September 2018

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Florence News

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Florentine September

B

esides being the month of wine harvest, September has a particular meaning to the history of Florence.

One first reason is that in September 1337 the Orsanmichele Church was inaugurated. Built by Francesco Talenti, Neri di Fioravante, and Benci di Cione and located on Via dell’Arte della Lana right off Via Calzaiuoli, Orsanmichele was constructed on the site of the kitchen garden of San Michele, an oratory no longer existing that had occupied the site as early as the 9th century, from which the church derives its name. The oratory’s full name was, in fact, San Michele in Orto, which was eventually condensed to Orsanmichele.

Originally built as a grain market, the building was one of the most important places for sculpture in the early Renaissance years, as it

became an artistic battleground where the guilds would compete.

Each guild formed around a trade or profession and adopted its own patron saint, which is why guilds soon transformed into quasi-religious bodies.

The city of Florence gave the guilds the rights to install statues of their patron saints in the niches around the outside of the building near street-level, which were, of course, highly-visible places for public viewing. However, the guilds that were responsible for commissioning and paying for the works that would be placed in the niches were slow to hire sculptors, and the niches remained unfilled for a few years, upsetting the city’s government that was, understandably, seeing its effort not suitably remunerated. So, around 1407, the city passed a law stating that if the

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guilds did not install a statue in their respective niches within 10 years, they would lose the right to use their niche. It was a clever move. In the turn of a few months the guilds began to commission artists works for the niches, and they picked the best artists available: Donatello carved a marble statue of St. Mark and one of St. George; Nanni di Banco carved the Four Crowned Saints (otherwise known as the Quattro Santi Coronati); Lorenzo Ghiberti cast bronze works of St. Matthew and St. John the Baptist. If you walk by, however, be aware: The sculptures seen today are copies, the originals having been removed to museums.

Another important meaning of September to Florence is the first move of Michelangelo’s David, from Piazza del Duomo to Piazza della Signoria. It was September 1503, two years since Michelangelo’s first flick of a scalpel, when the Florentine Republic unveiled the statue, giving Florentines the opportunity to admire it for the first time. It was such an event, worth of the many difficulties encountered in the production of the sculpture.

And it was also the beginning of a new era. So enthusiastic was the reaction of the people and the city authorities, that in May 1504 a special committee of experts was formed and given the task of deciding where the statue was to be put.

Among its members were names such as Sandro Botticelli, Filippino Lippi, Leonardo da Vinci, Antonio and Giuliano da Sangallo, Simone del Pollaiolo, Andrea della Robbia, Davide Ghirlandaio, Piero di Cosi-

Four Crowned Saints

mo. Eventually, the decision was made to move the statue on the platform right before the entrance of the Palazzo Vecchio. But it was a decision that caused a problem as huge as the statue itself: how could David, who was 410-meter tall and weighed 5 tons, be moved without his beauty suffering any consequences? However, the decision was made, and the risk had to be taken. So, on a beautiful spring day – it was May 14, 1504 – David slowly began to move, assisted by 40 laborers who used a wood mobile scaffolding to help him reach the Palazzo Vecchio. It was a journey that was short and long in the same time, as it took four days to move 600 meters. It went well: David reached his destination on May 18, safe and untouched. His second move came in 1872, the new desti-

nation was the Academy Gallery.

Currently, there is talking about a possible third move, which may be a new museum just for him: perhaps, the final destination of the journey.

Coming to more recent times, September is also important for the sporting history of the city, as it was on Sept. 13, 1931, that the Florence stadium was inaugurated. That day Fiorentina played a friendly game against an Austrian team, Admira Vienna: 1-0 to Fiorentina.

The first name of the stadium was Giovanni Berta, after a Florentine Fascist. In those days Fascism was at its peak, the new totalitarian State was being built and sport was supposed to be an important part of it: that’s why the stadium, which was to be completed one year later, was shaped like a “D” as a tribute to the Duce of Italy, Mussolini. Besides Fiorentina and Soccer World Cup games, as well as concerts that have contributed to write the history of the city – the most famous ones being those of David Bowie and Madonna in 1987, and that of Bruce Springsteen in 2003 – the stadium has witnessed perhaps something more important.

On Oct. 27, 1954, during a pretty much insignificant reserve game, a group of UFOs traveling at high speed abruptly stopped over the stadium. There was silence, just silence, as the crowd of around 10,000 spectators witnessed the event and described the UFOs as cigar shaped. Now you know why, since then, Florence is one the most important centers for Ufology in the world.

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T

he ‘revolution’ of the Uffizi Gallery continued at the beginning of this summer as three of Leonardo da Vinci’s greatest masterpieces, previously housed in separate rooms, are now on display together in a room dedicated exclusively to Leonardo.

The three paintings – the recently restored Adoration of the Magi, The Annunciation, and The Baptism of Christ (which Leonardo painted together with Verrocchio) – are now housed in one same room to bring out “the fullness of the forms that are so typical of Leonardo’s style,” said the great promoter of this revolution, Uffizi director Eike Schmidt, at the inauguration of the new arrangement.

The room dedicated to Leonardo completes a triptych highlighting the museum most important works, together with two other arrangements, one with Michel-

angelo’s Doni Tondo and the masterworks of Raphael, and the eightroom section dedicated to the works of Caravaggio.

Schmidt also said the next development will be this coming fall with the opening of new rooms dedicated to 16th-century Venetian artists including Giorgione, Tintoretto, Tiziano, Bernardo Licinio, and others.

In October, Leonardo will once again be featured in celebrations for the 500th anniversary of his death, for which the Uffizi will open an exhibition showing the Codex Leicester, a collection of scientific writings by Da Vinci, on loan from Bill Gates.The Codex, also known as Codex Hammer and named after Thomas Coke, is Leonardo’s most famous scientific journal and is the second highest sale price of any book. It was shown in Italy the last time in 1995,

at an exhibition at Palazzo Querini Dubois in Venice. The last time it appeared in Florence was in 1982, when it was showcased in an exhibit tributing da Vinci. A mixture of da Vinci’s observations and theories on astronomy, the properties of water, rocks, fossils, air and celestial light, the Leicester Codex consists of handwritten pages bound in red leather for a total of 18 sheets of paper, each folded in half and written on both sides, forming the complete 72-page document.

Handwritten in Italian by da Vinci

NEWS in his characteristic mirror writing, it contains 360 diagrams and drawings relating to hydraulics, geology, paleontology, mechanics and astronomy, and designs of a submarine and a diving mask whose invention was in this way predicted by the genius. Microsoft founder Bill Gates purchased the Codex in 1994 at Christie’s auction house for USD $30,802,500, the equivalent to $49,772,200 in today’s money. To get it, Gates paid American oil tycoon Armand Hammer the 30.8 billion dollars.

Tower Clock to Be Restored T

he tower clock of the Palazzo Vecchio, one of the largest and oldest clocks in the world, will be restored this year. The announcement came at the beginning of last spring, when a spokesperson of the Florence Town Council said that the clock can be restored as part of the “Flic, Florence I Care” project, allowing private citizens and companies to fund restoration of public works. The council spokesperson also said that the restoration will cost about € 125,000 and that, once restored, tourists and Florentines alike will have the opportunity to admire the unique piece, as the room with the clock will be open to the public. Originally built by Nicolò Bernardo, the clock of Pala-

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© dummiesproject

A Room for Leonardo

Florence News

Spettacoli dal Vivo ogni Martedì da Giugno a Settembre 19-21

Live Shows on Tuesday from June to September 7pm - 9pm

Sept. 9 - Monsieur David I Quit Using my Brain Performance of physical theatre and metaphysical illusion both for adults and kids.

Sept. 11 - Dimitri Grechi Espinosa Oreb Solo sax with reverb effect for prayers/meditations on the divinity of Enthroned Virgins in the Medieval altarpieces.

zzo Vecchio was restored a first time in 1500, before Grand Duke Ferdinando II decided to have a new one built in the mid-1600s.

The new clock was ready by 1667, and since then has been restored quite a few times, the last of which was in the 1990s.

Sept. 18 - Secret Theater Ensemble Human Dramas Musical compositions for female voice and live electronics written for three paintings by Caravaggio.

Sept. 25 - SilviOmbre & Giovannangelo De Gennaro Arianna’s Power Performance of shadow puppetry and music for the Sleeping Ariadne.

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Florence News

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The Elegance of Speed Exhibit tributes cars and beauty

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itti Palace inaugurated the exhibition The Elegance of Speed last month. The exhibit showcases 90 rare photographs taken between 1934 and 1965 depicting the charm and speed of the automobile in Florence and Tuscany.

The idea of such an exhibit in Florence came quite natural as Florence has somehow bounded its name to both elegance and the history of cars. The internal combustion engine was patented in our city in 1853; in 1894, the second automobile in Italy took to the streets; and, in 1948, the first Concorso d’Eleganza for automobiles – a beauty competition for works – was held.

Divided into three sections, The

Elegance of Speed goes beyond the appreciation of cars in technical, aerodynamic and structural terms.

This exhibition also evokes the courage, the feminine charm, the deafening rumble, the pungent smell of gas, as well as the screech of tires as they rounded the curves: in short, all that made the success of Italian and Florentine fashion between 1934 and 1965.

The first section is dedicated to the races that sped across the soft curves of the Tuscan landscape.

These races mark the history of Italian car racing and ignited a passion for speed and the mastery of race car drivers: a stretch of the Firenze-Mare highway became the stage for world records, with

legendary speed tests; in June 1935, famous pilot Tazio Nuvolari, driving a dual-engine Alfa Romeo prepared

by Enzo Ferrari, reached the incredible speed of 323.175 km/h beating the record that Hans Stuck broke just a few months before on board a powerful Type B (later renamed the Type Lucca).

Drivers are at the centre of the second section. Alongside the legendary Tazio Nuvolari are Giannino Marzotto - the latter famous for his elegance and for driving wearing a dress shirt, jacket and tie - and the Thai Prince Bira (who in addition to the Formula 1 race competitions participated in four Olympics as a yachtsman), the aristocrat Felice Trossi, who raced cars and yachts without ever losing his brilliant and detached selfconfidence, and the fearless and superstitious Alberto Ascari, who died the day he left the helmet he always wore at home.

The third section is dedicated to the style of cars and focuses on the famous Concorsi d’Eleganza, which initially served as displays of elegance and later became a place to present new cars and products.

The exhibit runs until Sept. 16.

The Elegance of Speed Palazzo Pitti, Andito degli Angiolini, Piazza de’ Pitti 1 Until Sept. 16 Tuesday to Sunday, 8.45 a.m. - 6.50 p.m.

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Islamic Art and Florence CASANDRA ERIKSEN

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slamic Art and Florence from the Medici to the 20th century offers visitors the opportunity to understand the relationships between Florence and the Islamic world from the Renaissance to the ‘1900s. Until Sept. 29, a combined ticket valid for three days allows you to visit the Uffizi, the Bargello, the exhibit, and the Museo

Archeologico di Firenze. This ticket costs €29.

On display are pieces of Islamic art such as carpets, aquamaniles and vases, glasses, rock crystals, ivory, lustreware as well as other items.

The Bargello section of the exhibit explores a crucial moment in the history of research, collecting and museography of Islamic art - the turn of the 19th century showcasing items from the Carrand collection and others acquired by

English collector Frederick Stibbert and by Tuscan connoisseurs Stefano Bardini and Giulio Franchetti.

The Uffizi section explores the interaction between East and West in art and the appeal of Islamic art. Among the items on display at the Uffizi are the Arabic script used in the haloes of the figures of the Virgin and St. Joseph in Gentile da Fabriano’s Adoration of the Magi, those used by Cristofano dell’Altissimo’s series of portraits commissioned by Paolo Giovio; Islamic metalworks popular during the Renaissance; ceramics from the East or from Moorish Spain decorated with the coats-of-arms of Florentine aristocratic families; textiles and carpets from Mamluk Egypt woven at the turn of the 15th century (snapped up by the Medici Grand Dukes); and manuscripts including that by Persian King Firdūsī’s Shahnameh dated 1217.

“The exhibition not only highlights the interest in Islamic culture that was rooted in Medici collecting and that continued well into the modern era, but also testifies of the unprejudiced aesthetic fascination with the Orient that has always permeated European Art,” said Uffizi director Eike Schmidt.

Islamic Art and Florence Bargello Museum and Uffizi Gallery Until Sept. 23

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Marina Abramović: The Cleaner Exhibit begins Sept. 21 at Palazzo Strozzi

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alazzo Strozzi will host a major exhibition from Sept. 21 to Jan. 20 featuring Marina Abramović, one of the most famous and controversial figures in contemporary art.

The event is a retrospective bringing together more than 100 works and providing a comprehensive survey of Abramović creations from the 1970s to the 2000s. On display will be videos, photographs, paintings, objects, installations, and live recreations of her most famous performances by a group of artists specially chosen and trained for this show.

The exhibition – which is meant to continue the series of shows at Palazzo Strozzi by leading figures in contemporary art, following those dedicated to Ai Weiwei and Bill Viola – is the result of a direct collaboration between Palazzo Strozzi and the artist that will give Abramović her first opportunity to interact with Renaissance architecture. Abramović will feature in a special event organized by the Fondazione Palazzo Strozzi at the Teatro del Maggio Musicale Fiorentino on Saturday, Sept. 22, at 3.30 p.m. The event is already sold out and will be a conversation between

Abramović and Arturo Galansino, curator of the show and general manager of the Strozzi Palace Foundation, in which the artist will discuss aspects of her personal and creative life, surveying the stages in her career from her beginnings in Serbia to her latest major performances throughout the world.

Born Nov. 30, 1946, in Belgrade, Yugoslavia (now in Serbia), Abramović is known for works that dramatically tested the endurance and limitations of her own body and mind. She was raised in Yugoslavia by parents who fought as Partisans in World War II and were later em-

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ployed in the communist government of Josip Broz Tito. After studying painting at the Academy of Fine Arts in Belgrade, she became interested in the possibilities of performance art, in particular the ability to use her body as a site of artistic and spiritual exploration.

In 1972 she conceived a series of visceral performance pieces that engaged her body as both subject and medium. In Rhythm 10 (1973) she methodically stabbed the spaces between her fingers with a knife, at times drawing blood. In Rhythm 0 (1974) she stood immobile in a room for six hours along with 72

objects, varying from a rose to a loaded gun, that the audience was invited to use on her however they wished. These pieces provoked controversy not only for their perilousness, but also for Abramović’s occasional nudity, which would become a regular element of her work thereafter.

In 1975 she moved to Amsterdam, and a year later she began collaborating with Frank Uwe Laysiepen (byname Ulay), a German artist with whom she shared a personal life and artistic career, until they parted ways in 1988. Much of their work together was concerned with gender identity.

In 1997, she won the Golden Lion for best artist at the Venice Biennale. Her exhibit, the brooding Balkan Baroque, used both video and live performance to interrogate her cultural and familial identity.

