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2019 Uffizi Exhibits • Kiki Smith. What I Saw on the Road Pitti Palace, Gallery of Modern Art Feb. 14 – June 2 The exhibition showcases 12 jacquard tapestries and a selection of sculptures that have been crafted by Kiki Smith. A radical feminist, Smith has produced works that can be found in international museums such as the MoMA in New York, the Museum of Modern Art in San Francisco, the Haus Esters Museum in Krefeld and the Fundació Joan Miró in Barcelona. She also won the 51st Venice Biennale with the installation Homespun Tales in 2005.
SPRING EDITION www.florencenews.it • Tribute to Cosimo I. The Prince’s 100 Lances Uffizi Gallery June 6 – Sept. 29
• Johann Paul Schor’s Golden Float. The Ephemeral Splendour of the Baroque Carnival Pitti Palace, Palatine Gallery Feb. 20 – May 5 The exhibit focuses on the image of the masquerade and other trademarks from the 17th century: triumphal floats, masks, allegories, explosions of color, spectacular stage designs, and endless surprises. Drawings, objects and engravings will also be on display.
• In the Feminine. Women, Social Commitment and Talent. 1861– 1926 Pitti Palace, Gallery of Modern Art March 7 – May 26 Women, Social Commitment and Talent. 1861–1926 displays the variety of talents that made women influential in different fields such as the arts, crafts, literature, and the sciences. It focuses on two main periods (the unification of Italy in 1861 and the 1920s, when writer Grazia Deledda became the first Italian woman ever to receive the Nobel Prize), and touches upon the transformation of women in the workspace while overcoming the challenges of balancing societal norms, personal space, and their role within the family.
• Tony Cragg Boboli Garden May 7 – Oct. 13 Known for experimenting with the technical and formal potential of the plastic art, Tony Cragg lives and works in Wuppertal, Germany, where he has founded the Waldfrieden Sculpture Park, a renowned centre of contemporary sculpture dialoguing with nature. Elements of Minimalism, dynamism, and the aesthetic of the machine and nature are incorporated into his artwork, resulting in an organic, landscape-inspired show.
The exhibition will showcase paintings, engravings, drawings, weapons, armour and will tell the story of the Landsknechte from a variety of different – social, cultural and military – viewpoints and of their impact on life in the city. The guards’ main duty in the militia was to defend the monarch and his closest relatives, and due to their defensive role, are depicted with their iconic weapon, the halberd, in paintings and other visualizations.
• Tribute to Cosimo I. Weaving a Biography. The Tapestries in Honor of Cosimo I Pitti Palace June 6 – Sept. 29 Tribute to Cosimo I. Weaving a Biography is dedicated to the first Medici Grand Duke’s government, The tapestries in honor of Cosimo I will showcase eight tapestries produced in two series in the Medici tapestry factory under the direction of Pietro Févère, the factory’s chief tapestry weaver. The exhibit
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SPRING EDITION www.florencenews.it will also journey through familial relationships and inheritance that consolidated the political bond between the House of Medici and the House of Habsburg.
• Tribute to Cosimo I. The Peasant and His Barrel. Divertissements in the New Garden Pitti Palace June 6 – Sept. 29 The Peasant and His Barrel was carved by Giovanni di Paolo Fancelli and may have been the first sculpture specifically made for the Boboli Garden. The sculpture was the first of a tradition of statues that relate to important themes of the time.
• Building a Masterpiece: Trajan’s Column Boboli Garden June 18 – Oct. 6 Designed to celebrate the Emperor Trajan’s military victories in Dacia, the column is a monument commemorating the technological and building skills of the Roman world. It was inaugurated in Trajan’s Forum in 113 AD. The exhibit will also showcase dozens of works from Italy’s leading archaeological museums, scale models and life-size models specially created for the occasion to illustrate the procedures involved in transporting the blocks and slabs, such as weight concerns and the various phases involved in carving and erecting the column on site.
• The Colours of Judaism in Italy. Precious Textiles and Fabrics from Ancient Jerusalem to Contemporary Ready-to-wear Uffizi Gallery June 27 – Oct. 27 The exhibit will begin with the days of the High Priest Aaron and ends with the fashions of the 20th century. Its eight sections will
provide further depth into the contemporary textile business and themes relating to the role of writing as an ornamental motif, and the use of textiles to adorn synagogues, embroidery as secret labor, and the role of women. The exhibition will also explore the role of fabric as a social statement by Jewish communities’ wealthier classes and the emancipation of Jews in the 19th century, and their role both as artists and collectors of fabrics and textiles.
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NEWS Wooden Ceilings in Renaissance Florence and Rome illustrates the coffered wooden ceilings known as “Heavens” in the Renaissance that brought Classical culture up to date in the renovation of churches and palazzi that swept Florence and Rome in the 15th and 16th centuries. It will showcase drawings of ancient prototypes such as the Domus Aurea and the Temple of Bacchus in Rome; designs by the Sangallo family, Vasari and his workshop, Michelangelo, Zucchi, Maderno and others; and the monumental load-bearing trusses. The exhibit will also include paintings, engravings, models and genuine Renaissance lacunar panels.
most important masters involved in metalworking in the early 17th century.
• Pietro Aretino and the Art of the Renaissance Uffizi Gallery Nov. 26 – March 1
• Forged in Fire. Bronze Sculpture in Florence Under the Last Medici Pitti Palace Sept. 18 – Jan. 12
• Heaven in a Room. Wooden Ceilings in Renaissance Florence and Rome Uffizi Gallery Aug. 30 – Dec. 1
Bronze Sculpture in Florence Under the Last Medici offers a complete overview of the art of bronze sculpture in the Tuscan capital, particularly in the age of the last Medici Grand Dukes. The exhibit will start with a selection of significant works by Giambologna that explore his school and the
The exhibit illustrates the main artworks produced by Pietro Aretino from his early days in Arezzo and Perugia to his arrival at the papal court in Rome and his travels across northern Italy, from Mantua sto Venice.
VALIGERIA GAZZARRINI Via Porta Rossa, 71-73R - Firenze, Italy Tel. +39 055 212747 www.valigeriagazzarrini.com
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2019 Leonardo’s Year M
ayor Dario Nardella announced last November that, besides the Leicester Codex exhibition currently running at the Uffizi Gallery, Florence will host three other major exhibitions to celebrate the 500th anniversary of Leonardo’s death next year: one on the Codex Atlanticus, one dedicated to Leonardo’s master Andrea del Verrocchio, and one on Leonardo’s botanical studies. Nardella made his announcement on occasion of the second day of the conference of the European Capitals of Culture at Palazzo Vecchio. The exhibit dedicated to Andrea del Verrocchio will be at Palazzo Strozzi. Leonardo was taken to Florence by his father to begin his apprenticeship in the studio of Andrea del Verrocchio in the 1470s, when Verrocchio was working on the bronze ball for the Cathedral.
Verrocchio’s workshop was the most important in Florence and, besides Leonardo, ‘generated’ artists such as Botticelli and Perugino. The workshop produced marble and bronze statues, painted panels, goldsmith objects, and marquetry. It was here that Leonardo, besides learning techniques that formed him as an artist, became an enthusiastic experimenter. The exhibition of the Codex Atlanticus, which will be courtesy borrowed from the Milan Ambrosiana Library, will showcase table grapes on works that Leonardo made in Florence. The exhibit will start next spring. The Codex Atlanticus, named after the large paper used to preserve original Leonardo’s notebook pages, is a twelve-volume bound set of drawings and paintings and comprises 1,119 leaves dating from 1478 to 1519. Its contents cover a great variety of subjects, from flight to weaponry, musical instruments, mathematics and botany. The third exhibition will be held during the second part of 2019 and will be dedicated to Leonardo’s studies on botany.
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Winter Fares
Uffizi Records
ith over four million tickets sold in 2018, the Uffizi Gallery set a new record for number of visitors and revenue, a spokesperson of the museum announced last January. The figure corresponds to a 6% increase of visitors and a 50.5% increase in revenue compared to the previous year. Uffizi director Eike Schmidt gave credit for this success to the new season tickets and said such results were an “exponential growth.” Florence’s most important museum hit records even in the number of virtual visitors last year. The Uffizi Instagram profile ‘UffiziGalleries’ had over 204,148 followers last fall and is now the first Italian museum in social media, ranking even higher the Venice Peggy Guggenheim and the Vatican Museum. Worldwide it is number 27, doing better than the Los Angeles Petty Museum that has 235,000 followers. The Uffizi ‘social star artwork’ is Botticelli’s Venere, with over 14,000 engagements, followed by Caravaggio’s Medusa, Artemisia Gentileschi’s Judith Slaying Holofernes, and Perugino’s Mary Magdalene. As far as engagement is concerned, the Uffizi is number 13, higher than Paris’ Louvre, Madrid’s Prado, and New York’s Metropolitan. As of last summer, the museum was second on Twitter, only behind the Milan Brera Gallery, although it was the first in Italy in terms of engagement, the frequency with
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which followers react to posts. In addition, the launch of the new official website made the museum the first in all research engines and browsers, a quite important result as the infinite websites of online scalpers are not following the museum’s official website and social media pages or accounts. As such results were announced last August, the Director of the Uffizi Museum Complex, Eike Schmidt, said he was greatly satisfied and appraised. “Our two social media and our website are fundamental tools to favor dialogues and debates on the art of the Uffizi as well as on the the life of the museum. Just over two years ago, the Uffizi did not even have a website, and now we are amongst the best among Italian museums,” said Schmidt. “It is of particular value that both on Instagram and Twitter we are able to interact with a loyal public that access our profiles even several times a day to see, and respond to, the new contents that our social platforms generate; in addition, in the case of Instagram, our public is really worldwide/global, whereas our followers on Twitter are mostly from Florence and Tuscany. Therefore, thanks to new technologies, we are contributing to make the dream of Grand Duke of Tuscany Pietro Leopoldo come true, of making of the Uffizi the “museum of the world and, at the same time, of the Florentines,” said Schmidt.
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he museums of the Uffizi Complex have introduced reduced fares from Nov. 1 to Feb. 28. The reduced ticket for the winter season to see the Uffizi costs € 12 instead of €20; entrance to the Pitti Palace is €10 instead of €16; Wednesday visits to the Pitti Palace will cost 50% less after 3 p.m. Novelties have also been introduced regarding annual visits to all the exhibition spaces of the Uffizi Museum Complex, which include the Uffizi Gallery, the Pitti Palace, and the Boboli Garden. Besides the annual card, which costs €70 and allows unlimited and priority access to all the exhibition spaces of the complex, it is now possible to buy a family PassePartout, which allows access to two adults with an unlimited number of children for €100 instead of €140 (the price of two annual cards).
