earth Lodge’s unique, unadorned finish that belies the 5-star luxury that attracts discerning guests from across the world.

having cooked in Zanzibar, Mozambique, the Maldives and some top South African restaurants: “Chef Eric Chavot is not just an amazing chef and mentor, he’s also a great guy willing to impart his knowledge and help in any way he can, especially when it comes to a fresh approach to the menu. We communicate regularly and he will return to Earth Lodge to follow up on our progress. I will also spend time with Chef Eric in his Brasserie Chavot kitchen in the UK to further the mentorship training. His expertise has spread to everyone who works in our kitchen.” This equates to a sous chef, chef de partie, commis pastry chef, two students

and three cooks. For all the fads that food goes through, certain dishes always stand the test of time so at Sabi Sabi Earth Lodge, Brendan updated firm favourites with a fresh approach, as seen in the pan-fried sea bass with sesame rice noodles and avo salsa, or grilled kudu fillet with a hazelnut cream, morello cherry reduction. “The cuisine here is prepared simply but executed with class, focusing on flavour rather then fuss. The menu is varied and we will adjust anything to accommodate guests’ dietary requirements. “Staples include grass-fed beef fillet, lamb rack, pork belly or duck breast, with kudu and gemsbok as game options,” says Brendan. In keeping with Earth Lodge’s eco principles, he does his best to source pasture-raised options despite the remote location. “We source as much as we can from Hazyview, White River, and Nelspruit, although some speciality items come from Jo’burg.” A typical vegetarian dish might include a porcini mushroom risotto, Parmesan shavings, micro herb salad and truffle oil, but it’s the beef fillet with potato galette, baby carrots and brandy-pepper cream sauce that seems to generate the most applause. A popular dessert is the milk tart jelly and vanilla crumble with cinnamon ice cream. “We do not have a specific room service menu, but we will arrange for guests to eat whatever they choose in their suites,” adds Brendan. Private meals are often arranged in multiple venues, such as the meditation gardens, the unique day bar (seated in the pool), the American Express Diamond Award-winning wine

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Sabi Sabi Earth Lodge

Sabi Sand Reserve, Greater Kruger National Park, SA Telephone: +27 (0)11 447 7172 Email: res@sabisabi.com Website: www.sabisabi.com For pampering, the Amani Spa offers holistic beauty treatments and massages, while the small gym gives a workout overlooking a waterhole. Game drives in open vehicles and guided bush walks – all led by dedicated, knowledgeable rangers – take guests through a wide variety of habitats for special sightings of the prolific game for which the area is renowned, whether it be lions preparing for their evening hunt or bushbabies leaping from treetop to treetop. Back to nature really doesn’t come much better than this! n Carolyn Hurry

Sabi Sand shares an unfenced border with the south-western section of the Kruger National Park. Daily scheduled flights operate from OR Tambo International in Johannesburg to the Sabi Sand airstrip.

PHOTOGRAPHS: SABI SABI

cellar – an oenophile’s dream – or on the lawns under starlit African skies. Brendan draws his inspiration from his surroundings – “our location is what people all over the world dream of seeing” – and fresh ingredients to hand. “Earth Lodge is an inspirational place where I have the freedom to create and innovate. This way I get to offer guests not just a saliva-inducing feast, but a sumptuous gastronomic experience!” A celebration of place and of the senses, Earth Lodge is for discerning sybarites hunting down the perfect bush sojourn.

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Zarafa Camp Âˇ Botswana

The call of the wild Looking out over the waters of the Zibadianja Lagoon, which rise and fall in tune with the seasons of the Okavango Delta, Zarafa Camp is a jewel of eco-luxury and exclusivity in a magical land teeming with wildlife. The sense of being the only explorer in the world is one of many privileges awaiting visitors to this beautiful private reserve in Botswana.

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Exquisite dinners worthy of the campâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Relais & ChĂ˘teaux status are served on the deck around the firepit when sunset paints the sky a fiery orange.

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An amazing amount of birdlife and a wide variety of plains game and predators provide a fascinating spectacle in the private Selinda Reserve.

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iving life in the wild and experiencing the thrills of Africa needn’t mean letting go of luxuries. While Beverly and Dereck Joubert (owners of Zarafa Camp with their partners in Great Plains Conservation), have spent many years following lions through the wilderness areas of Africa, sleeping in their vehicle or camping under a sheltering ebony tree in single-minded pursuit of their award-winning documentary films and photography, they don’t expect similar sacrifices from their guests. On the contrary, Zarafa has been designed as one of the most luxurious and exclusive tented camps in Botswana, pampering its guests with exceptional comfort. In fact, Zarafa and the nearby Zarafa Dhow Suites are the only Relais & Chateaux properties in the country. From the moment guests push open the heavy wooden Lamu doors to their huge canopied tent – one of only four on the banks of the Zibadianja Lagoon – it’s evident that this isn’t camping; more a sumptuous home from home. The spacious lounge exudes timeless warmth, from the deep leather sofa to the thoughtful desk and rich Persian rugs. Peek into the leather safari trunks to discover Swarovski binoculars and the latest Canon SLR camera complete with two lenses so that you can capture all those safari highlights like a professional wildlife photographer. At the end of your stay, a DVD of all your images is yours to take home. Committed to minimising the camp’s footprint for their innovative vision of conservation tourism, the Jouberts sourced all the timber for the wooden decks and floors from 100-yearold railway sleepers reclaimed from abandoned Zambian railways, and commissioned furniture from Indonesian craftsmen using hardwoods washed up after the 2005 tsunami. A canvas curtain arch leads to the bedroom where a comfortable king-sized bed is swathed in netting and fitted with a unique cooling system for summer. There’s also a ceiling fan, though the

tents are kept naturally cool by the shade of the tall trees under which they sit, as well as the insulation offered by doublesided canvas and the breezes that flow through the open netted sides. Burnished metal is the theme in the spacious en-suite bathroom. Here a gorgeous brass tub takes centre stage at the window overlooking the lagoon, double copper basins sit on a reclaimed teak stand, there’s an open shower with brass taps and, best of all in winter, a copper-hooded gas fireplace warms bedroom and bathroom. With their low-impact design and netted windows open to the elements, the suites have the air of blending into the landscape, as an elephant strolls past the deck, dips her trunk into the plunge pool and wanders on. For what a landscape it is. Set on the far eastern edge of the private 130 000-hectare Selinda Reserve in northern Botswana, the camp overlooks the floodplains of the Zibadianja Lagoon, fed by the Okavango Delta and the source of the Savute Channel. It’s an area where game abounds, attracted by the plentiful water, and both the tented suites and the main area are raised on decks to take full advantage of the sights. The sounds of the African night, hippos grunting and grazing, a Pel’s fishing owl softly purring, the distant roar of a lion are all that lull your sleep at night – without the hum of a generator or other jarring reminders of civilisation. The camp’s structure is uncompromisingly green, with an impressive solar farm that meets all its electricity needs (including plug points and hair dryers in the suites), a UV filtration system that supplies the camp’s drinking water, a bio-gas plant that recycles waste into cooking gas, and safari vehicles that run on a mix of vegetable oil and diesel. Exclusivity and spontaneity go hand in hand at Zarafa. With only eight guests and two safari vehicles – custom built for photography with fold-down screens and raised roof – there is a huge amount of flexibility for each day’s programme. While the traditional early morning and late afternoon safari drives are the

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Each of the four spacious suites has a deck with a private plunge pool, and a gorgeous en-suite bathroom fitted out in brass with a fireplace to keep it cosy in winter.

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best times for the most varied wildlife sightings of elephant, leopard, lion, buffalo, zebra and giraffe, as well as rarer species such as the African wild dog, cheetah, roan and sable antelope, there are no time limits. On numerous occasions Chef Katherine has packed up one of her superb threecourse dinners and despatched it to a far corner of the reserve, where guests are so involved in a lion hunt or following a pack of wild dogs that they can’t tear themselves away, even with the allure of an elegant candlelit dinner awaiting them back at camp. So dinner comes to them and is served with equal panache under the stars as the hunt continues. On another evening, guests may be in the mood for leisurely sundowners floating out on the lagoon on HES Zib, the camp’s pontoon boat, perhaps watching the colony of rare African skimmers

Delicious and varied meals are served in the dining room, al fresco under the trees or on the floating pontoon boat on the Zibadianja Lagoon.

Zarafa Camp

Selinda Reserve, BOTSWANA Telephone: +27 (0)87 354 6591 Email: res.manager@ greatplainsconservation.com Website: www.greatplains conservation.com

Opulent Living

tips and helping guests with light and angles for the perfect shot, or the passionate stories of wildlife shared by staff at mealtimes. There is a real sense of deep involvement and commitment to the conservation of this unforgettable wilderness, a passion for sharing it with generous hospitality and conveying to guests the sense, in Beverly Joubert’s words, that “Zarafa is your home and that you are the only explorer in the world”. n Kit Heathcock

PHOTOGRAPHS: GREAT PLAINS CONSERVATION

swooping over the surface of the calm waters, or observing elephants and hippos in the shallows. But besides all the luxurious appointments, indulgent massages, exhilarating outdoor showers and fabulous food, what sets Zarafa apart is genuine connection with the wild. The love and understanding that Dereck and Beverly Joubert have for the land and the animals comes across in the staff, whether it is the experienced guide passing on professional photography

Zarafa is only accessible by private charter flights or scheduled air transfers from Maun or Kasane in Botswana. The airfield is licensed for aircraft up to the size of the King Air, Pilatus PC-12 and Cessna Caravan. From the airfield it is an hour by road to the camp, allowing for game viewing stops along the route.

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THE BISHOP WHO MOVED A NATION Archbishop Emeritus Desmond Tutu was unrivalled in drawing attention to the iniquities of apartheid, and his message of forgiveness helped forge a new Rainbow Nation. Now 83, he still speaks out as South Africa’s moral conscious. by Ian Macleod

“Do your little bit of good where you are; it’s those little bits of good put together that overwhelm the world,” says the cleric who has dedicated his life to advancing principles such as love and forgiveness.

Opulent Living

He is the boy from a Highveld township who would one day lead the Anglican church in South Africa and embrace the great and the good in the palaces of Europe. Along the way he fought apartheid so passionately and compassionately that he carved a place in the hearts of black and white South Africans alike. His broad smile, infectious laugh and inspiring speeches warm him to young and old; rich and poor. Not just a hero to South Africa’s Anglican flock, Archbishop Emeritus Desmond Tutu is a grandfatherly guiding light to everyone in the country he so aptly dubbed the “Rainbow Nation”. Born in October 1931, the second of three children of Zacheriah Zililo Tutu and his wife, Aletta Tutu, and their only son, Desmond Mpilo Tutu grew up with apartheid. The little-big man matured into a powerful social rights activist, a keystone of the peaceful resistance to this notorious regime, and, alongside his friend the late Nelson Mandela, steered the transition to democracy and the ‘New’ South Africa in the 1990s. Today the 83-year-old known affectionately as ‘the Arch’ has aged into an important role

as the moral guardian to a still-divided and searching nation. He remains active in the defence of human rights and is never shy about using his high profile to campaign for the oppressed around the globe. In the words of former State President Nelson Mandela: “sometimes strident, often tender, never afraid and seldom without humour, Desmond Tutu’s voice will always be the voice of the voiceless”. Boy about town Tutu’s story begins in a hot Highveld township outside Klerksdorp, part of the now defunct Transvaal province, in the heart of a gold mining hub to the south-west of Johannesburg. “I was the middle child and had two sisters. We lived in a three-roomed house, but not three bedrooms, just three rooms. We had a bedroom, then there was a kitchen that doubled as a dining room, and the last room was both a bedroom and a sitting room. In fact, when I got married, that last one was where my wife and I stayed. But, I mean, it was actually luxurious in many ways. I have

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“I wish I could shut up, but I can’t, and I won’t,” says the feisty and humorous arch, who is still forthright with his opinions whenever he perceives injustice or oppression.

“„ But you didn’t go around

feeling sorry for yourself.

You lived. You played soccer with tennis balls.

to say it is streets ahead of the things that they put up in the RDP. “My father was a school teacher, actually the principal, and my mother a domestic worker for a white family. My mum was an incredible woman – I actually look like her. Back then I think one accepted that one was separate from the whites who lived in towns. Us blacks lived in what we called locations. I remember we had one street light which would go on at night.” Tutu’s revered positivity doesn’t take long to emerge as he talks. As he recounts his childhood experiences, the boyish but witty responses to remembered racial slurs give an insight into his later approach to the antiapartheid struggle, where his unequivocal opposition to oppression was always delivered with trademark humour. “You know, I happened to be the only boy in our location who had a bicycle. Others used to ride bicycles for others, but I had a bike for myself. My father used to send me to town to buy newspapers and other things, and I remember always having to run the gauntlet of Afrikaner boys taunting me. They used to shout, “PIK, PIK, PIK!” What they were shouting meant ‘pitch’ as in ‘pitch black’. When I was at a safe distance, I would shout “GRAAF, GRAAF, GRAAF” [Afrikaans for ‘shovel’]. But you didn’t go around feeling

sorry for yourself. You lived. You played soccer with tennis balls.” A compassion for the underprivileged was also deeply ingrained from early on. “The one thing I still recall from there is black kids scavenging in the dustbins of the white school. Those white kids were getting government school feeding, but they preferred what their mummies prepared for them. These kids threw out perfectly good apples and sandwiches. Much later, after they had introduced school feeding in black schools, [former apartheid Prime Minister] Dr Verwoerd stopped it, because he said we can’t feed all of them, so we won’t feed some. To me, that is like saying we won’t try to cure some TB patients because we can’t cure all of them. “But you accepted that this was just how life was. We went to separate schools. Another strange thing was that Indians were allowed to live in town, but not allowed to attend white schools. They had to come to the location to attend our school.” But a chance meeting with an ardent opponent of apartheid, the English Anglican bishop Trevor Huddleston, gave the young Tutu an inspiring lesson in inter-racial respect. He recalled the brief encounter on a Sophiatown pavement in an eloquent interview with Sir David Frost: “I didn’t know him then, but I recall this white priest in a long, flowing cassock, doffing his hat to my mother. And… I mean, that struck me as being quite odd: a white man lifting his hat to my mother, a black woman, not particularly educated, a domestic worker.” Later, when Tutu spent nearly two years in hospital struggling with tuberculosis, Huddleston was a dedicated visitor to the teenager’s bedside. “You don’t know just what it did for one’s self-esteem,” emphasises Tutu. “Here is an important white man coming to visit me in a township clinic. His influence on me – and on many others – was quite phenomenal.” Man of the world After finishing his schooling in Soweto, the young Tutu hoped to become a doctor, but the financial resources required were well beyond what his family could muster. Instead he followed in his father’s footsteps and went

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into teaching – and the newly qualified Mr Tutu taught at various high schools around Johannesburg in the early 1950s. On the personal side, he married Nomalizo Leah Shenxane, also a teacher, in 1955. It was the start of strong marital partnership that continues to this day. The couple have four children – a son and three daughters – and seven grandchildren together. Their eldest – named for Tutu’s mentor Trevor Huddleston – was born in 1956. So it was a brave move when the new father resigned from teaching in 1957. The apartheid government had introduced the reviled Bantu Education Act of 1953, a segregation law that enforced racially separated educational facilities. It served to significantly downgrade the educational prospects of black students, a move that was unacceptable to the principled and increasingly politically minded Tutu. The 25-year-old decided to rather follow the path of anti-apartheid activist Huddleston and enrolled as a student in theology at St Peter’s Theology College in Rosettenville, in the south of Johannesburg. In late 1961 he was ordained as an Anglican priest. A star student, in 1962 the young minister was awarded the opportunity to study towards a Master’s in Theology at King’s College in London, where he also worked part-time as a curate at various churches. He completed his degree in 1966 and moved back to South Africa with his young family, taking on the chaplaincy at the University of Fort Hare in the Eastern Cape the following year. Fort Hare was then a hotbed of political thought, and alma mater to many freedom fighters, including Nelson Mandela and Oliver Tambo, then secretary general of the ANC and living in exile in the United Kingdom. Tutu’s stirring lectures during this period, both at Fort Hare and the National University of Lesotho, where he taught in the early 1970s, highlighted the plight of South Africa’s increasingly dispossessed black population. Tutu’s reputation grew internationally as he took on leadership roles in theistic organisations. He returned to the UK in 1972, when he was appointed vice-director of the Theological Education Fund of the World Council of Churches, based in Kent.

Three years later he was back in Johannesburg to take up the role of Dean of St Mary’s Cathedral. Here he continued to motivate for political change, sending an open letter to then Prime Minister John Vorster in May 1976, just a month before another reviled education act – the Afrikaans Medium Decree, which forced all black schools to use both Afrikaans and English as languages of instruction – resulted in a mass student protest in Soweto. Man against a regime On 16 June 1976, the Tutu family was preparing for a move back to Maseru, where Desmond was to serve as Bishop of Lesotho, when news of the police response to the Soweto protests broke. Hundreds of protestors had been shot, many of them children, and Tutu was not alone in being deeply affected by the event. He felt strongly that he should stay in South Africa but eventually agreed to the church’s insistence that he was needed in Lesotho. It marked a milestone in his thinking,

STILL THE VOICE OF THE VOICE LESS

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“ „ I hope we become a country

that spreads its wealth not so that everybody is

rich, but so everybody knows they matter.

A deep thinker and a skilful orator, the Arch has an infectious love of life that has endeared him to people across the globe.

however, and he became more and more outspoken on the injustices of apartheid, supporting the international call for an economic boycott of South Africa. When Steve Biko, founder of the Black Consciousness Movement, was killed in police detention in 1977, Tutu made a stirring speech at his funeral. His oratory reignited calls for him to return home and take on a role in the struggle against apartheid – and in 1978 he did just that, accepting the position of secretary-general of the South African Council of Churches. With a potent core of supportive church leaders, the feisty bishop continued his vocal but peaceful opposition to the apartheid government. His lectures and writings, both in South Africa and abroad, consistently called for reconciliation between the parties and for a peaceful solution to the freedom struggle. His battle was one of hearts and minds, and he was as unshakeably opposed to violent action by revolutionary groups as he was to police brutality. His passion and his reconciliatory message won him backers from across the world. Predictably, this didn’t sit well with those in power in South Africa, and his actions attracted the attention of the notorious apartheid security police. His passport was revoked on a couple of occasions, and he was briefly jailed in 1980 for his role in a protest march. It may have been only his disarming manner and worldwide respect that spared him longer incarceration. Man of peace His universal impact was acknowledged when he was awarded the Nobel Prize for Peace in 1984. Egil Aarvik, chairman of the Norwegian Nobel Committee, remarked at Tutu’s award presentation, “Desmond Tutu is an exponent of the only form for conflict solving which is worthy of civilised nations”. More international awards followed, including the Albert Schweitzer Prize for Humanitarianism in 1986 and the Pacem in Terris Award in 1987. Meanwhile, he continued to move up the ranks in the Anglican church and in 1986 was elected the first black Archbishop of Cape Town, a role which saw him become the leader of the church in South Africa.

He resigned that position in 1996 when he began what many regard as his defining office – Nelson Mandela’s hand-picked chair of the Truth and Reconciliation Commission. Charged with the harrowing job of hearing testimony around human rights abuses during apartheid, his candid human frailty, tempered by strength, may have been the only possible way to keep a combustible situation from catching fire in a precarious democracy. “I broke down on the very first day,” Tutu muses. “But then I said this wasn‘t fair because the media then concentrated on me instead of the people who were the rightful subjects, the victims. If I wanted to cry I would cry at home or at church.” Mandela further recognised his role as a reconciliatory force when he convened The Elders in July 2007. A group of world leaders that contribute their wisdom, leadership and integrity both publicly and behind the scenes to tackle some of the world’s toughest problems, Tutu served as the inaugural chair until 2013. Once of his first missions was to lead a group to Sudan to help foster peace in the Darfur crisis. He’s also led delegations to Ethiopia, Palestine and Israel, and was particularly involved with The Elders’ initiative opposing child marriages. Man of conviction Although he officially retired from public life in October 2010, on his 79th birthday, Tutu continues to take a stand against injustice wherever he perceives it. From human rights abuses in the Middle East and homophobia, to climate change and military aggression, he still speaks forthrightly, even scathingly, when his moral fabric demands it. And, just as Tutu once ticked off Ronald Reagan for what he felt was a weak American stance on apartheid, the Archbishop Emeritus has criticised the current South African government for corruption and ineffectiveness. “I think that now we need to say, without being too harsh on government, that they must give the people a substantial share of the freedom dividend. And it is very distressing when you see over R200-million being spent on Nkandla [referring to controversial upgrades to President Jacob Zuma’s private home in KwaZulu-Natal], in an area where all the neighbours are struggling with poverty.”

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He’s also taken South African leaders to task for their policy of quiet diplomacy towards Zimbabwe, and has been vocal in his condemnation of the Mugabe government’s human rights abuses. Through it all though, his message of peace is clear, and he has an extraordinary capacity to reach across barriers of age, race and religion to people from all walks of life. At one of his last public appearances, an address at the 2010 One World Conference in London, he told the silently mesmerised youth audience: “I want to salute you, for you are a fantastic bunch of human beings. You dream dreams. You dream dreams of a world that is without war. You dream dreams and you say let us make poverty history.“

PHOTOGRAPHS: PATRICK KING, WWW.PATRICKWKING.COM

Man in his twilight Himself a frequent inclusion in the hypothetical ‘three historical figures you‘d wish to have dinner with‘ list, who might Tutu select? “I would choose Mary Magdalene and St Francis. Well, I knew him personally, but I’d add Trevor Huddleston. And I think I’d like to have met Augustine of Hippo. He was an African and one of the most brilliant Africans ever. Incredible. His influence on Western Christendom is dramatic.“ And as he settles further into his chair, where does the 83-year-old see his country‘s future? “I thought we’d be there already. I mean, it has been more than 20 years since

freedom. I hope we become a country that spreads its wealth - not so that everybody is rich, but so everybody knows they matter.“ With the bantam giant growing visibly weary, it seems apt to leave comment on the Tutu legacy to someone else. That of John Allen, his erstwhile press secretary may be most eloquent. “I think his legacy lies in the way he brings across to people who are not African, or of African heritage, the concept of ‘ubuntu‘. These days it‘s easy to devalue his advocacy for tolerance and forgiveness, because a lot of people who didn‘t know him many years ago would say, ‘Of course he‘s going to preach peace, he‘s an archbishop.’ Remember that in the 1970s and 80s he could be very angry. He could communicate well with black and white South Africans, do so in their language and understand where they came from. But when he saw people getting hurt… that really made him angry. The sense of forgiveness has to be weighed against the fact that he was a passionately angry man at times. But ubuntu says we are interconnected - it‘s that sense of shared wellbeing, no matter what you‘ve done to me.“ Just time for one final question: What is luxury to Desmond Tutu? A considered pause, a breath and the look of a mind at work. And then the answer, one just as clear to any person of any creed who has struggled their heart out for a cause: “Sleep“.

HIS LEGACY IS HIS SPIRIT OF UBUNTU

Barbara Lenhard and Florian Gast met with Archbishop Emeritus Desmond Tutu in Cape Town in March 2015.

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One&Only Le Saint Géran ∙ Mauritius

Paradise beyond compare Five-star resort properties are plentiful in Mauritius but few have the luxe appeal of One&Only Le Saint Géran, which nestles on the silver sands of its own private peninsula to offer an exclusive hideaway for both couples and families looking for incomparable hospitality, world-class facilities and exceptional cuisine.

