Florence News - Summer edition 2019 by FN

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NEWS lorence News is distributed F throughout Florence in all key reference points for the English-

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The Florence Dance Festival Program

EDITOR: Caroline Oakland

ETI- Enquentro Tanguero Italiano- Giancarlo Pastonchi TJ + Tango Spleen|La Orquesta + Nicla Zonno TJ Friday, July 26 Start time: 9:30 p.m.

Spotlight on Choreography- Irina Baldini, Arianna Benedetti, Gigi Nieddu Monday, July 15 Start time: 9:30 p.m.

GR APHIC & L AYOUT DESIGN: Narine Nalbandyan, Ekaterina Chebotareva CONTRIBUTORS: Christine De Melo, Caroline Oakland.

Florence News is currently seeking outgoing and motivated candidates for its internship program. Interns will be exposed to all facets of weekly production, including news writing, photography, layout, advertising, public relations, circulation and graphic arts. Students currently studying art history, communications, journalism, marketing, advertising, public relations or graphic design are encouraged to apply. Write to: fnewev@gmail.com

FloDance 2.0- Leonardo, il visionario Thursday, July 11 Start time: 9:30 p.m.

Orchestra da Camera FiorentinaMusic of the Big Screen Saturday, July 13 Start time: 9:15 p.m.

EV ENT EDITOR: Caroline Oakland

INTERN WITH US

Tuesday, July 23 and Wednesday, July 24 Start time: 9:30 p.m.

Duetto d’autore- Kinesis C D C + Alleyne Dance Friday, July 12 Start time: 9:30 p.m.

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF: Lorenzo Picchi

REGISTERED AT THE TRIBUNAL OF FLORENCE N. 6008, ON 9/12/2015. PUBLISHER: Florence Service PRINT: ITS, Cavaglià (BI)

Carlo- Swan Lake & other Classics Tuesday, July 9 Start time: 9:30 p.m.

Kibbutz Contemporary Dance Company 2- 360° Monday, July 1 Start time: 9:30 p.m. Orchestra da Camera FiorentinaLa Storia del Tango Wednesday, July 3 Start time: 9:15 p.m. T.H.E.- The Human ExpressionDance Company Preview Friday, July 5 Start time: 7:00 p.m.

T.H.E.- The Human ExpressionDance Company- Invisible Habitudes Saturday, July 6 Start time: 9:30 p.m.

Roy Assaf Dance- Boys Wednesday, July 17 Start time: 9:30 p.m. Batsheva The Young EnsembleDecadance Saturday, July 20 Start time: 9:30 p.m.

Orchestra da Camera Fiorentina: Florence Cello EnsembleHumoresque Sunday, July 7 Start time: 9:15 p.m.

New York Dance Project/ Toscana Dance Hub- The New Generation of Dance Sunday, July 21 Start time: 9:30 p.m.

Les Ballets Trockadero de Monte

Sergeri Polunin- Sacré

ETI_ Enquentro Tanguero Italiano- Marina Mondini TJ + Sinfonica Milonguera | Omaggio al tango dell’Orchestra Sinfonica Fiorentina (Direttore: Giuseppe Lanzetta) + Damian Boggio TJ Saturday, July 27 Start time: 9:30 p.m. ETI – Enquentro Tanguero Italiano – Giovanni El Pequeño TJ + “De Flor en Flor” premiazione dei pionieri del tango italiani + Alfredo Petruzzelli TJ Sunday, July 28 Start time: 9:30 p.m. Compagnia Zappalà Danza – Instrumental Jam Tuesday, July 30 Start time: 9:30 p.m. Fabula Saltica- Cenerentola Thursday, Aug. 1 Start time: 9:30 p.m. Russian State Ballet- Swan Lake Saturday, Aug. 3 Start time: 9:30 p.m.

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A New Museum for Leonardo

he Le Macchine di Leonardo Da Vinci museum now has a new exhibition space on Via del Castellaccio 1r. Much larger than its twin museum on Via Cavour 21 (that is still open and can be visited together with the new one with a combined ticket that costs €10), the new museum is inside the Sforza Almeni palace, right behind the Dome and built in the 16th century to a design by Bartolomeo Ammannati. The new exhibition is now the largest in Florence dedicated to Leonardo. The two floors encompass about 300 machines of the Niccolai family built using Leonardo’s original drawings and projects. The new space was designed to wel-

come families and children alike, who can now learn in an enjoyable way Leonardo’s secrets in the didactic labs of the museum. Next to the museum labs, there is a space for video projections and a bookshop with a selection of international books on Leonardo Da Vinci. The core of the exhibition is the display of reproductions of Leonardo’s machines, many of which are interactive and functioning. Explanations are available in English, French, Spanish. For those speaking other languages a detailed catalogue is available in Russian, German, Portuguese and Japanese.

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Florence Dance Festival Sergei Polunin among performing artists

nder the artistic direction of its founders Marga Nativo and Keith Ferrone, the Florence Dance Festival returns this year from June 30 to Aug. 3. The festival has a 30-year-long history and its mission is to make dance accessible to the general public. The event will take place in the newly restored Great Cloister in Santa Maria Novella, a place of quiet splendor which testifies to the city’s cultural history, whose union with the festival will make a perfect fusion of tradition and modernity. The stage of the Grand Cloister will be shared with the Orchestra da

Camera Fiorentina, directed by Giuseppe Lanzetta (July 3, 7, 13, 27). The Florence Dance Festival will begin on June 30 with the show Open Day in Music and Dance taking place in the Great Cloister in Santa Maria Novella. Entrance is free. Among the most important events are two performances by Sergei Polunim (July 23 and 24); the FLORENCE IsRAEL international project, which will present some of the most acclaimed Israeli dance companies such as Batsheva The Young Ensamble (July 20), Kibbutz Contemporary Dance Company 2

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(July 1), and Roy Assaf Dance (July 17); the Les Ballets Trockadero de Monte Carlo from New York City (July 9); the T.H.E. Dance Company from Singapore (July 6); The New Generation of Dance (July 21). The Russian State Ballet will close the festival on Aug. 3. The Italian artists and dance companies that will be performing are FloDance 2.0 (July 11); the Compagnia Zappalà Danza (July 30); Fabula Saltica (Aug. 1); Kines Contemporary Dance Company (July 12); Spotlight on Choreography (July 15); Encuentro Tanguero Italiano (July 26, 27, 28). Overall, over 400 artists will perform. Workshops, meetings with artists, party evenings and open classes are scheduled as well. All concerts begin at 9:30 p.m.

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Leonardo’s First Landscape Provides Conclusive Proof of His Ambidexterity, Experts Say

hrough an analysis of the Landscape known as 8P after its inventory number, experts from the Opificio delle Pietre Dure, the Florence center of art conservation and scientific research, found conclusive evidence that Leonardo da Vinci was ambidextrous. A major diagnostic campaign of the Landscape – an Uffizi painting considered Leonardo’s first known drawing and dated work (Aug. 5, 1473) – was completed in the last few weeks, right before the painting made its return to Vinci after more than 500 years to be displayed at the exhibition Leonardo da Vinci.

The Source of Genius as part of the celebrations for the 500th anniversary of Leonardo’s death. The diagnostic examinations took several weeks and were conducted by a team of experts who used experimental equipment and techniques. The drawing bears two inscriptions: one on the front, in Leonardo’s famous mirror writing from right to left (Dì di s[an]ta Maria della neve / addj 5 daghossto 1473); and one on the back, in ordinary script from left to right (Io, Morando d’Antoni, sono chontento), the latter evidently being a note re-

lating to the draft of a contractual formula. Both inscriptions are autographs in the artist’s own hand (as are the sketches of a head and a human figure on the back of the sheet), written with the same ink (which is also the same ink used to draw most of the Landscape). A contention borne out by a meticulous calligraphic examination of the two inscriptions with various other autograph texts by Leonardo provided further proof of the genius’ ambidexterity. The combined study of the materials used, the typical features of Leonardo’s writing, and a comparison of the two inscriptions with other documents have suggested that Leonardo used his left hand to write the inscription in ‘mirror writing’ on the front and his right hand to pen the inscription on the back in ordinary writing. While displaying a certain number of differences, due to the use of different hands, both forms of writing share features that unquestionably reflect Leonardo’s unique style. “Leonardo was born left-handed but he was ‘re-educated’ at a very early age to use his right hand. From an accurate observation of his handwriting, including the inscriptions on this drawing, it emerges clearly that his writing as a right-hander was cultivated

and well-formed; in other words, Leonardo was eminently capable of using his right hand. But as far as the mirror writing from right to left is concerned, Leonardo is likely to have deliberately chosen to adopt this original style when he was an adult, the earliest examples of it being extremely elaborate: one might, in fact, even call them contrived; then, as time went by and he began to use this writing more frequently, it becomes a simpler and more cursive hand. Our hypothesis is that the idea came to him from his observation of the writing in re-

verse on the tracing paper that he used for his drawings after turning them over,” said art historian Cecilia Frosinini. Confirmation of Leonardo da Vinci’s ambidexterity is not the only result of the in-depth diagnostic study conducted by the Opificio on Leonardo’s earliest drawing. Opificio experts also shed light on numerous other mysteries enclosed in the drawing which would have never been discovered just by using photographic techniques of analysis. These include the full emergence under infrared light of two

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different versions of the landscape on the front and a similar process on the back, where two other landscapes totally different from the landscape on the front are superimposed one upon the other. They depict a river with a stream and two banks connected by a bridge with a sharp and jagged rock formation on the left. Leonardo first drew this landscape using carbon black; then, he highlighted some of the features in ink and added some mountain peaks. The use of carbon black, probably in pastel form, suggests that he began to use this material earlier than previously thought. Experts also concluded that the numerous traces of sketches drawn in sanguine on the upper part of the back of the sheet can be dated to 1473, quite before Leonardo’s earliest-known sanguine drawings, which dates to 1492. Beneath the riverscape to the lower left and further up, an examination of the back has revealed a few lead-

point drawings, a stylised flower (a rosette), and several geometrical motifs. The drawing also gives evidence of a series of mysterious incisions made with the so-called ‘blind’ or ‘colourless’ stylus, some of which could be clearly interpreted (as it is the case of a horse on the back of the sheet),while others could not (although they suggest a sec-

ond mountain range on the front, or that uncertain significance on the front may well be marks left by another sheet placed on top of this one, indicating that the sheet was intended for everyday use rather than as a work in its own right). Extensive, and naturally non-invasive examinations, along with the use of a substantial number of different technologies and scientific

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NEWS models, were required to reveal the secrets of this Landscape 8P. The drawing was infrared inspected with a highly advanced model capable of acquiring 32 different color bands. Opificio experts also used an innovative fluorescent X-ray. ‘Traditional’ observation was made under the microscope and through high-resolution photo-diagnosis supported by computer processing. The multifaceted exams also allowed to put together an accurate reconstruction of the creative process behind the Landscape. Leonardo used different tools and materials to produce it, including a lead stylus that made a grey mark on the sheet, kind of an embryonic pencil, to trace the “base” or outline sketch for the whole drawing. He then elaborated on this leadpoint sketch using ink containing copper and carbon black elements, probably superimposing on the sheet a layer of tracing paper on which he had already composed part of the drawing in order to be able to draw the ‘skyline’ of the landscape with

greater accuracy. He painted the vegetation, the rest of the ground, the mountains and the water free handily. The drawing on the front was executed in two separate phases: in the first phase he used a stylus, tracing paper and one kind of ink; in the second, a different kind of ink with a different chemical composition. “It is also possible to attempt a realistic dating of the two different operations if we compare this data with the data that we might obtain from an analysis of the inks used by the artist to write dated documents,” said Frosinini. “The elements that have emerged during this diagnostic campaign have opened up new prospects for the interpretation of Leonardo’s drawing known as 8P and of how he ‘built’ the Landscape, his technique, and his habits and skills as a writer, proving that he was ambidextrous – a fully-fledged revolution in the context of Leonardo studies,” said Uffizi director Eike Schmidt.

