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Florence News FEBRUARY 2017, N 10

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Accademia Gallery Presents Giovanni Dal Ponte Exhibit runs until March 12

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he Accademia Gallery is hosting the first monographic event ever dedicated to the painter Giovanni dal Ponte (1385–1437/8). Curated by Angelo Tartuferi and Lorenzo Sbaraglio, the exhibit showcases around 50 artworks. Dal Ponte’s style betrayed an acute awareness of the work being done by the most important artists active in Florence in the first three decades of the 15th century – artists such as Gherardo Starnina, Lorenzo Monaco and Lorenzo Ghiberti, or Masaccio, Masolino da Panicale and Fra Angelico.

The most important work to have survived from his earliest period is a triptych originally painted for the church of Sant’Andrea in Brozzi, currently in the Museo di San Donnino in Campi Bisenzio. For a long time the painting was attributed to a hypothetical “Master of the Brozzi Annunciation.” However, it is now considered to be an example of Giovanni dal Ponte’s early work, dated circa 1410, containing clear references to the work of Gherardo Starnina. The Accademia Gallery’s large triptych entitled The Coronation of the Virgin with Four Saints has been restored for this exhibition – as have other paintings on display

– pointing to the quality of Dal Ponte’s draughtsmanship and the intensity of his palette. The carpet on which the sacred figures stand has shed its former darkness to once again reveal its brilliant green decorated with rich gilded tendrils. The cleaning of the bottom step, which had been concealed by dirt and repainting through the centuries, was another huge surprise, showing the care that the artist had lavished on this detail too: showing, in fact, how he deliberately used the step to demonstrate his skill in handling painterly naturalism. The exhibition also marks the museum’s acquisition of another work

Florence News

NEWS by Giovanni dal Ponte, a tender and luminous Madonna and Child Enthroned from the church of the Badia Fiorentina in the heart of the city, but stored for many years at the Certosa del Galluzzo – it, too, has been restored for the occasion. In this picture the artist offers us a highly original take on the manner of Masolino da Panicale, Masaccio’s partner in art. Dal Ponte’s final phase is documented in the show by a series of dated works testifying to the development of his personal style characterised by ample, solemn forms that appear to conjugate the great tradition of 14th century Florentine painting. It is worth pointing here to his luminous “neo-14th century” triptych for the abbey church at Rosano depicting the Annunciation with Four Saints, an altarpiece commissioned by Abbess Caterina da Castiglionchio in 1434; or to the grandiose altarpiece from the church of San Salvatore al Monte in Florence (after 1434) portraying the Madonna and Child with Six Saints and a Donor. Giovanni dal Ponte also painted frescoes, the fragments of which were recovered in the Chapel of the Judgement in Pistoia cathedral partly reflecting his style. He is known for certain to have frescoed the Chapel of St. Peter in the church of Santa Trinita in Florence around 1430, a cycle now lost for the most part, and also known to have frescoed the Scali Chapel in the same church with Stories of St. Bartholomew between September 1434 and October 1435.

His last will and testament, drafted on November 19, 1437, reveals that he had begun to enjoy considerable prosperity, although he was to die shortly thereafter. The layout of the exhibition, designed by the architect Piero Guicciardini with the Guicciardini-Magni practice, evokes the architecture of Florence in the age of Giovanni dal Ponte, by emphasizing the lighting of the gold-ground paintings to create a magical atmospheric. Dal Ponte’s exquisite Coronation of the Virgin with Four Saints has been especially restored for the occasion. Cecilie Hollberg, the Accademia Gallery’s director, was eager to graft significant innovations onto this tradition in terms of the conception of the layout, with its huge scenographic impact underscoring and emphasising this Florentine painter’s artistic career, while at the same time innovating the catalogue with a new editorial line designed to offer an interdisciplinary approach involving art history, organology and restoration.

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Galleria dell’Accademia, Nov. 22 - Mar. 12 (2017) The first retrospective exhibition dedicated to Florentine artist Giovanni Dal Ponte (1385 - 1437) displays paintings from every phase of his career and the paintings that influenced his environment, such as those by Lorenzo Ghiberti, Lorenzo Monaco and Gherardo Stamina, Masolino and Beato Angelico and Paolo Uccello, Masaccio.

www.florencenews.it merses spectators in the world of the artist and the man, boasting vividly restored photos, 3D reconstructions of 20th century Vienna, educational touch-screen tables, and a virtual reality experience, the Oculus Samsung Gear VR.

Main Exhibits ♦ Giovanni Dal Ponte

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This exhibit is centered on two terracotta statues from the collection of Peter Silverman and Kathleen Onorato: The Beheading of John the Baptist, a relief by Verrocchio, and a bust of Saint Lawrence, which was identified as an original work by Donatello.

♦ Real Time and Time of Reality. The Clocks at Palazzo Pitti from the XVIII to the XX Century Curated by Simonella Condemi and Enrico Colle Palazzo Pitti, Gallery of Modern Art, Sept. 13 - Mar. 5 (2017)

♦ The Klimt Experience Chiesa di S. Stefano al Ponte Nov. 26 - Apr. 2 (2017)

Museums Open to Kids From February to April Florence State museums offer special days for children from ages 7 to 14 and their families to discover the art and history of the city. Below is the program for the visits.

February

Sat. 4, 10:30 a.m., National Archeological Museum Sun. 12, 10:30 a.m., Modern Art Gallery Sun. 19, 10:30 a.m. Uffizi, Statue and paintings Gallery Sun. 19, 10:30 a.m., National Museum of the Bargello

March

Sat. 4, 10:30 a.m., Orsanmichele Sun. 12, 10:30 a.m., Pitti Palace Sun. 12, 3 p.m., Modern Art Gallery Sun. 19, 10:30 a.m., National Museum of the Bargello

April

♦ Donatello and Verrocchio: Rediscovered Masterpieces Museo dell’Opera del Duomo Oct. 21- Feb. 26 (2017)

This interactive exhibit, a multimedia production by Crossmedia Group dedicated to the founding father of the Viennese Secession, Gustav Klimt (1862 - 1918), im-

The exhibit presents 80 of the over 200 clocks stored at Palazzo Pitti made in the period from the 18th to the 19th century, chosen for their artistic and scientific value.

Sat. 1, 10:30 a.m., National Archeological Museum Sat. 8, 10:30 a.m., Uffizi, Statue and paintings gallery Sat. 19, 10:30 a.m., Orsanmichele Sun. 30, 10:30 a.m., Modern Art Gallery For more information write to: uffizigiovani@beniculturali.it

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Real Time and the Time of Reality

A Museum for Leonardo

family of Florentine craftsmen has discovered previously unknown theorems hidden in Leonardo’s mechanical designs, shedding light on the full scope of his genius. Carlo Niccolai and his son Gabriele have spent decades constructing and working with the models of Leonardo’s inventions through close study of his famous codices. In collaboration with a team of specialists, the Niccolai family re-creates the designs using materials such as wood, rope, fabric and metal that date back to the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries. In his studies for a European Commission-sponsored exhibition of the machines in Brussels earlier this year, Gabriele Niccolai noted how Leonardo appears to have deliberately scattered the mechanical components required to create his inventions over several different pages of his codices, allowing artisans to create individual elements but preventing their understanding of the machine as a whole. This may be due in part to the fact that Leonardo’s codices have been split up and reassembled over the years. Sculptor Pompeo Leoni took the liberty of cutting and dividing several of the codices into scientific and artistic categories in the seventeenth century; however, such a practice would have also safeguarded his inventions during times of war. Leonardo’s catapult

Exhibit showcases working models of da Vinci’s designs

design in the Atlantic Codex is rendered useless without details of its ballistic adjustments, which are found in a different part of the codex as a series of self-locking mechanisms. A deeper understanding of Leonardo’s codices has revealed that many of his technological innovations rested upon those of his engineering predecessors, such as Brunelleschi, Vitruvius, Heron of Alexandria and Archimedes of Syracuse, which Leonardo adapted to his own context. His modification of a mechanism based on a description found in Herodotus and believed to have been used for building the pyramids surpassed all expectations when Niccolai

created its working model in 2011: a 300kg concrete block was so reduced in weight that a six-year-old child was able to lift it.

Designs on display include the aerial screw, human robot, hydraulic drill, scubadiving apparatus, hang glider, tank, missiles, bicycle, floodlight, lifebuoy and jack.

The models have been displayed at more than 100 international exhibitions throughout Europe and as far afield as Australia, New Zealand, China, the US, Brazil, Saudi Arabia and Finland. More than 50 working models are on permanent display at The Machines of Leonardo da Vinci exhibit at Galleria Michelangiolo in Via Cavour. Here visitors have the chance to not only observe but also interact with various prototypes, such as the aerial screw used in today’s helicopters, alongside a scuba-diving apparatus, glider, bicycle, tank and missiles; and view reconstructions of Leonardo’s studies of anatomy. The exhibit also displays copies of six codices, in which the visitor

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can view the sketches that reveal the workings of the great man’s mind. The Niccolai family has been widely praised for its ongoing devotion to realising the vast inheritance that Leonardo left to science. Professor Carlo Pedretti, director of the Armand Hammer Center for Leonardo Studies at the University of California, says, “Carlo Niccolai is an admirable figure, a talented craftsman who has developed his own way in studying the technological level reached by Leonardo da Vinci. Moreover, he is a person gifted with great simplicity and humility. His work is important to scholars because it helps our theories and contributes to study indepth Leonardo’s machines and all the technological discoveries made at that time.”

The Machines of Leonardo da Vinci Leonardo da Vinci Museum Via Cavour, 21 Open daily: 9:30 a.m – 7:30 p.m. Cost: €7 (full price); €5 (reduced); €3 (groups of 15 or more). Entrance, snack and drink promotion: €8 (between 11 a.m. & 4 p.m.). 055 295 264 www.macchinedileonardo.com

Antique clocks on display

he Gallery of Modern Art at the the dynasties of the Medici, the Pitti Palace is presenting the Lorraine and the Savoy, by displayexhibition Real Time and the Time ing a selection of approximately 60 of Reality until March 5. out of a total of 200 timepieces in The exhibit, which aims to appre- the palace’s collection. ciate the clocks’ quality from a sci- Studied primarily as part of the entific and an art historical point of huge legacy of furnishings and view, allows visitors to explore the works of art in the palace, clocks shapes taken by time throughout – (almost) silent witnesses to the unfolding of events – played an important role in regulating the pace of life at court while at the same time being symbols of their owners’ prestige. The clockmaker’s art held a special fascination for the palace’s noble residents, who availed themselves of the best masters working in Italy and abroad, inviting them to court to create masterpieces of their art. This relationship is conjured up in the exhibition by a mantel clock created by Ignatius Huggeford, an Englishman, for Cosimo III in the early years of the 18th century. The timepieces record the styles of different eras and the changing tastes of the figures who occupied the Mantel clock throne of Grand Duchy of Tuscacase: French workshop ny. From the sober elegance of the mechanism: Pierre Du Chesne (c. 1650–1730) religieuse decorated with the arms c. 1675–90 of the Medici, its face supported by a winged and bearded Allegoebony wood veneered and inlaid with ry of Time, to the clock depicting tortoiseshell and gilded brass, chased the majestic figure of Aurora (the and gilded copper, silk velvet; dawn), each piece shows us how 66 × 40 × 21 cm. Florence, Gallerie degli Uffizi, Galleria Paimportant it was to symbolise time latina e Appartamenti Reali, Toilette del Re in material form. The clock-face became the focal point of a compo-

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Mantel clock case: French workshop

mechanism: France, c. 1810,

chased and gilded bronze; 58 × 67 × 21 cm., case 82 × 74 × 31 cm. Florence, Gallerie degli Uffizi, Galleria Palatina e Appartamenti Reali, Sala di Ercole

sition which embraced the ceaseless rotary movement of the hands; the primary sources of inspiration for the artisans who created these timepieces were the gods and goddesses of classical mythology and the personification as allegories of abstract notions linked to the passage of time, but also animals with a metaphorical significance, as in the case of the clock resting on an elephant symbolising patience and longevity.