In 2002 she again captured public attention for The House with the Ocean View, a gallery installation in which she lived ascetically for 12 days in three exposed cubes mounted onto a wall. In 2010, the MoMA museum in New York City held a wide-ranging retrospective of her work, The Artist Is Present.

Abramović has also worked with such pop icons as Jay Z, Lady Gaga, and James Franco.

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Il Ponte Presents IT HAPPENS 01

Koenig on Display

New project begins with Vlad Nancă and Luca Resta

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he contemporary art gallery Il Ponte opens the 201819 season with the brand new project IT HAPPENS. Curated

by Paola Tognon, this exhibit investigates contemporary visual culture, offering opportunities for experimentation and comparison between young international artists and expanding the gallery’s relations – after 50 years of activity – through intergenerational dialogue.

Every year, in fact, IT HAPPENS will call artists who, following meetings, residencies and a shared period of work in Florence, will present a site-specific project at Il Ponte. The participants of the first IT HAPPENS are Vlad Nancă (Bucharest, Romania) and Luca Resta (Italian living and working in Paris).

With no limits on materials, no obligations to share practices, spaces or languages, no need to put together a joint show, the research of Vlad Nancă on public space and

its poetic and objectual resilience (between memory and utopia, by way of irksome present everyday life) meets the obsessive repetitions of Luca Resta to compose a 4-handed project filling both areas of the gallery, made of actions and ideas, images, videos, sculptures and readymades.

The objects and images passed down and repeated through the decades, recorded and re-proposed by the poetic and political eye of Romanian artist Vlad Nancă, encounter the repetitiveness of mechanical, human or technological actions which delocalize the shape and function of the objects proposed by the Italian Luca Resta. Together – in name and in deed – the two artists will transform the gallery into a rarefied space where sharp irony and fun dominate obsessions and layers of meaning.

The meetings, long email correspondence and swapped

references (from history to cooking, language to 1970s artistic and architectural research, the sets of ephemeral fashion shows to everyday objects) created a virtual and surreal platform onto which for many months the Nancă and Resta uploaded research, poetics and formal similarities, as well as experiences from their exhibitions and projects in Marseilles, Brussels, Paris and Bucharest. The upshot is the co-habitation of works and stories during the period of their residency in Florence.

It Happens 01 VLAD NANCĂ and LUCA RESTA Sept. 21 - Nov. 9 Opening Sept. 21, 6:30 p.m.

Il Ponte Art Gallery Via di Mezzo 42/b

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lorence is paying tribute to Fritz Koenig – the German artist who made the bronze sculpture “The Sphere” that survived the 9/11 attack – with an exhibition, the first since the artist’s death in 2017, running until Oct. 7.

The exhibit, on display at the Boboli Garden and the Uffizi Gallery, showcases sculptures and drawings made by Koenig in the last 40 years of his life.

The bronze, stone and corten steel of Koenig’s monumental sculptures impart rhythm to the mother of all Italian-style gardens, the Boboli Gardens. Visitors can admire the smooth or rough forms of Koenig’s art against a backdrop of views of the city amongst hedges, majestic trees, and sweeping lawns. Love, eroticism, death, epitaphs, and

the Holocaust were the dominant themes of Koenig’s work.

“Fritz Koenig had watchful blue eyes. He also had very fine hands with strong yet tapering fingers which looked exactly the way he drew them. He was a charming man and instantly bewitched his interlocutors. Charm, according to a definition coined by Albert Camus, is that which prompts a person to say yes even before he has been asked for anything. With women Koenig became a kind of Don Juan, and he himself found them impossible to resist,” wrote exhibit curator Alexander Rudigier.

The exhibition is held under the lofty patronage of Duke Franz of Bavaria, a personal friend of the artist and a major international collector of contemporary art.

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The Art Exhibits in Italy Riding Through Time

The art of horse riding from antiquity to the middle ages

MILAN - Caravaggio. Beyond the Canvas: an Immersive Show, Museo della Permanente, Oct. 6 – Jan. 27.

This multimedia experience uses innovative technology to explore Caravaggio’s art. The exhibit is divided into 4 parts and is about Caravaggio as a man rather than just as an artist.

Picasso Metamorfosi, Palazzo Reale, Oct. 18 – Feb. 17.

This exhibit, which looks at the relationship between Picasso, myths and antiquity, showcases about 200 works both by Picasso or that inspired him.

FERRARA - Courbet and Nature, Palazzo dei Diamanti, Sept. 29 – Jan. 6.

The exhibit showcases about 50 works by French painter Gustave Courbet.

BOLOGNA - Hokusai Hiroshige. Oltre l’Onda. Capolavori dal Boston

Museum of Fine Arts, Museo Civico Archeologico, Oct. 12 – March 3.

Showcases about 270 works by Japanese masters Katsushika Hokusai (1760 - 1849) and Utagawa Hiroshige (1797 - 1858), both known for their use of waves and flowing worlds.

ASTI - Chagall. Colore e Magia, Palazzo Mazzetti, Sept. 27 – Feb. 3.

NOVARA - Ottocento in Collezione.

Dai Macchiaioli a Segantini, Novara Castle, Oct. 20 – Feb. 24.

PADUA - Gauguin e gli Impressionisti. Capolavori dalla Collezione Ordrupgaard, Palazzo Zabrella, Sept. 29 – Jan. 27.

The exhibit showcases impressionist masterpieces from the Danish museum.

TREVISO - Da Tiziano a Van Dyck.

Il Volto del ‘500, Casa dei Carraresi, Sept. 26 – Feb. 3.

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osted in the Limonaia in the Boboli Garden from June 26 to Oct. 14, this exhibit recounts the relationship between man and horse in all its possible aspects.

From daily life and children’s games to war and religious ritual, horses were always a constant presence by man’s side.

Riding Through Time explores the evolution of the tools to master horses such as bits, snaffle bits, spurs, stirrups and other artifacts alongside works of art illustrating the role played by the horse in the ancient world. The exhibition includes about 100 items coming from museums from all over the world. It is divided into five sections

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– prehistory, the world of Greece and Magna Graecia, the Etruscan and Venetic world, the age of Rome, and the Middle Ages – covering a period of over 2,000 years from the Early Iron Age to the later Middle Ages.

Items on display for the first time include the Populonia Gig, a rare example of an Etruscan carriage discovered in the mid-20th century in the so-called “Fossa della Biga” (or “Two-Horse Chariot Ditch”). The piece has been reassembled and restored for this special event. Made of wood, iron and bronze, the ‘Gig’ was a vehicle used to carry highprofile personalities on occasion of wedding processions or funeral

corteges and dates back to the early 5th century BC. Of particular interest are two horse skulls unearthed during excavations in the western necropolis of Himera usually on display in the Museo Pirro Marconi in the Himera Archaeological Park, and the Attic red-figure kylix depicting Athena and the Trojan Horse (The inner bowl of the cup, painted by the Sabouroff Painter, shows the goddess Athena enthroned, stroking a huge horse sporting the known red woollen bands which signify victory tainiai niketeriai).

“The whole concept of this exhibition appears to be encapsulated in one of the pieces on display, a splendid pair of 4th century BC bronze and ivory chanfrons designed to protect the horse’s forehead, nose and muzzle: the silhouette of the metal sheeting, shaped and embossed to follow the outline of the horse’s elongated anatomy, but, far from displaying the anatomy of a horse, it represents the features of a human face sporting a helmet on its head, as the horse and its rider become a single, fused being,” said Uffizi director Eike Schmidt.

Riding Through Time Limonaia del Giardino di Boboli Full ticket € 10.00; reduced € 5.00 Free for children under 18 Open every day from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. (closed first and last Monday of the month)

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Showcasing Models of Leonardo’s Designs

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The Fables of Da Vinci The Fables of Leonardo da Vinci is a small collection of fables created from notations for fables and half-finished fable ideas found in the back of Leonardo’s famous notebooks.

Author: Ed Tasca is an award-winning humor writer and novelist, and a student of da Vinci’s extraordinary life. This little book of fables is a homage to that writing genre, offering readers of every age a taste of the simplicity and clarity of one of man’s oldest and most revered forms of fiction writing. Author’s email: edtasca@gmail.com

The Walnut and Belltower

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he exhibit presents working models of Leonardo’s designs that the Niccolai family has been reconstructing since 1995, when Carlo Niccolai dedicated himself to working full-time with the desire to realise Leonardo’s legacy.

His passion founded the Niccolai Collection, the largest private collection of Leonardo models in the world, comprised of more than 300 working models created by himself and his sons, together with a team of artisans, engineers, historians and architects.

The models have been displayed at more than 100 international exhibitions throughout Europe and as far afield as Australia, New Zea-

land, China, the US, Brazil, Saudi Arabia and Finland. The exhibit also displays copies of six codices that reveal the inner workings of this great man’s mind.

The Niccolai family has been widely praised for their ongoing devotion in realising the vast inheritance that Leonardo left to science.

Le Macchine di Leonardo da Vinci Via Cavour 21 www.macchinedileonardo.com

A walnut lay lazily in the forest bed, covered by the fallen leaves of the tree that dropped it, its beloved father.

A crow swooped down and carried the nut high into the sky above the city. The walnut knew that it was only a matter of time before the crow would crack it open and eat it.

As the crow was passing over the top of the town’s lofty belltower, bells began to ring. The walnut begged the exalted belltower for help. “Belltower,” the lowly walnut squeaked, “the housing that cradles your bells is made entirely of the wood of the walnut tree. Can you please ring out so loud that this terrible bird will drop me to safety?”

The belltower heard the walnut’s appeal, and smiled at the chance of showing how easily it could outwit Nature. At the moment the crow passed overhead, the belltower bells rang out so loudly they jangled the crow’s nerves and forced it to drop the tiny walnut.

The walnut fell into a crevice of the belltower floor. The crow knew instantly that it could never reach the well-protected walnut.

“Thank you,” said the walnut to the Belltower, once the bells quieted down. “Nothing can ever remove me from this spot. I will always be safe.”

“Don’t thank me,” said the belltower. “You are one seed that won’t grow into wood that could be made into a another belltower that would be greater than me.”

Within a short time, the belltower’s crevice became filled with dirt, which made the nut cozy and ambitious.

Within a few months, the nut began to burst open and to put its roots in among the crevices of the stones, pushing the stones apart.

Soon, the walnut began throwing up shoots out of the spaces in the building’s floor, and these shoots became long muscular branches that soon rose above the top of the building. When several years passed, the sapling grew into a

tree. Its roots grew thicker, twisting their way deeper into the stone walls of the building. The belltower was aghast at the betrayal. And one day while its bells were chiming, one of its walls suddenly tore open and the old stones that were once so firm and steady began to crumble. Soon, another wall would fall. And then another.

The walnut tree soon found itself totally free again, growing in every direction out of the mountain of rubble left by the hapless belltower.

When the walnut looked around and saw what it had done, it laughed, and the laughter peeled like bells. It marveled at its own hidden strength. But its own joy was short-lived.

When the builders came to rebuild the belltower, the strong, young tree would be the first tree sacrificed for the lumber vital for the new construction.

Moral: The greatest and the smallest all need one another in ways we can seldom imagine.

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Ten Commandments For Tourists

group of 50 local tour guides transcribed a series of rules for tourists in Florence, which hit the headlines of local media last month. The initiative, called “l’Armata pacifica” (literally, The Peaceful Army), came last year shortly after Mayor Dario Nardella took measures to prevent tourists from picnicking and camping in front of the city’s iconic churches

by hosing down their steps. Summer, perhaps due to the severe heat, is surely the period of the year in which tourists most frequently misbehave. We have thus decided to take inspiration from this idea and rearrange the ten rules into commandments. Respectful tourists should obey them strictly, as if they had in fact come from the mouth of the almighty Lord above.

Thou shalt not crowd around the street vendors.

Thou shalt not feast barbarically by the churches, basilicas, or other sacred grounds.

Thou shalt not abandon your masses of rubbish on the streets.

Honor the sidewalks and streets with strolling, not with your luggage.

Thou shalt not ask for canals in Florence, for thou shalt not find them.

Honor the que for the taxi.

Thou shalt not gratuitously indulge in selfies in front of Palazzo Vecchio or other monuments .

Thou shalt not use the sidewalks as toilets or urinals.

Thou shalt not use the fountains as a shower.

Thou shalt not shout aggressively - even if intoxicated.

Florence News 11

NEWS

Campaign Encourages Tourists to Respect Florence

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he City of Florence has launched a campaign called #EnjoyRespectFirenze that promotes sustainable tourism to preserve the heritage of Florence by respecting the city and its inhabitants. Following are the main points of the campaign: • Remember you are not allowed to eat food, drink, or lie down on the street or staircases. If you wish to eat something or rest be sure to use proper benches and tables.

• Don’t climb the monuments.

• Vandalizing monuments, doors, or walls is a serious crime punishable by law.

• It is forbidden to be drunk in public.

• It is forbidden to litter. Please dispose of any garbage or recyclables in their proper containers.

• It is forbidden to eat or drink on the steps of monuments and churches.

• Don’t write on churches or works of art • Don’t swim in the fountains • In public places and establishments be sure to wear a shirt. Going shirtless or wearing a swimsuit is not considered enough coverage.

• Don’t engage in any behavior that would endanger you or others.

• In places of worship, short dresses, shorts, and tank tops generally aren’t allowed. If you plan on visiting any of Florence’s many churches, be sure to dress conservatively, making sure your clothing goes past your knees.

• Beware of counterfeit goods. Just a few days ago I saw a scammer trying to sell a single watch on the street, claiming it was a Rolex. Always buy your goods from stores that are clearly marked. Abusive sellers are punishable by law, but you are too if you buy from them.

• When it comes to your noise level, please be considerate, especially from midnight to 7 a.m. Don’t disturb the peace with excessive shouting or loud musical instruments.

• If you need to relieve yourself, always use a public toilet. Urinating in public and exposing your private parts is strictly forbidden.

• There are four information points in the city: Piazza Stazione, via Cavour, Bigallo (piazza Duomo) and at the airport.

• In Florence there is fresh water available to the public. Be sure to carry a reusable water bottle.

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12 Florence News

CITY BEAT

September Dome S

eptember 8, 1296, was the day when the foundation of the new Florence Cathedral was laid.

Founded in the early 5th century, the old church, Santa Reparata, was crumbling with age, and since Pisa and Siena, which at that time were – and perhaps still today are, although to a lesser extent – two rival cities, had built new ones, Florence too needed a new one, if only to reassert its power.

This was the reason why, one day in 1294, someone from the Florence Council knocked the door of Arnolfo di Cambio, a sculptor, architect and urbanist born in Colle Val D’Elsa (today in the province of Siena), to inform him that he had been assigned the task of the project for the new city’s Cathedral. Less than two years later construction had already begun, Arnolfo being destined to go down in history not just for Santa Maria del Fiore but also for Santa Croce, Santa Maria Novella, and Palazzo Vecchio.

