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A Room for Leonardo
lorence News is distributed F throughout Florence in all key reference points for the English-
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OCTOBER www.florencenews.it
Mona Lisa Had Thyroid Problem, Researchers Say
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF: Lorenzo Picchi EDITORS: Grace Gelep, Julia Atkins, Singdhi Sokpo GR APHIC & L AYOUT DESIGN: Narine Nalbandyan, Ekaterina Chebotareva CONTRIBUTORS: Christine De Melo, Thomas Ricciotti, Grace Gelep, Julia Atkins, Singdhi Sokpo, Elizabeth Monroy REGISTERED AT THE TRIBUNAL OF FLORENCE N. 6008, ON 9/12/2015. PUBLISHER: IAF PRINT: Rotostampa SRL, Florence
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he ‘revolution’ of the Uffizi Gallery continued at the beginning of this summer as three of Leonardo da Vinci’s greatest masterpieces, previously housed in separate rooms, are now on display together in a room dedicated exclusively to Leonardo. The three paintings – the recently restored Adoration of the Magi, The Annunciation, and The Baptism of Christ (which Leonardo painted together with Verrocchio) – are now housed in one same room to bring out “the fullness of the forms that are so typical of Leonardo’s style,” said the great promoter of this revolution, Uffizi director Eike Schmidt, at the inauguration of the new arrangement. The room dedicated to Leonardo completes a triptych highlight-
ing the museum most important works, together with two other arrangements, one with Michelangelo’s Doni Tondo and the masterworks of Raphael, and the eightroom section dedicated to the works of Caravaggio. Schmidt also said the next development will be this coming fall with the opening of new rooms dedicated to 16th-century Venetian artists including Giorgione, Tintoretto, Tiziano, Bernardo Licinio, and others. In October, Leonardo will once again be featured in celebrations for the 500th anniversary of his death, for which the Uffizi will open an exhibition showing the Codex Leicester, a collection of scientific writings by Da Vinci, on loan from Bill Gates.
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he Mona Lisa’s yellow skin, thinning hair and possible goitre on her neck were due to model Lisa Gherardini’s thyroid problems. The two researchers – Mandeep Mehra from the Brigham and Women’s Hospital and Hilary Campbell from University of California – concluded that that clinical hypothyroidism is a more likely diagnosis than previous hypotheses including a lipid disorder and heart disease. “The enigma of the Mona Lisa can be resolved by a simple medical diagnosis of a hypothyroidism-related illness; the allure of the imperfections of disease that give this masterpiece its mysterious reality and charm, ” Mehra said. “The diet of Italians during the Renaissance was lacking in iodine, and resulting goiters (swollen thy-
roid gland) were commonly depicted in paintings and sculptures of the era; additionally, Lisa Gherardini gave birth shortly before sitting for the portrait, which indicates the possibility of peripartum thyroiditis (inflammation of the thyroid after pregnancy).” The two experts said that had Lisa Gherardini suffered from heart disease and a lipid disorder she would have died earlier, considering how treatments of this kind were in the 16th century. Painted between 1503 and 1506 (although it is possible that Leonardo continued working on it for until 1517, the Mona Lisa is one of the most valuable paintings in the world and holds the Guinness World Record for the highest known insurance valuation in history at $100 million in 1962, about $800 million in 2017.
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NEWS
Leonardo’s Codex Leicester Comes to Florence On display at the Uffizi from Oct. 30
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eonardo da Vinci’s Codex Leicester is coming to Florence this month, marking the start to celebrations all over the world remembering the great artist on the 500th year anniversary of his death in 2019. The exhibition – entitled Water, the Microscope of Nature. Leonardo da Vinci’s Codex Leicester – has been produced by the Gallerie degli Uffizi and the Museo Galileo with a contribution from the Fondazione CR Firenze. The Codex, also known as Codex Hammer and named after Thomas Coke, is Leonardo’s most famous
scientific journal and has the second highest sale price of any book. It was last shown in Italy in 1995, at an exhibition at Palazzo Querini Dubois in Venice. The last time it appeared in Florence was in 1982. The codex is a mixture of da Vinci’s observations and theories on astronomy, the properties of water, rocks, fossils, air and celestial light. It consists of 72 handwritten pages bound in red leather for a total of 18 sheets of paper, each folded in half and written on both sides. Handwritten in Italian by Leonardo in his characteristic mirror writing, the document contains 360 diagrams and drawings related to hydraulics, geology, paleontology, mechanics, astronomy and designs of a submarine and a diving mask whose invention was predicted by the genius. Microsoft founder Bill Gates purchased the Codex in 1994 at Christie’s auction house for USD $30,802,500, the equivalent to $49,772,200 in today’s money. To get it, Gates paid American oil tycoon Armand Hammer the 30.8 million dollars. When he made the Codex Leicester between 1504 and 1508, Leonardo was experiencing one of his most intense moments of artistic and scientific production. He was pursuing anatomical studies in the Hospital of Santa Maria Nuova and seeking the secret of human
flight. At the same time, he was involved in the painting of the Battle of Anghiari on the wall of Palazzo Vecchio and was studying possible solutions to make the Arno river navigable. The Codex’s 72 sheets will be displayed in the Aula Magliabechiana of the Uffizi Gallery. Thanks to an innovative multimedia aide christened by the Codescope, visitors will be able to leaf through the pages of the Codex on digital screens, access transcriptions of the texts, and receive information on the issues they address. The display will be accompanied by drawings that
Leonardo produced in the same years of the Codex Leicester, donated for the exhibition by some of the most important Italian and foreign museums. The multimedia applications produced by the Museo Galileo can be seen on the websites of the Uffizi and the Museo Galileo. “The display of Leonardo’s Codex Leicester alongside other extremely precious drawings and writings by the genius from Vinci points up our eagerness to improve visitor accessibility to highly complex themes of scientific research, and to set crucial moments in the history of science in context, in a thoroughly contemporary perspective,” Uffizi Director Eike Schmidt said. “The precious manuscript records Leonardo’s obsession with probing the secrets of water, its swirling and eddying, the strength with which it moulds and shapes, and the power with which it destroys. This, with recurrent references to Florence itself, to its urban fabric and to its river, at once a resource and a threat to the communities that lived on its banks. The exhibition urges visitors to travel back to a time of bold visions, of futuristic projects and of manifestations of thought of unparalleled genius,” Museo Galileo Director Paolo Galluzzi said. “The exhibition also marks a fur-
ther stage in our long and fruitful cooperation with Italy’s most important museum, the Uffizi, and with the Museo Galileo whose team, under the guiding hand of Professor Galluzzi, produced an innovative digital edition of German cartographer Martin Waldseemüller’s large map, the world’s oldest document (1507) bearing the name America as a tribute to Amerigo Vespucci – an outstanding achievement which we presented in the Library of Congress in Washington D.C. last year and which has proved to be a resounding success,” Fondazione CR Firenze President Umberto Tombari said.
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Showcasing Models of Da Vinci’s Designs
What’s the Oldest Leonardo?
OCTOBER www.florencenews.it
Leonardo Da Vinci’s Florentine Steps F
lorence is not home to many works of art by Leonardo. However, those present are fundamental to understanding him. Here are are a few steps in Florence to explore the personality of this genius of History.
Uffizi Gallery
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he exhibit presents working models of Leonardo’s designs that the Niccolai family has been reconstructing since 1995, when Carlo Niccolai dedicated himself to working full-time with the desire to realise Leonardo’s legacy. His passion founded the Niccolai Collection, the largest private collection of Leonardo models in the world, comprised of more than 300 working models created by himself and his sons, together with a team of artisans, engineers, historians and architects. The models have been displayed at more than 100 international exhibitions throughout Europe and as far afield as Australia, New Zea-
land, China, the US, Brazil, Saudi Arabia and Finland. The exhibit also displays copies of six codices that reveal the inner workings of this great man’s mind. The Niccolai family has been widely praised for their ongoing devotion in realising the vast inheritance that Leonardo left to science.
Le Macchine di Leonardo da Vinci Via Cavour 21 www.macchinedileonardo.com
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1471 depiction of the Archangel Gabriel is the oldest surviving work of Leonardo Da Vinci, two Italian art experts said last July. According to the two historians, who based their findings on three years of study in which they examined 6,000 documents, the artwork on terracotta, which is owned by the heirs of an Italian noble family, is the first piece Leonardo signed and his first self-portrait too, and was given to Joanna of Aragon in 1499 perhaps as a gift from Leonardo himself.
The Uffizi offers a room completely dedicated to the artist, including the paintings The Baptism of Christ, The Adoration of the Magi and The Annunciation. In The Baptism of Christ you can see the hand of Leonardo at the age of 16, when he was part of Verrocchio’s workshop. The Adoration of the Magi testifies of Leonardo’s originality in drawing, while in The Annunciation we see his first optical illusion.
The Leonardo da Vinci Museum Located on Via Cavour 21, this exhibition is composed of more than 50 functioning models that spread across four areas: a large hall, in which you can find his civil engineering machines, one dedicated to his flight machines, another to machines of war and, most recently, one showcasing a collection of anatomic models. At the museum it is also possible
to picture, in the grand scheme of things, the documentation of the life and works of Leonardo. The museum also provides a rest stop, the Caffè Michelangiolo, included in the entrance fee to the exhibition, and a bookshop rich in publications and gadgets. For further information see: http:// www.museoleonardodavincifirenze. com/2/
Fiesole Historically, the Parco di Montececeri owes its notoriety to the fact of having been chosen by Leonardo da Vinci in 1506 as the starting point for his experiment with his ‘flying machine.’ Inside the park, in memory of the first-ever attempt to fly, stands a monument that carries Leonardo’s epigraph. The monument is located in a small panoramic stopping point where Leonardo’s machine first took flight. The Parco di Montececeri has its two main entrances at Borgo di Maiano and Via di Doccia. From Maiano you proceed straight along until you find the first abandoned stone quarries on your left; at a certain point, you pull away from the left onto a sharp rise and a path that winds up to the point where Leonardo experimented with flight.
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Marina Abramović: The Cleaner Exhibit begins Sept. 21 at Palazzo Strozzi
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alazzo Strozzi will host a major exhibition from Sept. 21 to Jan. 20 featuring Marina Abramović, one of the most famous and controversial figures in contemporary art. The event is a retrospective bringing together more than 100 works and providing a comprehensive survey of Abramović creations from the 1970s to the 2000s. On display will be videos, photographs, paintings, objects, installations, and live recreations of her most famous performances by a group of artists specially chosen and trained for this show.
The exhibition – which is meant to continue the series of shows at Palazzo Strozzi by leading figures in contemporary art, following those dedicated to Ai Weiwei and Bill Viola – is the result of a direct collaboration between Palazzo Strozzi and the artist that will give Abramović her first opportunity to interact with Renaissance architecture. Abramović featured in a special event organized by the Fondazione Palazzo Strozzi at the Teatro del Maggio Musicale Fiorentino on Saturday, Sept. 22, at 3.30 p.m. The event was sold out and was a conversation between Abramović
and Arturo Galansino, curator of the show and general manager of the Strozzi Palace Foundation, in which the artist discussed aspects of her personal and creative life, surveying the stages in her career from her beginnings in Serbia to her latest major performances throughout the world. Born Nov. 30, 1946, in Belgrade, Yugoslavia (now in Serbia), Abramović is known for works that dramatically tested the endurance and limitations of her own body and mind. She was raised in Yugoslavia by parents who fought as Partisans in World War II and were later em-
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ployed in the communist government of Josip Broz Tito. After studying painting at the Academy of Fine Arts in Belgrade, she became interested in the possibilities of performance art, in particular the ability to use her body as a site of artistic and spiritual exploration. In 1972 she conceived a series of visceral performance pieces that engaged her body as both subject and medium. In Rhythm 10 (1973) she methodically stabbed the spaces between her fingers with a knife, at times drawing blood. In Rhythm 0 (1974) she stood immobile in a room for six hours along with 72
objects, varying from a rose to a loaded gun, that the audience was invited to use on her however they wished. These pieces provoked controversy not only for their perilousness, but also for Abramović’s occasional nudity, which would become a regular element of her work thereafter. In 1975 she moved to Amsterdam, and a year later she began collaborating with Frank Uwe Laysiepen (byname Ulay), a German artist with whom she shared a personal life and artistic career, until they parted ways in 1988. Much of their work together was concerned with gender identity. In 1997, she won the Golden Lion for best artist at the Venice Biennale. Her exhibit, the brooding Balkan Baroque, used both video and live performance to interrogate her cultural and familial identity. In 2002 she again captured public attention for The House with the Ocean View, a gallery installation in which she lived ascetically for 12 days in three exposed cubes mounted onto a wall. In 2010, the MoMA museum in New York City held a wide-ranging retrospective of her work, The Artist Is Present. Abramović has also worked with such pop icons as Jay Z, Lady Gaga, and James Franco.
Marina Abramović Palazzo Strozzi Sept. 21 - Jan. 20 Open every day Opening hours: 10 a.m. - 8 p.m. Thursdays 10 a.m. - 11 p.m.
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OCTOBER www.florencenews.it
Campaign Encourages Tourists to Respect Florence
The Three Tenors at Santo Stefano
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he City of Florence has launched a campaign called #EnjoyRespectFirenze that promotes sustainable tourism to preserve the heritage of Florence by respecting the city and its inhabitants. Following are the main points of the campaign:
C. DE MELO
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oasting an original Romanesque facade of green and white marble, the Santo Stefano Church now serves as an auditorium for musical and theatrical performances. The concert is inspired by the world-renowned ‘Three Tenors’ Luciano Pavarotti, Plácido Domingo and José Carreras. Standing atop Buontalenti’s stunning marmoreal balustrade of 1574 and accompanied by a chamber ensemble of mandolin, doublebass and grandpiano, Mattia Nebbiai, Claudio Sassetti, and Leonardo Sgroi dazzle audiences with their incredible voices. The excellent acoustics in Santo Stefano require no microphones. The three tenors perform the masterpieces which brought fame to
Italy all over the world, such as some of the arias from La Traviata, Rigoletto and Tosca, as well as some of the most famous Neapolitan traditional songs. The musical program includes several operatic pieces from Verdi, Puccini, Rossini, Brahms, and De Curtis. The singers are accompanied by the flawless tunes of a grand piano, mandolin, and a double bass. The three tenors exuded tremendous energy and playfulness on stage, making the audience giggle at times with their delightful humor. Their velvety voices kept a full house entranced for over an hour with each selected song showing off the full potential of their collective talent. One highlight was the aria, E lucevan le stelle from the opera TOSCA, written by Giacomo Puccini. The emotion and range of this performance was truly impressive.