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‘‘Can an Object Be the Catalyst for New Thoughts and Behaviors?’’ Antony Gormley on display at the Uffizi
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his exhibition, on display in the Aula Magliabechiana of the Uffizi Gallery from Feb. 26 to May 26, showcases works by Antony Gormley, one of the most important living British sculptors. The sculptures selected are made of different materials and scales and explore both the body in space and the body as space. At the core of the show is a dialogue between two sculptures, Passage and Room, made 35 years apart, that deal with the space of the body. Passage (2016), is a 12 meter-long Corten steel tunnel in
human form, while Room (1980), is a set of Gormley’s clothes cut into a continuous 8-millimeter-wide ribbon expanded into an enclosure 6 meters square. The show is predicated on these two works and the dialogue between stasis and movement: imaginative and actual space. “I use the indexical impression of my own living body rather than mimesis to make work that both displaces and encloses, to engage and activate attention,” Gormley once said in an interview. The exhibition also includes works
made specifically for this show such as Veer II (2018), a three-dimensional life-size cast iron evocation of a tense nervous system at the core of the body, and Breathe (2018), a large lead-covered expansion work that applies the cosmic principles of the Big Bang to the singularity of a subjective body. Departing from ideas about an exhibition as a space for aesthetic contemplation or the enjoyment of narrative or representation, Essere invites our active participation as connectors between defined objects and open space in which mass and void, dark and light, hard and soft engage the viewer’s presence in space. Antony Gormley is widely acclaimed for his sculptures, installations and public artworks that investigate the relationship of the human body to space. His work has developed the potential opened up by sculpture since the 1960s through a critical engagement with both his own body and those of others in a way that confronts fundamental questions of where human beings stand in relation to nature and the cosmos. Gormley continually tries to identify the space of art as a place of becoming in which new behaviors, thoughts
and feelings can arise. Gormley’s art has been widely exhibited throughout the UK and internationally with exhibitions at Kettle’s Yard, Cambridge, UK (2018); Long Museum, Shanghai (2017); National Portrait Gallery, London (2016); Forte di Belvedere, Florence, Italy (2015); Zentrum Paul Klee, Bern (2014); Centro Cultural Banco do Brasil, São Paulo, Rio de Janeiro and Brasilia (2012); Deichtorhallen, Hamburg, Germany (2012); The State Hermitage Museum, St Petersburg (2011); Kunsthaus Bregenz, Austria (2010); Hayward Gallery, London (2007); Malmö Konsthall, Sweden (1993) and Louisiana Museum of Modern Art, Humlebæk, Denmark (1989). He has also participated in major group shows such as Documenta 8, Kassel, Germany (1987); 42nd
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Venice Biennale (1986); and 40th Venice Biennale (1982). Permanent public works include the Angel of the North (Gateshead, England), Another Place(Crosby Beach, England), Inside Australia (Lake Ballard, Western Australia), Exposure (Lelystad, The Netherlands) and Chord (MIT – Massachusetts Institute of Technology, Cambridge, Massachusetts).
Essere
Antony Gormley Uffizi Gallery Feb. 26 - May 26
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The Three Tenors and La Traviata at Santo Stefano Church accompanies the music, as one would expect in a traditional opera house. If you’ve never seen La Traviata, do a bit of research beforehand. It will make the experience far more enjoyable. Dancers at La Traviata show are from the Florence Dance Performance school. Choreography is by Donatella Cantagallo.
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oasting an original Romanesque facade of green and white marble, the Santo Stefano Church now serves as an auditorium for musical and theatrical performances. The concert is inspired by the world-renowned ‘Three Tenors’ Luciano Pavarotti, Plácido Domingo and José Carreras. Standing atop Buontalenti’s stunning marmoreal balustrade of 1574 and accompanied by a chamber ensemble of mandolin, doublebass and grandpiano, Mattia Nebbiai, Claudio Sassetti, and Leonardo Sgroi dazzle audiences with their incredible voices. The excellent acoustics in Santo Stefano require no microphones. The three tenors perform the masterpieces which brought fame to Italy all over the world, such as some of the arias from La Traviata, Rigoletto and Tosca, as well as some of the most famous Neapolitan traditional songs. The musical program includes several operatic pieces from Verdi, Puccini, Rossini, Brahms, and De Curtis. The singers are accompanied by the flawless tunes of a grand piano, mandolin, and a double bass. The three tenors exuded tremendous energy and playfulness on stage, making the audience giggle at times with their delightful humor. Their velvety
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voices kept a full house entranced for over an hour with each selected song showing off the full potential of their collective talent. One highlight was the aria, E lucevan le stelle from the opera TOSCA, written by Giacomo Puccini. The emotion and range of this performance was truly impressive. “La traviata last night was a failure. Was the fault mine or the singers’? Time will tell.” Those words were penned by Giuseppe Verdi to a friend the day after La Traviata premiered at Venice’s La Fenice in 1853. La Fenice’s manager had insisted on giving the leading role of “Violetta” to Fanny Salvini-Donatelli, a corpulent 38-year-old woman. Although she was an acclaimed singer, the audience openly jeered at her for attempting to portray a young courtesan dying of con-
sumption. One can only imagine Verdi’s utter frustration and disappointment. “The Fallen Woman” (La Traviata) was written as a tragic three act opera based on a play, which was taken from the French novel “The Lady with the Camellias” by Alexandre Dumas (author of “The Three Musketeers”). The plot is simple: forbidden love. Violetta, a Parisian courtesan, falls in love with Alfredo, a young bourgeois from the countryside. Alfredo’s father, Giorgio, is against the relationship due to Violetta’s dubious past and convinces her to break off the love affair. Alfredo is furious and humiliates her in public. When Violetta is on her deathbed, she reconciles with Alfredo. Giorgio apologizes to her before she takes her final breath. Naturally, the music and lyrics are infused with emo-
tion to lift the soul of the listener. To experience Verdi’s timeless work in any venue is a visual and auditory delight, but Santo Stefano is a special place. The earliest mention of this Romanesque style church dates back to 1116. The original 12th century facade is comprised of white marble from Carrara and green marble from Prato. The interior was revamped in the 17th century to convert three aisles into an open space. Finally, Santo Stefano boasts wonderful acoustics. The church does not have a stage but a high altar with a stone balustrade along the front. The opera performed at this venue is mainly for listening pleasure, consisting of three talented singers – a tenor, a baritone, and a soprano – two talented musicians (grand piano, double bass), and four dancers. No elaborate theatrical performance
Feb. 2-5-9-12-16-19-23-26 The Three Tenors Auditorium Santo Stefano 8:30 p.m. Feb. 21,28 Traviata Auditorium Santo Stefano 8:30 p.m. March 2- 5- 9-12-16-23-26-29 The Three Tenors Auditorium Santo Stefano 8:30 p.m. March 7-14-21-28 Traviata Auditorium Santo Stefano 8:30 p.m. INFO & BOOKING: www.operainroma.com Email: florence@operainroma.com Cell: +39 373 774 6001 Landline: +39 055 230 2411
OPEN EVERY DAY
12:00 - 15:00 / 19:00 - 24:00 RISTORANTE PIZZERIA IL TEATRO Via Ghibellina 128/R 055 2466954 www.ristoranteilteatro.net
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Palazzo Strozzi Tributes Verrocchio, Leonardo’s Master Exhibit starts March 8
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alazzo Strozzi celebrates Andrea del Verrocchio, an emblematic artist of the Florentine Renaissance and Leonardo’s Master, with a major exhibition showcasing over 120 paintings, sculptures, and drawings coming from museums from all over the world. The exhibition begins March 8, and the museums from which the artworks on display were bor-
rowed include the Metropolitan Museum of New York, the Musée du Louvre in Paris, the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam, the Victoria and Albert Museum in London, and the Uffizi Gallery. The exhibition, which has a special section at the Bargello Museum, brings together for the first time Verrocchio’s masterpieces and works by the most famous artists
who did their apprentice in Verrocchio’s workshop, such as Domenico Ghirlandaio, Sandro Botticelli, Pietro Perugino and Leonardo da Vinci. Thanks to loans and juxtapositions, the exhibit also reconstructs Leonardo’s early artistic career and interaction with his master. Curated by two leading experts in the art of the Quattrocento, Francesco Caglioti and Andrea
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NEWS De Marchi, Verrocchio, Master of Leonardo is one of the events taking place this year to celebrate the 500th anniversary of Leonardo’s death, and the first retrospective ever devoted to Verrocchio. Born Andrea di Michele di Francesco di Cioni, Andrea del Verrocchio was a Florentine painter, sculptor and goldsmith, who became known as Verrocchio after the surname of his master. Despite the importance of his workshop, very few paintings are universally recognized as his own work. Many of his paintings, actually, created problems of attribution. Among his most famous paintings is the Baptism of Christ, now part of the collection of the Uffizi Gallery, for the making of which Verrocchio was assisted by Leonardo Da Vinci, and the Madonna enthroned with John the Baptist and St. Donato, now in the Cathedral of the Tuscan city of Pistoia. Verrocchio, who is believed to have worked also on the lavabo of the Old Sacristy in the San Lorenzo church of Florence, also made the funerary monument of Cosimo de’ Medici for the crypt under the altar of the San Lorenzo Church.
Verrocchio, The Master of Leonardo Palazzo Strozzi Open every day, 10 a.m. – 8 p.m. (Thursdays 10 a.m. – 11 p.m.) Palazzostrozzi.org
Exhibits in Italy
Picasso Metamorfosi, Until Palazzo Reale, Oct. 18 – Feb. 17. This exhibit, which looks at the relationship between Picasso, myths and antiquity, showcases about 200 works both by Picasso or that inspired him. BOLOGNA - Hokusai Hiroshige. Oltre l’Onda. Capolavori dal Boston Museum of Fine Arts, Museo Civico Archeologico, Oct. 12 – March 3. Showcases about 270 works by Japanese masters Katsushika Hokusai (1760 - 1849) and Utagawa Hiroshige (1797 - 1858), both known for their use of waves and flowing worlds. ASTI - Chagall. Colore e Magia, Palazzo Mazzetti, Until Feb. 3. NOVARA - Ottocento in Collezione. Dai Macchiaioli a Segantini, Novara Castle, Until Feb. 24. TREVISO - Da Tiziano a Van Dyck. Il Volto del ‘500, Casa dei Carraresi, Until Feb. 3.
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Water Horizons
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Nomadic Subject
Exhibit tributes Galileo Chini
he exhibition Water Horizons in Painting and the Decorative Arts, by Galileo Chini and other early 20th-century artists will run at the Pretorio Palace in Pontedera until April 28. The show was curated by Filippo Bacci and Maurizia Bonatti Bacchini. The exhibit featured Chini, one of the most important artists of International Modernism, and other artists who shared artistic experiences ranging from Symbolism to Art Nouveau, the Viennese Secession, and the suggestions of Orientalism. The theme of the exhibition was water, a recurring subject in artistic movements such as Symbolism and Divisionism. Water is a constant in Chini’s art, an element that accounts for the artist’s sense of harmony with the backgrounds of his paintings. Whether it be fresh water or an ocean, the rivers in Bangkok, Venice and Florence or the beach of Viareggio. The first room of the exhibition had the painting La Quiete, shown for the first time in 1901 at the fourth edition of the Venice International Biennale which gained Chini international success. In 1907 in Venice, the king of Siam had the opportunity to appreciate another exhibition by Chini and decided to entrust him with the decoration of the new Ananta Samakhom Throne Hall in Bangkok. The exhibition is divided into four
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Female identity through the images of five Italian photographers. 1965-1985
sections, each representing a different historical phase: Symbolism and Divisionism, water as a subject in decorative work, Orientalism, and the Secessionistic and Klimtian. Each section showcased paintings, sketches and ceramic artifacts. On display will also be works by other 20th-century Italian artists such as Plinio Nomellini, Leonardo Bistolfi, Duilio Cambellotti, Aroldo Bonzagni, and Salvino Tofanari.