The first stone was laid on Sept. 9, 1296. Arnolfo died 14 years after that first stone had been laid down in his presence, that of Cardinal Valeriana, the papal legate sent to Florence to give the benediction of the Pope to the Cathedral – the first time this ever happened in history – and all those Florentines who had come by to see history passing in front of their eyes.

Who knows if Arnolfo would be happy of how his project was

realized if he could ever see his Dome now. Although maintained in concept, the original plan was changed. The Cathedral is much bigger than it was supposed to be, and not exactly as his designer had pictured it. In fact, there was no bell tower in the original project.

After between 1310 and 1340 works had slowed down, the project gained a new impetus when the relics of Saint Zenobius were discovered in 1330 in what remained of the old Church. One year later, in

SEPTEMBER www.florencenews.it

Talenti, as Pisano meanwhile had died. Talenti finished the bell tower and enlarged the overall project to include the apse and the side chapels. After he died, a series of other architects followed – Giovanni di Lapo Ghini, Alberto Arnoldi, Neri di Fioravante, and Andrea Orcagna: by 1375, the old church was pulled down, by 1380 the nave was finished, and by 1418 only the

The city, eternally divided in two factions – we need only think to the Guelfs and the Ghibellins – had to face another one: Lorenzo or Filippo? Yesterday, like today, jealousy was frequent among artists, no holds barred. However, Brunelleschi had quite an advantage, as he was supported by no less than Cosimo de Medici. Ghiberti, instead, had won a competition for a pair

dome remained incomplete.

In 1418, the Arte della Lana complicated things for the better. The guild in fact announced an architectural design competition to erect Neri’s dome. The two main competitors were two master goldsmiths who were also two bitter rivals: Lorenzo Ghiberti and Filippo Brunelleschi.

of bronze doors for the Baptistery in 1401. Who won? Filippo, Lorenzo had to be content with a role as coadjutor.

However, the city tried to broaden peace, as salary was the same for both: and in one respect, it even resulted in losses on both ends.

None of them, in fact, were awarded the announced prize of 200 flo-

The two main competitors were two master goldsmiths who were also two bitter rivals: Lorenzo Ghiberti and Filippo Brunelleschi.

1331, the guild of wool merchants took over patronage for the construction and assigned Giotto the job of continuing Arnolfo’s project.

Although Giotto’s contribution was essential – we owe him the magnificent tower next to the Dome – he died just seven years later and was replaced by Andrea Pisano, who worked until 1348 when works had to be interrupted because of Black Death.

As works resumed in 1349, the guild of wool then hired Francesco

rins. But was this truce rather than peace? For soon it became clear that the choice of the winner was right. One day, in fact, Brunelleschi became ill. For real? Or was he just pretending to, to demonstrate that he was the only one who could do it? Who knows. Fact is that, for a while, the project remained in the hands of Ghiberti, who soon had to admit that the whole thing was too much for him. As the admission came, Brunelleschi was now, all of a sudden, healed and got the entire situation under control. Wasn’t he the only one who could complete the Dome in Arnolfo’s spirit?

On the first day of 1436, which was March 25 according to the Florentine calendar, the cathedral was consecrated by Pope Eugene IV. Question: How long did it take to build the Cathedral? 140 years.

Sorry: 591. It was only in 1887, in fact, that the polychrome marble façade was completed with the design of Emilio De Fabris. Why? You know, here in Florence we take it easy but, at least, we do things… perhaps with a good amount of quality.

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La Traviata at Santo Stefano Church

C. DE MELO “La traviata last night was a failure.

Was the fault mine or the singers’?

Time will tell.”

Those words were penned by Giuseppe Verdi to a friend the day after La Traviata premiered at Venice’s La Fenice in 1853.

La Fenice’s manager had insisted on giving the leading role of “Violetta” to Fanny Salvini-Donatelli, a corpulent 38-year-old woman.

Although she was an acclaimed singer, the audience openly jeered at her for attempting to portray a young courtesan dying of consumption. One can only imagine Verdi’s utter frustration and disappointment.

“The Fallen Woman” (La Traviata) was written as a tragic three act opera based on a play, which was taken from the French novel “The Lady with the Camellias” by Alexandre Dumas (author of “The Three Musketeers”). The plot is simple: forbidden love.

Violetta, a Parisian courtesan, falls in love with Alfredo, a young bourgeois from the countryside.

Alfredo’s father, Giorgio, is against the relationship due to Violetta’s dubious past and convinces her to break off the love affair. Alfredo is furious and humiliates her in public. When Violetta is on her deathbed, she reconciles with Alfredo.

Giorgio apologizes to her before she takes her final breath. Naturally, the music and lyrics are infused with emotion to lift the soul of the

listener.

To experience Verdi’s timeless work in any venue is a visual and auditory delight, but Santo Stefano is a special place. The earliest mention of this Romanesque style church dates back to 1116. The original 12th century facade is comprised of white marble from Carrara and green marble from Prato. The interior was revamped in the 17th century to convert three aisles into an open space. Finally, Santo Stefano boasts wonderful acoustics.

The church does not have a stage but a high altar with a stone balustrade along the front. The opera performed at this venue is mainly for listening pleasure, consisting of three talented singers – a tenor, a baritone, and a soprano – two talented musicians (grand piano, double bass), and four dancers. No elaborate theatrical performance accompanies the music, as one would expect in a traditional opera house.

If you’ve never seen La Traviata, do a bit of research beforehand. It will make the experience far more enjoyable.

Dancers at La Traviata show are from the Florence Dance Performance school. Choreography is by Donatella Cantagallo.

INFO & BOOKING: www.operainroma.com Email: florence@operainroma.com Cell: +39 373 774 6001 Landline: +39 055 230 2411

Florence News 13

CITY BEAT

San Lorenzo Calls for Charity

ANNE SCHILLER

T

he San Lorenzo Outdoor Market enjoys a long history. Predecessors of today’s outdoor vendors have offered wares on neighborhood streets for over 500 years. As tourism increased, the market grew in size. New opportunities also brought challenges, including irregular vendors who compete unlawfully with licensed vendors and put shoppers at risk of fines. In 2015, a dedicated group of Florentine ambulant vendors headed by Roberto Calamai, Alessandro Belli-Blanes, and Paolo De Regina established the organization “The Survivors of San Lorenzo” to encourage legality, promote made-in-Italy goods, and preserve the tradition of outdoor vending.

De Regina explained “San Lorenzo is not a place for chaos or where anyone should behave disrespectfully. It is a community. We want to

increase awareness of the beautiful art and honest people at its heart.”

The organization engages in public service, evidenced by the success of its second annual “San Lorenzo Dreams-Party in the Streets” on June 16, 2018. That event, which included dinner and music, raised over 2000 euro for the Tuscany Tumor Association. The association also spearheaded the restoration of the Tabernacle of the Little Fountains, which includes a sixteenth-century della Robbia polychrome terracotta, on via Nazionale in 2016. It sponsors the “Crèche of the Florentines” beside the San Lorenzo Church during the holidays and a winter banquet in honor of residents whose activities or heroism make Florence a better place to live.

More information is available at https://www.facebook.com/isopravvissuti2015/

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14 Florence News

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Potions & Poisons A Medieval Tradition

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ong before commercial pharmacies, curatives were made at home. While a few apothecaries existed in private and monastic sectors, the majority of remedies were the result of flower lore. This precious knowledge passed from one generation to the other with only slight variances.

Poultices, usually made of crushed herbs with linseed oil, were applied topically. This warm moist mass relieved pain and reduced inflammation. Similarly, unguents were viscous ointments used to heal sores or cuts. One would apply a poultice or unguent to a plaster-

or bandage- before wrapping the wounded area. Finally, draughts (or drafts) were used to treat insomnia, nervousness, or indigestion. These herbaceous brews were usually consumed hot or warm.

Midwives and healers aided communities immensely with their knowledge and expertise. The list of flowers, roots, and herbs was long. Feverfew treated fevers and, when thrown onto the flames of the hearth, aided in childbearing.

Chamomile and willow bark relieved cramps. Black currant eased the pain of bowel inflammation.

Hemlock, foxglove, pennyroyal,

and oleander were tricky, however.

Hemlock was sometimes used to treat anxiety. Used incorrectly, it can paralyze the lungs and cause suffocation. A pinch of foxglove, a lovely flower, is beneficial when treating intestinal ailments. Too much can trigger diarrhea and cardiac arrest in an adult.

While researching for the novel RUTHLESS: A Novel Set in Gothic Verona, it became apparent that poison was frequently used in the Middle Ages. The story features the Ghibelline warlord, Cangrande I della Scala, who ruled over Verona in the first half of the 14th century.

After many failed attempts to conquer Treviso, Cangrande finally succeeded in taking control of the city. On July 18, 1329 he rode into Treviso a victorious conqueror, only to die a few days later on July 22, 1329. The diarrhea and fever he suffered prior to his death was documented as the result of consuming water from a polluted spring. Rumors of poison began circulating shortly afterward. In an attempt to solve the mystery of Cangrande’s sudden death, his mummified body was exhumed from its tomb in Santa Maria Antiqua in 2004. Researchers from the University of Pisa studied the toxicology of his remains. Traces of chamomile, black mulberry, and a lethal amount of pollen grains from the foxglove flower were found in his digestive tract. Cause of death?

Digitalis, also known as foxglove poisoning. The question still remains: WHO killed Cangrande?

RUTHLESS: A Novel Set in Gothic Verona is available on Amazon.

SEPTEMBER www.florencenews.it

Extra-luxury Since 1830

With its evening bags, walking sticks, and fans, Ottino has been supplying the royal family since its establishment in 1830.

Thanks to its reputation for selling high quality items, the shop soon became an essential stop for the European aristocracy when visiting Florence.

After the Second World War, Ottino established its name as one of the foremost producers of leather accessories.

Since then, its products became the symbol of quality for Florentines as well as for the English and American communities living in Florence or visiting the city.

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SEPTEMBER www.florencenews.it

Running Against Breast Cancer Corri La Vita Returns Sept. 30

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he Corri la Vita marathon is returning on Sept. 30. Founded in 2003, the marathon has been raising over 5.000.000 euro in 15 years, with 300.000 participants from all over the world, bringing together charity, physical activity, culture and social commitment.

Athletes and non-athletes alike are welcome to participate in the five-kilometer walk or the 11-kilometer competitive run that begins in Piazza Duomo and takes partic-

ipants through some of the most scenic parts of Florence. While winding through the historic center and stopping along the way to visit gardens, churches and palaces, volunteers will provide historical and artistic information about the city.

On the marathon’s day, several Florentine palaces, museums, gardens, churches will be open to the public, some of which are part of the itineraries of the race. By wear-

FINE SUSHI NIGHT

Every Wednesday at 8 p.m.

Machiavelli Palace Hotel Via Nazionale, 10

ing a Corri La Vita 2018 shirt, or by showing your registration ticket, you will have free access to the agreement spots.

From Sept. 1, all participants can pick up their shirt in exchange for a donation of a minimum of 10 euro (15 euro for the racing bib).

Those unable to be in Florence on Sept. 30 can have the shirt shipped for free through a donation to the marathon website.

A new line of merchandise has been launched to support the fight against cancer, which includes a series of products specifically designed for all sport enthusiasts.

Among these is, a handy, elegant and practical sport bag. For those who prefer to run to the beat of music there is a practical, anatomically designed backpack with holes for headphones and reflector bands. Other products include a wind jacket, an umbrella, a cap, shopping bag and a watch. Contributions to the campaign can also be made throughout the year on www.corrilavita.it/donazioni.

Walkers and runners make an important social contribution, with all proceeds going directly to Florence’s public health department to support breast cancer research, help patients directly and assist the volunteers in their work. Those collected from the last edition were given to L.I.L.T. Lega Italiana per la Lotta contro i Tumori Sezione di Firenze (Florence Cancer Association) supporting Ce.Ri.On. Centro Riabilitazione Oncologica (Oncology Center in Florence), FILE Fondazione Italiana di Leniterapia (palliative care Association),

Florence News 15

CITY BEAT

“The Vito Distante Project in Breast Cancer Clinical Research” and SenoNetwork Italia Onlus (national network for cancer patients).

Enrollment forms and info are available for download at www. corrilavita.it or at participating stores.

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16 Florence News

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SEPTEMBER www.florencenews.it

KSU Fall Lectures Oct. 9, 6:30 p.m.: Giorgio Ricchiuti: Technology and Labour: New challenges for Education. The current technological revolution exacerbates the debate on sustainability or complementarity among workers and machines.

Nowadays, it appears that thanks to the developments achieved in artificial intelligence, machines could substitute workers also in more sophisticated tasks. However, what emerges from previous revolutions, is that new sectors may appear as a response to technological innovations. In the current scenario, a possible answer might be the rise of the green economy. The uncertainty interconnected to this transition phase passes through to education, calling for a need to investigate, what the characteristics of the workers of the future should/ will be. Giorgio Ricchiuti defended his Ph.D. at the Università degli Studi di Firenze (Italy) with a thesis in empirical and theoretical international economics on the (real)

exchange rate. He is currently Associate Professor at the Department of Economics and Management of the Università degli Studi di Firenze, Fellow of the Complexity Lab in Economics at Università Cattolica del Sacro Cuore (in Milan) and instructor of Macroeconomics at New York University in Florence. His research has been regarding dynamic models with heterogeneous agents and bounded rationality in financial markets and industrial organization market structure. From an empirical point of view, Ricchiuti has been focusing on how different modes of internationalization (mainly FDI) affect productivity, sales and firms’ survival probability.

Nov. 6, 6:30 p.m. Allen J. Grieco (Villa I Tatti, The Harvard University Center for Italian Renaissance Studies) Wine, Wine Tasting and Doctors in Renaissance Italy Allen Grieco (Ph. D. École des Hautes Études en Sciences Sociales) is Senior Research Associate in

History at Villa I Tatti (The Harvard University Centre for Italian Renaissance Studies). Dr. Grieco has published extensively on the cultural history of food in Italy from the 14th to the 16th centuries and co-edited several collective volumes amongst which: Food Excesses and Constraints in Europe, special issue of Food & History (2006), Dalla vite al vino. Fonti e problemi della vitivinicoltura italiana nel medioevo (Bologna, 1994) and Le Monde végétal (XIIe–XVIIe siècles): savoirs et usages sociaux (Vincennes, 1993). Currently co editor-in-chief of Food & History (Turnhout, Brepols), he is also in charge of a bibliographic project on the history of food in Europe funded by the Mellon Foundation and the Bibliothèque Nationale de France.

Dr. Grieco has taught at Harvard, Florence, Bologna, and created the first English language M.A. program at the Università delle Scienze Gastronomiche, Pollenzo (Italy).

Florence Creativity Returns

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reativity is never-ending, especially at the fall edition of the Florence Creativity Festival that is taking place at the Fortezza da Basso next month from Thursday, Oct. 25 to Sunday, Oct. 28.

The fair, now in its eighth year, includes events, courses and expositors presenting new ideas, techniques and materials, and is an event not to be missed for all of those who feel passion in their hands and are interested in developing and investing in the art of ‘do-it-yourself.’