• Remember you are not allowed to eat food, drink, or lie down on the street or staircases. If you wish to eat something or rest be sure to use proper benches and tables. • Don’t climb the monuments. • Vandalizing monuments, doors, or walls is a serious crime punishable by law. • It is forbidden to be drunk in public. • It is forbidden to litter. Please dispose of any garbage or recyclables in their proper containers. • It is forbidden to eat or drink on the steps of monuments and churches. • Don’t write on churches or works of art • Don’t swim in the fountains • In public places and establishments be sure to wear a shirt. Going shirtless or wearing a swimsuit is not considered enough coverage. • Don’t engage in any behavior that would endanger you or others. • In places of worship, short dresses, shorts, and tank tops generally aren’t allowed. If you plan on visiting any of Florence’s many churches, be sure to dress conservatively, making sure your clothing goes past your knees. • Beware of counterfeit goods. Just a few days ago I saw a scammer trying to sell a single watch on the street, claiming it was a Rolex. Always buy your goods from stores that are clearly marked. Abusive sellers are punishable by law, but you are too if you buy from them. • When it comes to your noise level, please be considerate, especially from midnight to 7 a.m. Don’t disturb the peace with excessive shouting or loud musical instruments. • If you need to relieve yourself, always use a public toilet. Urinating in public and exposing your private parts is strictly forbidden. • There are four information points in the city: Piazza Stazione, via Cavour, Bigallo (piazza Duomo) and at the airport. • In Florence there is fresh water available to the public. Be sure to carry a reusable water bottle.
VALIGERIA GAZZARRINI Via Porta Rossa, 71-73R - Firenze, Italy Tel. +39 055 212747 www.valigeriagazzarrini.com
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The Art Exhibits in Italy Riding Through Time
The art of horse riding from antiquity to the middle ages
MILAN - Caravaggio. Beyond the Canvas: an Immersive Show, Museo della Permanente, Oct. 6 – Jan. 27. This multimedia experience uses innovative technology to explore Caravaggio’s art. The exhibit is divided into 4 parts and is about Caravaggio as a man rather than just as an artist. Picasso Metamorfosi, Palazzo Reale, Oct. 18 – Feb. 17. This exhibit, which looks at the relationship between Picasso, myths and antiquity, showcases about 200 works both by Picasso or that inspired him. FERRARA - Courbet and Nature, Palazzo dei Diamanti, Sept. 29 – Jan. 6. The exhibit showcases about 50 works by French painter Gustave Courbet. BOLOGNA - Hokusai Hiroshige. Oltre l’Onda. Capolavori dal Boston
Museum of Fine Arts, Museo Civico Archeologico, Oct. 12 – March 3. Showcases about 270 works by Japanese masters Katsushika Hokusai (1760 - 1849) and Utagawa Hiroshige (1797 - 1858), both known for their use of waves and flowing worlds. ASTI - Chagall. Colore e Magia, Palazzo Mazzetti, Sept. 27 – Feb. 3. NOVARA - Ottocento in Collezione. Dai Macchiaioli a Segantini, Novara Castle, Oct. 20 – Feb. 24. PADUA - Gauguin e gli Impressionisti. Capolavori dalla Collezione Ordrupgaard, Palazzo Zabrella, Sept. 29 – Jan. 27. The exhibit showcases impressionist masterpieces from the Danish museum. TREVISO - Da Tiziano a Van Dyck. Il Volto del ‘500, Casa dei Carraresi, Sept. 26 – Feb. 3.
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osted in the Limonaia in the Boboli Garden from June 26 to Oct. 14, this exhibit recounts the relationship between man and horse in all its possible aspects. From daily life and children’s games to war and religious ritual, horses were always a constant presence by man’s side. Riding Through Time explores the evolution of the tools to master horses such as bits, snaffle bits, spurs, stirrups and other artifacts alongside works of art illustrating the role played by the horse in the ancient world. The exhibition includes about 100 items coming from museums from all over the world. It is divided into five sections
– prehistory, the world of Greece and Magna Graecia, the Etruscan and Venetic world, the age of Rome, and the Middle Ages – covering a period of over 2,000 years from the Early Iron Age to the later Middle Ages. Items on display for the first time include the Populonia Gig, a rare example of an Etruscan carriage discovered in the mid-20th century in the so-called “Fossa della Biga” (or “Two-Horse Chariot Ditch”). The piece has been reassembled and restored for this special event. Made of wood, iron and bronze, the ‘Gig’ was a vehicle used to carry highprofile personalities on occasion of wedding processions or funeral
corteges and dates back to the early 5th century BC. Of particular interest are two horse skulls unearthed during excavations in the western necropolis of Himera usually on display in the Museo Pirro Marconi in the Himera Archaeological Park, and the Attic red-figure kylix depicting Athena and the Trojan Horse (The inner bowl of the cup, painted by the Sabouroff Painter, shows the goddess Athena enthroned, stroking a huge horse sporting the known red woollen bands which signify victory tainiai niketeriai). “The whole concept of this exhibition appears to be encapsulated in one of the pieces on display, a splendid pair of 4th century BC bronze and ivory chanfrons designed to protect the horse’s forehead, nose and muzzle: the silhouette of the metal sheeting, shaped and embossed to follow the outline of the horse’s elongated anatomy, but, far from displaying the anatomy of a horse, it represents the features of a human face sporting a helmet on its head, as the horse and its rider become a single, fused being,” said Uffizi director Eike Schmidt.
Riding Through Time Limonaia del Giardino di Boboli Full ticket € 10.00; reduced € 5.00 Free for children under 18 Open every day from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. (closed first and last Monday of the month)
THE RESTAURANT OF THE FLORENTINES Located on Via Ghibellina near Santa Croce, Da Que’ Ganzi offers a fresh seafood and meat menu for both lunch and dinner. Tuscan specialties include ribollita and authentic Florentine steak, and all of the cakes and sweets are homemade. A special weekday lunch menu for less than €10 makes the restaurant affordable for anyone. Special dishes: BAKED SEA BASS & TUSCAN STEAK Mon. to Sun.: 12–2:30 p.m. & 7–11:30 p.m. Closed on Tuesdays. Via Ghibellina, 70/r •055 22 60 010 www.daqueiganzi.it • info@daqueiganzi.it
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Il Ponte Presents IT HAPPENS 01 New project begins with Vlad Nancă and Luca Resta
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he contemporary art gallery Il Ponte opens the 201819 season with the brand new project IT HAPPENS. Curated by Paola Tognon, this exhibit investigates contemporary visual culture, offering opportunities for experimentation and comparison between young international artists and expanding the gallery’s relations – after 50 years of activity – through intergenerational dialogue. Every year, in fact, IT HAPPENS will call artists who, following meetings, residencies and a shared period of work in Florence, will present a site-specific project at Il Ponte. The participants of the first IT HAPPENS are Vlad Nancă (Bucharest, Romania) and Luca Resta (Italian living and working in Paris). With no limits on materials, no obligations to share practices, spaces or languages, no need to put together a joint show, the research of Vlad Nancă on public space and
its poetic and objectual resilience (between memory and utopia, by way of irksome present everyday life) meets the obsessive repetitions of Luca Resta to compose a 4-handed project filling both areas of the gallery, made of actions and ideas, images, videos, sculptures and readymades. The objects and images passed down and repeated through the decades, recorded and re-proposed by the poetic and political eye of Romanian artist Vlad Nancă, encounter the repetitiveness of mechanical, human or technological actions which delocalize the shape and function of the objects proposed by the Italian Luca Resta. Together – in name and in deed – the two artists will transform the gallery into a rarefied space where sharp irony and fun dominate obsessions and layers of meaning. The meetings, long email correspondence and swapped
references (from history to cooking, language to 1970s artistic and architectural research, the sets of ephemeral fashion shows to everyday objects) created a virtual and surreal platform onto which for many months the Nancă and Resta uploaded research, poetics and formal similarities, as well as experiences from their exhibitions and projects in Marseilles, Brussels, Paris and Bucharest. The upshot is the co-habitation of works and stories during the period of their residency in Florence.
OCTOBER www.florencenews.it
Extra-luxury Since 1830
With its evening bags, walking sticks, and fans, Ottino has been supplying the royal family since its establishment in 1830. Thanks to its reputation for selling high quality items, the shop soon became an essential stop for the European aristocracy when visiting Florence. After the Second World War, Ottino established its name as one of the foremost producers of leather accessories. Since then, its products became the symbol of quality for Florentines as well as for the English and American communities living in Florence or visiting the city.
It Happens 01 VLAD NANCĂ and LUCA RESTA Sept. 21 - Nov. 9 Opening Sept. 21, 6:30 p.m. Il Ponte Art Gallery Via di Mezzo 42/b
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Florence News 11
HISTORY
October Poisoning
The story of the murder of Francesco de’ Medici and his wife Bianca Cappello THOMAS RICCIOTTI
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hen it comes to love, greed, betrayal and murder, the history of Florence offers quite a bit of food for thought to both the writer and the reader. However, there is one story that is worthy of being told one more time, in the hope to find a reader who has never heard of it and, through it, will be able to learn more of the dark sides of the Medici Family and Florentine history. It is the story of the death of Francesco de’ Medici and his wife Bianca Cappello, which perhaps is not as famous as the Pazzi conspiracy, yet it is no less fascinating and sinister. This story unveils some truth behind Florence’s glorious past. The poisoning took place in the villa of the Grand Duke at Poggio a Caiano, right outside of Florence, where Francesco and Bianca lived. It was Oct. 8, 1587, when the Tuscan ‘royal’ couple suddenly fell sick. After a long day spent hunting with Ferdinando, Francesco’s brother, the couple returned home for dinner, and after felt sick. Both Francesco and Bianca went to bed with high fever and vomiting. It was the beginning of 11 days of agony. Francesco and Bianca died on the same day, but not on the
same hour and, at least, without knowing of each other death. Rumors that they had been poisoned spread immediately. Who could it have been? All suspicion fell on Ferdinando. His behavior during Francesco’s final days, and after his brother’s death, was overly suspicious. Ferdinando, who was a powerful cardinal – what a religious
Perhaps this story is not as famous as the Pazzi conspiracy, yet it is no less fascinating and sinister than it. It reveals a lot of what was behind Florence’s glorious past. figure! – took charge of the entire matter. He wrote up all the medical forms, minimizing the gravity of his brother’s state of health in the dispatches sent to the Holy See. He stressed that his brother’s illness had to be attributed solely to his imprudent eating habits and that Bianca’s illness was caused by
the grief she felt for her husband’s condition. He did his best to raise an impenetrable wall of isolation around Francesco and Bianca, so that no one with the right, or the authority, could be admitted to their presence. He ordered immediate autopsies on the two bodies (which was habitual at that time for princes and rulers, but not for a grand duchess), as if he wanted to have flawless documentation on the “non-toxic” cause of death to protect himself from future accusations. He arranged a solemn funeral for his brother but reserved a dismissive, to say the least, service for Bianca. Her body was taken to Florence by a small group of courtiers and, according to what Florentines have passed down, was hastily buried in a common grave in San Lorenzo. For centuries, Ferdinando remained the no. 1 ‘suspect’ for the alleged murder of his brother and Bianca, but there was no definitive proof, at least until 2004. How could the evidence appear after so many years? In the late ’90s, four professors from the University of Florence, three toxicologists and one medicine historian, analyzed fragments of Bianca and Francesco’s livers after a document had been found which revealed that, after the autopsy, the guts of the ‘royal’
couple had been buried in the San Francesco a Bonistallo Church. According to the prescriptions of the precious document, researchers found their ‘gold’, although its appearance was quite the opposite: on the slight remains of two livers were traces of arsenic, enough to surrender to the most important existing tribunal, that of History, the name of the real culprit: Ferdinando. How true vox pops was! But why did Ferdinando commit such an atrocious crime? Apparently, he had a very good motive to kill his brother and Bianca, whom Francesco had married after the death of his first wife, the Grand Duchess Giovanna of Austria. Ferdinando was at risk of being excluded from the succession if Francesco’s illegitimate son Don Antonio was to inherit the title of Grand Duke or, even worse, if Bianca, who was no
longer able to have children, was to falsify the birth of an heir. That’s why he killed his brother. But wait a second. Any attentive reader should ask the writer how researchers could conclude that those that they had found were Francesco’s and Bianca’s remains. Here is how: although Ferdinando had denied a State funeral for Bianca – and therefore we will never know where she was buried – researchers knew that Francesco was buried inside the Medici Chapels next to his first wife Giovanna. In 2004, inside his tomb, researchers found remains whose DNA was the same as that of the male liver’s found in the San Francesco a Bonistallo Church. The Tribunal of History, now, had the opportunity to solemnly condemn Ferdinando, even though after four long centuries. Once again, vox pops was not in the wrong.