Water Horizons PALP Palazzo Pretorio Pontedera Piazza Curtatone and Montanara, Pontedera (PI) Opening times: Tuesday to Sunday 10 a. m. – 8 p.m. Admission: € 8, reduced € 6
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omadic Subject is an exhibition putting together the images of five Italian women photographers that convey different perspectives on the experience, representation, and interpretation of feminine identity in a period, the years from the mid-1960s to the 1980s, of deep social change in Italy. The exhibition – which displays photographs by Paola Agosti, Letizia Battaglia, Elisabetta Catalano, Lisetta Carmi and Marianna Russo – runs at the Pecci Museum in Prato until March 8, Women’s Day. The exhibit ‘photographs’ a period of transition from radical political engagement to hedonism, in which terrorist violence conjugat-
ed with civil achievements that were brought about mostly by feminist groups. This reflection on identity and its representation begins with Lisetta Carmi’s portraits of transsexuals, in which the feminine mystique is an aspiration, and continues with Elisabetta Catalano’s images of actresses, writers, and artists; with Paola Agosti’s view of the feminist movement; with the sufferance of Mafia women immortalized by Letizia Battaglia, and concludes with Marialba Russo’s exploration of men taking on a female identity, even though just for a day, on occasion of the carnival festivities taking place in some small towns of the southern Italian region of
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Campania. The complete acceptance of female press photographers, art photographers and artists in art and journalism in Italy began in the 1960s, coinciding with the socio-political changes and the demands brought about by feminism. Although belonging to different generations, the five photographers on display catch the social transformations taking place in such a crucial period of transformation, giving rise to personal reflections on the changing image of women, feminine identity, and a sense of otherness seen through a new sensibility. The feminine image becomes a vehicle of non-bourgeois values and a vivid representation of an inner life now free of stereotypes. The title of the exhibition refers to the ground-breaking anthology of essays by Rosi Braidotti Nomadic Subjects: Embodiment and Sexual Difference in Contemporary Feminist Theory(Cambridge: Columbia University Press, 1994), in which the philosopher outlines a new sexual subjectivity that is multiple, multicultural and stratified, like the subjectivity represented in the images of the photographers of this show.
Nomadic Subject. Pecci Museum Viale della Repubblica 277, Prato Until March 8 centropecci.it
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In Memory of ‘The’ Florentine Woman
Honoring Anna Maria Luisa De’ Medici
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he Medici government had lasted more than 300 years when it finished with an act of extraordinary importance: the testament that Anna Maria Luisa de’ Medici,
better known as the Electress Palatine, signed in 1743. Anna Maria Luisa De’ Medici is with no doubt the most important woman in the history of Florence.
She had lived in Sassonia since 1691, after marrying the Elector Palatine, Johann Wilhelm II. There, in Dusseldorf, she was admired as a woman of great culture and intelligence, and transformed Düsseldorf into a lively and intellectually stimulating place. In October 1717 she came back to Florence to help her father Cosimo III and brother Gian Gastone in their delicate task of putting an end to the Medici dynasty. Gian Gastone had no descendants, and her other brother, Ferdinando, the ‘Great Prince’ as he was known, had died young and without an heir. She accepted the challenge, clearly understanding that history, a history that was to become her history, had reached a turning point. The Medici dynasty was over, but the mark that it had left on Florence could not be removed with the transition to the Duchy of Lorraine. She understood, perfectly, that a public testament rather than a private one was necessary. And the recipient of this public testament had to be Florence. Thus, she gave away the treasury of her family, on the condition that “all the furniture, items and rarities such as galleries, paintings, statues, libraries and other precious things that could attract foreigners should remain in Florence.” And they are still here, and the city lives on tourism. This why Women’s Day in Florence is, first of all, the day of Anna Maria Luisa. Because to her, more than anybody else, Florentines owe both their past and their future.
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Books, notebooks and photo albums in artisan-worked leather with handmade paper; A large selection of writing instruments from top Italian brands, including fountain, roller and ballpoint pens; Hand-painted wooden boxes and photo frames portraying details from Florentine monuments.
Open: Mon–Sat: 10 a.m.–7:30 p.m.; Sun: 11 a.m.–7 p.m.
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Showcasing Models of Leonardo’s Designs T
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he exhibit presents working models of Leonardo’s designs that the Niccolai family has been reconstructing since 1995, when Carlo Niccolai dedicated himself to working full-time with the desire to realise Leonardo’s legacy. His passion founded the Niccolai Collection, the largest private collection of Leonardo models in the world, comprised of more than 300 working models created by himself and his sons, together with a team of artisans, engineers, historians and architects. The models have been displayed at more than 100 international exhibitions throughout Europe and as far afield as Australia, New Zea-
land, China, the US, Brazil, Saudi Arabia and Finland. The exhibit also displays copies of six codices that reveal the inner workings of this great man’s mind. The Niccolai family has been widely praised for their ongoing devotion in realising the vast inheritance that Leonardo left to science.
Le Macchine di Leonardo da Vinci Via Cavour 21 www.macchinedileonardo.com
Genius’ Room
he ‘revolution’ of the Uffizi Gallery continued last year as three of Leonardo da Vinci’s greatest masterpieces, previously housed in separate rooms, are now on display together in a room dedicated exclusively to Leonardo. The three paintings – the recently restored Adoration of the Magi, The Annunciation, and The Baptism of Christ (which Leonardo painted together with Verrocchio) – are now housed in one same room to bring out “the fullness of the forms that are so typical of Leonardo’s style,” said the great promoter of this revolution, Uffizi director Eike Schmidt, at the inauguration of the new arrangement. The room dedicated to Leonardo completes a triptych highlighting the museum most important works, together with two other arrangements, one with Michelangelo’s Doni Tondo and the masterworks of Raphael, and the eight-room section dedicated to the works of Caravaggio. Schmidt also said the next development will be this coming fall with the opening of new rooms dedicated to 16th-century Venetian artists including Giorgione, Tintoretto, Tiziano, Bernardo Licinio, and others. The new room showcasing Leonardo’s works was set up as part of the celebrations for the 500th anniversary of his dead.
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Leonardo’s Florentine Steps
lorence is not home to many works of art by Leonardo. However, those present are fundamental to understanding him. Here are are a few steps in Florence to explore the personality of this genius of History.
things, the documentation of the life and works of Leonardo. The museum also provides a rest stop, the Caffè Michelangiolo, included in the entrance fee to the exhibition, and a bookshop rich in publications and gadgets.
Uffizi Gallery
For further information see: www. museoleonardodavincifirenze. com/2/
The Uffizi offers a room completely dedicated to the artist, including the paintings The Baptism of Christ, The Adoration of the Magi and The Annunciation. In The Baptism of Christ you can see the hand of Leonardo at the age of 16, when he was part of Verrocchio’s workshop. The Adoration of the Magi testifies of Leonardo’s originality in drawing, while in The Annunciation we see his first optical illusion.
The Leonardo da Vinci Museum Located on Via Cavour 21, this exhibition is composed of more than 50 functioning models that spread across four areas: a large hall, in which you can find his civil engineering machines, one dedicated to his flight machines, another to machines of war and, most recently, one showcasing a collection of anatomic models. At the museum it is also possible to picture, in the grand scheme of
Fiesole Historically, the Parco di Montececeri owes its notoriety to the fact of having been chosen by Leonardo da Vinci in 1506 as the starting point for his experiment with his ‘flying machine.’ Inside the park, in memory of the first-ever attempt to fly, stands a monument that carries Leonardo’s epigraph. The monument is located in a small panoramic stopping point where Leonardo’s machine first took flight. The Parco di Montececeri has its two main entrances at Borgo di Maiano and Via di Doccia. From Maiano you proceed straight along until you find the first abandoned stone quarries on your left; at a certain point, you pull away from the left onto a sharp rise and a path that winds up to the point where Leonardo experimented with flight.
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Pino Trademark
he Frittelli Art Gallery is presenting the exhibition Pino Trademark: Graphic Works by Pino Pascali, one of the most renowned ITalian contemporary artists, from Dec. 20 to Feb. 9. Curated by Roberto Lacarbonara, the exhibit derives its name from Pascali’s bizarre signature of a letter he once sent to a gallery owner thanking him for showcasing his works. Pino Trademark is also an ironic allegory of the artist’s vision of America – often critical and sarcastic of its capitalist hegemony – to whose graphic models Pascali inspired his research, especially in relation to new stylistic solutions for his ad campaigns. Throughout all the 1960s, Pascali’s visual research, in fact, gave birth to the Italian way of advertising. Most of the works on display at the Frittelli Art Gallery – drawings, collages, emulsions, finger paintings, and mixed tech-
niques – relate to Pascali’s research of moving logos. Among the works on showcase are also two of the artist’s most famous video commercials: The Killers, proposed to a large Italian ice-cream company and developed by the artist after the company’s refusal, and Cirio, a video in which the artist re-interprets the famous Neapolitan masks Pulcinella and Pazzariello. Pascali’s career as an artist was shor
Pino Trademark: Graphic Work Frittelli Contemporary Art Gallery Via Val Di Marina (Novoli area) Until April 10
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Il Ponte Presents Nagasawa
Frittelli Art Gallery presents Pascali
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he contemporary art gallery Il Ponte presents the exhibition Hidetoshi Nagasawa. Sculpture in the 1970s from March 1 to May 10. The exhibit tributes an artist recently passed away, with whom in the recent past the gallery collaborated in quite a few occasions beginning with the 2005 exhibition Interference. The exhibition is centered upon a rare and important set of works made in the 1970s including Colonna (1972) and Viti di Bagdad (1975).
Nagasawa arrived in Italy in 1967. Here, he matured as an artist. His most important sculptures, which often found their way of expression in the minimal reliefs of the surface, were made between 1969 and 1979. The idea that the work must take on body and soul, in a close relationship with the environment, is of fundamental importance in Nagasawa’s art. As Francesco Poli wrote, Nagasawa’s sculptures originate from a meditated strategy of involving the space aesthetically activated by the staging of installations, elaborated to a greater or lesser degree, made up of elements that maintain their primary expressiveness and function as catalysts and generators of physical and mental tensions. The result is a new dimension characterized by a sense of suspension and lightness, by a sober and refined elegance of plastic constructions that intertwine different materials (wood, stone, marble, iron, and other metals such as copper and brass) with depths and conformations that also include the presence of living plants. Hidetoshi Nagasawa was born in Tonei, Manchuria in 1940. After his graduation in Architecture and Interior Design at the Tama Daigaku in Tokyo in 1963, he moved to Milan and came into contact with Castellani, Fabro, Ni-
gro, Trotta and Ongaro. in 1992 he took part in the 9th Documenta in Kassel and in the 1993 Venice Biennale with his own room in the Padiglione Italia.
