Florence News OCTOBER 2016, N 0 8 www.florencenews.it
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Current Exhibits
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF: Lorenzo Picchi GR APHIC & L AYOUT DESIGN: Narine Nalbandyan Ekaterina Chebotareva CONTRIBUTORS: Thomas Ricciotti, Avani Kapur, Christine De Melo, Lee Foust, Federico Curcio, Cydney Ee, Heather Donner, Hannah Nagle, Samina Abedini. REGISTERED AT THE TRIBUNAL OF FLORENCE N. 6008, ON 9/12/2015. PUBLISHER: IAF PRINT: Rotostampa SRL, Florence
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♦ Minimum Splendid. Small, Precious Sculptures in the Medici Collections: From Francesco I de' Medici's Tribune to the Grand Ducal Treasure Curated by Valentina Conticelli, Riccardo Gennaioli and Fabrizio Paolucci Palazzo Pitti, Museo degli Argenti, Until Nov. 2 At the Uffizi Galleries is stored up one of the most important existing collection of an extremely rare sector of glyptic art: the small sculptures made of hard stone that were produced for the most part in the Hellenistic and Roman periods, whose technique went lost in the Middle-Ages to be rediscovered in the Renaissance period.
The first monographic exhibit ever dedicated to painter and art critic Ardengo Soffici (1879-1964) showcases, alongside those of Soffici, works by Segantini, Cezanne, Renoir, Picasso, Degas, Medardo Rosso, De Chirico, Carrà, with the aim to explore one the most prolific interpretations of the origins of a kind of art, the contemporary one, characterized by revolutionizing “discoveries” and dramatic “Massacres.”
♦ The Revenge of Color Against Line. Venetian Drawings from the Ashmolean Museum and the Uffizi Gallery Curated by Marzia Faietti, Giorgio Marini and Catherine Whistler Uffizi, Department of Print and Drawings, Oct. 18 - Jan. 8 (2017)
♦ Discoveries and Massacres. Ardengo Soffici and Impressionism in Florence Curated by Vincenzo Farinella and Nadia Marchioni Uffizi, Sept. 26 - Jan. 8 (2017)
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OCTOBER www.florencenews.it The exhibit highlights the developments in the practice of drawing in Venice and in the Veneto region that occurred from the period of artists such as Tiziano, Veronese and Tintoretto to that of Canaletto when the figurative production became particularly influenced by the artistic workshops of Venice and other cities. The aim is to understand the ways of expression of Venetian drawing by confronting works from the Department of Print and Drawing of the Uffizi Gallery and the Ashmolean Museum of the Oxoford University.
The exhibit presents 80 of the over 200 clocks stored at Palazzo Pitti made in the period from the 18th to the 19th century, chosen for their artistic and scientific value.
♦ The Four Continents. Florentine Tapestry Cartoons by Giovanni Camillo Sagrestani Curated by Caterina Chiarelli and Daniele Rapino Palazzo Pitti, Galleria Palatina, Sept. 27 - Jan. 8 (2017)
♦ Real Time and Time of Reality. The Clocks at Palazzo Pitti from the XVIII to the XX Century Curated by Simonella Condemi and Enrico Colle Palazzo Pitti, Gallery of Modern Art, Sept. 13 - Jan. 8 (2017)
The exhibit showcases four magnificent tapestry cartoons from the third decade of the 18th century made by painter Giovanni Camillo Sagrestani. The cartoons represent the four continents on the base of the interpretation, often characterized by fantasy, of the cultural and historical identities of the world that was prevalent in the beginning of the 18th century.
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OCTOBER www.florencenews.it
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Uffizi Reopens Historic Renaissance Painting Hall HEATHER DONNER
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he Uffizi Gallery has reopened Hall n. 8, dedicated to Renaissance painting. Some of the most important paintings of the gallery – such as Paolo Uccello’s San Romano’s battle, Masaccio’s Sant’Anna Metterza, Filippo Lippi’s Madonna and Child, and Domenico Veneziano’s Sacred Conversation – are again on display in their original setting. The hall was closed exactly one year ago to implement the security, air-conditioning, and lighting systems. To not prevent visitors from seeing the works of the hall, the paintings had been temporarily placed in other halls. “I’d like to thank all those who made it possible to have the paintings returned in their original place” said in a press conference Eike Schmidt, director of the Uffizi Museum. Hall n. 8 is not the only hall to reopen, as the Botticelli hall, in the first corridor of the gallery, is scheduled to reopen on Oct. 18. Halls 9 through 14 will also reopen featuring works by Sandro Botticelli and the monumental Portinari Triptych by Hugo van der Goes.
The Botticelli hall now has an upgraded architectural system that emphasizes the pieces displayed. Visitors will now have the opportunity to view Botticelli’s Annunciation,which was previously preserved in the church of San Pier Scheraggio and now moved to the Uffizi. The Uffizi Galleries recently launched official @uffizigalleries Instagram and Twitter accounts
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The Artworks on Display in Hall n. 8 Masolino and Masaccio, Sant’Anna Metterza, table, 176.5 x 104 (inv.1890, n.8386)
for visitors to follow for news and updates. The Uffizi is open Tuesday through Sunday, 8:15 a.m. – 6:50 p.m. Entrance can be booked through the website www.uffizi.it. The Vasarian Corridor, linking the Uffizi to the Pitti Palace, has partially reopened after being shut down this summer following a fire department inspection which revealed it was not up to code.
Masaccio, Virgin of Cardinal Casini, table, 24,5 x 18,2 (inv.1890,n.9929) Beato Angelico, Coronation of the Virgin, table, 138 x 137 (inv.1890,n.1612) Beato Angelico, Madonna and Child Enthroned, table, 143 x 67 (inv. Deposits 143) Paolo Uccello, Saint Monica and Two Children, table, 79 x 35 cm (inv.1890, n.10096) Paolo Uccello, Battle of San Romano, table, 188 x 327 (inv.1890, 479) Domenico Veneziano, Sacred Conversation, table, 210 x 215 (inv.1890, 884) Filippo Lippi, Coronation of the Virgin, table, 204 x 291.5 (inv.1890, n.8352) Filippo Lippi, Barbadori Altarpiece, table, 40 x 235.5 (inv.1890, n.8351) Filippo Lippi and Francesco Pesellino, Madonna and Child with Four Saints, table, 202x 202 (inv.1890, n.8354, inv.1890, n.8355) Filippo Lippi, Adoration of the Child with Saints Hilary, Jerome and Angels, table, 147 x 147 (inv.1890, n.8350) Filippo Lippi, Adoration of the Child and the Saints John and Romualdo, table, 143 x133 (inv.1890, n.8353) Filippo Lippi, Madonna and Child with Two Angels, table, 112 x 84 (inv.1890, n.1598)
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Hollywood Coming to Florence for Inferno World Premiere
OCTOBER www.florencenews.it
Ponte Vecchio Limited Access Proposal Causes Controversy
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he world premiere of the movie Inferno directed by Ron Howard and starring Tom Hanks will be held next month in Florence where most of the movie was filmed last year in May. The Salone de’ 500 at Palazzo Vecchio will host a first presentation of the movie on Oct. 6 which will be attended by journalists from all over the world. The day after a party is scheduled at the Forte Belvedere during which the protagonists of the movie will be photographed with Florence on the their background. The world premiere of Inferno will be on Oct. 8 at the Opera Theatre. More than 2000 people
will attend it. “I’m happy to say it is in beautiful Florence in Italy,” Ron Howard, director of all the three previous films, told Reuters in Singapore on Tuesday, adding that the location was appropriate given that the city was the “centerpiece of the movie.” Inferno sets Harvard symbologist Langdon, played by Tom Hanks, on a manhunt as he races to stop a plot to control the world’s population by the unleashing of a deadly artificial plague. The film is the latest in line from the blockbuster book and film franchise that began with Brown’s 2003 religious-themed mystery
novel “The Da Vinci Code”, and sees Hanks reprising the role of the character he once described as “the smartest guy in the room.” The movie’s name and many of the symbols examined by Langdon draw largely from the life and works of Alighieri, whose greatest literary achievement was the 14th-century “Divine Comedy” trilogy, the first of which is entitled “Inferno,” and describes nine circles of suffering in hell. The film also stars British actress Felicity Jones and Indian actor Irrfan Khan, while Ben Foster plays the scientist who intends on releasing the virus to solve the world’s population increase.
he proposal to limit the access to the Ponte Vecchio due to a flux of tourists comparable to that of transatlantic ferries is creating controversy as the debate on this possibility continued last month. The proposal was put forward by Dario Franceschini, Italian Minister of the Cultural Heritage and Tourism, who suggested to better regulate the tourist flux by introducing a fix number of daily transit to the bridge. Supporting Franceschini was Mariarita Signorini, the president of Italia Nostra Toscana, an association for the safeguard and the maintenance of Italian cultural heritage, who agreed with limiting the number of tourists crossing the Ponte Vecchio to preserve the bridge stability. “It is not just a problem of the Ponte Vecchio – said Signorini – but also of other important Italian monuments such as the Ponte di Rialto in Venice and the Trevi Fountain in Rome, that have become iconic spots and are thus rushed by a ‘hit, run and consume’ type of tourism.”Signorini added that Florence and Rome offer more spots to see and discover, while in Venice, her association has been fighting for years against the cruises entering the laguna. “In Florence, we
have always opposed the use of the Vasarian Corridor as a transit to the Pitti Palace,” said Signorini. Different opinions from those of Franceschini and Signorini have the goldsmiths of the Ponte Vecchio and the tourist operators in Florence, the latter skeptical about limiting the access to the historic bridge but also aware of the necessity to direct elsewhere too the tourist flux. “Closed number tourism does not work, we should encourage tourists to expand their interest to the whole city rather than just on a few streets” said Nico Gronchi, president of Confersercenti Toscana, the association of Tuscan commerce and tourist operators. The debate is destined to continue, but it will not be easy to limit tourist access to the Ponte Vecchio, as it is a very popular spot of tourism. Last May, a 200-metre-long hole opened by the Lungarno near the Ponte Vecchio spurring tourists to flock to the street bordering the Arno, snapping selfies. The sinkhole, which was blamed on a burst water pipe, caused huge damage but no one was hurt. The huge sinkhole should be repaired by Nov. 4, on occasion of the 50th anniversary of Florence catastrophic flood of 1966.