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12 Florence News
HISTORY
Florentine October Wine, chestnuts, convents, prisons, aliens
THOMAS RICCIOTTI
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ctober in Florence and Tuscany has always been the month of wine – the vendemmia, to use the Italian term to indicate the grapes harvest – and chestnuts, which according to Florentine tradition were to be celebrated together. Until the mid-1800s, celebrations began on Oct. 28, Saint Simon’s Day, when people gathered in the Piazza San Simone, a small square in the Santa Croce neighborhood, where chestnuts were sold for the three days of the end-of-October celebration. Here, and in the tiny
streets around the square, Florentines ate chestnuts cooked in quite a few ways – although they preferred to eat them boiled with bay leaves and wild fennel or roasted in a special pierced pan – and drank the vino novello, the sparkling wine made with the grapes of the harvest that had just ended. In Florentine tradition, there is a famous proverb to recall these marvelous times – Per San Simone, ballotte e vin novo! (on Saint Simon’s Day, chestnuts and Vino Novello!) – that has survived until the present day. Yet October has also other meanings in Florentine history. We may go back in time and tell a four-cen-
OCTOBER www.florencenews.it
tury old story that began thanks to a young woman by the name of Apollonia. In October 1390, the Florence Council granted Apollonia the possibility to live in a tiny wood house right next to a pillar of the Rubaconte bridge, today’s Ponte alle Grazie. Here, in such an uncomfortable place, she lived for six years, after which she felt that it was time to open her life to new people, and thus welcomed a nun by the name of Agata to live with her along with three-year old niece. Apollonia rubbed off on her two new roommates, and four years later, in 1400, feeling the need to totally isolate themselves from the rest of the world, the three nuns decided to wall themselves up in the small house, suffering extreme discomfort while being constantly in the grips of the Arno river and its floods. Times were different, so different from today. What happened was, in fact, quite astonishing: other women felt that living in complete isolation was the right choice, and, following Apollonia’s teaching, built another tiny wood house like that of Apollonia by another pillar of the same bridge. So struck by their choice, Florentines began to call these nuns “le murate” (literally, the “walled up”). The main problem that “le murate” had was that of receiving the sacraments, which they solved by building a small chapel – yet big enough to host a small altar, a priest, and a cleric – inside one of the two small houses. By 1420, “le murate” nuns were already 13, enough to impress the Pope – Martino V – who, after a State visit to Florence on that
same year, granted them a plenary indulgence, significantly enhancing their prestige amongst Florentines. In 1424, Giovanni de’ Benci, an influential Florentine who lived nearby, financed the construction of a new, larger monastery near the walls called the Most Holy Annunciation and St. Catherine. At the end of that year, a solemn pro-
cession announced to Florentines the move of the recluse nuns from the dangerous, uncomfortable houses built next to pillars of the bridge to a much better and prestigious location: a new place on Via Ghibellina, the inheritance of a patron. The monastery was then renovated and expanded for the first time in 1471 following a fire,
In October 1390, the Florence Council granted Apollonia the possibility to live in a tiny wood house right next to a pillar of the Rubaconte bridge, today’s Ponte alle Grazie.
Homemade, Vegan, Gluten Free Gelati Via S. Giuseppe, 4R (Near Santa Croce)
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OCTOBER www.florencenews.it and later in 1571 following a flood. And what about the two small houses by the bridge’s pillars? They were destroyed in 1557 by a flood of the Arno. No nuns – thank God – were there anymore. In the mid1880s, Le Murate –the name of the Via Ghibellina complex – after a short period in which it was used as a military barrack first and a fireworks factory after, was transformed into a prison that, through-
out its history, was to ‘host’ a rich anthropology of prisoners: Italian patriots, anarchists, socialists, and antifascists (among the latter were Gaetano Salvemini, future Italy’s Prime Minister Alcide De Gasperi, and Carlo Levi). After the end of World War II there were several escape attempts by the detainees due to overcrowding of the prison and food shortage. In 1966, the Arno flooded the rooms
In 1966, many of the detainees, instead of escaping as they could, rescued some of the elderly who lived in the nearby Borgo de’ Greci and who had been immobilized by the flood.
of the ground floor of Le Murate and the cells of the detained had to be opened, allowing 83 prisoners to escape. Perhaps, while in prison, these detainees felt the positive influence, or the spirit, of their ancestor nuns. In the dramatic moments of the flood, in fact, many of these detainees, instead of escaping as they could, rescued some of the elderly who lived in the nearby Borgo de’ Greci and who had been immobilized by the flood. One of the prison inmates even saved the son of a police inspector who had got trapped in one of the rooms of the ground floor of the prison. And in the days following the flood some even made the choice of returning to prison to finish serving their sentences, while some remained fugitives and were later arrested and others managed to escape. The story of Le Murate as a prison was about to come to an end: in the 1970s – a violent decade that passed down in Italian history as the ‘years of lead’ – the detainees’ conditions further worsened because of the many injustices, abuses, tortures and mistreatments that were taking place in the prison. The prison was closed once for all in 1984. Today, the complex includes a former monastery, two squares, one street, and a large courtyard. Finally the aliens. On Oct. 27, 1954, during an insignificant – yes, insignificant – reserve-league soccer game in which Fiorentina was playing local rival team Pistoiese, a group of UFOs traveling at high speed abruptly stopped over the stadium. There was silence,
Florence News 13
HISTORY complete silence, as the crowd of around 10,000 spectators witnessed the event to later describe the aliens as “cigar shaped.” The game interrupted. The referee, seeing the players refusing to chase the ball and raising their eyes to the sky to see the line of what Florentines the day after called the dischi volanti (flying saucers), did the same: eyes on. The ‘saucers’ passed above the city, the telephone lines of local newspapers were tied up for the whole day. After so many phone calls, the editor-in-chief of the most important local newspaper, La Nazione, jumped on the roof of the building where his office was and realized that the callers were not in the wrong at all. While crossing the sky, the ‘aliens’ dropped gelatinous material that annoyed many Florentines, who hated having this jelly smearing their windows, but not the University researchers who analyzed it and concluded that it was a substance too resistant to be found on this planet. However, the aliens, here in Florence at least, did not show up anymore. Yet, that was enough to establish in our city one of the most important Ufology study centers in the world: in the hope that, next time the ‘aliens’ come to attend a soccer game, it will be a first and not a reserve team game, possibly on a Sunday, and possibly against Fiorentina’s hated rival team, Juventus – actually, why did they come to see Pistoiese? – cheering us from a cloud above the stadium with Fiorentina taking the lead 2-0. Any help from the sky, in this game, will be welcomed. Modern analytical techniques have
allowed re-evaluation of the cause of death of Francesco I de’ Medici and his wife, Bianca Cappello. It now seems that the grand-ducal couple died of acute arsenic poisoning and not malaria as previously believed.
While crossing the sky of the city, the ‘aliens’ dropped jelly minicups that annoyed many Florentines who hated having them smearing their windows
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14 Florence News
HISTORY
The Esoteric Renaissance
ELIZABETH MONROY
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veryday visitors from around the world pour into Florence to admire the city’s art and architecture. They bask in the glory of frescos, paintings, statues, fountains, churches, palaces and piazzas, absorbing their beauty and splendor. But too often they leave Florence without understanding the inspiration behind the Renaissance. They never delve into the “esoteric” or hidden philosophies, beliefs, and practices that fueled this glorious period in history. This leads to the theme that the world, generally, has never really absorbed the message that all these great monuments of stone or strokes of the paint brush have to offer. These monuments, in fact, exist not just
to be admired or studied but also transmit an important message for the entire planet, as the Great Masters who created them poured their souls into these works of art to inspire future artists to do the same. But why do some works of art touch the soul where others fail? The Renaissance was a “rebirth” of literature, philosophy, art, music, politics, science, and the religion of antiquity. It was during this period that the Medici founded the Neoplatonic Academy to educate young people in the harmonious development of all physical, mental, and spiritual human qualities, making each individual as unique as a piece of artwork. One of the most influential humanist philosophers of the early Renaissance and also a Catholic priest, Marsilio Facino was ap-
pointed head of the Neoplatonic Academy in Florence, whose headquarters was located in the Medici’s villa at Careggi. Here, artists, philosophers, writers, poets and scientists met and exchanged their ideas. Among them were Michelangelo, Leonardo Di Vinci, Botticelli, Pico della Mirandola, just to mention a few. Their artistic personalities were inspired to the high ideals of beauty, truth, virtue and the pursuit of knowledge. By sharing this from the depths of their souls, they translated ideals into art while striving to touch the Soul of God. One of the philosophers who most inspired these artists was Plato, an idealist who believed in a higher reality of which the material world is seen a manifestation and in a world of perfection in which beauty, truths, intelligence, virtues and untainted love reign supreme. He tapped into higher vibratory states of the Infinite where beauty, virtue and wisdom reside, similar to the way Buddhist sages strive to reach Nirvana or Yogis seek Union with God or “God Realization”. These ideas formed the basis of what we now called Western Mysticism. Plato taught that all artists should seek to attain this world of perfection and translate it into art. The Neo-Platonic ideal in literature, science and art is, in general, the search for harmony and perfection. These ideals were developed by Botticelli, who, in his masterpiece “The Birth of Venus,” depicted celestial love, highlighted by the purity of the nude, and by Michelangelo Buonarroti, according to
OCTOBER www.florencenews.it whom the artist looked like God because of his attempt to incorporate idea into matter, just as God had created beauty in the physical world. Plato’s influence was strong even in Renaissance architecture. Leon Battista Alberti’s architectural design was inspired by the pursuit of the model or ideal city of Neoplatonic architecture, which tried to create harmony and balance through the works of man. Another philosopher and astrologer who influenced the Renaissance was Marsilio Ficino. According to Ficino, love, freedom and the search for the infinite were defining values of the Renaissance. Love, intended as the work of God in the world, was understood primarily as a platonic way to rise to perfection and contemplate God. Renaissance esoteric thought incorporated principles from alchemy, the mystical Kabbalah, Gnosticism, Neoplatonism, Hermeticism, Ritual Magic, Astrology, Numerology, the Tarot, Sacred Geometry, Symbology and much more. Moreover, Renaissance astrology suggests a correspondence between the structures of the mind and the real structures of the universe. One of the many ancient works rediscovered during the Renaissance was the “Corpus Hermeticum” of Hermes Trismegistus, which Cosimo de Medici had translated by Marsilio Ficino around 1460. The book was the basis for alchemy, the search for the philosopher’s stone believed to be the source of three fundamental properties: im-
mortality, omniscience and transmutation. The latter’s true concept of transmutation being the ability to transmute baser materials into higher more refined “vibrations.” Through the Dark Ages, these teachings had to be hidden often in plain sight. The focus appeared to be that of turning lead into gold. However, the real focus was the transmutation of both consciousness as the human’s carbon body into a “Light Body” or “Christ body,” or the body that was depicted in all the paintings of the “Transfiguration of Christ,” as well as ancient knowledge that was passed down through the ages. Alchemists taught the philosopher’s stone had magical powers. However, many believe the stone they sought was hidden within the human body which, when properly activated, assisted with the process of transmutation. Could this unique time period we are now in be a time for a “New Renaissance”? A “Consciousness Renaissance”? Perhaps the Renaissance of the past can inspire future artists to align themselves with the Infinite, creating works of Art that emanate truth, beauty, virtue, love and wisdom. Art that emanates from the soul and thus touches the soul of the audience.
Director The New Renaissance Florence International Film School www.florenceinternationalfilmschool.com
I' GIRONE DE' GHIOTTI THE VINAIO NEAR PIAZZA SIGNORIA
Winner Gelato Festival Firenze 2016
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16 Florence News
CITY BEAT
Celebrating Halloween C.DE MELO
A Brief History of Witchcraft in Europe
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ome, Italy is the cradle of Catholicism and home to the Vatican. Considering the scope of human history, the Catholic Inquisition took place quite recently. The Malleus Maleficarum (Witch’s Hammer) was first published in Germany in the late 15th century, and served as the veritable handbook for any clergymen wishing to rid their towns of witches. By the time the 16th century Inqui-
brought about a brutal change in the world. In addition to discrediting the wise women who were imperative to the health and well-being of communities and also maintained the precarious balance between men and women, the worshipers of monotheistic male gods made sure these women were destroyed. During the medieval period, “witches” eventually became known as evil creatures of the night who sought out to harm good Christians. They were feared, shunned, humiliated, and abused in inhumane ways. Unfortunately, societal ignorance on the topic of the occult is still rampant throughout the world. Those who choose an alternative path are often viewed with skepticism or come across as intimidating to others. Some are even put to death. Witches seek to live in harmony with Nature, drawing and manipulating energy from the four elements- earth, fire, air, water. Combine this natural power with the strength of our will and you have magic. We apply magic in useful ways, such as healing the body and mind of others and ourselves. Contrary to popular (erroneous) belief, witches don’t believe in Satan or demons. Real witches don’t go around uttering curses or casting spells at whim. The manipulation of energy is not something to be toyed with, but rather to be handled carefully and wisely. In short, witches are neither good nor bad. We strive to be like Nature, which incorporates both light and dark, life and death. The same sky
sition came around, the Malleus Maleficarum was widely known. If you were accused of witchcraft, you were given the option to perform a public Act of Faith, such as being dunked underwater for long periods of time. If you survived the horrible ordeal, you were declared a witch and burned at the stake. If you died (which was often the case), you were declared innocent and your soul would go straight to Heaven. Today, there are countries in the EU where paganism is common and ancient traditions are still observed. Such is not the case with Italy. Catholicism is deeply rooted in the culture, food, and even secular laws. Coming out as an atheist, a homosexual, or a witch is often met with societal scorn.
Misconceptions Abound- Then and Now
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nce upon a time, wise women flourished within their local communities. They were healers and midwives, usually well-versed in flower lore, and living in harmony with Nature. These women were respected and their valuable advice often saved the lives of humans and animals. The term Mother Nature, which is still used today, refers to the great energy of the “Mother” or female spirit. Violent, patriarchal deities demanding “exclusive devotion”
The 15th Century Malleus Maleficarum (The Witch’s Hammer)
FRESH AND ORIGINAL SINCE 2004 Tel. (+39) 055 290748 | Via dell’Acqua, 2/R - 50122 Firenze
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OCTOBER www.florencenews.it that can provide sun and rain for precious crops can also cause a mighty tempest to destroy them.