Hidetoshi Nagasawa. Sculpture in the 1970s
Via Ghibellina 178/r • 055 www.ristoranterubaconte.it Via Ghibellina 178/r • 0552645411 2645411 •• www.ristoranterubaconte.it
Il Ponte Art Gallery Via di Mezzo 42b galleriailponte.com
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The Art of Fresco Painting
And the mission to keep this tradition
C. DE MELO
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nce upon a time, vibrant frescoes adorned the walls and ceilings of churches and noble residences of Europe. Today, this tradition has all but faded into irrel-
owned a sculpting and painting bottega in Florence until 1929. After WWII, he left Italy, never to return. Emanuele decided to follow his artistic dreams and eventually learned fresco painting from several well-known masters. Today, he is sharing his knowledge through informative hands-on workshops and public demonstrations. In today’s eco-conscious world, fresco painting is a wonderful option for those seeking natural and organic materials. This being said, there is a limited number of pigments allotted for creating colors. Emanuele’s goal is to unite his knowledge of architecture with his passion for art to implement frescoes in modern interior design. The best method of fresco painting, known as Buon Fresco, involves painting on a thin layer of wet plaster. The plaster reacts with the air while drying, causing a chemical reaction known as carbonaration. Pigments are then affixed to the plaster’s surface in a protective crystalline mesh known as “lime crust.” This is why so many frescoes have withstood the test of time, lasting several decades, if not centuries. Naturally, durability of
evance. Fortunately, a Florentine Master by the name of Emanuele Capozza is fighting to keep this beautiful technique alive. A classically trained architect, Emanuele’s passion and talent for art runs in his blood. At the turn of the last century, his great uncle
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a fresco depends on many factors such as weather conditions and location. The artist must complete the painting before the plaster dries, which may prove challenging for beginners. Depending on the type of plaster, drying times can vary between two and five hours. For this reason, a larger composition like a wall mural must be done in small sections. Emanuele uses the same exact techniques and materials once employed by Renaissance masters. Tour guides and travel agencies wishing to provide their groups with a unique and authentic Florentine experience, morning demonstrations are offered in Emanuele’s spacious studio in the iconic Santa Maria Novella courtyard. Participants will complete
and take home a small fresco that they paint themselves. For those interested in attending an actual workshop, please contact Emanuel directly. He also does portraiture on fresco via private commission. Emanuele’s studio: Piazza Santa Maria Novella, 18 Email: emanuelecapozza.arte@ gmail.com
C. De Melo Author & Artist www.cdemelo.com Author of: SABINA: A Novel Set in the Italian Renaissance (available on Amazon.com)
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Korea Film Fiesole Commemorates Festival Its Anti-fascists Returns
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he 17th Florence Korea Film Fest returns to Florence March 21-28 at at the Cinema La Compagnia. The films played will provide the audience with a glimpse into both Korean cinema and society. One of many attractions this year is the presence of actor Jung Woosung, who will be tributed for his performances in the movies “Beat” (1996), “A Moment to Remember” (2004), “Scarlet Innocence” (2014), “Asura: The City of Madness” (2016), and “Illang: The Wolf of Brigade” (2018). The festival has four themes. The first is Korean Horizons and is dedicated to the personalities of Korean cinema that have set box office records and earned awards. The second is called Independent Korea and tributes emerging directors and producers. The third is called Horror Night, and the fourth is about short films that have been displayed at recent Korean festivals. A total of 45 movies will be projected.
Korea Film Festival La Compagnia di Firenze Via C. Cavour, 50/R. March 21-28
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he city of Fiesole presents an exhibition celebrating the Monument to the Three Carabinieri, an imposing bronze sculpture created in 1964 by Marcello Guasti for the town’s new panoramic terrace designed by architect Giovanni Michelucci. The work was made in honor of three carabinieri - Alberto La Rocca, Vittorio Marandola and Fulvio Sbarretti - who helped anti-fascist partisans in the fight against the occupying German troops during the Second World War. The Nazis killed the three in the summer of 1944. The exhibit, titled Marcello Guasti, Giovanni Michelucci, and the Monument to the Three Carabinieri, begins on Feb. 17 in the Sala Costantini. The first part of the exhibition is called “The Genesis of
SACI Presents Lerato Shadi
the Monument: ‘The Leap towards the Infinite.’” The second part, called Guasti and his Contemporaries: A Dialogue with the Antique, will begin in May. The exhibit runs until Sept. 30. With this event, Fiesole commemorates the three antifascist heroes while also paying homage to Giovanni Michelucci, one of the most important Florentine architects of all times, and Marcello Guasti, one of the most acclaimed Florentine sculptors of the postwar period, who died last January.
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s part of the fourth edition of Black History Month Florence, Studio Arts College International presents a site-specific installation by Lerato Shadi. The exhibit, which runs until March 3, engages questions of visual literacy and the decolonization of canonical lenses of interpretation. Composed of two dialectical neon signs, the work is flanked by a 2018 performance based video Re Maotwana in collaboration with choreographer Sello Pesa. In keeping with the theme of the 2019 edition of BHMF, Adagio the installation invites an attentive and reflective viewership to contemplate the complexities of historical amnesia and inverted
paradigms. Lerato Shadi lives and works in Berlin. She studied visual art at the University of Johannesburg and was included in ‘The Generational’ Younger Than Jesus artists-directory published by the New Museum, New York, in 2009.
Lerato Shadi LEFA LE SACI Gallery Palazzo dei Cartelloni Via Sant’Antonino, 11 Until March 3
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Survive Culture Shock
A guide to Italy’s surprises, contrasts and chaos
turies and it is easy to see why. It is almost impossible not to fall in love with this uniquely seductive country, justifiably well-known for its scenic beauty, artistic treasures, incredible food and wine, and iconic historical and cultural heritage.
SARAH HUMPHREYS
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talia! Oh Italia! Thou who hast the fatal gift of Beauty”: Byron’s tribute to il bel paese still rings true today. Italy’s magnetic charm has been attracting visitors for cen-
Italy is full of surprises, contrasts and chaos; not least for those who are visiting for the first time. Many aspects of Italian life – ranging from eating times, ‘rules’ about drinking coffee, trying to cross the road, and dealing with unwanted attention – can be a real culture
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CITY BEAT shock. Culture shock can be defined as ‘emotional disorientation caused by continuously unexpected reactions to the new culture.’ Culture shock can manifest itself in various ways, including anxiety, depression, loneliness, migraines and lack of energy. It is described as having four stages: the Honeymoon Period, Crisis Period, Adaption Period and Stabilization Period. Psychologists say that all fours stages must be lived through to achieve intercultural competence. Apart from being overwhelmed by the exquisite food and wine, musical language, natural beauty and (mostly) lovely weather, the newcomer to Florence also risks being infected by ‘Stendhal Syndrome’, so-called after the 19th-century writer: a psychosomatic condition that causes rapid heartbeat, dizziness and even hallucinations after an individual has been exposed to an ‘overdose’ of beautiful art. Doctors at Santa Maria Nuova regularly admit tourists suffering from ‘mental imbalances’, often after visiting the Uffizi, which is considered a particularly ‘dangerous’ spot. One theory is that viewing so much culture can bring on feelings of anguish and insecurity. On recovering from an overdose of art, beauty, ice cream and fine Chianti, reality starts to kick in. As the ‘romantic’ Honeymoon period comes to an end, less positive aspects of Italian life will start to become more obvious. Feelings of anger and frustration are quite normal at this point. Nowhere is this more obvious than dealing
with anything connected to any kind of documenti, work permits, banking or transactions at the post office. You will just have to get used to standing in queues for hours (make sure you check that you’re in the right one) before being practically ignored by a bored, power-crazed official with no concept of service. Bureaucracy is quite simply a nightmare. You need an enormous amount of patience to deal with these situations, no matter how long you stay in Italy. Once you begin to get used to rude shop assistants, insane driving, triple parking, not drinking cappuccinos after dinner and shops closing over lunchtime, the Adaption period begins and Italian life will begin to seem normal. After adjusting and adapting, it is usual to begin to feel at home. Learning Italian is a crucial step in fitting in and understanding the culture. After going through culture shock, psychologists say that you develop greater empathy for your surroundings, are able to think in a new cultural frame, have greater cultural patience and develop a more critical mind to see through myths and prejudices. As a foreigner living in Italy, you are allowed, or even expected to be different and even a little eccentric. In the words of American writer Erica Jong, “What is the fatal charm of Italy? What do we find here that can be found nowhere else? I believe it is a certain permission to be human, which other places, other countries, lost long ago.”
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10 Tips for New Arrivals
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A guide for adjusting and thriving in Florence
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n the labyrinth of narrow streets and foreign road signs, Florence can seem like a daunting place for anyone setting foot here for the first time. Naturally, those who are newly arrived come across hurdles as they attempt to get familiar with the city. To avoid the dangers of the first period, here are a few tips. GET LOST: Take a stroll off the tourist-beaten path. Wandering through side streets by foot is one
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of the best ways to get to know the city. You’re more likely to find authentic Italian craft and food shops this way, rather than sticking to the city center. Pack a camera, some cash and leave your worries behind. Don’t fret. All roads (eventually) lead back to the Duomo. ALWAYS KEEP TRACK OF YOUR BELONGINGS: Florence is not a dangerous city but pickpocketing
can occur, so you stay mindful. Don’t leave your important personal belongings unattended when you are in a bar, pub or restaurant; always keep an eye on your purse and always keep it close. KNOW HOW TO FIND A DOCTOR. If you find yourself in need of medical assistance while in Florence, you can find English-speaking doctors by calling 055/475411. The call service is active 24-hour a day. The Medical Service Center is in Via Roma 4, very close to the Dome and to Piazza della Repubblica. Website is www.medicalservice. firenze.it KNOW WHERE TO FIND A BIG SUPERMARKET: It is not easy to find big supermarkets in Florence. However, CONAD SAPORI & DINTORNI are three large supermarkets in the city center that offer typical Italian products and a wide selection of wines. The CONAD SAPORI & DINTORNI for those living near the Ponte Vecchio, in Santo Spirito or in Santa Croce is on Via de’ Bardi, near the Ponte Vecchio. For those living near the train station the CONAD SAPORI & DINTORNI is on Largo Alinari at the end of Via Nazionale, very close to the station. The third big supermarket is very near the Dome, in Borgo San Lorenzo. SPEAK THE LANGUAGE: It’s easy to get by in Florence without speaking Italian, but challenge yourself - it’s worth it! In stores, clerks tend to respond in English if they realize that it is your na-
Florence News 19
CITY BEAT tive language, but be persistent. Gesture. Practice. Meet the locals. Pick up a newspaper, magazine or even a brochure written in Italian and see how much you can understand. Underline the words and phrases you haven’t learned yet and look them up! SOME MORE LANGUAGE ADVICE: Just to make learning a foreign language a little bit more challenging, Italian has several words that look and sound like the English equivalent but have completely different meanings. For example, a ‘libreria’ is an Italian bookshop, not a library, so be sure to pay for your books or you could find yourself in a bit of a sticky situation. The importance of accents should also be noted: by forgetting to stress the ‘o’ in ‘casinò’ you are referring to a brothel, not a gambling house! EAT LIKE A LOCAL: Americans are accustomed to fast food. We like our coffee on the go; sandwiches ordered, prepared and consumed in the passenger seat of our cars in under five minutes. While in Florence, you should eat like the locals: take the time to eat. Sit (or stand) at a bar to drink your cappuccino. Enjoy it. You might find the change of pace relaxing. When you’re out to eat for dinner, appreciate the multi-course meal. No more of the take-home doggy bags! Portions are smaller here and you’ll notice that food is made for quality, not quantity. Embrace the fact that you’re eating the most delicious Italian food, and remember to take
time to enjoy it. When looking for a sandwich shop, avoid the prepared sandwiches on display. For the freshest ingredients, find a place that will make your sandwich when you order. A tip for gelato lovers: stay away from the foot-high rainbow mounds of ice cream. They are that bright for a reason. They aren’t as natural and definitely not as fresh. DRINK LIKE A LOCAL: Wine is part of Italian culture and is to be enjoyed and appreciated, not abused. Italians will laugh at anyone they come across drinking on the streets, so pace yourselves. Sit at a table and drink for pleasure as opposed to bingeing! TAKE ADVANTAGE OF THE TREASURES OF TUSCANY: To live like a local, you have to know your location. While it’s exciting and rewarding to travel all over Europe during this time, check out what Tuscany has to offer! A lot of activities and trips can be done in a single day, by train or by bus. STAY POSITIVE: Not everything goes according to plan, but it’s you who determines the outcome of the situation. A bad attitude isn’t going to get you far, with either locals or other students you meet. By keeping an open mind, you’re more likely to absorb the culture and take away more from your experience. Understand that you will be challenged linguistically, intellectually and morally, and recognize that it’s all part of the adventure.