“Beside them, part by part, he wrote in letters of an ill-shaped character, which he made with the left hand, backwards; and whoever is not practised in reading them cannot understand them, since they are not to be read save with a mirror" (Giorgio Vasari, Life of Leonardo)

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Uffizi Tributes Cosimo I de’ Medici Three exhibitions dedicated to Florence’s first Grand Duke

o mark the 500th anniversary of the birth of Cosimo I de’ Medici, the first Grand Duke of Florence, the Uffizi Museum Complex presents three exhibitions until Sept. 29. The first exhibition, One Hundred Lances for the Prince, tells the story of the Medici’s German guard corps – the ‘Guardia de’ Lanzi’ in Florentine patois – of halberdiers. The exhibit is on display in the first floor of the Uffizi. This is no coincidence, as from the windows of the exhibition halls visitors can see the Loggia of Orcagna in the Piazza della Signoria, which was once the façade of the German guard corps headquarters in the Uffizi, and whose name Loggia dei Lanzi comes from an abbreviation of the German word Landsknecht. The exhibition tells the story of the guard corps story from a social, cultural and military standpoint. Divided into four sections, it displays over 90 pieces including armour, weapons, costumes, engravings, paintings, documents and books recounting the corps and its history. With the introduction of the Lanzi guards in Florence in 1541, Cosimo I also wanted to demonstrate his loyalty to the Habsburg Emperor Charles V.

The lancers, whose main function was to protect the sovereign and his closest relatives, played a crucial role in the context of the Medici court for almost 200 years, until 1738. The exhibit also shows what has survived of Cosimo I’s own suit of armour and the splendid armour of Captain Fernberger with the Medici arms embossed on it from the Künsthistorisches Museum in Vienna. “The Medici Archive Project’s re-

Sottana della corte di Cosimo I | 1560 ca. | velluto unito di seta cremisi | Museo di Palazzo Reale, Pisa

search into the German halberdiers in Florence has led to the emergence of previously unknown information, bringing to light forgotten or unknown works of art, and offering a new interpretation of countless figurative documents of the era associated with the history of Florence in the time of the Lanzichenecchi,” said Uffizi director Eike Scmidt. The second exhibition is entitled Weaving a Biography. 17th century tapestries in honor of Cosimo I and showcases nine majestic wool and silk tapestries hanging in the White Room and the Hall of Niches of the Pitti Palace that illustrate the key moments in the rule of the first Medici Grand Duke. It highlights the way in which, between 1653 and 1668, Ferdinando II de’ Medici interpreted the production of tapestries as a tribute to the founding father of the Grand Duchy of Tuscany. The tapestries, which range from five to over eight metres in length, were originally devised for the Hall of Saturn in the Pitti Palace. Arranged in chronological order, they tell the story of Cosimo I de’ Medici’s public life and his most significant achievements, from his rise to power to the consolidation of his rule over Tuscany, from the

Pugnale d’accompagno | 1570-1610 | acciaio, legno | Musei del Bargello, Firenze

architectural transformation of Florence to his relations with papal power and his foundation of order of chivalry. Designed by painters and woven in the manufactory set up by the Duke, the tapestries were intended for display in a thoroughly Baroque triumph of decoration. They foreshadow the lavish splendour life of the greatest royal palaces in Europe. The result was an apotheosis of Medici power embodied by Cosimo amid the gilding, stucco work of Giovan Battista Frisone and the frescoes of Ciro Ferri depicting The Ideal Prince Borne Aloft between Prudence and Valour towards Glory and Eternity. Eventually, only six of the eight tapestries woven were hung. The seventh and eighth in the series, dedicated to relations with the monarchies of Europe, are on display in the Hall of Niches to

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give visitors an impression of the complete set. The third exhibition, on display in the Hall of Niches of the Pitti Palace, showcases The Peasant with his Barrel, which is the very first statue ever carved for the Boboli Garden made by Giovanni di Paolo Fancelli to a design of his master Baccio Bandinelli sometime before 1557. One Hundred Lances for the Prince Uffizi Gallery Weaving a Biography. The 17th century tapestries in honor of Cosimo I Pitti Palace The First Statue for the Boboli Garden. The ‘Peasant’ Restored Pitti Palace Until Sept. 29

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Leonardo and His Books The Library of the Universal Genius

he exhibition Leonardo and His Books. The Library of the Universal Genius is on display from June 6 to Sept. 30 at the Galileo Museum. Through a selection of manuscripts and incunabula, the exhibition explores Leonardo’s relationship with books, the culture of his time, and the great authors who lived before him. Computers at the museum will allow visitors to look through the genius’ digitalized books and manuscripts and to understand how he used them. For Leonardo, books

were not mere items, but also ‘machines’ of the human mind to be built or disassembled in order to discover their ‘mechanisms’ – their words, thoughts, and illustrations. By the end of his life, Leonardo owned nearly 200 books, an astonishing number for a 15th-century artist-engineer. A reconstruction of the workshop where Leonardo worked on his drawings, notebooks, and other writings will also be featured. In addition, thanks to a project by an international team of art history and history experts, all Leonardo’s books can be consulted in the Museo Galileo’s digital library, providing scholars with a formidable tool to study Leonardo. The exhibition is organized by chronological order. It begins with the story of Leonardo’s encounter with the universe of books and the written word – Da Vinci family documents, the first books owned by the young Leonardo (works by Dante and Ovid), and books written by great masters of his time such as Alberti, Toscanelli, and Pacioli. The illegitimate son of a young notary by the name of Piero, who lived and worked in Florence, Leonardo was brought up by his grandfather, a merchant by the name of Antonio, who recorded the child’s birth on the last sheet of a notarial

protocol of his father “ser Piero di ser Guido”. Perhaps that protocol – which was made up of a series of sheets of paper, folded, tied together, and covered with lines of small dark marks that his grandfather called “letters” and “writing” – was the first ‘book’ ever seen by Leonardo. We do not know if there were other books in that house, but we can reasonably assume that there was a small family library, a common characteristic of the houses of merchants, bourgeois, and notaries of that time. Between the 14th and 15th centu-

ries, books were precious objects for Tuscan families. They were passed down from generation to generation and often displayed proud notes of possession and transmission to the heirs with the usual formula “This book belongs to [...] and to his descendants.” Upon his arrival in Florence, Leonardo found himself in the heart of the district that had the greatest concentration of booksellers and stationers. Between 1467 and 1480, Ser Piero lived on the corner between Via delle Prestanze and Piazza San Firenze, had a studio in the Palazzo del Podestà, and maintained strong ties with the monks of the Badia. A few steps away, in the shadow of the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore, was Verrocchio’s workshop, where Leonardo was initiated into the arts. In this area, right in the centre of the world of goldsmiths and metal workers, there were Florentine famous printers such as Bernardo Cennini and Filippo Giunta. The first concrete evidence of books read by Leonardo can be found on an enigmatic sheet of the Codex Atlanticus (f. 195r-v): a series of short quotations from Luca Pulci’s Pìstole (Letters), Francesco Petrarca’s Trionfo d’Amore (Triumph of Love), and above all Ovid’s Metamorphoses. A few years later, upon moving to

Milan, Leonardo decided to start writing and became an author himself (or, to use his own words, an “altore”). In this period, he began to search for, and buy, more books, which by now could spread more rapidly due to to the advancement of printing. The Milanese shelf included 40 books, mostly of literature (both sacred and profane) and linguistics (manuals of grammar, rhetoric and style). Leonardo was also an avid reader of poetry (the Acerba by Cecco d’Ascoli, the Quadriregio by Fed-

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erico Frezzi, the Morgante by Luigi Pulci, the Driadeo by his brother Luca, the Heroids by Ovid, Petrarch and Burchiello, and the misogynistic Manganello), as well as of short stories of every kind, from the great history (Livy, Justin, the Cronaca di Isidoro) to the anecdotes of the Vite de’ filosofi (Lives of the philosophers) and Poggio’s Facetiae to Aesop’s fables. The shelf of Latin manuals on grammar, style and rhetoric and vocabularies included books such as the Rudimenta grammatices by Niccolò Perotti, Regulae latinae by Francesco da Urbino, Regulae grammaticales by Guarino da Verona, Varietates sententiarus seu synonima by Stefano Flisco da Soncino, Exempla exordiorum by Gasparino Barzizza, Catholicon by Giovanni Balbi, Vocabulista ecclesiastico vulgare latino by Giovanni

da Savona, and the Elegantiolae by Agostino Dati. Among the readings on religion were the De civitate Dei and Sermons of Saint Augustine translated into the vernacular, a book of sermons by Saint Bernardine of Siena, a Passion of Christ (perhaps by Bernardo Pulci), a De tentatione, a Leggenda di santa Margherita, a Del tempio di Salamone, and the Vita e i miracoli del beatissimo Ambrogio. As far as scientific and medical literature is concerned, Leonardo had books that were widely used in universities at his time as well as others such as the Tractatus de urinarum iudiciis by Bartolomeo Montagnana, the De natura humana by Antonio Zeno, the Anatomice sive historia corporis humani libri V by Alessandro Benedetto, to which is added also a “book of equine medicine”. He also had Arab treatises on astrology, Albumasar and Alchabitius (translated in the vernacular by Francesco Sirigatto), an astrological booklet by Firman de Beauval (the De mutatione aeris), a “quadrant”, the Cosmography of Ptolemy, and technical-artistic books such as Leon Battista Alberti’s De re aedificatoria, Ludi mathematici and the lost De navi.

Leonardo and His Books Museo Galileo Piazza dei Giudici 1 June 6 – Sept. 22

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Sisters in Liberty

copy of Pio Fedi’s Freedom of Poetry statue, which is believed to have inspired Frederick Bartholdi’s Statue of Liberty, will be on display in New York City’s Ellis Island Museum of Immigration from Oct. 11, 2019, to April 26, 2020. Although it is impossible to say with certainty that Bartholdi found his inspiration in Pio Fedi’s work as he was spending some time in Florence, “the two statues are sisters as they represent the

same ideal of freedom,” said exhibition curator Paola Vojnovic. Pio Fedi’s sculpture was recently scanned in the highest possible resolution through a technique invented by a team of neuroscientists from Kent State University, Ohio. The copy that will be exposed at the Ellis Island Museum will be prepared on the base of the scansion and therefore will be as tall and heavy as Pio Fedi’s original: three-meter high for a total weight of 250 kilograms.

The project is part of the celebrations of the bicentennial of the US consulate in Florence and is also meant to reinforce the good relationships between Tuscany and the United States. The Statue of Liberty was given to the United States by the French government as a way to acknowledge the friendship between the two countries which had been established during the American Revolution. It represents Libertas, the Roman goddess of freedom. To commemorate the 100th anniversary of the Declaration of Independence, Bartholdi was commissioned to ultimate the sculpture by 1876, while the creator of the Eiffel Tower, Alexandre Gustave Eiffel, was given the task to design the supportive structures allowing the statue to stand upright. In 1885, nearly 10 years after its planned completion, the statue was brought to the New York and still acts as a sign of freedom for the nation. Pio Fedi’s statue is placed on the left side of the entrance to the Basilica of Santa Croce and is currently undergoing works of maintenance. Like the Statue of Liberty, the memorial depicts a female figure draped in robes representing the Liberty of Poetry. Both sculptures share similar crowns and poses, with the right arm pointing up and the left arm resting at the side. While the Statue of Liberty holds a torch in the right hand and a tablet in the left, Fedi’s work holds a broken chain in the right hand and a lyre and laurel wreath in the left hand.