Witches in Florence Today
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auro Cortese knew at a young age that paganism was the path he would follow in life. A voracious reader of the occult and native of Calabria, his family and surroundings helped shape him as a person. The Calabrese believe that the sky, mountains, and sea have stories to tell. There is mysticism in all things within the natural world. Mauro wanted to create an environment where people from all walks of life could gather together to exchange stories and energies. La Soffita delle Streghe is much more than just a “witch shop” where one can purchase books, candles, and crystals. It’s a center for learning and healing; a friendly and safe place within the community where one can ask questions, take a class on astrology or Tarot reading. Young in body but old in soul, Mauro wisely stated that there is no way one person can know everything. For this reason, he invites specialists to instruct people on reike, yoga, nutrition, etc. He offers Tarot readings and leads many sacred rituals that are celebrated throughout the year. With so much to offer, it’s no surprise that La Soffitta delle Streghe’s Facebook Page has well over 175,000 followers from all over the world.
La Soffitta delle Streghe- the only occult shop in Florence, Italy
Celebrating Samhain (Halloween) in Florence
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amhain is the most sacred of the Sabbats. This is the time when the great “Wheel of Life” turns once again, and the Goddess (Mother Spirit) dies. Death is celebrated as a sacred rite of passage on the night of 31 October. The veil separating the Living from the Dead is temporarily lifted, allowing us to call upon the wisdom of our ancestors. Tradition demands that we write down our accomplishments and failures of the past year and our goals for the next. These slips of paper are then burned in a cauldron, the ensuing smoke a symbol of unspoken desire. The dead Goddess (now a tiny seed), reawakens during the Winter Solstice, and by the Spring Equinox, she is reborn, rejuvenated, and profoundly improved in every sense. She blossoms like a beautiful flower- alive during spring and summer- only to die again in the autumn. This is one of the oldest religions in human history, and the celebrations corre
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OCTOBER www.florencenews.it
Get Involved with the Community a Soffitta delle Streghe is part of the BOBOLI Centro Commerciale Naturale (a group of local businesses near the historical Porta Romana) that supports each other. The merchants celebrate Halloween along with the occult shop, and help them advertise a pumpkin carving event that is both fun and informative. Like
The Cozy and Welcoming Interior of La Soffitte delle Streghe, Located on Via Romana 135/R
CITY BEAT
HALLOWEEN IN FLORENCE: What to See, Do, and Eat
spond with the land- from the time of sowing seed to harvesting crops. In conclusion, we all have a dark side- including the Goddess. This is a time when we celebrate that darkness, which is not evil, but rather our profound nature; our real selves with faults intact.
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Florence News 17
The Cozy and Welcoming Interior of La Soffitte delle Streghe, Located on Via Romana 135/R
and follow their Facebook page for events and promotions. Located on Via Romana 135/R, La Soffitte delle Streghe also opens their door to the public for the sacred celebration of Samhain but space is limited. Reservations are recommended, so send them an email or give them a call to claim a spot. Feel free to pop in and say hello whenever you’re in the area. You can browse the beautiful Himalayan salt lamps and dream-catchers, admire the pretty stones and mystical crystals, or simply check out their extensive library. Remember, education is the key to tolerance and understanding, so feel free to ask questions! Thank you for reading and Happy Halloween.
C. De Melo
Author of SABINA and other unique fiction novels www.cdemelo.com
C.D. MELO
paritions walk along the medieval walls.
WHAT TO SEE: 1. Hotel / Pensione Burchianti: This 17th century building contains beautiful frescoes and gracious rooms. Although the late Mussolini himself has spent the night there, it is rumored that the owner does not. Why? Burchianti is said to be haunted. Guests have reported seeing a male ghost, but don’t worry, he’s apparently friendly. People have also reported feeling shifts of air (as if someone has entered the room), icy breath / vapor, and the feeling of the bed sinking as if someone was sitting on the bed- when there’s no one there, of course!
3. San Miniato al Monte Cemetery: No Halloween is complete without a visit to the local graveyard and Florence has an incredible one. This famous, frequently visited cemetery lies just outside the city center, behind the 11th century monastery dedicated to St. Minius. It is full of hauntingly beautiful statues, mausoleums so grand that any vampire would be proud to be entombed within their walls, and gravestones complete with eerie black and white photographs of the deceased. Famous Italians are buried there, too, like Carlo Collodi- the author of Pinocchio.
2. Fort Belvedere: Across the river in the Oltrarno there is a medieval fortress that stands proudly atop a hill. This is the area where the city burned the damned: those accused of witchcraft and murder. It is said the restless spirits of these condemned people are still there, causing grief and mischief for the living. Supposedly, some of the winding, curvy roads vibrate at night with supernatural energy and people have reported not only hearing voices, but seeing ghost-like ap-
WHAT DO: Florence Inferno: This is a spooky walking tour that takes place at night. You are encouraged to dress in costume (www.florenceinferno. com). Tasso Hostel: In addition to hosting a fabulous open-mic night on the first Wednesday of each month, they throw a mean Halloween costume party. With a big indoor / outdoor space and cocktail bar, you will definitely want to dress up for this event
(tassohostelflorence.com). WHAT TO EAT: 1. Tartufo (truffle): Aromatic, mouth-watering fungi that can be grated or sliced on meats, pasta, pizza- just about anything! Black or white, they are absolutely delicious. 2. Cavolo Nero (kale): Used in making the famous ribollita soup, which is hearty, healthy and tasty. You can also find this leafy green atop tuscan bread as a crostino. 3. Zucca (pumpkin): Used in ravioli (divine), soup, and even gelato. 4. Castagna (chestnuts): Wonderful when roasted (they are sold on the streets), but also a unique flavor for gelato. Try castagnaccio , which is a torte made with chestnut flour. And of course, wash it all down with wonderful red wine from the Chianti!
C. De Melo Author of SABINA and other unique fiction novels www.cdemelo.com
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18 Florence News
CITY BEAT
OCTOBER www.florencenews.it
Dirty Deeds and Dire Deaths
Between Florence’s Bloody Walls
IVANA SCATOLA
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t is said that the feast of Halloween originated from a merging of harvest festivals, pagan celebrations of the dead and most importantly, as the eve before the two day Christian feast days All Hallows’ or All Saints’ Day (November 1), and All Souls’ Day, (November 2): a feast for the dead. With this somber theme in mind, we look back at the most famous deaths Florence has produced in its civic history, and their various sinister forms. The most famous of these is undoubtedly that of Girolamo Savonarola: Dominican friar, Florentine influential political personage and preacher. Savonarola was renowned for his passionate sermons, in which he entirely condemned moral corruption and forewarned of an oncoming apocalypse. He orchestrated the so-called ‘Bonfire of the Vanities’, which was responsible for destroying thousands of Renaissance treasures: books, artworks (allegedly some by Botticelli), clothes and musical instruments, all set alight in an attempt to purge the city of materialistic goods and temptations. After denouncing Pope Alexander VI, he was naturally excommunicated by the leader of the Catholic Church, and soon the city turned against him. He was arrested and imprisoned with fellow friars Fra Dome-
IVANA SCATOLA
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nico and Fra Silvestro Maruffi, and tortured, until he confessed that he had invented seeing prophecies and visions that he had previously claimed were divine. The three friars were publicly hanged and then (ironically) burnt in the Piazza della Signoria on May 23, 1498, precisely where a commemorative plaque in honour of the three lies today. Other famous deaths granted by the city are those of the conspirators of the Pazzi plot against the Medici family. An attempt to overthrow the Medici family and their political hold over the city
by means of the assassination of brothers Lorenzo and Giuliano de’ Medici was dramatically carried out in the Duomo, during Mass. The attempt was not entirely successful; Giuliano was killed and Lorenzo was merely wounded, and the conspirators were humiliated in facing their fates. Jacopo de’ Pazzi was flung from a window, and mobs dragged his naked body through the streets and threw it in the Arno. Francesco Salviati was hanged from the walls of the Palazzo Vecchio, and Bernardo di Bandino Baroncelli was publicly executed at the Bargello.
ith Halloween creeping (quite literally) upon us, you can’t help but wonder about Florence’s eclectic history and the sights it must have witnessed in the past. Behind the extraordinary monuments and breathtaking architecture that comprise this city, it is inevitable that a few sinister and gory sights took place. The Bargello National Museum with its gothic Florentine architecture is an ideal location for a horror film. Indeed, as one of the oldest buildings in the city — dating back to 1255 — the Bargello was not always a museum. It now holds some of the city’s most precious sculptures and treasures, including works by Donatello, Michelangelo and Cellini. However, before 1865, the building was the headquarters for the Head of the Guards, whose responsibility it was to arrest, question, and condemn criminals. By 1574, the building had been transformed into a prison, complete with torture chambers. The prison witnessed important
historical moments: sieges, fires and executions such as that of Bernardo di Bandino Baroncelli, conspirator of the infamous Pazzi plot against the Medici family. Furthermore, as a warning and reminder of the building’s purpose, apparently a tree stump would be placed outside the building displaying the victim’s head, for all to see. American writer Charles Godfrey Leland’s reports in his Legends of Florence Collected from the People (1896), that prisoners of the Bargello were subject to horrendous cruelty and maltreatment. He writes that when Cosimo de’ Medici was preparing the venom to poison Piero Strozzi, he would experiment on condemned prisoners of the Bargello. Similarly, Le Murate, a notorious Florentine location for public housing, restaurants, bars and shops and a popular social and cultural hub, is in fact another converted prison and convent. It began in 1424 as the Santissima Annunziata alle Murate and Santa Caterina convent, home to the Benedictine nuns who gave the building its name.
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20 Florence News
CITY BEAT
KSU Fall Lectures Oct. 9, 6:30 p.m.: Giorgio Ricchiuti: Technology and Labour: New challenges for Education. The current technological revolution exacerbates the debate on sustainability or complementarity among workers and machines. Nov. 6, 6:30 p.m. Allen J. Grieco (Villa I Tatti, The Harvard University Center for Italian Renaissance Studies) Wine, Wine Tasting and Doctors in Renaissance Italy Allen Grieco (Ph. D. École des Hautes Études en Sciences Sociales) is Senior Research Associate in History at Villa I Tatti (The Harvard University Centre for Italian Renaissance Studies).
OCTOBER www.florencenews.it
Jewelry and Fragrance
Flawed Female Protagonists
Meet Marco Cantini
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allets, jewelry, fragrance, handmade by a real Florentine craftsman, Marco Cantini. Marco was born and raised in Piazza della Passera, in the most ‘authentic’ neighborhood of Florence, Santo Spirito, where you can still find pure Florentines today, which seems to be an increasing rarity in this city. Since childhood, his life has been devoted to his strong passion for work. In these early years, Marco’s daily life consisted of school in the morning and working at a boutique with a craftsman in the afternoon, polishing frames and restoring small objects. He later became the apprentice of a Florentine goldsmith. “I could ‘smell’ the beauty of this noble and ancient art,” Marco says, recalling this time, “but couldn’t accede to it until I was 20, when my mentor started teaching me the medieval techniques of his job. My adventure begins here. I bought my first workbench and started creating.” But still, Marco’s curiosity was not satisfied. “I needed to know, to see, to explore. Being Florentine and a goldsmith has been really helpful in my tours and adventures. In London I worked for David Morris on Bond Street. It’s there that I was introduced to the world of international fine jewelry,” says Marco. “I under-
stood that, thanks to what I learned in my early ages, I could travel and work all over the world. And that’s what I did. I travelled to Brazil, Mexico, New York and connected my craftsmanship techniques and to the new ones I learned abroad.” Despite these travels, Florence has always been Marco’s real home. And it’s here that, back in the 90’s, he opened his first shop, with more on the way.
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Marco Cantini
Via del Castello D’Altafronte, 28/r, www.marcocantini.com
ocal authors, Jalina Mhyana and C. De Melo, will be offering a reading followed by a lively discussion and audience Q & A at St. Mark’s Cultural Salon on Wednesday, Oct. 10 at 6:30 p.m. Award-winning Oxford writer, Jalina Mhyana, will be reading from her latest book Madness and Joy as well as excerpts from her last work, Dreaming in Night Vision. Bestselling author, C. De Melo, will be reading from her new release: Ruthless: A Novel Set in Gothic Verona featuring the Ghibelline warlord Cangrande I della Scala. Both authors have created com-
plicated female protagonists who don’t always play by societal rules. They will be examining the concept of “flawed” women and their survival tactics within a patriarchal world. Books will be available for sale, and the event is free and open to all. Irish writer, Mundy Walsh, is the Director of Florence Writers (part of St. Mark’s Cultural Association) and co-editor of The Sigh Press Literary Journal. She has invited writers, poets, and artists from around the world to showcase their talent. For more information, contact Mundy at administrator@stmarksitaly.com.
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Italian artisan workmanship
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OCTOBER www.florencenews.it
Class, Luxury and Marble Meet the Tehrani family, founders of Primstone
SAMINA ABEDINI
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he story of Primestone began in 1978, and since then, the company has constantly evolved and pushed the application of advanced technology to the processing of natural stones, with a special focus on quality. Initially, founder Alireza Tehrani’s concerns were far smaller
than those of today’s multinational company. Characterized by a strong entrepreneurial spirit, Tehrani made investments to expand production capacity and buy his first quarries. Between 1980 and 1990, he took the reins of the company, flanking his father in its management. Soon after he founded Primestone, which he decided to establish in Canada, a country regarded as very
promising for the market of natural stones. The firm pillared its strategy on a brand new idea: processing Italian marble while marketing North American customers. The company is now based in Los Angeles, London, and Carrara, Italy. “I chose Canada because it was known as the the Switzerland of North America where the government supports its businessmen and citizens with security and finance. My investment would therefore be safe,” Tehrani says. In the turn of a few years Primestone became one of the largest distributors of Italian marble in the United States. Tehrani became increasingly focused on niche markets such as luxury real estate projects. Among Primestone’s clients noteworthy are the hotel chains run by US President Donald Trump. “It was a dream of mine since childhood, my dream was that of creating a demand and a niche for the most expensive and precious stone, onyx, for the high-end market,” Tehrani says. Tehrani’s business plan was simple and effective: securing and commanding the source, producing a “Made in Italy” top quality work of art and controlling demand. “I managed to put in place the Rolex of the natural stone industry, and in less than four years I was nicknamed as the King of Onyx.” Now his track record includes Onyx procurement contracts with the most expensive high rises, 5 star Luxury Hotels, and private mansions for some of the most important public figures and celebrities.