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here’s no denying the appeal of Mauritius. A quick flight from South Africa makes it an ideal tropical holiday destination. Then there’s its exotic island culture, authentic EuroCreole cuisine and, of course, its exquisite natural scenery and beaches. It is these qualities that helped cement the One&Only brand’s foray into Mauritius, and indeed the world. One&Only Le Saint Géran is not the biggest jewel in the One&Only crown, given that it has properties in Dubai, Mexico, the Maldives, Australia, Bahamas, South Africa (and coming soon Montenegro, China, Bahrain and two more in Mexico), but it is undoubtedly one of its most charming. Situated on its own peninsula on the

north-eastern side of Ile Maurice and blessed with more than a mile of pristine beach, the resort has become renowned as a hideaway for celebrities from far and wide who happily blend in among the honeymooners and families who return year after year. The island resort has had consistent updates since the 1970s and now includes 161 spacious and fully equipped suites, which are either sea facing or boast unspoilt views of tranquil coves. There is also a single villa that has hosted numerous A-listers whose names the staff here are far too discreet to share, although their eyes shine when recalling a month-long villa stay enjoyed by Nelson Mandela on his release from

prison some 25 years ago. The resort boasts an impressive 60 acres of palm treed gardens, a nine-hole Gary Player golf course, both a tennis and a waterski and wakeboarding academy, and an ESPA spa, host to one of just a handful of Bastien Gonzalez Mani:Pedi:Cure studios in the world. The most recent refurbishment to the resort took it from homely hotel with an enviable reputation to rock-star property. A wide frangipani-scented walkway leads guests from the palatial entrance lobby straight to the heart of this island idyll, the pool area. Just beyond is the beach and in its midst, the main bar and dining area, which means guests start and finish their days here,

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La Terrasse surrounds the sparkling pool that lies at the heart of the resort and serves up an eclectic variety of local and international specialities.

ensuring there is a congenial atmosphere at all times. One&Only Le Saint Géran is unique in that it is both about family and couple time and the resort handles the demands of both sets of clientele beautifully. Here, families are spoilt for choice with any number of activities to enjoy together and, should parents need some time to spend a morning enjoying a game of Sudoku in silence, then there’s the KidsOnly Club, certainly one of the best on the island and absolutely complimentary to resort guests. Children, age three to 11 are paired with enthusiastic minders who are on hand to entertain and facilitate play and adventure from 10am-10pm daily, either in the KidsOnly Club (which features indoor and outdoor activity areas, a pool and dining room) or at specific daily activities in and around the resort. At any time of day, one can see the professionally trained minders pottering with their charges, sharing in the wonder of a just-discovered sea shell, learning how to fish or making their way back from a successful bout in the kitchen. Of course there are activities for older children, too, and teens invariably leave

the resort equipped with new skills and a slew of new friends to follow on Instagram when they get back to real life. For those seeking romance, One&Only Le Saint Géran is the ultimate awayfrom-it-all resort. There are plenty of pockets of privacy and opportunities to settle onto a lounger-for-two for the afternoon. One&Only’s unobtrusive yet thoroughly attentive service style is a hallmark of the brand and this is especially relevant for honeymooners or couples seeking together time. Another signature of a stay at any One&Only resort is the calibre of cuisine and One&Only Le Saint Géran is no exception. From five-star gourmet menus to the super-cool frozen yoghurt trolley that patrols the resort, there are endless edible delights that await. At waterside eatery Indian Pavilion, Chef Faizal Ali serves elegantly presented modern twists on famed favourites such as kebabs and kormas. Meanwhile at hip dining hub PRIME, Chef Vikash Coonjan prepares a mix of decadent offerings, from his signature Salade du millionaire with finely sliced palm heart to slow-cooked Wagyu beef short ribs. At the poolside restaurant La Terrasse, the offerings

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There’s a restful ambience in the suites, where beds are covered with Egyptian cotton sheets and bathrooms incorporate an outdoor shower.

One&Only Le Saint Géran

PHOTOGRAPHS: ONE&ONLY LE SAINT GERAN

Pointe de Flacq, MAURITIUS Telephone: +230 401 1688 Email: reservations@ oneandonlylesaintgeran.com Website: oneandonlylesaintgeran.com

change every day but the constant is a focus on the mouthwatering fresh produce available on the island. From alfresco seafood barbecues featuring lobster and sea urchins to themed and local buffet evenings, it’s all about tasty, unforgettable food. If return custom is the holy grail in the hotel industry, then One&Only Le Saint Géran is that elusive treasure. Every evening one hears enthusiastic “see you

next time” exchanges as guests enjoy their last cocktails, dinners and starlit dancing before their flights home. One&Only Le Saint Géran manages to ooze five-star style at every turn while maintaining a laidback, homely atmosphere. It’s no wonder people who started coming here in the 1980s as children are bringing their own children here to make new tropical holiday memories. n Vicki Sleet

Part of the renowned One&Only resort brand, One&Only Le Saint Géran was voted the Indian Ocean’s Leading Resort in the 2014 World Travel Awards. It has 161 suites and one exclusive villa, as well as numerous world-class facilities and eateries. It is a 60-minute drive from the island’s main airport.

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Plettenberg Park â&#x2C6;&#x2122; South Africa

Clifftop inspiration

Whale-watching, log fires and cosy cocooning in winter, languid summer days beside the infinity pool soaking up stunning views over the Indian Ocean or pottering among the rock pools on the pristine coastline: whatever the season, Plettenberg Park is all about escape and tranquil country house living. Set in a private nature reserve outside the vibrant seaside town of Plettenberg Bay, it has attracted high-profile guests such as Nelson Mandela and Richard Branson thanks to its discreet, personalised hospitality and secluded beauty.

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he soundtrack of waves crashing on the rocky coastline below makes a soothing backdrop to a good night’s sleep in the king-size sleigh bed at Plettenberg Park, and on a cool, clear winter’s morning the view is well worth waking up for. A faint mist hazes the water but there’s no disguising the graceful rolls and leaps of the majestic southern right whale as it breaches in the protected waters close to the Robberg peninsula. What better vantage point to whale-watch to your heart’s content than the luxurious surroundings of a clifftop suite with a bird’s-eye view of the ocean? With soft, sensual throws, underfloor heating and a roaring log fire to keep you warm as you gaze at the awe-inspiring sight of whales rollicking in the waves, cocooning inside is definitely high on the agenda in winter. The comfortable

chaise longue set beside the fireplace opposite the glass doors to the balcony demands an afternoon curled up with a book, letting eyes stray now and then to the view of gulls soaring, waves breaking and clouds swirling along the unspoilt coastline. A therapeutic massage at the in-house spa, a relaxed stroll along the clifftop trails and a succession of delicious meals are all you need to punctuate a weekend of romance and delightful seclusion. Plettenberg Park was originally the family home of interior designer Sarah Stevens and has retained its air of a gracious country home, even as the new wing has added five more spacious seafacing rooms (to make a total of only 10). Sarah’s inimitable style pervades throughout the spaces, taking the clean bleached colours of sea, sand and rock and transmuting them to luxury fabrics,

simple understated furniture with soft curves and natural woods for a timeless, uncluttered appeal. Clusters of comfortable wide armchairs, sofas and ottomans in the lounge invite relaxed conversation over coffee, a collection of Clinton Friedman’s beautiful botanical photography adding a South African flavour to complement the natural treasure of the fynbos reserve outside. Other rooms feature a distinguished art collection of the works of internationally acclaimed South African artist Tamsin Relly, who began her career in neighbouring Knysna. While it is a perfect retreat to escape the world for a romantic weekend, Plettenberg Park also makes a wonderful base for exploring the Garden Route, especially for those who prefer to return home after an exhilarating day out to the peace and calm of unspoilt natural

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surroundings. The bustle of lively Plettenberg Bay is only a short drive away on the other side of the Robberg peninsula, where restaurants, bars and a vibrant beach scene await if you are in the mood for a faster tempo. From here you can embark upon a host of adventure and watersports activities, from a boat trip for close encounters with whales to river rafting in Storms River canyon, the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s highest bungee jump from nearby Bloukrans Bridge, hikes through the Tsitsikamma Forest and a whole lot more. Take in Birds of Eden where an indigenous forested kloof has been spanned by a huge freeflight aviary dome so that visitors can experience flocks of indigenous birdlife up close, or book a once-in-a-lifetime elephant-back ride at the Knysna Elephant Park, which gives sanctuary to rescued elephants in the beautiful surroundings of the Knysna Forest and Outeniqua mountains. Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s plenty of wildlife right on your doorstep, too. The boutique hotel is set in 200 hectares of natural fynbos reserve on a three-kilometre stretch of unspoilt cliff-lined coastline that curves round to the Robberg Nature Reserve. Take a gentle stroll or an energetic hike along one of the trails to discover a wealth of birdlife and small mammals, including charming bushbuck, grysbok and mongoose. The three natural wetland areas and large dam filled with bass make an ideal habitat for the Cape clawless otter, herons and kingfishers, with more than 65 different bird species identified here, so there are plenty of delights to entice you away from the enfolding comfort of the hotel, even if it is just to hike up to the lookout deck before returning to a cocktail beside the 25-metre-long infinity pool. In summer, Plettenberg Park takes on a barefoot luxury feel, its bleached wooden decks the perfect place to relax after a few laps of the pool, perhaps watching a pod of dolphins frolic in the waves below. Lunch is served in the shade of umbrellas with a gentle sea breeze taking the edge off the heat. Then take the cliff path down

With just 10 spacious suites, decorated in country house style in soothing neutral tones, the boutique hotel offers a tranquil base in the heart of the Garden Route.

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and many more thoughtful touches. It’s this air of exclusivity, away-fromit-all seclusion and home-from-home comfort that has made Plettenberg Park a favourite refuge of the great and the good, with Nelson Mandela visiting for a well-earned rest in his later years. Accessed by a long private road and enclosed by a large expanse of nature reserve, the hotel is not overlooked at all and booking out the whole space creates a fabulously private venue in a spectacular setting for an elite wedding or a special family get-together. As the sun sets and a rosy glow lights the sky, it’s easy to see why guests never want to leave this idyll and, when they eventually do, feel restored and revitalised for the next stage of their travels by the peace, tranquillity and the ever-changing moods of the grand ocean views. n Kit Heathcock

Plettenberg Park Hotel & Spa

Plettenberg Bay, Garden Route, SA Telephone: +27 (0)44 533 9067 Email: info@plettenbergpark.co.za Website: www.plettenbergpark.co.za PHOTOGRAPHS: PLETTENBERG PARK HOTEL & SPA

to the hotel’s very private beach where, at low tide, the natural tidal pool among the rocks is a joy to swim in. There’s a sandy stretch of beach above the rocks to sunbathe on and there are endless rock pools to explore as you rediscover your inner child. Fresh mussels gathered that day from these pools might appear on the dinner menu, as does a wide range of seafood and local South African produce. Chef Angelina Africa consults with guests about their personal preferences and takes into consideration any dietary requirements before creating the day’s menus. This personalised approach is reflected in all the service at Plettenberg Park where staff go out of their way to make guests feel at home, lighting fires at turn-down on cooler evenings, setting up romantic candlelit dinners on the balcony of their room for honeymooners,

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Selinda Camp · Botswana

Waterfront wilderness

Selinda Reserve in northern Botswana is one of Africa’s great wildlife spaces. At its heart is Selinda Camp, offering guests luxurious lodging on the banks of an ancient waterway that links the Okavango Delta with the Linyanti wetlands, receiving water from both. Here, too, live epic wildlife experiences – on game drives by day and night, guided walking safaris and boating trips. World renowned for its vast buffalo and elephant herds and evocative wild dogs, a visit to this private reserve and its low-impact camp touches an essence of Africa that is both rare and thoroughly memorable.

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Blue décor elements echo water and sky, while a crystal-clear pool offers far-reaching views across the endless floodplains of the Selinda Spillway, where wildlife abounds.

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he white tip of a tail is all that’s visible at first. Bush is obscuring the sighting, but a few minutes of patience quickly pays off when a wild dog gets to its feet and points its nose in the air. It’s ‘sniffing’ the bush telegraph, establishing which animals are in the area. Dinner is on the dog’s mind, and a small antelope will be enough to feed the family. Before long, there are six dogs on their feet, and rallying around preparing to hunt. They seem to have appeared out of thin air. The alpha male will decide when they leave on the hunt and which direction they follow; he’s large and in charge of the whole pack. Within minutes, the dogs are off, taking long strides as if warming up for the chase which they’ll run in relays - with a final ambush to secure their meal. They’re just too agile and fast to follow

in a vehicle, but seeing these rare canines up close is enchanting enough. The private 130 000-hectare Selinda Reserve has the Linyanti on its eastern border and the Kwando to the north – all renowned as exceptional game viewing areas and sharing similar habitat and species to Selinda. There is an important distinction though: the Selinda Spillway connects the Linyanti River system to the Okavango, though the spillway is usually dry. However, when the channels connect the game density to be found in Selinda is hard to match. The area is simply teeming with wildlife and a visit here at any time of year will yield great sightings and experiences. Regardless of the spillway though, Selinda has plenty to offer and game viewing is considered excellent throughout the year. Rain dictates the movement of the herds, however, which follow grazing;

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Tented suites evoke a classic elegance and are appointed with pure comfort in mind. Diverse textures and accents of deep red and blue call to mind a moody, sunrise sky.

and birding is particularly good in the early part of the year. The Selinda Canoe Trail is a more adventurous activity option and runs from late May to early August every year, getting guests close to nature and offering unique wildlife encounters from water level. Canoeists overnight en route in fly camps of small dome tents. Selinda Camp – with just nine tented suites, including a family suite - rests on the banks of the eastern Selinda Spillway, arguably surrounded by some of the most spectacular and pristine wilderness left on earth. This spillway is an ancient waterway that actually flows in two directions, in so doing linking the far reaches of the iconic Okavango Delta in the south with the Linyanti wetlands in the west – and curiously receiving water from both. In this thirstland, water is life for beast and bird.

Yet, Selinda Camp started with a dream. Five men in their fifties and with considerable experience in Africa between them, had an idea. So they pooled their resources, took action and created Great Plains Conservation, of which Selinda Camp is a part. It was spearheaded by National Geographic photographers and filmmakers Dereck and Beverly Joubert, who explain that they wanted to find the right formula of conservation, communities and commerce that would make a lasting, sustainable difference to the world’s iconic wildlife and wildernesses. “Over the years we have witnessed the steady degradation of these natural treasures in spite of considerable efforts to protect them. Species are being taken to the brink of extinction and habitats are being wiped out through poaching, hunting, mining, pollution and human

development, use and abuse. As human populations explode, these rare places, and the diversity of life they support, are valued less not more. They are protected less, not more.” The innovative Great Plains model takes stressed and threatened environments, surrounds them with compassionate protection and intelligent, sustainable management, and funds them with sensitive, low-volume, low-impact tourism. Communities are an intrinsic part of this model and benefit directly from it. The final piece in the picture is the guests who pay to visit the camps and in so doing become agents of this positive change. Says Dereck, the company’s chairman, “Great Plains is first and foremost a conservation organisation that uses eco tourism as a tool to sustain conservation programmes. We have coined the term

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Seeing ‘painted wolves’ or African wild dogs is a highlight on any safari; but vervet monkeys remain the chief entertainers of the bush.

Great Plains Foundation, which supports various projects. In Botswana the most topical of these is Rhinos Without Borders, a partnership to move 100 rhinos from the highest poaching zones in South Africa to the safe sanctuary of Botswana. The first batch of rhino have already landed safely in Botswana and will be protected by dedicated anti-poaching teams. Game drives, guided walks and boat trips on the spillway yield memorable wildlife sightings, from lion and leopard to zebra, antelope and vast herds of buffalo. It’s also one of the few areas in which you can still spot packs of the endangered African wild dog. But seeing a massive herd of elephant strolling silently into a crimson sunset has got to be one of the most emotive… The scene is emphatically African; thoroughly timeless. Something that has to be experienced in person – preferably in the wilds of Selinda. n Keri Harvey

Selinda Camp

Selinda Reserve, BOTSWANA Telephone: +27 (0)87 354 6591 Email: res.manager@ greatplainsconservation.com Website: www.greatplains conservation.com Selinda is only accessible by air from Maun. Road or boat transfers then take guests to the camp.

PHOTOGRAPHS: GREAT PLAINS CONSERVATION

‘conservation tourism’ for what we do, which entails quality led tourism experiences that are environmentally sound and make the conservation of the area viable and sustainable – without any negative influence on the land.” This ethos is exactly what Selinda Camp embodies as it sits lightly on the earth. Its structures are built from locally procured timber and thatch and all its electricity is generated by the sun. Vegetable waste is recycled into methane and then used for cooking through its bio-gas facility, while other solid waste is transported to Maun so that nothing is burnt or buried on the reserve itself. Despite this emphasis on low-impact living, the suites at Selinda are magnificent. Dark wooden furniture and floors, vintage travel trunks that serve as tables and hand-woven cotton kelims add a warm, romantic luxury. Colours are muted earth tones with splashes of deep red; fabrics are textured and pure; light streams in everywhere through the large tent windows and door. Mosquito nets fully draped at night ensure a cocoon for peaceful sleep – as do the insuite massages on offer. The main lodge building is open sided and built on a raised wooden deck that gives views over a seemingly endless floodplain. Pull thatch lends it an ethereal air and ensures it blends seamlessly into its surroundings. There’s a sense of timelessness in the design, which subtly honours the four elements. The splashes of blue in the décor and the welcome swimming pool echo the ancient watercourse of the Selinda Spillway; air is depicted through the billowing silk curtains in the main lounge; home-grown meals prepared with flair and love pay tribute to the earth; while the dancing flames of the evening fires complete the natural collection brought to life here. Great Plains currently operates safaris across one million acres in Africa, all of it in iconic wildlife areas. What’s unique is that shareholders have all agreed never to take a dividend from the company but to recycle all profits into the business or the

L’Ormarins was granted to French Huguenot Jean Roi in 1694 by Simon van der Stel, Governor of the Cape of Good Hope. Cradled by the majestic Groot Drakenstein mountains the farm has one of the oldest histories of wine production in the Cape of Good Hope. L’Ormarins Brut Classique was conceived and created by the late Anthonij Rupert to honour Jean Roi. His vision has come to fruition with this classic wine made according to the traditional French methods of its founder.

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a dash among the finer things in life.

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A new definition of mobility Combining next-generation materials with groundbreaking design, the electric and hybrid vehicles of the new BMW i Series are a distillation of the motoring marqueâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s guiding principles, and an eye-catching vision of urban mobility. by Sebastian Bartlett With its striking design, the BMW i Series represents the zeitgeist of the trend-setting auto marque.

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he reinvention of urban mobility. An ambitious goal, no doubt, but that was the clear objective of BMWâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s revolutionary Project i. When a team of skilled BMW engineers first sat around the drawing board in 2008 to plot the next-generation of planet-friendly motoring, the slate was clean; a sheet of white paper waiting patiently for the future.

Seven years later that future has arrived as the groundbreaking BMW i3 and i8 redefine the boundaries of sustainable urban mobility with a new generation of electric and hybrid vehicles that combine eye-catching luxury design and impressive performance with a sustainable ethos. Sound like an impossible combination? That was precisely the point.

“Designing the BMW i8 we were guided by the principle of delivering nothing less than the impossible,” explains Benoit Jacob, Head of Design for the BMW i project. “The goal was to create an icon.” And an icon has most certainly been born; an icon of both next-generation urban mobility and sustainability, combining the cutting-edge aesthetics for which the BMW marque has long been famous with forward-thinking technology that blends both driving pleasure and energy efficiency. It is a concept almost ahead of its time, for key to BMW’s groundbreaking i Series has been the notion of shifting the model of what it means to create an automobile. “Global trends are seeking to change the personal mobility paradigm that has existed for the last century of the automobile,” explains Deena Govendar, Manager: BMW i in South Africa. “Urbanisation, climate change, dwindling reserves of fossil fuel and

changing customer expectations will ensure that future automobiles will be increasingly electric, connected and shared,” he says. “Automotive manufacturers need to adapt their business models to this changing paradigm, to ensure that they are sustainable into the future,” he adds. “Innovation drives change, and one way to predict the future is to invent it. BMW i is a revolutionary step towards sustainable personal mobility of the future.” But this sea change in the way we move didn’t occur overnight. While the BMW i may have arrived on our roads like a bolt from the blue, it is in fact the well-thought-through end result of a strategic progression; a gradual refining of the demanding principles of high-end motoring that define this world-famous automobile marque. “This idea grew in an evolutionary process,” says Jacob. “Evolving further, the BMW i8 concept took the spirit and shaping of the vision and refined

A passively lit blue band signals the cutting-edge technology of the BMW i8’s lights, where all lighting elements are in energy efficient LED.

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A new definition of mobility The BMW i Remote app allows BMW i3 drivers to see their vehicle’s location, range, current battery levels and charging information.

DRIVING NEW TECHNOLOGIES Lower emissions and a lighter footprint; maximum performance and minimal fuel consumption. An end goal of greater driving pleasure. That is the simple ethos behind the bundle of BMW innovations dubbed EfficientDynamics. It is a package of ingenious functions covering the drive system, energy management and vehicle concept. EfficientDynamics “was the first visualisation of the design language and technologies that would be possibly used in BMW i vehicles,” explains Benoit Jacob, Head of Design for the BMW i project. While BMW EfficientDynamics may have taken on a striking new form in the shape of the i3 and i8, it’s a strategy that has long guided the company’s automotive designers. From BMW’s first foray into electric vehicles with the BMW 1602e in 1972, the principles have informed the design of all its vehicles through the last decades. In the 21st century, it’s the use of carbon fibre that has had the greatest impact on this philosophy. The lightest high-strength engineering material on offer in the world today, carbon fibre ensures the rigidity and safety of the passenger cell while ensuring lighter vehicle frames and therefore reduced fuel consumption. Likewise, modern magnesium alloys have transformed the performance and weight of engines in the BMW EfficientDynamics family. Here, BMW has set new benchmarks for delivering more power with lower emissions thanks to Valvetronic fully variable valve control and innovative turbocharger technology.