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NEWS “Appreciated, also in Florence, not only as luxurious and exorbitantly expensive objets d’art, but also as wonderfully intricate automatisms, the clocks in the Medici and Lorraine collections project the image of a court in which mechanical and technical skill was no less valued or admired than the creative talent of the goldsmiths who set the movements in complex decorations, often adorned with allegories of Time. Indeed a clockmaker tasked with the maintenance of the precious objects’ delicate movements was a salaried member of the court’s permanent staff,” said Eike Schmidt, Director of the Gallerie degli Uffizi. Before the mechanical clock was perfected, scientists used tools that depended for their functioning on the observation of the stars and planets, the primary focal point associated with the natural passage of time and the alternation of the sun and moon. Thus Real Time and the Time of Reality also hosts a broad range of scientific instruments – for instance, a reproduction of Galileo’s Jovilabe and a selection of sundials used to measure time before the birth of the clock – from other Florentine museums such as the Museo Galileo and the Museo Stibbert. Bridging the gap between 19th and 20th centuries is a collection of contemporary jewellery inspired by the theme of time, such as Fausto Maria Franchi’s ring Ore perdute or Virginia Tentindò’s necklace L’eterno ritorno, Surrealist in insipiration – all of them objects with an important conceptual sig-

nificance that illustrate novel ways of depicting time. This small digression introduces visitors to the final section of the exhibition, devoted to the 20th century and hosted in the Saloncino delle Statue, a part of the Galleria d’arte Moderna, where visitors can explore some of the new ways of perceiving time in the 20th century.

Mantel clock case: French workshop

mechanism: Jean François Béeckaert (c. 1720–83)

18th century

gilded bronze, brass, steel; 46.5 × 31 × 21 cm. Florence, Gallerie degli Uffizi, Museo della Moda e del Costume

Real Time and the Time of Reality Gallery of Modern Art, Palazzo Pitti Until March 5

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FOOD&WINE

A Guide to Tuscan Cold Cuts and Cheeses

C.D. MELO

ow that the autumn nip is in the air, people are exchanging summer salads for heartier fare. Tuscany is a mecca for excellent cold cuts and delicious cheeses. The variety offered is also just as impressive. A plate of freshly sliced meats and fine cheeses, along with some crusty bread and good wine, can easily be considered a meal in itself. The following is a list of meats and cheeses that I highly recommend you try when you are visiting Tuscany. MEATS: (keep in mind that they each have a distinct flavor due to unique spices) Prosciutto Crudo: cured / smoked ham that comes from the pig. Delicious with either figs, cheeses, or in a panino. Prosciutto Cotto: baked ham that

comes from the pig. Delicious with mushrooms on pizza or in a panino with artichoke spread. Finocchiona: salami with fennel seed made from pig. Perfect with cheeses or crusty breads. I usually recommend a white wine with good acidity when eating finocchiona since the fat and fennel seeds will coat the taste buds. The acidity in the wine will “scrub” them clean and keep your palate fresh. Salami Tartufati: salami with black truffle made from pig. Delicious alone or with crusty bread. Salami di Cinghiale: salami made from Tuscan wild boar. Delicious alone or with crusty bread. Salami Toscano: salami with black pepper made from pig. Delicious with cheese, bread, or hard fruits (apple, pear). Soppressata: salami made from the snout, ears, and head of the pig. Delicious in a panino.

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Guancia: salami made from the cheeks of the pig. Perfect with cheeses or with crusty bread. Sbricciolona: artisan salami that crumbles (contains fennel seed). Delicious on crusty bread.

Eat and Dance: Greek Style

CHEESES: (the same cheese can taste very different depending on the age) Pecorino Fresco: sheep’s milk cheese that is not very aged (4-6 months). Delicious with fresh fruits or fruit mostarda (fruit sauces infused with mustard, horseradish, or peperoncino). Pecorino Staggionato: sheep’s milk cheese that has been aged for 12 months or more). Delicious with grapes (red globe), mostarda, or drizzled with truffle honey. Stracchino: soft, mild, spreadable cheese. Delicious in a panino with prosciutto crudo or sun-dried tomatoes. Caprino: fresh goat cheese. Delicious with grilled chicken, in salads, or with roasted vegetables (like sweet bell peppers and zucchini). Why not fill a basket with these Tuscan treats and watch the breathtaking sunset from Piazzale Michelangelo while having an evening picnic? Do not forget to wash it down with some good wine!

C. De Melo Author of SABINA and other unique fiction novels www.cdemelo.com

Ristorante Dioniso Waiters dancing, often with customers, is what happens if you decide to try the restaurant Dioniso. The restaurant offers typical Greek dances and dishes, and on Friday and Saturday night also live Greek music. This formula joins food with music for a full immersion in Greek culture. The restaurant opened in 2000 and is located on Via San Gallo 16/r, between the train station and San Marco square.

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The ‘Italian’ Dishes that Don’t Actually Exist in Italy

HEATHER DONNER

any tourists who travel around Italy, and more generally many foreigners, have misconceptions about authentic Italian food. They are often surprised to find that common American “Italian” dishes such as penne alfredo, garlic bread, spaghetti with meatballs and pepperoni pizza are nowhere to be found on a restaurant menù in Italy. Those tourists, or foreigners, quickly discover that

America’s favorite Italian foods are not actually authentic Italian. These misconceptions on authentic Italian food are often the result of Italian emigration. Over one hundred years ago, Italians came to America and became

poverty-stricken farmers. They practiced a style of cooking called “cucina povera”, which translates to “poor kitchen”. Italian immigrants were forced to cook with only readily available ingredients and leftovers. They could not afford many of the ingredients used in authentic Italian meals, and this led to changes in the original recipes. In this way, the new Italian-Americans altered, and forever americanized, some of the most famous Italian dishes. An article recently published in

The Local, the largest English-language news network in Europe, shows how and why some of the very popular American-Italian dishes were created. And so we discover that penne alfredo originated in America in the

1920’s and does not exist in Italy. It was created when an Italian, easy to guess by the name of Alfredo, served a pasta dish with butter and sage. Due to the lack of ingredients, he eventually created ‘penne alfredo’, a dish which uses cream and parsley instead of butter and sage. Similarly, America’s go-to Italian dish of spaghetti with meatballs is not authentic Italian at all. This dish was likely created by Italian immigrants unable to find quality tomatoes and thus forced to add meat to their sauce to make it thicker as meat was more readily available. Italians do eat, and do love meatballs, but never in their pasta. Meatballs, here in Italy, are traditionally served as a

main course or starter dish, and are accompanied by vegetables, beans or potatoes. Another popular American-Italian dish, and in many cases just ‘American’, is piz-

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FOOD&WINE

Tastes Delicious

Get Your Meal Delivered at Home

Chocolate Fair Returns Feb. 10-19

za. In America, strange pizza toppings such as ham and pineapples are frequent. That’s fine. But it is a common misconception by Americans that this kind of pizza, or pizzas, are authentic Italian: Such toppings would probably stimulate the irony of an Italian pizza maker. Then we should also consider that Italian regions differ in culinary specialties. Americans often assume that a popular Italian dish in their country is also popular amongst all of Italy. In reality, a popular American-Italian dish could stem from a small Italian village and may not be popular, at all, in the rest of Italy. As you travel across Italy, do not be shocked if you do not find your favorite ‘Italian’ dish on the menù. It may be that that dish is typical of another region or another place, or more likely that, in Italy, one of your favorite ‘Italian’ dishes simply does not exist.

G THOMAS RICCIOTTI

en long, sweet days of chocolate of all kinds. It is precisely this the (only) ingredient of the Chocolate Fair taking place in Santa Maria Novella from Friday Feb.10 to Sunday Feb.19. This year edition presents an important novelty, as the organizers are, for the first time in the history of the fair, all women. Caterina, Veronica, Beatrice and Ilaria have,

in fact, prepared an event in which the most renowned 'artisans of chocolate' from all over the Italy will showcase their products in a variety of forms to 'taste' the feedback of consumers. Conveniently organized in coincidence of St Valentine’s Day, the festival offers patrons a different aspect to just seeing and tasting the products on display by allowing them to participate in various activities. Workshops and games for kids will be as usual an import-

ant part of the event, while industry professionals will host cooking classes to teach how to create desserts and discover the secrets to the art of chocolate-making. In the spirit of the event, local restaurants have collaborated with festival organizers to prepare entire meals based on chocolate for the public to enjoy over the period of the festival, with the intention of discovering the many and unusual uses of the cocoa bean and its products.

et your meal at home from your favorite restaurant is now possible as international home delivery service Deliveroo recently opened a new branch in Florence. An award-winning delivery service company founded in 2013 by William Shu and Greg Orlowski, Deliveroo works with over 16.000 best-loved restaurants and over 20.000 riders to provide food delivery in the world. The company is headquartered in London and has more than 800 employees in offices around the world operating in over 100 cities across 12 countries including Australia, Belgium, France, Germany,

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The Aperitivo Explained W

hat is the aperitivo in Italy? It is a way people stay connected, and can be a dinner option for those who just want a light evening meal or who are on a strict budget. This fun and tasty trend began in Milano in the 80’s when some bars had the idea to serve snacks with their drinks during Happy Hour. Naturally, people would opt to enjoy their cocktails at establishments that provided free nibbles. Other bars began to follow suit,

These iconic cocktails feature distinctive ingredients like Aperol, Campari and Vermouth which stimulate the appetite. some even offering dishes like hot pasta, thus giving people the opportunity to eat their primo and then go out for dinner afterward. The Milanese trend trickled south to many cities including Florence. Just about every lounge bar, coffee bar, and enoteca in the city serves some form of aperitivo buffet with their drinks. Good music is also crucial, since it sets the mood for relaxation and animated conversation.