Florence News 21
DESIGN
Henry Mardirossian Walker Zanger Purchasing Manager and Daniele Milani Italian Director of Walker Zanger with AliReza Tehrani ART the CEO of Primestone
“Italy taught me to be an artist: love your product and be different was the motto. In all honesty just the word Italy made my brand name shine through,” Tehrani says. Recently, Alireza appointed his
younger brother, Amirhossein, as “trend maker.” His job is to analyze the characteristics of the American market, implement new strategies to market of luxury marble, and define Primestone’s new collection.
Paolo Carli the owener of Henraux with Alireza Tehrani owner of Primeston at Verona show
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OCTOBER www.florencenews.it
Ready for Comics and Games?
Florence News 23
EVENTS
Florence Creativity Returns Oct. 25-28
Coro Azzurre Armonie - a Lucca Comics & Games production 6:30 p.m. Inoue Azumi and Yuyu in concert 7:30 p.m. Leonardo Fiaschi & DB Day’s Band in Concert • Nov. 2 3:10 p.m. Radio Animated On Stage. Meeting with the Oliver Onions 4:20 p.m. Cartoon Music Contest The Final 7:30 p.m. An Anime Trip - Stefano Bersola in concert with the choir Animeniacs Corp - special guest Pietro Ubaldi, Luigi Lopez and Maurizio Merluzzo - a production of Lucca Comics & Games
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he largest comics festival in Europe and the second worldwide, the annual Lucca Comics & Games shows as an intense history mixing suffering and success. Launched in 1965, the Salone Internazionale del Comics (“International Congress of Comics”) moved in 1966 to a small square in the center of Lucca and grew in size and importance over the years. In the end of the 70’s, funding issues reduced its frequency to every two years, while in the 1980s it was moved to a sports center outside Lucca city walls where it remained until 1992. After the Salone internazionale del Comics ended in Lucca, city leaders launched a new convention called Lucca Comics, and in 1996 the fair changed its name to Lucca
• Nov. 3 reativity is never-ending, espe4 p.m. Radio Animated On Stage. cially at the fall edition of the meeting with Franco Fasano 5 p.m. Nerdina Comedy: Purgato- Florence Creativity Festival that is taking place at the Fortezza da Comics & Games, attracting 50,000 ry - The stars of Hokuto in concert Basso next month from Thursday, in 2002. The fair then merged with 6:30 p.m. Busker Festival winners Oct. 25 to Sunday, Oct. 28. the Salone internazionale del Com- 7 p.m. 80 want to gag The fair, now in its eighth year, ics held in Rome from 1995 to 2005, includes events, courses and exand in 2006, for its 40th anniversa- • Nov. 4 positors presenting new ideas, ry, Lucca Comics & Games merged 2 p.m. Cosplay techniques and materials, and is with the Salone and moved back to 5 p.m. Cosplay Super Heroes Lucca’s city center, with numerous 7:30 p.m. Special Cristina D’Avena an event not to be missed for all of those who feel passion in their tents and pavilions arranged in with DB Day’s Band hands and are interested in develdifferent squares within and out- 9:30 p.m. Urushi: Tradition Colors oping and investing in the art of side the walls of the medieval city. - JRock + Shamisen Last year, the festival attracted 10 p.m. Morrigan - Black Wing ‘do-it-yourself.’ Fabrics, buttons, paints, brushes, 243,000 visitors. Tour 11 p.m. Takarabune: Awa Odori - needles, threads, glues and paper will be the tools through which Scheduled Performances The colors of the party anyone will be able to stimulate his or her creativity. The cours• Nov. 1 • Nov. 5 es offered include techniques for 4 p.m. Radio Animated On Stage. 2 p.m. Cosplay painting on silk, home decor, cutMeeting with Massimo Luca 5 p.m. Superheroes Dance Battle 5 p.m. With Walt ... a Rainbow of 7 p.m. Miwa’s got talent - Miwa and ting, sewing, creative sewing, crochet, knitting, repairs, weaving Armonie - Rainbow Choir and its components
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for children and adults, creative workshops for children, bracelet making, bijoux and necklaces, processing wool, painting and so on, as infinite are the ways human creativity can express itself. One of the initiatives at the last edition that thrilled the most was the Creative Zoo, a panel to create a zoo following given patterns that can be downloaded from the fair website: www.florencecreativity.it Tickets cost €10 for adults and €6 for children. Entrance is free for children younger than 10 and for accompanies or disables. Groups of more than 10 people will pay €6, and for a group bigger than 20 people, a free ticket will be given to the organizer. Those interested in becoming expositors can find a form in the fair website. Opening hours at the event are from 9.30 a.m. to 7 p.m.
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24 Florence News
TUSCANY
300 Years of Chianti
A guide to understand Chianti Wine
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hree hundred years ago, on a Saturday, Cosimo III, Grand Duke of Tuscany, issued a decree for which Chianti wine must only be produced in the Chianti region between Florence and Siena. By that day, the attempts of rival producers to imitate Chianti and even use its label had already been too many: something had to be done, and that something was creating the first legally enforceable wine appellation. Over the centuries, Tuscany’s land and climate had
combined with methods of production typical only of the region at the base of the quality of the wine. In no place other than Chianti could such a good wine be produced. And for this reason, the Medici gave Chianti the label that our wine bears to this day. The decree defined the 175.000-acres of what still today is Chianti Classico, the area of wine pilgrims that today produces some 35 million bottles of wine per year, 80% of which exported all over the
world. Since 1716, Chianti has escalated in power and prestige to become one of the best types of wine produced all over the world. Or perhaps, the best, at least according to most Tuscans still today so proud of their most renowned product. However, the decree of the Medici was not enough to avoid some sort of brand confusion which producers have never ended battling between geographically restricted wine and the less distinguished simple Chianti made in other parts of Tuscany. In the early 20th century, when the fame of Chianti wine was increasing year by year and its production territory was no longer able to meet a growing national and foreign demand, wine began to be made outside the Chianti zone delimited in 1716, which was also called “Chianti” or “Chianti-style” wine. To defend their own wines, in 1924 makers of the original Chianti founded the Consortium for the Protection of Typical Chianti Wine and its Mark of Origin. The trademark chosen was the Black Rooster, historic symbol of the Chianti Military League and depicted by famous painter Giorgio Vasari on the ceiling of the Salone dei Cinquecento at Palazzo Vecchio in Florence. In 1932, a specific ministerial decree was issued to distinguish the Chianti made in its zone of origin by adding the adjective “Classico.” Since then, Chianti wine produced outside the geographical area has been called “Chianti” while Chianti Classico is the wine made within
OCTOBER www.florencenews.it the original production zone, the one known since 1716 as “Chianti.” Following is a guide to understand the distinctions between the various Chianti.
Chianti
Bottles simply labeled as Chianti are made from a mix of grapes from several regions in the Chianti region. The main difference with generic Chianti and the rest, is that the minimum percentage of Sangiovese allowed is 75%, with the rules permitting white grapes to be blended in. Adding white grapes to a red wine isn’t as crazy as you might think! The French have been adding Viognier to their Syrah in the Rhone region of France for decades. The reason they do so is to
soften the tannin in the Syrah, and to add what they call “aromatic complexity”. The addition of white grapes into the Sangiovese mix however, is less about romance and
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more about cutting costs. As with all Chianti’s, there are some minimum rules set, i.e. the minimum alcohol level in regular Chianti is 11.5%, and grape harvest yields are “restricted” to 4 tons per acre.
Chianti Classico
The Chianti Classico region is central to the region and arguably the most famous. In 1996 it was awarded DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita) status, in an effort to raise its perceived quality. All Italian DOCG wines are actually tasted and analyzed in a lab in order to meet government approval. Kind of like SAT exams for wine. If the wine passes, it will receive an individually numbered governmental seal across the cap or cork. Chianti Classico bears a black rooster on the neck of the bottle. This is a conglomeration of Chianti producers whom have setup the Consorzio Chianti Classico, in a bid to improve the quality and reputation of the region. The minimum percentage of Sangiovese allowed in Chianti Classico is 80%, with only red grapes permitted to make up the rest of the blend. Producers can of course choose to make their wine up to 100% Sangiovese, but it’s the exception and not the rule. The alcohol content must also be at least 12%, and the wine must spend at least 12 months aging in oak barrels. The Chianti Classico region covers an area of around 100 square miles, and the grape harvest is restricted to no more than 3 tons per acre.
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OCTOBER www.florencenews.it Chianti Riserva / Classico Riserva
If you guessed that Riserva is Italian for Reserve you would be correct! Riserva on a bottle of Chianti is your first clue that the bottle of Chianti you’re holding, stands head and shoulders above the rest. Riserva is a term that can be applied not just to Chianti, but to plenty of other Italian wines such as Brunello and Barolo. Of course, just to make things difficult, it has various meanings, but Riserva on a Chianti just means that the wine spends a minimum of two years (in oak) and three months (in the bottle) aging. The alcohol content must also be at least 12.5%. Chianti Riserva is also a great candidate for additional bottle aging, depending on the producer and vintage.
Vin Santo
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Florence News 25
TUSCANY
Asparagus and Truffle
The Vernaccia Wine
ante Aligheri, Giovanni Boccaccio, Pope Martin IV, Lorenzo the Magnificent, Michelangelo, just to name a few of the greats that praised the most famous wine produced in San Gimignano. A delicious white wine, that is even referenced in Dante’s legendary “Divine Comedy.” First mentioned in tax documents from 1276, Vernaccia is not only one of Italy’s most esteemed wines, but also one of its oldest. The wine boasts a bold straw-yellow color and a flavor that delicately combines floral and fruity. Perfectly suited for fish and white meats in particular, Vernaccia can be enjoyed even more when combined with complimenting cuisine.
Vin Santo (literally meaning “holy wine”) is a style of Italian wine dessert typical of Tuscany. Vin Santo wines are often made from white grape varieties such as Trebbiano and Malvasia, though Sangiovese may be used to produce a rosè style known as “Occhio di Pernice” or eye of the partridge. Vin Santo is described as a straw wine since is often produced by drying the freshly harvested grapes on straw mats in a warm and well ventilated area of the house. However several producers dry the grapes by hanging on racks indoors. Though technically a dessert wine, the wines can vary in sweetness levels from bone dry (like a Fino Sherry) to extremely sweet.
1/2 kilo fresh asparagus, cut into 1 inch pieces 2 scallions, chopped 2 T olive oil 3 cups arborio rice 1/2 cup Vernaccia di San Gimignano 4 cups vegetable broth 3 T butter 1/2 cup grated cheese (Parmesan or Aged Pecorino)
www.palagetto.it
A Special Guest Invited by his friend Sting on occasion of his daughter’s marriage, Dustin Hoffman came last summer to Italy and choose the restaurant Il Gallo Nero in Greve in Chianti to dine. Curiosity aroused among customers who were unsure if the guy wandering around the tables was Dustin or not. Yes, it was. And the autographs session began.
1. Place olive oil in pan with scallions and asparagus. Sauté for 2 minutes. 2. Add rice, wine, and half of the water. Lower heat and let simmer. 3. As water evaporates, keep adding more, stirring frequently to achieve a creamy texture. 4. Rice should be cooked until tender yet al dente. Add butter and cheese, stirring to distribute evenly. 5. Sprinkle generously with grated truffle.
Ristorante Il Pino Via Cellolese 6 San Gimignano 057 79 40 415 www.ristoranteilpino.it
WINEMAKER FOR A DAY Winemaker for a Day is a wine tasting course in which you also will be able to create your own, unique, signature vintage by blending up to 5 different grapes while working alongside our award-winning winemaker. Your signature wine will be shipped home for your future enjoyment.
EDUCATIONAL VINEYARD Spend a few hours in the vineyard with an agronomist learning how grape has to be cultivated. HIKing...wine...food...@monterinaldi Hike in the breathtaking landscape of Chianti before enjoying a home made Tuscan lunch while sipping the real Chianti Classico
OFFROAD ADVENTURE IN CHIANTI Discover the Chianti hills, vineyards and lakes on a land-lover. Then enjoy a homemade lunch paired with Chianti Classico More info on: www.monterinaldi.it
WINE TASTINGS IN SAN GIMIGNANO
Il Castello di Bibbione
In the heart of Tuscany, Chianti region, between Florence and Siena
Erected by the Cadolingi of Montecascioli, the Castle of Bibbione, in Chianti region, is documented in the very ancient manuscripts from the year 997 by the name of Castrum Bibionis. Surrounded by city walls, which in the past served as a final defence for its inhabitants, the Castle dominates a medieval village and ancient houses dot the slope of the hill. Its lands extend to below the Via Cassia and the Pesa River, between Florence and Siena. Castello di Bibbione Via Collina 66 - 50026 Loc. Montefridolfi San Casciano in Val di Pesa (Florence) 055 8249231 335 8106514 www.castellodibibbione.com
Via Racciano 10 - 53037 San Gimignano 334/6399484 • 0577/943090 www.palagetto.it
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26 Florence News
TUSCANY
OCTOBER www.florencenews.it
Discover Colle Val d’Elsa
‘The Italian Way of St. James’ Via Francigena, among ancient routes and modern “pilgrims”
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ver 25,000 people, half of whom are Italian, walked at least a part of the Via Francigena last year. Compared to the number of people who walked that stretch in previous years, this is encouraging — an improvement due to the increasing number of bed & breakfasts along the route and to the efforts to promote the route made by the region of Tuscany who has been trying to transform it in a sort of Italian version of the Spanish Way of St. James — but that could, and should, be improved in the future. It was this the conclusion of Italian newspaper Il Fatto Quotidiano that recently published a reportage on the route. According to Il Fatto, the potential of the route are huge and, if well exploited, could make it the Italian version of the St. James Way. First documented as the Lombard Way and then the Frankish Route in 725, according to the travel records of Willibald, Bishop of Eichstätt in Bavaria, the route was named Via Francigena in 876, given its crossing with French territories (Francia, in Italian) at the Abbey of San Salvatore al Monte Amiata in Tuscany and was used
throughout the Middle Ages by pilgrims headed to Rome from the North, particularly from France. Nearly 400 kilometers of the Via pass through Tuscany, accounting in part for the development of a number of the region’s historic settlements and trade and religious centers. Today, tourists and history buffs can enjoy the cultural mecca that is Via Francigena by following one or all of the 15 Tuscan legs, beginning with the journey from Passo della Cisa to Pontremoli and ending with the route from Radicofani to Acquapendente. The Via passes through San Gimignano and its Fortress of Montestaffoli. Originally a castle for the Lombard Astolfo and later a Dominican Convent, the fortress took on a defensive role in the 14th century while under the threat of attack from Siena.