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The Colors of Judaism in Italy

Exhibit tells the history of Italy’s Jewish Community through textiles

he Uffizi Gallery hosts an innovative exhibition exploring the history of Italy’s Jewish community through 140 items including tapestries, lace works, textiles and decorative fabrics. The exhibition, entitled The Colors of Judaism in Italy, is on display at the Uffizi’s Aula Magliabechiana and runs until Oct. 27. Thanks to an outstanding variety

of textiles’ motifs, in which color often predominates, The Colors of Judaism in Italy shines the spotlight on the intercultural and international character of Italy’s Jewish community from the ancient time to the 20th century. The exhibit addresses themes such as the role of writing as a decorative motif, the use of textiles in the synagogue, embroidery as a secret la-

bor, and the role of women. Italy’s Jewish communities re-elaborated the artistic expressions and styles of the places where they settled. Textiles from Livorno, Pisa, Genoa and Venice reveal the influence of the Near East, whereas those produced in Rome, Florence and Turin tend to reflect a proximity with the developing tastes of Italy’s ruling classes. Garments on showcase include embroidered fragments from the Museum of Fine Arts in Cleveland and two curtains from the Jewish Museum in New York and the Victoria and Albert Museum in London, which, together with those from Florence, form a triptych of fabrics similar in both technique and symbology. One of the most important items on display is a late 15th century niello casket from the Israel Museum in Jerusalem, which kept a tally of the laundry being used by family members. Second-hand garments, especially women’s clothing, often provided the precious fabrics used to make furnishings and vestments for synagogues. In Fra’ Galgario’s Portrait of Count Giovanni Battista Vailetti, dated 1720 (an exceptional loan from the Gallerie dell’Accademia in Venice), the sitter wears a splendid morning coat in precious brocade; in Sebastiano Ceccarini’s Allegory of the Five Senses (1745), the girl’s gown is made of the same fabric as the Ambron mappah made in 1791–2 in Rome. The embroidery is astonishing. Some of it has “speaking coatsof-arms” in sumptuous Baroque

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frames, since Jews were prohibited from receiving noble titles. The oldest fabrics on display are datable to the 15th century. Among them are a curtain for the holy ark from the Jewish Museum of Rome, another curtain from the Pisa Synagogue, and a textile panel from the ‘Badia Fiorentina hanging’ which adorned the walls of the church on feast days. The exhibition closes with a masterpiece: a piece of lace, about 8-meters long, designed by painter and designer Lele Luzzati for the ocean liner Oceanic.

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“It is a sweeping exhibition exploring a theme never addressed before. Visitors will be stunned by the variety and richness of the items, which range from solemn liturgical vestments and fabrics to diplomatic gifts, garments, embroidery, portraits, ready-to-wear and much more. These fabrics tell the brimming, riveting story of the Jewish people in Italy,” said Uffizi director Eike Schmidt. “The Jewish production of textiles, as that of silverware and other forms of decorative art, is bound to the history of Italian art. It has been influenced by the changing tastes of Italy’s artistic civilization, and has itself caused and influenced such changes. This is why this exhibition concerns everyone and shines the spotlight on a common heritage – an unbelievable heritage both in terms of quality and quantity – which needs to be enhanced and protected,” said president of the Foundation of The Jewish Museum of Rome, Alessandra Di Castro.

The Colors of Judaism in Italy Uffizi Gallery Admission: € 20; concession € 2.00 for EU citizens aged 18 to 25; Open Tuesday-Sunday from 8.15 a.m. to 6.50 p.m. Until Oct. 27

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Hallelujah Toscana Photographs by Marco Paoli

s part of the celebrations of the 600th anniversary of the Istituto degli Innocenti, the Museo degli Innocenti hosts the exhibition Hallelujah Toscana by photographer by Marco Paoli. The exhibit runs until Sept. 10, is curated by artistic director of the Museo Novecento, Sergio Risaliti, and is accompanied by poems written by Alba Donati. Hallelujah Toscana recounts an unacknowledged, misunderstood

Tuscany made up of contradictions, nuances, and beauties that lie outside the classic iconography of the region. In Paoli’s journey, made of 30 black and white photos, Tuscany becomes in fact a place that is at once ancient and contemporary, fascinating and romantic, painful and mysterious. “Through this journey, I have discovered marvels and splendours hidden to most people, a glorious pasts buried and forgotten, made of ruins, remains, splendid buildings abandoned and neglected, where the traces of human presence are lost and where nature is the sole, undisturbed protagonist. Hallelujah is a hymn, a simple exclamation. Sometimes sarcastic, perhaps polemical,” says Marco Paoli. Thanks to the collaboration with poetess Alba Donati, a Tuscan native too, Paoli’s images become even more eloquent. “Alba manages to go beyond what the ‘blind eyes’ of a photographer can glimpse. With her poems, she traverses the purely visual surfaces of my photographs, and gives them a voice,” Paoli says. In Paoli’s photographs, human presence is deliberately absent. Inhabited by silent, moss-clad sculptures, there are instead spectral views of villas and gardens, such as Villa Corsini in San Casciano, Villa Mansi in Lucca, and Villa Gar-

Florence News 11

NEWS zoni in Collodi. There is the Parco di Celle, with its contemporary art works, the bright marble of the Carrara quarries, and the Fonte delle Fate in Poggibonsi, with the floating crocodiles and curled up bodies of Mimmo Paladino; there is the prison on the island of Pianosa, the Cisternone and Terme del Corallo in Livorno, the Fucecchio Marshes, the San Marco Church in Florence, the abandoned factories along the Lombricese mountain stream above Lucca, the Giogana of Camaldoli, the former Banti Mental Asylum in Pratolino, and the Pinti Cemetery in Florence. All the images on display are surrounded by what Paoli calls a “silent melancholy” and reveal the hidden emotions that only an unspoilt landscape can provide. Born in Tavarnelle Val di Pesa in 1959, Paoli lives and works in Florence. His projects include the Amazonlife Project and the documentation of the Busajo project in Soddo, Ethiopia, in support of street children.

Hallelujah Toscana Museo degli Innocenti Piazza SS. Annunziata, 12 Open daily from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. Until July 28

12 Florence News

NEWS

Fiesole Commemorates Its Anti-fascists

he city of Fiesole presents an exhibition celebrating the Monument to the Three Carabinieri, an imposing bronze sculpture created in 1964 by Marcello Guasti for the town’s new panoramic terrace designed by architect Giovanni Michelucci. The work was made in honor of three carabinieri - Alberto La Rocca, Vittorio Marandola and Fulvio Sbarretti - who helped anti-fascist partisans in the fight against the occupying German troops during the Second World War. The Nazis killed the three in the summer of 1944. The exhibit, titled Marcello Guasti, Giovanni Michelucci, and the Monument to the Three Carabinieri, begins on Feb. 17 in the Sala Costantini. The first part of the exhibition is called “The Genesis of the

SUMMER EDITION www.florencenews.it

Tony Cragg on Display at Boboli Gardens

Monument: ‘The Leap towards the Infinite.’” The second part, called “Guasti and his Contemporaries: A Dialogue with the Antique”, will begin in May. The exhibit runs until Sept. 30. With this event, Fiesole commemorates the three antifascist heroes while also paying homage to Giovanni Michelucci, one of the most important Florentine architects of all times, and Marcello Guasti, one of the most acclaimed Florentine sculptors of the postwar period, who died last January.

ith their layered, fragile, organized fabric and their primordial force, Tony Cragg’s monumental sculptures offer an unexpected, complex dialogue with the nature and beauty of the Boboli Gardens and the city of Florence. The exhibition Tony Cragg at Boboli Gardens, on display at the Boboli Gardens from May 5 to Oct. 27, presents 16 works by English contemporary sculptor Cragg made from 1997 to the present day. With their imposing and poetic presence Cragg’s sculptures accompany visitors on a journey of amazement and knowledge which provides a new interpretative key to both sculptures and their surrounding space. It is almost as if the unexpected plastic forms

on display suddenly revealed the energy and irrepressible underground force of the surrounding hills: familiar and comforting views that have been ‘disciplined’ by architects and gardeners over the last five centuries. The role that Tony Cragg gives to his sculptures is precisely this: the emerging of new meanings, dreams and languages from an incessant and restless exploration of matter and their relationship with the environment. “This is the first time that a main Italian museum has dedicated a monographic exhibition to Tony Cragg - said director of the Uffizi Galleries Museum Complex, Eike Schmidt, when presenting the exhibit at a recent press conference. “The Boboli Gardens, with their

natural wonders, works of ancient art and highly rational structure, are the perfect theatre for this exhibition. In fact, the theme of sculpture in the park, central to the artist’s poetics, necessarily includes forms inspired by nature and its mysterious power, created by Cragg to provoke a strong reaction in the observer, whether it be pure emotion or intellectual interpretation.” Born in Liverpool in 1949, since 1977 Cragg lives and works in Wuppertal, Germany, not far from the Skulpturenpark Waldfrieden, a lively exhibition center dedicated to contemporary sculpture created by Cragg himself in 2008. Active on the art scene since the late 1970s, Cragg has exhibited in many of the most important galleries, museums and parks around the world and has participated in major contemporary art exhibitions such as Documenta and the Venice Biennial. He also teaches at the Kunstakademie Düsseldorf and the Universität der Künste (UdK) in Berlin. He has received several prestigious awards and honors including the Turner Prize (1988), Shakespeare Prize (2001), and the Praemium Imperiale for Sculpture (2007).

Tony Cragg at Boboli Gardens Boboli Gardens Until Oct. 27

14 Florence News

NEWS

SUMMER EDITION www.florencenews.it

Il Ponte Presents Carlo Battaglia

he contemporary art gallery Il Ponte presents a solo exhibition of Carlo Battaglia’s paintings from May 17 to July 19. The exhibit showcases 15 works made between 1969 and 1979. Battaglia’s work from this decade represents the climax of the socalled “New Painting” movement, underscoring the distinctive characteristic of those Italian artists who found themselves in this field at the time. In a period when painting was considered too traditional, Battaglia and his contemporaries worked to find a new place for their medium in the changing art world. Based on an analysis of his artistic process and materials—paint, canvas, and frame—Battaglia focused his attention on the expressive potential of the medium itself. His art is aimed at creating the world in which he felt immersed. “His representation is not imitation: the second term is negative, the first constitutes the great tradition of painting. “All of his paint-

ings are always and only aimed at creating the world in which he felt immersed,” wrote art critic Marco Pelluzzo in his 2014 Carlo Battaglia. Catalogo Ragionato. After travelling around Europe to see German, French, and British contemporary artists at work, Battaglia made his way to America to see firsthand the art that captivated him. He arrived in Manhattan in 1967 and spent six months living and working with key artists of the New York School such as Mark Rothko, Ad Reinhart, and Robert Motherwell. These influences can be seen in his abstract paintings made in the late 1960s. In these largescale works, Battaglia uses a dark, muted palate and sharp angles that reflect the shapes and colors of the dense cityscape of New York, while also closely referencing Ad Reinhardt’s striking yet nuanced studies of abstract geometric forms. His paintings from this period show him playing with and beginning to question the distinction between

abstraction and figuration. At the 1970 Venice Biennale, Battaglia exhibited his Maree (“Tides”) series, formally introducing the theme that would come to dominate his oeuvre: the ocean. These early seascapes are long planes of variegated color that closely reference Rothko’s transcendent color field paintings that Battaglia saw in New York. Though his works of the 1970s and ‘80s can be read more easily as seascapes compared to his early Maree paintings, all of Battaglia’s work comes from a theory wherein abstraction and figuration are decided in the conception of a painting, rather than its execution: “an abstract image,” wrote Battaglia in 1976, “can be represented in exactly the same way as a natural image.” This lack of distinction, coming from his time with the Abstract Expressionists as well as his work within the Pittura Analitica movement, can be seen in his large paintings from the late 1980s, in which he uses color and expressive brushstrokes to manipulate the land and ocean.

Carlo Battaglia Until July 19 Galleria Il Ponte Via di Mezzo, 42/b 055 240617 ww.galleriailponte.com

Ten Commandments For Tourists

group of 50 local tour guides transcribed a series of rules for tourists in Florence, which hit the headlines of local media last month. The initiative, called “l’Armata pacifica” (literally, The Peaceful Army), came last year shortly after Mayor Dario Nardella took measures to prevent tourists from picnicking and camping in front of the city’s iconic churches by hosing down

their steps. Summer, perhaps due to the severe heat, is surely the period of the year in which tourists most frequently misbehave. We have thus decided to take inspiration from this idea and rearrange the ten rules into commandments. Respectful tourists should obey them strictly, as if they had in fact come from the mouth of the almighty Lord above.