Oct. 13 —Nov. 6
THE TOWER OF BABEL The contemporary art exhibit to celebrate the reopening of the Pecci museum in Prato
curated by PIETRO GAGLIANÒ
MATTEO BASILÉ ZetaEffe Galleria www.galleriazetaeffe.com
CARLO COLLI Die Mauer www.diemauer.it
PAOLO ICARO Marcorossi artecontemporanea www.marcorossiartecontemporanea.com
MANFREDI BENINATI Galleria Poggiali e Forconi www.poggialieforconi.it
FABRIZIO CORNELI Galleria Susanna Orlando www.galleriasusannaorlando.it
PAOLO LEONARDO Galleria Alessandro Bagnai www.galleriabagnai.it
RENATA BOERO Galleria Open Art www.openart.it
VITTORIO CORSINI Claudio Poleschi Arte Contemporanea www.claudiopoleschi.com
GIUSEPPE MARANIELLO Flora Bigai Arte Contemporanea www.florabigai.it
LUIGI CARBONI Tornabuoni Arte www.tornabuoniarte.it
MARTA DELL’ANGELO Passaggi Arte Contemporanea www.passaggiartecontemporanea.it
PAOLO MASI Frittelli Arte Contemporanea www.frittelliarte.it
FRANCESCO CARONE SpazioA www.spazioa.it
ARON DEMETZ Galleria d’Arte Barbara Paci www.barbarapaciartgallery.com
HERMANN NITSCH Galleria d’Arte Frediano Farsetti www.galleriafredianofarsetti.it
BRUNO CECCOBELLI Guastalla Centro Arte www.guastallacentroarte.com
PIERO GILARDI Galleria Giraldi www.galleriagiraldi.it
LUIGI ONTANI Santo Ficara Arte Moderna e contemporanea www.santoficara.it
GIUSEPPE CHIARI Armanda Gori Arte www.armandagoriarte.com
ZOÈ GRUNI Galleria Il Ponte www.galleriailponte.com
ARCANGELO SASSOLINO Galleria Continua www.galleriacontinua.com
MATTEO CIARDINI Paola Raffo Arte rte Contemporanea www.paolaraffo.it
MICHELE GUIDO Eduardo Secci Contemporary www.eduardosecci.com
Ex-officine Lucchesi Piazza Macelli, 10 — Prato
Open every day 11 a.m. — 7 p.m. Closed on monday
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San Gimignano Hosts Benozzo Gozzoli
he Pinacoteca of San Gimignano is hosting an exhibition on Benozzo Gozzoli, one of the most important and prolific painters of the Renaissance, until Nov. 1. The exhibition explores Benozzo’s four years in San Gimignano, one of the most intense and productive periods in his career, focusing on the panel depicting the Madonna and Child with Angels, St. John the Baptist, St. Mary Magdalen, St. Augustine and St Martha which will be brought together in its entirety for the very first time thanks to the loan of the fragments from the original predella held by the Brera in Milan, the Musée du Petit Palais in Avignon, and the Thyssen-Bornemisza Collection in Madrid. Benozzo’s San Gimignano frescoes include a cycle for the choir of the church of Sant’Agostino, the most important ever dedicated to that church father, and an outstanding depiction of St. Sebastian, the saint whose aid was invoked against epidemics, wearing a long blue tunic and with his cloak held open by angels to protect the people from the soldiers’ arrows, as an ex voto for the end of the plague in 1464. As American art history professor and art critic Cole Ahl points out, the cycle allowed Benozzo “to raise the quality of his work and to receive numerous commissions in an area which, while open to innovation, was devoid of the merciless
competition typical of larger cities; for San Gimignano, Gozzoli’s presence meant opening up to the major artistic and architectural transformation under way in Florence, which was to be such a major feature of art patronage for the rest of the century.” In San Gimignano Benozzo also painted two Crucifixions, one for the Olivetans (which is still in situ),
and the other (now in the Museo di Arte Sacra) for the Palazzo Comunale where he also restored the civic community’s most emblematic image, Lippo Memmi’s Maestà, and painted two altarpieces, one for the church of Sant’Andrea and the other for Santa Maria Maddale-
na, both of which are now on display in the Museo Civico and both of which partake of the “square” format in the modern Renaissance style inaugurated by Fra Angelico. According to art historian and critic Gerardo De Simone, the altarpiece “encapsulates the successful combination – characteristic of Benozzo’s work – of the modern Renaissance sense of measure learnt at Fra Angelico’s knee and the profusion of decoration, showing his rich and precious materials to advantage, that harks back to the late Gothic style of Gentile da Fabriano.” Born in Florence either in 1420 or in 1421, Benozzo di Lese – to whom Vasari attributes the family name of Gozzoli – was a flawless exponent of the perspective theorised by Leon Battista Alberti, which he conjugated with skilfully depicted realism and a sharp interest in both nature and the Classical world. A pupil of two of the century’s greatest artists, Lorenzo Ghiberti and Fra Angelico, with whom he cooperated on the ‘Doors of Paradise’ for the Baptistry in Florence and in the Niccoline Chapel in the Vatican respectively, Benozzo went on to work as a master in his own right in Montefalco in Umbria (1450–2), in Viterbo (1453), in Perugia (1456) and in Rome where he designed and built the apparatus for Pope Pius II’s coronation in 1458.
The english TheaTre show in florence
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Box office Piazza di San Lorenzo 6 Show days from 10am to 6pm Via Faenza 48 from 6.30pm online Booking
reservations@medicidynasty.com Advance purchase: 26€ only at the ticket office
Student & Family discount
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OCTOBER www.florencenews.it
Il Ponte Presents Marco Gastini
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he contemporary art gallery Il Ponte is presenting an exhibit on Marco Gastini from Sept. 16 to Nov. 4. The showcase includes paintings made from 1969 to 1978, a decisive decade for the career of this artist, influenced by the socalled ‘analytic painting’ movement of those years of which is one of the most important representatives. Among the pieces exposed are a few plexiglas, a big white canvas of 1973, a few big ‘japan papers’ of 1974, and some works on paper of the biennium 1977/78. Born in 1938 in Turin, Gastini’s training began at the laboratory of his father, a marble cutter. At the end of the 1960s, Gastini developed an original research on painting, investigating those elements that determine its essential expressive
degree: trace, spatial presence, and chromatic annihilation. Exhibiting in New York at the John Weber Gallery in the 70’s led him to display at other important international galleries. In the 80’s, the fame of Gastini consolidated. In 1982, he participated for the second time at the Venice Biennale; in 1983 the Städtische Galerie im Lenbachhaus of Munich hosted his first great retrospective, with Helmet Friedel as a curator; in 1983 he showcased at the Galleria Civica of Modena — accompanied by a catalogue containing a critical text by Flaminio Gualdoni — and at the PAC of Milan. Since 2005, Gastini has returned to reflect on the space of single, large canvases. The Galleria Il Ponte is locanted on Via di Mezzo 42/b.
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OCTOBER www.florencenews.it
Palazzo Strozzi Presents Ai Weiwei Exhibit on display from Sept. 23
Florence News
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NEWS
Tuscan Contemporary Art Galleries Present ‘La Torre di Babele’ Exhibit celebrates reopening of Pecci Museum
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alazzo Strozzi is presenting the exhibition Ai Weiwei. Libero from Sept. 23 to Jan. 22, 2017. A dissident artist with a leading voice, Ai Weiwei is known worldwide as much for his challenging contemporary art practice as for his political activism. Over the past twenty years, he has become a leading voice on the international art scene and China’s most famous living artist. Ai Weiwei will be the first to exhibit in all the spaces of the Palazzo Strozzi, as he will showcase works from the façade of the palace and the courtyard to the piano nobile and the Strozzina gallery, enriching the architecture of the Palazzo Strozzi, a 15th century palace built
as a political statement. The exhibition includes monumental installations, sculptures, objects, videos and photographies ranging from his years living in New York – the 1980s and ’90s, when he discovered his ‘masters’ Andy Warhol and Marcel Duchamp – to the large iconic works from the early 2000s consisting of objects such as bicycles and stools, to his recent, controversial and engaged works such as the portraits of political dissidents built with Lego bricks and his projects on migration in the Mediterranean. Known for his political activism and meticulous artistic research, Ai Weiwei has become a symbol of resistance against censorship.
The showcase at Palazzo Strozzi will offer the opportunity to explore his creative genius and narrative, offering a critical insight to his ambiguous relations with China. The most important characteristcs of his art are the denounciation of the inconsistencies and gaps between the individual, and the community and a strong sense of rebellion against any form of authority.
Ai Weiwei. Libero Sept. 23- Jan. 22 Open every day 10 a.m. - 8 p.m Thursdays: 10 a.m. - 11 p.m. www.palazzostrozzi.org
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he 23 Tuscan contemporary art galleries enrolled in the Italian Contemporary Art Galleries Association, ANGAMC, are presenting the exhibit La Torre di Babele (the Tower of Babel) to celebrate the re-opening of the Pecci Meseum in Prato. The exhibit runs from Oct. 13 to Nov. 6 at the Ex Fabrica Lucchesi in the Piazza Macelli, Prato. The inauguration is on Oct. 12 at 6. p.m.. Curated by Pietro Gaglianò, La Torre di Babele presents 23 artists each emblematic of a gallery. The Babel’s tower is a symbol of
the continuous challenge that every artist goes through: that excess of limits which, since the biblical event, guides the human need to go out of bounds. Coming from different generations and backgrounds, the artists showcase various languages and aesthetics such as painting, sculpture, and complex installations. Galleries of modern and contemporary art in Tuscany form – each with its identity, projects, and perspectives – a wide and heterogeneous landscape.
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Alessandro Dari: A True Renaissance Man
A Museum for Leonardo Exhibit showcases working models of da Vinci’s designs
OCTOBER
ences. He works under a crystal ball that hangs above his head. The artist created this lamp himself in order to bring the sun indoors. He
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he exhibit presents working models of Leonardo’s designs that the Niccolai family has been reconstructing since 1995, when Carlo Niccolai dedicated himself to the work full-time in a desire to realise Leonardo’s legacy. His passion founded the Niccolai Collection, the largest private collection of Leonardo models in the world, comprising more than 300 working models created by himself and his sons, together with a team of artisans, engineers, historians and architects. The models have been displayed at more than 100 international exhibitions throughout Europe and as far afield as Australia, New Zea-
land, China, the US, Brazil, Saudi Arabia and Finland. The exhibit also displays copies of six codices, in which the visitor can view the sketches that reveal the workings of the great man’s mind. The Niccolai family has been widely praised for its ongoing devotion to realising the vast inheritance that Leonardo left to science.
Le Macchine di Leonardo da Vinci Via Cavour 21 www.macchinedileonardo.com
he first time people enter Alessandro’s bottega on Via dei Bardi, they are usually awestruck. The place is more like an art gallery / museum full of the most incredible and unusual jewelry pieces. While being serenaded by hypnotic music, one marvels at pendants fashioned into lush pommegranites, Medieval Crown rings, castles, and and necklaces wound into fantastic biomorphic shapes- it is a multi-sensory experience. Alessandro was born and raised in Siena. In addition to being a creative jewelry designer, he is also an accomplished musician (classical guitar), a licensed pharmacist, a trained artist, and he can even cook! When he was twelve years old, he found a ring on the Fontana di Gaia in Siena’s Piazza del Campo and put it on his finger. He knew in that moment he was destined to design jewelry. Interestingly, the ring was of a twisted snake swallowing its own tail, which signifies a cyclical rebirth. His first jewelry designs were serpent themed, thanks to the inspiration derived from that special ring. By the age of sixteen he was playing guitar and making jewelry. His formal degree is in pharmaceuticals and to this day he works as
Medieval Crown rings, castles, and and necklaces wound into fantastic biomorphic shapes- it is a multisensory experience. La Città Ideale a pharmacist at night five days a week. He also studied fine arts and drawing from the Etruscan period to the Liberty style. His pieces have been exhibited in prestigious venues such as the Museo degli Argenti in the Palazzo Pitti and the Museo di Fiesole, and he offers jewelry making classes in his studio, so if you would like to learn from a master this is your chance! All of his designs are unique and many pieces are inspired from nature. According to Alessandro, dinspiration sometimes comes from heaven, like a lightning boltsudden and unexpected. Some, however, come from life’s experi-
then proceeded to show me the difference between the commercial lamp beside him, and the one he made, which gives off the same natural light as the real sun.If you come to Florence and happen to be wandering in the Oltrarno, take the time to visit this special place. Alessandro’s bottega is located on Via San Niccolò 115, the website is www.alessandrodari.com.