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it. With the final series production car the BMW i8 can be interpreted as the outcome of the evolution of a strong idea we began with and followed consistently.” While the fully electric emission-free BMW i3 – the most efficient electric vehicle in its class, using just 12.9 kiloWatt hours per 100 kilometres – is making waves in European cities where distances are shorter and charging points more readily available, in South Africa it is the i8 that’s turning heads among discerning motorists. This luxury plug-in hybrid combines the best of both worlds, a seamless symbiosis of next-generation electromobility and innovative combustion engine technology. Underpinning the switch between

electric and hybrid drive are the array of driving modes that match the driving experience to the mode of energy production. eDrive allows for fully-electric motoring, even at speeds of up to 120 kilometres per hour, while COMFORT, ECO PRO and SPORT settings offer intelligent combinations of electric and combustion energy for the most efficient journey without sacrificing the driving pleasure so key to the BMW brand. The technological innovations don’t just extend to the engine though. The BMW i3 and i8 offer the unique ConnectedDrive functionality that includes accurate range prediction via the Range Spider. Then there’s the groundbreaking BMW i Remote, which allows remote smartphone access to

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the vehicle’s range and charge status. The innovative application also allows drivers to plot their route according to vehicle charge points. While ensuring a luxurious and memorable driving experience was paramount, a key goal of the i project was to deliver more with less. More energy with lower consumption. Improved design with less weight. The ethos of sustainability runs throughout the project, and from design to manufacture the BMW i Series aims to reduce carbon emissions and minimise energy and scarce-resource utilisation. “Every detail is built with a purpose, beginning with the vehicle’s life-drive architecture up to the clever use of materials like carbon fibre,” says Jacob. “We wanted to show that it is possible

to get more with less: less weight or less use of energy throughout the whole lifecycle,” he explains. “From concept to design, well-to-wheel and end-of-life recycling, the BMW i Series seeks to reduce carbon emissions and minimise energy and scarce resource utilisation,” adds Govendar. A staggering 95 percent of the BMW i3 can be recycled at the end of its life, while the BMW i8 embodies BMW’s vision of an automobile with the unbeatable allure and performance of a sports car coupled with the fuel consumption of a small sub-compact. The seamless melding of electric and combustion energy is a defining feature of the i8, and the success of the symbiosis is largely down to the ground-breaking BMW TwinPower

Designed for zippy, sustainable city driving, the fully-electric emission-free BMW i3 is the most efficient electric vehicle in its class. Complementing it is the BMW i Wallbox, a sleek wall-mounted charging station for home use.

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A new definition of mobility ConnectedDrive functionality and a range of drive modes provide seamless switching between hybrid and electric power in the BMW i8.

Turbo 1.5-litre petrol engine that combines combustion energy for longer distances and high-speed cross-country journeys, as well as charging depleted batteries on the road. Designed especially for the i8, the three-cylinder 170 kiloWatt (231 horsepower) engine is optimised for recharging the lithium-ion highvoltage battery banks, while delivering up to 320 Newton metres of torque to ensure a superb driving experience. That experience doesn’t come at the cost of eco-efficiency though. Despite the impressive performance, the i8 sips only 2.1 litres per 100 kilometres, with carbon emissions of just 49 grams of carbon dioxide per kilometre. The i Series vehicles are also groundbreaking in their use of vehicle frame technology, and the mathematics

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here is simple: by reducing the weight of the vehicle less energy is required for class-beating performance. With this guiding principle in mind, lightweight materials such as aluminium and magnesium were specifically selected for their weight savings, without compromising on performance. The BMW i8 is also the world’s first volume-produced vehicle fitted with chemically hardened thin glass; a revolutionary product that is half the weight of conventional laminated glass. When it comes to weight savings though, the star of the i3 and i8 production process is without doubt carbon fibre. The lightest high-strength engineering material on offer in the world today – used everywhere from high-performance racing yachts to the next-generation Boeing 787 Dreamliner – carbon fibre offers exceptional rigidity and strength despite being half the weight of steel, and 30 percent lighter than aluminium. In essence, it was an ideal choice for BMW’s energy-efficient revolution in urban mobility. “Engineers have always said ‘to add a touch of speed, add lightness’. This design philosophy extends to reducing the energy required for mobility and hence reducing carbon emissions,” explains Govendar. “The BMW Group has always been a pioneer in lightweight construction and the BMW i Series represents the latest radical development of that philosophy… the BMW i3 and i8 are the world’s first mass-produced large-series carbon-fibre-bodied vehicles.”

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“To do this the BMW Group had to invent a new production process,” Govendar goes on to explain, “and in so doing has introduced the age of carbon fibre in industrialised automotive production.” Aside from providing exceptional strength-to-weight ratios, carbon fibre has also allowed designers to radically rethink what’s possible in terms of design. Converting consumers from combustion engines to hybrid and electric technology can only happen if designers ensure that the aesthetics of the pioneering vehicle are as alluring as its eco-credentials. “No new technology adoption happens

without a degree of emotional appeal,” explains Govendar. “The use of carbon fibre in the body constructions allows the designer a new degree of freedom in the conceptualisation of the design.” Dovetailing with the fluid lines and eye-catching design is a range of 11 luxury accessories for both the i3 and i8. From cable bags to climate covers, it’s an added dose of design and luxury to enhance the eco-friendly credentials of this groundbreaking new automobile series. The must-have accessory though? A collection of striking travel luggage that draws on the heritage of craftsmanship and innovation of designer Louis Vuitton.

Sustainability and efficiency meet dynamics and athleticism in the new i8, where sporty aerodynamic curves combine with the consumption and emission values of a compact car.

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Scissor doors lend the BMW i8 the distinctive characteristic of a full-blooded sports car. And, thanks to the aluminium, carbon and thermoplastic used in their construction, they are approximately 50 percent lighter than conventionally built car doors.

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For design is key, and the i8 is perhaps the zeitgeist of the guiding design principles of BMW; the perfect harmony of proportions and pioneering spirit; pushing boundaries in aesthetics and efficiency while appealing to the intense emotional experience of driving. In other words, a vision of the future, made tangible. So are the BMW i3 and i8 the future? The answer is far from clear-cut, but Jacob believes these two groundbreaking offerings are the first step in an evolution that will – and must – happen. “The dominance of combustion engines will not change from one day to another, but electric energy as the source of power for future vehicles will replace today’s technologies step by step,” says Jacobs emphatically. “My belief is that we will have a rapidly increasing number of electric vehicles in the world’s mega-cities, metropolitan areas and large cities.” In South Africa, the demand is already apparent. Traditional and online marketing campaigns saw a surge in interest that culminated in a BMW i pop-up store that travelled countrywide allowing the public to discover the revolutionary offering behind the i3 and i8 through a series of interactive content engagements, as well as the opportunity to test-drive both vehicles. In yet another innovation in luxury motoring, the i Series also marks the first time BMW will allow drivers to purchase and customise their vehicles online. You can configure your dream car online and then send all the relevant

data directly to BMW i. If you prefer to talk to a sales person, then specially trained product experts are also at hand 24 hours a day to offer advice by telephone and, once you’re sold on the best car for you, you can conclude your purchasing agreement by telephone, too. It’s all part of redefining mobility - allowing you to order what you want wherever you are. It surprised nobody then, that when the first vehicles rolled onto showroom floors across South Africa they didn’t remain there for long. In the first month of sales, one i Series vehicle left the showroom each and every day, and future demand is already high. While arrival of the i3 and i8 will transform the advancement of electric mobility in South Africa, it is by no means the end of the road. “Further work continues to be done to evaluate new vehicle concepts and mobility products and services that fit in with the strategy of sustainable personal mobility of the future,” says Govendar. As you read this, no doubt Benoit Jacob and other great automotive minds at BMW are distilling and redefining the guiding principles of the i Series. Weight will be trimmed, efficiency will be enhanced and designs re-imagined. The pure pleasure of driving will be refined once again, and another icon of urban mobility will be making its way onto the road. For the engineers at BMW there is no destination, only a journey. For the future of sustainable personal mobility is both already here, and waiting to be discovered.

PHOTOGRAPHS: BMW

A new definition of mobility

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â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Failed Connectionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; by Capetonian Neill Wright, who looks particularly at the social products of contemporary society from a global as well as South African perspective.

CAPE TOWN IS PAINTING A NEW FUTURE Cape Town is an art-friendly city, but it is not a major player on the global art scene … yet. Will the Zeitz Museum of Contemporary Art Africa prove to be the game changer? by Andrea Vinassa

“In a world where bling, leisure and money converge Cape Town is the perfect sub-Saharan hub for art,” says cultural commentator and educator Ashraf Jamal. Former editor of Art South Africa magazine and curator of the World Design Capital 2014, Jamal believes Cape Town is playing host to a global shift in taste. “We are not only concerned with South African art these days, but with an Afrocentric or Afropolitan zeitgeist.” International interest in contemporary African art has boomed in the last decade and local art dealerships are thriving on it. South Africa’s art scene is driven by a new generation of artists who are rooted in Africa, but not bound by geography. Says Jamal: “Worldart specialises in Afroglobal pop, SMAC is splicing African art with its abiding strength in abstract art. The Goodman and Stevenson galleries are at the frontline of contemporary art, just as Brundyn+ pulls out of the race to focus on a new and innovative continental community arts project.” Art is bursting out all over Cape Town, with art producers, passionate collectors and property developers determined to

ensure Cape Town’s pre-eminence as the top art tourism destination in Africa. In Cape Town art does not just happen in garrets and galleries, it happens on the streets. It is part of the fabric of a city where officials have incorporated art in their strategy to bring about social cohesion. Emma Bedford, art specialist at auction house Strauss & Co, insists “Cape Town is one of the few cities in the world where visitors can enjoy unparalleled leisure experiences while viewing exhibitions and buying the works of top African artists as well the artists of the diaspora who feature in collections and shows here.” While many South African cities have experienced an exodus from the inner city, leaving buildings to decay and poverty to take root; the opposite is true of Cape Town. Visionary developers have transformed the city into a vibrant business and residential district. Strategic initiatives like the Cape Town Central City Improvement District (CCID) have revitalised the streets, creating the impetus for developers to repurpose historic buildings, in turn, stimulating the opening of restaurants, bespoke shops and art galleries.

‘Revolution’ by emerging South African artist Vivien Kohler, who not only works with paint media but also incorporates found objects into his work.

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PART OF THE FABRIC OF THE CITY

Emma Willemse’s ‘de(part)’, a suspended installation created using discarded parquet floor blocks, on display at the Sulger-Buel Lovell Gallery in Woodstock.

Cape Town had always fancied itself the creative capital of South Africa, but massive effort, financial investment and effort has gone into and will continue to go into fulfilling its potential. The Design Indaba has played a key role in establishing the city as an international design hub. Started in 1995, it is a thoughtleader in the creative arena, attracting leading design thinkers to local shores, culminating in Cape Town taking its turn as World Design Capital for 2014. Cape Town’s creative economy is supported and promoted through happenings like “Infecting The City” (ITC), an annual public arts festival that aims to bring socially engaged performance and visual art to the streets. Entrepreneur Gareth Pearson’s “First Thursdays” sees thousands come into the CBD to enjoy after hours art exhibitions, walking from gallery to gallery. The global profile of South Africa’s burgeoning design scene was raised by Southern Guild, founded by Trevyn and Julian McGowan. In 2014 they launched South Africa’s first international design fair, Guild, which saw South African artists collaborate with international designers to create challenging design-art collectibles. And they opened a gallery in Woodstock. Not forgetting the role of the arts in developing democracy is the African Arts Institute which has just launched the African Arts Campus at the Homecoming Centre of the District Six Museum in Cape Town. This project will present insights into the African creative economy and what puts African art at the cutting edge. While Cape Town became worldrenowned for its design and its wine, fine art has always played second fiddle to Johannesburg, where art is far bigger business. Says Tony East, gallery manager at the Goodman Gallery in Cape Town: “Johannesburg is the financial capital of South Africa and attracts the bulk of its business travellers from the rest of Africa. All the big corporate collections are housed in Jo’burg and many of South Africa’s top artists live and work there. But Cape Town is geographically more suited to becoming an art destination. Most galleries have a presence in both cities and in time I see

the corporates moving some collections to Cape Town to better showcase them.” The two cities are engaged in a symbiotic relationship - and most artists have the opportunity to show their work in both. The two cities feed off each other’s energies, providing contrasting subject matter for art making. Johannesburg’s edginess is a welcome counterfoil to Cape Town’s postcard prettiness. Johannesburg is a more mature art city: the FNB Jo’burg Art Fair is now in its eight year and attracts major sponsorship. Launched in October 2013, Cape Town’s Art Fair is now taking off. In its third year and fourth edition, Fiera Milano Exhibitions Africa has secured a slot at the Cape Town International Conference Centre. It will be held in February next year - before Design Indaba. Says Liza Dyason, manager of the fair: “This is a real coup for us. It is the first step towards a permanent venue and opens the door for a title sponsor. We already have sponsorship and now we can grow and develop. Fair director Matthew Partridge has put together a team with curatorial and art fair expertise who will take it to the next level, attracting international and pan-African galleries and visitors. New York-based author and art historian, RoseLee Goldberg said “Cape Town can certainly claim to have the best location of any art fair in the world” during her visit to the Art Fair. Goldberg pledged to use her influence to bring key New York galleries to Cape Town for future art fairs. This is just the beginning for the fair… That Art Fair, launched in 2015 to run in conjunction with Design Indaba, is an artist’s art fair. This ARTsouthAfrica initiative aims to be for “African artists who work under the radar of the traditional art establishment and who do things a little differently”. It will provide an interesting counterpoint to the Cape Town Art Fair. The game changer for Cape Town promises to be the Zeitz Museum of Contemporary Art Africa (MOCAA). “It will be the biggest museum of contemporary African art on the continent,” opines Jamal, “with a potential traction equivalent to the Bilbao Guggenheim Museum and the Tate Modern in London.”

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of the bright and layered felt murals by Cape Town-based artist Jody Paulsen.

Tamzin Lovell Miller, director and coowner of the Sulger-Buel Lovell Gallery in Woodstock, agrees: “The Zeitz will establish Cape Town as a centre of excellence. You cannot underestimate the value of such a museum to boost the art industry as a whole. We are really lucky to have the gallery here - it could have been in Kenya or Nigeria. The museum will stimulate interaction with experts from other museums, curators, artists, writers, collectors and scholars, who would otherwise not have come here. The museum will enrich our art community and create reciprocal opportunities. “The commercial impact will be massive. The museum expects to attract more than 500 000 visitors per year - the spin-off will be enormous. The industry is already seeing some of the impact. New galleries have opened and some have scaled up.” Zeitz will play an important role in pulling Cape Town out of its parochial slumber, says Lovell Miller, and the city is already contributing to the debate around African

PHOTOGRAPHS: SULGER-BUEL LOVELL GALLERY, JODY PAULSEN, ZEITZ MOCAA

‘The Tribal Comeback’ is typical

art – whether contemporary African artists should be regarded as African artists or contemporary artists who happen to be from Africa, is the question. Emma Bedford rates the museum as a “cultural facility of global significance that provides an intellectual and cultural focus for Cape Town”. The local art scene does not lack critical engagement or intellectual rigour. South Africa owes the quality of its art to the fact artists benefit from the “best art education that includes a balanced emphasis on practice, theory and history”. Local art is still competitively priced, attracting international buyers keen to invest in emerging markets. Says Bedford: “South Africa is now part of a global art market. Buyers, connected to the internet, will follow the art they want to see and acquire. Speaking from the point of view of Strauss & Co, our buyers are from Europe, the UK, the USA, Canada, Australia, New Zealand and Asia.” More South African artists are gaining recognition internationally and local intellectuals contribute significantly to the discourse about African art within a global context. “South African artists who have firmly established themselves internationally include Cape Townborn painter Marlene Dumas, William Kentridge and Penny Siopis, whose retrospective Time and Again has given her wider recognition. Willem Boshoff’s work is attracting major collectors. Sue Williamson and Berni Searle are supported and collected mainly by international institutions. Photographers Guy Tillim, David Goldblatt, Pieter Hugo, Mikhael Subotzky and Zanele Muholi are sought after internationally,” notes Bedford. A younger generation are honing their craft in a post-apartheid cultural environment and asserting themselves, too: Robin Rhode, Candice Breitz, Zander Blom, AthiPatra Ruga, Georgina Gratrix, Kudzanai Chiurai, Serge Alain Nitegeka, Vivien Kohler, Emma Willemse and Kemang Wa Lehulere are some of those contributing to the South African art debate. The favourable exchange rate obviously serves as an incentive for international

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collectors, says Emma van der Merwe, curator at the Everard Read Gallery in Cape Town. But it is her opinion that Africa has much to contribute to the Western art discourse and that is why our art is sought-after by collectors. “Our ideas are complex and provide a fresh perspective, and our artists are examining subject matter that resonates with international art lovers. When African galleries venture to London, New York, Berlin and Basel, our work excels on a global platform.” Deborah Bell, Dylan Lewis and John Meyer all have representation in museums and collections abroad. Nigel Mullins, Nelson Makamo and Penny Stutterheime are making waves. “And fresh from his hugely successful exhibition at the CIRCA gallery space in Johannesburg, Wayne Barker is preparing his solo presentation at the 1:54 Contemporary African Art Fair New York.” Tamzin Lovell Miller says artists like Wim Botha, Jane Alexander, Nicholas Hlobo and Zwelethu Mthethwa continue to produce work that intrigues collectors. But there is a crop of emerging artists Nandipha Mntambo, Mohau Modisakeng, Jenna Burchell, Dineo Seshee Bopape, Blessing Ngobeni, Carolyn Parton and Igshaan Adams who are exploring South Africa’s turbulent past and the struggles

of the individual within contemporary society in bold new ways. Art critic Ivor Powell writes that there is “a dynamism, commitment and identity in the arts such as we have not seen since the dawn of the South African democracy”. The Goodman Gallery has been at the forefront of the art discourse since 1966, putting artists like Kentridge, Brett Murray, Kendell Geers, Sam Nhlengethwa, Diane Victor, Jeremy Wafer, Clive van den Berg, David Koloane, Alfredo Jaar, Liza Lou, Misheck Masamvu and Mikhael Subotzky on the map. And the gallery’s mission is no less fervent than when it started out. Finally, Ashraf Jamal sums up the Cape Town art scene by referencing a 1899 painting by British artist James Ford. Entitled ‘Holiday Time in Cape Town in the Twentieth Century’, the painting has proved “uncannily futuristic”. “At the glossy foot of Table Mountain we see a crazy mix of European architecture from Gothic to Neoclassical to the weird Venturi postmodern spin-offs we would become accustomed to, in which anything and everything came together to create a frenzied tentacular aesthetic. That’s Cape Town! A mix, a mashup, a reverb. Part colonial, part now, caught in a time warp that allows for nostalgia, dreams - even an art revolution.”

An artist’s impression of the refurbished grain silo in the V&A Waterfront that will house the new Zeitz Museum of Contemporary Art Africa, due to open in 2017.

A NEW LANDMARK: ZEITZ MOCAA In choosing the venue to house his extensive collection of contemporary art from Africa, German businessman and philanthropist Jochen Zeitz chose the historic grain silo in Cape Town’s V&A Waterfront. With 24 million visitors a year, the area is visited by even more people than the pyramids of Egypt. Zeitz reveals that he considered many cities across Africa before settling on the waterfront, which he feels “is an iconic location in an iconic city”. Built in 1921, and at 57 metres tall, the grain silo has long been a feature of the Cape Town skyline. It is currently undergoing a radical refurbishment and will open in 2017. Zeitz MOCAA will spread over nine floors and 9 500 square metres, placing it among the leading contemporary art museums worldwide. Some 6 000 square metres will be given over to exhibition space, while an entire floor will be dedicated to education in order to develop a new art-loving, museum-going audience. The Zeitz Collection has been gifted in perpetuity to the Zeitz MOCAA, a non-profit institution that holds the art “in trust for the people of South Africa”, according to Mark Coetzee, executive director and chief curator of the Zeitz Museum. The V&A Waterfront contributed R500 million to the museum, while Zeitz has underwritten the running costs.

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The sparkle of la dolce vita

From jewellery glittering with colourful precious stones to sophisticated scents and accessories, not to mention hotels, Bulgari is a long-standing hallmark of seductive indulgence. by Maryna Strachan

Artisan jewellers still craft Bulgari’s Serpenti creations by hand, using an exuberant selection of glittering gems. Bulgari La Gemme pays homage to these gemstones with a selection of six sophisticated scents, such as Ashlemah, which takes its inspiration from amethyst.

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ulgari’s glamorous gems, whether set in bracelets, necklaces, rings, earrings or brooches, have an undeniably spine-tingling effect on women. While most of us fear the snake, the allure and beauty of the brand’s iconic Serpenti Collection awakens an altogether opposite emotion. The serpent has been one of Bulgari’s most emblematic symbols since the 1940s, when the company first created bracelet-watches in the form of a snake, but the heritage of this Roman-Greco brand stretches back even further. The story starts with a man named Sotirios Bulgaris, a Greek silversmith from a long line of artisans who immigrated to Italy in the 1880s. Sotirios set up his first shop in Rome’s Via Sistina in 1884. Working all hours of the day, he crafted distinctive silver accessories modelled on a Neo-Hellenic style that combined Byzantine and Islamic design elements. His pieces featured allegorical, floral and foliate motifs and proved a big success, especially with English tourists visiting

Rome, and paved the way for expanding the family business. Ten years later, in 1894, Sotirios Italianicised his name, becoming Sotirio Bulgari, and opened a shop on Rome’s Via Condotti. From here he traded a variety of goods, ranging from his silver creations to antiques, bric-a-brac and jewellery. In 1905, the shop moved to its current location at 10 Via Condotti, where it still serves as the flagship store for the 130-year-old brand. Originally called the ‘Old Curiosity Shop’ to capitalise on the tourist market, it was renamed Bulgari in 1934, two years after Sotirio’s death. Together with the name change came a renewed focus on jewellery, with Sotirio’s sons, Giorgio and Costantino, taking the business back to its creative origins. It was during the 1930s that Bulgari created one of its most popular designs, the Trombino ring. The name derives from its shape, which is reminiscent of a small trumpet. Giorgio Bulgari is said to have given one of the first examples of this now iconic design to his future wife, Leonilde.

The sparkle of la dolce vita Featuring a blue sapphire surrounded by emeralds and rubies, this ring is typical of Bulgari’s use of yellow gold, the cabochon-cut and bold colour.

The Diva collection takes its name from the movie stars who wore Bulgari during the glamorous 50s and 60s, and its fan-like shapes are inspired by Elizabeth Taylor’s make-up in the 1963 film Cleopatra.

It was in the 1940s, though, that the most radical changes to the brand’s core business took place. Restrictions imposed by World War II saw Bulgari move away from working in silver and platinum and start to produce jewellery in gold, with colourful precious gemstones used as embellishments. Following fashion, they also moved away from the geometric Art Deco shapes of previous decades and started to take their inspiration from more natural shapes – such as the sinuous snake. The first exemplars of the serpent motif appeared in the late 1940s when Bulgari launched its first bracelet watches. These were highly stylised designs with coils realised either in tubogas or in gold mesh that wrapped around the wrist and harked back to Ancient Greek and Roman designs, where the snake was an emblem of wisdom and eternity. This watch was subsequently made in increasingly varied versions, with every possible case and dial shape. Versions are still made today, with the

current Serpenti Collection including not only bracelets and watches but rings, sunglasses and handbags. The jewellery is still made by hand, too, with artisans taking 150 hours to meticulously craft a small bracelet. The company distinguished itself from the competition still further in the 1950s, when it began to develop its own strong design aesthetic. Moving away from the trends set in fashion design capital Paris, it developed a distinctive style based on structured, symmetrical shapes, almost always made in yellow gold. This period also saw a ‘colour revolution’ with Bulgari designers developing highly personal colour combinations. They abandoned the traditional emerald-rubysapphire triad associated exclusively with diamonds and started to choose gems for their colour rather than their intrinsic value. Bulgari creations became multicoloured and the chromatic combinations more and more daring. Another break from the norm was a generous use of cabochon – highly polished, convex-cut and unfaceted – stones in prominent positions. Traditionally, the cabochon cut had been reserved for gemstones of lesser value, but Bulgari made it a hallmark regardless of a stone’s worth. It marked the birth of an “Italian School” of jewellery with Bulgari at its centre. Bulgari’s bold, colourful creations were a hit with the international jet-set, and the endorsement of style icons and celebrities such as Audrey Hepburn, Elizabeth Taylor, Sophia Loren and Gina Lollobrigida soon catapulted the brand to new heights.