To book a trip to the Via Francigena: www.spreadyourwings.it
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ts name means “Hill of Elsa Valley”, where “Elsa” is the name of the river which crosses it. Today, Colle di Val d’Elsa is internationally renowned for the production of crystal glassware and art (15% of world production), largely produced in the industrial lower town. The area was settled by man from at least the 4th millennium BC, but first mentions of the city are from the 9th century AD. In 1269 it was the seat of a famous battle during the wars of Guelphs and Ghibellines and in 1479 it was besieged by Neapolitan troops. From the 14th century it was a possession of Florence and the Grand Duchy of Tuscany until the unification of Italy in 1860. In the 20th century it became
an important industrial center. During World War II it was bombed by Allied aircraft. The oldest part of the town is the “colle alta”, the higher part, with a well preserved medieval center. The town developed along the river from the 11th century onwards, building an artificial canal to power various industrial activities, such as wheat mills and paper factories. The city is also famous as the birthplace of sculptor and architect Arnolfo di Cambio.
Deluxe rooms with private garden and panoramic view in Colle Val d’Elsa from €35 For info contact 349-4651605
To book a trip to Colle Val d’Elsa: www.spreadyourwings.it
Wine Tour Chianti Classico (Every day, transportation included)
FREE WINE TASTINGS IN COLLE VAL D’ELSA
ENOTECA IL SALOTTO Wine tastings
Traditional Tuscan first courses and cold cuts
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From 50 euro TRUFFLE HUNTING • WINE TOUR IN A CASTLE WALKING TOUR VIA FRANCIGENA ART AND FOOD IN VOLTERRA Via Vecchia, 3 - 53037 San Gimignano (Siena) 0577 940568 - 3393817394 www.spreadyourwings.it
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OCTOBER www.florencenews.it
Florence News 27
TUSCANY
Special Palio Runs Oct. 20
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iena will have an extra Palio this year as the town council of the city approved the decision to run a special palio to commemorate the 100th anniversary of the end of World War I last month. The ‘special’ palio will take place on Saturday, Oct. 20, at 5 p.m. The Palio began in the fourteenth century, when the districts of Siena, known as “the contrade,” began to organize public races to compete with each other. Twice a year, on July 2 and Aug. 16, Siena’s bowl-shaped Piazza del Campo is covered with a thick layer of dirt as
the historic race takes over. The first riders rode buffalos in races, called pali alla lunga, were not confined to the Piazza del Campo but ran across the city. When bullfighting was outlawed in 1590, horse races began to take place in the piazza and the race trail became circular. Il Palio is one of the few medieval festivals in Italy that has carried on its tradition throughout the centuries thanks to the tenacity, pride, and traditionalism of the Sienese people. Since 1656, the race was cancelled only once, during World
War II. Initially, just one race was held each year, on July 2. This Palio is till known as the Palio di Provenzano, in honor of the Madonna of Provenzano. The second Palio, scheduled each year on Aug. 16, began in 1701 and was named Palio dell’Assunta in honor of the Assumption of Mary. Of the original 59, only 17 contrade still exist today. Of these, only 10 are chosen to race in each Palio. The seven contrade that do not take part in the Palio are automatically included in the following one. The other three are chosen by draw. The morning of the competition begins with a special Mass to bless riders and horses, followed by a colorful parade of the members of the contrade and their retinue that ends in the Piazza del Campo. Each contrada’s participant enters the square around 3:30 p.m. The main processional starts nearly 5 p.m., when a pageant of flag-throwers bearing the colors and symbols of their districts perform in the piazza. Although a very festive event, the honor at stake is no laughing matter. Districts are known to take extra measures to prevent rival contrade from winning: especially since historical enemies celebrate as joyfully as if they themselves had won it. Cheating is commonplace since the race has very few rules: jockeys can pull, push and hit both the horses and each other, and use their whips on other com-
petitors and their horses. Il Palio is won not by the jockey, but by the horse who represents his contrada, so a horse can win without its rider if it’s the first to cross the line. The loser of the race is considered to be the contrada whose horse came second, not last. The order of the line-up is decided by lot immediately before the race, and only nine of the 10 contrade initially enter the space between the two ropes that constitutes the starting line: the 10th, called the rincorsa, waits outside, giving him yet another chance to cheat. The front rope is only dropped to start the race once the rincorsa enters the space; and as deals have invariably been made between contrade and jockeys to affect when he enters, this process can take some
time, as the rincorsa waits for a particular horse to be well or badly placed. After a rapid and intense three laps around the Campo the race is over 90 seconds later race is over, and the celebrations or lamentations begin. The winning contrada is awarded the prestigious prize of a banner, called the palio or drappellone, which is thought to bring great luck to the district that wins it, and is newly designed each year by a local artist for the July Palio, or an internationally recognized artist for the August Palio. Entrance to the Piazza del Campo - Siena’s central square where the race takes place is free before midday on the day of the Palio. For further information on the event see comune.siena.it or il palio.org.
THE LARGEST ENOTECA IN TUSCANY WINE & TYPICAL TUSCAN PRODUCTS INTERNATIONAL SHIPPING
Piazza Matteotti 18, Greve in Chianti (FI) 055853631 chianticlassicoshop@gmail.com
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28 Florence News
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OCTOBER www.florencenews.it
Twenty-one Must-See Places in San Gimignano W
ith its towers and palaces that made it the Manhattan of the Middle Ages, San Gimignano is an extraordinary example of the classic medieval town. Among the principal attractions are the Musei Civici, a complex made up of the Palazzo Comunale and the Torre Grossa, the town’s entirely frescoed Cathedral, the Palazzo Comunale (which houses many important pictorial cycles, such as the one inspired by chivalry inside the Sala di Dante, so-called for having hastened the great poet), and the Pinacoteca Civica, which showcases masterpieces from the Sienese and Florentine schools. Besides an exceptional series of 14th century frescoes that speak of love, the Torre Grossa, the tallest tower in the city, offers an amazing panorama of the Tuscan hills. Other attractions are the Romanesque church of San Lorenzo in Ponte, decorated with frescoes representing Hell, Purgatory and Heaven; the Museo Archeologico, which documents the origins of the city; the Spezieria di Santa Fina, with its precious pharmacy vases that still today hold the medicinal preparations made following ageold recipes; and the Galleria d’Arte Moderna e Contemporanea Raffaele De Grada, a gallery named after the renowned Milanese painter
who chose San Gimignano as his home, showcasing works by 20th century artists, fuelling a ‘dialogue’ between classic and contemporary art. 1) TOWN HALL (C13th) - There is a COURTYARD with coats of arms and frescoes by Sodoma. The SALA DI DANTE contains the “Maestà”by Lippo Memmi (1317). This Palace is the home of the CIVIC MUSEUM and PICTURE GALLERY with works by Coppo di Marcovaldo, Filippino Lippi, Pinturicchio, Benozzo Gozzoli, Taddeo di Bartolo, Memmo di Filippuccio, Sebastiano Mainardi, and the “GREAT TOWER” built in 1311, 54 metres in height, can be visited as part of the Civic Museum. 2) MUSEUM OF RELIGIOUS ART: paintings, fragments of stone from churches and monasteries which are now disused, silver, coral, liturgical vestments and altar frontals. 3) DUOMO or BASILICA OF SANTA MARIA ASSUNTA: sacred in 1148. Frescoes of the Sienese School: Old and New Testament (Bartolo di Fredi and “Bottega dei Memmi”), The Last Judgement (Taddeo di Bartolo), statues in wood by Lacopo della Quercia. Works of the Florentine School: S.Sebastian (Benozzo Gozzoli), Sculptures by Benedetta and Giuliano da Maiano and, in the
CHAPEL OF S.FINA, stories from the life of S. Fina, patron saint of the city by Ghirlandaio and others. 4) Romanesque CHURCH of S.LORENZO IN PONTE (1240). 5) HOUSE OF S.FINA: in which the Saint lived from 1238 to 1253. 6) OLD PODESTA’S PALACE (C12th): it was converted into a theater (“Teatro dei Leggieri) at the end of the 18th century, above it stands the “ROGNOSA TOWER” or “CLOCK TOWER” 51 metres high. 7) PROVOST’S HOUSE: “Prunella’s Fortress” dating from the 12th century. 8) ROCCA DI MONTESTAFFOLI: fortress dating from 1353, with a wonderful view over the town and the countryside. 9) CHURCH OF S.BARTOLO: in Romanesque style, dating from 1173. 10)CHURCH OF S.AGOSTINO: (1280-1298) Romanesque-gothic Frescoes illustrating the life of S.Augustine (Benozzo Gozzoli 1464-65), along with remains of 13th century frescoes, paintings by various painters (Benozzo Gozzoli, Piero del Pollaiolo, Pier Francesco Fiorentino, Vincenzo Tamagni, Sebastiano Mainardi). 11) CHAPEL OF S.BARTOLO with the altar By Benedetto (1494). CLOISTER dating from 15th century.
12) CHURCH of S. PIETRO IN FORLIANO: in Romanesque style (12th century - 13th century) 13) CHURCH OF S. JACOPO AL TEMPIO: in Romanesque style (12th century -13th century). 14) MEDIEVAL FOUNTAINS: Lombard, Romanesque and Gothic dating from 12th century to 14th century. 15) FORMER CONVENT OF S.CHIARA home of the new MUSEUMS CENTRE, including the ARCHEOLOGICAL SECTION (classical and medieval), the SPEZIERIA DI S.FINA (Herbarium of S.Fina), and the Raffaele De Grada GALLERY OF MODERN AND CONTEMPORARY ART. 16) REMAINS of the CHURCH OF S. FRANCESCO, formerly of the Knights of St. John of Jerusalem. 17) ORNITHOLOGICAL MUSEUM: collection made by the Panciatichi family, from the early 20th century, inside the Church of S. Francesco (C16th), with frescoes
October Events in Chianti
• Panzano Market
Oct. 7, 14, 21, 28 until 1 p.m. Panzano in Chianti Hand crafts, vintage antiques, produce, and typical foods of the area
• Greve Market
Oct. 6, 13, 20, 27 until 1 p.m. Greve in Chianti Organic and Artisan Market filled with goods from gardens, kitchens and workshops
• Crete Senesi Market
Oct. 14 Crete Senesi Local products such as extra virgin olive oil, wines, organic cheeses and honey, pasta, cured meats, herbal products
• Fiera San Luca
SPECIALTIES Typical Tuscan Grill Handmade Pasta
Via C. Battisti 9 50022 Greve in Chianti 0558544802 www.enoristorantegallonero.it
Oct. 13 - 21 Impruneta One of the oldest European fairs. Parade with floats, animal fair where animals are traded (18th), local artisans, seasonal foods, and music
• Truffle festival
Oct. 21, 27, 28 Montaione Florence Displays of truffles and other foods like chestnut, honey, olive oil,
cheese, etc
• Bellezza Ferita- Norcia, Earth Heart Art Quake
Until Oct. 29 Duomo of Siena Artworks that survived last year’s major earthquakes in the Spoleto and Norcia displayed along with photographs of the damage to Italy’s heritage
• Annual reveal of the intarsia marble floors
Oct. 28 Siena’s Duomo The intricate intarsia marble floors of the Duomo of Siena are uncovered for a 2 month period
• Giovanni Boldini Art Exhibition- The seasons of the family Falconiera All Oct. Musei dell’Antico Palazzo dei Vescovi in Pistoia Works done in the Boldini and Macchiaoli style for Mrs. Falconer
• Arezzo Antiques Market
Nov. 3 - 4 Arezzo Antiques Market held in Piazza Grande and throughout the center of Arezzo.
from C17th-C18th. 18) CHURCH and CONVENT OF SAN GIROLAMO run by the close order of Vallombrosa Benedictine nuns. 19) VERNACCIA DI SAN GIMIGNANO EXPERIENCE LA ROCCA: The center offers an itinerary through wine culture with multimedia demonstrations about the cultivation of vines and wine production in the territory of San Gimignano. Tasting of local wines for groups and for single visitors. 20) ANCIENT PROTECTED TREES DESIGNATED NATIONAL MONUMENTS: Celtis Australis, European Hackberry. Taxus baccata, Yew tree. 21) WALKING TOUR ALONG THE CITY WALLS TOWN WALLS (2nd circle) dating from 13th century, 2176 metres long, with Medicean Bastions (15th century- 16th century).
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OCTOBER www.florencenews.it
Florence News 29
TUSCANY
Gelato Classes with a World Champion
On Horseback in Tuscany
ON THE ROAD
F
ormer Gelato World Champion, Sergio Dondoli, offers gelato classes for adults and kids alike in his hometown San Gimignano, in the very heart of Tuscany. Gelato was invented in this region thanks to the famous Florentine architect Bernardo Buontalenti, who in 1500 amazed the Medici family with gelato made from fruit and zabaione before Caterina de’ Medici, who was married to King Henry II, and introduced this precious Florentine dessert to the Royal French Court. From here, gelato spread across all of Europe.