C. De Melo Author of SABINA and other unique fiction novels www.cdemelo.com
Ristorante Natalino since 1880
Borgo degli Albizi 17/r 055 289404 ristnatalino@hotmail.it
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New & Improved Medici Dynasty Show 2016 C. DE MELO
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lorence would never have flourished without the Medici. True, other noble families contributed to the Florentine humanistic movement, but none as much as the city’s generous and progressive rulers. Last year, I wrote about Giuseppe Arone’s brainchild: The Medici Dynasty Show. The multi-media, interactive, and educational presentation was both innovative and unique. Of course, Giuseppe did it with the help of many talented people and the show’s two actors: Carolina Gamini and Tim Daish. Marissa Garreffa, a writer and Australian expat, rewrote the scriptand she did so brilliantly. The show flows like a theatrical performance combining moments of light humor with pockets of intense drama. Now, audience members get to see a different side of the debauched and often mocked Grand Duke Gian Gastone; a noble, humanistic side that evokes our empathy for a man whose destiny was preordained. Historical facts are presented in a manner that makes the audience participant yearn to know more about this incredible dynastic family. Some of the multimedia aspects of
last year’s show has been included this year, like images of relevant artworks and music. The new venue is truly amazing: the former Convent of Sant’Onofrio delle Monache di Foligno, which dates back to the early 15th century. The building is richly decorated with vibrant, well-preserved frescoes by famous local artists like Neri di Bicci. The quiet cloister is charming and the performance takes places within a small Baroque church boasting lovely sculptures and frescoed ceiling. In the span of about an hour, the show presents 300 years of Medici history that will surely enrich your trip to Florence. Ticket price is 30 euro (kids under 12 are free) and it’s well worth the investment. Discounts are available for students and groups. For more information or to book seats, please visit their website: medicidynasty.com
OCTOBER www.florencenews.it
Who Was Cosimo The Elder? Meet the Father of the Medici Dynasty and Renaissance
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osimo di Giovanni de’ Medici, or as he is most commonly known, Cosimo The Elder was born on April 19th 1389. He was the first in his family to gain political status, thus igniting the Medici political dynasty. Cosimo’s power stemmed from his inheritance. From his father, he received the entire patrimony of his family which included his family’s enterprise, the Medici Bank. He became one of the richest men of his time, even wealthier than his father. Cosimo married Contessina de’ Bardi, whose noble family ran one of the wealthiest banks in Europe called the Compagnia dei Bardi, The Bardi Company. Even after the fall of The Bardi Company in 1345, the Bardi still remained a prominent family in Florence. Cosimo and Contessina had two sons together, Piero and Giovanni. He also had an illegitimate child, Carlo, with a slave from Circassia, once a country and now a region located along the Black Sea. In 1433, Cosimo was arrested and banished from Florence by the Albizi family, his predecessor who was threatened by Cosimo’s growing popularity. Not long after his exile was he summoned back to Florence by the Republic to deal with the demands of the public. Cosimo then, in turn, banished the Albizi and took control of pub-
Considered a patron of the arts during the time of the Renaissance, Cosimo utilized his wealth to the building of architectural works. This helped him gain political power and the votes of the populace. lic office, governing from the background. Considered a patron of the arts during the time of the Renaissance, Cosimo utilized his wealth to the building of architectural works. This helped him gain political power and the votes of the populace. He commissioned sculptures and paintings but mostly architectural works such as Palazzo Medici-Riccardi, the Medici Palace, designed by Michelozzo, San Lorenzo Church designed by Filippo Brunelleschi as well as San Marco Church also by Michelozzo. He had a close relationship with the classical sculpturist, Donatello,
which led to the production of the bronze sculpture of David. As an important part of the humanist movement during the period of the Renaissance, Cosimo founded the first public library in Florence in 1444. Upon his death on August 1st 1464, the government of Renaissance Florence, also known as the Signoria, honored him with the title of Pater Patriae, Father of the Nation. He died in his villa, the Villa of Careggi, which was designed by his dear friend Michelozzo and his crypt was placed in San Lorenzo Church.
Three generations of women span the most exciting period of Medici history....
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ARTISAN LEATHER JOURNALS & ITALIAN PENS Situated 30 meters from the Ponte Vecchio, Pinart has offered quality stationery for more than 20 years. • •
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Books, notebooks and photo albums in artisan-worked leather with handmade paper; A large selection of writing instruments from top Italian brands, including fountain, roller and ballpoint pens; Hand-painted wooden boxes and photo frames portraying details from Florentine monuments.
Open: Mon–Sat: 10 a.m.–7:30 p.m.; Sun: 11 a.m.–7 p.m. Via Guicciardini, 2/r 055 23 98 450 www.pinart.it
A Historical Novel by C. De Melo Available on Amazon www.cdemelo.com
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12 Florence News
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Florence Creativity Returns for Fall 2016 Edition
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reativity never ends. Especially at the fall edition of the Florence Creativity Festival, which is taking place at the Fortezza da Basso next month from Thursday October 27 to Sunday October 30. The fair, now at its fifth year, includes events, courses and presentations of new ideas, techniques and materials. Disciples of the art of do-it-yourself can find an enormous array of fabric, buttons, paint, brushes, needles, thread, glue and paper to stimulate his or her creativity. Courses offered include various silk painting techniques, home
décor, cutting, sewing, creative sewing, crochet, knitting, repairs, weaving for children and adults alike, creative workshops for children, creating bracelets, bijoux, and necklaces, processing wool, painting and many more, as infinite as the ways that human creativity can express itself. One of the most popular initiatives at the last edition, Creative Zoo offers participants a panel to create a zoo following given patterns that can be downloaded from the fair website, www.florencecreativity.it. Opening hours run from 9.30 a.m. to 7 p.m. Tickets cost €10 for adults
and €5 for children. Entrance is free for children under 10, as well as for disabled patrons and caregivers. The event also offers a number of ticket deals: Thursdays and Fridays enable two people to enter for the price of a single €10 ticket, while four-day tickets cost €16. Groups of more than 10 people pay €5 a head, and for each group bigger than 20 people a free ticket is given to the organizer. Those interested in becoming exhibitors can find a form on the website. www.florencecreativity.it
OCTOBER www.florencenews.it
OCTOBER www.florencenews.it
Culture Shock Symptoms, consequences and how to deal with it
FEDERICO CURCIO
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ou knew it would be challenging but you didn’t expect it to be so tough. Some people around you speak english so you can communicate and fill the gap but when it comes to habits, trends, gestures and even common sense, it’s a totally different story. Admit it: you sometimes feel lost. A culture map would help but besides some resistant stereotypes - many of which are false, as you soon discover - your culture compass doesn’t work and you find yourself questioning even the smallest details: why do they do
this? Why do they say that? And, for goodness sake!, do they really behave that way? You are experiencing culture shock, that strange feeling of personal disorientation that people face when immersed in an alien environment, in which they are due to stay longer than a vacation. It usually shows in ups and downs: one day you love your new life and think you’ll never leave, the very next day you find yourself freaking out for little things and dreaming about coming back to your home country. Being aware of culture shock is the first step towards an effective recovery. Instead of refusing the idea, start a journal, where you list the
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Florence News 13
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occasions during which you feel uncomfortable in your new life: for example, buses seem to be never on time and this makes you get crazy; bread is tasteless and is not shining white; olive oil is not crystal clear; italians touch too much. For each item of your list, find the reasons why it is so: buses are late because mediterranean people usually have a slower internal clock and take life easier; genuine bread has never been white and we do not use salt otherwise it would kill food flavours; genuine olive oil is green, opaque and tasty, while the commercialized one is filtered and (to our tastebuds) almost tasteless; we touch your forearms (and, yes, your elbow is our target of choice) or shoulders to make you feel accepted and closer to us. Ask yourself if you can live with all this and find ways to make you comfortable: you can read while waiting for your buses (they are seldom late); start enjoying bread and different food; buy genuine olive oil (and shake the bottle before pouring oil on your favourite food); explain people you enjoy their company but you just don’t like to be touched. Speak about your experiences with trusted expats and locals: the former have been through the shock before you so they can support and give you useful advice; the latter can be your picklock to the alien culture vault door. Accept that culture shock does exist, it can be properly managed and it will help you better understand yourself and the world around you. Enjoy your stay!
In Florence there is a new pharmacy
Cavour Come to visit us. You will find a wide range of skincare products dedicated to you. Ask your pharmacist for advice.
Since its foundation in 1982, Medical Service Firenze has developed a solid reputation for providing rapid, reliable assistance to tourists and residents in need of medical attention. We accept all major travel/medical insurance policies. SERVICES INCLUDE: • 24-hour prompt house calls by general practitioners all year round. • Our physicians are available for walk-in visits to our clinic on Via Roma, 4. Monday to Fri.: 11 a.m.–12 p.m., 1–3 p.m., & 5–6 p.m.; Sat.: 11 a.m.–12 p.m. & 1–3 p.m. • Prompt consultation with specialists by appointment. • All the medical staff speak English. • For information or request visit our clinic from Mon.–Fri.: 9:30 a.m.–1:30p.m. Via Roma, 4 055 475 411 medserv@tin.it www.medicalservice.firenze.it
Lloyds Farmacia Cavour Via Cavour, 59/R Firenze We are open for you: Monday to Saturday 9.00 - 20.00
TOURIST INFORMATION SOS
EMERGENCIES
Emergency Phone Number: 113 Ambulance Service: 118 Carabinieri (National Military Police): 112 Environmental Emergency: 1515 Fire Department: 115
The Firenzecard is a way for tourists and locals alike to visit the countless museums the city has to offer. For 72â‚Ź, the card includes the cost of entrance, the ticket for the exhibition, and the reservation for all the museums of the Firenzecard Circuit.The card lasts 72 hours after it is activated. Activation occurs when the card is used for the first time at a museum. Cardholders do not need to make any reservation with Firenzecard because it includes, in its price, the reservation for all the museums. With Firenzecard, cardholders can visit the museums when they choose and can access to the museums through the reserved entrance. Firenzecard can be used at 67 museums, but it can only be used once per museum. The card cannot be shared or transferred. For more information on the card or to purchase one, visit www.firenzecard.it
+ HEALTH SERVICES Piazza Duomo: 055 212221 Open Pharmacies: 800 420707 Veterinary Services: 055 7223683 Poison Center: 055 7947819
LAW ENFORCEMENT Railway Police: 055 211012 Florence Municipal Police: 055 3283333 Local National Police Force: 055 49771 Fire and Rescue Service: 055 24901
Your Private Concierge in Florence Every day problem solving - Workshops Access to treasures off the beaten path Property finding. Ask with confidence Contact us at +39 055 5357527 www.florenceoncall.com
BUSES Ataf: 6 a.m.-9 p.m. : 800424500 Li-nea: Bus info, 055 7355742 FBUSITALIA: SITA NORD: Via Santa Caterina da Siena 15 www.fsbusitalia. it, 800 373760 ETRURIA MOBILITA SCARL (Arezzo): www.etruriamobilita.it 0575 39881
i
TOURIST INFO POINTS
Via Cavour, 1r - 055 290833 Vespucci Airport - 055 315874 Piazza del Duomo - 055 215440 Piazza Stazione, 4 - 055 212245
ON THE ROAD Roadside Assistance for Foreigners: 800 116800 Obstruction, theft, and towed vehicles: 055 4224142 Highways, route planning and traffic jams: www.autostrade.it/en
AIRPORTS A Vespucci, Firenze Peretola: www.aeroporto.firenze.it/en 055 3061300 Lost and found: 055 3061302 G. Galilei, Pisa: www.pisa-airport.com 050 849300 Lost and found: 050 849400
TRAINS Trenitalia: 89 2021 Interactive Voice Response System: 063000 Italo: Call center, 6 a.m.-11 p.m. 060708
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OCTOBER www.florencenews.it
Learning to Sew... MARIANNA JAROSS
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olourful, creative, and social” are three words used by founder and creator Romana Rocchino to describe Merenda in Sartoria, a needlecraft workshop tucked away on the quieter side of bridge, in the heart of San Frediano. Sewing machines are available to rent for those who need only the equipment to do make their own clothes, or do repairs without assistance or supervision. For those who are new to the art of sewing and design, Rocchino offers ‘Stitch and Bitch’ sessions to learn how to create, repair, transform or customize a wardrobe. What the shop offers is not simply limited to sewing; classes are avail-
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able in knitting, crocheting, and other workshops are run throughout the year, further fusing creativity with a friendly atmosphere. In fact, the workshop’s title derives from the idea of enjoying afternoon tea at the tailor’s. Merenda in Sartoria is a great place to delve into the world of design more seriously for aspiring seamstresses, or to pursue a budding hobby amidst an environment of good conversation and innovation. Events are announced on Facebook.