Thou shalt not crowd around the street vendors. Thou shalt not feast barbarically by the churches, basilicas, or other sacred grounds. Thou shalt not abandon your masses of rubbish on the streets. Honor the sidewalks and streets with strolling, not with your luggage. Thou shalt not ask for canals in Florence, for thou shalt not find them. Honor the que for the taxi. Thou shalt not gratuitously indulge in selfies in front of Palazzo Vecchio or other monuments . Thou shalt not use the sidewalks as toilets or urinals. Thou shalt not use the fountains as a shower. Thou shalt not shout aggressively - even if intoxicated.

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Exhibit Tributes Araki

selection of 2,200 pictures by Japanese photographer Nobuyoshi Araki is on display at the Santa Maria della Scala museum in Siena until Sept. 30. The exhibit is a tribute to Araki’s entire artistic career and offers a quite complete overview of his endless, complex, and multi-faceted photographic production. It reflects the artist’s original, meditative, and exciting desire to con-

dense his experience as an artist and a human into one showcase. Some of the photographs have never been on display in Italy or Europe before. The Araki’s Paradise collection, which consists of photographs that Araki took using his own home as a set, was specially produced for this Siena exhibition. Among the series on display are the famous Satchin and his brother Mabo, portraying two kids who

happened to be Araki’s neighbours back in the 1960s; Subway of Love, a set of photographs taken in the Tokyo underground in the late 1970s; the 1980s album Araki’s Lovers, made of portraits of elegant Japanese ladies and gentlemen. Also on display are pictures taken in the first decade of the current century, such as those of the Tokyo Diary and a photographic tale of Japanese painter and engraver

Florence News 15

NEWS Katsushika Hokusai, made in 2017 and entitled Anniversary of Hokusai’s Death, Alongside the complete version of Araki’s Sentimental Journey (a 108 black-and-white photo account of his honeymoon with his wife Yoko), the exhibition also showcases the Italian debut of the series called Sentimental night in Kyoto; the album Amant d’Août dedicated to a model by the name of Komari; a series of photographs that Araki was commissioned for the 60th anniversary of the end of World War II; 20 diptychs portraying iconic architectural works in the Japanese capital; and finally, some female nudes from the album Tokyo Nude. The exhibition is completed by two recent series devoted to the artist’s native city – entitled respectively Tokyo Summer Story and Tokyo Autumn – and a video showing Araki

choosing the photos for the exhibition with exhibit curator Filippo Maggia.

Effetto Araki Santa Maria della Scala Museum Piazza del Duomo 1, Siena Until Sept. 30 Exhibition only: € 10 – concessions € 7 Exhibition + Museum: € 14 Exhibition + Museum + Museo Civico: € 20 Exhibition + Acropoli: € 25 Exhibition + Acropoli Plus: € 30 Open every day 10 a.m. - 7 p.m.

16 Florence News

HISTORY

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Remembering Ferragamo

Pioneering Air Conditioning

The air cooling system of the Medici at Pitti Palace

esearchers at the University of Florence have recently determined that Palazzo Pitti was equipped with an “air conditioning” system to make the sultry summer days more bearable for the Medici. The results of the study conducted by a team of of engineering and architecture experts of the University of Florence revealed that the fresh air coming from the Boboli Park, located behind the building, was channeled through a system of levels of pavement to a room

in the basement of the building equipped with special receipt nozzles. From here, the now chilled air was distributed through a network of trellises into the rooms above. Given a summer temperature of 35 degrees Celsius in the square in front of Palazzo Pitti, the temperature differential in the premises obtained with this system could be significant, amounting to about 10 degrees cooler than the outside temperature. Researchers also discovered that to strengthen cooling power, ice-cold water was stored in

the building to lower the temperature and humidity in the air. Although forms of cooling houses have existed since classical antiquity, the type of air conditioning discovered in the Pitti Palace is unique because is a domestic technology made possible by the presence of a cool garden right next to the building. According to the research team, similar examples can be found in the Custoza Venetian villas and mansions in Palermo from which the system of the Pitti Palace was inspired. Modern air conditioning as we understand it today was not developed until the late 19th century, and wasn’t popularized until the 20th century. Despite this, early forms of it can be traced back to ancient Rome, where aqueduct water was circulated through structural walls in order to cool them. To conduct the investigation, the researchers used models of the Pitti Palace, a wind tunnel, and computer simulations. Hot days in the summer were a problem even for the aristocratic families of the past. With Leonardo engaged in his flying experiments, the Medici had to solve the problem by themselves, and they did it just by opening a few windows and closing some doors. Could their ingenious methods be applied today and help save some energy and possibly some money too?

ITALIAN ARTISAN WORKMANSHIP Italian artisan workmanship

Italian artisan workmanship

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ugust 7 marks the 55th anniversary of the death of Florence’s world-famous fashion icon, Salvatore Ferragamo. Born into an impoverished family in 1898, Ferragamo created his first pair of shoes at the tender age of nine. He later became an apprentice to a local cobbler in his home town of Bonito in southern Italy and then an entrepreneur at the age of 14, opening a small shoe shop with a total number of six assistants working for him. Persuaded by his elder brother to accompany him to the United States, Ferragamo immigrated to Boston in 1914 at the age of 16. It wasn’t until the designer moved to Santa Barbara, California and finally to Hollywood that his success began. He met high-profile clientele and movie stars, who fell in love with his trademark shoes, and gained a reputation as the

‘shoemaker of dreams.’ With his remarkable talent and entrepreneurial skills, by 1919 Ferragamo had established one of the most famous fashion brands in the world. Upon his return to Italy, Ferragamo set up shop in Florence in Via Minnelli, where he copyrighted his luxury shoe brand. In 1929, he bought and converted Palazzo Spini Feroni into his headquarters. The Salvatore Ferragamo brand eventually expanded to include other luxury goods, such as bags, clothing and perfumes, consistently maintaining its standards of excellence and refinement. Ferragamo died in 1960 at the age of 62 in Pietrasanta, a small town in Tuscany. Ferragamo’s legacy is destined to last for many years to come, and is kept alive by the success of his family and the Salvatore Ferragamo Museum at Palazzo Spini Feroni.

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Florence News 17

• Pinocchio and Dante Museum • Official Pinocchio Shop • Inferno and Paradiso Experience • Bar and Restaurant with free Wi-Fi inside

Open every day 10 a.m. – 7 p.m. Get a €4 discount at the Collodi Pinocchio Park showing a museum ticket PINOCCHIO AND DANTE MUSEUM Via Ricasoli 44n (between the Dome and the Accademia Gallery) www.dantocchio.it

18 Florence News

CITY BEAT

Italian Brass Week July 21-28

Sunday, July 21 • 10 a.m. Fiesole Music School, Via delle Fontanelle 24 - Fiesole Wings to Talent International Context • 8 p.m. Maggio Musicale Fiorentino Theatre, Piazza Vittorio Gui 1, Florence Artists will perform for the first time Moon Love, a piece composed by Francesco Traversi for the 2019 IBW • 10:30 p.m. Buoneria, Via del Fosso Macinante 4 Firenze Moon Jazz (Massimo Calderai, piano; Marco Benedetti, contrabass; Stefano Rapicavoli, drums) IBW soloists will partake too Monday, July 22 All events begin at 9:30 p.m. • Santa Maria Novella Church, Piazza di Santa Maria Novella 18, Florence Genius Dialogues with Leonardo IBW Soloists (Ruben Simeo, trumpet; Omar Tomasoni, trumpet; Alain Trudel, trombone; Peter Moore, trombone; Jens Bjorn Larsen, tuba; Eric Terwilliger, horn;

Alliance Brass in Vinci Alliance Brass Quintet Music of the Stage and Scree Thursday, July 25 11 a.m.

Simone Ori, organ) Giubilaeum Trumpet Quartet Tuesday, July 23 (all events begin at 9:30 p.m.)

• Don Gnocchi Hospital, Via di Scandicci 269, Florence Armonia Apollinea Bayres Horns Concertango

• Bargello Museum, Via del Proconsolo 4, Florence Bargello in Brass IBW Soloists (Rex Richardson, trumpet; Eric Terwilliger, horn; Zoltan Kiss, trombone; Peter Moore, trombone) Orchestra da Camera Fiorentina (directed by Giuseppe Lanzetta)

• 12:30 p.m. Fiesole Music School, Via delle Fontanelle 24, Fiesole Musical Matinèe with IBW arists

Wednesday, July 24 (all events begin at 9:30 p.m.) • Bargello Museum, Via del Proconsolo 4, Florence Bargello in Brass IBW Soloists (Ruben Simeo, trumpet; Omar Tomasoni, trumpet; Alain Trudel, trombone) Orchestra da Camera Fiorentina (directed by Giuseppe Lanzetta) • Misericordia of Florence Churchyard, Piazza del duomo, Florence Cosmici Mosaici Musicali Bayres Horns Concertango • Santa Croce Church, Via Giorgio La Pira 1, Vinci

• 8:30 p.m. Piazzale Michelangelo – Florence GENIO International Prize of Music performance Alliance Brass Quintet • 9:30 p.m. Santa Croce Church, Via Giorgio La Pira 1, Vinci Bayres Horns in Vinci Friday, July 26 • 12:30 p.m. Fiesole Music School, Via delle Fontanelle 24, Fiesole Musical Matinèe with IBW arists • Birth house of Leonardo Da Vinci’s (Vinci) 5 p.m. Piazzale Michelangelo (Florence) 7 p.m. Santa Maria Novella Square (Florence) 9 p.m. 500 Brass Parade, In the footsteps

SUMMER EDITION www.florencenews.it of Leonardo World premiére • 9:30 p.m. Misericordia of Florence churchyard, Piazza del Duomo, Florence Cosmici Mosaici Musicali Alliance Brass Quintet Music of America • 10:30 p.m. Villa Vittoria, Viale Filippo Strozzi 2, Florence Vi.Vi. Leonardo in Jazz IBW Jazz House Band (Massimo Calderai, piano; Marco Benedetti, contrabass; Stefano Rapicavoli, drums) Saturday, July 27 • 12:30 p.m. Fiesole Music School, Via delle Fontanelle 24, Fiesole Musical Matinèe with IBW arists Saturday, July 27 • 9:30 p.m. San Miniato al Monte Abbey, Via delle Porte Sante 34, Florence Love in Rebus... Invenzioni Leonardiane in Jazz IBM Soloists (Andrea Tofanelli, trumpet; Arkady Shilkloper, horn; Giovanni Hoffer, horn; Zoltan Kiss, trombone; Alain Trudel, trombone) IBW Jazz House Band Sunday, July 28 • 10:30 a.m.

Careggi Hospital Auditorium, Largo G. Alessandro Brambilla 3, Florence Armonia Apollinea Alliance Brass Quintet Music of America • 12:30 p.m. Fiesole Music School, Via delle Fontanelle 24, Fiesole Musical Matinèe with IBW arists • 6:15 p.m. Società Canottieri of Florence, Lungarno degli Archibusieri, Florence Leonardo on the Boat IBW soloists and students will be performing • 9 p.m. Arengario of Palazzo Vecchio, Piazza della Signoria, Florence Final concert Brass for Leonardo da Vinci World Brass Ensemble with Andrea Tofanelli and Friends Directed by Luca Benucci

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Florence News 19

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Florence News 21

CITY BEAT

A Factory of Ideas: Fabbricato Viaggiatori

Pinocchio and Dante Multimedia museum experience

Now with live music, Dj set and first Tiki Bar in Florence

wo of the most excellent Florentine personalities are now the protagonists of a new museum. Located between the Dome and the Accademia Gallery, the Pinocchio and Dante Museum opened last June inside the Gerini Palace on Via Ricasoli. The museum has two exhibitionsthe Pinocchio exhibit and the Dante exhibition. The Pinocchio exhibit, perfect for kids of any age, is divided into three rooms that offer visitors a full immersion into Collodi’s celebrated fairytale. This part allows kids to live the adventures of Pinocchio as if they were real. In the other side of the palace the Dante exhibition, suitable for adults and teenagers alike, brings visitors through a journey that, beginning with the screams of the damned and the fires of hell, ends with the peaceful, celestial atmo-

sphere of the Paradiso. The museum, located on Via Ricasoli 44n, is open every day from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m., has a large bookstore, a Pinocchio official store, and a restaurant bar with free wifi. On the ground floor, exhibitions by contemporary artists are on display. The museum ticket also allows visitors to get a €4 discount at the Collodi Pinocchio Park near Pistoia.