Beyond the world of wine lies a wide assortment of cocktails to discover in Italy, including the Ne groni, the Spritz, and the Americano. Intended to whet the palate, these three cocktails usually contain Campari, but are also offered with some minor variations. These iconic Italian cocktails feature distinctive ingredients like Aperol, Campari and Vermouth and contain flavors that stimulate the appetite— thus, perfect for the Italian aperitivo. The social activity known as aperitivo takes place in a lively atmosphere, at a bar or party, accompanied by light-tasting cocktails and pre-dinner snacks. It happens almost every night of the week, and in some locales, the finger foods are enough for a full meal, at the price of an €9 or €12 cocktail, from 6pm to 10pm. The Americano is made with half Campari, half sweet Vermouth, and soda water, and is garnished with lemon. It was originally served in Gaspare Campari’s café in Milan and called the Milano-Torino cocktail in reference to the Campari from Milan and Vermouth from Turin. However, as the drink grew in popularity among American tourists, it became known as the Americano. In 1919, when Count Camillo Negroni was at Florence’s Caffè Casoni (now Caffè Giacosa), he ordered his Americano a little bit stronger. The bartender decided to add gin instead of soda water,

Credits: Flickr User Matteo Paciotti

and an orange instead of a lemon, to distinguish this new and different drink. The cocktail was so well received that the Negroni family founded a Negroni Distillery in Treviso, Italy. Currently there are three different variations of the Negroni cocktail. The first is called the Negroni sbagliato, the “wrong” Negroni, wherein Spumante Brut (dry spar-

kling white wine) is substituted for gin. The Negroski is a version made with vodka instead of gin. Lastly, the Sparkling Negroni contains the original gin, Campari and Vermouth, plus Champagne or Prosecco, sometimes garnished with an orange twist. Another typical choice for aperitivo is the Spritz cocktail, which is made with one ounce of Aperol,

two ounces Prosecco, and Seltzer. For those who prefer a more bitter flavor, Campari can be used instead of the sweeter, lighter Aperol. Venturing away from standard American cocktails makes for a delicious change of pace, while experiencing the Italian aperitivo tradition takes you a step closer to adopting the quintessential Italian lifestyle. Enjoy your aperitivo.

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FOOD&WINE

Taste Wine with Pino In a renovated 700-year-old well

‘P

ozzo Divino’ is a witty play on words: literally meaning ‘divine well’, it also translates as ‘wine well’ when read as ‘Pozzo di Vino’. The ancient well is now the cellar that hosts Pozzo Divino’s wine tours. Dating back to 1312, the well was built to supply water through a vast system of underground tunnels and pipes to the prisoners of a local prison known as ‘The Stinche’ (now Teatro Verdi) that stretched as far as the Bargello. Pino bought the location in 2006 and restored it himself with the help of some friends. Despite its

restoration, Pino reveals that it was always his principal intention to maintain a tangible sense of history when stepping into the cellar. This is something he has undoubtedly achieved; the place is almost like a time-machine propelling you back a few centuries into a part of authentic medieval Florence – albeit in excellent condition. Pino imparts his knowledge while taking guests around the cellar, offering a range of Italian wines to sample with an appetizer of complementary regional cheeses, cuts of meats, bread, olive oil and balsamic vinegar.

SNACK BAR ANNA THE BAGEL POINT Enjoy the relaxing atmosphere and the jumbo cappuccinos while having a chat with Anna and Stefano, who will welcome you in a warm and friendly way. Grab one of the many homemade bagels, the bar’s perfected specialty since 1990. These bagels and sandwiches have made this snack spot one of the most popular among local Americans. While taking a break in the back seating area you will be pleased to experience the no-charge table service, which places Snack Bar Anna far from the ‘tourist traps’ in the city. Opening hours: Mon. to Sat.: 8:30 a.m.–7:30 p.m. Via de’ Ginori, 26/r 055 23 81 143 miranna.lomartire@gmail.com

Guests are offered a spectrum of Tuscan flavors to try, from a variety of the region’s renowned Chianti Classico to white wines that include Chardonnay, Sauvignon and Pinot Grigio. The wine-tasting ends with the most exclusive reds of the cellar: Bolgheri, Super Tuscan, Morellino and Montepulciano. Upon request, guests also enjoy a buffet lunch comprising fresh pasta, specialty Italian second courses, and “the best panini in the world” made by Pino himself. Pino boasts that 90 percent of the wines he holds are of Tuscan origin, and that his tours prove so popular that he often ships back boxes of the wine sampled to America in order to appease impressed customers. Those looking to take a taste of Tuscany back home can find comprehensive information on shipping zones and freight costs on the company’s website. Pozzo Divino’s wine tours can be organized for tourist groups, families and universities, and cost only €15 a head – which not only makes it an experience to enjoy over the festive season but also an ideal Christmas gift for lovers of Tuscany’s finest vintages.

Pozzo Divino Only 15 Euro! Via Ghibellina, 144/r 055 24 66 907 Open from Monday to Saturday Wine-tasting on Sundays by appointment (minimum 10 people) www.pozzodivino.it

WINE ON TAP IN SANTO SPIRITO Bring your bottle to be filled starting from less than €1.50 straight from the barrels of Il Santo Vino. Here patrons can choose from a wide range of Italian wines alongside selected local specialty and organic products.

Opening hours: Tuesday to Sunday: 10 a.m.–2 p.m.; 5–9 p.m. Borgo Tegolaio, 46/r Tel. 055 53 87 122 , 345 90 93 425 www.ilsantovino.it Facebook: Il Santo Vino

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Dine with Dante

amed after Dante Alighieri’s The Divine Comedy, a homely, rustic taverna fittingly lies on Via dei Cimatori, only a few meters away from Dante’s house. The restaurant offers traditional dishes based on medieval recipes. Some are adapted and revisited for the modern age in a way that one maintains the omnipresent feeling of Florentine history and tradition – so much so that Dante himself could walk in and dine next to you. Others are as they were centuries ago. Traditional medieval-style dishes include homemade ribbon pasta with wild boar and mushroom sauce, roast shin of pork with new potatoes and seasonal vegetables, risotto inspired by medieval Tus-

can flavors, and tasting plates of assorted cheeses accompanied with fresh fruit and jams, including the taverna’s specialty hot red pepper jam. Also serving as a wine bar and pizzeria, the restaurant offers an eclectic selection of wines from its cellar, an outdoor summer terrace, and is fittingly decorated in a medieval style with armour and banners.

Taverna Divina Commedia Via dei Cimatori, 7r 055 21 53 69

OPEN EVERY DAY

12:00 - 15:00 / 19:00 - 24:00 RISTORANTE PIZZERIA IL TEATRO Via Ghibellina 128/R 055 2466954 www.ristoranteilteatro.net

16 Florence News

FOOD&WINE

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Natural Aphrodisiacs to Improve Your Groove C. DE MELO

t happens to almost every couple in a long-term relationship. In time, the sizzling passion cools. Should you break up? Have an affair? Get a divorce? Before doing anything drastic, take a deep breath and be assured that it’s perfectly normal to experience a lull once in awhile. Stress, work, kids- the daily grind- can dampen your sex life. How can you improve your libido the easy and natural way? By changing your mindset, adding a bit more spontaneity into your life, and eating foods that will naturally increase your desire and overall health. The following is a list of 8 foods that will help you get your groove back. 1. Seafood: You’ve heard about oysters being aphrodisiacs due to their high content of zinc, which is essential for sexual health and reproduction, but what about other forms of seafood? Oily fish like herring and salmon contain omega 3 fatty acids, which aid in maintaining a healthy heart and arteries. During intercourse, a strong heart and clean arteries keeps the blood pumping and flowing to where it’s needed. Other zinc-rich foods include almonds and asparagus.

3. Wild Arugula: Foods packed with antioxidants help block free radicals and other negative chemical toxins that may cause damage to the libido. Remember, good health promotes desire. Other high antioxidant foods are kiwi and citrus fruits. 4. Figs: The “divas” of the fruit world. Figs are enticing to look at, sensual to eat, and contain loads of fiber. Consuming high-fiber foods causes you to feel full so you eat less, thus keeping you in shape. The old rule is true: if you LOOK good, you will FEEL good, which enables you to be more confident, happy, sexy. 5. Strawberries: Not only are these fruits red (the color of passion), they are also rich in Vitamin B, which helps produce high sperm counts in men. 6. Banana: This phallic fruit is a powerhouse of potassium, vitamins, and minerals. There is also a special enzyme, bromelain, that

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A Tradition Dating Back to Roman Times

IN HONOR OF VALENTINE’S DAY: 2. Chocolate: Naturally boosts serotonin levels and gives you a burst of energy (like caffeine). Did you know that consuming large amounts of chocolate creates the same euphoric feeling as being in love? It’s true. Try it.

FEBRUARY

Florence News 17

CITY BEAT Love in Florentine Proverbs Here is what florentine proverbs have to say on the subject of l’amore:

The origins of Valentine’s Day

specifically promotes the male libido.

he roots of St Valentine’s Day stretch back to pre-Christian times and to the ancient Roman fertility festival of Lupercalia, celebrated on Feb. 15. Dedicated to Rome’s twin founders Romulus and Remus, famously suckled by a she-wolf (lupa), and Faunus, the god of agriculture, the festival involved a rite in which the blood of a sacrificed animal was sprinkled over both crops and women in order to promote fertility. According to legend, these newly nubile young women also put their names into an urn to be selected and subsequently paired up with the city’s bachelors for the following year. Lupercalia was outlawed under Christianity’s disapproving gaze until a papal decree in the fifth century declared Feb. 14 St. Valentine’s Day. History (and supposition) offer several contenders for the romantic soul after whom it was named, including a martyred priest named Valentine who allegedly performed marriages for young lovers in defiance of a ban by Emperor Claudius (implemented due to the belief that single men made better soldiers); and an incarcerated Valentine who supposedly fell in love with his jailor’s daughter, and whose signed love

7. Avocado: The ancient Aztecs believed the avocado to be a powerful aphrodisiac and named it ahuacate, which literally means “testicle.” This creamy, decadent fruit is especially beneficial for pregnant women since it is loaded with folic acid. 8. Eggs: Balances hormones and stress via high quantities of Vitamins B5 and B6. Eating eggs shortly before sexual intercourse will enhance the experience. Think about that the next time you’re eating an omelette. After adding the above foods into your diet, go out and buy yourself a new outfit, get a babysitter for the kids (or better yet, go on weekend getaway or book a hotel room to break the monotony), buy a bottle of good wine, turn on some soft music…I’m sure you can figure out the rest.