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Richard Burton is reported to have given Elizabeth Taylor dozens of Bulgari pieces, beginning with an emerald and sapphire ring that he presented to her on the set of Cleopatra in 1963. “I introduced her to beer,” the Welsh actor once said, “and she introduced me to Bulgari.” In a January 2003 interview, Taylor recalled that whenever Burton showed up with a package from the Via Condotti jewellers, “I would jump on top of him and practically make love to him in Bulgari”. The 1970s saw the brand spread across Europe and into the American market, with stores opening in New York, Geneva, Monte Carlo and Paris. It was also a period of eclectic creativity, with designers drawing inspiration from both modern and ancient sources for its striking designs. In the Pop Art spirit, everyday objects like playing cards or ice creams were turned into playful jewels and, following the opening of its New York store, a line called Star Spangled Banner was launched, which used red and blue enamel or lapis lazuli to bring the colours of the American flag to fun pieces. In fact Andy Warhol once remarked that “for me calling at Bulgari’s shop is like visiting the best exhibition of contemporary art”. Meanwhile, in a break from the brand’s usually colourful creations, the popular Monete range set ancient coins with pavé diamonds and mother-of-pearl on pink and yellow gold. These ‘historical’ pieces soon became another emblem of the

fast-expanding brand, and the range was relaunched in 2012. It was also in the 1970s that Bulgari introduced its still important principle of ‘wearability’. According to this idea, jewellery needs to be suitable for any occasion, not just for grand events. Bulgari started setting most of its creations in yellow gold, which it believes allows even the most valuable jewels to be worn in an informal manner. Another of its iconic ranges that had its beginnings in the 1970s is Bulgari Bulgari. It was introduced in 1977, with the launch of the brand’s first men’s watch and saw, for the first time ever, a logo became the prominent decorative element in a piece of high jewellery.

The strong Bulgari style shines through in its latest High Jewellery Collection, which features bright colours and generous proportions.

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The sparkle of la dolce vita

The B.zero1 range, launched

PHOTOGRAPHS: BULGARI

in 1999, has fast become a

The Bulgari success story continued into the extravagant 1980s, where its bold, striking designs found a natural market. But its designers continued to experiment and innovate, especially when it came to making jewellery more ‘wearable’. Coloured silk cords – never before used for the purpose of holding fine gems – were introduced, and steel and ceramic also started to make an appearance. Further innovation followed when Bulgari expanded into the fragrance market, releasing Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert in 1992. It’s a venture that proved hugely popular and the perfume range has expanded in leaps and bounds since, with top noses such as Alberto Morillas, Jacques Cavallier and Daniela Andrier hired to create quality scents that embody Bulgari’s exuberant style. Its most recent fragrance release is called La Gemme, and takes its inspiration from the colourful gemstones so synonymous with Bulgari jewellery. Created in collaboration with Givaudan perfumer Daniela Andrier, each of the six fragrances is inspired by a different gem and is packaged in a distinctive flacon with a brightly coloured top representative of that stone. “I have a very poetic relationship with precious stones, which are a true source of inspiration,” says Andrier. “The way Bulgari exalts precious stones is very mysterious and even magical. For a woman, a fragrance is like a jewel, an ornament and a form of light: for me, there is a clear analogy”. The 1990s also saw the launch of Bulgari eyewear and accessories, including bags,

belts and wallets. In the true spirit of Bulgari, these are made from colourful, exotic leathers and exude both the brand’s luxury values and its sense of uninhibited joie de vivre. The 21st-century has seen even more diversification. In 2001 Bulgari signed a joint venture with Marriott International to create Bulgari Hotels & Resorts in exclusive locations worldwide. The first hotel opened in Milan in 2004 and the first resort in Bali in 2006. Restaurants in Tokyo and Osaka have followed, as well as a hotel in London. Further projects are set to complete in Shanghai, Beijing and Dubai in 2016 and 2017. Another milestone moment was in March 2011, when LVMH acquired the brand then ranked as the world’s third-largest jeweller by purchasing the Bulgari family’s 50.4 percent stake in the company. Three years later, in 2014, Bulgari celebrated its 130th anniversary. In honour of the occasion, it released a silver and ceramic Save the Children pendant as part of its B.zero1 line. A hit with a new generation of style icons, it joins the B.zero1 Save the Children ring launched in 2010, both of which have raised tens of millions of dollars for the global charity. As the brand continues to evolve, cutting edge design and quality craftsmanship continue as core values. The ‘serpenti’, a symbol as old as time, is still as mesmerising today as when Elizabeth Taylor portrayed the iconic Cleopatra – and women across the globe continue to sparkle in Bulgari’s wearable creations.

modern classic. The iconic rings feature bands in white, yellow or rose gold – engraved with the Bulgari logo – on either side of tubogas bands set with pavé diamonds, ceramic or even green marble.

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The human subject Attorney Gary Eisenberg framed by some of the photographs in his treasured collection that he says “reflects history manifest in the present human condition”.

A preoccupation with the human challenge has seen attorney Gary Eisenberg become a leader in the field of SA immigration. by Michelle Marais

hose whose lives have been touched in one way or another by South Africa’s immigration regime are all able to confirm one thing: Gary Eisenberg’s reputation as a thought leader in this field precedes him. Almost two decades after he founded Eisenberg de Saude, the highly successful firm has more than tripled in size and has established itself as one of the country’s premier immigration firms under the tenacious attorney’s leadership. Eisenberg’s professionalism, determination and progressive mindset has not only been noted by his peers – Eisenberg proudly holds the title of Best Immigration Lawyer in South Africa as voted by Best Lawyers for the second consecutive year – but his expertise was recognised by democratic South Africa’s first Minister of Home Affairs, Mangosuthu Buthelezi, when he asked Eisenberg to comment on his final Cabinet draft of the Immigration Act of 2002, on which all subsequent immigration legislation has been based. While completing his Juris Doctor degree at Tulane University Law School in New Orleans, Louisiana, Eisenberg was introduced to the study of international trade law, which sparked an immediate

interest in this field. “My eyes opened onto a peculiar mind space of global trade regulation, multinational treaty negotiations and cross border movement of goods, services and people. I returned to South Africa in 1991, and at that stage it appeared that this was a novel field of study. Since commercial opportunities in the field in South Africa were hardly existent, I wrote and published prolifically in my field,” Eisenberg says. It was while serving articles at Miller Gruss Katz & Traub Inc. in 1995 that Eisenberg was handed the file of a renowned British artist and told to “sort out his immigration status”. He succeeded to do so quickly and was awarded a bottle of vintage Veuve Clicquot for his efforts. Earning only a few thousand rand a month, being rewarded in such a royal fashion whet his appetite to pursue the practice of immigration law. “I applied to join two of the foremost law firms in Cape Town to establish an immigration/international trade department but was rejected by both. I was also politely advised that I had no chance of becoming a partner at the firm where I was completing my articles. With my twin children approaching their

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“For any developing country with inherent skills deficits like South Africa, an efficient immigration system is essential to its intellectual advancement,” believes Eisenberg.

first birthday and realising that I was completely unappealing to other law firms, I had no choice but to strike out on my own.” On 3 March 1997, with R8 000 in his pocket, Eisenberg opened Eisenberg de Saude (then called Eisenberg & Associates) in Cape Town’s Riebeek Street. “My motto has always been ‘Sweet are the uses of adversity. Which, like the toad, ugly and venomous, wears yet a precious jewel in his head’ from William Shakespeare’s As You Like It,” he says. “I have never shied away from adversity and have dealt with and responded to it as if it were a normal part of my life.” It is this ethos, combined with Eisenberg’s understanding of not only South Africa’s immigration law but the importance of a just immigration regime, that motivates him to continually combat South African immigration law’s stringent regulations and governmental misfeasance. “For any developing country with inherent skills deficits like South Africa, an efficient immigration system is essential to its intellectual advancement. South Africa is experiencing a decline in economic growth, competitive advantage, and as a recipient of foreign direct investment. Our immigration system needs to successfully attract people with great ideas, who are productive members of society and whose money will contribute significantly to South Africa’s economic and technological development,” he explains. “One has to remember that up until 2003, apartheid legislation was still used to regulate the influx of foreigners. Thanks to Minister Mangosuthu Buthelezi and his law advisor Mario Gaspare R. Oriani-

Ambrosini, a total paradigm shift took place that began to regulate carefully every aspect of immigration policy. Because of massive and corruptive abuse when the country’s borders were open, South Africa’s immigration apparatus needed badly to be corrected and repaired. This meant that South Africa’s immigration bureaucracy was stretched to its administrative limits,” Eisenberg continues. “Due to this, the public service has been unable to cope adequately with the demands of South Africa’s immigration legislation. Many foreigners who apply for temporary or permanent residence face an extremely trying time and are often forced to uproot their families and leave the country due to unlawful decisions with respect to their visa applications.” In a bid to put an end to this, Eisenberg and his law partner Stefanie de Saude have developed focused expertise in litigation in these areas and often find themselves in court representing and fighting for the rights of foreigners who wish to call South Africa their home. It is this particular preoccupation with the human subject and its existential challenges that has fuelled one of Eisenberg’s other interests. “I am first and foremost a photograph collector,” he says. “My collection traverses important photographers from Bettina Rheims, Nan Goldin and Wolfgang Tillmans to Guy Tillim, David Goldblatt and Pieter Hugo. The human experience is the golden thread running through my life and it ties me to a rich history of immigrants – from the destruction of the First and Second Temples in Jerusalem and the exiles of the Jewish

people which ensued, to the tumultuous migrations of Jews throughout Eastern Europe and my own birth from Eastern European refugees. My life is a complex composite of shattered pieces creating light, hope and faith in tomorrow’s promise and my photograph collection reflects history manifest in the present human condition.” When he’s not fighting on the frontier of South African immigration, Eisenberg enjoys travelling to countries such as India and Holland. “I am deeply inspired by the history and culture of these countries. The root of Western thought lies in the Indus Valley. For me, India plays an enormous role in understanding ancient and contemporary thought. My international travels refresh me and give me hope in the future of mankind. South Africans are part of a community of nations interacting with each other over time and space and travelling enables a person to keep a reasonable perspective,” he explains. Amid his professional achievements, it is this ‘reasonable perspective’ that allows Eisenberg to stay objective and strive for greatness. “Although Eisenberg de Saude is reaching its 20th anniversary, we are still a young enterprise gearing up for expansion and for excellence. To me, being able to work is a privilege and I hope to retain the ability to work hard until my dying breath. Retirement will never be an option.”

Eisenberg de Saude Attorneys at Law ABSA Centre, 2 Riebeek Street, Cape Town Telephone: +27 (0)21 421 7003 Website: www.edslaw.co.za

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A distillation of Africa The marula fruit is the size of a small plum. It’s fermented into wine, double-distilled and oak matured for two years before being mixed with fresh cream to produce Amarula Cream liqueur.

Made from the fruit of the legendary marula tree, long a source of nutrition for Africa’s people, as well as a favourite elephant snack, Amarula is a truly golden South African success story. by Maryna Strachan

ave you ever tasted the distinctive tang of the Highveld after a summer rain storm, or the sensuous smoothness of velvet caressing your skin? This is what Amarula Cream liqueur delivers – sip upon decadent sip. Creamy and sweet, the vibrant marula fruit flavour is intertwined with notes of caramel, spice, a touch of citrus and is simply a delight for the taste buds. Tall and leafy, the marula tree (Scelerocarya birrea) grows wild across sub-Saharan Africa. Only the female tree bears the yellow-skinned and white-fleshed fruits that are generally harvested from late January through to March. While many wild animals enjoy feasting on these succulent and nutritious fruits, their biggest (and biggest) fans are elephants. The size of these pachyderm admirers comes in handy if the tasty fruit hasn’t yet fallen to the ground – the elephants simply ram the tree until their favourite snacks rain down. Problem solved! It is, however, a myth that elephants enjoy getting drunk on the fruits. This is simply not possible as the fruit would

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need to ferment first, in order to turn into alcohol. In South Africa, the marula tree is predominantly found in the Limpopo Province in the far north of the country. Local rural women harvest the fruits every year, sometimes with infants or small children strapped onto their backs. The money earned from each harvest is often the only annual source of income for roughly 60 000 families. The marula fruits are taken to various collection points and payment is calculated per kilogram delivered. The price paid for the fruit is agreed upon annually after long negotiations between Amarula producers, Distell, and the chiefs of the clans that help to gather the harvest. Tribal heads negotiate the best prices for their people, knowing that the financial gain from each harvest is what keeps them alive for another year. Marula trees yield on average between 500kg and two tons of fruit, which is harvested by hand, much like wine grapes. The fruit is separated from the flesh before being fermented. This

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A distillation of Africa The Amarula brand now includes not just the famous cream liqueur but Amarula Gold, an amber-coloured spirit that can be enjoyed neat or with a mixer.

The production of Amarula yields jobs for many locals, from the women who make the bottle’s distinctive tassel to the rural Limpopo communities who harvest the fallen marula fruit.

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creates a wine-like liquid, which is then double distilled and matured in small oak barrels for approximately two years. It is at this point that the traditional Amarula Cream and the more recently introduced Amarula Gold part ways. While Amarula Gold remains as a golden spirit, the recipe for Amarula Cream includes the addition of fresh dairy cream. This truly original African drink was a trailblazer when it was launched in 1989, and introduced the taste of the exotic marula fruit to a global audience. Twenty six years later, it is still as popular as ever, and has won a cache of awards and medals for excellence. The versatility of Amarula Cream is one of its most appealing factors. Whether served over crushed ice, as is or within a delicious cocktail, it adapts to a range of different taste preferences. Many wellknown chefs refer to the liqueur as the “dream cream”, because they believe that it adds depth and roundness to decadent desserts and even savoury sauces. Its following is such that there’s even an ‘ice restaurant’ named in its honour. Located in Centropolis Laval, a short drive west of Montreal, the Amarula Ice Restaurant is a partnership between Snow Village Canada and Montreal’s gastronomic star, Auberge Saint-Gabriel. In this snow and ice setting, SaintGabriel’s chef, Eric Gonzalez serves black chocolate cake with marinated pears and salted butter caramel that pairs to perfection with a glass of the restaurant’s namesake cream liqueur. A more recent addition to the Amarula

family is Amarula Gold – a bold, goldcoloured spirit that also sells globally in duty free outlets. It took South Africa by storm when it was released in 2014, and demand was so high that production had to be increased in order to satisfy the thirst of local consumers for ‘Gold’. Amarula Gold is silky smooth with seductively spicy and fruity notes that glide over the tongue. Its payoff line, “Go where the spirit takes you”, inspires adventurous combinations of the spirit, which is mixed with Appletiser, ginger ale, passion fruit or cranberry juice, or served in a “golden” cocktail. But while the drink may be all about the fun ‘spirit of Africa’, for its producers this spirit extends to sustaining communities and conscious conservation. The Amarula Trust aims to preserve nature and wildlife with the creation of employment and conservation initiatives, and so hopes to leave a living legacy to future generations. One of its key initiatives is the Amarula Tassel Project. Started in 2003, the innovative women’s job creation project in the Western Cape employs 85 women to thread, knot and brush out the distinctive braided tassels that adorn the neck of every Amarula bottle. The money they earn helps to pay their children’s school fees, provide their families with more nutritious food, and even, in some instances, buy homes of their own. Another important project is the Amarula Elephant Research Programme (AERP), started in July 2002 under

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PHOTOGRAPHS: AMARULA

the direction of Professor Rob Slotow of the University of KwaZulu-Natal. The programme researches elephant behaviour, movements and eating patterns with the aim of contributing to conservation through finding better ways of managing elephant in wild areas in South Africa and beyond. A second wildlife initiative is The Amarula Field Guide Scholarship Programme. This sponsors people to attend the South African Wildlife College in Hoedspruit for a month-long course that enables them to complete their Level 1 Field Guide Association of South Africa (FGASA) certification. Candidates are selected from eco-lodges as well as from local communities for the scholarship, which not only helps to advance eco-sustainability but also provides important employment skills. To learn more about this truly African

drink, a visit to the Amarula Lapa, near Phalaborwa in Limpopo Province, is a must. This simple but luxurious thatch, stone and wooden lapa is open to fans of Amarula all year round, while close by is the processing plant where the fresh marula fruit is brought during the harvesting season. Visitors can sample various Amarula cocktails, buy Amarula memorabilia and learn more about the origins of the world-famous brand. It’s a popular stop for many travellers en route to one of the Big Five reserves for which the area is known. And after finding out how the drink is crafted, what better way to end your day than sitting overlooking a waterhole with a glass of Amarula over ice in your hand? As the sun sets and the elephants emerge for their evening drink, take a long sip and savour the taste of the African bush.

A TREE OF LEGEND The deciduous marula tree is one of Africa’s botanical

treasures,

with

archaeological

evidence showing that it has been a source of nutrition for millennia. The trees grow to about 18 metres tall and can be found from Ethiopia to KwaZulu-Natal. They produce flowers from September to November and bear fruit from January to March. The fruit is extremely high in vitamin C and can be eaten fresh or cooked to produce jam, juices and alcoholic brews. One of the latter is mampoer, a potent local moonshine named after Pedi chief Mampuru, who favoured the spirit. The small kernel of the fruit – called the ‘food of kings’ by the Thonga – is also tasty and a rich source of protein, while its oil is used as a skin moisturiser. The leaves are eaten to relieve heartburn and the astringent bark has a range of medicinal uses, including treatments for fever and malaria.

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Hatching art from shells From tables and mirrors to photo frames and decorative balls - Avoova transforms a wide range of furniture and accessories into one-of-a-kind works of art using a luxury ostrich eggshell veneer.

Avoova has grown a thriving business in a small Karoo town through handcrafting luxury accessories from ostrich eggshell. by Maryna Strachan

he Karoo is known for its harshness. Arid landscapes and vast plains of nothing but a few hardy plants, thorn bushes and the odd wind pump. In between are traditional Karoo towns, each with its own charm and a fair share of colonial architecture. It was to one of these towns, Prince Albert, that conceptual artist, Gideon Engelbrecht, was drawn in the mid1990s. A friend brought him some broken ostrich eggshells, believing that Gideon might know what to do with them – and he did. He started to experiment with a number of techniques and bonding agents, and the end result was a chair covered with ostrich eggshell. It looked good and he received so much positive feedback that Gideon started to make once-off pieces on request, or he would exhibit and sell them in the local art gallery for a decent return. Tom Goddard, an Englishman who had recently relocated to South Africa, was exploring Prince Albert when he came across one of Gideon’s pieces. Formerly a director for luxury brand LVMH’s liquor arm, Tom saw and appreciated the effort and quality of the craftsmanship that went

into the piece. He’d never seen anything like it before, and tracked Gideon down. From there Avoova was hatched. The name hails from the Latin word for egg, which is ‘ova’. Put the word back to back with itself and you get Avoova. The business officially started in 2003 with Gideon in charge of design while Tom took care of management and administration. The pair invested in a hatchery, which they started on the edge of town. This still supplies the factory with ample raw material, while the hatchlings are sold on to local ostrich farmers. At any one time, there is a minimum of 10 tons of ostrich eggshell in stock since the birds breed only once a year. The initial focus of the business was on honing skills on smaller items. The production process itself is extremely time consuming and heavily labour intensive. “The final product is much like a combination of a veneer effect on wood and mosaic”, explains Tom. Setting, sanding, polishing, repeated several times, is pretty much the basic process, which is continually refined in order to ensure the best finish. Once the design is sketched and confirmed, the

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Celebrating Womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Day A fabulous concert in the Cape Town City Hall on Sunday, 9 August 2015, 15h00

Zolani Mahola

Magdalene Minnaar Judy Paige

Kim Kallie

Zanne Stapelberg

Sterling EQ

Noluvuyiso Mpofu plus

Katlego Maboe as the host of the show

perform together with an all-female

Cape Town Philharmonic Orchestra

For more information and tickets visit www.computicket.com

Each piece, whether it be an aluminium bowl or a decorative horn, is individually decorated by Avoova’s artisans

PHOTOGRAPHS: AVOOVA

in Prince Albert.

eggshell is applied to the base product and inlays of pewter, copper and silver are added. Each piece of eggshell is individually placed in order to ensure that the shape is kept and the design brief is adhered to. From the full staff complement of 50 employees, there are approximately 25 to 30 women who only do the shell layout. Once the layout has been done, each piece goes through a minimum of 40 different processes, depending on its complexity and design. Only the best quality components are used on each Avoova product, to ensure that the highest standards are met at all times and each item is subjected to a series of quality checks throughout. The Prince Alfred community has seen major benefits from the Avoova factory as it is the biggest private employer in the area. Each factory worker has roughly five to eight dependents and thus a number of families are supported by its efforts. The first real break for Gideon and Tom came when a large order was placed by Spilhaus, the designer homeware store. From there, the company followed a gradual growth path as it set up its first stores. A humble beginning in a shop at the bottom of Cape Town’s Bree Street was followed by the opening of a second store in Franschhoek and a third at the V&A Waterfront. “It’s been a great progression. We started the company with a vision and today we are proud of what we have built up in such a relatively short space of time”, comments Tom. With key Western Cape sites covered, the expansion followed a natural path to

Johannesburg were there are currently two Avoova shops – in Hyde Park Corner and most recently in the newly refurbished Four Seasons Hotel. A store adjoining the factory building in Prince Albert has also opened to capture the passing tourist trade through the popular Karoo town. In 2010 Gideon left the business to explore other interests but he still consults for the company on an ad-hoc basis. Several clients, including members of the Oppenheimer family, have commissioned bespoke Avoova pieces, ranging from tabletops to chess boards. One client is Russian businessman and Chelsea Football Club owner, Roman Abramovich, who has several Avoova items adorning his luxury yacht, among them intricately patterned coffee tables and mirrors. Avoova furniture pieces, including impressive bar counters, stools and pedestals made in a range of shapes, colours and sizes, can also be found in

upmarket restaurants and resorts around the world. Collaborations with furniture designers such as John Vogel and Andrew Dominic have also been hugely popular and have widened the offerings. Today, Avoova pieces are available in a range of styles and shapes, from exquisite mirror frames, bowls, ice buckets and wine coolers to tables and stools, belt buckles and even jewellery. It would seem that any object can be turned into something truly special with the addition of polished ostrich shell. Owning an Avoova piece is similar to acquiring an original piece of art – it’s a completely once-off work that can’t be replicated, plus it combines beauty with function. Asked whether he has a “dream piece”, Tom replies: “I’ve always believed that it’s about the setting, but personally I think that a beautiful, organic table in a contemporary environment where there’s a contrast between natural and artificial elements would be rather spectacular.”

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For over two decades Yann Fillioux has guided the style of Hennessy, headquartered in Rue de la Richonne, Cognac.