Fabrics, buttons, paints, brushes, needles, threads, glues and paper will be the tools through which anyone will be able to stimulate his or her creativity. The courses offered include techniques for painting on silk, home decor, cutting, sewing, creative sewing, crochet, knitting, repairs, weaving

Via Ghibellina 178/r • 055 2645411 • www.ristoranterubaconte.it New! Wine tasting and buffet dinner from 30 euro!

for children and adults, creative workshops for children, bracelet making, bijoux and necklaces, processing wool, painting and so on, as infinite are the ways human creativity can express itself.

One of the initiatives at the last edition that thrilled the most was the Creative Zoo, a panel to create a zoo following given patterns that can be downloaded from the fair website: www.florencecreativity.it Tickets cost €10 for adults and €6 for children. Entrance is free for children younger than 10 and for accompanies or disables. Groups of more than 10 people will pay €6, and for a group bigger than 20 people, a free ticket will be given to the organizer. Those interested in becoming expositors can find a form in the fair website. Opening hours at the event are from 9.30 a.m. to 7 p.m.

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Pianist to perform Sept. 26

band born under the initiative of Francesco, it includes some of the biggest and respected names on the jazz scene amongst its members. Among these are trumpeter and band conductor Fabio Morgera, who played under legendary American jazz cornetist; composer and conductor Butch Morris for 30 years in New York; Dario Cecchini, sax and leader of Italian marching band Funk Off; trumpeter Luca Marianini; trombone player Ste-

I

“We never play anything recorded here” he says with a smile. The method of bridging cultures at Porto di Mare is just getting out an instrument and beginning to play.

“I’d be keen to talk to anyone who is interested in playing and sharing their music with us,” Francesco says.

The club has also created its own big band, the Eskimo Jazz Orchestra. An all-star Tuscan jazz

fano Scalzi and guitarist Riccardo Onori, who both played alongside renowned Italian singer-songwriter and rapper Jovanotti; percussionists Walter Paoli, ex-member of 1970s Italian jazz, progressive rock and electronic group Area, and Piero Borri; clarinet player Nico Gori; and guitarists Paolo Conte, Ivano Fossati and Riccardo Galardini – to name just (a little more than) a few.

CITY BEAT

Firenze Libro Aperto Opens with Bollani

A ‘Port’ for All Musicians

s with any port, Porto di Mare-Eskimo is synonymous with exchange, correspondence, and coming and going. This year the club has an important novelty: courses of typical Italian dance Tarantella, which will be taking place on Friday night.

Porto di Mare's focus on live music and cultural exchange is one that the man who started the club, Francesco Cofone, holds close to his heart.

Florence News 17

talian pianist-composer Stefano Bollani will open the Firenze Libro Aperto book fair on Sept.

26. Bollani will perform at 7 p.m. at the Padiglione Spadolini inside the Fortezza da Basso, the venue where Firenze Libro Aperto takes place. Tickets will cost € 15 and will be also valid for the first day of the fair, Friday Sept. 28, before 2:30 p.m. Bollani recently released his new album Que bom, a genuine hymn to life marked by sparkling liveliness and contagious joy. The album is a mix of original tunes and distinctive melodies influenced by Brazilian music culture, which Bollani has always cherished since the very beginning of his rich, multifaceted career.

In this new album, entirely produced by himself and the first to be released worldwide by his newly created label Alobar, Bollani is

joined by a Brazilian rhythm section: Jorge Helder (bass), Jurim Moreira (drums) and Armando Marçal (percussion), and Thiago da Serrinha (percussion), as he was in his earlier album Carioca released 10 years ago. Que Bom also ‘hosts’ some Brazilian guest stars such as Caetano Veloso, João Bosco, Jaques Morelenbaum and Hamilton de Holanda.

Bollani began studying the piano at the age of six and made his professional debut at 15. After graduating at the music Conservatory in Florence in 1993 and a brief experience as a session musician with some renowned Italian pop artists, he became an established jazz musician and performed on stages such as the Town Hall in New York, the Barbican in London, the Scala in Milan, and the Salle Pleyel in Paris. Crucial in his

career has been his collaboration with Enrico Rava, with whom he has performed hundreds of concerts and recorded 13 albums, the most recent of which are Tati (2015), The Third Man (2005) and New York Days (2008). Bollani has also worked with musicians such as Richard Galliano, Bill Frisell, Gato Barbieri, Sol Gabetta, Phil Woods, Lee Konitz, Pat Metheny, and Chick Corea, with whom he recorded the live album Orvieto in 2011. His most recent productions include: Big Band (2013); Joy in Spite of Everything (2014); Sheil Yer Zappa (a 2014 live recording dedicated to Frank Zappa); Arrivano gli Alieni (a 2015 album in which he tried his hand as a singer-songwriter for the first time); Napoli Trip (a 2016 album made in collaboration with Neapolitan artists Daniele Sepe, Manu Katché, Jan Bang and others); and Mediterraneo, a live recording in Berlin with Jesper Bodilsen, Morten Lund, Vincent Peirani and members of the Berliner Philharmoniker, arranged by Geir Lysne.

Firenze Libro Aperto

Sept. 26-28 Opening Sept. 26, 7 p.m. (€ 15) Tickets can be purchased at Ticketone and Box Office for € 10 ( if you get there by Friday at 1 p.m. you’ll pay € 7). Each ticket will allow to attend all the events of the day, including the concerts. A three-day ticket can also be purchased for € 20.

For more info see: firenzelibroaperto2018.it

Winner Gelato Festival Firenze 2016

Live music and aperitivo ♦

Via della Catena 2

Via de’ Ginori 49r

Via de'Ginori 49r • 393 069 6042

392 172 4859 ◆ www.lepavoniere.it ◆ Live music begins at 9 p.m.

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10 Tips for New Arrivals

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A guide for adjusting and thriving in Florence

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n the labyrinth of narrow streets and foreign road signs, Florence can seem like a daunting place for anyone setting foot here for the first time. Naturally, those who are newly arrived come across hurdles as they attempt to get familiar with the city. To avoid the dangers of the first period, here are a few tips.

GET LOST: Take a stroll off the tourist-beaten path. Wandering through side streets by foot is one

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of the best ways to get to know the city. You’re more likely to find authentic Italian craft and food shops this way, rather than sticking to the city center. Pack a camera, some cash and leave your worries behind. Don’t fret. All roads (eventually) lead back to the Duomo.

ALWAYS KEEP TRACK OF YOUR BELONGINGS: Florence is not a dangerous city but pickpocketing

can occur, so you stay mindful.

Don’t leave your important personal belongings unattended when you are in a bar, pub or restaurant; always keep an eye on your purse and always keep it close.

KNOW HOW TO FIND A DOCTOR. If you find yourself in need of medical assistance while in Florence, you can find English-speaking doctors by calling 055/475411. The call service is active 24-hour a day.

The Medical Service Center is in Via Roma 4, very close to the Dome and to Piazza della Repubblica.

Website is www.medicalservice. firenze.it KNOW WHERE TO FIND A BIG SUPERMARKET: It is not easy to find big supermarkets in Florence.

However, CONAD SAPORI & DINTORNI are three large supermarkets in the city center that offer typical Italian products and a wide selection of wines. The CONAD SAPORI & DINTORNI for those living near the Ponte Vecchio, in Santo Spirito or in Santa Croce is on Via de’ Bardi, near the Ponte Vecchio. For those living near the train station the CONAD SAPORI & DINTORNI is on Largo Alinari at the end of Via Nazionale, very close to the station. The third big supermarket is very near the Dome, in Borgo San Lorenzo.

SPEAK THE LANGUAGE: It’s easy to get by in Florence without speaking Italian, but challenge yourself - it’s worth it! In stores, clerks tend to respond in English if they realize that it is your na-

Florence News 19

CITY BEAT tive language, but be persistent.

Gesture. Practice. Meet the locals.

Pick up a newspaper, magazine or even a brochure written in Italian and see how much you can understand. Underline the words and phrases you haven’t learned yet and look them up!

SOME MORE LANGUAGE ADVICE: Just to make learning a foreign language a little bit more challenging, Italian has several words that look and sound like the English equivalent but have completely different meanings. For example, a ‘libreria’ is an Italian bookshop, not a library, so be sure to pay for your books or you could find yourself in a bit of a sticky situation. The importance of accents should also be noted: by forgetting to stress the ‘o’ in ‘casinò’ you are referring to a brothel, not a gambling house!

EAT LIKE A LOCAL: Americans are accustomed to fast food. We like our coffee on the go; sandwiches ordered, prepared and consumed in the passenger seat of our cars in under five minutes. While in Florence, you should eat like the locals: take the time to eat. Sit (or stand) at a bar to drink your cappuccino.

Enjoy it. You might find the change of pace relaxing. When you’re out to eat for dinner, appreciate the multi-course meal. No more of the take-home doggy bags! Portions are smaller here and you’ll notice that food is made for quality, not quantity. Embrace the fact that you’re eating the most delicious Italian food, and remember to take

time to enjoy it.

When looking for a sandwich shop, avoid the prepared sandwiches on display. For the freshest ingredients, find a place that will make your sandwich when you order. A tip for gelato lovers: stay away from the foot-high rainbow mounds of ice cream. They are that bright for a reason. They aren’t as natural and definitely not as fresh.

DRINK LIKE A LOCAL: Wine is part of Italian culture and is to be enjoyed and appreciated, not abused. Italians will laugh at anyone they come across drinking on the streets, so pace yourselves. Sit at a table and drink for pleasure as opposed to bingeing!

TAKE ADVANTAGE OF THE TREASURES OF TUSCANY: To live like a local, you have to know your location. While it’s exciting and rewarding to travel all over Europe during this time, check out what Tuscany has to offer! A lot of activities and trips can be done in a single day, by train or by bus.

STAY POSITIVE: Not everything goes according to plan, but it’s you who determines the outcome of the situation. A bad attitude isn’t going to get you far, with either locals or other students you meet.

By keeping an open mind, you’re more likely to absorb the culture and take away more from your experience. Understand that you will be challenged linguistically, intellectually and morally, and recognize that it’s all part of the adventure.

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20 Florence News

CITY BEAT

Survive Culture Shock A guide to Italy’s surprises, contrasts and chaos SARAH HUMPHREYS

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“

talia! Oh Italia! Thou who hast the fatal gift of Beauty”: Byron’s tribute to il bel paese still rings true today. Italy’s magnetic charm has been attracting visitors for centuries and it is easy to see why. It is almost impossible not to fall in love with this uniquely seductive country, justifiably wellknown for its scenic beauty, artistic treasures, incredible food and wine, and iconic historical and cultural heritage.

Italy is full of surprises, contrasts and chaos; not least for those who are visiting for the first time. Many aspects of Italian life – ranging from eating times, ‘rules’ about drinking coffee, trying to cross the road, and dealing with unwanted attention – can be a real culture shock.Culture shock can be defined as ‘emotional disorientation caused by continuously unexpected reactions to the new culture.’ Culture shock can manifest itself in various ways, including anxiety, depression, loneliness, migraines and lack of energy. It is described as having four stages: the Honeymoon Period, Crisis Period, Adaption Period and Stabilization Period. Psychologists say that all fours stages must be lived through to achieve intercultural

competence.

Apart from being overwhelmed by the exquisite food and wine, musical language, natural beauty and (mostly) lovely weather, the newcomer to Florence also risks being infected by ‘Stendhal Syndrome’, so-called after the 19th-century writer: a psychosomatic condition that causes rapid heartbeat, dizziness and even hallucinations after an individual has been exposed to an ‘overdose’ of beautiful art. Doctors at Santa Maria Nuova regularly admit tourists suffering from ‘mental imbalances’, often after visiting the Uffizi, which is considered a particularly ‘dangerous’ spot.

One theory is that viewing so much culture can bring on feelings of anguish and insecurity.

On recovering from an overdose of art, beauty, ice cream and fine Chianti, reality starts to kick in.

As the ‘romantic’ Honeymoon period comes to an end, less positive aspects of Italian life will start to become more obvious. Feelings of anger and frustration are quite normal at this point. Nowhere is this more obvious than dealing with anything connected to any kind of documents, work permits, banking or transactions at the post office. You will just have to get used to standing in queues for hours (make sure you check

that you’re in the right one) before being practically ignored by a bored, power-crazed official with no concept of service. Bureaucracy is quite simply a nightmare.

You need an enormous amount of patience to deal with these situations, no matter how long you stay in Italy.

Once you begin to get used to rude shop assistants, insane driving, triple parking, not drinking cappuccinos after dinner and shops closing over lunchtime, the Adaption period begins and Italian life will begin to seem normal. After adjusting and adapting, it is usual to begin to feel at home. Learning Italian is a crucial step in fitting in and understanding the culture. After going through culture shock, psychologists say that you develop greater empathy for your surroundings, are able to think in a new cultural frame, have greater cultural patience and develop a more critical mind to see through myths and prejudices. As a foreigner living in Italy, you are allowed, or even expected to be different and even a little eccentric.

In the words of American writer Erica Jong, “What is the fatal charm of Italy? What do we find here that can be found nowhere else? I believe it is a certain permission to be human, which other places, other countries, lost long ago.”

SEPTEMBER www.florencenews.it

Become a Fiorentina Fan

How to get to the stadium:

BY SHUTTLE BUS: Bus no. 52 runs services from Piazza Stazione at Santa Maria Novella train station during the two hours preceding the game. The same shuttle runs return services up to an hour after the game finishes. From Rifredi train station take bus no. 54. These buses are usually packed, so if you have a chance to take the earlier one I recommend it.

HOW TO GET TICKETS: Stadium tickets typically cost anywhere from €20–70. They can be bought from online retailers or at authorized kiosks. The kiosk near the Piazza della Republica (right off Via Pellicceria) is a common

dealer. The best place to sit in the stadium is on the sideline so that you can see all the action. Sitting behind a goal is not ideal because it is difficult to view the action on the opposite side of the field. However, these seats are usually the cheapest. Make sure that, under no circumstances, you sit in the visitor section. This section is physically barricaded from the rest of the stadium, and the visiting fans who find themselves outside of this designated section are separated from the rest of the crowd by a human shield of security guards. Despite these precautions, tensions can get heated, so prepare for some rowdy scenes. But do not fear; it’s all part of the authentic experience of a Florentine soccer match.

MONDAY•YAB SMOOVE MONDAY•YAB Smoove WEDNESDAY•MUCHO MAS WEDNESDAY•Mucho Mas FRIDAY•LOVERS&FRIENDS FRIDAY•Lovers & Friends SATURDAY•YAB PALMS SATURDAY•YABber For possible program variations see Facebook Yab-Official

Via dei Sassetti 5/r • 055 215160 • www.yab.it • yab.official@gmail.com Facebook:YAB -Official

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22 Florence News

FOOD&WINE

Taste Wine with Pino In a renovated 700-year-old well

‘P

ozzo Divino’ is a witty play on words: literally meaning ‘divine well’, it also translates as ‘wine well’ when read as ‘Pozzo di Vino’.