Merenda in Sartoria Via del Drago d’Oro, 11/r 338 958 9205 info@merendainsartoria.com
... to Make Jewels
mong the many international schools and art institutes in Florence, there is one that stands out particularly because of its originality in its philosophy and unique teaching methods. That would be, Alchimia School of Contemporary Jewellery, where the art of contemporary jewellery making is guided, taught and nurtured. The name of the school reflects its mission, as ‘Alchimia’ is a term that recalls the ancient discipline crossing science and metaphysics. The courses offered range from beginning to advanced levels, and
gives students the possibility to develop high technical skills, elaborate artistic concepts and express their creative language. The teaching method focuses on giving value to the skills of each student and their individual nature. It is precisely this that has given Alchimia the possibility to win several international prizes and acknowledgements.
PAINTING Short and & Longterm DRAWING Workshops on Painting and INTENSIVE Drawing 10 DAYS WORKSHOP DAY CLASSES STUDIO RENTAL AVAILABLE www.facebook.com/studiotoscanella/ Via Toscanella 33R , 50123 Firenze 3407371239 340 737 1239 www.studiotoscanella.com www.studiotoscanella.com
Piazza Piattellina 3/r Tel. +39 055 2396154 E-Mail: info@alchimia.it
Florence News 15
CITY BEAT
... to Paint
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he Studio d’Arte Toscanella is a visual arts workshop located in the most traditional Florentine heart of the historical center of Florence. Just steps from Palazzo Pitti, art students of all levels can benefit from lessons. The Studio provides courses in drawing and painting. The aim of the courses is to help the student combine ancient techniques with a modern eye. Students should expect to explore and develop traditional art techniques. The Studio offers single sessions, and intensive workshops, shortand long-term, as well as private and group lessons. Teaching is done on an individual basis and provides personalized training with step-bystep coaching in the execution of
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In Tavola aims to spread the rich food and wine culinary traditions of Italy and the Tuscany region through an incredible variety of dishes and recipes to all interested in learning the secrets behind the traditional Italian kitchen. With this intent to promote their knowledge, In Tavola organizes several opportunities for professionals and beginners to participate in cooking and baking lessons with the guidance of professional Chefs in an individual or group setting.
Via dei Velluti, 18/20r 055 217672 www.intavola.org
collections, and antique shops of sculptors and restorers, making it the perfect setting for a unique and enriching educational experience. More information can be found at the Studio’s Facebook page.
Via Toscanella 33R 340 737 1239
... and to Sculpt
eir to five generations of sculptors, Raffaello Romanelli specializes in portraiture and opens his family workshop at the Romanelli Studio Gallery to individual and group lessons. This practice continues the ancient tradition of master and apprentice, in which young boys worked under a master craftsman in order to learn his secrets (known as ‘andare a bottega’). Raffaello guides the students in learning the basic technique of modeling a realistic subject in clay with the traditional ‘sight-size method’, which trains the eyes to
Cooking Classes
the pieces. Not only can students get practice in creating still life pieces, but also portraits and nude figure drawings based on live models. The Studio is also kid-friendly, inviting families to the space in order to help children develop their artistic skills with watercolors, colored pencils, and oil paints. Sessions are conducted every Monday, Tuesday, and Wednesday beginning at 6:00 p.m. Sessions on Thursday, Friday, and Saturday are throughout the day in the morning, afternoon, and evening. The Studio will also consider special time and day requests. Located in the Oltrarno area, the Studio’s neighborhood is full of local artisans, art galleries, museum
measure the proportions and volumes of the figure. The studio also offers the opportunity to learn how to prepare works for kiln firing, as well as the molding technique to cast in plaster. The Romanelli Studio Gallery is one of the oldest active sculpture studios in Europe. Originally a church, it became a sculpture studio in the early nineteenth century under Lorenzo Bartolini, who was then succeeded by his favorite student, Pasquale Romanelli. Five generation later, the studio is still owned and run by the Romanel-
Tattoo Piercing Via degli alfani 32/r Firenze +39 344 20 48 393 +39 342 75 47 804 Fb: Blood Brotherhood
#bloodbhtattoo
li family. It offers weekly courses from Monday to Friday, as well as part-time courses or single lessons, with beginner courses available. Each class lasts three hours and takes place at the studio’s historic workshop in Borgo San Frediano in the Oltrarno district, long a haunt of Florence’s top artisans. Participants can coordinate the program and class schedule with the teacher.
Galleria Romanelli
Borgo San Frediano, 70 www.raffaelloromanelli.com
NEW GYM NEAR SANTA MARIA NOVELLA Brand new gym in the heart of Florence is now open. • Fully outfitted with the latest cardio & strength equipment from Technogym • Offering a wide array of classes ranging from Zumba to Pilates, every week • All-inclusive memberships with no sign-up fees • Special pricing for students • Friendly English-speaking staff • Free wi-fi Mon. to Fri.: 8 a.m.-10 p.m, Saturday: 10 a.m.-6 p.m, Sunday: 10 a.m.-1 p.m. Via dei Fossi, 56/r 055 23 96 497
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16 Florence News
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A ‘Port’ for Jazz and Traditional Italian Music A
s with any port, Porto di Mare-Eskimo is synonymous with exchange, correspondence, and coming and going. This year the club has an important novelty: courses of typical Italian dance Tarantella, which will be taking place on Friday night. Porto di Mare's focus on live music and cultural exchange is one that the man who started the club, Francesco Cofone, holds close to his heart.
“We never play anything recorded here” he says with a smile. The method of bridging cultures at Porto di Mare is just getting out an instrument and beginning to play. “I’d be keen to talk to anyone who is interested in playing and sharing their music with us,” Francesco says. The club has also created its own big band, the Eskimo Jazz Orchestra. An all-star Tuscan jazz band born under the initiative of
Francesco, it includes some of the biggest and respected names on the jazz scene amongst its members. Among these are trumpeter and band conductor Fabio Morgera, who played under legendary American jazz cornetist; composer and conductor Butch Morris for 30 years in New York; Dario Cecchini, sax and leader of Italian marching band Funk Off; trumpeter Luca Marianini; trombone player Stefano Scalzi and guitarist Riccardo Onori, who both played alongside renowned Italian singer-songwriter and rapper Jovanotti; percussionists Walter Paoli, ex-member of 1970s Italian jazz, progressive rock and electronic group Area, and Piero Borri; clarinet player Nico Gori; and guitarists Paolo Conte, Ivano Fossati and Riccardo Galardini – to name just (a little more than) a few.
Porto di Mare CHECK THE PROGRAM ON FACEBOOK CONTACT FRANCESCO COFONE Via Pisana, 128 055 71 20 34 Porto di Mare
www.florencenews.it
Murano Glass
M
urano glass and Carnevale mask enthusiasts need not travel to Venice for quality souvenir items. Alvise Giustinian is a gift and art store specializing in Murano-made items, which guarantees the sale of purely Murano products without importation. Products include masks, jewelry, and glass objects for the home. Jewelry has proven to be the shop’s most popular item, due to the ease of transport and availability of products starting at merely €5, according to its owner Paola. Alvise Giustinian’s spacious interior allows for an abundant selection of gifts and a comfortable shopping experience. Paola’s customers tell her that prices in this beautiful, museum-like shop are lower than those in Venice.
Alvise Giustinian
Corso Tintori, 19/r (near Santa Croce) www.alvisegiustian.com
Ice Cream made daily
Open every day
OCTOBER
A Shuttle to the Barberino Designer Outlet Located in the green heart of Tuscany, just 30 minutes from Florence, Barberino Designer Outlet is the shopping destination where you can shop 200 of the most luxurious Designer fashion Brands, including Dolce & Gabbana, Michael Kors, Hugo Boss, Polo Ralph Lauren, Nike, Patrizia Pepe and many more at 30-70% less all year round. You can reach Barberino Designer Outlet with a comfortable shuttle bus service from Florence train station, 8 times a day. Tickets can be purchased online or directly on the bus. Price is €13 per person, round trip. Traveling with the shuttle bus, you will also be entitled to get the exclusive FASHION PASSPORT, the discount card which will grant you an additional 10% reduction on the Outlet price. Shuttle bus to Barberino Designer Outlet departs from Florence, Piazza Stazione 44 (in front of the Zoppini store) at: 9.30 a.m. –11.30 a.m. –2.00 p.m. – 4.00 p.m. Return to Florence at: 1.00 p.m. – 3.00 p.m. – 6.00 p.m. – 8.00p.m. For more information visit www.mcarthurglen.it/barberino TAX FREE ON YOUR FAVORITE BRANDS
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18 Florence News
HALLOWEEN
OCTOBER www.florencenews.it
HALLOWEEN IN FLORENCE: What to See, Do, and Eat C.D. MELO
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ounded by the Romans in 59 BCE, it is no surprise that witches and ghosts have made their mark during Florence’s long history. Several years ago, Halloween was virtually unheard of- much less celebrated- in Italy. Fortunately, this is no longer the case.
WHAT TO SEE: 1. Hotel / Pensione Burchianti: This 17th century building contains beautiful frescoes and gracious rooms. Although the late Mussolini himself has spent the night there, it is rumored that the owner does not. Why? Burchianti is said to be haunted. Guests have reported seeing a male ghost, but don’t worry, he’s apparently friendly. People have also reported feeling shifts of air (as if someone has entered the room), icy breath / vapor, and the feeling of the bed sinking as if someone was sitting on the bed- when there’s no one there, of course! 2. Fort Belvedere: Across the river in the Oltrarno there is a medieval fortress that stands proudly atop a hill. This is the area where the city burned the damned: those
accused of witchcraft and murder. It is said the restless spirits of these condemned people are still there, causing grief and mischief for the living. Supposedly, some of the winding, curvy roads vibrate at night with supernatural energy and people have reported not only hearing voices, but seeing ghostlike apparitions walk along the medieval walls. 3. San Miniato al Monte Cemetery: No Halloween is complete without a visit to the local graveyard and Florence has an incredible one. This famous, frequently visited cemetery lies just outside the city center, behind the 11th century monastery dedicated to St. Minius. It is full of hauntingly beautiful statues, mausoleums so grand that any vampire would be proud to be entombed within their walls, and gravestones complete with eerie black and white photographs of the deceased. Famous Italians are buried there, too, like Carlo Collodi- the author of Pinocchio. WHAT DO: Florence Inferno: This is a spooky walking tour that takes place at night. You are encouraged to dress in costume (www.florenceinferno.
com). Tasso Hostel: In addition to hosting a fabulous open-mic night on the first Wednesday of each month, they throw a mean Halloween costume party. With a big indoor / outdoor space and cocktail bar, you will definitely want to dress up for this event (tassohostelflorence. com). WHAT TO EAT: 1. Tartufo (truffle): Aromatic, mouth-watering fungi that can be grated or sliced on meats, pasta, pizza- just about anything! Black or white, they are absolutely delicious. 2. Cavolo Nero (kale): Used in making the famous ribollita soup, which is hearty, healthy and tasty. You can also find this leafy green atop tuscan bread as a crostino. 3. Zucca (pumpkin): Used in ravioli (divine), soup, and even gelato. 4. Castagna (chestnuts): Wonderful when roasted (they are sold on the streets), but also a unique flavor for gelato. Try castagnaccio , which is a torte made with chestnut flour. And of course, wash it all down with wonderful red wine from the
Chianti! Have a safe, healthy, and happy Halloween- and if you have any ghostly encounters in the Renaissance city, please let us know on our Florence News Facebook page!