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CELEBRATING THE FINEST FAMILY SPIRIT With a history stretching back eight generations, acclaimed cognac maison Hennessy celebrates its 250-year anniversary with a breathtaking new blend and remarkable world tour. by Richard Holmes

The vineyard roots run deep in the hills of the Charente valley in southwestern France. Spreading their tendrils far down into the chalky soils, the vines here know a thing or two about ancestry; their gnarled and woody stems an innate connection to the rolling hills that tumble down to the Charente River. This is a place defined by both history and terroir, that unique combination of geography, geology and climate. The vineyard rows that stretch across this landscape like lines of bright green corduroy are, by and large, of a grape known as ugni blanc. It’s a grape long associated with the Charente valley, the ancestral home of cognac and the village that bears its name. And yet ugni blanc is a foreigner. A traveller from distant lands that arrived here in centuries past and over the years has become indelibly associated with this most regal of French departements. From these humble white wine grapes springs forth the fabled eaux-de-vie, the raw spirit that is the very genesis of any great cognac, that golden-hued barrel-

aged spirit acclaimed worldwide. And, like the vines, local families have deep roots here too. Long histories immortalised by the grand châteaux that line the banks of the Charente as it flows through Cognac. And of all the families that call this elegant village home, perhaps none is more famous than the name of Hennessy. The world was a very different place in the year 1757, when Richard Hennessy hung up his soldier’s boots. Born into an aristocratic Irish family it was war in Europe that first brought Hennessy to the continent, one of the so-called ‘Wild Geese’ fighting in the armies of King Louis XV. When peace arrived, he stayed on the continent, first setting himself up as a trader of cognac eaux-de-vie in Flanders, then establishing himself in Cognac, where he started his company in 1765. Decades passed and the lure of America beckoned, but Hennessy stayed, putting down roots in the French village. From humble beginnings come great things, and little could Hennessy have known that his successful business would

The Hennessy 250 Tour, which celebrates the maison’s past, present and future, started at the Zaha Hadid Opera House in Guangzhou, China, in March.

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A NEW BLEND WITH A PROUD PAST

Embracing both heritage and innovation, Hennessy is the most famous maison along the Charente River in Cognac.

form the beginning of one of the greatest dynasties in the world of cognac. Fastforward 250 years and in the plush surrounds of Château de Bagnolet, the Hennessy’s ancestral home in Cognac, a portrait of the original patriarch gazes down on the eighth generation of Hennessy to lead the grand marque. Maurice Richard Hennessy is a dapper, debonair man. A quiet presence in a finely tailored woollen suit, he’s affectionately dubbed ‘Le Grand Voyageur’ as he travels the globe preaching the golden gospel of Hennessy. Through the generations the ideals of travel and exploration, in both discovering new markets and breaking new ground in the production of fine cognac, has been in the DNA of the Hennessy brand. As far back as 1794 clipper ships were carrying precious barrels of Hennessy across the Atlantic to New York. By the end of the century the acclaimed cognac had made its mark south in the sultry islands of the Caribbean. In Europe, the brand was the choice of royalty. In 1817 the Prince of Wales, who would become King George IV of Great Britain, was a connoisseur of cognac and asked Hennessy to create a “very superior old pale cognac”. Today, the acronym VSOP – Very Superior Old Pale – has become a benchmark for the entire cognac industry. Looking east, Russia’s Tsar Alexander I sipped on the amber liquid as far back as 1818, the year before Hennessy travelled to India for the first time in a bid to keep the English colonists of Calcutta in fine fettle. The 1800s were a crucial time for Hennessy. As global trade expanded thanks to far-flung colonies and everfaster sailing ships, the marque was being enjoyed across the globe. By the close of the century, Hennessy could be found from Peru to China, New Zealand to Hong Kong. The first shipment of Hennessy XO landed in Shanghai in 1872, and the People’s Republic of China continues to be a driving force behind the global boom in cognac sales.

Yet it wasn’t just a surge in demand that defined the 19th century as a golden age of cognac. Maurice Hennessy – great-grandson of the founder Richard – was an innovator who applied enormous energy into ensuring the maison moved with the times. And with the era of Maurice, another great house of the Charente stepped onto the cognac stage. For it is all but impossible to mention the name of Hennessy without including Fillioux. Over seven generations the Fillioux family has been the Master Blenders for Hennessy, charged with tasting the thousands of barrels of eauxde-vie to select and blend the perfect cognac. While father Christophe and grandfather Jean laid the foundations for the Fillioux tradition, it was Emile Fillioux – who shared a vision of continuity with Maurice Hennessy – who revolutionised the brand with the creation, in 1870, of Hennessy XO. This was a watershed moment for both Hennessy and the world of cognac. It marked the arrival of an entirely new style, a cognac rich and robust with an elegance and purity matched only by the deep amber hue delivered by years spent in carefully selected barrels. On the palate, spice and black pepper are balanced by the nuanced hint of candied fruit. XO was also a feather in the cap of the Master Blender, combining the disparate traits of a hundred individual eaux-de-vie into a singular, superlative whole. With XO, the sum is truly greater than the parts. Together with Maurice, Emile also created the star classification that allocated a varying numbers of stars to indicate the quality of a bottled cognac, an innovation that was soon adopted by the entire industry. Perhaps the most famous example is the Hennessy ‘three star’ cognac, today known as VS (Very Special). Emile was also the first to formalise the art of blending, adding structure and formality to this delicate dance between art and science. For while crafting the raw spirit and ageing it in oak barrels requires enormous skill, the defining character of a cognac comes down to the blending.

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Consistency from one assemblage to the next is crucial, and the Herculean task of blending millions of bottles together to create a singular product falls on the shoulders of the Master Blender. Since 1991 those shoulders have belonged to Yann Fillioux, the seventh generation of the family to hold the esteemed office.

The Hennessy 250 Tour, a travelling exhibition of contemporary artists, also launches the Hennessy 250 Collector Blend (below).

“Consistency is not a dream. It’s a procedural, rigorous approach,” explained Yann in a recent interview with the Sunday Times. “Blending cognac is a science more than it is an art… the art is in the selection of the eaux-de-vie.” But Yann won’t work alone. Hennessy is unique for its Comité de Dégustation, a formal tasting committee of experts that was first established by Raymond Fillioux. The committee will sniff and sample up to 40 vials of prized eaux-devie, deciding where and how they should be blended, or whether they require yet more years maturing in the cool, dark cellars of Cognac. Ensuring both quality and consistency, these men hold the keys that unlock Hennessy’s memory. Perhaps no surprise then that the youngest members of the committee may not express an opinion until they have 10 years of experience in tasting. That apprenticeship may seem arduous, but “you can’t play a melody as complex as the composition of a cognac if you

don’t master all the notes,” explained Maurice Fillioux, Master Blender from 1958 to 1991. That melody begins its performance in the ugni blanc vineyards that surround the village of Cognac, where over 75 000 hectares of vines carpet the hills of the Charente valley. At the end of summer the grapes are picked and fermented into a wine low in tannin and free of sulphur. It’s a white wine that would, politely, be termed unpalatable. However, its subtle qualities make it perfect for the concentrating effect of distillation, and it is here that the art of crafting cognac begins. To eventually embrace the name cognac, the wine must be distilled twice using a copper Charentais pot still, a shape specific to the region. The master distiller applies his skill here, too, using a combination of taste, smell and intuition to separate the harsh alcohols of the ‘heads’ and ‘tails’ of the distillation, sending only the aromatic ‘hearts’ into barrel. In this clear eaux-de-vie is the blank canvas of Fillioux’s art, the building blocks of what could one day become an acclaimed VSOP, or perhaps a prized XO. But there’s a long road ahead. According to the strict rules of the Cognac Appellation d’origine controlee the aged spirit may only be called cognac if it is aged for a minimum of 30 months in barrels of French oak. Not any oak, mind you. The wood must be sourced from the Limousin or Tronçais forests, then crafted by a local cooper into barrels. It is the character of the wood that imparts the tannin and colour to the eaux-de-vie, and eventually delivers – after 30 months or perhaps even a 150 years – a cognac worthy of the name. The XO wasn’t the only blend to make its mark on the world of cognac. In 1979 Maurice Fillioux, an ardent musiclover, created the masterpiece known as Paradis, named for the Hennessy cellar in Cognac where only the most prized eaux-de-vie are matured. While XO was bold and forward, “Paradis is defined by its finesse, its delicacy,” explains Yann of his uncle’s creation. “Paradis takes us into the realms of emotion.”

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In 2011 Yann took that emotion a step further with the introduction of Paradis Impérial, a tribute to the cognac crafted for the Russian Imperial Court of Tsar Alexander I nearly two centuries before. Aged for between 30 and 130 years, with some eaux-de-vie dating back to the middle of the 19th century, it’s a dramatic cognac fit for modern-day royalty. And, in 2015 Yann has created a landmark blend marking the 250th anniversary of Hennessy to complement a wealth of celebratory events throughout the year. In April two barrels of the Hennessy 250 Collector Blend set sail aboard Hermione, an exact replica of the sailing frigate that delivered French General La Fayette to the United States and played a crucial role in the American War of Independence. On arrival the barrels will be auctioned off for the benefit of cultural and charitable associations. Hennessy has always embraced both heritage and modernity, and it is fitting that the highlight of the celebrations will see the Hennessy 250 Tour showcase the brand’s heritage through a travelling exhibition of contemporary artists. The exhibition, curated by world-renowned international curator Hervé Mikaeloff,

features a six-chapter journey through the world of Hennessy. The tour takes in Guangzhou’s Zaha Hadid Opera House, Moscow’s New Manege and New York’s Lincoln Centre, before being installed in Johannesburg’s acclaimed Circa Gallery in August 2015. “Hennessy embodies a blend of global and local, urban and rural, modern and traditional, and nowhere is this spirit more wholeheartedly expressed than here in South Africa,” comments Patrick Madendjian, Moët Hennessy Market Manager. “We are incredibly excited and proud to be only one of five host countries for this travelling exhibition.” In September it will travel to a yet-to-berevealed location in Paris for the grand finale, having encircled the globe before returning to its French roots. It’s an apt metaphor for the 250-year journey of Hennessy itself. Created by a man setting off into the great unknown, this iconic brand has traversed the globe while becoming an indelible part of both the French landscape and the world of global luxury. Pushing boundaries yet remembering heritage. Embracing modernity while respecting tradition. Deep roots will do that for you.

Maurice Hennessy and Yann Fillioux, custodians of the brand into the 21st century.

MARKING 250 YEARS In the long history of Hennessy only a handful of special blends have been added to the stable; the likes of Hennessy XO, Hennessy Privé and Hennessy Paradis. Paying tribute to seven generations of Master Blenders before him, Yann Fillioux has created an unrivalled cognac to mark the 250th anniversary of Hennessy this year. The Hennessy 250 Collector Blend has been carefully crafted from 100 individual eauxde-vie, each painstakingly assessed by the Comité de Dégustation as being worthy of inclusion in this landmark cognac. With the eaux-de-vie identified, the spirits were aged in 250 handcrafted barrels of Limousin oak, each barrel holding precisely 250 litres and gently matured in the cool cellars of Cognac. Finally judged ready for release, and embodying the long history and great distinction of this acclaimed marque, the limited edition blend is an unrivalled cognac offering aromatic tones of spice and bitter orange, fresh nutmeg and heady saffron. A few of the 250 barrels have been kept aside for charity auctions around the globe. The contents of the majority of the barrels, however, has been bottled in special collector’s decanters. The Hennessy 250 Collector Blend will be launched as part of The Hennessy 250 Tour, which appears in Johannesburg in August 2015. A gift-boxed decanter will retail

PHOTOGRAPHS: HENNESSY

at approximately R6 000.

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Atlantis, The Palm · DUBAI n Experience the mystery of fabled Atlantis, mixed with the magic of Arabia, at this landmark family friendly hotel at the apex of Palm Jumeirah island. From the moment you arrive, you’ll be immersed in a dazzling world of fantasy and five-star luxury. The hotel has 1 500 rooms and offers world-class facilities, including the tranquil ShuiQi Spa, the Aquaventure Waterpark for watersports of all descriptions, and the Atlantis Kids Club and Club Rush to keep youngsters and teens engaged. You can also expect the best fine dining, with a host of restaurants, bars and lounges boasting world-renowned chefs and serving up a variety of different cuisines. www.atlantisthepalm.com

Palais Namaskar · MOROCCO n The Far Eastern philosophy of feng shui has influenced every detail of this Marrakech palace, where privacy, discretion and five-star service are the order of the day. The tranquil taupe-toned suites open onto wide terraces, backing onto the stunning main pool or the sprawling Balinese-inspired grounds. No stay is complete without a visit to the sumptuous spa, or a roof-terrace sunset cocktail and delicately flavoured shisha at No Mad Bar, while Le Namaskar offers a pocket of urbane Parisian elegance serving up gourmet Moroccan, Asian and Mediterranean dishes. www.palaisnamaskar.com

Brenners Park Hotel & Spa · GERMANY n This grand destination spa in Baden-Baden sits on the

doorstep of the Black Forest among the verdant surroundings of the Lichtentaler Allee park and arboretum. Sample culinary delights in its top restaurants, relax in the beautiful garden to the sounds of piano music floating in the breeze, or cocoon in one of the 110 rooms, where elegant antiques and marble bathrooms set the tone for a luxurious stay. www.brenners.com

Pimalai Resort & Spa · THAILAND n Set in a lush tropical forest overlooking the endless blue waters of the Andaman

Sea, this five-star beach resort on Koh Lanta promises the perfect combination of nature and luxury. The name derives from ancient Sanskrit and means “a little patch of heaven”, which is what you’ll experience as you soak up its wonderful serenity and genuinely friendly service. Laze next to the infinity pool, wander along the pristine beach or enjoy an exquisite massage at the spa. Spacious, air-conditioned rooms with teak floors and rattan curtains open onto private balconies, while five restaurants and bars serve up fresh seafood and authentic Thai cuisine. www.pimalai.com

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One&Only Palmilla · MEXICO ■ This Los Cabos resort, long an exclusive hideaway for the rich and famous, is now better than

ever with refurbished guest rooms – tastefully decorated with handcrafted Mexican accents – that offer expansive views of the Sea of Cortez from a private patio or balcony. French chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten brings his internationally renowned culinary style to new steakhouse Seared, while Agua by Larbi features the award-winning Mexican cuisine of Executive Chef Larbi Dahrouch. When you’re not exploring the dramatic coastline, follow the path through the tropical gardens to the gorgeous revamped spa. www.oneandonlypalmilla.com

Opulent Living travel Compiled by Florian Gast Words by Anne Duncan

Our editorial team has selected a luxury cruise liner and six dream destinations from around the world that promise outstanding holidays and truly special experiences.

To book any of these selected hotels, resorts and journeys please contact the experienced team at Opulent Living Travel: +27 (0)21 433 1699 office@opulentliving.travel www.opulentliving.travel

Hôtel du Cap-Eden-Roc · FRANCE ■ With a gracious history stretching back to 1870, this French Riviera hotel is renowned for its glittering setting on the southern tip of Cap d’Antibes – as it is for its famous guests, who use it as a base for the Cannes International Film Festival. Set in 22 acres of parkland along a beautiful stretch of the coast, the luxurious rooms, suites and villas ooze refined luxury and boast expansive views. Simple gourmet cuisine inspired by fresh seasonal produce graces the menu, while deluxe pampering is on offer at Spa EdenRoc Sisley. www.hotel-du-cap-eden-roc.com

Oceania Cruises · WORLDWIDE ■ Experience the world’s great ports from the luxury of Oceania’s mid-size ships, which call around the world, taking in historical cities and modern meccas, charming seaside villages and faraway islands. Each day offers the rewarding opportunity to experience the history, culture and cuisine of a wondrous new destination. On board, you’ll not only find spacious designer staterooms and every modern facility, but exquisite cuisine that rivals the best restaurants in the world. You’ll also experience great value for money as lavish complimentary amenities abound and there are never supplemental charges in any of the onboard restaurants. www.oceaniacruises.com

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Graff Coloured Diamond Floral Bangle ■ This exquisitely feminine bangle, incorporating the rarest of diamonds, outlines

the silhouette of three delicate blossoming flowers. The stunning bangle is set with an exceptionally rare trilogy of diamonds – a 4.69 carat Fancy Grey Blue Pear Shape Diamond, a 3.08 carat Fancy Vivid Yellow Pear Shape Diamond and a 1.53 carat Fancy Intense Orange Pink Heart Shape Diamond – and celebrates Graff’s internationally renowned reputation for the most fabulous jewels in the world. www.graffdiamonds.com

Shimansky diamond engagement rings ■ A Shimansky original, My Girl is the world’s first square-cut diamond with a diamond-

shaped table. It delivers a mesmerising dance of light and is delicately set in platinum or 18K white, yellow or rose gold to create an elegant, contemporary ring. The Evolym ring is another original Shimansky design and features three bands, with or without micro-set diamonds, that showcase a round brilliant cut or My Girl diamond. www.shimansky.com

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Calendar Meteorite ■ New to the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master

Cartier fountain pen ■ Part of a line of Exceptional Pens from the renowned

French jeweller is this Zebra motif fountain pen. A limited-edition series of just 18 individually numbered pieces priced at US$40 000 each, the pen features stripes in palladium-finish 925 sterling silver and black lacquer, and eyes in cabochon-cut onyx. It has a rhodium-finish 18K-solid-gold nib and comes with a stand in black lacquered 925 sterling silver. www.cartier.com

Calendar for 2015 is a striking version with a meteorite dial, cut from a stone that began life in the asteroid belt somewhere between Jupiter and Mars. Set in pink gold or steel, the unusual dial displays the day, date, month and phases of the moon in the trademark clear and easy-toread Master Calendar style, using the dial’s edge and a single sub-dial at 6 o’clock. It has the JLC-manufactured automatic 866 calibre beating away inside and features an alligator leather strap. www.jaeger-lecoultre.com

Rotwild GT S mountain bike inspired by AMG ■ A collaboration between Mercedes-Benz and German bicycle company

Rotwild, this high-end mountain bike is part of a limited edition of just 100 developed in consultation with the AMG Rotwild professional mountain-bike racing team. The ultra-lightweight carbon-fibre frame boasts full off-road suspension and features the solarbeam yellow and black scheme that has become the signature of the Mercedes AMG GT S. It has 29-inch carbon-fibre wheels, the lightweight Formula AMG R1 Racing FCS disc brake, and is fitted with Shimano’s new XTR electronic-shifting system, which makes changing gears faster and smoother. www.rotwild.de

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Opulent Living essence Compiled by Florian Gast Words by Anne Duncan

Bang & Olufsen BeoPlay A9 ■ Designed and crafted like a beautiful piece of furniture, the BeoPlay A9 one-

point music system delivers powerful, high-quality sound for all your music needs. It connects to a digital music source using AirPlay, DLNA or Bluetooth 4.0 and has built-in access to Spotify Connect, Deezer and TuneIn to give access to millions of songs, playlists and radio stations. www.beoplay.com

Boca do Lobo Millionaire safe

Arthur Kaplan Night & Day ■ Arthur Kaplan’s beautiful Designer Collections

have an underlying grace and femininity that is instantly recognisable, and are crafted with an exquisite attention to detail and a passionate focus on quality. This beautiful set is part of the Night and Day Collection. Both items are 18K white gold set with Round Brilliant Cut white, black and naturally grey diamonds. www.arthurkaplan.co.za

■ The latest limited-edition piece from cuttingedge Portuguese furniture designer Boca do Lobo is this safe cabinet that doubles as a work of art. Made of mahogany that has been coated in highly polished brass and dipped in gold, it opens with a secret code to reveal fabric-lined walls and a set of lockable drawers. www.bocadolobo.com

Jo Malone Rock the Ages Cologne Collection ■ New from British fragrance house Jo Malone is the Rock the Ages range of five classic colognes inspired by five eras in British history. Tudor Rose & Amber refers back to the days of Henry VIII, Pomegranate Noir is a nod to the golden age of Queen Victoria, Lily of the Valley & Ivy recalls the pastel gentility of Georgian London, while Geranium & Verbena captures the cool elegance of Edwardian summers. Finally, for 2015, there’s the sophisticated Birch & Black Pepper. www.jomalone.com

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Monarch Hotel â&#x2C6;&#x2122; South Africa

Royal refuge in the bustling city of gold Situated in the affluent suburb of Rosebank, the Monarch Hotel seduces sybarites who desire proximity to Johannesburgâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s exclusive retail outlets, fine restaurants and cultural attractions â&#x20AC;&#x201C; as well as the swiftest way to the airport. With its tranquil charm, lavish traditional interiors, service excellence and fine dining restaurant, this prominent heritage landmark has fast become the ultimate urban sanctuary for both tourists and business travellers to the cosmopolitan metropolis.

Once the Saxonwold Post Office, the 18th-century landmark building in central Rosebank boasts warm, lavish interiors, such as the colourful Cigar Lounge, where guests can relax with a pre- or post-dinner drink.

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ike the rare Monarch butterfly that undergoes a prolonged four-stage metamorphosis, the eponymous hotel in Rosebank started out as a telephone exchange in the 1930s, morphed into the Saxonwold Post Office until the 1990s, became a boutique hotel in 2005, and after an expansive refurbishment, transformed into what it is today – a tranquil haven within walking distance of the Gautrain station. Within the walls of the double-storey, 18thcentury Cape-style national monument you’ll find an affluent ambiance in muted shades of gold, beige and gray. Signature service promises a memorable stay. Think swift, efficient check-ins; deep, sound sleep in a huge comfy bed and plump,

velvety chairs. The Monarch Hotel provides a serene refuge within bustling, vibrant Johannesburg. Antique collectables and an extensive art collection featuring South African painters offset contemporary furnishings within refined interiors that include a cigar lounge where guests can relax with drinks, and a smoke-free lobby with butternut walls and artfully arranged seating. The effect is quirky, yet soothing in a “wow, the designers got this so right” way. Talented chef Dedrick Moeketsi presides over the hotel’s 25-seater restaurant where eating is an experience rather than a simple satiation of appetites. The menus are changed regularly so that only the freshest, hand-picked seasonal produce

can be integrated into his wide selection of delectable dishes. Think revelatory tastes and authentic, clean cuisine. Dedrick’s yummy breakfasts, lunches, and dinners feature on twitter, where even radio personality Jenny CrwysWilliams was moved to comment on her “divine meal” at the “quieter than quiet Monarch Hotel”. Wrought-iron entrances, rich fabrics, marble floors, brass banisters and panelled walls invite relaxation and contemplation, but that’s not the only reason discerning sybarites swear their allegiance to the Monarch. Yes, there’s the astonishing sense of quiet, but mostly it’s the space, glorious space, that guests enjoy – cocooned within any one of the 12 exclusive suites.

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King-sized beds with large, padded headboards and highthread-count linen promise a comfortable night’s rest. Guests can relax with drinks in the cigar lounge or lunch al fresco on the leafy terrace.

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provide the ultimate urban sanctuary for business travellers and tourists alike. By welcoming guests in modern style and traditional charm, we like to think we provide the best service in town. “We offer secure parking, house laundry services and 24-hour security. Our intimate 10-seater boardroom is ideal for business meetings and our immaculately furnished suites are masterpieces of comfort and opulence. Our staff ensures all guest desires are fulfilled as promptly as possible.” The Rosebank Mall is an easy walk, even in stiletto heels – ever so handy for when that designer shoe craving strikes. It’s where you’ll find a Wellness Centre, cinemas, restaurants, a gym, art galleries and whatever else your heart desires. Little wonder both local and international visitors looking for a convenient, luxurious base within easy access of OR Tambo International Airport choose Monarch, part of the renowned Mantis Collection, time and again. n Carolyn Hurry

Monarch Hotel

Rosebank, Johannesburg, SA Telephone: +27 (0)11 341 2000 Email: reservations@ monarchhotel.co.za Website: www.monarchhotel.co.za The nearby Gautrain offers services to OR Tambo International Airport, Sandton and the Johannesburg CBD.