The ancient well is now the cellar that hosts Pozzo Divino’s wine tours. Dating back to 1312, the well was built to supply water through a vast system of underground tunnels and pipes to the prisoners of a local prison known as ‘The Stinche’ (now Teatro Verdi) that stretched as far as the Bargello.

Pino bought the location in 2006 and restored it himself with the help of some friends. Despite its

restoration, Pino reveals that it was always his principal intention to maintain a tangible sense of history when stepping into the cellar.

This is something he has undoubtedly achieved; the place is almost like a time-machine propelling you back a few centuries into a part of authentic medieval Florence – albeit in excellent condition.

Pino imparts his knowledge while taking guests around the cellar, offering a range of Italian wines to sample with an appetizer of complementary regional cheeses, cuts of meats, bread, olive oil and balsamic vinegar.

Guests are offered a spectrum of Tuscan flavors to try, from a variety of the region’s renowned Chianti Classico to white wines that include Chardonnay, Sauvignon and Pinot Grigio. The wine-tasting ends with the most exclusive reds of the cellar: Bolgheri, Super Tuscan, Morellino and Montepulciano.

Upon request, guests also enjoy a buffet lunch comprising fresh pasta, specialty Italian second courses, and “the best panini in the world” made by Pino himself.

Pino boasts that 90 percent of the wines he holds are of Tuscan origin, and that his tours prove so popular that he often ships back boxes of the wine sampled to America in order to appease impressed customers. Those looking to take a taste of Tuscany back home can find comprehensive information on shipping zones and freight costs on the company’s website.

Pozzo Divino’s wine tours can be organized for tourist groups, families and universities, and cost only €15 a head – which not only makes it an experience to enjoy over the festive season but also an ideal Christmas gift for lovers of Tuscany’s finest vintages.

Pozzo Divino Only 15 Euro!

Via Ghibellina, 144/r 055 24 66 907 Open from Monday to Saturday from 4 p.m.

Wine-tasting on Sundays by appointment (minimum 10 people) www.pozzodivino.it

SEPTEMBER www.florencenews.it

Dine with Dante

N

amed after Dante Alighieri’s The Divine Comedy, a homely, rustic taverna fittingly lies on Via dei Cimatori, only a few meters away from Dante’s house.

The restaurant offers traditional dishes based on medieval recipes.

Some are adapted and revisited for the modern age in a way that one maintains the omnipresent feeling of Florentine history and tradition – so much so that Dante himself could walk in and dine next to you.

Others are as they were centuries ago.

Traditional medieval-style dishes include homemade ribbon pasta with wild boar and mushroom sauce, roast shin of pork with new potatoes and seasonal vegetables, risotto inspired by medieval Tus-

can flavors, and tasting plates of assorted cheeses accompanied with fresh fruit and jams, including the taverna’s specialty hot red pepper jam.

Also serving as a wine bar and pizzeria, the restaurant offers an eclectic selection of wines from its cellar, an outdoor summer terrace, and is fittingly decorated in a medieval style with armour and banners.

OPEN EVERY DAY

Taverna Divina Commedia

12:00 15:00 / 19:00 12-a.m.-12 p.m.- 24:00 RISTORANTE PIZZERIA IL TEATRO Via Ghibellina 128/R 055 2466954 www.ristoranteilteatro.net

Via dei Cimatori, 7r 055 21 53 69

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SEPTEMBER www.florencenews.it

Florence News 23

FOOD&WINE

The ‘Italian’ Dishes that Don’t Actually Exist in Italy poverty-stricken farmers. They practiced a style of cooking called “cucina povera”, which translates to “poor kitchen”.

Italian immigrants were forced to cook with only readily available ingredients and leftovers. They could not afford many of the ingredients used in authentic Italian meals, and this led to changes in the original recipes. In this way, the new Italian-Americans altered, and forever americanized, some of the most famous Italian dishes.

An article recently published in

HEATHER DONNER

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any tourists and foreigners have who travel around Italy, and more misconceptions about authentic Italian food. They are often surprised to find that common American “Italian” dishes such as penne alfredo, garlic bread, spaghetti with meatballs and pepperoni pizza are nowhere to be found on a restaurant menù in Italy. Those tourists, or foreigners, quickly discover that America’s

The Local, the largest English-language news network in Europe, shows how and why some of the very popular American-Italian dishes were created.

And so we discover that penne alfredo originated in America in the

favorite Italian foods are not actually authentic Italian.

These misconceptions on authentic Italian food are often the result of Italian emigration. Over one hundred years ago, Italians came to America and became

1920’s and does not exist in Italy. It was created when an Italian, easy to guess by the name of Alfredo, served a pasta dish with butter and sage. Due to the lack of ingredients, he eventually created ‘penne alfredo’, a dish which uses cream and parsley instead of butter and sage.

Similarly, America’s go-to Italian dish of spaghetti with meatballs is not authentic Italian at all. This dish was likely created by Italian immigrants unable to find quality tomatoes and thus forced to add meat to their sauce to make it thicker as meat was more readily available. Italians do eat, and do love meatballs, but never in their pasta. Meatballs, here in Italy, are traditionally served as a

FRESH AND ORIGINAL SINCE 2004 Tel. (+39) 055 290748 | Via dell’Acqua, 2/R - 50122 Firenze

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main course or starter dish, and are accompanied by vegetables, beans or potatoes. Another popular American-Italian dish, and in many cases just ‘American’, is piz-

za. In America, strange pizza toppings such as ham and pineapples are frequent. That’s fine. But it is a common misconception by Americans that this kind of pizza, or pizzas, are authentic Italian: Such toppings would probably stimulate the irony of an Italian pizza maker.

Then we should also consider that Italian regions differ in culinary specialties. Americans often assume that a popular Italian dish in their country is also popular amongst all of Italy. In reality, a popular American-Italian dish could stem from a small Italian village and may not be popular, at all, in the rest of Italy.

As you travel across Italy, do not be shocked if you do not find your favorite ‘Italian’ dish on the menù. It may be that that dish is typical of another region or another place, or more likely that, in Italy, one of your favorite ‘Italian’ dishes simply does not exist.

DIRECT TO BUS FROM PISA AIRPORT

PISA AIRPORT

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PISA AIRPORT

Timetable may change, check on-line for updates.

Journey time: 70 minutes, valid from December 2017 Free WiFi

www.airportbusexpress.it – pisa@autostradale.it

Comfortable seats

+39 050 6138469

Reserved seats

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SEPTEMBER www.florencenews.it

T San Gimignano Saffron Ravioli A Recipe by Casanova di Pescille For pasta: 450 grams of flour, 150 gr egg yolks, 150 gr tomato concentrate 1 cup of extra virgin olive oil from Tuscany, 1 pinch of salt For the stuffing 500 gr sheep’s cottage cheese, 200 gr fresh spinach bacon It sucks enough, Enough nutmeg, 50 gr of Parmesan cheese For pecorino fondue 200 gr mature pecorino cheese, 200 gr fresh cream 0,20 gr Saffron of San Gimignano Method For pasta: knead flour, egg rises, tomato concentrate, oil and salt in a planetary hook. Once ready to rest for about 30 minutes. With the help of a matematello spread the compound in rectangles.

For filling: thoroughly crush the spinach and combine with the previously privately-owned ricotta of whey, then add all the other ingredients and mix the compound Once the sheet is laid out, form filling pans and close them by taking care to remove the air.

For the fondue: cut the pecorino to cubes and put it in a saucepan with cream and saffron, let it soften for a few hours, then put everything to bake to bath Maria until the cheese is loose. Cook the ravioli in plenty of salted water and season with the cheese fondue www.casanovadipescille.com

Florence News 25

FOOD&WINE

The Seven Most Common Mistakes to Avoid when Making a Pizza

he best way to approach the preparation of a pizza, is to know what mistakes you should avoid. Here is a list of the most common mistakes that people make when preparing their own pizza.

Using the improper flour: This is important because it sets up the foundation of your pizza, the crust. If the wrong flour is used for the dough, it can prevent the crust from rising or make it rubbery. Use an average-strength flour that has 10–12 grams of protein.

Combining the yeast and salt: This must be done in a very specific way.

Mix the two ingredients in two separate bowls with water before putting them together. This prevents the salt from damaging the yeast.

Letting the dough rest: You must set the yeast aside so that it can “rest” for two or three hours after first enabling the yeast with the salt. Then divide it into small sections of 200–300 grams and allow it to sit for six to eight hours to become soft.

Manipulating the dough too much: After the resting session, roll out the dough and begin to form the shape of the pizza. You must also tap and knead the dough to make it firm.

Bake in an inappropriate tin: The perfect pizza requires a lot of heat, especially from underneath. Consequently, a thin aluminum pan

will give you the best results.

Using mozzarella that is too damp: Make sure you drain the mozzarella before you put it on your pizza. The best way to do this is to cut it the night before and set it in a colander in a refrigerator overnight or for a few hours. This method is also effective for buffalo

mozzarella.

Putting on toppings before baking: If you apply the toppings too early, they will burn your pizza. Instead, put the mozzarella and vegetables on right before the pizza is done cooking. Toppings like ham or meat can be added after it has been removed from the oven.

Pizza Man on via Dell’Agnolo explains the proper way: Pizza Man via Dell’Agnolo use only the freshest DOP ingredients, which in Italian stands for Denominazione di Origine Protetta and translates to Protected Designation of Origin products. This label ensures that the ingredients being used are locally sourced and packaged, and do not come from Tuscany or other parts of Italy. Good pizzas must have a golden, crunchy-looking edge, which means there are no remains of humid paste/dough inside. To prepare a proper pizza and to avoid making it ‘humid,’ the dough needs to be left leaven for some 48 hours and the pizza must be cooked in a wood fired oven that has a temperature between 400 and 450 degrees Celsius. Such long leavening permits to prepare a light, easily digestible pizza.

Pizza Man Via dell’Agnolo 105-107/r (near Piazza Santa Croce and the San Pierino Arch)

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SEPTEMBER www.florencenews.it

Florence News 27

FOOD&WINE

How to Embrace Italian Coffee Culture KENDALL DAVIES

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spresso has gone from the “devil’s drink” to the national drink in Italy. That’s history. What would have happened if the Church still combated this drink in Italy like they did in the 16th century? If that was the case, Italy probably wouldn’t have 8 million bags imported yearly and 77% of the population wouldn’t be consuming it at breakfast.Coffee makes up a significant part of Italian food culture. If you don’t know that, you will learn quickly upon arrival.

Think coffee is hard to come by in Italy? Think again. On every street you’ll probably find a dozen cafes.

So don’t fret, you’ll get that coffee fix if you’re in Italy. However, coffee culture is a big adjustment for a foreigner in Italy, especially if you’re trying to fully embrace the culture while being here. You can’t simply order your usual Starbucks or Dunkin’ Donuts, there are rules that must be followed in order to save yourself from - what’s a nice way to say this? - disgrace. Those places haven’t arrived here yet, so wave goodbye to that frappuccino life. Here are nine steps on how to fully embrace coffee culture while living in or visiting Italy.

1. It’s called a bar Keep in mind that a bar is a coffee

shop in Italy, so don’t get that confused. At some bars you can order alcoholic beverages, but keep in mind the main purpose is for coffee. If you’re meeting a friend at the bar, don’t show up ready to party and don’t think they’re crazy for going to the bar multiple times a day!

2. Your options are limited Coffee giants like Starbucks have all these crazy concoctions for drinks, but options are pretty simple in Italy. Here are the main options explained: · A caffè is a tiny cup that’s a shot of espresso. It’s not sweet unless you add sugar, so you’ve been warned.

If you’ve had a rough day, you can also add alcohol to this shot of espresso by asking for a caffè corretto. · A cappuccino in Italy consists of espresso, milk and foam. Unlike an American cappuccino, there’s not sugar diluting the drink. If you’d like it to be sweeter, ask for sugar or add sugar. · A macchiato is a caffè with drops of hot milk and a little foam. · A caffè latte is a shot of espresso with mostly hot milk and some foam. If you’re really needing a pick-me-up, this isn’t the option with the most coffee. · A caffè Americano is more like coffee you’re probably used to.

It’s just your normal cup of coffee

served black.

3. Embrace simplicity Coffee is simple in Italy. Drinks aren’t diluted with unnecessary sugars and sweeteners. This might make you nervous because it’s different, but you’ll be surprised at how quickly you adjust. The coffee is made faster and the drink quality is high.

4. Latte isn’t what you’d think Do not make the mistake of ordering a latte. You will get just a glass of milk considering latte in Italian means milk. Save yourself the embarrassing moment and order a latte with caffè.

5. Milk could ruin all your efforts of blending in Milk is a big factor between embracing Italian coffee culture and not. Italians only drink milk in their coffee before 11 a.m. After 11 a.m., they switch to caffè. Milk is filling, so it’s usually considered a meal in itself when it’s added with coffee in the morning. The Italian culture believes drinking milk in your coffee in the afternoon or with a meal will mess up the digestion process.

6. Not the time to rest those legs Sitting at a bar to drink your coffee could cost you more. A lot of Italians drink their coffee standing, so if you want to blend, do what they do.

7. Iced coffee isn’t as common

Iced coffee isn’t as easy to come by in Italy. If you aren’t specific, you will get a hot caffè Americano with some ice. A shakerato is a cold espresso that’s paired with ice and shaken. A lot of Americans enjoy iced coffee in all seasons, but a shakerato is most common in the heat of summer in Italy.

8. To-go might not meet your expectations Ordering a coffee to-go is possible, but not common in the Italian culture. Most Italians stand at the bar to finish their drink in that moment. If you do get a coffee to-go, it may not be what you’re expecting.

While to-go cups do exist, some bars don’t have the typical cup that makes it easy to drink on the go. You might simply get coffee in a cup with a closed lid on it.

9. Get used to small portions

Don’t think you’ll find a Starbucks venti at any bars in Italy. Portions are smaller, but still extremely effective. You may not think that tiny espresso shot will affect you, but oh it will!

“As an iced-coffee lover, I had to adjust to not having that readily available all the time, but I found a new love for better quality coffee for a more affordable price in Italian coffee culture,” said Rachel O’Donnell, an American study abroad student from Chicago, Illinois living in Florence, Italy for three months.

The Italian coffee culture is different for outsiders, but it is easy to adjust to. While visiting or living in a new country, you should do your best to embrace the culture for a quality experience. Although it can be hard, it can be done!

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28 Florence News

TUSCANY

300 Years of Chianti

A guide to understand Chianti Wine

T

hree hundred years ago, on a Saturday, Cosimo III, Grand Duke of Tuscany, issued a decree for which Chianti wine could only be that produced in the Chianti region between Florence and Siena. By that day, the attempts of rival producers to imitate Chianti and even use its label had already been too many: something had to be done, and that something was creating the first legally enforceable wine appellation. Over the centuries, Tuscany’s land and cli-

mate had combined with methods of production typical only of the region at the base of the quality of the wine. In no place other than Chianti could such a good wine be produced. And for this reason, the Medici gave Chianti the label that our wine bears to this day.