T Dondoli opened his famous Gelateria di Piazza in San Gimignano in 1992. In 2011, his Gelateria was the only Gelato-shop mentioned by Lonely Planet among the ten “Best Gourmet Places in the World.” In his career as a gelato-maker Dondoli has earned many prestigious awards, including the Master of Art & Craft Living National Treasure Award in 2016. Since last year, he offered his knowledge and creative energy to whoever, from all over the world, is willing to learn the secrets of preparing real Gelato.
Each class consists of an introduction to Gelato History and to its ingredients. It follows the preparation of a Fiordilatte Gelato made with raw milk and seasonal fruit. The best part of these classes is the end, when groups can eat the gelato they prepared. Via del Castello 15 San Gimignano www.dondoligelatoclass.com +39 393 5448969
his tour offered by Florence Country Life is an adventure through the lush vineyards, native woods, olive groves and rolling hills of Chianti, with a collection of breathtaking and unforgettable views in the most wonderful and romantic way: on horseback. No prior experience is needed. Before the ride, you will be given a lesson by a trained guide to become better acquainted with your horse. After the ride, you will enjoy a Tuscan meal washed down with Chianti wine and an oil tasting. If you do not want to ride a horse, you can still come and enjoy the tour with a 20% discount. So, while your friends go on the horse ride
you can enjoy snacks, wine and a nice walk around a traditional Tuscan farm. If you have never horse-whispered before, then let horses whisper to you.
Florence Country Life From € 100
(€ 80 for students) www.florencecountrylife.com info@florencecountrylife.com Tel.: +39.366.4738711 TRANSPORTATION INCLUDED
Il Supermercato... da Gustare e deGustare HOME DELIVERY SERVICE AVAILABLE Sapori & Dintorni is the new way to do the shopping: in the heart of Florence there is a place where Food, Culture and Territory meet. Get in and discover the Big Supermarket to test and taste! Inside you will find many typical products of the Italian food tradition. Buy your favorite product and taste it within the tasting area.
FIND YOUR LOCAL BIG SUPERMARKET IN THE CITY CENTER
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Sapori & Dintorni Via de’ Bardi, 45/47
THE BIG SUPERMARKETS ARE OPEN: • Monday - Saturday: from 08.30 am to 9.00 pm • Sunday: from 09.30 am to 9.00 pm
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OCTOBER www.florencenews.it
Man Ray: Wonderful Visions T
he exhibit, on display at the San Gimignano Galleria d’Arte Moderna e Contemporanea until Oct. 7, presents over 100 photos in a chronological order as part of unitary path that intends to give importance to Man Ray’s overall look regardless of the genre of photos. Born Emmanuel Rudnitzky, Man Ray was the son of Jewish immigrants from Russia who moved to Brooklyn as a child. After finishing high school in 1908, he followed his passion for art by studying with Robert Henri at the Ferrer Center and frequenting Alfred Stieglitz’s Gallery 291. Stieglitz’s photographs influenced Ray considerably, as Ray utilized a similar style and photographed images that provided an unvarnished look at the subject. The Armory Show of 1913 featuring the works of artists such as Pablo Picasso, Wassily Kandinsky and Marcel Duchamp also influenced this extraordinary artist. In this phase, which coincided with his soon-to-end marriage with Belgian poet Adon Lacroix and a growing relationship with fellow artist Marcel Duchamp, Ray’s work evolved from a Cubism to Abstract art. He soon became a leading figure in Dadaism in New York. The movement which, taking its name from the French nickname for a rocking horse, challenged existing notions of art and literature while
at the same time encouraging spontaneity. In 1999, ARTnews magazine named Ray one of the 25 most influential artists of the 20th century.
Wine Tasting
MAN RAY: Wonderful Visions Galleria di Arte Moderna e Contemporanea Via Folgore 11, San Gimignano Price: Euro 9, reduced 6 Until Oct. 26
Florence News 31
TUSCANY
Galleria Gagliardi Presents Resi and Dell’Osso G
alleria Gagliardi is presenting two new artists this fall: Danilo Martinis and Davide Dell’Osso. Martinis was born in Milan in 1976 and studied architecture and design in Como. In September 2010, he began a career as a professional artist that brought him to showcase his works in Milan, Florence, Miami, Moscow, Capri, Monaco, Amsterdam, Dubai and Mumbai. His subjects present a perfect anatomy, every position being absolutely elegant. Born in Pesaro in 1966, Davide Dall’Osso worked as a prose actor until 1999, when he
A Journey Through Human Cruelty
chose sculpture as the main language for his art. His sculptures always are projected to a defined direction, they always look for the reason of life due to their space organization and relationship with light. The Galleria Gagliardi was established in 1991, in a 400-square-meter space once used as a garage and farm machinery store. The gallery exhibits ceramic, bronze and marble sculptures; conceptual, abstract and figurative paintings as well as works in steel, iron and wood by Italian and international artists. It is located in San Gimignano on Via San Giovanni 57 and is open every day until 7:30 p.m. The website of the gallery is galleriagagliardi.com.
The Torture and Death Penalty Museum displays more than 100 tools designed to torture and kill. Some of these tools are extremely rare, dating to the sixteenth, seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. They include the notorious ‘iron maiden,’ the guillotine, rack, torture chair and the chastity belt. Also on display are lesser-known sophisticated devices, such as the ‘heretic’s fork,’ the ‘noisemaker’s fife,’ the ‘Spanish spider’, and flaying instruments. Via San Giovanni, 82 & 125 San Gimignano Open daily: 10 a.m.-8 p.m. 0577-940526, 055-940151 Tickets: Full €10 Concessions: €7; Groups: €5 www.museodellatortura.it
THE BAR DELL’ORSO IS RENOWNED FOR ITS CURED MEATS, CHEESES AND PRESERVES IN OIL
Wine Shop Bistrot
Via Vittorio Veneto 112/a 50022 Greve in Chianti Tel. +39 055 8546209 Mail: info@enotecadigreve.it Web: www.enotecadigreve.it
Via Cassia Nord, 23, 53035 Monteriggioni (Siena) 0577 305074
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Florence News 33
FOOD&WINE
Ten Days of Sweetness Eurochocolate Returns Oct. 19-28
FLORENCE TO PERUGIA EUROCHOCOLATE FESTIVAL DAY TRIPS / 1 Day Indulge in Perugia’s famous 10-day chocolate festival! Eurochocolate Festival is the largest chocolate festival in Europe Events include beer tents and delightful food, chocolate art, tastings, entertainment and chocolate spa treatments. TRIP DETAILS INCLUDES: • Journey by fully-fitted luxury GT coach • Expert English speaking escort
S
ince 1993 one of the main chocolate fairs in Europe, Eurochocolate celebrates this year its 25th anniversary with the special theme “l’argento vivo addosso” (wearing lively silver), a metaphor for this event symbolizing something lively and never stopping. A chocolate cake and 25 candles will be blown out on the fifth day of the fair. “We will retrace the steps that have made this event famous, thanks to the participation of some of the protagonists, national and international, of the chocolate world that have passed in these years for Perugia,” says Eurochocolate president Eugenio Guarducci.
A series of smaller events are scheduled within the main event. These include the “Sweet Moments,” secret and unexpected displays of art exhibits that will happen throughout the ten days of the festival; an exhibit of pictures from photographer Simone Casetta, who has followed the history of Eurochocolate through his unique lense; “Chocolate Sculptures,” a live performance display of artists making sculptures of chocolate, scheduled on the first Sunday of the festival; “The Chocolate show,” where over 140 of the most famous chocolate brands in the world come together; and “Eurochocolate World,” which showcases the various countries
Via dei Pandolfini, 26r • 347 381 8294
that produce cocoa, allowing visitors to sample flavors from around the world. One of the main attractions will be the over 13 foot long box of chocolates, containing 25 large pieces of authentic chocolate treats. The festival reminds us that “Eurochocolate is like a box of chocolates, you never know what you’re gonna get!” Making the deal even sweeter, entrance to the festival and all activities are free of charge and a “choco card” entitling visitors to discounts on souvenirs such as t-shirts, smartphone cases, mugs, and of course all things chocolate, can be bought for 6 Euro.
Meet at the Santa Maria Novella Train Station, Firenze and depart 7:30 a.m. Arrive around 10 a.m. at bus parking in Pian di Massiano, Perugia (please note that if bus stop is too busy there is a mini-metro to get into to the festival, ride is about 10-15 minute). Arrive at the main square, Piazza Matteotti, around 10:40 a.m. free time to explore the festival. Meet at 4:30 p.m. in Piazza Matteotti to head back to bus. Depart at 5 p.m. to return to Florence. Arrival in Florence around 7:30 pm. HIGHLIGHTS: • Perugia historical city center • Chocolate festival guide and map • Chocolate tastings & demonstrations NOTE: Make sure you have enough cash with you as most chocolate booths only accept cash
COME TO ONE EYED JACK ON THURSDAYS AND GET FREE ENTRANCE AT YAB!
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OCTOBER www.florencenews.it
Taste Wine with Pino In a renovated 700-year-old well
‘P
ozzo Divino’ is a witty play on words: literally meaning ‘divine well’, it also translates as ‘wine well’ when read as ‘Pozzo di Vino’. The ancient well is now the cellar that hosts Pozzo Divino’s wine tours. Dating back to 1312, the well was built to supply water through a vast system of underground tunnels and pipes to the prisoners of a local prison known as ‘The Stinche’ (now Teatro Verdi) that stretched as far as the Bargello. Pino bought the location in 2006 and restored it himself with the help of some friends. Despite its
restoration, Pino reveals that it was always his principal intention to maintain a tangible sense of history when stepping into the cellar. This is something he has undoubtedly achieved; the place is almost like a time-machine propelling you back a few centuries into a part of authentic medieval Florence – albeit in excellent condition. Pino imparts his knowledge while taking guests around the cellar, offering a range of Italian wines to sample with an appetizer of complementary regional cheeses, cuts of meats, bread, olive oil and balsamic vinegar.
Guests are offered a spectrum of Tuscan flavors to try, from a variety of the region’s renowned Chianti Classico to white wines that include Chardonnay, Sauvignon and Pinot Grigio. The wine-tasting ends with the most exclusive reds of the cellar: Bolgheri, Super Tuscan, Morellino and Montepulciano. Upon request, guests also enjoy a buffet lunch comprising fresh pasta, specialty Italian second courses, and “the best panini in the world” made by Pino himself. Pino boasts that 90 percent of the wines he holds are of Tuscan origin, and that his tours prove so popular that he often ships back boxes of the wine sampled to America in order to appease impressed customers. Those looking to take a taste of Tuscany back home can find comprehensive information on shipping zones and freight costs on the company’s website. Pozzo Divino’s wine tours can be organized for tourist groups, families and universities, and cost only €15 a head – which not only makes it an experience to enjoy over the festive season but also an ideal Christmas gift for lovers of Tuscany’s finest vintages.
Pozzo Divino Only 15 Euro! Via Ghibellina, 144/r 055 24 66 907 Open from Monday to Saturday from 4 p.m. Wine-tasting on Sundays by appointment (minimum 10 people) www.pozzodivino.it
Florence News 35
FOOD&WINE
Five Days of Wine (and More)
Merano Wine Festival to take place Nov. 9-13
T
aking place in South Tyrol town of Merano, the Merano Wine Festival is returning from Nov. 9 to 13. The five-day fair will host over 500 winemakers, about 200 culinary specialists, and 15 prominent chefs selected by the Wine Hunter Award Commission. Masterclasses will offer the possibility of a variety of guided tastings of national and international wine excellences in the effort of spreading the culture, and the cult, of wine, while the constantly expanding new sector of biological, biodynamic, natural, “orange” and PIWI wines will have a dedicated section. New this year, there will be a portion called “The Circle– people, lands, experiences,” taking place at the Piazza della Rena. There, you can hear stories of people, food, and wine based on their different territories. The grand finale will be the “Cat-
walk Champagne,” a display of over 250 champagnes by 80 of the most famous French producers. Since 1992, Merano Wine Festival has focused on the selection of high value products and, as stated in the festival’s website, is known as a “think tank,” an event aiming at the exchanging of ideas amongst consumers, producers, professionals, and opinion leaders. “It feels like yesterday, that I had the idea to transform the city of Merano into a ‘European place of raffinesse’: where past, present and future of the wine and gastronomic world find a place to confront, get to know, and meet,” said Merano Wine Festival President and Founder Helmuth Köcher. The festival will take place on four locations: Kurhaus, Promenade, Hotel Terme Merano, Sandplatz, and Teatro Puccini.
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band born under the initiative of Francesco, it includes some of the biggest and respected names on the jazz scene amongst its members. Among these are trumpeter and band conductor Fabio Morgera, who played under legendary American jazz cornetist; composer and conductor Butch Morris for 30 years in New York; Dario Cecchini, sax and leader of Italian marching band Funk Off; trumpeter Luca Marianini; trombone player Ste-
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“We never play anything recorded here” he says with a smile. The method of bridging cultures at Porto di Mare is just getting out an instrument and beginning to play. “I’d be keen to talk to anyone who is interested in playing and sharing their music with us,” Francesco says. The club has also created its own big band, the Eskimo Jazz Orchestra. An all-star Tuscan jazz
www.florencenews.it
Dine with Dante
Food and Music at Porto di Mare
s with any port, Porto di Mare-Eskimo is synonymous with exchange, correspondence, and coming and going. This year the club has an important novelty: courses of typical Italian dance Tarantella, which will be taking place on Friday night. Porto di Mare's focus on live music and cultural exchange is one that the man who started the club, Francesco Cofone, holds close to his heart.