C. De Melo Author of SABINA and other unique fiction novels www.cdemelo.com
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20 Florence News
HALLOWEEN
OCTOBER www.florencenews.it
Dirty Deeds and... Dire Deaths
Horror Between Florence’s Bloody Walls
IVANA SCATOLA
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t is said that the feast of Halloween originated from a merging of harvest festivals, pagan celebrations of the dead and most importantly, as the eve before the two day Christian feast days All Hallows’ or All Saints’ Day (November 1), and All Souls’ Day, (November 2): a feast for the dead. With this somber theme in mind, we look back at the most famous deaths Florence has produced in its civic history, and their various sinister forms. The most famous of these is undoubtedly that of Girolamo Savonarola: Dominican friar, Florentine influential political personage and preacher. Savonarola was renowned for his passionate sermons, in which he entirely condemned moral corruption and forewarned of an oncoming apocalypse. He orchestrated the so-called ‘Bonfire of the Vanities’, which was responsible for destroying thousands of Renaissance treasures: books, artworks (allegedly some by Botticelli), clothes and musical instruments, all set alight in an attempt to purge the city of materialistic goods and temptations. After denouncing Pope Alexander VI, he was naturally excommunicated by the leader of the Catholic Church, and soon the city turned against him. He was arrested and imprisoned with fellow friars Fra Dome-
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nico and Fra Silvestro Maruffi, and tortured, until he confessed that he had invented seeing prophecies and visions that he had previously claimed were divine. The three friars were publicly hanged and then (ironically) burnt in the Piazza della Signoria on May 23, 1498, precisely where a commemorative plaque in honour of the three lies today. Other famous deaths granted by the city are those of the conspirators of the Pazzi plot against the Medici family. An attempt to overthrow the Medici family and their political hold over the city
by means of the assassination of brothers Lorenzo and Giuliano de’ Medici was dramatically carried out in the Duomo, during Mass. The attempt was not entirely successful; Giuliano was killed and Lorenzo was merely wounded, and the conspirators were humiliated in facing their fates. Jacopo de’ Pazzi was flung from a window, and mobs dragged his naked body through the streets and threw it in the Arno. Francesco Salviati was hanged from the walls of the Palazzo Vecchio, and Bernardo di Bandino Baroncelli was publicly executed at the Bargello.
ith Halloween creeping (quite literally) upon us, you can’t help but wonder about Florence’s eclectic history and the sights it must have witnessed in the past. Behind the extraordinary monuments and breathtaking architecture that comprise this city, it is inevitable that a few sinister and gory sights took place. The Bargello National Museum with its gothic Florentine architecture is an ideal location for a horror film. Indeed, as one of the oldest buildings in the city — dating back to 1255 — the Bargello was not always a museum. It now holds some of the city’s most precious sculptures and treasures, including works by Donatello, Michelangelo and Cellini. However, before 1865, the building was the headquarters for the Head of the Guards, whose responsibility it was to arrest, question, and condemn criminals. By 1574, the building had been transformed into a prison, complete with torture chambers. The prison witnessed important
historical moments: sieges, fires and executions such as that of Bernardo di Bandino Baroncelli, conspirator of the infamous Pazzi plot against the Medici family. Furthermore, as a warning and reminder of the building’s purpose, apparently a tree stump would be placed outside the building displaying the victim’s head, for all to see. American writer Charles Godfrey Leland’s reports in his Legends of Florence Collected from the People (1896), that prisoners of the Bargello were subject to horrendous cruelty and maltreatment. He writes that when Cosimo de’ Medici was preparing the venom to poison Piero Strozzi, he would experiment on condemned prisoners of the Bargello. Similarly, Le Murate, a notorious Florentine location for public housing, restaurants, bars and shops and a popular social and cultural hub, is in fact another converted prison and convent. It began in 1424 as the Santissima Annunziata alle Murate and Santa Caterina convent, home to the Benedictine nuns who gave the building its name.
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OCTOBER www.florencenews.it
Eurochocolate Returns Oct. 14-23
HANNAH NAGLE
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he Eurochocolate Festival celebrates its 23rd edition with nine days of chocolate tastings and events this month. The festival, considered the essential chocolate exhibition for all of Europe, originated in 1993 and has since grown to expect about one million attendees, comprised of both Italians and tourists. The nine-day event takes place in Perugia’s historic town square, in the capital city of the Umbria region. Among the numerous chocolate factories participating in the festival are some major brands such as Nestlé, Lindt, Caffarel, Milka, and Toblerone, and local, less known but still delicious connoisseurs. Activities offered at the 2016 edition include the “Master & Courses,” chocolate tastings and cooking classes taking place every day
from 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. “Chocolate with the Writer,” takes place every day at 6 p.m. giving visitors the opportunity to talk with national and international authors about their work while drinking hot chocolate. The “Chocolate show,” takes place everyday from 9 a.m. to 8 p.m., during which over 140 of the most famous chocolate brands in the world come together for the ultimate chocolate experience. Other chocolate lover favorites are “Eurochocolate World” and “Chocolate Sculptures”. Eurochocolate World takes place every day from 10 a.m. to 8 p.m and showcases the various countries that produce cocoa, allowing visitors to sample flavors from around the world. Chocolate Sculptures, takes place only on Sunday Oct. 16 during which sculptors mold huge blocks of chocolate into art. The main attraction, the “Maxi Choco Selfie Stick” allows visitors to come on stage and take a selfie
next to the 7-meter-long Chocolate selfie stick holding a 6 kilograms chocolate bar in place of an iphone. Making the deal even sweeter, entrance to the festival and all activities are free of charge. A “choco card” can be bought for only 6 Euro that entitles visitors to discounts on Eurochocolate souvenirs. Souvenirs for this year include t-shirts, smartphone cases, mugs, and of course, all things chocolate. This year, the festival’s theme will be “sharing chocolate age,” and the hashtag will be #conchi, meaning #withwhom. For those attending Eurochocolate festival, post your pictures on social media with the #conchi hashtag for a chance to win a chocolate gift. To book a trip to Eurochocolate visit the bus2alps website: bus2alps.com
FRESH AND ORIGINAL SINCE 2004 Tel. (+39) 055 290748 | Via dell’Acqua, 2/R - 50122 Firenze
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Florence News 21
FOOD&WINE
NYT Article Sparks Controversy on Bolognese Ragù Sauce
HEATHER DONNER
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recent article by the New York Times titled “Rigatoni with White Bolognese Recipe” created a funny controversy in Italy - and particularly in Bologna, the city where ragù originated - as The New York Times ‘suggested’ that tomatoes are not needed for ragù. Bologna readers jumped on their chairs. They were quick to comment that Bolognese ragù without tomatoes cannot exist. They also pointed out that a real Bolognese sauce is served with tagliattelle or lasagna and never with the rigatoni noodles that the New York Times recommends. An official version of the recipe was even ratified by the Bologna Chamber of Commerce
in 1982.To defend the recipe, and the poor Bologna readers and ragù lovers, was one of the most read newspapers in Italy, la Repubblica, that on its Bologna pages wrote about the controversy giving voice to the frustration of the Bolognese people. Comments varied from angry to ironic. “Call this recipe as you want but not ‘Bolognese,’ and do not let any Italian look at you during the preparation,” reads a comment on the article. “Father, forgive them; for they do not know what they are doing.” This was not the first controversy around the Bolognese ragù. In July of 2016, the Bologna airport had to ask Ryanair to stop advertising flights to Bologna by tweetting that “Bologna is the home of spaghetti bolognese, how can you not love her?” as spaghetti is not traditional in Bologna.
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22 Florence News
FOOD&WINE
Mistakes to Avoid When Making a Pizza
OCTOBER www.florencenews.it
Let the dough rest for too little time: You must set the yeast aside so that it can “rest” for two to three hours after first making it to enable the yeast to work. Then divide it into small sections of 200–300 grams and allow it to sit for six to eight hours to become soft. Manipulate the dough too much: After the lasting resting session, roll out the dough and begin to form the shape of the pizza. However, you must also tap and knead the dough to make it firm. Bake in an inappropriate baking tin: The perfect pizza requires a lot of heat, especially from underneath. Consequently a thin aluminum pan will give you the best results.
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he best way to approach the preparation of a pizza, rather than with what should be done, is probably by avoiding what should not be done. Here is a list of the most common mistakes that people often make when preparing their own pizza. Use improper flour: This is important because it sets up the
foundation of your pizza, the crust. If the correct flour is not used for the dough, it can prevent the crust from rising or make it rubbery. Use an average-strength flour that has 10–12 grams of protein. Combine the yeast and salt wrongly: This must be done in a very specific way. Mix the two
Merano Wine Festival Returns Nov. 4-8
ingredients first in two separate bowls with water before putting them together. This prevents the salt from damaging the yeast.
Use mozzarella that is too damp: Make sure you drain the mozzarella before you put it on your pizza. The best way to do this is to cut it the night before and set it in a colander in a refrigerator overnight or for a few hours. This method is also effective for buffalo mozzarella. Put on toppings before baking: If you apply the toppings too early, they will burn your pizza. Instead, put the mozzarella and vegetables on right before the pizza is done cooking. Toppings like ham or meat can be added after it has been removed from the oven.
HEATHER DONNER
T
he 25th edition of the Merano Wine Festival is returning next month at the Pavillon des Fleurs in the Merano Kurhaus. The festival is one of the most famous in the world for its kind and is known for its variety of quality wines from all over the world and its food selections. From Nov. 4 to 8, from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., event goers will have the opportunity to taste the world’s top certified biological and organic wines from 300 wine producers from all the regions of Italy and over 50 international producers from countries such as Argentina, Austria, Croatia, Chile, France, Germany, Romania, Serbia, Slovenia, Spain and Uruguay. Next to wine, over 70 food stands from master craftsmen and small producers will be showcasing their products including aceto balsamico, a particular type of Italian vinegar, olive oil, cheese, ham, sausages, sauces, sweet, coffee, chocolate and more. You can find these stands at the festival in the GourmetArena connected to the Meran Kurhaus. For those who prefer beer over wine, a stage in the GourmetArena area featuring ten brewers will
be set. Other event attractions include culinary awards, show cooking, chef’s challenges and masterclasses with professionals. For more detailed information on the event, how to get there, where to sleep etc., see the official website of the Merano Festival: www.meranowinefestival.com
Merano Wine Festival When: November 4-8 Where: Merano, Italy Cost: €31,50-121,50 www.meranowinefestival.com
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Near
Santo Spirito
The Trattoria di Boboli in Oltrarno It was Federico Fellini’s favorite restaurant in Florence. It was here that the most famous Italian movie director of all time loved to spend the beginning of his nights in Florence. Drinking good red wine, chatting with friends, breathing the most authentic atmosphere of the city and eating the traditional, homemade food that he loved. Via Romana, 45/R 055 233 6401
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24 Florence News
FOOD&WINE
OCTOBER www.florencenews.it
The ‘Italian’ Dishes that Don’t Actually Exist in Italy HEATHER DONNER Many tourists who travel around Italy, and more generally many foreigners, have misconceptions about authentic Italian food. They are often surprised to find that common American “Italian” dishes such as penne alfredo, garlic bread, spaghetti with meatballs and pepperoni pizza are nowhere to be found on a restaurant menù in Italy. Those tourists, or foreigners, quickly discover that Ameri-
ca’s favorite Italian foods are not actually authentic Italian. These misconceptions on authentic Italian food are often the result of Italian emigration. Over one hundred years ago, Italians came to America and became
poverty-stricken farmers. They practiced a style of cooking called “cucina povera”, which translates to “poor kitchen”. Italian immigrants were forced to cook with only readily available ingredients and leftovers. They could not afford many of the ingredients used in authentic Italian meals, and this led to changes in the original recipes. In this way, the new Italian-Americans altered, and forever americanized, some of the most famous Italian dishes. An article recently published in
The Local, the largest English-language news network in Europe, shows how and why some of the very popular American-Italian dishes were created. And so we discover that penne alfredo originated in America in the
1920’s and does not exist in Italy. It was created when an Italian, easy to guess by the name of Alfredo, served a pasta dish with butter and sage. Due to the lack of ingredients, he eventually created ‘penne alfredo’, a dish which uses cream and parsley instead of butter and sage. Similarly, America’s go-to Italian dish of spaghetti with meatballs is not authentic Italian at all. This dish was likely created by Italian immigrants unable to find quality tomatoes and thus forced to add meat to their sauce to make it thicker as meat was more readily available. Italians do eat, and do love meatballs, but never in their pasta. Meatballs, here in Italy, are traditionally served as a
main course or starter dish, and are accompanied by vegetables, beans or potatoes. Another popular American-Italian dish, and in many cases just ‘American’, is piz-
za. In America, strange pizza toppings such as ham and pineapples are frequent. That’s fine. But it is a common misconception by Americans that this kind of pizza, or pizzas, are authentic Italian: Such toppings would probably stimulate the irony of an Italian pizza maker. Then we should also consider that Italian regions differ in culinary specialties. Americans often assume that a popular Italian dish in their country is also popular amongst all of Italy. In reality, a popular American-Italian dish could stem from a small Italian village and may not be popular, at all, in the rest of Italy. As you travel across Italy, do not be shocked if you do not find your favorite ‘Italian’ dish on the menù. It may be that that dish is typical of another region or another place, or more likely that, in Italy, one of your favorite ‘Italian’ dishes simply does not exist.