The decree defined the 175.000-acres of what still today is Chianti Classico, the area of wine pilgrims that today produces some 35 million bottles of wine per year, 80% of which exported all over the

world.

Since 1716, Chianti has escalated in power and prestige to become one of the best types of wine produced all over the world. Or perhaps, the best, at least according to most Tuscans still today so proud of their most renowned product.

However, the decree of the Medici was not enough to avoid some sort of brand confusion which producers have never ended battling between geographically restricted wine and the less distinguished simple Chianti made in other parts of Tuscany.

In the early 20th century, when the fame of Chianti wine was increasing year by year and its production territory was no longer able to meet a growing national and foreign demand, wine began to be made outside the Chianti zone delimited in 1716, which was also called “Chianti” or “Chianti-style” wine.

To defend their own wines, in 1924 makers of the original Chianti founded the Consortium for the Protection of Typical Chianti Wine and its Mark of Origin. The trademark chosen was the Black Rooster, historic symbol of the Chianti Military League and depicted by famous painter Giorgio Vasari on the ceiling of the Salone dei Cinquecento at Palazzo Vecchio in Florence.

In 1932, a specific ministerial decree was issued to distinguish the Chianti made in its zone of origin by adding the adjective “Classico.”

Since then, Chianti wine produced outside the geographical area has been called “Chianti” while Chianti Classico is the wine made within

SEPTEMBER www.florencenews.it the original production zone, the one known since 1716 as “Chianti.”

Following is a guide to understand the distinctions between the various Chianti.

Chianti

Bottles simply labeled as Chianti are made from a mix of grapes from several regions in the Chianti region. The main difference with generic Chianti and the rest, is that the minimum percentage of Sangiovese allowed is 75%, with the rules permitting white grapes to be blended in. Adding white grapes to a red wine isn’t as crazy as you might think! The French have been adding Viognier to their Syrah in the Rhone region of France for decades. The reason they do so is to

soften the tannin in the Syrah, and to add what they call “aromatic complexity”. The addition of white grapes into the Sangiovese mix however, is less about romance and

more about cutting costs. As with all Chianti’s, there are some minimum rules set, i.e. the minimum alcohol level in regular Chianti is 11.5%, and grape harvest yields are “restricted” to 4 tons per acre.

Chianti Classico

The Chianti Classico region is central to the region and arguably the most famous. In 1996 it was awarded DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita) status, in an effort to raise its perceived quality. All Italian DOCG wines are actually tasted and analyzed in a lab in order to meet government approval. Kind of like SAT exams for wine. If the wine passes, it will receive an individually numbered governmental seal across the cap or cork.

Chianti Classico bears a black rooster on the neck of the bottle.

This is a conglomeration of Chianti producers whom have setup the Consorzio Chianti Classico, in a bid to improve the quality and reputation of the region.

The minimum percentage of Sangiovese allowed in Chianti Classico is 80%, with only red grapes permitted to make up the rest of the blend.

Producers can of course choose to make their wine up to 100% Sangiovese, but it’s the exception and not the rule. The alcohol content must also be at least 12%, and the wine must spend at least 12 months aging in oak barrels. The Chianti Classico region covers an area of around 100 square miles, and the grape harvest is restricted to no more than 3 tons per acre.

FLORENTINE COUNTRYSIDE WINE TASTING • WINE TOUR • ACCOMODATIONS • RESTAURANT • WEDDINGS Located at the top of a hill overlooking the valley of Greve in Chianti, Vicchiomaggio offers an unforgettable holiday experience in an ancient castle. A great place to go on vacation, take part in a wine tour, have a fairy-tale wedding and organize business meetings.

CASTELLO VICCHIOMAGGIO - VIA VICCHIOMAGGIO, 4 - 50022 | GREVE IN CHIANTI - FIRENZE | 055.854079 | INFO@VICCHIOMAGGIO.IT

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SEPTEMBER www.florencenews.it

Florence News 29

TUSCANY

Chianti Riserva / Classico Riserva

If you guessed that Riserva is Italian for Reserve you would be correct! Riserva on a bottle of Chianti is your first clue that the bottle of Chianti you’re holding, stands head and shoulders above the rest. Riserva is a term that can be applied not just to Chianti, but to plenty of other Italian wines such as Brunello and Barolo. Of course, just to make things difficult, it has various meanings, but Riserva on a Chianti just means that the wine spends a minimum of two years (in oak) and three months (in the bottle) aging. The alcohol content must also be at least 12.5%. Chianti Riserva is also a great candidate for additional bottle aging, depending on the producer and vintage.

Vin Santo

Vin Santo (literally meaning “holy wine”) is a style of Italian wine dessert typical of Tuscany. Vin Santo wines are often made from white grape varieties such as Trebbiano and Malvasia, though Sangiovese may be used to produce a rosè style known as “Occhio di Pernice” or eye of the partridge.

Vin Santo is described as a straw wine since is often produced by drying the freshly harvested grapes on straw mats in a warm and well ventilated area of the house. However several producers dry the grapes by hanging on racks indoors. Though technically a dessert wine, the wines can vary in sweetness levels from bone dry (like a Fino Sherry) to extremely sweet.

SUNDAY 9 9 a.m. GUIDED TOURS|Piazza Trento Nature and history of Greve in Chianti territory 10 a.m. – 8 p.m. OPENING OF ST. STEPHEN’S CHURCH AND EXHIBITION ARTIFACTS OF SACRED ART|Montefioralle

SATURDAY 8 10 a.m. – 8 p.m. OPENING OF ST. STEPHEN’S CHURCH AND EXHIBITION ARTIFACTS OF SACRED ART | Montefioralle 11 a.m. – 8 p.m. WINE TASTING Piazza Matteotti The wine tasting takes place in the main square of the town. It is possible to purchase wine directly at the wineries’ booths.

11 a.m. – 7 p.m. ARTISANS IN TOWN | Via Giuliotti Artcraft market 4 p.m. - 5 p.m. GUIDED WINE TASTING | Town Hall “Greve & Enodistricts: seminar on the different souls of the Black Rooster territory” by Riccardo Margheri, Journalist and sommelier Admission € 15.00 p.p.

Info and reservations a.molletti@ comune.greve-in-chianti.fi.it 4 p.m. GUIDED TOURS|Piazza Trento Guided Tours to churches and castles of Greve in Chianti and

Tour of Artisan’s Laboratory - Free Shuttle 5 p.m. AWARDING EMERITUS CITIZENS | Meeting garden Certificates of “Citizen Emeritus” 5 p.m. -8 p.m. MUSIC WITH “THE LARGE STREET BAND” | Piazza Matteotti 5 p.m. DANCE EXHIBITION Piazzetta delle Cantine Dance School Show 5:30 p.m. - 6:30 p.m. GUIDED WINE TASTING|Town Hall “Chianti Classico Gran Selezione: focus on the territory” by Riccardo Margheri, Journalist and sommelier Admission € 15.00 p.p.

Info and reservations a.molletti@ comune.greve-in-chianti.fi.it 9 p.m. PROCESSION Santa Corce Church Diotto’s procession 9:30 p.m. - 1 a.m. SPAZIO MUSICA: CHIANTI CLASSICO DJ SHOW | Swimming Pool’s Park ‘80 music and look party

11 a.m. - 9 p.m. WINE TASTING Piazza Matteotti The wine tasting takes place in the main square of the town. It is possible to purchase wine directly at the wineries’ booths.

4 p.m. GUIDED TOURS Piazza Trento Guided Tours to churches and castles of Greve in Chianti and Tour of Artisan’s Laboratory - Free Shuttle 4:30 p.m. SBANDIERATORI DI FIVIZZANO|Piazza Matteotti Flag Waving parade 5 p.m. “COGLI L’ATTIMO” CONCORSO FOTOGRAFICO | Meeting garden Awards of the photo contest 6 p.m. SUPER BINGO | Piazza Matteotti

by Santa Croce parish 21:15 p.m. NEDO & THE BELLO’S - CONCERT | Piazza Angelo Vassallo Italian Pop music Concert

WINEMAKER FOR A DAY Winemaker for a Day is a wine tasting course in which you also will be able to create your own, unique, signature vintage by blending up to 5 different grapes while working alongside our award-winning winemaker. Your signature wine will be shipped home for your future enjoyment.

EDUCATIONAL VINEYARD Spend a few hours in the vineyard with an agronomist learning how grape has to be cultivated.

HIKing...wine...food...@monterinaldi Hike in the breathtaking landscape of Chianti before enjoying a home made Tuscan lunch while sipping the real Chianti Classico

OFFROAD ADVENTURE IN CHIANTI Discover the Chianti hills, vineyards and lakes on a land-lover.

Then enjoy a homemade lunch paired with Chianti Classico More info on: www.monterinaldi.it

A CORNER OF PARADISE BETWEEN VOLTERRA AND S. GIMIGNANO Restaurant Zafferano by Casanova di Pescille

THE LARGEST ENOTECA IN TUSCANY

THE FARMHOUSE • BED AND BREAKFAST • RESTAURANT Loc. Pescille, 53037 San Gimignano (Siena) 0577 941902 • pescille@casanovadipescille.com www.casanovadipescille.com

WINE & TYPICAL TUSCAN PRODUCTS • INTERNATIONAL SHIPPING

Piazza Matteotti 18, Greve in Chianti (FI) 055853631 • chianticlassicoshop@gmail.com

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SEPTEMBER www.florencenews.it

Discover Colle Val d’Elsa

‘The Italian Way of St. James’ Via Francigena, among ancient routes and modern “pilgrims”

O

ver 25,000 people, half of whom are Italian, walked at least a part of the Via Francigena last year. Compared to the number of people who walked that stretch in previous years, this is encouraging — an improvement due to the increasing number of bed & breakfasts along the route and to the efforts to promote the route made by the region of Tuscany who has been trying to transform it in a sort of Italian version of the Spanish Way of St. James — but that could, and should, be improved in the future. It was this the conclusion of Italian newspaper Il Fatto Quotidiano that recently published a reportage on the route. According to Il Fatto, the potential of the route are huge and, if well exploited, could make it the Italian version of the St. James Way. First documented as the Lombard Way and then the Frankish Route in 725, according to the travel records of Willibald, Bishop of Eichstätt in Bavaria, the route was named Via Francigena in 876, given its crossing with French territories (Francia, in Italian) at the Abbey of San Salvatore al Monte Amiata in Tuscany and was used

throughout the Middle Ages by pilgrims headed to Rome from the North, particularly from France.

Nearly 400 kilometers of the Via pass through Tuscany, accounting in part for the development of a number of the region’s historic settlements and trade and religious centers.

Today, tourists and history buffs can enjoy the cultural mecca that is Via Francigena by following one or all of the 15 Tuscan legs, beginning with the journey from Passo della Cisa to Pontremoli and ending with the route from Radicofani to Acquapendente.

The Via passes through San Gimignano and its Fortress of Montestaffoli. Originally a castle for the Lombard Astolfo and later a Dominican Convent, the fortress took on a defensive role in the 14th century while under the threat of attack from Siena.

To book a trip to the Via Francigena: www.spreadyourwings.it

I

ts name means “Hill of Elsa Valley”, where “Elsa” is the name of the river which crosses it.

Today, Colle di Val d’Elsa is internationally renowned for the production of crystal glassware and art (15% of world production), largely produced in the industrial lower town.

The area was settled by man from at least the 4th millennium BC, but first mentions of the city are from the 9th century AD. In 1269 it was the seat of a famous battle during the wars of Guelphs and Ghibellines and in 1479 it was besieged

by Neapolitan troops. From the 14th century it was a possession of Florence and the Grand Duchy of Tuscany until the unification of Italy in 1860.

In the 20th century it became

an important industrial center.

During World War II it was bombed

by Allied aircraft.

The oldest part of the town is the “colle alta”, the higher part, with a well preserved medieval center. The town developed along the river from the 11th century onwards, building an artificial canal to power various industrial activities, such as wheat mills and paper factories. The city is also famous as the birthplace of sculptor and architect Arnolfo di Cambio.

Deluxe rooms with private garden and panoramic view in Colle Val d’Elsa from €35 For info contact 349-4651605

To book a trip to Colle Val d’Elsa: www.spreadyourwings.it

Wine Tour Chianti Classico (Every day, transportation included)

FREE WINE TASTINGS IN COLLE VAL D’ELSA

ENOTECA IL SALOTTO Wine tastings

Traditional Tuscan first courses and cold cuts

ENOTECA IL SALOTTO

DOCG WINES • OIL • GRAPPA • CANTUCCI DI PRATO TYPICAL TUSCAN CAKES

Via Gracco del Secco, 31, 53034 - Colle di Val d’Elsa (SI) • www.enotecailsalotto.com 0577 926983 0577926983 • www.enotecailsalotto.com • info@enotecailsalotto.com

From 50 euro TRUFFLE HUNTING • WINE TOUR IN A CASTLE WALKING TOUR VIA FRANCIGENA ART AND FOOD IN VOLTERRA Via Vecchia, 3 - 53037 San Gimignano (Siena) 0577 940568 - 3393817394 www.spreadyourwings.it

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SEPTEMBER www.florencenews.it

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Meet Vernaccia...

ante Aligheri, Giovanni Boccaccio, Pope Martin IV, Lorenzo the Magnificent, Michelangelo, just to name a few of the greats that praised the most famous wine produced in San Gimignano. A delicious white wine, that is even referenced in Dante’s legendary “Divine Comedy.”

First mentioned in tax documents from 1276, Vernaccia is not only one of Italy’s most esteemed wines, but also one of its oldest. The wine boasts a bold straw-yellow color and a flavor that delicately combines floral and fruity. Perfectly suited for fish and white meats in particular, Vernaccia can be enjoyed even more when combined with complimenting cuisine.

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TUSCANY

A Game to Understand Chianti Wine Discover the wine sensory experience

www.palagetto.it

Oldest Wine Found

hat would be the oldest Italian wine was discovered last month as researchers led by a team from the University of South Florida found residue from nearly 6,000 years ago inside a Copper Age jar in a cave near Agrigento, Sicily. Researchers published their findings in the prestigious Microchemical Journal.

Chemical analysis conducted on ancient pottery will likely predate the commencement of winemaking in Italy. The finding, which provides a new perspective on the economy of that ancient society, is the earliest discovery of wine

Florence News 31

residue in the prehistory of the Italian peninsula. Previously, in fact, it was believed wine growing and wine production developed in Italy in the Middle Bronze Age (1300-1100 B.C.) as attested by the retrieval of seeds.

Lead author Davide Tanasi, PhD, University of South Florida in Tampa with his team discovered that the residue contained tartaric acid and sodium salt, which occurs naturally in grapes and in the winemaking process. Tanasi and his colleagues are now trying to establish whether the wine was red or white.

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hat is the difference between tasting and sensory analysis?