Rex is another thing altogether�
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Mimosa Flower and Social Change The historical roots of Women’s Day
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luffy yellow mimosa flowers pinned to lapels, carried in bouquets or decorating table-tops announce in more than 100 countries all over the world the international day dedicated to women. But what are the historical roots of this celebration day and what is its real significance? The mimosa flower has become the symbolic gift to offer to Italian women on this day known to Italians as the Festa della Donna. A
holiday that today would appear to be about light-hearted socializing with female friends it is actually a day of commemoration with a politically charged history tied to the international Socialist movement for fair labor practices. In the early 1900s, oppressive, unsafe work conditions and inequality in the workforce were at their height, while Socialist Party movements for change, such as campaigns for equality, suffrage
and better working conditions, were thriving. In these early years of the twentieth century, against a backdrop of the fight for equal rights, International Women’s Day was commemorated on various spring days, but never on March 8. It wasn’t until 1910, during an international Socialist meeting in Copenhagen, that an International Women’s Day was officially established. The proposal was met with unanimous approval by represen-
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CITY BEAT tatives of more than 100 women from 17 countries, on the grounds that it would be a day to celebrate the progress made by women over the years. The movement for fair and safe labor practices gained momentum after the event known as the Triangle Shirtwaist factory fire on March 25, 1911, in which 146 employees of the Triangle Shirtwaist company died, the majority of them women and including many young immigrants from Europe. Some workers died in the fire and others from jumping out of windows to escape. Later testimony revealed the insufficient escape routes for workers and rumors spread that doors to the factory had been in-
It wasn’t until 1910, during an international Socialist meeting in Copenhagen, that an International Women’s Day was officially established. tentionally locked. After the fire, groups such as the International Ladies’ Garment Workers’ Union, which had in the two years prior to the fire been organizing with New York City garment workers, grew in number and influence. In discussions of the Festa della Donna, the Triangle Shirtwaist fire represents
the culmination of the women’s rights movements around the world, and is one of the specific events remembered on this day. In Italy, the tradition of giving a mimosa flower on March 8 began during the WWII years. On March 8, 1945, Women’s Day was celebrated to honor freedom in liberated Italy, and the following year throughout Italy the mimosa appeared as a symbol of this day, most likely because the mimosa blooms in early March. Three Italian women who were participants in anti-Fascist politics (and two of whom were active partisans) are credited with the idea. They are Teresa Noce, Rita Montagnana, and Teresa Mattei. Lingering leftist associations with Women’s Day provoked reaction in the Cold War climate of 1950s, spurring some to indict the mimosa-gifting tradition as a “public disturbance.” Attempts were made in Italian Parliament to make the Festa della Donna a national holiday, but failed. In the 1970s, the feminist movement in Italy brought about a rebirth of the mimosa as symbol of women’s solidarity. In addition to celebrating with female friends, Italians might observe March 8 by serving a torta mimosa, a yellow cake very similar in appearance to the flower. Restaurants, bars, and nightclubs will offer Women’s Day specials, and many museums and galleries offer free entrance to women. Political rallies and protests have left space to a much more feminine approach.
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A Florentine St. Patrick’s Day
n Irish festivity that Florence is preparing to celebrate. It is St. Patrick’s Day, a very special occasion to connect locals with the increasing foreign community, prevalently English speaking, living in or just visiting the city. But do Florentines, and generally Italians, really celebrate this festivity in the proper way? Well, the best answer to the question is that only few Italians do celebrate it while the number of Florentines taking the opportunity for a night of party out is constantly increasing, maybe due to the particular kind of city they live in where English often seems to be the first spoken language and Italian the second. Yet, and of course, Florentines do not celebrate St. Patrick’s the same way as the Irish or the Irish-Americans do. Yet, St. Patrick of Ireland is one of the world’s most popular saints. He was born in Roman Britain and when he was a teenager he was captured by Irish pirates during a raiding party and taken to Ireland as a slave to herd and tend sheep. At the time, Ireland was a land of Druids and pagans, but Patrick turned to God and in his memoir, The Confession, he wrote: “The love of God and his fear grew in me more and more, as did the faith, and my soul was rosed, so that, in a single day, I have said as many as a hundred
prayers and in the night, nearly the same. I prayed in the woods and on the mountain, even before dawn. I felt no hurt from the snow or ice or rain.” Patrick’s captivity lasted until he was twenty, when he escaped after having a dream from God in which he was told to leave Ireland by going to the coast. There he found ricus, and he carried many letters, and he gave me one of them. I read the heading: ‘The Voice of the Irish.’ As I began the letter, I imagined in that moment that I heard the voice of those very people who were near the wood of Foclut, which is beside the western sea-and they cried out, as with one voice: ‘We appeal to you, holy servant boy, to come and walk among us.’” The vision prompted his studies for the priesthood. He was ordained by St. Germanus, the Bishop of Auxerre, and was later ordained a bishop and sent to take the Gospel to Ireland. Patrick arrived in Slane, Ireland on March 25, 433. There are several legends about what happened next, with the most prominent claiming he met the chieftan of one of the druid tribes, who tried to kill him. After an intervention from God, Patrick was able to convert the chieftain and preach the Gospel throughout Ireland. There, he converted many people -eventual-
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CITY BEAT Tips for mobike 1. To begin your journey, download the Mobike app from the app store. 2. Create an account. 3. Using the app, locate Mobikes in your area. This is incredibly easy because there is almost always a Mobike close by. 4. Pick a Mobike and unlock it by scanning the barcode with the app. 5. The bike will unlock and you will hear a beep. 6. After you bike to your desired destination, park your Mobike without worrying about finding a bike rack. 7. Park your bike wherever (but be responsible and use your common sense!). 8. Manually close the lock. You will hear a beep.
ly thousands - and he began building churches across the country. Patrick preached and converted all of Ireland for 40 years. He worked many miracles and wrote of his love for God in Confessions. After
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years of living in poverty, traveling and enduring much suffering he died March 17, 461. Harats Irish Pub in Via Ghibellina is organizing a special party to celebrate St. Patrick’s Day.
9. You will be charged 30 cents for 30 minutes (the price will soon go up!). 10. Celebrate. Hurray, your Mobike journey is complete!
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Fantasy, Fairytales and Frolics
Venice Carnevale returns from Feb.16-March 5
very year Venice celebrates its Carnevale with sumptuous masked parades, boat pageants, street theater, performance art and the traditional Festa delle Marie. The tradition of the Carnevale recalls the wonder of nature with fairy tales drawn from all over the world, highlighting Venice’s role as
a crossroad of cultures. It is seen as a gateway between the East and West, where myths – and fears – of monstrous creatures from overseas creatures were translated into tales, paintings and decorations along the canals and roads scoured by merchants. San Marco will play host to daily parades, multi-lingual comedians
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and a Best Masked Costume contest voted by the public, while the city’s stone-and-water street-scape is transformed into a magical forest of trees, plants and a musical backdrop. The symbol of Carnevale – the handcrafted mask – will be celebrated this year with an inaugural competition open to national and international contenders culminating in an award ceremony and parade. The fifteenth-century tradition of the codega – a servant who escorted Venetian nobles at night with a lantern – is reprised with Walking Theater’s ‘Secrets of
Carnevale is derived from the two latin words carnem and levare meaning a farewell to or removal of meat.
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Venice’ tour, which will take visitors to secret corners narrating the history and the legends of the city. The traditional Festa delle Marie is scheduled on Feb. 23 with the usual parade of 12 girls recalling the homage that the Venetian Doge paid to 12 of the city’s chaste maidens with the offer of jewels as a bridal dowry. Although Carnevale is first mentioned in historical documents dating back to 1092, its establishment as an annual event is
believed to have begun with the Republic of Venice’s victory over Ulrich II of Treven in 1162, which required him to pay an annual tribute to the city in the form of 12 loaves of bread, 12 pigs and a bull. The animals were slaughtered to commemorate the victory around the period of Shrove Tuesday, the day preceding the 40-day Christian period of abstinence known as Lent. This confluence of the sudden excess of meat with the onset of the Lenten fast meant that speedy consumption was necessary, and here are probably the origins of the term ‘carnevale,’ which is believed to derive from the two Latin words carnem and levare, which signify a farewell to meat.
THE BAR DELL’ORSO IS RENOWNED FOR ITS CURED MEATS, CHEESES AND PRESERVES IN OIL
SPECIALTIES
Carnevale has become synonymous with overindulgence and merry-making. The celebrations in Venice draw three million visitors each year.
Carnevale of Venice Feb.16- March 5 www.carnevale.venezia.it
SNACK BAR ANNA THE BAGEL POINT Perfected specialty since 1990, Snack Bar Anna offers homemade bagels and sandwiches that make it one of the most popular among local Americans. Have a chat with Anna and Stefano while drinking a jumbo cappuccino and enjoy the no-charge table service that renders this spot hospitable, friendly, and a must go. Opening hours: Mon. to Sat.: 8:30 a.m.–7:30 p.m.