THE MOST FAMOUS DISCO IN FLORENCE CLUB RESTAURANT & SHOW
YAB FLORENCE The most famous disco of Florence - which is a point of reference for generations both in Italy and abroad (boasting more than 36 years of successful nights after its first one in 1979) – shows a completely novel look, abreast with the syles raging in the world, fruit of studies and collaborations of experienced people who have met the requirements of the owners. Artists such as Robert De Niro, Sylvester Stallone, Sean Penn, Madonna, David Bowie, Yves Saint Laurent and others are our stricly friends.
RESTAURANT (OPENING SOON) YAB is also host a new indoor RESTAURANT with a menu making an ideal haunt for dinners, birthday and company parties. Service at the table in the new restaurant, along with an elegant Snack/Point working untill late, offers a selection of the best beers and the images of Italian and international football matches as well as other great sport events on maxiscreen.
YAB THE APP Take YAB on your mobile phone and follow the many trends that we have always been able to grasp in our programming. Look for "YAB Firenze" on the App Store and Play Store. YAB Firenze, the temple of music and the best DJs!
Via dei Sassetti, 5 • 055215160 • www.yab.it
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26 Florence News
LIFESTYLE
OCTOBER www.florencenews.it
From the Ayatollahs to the Milan Fashion Scene The story of Iranian model Elham Daliri
SAMINA ABEDINI
I
n her land, she could not have made a fortune with her beauty. Or, at least, to make a fortune she should have fought against a prejudice – according to which beauty should not bring fame, money, and success to a woman. Yet, in Milan, her dream came true, and now she is a symbol of that same country that somehow wanted to prevent her from being such
symbol, Iran. Iran is a country that craves for western fashion, style, and design. Elham is giving to the world of fashion something new, a middle-eastern ‘touch’ that nothing better than her somatic traits, her dark eyes, and her self-confident expression could define. Elham Daliri was born in Teheran 30 years ago. Here, in the capital of the land of the Ayatollahs, she studied architecture and philosophy, and she graduated at one of the most prestigious universities in the world, the Azan University.
Architecture and philosophy are what Elham communicates with and through her body. After a long career in the capitals of middle-eastern glamour, she took the leap in Milan presenting a new line of polish by two emerging stylists from Brescia, Luca Gonzini and Serena Archetti, in the Trussardi flagship just behind the central Milanese square Piazza della Scala. It was here that her hands, or rather her fingernails, grasped success. Choosing Elham out of all the available models was not a casual choice. It was during a trip to Morocco that Gonzini noticed the strong colors used in that country by women for their cosmetics, most of them made from natural substances such as the Argan oil, which is produced in a forest that covers 800.000 hectares in the Souss Valley of southern Morocco. In 1998 this region was declared a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. This is the story of model Elham Daliri. A woman that has joined her beauty and culture to the strongest determination to grasp what she wanted. A woman that has been stronger than a part of her own culture, and that probably of her own culture embodies the very best.
THE FIRST HOOKAH BAR IN FLORENCE
RESTAURANT
SPECIALTY: TRADITIONAL ITALIAN SEAFOOD
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Piazza Madonna degli Aldobrandini, 3R – Firenze 055 3997593 • 055 3997596 www.brandolinofirenze.it
“It looks like a Vespa!”
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28 Florence News
LIFESTYLE
OCTOBER www.florencenews.it
Colors, Curiosity, Creativity Meet stylist Behnood Javaherpour
SAMINA ABEDINI
B
ehnood Javaherpour was born into a family involved in design and textiles in Tehran, Iran. His father was the pioneer of designing and producing camping equipment in Iran at the time. Behnood’s mother was an antique dealer also involved in the thriving textile world. As a child Behnood grew up in a household of creativity and colour, probably why his passion for art and design developed very early on in his life. Drawing and painting became second nature to him and he loved his little sketch book
which he used to take everywhere with him. He spent his primary school years in Tehran and learned about the different materials and fabrics from his father’s trade. Behnood fell in love with the world of textiles and started making collage boards with various coloured materials to make garments for his sketches. Behnood always had a special eye for fashion and was very curious and observant of the outfits people wore around him. He started to develop his passion for fashion as he grew into a teenager and believed strongly that he could have a major influence in this industry. He believed that due to their socio-economic situation, Iranians were limited in their choices of clothing and that they became very distanced and estranged with the world of fashion. He wanted
to change that and the only way to do was to master the industry through his own knowledge and experience. Behnood moved to Italy at the age of 17 and while studying also started working with the local tailors to learn the trade during his vacations. This experience was a huge learning curve for Behnood as he was able to learn the tricks of the trade first hand and gain the confidence required to create garments. He started designing and tailoring outfits and this became his full time job after he finished high school. Behnood further education at the Politecnico di Milano where he studied International Business and then later he went on to Instituto Marangoni where his passion and enthusiasm for fashion continued to grow. He graduated in 2011 and established his own label Behnood in 2005 in Napoli. After years of successful business in Italy, Behnood extended his brand into the Middle Eastern and European market where his outfits are popular amongst the fashionable professionals. Behnood has also managed to inspire and attract the young Iranians with his unique yet simple designs and is proud to have been able to influence the
Cartoleria Lory Srl P.za Frescobaldi 8r 50125 055-213246 Shop.lory.net www.digital-fineart.it www.lorycad.net
Via de' Neri 18r
fashion industry in that region. He strongly believed that one day he would bring back colour, design and style to his people and the Middle East and today he has achieved that goal.
Benhood Javahenpour www.behnoode.com
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30 Florence News
LIFESTYLE
OCTOBER www.florencenews.it
Carving Dreams Out of Stone SAMINA ABEDINI
T
hese few words describe Alireza Tehrani’s career, whose leitmotiv has always been one: having his dreams come true. After becoming a millionaire at the age of 28 in the Iranian natural stone industry, Tehrani had another even bigger dream: developing a worldwide brand name thereby bringing change to the industry, while at the same time creating artwork for high-end projects where quality is appreciated and recognized. “It was a dream of mine since childhood” he says. He even dreams of seeing statues like Michelangelo’s David made with his precious stones. The first step was to expand the business internationally. At the
age of 31 he packed his bags and moved to North America where Primestone was born in 2007 in Toronto, Canada. “I chose Canada because it was known as the the Switzerland of North America where the government supports its businessmen and citizens with security and finance. My investment would therefore be safe”. But on top of that, its neighboring country was the largest consumer of natural stone products: The United States of America. The two countries are known to have the highest trade figures among each other. The business plan seemed more real. “I was closer to my dreams, with passion, hard work and a unique idea: creating a demand and a niche for the most expensive and precious stone, onyx, for the high-
Alireza Tehrani
end market” Tehrani said. He was able to offer better deals than those offered by competitors because the Canadian banking system provided cheap funds when discounting insured accounts receivable. “I was also quite experienced in sourcing the raw material and blocks of Onyx worldwide. But on top of that, in order to create my top quality brand, I had to process, pack and ship my material to the one and only country hosting masters in design and technology, always bringing creative changes to the industry: Italy,” he said. Tehrani’s business plan was simple yet effective: securing and controlling the source, producing a “made in Italy” top quality work of art and, finally, controlling demand. “I managed to put in place the Rolex of the natural stone in-
dustry, and in less than four years I was nicknamed as the King of Onyx,” Tehrani said. Now his track record includes Onyx procurement contracts with the most expensive high rises, 5 star Luxury Hotels and private mansions for some of the most important public
figures and celebrities. He said, “Italy taught me to be an artist: love your product and be different was the motto. In all honesty just the word Italy made my brand name shine through”. Today Primestone is a brand well known for its goal: a quality which lasts forever.
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OCTOBER www.florencenews.it
Florence News 31
LITERATURE
Italy, Literature, and The Great War
LEE FOUST
O
ne hundred years ago this month Italy was winding up its second summer of inconsequential warfare against the Austrian Empire in the Friuli Venezia-Giulia region following the Seventh, Eighth, and Ninth battles of the Isonzo River. Despite a long-standing defense pact with Germany and Austria, Italy had broken neutrality and entered the Great War in 1915 with the secretly arranged Treaty of London. Encouraged by Russian victories in the Carpathans against Austria and, fearing to lose out on the spoils should the
Austrian Empire be dismantled, Italy had for two years since been mired in a trench war. Morale had been awful at first and no serious headway had been made in 1914, but the sixth battle of the Isonzo, during the second season of fighting, had taken the town of Gorizia—a largely nominal objective. 1917 would be a more decisive year. The spring offensive brought Italy to the verge of triumph—but, outreaching their supply lines, the advancing army would be forced to halt in the mountains, and the trench stalemate resumed. Although the now combined German and Austrian forces would make a similar mistake and fail to
secure a decisive victory, in October of 1917 they would drive the Italian army down from the mountains and across the plains to the far side of the Tagliamento River in the famous retreat from Caparetto. The next year, in October again, the regrouped and reinforced French and Italian army would win a great victory at Vittorio Veneto on the Piave River, and, exhausted by fighting on too many fronts, Austria requested an armistice and the Great War in Italy ended. Perhaps more than Italian literature, American readers know some of these facts from Ernest Hemingway’s partially lived and copiously researched second novel, A Farewell to Arms, which charts an American architecture student in Italy’s adventures as a volunteer Red Cross ambulance driver during the 4-year conflict. I will go out on a limb here and proclaim this to be the American modernist’s greatest literary achievement, a novel rich in reflection, experience, and the best example of his terse, evocative prose style. If you love a great novel, are studying in Italy and interested in history (curious what your peers were doing 100 years ago), or are curious about either the war or the mysterious northeastern regions of Italy, I highly recommend this readable twentieth-century classic. It is with a heavy heart, however, that this scholar of Italian literature notes that there is no great
Soldato Ungaretti
Soldato Hemingway
Italian WWI novel equivalent to the American A Farewell to Arms, the German All Quiet on the Western Front, French Journey to the End of the Night, English Parade’s End trilogy, or even to the Czech The Good Soldier Svejk. The literary legacy of the Italian experience of WWI comes rather from the poets, notably the trench poems of Giuseppe Ungaretti, which appeared in his first three collections, Il porto sepolto (The Buried Port, 1916), La Guerra (The War, 1919) and Allegria di naufragi (Joy of the Shipwrecked, 1919). To get a feel for the poet’s Hermetic, spiritual experience of the daily facing of death, I’ve translated a short poem from Il porto sepolto recounting a night spent in a foxhole with the cadaver of a fallen, fellow soldier. Be sure to sound out the Italian original even if you don’t know what the words mean—within their music, the plosive t’s, d’s, and hard c’s may remind you of distant machinegun
fire. The poem is remarkably beautiful affirmation of life in the midst of manufactured death. Vigil (December 23rd, 1915, Cima Quattro) A whole night long Tossed down alongside A slaughtered Comrade His teeth clenched In his mouth Turned toward the fullmoon The clotting Of his hands Penetrate Into my silence Where I ‘ve written Letters full of love I’ve never been So so Attached to life
MONDO PERÙ
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Via dei Benci, 37r 055 234 48 85
Il Supermercato... da Gustare e deGustare
Sapori & Dintorni is the new way to do the shopping: in the heart of Florence there is a place where Food, Culture and Territory meet. Get in and discover the Big Supermarket to test and taste! Inside you will find many typical products of the Italian food tradition. Buy your favorite product and taste it within the tasting area.