C. De Melo Author of SABINA and several other books www.cdemelo.com www.cealiberti.it

7 Delicious Reasons to Visit Florence this Season

letter is credited with being the first ‘valentine’. The custom of exchanging valentines can be traced back to 1415 when Charles, Duke of Orleans wrote the first recorded valentine to his wife while imprisoned in the Tower of London following his capture at the Battle of Agincourt. Valentine’s Day appears in both Chaucer and Shakespeare as a celebration of lovers, and by 1797 the exchange of handcrafted love notes and tokens had become so popular that The Young Man’s Valentine Writer was published to aid heartsore young men in the crafting of suitable messages to their beloveds.

The Custom of exchanging valentines can be traced back to 1415 when charles, Duke of Orleans wrote the first recorded valentine to his wife

♥ Il bacio sta all’amore come il lampo al tuono . A kiss is to love as lightning is to thunder. ♥ L’amore fa passare il tempo e il tempo l’amore . Love makes the time pass and love passes with time. ♥ By the 19th century, mass production, the availability of cheap paper lace and an efficient postal system provided the perfect ingredients to turn sentiment into an enterprise, culminating in the first Hallmark Valentine’s Day card in 1913 – and we’ve never looked back: more than a billion valentines are exchanged each year. For singles who dread the oncoming tide of sugary sentiment and resent the price spikes associated

with it, take heart: Italy provides relief in the form of St. Faustino, the so-called ‘Saint of Singles’. A Christian martyr executed under Hadrian in 120 AD and the patron saint of Brescia, this obscure saint offers salvation by virtue of the fact that his feast day falls on Feb. 15, providing an opportunity to toast the passing of St Valentine’s Day for another year.

Dov’é l’amore é gelosia . Where there is love there is jealousy. ♥ L’amore domina senza regole. Love prevails without rules.

In Florence there is a new pharmacy HAIR SALOON, NAILS & BEAUTY, SPA ON VIA DE' NERI

Cavour Come to visit us. You will find a wide range of skincare products dedicated to you. Ask your pharmacist for advice.

C. DE MELO

he invigorating nip in the air combined with the comforting scents of chimney smoke and roasting chestnuts means that autumn is officially here. Fashion-conscious Florentines break out their sleek leather boots, wool coats, and cashmere wraps to hit the streets in style. In my opinion, this is the best time to visit Florence. Not only is the tourist season is winding down (allowing you to have the Renaissance city all to yourself), but there are so many culinary delights this time of year. Here are seven autumnal treats to tickle your taste buds: 1. Tartufi Toscani (Tuscan truffles): Their aroma is enough to make your mouth water. These fancy fungi grow beneath the soil and are sniffed out by specially trained

dogs. Pigs were used in the past, but they also like to eat the truffles and it was always a race to get to them first. There are two types of truffle that come from Tuscany. Tartufo Bianco (white truffle), which sells for 2000,00 - 4000,00 euro per kilo depending on the time of year. Tartufo Nero (black truffle), which sells for less than 800,00 euros per kilo. Keep in mind that truffles weigh next to nothing, so a small piece may run about 50,00 euro. What can you eat truffles with? Nowadays, just about everything. It tastes amazing sliced (paper thin) over a fine piece of meat or grated on pasta or eggs. Some people sprinkle black truffle on pizza or mix it with butter to create an elegant crostini. 2. Funghi Porcini (porcini mushrooms): Earthy, aromatic, and silky in consistency, porcini mushrooms are divine. Porcini can be

diced or sliced, sautéed and eaten in risotto, pasta, or over meats. It can also be thinly sliced and eaten raw, seasoned with some olive oil and a bit of balsamic vinegar. NOTE: Never wash mushrooms! To clean them, use a cloth and carefully remove dirt. 3. Cavolo Nero (black kale): Super healthy, full of antioxidants, and flavorful, this “winter veggie” is mostly used in soups, like ribollita. Cut the stalks short since they tend to be a bit tough, wash them and then boil or steam them until tender. Drain and toss in a hot skillet with some salt, pepper, and olive oil. Serve as a side dish or on toast (as a crostini). 4. Fichi (figs): You have to catch these darlings in the early autumn. I’ve always considered figs to be the luxurious divas of all fruits. There are two kinds of figs: decadent black and elegant white

and both are delicious. They taste wonderful by themselves or as a side to gorgonzola, honey and walnuts. Fig and ricotta cheese is also a classic combination, so look for those two flavors in gelaterias and combine them on your cone or in your cup. 5. Castagne (chestnuts): There is nothing like the warm scent of roasting chestnuts on a chilly evening. Street vendors all over Europe sell them in paper cones and people walk around, munching as they window shop. Ahhhh... Here in Tuscany, they also make chestnut flour that is used in making desserts. 6. Melograno (pomegranate): Every time I eat one of these, I am reminded Hades and how he tricked Persephone. These fruits are beautiful and taste great, but they’re also good for you. This Thanksgiving, why not decorate the turkey

by placing pomegranate seeds all around it? 7. Schiacciata all’Uva (schiacciata with grapes)” This traditional flat bread is usually topped with rock salt or vegetables with savory spices. After the grapes are harvested in the fall, however, just about every forno (bakery) or pasticceria (pastry shop) in town makes this very special version of schiacciata. Normally, black grapes are used but- if you’re lucky, you may find a pasticceria that uses white grapes.

C. De Melo Author & Artist www.cdemelo.com Author of: SABINA: A Novel Set in the Italian Renaissance (available on Amazon.com)

Lloyds Farmacia Cavour Via Cavour, 59/R Firenze We are open for you: Monday to Saturday 9.00 - 20.00

LIFESTYLE SALON & SPA

NEW GYM NEAR SANTA MARIA NOVELLA Brand new gym in the heart of Florence is now open. • Fully outfitted with the latest cardio & strength equipment from Technogym • Offering a wide array of classes ranging from Zumba to Pilates, every week • All-inclusive memberships with no sign-up fees • Special pricing for students • Friendly English-speaking staff • Free wi-fi Mon. to Fri.: 8 a.m.-10 p.m, Saturday: 10 a.m.-6 p.m, Sunday: 10 a.m.-1 p.m. Via dei Fossi, 56/r 055 23 96 497

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18 Florence News

ST. VALENTINE

‘Dishonest’ Women? Climbing Down into the Arno, Naked Love and sex in medieval Florence

FEBRUARY www.florencenews.it go to sleep. Breaking the rule was sanctioned with a fine, and since money was never enough for most of the population, Florentines were very attent to their nighttime behavior. Officers patrolled the streets to catch out anyone disrespecting the rule in nights in which the only feeble light was provided by occasional lanterns. One of the most treacherous encounters that could befall a wouldbe Romeo was the street filth hidden in the darkness, the result of a common habit in which citizens disposed of their waste by simply throwing it – both solid and liquid – out of the window. Shakespearean-style attempts to woo one’s beloved by moonlight were similarly quashed: under decree of Misters Eight of the Guard and the Balia, the playing of violins, mandolins and any other kind of song-singing instrument was banned. In addition, it was prohibited to make “any sort of noise,

One of the most treacherous encounters that could befall a wouldbe Romeo was the street filth hidden in the darkness

lthough the stereotype of love in medieval days stirs the image of love-struck young men playing lutes beneath their beloved’s window, the reality in Florence,

and not just in Florence, was quite different: Florentine nights were dark, squalid, silent and spent in solitary. Let’s try to do a journey back to un-

derstand. Nights were announced by a bell. That was the beginning of l’ora di notte, the night hour, after which all citizens had to stay in their houses, quiet, and prepare to

Learning Love from Dante

under pain of two scudi [currency] or two strokes of the rope”. How far from the loving stereotypes that history has left us. Let’s now imagine a lady yielding turned her eyes toward me where I stood in fear and trembling, and with her ineffable courtesy, which is now rewarded in eternal life, she greeted me; and such was the virtue of her greeting that I seemed to experience the height of bliss. It was exactly the ninth hour of day when she gave me her sweet greeting. As this was the first time she had ever spoken to me, I was filled with such joy that, my senses reeling, I had to withdraw from the sight of others. So I returned to the loneliness of my room and began to think about this gracious person.” (La Vita Nuova III).

After Beatrice died, Dante, devasted, devoted the rest of his life to his muse.

Henry Holiday| Dante and Beatrice

THOMAS RICCIOTTI

ante was just 9-years-old when he first glimpsed Beatrice. The historic fact, crucial to Dante’s personal and artistic life, happened at a May Day party at Beatrice’s father’s house. Dante fell in love instantly, although on that occasion he did not speak to Beatrice. “From that time

forward, love fully governed my soul,” he wrote in one of history’s greatest love poems, La Vita Nuova [The New Life]. From that moment on, the divine poet began to show up in the places where he knew he could catch a glimpse of the woman he was destined to love forever. Just admiring her from a distance was enough to fuel his love. It was only nine years later, in 1283

when he was 18 and she was 17, that she spoke to him for the first time. She was walking along the bank of the Arno, wearing white, accompanied by two older women. Passing Dante, she turned and greeted him. Such was the emotion and the joy, that he rushed to his room where he instantly had the dream that became the scene of the first sonnet in the Vita Nuova: “As they walked down the street she

Arranged marriages were customary in Medieval Florence, particularly amongst the upper classes. At the age of 21 Dante married Gemma Donati, while a year later Beatrice wed Simone dei Bardi. Tragically, she died only three years after. Dante, devastated, remained devoted to her for the rest of his life. Although her physical influence was minimal in Dante’s life, Beatrice is perennially present throughout. Forever, she will be the highest allegorical representation of spiritual love, the key to Paradise leading to ‘salvation’, the metaphor for the search of God, the Divine Love.

to her suitor’s affection. If caught, she had to face humiliating public punishment and there is even more. The Magistrate of Honesty – that was how a civic judge was called at that time – penalized ‘dishonest’ women by making them climb down into the water of the Arno. Naked. Three times.

...the playing of violins, mandolins and any other kind of song-singing instrument was banned Whatever the season was and in the presence of curious onlookers gathering near Ponte Santa Trinità that was the pace where ‘justice’ was made and ‘honesty’ restored. The Magistrate of Honesty also made the lives of prostitutes similarly difficult banning them from living in certain quarters of the city. A decree still legible in the surroundings of the Church of Ognissanti states that in almost 300 branches of the church: “Women who lead a bad life cannot live there, under pain of being captured and having their clothes thrown in the street, and the owners of the house being evicted from the premises for two years.” It’s little wonder that the idea of courtly love has filtered down to us in its present form: considering that Dante and Beatrice’s exalted union was in reality little more than a nodding acquaintance, imagination is preferable.

The first sonnet from La Vita Nuova To every captive soul and gentle lover Into whose sight this present rhyme may chance That, writing back, each may expound its sense, Greetings in Love, who is their Lord, I offer. Already of those hours a third was over Wherein all stars display their radiance, When lo! Love stood before me in a trance: Recalling what he was fills me with horror. Joyful Love seemed to me and in his keeping He held my heart; and in his arms there lay My lady in a mantle wrapped, and sleeping. Then he awoke her and, her fear not heeding, My burning heart fed to her reverently. Then he departed from my vision, weeping.