Typical Tuscan Grill Handmade Pasta
Via C. Battisti 9 50022 Greve in Chianti 0558544802 www.enoristorantegallonero.it
the Enduring symbol of Carneval is the handcrafted mask
Via Cassia Nord, 23, 53035 Monteriggioni (Siena) 0577 305074
Via de’ Ginori, 26/r 055 23 81 143 miranna.lomartire@gmail.com
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Florence News 25
CITY BEAT
Color, Size and Satire
Preparing the floats for the Carnevale of Viareggio
Parades From Feb.9 to March 5, Viareggio transforms into the factory of fun with parades of giant paper-night parties, fireworks, masked balls, theater, culinary events and big sporting events worldwide. The triple cannon is the unmistakable signal that the party starts. The giant gargoyles ‘come to life’ between movements, music and dancing. Sat. Feb. 9 1st MASKED PARADE at 4p.m. Sun. Feb. 17 2nd MASKED PARADE at 3p.m. Sat. Feb. 23 3rd MASKED PARADE at 5p.m. Sun. March 3 4th MASKED PARADE at 3p.m. Tue. March 5 5th MASKED PARADE at 2.30p.m. At the end of the parade winners will be announced Great Ending Fireworks
THOMAS RICCIOTTI
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ased on ancient ship-building techniques and constructed with the highest degree of craftsmanship, the floats of Viareggio’s Carnevale are a pride for builders whose passion is such that it can take them up to a year to prepare one single float. But time does not matter, as far as the goal of impressing people and winning the Carnevale is accomplished. The idea of creating an open-air parade at Viareggio dates back to 1873. Since then, the Carnevale of Viareggio has drawn hundreds of
thousands of visitors annually and has been televised to a national and international audience. At the Carnevale the atmosphere is magic, surreal. Patrons are clothed in fancy dress and armed with silly string and confetti, while vendors sell typical fried sweets called cenci and bombolone. Giants can weigh as much as 40 tonnes and carry moving papier-mâché figures, some up to 20 meters tall, along a two-kilometer circuit on Viareggio’s seafront while music, masked performers and dancers accompany the procession throwing confetti and sweets to the crowds. Cheeky satire is directly propor-
tional to floats’ sheer size designed upon themes ranging from mythology to international politics, current affairs and Italian or international celebrities. Behind the grinning caricatures competition is fierce as parade winners are announced at the end of the festivities. A tradition that is definitely worth exploring, the Carnevale festivities in Viareggio begin this year on Feb. 9 with an opening parade and take place every Sunday until Saturday March 5. The final day of festivities closes with the announcement of parade winners and a fireworks display.
At the end of the parade winners will be announced Great Ending Fireworks
BUY YOUR TICKET ONLINE ON VIVATICKET.IT
Payment Tickets can be bought the day of each parade at the ticket office or at the main ticket office of the Fondazione Carnevale at the Palazzo delle Muse in Viareggio’s Mazzini Square. Tribune seats must be booked in advance via fax (+39 0584 580771) or email (biglietteria@ilcarnevale.com) and must be paid by bank transfer 20 days before the masked parade that you wish to attend. For more precise information check the website viareggio.ilcarnevale.com/en/.
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Rex Hosts Martera’s House’n’Roll
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reaking barriers between different styles of music is DJ’s Leo Martera formula for his Saturday night at Rex bar. The idea came when Martera noticed that one-musical-theme nights were beginning to bore people after a while. Thus came the intuition to mix not just songs, but also styles of music. And it worked, making Saturday nights at Rex one of the most appreciated nights in Florence. With the advantage of dancing in a bar and not in a club, the atmosphere is far more easy-going and the night more dynamic. This formula proved successful also because on Saturdays Rex does not mix just different styles of music, but also different kinds of people. For more than ten years Martera has been djing and playing drums
in the most popular Italian and European clubs and parties, such as those organized by Luisa Via Roma with AZEALIA BANKS and CRIS CAB. His live dj-set is a mix between djing and drumming, which interact to create a show of great impact, with sonorities ranging from deep house to the more typical electronic grooves of clubbing. Martera is supported in his productions by some of the most acclaimed deejays in Europe. For more information on Leo Martera check the website leomartera.net.
House’n’Roll
Rex Firenze Saturday night Via Fiesolana 25/r www.rexfirenze.com
spring Breaks
Florence News 27
NEWS
A New Factory of Ideas: Fabbricato Viaggiatori
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new space called Fabbricato Viaggiatori recently opened inside the central railway station of Santa Maria Novella. The name of the place – located on the Palazzina Reale, a historical building created in 1935 and designed by the Gruppo Toscano of architects, among whom was the renowned Giovanni Michelucci who created the Florence train station – recalls the concept of
travelling. Fabbricato Viaggiatori is in fact a special space open to anyone that welcomes travellers to and from Florence while also helping introduce them to the city. It has a restaurant, open all day long from 7 a.m. to 11 p.m., for breakfast, lunch and dinner, that serves food made with traditional Italian products but also opened to an ‘international taste’. The food served is made with
seasonal, fresh, and organic and eco-sustainable ingredients. A wide selection of wines is also available as well as a cocktail bar and a coffee shop. The place is colorful and decorated with a variety of green plants, with a design enriched by a vintage feel, from furniture to lights. Fusing tradition and innovation, Fabbricato Viaggiatori also has a sort of American-style to the sophisticated waiting area for Florence’s main train station. It has free Wi-Fi connection, a selection of books, music, movies and documentaries, events and vernissages, tastings, master-classes and concerts. This new waiting area is awaiting your visit.
Fabbricato Viaggiatori Piazza della Stazione 50
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Florence News 29
CITY BEAT
An American Perspective on Italian Basketball JULIA DOWD
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an Marcellino Palace was bursting with energy Sunday night after a high scoring win from Florence’s home team, Fiorentina Basket of the Serie B Italian minor league. The gym occupied about 400 spectators who had more pride and spirit for their team than I’d ever seen before. Everyone in the crowd had their eyes on the court and very few were distracted from the action between Fiorentina, ranked fourth, and their opponent, Oleggio of Piemonte, ranked 12th. The average number of participants range from 750-800 people. Many of the fans were decorated in Fiorentina purple which is an iconic color for the city of Florence. There was even a special fan section called the “Poche Presenze” who helped keep the energy high all night long. This group of local Florentine’s represent the fan club of this team and their rhythmic chants and drums created an electric arena. This was unlike any other game I’d attended before. American basketball is not unfamiliar with high spirited and passionate crowds, but the Italians seem more engaged with the sport itself. Their gym was not flashy or exciting but the atmosphere made it feel like a playoff game. The
crowd was filled with people of all ages, but a majority were kids and middle aged people who waved purple and white Fiorentina flags to show their support. The Serie B league is very family friendly and that showed when Fiorentina interacted with the fans. At the end of the game, the players went down the line to high-five many fans in the stands, something you would never see at a NCAA or NBA game in America. The players were also signing autographs for the local kids in the gym. There was never a lull in excitement with this
crowd, even though the halftime show consisted of local kids playing together on the court with some American music playing in the background. Unlike in the U.S. where they have showy performances, interactive games or free giveaways. The age range between the Italian players is much more vast than that of American players. Fiorentina has players as old as their late 40’s to as young as 18. Gino Cuccarolo, a crowd favorite, also played a notable game with 16 points and 23 minutes played. The local kids call him “the giant” as he is the tallest Italian basketball player at a height of seven feet three inches. For Ollegio, Marusic Andrea was a former player for Fiorentina and played consistently throughout the game. He has a 60 percent free throw shooting average. His teammate Pilotti Andrea is another notable player and averages 83 percent on free throws.
Ring in the New Year, Florentine-Style I
t is a tradition somewhat odd that of the Florentine ringing of the new year, yet a quite interesting one. One of the many that the Florentine government has, in recent years, decided to revive. Maybe because Florentines have always remained so attached to their traditions, maybe because they have always felt to be so different from other Italians, maybe because of both these things at the same time. Regardless of the reason why this tradition has been revived, this year too Florence will ring the new year a second time, on March 25. In fact, it was until 1750 that Florentines marked the start of the new year not on Jan. 1 but on March 25, in coincidence with the Feast of the Annunciation. While the Gregorian calendar had been followed in other Italian states since 1582, it wasn’t until 1749, when Grand Duke Francesco II decreed a change to the modern temporal calculations, that Florence started marking the New Year on Jan. 1 as in the rest of the Italian peninsula. Celebrations on March 25 were linked to the worship of the Virgin Mary and included a pilgrimage to the Basilica of Santissima Annunziata to venerate a thirteenth-century fresco depicting the Annunciation. The work is said to have been completed by miraculous intervention: the commissioned
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artist, unable to complete the face of Mary despite several attempts, fell into a deep sleep and when he awoke he discovered the image of Mary’s face had been completed. From this a legend arose that the fresco had been finished by angels. Thus on March 25, devotees would make a pilgrimage to the basilica, and out of this a tradition arose, too, a yearly fair held in the piazza. Via dei Servi, the road that connects this church to the Duomo, is named for the religious order that founded Santissima Annunziata, the Servi di Maria. In recent years, the Florentine government has revived this traditional celebration, organizing free concerts at the basilica as well as historical re-enactments of the procession from Palazzo Vecchio to Santissima Annunziata. Be on the lookout that day for the procession and live concerts in piazzas throughout Florence.
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30 Florence News
FOOD&WINE
SPRING EDITION www.florencenews.it
IN HONOR OF VALENTINE’S DAY:
3 Recommended Seafood Dishes
Natural Aphrodisiacs to Improve Your Groove C. DE MELO
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t happens to almost every couple in a long-term relationship. In time, the sizzling passion cools. Should you break up? Have an affair? Get a divorce? Before doing anything drastic, take a deep breath and be assured that it’s perfectly normal to experience a lull once in awhile. Stress, work, kids- the daily grind- can dampen your sex life. How can you improve your libido the easy and natural way? By changing your mindset, adding a bit more spontaneity into your life, and eating foods that will naturally increase your desire and overall health. The following is a list of 8 foods that will help you get your groove back. 1. Seafood: You’ve heard about oysters being aphrodisiacs due to their high content of zinc, which is essential for sexual health and reproduction, but what about other forms of seafood? Oily fish like herring and salmon contain omega 3 fatty acids, which aid in maintaining a healthy heart and arteries. During intercourse, a strong heart and clean arteries keeps the blood pumping and flowing to where it’s needed. Other zinc-rich foods include almonds and asparagus.
2. Chocolate: Naturally boosts serotonin levels and gives you a burst of energy (like caffeine). Did you know that consuming large amounts of chocolate creates the same euphoric feeling as being in love? It’s true. Try it. 3. Wild Arugula: Foods packed with antioxidants help block free radicals and other negative chemical toxins that may cause damage to the libido. Remember, good health promotes desire. Other high antioxidant foods are kiwi and citrus fruits. 4. Figs: The “divas” of the fruit world. Figs are enticing to look at, sensual to eat, and contain loads of fiber. Consuming high-fiber foods causes you to feel full so you eat less, thus keeping you in shape. The old rule is true: if you LOOK good, you will FEEL good, which enables you to be more confident, happy, sexy. 5. Strawberries: Not only are these fruits red (the color of passion), they are also rich in Vitamin B, which helps produce high sperm counts in men. 6. Banana: This phallic fruit is a powerhouse of potassium, vitamins, and minerals. There is also a special enzyme, bromelain, that
specifically promotes the male libido. 7. Avocado: The ancient Aztecs believed the avocado to be a powerful aphrodisiac and named it ahuacate, which literally means “testicle.” This creamy, decadent fruit is especially beneficial for pregnant women since it is loaded with folic acid.
1) Flambè King Prawns with Grand Marnier and Curry sauce
8. Eggs: Balances hormones and stress via high quantities of Vitamins B5 and B6. Eating eggs shortly before sexual intercourse will enhance the experience. Think about that the next time you’re eating an omelette. After adding the above foods into your diet, go out and buy yourself a new outfit, get a babysitter for the kids (or better yet, go on weekend getaway or book a hotel room to break the monotony), buy a bottle of good wine, turn on some soft music…I’m sure you can figure out the rest.