PHOTOGRAPHS: MONARCH HOTEL

All offer the usual amenities one would expect from a five-star venue – electronic safe, flat-screen television, selected DStv channels, DVD player – along with underfloor heating, free Wi-Fi, gym voucher, heated towel rails, mini bar and facilities to make tea and coffee. With soft carpets, couches, velvet armchairs, sumptuous beds dressed in high thread-count cottons, and vast marble bathrooms with stand-alone tubs, the sheer size of the suites invites myriad possibilities. Guests can spread themselves out, invite people in, dance, or dog stretch on their yoga mats. Situated on the ground floor, the Presidential Suite has a private entrance, chef’s kitchen and separate bathrooms for visitors. The dining table seats 12 and there’s a grand piano in the lounge for impromptu concerts. Says General Manager, Jan van As: “The Monarch prides itself on being part of Johannesburg’s rich cultural history. We

Tickled.

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Selinda Explorers Camp · Botswana

The magic of a classic expedition Offering an intimate adventure across one of Africa’s last great corners of untouched wilderness, the secluded canvas escape at Selinda Explorers Camp is a vintage echo of the golden age of exploration…

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t is, quite simply, one of Africa’s most spectacular corners. Hidden away in northern Botswana alongside the famous Okavango Delta, the Selinda Reserve is a 129 000-hectare private game sanctuary. It’s perhaps most famous for the Selinda Spillway that runs through the heart of the reserve, linking the Okavango Delta to the Linyanti river system. Although dry for much of the year, when heavy rains eventually turn the sandy riverbed into a gushing cascade of crystal-clear champagne-coloured water, the region

boasts some of the finest game viewing in Southern Africa. While the game is abundant in the lush grasslands flanking the Spillway, Selinda is particularly famous for the vast herds of elephant and buffalo that gather on the banks of the Zibadianja Lagoon, particularly in the dry days of winter. Where there is water there is wildlife, and where there is wildlife you will find predators. No surprise then that Selinda also offers exceptional sightings of lion, leopard, cheetah and packs of endangered African wild dog.

It’s a wild and untamed corner of the continent that has drawn those of an adventurous spirit for centuries. David Livingstone wandered through here on his travels northwards through Africa, as did the acclaimed collector and conservationist Frederick Selous. Today the legendary British explorer lies buried under a tamarind tree in the Tanzanian game reserve that bears his name. The Selous Game Reserve was also where the Explorers Camp first put down roots. But this extraordinary escape is cut from the safari camps of old, and at its heart

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Getting up close and personal to game from the remarkable waterways of northern Botswana is one of the unique attractions of Selinda.

From romantic bucket showers to low-impact canvas suites, the camp offers a vintage safari aesthetic and firstclass comfort with a minimal environmental footprint.

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remains a wanderer too. The very word ‘safari’ means to journey, and after many years pitched in the heart of Tanzania’s acclaimed Selous Game Reserve, in 2012 the camp journeyed overland to its new home in Selinda, pitched just metres from the waterways for which the reserve is so famous. Since then this intimate camp of just four luxurious canvas suites has become one of the most sought-after back-to-basics escapes in Botswana, combining the stellar game viewing of Selinda with a rich safari heritage celebrated in a unique and stylish aesthetic. For the roots of this camp haven’t been left behind, despite its new location in the grasslands of Selinda. Richly textured East African rugs add a splash of oxblood colour to the tan and tawny tones of the surrounding bush, while scatter cushions invite you to laze away the afternoon scanning the grasslands for elephant. Romantic Arabian lanterns

and burnished brass bowls dot the richly furnished communal area, where friendly staff ensure your G&T never runs dry. Beyond the canvas awning of the communal dining tent, the campfire crackles merrily beneath the boughs of a cathedral mopane tree. In the fresh dawn chill before the morning’s game excursion the coffee pot will be singing its welcome over the glowing embers. Come evening, it will likely be replaced by a traditional three-legged cast-iron ‘potjie’ pot with the chef’s latest creation simmering before dinner. Meals here are a sumptuous affair served family-style at the communal table, where tales of the day can be swopped over homely African cuisine paired with fantastic South African wines. But then no two nights are the same: if the weather is fine the tables may migrate to beneath the branches of the sheltering cathedral mopane tree, bringing the night sounds to the dinner table and installing the Milky

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Way as your star-spangled chandelier. Crystal glasses and white linen come standard, of course, because while this may be the wildest corner of Selinda, there’s no skimping on creature comforts. The same goes for the four intimate canvas suites. Each one is a marvel, given the remoteness of the camp: spacious double beds are draped in crisp white linen, while leather-bound wardrobes fashioned in the style of vintage travellers’ trunks encourage you to unpack and feel at home. Each tent boasts en-suite facilities, with gleaming copper washbasins and both hot and cold water provided in large jugs. The bucket shower, filled on request with piping hot water, is enclosed on all sides yet open to the wide African skies for a view of heavenly bodies above. The abandoning of unnecessary extravagance runs true to this ecofriendly camp’s philosophy of touching the earth lightly. The canvas suites and communal area were all constructed

by hand to ensure all but no impact on the delicate Selinda eco-system. Unlike most other camps in northern Botswana, Selinda Explorers Camp also runs entirely on solar energy, foregoing the noisy diesel generators that both break the silence and sully the night skies. The camp also has a sophisticated greywater treatment programme, and uses water pumped from deep beneath the earth – then purified via reverse osmosis and ultra-violet light – to ensure a steady supply of safe, clean drinking water. With its remarkable location and excellent game viewing you may well be tempted to laze away the days in the comfort of camp, admiring the pristine bush that stretches down to the waterways. But there are a myriad better ways to explore this unique untouched wilderness. Although regular game drives take guests exploring further afield, true to the camp’s philosophy of touching the earth lightly, non-motorised activities take priority

here. This watery wonderland lends itself to leaving dry land behind, and canoe excursions offer an unforgettable gameviewing experience. The hours slip by as softly as the crystal-clear waters beneath your boat as you paddle silently up to grazing herds of elephant, or watch the reed beds for shy red lechwe, a remarkable semi-aquatic antelope common to the region. When the heat of the Botswana sun takes its toll, the expertly trained guides will beach the canoes in safe sandy shallows for you to take a dip in the gentle waters of Selinda. But remember this is still virgin wilderness: crocodiles prowl the deep channels, while hippo are quick to guard their territory in the pools and river eddies. On the grasslands between the channels, prides of lion patrol the tawny bushveld in search of unwary zebra and impala. For while you will spend much of your time here on the water, there’s no shortage of delights to be found

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With wildlife flocking to the seasonal spillways, Selinda is famous for offering some of the finest game viewing in Botswana.

Selinda Explorers Camp

Selinda Reserve, BOTSWANA Telephone: +27 (0)87 354 6591 Email: res.manager@ greatplainsconservation.com Website: www.greatplains conservation.com

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and water birds to tick off your list. And waiting for you at the end of a long day of African adventure is the remarkable Selinda Explorers Camp. With the crackle of the campfire sending sparks into a sky spangled with stars, and the sounds of the bush rustling just beyond the glow of the flames, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hard not to sit back and think the likes of Livingstone and Selous would have felt right at home here. n Sebastian Bartlett

PHOTOGRAPHS: GREAT PLAINS CONSERVATION

on terra firma. In the cool of the late afternoon, guided walks set out to discover the nuances of this remarkable wilderness. These walking safaris take guests tracking elephant and other game on foot, but will also see you discover the subtle wonders of the landscape: the candle-pod acacias that thrive in dry river beds, or the remarkable leaves of fan palms. The birding is spectacular here too, with an abundance of raptors

One of five Great Plains Conservation camps in Botswana, Selinda Explorers Camp is only accessible by scheduled air transfers or private air charters. The road transfer from the air field is approximately 45 minutes. The camp is closed between December and February each year due to seasonal rains.

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Lawhill Luxury Apartments ∙ South Africa

Freedom to explore Cape Town’s V&A Waterfront with its prestigious five-star hotels, yacht marina, upmarket boutiques and restaurants is top of every visitor’s list. A luxury apartment in the quiet residential area gives the best of both worlds: peace, seclusion and privacy with easy access to the Waterfront buzz and the attractions of the city centre.

here’s a growing trend among discerning travellers, especially those travelling with extended family and friends, to choose the privacy and independence of luxury self-catering accommodation. While it may lack the immediate glamour of a five-star hotel, those in the know have long since discovered that by choosing the right luxury serviced apartments and villas you get all the convenience and comfort of a top hotel, together with the freedom to create a home from home and live life at your own pace. Eat out at all of the

best restaurants in town, and use the fully equipped kitchen to throw together a simple meal with delicacies garnered from the local artisan food market, or indulge in a leisurely breakfast in bed. Even better the kitchen is magically restored to pristine splendour by the daily housekeeping service while you are out exploring the city. In Cape Town, where there is so much to see and do, so many places to eat out (the Mother City was recently voted thirdbest food city in the world by readers of Condé Nast Traveler) picking a centrally

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Light and airy, the penthouses offer sweeping views over both the Marina and Table Mountain, with all rooms opening onto a wide terrace.

located base is key to enjoying a relaxing holiday. When it comes to location, Lawhill Luxury Apartments ticks all the boxes. Tucked into a secure residential complex in the prestigious Waterfront area overlooking the marina, right next door to the legendary One&Only hotel, a short walk to the restaurants, shops, markets and boat rides of the V&A Waterfront and mere minutes by car to central Cape Town and Table Mountain, the luxury serviced apartments are ideally placed. All the apartments look out over the canal to the marina and the One&Only

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island with its famous spa and curving swimming pool. Waking up to a glorious day, seagulls crying overhead, light glinting off the water, a fresh salt breeze easing the heat of summer, breakfast on the wide terrace catching the morning sunshine is a must. Forward-thinking guests place a grocery shopping order with the apartments’ concierge service to be delivered for their arrival, so that there’s no need to go out for breakfast or to do your own shopping – unless you want to. Lingering over coffee and croissants while planning the day ahead, you need

simply look out of the side windows to see whether or not Table Mountain is covered by its famous ‘tablecloth’. If it’s clear and still, ring down to reception to ask them to book cable-car tickets; it’s just what is needed for a fuss-free Cape Town holiday. With luxurious contemporary décor by Marius van der Merwe of M Interiors, the 30 apartments offer a level of comfort that makes cocooning appeal. Soft couches with shaggy throws, cushy bar-stools upholstered in faux textured leather, twisted horn sculptures and artefacts create a restrained African

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Sip sundowners beside the private rooftop pool in the luxurious penthouse, where top-of-the-range contemporary furnishings and finishes by M Interiors provide absolute comfort and subtle style.

chic, with a lustre of light from quartz wall finishes and individual artworks reflecting the shimmer of water outside. Of course there’s free Wi-Fi and satellite TV, with a large flat-screen TV in both lounge and master bedroom, as well as air-conditioning. Best of all, the deep terraces flank the whole length of the apartment so that each bedroom has sliding doors opening out onto its own outdoor space. For the ultimate in luxurious Waterfront living, choose one of the two penthouses. Savour sundowners with the best views of a fabulous Cape Town sunset from the

wraparound terrace, relax on sumptuous upholstered sun loungers beside your own private rooftop swimming pool on summer afternoons, and spread out in the huge, light, double-volume lounge and open-plan kitchen. Three en-suite bedrooms, a guest bathroom and a second lounge, as well as private access directly from the wood-panelled lift complete the picture. The three-bedroom superior apartments are also exceptionally spacious (228 square metres plus a 121 square-metre terrace) and the two-bedroom superior apartments on the ground floor include

a private garden with plunge pool and direct access from the canalside walkway. Then there is a further selection of one-, two- and three-bedroom apartments, all with the same luxury furnishings and amenities. The efficient Marina Estate security service issues guests with digital access cards at registration and these not only allow entrance at the main gate but also unlock the pedestrian gate linking the apartments with the One&Only next door. So a luscious brunch at Reuben’s restaurant or a gourmet dinner at Nobu is only a two-minute walk away. The canalside walkway continues through the hotel grounds to the public Waterfront area close to the Two Oceans Aquarium and the newly opened Watershed, which showcases high-end craft and design. Robben Island tours, yacht excursions, the upmarket shopping and food markets of the Waterfront are all within easy walking distance, so your vehicle might well remain parked in the secure, free underground parking at Lawhill until the urge to explore further afield strikes. Then it’s only two minutes to the city centre and its many attraction, or onto the N1 freeway that heads out to the Cape Winelands around Stellenbosch, Franschhoek and Paarl for beautiful

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Lawhill Luxury Apartments

Victoria & Alfred Residential Marina, Cape Town, SA Telephone: +27 (0)21 418 2138 Email: reservations@ lawhillluxuryapartments.com Website: www.lawhillluxury apartments.com Set in a secure marina residential estate in the heart of Cape Town’s prestigious V&A Waterfront development, Lawhill is a 25-minute drive from Cape Town International Airport. The 30 luxury apartments include concierge services, daily housekeeping, access to the adjacent One&Only hotel and free parking. PHOTOGRAPHS: LAWHILL LUXURY APARTMENTS

The apartments are conveniently located next door to Cape Town’s One&Only, where the lavish spa offers specialised treatments and Nobu serves delicious sushi.

scenery and wine tastings. Or why not drive around the coast along spectacular Chapman’s Peak drive to Cape Point. One joy of staying in your own private apartment for a long stay is that not every day has to be spent out and about. A quiet day in might appeal after a longhaul journey, to laze around with a book and a feelgood movie, have a massage and restore body and soul. One call to the friendly concierge is all that is needed to arrange housekeeping for a time that suits, book a massage therapist to come to you, or make an appointment for an afternoon of pampering at the lavish One&Only spa just across the canal. By evening the glittering city lights beckon and the concierge service is there to make a dinner reservation for one of the many excellent Cape Town restaurants. Foodies looking to visit notable eateries such as The Test Kitchen should book weeks in advance to secure a table and in season many top restaurants book up fast, so be sure to discuss restaurant bookings at the beginning of your stay to enjoy the best of the best. For those craving independence, privacy, space and luxury when they travel, Lawhill Luxury Apartments could well become the place they call home whenever they’re in Cape Town. n Kit Heathcock

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Azura Quilalea Âˇ Mozambique

Island in the stream A private, uninhabited island paradise lapped by the warm waters of a pristine marine sanctuary, Azura Quilalea is a tropical gem tucked in far northern Mozambique. It lies deep in the Quirimbas Archipelago, far removed from the bustle of modern life; a place where modern-day castaways can relax and stretch their legs in quiet and luxurious seclusion.

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Couples looking for the ultimate honeymoon hideaway can book Villa Quilalea (left and opposite), set in seclusion on a clifftop overlooking the ocean, with a private plunge pool on the deck and a sumptuous bedroom complete with four-poster bed.

T Colourful furnishings set off the coral stone walls in reception, while the large en-suite bathrooms in the Kusi Villas include a feature indoor/outdoor shower.

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he sun is high and so is the tide of the turquoise Indian Ocean. It doesn’t get much better than this – stepping out the door of your magnificent seaside villa, straight into the warm ocean before you, to swim, snorkel or dive. This private island, surrounded by the pristine waters of the Quirimbas Archipelago marine sanctuary, offers a luxury hideaway that’s off the radar, off the wall for divers, and off the chart for barefoot luxury lovers. Part of the Azura Retreats group, the nine seafront villas dotted around the island are a haven of African-style chic. Surrounded by indigenous gardens or natural bush, they’re magnificently hewn

from local materials. They have natural coral stone walls, carved wooden beams, makuti thatch roofs and timber wooden decks. Windows have reed shutters rather than glass, and are opened to let a breeze through by day. At night they’re closed for privacy, which is a top priority at Quilalea. Guests who want all the modern-day conveniences, including airconditioning, can flick the ‘luxe’ switch in their villas, while those who want to tread more lightly on this unspoiled island paradise can opt for ‘eco’ mode, which translates into power for the bare essentials of lights and fan. There are four Kaskazi Villas, with panoramic views across the ocean to

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Quirimba Island. Four Kusi Villas offer even more exclusive locations, along with an outdoor bush shower and hammocks for lazing away days in the sun. The ultimate hideaway, though, is Villa Quilalea. Located on its own private clifftop on the sunset side of the island, it’s the quintessential escape from the world – although the entire island can also be reserved for exclusive use should guests value complete privacy. Villa Quilalea is quite separate and offers decadent accommodation for a couple looking for total seclusion overlooking the lapping turquoise ocean, where the only intrusion comes from traditional cotton-sailed dhows wafting by. A step

ladder leads down to a private cove, where there’s a small beach at low tide, and immediate swimming and snorkelling when the tides comes in. For those who dive beneath the surface of these pristine waters, there’s a rainbow of colours to be enjoyed. Given the island’s position in the heart of the Quirimbas National Park, its waters are swarming with marine life – everything from schools of hunting jacks to Napoleon wrasse and huge potato bass. There are walls and rarely visited reefs just a short boat hop away, and a spectacular house reef for day and night diving. You can easily start your diving career here too, as the dive centre offers PADI dive courses.

Swimmers may even be lucky enough to encounter a school of dolphins, diving and jumping and playing all around them in the crystal-clear depths. It’s a breathtaking experience, and nirvana for marine-life lovers, who find themselves diving below the surface and then treading water with head above so as to experience the spectacle from every angle. The fishing around Quilalea is also legendary. Sport fishermen will be able to hook giant trevally and tuna, along with many other species endemic to the area. There are equally many bird species to keep twitchers busy, with 140 varieties that live in the area, including Madagascan bee-eaters that nest here every year.

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A great way to explore both land and sea is to take a kayak ride around the island, stopping en route to swim on deserted beaches – there are four in all. Take along a picnic packed by the lodge for sustenance, and keep an eye out for the humpback whales that migrate past Quilalea from July to October. Also be on the lookout for olive ridley, green and hawksbill turtles – they nest on the beaches from October to January, and hatch up until April each year. A day trip, by boat or by helicopter, to nearby Ibo Island is another option – to visit the white star-shaped fort, walk the sand streets of the crumbling colonial town, and watch traditional silversmiths crafting lacy jewellery.

But really, there’s no need to leave Quilalea at all. The retreat is sensitively designed to create uniquely personal spaces for guests, from a hammock under the trees to a daybed under a poolside umbrella and oversized cushions in a chill zone overlooking the ocean. For guests who want to connect with the outside world, the informal communal lounge has satellite TV and a laptop with internet access – plus there’s complimentary Wi-Fi in the lounge, bar and pool deck area. Or why not swap tales with other guests over a pre-dinner drink at the bar? Meals here are a full sensory experience. Whether it’s a candlelit feast on the beach, in the cosy wine cellar or the romantic intimacy of your suite, guests seldom dine in the same place twice, and the Mozambican hosts take special pride in their innovative dining set-ups filled with special touches. For breakfast you might find yourself seated at the water’s edge, while lunch might be a picnic on a sandy island. The menus are simple and understated, with a focus on what is fresh and local. The huge mangrove crabs are a particular speciality, as well as crayfish, which is available in abundance. And when your day in paradise is over, head back to the luxury of your villa to drift off to sleep surrounded by the sound of the sea. n Keri Harvey

Dinner at Quilalea is always a special event, with meals hosted on the water’s edge whenever possible. Dishes focus on fish and seafood fresh from the surrounding Indian Ocean and served in simple, understated style.

Azura Quilalea Private Island

Quirimbas Archipelago, Mozambique Telephone: +27 (0)11 467 0907 Email: reservations @azura-retreats.com Website: www.azura-retreats.com

PHOTOGRAPHS: AZURA RETREATS

Part of Azura Retreats, which includes Azura Benguerra Island in Mozambique and Azura Selous Game Reserve in Tanzania, Quilalea Private Island is one of the southernmost islands in the Quirimbas Archipelago and is accessed by a 25-minute helicopter transfer from Pemba International Airport.

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A DIFFERENT VIEW ON AFRICA German photographer Michael Poliza combines his passion for Africa with a true artistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s eye for colour and composition â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and his awe-inspiring aerial photographs bring a whole new angle to the astounding beauty, scale and diversity of the continent. Images by Michael Poliza

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QUIRAMBAS MOZAMBIQUE

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South of Vamizi Island, in the clear Indian Ocean waters for which this archipelago is renowned, a local fisherman and his hollowed-out tree-trunk canoe appear as if they are floating on air.

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LAKE TURKANA KENYA

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Central Island, an active volcano in Lake Turkana, has three scenic crater lakes, including Flamingo Lake, which is named for the flocks of these pink birds that are essentially supported by plankton masses in the water which feed the fish.

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SERENGETI NATIONAL PA R TANZANIA

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A RK

Any true wilderness reveals the drama of life and death. Here a fresh green tree contrasts with the ash outline of one that must have fallen and burned.

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LAKE CHAMO ETHIOPIA

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The largest Nile crocodiles recorded (around 5.5 metres in length) have all been from Lake Chamo in Ethiopiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Central Rift Valley, and the monster reptiles are clearly visible from the air in the shallow channels around the lake.

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MOREMI GAME RESERVE BOTSWANA

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Elephants, seen in abundance in Moremi, appear slightly purple in contrast to the warm-hued vegetation. This grouping meanders around a muddy patch created by some of the first rains of the season.

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MAKGADIKGADI PANS BOTSWANA

The Links not only has a beautiful layout â&#x20AC;&#x201C; it is probably the most challening course in Africa and I truly enjoy every round on it. Ernie Els

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Situated in the middle of the dry savannah of north-eastern Botswana, Makgadikgadi Pans is the largest salt flat complex in the world, stretching out over 12 000 square kilometres and presenting an eerie but dramatic isolation.

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SKELETON COAST NAMIBIA

Gemsbok are able to survive in even the harsh conditions of the Namib Desert coast thanks to an intricate network of blood vessels in the nose that cool down the blood supplied to the brain.

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A DIFFERENT VIEW ON AFRICA

Fascinated with electronics and IT from an early age, a new world opened up for Michael Poliza when he bought his first digital camera in 1996. It has led to a series of photographic safaris documented in awardwinning coffee-table books such as Eyes over Africa.

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When The New York Times reviewed Africa, Michael Poliza’s first photographic work on the continent that he has since specialised in capturing with consummate skill and sensitivity, it commented that it was a book that “might change the way you think about photography”. It was high praise indeed for a man who is no stranger to change, and has re-invented his career many times during the course of a varied and adventurous life that he seems always to have lived to the full. From actor to entrepreneur, and professional photographer to expedition leader and travel designer, he seems to excel at whatever he decides to devote his attention to. Born in Hamburg on New Year’s Day 1958, Michael was a prominent child actor, appearing in hundreds of television shows and theatre productions during his teenage years and becoming a well-known celebrity in his home country. At 17 he left Germany for the United States as an exchange student. As a result, he finished his schooling in Dallas, Texas, where he graduated from high school in 1976. Remaining in the States, he went on to study computer science at university in Tulsa, Oklahoma, before returning to Hamburg. Seeing the huge potential of the emerging information technology industry, he founded his own IT company importing IBM computers to Europe. By the time he was 21, he had about 120 employees working for him. By the late 1990s, his IT enterprises had seen him become one of the youngest millionaires in Germany. Then Michael bought his first digital camera in 1996 – and a new world opened up for him. In 1997, he sold his IT company and invested in a boat called ‘Starship’. It was to become the star of his next adventure – a round-

the-world journey to document the state of the planet’s wild locations at the turn of the millennium. His ‘Starship Millennium Voyage’ became a three-year, multimedia, environmental awareness expedition. Sponsored by Sony, Microsoft, Deutsche Telekom, Olympus and the WWF, Michael documented the state of wild locations and broadcasted his findings daily via the world wide web. Now fairly commonplace, at that time the internet project was a revolutionary idea – and it gave Michael an avid following of millions of nature lovers from around the world. He released his first book Die Reise der ‘Starship’ with publishers Frederking and Thaler in 2001. A photographic work that focussed on what had been discovered on that three-year voyage, it quickly became a bestseller, with more than 50 000 copies sold. Unusual for coffee-table books of the time, more than 50 percent of the photographs were digital images. It placed Michael among the pioneers of high-quality digital photography and showed that new digital technology held plenty of creative possibilities for anybody who was willing to experiment. In 2001 he returned to Hamburg, sold the ‘Starship’ and journeyed back to the continent that had stolen his heart – Africa. From his new home in Cape Town, he travelled far and wide across its wild spaces, documenting its beauty and fragility in a thitherto unknown quality. With art photography specialist teNeues, he published those photographs to massive acclaim around the world in July 2006. Africa was one of the most talked-about photography titles of the year, and was voted among ‘The Best Coffee-Table Books of 2006’ by ABC-TV’s Good Morning America. The first print run sold out in just three months.