20 Florence News

ST. VALENTINE

LOVE YOURSELF A Better YOU Awaits! C. DE MELO

first met professional Life Coach, Sophie Kruijsdijk, at the wonderful “Live it Local” event in Palazzo Belfiore this past October. We exchanged business cards, and a month later I received an email from her offering me a complimentary mini life-coaching session, and gratefully accepted. I met Sophie at a quiet cafe where she explained the concept of life coaching to me before initiating our session. I was extremely skep-

Many of us possess a plethora of life experience within us, yet it may become inaccessible under layers of daily stress. tical. Sophie asked me to think of a goal or an objective, so I told her that one of my writing projects had reached a dead-end. Exactly thirty minutes later, I was teary-eyed and grateful with a head full of ideas and positive resolutions. Rather than merely doling out advice, Sophie asked stimulat-

ing questions, which compelled me to really think before formulating answers. Throughout this exercise she monitored my responses and gave helpful feedback (much like Socratic dialectics, where Socrates would help his opponent arrive at the final knowledge of virtues through deeply questioning his beliefs). Many of us possess a plethora of life experience within us, yet it may become inaccessible under layers of daily stress. My initial goal was to overcome writer’s block, but the more Sophie questioned me, the more I realized that there were deeper issues lurking beneath the surface- issues that were hindering my potential. It was like walking down a long hallway and opening one door after another. Life coaches are not therapists in the traditional sense of the word, but my session (albeit short) was in many ways cathartic. Listening to myself describe the problems and solutions made them real be-

cause spoken words hold power. I became suddenly aware of what needed to be done, and the moment I voiced this aloud, it became a commitment. Sophie works with foreigners in Florence/Italy who are struggling with cultural issues. Being far from one’s native country and not having a family nucleus to readily offer support may prove challenging for some. Life coaching can help a person to develop the skills required to make his or her stay in Florence the best that it can be both professionally and socially. Sophie received her training in Rome from the globally recognized International Life Coaching Federation. Sessions are 100% private and confidential. The rate is 70 euro per hour and packages are also available. Sophie is fluent in English, Dutch and Italian, and she offers sessions on Skype to those who live outside of Florence. Remember: the best investment you can make is in yourself. For more information, please visit: lifecoachsophie.com.

C. De Melo Author of SABINA and several other books www.cdemelo.com www.cealiberti.it

Exoteric Studies and Spiritual Coaches

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Discover the First Digital Brand in Italy Dedicated to Love O

n November 18, 2015 Compagnia Editoriale Aliberti launched the first digital platform in Italy dedicated solely to love, featuring contemporary authors from around the world. Francesco Aliberti’s vision for this ambitious project became a reality with the help of Dr. Cinzia Giorgio (Love’s Editorial Director). Dr. Giorgio is a well known Italian author, literary critic, and a recipient of the prestigious Strega literary award. Readers can find literature based on the following 10 facets of LOVE. Note: the following list contains the original Italian description followed by English translation. Lovestruck = romanzi d’amore ambientati ai nostri giorni (contemporary romance) Lovesick = romanzi d’amore con un tocco di mistero (romantic suspense) Love Story = romanzi d’amore ambientati in epoche passate (historical romance) Entangled Love = romanzi d’amore intensi (intense love stories with a twist) Love Affair = romanzi erotici (erotic romance) Lovely = romanzi per giovani lettori (young adult)

Lovebirds = commedie romantiche (chick-lit) International Love = romanzi d’amore in altre lingue (books written in the original language: English, French, Spanish, Russian, Japanese, etc) Love Letters = saggi, teatro, epistolari e poesie (wise, poetic or theatrical love) Civil Love = scritti sulla passione per l’arte, la politica, l’impegno civile, la letteratura e così via (political, civic or artistic love) All books are currently being offered as e-books, which is a fairly new concept for Italians, but gradually gaining popularity due to the prevalence and convenience of e-readers (especially when traveling). In time, the majority of these e-books will be printed into hard copies. NOTE: For English readers, go to: www.cealiberti.it and click on Love. Then click International Love to find books in your language.

Three generations of women span the most exciting period of Medici history....

VINCENT CROCE WOMEN'S CLOTHING FASHION

Something rather different than the usual is what you can find at the Applied Metaphysics Academy, an Holistic center and a school for exoteric studies in Florence. The school has a team of professional spiritual coaches and organizes groups of a minimum of 15 people, such as the Exoteric Tour of Florence. Private sessions of past life regressions, channeling with a personal spiritual guide, astrological chart, tarots, aura cleaning, chakra rebalancing, ayurvedic, multidimensional and craniumsacral massage are also available. The Applied Metaphysics Academy is located on Borgo Pinti, 20.

Via Maggio 4r/6r • 055 2398891 Borgo San Frediano 1r • 055 295129 Borgo La Croce 3c • 055 2478200 www.vincentcroce.it

A Historical Novel by C. De Melo Available on Amazon www.cdemelo.com

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10 Tips for New Arrivals

A guide for adjusting and thriving in Florence

? ? I

n the labyrinth of narrow streets and foreign road signs, Florence can feel like a daunting place for anyone setting foot here for the first time. Naturally, those who have just arrived come across hurdles as they attempt to get familiar with the city. To avoid the dangers of the first period, here are a few tips. w GET LOST: Take a stroll off the tourist-beaten path. Wandering

through the side streets by foot is one of the best ways to get to know the city. You’re more likely to find authentic Italian crafts and food shops this way. Pack a camera, some cash and leave your worries behind. Don’t fret. All roads (eventually) lead back to the Duomo. ALWAYS KEEP TRACK OF YOUR BELONGINGS: Florence is not a dangerous city but pickpocketing

F can occur, so stay mindful. Don’t leave your important personal belongings unattended when you are in a bar, pub or restaurant; always keep an eye on your purse and always keep it close. KNOW HOW TO FIND A DOCTOR: If you find yourself in need of medical assistance while in Florence, you can find English-speaking doctors by calling 055/475411. The call service is active 24-hour a day. The Medical Service Center is in Via Roma 4, very close to the Dome and to Piazza della Repubblica. Website is www.medicalservice. firenze.it KNOW WHERE TO FIND A BIG SUPERMARKET: It is not easy to find big supermarkets in Florence. However, CONAD SAPORI & DINTORNI are three large supermarkets in the city center that offer typical Italian products and a wide selection of wines. The CONAD SAPORI & DINTORNI for those living near the Ponte Vecchio, in Santo Spirito or in Santa Croce is on Via de’ Bardi, near the Ponte Vecchio. For those living near the train station the CONAD SAPORI & DINTORNI is on Largo Alinari at the end of Via Nazionale, very close to the station. The third big supermarket is very near the Dome, in Borgo San Lorenzo. SPEAK THE LANGUAGE: It’s easy to get by in Florence without speaking Italian, but challenge yourself - it’s worth it! In stores, clerks tend to respond in English if they realize that it is your na-

Florence News 21

CITY BEAT tive language, but be persistent. Gesture. Practice. Meet the locals. Pick up a newspaper, magazine or even a brochure written in Italian and see how much you can understand. Underline the words and phrases you haven’t learned yet and look them up! SOME MORE LANGUAGE ADVICE: Just to make learning a foreign language a little bit more challenging, Italian has several words that look and sound like the English equivalent but have completely different meanings. For example, a ‘libreria’ is an Italian bookshop, not a library, so be sure to pay for your books or you could find yourself in a bit of an awkward situation. The importance of accents should also be noted: by forgetting to stress the ‘o’ in ‘casinò’ you are referring to a brothel, not a gambling house! EAT LIKE A LOCAL: Americans are accustomed to fast food. We like our coffee on the go; sandwiches ordered, prepared and consumed in the passenger seat of our cars in under five minutes. While in Florence, you should eat like the locals: take the time to eat. Sit (or stand) at a bar to drink your cappuccino. Enjoy it. You might find the change of pace relaxing. When you’re out to eat for dinner, appreciate the multi-course meal. No more of the take-home doggy bags! Portions are smaller here and you’ll notice that food is made for quality, not quantity. Embrace the fact that you’re eating the most delicious Italian food, and remember to take

time to enjoy it. When looking for a sandwich shop, avoid the prepared sandwiches on display. For the freshest ingredients, find a place that will make your sandwich when you order. A tip for gelato lovers: stay away from the foot-high rainbow mounds of ice cream. They are that bright for a reason. They aren’t as natural and definitely not as fresh. DRINK LIKE A LOCAL: Wine is part of Italian culture and is to be enjoyed and appreciated, not abused. Italians will laugh at anyone they come across drinking on the streets, so pace yourselves. Sit at a table and drink for pleasure as opposed to bingeing! TAKE ADVANTAGE OF THE TREASURES OF TUSCANY: To live like a local, you have to know your location. While it’s exciting and rewarding to travel all over Europe during this time, check out what Tuscany has to offer! A lot of activities and trips can be done in a single day, by train or by bus. STAY POSITIVE: Not everything goes according to plan, but it’s you who determines the outcome of the situation. A bad attitude isn’t going to get you far, with either locals or other students you meet. By keeping an open mind, you’re more likely to absorb the culture and take away more from your experience. Understand that you will be challenged linguistically, intellectually and morally, and recognize that it’s all part of the adventure.

22 Florence News

CITY BEAT

Survive Culture Shock

A guide to Italy’s surprises, contrasts and chaos

SARAH HUMPHREYS

“

talia! Oh Italia! Thou who hast the fatal gift of Beauty”: Byron’s tribute to il bel paese still rings true today. Italy’s magnetic charm has been attracting visitors for cen-

turies and it is easy to see why. It is almost impossible not to fall in love with this uniquely seductive country, justifiably well-known for its scenic beauty, artistic treasures, incredible food and wine, and iconic historical and cultural heritage.