Pinocchio and Dante Museum Open every day 10 a.m. – 7 p.m. Via Ricasoli 44n (between the Dome and the Accademia Gallery) www.dantocchio.it info@dantocchio.it

ocated right by Florence main train station, Fabbricato Viaggiatori has now a new outdoor space and will inaugurate the first Tiki Bar in Florence on June 19. Drinks and cocktails in the new Tiki Bar will be prepared by Nicolò Pedreschi, winner of the first Tuscan Cocktail Week last month. The name Fabbricato Viaggiatori – the bar is inside a historical building created in 1935 and designed by the Gruppo Toscano of architects among whom was the renowned Giovanni Michelucci, who created the Florence train station – recalls the concept of travelling. Fabbricato Viaggiatori is in fact a special space open to anyone that welcomes travellers to and from Florence while also helping introduce them to the city.

It has a restaurant, open all day long from 7 a.m. to 11 p.m., for breakfast, lunch and dinner, that serves food made with traditional Italian products but also opened to an ‘international taste’. The food served is made with seasonal, fresh, and organic and eco-sustainable ingredients. A wide selection of wines is also available as well as a cocktail bar and a coffee shop. The place is colorful and decorated with a variety of green plants, with a design enriched by a vintage feel, from furniture to lights. Fusing tradition and innovation, Fabbricato Viaggiatori also has a sort of American-style to the sophisticated waiting area for Florence’s main train station. It has free Wi-Fi connection, a selection

Fabbricato Viaggiatori Piazza della Stazione 50

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Florence News 23

CITY BEAT

Campaign Encourages Tourists to Respect Florence

The Three Tenors at Santo Stefano

he City of Florence has launched a campaign called #EnjoyRespectFirenze that promotes sustainable tourism to preserve the heritage of Florence by respecting the city and its inhabitants. Following are the main points of the campaign:

C. DE MELO

oasting an original Romanesque facade of green and white marble, the Santo Stefano Church now serves as an auditorium for musical and theatrical performances. The concert is inspired by the world-renowned ‘Three Tenors’ Luciano Pavarotti, Plácido Domingo and José Carreras. Standing atop Buontalenti’s stunning marmoreal balustrade of 1574 and accompanied by a chamber ensemble of mandolin, doublebass and grandpiano, Mattia Nebbiai, Claudio Sassetti, and Leonardo Sgroi dazzle audiences with their incredible voices. The excellent acoustics in Santo Stefano require no microphones. The three tenors perform the masterpieces which brought fame to

Italy all over the world, such as some of the arias from La Traviata, Rigoletto and Tosca, as well as some of the most famous Neapolitan traditional songs. The musical program includes several operatic pieces from Verdi, Puccini, Rossini, Brahms, and De Curtis. The singers are accompanied by the flawless tunes of a grand piano, mandolin, and a double bass. The three tenors exuded tremendous energy and playfulness on stage, making the audience giggle at times with their delightful humor. Their velvety voices kept a full house entranced for over an hour with each selected song showing off the full potential of their collective talent. One highlight was the aria, E lucevan le stelle from the opera TOSCA, written by Giacomo Puccini. The emotion and range of this performance was truly impressive.

• Remember you are not allowed to eat food, drink, or lie down on the street or staircases. If you wish to eat something or rest be sure to use proper benches and tables. • Don’t climb the monuments. • Vandalizing monuments, doors, or walls is a serious crime punishable by law. • It is forbidden to be drunk in public. • It is forbidden to litter. Please dispose of any garbage or recyclables in their proper containers. • It is forbidden to eat or drink on the steps of monuments and churches. • Don’t write on churches or works of art • Don’t swim in the fountains • In public places and establishments be sure to wear a shirt. Going shirtless or wearing a swimsuit is not considered enough coverage. • Don’t engage in any behavior that would endanger you or others. • In places of worship, short dresses, shorts, and tank tops generally aren’t allowed. If you plan on visiting any of Florence’s many churches, be sure to dress conservatively, making sure your clothing goes past your knees. • Beware of counterfeit goods. Just a few days ago I saw a scammer trying to sell a single watch on the street, claiming it was a Rolex. Always buy your goods from stores that are clearly marked. Abusive sellers are punishable by law, but you are too if you buy from them. • When it comes to your noise level, please be considerate, especially from midnight to 7 a.m. Don’t disturb the peace with excessive shouting or loud musical instruments. • If you need to relieve yourself, always use a public toilet. Urinating in public and exposing your private parts is strictly forbidden. • There are four information points in the city: Piazza Stazione, via Cavour, Bigallo (piazza Duomo) and at the airport. • In Florence there is fresh water available to the public. Be sure to carry a reusable water bottle.

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Il Supermercato... da Gustare e deGustare

Sapori & Dintorni is the new way to do the shopping: in the heart of Florence there is a place where Food, Culture and Territory meet. Get in and discover the Big Supermarket to test and taste! Inside you will find many typical products of the Italian food tradition. Buy your favorite product and taste it within the tasting area.

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THE BIG SUPERMARKETS ARE OPEN: • Monday - Saturday: from 08.30 am to 9.00 pm • Sunday: from 09.30 am to 9.00 pm

SUMMER EDITION www.florencenews.it

An Icon of Italian Style: The Vespa

t started with two men: an engineer and an entrepreneur. The engineer showed the entrepreneur his drawing, a two-wheeled image that resembled a vehicle, one fatter than a bicycle or motorcycle, but with small wheels. The engineer said to his boss: “Please, take a look at this uncomfortable and dirty thing.” The entrepreneur responded, “It looks like a Vespa!” (in the Italian language, vespa means wasp). This was the beginning of the Vespa, the vehicle that revolutionized the Italian transportation system and Italian culture forever. Shortly after that entrepreneur, Enrico Piaggio, saw the weird image, he filed for the patent of “a motor-

cycle with rationally placed parts and elements with a frame combining with mudguards and engine-cowling covering all working parts,” of which “the whole constitutes a rational, comfortable motorcycle offering protection from mud and dust without jeopardizing requirements of appearance and elegance.” Since 1946, 150 models of Vespas have been produced. They all have the same original concept drawn by the engineer, as not much has changed from the breakthrough original design. By the end of the 1950s, the production of Vespas quickly spread to foreign markets. The Vespa was

more than an Italian symbol of fun, freedom, youth, and imagination: it was also an international business. Its low running cost, ease of use, maneuverability, wide range of colors and customizations created its plethora for success. Cinema also played an important role in the worldwide success of the Vespa. In 1952, the Vespa made its Hollywood debut in the movie “Roman Holiday.” In this movie, Audrey Hepburn and Gregory Peck rides the scooter through the streets of Rome, transforming the Vespa into a worldwide cultural phenomenon. In those same years, celebrities such as Marlon Brando and Dean Martin were also wellknown Vespa lovers and drivers, contributing immensely to the creation of the scooter’s image. The Vespa was destined to appear in many other iconic movies, not just in the 1950s and 1960s, but also in later ones. Fellini, for example, ‘directed’ the Vespa in his 1960 masterpiece La Dolce Vita. There are multiple other iconic movies in which the most famous Italian scooter appears: Mauro Bolognini’s La Notte Brava, Nanni Moretti’s Dear Diary, and Sydney Pollack’s The Interpreter featuring Nicole Kidman. The elegance of the design is such that stylist Giorgio Armani himself recently contributed to a very special series of the scooter. Armani’s model – the Vespa 946 – is inspired by the first version of the scooter ever produced- it has a grey color that shadows to an almost green in particular light reflections with the Armani logo on the side, right above the headlight.

Florence News 25

TUSCANY EXPLORE THE CHIANTI HILLS ON A VESPA

HIGHLIGHTS • No experience required • DURATION: 6 hours, FROM 09:30 A.M. TO 02:30 P.M. • Tuscan meal accompanied by the finest local wines • An expert and knowledgeable tour leader will assist you during the whole trip INCLUDED • Roundtrip transportation by minivan to/from departure point • Third-party insurance for civil liability. You will be given the option to subscribe an additional insurance against vehicle damages • Wine and olive oil tasting. Guided tour of 2 wineries and cellars • Helmets. Minivan Support NOTES AND ADVICES • Comfortable shoes suggested • If you are not comfortable riding on your own you can ride with a tour guide • Valid driving license required (you do not need a motorcycle license). You have to be at least 18-year-old to drive and13-year-old to be a passenger

FROM €109

BOOK ON THE WEBSITE CIAOFLORENCE.IT AND GET A 10% DISCOUNT USING THE CODE FN10

26 Florence News

MUSIC

Roberto Bolle and Friends Saturday, July 13 Start time: 9:15 p.m.

Caetano Veloso Friday, July 19 Start time: 9:15 p.m.

Piovani directs Piovani Monday, July 15 Start time: 9:15 p.m.

Lorenna McKenitt Saturday, July 20 Start time: 9:15 p.m.

Francesco de Gregori and Orchestra Greatest Hits Live Tuesday, July 16 Start time: 9:15 p.m.

The Grand Concert of the Barrier Monday, July 22 Start time: 9:15 p.m.

Rock the Opera Wednesday, July 17 Start time: 9:15 p.m. Steve Hackett Thursday, July 18 Start time: 9:15p.m.

Perigee- One Shot Reunion Thursday, July 23 Start time: 9:15 p.m. Danilo Rea Concert at Dawin Wednesday, July 24 Start Time: 4:45 p.m.

Pancakes Ice Cream

Frozen Yogurt

Muffin Cakes

www.florencenews.it

Toto Friday, July 5 Start time: 9 p.m.

Giorgia Thursday, July 18 Start time: 8:50 p.m.

Calcutta a Lucca Saturday, July 6 Start time: 9:30 p.m.

Janelle Monáe Thursday, July 18 Start time: 8:50 p.m.

Elton John Sunday, July 7 Start time: 9 p.m.

Salmo and Måneskin Friday, July 19 Start time: 9 p.m.

Macklemore and Anastasio Tuesday, July 9 Start time: 8 p.m.

The Good the Bad and the Queen Saturday, July 20 Start time: 9:30 p.m.

Tears for Fears Wednesday, July 10 Start time: 9:30 p.m.

Gemitaiz and Madman Friday, July 26 Start time: 9:30 p.m.

New Order and Elbow Friday, July 12 Start time: 8:30 p.m.

Scorpions Saturday, July 27 Start time: 9:30 p.m.

Mark Knopfler Saturday, July 12 Start time: 9 p.m.

Sting Monday, July 29 Start time: 9:30 p.m.

Eros Ramazzotti Tuesday, July 16 Start time: 9:30 p.m.