OCTOBER
fano Scalzi and guitarist Riccardo Onori, who both played alongside renowned Italian singer-songwriter and rapper Jovanotti; percussionists Walter Paoli, ex-member of 1970s Italian jazz, progressive rock and electronic group Area, and Piero Borri; clarinet player Nico Gori; and guitarists Paolo Conte, Ivano Fossati and Riccardo Galardini – to name just (a little more than) a few.
amed after Dante Alighieri’s The Divine Comedy, a homely, rustic taverna fittingly lies on Via dei Cimatori, only a few meters away from Dante’s house. The restaurant offers traditional dishes based on medieval recipes. Some are adapted and revisited for the modern age in a way that one maintains the omnipresent feeling of Florentine history and tradition – so much so that Dante himself could walk in and dine next to you. Others are as they were centuries ago. Traditional medieval-style dishes include homemade ribbon pasta with wild boar and mushroom sauce, roast shin of pork with new potatoes and seasonal vegetables, risotto inspired by medieval Tus-
can flavors, and tasting plates of assorted cheeses accompanied with fresh fruit and jams, including the taverna’s specialty hot red pepper jam. Also serving as a wine bar and pizzeria, the restaurant offers an eclectic selection of wines from its cellar, an outdoor summer terrace, and is fittingly decorated in a medieval style with armour and banners.
Taverna Divina Commedia Via dei Cimatori, 7r 055 21 53 69
Cooking Classes In Tavola aims to spread the rich food and wine culinary traditions of Italy and the Tuscany region through an incredible variety of dishes and recipes to all interested in learning the secrets behind the traditional Italian kitchen. With this intent to promote their knowledge, In Tavola organizes several opportunities for professionals and beginners to participate in cooking and baking lessons with the guidance of professional Chefs in an individual or group setting.
LUNCH&DINNER | BEER&BURGERS | LIVE MUSIC&APERITIVO Via Verdi 47R-49R | 055 199 91 333 | www.offthehook.it
ating out can become an unpleasant experience for those who suffer from food allergies. One of the most common food allergies in the world is celiac disease. Thanks to the commitment of its owners, who have attended the courses organized by the Associazione Italiana Celiachia (the Italian Association specialized in celiac diseases), alongside a traditional menu the restaurant Trattoria Da Garibardi offers a special gluten free menu with pasta, bread, pizza, as well as many other dishes. The restaurant has a very large kitchen and special tools that allow to prepare gluten free food without any danger of contamination. Thanks to this special background and commitment, the typical, tasty Tuscan cuisine is now accessible even to those who suffer from celiac disease.
Trattoria Da Garibardi Piazza del Mercato Centrale 38/r Tel.: + 39 055 212267 www.garibardi.it
WINE ON TAP IN SANTO SPIRITO Bring your bottles and fill them directly from the barrels of Il Santo Vino, starting at less than €1.50. Patrons can choose from a gamut of Italian wines alongside selected local specialty and organic products
Opening hours: Tuesday to Sunday: 10 a.m.–2 p.m.; 5–9 p.m.
Via dei Velluti, 18/20r 055 217672 www.intavola.org
Borgo Tegolaio, 46/r Tel. 055 53 87 122 , 345 90 93 425 www.ilsantovino.it Facebook: Il Santo Vino
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Parks and Gardens Giardino delle Rose (Rose Garden)
Firenze Card Firenzecard is the official museum pass of City of Florence. The card costs 85€, it is valid for 72 hours starting from the first entrance and it allows you to enter only once into all the museums of the Circuit, to visit permanent collections and temporary exhibitions, accessing through the priority entrances and without making any reservation. Adding only 7€ it is possible to purchase the Firenzecard+ also the Firenzecard+ that allows access to the city’s public transport (Ataf&Linea buses and tram) for 72 hours giving the opportunity to benefit from the various offers of affiliated partners (Food&Drink discount, tourist services, entertainment&fun, shopping).
A green terrace with different sort of roses from all around world below Piazzale Michelangelo, overlooking the historic center of the city. Transportation: Take bus line 12 or 13 from S.M.N station Address: Viale Giuseppe Poggi 2 (near Piazza Michelangelo) Opening hours: Every day from 9 a.m. until sunset.station.
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CITY GUIDE stop ‘Ghirlandaio’. Address: Via Micheli Information: 055 27 57 402
from train station S.Maria Novella to bus stop Gioia Address: Via Federigo Stibbert, 26 Info: www.museostibbert.it/en or call 055 47 55 20
Cascine Park
Giardino Torrigiani (Torrigiani Garden)
viburnum, hydrangeas, glycines and rose trees of various species. Full ticket: €10 Address: Costa San Giorgio, 2 Information: 055 200 66 206
Giardino dell’Orticoltura Built in 1879 by Giacomo Roster for the Tuscan Horticultural Society. Transportation: Take bus line 2 from Santa Maria Novella station. Address: Via Vittorio Emanuele II, 4 Information: 055 20 06 62 37 (Tue afternoon or Fri morning)
A daytime hotspot for outdoor activities, much loved by Florentines. Every Tuesday the park hosts the city’s largest open-air market, with a very good offers on local specialties such as cheese, vegetables and honey. Transportation: Take the tram line from the Santa Maria Novella station to the Cascine stop
Bardini Gardens On the hills near Piazza Michelangelo is one of Florence’s best kept secrets. Visitors will see camellias,
Botanical Gardens Giardino dei Semplici Established by Cosimo dei Medici in 1545, this is one of the oldest parks in the world. It is currently maintained by the University of Florence and boasts a collection of carnivorous plants. Transportation: Take bus line 14 from Santa Maria Novella to bus
Frederick Stibbert Villa Transformed from a simple Italian park to a romantic English garden by Giuseppe Poggi, this outdoor space features temples, rock caves, fountains and a mysterious Egyptian temple. Entrance to the garden is free; closed only on Thursdays. Transportation: Take bus line 4
The widest privately owned garden in the city boundaries within Europe. The land was inherited by Marquis Pietro Torrigiani in the early 19 th century. He transformed the park into the ‘english style’ as fashion of the time. The garden still known as a botanical garden with great wealth of plant and tree from all around the world. It can be visited if one of the owners will accompany the visitors during their tours. Transportation: Take the bus line 11 from Piazza San Marco to bus stop ‘Campuccio’. Adress:Via dei Serragli 144 Information: www.giardinotorrigiani.it or call 055-224527
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CITY GUIDE
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MUSEUMS & MONUMENTS Cappelle Medicee The Old Sacristy, the New Sacristy, with architecture and sculpture by Michelangelo, and the Chapel of the Princes, decorated with inlaid marble and hard stones. P.zza Madonna degli Aldobrandini, 6 Tel: +39.055.294883 Hours: 8.15-17.00 Closed: 2nd, 4th Sunday; 1st, 2nd, 5th Monday of month
Galleria degli Uffizi Open since 1591, the Uffizi hosts one of the most important collections of art of all time, classical sculpture and 13th to 18th century paintings Loggiato degli Uffizi Tel: +39.005.294883 Hours: 8.15-18.50 Closed: Mondays
Palazzo Vecchio Quartieri Monumentali Residence of the Priors, the Signoria and the Medici. Paintings, sculpture, furniture and hangings. Piazza della Signoria Tel: +39.005.2768224 Hours: Sept: 9-24 - Thursdays 9-14 Oct: 9-19 - Thursdays 9-14.
Galleria dell’Accademia Michelangelo’s masterpieces: the David and the Slaves. Sculpture, paintings and casts by various artists. Via Ricasoli, 60 Tel: +39.005.294883 Hours: 8.15-18.50 Closed: Mondays
Museo del Bargello Residence of the Captain of the People, of Justice and ancient prison. Masterpieces of painting and sculpture, plus minor arts. Frescoes by the school of Giotto in the Chapel. Via del Proconsolo, 4 Tel: +39.005.294883 Hours: 8.15-17.00. Closed: 2nd, 4th Sunday; 1st, 3rd, 5th Monday of month.
Battistero di San Giovanni Romanesque temple dedicated to St. John the Baptist, patron saint of the city. Outside, the doors by Ghiberti. Piazza San Giovanni Tel: +39.055.2302885 Hours: 11.15-18.30 - Sundays, 1st Saturday of month 8.30-13.30.
Campanile di Giotto Famous bell tower, a masterpiece of Gothic architecture by Giotto, built between 1334 and 1359. Piazza del Duomo Tel: +39.055.2302885 Hours: 8.30-18.50. Closed: Easter.
Galleria d’Arte Moderna Paintings and sculptures related to the art in Tuscany from the late 18th century to the period between the two world wars. Temporary shows of contemporary art. Piazza Pitti Tel: +39.055 294883 Hours: 8.15-18.50. Closed: Mondays.Fri, Sat, Sun 9.00 18.00. Thur 9.00 - 14.00.
Cupola di Brunelleschi The masterpiece of Brunelleschi. Frescoes of the Last Judgement by Federico Zuccari. Suggestive itinerary to the top of the dome with breathtaking views over the city. Piazza del Duomo Tel: +39.005.2302885 Hours: 8.30-18.20 - Saturdays 8.3017.00pm. Closed: Sundays and Easter day.
NEW GYM NEAR SANTA MARIA NOVELLA
Cartoleria Lory Srl P.za Frescobaldi 8r 50125 055-213246 Shop.lory.net www.digital-fineart.it www.lorycad.net
Brand new gym in the heart of Florence is now open. • Fully outfitted with the latest cardio & strength equipment from Technogym • Offering a wide array of classes ranging from Zumba to Pilates, every week • All-inclusive memberships with no sign-up fees • Special pricing for students • Friendly English-speaking staff • Free wi-fi Mon. to Fri.: 8 a.m.-10 p.m, Saturday: 10 a.m.-6 p.m, Sunday: 10 a.m.-1 p.m. Via dei Fossi, 56/r 055 23 96 497
Galleria Palatina e Appartamenti Reali The Palatine Gallery occupies the whole left wing of the first floor of the Pitti Palace, which was the residence of the Medici grand-dukes. In 1828, when Tuscany came under the rule of the Lorraine, the most important paintings in the Palace, most of which had been collected by the Medici. Piazza Pitti Tel: +39.055.294883 Hours: 8.15-18.50 Closed: Mondays
Giardino Bardini These beautiful gardens, recently restored, contain many rare plants and specialised areas, such as Italian and English gardens, as well as a fine Baroque staircase, statues, fountains, a small amphitheater and panoramic views. Entrances: Via dei Bardi, 1 r and Boboli Gardens. Info and reservations: Tel: +39.055.294883 Hours: 8.15-18.30 Closed: 1st and last Monday of month.
Museo delle Porcellane Collections of porcelain from reigning royal families. Palazziana del Cavaliere, Boboli Gardens, Piazza Pitti, 1 Tel: +39.055.294883 Hours:8.15-18.30 Closed: 1st and last Monday of month
Museo degli Argenti Summer apartments of the Grand Dukes. It contains vases in hard stone that belonged to Lorenzo the Magnificent, and the jewellery that belonged to the Electress Palatine. Piazza Pitti Tel: +39.055.294883 Hours: 8.15-18.30 Closed: 1st and last Monday of month.
Museo Novecento Italian art of the 20th century, in a journey backwards from the Nineties to the first decades of the century. Piazza Santa Maria Novella Tel: +39.055 286132 Hours: Oct to March- Mon, Tue, Wed, Fri, Sat, Sun 9.00 - 18.00. Thur 9.00 14.00.
Uffizi Academy Gallery
SKIP THE LINE BOOK NOW! info@keysofitaly.com www.keysofitaly.com
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CITY BEAT
All Food Fiorentina Starts New Season
A Florentine Gift V
isconti is an authentic Florentine company which manufactures pens, watches, and other accessories. The company was founded October 20, 1988 by Luigi Poli and Dante Del Vecchio, who shared a passion for high quality pens. The luxury of the work shows in the uniqueness of each piece and the special manufacturing process. If you are looking for a memorable souvenir stop by Pinart, located at Via de’ Guicciardini, 2r, 50125 Firenze, located near Ponte Vecchio.
MARCO BRACCI
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PINART
Bring Home Organic Cotton Y
Via dei Boni 5r 334 7007714 www.leftluggageflorence.com
Via dei Boni 5r 334 7007714 leftluggageflorence.com
ou can get clothing made from organic cotton at the MP shop located on via dei Pilastri 22r. Organic cotton is not genetically modified, so it is more environmentally friendly. The growing process allows the soil to remain fertile, and it reduces the need for toxic fertilizers, making organic cotton a good choice for the eco-conscious consumer.
oached by former Italian National team player Andrea Niccolai, All Food Fiorentina Basket, an explosive mix of experience players and rookies, participates in the Italian third national league, Serie B – A Conference. After the 2018 play-off final lost with Baltur Cento (eventually promoted to Serie A2), captain Simone Berti and vice-Captain Diego Banti are ready to lead their teammates to the first regular season away game in Piombino (LI) to play against the talented Golfo Basket coached by Marco Andreazza (Sunday, October 7). Niccolai’s team will play the first home game on Sunday, October 14 at 6.00pm (vs Vinavil Cipr Domodossola), but Fiorentina’s supporters - nicknamed “Poche Presenze” - are impatiently waiting for the home game of Wednesday, October 24 at 9.00pm since the big last season rival, Paffoni Omegna, is coming to Florence. To experience the Florence basketball atmosphere and to support All Food Fiorentina Basket for the next home games, go to the San Marcellino Arena located on via Chiantigiana, 28 – bus 31 or 32 from Piazza San Marco (direction to Antella); info on the bus can be
found at www.ataf.net; further information can be found at www. fiorentinabasket.it or on www. facebook.com/fiorentinabasket and www.legapallacanestro.com/ serie-b. For additional information, news, interviews and reports, visit firenzebasketblog.it also available on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram and Youtube. This month All Food’s home games are on Oct. 14 at 6 p.m. vs Vinavil Cipr Domodossola; Oct. 24 at 9 p.m. vs Paffoni Omegna; and Oct. 28 vs Credit Agricole-Blukart San Miniato.
LIVE MUSIC AND SPORTS Via Faenza 27/r • 055 274 1571