Italy is full of surprises, contrasts and chaos; not least for those who are visiting for the first time. Many aspects of Italian life – ranging from eating times, ‘rules’ about drinking coffee, trying to cross the road, and dealing with unwanted attention – can be a real culture

FEBRUARY www.florencenews.it shock. Culture shock can be defined as ‘emotional disorientation caused by continuously unexpected reactions to the new culture.’ Culture shock can manifest itself in various ways, including anxiety, depression, loneliness, migraines and lack of energy. It is described as having four stages: the Honeymoon Period, Crisis Period, Adaption Period and Stabilization Period. Psychologists say that all fours stages must be lived through to achieve intercultural competence. Apart from being overwhelmed by the exquisite food and wine, musical language, natural beauty and (mostly) lovely weather, the newcomer to Florence also risks being infected by ‘Stendhal Syndrome’, so-called after the 19th-century writer: a psychosomatic condition that causes rapid heartbeat, dizziness and even hallucinations after an individual has been exposed to an ‘overdose’ of beautiful art. Doctors at Santa Maria Nuova regularly admit tourists suffering from ‘mental imbalances’, often after visiting the Uffizi, which is considered a particularly ‘dangerous’ spot. One theory is that viewing so much culture can bring on feelings of anguish and insecurity. On recovering from an overdose of art, beauty, ice cream and fine Chianti, reality starts to kick in. As the ‘romantic’ Honeymoon period comes to an end, less positive aspects of Italian life will start to become more obvious. Feelings of anger and frustration are quite normal at this point. Nowhere is this more obvious than dealing

with anything connected to any kind of documenti, work permits, banking or transactions at the post office. You will just have to get used to standing in queues for hours (make sure you check that you’re in the right one) before being practically ignored by a bored, power-crazed official with no concept of service. Bureaucracy is quite simply a nightmare. You need an enormous amount of patience to deal with these situations, no matter how long you stay in Italy. Once you begin to get used to rude shop assistants, insane driving, triple parking, not drinking cappuccinos after dinner and shops closing over lunchtime, the Adaption period begins and Italian life will begin to seem normal. After adjusting and adapting, it is usual to begin to feel at home. Learning Italian is a crucial step in fitting in and understanding the culture. After going through culture shock, psychologists say that you develop greater empathy for your surroundings, are able to think in a new cultural frame, have greater cultural patience and develop a more critical mind to see through myths and prejudices. As a foreigner living in Italy, you are allowed, or even expected to be different and even a little eccentric. In the words of American writer Erica Jong, “What is the fatal charm of Italy? What do we find here that can be found nowhere else? I believe it is a certain permission to be human, which other places, other countries, lost long ago.”

THE MOST FAMOUS DISCO IN FLORENCE CLUB RESTAURANT & SHOW YAB FLORENCE The most famous disco of Florence - which is a point of reference for generations both in Italy and abroad (boasting more than 36 years of successful nights after its first one in 1979) – shows a completely novel look, abreast with the syles raging in the world, fruit of studies and collaborations of experienced people who have met the requirements of the owners. Artists such as Robert De Niro, Sylvester Stallone, Sean Penn, Madonna, David Bowie, Yves Saint Laurent and others are our stricly friends.

YAB THE APP GRAND OPENING - February 9th at 10:00 PM - EVERY THURSDAY! TAKE IT EASY: JUST HAVE FUN with "COYOTE YAB"! DOORS OPEN: 10:00 PM with COYOTE BISTRO' available for Dinner and tasty snacks until late at night! COYOTE KARAOKE from 10:30 PM to Midnight! LIVE COVER BAND until 01:00 AM with one the most entertaining Florentine bands amongst the local Florentine and International University scene! DJ set to follow until late! And of course don’t miss our special COYOTE GIRLS!!! FREE ENTRANCE FOR EVERYONE UNTIL MIDNIGHT!

Take YAB on your mobile phone and follow the many trends that we have always been able to grasp in our programming. Look for "YAB Firenze" on the App Store and Play Store. YAB Firenze, the temple of music and the best DJs!

Via dei Sassetti, 5 055215160 • www.yab.it

24 Florence News

CITY BEAT

Rex Hosts Martera’s House’n’Roll

reaking barriers between different styles of music is DJ’s Leo Martera formula for his Saturday night at Rex bar. The idea came when Martera noticed that one-musical-theme nights were beginning to bore people after a while. Thus came the intuition to mix not just songs, but also styles of music. And it worked, making Saturday nights at Rex one of the most appreciated nights in Florence. With the advantage of dancing in a bar and not in a club, the atmosphere is far more easy-going and the night more dynamic. This formula proved successful also because on Saturdays Rex does not mix just different styles of music, but also different kinds of people. For more than ten years Martera has been djing and playing drums

in the most popular Italian and European clubs and parties, such as those organized by Luisa Via Roma with AZEALIA BANKS and CRIS CAB. His live dj-set is a mix between djing and drumming, which interact to create a show of great impact, with sonorities ranging from deep house to the more typical electronic grooves of clubbing. Martera is supported in his productions by some of the most acclaimed deejays in Europe. For more information on Leo Martera check the website leomartera.net.

House’n’Roll

Rex Firenze Saturday night Via Fiesolana 25/r www.rexfirenze.com

www.florencenews.it

A ‘Port’ for Jazz and A Passion for Vinyl Traditional Italian Music A

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FEBRUARY

tepping into Data Records 93 on Via de’ Neri feels a little like being transported to another age, with its pink-and-purple psychedelic interior and thousands of CDs and vinyl records lining the walls. Today the shop remains a haven for music lovers and collectors of rare records alike. Its collection of valuable and eclectic records means that Data Records 93 ships all over the world, and receives visits from DJs from Milan, Paris and London, all looking for uncommon records and enticed by this small shop’s impressive reputation and vast collection.

Data Records Via dei Neri, 15/r www.superecords.com Get a 20% discount showing this article

s with any port, Porto di Mare-Eskimo is synonymous with exchange, correspondence, and coming and going. This year the club has an important novelty: courses of typical Italian dance Tarantella, which will be taking place on Friday night. Porto di Mare's focus on live music and cultural exchange is one that the man who started the club, Francesco Cofone, holds close to his heart.

“We never play anything recorded here” he says with a smile. The method of bridging cultures at Porto di Mare is just getting out an instrument and beginning to play. “I’d be keen to talk to anyone who is interested in playing and sharing their music with us,” Francesco says. The club has also created its own big band, the Eskimo Jazz Orchestra. An all-star Tuscan jazz band born under the initiative of

Francesco, it includes some of the biggest and respected names on the jazz scene amongst its members. Among these are trumpeter and band conductor Fabio Morgera, who played under legendary American jazz cornetist; composer and conductor Butch Morris for 30 years in New York; Dario Cecchini, sax and leader of Italian marching band Funk Off; trumpeter Luca Marianini; trombone player Stefano Scalzi and guitarist Riccardo Onori, who both played alongside renowned Italian singer-songwriter and rapper Jovanotti; percussionists Walter Paoli, ex-member of 1970s Italian jazz, progressive rock and electronic group Area, and Piero Borri; clarinet player Nico Gori; and guitarists Paolo Conte, Ivano Fossati and Riccardo Galardini – to name just (a little more than) a few.

Porto di Mare CHECK THE PROGRAM ON FACEBOOK

Rex is another thing altogether�

CONTACT FRANCESCO COFONE Via Pisana, 128 055 71 20 34 Porto di Mare

Jazz, Blues & Groove

House’n’Roll Have a Different Experience

For our full program check our Facebook page Via Ghibellina 178/r • 055 2645411 • www.ristoranterubaconte.it

VIA FIESOLANA 25R — FIRENZE 055 2480331 www.rexfirenze.com

WINTER EDITION TOURIST INFORMATION

26 Florence News

NEWS

SOS

EMERGENCIES

Emergency Phone Number: 113 Ambulance Service: 118 Carabinieri (National Military Police): 112 Environmental Emergency: 1515 Fire Department: 115

+ HEALTH SERVICES

A Shuttle to the Barberino Designer Outlet Located in the green heart of Tuscany, just 30 minutes from Florence, Barberino Designer Outlet is the shopping destination where you can browse items from 200 of the most luxurious Designer fashion Brands, including Dolce & Gabbana, Michael Kors, Hugo Boss, Polo Ralph Lauren, Nike, Patrizia Pepe and many more at 30-70% less all year round. You can reach Barberino Designer Outlet with a comfortable shuttle bus service from Florence train station, 8 times a day. Tickets can be purchased online or directly on the bus. Price is €13 per person, round trip. Traveling with the shuttle bus, you will also be entitled to get the exclusive FASHION PASSPORT, the discount card which will grant you an additional 10% reduction on the Outlet price. Shuttle bus to Barberino Designer Outlet departs from Florence, Piazza Stazione 44 (in front of the Zoppini store) at: 9.30 a.m. –11.30 a.m. –2.00 p.m. – 4.00 p.m. Return to Florence at: 1.00 p.m. – 3.00 p.m. – 6.00 p.m. – 8.00p.m. For more information visit www.mcarthurglen.it/barberino TAX FREE ON YOUR FAVORITE BRANDS

Firenzecard is the official museum pass of City of Florence. It costs 72€, it is valid for 72 hours starting from the first entrance and it allows you to enter only once into all the museums of the Circuit and to visit permanent collections and temporary exhibitions. With the card you can enjoy the priority access to museums with no need to make reservation. It is promoted by the Municipality of Florence, the Ministry for the Arts and Cultural Activities, the Metropolitan Municipality of Florence and the Chamber of Commerce of Florence.

www.firenzecard.it

Piazza Duomo: 055 212221 Open Pharmacies: 800 420707 Veterinary Services: 055 7223683 Poison Center: 055 7947819

LAW ENFORCEMENT Railway Police: 055 211012 Florence Municipal Police: 055 3283333 Local National Police Force: 055 49771 Fire and Rescue Service: 055 24901

BUSES Ataf: 6 a.m.-9 p.m. : 800424500 Li-nea: Bus info, 055 7355742 FBUSITALIA: SITA NORD: Via Santa Caterina da Siena 15 www.fsbusitalia. it, 800 373760 ETRURIA MOBILITA SCARL (Arezzo): www.etruriamobilita.it 0575 39881

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TOURIST INFO POINTS

Via Cavour, 1r - 055 290833 Vespucci Airport - 055 315874 Piazza del Duomo - 055 215440 Piazza Stazione, 4 - 055 212245

FEBRUARY

A World in Dance

Danza in Fiera at the Fortezza da Basso from Feb. 23-26

ON THE ROAD Roadside Assistance for Foreigners: 800 116800 Obstruction, theft, and towed vehicles: 055 4224142 Highways, route planning and traffic jams: www.autostrade.it/en

AIRPORTS A Vespucci, Firenze Peretola: www.aeroporto.firenze.it/en 055 3061300 Lost and found: 055 3061302 G. Galilei, Pisa: www.pisa-airport.com 050 849300 Lost and found: 050 849400

TRAINS Trenitalia: 89 2021 Interactive Voice Response System: 063000 Italo: Call center, 6 a.m.-11 p.m. 060708

ater this February, Florence is celebrating dance with one of the biggest events in Europe dedicated to the form of art, Danza in Fiera, which will be returning for its sixth edition at the Fortezza da Basso from Feb. 23-26. Professionals, dancers, studios, groups and companies will gather from all over the world offering stages, competitions, classrooms, castings and auditions on all the different styles of dance ranging from classic ballet to contemporary dance, tango, hip hop, Latin, country musical, folk, and waltz. With over 500 events scheduled, their participants will include professional and amateur dancers alike.