For info on tickets and directions see www.summer-festival.com

Centrifuges

Coffee

SUMMER EDITION

Crepes Waffles

We'll see you in Piazza Gaetano Salvemini n°2 Firenze ( Between S. Pierino Arch and Post Office Via Verdi )

Black Stone Cherry + Ana Popovic + Eric Bibb & Staffan Astner + Lambstone + Filippo Margheri Friday July 5 Start time: 9 p.m. Robben Ford & Eric Gales Sunday July 7 Start time: 9 p.m. Noel Gallagher’s High Flying Birds Monday July 8 Start time: 9 p.m. Ben Harper & The Innocent Criminals Wednesday July 10 Start time: 9:30 p.m. For info on tickets and directions see www.pistoiablues.com/en

SUMMER EDITION www.florencenews.it

Florence News 27

Discover Chianti with us... Wine Tours • Cooking Class • Safari 4X4 • Bike Rental • Bike tours

IN CHIANTI

RADDA IN CHIANTI SIENA

BIKE

RENTAL • TOURS

MONDAY•Smoove MONDAY•YAB Smoove WEDNESDAY•UnYversal WEDNESDAY•Mucho Mas SATURDAY•YABber FRIDAY•Lovers & Friends SATURDAY•YABber Via dei Sassetti 5/r • 055 215160 • www.yab.it • yab.official@gmail.com Facebook:YAB -Official

SUMMER EDITION www.florencenews.it

Artists Wanted

member of Res Artis (the largest network of artist residency programs, numbering over 400 members drawn from more than 70 countries) and located into the restored historic complex of the Pieve di San Cresci overlooking the valley of Greve in Chianti halfway between Florence and Siena, La Macina di San Cresci is the best place for creation, presentation and documentation of contemporary art in all its forms. The relaxed atmosphere of the Chianti countryside, together with the splendid building from the 10th century, form the perfect combination for a full immersion into art. The program is running all yearround with no deadline. Residency applications are reviewed on a rolling basis and can be submitted at any time. Amongst the activities that artists can do at the Pieve di San Cresci

Florence News 29

CITY BEAT

Innovative Jewelry and Style

are open studio, workshops, film screening, lectures, visit local artists and craftsmen, excursions, Italian and cooking lessons. The staff of the residency works closely with their residents to facilitate knowledge and collaborative opportunities between artists, curators, local residents and other organizations. Artists-residents are provided well-equipped studios, housing, as well as opportunities for public engagement such as open studio, exhibitions, and workshops. Residents are also welcomed to bring their partner and children.

Discover the Cristian Fenzi shop

La Macina di San Cresci Pieve di San Cresci 1 Greve in Chianti www.chianticom.com

Organic Cotton Y

ou can get clothing made from organic wool at the MP shop located on via dei Pilastri 22r. Organic wool is not genetically modified, so it is more environmentally friendly. The growing process allows the soil to remain fertile, and it reduces the need for toxic fertilizers, making organic wool a good choice for the eco-conscious consumer.

ristian Fenzi is a stylist and designer who has a past as an engineer and who started his own brand in 2013 as the culmination of an artistic path begun in 1980 with artist Fabio Gianni. His team is made of two more people who work together with him in the shop located on the Lungarno Torrigiani, a few steps away from the Ponte Vecchio, and the company’s laboratory on Via de’ Bardi, in the same Oltrarno neighborhood of Florence as the shop. They are artist and designer Fabio Gianni and goldsmith designer Paolo Gianni.

Over the past three years, the company has extensively expanded. Cristian and Fabio’s artistic life did not follow the path of their families but their own passions. To design their lines of products, Cristian and Fabio get inspiration from the aesthetic and ironic sides of the animal world and the aesthetic of electronic circuits. Fun is definitely the leit-motiv of their collections, as jewels “must, first of all, amuse us since the very first moment when we begin producing them; consequently, they will do the same with the customers who wear them,”

says Cristian. Cristian and Fabio believe that the distinctive characteristics of their creativity are “non-conventionality” and the constant research of new, innovative solutions and ideas. These characteristics are at the basis of a new approach to micro-sculpture. The principal productive techniques used by Cristian and his team are the blue wax sculpture and the lost wax casting, the materials mostly used for his creations are silver, bronze, gold, as well as steel and aluminum. Noticeble is a jewel of his ‘Classic Dark Side’ line created by Fabio Gianni in 2010 and now on permanent display at the Museo Degli Argenti at the Pitti Palace. Cristian told us that there is one historical fact that more than any other has affected his profession: Ferdinando I de Medici’s 1593 decision to replace the butchery shops that were on the Ponte Vecchio with goldsmith shops. Ferdinando did not like the smell of meat. His decision had the effect to transform the streets near the bridge, which became home to many goldsmith’s workshops. If you enter the Cristian Fenzi shop on the Lungarno Torrigiani, you still can ‘smell’ what Tuscan jewelry production means. Ferdinando I de Medici would appreciate.

Cristian Fenzi Antigas e Co.

Lungarno Torrigiani 33b (near the Ponte Vecchio)

BREAKFAST COMBINATION One between:

Scrambled eggs with bacon Omelette with ham and cheese Eggs and bacon Sausage and beans with tomato sauce Croque Monsieur

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+ one between:

Brand new gym in the heart of Florence is now open. • Fully outfitted with the latest cardio & strength equipment from Technogym • Offering a wide array of classes ranging from Zumba to Pilates, every week • All-inclusive memberships with no sign-up fees • Special pricing for students • Friendly English-speaking staff • Free wi-fi

Pancakes Crepes French Toast Cake of the day + Freshly squeezed orange juice + Coffee or Cappuccino

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Lungarno Torrigiani |www.cristianfenzi.com Lungarno Torrigiani 33B 33B | www.cristianfenzi.com instagram @cristianfenziofficial instagram@cristianfenziofficial

The Small Via San Pier Maggiore 3 r (by the San Pierino arch)

30 Florence News

FOOD&WINE

Taste Wine with Pino In a renovated 700-year-old well

‘P

ozzo Divino’ is a witty play on words: literally meaning ‘divine well’, it also translates as ‘wine well’ when read as ‘Pozzo di Vino’. The ancient well is now the cellar that hosts Pozzo Divino’s wine tours. Dating back to 1312, the well was built to supply water through a vast system of underground tunnels and pipes to the prisoners of a local prison known as ‘The Stinche’ (now Teatro Verdi) that stretched as far as the Bargello. Pino bought the location in 2006 and restored it himself with the help of some friends. Despite its

restoration, Pino reveals that it was always his principal intention to maintain a tangible sense of history when stepping into the cellar. This is something he has undoubtedly achieved; the place is almost like a time-machine propelling you back a few centuries into a part of authentic medieval Florence – albeit in excellent condition. Pino imparts his knowledge while taking guests around the cellar, offering a range of Italian wines to sample with an appetizer of complementary regional cheeses, cuts of meats, bread, olive oil and balsamic vinegar.

Guests are offered a spectrum of Tuscan flavors to try, from a variety of the region’s renowned Chianti Classico to white wines that include Chardonnay, Sauvignon and Pinot Grigio. The wine-tasting ends with the most exclusive reds of the cellar: Bolgheri, Super Tuscan, Morellino and Montepulciano. Upon request, guests also enjoy a buffet lunch comprising fresh pasta, specialty Italian second courses, and “the best panini in the world” made by Pino himself. Pino boasts that 90 percent of the wines he holds are of Tuscan origin, and that his tours prove so popular that he often ships back boxes of the wine sampled to America in order to appease impressed customers. Those looking to take a taste of Tuscany back home can find comprehensive information on shipping zones and freight costs on the company’s website. Pozzo Divino’s wine tours can be organized for tourist groups, families and universities, and cost only €15 a head – which not only makes it an experience to enjoy over the festive season but also an ideal Christmas gift for lovers of Tuscany’s finest vintages.

Pozzo Divino From 15 Euro! Via Ghibellina, 144/r 055 24 66 907 Open from Monday to Saturday Wine-tasting on Sundays by appointment (minimum 10 people) www.pozzodivino.it

SUMMER EDITION www.florencenews.it

Dine with Dante

amed after Dante Alighieri’s The Divine Comedy, a homely, rustic taverna fittingly lies on Via dei Cimatori, only a few meters away from Dante’s house. The restaurant offers traditional dishes based on medieval recipes. Some are adapted and revisited for the modern age in a way that one maintains the omnipresent feeling of Florentine history and tradition – so much so that Dante himself could walk in and dine next to you. Others are as they were centuries ago. Traditional medieval-style dishes include homemade ribbon pasta with wild boar and mushroom sauce, roast shin of pork with new potatoes and seasonal vegetables, risotto inspired by medieval Tus-

can flavors, and tasting plates of assorted cheeses accompanied with fresh fruit and jams, including the taverna’s specialty hot red pepper jam. Also serving as a wine bar and pizzeria, the restaurant offers an eclectic selection of wines from its cellar, an outdoor summer terrace, and is fittingly decorated in a medieval style with armour and banners.

Taverna Divina Commedia Via dei Cimatori, 7r 055 21 53 69

SUMMER EDITION www.florencenews.it

Learn About the Beer Business

A few words with Alexey Kozmin, director of the European office of Harat’s, the international Irish pub chain Q: Where and when did Harats pub chains begin?

Q: What are the common characteristics of Harat’s pubs?

A: We began in Russia ten years ago, although Harat’s is an 100% Irish brand. Now, we have about 75 pubs: one in each of the major Russian cities, a few others in European countries, and one in Miami, in the United States.

A: They have the same standards, menu and style. They are places for entertainment with live music and a good assortment of draft beers. Each pub has at least 16 different types of draft beer, mostly Irish, as well as craft and bottled beers. An important part of our policy is that we have multiple beer suppliers in order to have a wide assortment of tap beers. In Florence, for example, we have three suppliers.

Q: What are the main characteristics of Harat’s pubs? A: I would say a friendly atmosphere, a wide variety of draft beers, and a cultural consumption of alcohol. Q: What is Harat’s best known for? A: Our traditional Irish standards. We are part of the Irish Hospitality Association and Irish Pubs Global Organization Association, which both promote high traditional Irish standards. Q: Where are you planning on opening more pubs? A: In Italy, we are planning on opening a pub in Milan and one in Rome soon. Around the world, we are considering locations such as Amsterdam, Lisbon, and countries

such as Slovenia, Holland, Portugal and Spain. Most of our pubs are franchised, although some of the pubs are property of the company. We do this because we want to motivate our franchisers and outside investors in countries without pubs, that’s why we invest our own capital. We did this in Croatia for example.

Florence News 31

FOOD&WINE Q: Why did you decide to open a pub in Florence? A: Because we have partners here and is a beautiful city with a large population of foreigners including students and tourists. It is a good test location for us in order to expand in Italy and Europe. This was our first experience in Italy, we need to understand the characteristics of the beer market in this country in order to do well in the future. Q: How will Harat’s bring Irish culture to Florence? A: Alongside some of the most traditional Irish beers, we will offer have darts and chess tournaments for entertainment. We expect Florentines to feel as if they were in Ireland while at Harat’s.

Q: Why are there a lot more Harat’s pubs in Eastern Europe? A: It is easier to open new pubs in Eastern Europe and is impossible to open new pubs in many central cities of Western Europe because of the lack of licenses available. There is a shortage of licenses in Italy, Spain, Portugal, and Amsterdam. You have to buy and replace previous bar locations with beer licenses. This process is very difficult, it can take years.

Gluten Free

ating out can become an unpleasant experience for those who suffer from food allergies. One of the most common food allergies is celiac disease-the inability to eat food with gluten.Thanks to the commitment of its owners, who have attended the courses organized by the Associazione Italiana Celiachia (the Italian Association specialized in celiac diseases), alongside a traditional menu, the restaurant Trattoria Da Garibardi offers a special gluten free menu with pasta, bread, pizza, as well as many other dishes. The restaurant has a very large kitchen and special tools that allow to prepare gluten free food without any danger of contamination.Thanks to this special background and commitment, the typical, tasty Tuscan cuisine is now accessible even to those who suffer from celiac disease.

Trattoria Da Garibardi Piazza del Mercato Centrale 38/r Tel.: + 39 055 212267 www.garibardi.it

Since 1986

WINE ON TAP IN SANTO SPIRITO Bring your bottles and fill them directly from the barrels of Il Santo Vino, starting at less than €1.50. Patrons can choose from a gamut of Italian wines alongside selected local specialty and organic products

Opening hours: Tuesday to Sunday: 10 a.m.–2 p.m.; 5–9 p.m. Borgo Tegolaio, 46/r Tel. 055 53 87 122 , 345 90 93 425 www.ilsantovino.it Facebook: Il Santo Vino

THE FRUIT AND VEGETABLES MARKET OF FLORENCE Piazza San Jacopino 23R (Novoli Area, near the University of Florence, Tramway Line 2 from the train station, Belfiore stop)

SPECIALTIES Typical Tuscan Grill Handmade Pasta

Via C. Battisti 9 50022 Greve in Chianti 0558544802 055 853 734 www.enoristorantegallonero.it

32 Florence News

TUSCANY

A Journey Through Human Cruelty

he Torture and Death Penalty Museum displays more than 100 tools designed to torture and kill. Some of these tools are extremely rare, dating to the sixteenth, seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. They include the notorious ‘iron maiden,’ the guillotine, rack, torture chair and the chastity belt. Also on display are lesser-known sophisticated devices, such as the ‘heretic’s fork,’ the ‘noisemaker’s fife,’ the ‘Spanish spider’, and flaying instruments.