“Discovering and travelling are my passion,” says photographer Michael Poliza. “I love to be in nature, away from any sign of civilization. Photography taught me to engage in tranquillity again and to wait patiently for a special moment for days in order to understand the rhythm of the wild.”

In late 2006, Poliza left on another photographic adventure: this time fulfilling a long-time dream of exploring Africa from a helicopter. Skimming close to the ground, he and his pilot flew over 17 countries on a zigzag route from Hamburg to Cape Town. In Eyes over Africa, published in 2007, Michael’s alluring, and often surprising, photographs share this exceptional journey with the world. From a bird’s-eye perspective, we witness the astounding beauty, scale and diversity of this imposing continent. The book’s large cinematic landscape format is a monumental homage to the cradle of mankind, and the XXL Collector’s Editions, which were 56cm in height and had 504 pages, ranked among the biggest books ever published. For his next book, Michael journeyed to the Arctic and Antarctic. Featuring his inimitable blend of intimate close-ups and cinematic landscapes, Antarctica leads us through the magical worlds of these frozen paradises most threatened by global warming. Michael shows polar bears frolicking among purple fireweed against an ice-white backdrop, varied and multicoloured icebergs, as well as a number of rare and endangered species. Soon after the book’s publication in 2009, Michael was recognised for his dedication to nature and wildlife around the world when he was nominated as an Ambassador for the World Wildlife Fund (WWF). Upon his return to Hamburg in 2010, the travelling photographer opened a gallery and showroom, which has allowed him to put his amazing images on permanent display. However, he was unable to stay away from Africa for too long. He returned to explore South Africa‘s back roads and capture the country’s diverse landscapes and people in the months leading up to the first ever FIFA World Cup to be held on African soil.

He also invited a selection of leading South African photographers to contribute work to the project, and South Africa was published in 2010 with images from Vanessa Cowling, Chris Fallows, Justin Fox, Craig Fraser, Chris Kirchhoff, Mandla Mnyakama, Obie Oberholzer and Thomas P. Peschak sitting alongside Michael’s distinctive pictures. This project drew Michael back to some of the imagery from his previous expeditions through the continent. The result was Classic Africa, a black-and-white interpretation of his favourite Africa pictures. The German fashion label Closed was so fascinated by the striking animal portraits featured in the book that it launched a limited capsule collection featuring Michael’s images only a few months later. Another joint project with friends followed with Kenya in 2011. In it Michael and fellow photographers Steve Bloom, Paul Mckenzie and Federico Veronesi masterfully convey the beauty of Kenya, from Lake Turkana and the Chalbi Desert in the North to the Maasai Mara National Reserve and Amboseli National Park in the south. Driven by concern for the fragile ecosystems and living cultures of our world, the images convey an emotional sense of this unique land. Mesmerised by the beauty and uniqueness of the wildlife and landscapes captured in his stills, friends started to approach Michael to ask him if they could take part in his photography expeditions. Never one to refuse a new challenge, Michael then founded Michael Poliza Private Travel in 2011 and Michael Poliza Experiences in 2012 (anyone interested in his trips can contact Opulent Living Travel). Shortlisted for a PURE award, the luxury travel brands take nature enthusiasts into the most secluded and untouched spots around the world today.

Michael’s awe-inspiring aerial images in Eyes over Africa reveal his special passion - graphics and geometrical structures. Through his lens, landscapes turn into captivating structures that a viewer will never forget. What fascinates him most are the infinite shapes nature is able to assume. His view turns a piece of soil, a detail of an animal or a single line of a landscape into a unique aesthetic unit. From the elements that offer themselves to him, he produces new, autonomous pictures - sometimes picturesque, sometimes analytical – estranged in their expression but always without disturbing the essence of nature. In a similar vein, Michael never gets too close to the people he portrays. His photographs of the Himba, Maasai or San, for example, speak of his respectful distance and great sensibility towards them. In Michael´s portraits, people appear to the viewer in their natural grace. As a photographer, he leaves nothing to chance – his pictures reveal his excellent sense for capturing just the right moment in a way that has rarely been seen before. As the Munich newspaper Süddeutsche Zeitung once put it, Michael´s photography is synonymous with an “enthusiastic bow” to nature.

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SHUTTERSTOCK

IMAGE COURTESY OF CRYSTAL CRUISES

IMAGE COURTESY OF MORE HOTELS

YOUR BESPOKE JOURNEY BEGINS HERE

Fabulous twins. Southern Africa, East Africa and the Indian Ocean Islands is our territory. A dedicated team will book your bespoke holiday with hotels, lodges and resorts known for their quality and personal service. We also turn your dreams of an ocean or river cruise â&#x20AC;&#x201C; anywhere in the world â&#x20AC;&#x201C; into reality. Unforgettable memories included. cruises@opulentliving.travel | office@opulentliving.travel +27 (0)21 433 0526 | www.opulentliving.travel

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Stanley & Livingstone Private Game Reserve â&#x2C6;&#x2122; Zimbabwe

Heritage of adventure Combining old-world opulence with a memorable wilderness experience, Stanley & Livingstone offers a tranquil oasis a short drive from the thundering Victoria Falls. An intimate lodge with just 16 luxury suites, it has established itself as one of the most charming boutique properties in this dramatic corner of Africa.

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enry Morton Stanley would certainly have approved. As would David Livingstone, the Scottish missionary and explorer whose body now rests in the hallowed halls of Westminster Abbey. Had these two giants of African exploration been tramping across the continent in the 21st century they would no doubt have chosen the lodge that bears their name to throw down their dusty duffel bags and hang up their pith helmets. Theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d have settled into the comfortable armchairs, called for a G&T,

and traded tales of their adventures across Africa. Today, 150 years after Stanley and Livingstone made their mark on the world, this idyllic boutique lodge provides a home from home for modern-day adventurers soaking up the sights and sounds of this colourful continent. And, unlike so many mainstream properties in the area, this intimate lodge favours wilderness over water in a unique offering combining the best of both worlds. Situated a short drive from the majestic Victoria Falls on the Zimbabwean side of

the Zambezi River, the lodge is located in a 2 400-hectare private game reserve bordering the larger Zambezi National Park. Home to all of the celebrated Big Five, giraffe, antelope and elephant wander freely here and a spacious terrace overlooking the lodgeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s waterhole brings the wilderness right to your doorstep. But step inside the front door and the heat and dust of the African bushveld quickly evaporate. In the heart of this remarkable wilderness area the lodge offers a serene colonial-style escape evoking the sumptuous comfort of the

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From Victorian-style décor to fine service, the boutique lodge evokes the golden age of travel in Africa, while placing modern-day adventure within easy reach.

The four chalets at Ursula’s Camp sleep eight guests and are well suited to families and small groups looking to book the entire camp.

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Victorian era. Wood-panelled walls and a deep mahogany desk greet travellers, along with a broad smile from the everhelpful staff. Sketched portraits of the legendary explorers will catch your eye here too, as will the original Africana and colonial-era artworks that line the walls leading through the lodge, immediately bringing the region’s rich history of African exploration to life. In the main lounge, deep armchairs beneath the soaring thatch roof give on to a roaring hearth perfect for warding off the chill of a winter’s night. Bookcases are piled high with tales of African explorers, while wildlife guides encourage you to plan your next day’s bush adventures. Statues of the lodge’s namesakes guard the stairway leading down to the intimate bar, where pre-dinner cocktails offer an opportunity to meet fellow travellers and forge friendships. Perhaps live out your own “Dr Livingstone, I presume?”

moment? Gin and tonics are de rigeur here, and best enjoyed on the spacious terrace, watching the golden sun sink beneath distant acacia trees. With the lanterns lit, dinner in the elegant dining room is a sensual affair. Expect white linen napery and crystal glasses, discreet service and superb haute cuisine prepared by talented local chefs. The lodge also boasts a substantial wine cellar, with guests encouraged to browse the collection of fine South African and European wines on offer. All of which will leave you dreaming of a good night’s sleep, and the suites at Stanley & Livingstone are a haven of rest and relaxation. With just 16 suites scattered through the gardens, Stanley & Livingstone is an intimate lodge, a place where guests become friends and the staff greet you by name. This personal touch and attention to detail is evident in each of the luxurious guest spaces. The spacious master bedrooms offer

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lavish furnishings and elegant colonialstyle décor; think four-poster beds with rich organza drapes, plush carpets and vintage artworks. The bathrooms are done up in a similarly classic fashion, boasting Victorian baths and timeless décor. Private patios look out over the lodge’s lush formal gardens, a perfect contrast to the untamed wilderness lying steps from the manicured lawns. While the feel of each suite evokes the grand days of travel, a colonial era of fine living in dramatic surroundings, there’s no shortage of modern comforts. Satellite television, air-conditioning and complimentary Wi-Fi come standard. And, for guests seeking an additional layer of exclusivity, the nearby Ursula’s Camp offers a private retreat for up to eight guests in four immaculate chalets. Comfortable though they may be, it’s a rare guest that doesn’t relish the chance to wake before dawn and leave their suite to explore the private reserve.

Twice-daily game drives traverse the property, where Big Five sightings are commonplace and skilled rangers bring the bushveld to life. For a close-up look at this remarkable landscape, walking safaris are also offered, adding a frisson of excitement to the experience of exploring the African wilderness. With an armed ranger leading the way, and your senses alert to animals that could be hiding behind every bush, there are few better ways to imagine yourself as Stanley or Livingstone setting off into the great unknown. The reserve is also home to a healthy population of endangered black rhino, and specialised rhino-tracking safaris are a highlight for many guests eager for a glimpse of this highly endangered species. The Big Five and plentiful large antelope are certainly the star attraction on the reserve, but they are not the only show in town: the reserve is a paradise for twitchers, with a wide variety of endemic

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PHOTOGRAPHS: STANLEY & LIVINGSTONE PRIVATE GAME RESERVE

Luxurious stand-alone suites are hidden amid the lush gardens, where quiet spaces offer plenty of opportunity to soak up the sights and sounds of the African bush.

and migratory species to be found on the extensive bird list. Fishing excursions to cast a line for the Zambezi’s legendary Tiger Fish are also easily arranged. For while you’ll be tempted to spend all of your waking hours exploring the private reserve or luxuriating in the comforts of the lodge, the immediate area also begs to be explored. Unsurprisingly the prime attraction is the Victoria Falls. Livingstone named them for his queen, while locally they are known simply as Mosi-oa-tunya: ‘the smoke that thunders’. Whatever you choose to call them, you’ll be hard-pressed not to agree with Livingstone’s appraisal, when he first chanced upon the Falls in November 1855, that “scenes so lovely must have been gazed upon by angels in their flight”. In summer, when the Zambezi is in full flood, the view is breathtaking as the rains that fell thousands of kilometres away in the Angolan highlands plummet down into the Batoka Gorge, showering the surrounding rainforest in a mist of water. In the dry months of winter, when the Zambian side is reduced to a mere trickle, the forested cliffs of the

Zimbabwean portion of the Falls remain captivating, a cascade of rivulets and waterfalls making their way inexorably towards the Indian Ocean. Once you’ve admired the Falls there’s no shortage of diversions: all of that water funnelling into the gorge ensures the Zambezi offers some of the most spectacular white-water rafting on the planet, while above the Falls the placid Zambezi is best explored by canoe – for the adventurous – or on a sunset cruise. Whatever your adrenalin levels, the helpful staff at the lodge are only too happy to help. Or, you could simply tick the Falls off your list and retreat to the stylish confines of this immaculate boutique hotel. Pull up a lounger alongside the sparkling pool and order a cocktail, or find a quiet corner and soak up the stillness of the reserve. Rest and rejuvenation, or the thrill of experiencing the African bush just minutes from the continent’s greatest natural attraction? It’s sure to be a tough choice, but if you find yourself torn between adventure and absolute relaxation, just ask yourself… what would Stanley or Livingstone have done?

Stanley & Livingstone

Victoria Falls, ZIMBABWE Telephone: +263 13 41004 Email: reservations@snl.co.zw Website: www.stanleyand livingstone.com Set on an expansive private reserve, this acclaimed boutique property offers a wilderness experience with easy access to the majestic Victoria Falls. Guests can fly into either Victoria Falls (Zimbabwe) or Livingstone (Zambia), both of which have international airports serviced by several flights a day from various destinations.

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Zarafa Dhow Suites · Botswana

A bygone grandeur With its unrivalled blend of bush luxury and exceptional exclusivity, Zarafa Dhow Suites in Botswana’s Selinda Reserve has carved out a niche as one of Africa’s most unforgettable safari getaways.

eace. It’s something so many of us seek amid the demands of modernday living. We seek out a simpler world with a slower pace, where there is time to stop and soak up the beauty of our surroundings. To find space to breathe, and reconnect with ourselves, our family, our beloveds. To craft unforgettable memories in a timeless landscape that cares little for clocks or deadlines. That place is Zarafa Dhow Suites.

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Pitched on the remote eastern edge of the private Selinda Reserve, Zarafa is only accessible by light aircraft. Cut off from the world by watery channels and hundreds of kilometres of wilderness, it is as far from the madding crowd as you could hope for. But more importantly, it is situated in what is perhaps the finest wilderness region in all of Africa. The Selinda Reserve, a 129 000-hectare sanctuary in northern Botswana, is

perhaps most famous for the remarkable Selinda Spillway, an ancient channel that connects the Okavango Delta with the Linyanti River. Linyanti and Okavango are both iconic names in the annals of African wilderness destinations, but for those in the know Selinda easily takes its place alongside them. For Selinda is a secretive place, revealing its wonders only to those with the patience and tenacity to venture a

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Opulent bathrooms spill outdoors, with eye-catching brass fittings turning a simple shower into a work of art. A vintage aesthetic runs throughout Zarafa Dhow, imbuing the camp with a sense of timeless glamour.

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little farther from the beaten track, to leave the tourists behind and venture forth with the true safari travellers. While a handful of other camps in Selinda Reserve offer a superlative wildlife experience, the exclusivity of Zarafa Dhow Suites – booked solely on an exclusive-use basis and sleeping just four adults at a time – promises an entirely unique way to discover this immaculate wilderness. And perhaps the best place to start is with the destination’s unusual name. On the drive from the airstrip, the Zarafa rangers will no doubt regale you with the story of how the camp came by its curious moniker. It’s a strange old story involving a giraffe, a dhow and a lengthy journey down the Nile. When the Viceroy of Egypt decided to gift a Nubian giraffe to King Charles X of France in 1826, he quickly found that dhows most certainly weren’t built for giraffes. To accommodate Zarafa – meaning ‘beloved one’ – a hole was cut into the upper deck of the dhow to allow for her slender neck to protrude. A wonderful view for Zarafa, and no doubt the strangest sight ever seen on Africa’s famous waterway.

The billowing canvas roof of Zarafa Dhow Suites may easily call to mind the stately ‘safari’ of the camp’s namesake, but an enigmatic name and a tall tale isn’t the only connection the camp shares with East and North Africa. Elaborate Zanzibari doors add a touch of spice island exoticism to the richly furnished interiors, while the ox-blood tones of Arabia and East Africa come through in the kilims that add richness and texture to the golden grain of the wooden floors. Although cut from the same luxurious cloth as the acclaimed Zarafa Camp, the Zarafa Dhow Suites offer a level of exclusivity rarely found in Africa. Home to just two spacious bedrooms and a central lounge area, Zarafa Dhow is entirely set apart from the main camp, with a separate entrance guaranteeing perfect privacy for the handful of guests lucky enough to call Zarafa Dhow home. This secluded under-canvas escape also boasts its own retinue of staff: a private chef is always on hand to craft whatever your heart desires; while a dedicated guide ensures a superlative wildlife experience whether you prefer a bush walk in the cool light of dawn,

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or an afternoon boat excursion on the expansive Zibadianja Lagoon. This is, quite simply, your perfectly private slice of wildest Africa. The two opulent bedrooms are an absolute highlight of the Dhow Suites, with an echo of vintage safaris redolent in the elegant travellers’ trunks and romantic mosquito nets that billow down around the hand-carved fourposter beds swathed in crisp white linen. There’s an unmistakable emphasis on space here too. Views rush in through floor-to-ceiling windows, while openplan bathrooms lead effortlessly off each master bedroom, separated by an enormous copper-domed indoor fireplace. Dramatic hardwood pillars frame the glorious copper shower, the water disappearing like rivulets of the Spillway through the wooden floor below. To one

side, with superlative views out across the bushveld, a polished brass slipper bath simply begs for languid evenings soaking away the dust and adventure of a day in Africa. Don’t be surprised if you find the bath drawn and a bottle of champagne on ice when you return from your afternoon game excursion. Bedroom suites spill out onto a spacious wooden deck shaded by an enormous tree, offering up spectacular views of the game-rich Zibadianja Lagoon. A plunge-pool takes the edge off searing Botswana afternoons, with sun loungers providing the perfect spot for a lazy day watching the wilderness wander by. Elephant and buffalo often parade within metres of the deck; meaning even days spent relaxing in camp offer up a front-row seat to the best game-viewing Botswana has to offer.

Dinner is laid on the spacious deck, offering unrivalled views across the Zibadianja Lagoon.

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A private chef crafts sumptuous meals, served in the central lounge and dining area or outside on the deck; a long Chesterfield sofa is a cosy spot to reconnect with family and friends as you keep your eyes peeled for wildlife on the banks of the lagoon.

Come evening, as the sun sets beyond the placid waters of the lagoon, the hurricane lanterns are lit and dinner is served beneath the stars. No effort is spared here, with white linen napery and crystal glasses ensuring an entirely decadent dining experience. While the bedroom suites and spacious deck are a highlight, it’s in the airy lounge that the ghosts of vintage safaris are most keenly felt. A giant leather Chesterfield looks out over the lagoon; a fine place to settle in with a bird book and pair of binoculars. Dramatic imagery of local wildlife offers inspiration and a reminder of what is to

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come, while a small library of African literature will tempt you to delve deeper into the history of this corner of the continent. Elegant woven rugs add a touch of homeliness to the billowing canvas roof and endless views, while a cosy traveller’s table invites guests to spend languid hours trading tales from a day of adventure. Wooden trunks that the likes of Livingstone, Selous and Hemingway might have used sit to one side, a poignant reminder that the allure of Africa has long brought travellers here to journey through Selinda’s untouched wilderness. Throughout the camp the emphasis is on elegant simplicity and reviving the romance of the golden era of African safaris. An era when time travelled as slowly as the elephants meandering through the forests of jackalberry and mangosteens a stone’s throw beyond the canvas walls. An era when the modern world was yet to intrude on our deep connection to the wilderness. For aside from the irresistible luxury of the camp, that wilderness is the prime attraction of Zarafa Dhow Suites. Selinda’s famous spillway may be one of the best wildlife destinations in

Africa, but the Zibadianja Lagoon is equally renowned for the vast herds of elephant and buffalo that gather here, particularly in the dry season when it is the most important water source for miles around. Pods of hippo defend their territory and crocodiles cruise the channels in search of unwary prey. It’s a microcosm of Selinda, offering incredible game viewing on the doorstep of Zarafa Dhow Suites. When water levels allow, your private guide will take you out on the water aboard the playfully named HES Zib. Throughout the year though, morning and afternoon game viewing can be enjoyed on a private open-air 4x4 vehicle, with your expert guide bringing the bushveld to life. For the energetic, guided walks offer an unforgettable close-up view of Selinda Reserve, and a chance to delve deeper into the remarkable ecosystem of this corner of Botswana. Zarafa Dhow itself forms part of that ecosystem, and enormous effort has been put into minimising the camp’s environmental impact. The Dhow Suites are constructed with a light ‘footprint’ on the surrounding bush, with a

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cutting-edge solar farm providing ecofriendly power throughout the day. Ultraviolet filtration of borehole water has eliminated the need for bottled water, while perhaps the most exciting innovation is the decision to run the camp’s fleet of game vehicles on a blend of eco-friendly biodiesel. Taken as a whole, it transforms Zarafa Dhow Suites into one of the ‘greenest’ safari camps in Africa, as well as perhaps the most exclusive.

And in that exclusivity lies what so many travellers come in search of: that sense of peace, and a deep connection to one of the most memorable wilderness destinations in Africa. The early explorers may well have marvelled at the untold luxuries on offer at Zarafa Dhow Suites – and they would most certainly have tipped their dusty leather hats to its remarkable location and deep respect for the wilderness it calls home. n Sebastian Bartlett

Zarafa Dhow Suites

Selinda Reserve, BOTSWANA Telephone: +27 (0)87 354 6591 Email: res.manager@ greatplainsconservation.com Website: www.greatplains conservation.com

PHOTOGRAPHS: GREAT PLAINS CONSERVATION

Zarafa Dhow Suites offers unrivalled privacy in an exclusive-use twobedroom ‘canvas villa’. The camp is only accessible by scheduled air transfers from Maun or private air charters. The road transfer from the airfield to camp is approximately an hour, including time for brief game viewing stops en route.

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Mara Plains Âˇ Kenya

A place of vast, untamed magic There are few places in Africa as awe-inspiring as Kenyaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Maasai Mara, where vast plains dotted with iconic umbrella-shaped acacia trees teem with a rich variety of wildlife. And the luxurious Mara Plains Camp has open access to it all.

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t’s still pitch dark when a group of guests departs Mara Plains Camp for a hot air balloon ride over the mighty Maasai Mara. When dawn breaks, the game on these vast plains will be stirring – and the balloon will be high in the sky, giving all aboard a bird’s-eye perspective over this magnificent wilderness, one of Africa’s greatest conservation areas. The 150 000-hectare Maasai Mara in southwest Kenya is an open reserve with only rivers as borders. There are no fences at all, so wildlife roams

freely – even across these rivers and out of the Mara if they choose. But wildlife is safe here because the Maasai people understand the importance of all wild animals in maintaining a healthy ecosystem, and it’s against their culture to hunt or eat wildlife. Mara means ‘dappled’ in the Maa language, denoting the sprinkling of bush and trees across these vast grassy plains. These are the same plains that host the breathtaking action of the wildebeest migration every July and August. In this

short period, over 1.2 million wildebeest, zebra and topi antelope cross the Grumeti and Mara rivers from the Serengeti in northern Tanzania to the plains of the Maasai Mara. Then the total wildlife population here swells to over two million animals, before instinct drives herds south again, in a clockwise direction back to the Serengeti. It’s the circle of life in action; and an endless journey following rain and grass. For nature lovers, it’s a spectacle that offers magical sightings everywhere you look.