After last year’s success, this edition will hold the International Academies Open Days, a series of auditions that will give dancers the possibility to perform for the most prestigious dancing institutions. It’s a great opportunity for anyone to showcase their talent! The Royal Ballet School of London and the New York-based Parsons Dance Company will be in attendance. At the ground floor of Danza in Fiera the most famous dance-related dress brands will showcase their creations, while on the upper floor dance schools, academies and festivals will present their activities, all of which can be booked through the fair’s website.

GLUTEN FREE RISTORANTE QUINOA Vicolo di S. Maria Maggiore, 1 055 29 08 76 www.ristorantequinoa.it

Danza in Fiera Opening Hours: Thursday 15:00 to 20:00 Friday, Saturday and Sunday 9:00 to 20:00 Ticket: One day: 15 euro Four days: 40 euro purchased directly at the fair For further information: ph.: +39 0574 575618 email: info@danzainfiera.it web: www.danzainfiera.it

Florence News 27

CITY BEAT

FEBRUARY www.florencenews.it

Il Supermercato... da Gustare e deGustare

Color, Size and Satire

Preparing the floats for the Carnevale of Viareggio

Florence News 29

CITY BEAT Parades From Feb. 5 to Feb. 28, Viareggio transforms into the factory of fun with parades of giant paper-night parties, fireworks, masked balls, theater, culinary events and big sporting events worldwide. The triple cannon is the unmistakable signal that the party starts. The giant gargoyles ‘come to life’ between movements, music and dancing. Feb., Sunday 5 1st MASKED PARADE Feb., Sunday 12 2nd MASKED PARADE

Sapori & Dintorni is the new way to do the shopping: in the heart of Florence there is a place where Food, Culture and Territory meet. Get in and discover the Big Supermarket to test and taste! Inside you will find many typical products of the Italian food tradition. Buy your favorite product and taste it within the tasting area.

FIND YOUR LOCAL BIG SUPERMARKET IN THE CITY CENTER

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ased on ancient ship-building techniques and constructed with the highest degree of craftsmanship, the floats of Viareggio’s Carnevale are a pride for builders whose passion is such that it can take them up to a year to prepare one single float. But time does not matter, as far as the goal of impressing people and winning the Carnevale is accomplished. The idea of creating an open-air parade at Viareggio dates back to 1873. Since then, the Carnevale of Viareggio has drawn hundreds of

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thousands of visitors annually and has been televised to a national and international audience. At the Carnevale the atmosphere is magic, surreal. Patrons are clothed in fancy dress and armed with silly string and confetti, while vendors sell typical fried sweets called cenci and bombolone. Giants can weigh as much as 40 tonnes and carry moving papier-mâché figures, some up to 20 meters tall, along a two-kilometer circuit on Viareggio’s seafront while music, masked performers and dancers accompany the procession throwing confetti and sweets to the crowds. Cheeky satire is directly propor-

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THOMAS RICCIOTTI

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At the end of the parade winners will be announced Great Ending Fireworks

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THE BIG SUPERMARKETS ARE OPEN: • Monday - Saturday: from 08.30 am to 9.00 pm • Sunday: from 09.30 am to 9.00 pm

Via de' Neri 18r

tional to floats’ sheer size designed upon themes ranging from mythology to international politics, current affairs and Italian or international celebrities. Behind the grinning caricatures competition is fierce as parade winners are announced at the end of the festivities. A tradition that definitely worths to be explored, the Carnevale festivities in Viareggio begin this year on February 5 with an opening parade and take place every Sunday until Saturday February 28. The final day of festivities closes with the announcement of parade winners and a fireworks display.

At the end of the parade winners will be announced Great Ending Fireworks

BUY YOUR TICKET ONLINE ON VIVATICKET.IT

Payment Tickets can be bought the day of each parade at the ticket office or at the main ticket office of the Fondazione Carnevale at the Palazzo delle Muse in Viareggio’s Mazzini Square. Tribune sits must be booked in advance via fax (+39 0584 580771) or email (biglietteria@ilcarnevale.com) and must be paid by bank transfer 20 days before the masked parade that you wish to attend. For more precise information check the website viareggio.ilcarnevale.com/en/.

30 Florence News

CITY BEAT

Fantasy, Fairy tales and Frolics

Venice Carnevale returns from Feb. 11-28

FEBRUARY www.florencenews.it

city’s stone-and-water streetscape is transformed into a magical forest of trees, plants and a musical backdrop. The symbol of Carnevale – the handcrafted mask – will be celebrated this year with an inaugural competition open to national and international contenders culminating in an award ceremony and parade. The fifteenth-century tradition of the codega – a servant who escorted Venetian nobles at night with a lantern – is reprised with Walking Theater’s ‘Secrets of Venice’ tour, which will take visitors to secret corners narrating the

Carnevale is derived from the two latin words carnem and levare meaning a farewell to or removal of meat.

very year Venice celebrates its Carnevale with sumptuous masked parades, boat pageants, street theater, performance art and the traditional Festa delle Marie. The tradition of Carnevale recalls the fairy tales drawn to the city from all over the world, highlighting Venice’s role as a crossroad of

cultures. It is seen as a gateway between the East and West, where myths – and fears – of monstrous creatures from overseas were translated into tales, paintings and decorations. San Marco will play host to daily parades, multi-lingual comedians and a Best Masked Costume contest voted by the public, while the

Rafting

history and the legends of the city. The traditional Festa delle Marie is scheduled on Feb. 18 with the usual parade of 12 girls recalling the homage that the Venetian Doge paid to 12 of the city’s chaste maidens with the offer of jewels as a bridal dowry. Although Carnevale is first mentioned in historical documents dating back to 1092, its establishment as an annual event is believed to have begun with the Republic of Venice’s victory over

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Ulrich II of Treven in 1162, which required him to pay an annual tribute to the city in the form of 12 loaves of bread, 12 pigs and a bull. The animals were slaughtered to commemorate the victory around the period of Shrove Tuesday, the day preceding the 40-day Christian period of abstinence known as Lent. This confluence of the sudden excess of meat with the onset of the Lenten fast meant that speedy consumption was necessary, and here are probably the origins of the term ‘carnevale,’ which is believed to derive from the two Latin words carnem and levare, which signify a farewell to meat. Carnevale has become synonymous with overindulgence and

PAINTING Short and & Longterm DRAWING Workshops on

the Enduring symbol of Carneval is the handcrafted mask merry-making. The celebrations in Venice draw three million visitors each year.

Carnevale of Venice Feb.11-28 www.carnevale.venezia.it

ARDUINO DI BELLA GIOIELLI

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FEBRUARY www.florencenews.it

Florence News 31

FOOD&WINE

32 Florence News

NEWS

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Florence News 33

LITERATURE lesbian-themed novel, Carol (also published as The Price of Salt), set for release any day now. While Those Who Walk Away may not be her most immediately satisfying potboiler, I very much enjoyed its attention to detail, both the very real Venetian setting — more fascinatingly — the intricate moods of the novel’s protagonist, Ray Garrett, and its antagonist, Ray’s father-in-law, Ed Coleman. Ray

Credits: Flickr User amira_a

The Dark Side of Venice LEE FOUST

ven the most casual tourist senses, beneath the romantic lapping of the waves against the bridges and landings along its canals, that there’s something deathly about Venice. Is it because most mythologies locate the land of the dead across a body of water? Or maybe because Venice’s narrow, ill-lit passages are so much quieter than the car-trafficked streets of other cities? Perhaps it’s because classic novels like “Death in Venice” and “Across the River and into the Trees” have told us it’s a place where one goes to die. Or the sug-

gestion that a gondola — judging by its length, width, black lacquer and hanging lamp — is really a floating coffin? Whatever the reason, with Halloween at our backs and winter coming on, it’s time to curl up in front of the fire with a couple of thrillers from the late ‘60s that exploit the deserted, dark, and narrow passageways of the Serenissima. First up, the incomparable Daphne du Maurier’s “Don’t Look Now” (1966), a longish short story that heads-up a collection of tales to which it gives its name in the U.S.; the same collection was published in England as “Not After Midnight.” In the tradition beginning

with E. A. Poe’s “The Assignation,” — which combines Venice’s lush, romantic quiet with its melancholy association with death — “Don’t Look Now” adds the psychological side to the classically Gothic themes of love and death among the canals. Du Maurier’s tale depicts a British couple that has recently lost a child trying to come to terms with the tragedy by rediscovering each other and their love on a Venetian holiday. But the past is not so easily left behind and for a spiritual sensitive, it might actually be intricately intertwined with a deadly future. The story perfectly exploits the danger and silence of Venice’s twisted maze of bridges, streets, and dead ends.There’s also a fine film version of “Don’t Look Now.” Filmed in 1973 by British cinema-

tographer-turned-director Nicolas Roeg, it stars the beautiful and accomplished Julie Christie and Yankee Donald Southerland as our troubled travellers. The film intriguingly expands the short story’s situation, giving Southerland’s character a job in Venice (he’s restoring a church) and adds a Bishop character — in line with the 1970’s mania for Catholic-themed horror films like The Exorcist, et al. Roeg’s exciting visual style and a complex series of juxtaposed intercut scenes (expertly edited by Australian Graeme Clifford) steal the show — it’s stylish, sexy, and scary. I also want to praise Patricia Highsmith’s underrated, mostly Venetian-set thriller Those Who Walk Away (1967). Ms. Highsmith is in the news these days with Todd Haynes’ film version of her second,

LIVE MUSIC AND SPORT Via Faenza 27/r • 055 274 1571

Even the most casual tourist senses, beneath the romantic lapping of the waves against the bridges and landings along its canals, that there’s something deathly about Venice. enters into a deadly dance with Ed after his wife, Ed’s daughter, commits suicide. Beginning in Rome and moving on to Venice, the two men threaten, seek reconciliation, and assault each other by turns in a fascinating narrative maze (featuring sections narrated by each character) that again mirrors Venice’s twisting streets and canals to a T. If you love thrillers, enjoy the Venetian Gothic of du Maurier, Highsmith and Poe. After all, love goes best with a little dose of melancholy, does it not?