Via San Giovanni, 82 & 125 San Gimignano Open daily: 10 a.m.-8 p.m. 0577-940526, 055-940151 Tickets: Full €10 Concessions: €7; Groups: €5 www.museodellatortura.it

SUMMER EDITION www.florencenews.it

Helmut Newton’s Photography

Galleria Gagliardi Presents Porzionato

he Galleria d’Arte Moderna e Contemporanea in San Gimignano presents the exhibition Helmut Newton. San Gimignano until Sept. 1. The exhibit showcases 60 photographs that account for Newton’s art from the beginning of his career in the 1970s until the end of the 1990s. The oldest photograph, a portrait of Andy Wharol made for the magazine Vogue, dates to 1974. The most recent, a Leni’s Riefenstahl’s portrait, was made in 2000. Among the portraits of famous personalities on display are those of Gianni Agnelli (1997), Catherine Deneuve (1976), Anita Ekberg (1988), Claudia Schiffer (1992), and Gianfranco Ferrè (1996). A high-fashion photographer born on Oct. 31, 1920 in Berlin, Germany, Helmut Newton’s subversive approach to subject matter brought an edge to his editorial spreads. Underlying his bold images is a decadence and cruelty woven into complex stories of sex and power. It is this quality to his art that endures and has left its mark on the history of fashion photography. “There must be a certain look of availability in the women I photograph; I think the woman who gives the appearance of being available is sexually much more exciting than a woman who’s com-

pletely distant. This sense of availability I find erotic,” Newton said of his models. Due to his Jewish heritage, Newton had to flee his home country during the Nazi rise to power. In the 1940s, he settled in Australia, where he set up a studio. Throughout his career, he photographed models such as Cindy Crawford and Charlotte Rampling for several well-known magazines, including Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, Playboy, and Elle.

Helmut Newton Galleria d’Arte Moderna e Contemporanea Via Folgore 11, San Gimignano Open from 10 a.m. to 7:30 p.m. Until Sept. 1 Entrance €9 (reduced €7) Sangimignanomusei.it

figurative artist with a preference for oil painting on large canvases, Silvio Porzionato has exhibited at Galleria Gagliardi in San Gimignano since 2015. Although ordinary people, his subjects are depicted in statuary close-ups that make the viewer forget the ‘private dimension’ that is typical in a portrait. At the same time, these subjects become icons of mankind. Porzionato recently won the Saluzzo Art critics award and realized a permanent work for the Museo di Arte Urbano of Turin. In 2011, he was selected for the 54th Ven-

ice Arts. He has exhibited in major cities all over the world including Hong Kong, San Francisco, Miami, Chicago, London and Istanbul. Founded by Stefano Gagliardi in 1991, the Galleria Gagliardi today bears no resemblance to the original building, apart from a section of the floor made up of oak boards that cover a hole that once enabled repairs to the underside of cars and machinery. Created by the previous owner, Dino Conforti, this work of art was left in his memory. Since 1991, the exhibition area has been extended considerably, and the gallery has become a cultural reference for the promotion and sale of works of contemporary art. Every work is chosen from the studios of artists who constantly experiment new solutions.

Silvio Porzionato Galleria Gagliardi Via San Giovanni 57 San Gimignano Open every day until 7:30 p.m. galleriagagliardi.com

WINE TASTINGS IN SAN GIMIGNANO

THE BAR DELL’ORSO IS RENOWNED FOR ITS CURED MEATS, CHEESES AND PRESERVES IN OIL

Via Cassia Nord, 23, 53035 Monteriggioni (Siena) 0577 305074

Via di Racciano 10 - 53037 San Gimignano 334/6399484 • 0577/943090 www.palagetto.it

SUMMER EDITION www.florencenews.it

Florence News 33

TUSCANY

Race for Glory

DAY TOUR FROM FLORENCE TO SIENA, SAN GIMIGNANO, MONTERIGGIONI & CHIANTI WITH WINE TASTING

Palio returns Aug.16

wice a year, on July 2 and Aug. 16, Siena’s bowl-shaped Piazza del Campo is covered with a thick layer of dirt for the city’s most important event of the year: il Palio. Since the first Palio in 1656, just one race was initially held each year on July 2, named Il Palio di Provenzano, in honor of the Madonna of Provenzano. The second, on Aug. 16, began in 1701 and was named Il Palio dell'Assunta, in honor of the Assumption of Mary. Coinciding with the Feast of the Assumption, it is assumed that this second palio was probably introduced spontaneously as part of the celebration of feast. Of the original 59, there are 17 contrade still in existence today; of these, only 10 are chosen to race in each year’s Palio. The seven contrade that do not take part in the previous year are automatically included, and three more are chosen by draw. Each contrada’s participant enters the square around 3:30 p.m., but the main processional does not start until nearly 5 p.m., when a pageant of flag-throwers bearing the colors and symbols of their districts perform in the piazza. Cheating is commonplace since the race has very few rules: jockeys can pull, push and hit both the horses and each other, and use their whips on other competitors

and their horses. Il Palio is won not by the jockey, but by the horse who represents his contrada, so a horse can win without its rider if it’s the first to cross the line. The loser of the race is considered to be the contrada whose horse came second, not last. The order of the line-up is decided by lot immediately before the race, and only nine of the 10 contrade initially enter the space between the two ropes that constitutes the starting line: the 10th, called the rincorsa, waits outside, giving him yet another chance to cheat. The front rope is only dropped to start the race once the rincorsa enters the

space; and as deals have invariably been made between contrade and jockeys to affect when he enters, this process can take some time, as the rincorsa waits for a particular horse to be well or badly placed. After a rapid and intense three laps around the Campo the race is over, and the celebrations, or lamentations, begin. The winning contrada is awarded the prestigious prize of a banner, called the palio or drappellone, which is thought to bring great luck to the district that wins it, and is newly designed each year by a local artist for the July Palio, or an internationally recognized artist for the August Palio.

A CORNER OF PARADISE BETWEEN VOLTERRA AND S. GIMIGNANO Restaurant Zafferano by Casanova di Pescille

THE FARMHOUSE • BED AND BREAKFAST • RESTAURANT Loc. Pescille, 53037 San Gimignano (Siena) 0577 941902 • pescille@casanovadipescille.com www.casanovadipescille.com

HIGHLIGHTS • Let us take you straight to the blooming heart of Tuscany, discovering the medieval gems of Monteriggioni, San Gimignano and Siena • An expert and knowledgeable tour leader will assist you during the whole tri • Journey by fully-fitted GT Coach • Expert multi-language escort • Siena tour with a professional guide • Visit of San Gimignano and Monteriggioni • Light lunch in a cozy restaurant in Siena • Tasting of traditional pastries • Visit to a rustic wine estate • Sampling of wines, extra-virgin olive oil and regional products • Please note that the given order of the visits may change • Comfortable shoes suggested

FROM €63

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COOKING CLASSES, PIZZERIA AND TYPICAL TUSCAN RESTAURANT IN THE HEART OF TUSCANY

OPEN ALL DAY LONG La Cantina - piazza Trento, 3 - Greve in Chianti www.pizzerialacantina.it

34 Florence News

TUSCANY

300 Years of Chianti

A guide to understand Chianti Wine

Since 1716, Chianti has escalated in power and prestige to become one of the best types of wine produced in the world. Or perhaps, the best, at least according to most Tuscans still today. Following is a guide to understand the distinctions between the various Chianti.

Chianti

hree hundred years ago Cosimo III, Grand Duke of Tuscany, issued a decree which stated that Chianti wine could only be that produced in Chianti, the region between Florence and Siena. By that day, the attempts of rival producers to imitate Chianti and even use its label had already been too many: something had to be done. That something was creating the first legally enforceable wine appellation. Over the centuries, Tuscany’s land and climate

had combined with methods of production to create the best quality of wine. In no place other than Chianti could such a good wine be produced. And for this reason, the Medici gave Chianti the label that this wine bears to this day. The decree defined the 175.000 acres of what still today makes up Chianti Classico, the area of wine pilgrims that today produces some 35 million bottles of wine per year, 80% of which exported all over the world.

Bottles simply labeled as Chianti are made from a mix of grapes from several regions in the Chianti region. The main difference with generic Chianti and the rest, is that the minimum percentage of Sangiovese allowed is 75%, with the rules permitting white grapes to be blended in. Adding white grapes to a red wine isn’t as crazy as you might think! The French have been adding Viognier to their Syrah in the Rhone region of France for decades. The reason they do so is to soften the tannin in the Syrah, and to add what they call “aromatic complexity”. The addition of white grapes into the Sangiovese mix however, is less about romance and more about cutting costs. As with all Chianti’s, there are some minimum rules set, i.e. the minimum alcohol level in regular Chianti is 11.5%, and grape harvest yields are “restricted” to 4 tons per acre.

Chianti Classico

The Chianti Classico is central to the region and arguably the most famous. In 1996 it was awarded DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita) status, in an effort to raise its perceived quality. All Italian DOCG wines are

SUMMER EDITION www.florencenews.it actually tasted and analyzed in a lab in order to meet government approval. This procedure is kind of like SAT exams for wine. If the wine passes, it will receive an individually numbered governmental seal across the cap or cork. Chianti Classico bears a black rooster on the neck of the bottle. This is a conglomeration of Chianti producers whom have setup the Consorzio Chianti Classico, in a bid to improve the quality and reputation of the region. The minimum percentage of Sangiovese allowed in Chianti Classico is 80%, with only red grapes permitted to make up the rest of the blend. Producers can of course choose to make their wine up to 100% Sangiovese, but this is an exception. The alcohol content must be at least 12%, and the wine must spend at least 12 months aging in oak barrels. The Chianti Classico region covers an area of around 100 square miles, and the grape harvest is restricted to no more than 3 tons per acre.

Chianti Riserva / Classico Riserva

If you guessed that Riserva is Italian for Reserve you would be correct! Riserva on a bottle of Chianti is your first clue that the bottle of Chianti you’re holding, stands head and shoulders above the rest. Riserva is a term that can be applied not just to Chianti, but to plenty of other Italian wines such as Brunello and Barolo. Of course, just to make things difficult, it has various meanings, but Riserva on a Chianti just means that the wine spends a minimum of two years (in oak) and three months (in the bottle) aging. The alcohol content must also be at least 12.5%. Chianti Riserva is also a great candidate for additional bottle aging, depending on the producer and vintage.

Vin Santo

Vin Santo (literally meaning “holy wine”) is a style of Italian wine dessert typical of Tuscany. Vin Santo wines are often made from white grape varieties such as Trebbiano and Malvasia, though Sangiovese may be used to produce a rosè style known as “Occhio di Pernice” or eye of the partridge. Vin Santo is described as a straw wine since is often produced by drying the freshly harvested grapes on straw mats in a warm and well ventilated area of the house. However several producers dry the grapes by hanging on racks indoors. Though technically a dessert wine, the wines can vary in sweetness levels from bone dry (like a Fino Sherry) to extremely sweet.