FIND YOUR LOCAL BIG SUPERMARKET IN THE CITY CENTER
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Sapori & Dintorni Via de’ Bardi, 45/47
THE BIG SUPERMARKETS ARE OPEN: • Monday - Saturday: from 08.30 am to 9.00 pm • Sunday: from 09.30 am to 9.00 pm
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OCTOBER www.florencenews.it
Understanding Chianti Wine Chianti Classico
Chianti
Bottles simply labeled as Chianti are made from a mix grapes from several regions in the Chianti region. The main difference with generic Chianti and the rest, is that the minimum percentage of Sangiovese allowed is 75%, with the rules permitting white grapes to be blended in. Adding white grapes to a red wine isn’t as crazy as you might think! The French have been addingViognier to their Syrah in
the Rhone region of France for decades. The reason they do so is to soften the tannin in the Syrah, and to add what they call “aromatic complexity”. The addition of white grapes into the Sangiovese mix however, is less about romance and more about cutting costs. As with all Chianti’s, there are some minimum rules set, i.e. the minimum alcohol level in regular Chianti is 11.5%, and grape harvest yields are “restricted” to 4 tons per acre.
The Chianti Classico region is central to the region and arguably the most famous. In 1996 it was awarded DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita) status, in an effort to raise its perceived quality. All Italian DOCG wines are actually tasted and analyzed in a lab in order to meet government approval. Kind of like SAT exams for wine. If the wine passes, it will receive an individually numbered governmental seal across the cap or cork. Chianti Classico bears a black rooster on the neck of the bottle. This is a conglomeration of Chianti producers whom have setup the Consorzio Chianti Classico, in a bid to improve the quality and reputation of the region. The minimum percentage of Sangiovese allowed in Chianti Classico is 80%, with only red grapes permitted to make up the rest of the blend. Producers can of course choose to make their wine up to 100% Sangiovese, but it’s the exception and not the rule. The alcohol content must also be at least 12%, and the wine must spend at least 12 months aging in oak barrels. The Chianti Classico region covers an area of around 100 square miles, and the grape harvest is restricted to no more than 3 tons per acre.
Florence News 33
CHIANTI Chianti Riserva / Classico Riserva
If you guessed that Riserva is Italian for Reserve you would be correct! Riserva on a bottle of Chianti is your first clue that the bottle of Chianti you’re holding, stands head and shoulders above the rest. Riserva is a term that can be applied not just to Chianti, but to plenty of other Italian wines such as Brunello and Barolo. Of course, just to make things difficult, it has various meanings, but Riserva on a Chianti just means that the wine spends a minimum of two years (in oak) and three months (in the bottle) aging. The alcohol content must also be at least 12.5%. Chianti Riserva is also a great candidate for additional bottle aging, depending on the producer and vintage.
Vin Santo
Vin Santo (literally meaning “holy wine”) is a style of Italian wine dessert typical of Tuscany. Vin Santo wines are often made from white grape varieties such as Trebbiano and Malvasia, though Sangiovese may be used to produce a rosè style known as “Occhio di Pernice” or eye of the partridge. Vin Santo is described as a straw wine since is often produced by drying the freshly harvested grapes on straw mats in a warm and well ventilated area of the house. However several producers dry the grapes by hanging on racks indoors. Though technically a dessert wine, the wines can vary in sweetness levels from bone dry (like a Fino Sherry) to extremely sweet.
SUPER CARRIAGE TOUR AND WINE TASTING
Here the perfect chance to live a special moment in Chianti a romantic CARRAGE tour will take you in two of the most charming wineries of Greve in Chianti
For more information go to www.helloflorence.net
HOTEL • RESTAURANT GIOVANNI DA VERRAZZANO
WINE & TYPICAL TUSCAN PRODUCTS
Piazza Giacomo Matteotti n° 28 Greve in Chianti (Florence) 055 853189 / 055 8546098 www.albergoverrazzano.it
Piazza Matteotti 18 50022 Greve in Chianti (FI) 055853631 chianticlassicoshop@gmail.com
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34 Florence News
CHIANTI
Gagliardi Presents “Real Beauty”
Contemporary art gallery celebrates 25th anniversary with an exhibit on Riccardo Mannelli
T
he story began 25 years ago when Stefano Gagliardi decided to open a contemporary art gallery in San Gimignano following a new, quite personal criteria: that of selecting artists and artworks on the base of beauty, truth, quality and real value. A criteria quite difficult to sustain in a market, such as that of art, often characterized by speculative attitudes, ephemeral productions, transitory trends and operators that often lack professionalism. But it worked, and worked well, as the fact that many
artists launched by the gallery have successfully been showcased in important galleries and museums in Italy and abroad, and that the gallery itself has been invited throughout the years to organize over 60 events in collaboration with other galleries and public and private museums, demonstrate. To celebrate this important anniversary, the gallery is hosting an exhibition on one of the most important Italian living painter and cartoonist, Riccardo Mannelli. An artist that perfectly embodies the
values that have inspired the activity of the gallery in its first quarter of a century. Curated by Alessandra Frosini, the exhibit, which is entitled “Real Beauty,” is running from Sept. 10 until Oct. 2 and presents a dozen of inedited artworks made on a canvassed paper-cardboard, and dozens of drawings and watercolors. As curator Alessandra Frosini states, “beauty is a a fragile good par excellence, which transforms us leaving a trace, giving us life, nourished by our limits as well as by our potentials; something we cannot do without after we have encountered it: not because it coincides with perfection, but because it is a state of our soul.” Born in 1955 in the Tuscan town of Pistoia, Mannelli has been living in Rome since 1977. He collaborates with some of the most important national and international newspapers including la Repubblica and Il Fatto Quotidiano and teaches at the European Institute of Design in Rome. In 2011 he has been invited to the Venice Biennale. His most recent important exhibits have been “Rops + Mannelli” at the Ducal Palace in Urbino, and “Notes for the Reconstruction of Beauty” at the Buidyng Bridge Art Gallery in Los Angeles.
OCTOBER www.florencenews.it
A Journey Through Human Cruelty
Asparagus and Truffle Risotto
The Torture and Death Penalty Museum displays more than 100 tools designed to torture and kill. Some of these tools are extremely rare, dating to the sixteenth, seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. They include the notorious ‘iron maiden,’ the guillotine, rack, torture chair and the chastity belt. Also on display are lesser-known sophisticated devices, such as the ‘heretic’s fork,’ the ‘noisemaker’s fife,’ the ‘Spanish spider’, and flaying instruments. Via San Giovanni, 82 & 125 San Gimignano Open daily: 10 a.m.-8 p.m. 0577-940526, 055-940151 Tickets: Full €10 Concessions: €7; Groups: €5 www.museodellatortura.it
Il Castello di Bibbione
In the heart of Tuscany, Chianti region, between Florence and Siena
Erected by the Cadolingi of Montecascioli, the Castle of Bibbione, in Chianti region, is documented in the very ancient manuscripts from the year 997 by the name of Castrum Bibionis. Surrounded by city walls, which in the past served as a final defence for its inhabitants, the Castle dominates a medieval village and ancient houses dot the slope of the hill. Its lands extend to below the Via Cassia and the Pesa River, between Florence and Siena. Castello di Bibbione Via Collina 66 - 50026 Loc. Montefridolfi San Casciano in Val di Pesa (Florence) 055 8249231 335 8106514 www.castellodibibbione.com
A Typical Dish From San Gimignano
1/2 kilo fresh asparagus, cut into 1 inch pieces 2 scallions, chopped 2 T olive oil 3 cups arborio rice 1/2 cup Vernaccia di San Gimignano 4 cups vegetable broth 3 T butter 1/2 cup grated cheese (Parmesan or Aged Pecorino) 1. Place olive oil in pan with scallions and asparagus. Sauté for 2 minutes. 2. Add rice, wine, and half of the water. Lower heat and let simmer. 3. As water evaporates, keep adding more, stirring frequently to achieve a creamy texture. 4. Rice should be cooked until tender yet al dente. Add butter and cheese, stirring to distribute evenly. 5. Sprinkle generously with grated truffle.
Ristorante Il Pino Via Cellolese 6 San Gimignano 057 79 40 415 www.ristoranteilpino.it
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36 Florence News
TUSCANY
OCTOBER www.florencenews.it
Discover Colle Val d’Elsa
‘The Italian Way of St. James’
PLACES OF INTEREST IN COLLE VAL D’ ELSA • Sant’Agostino
Via Francigena, among ancient routes and modern “pilgrims” 25,000 people, half of whom are Italian, walked at least a part of the Via Francigena last year. Compared to the number of people who walked that stretch in previous years, this is encouraging — an improvement due to the increasing number of bed & breakfasts along the route and to the efforts to promote the route made by the region of Tuscany who has been trying to transform it in a sort of Italian version of the Spanish Way of St. James — but that could, and should, be improved in the future. It was this the conclusion of Italian newspaper Il Fatto Quotidiano that recently published a reportage on the route. According to Il Fatto, the potential of the route are huge and, if well exploited, could make it the Italian version of the St. James Way. First documented as the Lombard Way and then the Frankish Route in 725, according to the travel records of Willibald, Bishop of Eichstätt in Bavaria, the route was named Via Francigena in 876, given its crossing with French territories (Francia, in Italian) at the Abbey of San Salvatore al Monte Amiata in Tuscany and was used
throughout the Middle Ages by pilgrims headed to Rome from the North, particularly from France. Nearly 400 kilometers of the Via pass through Tuscany, accounting in part for the development of a number of the region’s historic settlements and trade and religious centers. Today, tourists and history buffs can enjoy the cultural mecca that is Via Francigena by following one or all of the 15 Tuscan legs, beginning with the journey from Passo della Cisa to Pontremoli and ending with the route from Radicofani to Acquapendente. The Via passes through San Gimignano and its Fortress of Montestaffoli. Originally a castle for the Lombard Astolfo and later a Dominican Convent, the fortress took on a defensive role in the 14th century while under the threat of attack from Siena.
To book a trip to the Via Francigena: www.spreadyourwings.it
• Duomo di Colle di Val d’Elsa • Chiesa di Santa Maria in Canonica
• Chiesa di San Pietro
• Chiesa di Sant’Agostino
• Chiesa di Santa Caterina
• Convento di San Francesco • Cripta della Misericordia • Bastione di Sapia
• Casa-torre di Arnolfo di
I
ts name means “Hill of Elsa Valley”, where “Elsa” is the name of the river which crosses it. Today, Colle di Val d’Elsa is internationally renowned for the production of crystal glassware and art (15% of world production), largely produced in the industrial lower town. The area was settled by man from at least the 4th millennium BC, but first mentions of the city are from the 9th century AD. In 1269 it was the seat of a famous battle during the wars of Guelphs and Ghibellines and in 1479 it was besieged by Neapolitan troops. From the 14th century it was a possession of Florence and the Grand Duchy of Tuscany until the unification of Italy in 1860. In the 20th century it became
an important industrial center. During World War II it was bombed by Allied aircraft. The oldest part of the town is the “colle alta”, the higher part, with a well preserved medieval center. The town developed along the river from the 11th century onwards, building an artificial canal to power various industrial activities, such as wheat mills and paper factories. The city is also famous as the birthplace of sculptor and architect Arnolfo di Cambio.