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SPORT

FEBRUARY www.florencenews.it

Jogging in Florence THOMAS RICCIOTTI

ogging in a crowded city with hardly any sufficient sidewalk space can be frustrating and dangerous. Luckily, Florence offers scenic routes where jogging is safe and enjoyable. Walking in the city center in the morning or evening, you are likely to encounter individuals in their sportswear, especially in parks and along the Arno. Here are six tips to maximize your jogging experience in the capital of art, along with specific routes you can take. 1) To avoid pollution, the best place to run is along the Arno. To avoid pedestrian and vehicular traffic, it is better to jog along the banks of the river and not on the street. The riverbanks can be easily accessed from Lungarno Cellini, on the other side of the Arno just a little outside of the city center. Jogging alongside the Arno River is not only the more “scenic route,” but it provides for excellent views of either the sunrise or sunset. 2) Far from the view of monuments and advisable to avoid pollution is also the Cascine Park with its large, open grassy spaces along the Arno. To get to the park just run along the river from Ponte Vecchio towards the Ponte Santa Trinità; past the bridge, keep on running, you will see an American flag; that is the consulate, keep straight and

you will find the park. The park has many paths that are enjoyable for joggers, and is a respite from the hustle and bustle of the city center. 3) If you head east from of the river, opposite of the Cascine Park, you will come across the paved, treelined parks Parco dell’Albereta and Parco dell’Anconella. These are the favorite spots of Florentine joggers, whose best quality is, similarly to that of the Cascine Park, that the air that is not polluted. The Parco dell'Albereta also has a five-a-side soccer pitch, a volleyball one and a tennis court. 4) If parks are what you’re after to accompany you during your exercise or distract you, the option to get the best view is the Boboli Gardens behind the Pitti Palace. An entry fee must be paid, but the garden is spectacular, especially at sunset. While many tourists come here after visiting the Palazzo Pitti, the park’s beauty offers joggers the possibility of breathing history as they exercise. 5) Another view-option is to start south of the Ponte Vecchio and continue east past Ponte alle Grazie. At the roundabout of Ponte di San Niccolò, turn right and follow the trees along Viale Michelangelo, and continue all the way around Piazzale Michelangelo. Turn right onto Via Galileo to bring you back down to the river and to your start-

ing point. The view is great, but the air that you breathe is not as good as in the parks. However, the pollution factor is soon crossed out by the magnificent view of the historical downtown. Many tourists flock to this piazza to take photos, but jogging in this area only makes it more special. 6) An alternative route offering a

view starts at the Duomo, heading south along Via dei Calzaiuoli and crossing the Ponte Vecchio until the roundabout at Porta Romana. Turn left onto Via Machiavelli and follow the winding road which turns into Via Galileo. Veer left upon reaching Piazzale Michelangelo and head around the back of the square, following the bends onto Via San Miniato. Head for the

river to get back to your starting point. Not only will you get spectacular views of the city whilst jogging on this route, but you will encounter streets lined with beautiful and majestic trees that are even more scenic during autumn when the leaves start to fall, or in the spring when nature revives again.

THE RESTAURANT OF THE FLORENTINES Located on Via Ghibellina near Santa Croce, Da Que’ Ganzi offers a fresh seafood and meat menu for both lunch and dinner. Tuscan specialties include ribollita and authentic Florentine steak, and all of the cakes and sweets are homemade. A special weekday lunch menu for less than €10 makes the restaurant affordable for anyone. Special dishes: BAKED SEA BASS & TUSCAN STEAK Mon. to Sun.: 12–2:30 p.m. & 7–11:30 p.m. Closed on Tuesdays. Via dei Boni 5r 334 7007714 www.leftluggageflorence.com

Via Ghibellina, 70/r •055 22 60 010 www.daqueiganzi.it • info@daqueiganzi.it

36 Florence News

SPORT

More Than Just Soccer

occer dominates Italian sporting culture, yet there are several other sports one can engage in while in Florence. Whether you are looking to cheer on horses, catch a foul ball or see a sport that you have never heard of, Florence has many events to offer. Rugby: Although seen as the evil step-brother to both American football and soccer, rugby does have a presence in Florence. The city has multiple teams for people of all ages, so there is no telling who you will see playing when you go to the practice pitch. The senior team is called Aeroporto Firenze and still has a number of games to play before the season ends in May. Even though they aren’t professional, it would be fun to see a rugby game in Italy. For more information go to www.firenzerugby1931.it

Basketball: Although not the same status as the Los Angeles Lakers, Fiorentina does have its own professional basketball team. The team is called Enegan Firenze and is part of the Italia-DNA Silver league. The team plays other local cities such as Lucca, Roseto and Bari. Despite being in second to last place with an 8–14 record, the team would love international support. It would also be fun to see how Italian basketball compares to American basketball with

March Madness coming up! For more information go to www.affricobasketfirenze.com or call 055 53 85 922. The office is located at Viale Paoli, 20. Baseball: Baseball is a great sport to watch with spring right around the corner. MLB spring training won’t start for a while, so why not take the time to visit another team? The Fiorentina baseball field is located a couple of blocks from the Fiorentina soccer stadium and is wonderful to go watch on an afternoon. The team is currently in Series C but has had success in the past in Series A. For more information go to www.fiorentinabaseball. it or email info@fiorentinabaseball.it. American Football: Just because Americans are the only ones who watch it, doesn’t mean they are the only ones who play it! Guelfi Firenze is the American football team in Florence and currently plays in the second league under the Italian Federation of American Football. Although the season is over, the team would love to play with Americans. Spend an afternoon with the team running up and down the field, catching footballs or showing them how good you are at the American sport. For more information go to www. guelfifirenze.it or call 339 70 12 020.

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Tips to Become a Fiorentina Fan

Discover alternative sports in Florence

FEBRUARY

Serie A Feb. 11, 8:45 p.m. Fiorentina - Udinese Feb. 26, Time TBD Fiorentina- Torino

BY SHUTTLE BUS: Bus no. 52 runs from Piazza Stazione at Santa Maria Novella train station to Stadio Artemio Franchi during the two hours preceding the game. The same shuttle runs return services up to an hour after the game finishes. From Rifredi train station take bus no. 54. These buses are usually packed, so if you have the chance to take an earlier one we highly recommended it. HOW TO GET TICKETS: Stadium tickets typically cost anywhere from €20–€70. They can be bought from online retailers or at authorized kiosks. The kiosk near Piazza della Repubblica (right off Via Pellicceria) is a common seller.

The best place to sit in the stadium is on the sideline so that you can see all the action. Sitting behind the goal is not ideal because it is difficult to view the opposite side of the field. However, these seats are usually the cheapest. Make sure that, under no circumstances, you sit in the visitor section. This section is physically barricaded from the rest of the stadium, and the visiting fans who find themselves outside of this designated section are separated from the rest of the crowd by a human shield of security guards. Despite these precautions, tensions can get heated, so prepare for some rowdy scenes. But do not fear; it’s all part of the authentic experience of a Florentine soccer match.

UEFA EUROPA LEAGUE Feb. 23, 9:05 p.m. Fiorentina -Mönchengladbach Round of 32, Game 2 Keep up to date with Fiorentina at en.violachannel.tv

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FIORENTINA HOME GAMES

How to get to the stadium:

FEBRUARY

he historic center of Prague, built between the 11th and 18th century, is one of Europe’s cultural and aesthetic gems. As one of the cities that has effectively preserved much of its original structure, the intriguing architecture of the early Middle Ages, High Gothic period and High Baroque period can be seen nestled on the banks of the Vitava River. Many of the glorious monuments, palaces and churches such as the Hradcani Castle, St. Vitus Cathedral and Charles Bridge were built mostly under the Holy Roman Emperor, Charles IV in the 14th century and remain main attractions. With the prestige of being one of the locations on the UNESCO World Heritage List, Prague’s architectural splendor can be credited with influencing the development of most European architecture, particularly that of Central Europe. Expressing various time periods through monuments created over its existence of over a thousand years, it is a mark of a truly diverse cultural heritage. Sites such as the Prague Castle, the Cathedral of St. Vitus and Hradćany Square in front of the Castle have become internationally known, as well as the Valdgtejn Palace on the left bank of the river, the Gothic Charles Bridge, the Romanesque Rotunda of the Holy Rood and the Gothic arcaded houses of the Old Town Square. Not only does Prague offer much of Europe’s visual brilliance, but it was additionally one of the main centers of Christianity. Founded in 1348, and one of the earliest to be established in Europe, the Prague

Prague, an Enduring Fairytale

Florence News 37

TRAVEL University was a major factor in the European Reformation. Many ideas of the Hussite Movement were formed at the university, which gave way to the beginning of the reformation. Prague has also been a vital center for the intellectual and cultural advancement of central Europe, being associated with renowned individuals such as Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, Franz Kafka, Albert Einstein and co-founder of the League of Nations, Edvard Beneš. In addition to its rich history, the modern side of Prague complements the city, offering a diverse selection of traditional cuisine, entertainment, art and nightlife. Many of the best Czech restaurants are located amongst the historic attractions. The John Lennon Wall offers a perspective on a more recent period of the Czech Republic, while Prague’s largest nightclub, Karlovy Lazne, offers five floors and ten bars, proving the city’s truly unique ability to mix old with new.

Included in the Itinerary: - Old Town Square - The Prague Castle - The John Lennon Wall - Views from Petrin Hill - Jewish Quarters - 5 Story Night Club

38 Florence News

TRAVEL

An Adventure in the Snow and in the Sky with Bus2Alps

Interlaken Winter

AT INTERLAKEN

terrain or skiing at any level of experience are all available during the winter season as well as paragliding, night sledding ice skating and canyon jumping. Snowshoe trekking and fun car, scooter and mountain bike rentals also offer an alternative way to explore the area adventurously. To counteract the energetic Swiss sport, Victoria Jungfrau Spa provides treatments ranging from simple massages to full-day wellness, and is a great place to stretch out muscles after a day on the mountain. Interlaken also offers evening and night time entertainment, such as the daily chocolate show and casino, to finish off a full day of exciting activities. The show, beginning at 5 and 6p.m., reveals how Schuh makes their world-famous chocolate sculptures. Casino Kursaal’s table games open at night for a lively way to end a long day. Traveling with Bus2Alps to Interlaken means that you will receive a 5% discount on almost all adventure activities with the company Outdoor Interlaken. They also arrange an optional day trip to Zurich, the shopping capital and largest city of Switzerland. With an open itinerary, visitors can cater the trip to their own interests, choosing their preferred activities while enjoying the comfort of planned travel and accommodations.

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n a small city nestled deep within the heart of the rugged Swiss Alps, relaxing beauty and high-octane adrenaline come to live in perfect harmony. The traditional Swiss village, which sits between Lake Thun and Lake Brienz, offers inspiring beauty, scenic mountain walks and action-packed adventures. A day at an Alpine Spa can easily collide with skydiving, snowboarding and night sledding at Europe’s winter wonderland. Interlaken has long been a key destination for winter sport in Switzerland and boasts one of the most picturesque landscapes in the world. With over 45 mountain railways, cable cars, chair lifts and ski lifts, the area is becoming increasingly famous for winter activity. Among the countless locations easily reached is Jungfrau, one of the top ski regions in the Alps containing four main peaks and more than 100 miles of ski trails all linked to Interlaken by mountain railway. The average length of the runs is about 4 to 9 miles, and various ski passes and packages are available. Additionally, the Interlaken area offers over 220 kilometers of cross-country and toboggan terrain. While skiing is one of the main attractions, a multitude of other activities make Interlaken an ideal retreat. Skydiving over the Alps from 13,000 feet up, snowboarding through the open

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FEBRUARY