The answer is simple: the tasting is a personal judgment, the sensory analysis an objective judgment which usually lacks fun and charm and is not enjoyable for wine lovers, tired of listening to the usual refrain “toasted oak whispers with a semisweet peach ending.”

A new format of wine education was recently born in Greve in Chianti, the town capital of Chianti wine, thanks to a project called Wine Lovers Academy started by Marco Baldini, a Chianti native with an international experience in the wine business.

Among the wine tasting experiences that the academy offers, the most innovative and engaging is the

sensory analysis developed as a table game called Wine Lovers Game.

This experience is a blind-guided tasting of two of the best Tuscan wines made with different grape types and coming from different areas.

The sensory analysis is structured as a table game in which you can play putting your placeholder on the box you consider correct.

During the tasting game experience, participants learn how to describe these wines through a “When,” “Where” and “Whom” system in which a complex wine bouquet with spices and fruits is described as a “late summer evening” and the genuine taste of an organic wine is pictured as a “cozy countryside village.”

Ready to play the wine game? If you happen to be in Greve in Chianti a stop to the Wine Lovers Academy is a must.

Wine Lovers Academy Piazza delle Cantine 18 Greve in Chianti Open every day 11 a.m. – 7:30 p.m. wineloversacademy.com

Panzano Wine Festival Every year, on the third weekend of September, the vintners of Panzano meet in the village square to showcase their wines as part of the Vino al Vino wine festival.

You will have the chance to sample the different Panzano wines, chat with the winemakers, and listen to jazz music.

The dates are: Thursday, Sept. 13 4:30 p.m.– 8 p.m.

Friday, Sept. 14 12 p.m.– 7:30 p.m.

Saturday, Sept. 15 11 a.m. – 8 p.m.

Sunday, Sept. 16 11 a.m. – 7:30 p.m.

Live Jazz Music Saturday & Sunday from 5:30-7:30 p.m.

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Man Ray: Wonderful Visions T

he exhibit, on display at the San Gimignano Galleria d’Arte Moderna e Contemporanea until Oct. 7, presents over 100 photos in a chronological order as part of unitary path that intends to give importance to Man Ray’s overall look regardless of the genre of photos.

Born Emmanuel Rudnitzky, Man Ray was the son of Jewish immigrants from Russia who moved to Brooklyn as a child. After finishing high school in 1908, he followed his passion for art by studying with Robert Henri at the Ferrer Center and frequenting Alfred Stieglitz’s Gallery 291. Stieglitz’s photographs influenced Ray considerably, as Ray utilized a similar style and photographed images that provided an unvarnished look at the subject. The Armory Show of 1913 featuring the works of artists such as Pablo Picasso, Wassily Kandinsky and Marcel Duchamp also influenced this extraordinary artist. In this phase, which coincided with his soon-to-end marriage with Belgian poet Adon Lacroix and a growing relationship with fellow artist Marcel Duchamp, Ray’s work evolved from a Cubism to Abstract art. He soon became a leading figure in Dadaism in New York. The movement which, taking its name from the French nickname for a rocking horse, challenged existing notions of art and literature while

SEPTEMBER www.florencenews.it

Galleria Gagliardi Presents Gianluca Resi

at the same time encouraging spontaneity.

In 1999, ARTnews magazine named Ray one of the 25 most influential artists of the 20th century.

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MAN RAY: Wonderful Visions Galleria di Arte Moderna e Contemporanea Via Folgore 11, San Gimignano Price: Euro 9, reduced 6 Until Oct. 26

alleria Gagliardi is presenting a solo exhibition by Danilo Martinis beginning on July 21.

Born in 1976 in Milan, Martinis studied architecture and design in Como. In september 2010 he began a career as a professional artist that brought him to showcase his works in Milan, Florence, Miami, Moscow, Capri, Monaco, Amsterdam, Dubai and Mumbai. His subjects present a perfect anatomy, every position being absolutely elegant.

The Galleria Gagliardi was established in 1991, in a 400-square-meter space once used as a garage and farm machinery store. Today the gallery bears absolutely no resemblance to the original building apart from a section of the floor made up of oak boards, covering a hole which once enabled repairs to the underside of cars and machin-

A Journey Through Human Cruelty ery in the absence of a ramp. This work of art was created by the previous owner, Dino Conforti, and has been left in his memory. Since 1991, the exhibition area of the gallery has been extended and the gallery has now become a cultural reference for the promotion and sale of contemporary art. Every work is chosen directly from the studios of artists who constantly experiment new solutions through their research, renewing their approach and skills. The gallery exhibits ceramic, bronze and marble sculptures; conceptual, abstract and figurative paintings as well as works in steel, iron and wood by Italian and international artists. It is located in San Gimignano on Via San Giovanni 57 and is open every day until 7:30 p.m. The website of the gallery is galleriagagliardi.com.

WINE TASTINGS IN SAN GIMIGNANO

Via Racciano 10 - 53037 San Gimignano 334/6399484 • 0577/943090 www.palagetto.it

The Torture and Death Penalty Museum displays more than 100 tools designed to torture and kill.

Some of these tools are extremely rare, dating to the sixteenth, seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. They include the notorious ‘iron maiden,’ the guillotine, rack, torture chair and the chastity belt.

Also on display are lesser-known sophisticated devices, such as the ‘heretic’s fork,’ the ‘noisemaker’s fife,’ the ‘Spanish spider’, and flaying instruments.

Via San Giovanni, 82 & 125 San Gimignano Open daily: 10 a.m.-8 p.m.

0577-940526, 055-940151 Tickets: Full €10 Concessions: €7; Groups: €5 www.museodellatortura.it

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SEPTEMBER www.florencenews.it

Florence News 33

TUSCANY

Gelato Classes with a World Champion

On Horseback in Tuscany

ON THE ROAD

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ormer Gelato World Champion, Sergio Dondoli, offers gelato classes for adults and kids alike in his hometown San Gimignano, in the very heart of Tuscany. Gelato was invented in this region thanks to the famous Florentine architect Bernardo Buontalenti, who in 1500 amazed the Medici family with gelato made from fruit and zabaione before Caterina de’ Medici, who was married to King Henry II, and introduced this precious Florentine dessert to the Royal French Court. From here, gelato spread across all of Europe.

Dondoli opened his famous Gelateria di Piazza in San Gimignano in 1992. In 2011, his Gelateria was the only Gelato-shop mentioned by Lonely Planet among the ten “Best Gourmet Places in the World.”

In his career as a gelato-maker Dondoli has earned many prestigious awards, including the Master of Art & Craft Living National Treasure Award in 2016. Since last year, he offered his knowledge and creative energy to whoever, from all over the world, is willing to learn the secrets of preparing real Gelato.

Each class consists of an introduction to Gelato History and to its ingredients. It follows the preparation of a Fiordilatte Gelato made with raw milk and seasonal fruit.

The best part of these classes is the end, when groups can eat the gelato they prepared.

"Great Wine Adventure way more than a simple tasting" Jeffry M.

Via del Castello 15 San Gimignano www.dondoligelatoclass.com +39 393 5448969

his tour offered by Florence Country Life is an adventure through the lush vineyards, native woods, olive groves and rolling hills of Chianti, with a collection of breathtaking and unforgettable views in the most wonderful and romantic way: on horseback.

No prior experience is needed.

Before the ride, you will be given a lesson by a trained guide to become better acquainted with your horse. After the ride, you will enjoy a Tuscan meal washed down with Chianti wine and an oil tasting.

If you do not want to ride a horse, you can still come and enjoy the tour with a 20% discount. So, while your friends go on the horse ride

you can enjoy snacks, wine and a nice walk around a traditional Tuscan farm.

If you have never horse-whispered before, then let horses whisper to you.

Florence Country Life From € 100

(€ 80 for students) www.florencecountrylife.com info@florencecountrylife.com Tel.: +39.366.4738711 TRANSPORTATION INCLUDED

"A must for any wine enthusiast visitor to Chianti" Aussies B.

Are you looking for an enjoyable way to discover Tuscany's wine & food culture?

WINE ON TAP IN SANTO SPIRITO

SPECIALTIES Typical Tuscan Grill Handmade Pasta

Via C. Battisti 9 50022 Greve in Chianti 0558544802 www.enoristorantegallonero.it

Come to discover our Tasting Experience Starting from € 10,00 Wine Lovers Academy - Piazza delle Cantine, 18 Greve in Chianti Monday to Sunday 11:00 - 19:30 www.wineloversacademy.com - tel 055 2698076

Bring your bottles and fill them directly from the barrels of Il Santo Vino, starting at less than €1.50. Patrons can choose from a gamut of Italian wines alongside selected local specialty and organic products

Opening hours: Tuesday to Sunday: 10 a.m.–2 p.m.; 5–9 p.m.

Borgo Tegolaio, 46/r Tel. 055 53 87 122 , 345 90 93 425 www.ilsantovino.it Facebook: Il Santo Vino

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Discover the secrets of Vin Santo

1/2 kilo fresh asparagus, cut into 1 inch pieces 2 scallions, chopped 2 T olive oil 3 cups arborio rice 1/2 cup Vernaccia di San Gimignano 4 cups vegetable broth 3 T butter 1/2 cup grated cheese (Parmesan or Aged Pecorino)

Ristorante Il Pino Via Cellolese 6 San Gimignano 057 79 40 415 www.ristoranteilpino.it

www.florencenews.it

Sweet Wine of the Gods

Asparagus and Truffle

1. Place olive oil in pan with scallions and asparagus. Sauté for 2 minutes.

2. Add rice, wine, and half of the water. Lower heat and let simmer.

3. As water evaporates, keep adding more, stirring frequently to achieve a creamy texture.

4. Rice should be cooked until tender yet al dente. Add butter and cheese, stirring to distribute evenly.

5. Sprinkle generously with grated truffle.

SEPTEMBER

Photo credit: flickr user McPig

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n ancient and fabled wine, Vin Santo is one of the most luxurious, albeit unknown, dessert wines on the market today. While somewhat rare and hard to find in the United States, a bottle of Vin Santo is most certainly an elegant and essential addition to any collection of Italian digestivi.

What perhaps makes Vin Santo most intriguing, besides its sensational flavor and its many variations, is the wine’s historical roots that date as far back as the Middle Ages. The name “Vin Santo” itself derives from Tuscan folklore passed along from generation to generation and most likely can be attributed to the use of sweet wine during masses in Catholic and Greek Orthodox faiths. The most famous legend surrounding Vin

Wine Tasting

Santo can be traced to 1348 when the Plague was rampantly devastating the whole of Europe, including Italy. According to this legend, a friar from the province of Siena began distributing Vin Santo to the sick to alleviate their pain. Out of this everyday miracle, the name Vin Santo was purportedly born.

According to another variation, the legendary beginnings of the wine are thought to have come from the Ecumenical Council of Florence in 1349. After sampling a Florentine wine by the name of vin pretto (or “pure wine”) at the council dinner, Basilios Bessarion, the founder of the Greek Eastern Orthodox church, commented that the wine was similar to wine from Xanthos. Locals mistook the Cardinal’s comment to mean “san-

to,” and thus began referring to the wine as Vin Santo, or “holy wine.”

The vinification process for Vin Santo adheres to vini appassiti, meaning that the wine is made from naturally dried grapes with a concentrated sugar content due to the evaporation of water. Although Tuscany is the predominant producer of Vin Santo, variations of the wine can be found throughout Italy. Many regions even dry the grapes on paglia (hay), to give the wine yet another layer of complexity. In 1990 the Italian D.P.R. granted Vin Santo produced in Colli dell’Etruria Centrale that coveted D.O.C. status. Accordingly, this Tuscan variety is considered to be the king of all Vin Santo wines produced in Italy. For a Vin Santo to be compliant with the D.O.C. standard, it must contain at least 50% of Tuscan Trebbiano, up to 5% of Malvasia from Chianti and a combination of 10 to 45% of Pinot Bianco or Grigio, Chardonnay and Sauvignon. The sugar content of the grapes must reach at least 28% while the prolonged drying of the grapes must extend to at least December 20 of a given year.

All Vin Santo wines generally exude an amber to hay coloration and are intense and aromatic on the nose. Vin Santo wines generally include caramel-like flavors with hints of honey, raisin and nut. The wine lends itself well to baked goods that are crispy and toasted, such as biscotti, and with an alcohol content of 16% it makes for a delightful accompaniment to desserts or enjoyed simply as a digestivo.

Pici All’aglione

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typical pasta of the Sienese countryside, the pici are shaped like spaghetti and go well with any sauce. Recommended are the pici all’aglione, a tomato and garlic typical of the Siena area.

The sauce starts with bringing oil in a pan to a low heat. Add garlic and chilli pepper. When the garlic begins to brown, it is time to add the peeled and cubed tomatoes. Add a splash of vinegar and a sprinkle of salt. Cook the sauce until the tomatoes have broken down and the consistency is creamy. The last step is to drain the pasta and add it to the saucepan.

Recommended Wine: Chardonnay, Rosso di Montalcino or Montepulciano

Bar dell’Orso

Via Cassia Nord, 23 Monteriggioni (Siena) 0577 305074

THE BAR DELL’ORSO IS RENOWNED FOR ITS CURED MEATS, CHEESES AND PRESERVES IN OIL

Wine Shop Bistrot

Via Vittorio Veneto 112/a 50022 Greve in Chianti Tel. +39 055 8546209 Mail: info@enotecadigreve.it Web: www.enotecadigreve.it

Via Cassia Nord, 23, 53035 Monteriggioni (Siena) 0577 305074

Il Supermercato... da Gustare e deGustare HOME DELIVERY SERVICE AVAILABLE Sapori & Dintorni is the new way to do the shopping: in the heart of Florence there is a place where Food, Culture and Territory meet.

Get in and discover the Big Supermarket to test and taste!

Inside you will find many typical products of the Italian food tradition.

Buy your favorite product and taste it within the tasting area.

FIND YOUR LOCAL BIG SUPERMARKET IN THE CITY CENTER

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Piazza della Signoria

Piazza di Santa Cicilia

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Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore

Battistero di San Giovanni

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Piazza della Repubblica

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Sapori V&ia Dintorni LG ori Largo Fratelli .Alinari, 6/7

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THE BIG SUPERMARKETS ARE OPEN: • Monday - Saturday: from 08.30 am to 9.00 pm • Sunday: from 09.30 am to 9.00 pm

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TRAVEL

SEPTEMBER www.florencenews.it

Fun in the Sun: Visiting the Amalfi Coast

Croatia’s Natural Beauty Unveiled

side town of Positano. Positano is made up of picturesque multi-colored buildings that cling to the cliff above the black sand and pebbled beaches.

The Smart Trip tour includes transportation to the aforementioned areas, 3 nights of accommodation, breakfast on Friday, Saturday, and Sunday along with dinner on Friday and Saturday night. Visit smarttrip.it for more details and bookings for a memorable time at the Amalfi Coast.

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nown for its picturesque sights and serene beach atmosphere that attracts celebrities, weekend jetsetters and college students across the world, the Amalfi Coast is an Italian paradise. It’s located in the region of Campania, home to a variety of renowned destinations like Naples, Pompeii and the Island of Capri, particularly attractive in the months of March and April because of the cool weather, making a trip to Capri and the seaside towns of Positano and Sorrento ideal.