To book a trip to Colle Val d’Elsa: www.spreadyourwings.it
Cambio
• Palazzo Pretorio
• Palazzo Campana
• Palazzo del Comune o dei Priori
• Palazzo Vescovile
• Palazzo Buoninsegni • Porta Nova
• Teatro dei Varii
• Teatro del Popolo
• Banca del Monte dei Paschi di Siena
• Via del Castello • Il Baluardo
• Piazza Arnolfo di Cambio
THE RESTAURANT OF THE FLORENTINES
Wide selection of vegeterian dishes
Located on Via Ghibellina near Santa Croce, Da Que’ Ganzi offers a fresh seafood and meat menu for both lunch and dinner. Tuscan specialties include ribollita and authentic Florentine steak, and all of the cakes and sweets are homemade. A special weekday lunch menu for less than €10 makes the restaurant affordable for anyone. Special dishes: BAKED SEA BASS & TUSCAN STEAK Mon. to Sun.: 12–2:30 p.m. & 7–11:30 p.m. Closed on Tuesdays. Via Ghibellina, 70/r •055 22 60 010 www.daqueiganzi.it • info@daqueiganzi.it
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38 Florence News
september
TRAVEL
www.florencenews.it
T
he historic center of Prague, built between the 11th and 18th century, is one of Europe’s cultural and aesthetic gems. As one of the cities that has effectively preserved much of its original structure, the intriguing architecture of the early Middle Ages, High Gothic period and High Baroque period can be seen nestled on the banks of the Vitava River. Many of the glorious monuments, palaces and churches such as the Hradcani Castle, St. Vitus Cathedral and Charles Bridge were built mostly under the Holy Roman Emperor, Charles IV in the 14th century and remain main attractions. With the prestige of being one of the locations on the UNESCO World Heritage List, Prague’s architectural splendor 1) How to get to Greve: Although Verrazzano castles. can be credited with influencing getting to Greve in Chianti via car the development of most Europewould be the easiest and the most 4) Museums: Greve offers two muan architecture, particularly that seums, the Museum of San Franscenic, there are other modes of of Central Europe. Expressing varcesco, which was inaugurated in transportation available. An easy ious time periods through monu2002 in the former convent of San way to get to the town would be ments created over its existence of from the Santa Maria Novella sta- Francesco and presents several over thousand it is a important mark paintings and other tion. Hop on abus line 365years, and you of Greve a truly diverse in cultural heri- of art; the Wine Museum, pieces will get to in Chianti just Cas-outside the square, set in a about antage. hour.Sites such as the Praguejust tle, the Cathedral of St. Vitusspace and as big as 800 square meters Hradćany Square the previously were the Mirafio2) What to do: Beyond beingin thefront en- ofwhere Castle become internationri cellars and where now it is postrance gate into have the Chianti region, known, asofwell as the Valdgtesible to learn and ‘see’ the history Greve in ally Chianti is full historical jn Palace onmorning, the left bank of the wine. sites. Every Saturday the of river, the weekly market takesGothic place inCharles Greve Bridge, the Romanesque What to eat: Beyond sipping on in Chianti’s main square, Rotunda Piazza of5)the Holy and the Gothic arcadthe wine from Greve in Chianti, Matteotti. TheRood Saturday morning ed houses the Old by Town must-eats in Greve are grilled meat market offers localof products ar- Square. Not only and doesrestaurants. Prague offer much and pig products such as prosciuttisans, workshops of Europe’s visual brilliance, to, but salami, it finocchiona, crostini, additionally of the and maintruffles. 3) What was to see: the Piazza one Matteotcenters Santa of Christianity. Founded in ti; the Chiesa Croce, conand onecentury of the earliest to be For more information on Greve visstructed1348, in the 11th and established in Europe, the Prague it the website: http://www.comune. was rebuilt in 1325 with a neoclasgreve-in-chianti.fi.it/ sic façade; the Montefioralle and
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5 Tips for Visiting Greve, the Heart of Chianti
SUPER CARRIAGE TOUR AND WINE TASTING
OCTOBER
Florence News 31 www.florencenews.it
CHIANTI
University was a major factor in the European Reformation. Many ideas of the Hussite Movement were formed at the university which gave way to the beginning of the reformation. Prague has also been a vital center for the intellectual and cultural advancement of central Europe, being associated with renowned individuals such as Wolfgang PRESS REVIEWS AND AWARDS Amadeus Mozart, Franz Kafka, Albert Einstein and co-founder of the THE WINERY: League of Nations, Edvard Beneš. Top 100 producer of the world 2009, Wine &In Spirits addition to its rich history, the side of Prague compleTop 100 producer of the world 2007, Wine &modern Spirits ments the city, offering a diverse Newcomer winery of the year 2004, Gambero Rosso selection of traditional cuisine, entertainment, art and nightlife. Many of the best Czech restauTHE WINE: rants are located amongst the historic attractions. The John Lennon CHIANTI CLASSICO CHIANTI CLASSICO IL MARGONE GRATIUS RISERVA Wall offers a perspective on a more 2011 2008 2008 recent93period ofSpectator the Czech Repub2 Red glasses, 2007, 5 Grappoli, AIS Bibenda points, Wine Gambero Rosso Silver Medal Outstanding lic, while Prague’s largest nightIWSC 2007 2007 2010 94 points, Wine Spectator 93 points, Wine Spectator club, Karlovy Lazne, offers five 95 points, Decanter 2006, floors and 2006 ten bars, proving the 93 points, Wine Spectator 2006 2008 Gold Medal IWSC Bronze Medal IWSC city’s truly unique ability to mix 90 points, Wine Spectator 2006, Bronze Medal Decanter 2005 2006 old with new. 2008 WWA Silver Medal IWSC 92 points, Falstaff 91 points, Falstaff
Prague: A Fairytale Still Going on Here the perfect chance to live a special moment in Chianti a romantic CARRAGE tour will take you in two of the most charming wineries of Greve in Chianti
Silver Medal IWSC 2007 Silver Medal Best in Class IWSC
2007 88 points, Robert Parker 2006/2007/2008/2009 4 Grappoli, AIS
2005 91 points, Wine Enthusiast 2005 93 points, Wine & Spirits 2004, 2 Red Glasses, Gambero Rosso
2005 90 points, Wine & Spirits
2004 90 points, Robert Parker
2004 5 stars, Decanter
2001 3 Red glasses, Gambero Rosso 2001 93 points, Wine & Spirits
For more information go to www.helloflorence.net
2005 3 Red Glasses, Gambero Rosso 2004 90 points Wine & Spirits 2004, 3 Red Glasses, Gambero Rosso Il Margone 2003 90 points, Parker Il Margone 2003 5 stars, Decanter Il Margone 2001 5 Grappoli, AIS
www.ilmolinodigrace.com
2005 90 points, Veronelli 2004 Gold Medal Decanter WWA 2004
3 Red Glasses, Included in the Gambero Rosso Itinerary: 2004 90 points, Parker
2000 -3Old Town Square Red Glasses, Rosso -Gambero The Prague Castle - The John Lennon Wall - Views from Petrin Hill - Jewish Quarters - 5 Story Night Club
HOTEL • RESTAURANT GIOVANNI DA VERRAZZANO
Tuscany - Rome - Venice - Naples and Pompei Sicily - The Italian Lakes and many others
Piazza Giacomo Matteotti n° 28 Greve in Chianti (Florence) 055 853189 / 055 8546098 www.albergoverrazzano.it
Via Nazionale 149R 055 0503517 www.italyonabudgettours.com
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OCTOBER www.florencenews.it
Taste Wine with Pino In a 700-year-old well
‘P
ozzo Divino’ is a witty play on words: literally meaning ‘divine well’, it also translates as ‘wine well’ when read as ‘Pozzo di Vino’. The ancient well is now the cellar that hosts Pozzo Divino’s wine tours. Dating back to 1312, the well was built to supply water through a vast system of underground tunnels and pipes to the prisoners of a local prison known as ‘The Stinche’ (now Teatro Verdi) that stretched as far as the Bargello. Pino bought the location in 2006 and restored it himself with the help of some friends. Despite its
restoration, Pino reveals that it was always his principal intention to maintain a tangible sense of history when stepping into the cellar. This is something he has undoubtedly achieved; the place is almost like a time-machine propelling you back a few centuries into a part of authentic medieval Florence – albeit in excellent condition. Pino imparts his knowledge while taking guests around the cellar, offering a range of Italian wines to sample with an appetizer of complementary regional cheeses, cuts of meats, bread, olive oil and balsamic vinegar.
SNACK BAR ANNA THE BAGEL POINT Enjoy the relaxing atmosphere and the jumbo cappuccinos while having a chat with Anna and Stefano, who will welcome you in a warm and friendly way. Grab one of the many homemade bagels, the bar’s perfected specialty since 1990. These bagels and sandwiches have made this snack spot one of the most popular among local Americans. While taking a break in the back seating area you will be pleased to experience the no-charge table service, which places Snack Bar Anna far from the ‘tourist traps’ in the city. Opening hours: Mon. to Sat.: 8:30 a.m.–7:30 p.m. Via de’ Ginori, 26/r 055 23 81 143 miranna.lomartire@gmail.com
Guests are offered a spectrum of Tuscan flavors to try, from a variety of the region’s renowned Chianti Classico to white wines that include Chardonnay, Sauvignon and Pinot Grigio. The wine-tasting ends with the most exclusive reds of the cellar: Bolgheri, Super Tuscan, Morellino and Montepulciano. Upon request, guests also enjoy a buffet lunch comprising fresh pasta, specialty Italian second courses, and “the best panini in the world” made by Pino himself. Pino boasts that 90 percent of the wines he holds are of Tuscan origin, and that his tours prove so popular that he often ships back boxes of the wine sampled to America in order to appease impressed customers. Those looking to take a taste of Tuscany back home can find comprehensive information on shipping zones and freight costs on the company’s website. Pozzo Divino’s wine tours can be organized for tourist groups, families and universities, and cost only €15 a head – which not only makes it an experience to enjoy over the festive season but also an ideal Christmas gift for lovers of Tuscany’s finest vintages.
Pozzo Divino Only 15 Euro! Via Ghibellina, 144/r 055 24 66 907 Open from Monday to Saturday Wine-tasting on Sundays by appointment (minimum 10 people) www.pozzodivino.it
WINE ON TAP IN SANTO SPIRITO Bring your bottle to be filled starting from less than €1.50 straight from the barrels of Il Santo Vino. Here patrons can choose from a wide range of Italian wines alongside selected local specialty and organic products.
Opening hours: Tuesday to Sunday: 10 a.m.–2 p.m.; 5–9 p.m. Borgo Tegolaio, 46/r Tel. 055 53 87 122 , 345 90 93 425 www.ilsantovino.it Facebook: Il Santo Vino
Florence News 39
FOOD&WINE
Dine with Dante
N
amed after Dante Alighieri’s The Divine Comedy, a homely, rustic taverna fittingly lies on Via dei Cimatori, only a few meters away from Dante’s house. The restaurant offers traditional dishes based on medieval recipes. Some are adapted and revisited for the modern age in a way that one maintains the omnipresent feeling of Florentine history and tradition – so much so that Dante himself could walk in and dine next to you. Others are as they were centuries ago. Traditional medieval-style dishes include homemade ribbon pasta with wild boar and mushroom sauce, roast shin of pork with new potatoes and seasonal vegetables, risotto inspired by medieval Tus-
can flavors, and tasting plates of assorted cheeses accompanied with fresh fruit and jams, including the taverna’s specialty hot red pepper jam. Also serving as a wine bar and pizzeria, the restaurant offers an eclectic selection of wines from its cellar, an outdoor summer terrace, and is fittingly decorated in a medieval style with armour and banners.
Taverna Divina Commedia Via dei Cimatori, 7r 055 21 53 69