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The tented suites at Mara Plains are spacious and comfortable, with rich campaign-style furnishings and dark wooden floors scattered with red Persian rugs.

Cosy lounge areas entice guests to sink into a soft couch and relax, while deep slipper baths offer a luxuriant soak with a view. Set on a bend in a river, the camp is reached via a long, wooden walkway through riverine forest.

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As the hot air balloon drifts gently above the Mara, numerous gatherings of animals grazing and lazing are the view from above. But the long corridor of wildebeest appears particularly unusual from the air, almost serpentine as it winds slowly across the endless grassy plains. It’s October, so these are the tailenders in the migration that recently passed through here en masse. Photographers visit the Mara in droves during the migration to capture the mayhem of river crossings as the wildebeest traverse croc-infested rivers on their eternal journey. For guests journeying to Mara Plains, however, there is a far more genteel river crossing – and it is sans crocs, of course. Mara Plains lies in the 14 000-hectare private Olare Motorogi Conservancy that borders the Maasai Mara in the north, and its entrance is truly evocative of its unrivalled setting. The camp is built on a bend of the Ntiakitiak River, and to

reach it guests walk across a bridge over the river, through a thick, riverine forest, up a small slope to some giant steps, to be greeted by an endless horizon with one, single, flat-topped acacia tree directly in their line of sight. Renowned wildlife photographer Dereck Joubert, a co-founder of Great Plains Conservation with his wife Beverly, chose this approach especially for that quintessential East African view. And this is just one detail that sets Mara Plains apart and imbues it with a very special air of adventure, discovery and pure romance. In a bid not to upstage its magnificent natural surroundings, Mara Plains – one of only five camps in the conservancy and with capacity for just 14 guests - has been sensitively designed and exudes a quiet, understated elegance. The seven spacious tented suites are set on raised decks in an effort to minimise their impact on the sensitive environment – and could be removed without leaving

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any trace. In keeping with the group’s philosophy of leading the way in lowimpact safari operations, solar energy is used throughout the camp and water is sourced from the local Loita Spring. Inside the tents, the décor celebrates the diverse cultures that have touched East Africa over the centuries. Wooden doors from the coastal island of Lamu reflect the area’s Arab heritage, while deep red and purple accents honour the Maasai warriors who have roamed these plains for millennia. The rich leathers, copper and brass used in the campaignstyle furniture – and the gleaming brass slipper baths and shower fittings – give a nod to the more recent colonial era, resulting in interiors that exude the romance of a Victorian expedition-style safari while offering all the comforts of 21st-century living. To guests in the hot air balloon above, however, all this is virtually invisible because the camp blends into its lush,

riverine setting. As they drift above, it is just a pinprick in an extended vision from horizon to horizon across one of Africa’s greatest conservation areas. This is a special place on the planet, which is why Great Plains Conservation is striving to secure landscapes such as these that are large enough to protect resident and seasonal wildlife populations. The company identifies and selects key areas that are under threat, often adjacent to national parks and reserves, then acquires the rights to convert that land to a protected area with economic benefits. It leases the Olare Motorogi Conservancy in which Mara Plains sits from the local Maasai community, and conservation fees directly support more than 1 000 families. In this way hunting or agricultural land is transformed into a wildlife conservation area supported by photographic tourism. This is vital because, without large protected landscapes where migration routes

can be maintained, wildlife will not stand a chance of long-term survival. Small pockets of conservation areas simply cannot sustain viable breeding populations of most species. As the balloon flies gently where the breeze takes it over the Mara, gameviewing vehicles can be spotted traversing the plains below. They’re out on a morning drive to greet the Mara’s animal inhabitants as they go about their morning routines. In just a few days in the Maasai Mara, on morning and evening game drives, it’s possible to see and photograph plenty of wonderful sightings, including the Big Five. Lion are plentiful and it’s not unusual to see large prides that include lionesses with cubs. Massive herds of buffalo and zebra, elephant and their calves carefully nibbling whistling thorn trees, and rhino silhouetted against the sunset are all in the mix, as is caracal, cheetah, wildebeest, topi, Thomson’s gazelle,

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A regal Maasai, dressed in a red shuka, surveys the plains where lion are prolific and wildebeest herds arrive in their thousands in July and August.

Mara Plains

Maasai Mara, KENYA Telephone : +27 (0)87 354 6591 Email: res.manager@ greatplainsconservation.com Website: www.greatplains conservation.com

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This has to be one of Africa’s most evocative wildlife experiences – to look down on creation and marvel at the vastness, richness and diversity of this magnificent place of endless space. For the Maasai Mara Reserve is the home of the original African safari, and the spiritual home of all who love wild places and their creatures. This dappled land is still untamed and free, as all of Africa used to be. n Keri Harvey

PHOTOGRAPHS: GREAT PLAINS CONSERVATION

impala, giraffe and hyena. For landscape lovers, there are iconic acacia trees and moody, brooding skies that build in the afternoons threatening rain, and promise magnificent, luminous light. The hot air balloon, however, offers a completely different perspective on game viewing. It’s a little like seeing ‘the big picture’ of the Maasai Mara. Buffalo, giraffe, elephant and lion are all easy to spot from the air – and to photograph.

Mara Plains is accessed by scheduled air transfers or charter flights from Nairobi’s domestic Wilson Airport. Flying time to the Ol Kiombo airstrip inside the Maasai Mara Reserve is about an hour, and the road transfer to Mara Plains is roughly 45 minutes, with game viewing en route.

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Emerald heights Bantry Bay, Cape Town Enjoy unsurpassed views over the Atlantic Ocean from this magnificent apartment in Bantry Bay. A contemporary fusion of glass and granite, it enjoys a 360-degree outlook over mountain and sea in one of the most sought-after residential strips on Cape Town’s Atlantic coastline. Bantry Bay has one of the best wind-protected micro climates on the Cape Peninsula, and is within easy driving distance of the city centre and the many attractions and beautiful beaches for which Cape Town is so acclaimed. Demand for property here consistently outstrips supply, giving it attractive investment potential as well. Homes here enjoy spectacular sea views, including glorious sunsets, and often have beautiful mountain views over Lion’s Head as well. This spacious apartment has open-plan living areas that flow effortlessly from one room to the next, making it a dream space for entertaining. The sleek kitchen houses top-end stainless steel appliances and incorporates a smart dining area that leads onto a comfortable sitting room and a media lounge housing state-of-the-art entertainment systems. These rooms boast For more information contact Lance Cohen +27 (0)82 416 6103, lance@seeff.com SEEFF BANTRY BAY Telephone: +27 (0)21 434 9175

beautiful hardwood floors and flow out onto the expansive patio with its sparkling blue rimflow pool and glorious sea views. Upstairs there are two en-suite bedrooms, both with floor-to-ceiling windows that make the most of the beautiful outlook. The master suite also includes a generous dressing room. There‘s

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and three parking spaces complete the offering of this maintenance-free, lock-up-and-go home.

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Moutainside splendour Tamboerskloof, Cape Town This superb contemporary home set high on the slopes of Signal Hill offers versatile family accommodation plus magnificent views over the City Bowl, stretching from Table Mountain and Devil’s Peak all the way down to the harbour. The expansive living and dining areas flow effortlessly for easy entertaining and are designed around the magnificent outlook, with the upper level giving access to a wrap-around terrace and the lower level opening out on to a patio with a rim-flow pool. There’s also a dream kitchen fitted with Gaggenau double eye-level oven and steamer, coffee machine, gas hobs and hot plate as well as a Miele dishwasher and fridges. The countertops are in wonderfully easy to maintain Caesarstone, and there is a breakfast bar for casual family dining. Upstairs, the master suite overlooks the twinkling city lights. It boasts an en-suite dressing room and a bathroom with a large steam shower that can be used as a sauna. There are an additional five bedrooms and four magnificently appointed bathrooms (two of them also ensuite), all with superb fittings and finishes. The home also includes a study and a gym. The floors are solid Brazilian hardwood and most rooms have air-conditioning. The home‘s

For more information contact

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rails, the pool pump and the five geysers. Wi-Fi is hard-wired throughout as well.

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Off the kitchen, a large laundry room has access to the drying patio and the triple garage. A storeroom with an adjacent shower room could be a domestic suite. The fourth garage has access from the entrance patio.

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This is truly a lifestyle home for the discerning buyer in what is a vibrant, cosmopolitan suburb

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that offers easy access to the city centre and to the beaches of Clifton and Camps Bay.

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For more information contact George Papadopoulos +27 (0)84 454 1834, sandhurst@seeff.com Corinna Lowry +27 (0)82 652 8891, sandhurst@seeff.com SEEFF SANDTON

Spanish flair Hyde Park, Sandton, Johannesburg

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Situated in an exclusive road in the leafy suburb of Hyde Park, this large property has been one

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family’s much-loved home for many years. It has a Spanish hacienda touch, with large proportions

Asking price: R23-million

and superb indoor-outdoor flow to huge wrap-around patio and balcony areas. A circular driveway leads up to the entrance, which features a pond and fountain on either side of the front door. Inside, the reception area has high windows that let in lots of light, plus a curved staircase leading to the upper storey. The formal lounge features a gas fireplace with a classic mantelpiece and opens onto the patio, which has its own fitted bar counter and matching cabinets of glass and wood. The spacious dining room boasts elegant wooden flooring and another classic fireplace, and opens on two sides to the patio. A cosy pub with a beamed ceiling features a Jetmaster fireplace and a bar counter with wood and glass fittings, and flows into a billiard room that gives access to the garden. There’s also a children’s playroom opening on to the patio and garden. The attractive dine-in kitchen has fitted white wooden cupboards offset by sapphire blue Caesarstone surfaces with a slight sparkle and boasts Smeg appliances. Upstairs there is a pyjama lounge/cinema room and five bedrooms with en-suite bathrooms. In the main suite, both the bedroom and spacious bathroom flow out to the balcony, plus there’s a dual-sided gas fireplace and a dressing room with fitted cupboards. The home is situated in a manicured, mature garden of 5 547 square metres. The grounds include a tennis court and gazebo, a large swimming pool with a slide and pool house, and a children’s playground with jungle gym. Four garages with wrought-iron gates, staff quarters and a borehole with water tanks complete this high-end family offering.

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Executive appeal Hurlingham, Sandton, Johannesburg This sophisticated family home is situated in a sought-after cul-de-sac in a quiet, low-density

For more information contact

suburb close to the Sandton CBD, top schools, entertainment, shopping and medical facilities. It

Doug McMeeking +27 (0)82 549 1248,

offers a tranquil, secure lifestyle and benefits from the ‘Sandhurst Enclosure’ area security.

sandhurst@seeff.com

Built just eight years ago, it boasts top-quality finishes and every modern luxury. An impressive paved driveway leads to the imposing entrance portico, where the front door opens onto a double-volume tiled entrance hall and an ante room from which the reception rooms flow.

Gareth Robertson +27 (0)79 318 6733, sandhurst@seeff.com SEEFF SANDTON Telephone: +27 (0)11 784 1222

The tiled formal lounge, which can be closed off with recessed sliding doors for cosy entertaining,

Website: www.seeff.com Web ref: 347179

features a gas fireplace with a Caesarstone surround as well as a fitted Caesarstone bar that leads

Asking price: R16-million

through to a walk-in wine cellar. The formal dining room has large picture windows framing the garden as well as a granite-topped fitted sideboard. There’s also an open-plan family lounge off the kitchen. All the reception rooms lead out to extensive covered and open patios where there is plenty of space for lounging, dining and barbecuing. The gourmet kitchen boasts sleek white units, Caesarstone surfaces, stainless-steel appliances and a central wooden-topped island. A separate scullery and laundry, a study or guest bedroom and a guest cloakroom with a shower complete the downstairs offering. Upstairs there’s a pyjama lounge and five en-suite bedrooms, all with fitted cupboards and doors opening onto the balcony. The main suite includes a gas fireplace and a walk-in dressing room. The executive home sits in a landscaped half-acre garden with a swimming pool and has three garage and six additional parking bays.

Landscaped gardens surround this large family home, which is built for gracious modern living with spacious reception rooms and a gourmet kitchen.

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Featuring wrap-around windows that maximise its far-reaching coastal views, this contemporary home has sophisticated open-plan living areas and a gourmet kitchen.

Contemporary seduction Zimbali Coastal Resort, Ballito, KwaZulu-Natal One of the finest examples of contemporary living within the Zimbali Coastal Resort, this home boasts an award-winning kitchen and an incredible open-plan living area. An impressive sense of arrival is achieved with a double-volume glass facade and a floating wooden staircase. Natural sunlight floods through the extensive living areas, which open up on both sides – allowing gentle ocean breezes to cool the interiors and the soothing sound of running water from the innovative water feature to permeate through the space. The over-sized pool and sun-deck provide a picturesque foreground to the bold architectural lines of the home. The heated Jacuzzi and surrounding entertainment space create an alternate intimate outdoor area that can be used in all weather conditions. The first floor includes a master suite that offers panoramic views across multiple fairways, conservation areas and the Indian Ocean beyond. The second and third bedrooms are also For more information contact

located on the first floor, while a fourth bedroom on the ground floor enjoys a sunny north-

Andreas Wassenaar +27 (0)82 837 9094,

facing aspect and makes an ideal guest suite.

andreasw@seeff.com

Zimbali Coastal Resort borders the popular holiday town of Ballito on KwaZulu-Natal’s

Ian Naidu +27 (0)76 941 1838, ian.naidu@seeff.com SEEFF DOLPHIN COAST

sunny Dolphin Coast. Set within 425 hectares of coastal forest, it provides nature trails and a splendour of birdlife, but is within close proximity of Durban and King Shaka International

Telephone: +27 (0)32 586 0170

Airport. This family home enjoys full access to all the resort’s impressive amenities, including

Website: www.seeff.com Web ref: 338994

its championship golf course, tennis courts, squash courts and state-of-the-art gym, not to

Asking price: R13.95-million

mention its 3.5 kilometres of pristine beachfront.

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The grand charity event happens for the 3 rd time.

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A black-tie dinner event featuring 14 award winning chefs from South Africa plus 7 top sommeliers working together. The chefs team up in duos to create individual menus for groups of only 36 people each â&#x20AC;&#x201C; only 252 guests in total will experience this unique evening. The proceeds of the ticket sales and the art auction go a 100% to two established charities who support underprivilliged children in South Africa: MAD Leadership Foundation and the Laureus Sport for Good Foundation. Venue: City Hall Cape Town / South Africa Tickets: R3 000 per person (tables of 12); accomodation packages available; enquiries at tickets@chefswhoshare.com More information on www.chefswhoshare.com

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14 top chefs work with 7 acclaimed sommeliers to create culinar y wonders for one night only, where renowned artists donate their work to raise funds for youth development. A special evening created by

Opulent Living

XPERIENCES

2015/05/11 2:08 PM

Sweet sounds of romance The Castle of Good Hope reverberated with songs of love as the Cape Town Philharmonic Orchestra and acclaimed soloists performed at the magical ‘Valentine under the STARS’ open-air concert in February.

ith Table Mountain as a dramatic backdrop, the courtyard in Cape Town’s historical Castle of Good Hope came alive to music and dancing, and love and romance, for a special Valentine’s Day celebration, conceived and organised by Opulent Living Experiences. Building on the successful open-air concert held in the same venue in 2014, this year’s magical occasion was presented in partnership with Lexus. All guests were treated to a complimentary glass of bubbly when they arrived at the venue, while those in the VIP circle enjoyed a selection of fine drinks and canapés as they mingled with the stars of the show before the performance. The concert featured the acclaimed Cape Town Philharmonic Orchestra led by conductor Brandon Phillips, who set the tone for the evening by opening with Bizet’s compelling Suite No.2 from the opera Carmen. Other romantic classics followed, including a beautiful rendition of ‘What a wonderful world’ with the talented Matthew Ehrenreich on saxophone. Expresso host Katlego Maboe acted as MC for the evening and charmed the audience with his amazing singing voice, getting everyone up on their feet and dancing in the aisles when he sang ‘Save the last dance for me’. Star of last year’s show, Cape Town’s very own classical pop singer Selim Kagee, was back this year, and once again held audiences mesmerised with his powerful performance, especially during his stirring rendition of the Neapolitan ballad ‘Surrender’. South African soprano Magdalene Minnaar also enthralled with her versatile voice and enigmatic stage presence, performing the beautiful ‘Quando m’en

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vo’ from La bohème and the soulful ‘My heart will go on’ to rapturous applause. Another delight was the Camps Bay High Sing the Change Choir, part of a youth empowerment initiative that uses song writing to ignite positive change, who sang an original number. The big surprise for the evening, though, was the guest appearance of pop star Vicky Sampson, who wowed the audience with her chart-topping hit ‘Afrikan Dream’. By the end of the show, the audience was clapping, singing and dancing along with the performers as they marked a very special Valentine’s evening.

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Opulent Living Opulent Living events 02 03

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[01] Soprano Magdalene Minnaar. [02] Deputy Minister of Tourism, the Honourable Ms Tokozile Xasa. [03] Presenting partner Lexus had its luxury vehicles on display. [04] Manuela Siegel and Philipp Baron von Bodenhausen. [05] Tebogo and Didi Mogashoa. [06] Camps Bay High Sing the Change Choir. [07] Kerry Roodt and Florian Gast. [08] Barbara Lenhard and Louis Heyneman. [09] MC Katlego Maboe and conductor Brandon Phillips. [10] An impressive stage awaits its star performers. [11] Classical pop singer Selim Kagee. [12] Calvyn and Manda Hamman with Gareth Bloor.

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[13] Vicky Sampson sang her hit ‘Afrikan Dream’. [14] Hellen Hassolanidis and Angelo Carambassis. [15] Prince Malik, Patricia and Martin Hartmann. [16] Lindt hosted a pop-up chocolate bar with its Maître Chocolatier. [17] Jenny Havenga and Patrick Morlett. [18] Kai and Renate Diestel, Barbara and Horst Frehse. [19] Grand lighting and the sounds of the Cape Town Philharmonic Orchestra transformed the Castle of Good Hope into a site of Valentine’s Day romance.

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2015/05/11 3:39 PM

Glamorous Africa The inaugural Zeitz MOCAA Gala drew the who’s who of Cape Town’s art, fashion and business set to the V&A Waterfront in February 2015 to celebrate this significant new gallery planned for the city.

t was a glamorous African affair that saw 320 guests make their red-carpet arrival at the V&A Waterfront’s Silo District. Held in Silo 1, opposite the site of Zeitz MOCAA, Africa’s first contemporary art museum, due to open in 2017, the gala honoured the major donors to this significant new cultural institution. Proceeds from the fundraiser, which will

become an annual event, will help to ensure the museum is accessible to all. Guests were treated to a formal dinner and vibrant entertainment as well as an exclusive couture exhibition presented by the first four designers to be honoured by the newly announced Zeitz MOCAA Costume Institute: Chris Levin, Marianne Fassler, Gavin Rajah and Thula Sindi.

[01] Designer dresses set the tone for the announcement of the Costume Institute. [02] Greg Olsen, Denise Dogon, Calli Dogon, Jenny Ferrini and Mike Ormrod. [03] Sunu and Rene Gonera with Phil Biden. [04] The gala dinner was held in the V&A’s Silo District. [05] Anton and Lionel Smit. [06] Florian Gast, Jochen Zeitz and Mark Coetzee. [07] Yumei and Dabing Chen. [08] Alberto Rodriguez, Brett Murray, Sanell Aggenbach and Robert Sherwood. [09] Tony Stern and Nicole Sherwin. [10] Christian Sulger-Buel and Tamzin Lovell Miller. [11] Jochi and Wilfried Sauerland. [12] Tanja Mackay-Davidson. [13] Gasant and Aneeka Orrie. [14] Victoria Nel.

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Awarding star performance Remarkable achievements in the world of sports were honoured at the Laureus World Sports Awards in April, drawing sporting legends past

PHOTOGRAPHS: IAN WALTON, JAMIE MCDONALD AND KEVIN LEE / GETTY IMAGES

and present to a glittering ceremony in Shanghai.

elebrating the year’s greatest sporting achievements and promoting the work of the Sport for Good Foundation, the Laureus World Sports Awards are the premier honours on the international sporting calendar. Laureus invited Opulent Living owners Barbara Lenhard and Florian Gast to attend the 2015 Awards, held in Shanghai. The globally televised event was hosted by British actor Benedict Cumberbatch and Chinese TV star Chen Chen and included presenters such as Hollywood star Bill Murray.

Tennis player Novak Djokovic, the German World Cup Football Team and Ethiopia’s young athlete Genzebe Dibaba were the big winners of the night, while Springbok rugby player Schalk Burger won Comeback of the Year Award after recovering from life-threatening meningitis. All winners are chosen by the Laureus World Sports Academy, which is made up of 50 of the greatest living sportsmen and sportswomen. Proceeds from the event directly benefit and underpin the work of the Laureus Sport for Good Foundation.

10 07 [01] Tennis player Li Na of China accepts the Laureus Academy Exceptional Achievement Award. [02] Shanghai, China’s largest city, played host to this year’s ceremony. [03] Hosts Chen Chen and Benedict Cumberbatch. [04] Chinese basketball star Yao Ming and actor Bill Murray. [05] Springbok rugby player Schalk Burger accepts his award from Morné du Plessis. [06] Laureus World Sports Academy Chairman Edwin Moses. [07] Skydiver Alan Eustace was named Action Sportsperson of the Year 2015. [08] German champion boxer and Laureus Ambassador Axel Schulz with Barbara Lenhard. [09] Germany’s World Cup Football Team is announced as Team of the Year. [10] Chinese dancers entertain the audience.

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2015/05/11 6:23 PM

A beautiful morning Opulent Living publisher Barbara Lenhard hosted a pampering ladies morning with luxury skincare brand La Prairie in Cape Town in January, treating an intimate group to canapés, bubbly and beauty care.

t was a perfect Cape summer’s morning when an exclusive group of guests gathered at a stylish Cape Town home for a morning of beautiful treats. Conceptualised and executed by Opulent Living Experiences, the intimate gathering saw women enjoy bubbly, canapés and the magic of top anti-ageing beauty products

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from La Prairie. After a short introduction to the brand by La Prairie national training manager, Ana Roque, each woman was treated to a personal consultation with the skilled La Prairie team to find out exactly what works best for her skin. All guests were then given a specialised sample pack suited to their needs to take home.

09 [01] Erika Hundersmark, Tanja Mackay-Davidson and Sabine Thomas. [02] Maria Lambros, Barbara Lenhard, Luisa Malan and Heloise Janse van Rensburg. [03] Pink bubbles added to the event’s sparkle. [04] La Prairie’s Ana Roque. [05] The delicious canapés. [06] Guests were treated to personalised gift bags. [07] Nadiia Cohen, Anne Marie Baalbergen, Aletha Carswell, Carla Antoni and Amba Loudon. [08] A beautiful Cape Town home provided the glamorous venue. [09] Mari Kushner, Natalie Brownlie-Protoulis, Barbara Lenhard and Jo-Ann Strauss.

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THE COFFEE-TABLE MAGAZINE FOR THE FINER THINGS IN LIFE | EDITION 12 | NOMINAL CHARGE R180