2) Raw Fish and Oyster
C. De Melo 3) Crispy Octopus with a Topinambur Sauce
Author of SABINA and several other books www.cdemelo.com www.cealiberti.it
Ristorante Inferno Via Ghibellina 80/r
LUNCH&DINNER | BEER&BURGERS LIVE MUSIC&APERITIVO
Via Verdi 47R-49R 055 199 91 333 www.offthehook.it
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Florence News 31
FOOD&WINE
The Aperitivo Explained W
hat is the aperitivo in Italy? It is a way people stay connected, and can be a dinner option for those who just want a light evening meal or who are on a strict budget. This fun and tasty trend began in Milano in the 80’s when some bars had the idea to serve snacks with their drinks during Happy Hour. Naturally, people would opt to enjoy their cocktails at establishments that provided free nibbles. Other bars began to follow suit,
These iconic cocktails feature distinctive ingredients like Aperol, Campari and Vermouth which stimulate the appetite. some even offering dishes like hot pasta, thus giving people the opportunity to eat their primo and then go out for dinner afterward. The Milanese trend trickled south to many cities including Florence. Just about every lounge bar, coffee bar, and enoteca in the city serves some form of aperitivo buffet with their drinks. Good music is also crucial, since it sets the mood for relaxation and animated conversation.
Beyond the world of wine lies a wide assortment of cocktails to discover in Italy, including the Ne groni, the Spritz, and the Americano. Intended to whet the palate, these three cocktails usually contain Campari, but are also offered with some minor variations. These iconic Italian cocktails feature distinctive ingredients like Aperol, Campari and Vermouth and contain flavors that stimulate the appetite— thus, perfect for the Italian aperitivo. The social activity known as aperitivo takes place in a lively atmosphere, at a bar or party, accompanied by light-tasting cocktails and pre-dinner snacks. It happens almost every night of the week, and in some locales, the finger foods are enough for a full meal, at the price of an €9 or €12 cocktail, from 6pm to 10pm. The Americano is made with half Campari, half sweet Vermouth, and soda water, and is garnished with lemon. It was originally served in Gaspare Campari’s café in Milan and called the Milano-Torino cocktail in reference to the Campari from Milan and Vermouth from Turin. However, as the drink grew in popularity among American tourists, it became known as the Americano. In 1919, when Count Camillo Negroni was at Florence’s Caffè Casoni (now Caffè Giacosa), he ordered his Americano a little bit stronger. The bartender decided to add gin instead of soda water,
Credits: Flickr User Matteo Paciotti
and an orange instead of a lemon, to distinguish this new and different drink. The cocktail was so well received that the Negroni family founded a Negroni Distillery in Treviso, Italy. Currently there are three different variations of the Negroni cocktail. The first is called the Negroni sbagliato, the “wrong” Negroni, wherein Spumante Brut (dry spar-
kling white wine) is substituted for gin. The Negroski is a version made with vodka instead of gin. Lastly, the Sparkling Negroni contains the original gin, Campari and Vermouth, plus Champagne or Prosecco, sometimes garnished with an orange twist. Another typical choice for aperitivo is the Spritz cocktail, which is made with one ounce of Aperol,
two ounces Prosecco, and Seltzer. For those who prefer a more bitter flavor, Campari can be used instead of the sweeter, lighter Aperol. Venturing away from standard American cocktails makes for a delicious change of pace, while experiencing the Italian aperitivo tradition takes you a step closer to adopting the quintessential Italian lifestyle. Enjoy your aperitivo.
Il Supermercato... da Gustare e deGustare
Sapori & Dintorni is the new way to do the shopping: in the heart of Florence there is a place where Food, Culture and Territory meet. Get in and discover the Big Supermarket to test and taste! Inside you will find many typical products of the Italian food tradition. Buy your favorite product and taste it within the tasting area.
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THE BIG SUPERMARKETS ARE OPEN: • Monday - Saturday: from 08.30 am to 9.00 pm • Sunday: from 09.30 am to 9.00 pm
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SPRING EDITION www.florencenews.it
Asparagus and Truffle 1/2 kilo fresh asparagus, cut into 1 inch pieces 2 scallions, chopped 2 T olive oil 3 cups arborio rice 1/2 cup Vernaccia di San Gimignano 4 cups vegetable broth 3 T butter 1/2 cup grated cheese (Parmesan or Aged Pecorino) 1. Place olive oil in pan with scallions and asparagus. Sauté for 2 minutes. 2. Add rice, wine, and half of the water. Lower heat and let simmer. 3. As water evaporates, keep adding more, stirring frequently to achieve a creamy texture. 4. Rice should be cooked until tender yet al dente. Add butter and cheese, stirring to distribute evenly. 5. Sprinkle generously with grated truffle.
Ristorante Il Pino Via Cellolese 6 San Gimignano 057 79 40 415 www.ristoranteilpino.it
Gluten Free
ating out can become an unpleasant experience for those who suffer from food allergies. One of the most common food allergies in the world is celiac disease. Thanks to the commitment of its owners, who have attended the courses organized by the Associazione Italiana Celiachia (the Italian Association specialized in celiac diseases), alongside a traditional menu the restaurant Trattoria Da Garibardi offers a special gluten free menu with pasta, bread, pizza, as well as many other dishes. The restaurant has a very large kitchen and special tools that allow to prepare gluten free food without any danger of contamination. Thanks to this special background and commitment, the typical, tasty Tuscan cuisine is now accessible even to those who suffer from celiac disease.
Trattoria Da Garibardi Piazza del Mercato Centrale 38/r Tel.: + 39 055 212267 www.garibardi.it
Bring your bottles and fill them directly from the barrels of Il Santo Vino, starting at less than €1.50. Patrons can choose from a gamut of Italian wines alongside selected local specialty and organic products
Borgo Tegolaio, 46/r Tel. 055 53 87 122 , 345 90 93 425 www.ilsantovino.it Facebook: Il Santo Vino
FOOD&WINE
Gelateria della Passera and Dondoli Awarded
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WINE ON TAP IN SANTO SPIRITO
Opening hours: Tuesday to Sunday: 10 a.m.–2 p.m.; 5–9 p.m.
Florence News 33
Sergio Dondoli
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he Florentine Gelateria della Passera and the San Gimignano-based Gelateria di Piazza ran by Sergio Dondoli have been awarded again with the prestigious prize of the three cones, the highest attainable in the Gambero Rosso guide, for the year 2019. An Italian food and wine magazine and publishing group founded in 1986, Gambero Rosso has published Vini d’Italia since 1987 and has become one of the most renowned wine guides in Italy. A few years ago, Gambero Rosso began awarding gelaterias throughout the nation. Amongst the Tuscan gelaterias awarded is the Gelateria della Pas-
Cinzia Otri sera, located on Piazza della Passera in the Oltrarno area of Florence. The small artisanal Gelateria, one of the two Florentine awarded, offers less than 20 flavors among which the top rated were the ones made out of coffee, almond, cream, mojito, tea, and fruit tastes. Quite famous amongst tourists and located on San Gimignano’s main square, the Gelateria di Piazza is run by Sergio Dondoli, a former member of the Italian team that won the Gelato World Championship in 2006/2007 as well as 2008/2009. Here it is possible to find one of the most fresh and inviting flavors: the
Champelmo, a mix of Champagne and grapefruit. Dondoli also offers other ‘creations’ such as the Santa Fina cream, a flavor created in the honor of San Gimignano’s patron saint, the San Gimignano Zafferano, made out the local most typical products: saffron, eggnog and Tuscan Vin Santo. Flavors are divided between chocolate – there is even one made out the Amedei chocolate, a famous chocolate ‘artisan’ from the Tuscan city of Pontedera – creams and fruits. The Gambero Rosso guide also revers Dondoli’s blackberry and black blueberry as well as his salty flavors.
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SPRING EDITION www.florencenews.it
A Guide to Tuscan Cold Cuts and Cheeses cheeses or with crusty bread. Sbricciolona: artisan salami that crumbles (contains fennel seed). Delicious on crusty bread.
C.D. MELO
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ow that the autumn nip is in the air, people are exchanging summer salads for heartier fare. Tuscany is a mecca for excellent cold cuts and delicious cheeses. The variety offered is also just as impressive. A plate of freshly sliced meats and fine cheeses, along with some crusty bread and good wine, can easily be considered a meal in itself. The following is a list of meats and cheeses that I highly recommend you try when you are visiting Tuscany. MEATS: (keep in mind that they each have a distinct flavor due to unique spices) Prosciutto Crudo: cured / smoked ham that comes from the pig. Delicious with either figs, cheeses, or in a panino. Prosciutto Cotto: baked ham that comes from the pig. Delicious with mushrooms on pizza or in a panino with artichoke spread. Finocchiona: salami with fennel seed made from pig. Perfect with cheeses or crusty breads. I usually recommend a white wine with good acidity when eating finocchiona since the fat and fennel seeds will coat the taste buds. The
CHEESES: (the same cheese can taste very different depending on the age)
Sara of Il Girone De’ Ghiotti
acidity in the wine will “scrub” them clean and keep your palate fresh. Salami Tartufati: salami with black truffle made from pig. Delicious alone or with crusty bread. Salami di Cinghiale: salami made from Tuscan wild boar. Delicious alone or with crusty bread. Salami Toscano: salami with black pepper made from pig. Delicious with cheese, bread, or hard fruits (apple, pear). Soppressata: salami made from the snout, ears, and head of the pig. Delicious in a panino. Guancia: salami made from the cheeks of the pig. Perfect with
Pecorino Fresco: sheep’s milk cheese that is not very aged (4-6 months). Delicious with fresh fruits or fruit mostarda (fruit sauces infused with mustard, horseradish, or peperoncino). Pecorino Staggionato: sheep’s milk cheese that has been aged for 12 months or more). Delicious with grapes (red globe), mostarda, or drizzled with truffle honey.
Florence News 35
FOOD&WINE
Home of the Dragoon T
hroughout its 35 years of history, the Kikuya English Pub has been a meeting place for friends, students, and tourists of all nationalities. The current owner Annalisa, a native Brazilian, has kept a diverse atmosphere alive within this iconic pub. When Annalisa first started working at Kikuya with her sister, she could not imagine calling the pub her home away from home 24 years later. Her passion for English beers and customers who later became her friends has created a welcoming and memorable pub with a knack for English ales and good times. Located on Via De’ Benci, Kikuya is the only home to the Charles Wells Dragoon beer. A strong, yet sweet pale ale is the highlight of the pubs
draft beers. Annalisa has put her own fun twist on the beer by serving it with a sweet lollipop. The eclectic addition is indicative of Annalisa’s own vibrant personality and ability to keep Kikuya’s atmosphere young and fun. Everyday from 7 p.m. - 10p.m. the pub offers any burger or panini with fries and a drink for €10.
Stracchino: soft, mild, spreadable cheese. Delicious in a panino with prosciutto crudo or sun-dried tomatoes. Caprino: fresh goat cheese. Delicious with grilled chicken, in salads, or with roasted vegetables (like sweet bell peppers and zucchini). Why not fill a basket with these Tuscan treats and watch the breathtaking sunset from Piazzale Michelangelo while having an evening picnic? Do not forget to wash it down with some good wine!