THE LARGEST ENOTECA IN TUSCANY WINE & TYPICAL TUSCAN PRODUCTS INTERNATIONAL SHIPPING

Piazza Matteotti 18, Greve in Chianti (FI) 055853631 • chianticlassicoshop@gmail.com

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Discover Colle Val d’Elsa San Gimignano Saffron Ravioli A Recipe by Casanova di Pescille For pasta: 450 grams of flour, 150 gr egg yolks, 150 gr tomato concentrate 1 cup of extra virgin olive oil from Tuscany, 1 pinch of salt For the stuffing 500 gr sheep’s cottage cheese, 200 gr fresh spinach bacon It sucks enough, Enough nutmeg, 50 gr of Parmesan cheese

For pecorino fondue 200 gr mature pecorino cheese, 200 gr fresh cream 0,20 gr Saffron of San Gimignano Method For pasta: knead flour, egg rises, tomato concentrate, oil and salt in a planetary hook. Once ready to rest for about 30 minutes. With the help of a matematello spread the compound in rectangles. For filling: thoroughly crush the spinach and combine with the previously privately-owned ricotta of whey, then add all the other ingredients and mix the compound Once the sheet is laid out, form filling pans and close them by taking care to remove the air. For the fondue: cut the pecorino to cubes and put it in a saucepan with cream and saffron, let it soften for a few hours, then put everything to bake to bath Maria until the cheese is loose. Cook the ravioli in plenty of salted water and season with the cheese fondue www.casanovadipescille.com

ts name means “Hill of Elsa Valley”, where “Elsa” is the name of the river which crosses it. Today, Colle di Val d’Elsa is internationally renowned for the production of crystal glassware and art (15% of world production), largely produced in the industrial lower town. The area was settled by man in the 4th millennium BC, but the first mentions of the city are from the 9th century AD. In 1269 it was the place of a famous battle during the wars of Guelphs and Ghibellines. In 1479 it was besieged by Neapolitan troops. From the 14th century on, it was a possession of Florence and the Grand Duchy of Tuscany until the unification of Italy in 1860. In the 20th century it became

an important industrial center. During World War II it was bombed by Allied aircraft. The oldest part of the town is the “colle alta”, the higher part, with a well preserved medieval center. The town developed along the river from the 11th century onwards, building an artificial canal to power various industrial activities, such as wheat mills and paper factories. The city is also famous for being the birthplace of sculptor and architect Arnolfo di Cambio.

To book a trip to Colle Val d’Elsa: www.spreadyourwings.it

FREE WINE TASTINGS IN COLLE VAL D’ELSA

ENOTECA IL SALOTTO DOCG WINES • OIL • GRAPPA • CANTUCCI DI PRATO TYPICAL TUSCAN CAKES

Via Gracco del Secco, 31, 53034 - Colle di Val d’Elsa (SI) 0577926983 • www.enotecailsalotto.com

Meet Vernaccia

ante Aligheri, Giovanni Boccaccio, Pope Martin IV, Lorenzo the Magnificent, Michelangelo, just to name a few of the greats that praised the most famous wine produced in San Gimignano. A delicious white wine, that is even referenced in Dante’s legendary “Divine Comedy.” First mentioned in tax documents from 1276, Vernaccia is not only one of Italy’s most esteemed wines, but also one of its oldest. The wine boasts a bold straw-yellow color and a flavor that delicately combines floral and fruity. Perfectly suited for fish and white meats in particular, Vernaccia can be enjoyed even more when combined with complimenting cuisine.

SUMMER EDITION www.florencenews.it

Gelato Classes with a World Champion

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Chianti Ultra Trail

T F

ormer Gelato World Champion, Sergio Dondoli, offers gelato classes for adults and kids alike in his hometown of San Gimignano, in the very heart of Tuscany. Gelato was invented in this region thanks to the famous Florentine architect Bernardo Buontalenti, who in 1500 amazed the Medici family with gelato made from fruit and zabaione before Caterina deâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Medici, who was married to King Henry II. He introduced this precious Florentine dessert to the Royal French Court. From here, gelato spread across all of Europe.

Dondoli opened his famous Gelateria di Piazza in San Gimignano in 1992. In 2011, his Gelateria was the only Gelato-shop mentioned by Lonely Planet among the ten â&#x20AC;&#x153;Best Gourmet Places in the World.â&#x20AC;? In his career as a gelato-maker Dondoli has earned many prestigious awards, including the Master of Art & Craft Living National Treasure Award in 2016. Since last year, he offered his knowledge and creative energy to whoever, from all over the world, is willing to learn the secrets of preparing real Gelato.

Cooking Classes In Tavola aims to spread the rich food and wine culinary traditions of Italy and the Tuscany region through an incredible variety of dishes and recipes to all interested in learning the secrets behind the traditional Italian kitchen. With this intent to promote their knowledge, In Tavola organizes several opportunities for professionals and beginners to participate in cooking and baking lessons with the guidance of professional Chefs in an individual or group setting.

Via dei Velluti, 18/20r 055 217672 www.intavola.org

Each class consists of an introduction to Gelato History and to its ingredients. It follows the preparation of a Fiordilatte Gelato made with raw milk and seasonal fruit. The best part of these classes is the end, when groups can eat the gelato they prepared. Via del Castello 15 San Gimignano www.dondoligelatoclass.com +39 393 5448969

he Chianti Ultra Trial race is returning next year March 20-22. Started in 2018, this race through the Chianti vineyards combines passion and sport with environment and history. The 2020 race will have a few new features. Runners will still have the option of three routes, all of which starting and ending in Radda in Chianti. The longer route will have a new rest place at Castello di Albola. Participants will run through the fantastic vineyard of this estate, located on the highest hills of the Chianti Classico region, where some of the most famous wines in the world are produced. Although shorter, the intermediate route will be as demanding as the first one. It will consist of 42

kilometers, thus becoming a marathon. Even in this case, participants will run through Vertine, one the best preserved villages of the Chianti region in terms of military architecture. Then, they will descend from the San Michele mountain to the small village of Volpaia. The third race, 15-kilometer long, is not competitive and will pass through places usually not easily accessible to people. For more information check the website chiantiultratrail.com/en.

38 Florence News

TUSCANY

Escape the Florentine Heat

SUMMER EDITION www.florencenews.it stop ‘Ghirlandaio’. Address: Via Micheli Information: 055 27 57 402

from train station S.Maria Novella to bus stop Gioia Address: Via Federigo Stibbert, 26 Info: www.museostibbert.it/en or call 055 47 55 20

Cascine Park

Giardino Torrigiani (Torrigiani Garden)

A guide to the shady spots in Florence

In the summer, Florence is always the hottest city in Italy- even hotter than the cities in the South. Why? The answer is simple: the humidity of the city makes the temperature feel hotter to the extent that sometimes the local authorities advise seniors and children to remain inside as much as possible, possibly with air conditioning or a fan. What can those who prefer to stay outdoors, even in the terrible Florentine summer days, do then? Maybe this short guide of the shady spots can be useful.

Piazzale Michelangelo The perfect place for a panoramic view of the city, especially great for sunsets. Transportation: Take bus line 12 or 13 from the Santa Maria Novella station.

Opening hours: Every day from 9 a.m. until sunset.station.

Giardino dell’Orticoltura Built in 1879 by Giacomo Roster for the Tuscan Horticultural Society. Transportation: Take bus line 2 from Santa Maria Novella station. Address: Via Vittorio Emanuele II, 4 Information: 055 20 06 62 37 (Tue afternoon or Fri morning)

Bardini Gardens

Giardino delle Rose (Rose Garden) A green terrace with different sort of roses from all around world below Piazzale Michelangelo, overlooking the historic center of the city. Transportation: Take bus line 12 or 13 from S.M.N station Address: Viale Giuseppe Poggi 2 (near Piazza Michelangelo)

On the hills near Piazza Michelangelo is one of Florence’s best kept secrets. Visitors will see camellias, viburnum, hydrangeas, glycines and rose trees of various species. Full ticket: €10 Address: Costa San Giorgio, 2 Information: 055 200 66 206

Botanical Gardens Giardino dei Semplici Established by Cosimo dei Medici in 1545, this is one of the oldest parks in the world. It is currently maintained by the University of Florence and boasts a collection of carnivorous plants. Transportation: Take bus line 14 from Santa Maria Novella to bus

A daytime hotspot for outdoor activities, much loved by Florentines. Every Tuesday the park hosts the city’s largest open-air market, with a very good offers on local specialties such as cheese, vegetables and honey. Transportation: Take the tram line from the Santa Maria Novella station to the Cascine stop

Frederick Stibbert Villa Transformed from a simple Italian park to a romantic English garden by Giuseppe Poggi, this outdoor space features temples, rock caves, fountains and a mysterious Egyptian temple. Entrance to the garden is free; closed only on Thursdays. Transportation: Take bus line 4

The widest privately owned garden in the city boundaries within Europe. The land was inherited by Marquis Pietro Torrigiani in the early 19 th century. He transformed the park into the ‘english style’ as fashion of the time. The garden still known as a botanical garden with great wealth of plant and tree from all around the world. It can be visited if one of the owners will accompany the visitors during their tours. Transportation: Take the bus line 11 from Piazza San Marco to bus stop ‘Campuccio’. Adress:Via dei Serragli 144 Information: www.giardinotorrigiani.it or call 055-224527

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A Port for All Musicians

he novelty at Porto di Mare this summer is Jam sessions on Tuesdays. The club and restaruant offers any variery of music throughout the whole week. The smooth sounds of a saxophone and the vibrant roar of the trumpet will echo in the club as it opens up to jazz music. Porto di Mare – Eskimo has had a variety of acts in the past,

and is one of the most renowned places to enjoy live music in Florence. Last year, alongside famous jazz musicians from all over the world Porto di Mare hosted the initial rounds of the Arezzo Wave contest, one of the most famous Italian music festivals. The venue will be a part of the circuit where musicians compete with each other for a spot in Arezzo. Porto

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LEISURE

Tuscany on Horseback

HIGHLIGHTS • No experience required • DURATION: 6 hours • Tuscan meal accompanied by the finest local wines • An expert and knowledgeable tour leader will assist you during the whole trip

di Mare’s focus on live music and cultural exchange is one that the man who started the club, Francesco Cofone, holds close to his heart. “We never play anything recorded here,” he says with a smile. The method of bridging cultures at Porto di Mare is just getting out an instrument and beginning to play. “I’d be keen to talk to anyone who

is interested in playing and sharing their music with us,” Francesco says. Every Tuesday the club hosts an open-mic night where any artist can truly go out and share their music. Porto di Mare – Eskimo is located on the corner of Via Pisana and Via del Ponte Sospeso, open for lunch at 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. and with music in the evening from 7 p.m. to 2 a.m.

INCLUDED • Transportation IN/OUT town by minibus • Orientation horse riding lesson • Approximately 1.50-hour relaxing horse ride through the Chianti countryside • Helmets • Wine and olive oil tasting • Guided visit to a boutique winery • Guided visit to an olive oil mill and olive oil tasting

he tour offered by Ciao Florence is an adventure through the lush vineyards, native woods, olive groves and rolling hills of Chianti, with a collection of breathtaking and unforgettable views in the most wonderful and romantic way: on horseback. No prior experience is needed. Before the ride, you will be given a lesson by a trained guide to become better acquainted with your

horse. After the ride, you will enjoy a Tuscan meal washed down with Chianti wine and an oil tasting. If you do not want to ride a horse, you can still come and enjoy the tour with a 10% discount. So, while your friends go on the horse ride you can enjoy snacks, wine and a nice walk around a traditional Tuscan farm. If you have never horse-whispered before, then let horses whisper to you.

NOTES AND ADVICES • Long-leave pants and sports shoes are required (no flipflops!) • Horses can bear up to 220 lbs (100 kg) • Not suitable for kids under 14

FROM €139

BOOK ON THE WEBSITE CIAOFLORENCE.IT AND GET A 10% DISCOUNT USING THE CODE FN10

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Via dei Pandolfini, 26r • 347 381 8294

Via dei Boni 5r Via dei Boni 5r Borgo Croce 2r 334 la 7007714 www.leftluggageflorence.com leftluggageflorence.com

VALIGERIA GAZZARRINI Via Porta Rossa, 71-73R - Firenze, Italy Tel. +39 055 212747 www.valigeriagazzarrini.com

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