I’ GIRONE DE’ GHIOTTI THE VINAIO NEAR PIAZZA SIGNORIA
Tuscan Panini, Artisanal Beers And Wine Tasting NEW SANDWICH FOR LEONARDO’S
NEW SANDWICH LEONARDO 500TH DEATH ANNIVERSARY! Via dei cimatori 23/r (near Piazza Signoria)
DRINKS & COCKTAILS
Via dei Pepi, 14 www.chupalachupiteria.com
chupalachupiteria.firenze
chupalachupiteriafi
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SPRING EDITION www.florencenews.it
Sun, Limoncello, and... a Paradise on Earth Visiting the Amalfi Coast with Bus2alps
K
nown for its picturesque sights and a laid-back beach vibe that has attracted celebrities, weekend jetsetters and college students from all around the world, the Amalfi Coast is one of Italy’s true paradises. It is also the site of a variety of unmissable destinations, including Naples, Pompeii and the Isle of Capri. Spring is the best time to visit this region because the crowds and heat have not yet swarmed the beaches, making the trip with Bus2alps to the Isle of Capri and the seaside towns of Positano and Sorrento ideal.
When first visiting this region, visitors are greeted with the sight of Mount Vesuvius looming over the countryside and dramatic views of traditional cities built into sloping cliffs. As the tour journeys to the Isle of Capri, visitors experience a mystical place that is home to many ancient myths, including the sirens from Homer’s Odyssey. On the private boat tour around the island provided by Bus2alps, you too will be captivated, not by mythical creatures, but by the natural beauty of the area. Visitors
Via dei Pandolfini, 26r • 347 381 8294
also journey to the world-famous Blue Grotto and the peak of Mount Solaro. The grotto is not only exceptional because it is an accessible sea cave, but the sunlight that travels through the entrance illuminates the clear water and creates brilliant blue and green hues. Mount Solaro is the tallest point on Capri, reaching 589 meters and providing unparalleled views of the landscape. After sunbathing and exploring the island, visit the seaside town of Positano, a short ride from Sant’Agnello and Sorrento. Positano is made up of multicolored buildings that cling to the cliff above the hot black sand and pebble beaches. Visitors can enjoy people-watching in the glorious surrounds and a variety of water sports. Bus2alps journey to Positano is done by private mini cruise, which includes lunch, a swim stop in a secluded beach, three sundecks and full working bar. Only the Bus2alps tour includes a ferry to Capri with a private boat tour of the island, as well as transportation to Positano and Pompeii. The last day of the trip includes a tour of the ruins of Pompeii accompanied by an optional private guide, who recounts fascinating tales of the ancient city’s history.
Florence News 37
TRAVEL Included: • Round-trip luxury coach transport (with A/C, DVD & bathroom) • Accommodation with your friends at top-rated hostels • Breakfast • Private ferry to the Isle of Capri with a private guided boat tour of the island (with a stop at the Blue Grotto) • Private transfer to Positano • Private transport to Pompeii • Exclusive Bus2alps discounts everywhere • A Bus2alps trip leader • The Amalfi Coast Bus2alps destination guide
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38 Florence News
CITY GUIDE
SPRING EDITION www.florencenews.it
MUSEUMS & MONUMENTS Cappelle Medicee The Old Sacristy, the New Sacristy, with architecture and sculpture by Michelangelo, and the Chapel of the Princes, decorated with inlaid marble and hard stones. P.zza Madonna degli Aldobrandini, 6 Tel: +39.055.294883 Hours: 8.15-17.00 Closed: 2nd, 4th Sunday; 1st, 2nd, 5th Monday of month
Galleria degli Uffizi Open since 1591, the Uffizi hosts one of the most important collections of art of all time, classical sculpture and 13th to 18th century paintings Loggiato degli Uffizi Tel: +39.005.294883 Hours: 8.15-18.50 Closed: Mondays
Palazzo Vecchio Quartieri Monumentali Residence of the Priors, the Signoria and the Medici. Paintings, sculpture, furniture and hangings. Piazza della Signoria Tel: +39.005.2768224 Hours: Sept: 9-24 - Thursdays 9-14 Oct: 9-19 - Thursdays 9-14.
Galleria dell’Accademia Michelangelo’s masterpieces: the David and the Slaves. Sculpture, paintings and casts by various artists. Via Ricasoli, 60 Tel: +39.005.294883 Hours: 8.15-18.50 Closed: Mondays
Museo del Bargello Residence of the Captain of the People, of Justice and ancient prison. Masterpieces of painting and sculpture, plus minor arts. Frescoes by the school of Giotto in the Chapel. Via del Proconsolo, 4 Tel: +39.005.294883 Hours: 8.15-17.00. Closed: 2nd, 4th Sunday; 1st, 3rd, 5th Monday of month.
Battistero di San Giovanni Romanesque temple dedicated to St. John the Baptist, patron saint of the city. Outside, the doors by Ghiberti. Piazza San Giovanni Tel: +39.055.2302885 Hours: 11.15-18.30 - Sundays, 1st Saturday of month 8.30-13.30.
Campanile di Giotto Famous bell tower, a masterpiece of Gothic architecture by Giotto, built between 1334 and 1359. Piazza del Duomo Tel: +39.055.2302885 Hours: 8.30-18.50. Closed: Easter.
Galleria d’Arte Moderna Paintings and sculptures related to the art in Tuscany from the late 18th century to the period between the two world wars. Temporary shows of contemporary art. Piazza Pitti Tel: +39.055 294883 Hours: 8.15-18.50. Closed: Mondays.Fri, Sat, Sun 9.00 18.00. Thur 9.00 - 14.00.
Cupola di Brunelleschi The masterpiece of Brunelleschi. Frescoes of the Last Judgement by Federico Zuccari. Suggestive itinerary to the top of the dome with breathtaking views over the city. Piazza del Duomo Tel: +39.005.2302885 Hours: 8.30-18.20 - Saturdays 8.3017.00pm. Closed: Sundays and Easter day.
EVERY MONDAY
Via dei Pandolfini, 26 r
Cartoleria Lory Srl P.za Frescobaldi 8r 50125 055-213246 Shop.lory.net www.digital-fineart.it www.lorycad.net
EVERY TUESDAY
Galleria Palatina e Appartamenti Reali The Palatine Gallery occupies the whole left wing of the first floor of the Pitti Palace, which was the residence of the Medici grand-dukes. In 1828, when Tuscany came under the rule of the Lorraine, the most important paintings in the Palace, most of which had been collected by the Medici. Piazza Pitti Tel: +39.055.294883 Hours: 8.15-18.50 Closed: Mondays
Giardino Bardini These beautiful gardens, recently restored, contain many rare plants and specialised areas, such as Italian and English gardens, as well as a fine Baroque staircase, statues, fountains, a small amphitheater and panoramic views. Entrances: Via dei Bardi, 1 r and Boboli Gardens. Info and reservations: Tel: +39.055.294883 Hours: 8.15-18.30 Closed: 1st and last Monday of month.
Museo delle Porcellane Collections of porcelain from reigning royal families. Palazziana del Cavaliere, Boboli Gardens, Piazza Pitti, 1 Tel: +39.055.294883 Hours:8.15-18.30 Closed: 1st and last Monday of month
Museo degli Argenti Summer apartments of the Grand Dukes. It contains vases in hard stone that belonged to Lorenzo the Magnificent, and the jewellery that belonged to the Electress Palatine. Piazza Pitti Tel: +39.055.294883 Hours: 8.15-18.30 Closed: 1st and last Monday of month.
Museo Novecento Italian art of the 20th century, in a journey backwards from the Nineties to the first decades of the century. Piazza Santa Maria Novella Tel: +39.055 286132 Hours: Oct to March- Mon, Tue, Wed, Fri, Sat, Sun 9.00 - 18.00. Thur 9.00 14.00.
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SPRING EDITION www.florencenews.it
Learning Self-Defense A
course aimed at informing, educating and spreading awareness on self-defense is being held on Tuesdays and Thursdays from 3 to 4 p.m. at the Centro Studi Danza e Movimento, Borgo degli Albizi. It is based on both group and one-toone lessons. The course provides all the necessary tools to minimize risks and limit the damage in a potential dangerous situation. It is based on a simple and effective way and techniques inspired of different Martial Arts (Chinese, Japanese, Thay), which allow the trainees to work on their fears and insecurities, as well as assess and handle the various aspects, physical and mental, involved in a high risk situation for both themselves and others. The training system includes physical training, bare-hand and armed defense, studying of the vulnerable parts of the body, emotional control, and psychological and environmental analysis.
Florence News 39
CITY GUIDE
Benheart Launches New Boutique
A Florentine Gift V
isconti is an authentic Florentine company which manufactures pens, watches, and other accessories. The company was founded October 20, 1988 by Luigi Poli and Dante Del Vecchio, who shared a passion for high quality pens. The luxury of the work shows in the uniqueness of each piece and the special manufacturing process. If you are looking for a memorable souvenir stop by Pinart, located at Via de’ Guicciardini, 2r, 50125 Firenze, located near Ponte Vecchio.
C/o Centro Danza e Movimento Borgo degli Albizi 16 Kungfu-firenze.com
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PINART
Bring Home Organic Wool Y
ou can get clothing made from organic wool at the MP shop located on via dei Pilastri 22r. Organic wool is not genetically modified, so it is more environmentally friendly. The growing process allows the soil to remain fertile, and it reduces the need for toxic fertilizers, making organic wool a good choice for the eco-conscious consumer.
enheart is opening a new shop on Florence’s most central street, Via Calzaiuoli. The new shop is part of an expansion that encompasses some of the most important cities in Italy (Florence, Rome, Milan, Verona and Lucca), as well as other around the world (Strasbourg, Kuwait City, and Riyad). The story of this young stylist by the name of Ishan is quite literally derived from his heart. It was after a heart transplant, in fact, that Ishan woke up with a new perspective on life, realizing that he now had the best chance to express his emotions through his hands. That’s why Benheart is synonymous to ‘son of the heart’ - the distinctive logo imprinted on all his leather goods: shoes, bags, jackets and belts. Along with his heart, Ishan takes inspiration from the American way of living, which he describes as vivacious, happy, full of hopes and fueled by dreams. “We look at quality first: quality is our brand’s identity. Then, of course, all our products have to fit and look beautiful when you wear them,” he told us. The first Benheart store opened Florence six years ago. Since then, he has expanded to six stores: five of which are in Italy, and one of which is in Tokyo. Soon there will be seven boutiques, as a new one is
about to open in San Francisco at the beginning of the next year. The clothing and accessories are crafted entirely by hand, the treatment of which is taken from the traditions of Ben’s native town. Customized pieces are also available if you visit one of their locations in Florence.
Benheart Via della Vigna Nuova, 97/r Via Cimatori, 25/r Via Calzaiuoli, 78/r www.benheart.it
Tattoo Piercing Via degli alfani 32/r Firenze
LIVE MUSIC AND SPORTS Via dei Boni 5r Via dei Boni 5r Borgo Croce 2r 334 la 7007714 www.leftluggageflorence.com leftluggageflorence.com
Via Faenza 27/r • 055 274 1571
+39 344 20 48 393 +39 342 75 47 804 Fb: Blood Brotherhood
#bloodbhtattoo