The almighty Mt. Vesuvius greets Smart Trip travelers as it looms over the countryside, accompa-

nied by fantastic views of beautiful, traditional cities built into the sloping cliffs.

The first day of the trip includes breakfast and a ferry ride to the Island of Capri, one of the most spectacular Italian islands. There, visitors will journey to mystical places, to the home of many ancient myths, such as the site of the infamous sirens from Homer’s Odyssey, and to the world famous Blue Grotto: an accessible sea cave with sunlight that pierces the clear water, bringing out brilliant hues of blue and green.

Travelers will then visit the sea-

Via dei Pandolfini, 26r • 347 381 8294

5 Best Views in Amalfi Mount Solaro in Capri View from Positano beach looking at all the pastel color buildings Top of Mount Vesuvius overlooking Napoli Blue Grotto Pompeii

roatia’s natural beauty makes it one of the best destinations for outdoor activities like relaxing on the beach and admiring cultural wonders. Student travel company Smart Trip offers a convenient way to reach the country and an itinerary that covers must-see locations and exciting activities. The tour focuses on the medieval port town of Split located on Croatia’s pristine Dalmatian coast.

On the first day, Smart Trip organizes optional water activities such as white water rafting or canyoning on the Cetina River. Other adventures lay ahead, like spending the day laying on one of Split’s beaches, touring the Split’s historic city center, visiting the Diocletian Palace, renting a bike and riding up

Marjan Hill, or taking a day trip to the local surrounding towns, such as Omiš or the Krka Waterfalls.

On the last day the group takes a trip to Krka, where a few hours are dedicated to swimming and exploring the magnificent waterfalls of the national park before heading back to Florence.

Croatia’s Five Gems Krka National park waterfalls Centa River Diocletian’s Palace Old Town Split Split’s Beaches and Coves

F

SEPTEMBER www.florencenews.it

A Guide to Florence Parks and Gardens

lorence News is distributed F throughout Florence in all key reference points for the English-

speaking community, including hotels and hostels, universities and language schools, libraries, tourist information points, restaurants and cafes. Free copy.

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF: Lorenzo Picchi EDITOR: Grace Gelep GR APHIC & L AYOUT DESIGN: Narine Nalbandyan, Ekaterina Chebotareva CONTRIBUTORS: Christine De Melo, Migle Vaisnoraite, John Hood

Giardino delle Rose (Rose Garden) A green terrace with different sort of roses from all around world below Piazzale Michelangelo, overlooking the historic center of the city.

Transportation: Take bus line 12 or 13 from S.M.N station Address: Viale Giuseppe Poggi 2 (near Piazza Michelangelo) Opening hours: Every day from 9 a.m. until sunset.station.

REGISTERED AT THE TRIBUNAL OF FLORENCE N. 6008, ON 9/12/2015.

PUBLISHER: IAF PRINT: Rotostampa SRL, Florence

Florence News 37

CITY GUIDE stop ‘Ghirlandaio’.

Address: Via Micheli Information: 055 27 57 402

from train station S.Maria Novella to bus stop Gioia Address: Via Federigo Stibbert, 26 Info: www.museostibbert.it/en or call 055 47 55 20

Cascine Park

Giardino Torrigiani (Torrigiani Garden)

viburnum, hydrangeas, glycines and rose trees of various species.

Full ticket: €10 Address: Costa San Giorgio, 2 Information: 055 200 66 206

Giardino dell’Orticoltura Built in 1879 by Giacomo Roster for the Tuscan Horticultural Society.

Transportation: Take bus line 2 from Santa Maria Novella station.

Address: Via Vittorio Emanuele II, 4 Information: 055 20 06 62 37 (Tue afternoon or Fri morning)

A daytime hotspot for outdoor activities, much loved by Florentines.

Every Tuesday the park hosts the city’s largest open-air market, with a very good offers on local specialties such as cheese, vegetables and honey.

Transportation: Take the tram line from the Santa Maria Novella station to the Cascine stop

INTERN WITH US

Florence News is currently seeking outgoing and motivated candidates for its internship program. Interns will be exposed to all facets of weekly production, including news writing, photography, layout, advertising, public relations, circulation and graphic arts.

Students currently studying art history, communications, journalism, marketing, advertising, public relations or graphic design are encouraged to apply.

Bardini Gardens On the hills near Piazza Michelangelo is one of Florence’s best kept secrets. Visitors will see camellias,

CONTACT US/ SUBMIT CONTENT Tel: + 39 380 90 44 142 Email: fnewev@gmail.com

Botanical Gardens Giardino dei Semplici Established by Cosimo dei Medici in 1545, this is one of the oldest parks in the world. It is currently maintained by the University of Florence and boasts a collection of carnivorous plants.

Transportation: Take bus line 14 from Santa Maria Novella to bus

Frederick Stibbert Villa Transformed from a simple Italian park to a romantic English garden

by Giuseppe Poggi, this outdoor space features temples, rock caves, fountains and a mysterious Egyptian temple. Entrance to the garden is free; closed only on Thursdays.

Transportation: Take bus line 4

DROP OFF LAUNDRY SERVICE

LAVANDERIA MANFREDI Piazza Mercato Centrale 36R (Near the train station) www.lavanderiamanfredi.it 055 291 488 DOWNLOAD OUR FREE APP

LIVE MUSIC AND SPORTS Via Faenza 27/r • 055 274 1571

The widest privately owned garden in the city boundaries within Europe. The land was inherited

by Marquis Pietro Torrigiani in the early 19 th century. He transformed the park into the ‘english style’ as fashion of the time. The garden still known as a botanical garden with great wealth of plant and tree from all around the world.

It can be visited if one of the owners will accompany the visitors during their tours.

Transportation: Take the bus line 11 from Piazza San Marco to bus stop ‘Campuccio’.

Adress:Via dei Serragli 144 Information: www.giardinotorrigiani.it or call 055-224527

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38 Florence News

CITY GUIDE

SEPTEMBER www.florencenews.it

MUSEUMS & MONUMENTS Cappelle Medicee The Old Sacristy, the New Sacristy, with architecture and sculpture by Michelangelo, and the Chapel of the Princes, decorated with inlaid marble and hard stones.

P.zza Madonna degli Aldobrandini, 6 Tel: +39.055.294883 Hours: 8.15-17.00 Closed: 2nd, 4th Sunday; 1st, 2nd, 5th Monday of month

Galleria degli Uffizi Open since 1591, the Uffizi hosts one of the most important collections of art of all time, classical sculpture and 13th to 18th century paintings Loggiato degli Uffizi Tel: +39.005.294883 Hours: 8.15-18.50 Closed: Mondays

Palazzo Vecchio Quartieri Monumentali Residence of the Priors, the Signoria and the Medici.

Paintings, sculpture, furniture and hangings.

Piazza della Signoria Tel: +39.005.2768224 Hours: Sept: 9-24 - Thursdays 9-14 Oct: 9-19 - Thursdays 9-14.

Galleria dell’Accademia Michelangelo’s masterpieces: the David and the Slaves. Sculpture, paintings and casts by various artists.

Via Ricasoli, 60 Tel: +39.005.294883 Hours: 8.15-18.50 Closed: Mondays

Museo del Bargello Residence of the Captain of the People, of Justice and ancient prison. Masterpieces of painting and sculpture, plus minor arts. Frescoes by the school of Giotto in the Chapel.

Via del Proconsolo, 4 Tel: +39.005.294883 Hours: 8.15-17.00.

Closed: 2nd, 4th Sunday; 1st, 3rd, 5th Monday of month.

Battistero di San Giovanni Romanesque temple dedicated to St. John the Baptist, patron saint of the city. Outside, the doors by Ghiberti.

Piazza San Giovanni Tel: +39.055.2302885 Hours: 11.15-18.30 - Sundays, 1st Saturday of month 8.30-13.30.

Campanile di Giotto Famous bell tower, a masterpiece of Gothic architecture by Giotto, built between 1334 and 1359.

Piazza del Duomo Tel: +39.055.2302885 Hours: 8.30-18.50.

Closed: Easter.

Galleria d’Arte Moderna Paintings and sculptures related to the art in Tuscany from the late 18th century to the period between the two world wars. Temporary shows of contemporary art.

Piazza Pitti Tel: +39.055 294883 Hours: 8.15-18.50.

Closed: Mondays.Fri, Sat, Sun 9.00 18.00. Thur 9.00 - 14.00.

Cupola di Brunelleschi The masterpiece of Brunelleschi.

Frescoes of the Last Judgement

by Federico Zuccari. Suggestive itinerary to the top of the dome with breathtaking views over the city.

Piazza del Duomo Tel: +39.005.2302885 Hours: 8.30-18.20 - Saturdays 8.3017.00pm.

Closed: Sundays and Easter day.

Cooking Classes

Cartoleria Lory Srl P.za Frescobaldi 8r 50125 055-213246 Shop.lory.net www.digital-fineart.it www.lorycad.net

In Tavola aims to spread the rich food and wine culinary traditions of Italy and the Tuscany region through an incredible variety of dishes and recipes to all interested in learning the secrets behind the traditional Italian kitchen.

With this intent to promote their knowledge, In Tavola organizes several opportunities for professionals and beginners to participate in cooking and baking lessons with the guidance of professional Chefs in an individual or group setting.

The Palatine Gallery occupies the whole left wing of the first floor of the Pitti Palace, which was the residence of the Medici grand-dukes. In 1828, when Tuscany came under the rule of the Lorraine, the most important paintings in the Palace, most of which had been collected by the Medici.

Piazza Pitti Tel: +39.055.294883 Hours: 8.15-18.50 Closed: Mondays

Giardino Bardini These beautiful gardens, recently restored, contain many rare plants and specialised areas, such as Italian and English gardens, as well as a fine Baroque staircase, statues, fountains, a small amphitheater and panoramic views.

Entrances: Via dei Bardi, 1 r and Boboli Gardens.

Info and reservations: Tel: +39.055.294883 Hours: 8.15-18.30 Closed: 1st and last Monday of month.

Tattoo Piercing Via degli alfani 32/r Firenze +39 344 20 48 393 +39 342 75 47 804 Fb: Blood Brotherhood

Via dei Velluti, 18/20r 055 217672 www.intavola.org

Museo delle Porcellane

Galleria Palatina e Appartamenti Reali

#bloodbhtattoo

Collections of porcelain from reigning royal families.

Palazziana del Cavaliere, Boboli Gardens, Piazza Pitti, 1 Tel: +39.055.294883 Hours:8.15-18.30 Closed: 1st and last Monday of month

Museo degli Argenti Summer apartments of the Grand Dukes. It contains vases in hard stone that belonged to Lorenzo the Magnificent, and the jewellery that belonged to the Electress Palatine.

Piazza Pitti Tel: +39.055.294883 Hours: 8.15-18.30 Closed: 1st and last Monday of month.

Museo Novecento Italian art of the 20th century, in a journey backwards from the Nineties to the first decades of the century.

Piazza Santa Maria Novella Tel: +39.055 286132 Hours: Oct to March- Mon, Tue, Wed, Fri, Sat, Sun 9.00 - 18.00. Thur 9.00 14.00.

THE RESTAURANT OF THE FLORENTINES Located on Via Ghibellina near Santa Croce, Da Que’ Ganzi offers a fresh seafood and meat menu for both lunch and dinner. Tuscan specialties include ribollita and authentic Florentine steak, and all of the cakes and sweets are homemade. A special weekday lunch menu for less than €10 makes the restaurant affordable for anyone.

Special dishes: BAKED SEA BASS & TUSCAN STEAK Mon. to Sun.: 12–2:30 p.m. & 7–11:30 p.m.

Closed on Tuesdays.

Via Ghibellina, 70/r •055 22 60 010 www.daqueiganzi.it • info@daqueiganzi.it

F

SEPTEMBER www.florencenews.it

Florence News 39

CITY GUIDE

A Florentine Gift V

isconti is an authentic Florentine company which manufactures pens, watches, and other accessories. The company was founded October 20, 1988 by Luigi Poli and Dante Del Vecchio, who shared a passion for high quality pens. The luxury of the work shows in the uniqueness of each piece and the special manufacturing process.

If you are looking for a memorable souvenir stop by Pinart, located at Via de’ Guicciardini, 2r, 50125 Firenze, located near Ponte Vecchio.

PINART Uffizi

42€

TOURIST INFORMATION SOS

i

EMERGENCIES

Emergency Phone Number: 113 Ambulance Service: 118 Carabinieri (National Military Police): 112 Environmental Emergency: 1515 Fire Department: 115

+ HEALTH SERVICES Piazza Duomo: 055 212221 Open Pharmacies: 800 420707 Veterinary Services: 055 7223683 Acca Poison Center: 055 7947819 demia

Via dei Boni 5r 334 7007714 www.leftluggageflorence.com

Via dei Boni 5r 334 7007714 leftluggageflorence.com

Uffizi Academy Gallery

SKIP THE LINE BOOK NOW! booking@keysofflorence.com

ON THE ROAD Roadside Assistance for Foreigners: 800 116800 Obstruction, theft, and towed vehicles: 055 4224142

AIRPORTS

39€ son

LAW ENFORCEMENT

BEST OF FLORENCE Premium Tourist Services

Via Cavour, 1r - 055 290833 Vespucci Airport - 055 315874 Piazza del Duomo - 055 215440 Piazza Stazione, 4 - 055 212245

from per per

from erson per p

Railway Police: 055 211012 Florence Municipal Police: Uffizi - Accademia - City Tour Priority entrance tickets 055 3283333 Small Groups or Private Ones Local National Police Force: SKIP THE LINE 055 49771 BOOK NOW! booking@keysofflorence.com Fire and Rescue Service: +39 324 075 6714 24901 More 055 info and tours:

A Vespucci, Firenze Peretola: www.aeroporto.firenze.it/en 055 3061300 Lost and found: 055 3061302 G. Galilei, Pisa: www.pisa-airport.com 050 849300 Lost and found: 050 849400

www.keysofflorence.com

BUSES Ataf: 6 a.m.-9 p.m. : 800424500 Li-nea: Bus info, 055 7355742 FBUSITALIA: SITA NORD: www.fsbusitalia. it, 800 373760

TOURIST INFO POINTS

TAXI

TAXIS

055 4242 Night Taxi only for Women Service from 9 p.m. to 2 a.m.: 334-66 22 550 (WhatsApp or SMS)

Wellness Shu-Xin Body Massage

1 hour € 50,00 40 minutes € 40,00 30 minutes € 30,00 20 minutes € 25,00

LUNCH&DINNER | BEER&BURGERS | LIVE MUSIC&APERITIVO Via Verdi 47R-49R | 055 199 91 333 | www.offthehook.it

PLANTAR REFLEXOLOGY 1 hour € 40,00 45 minutes € 30,00

Via Chiara 18R | 377 826 1920

VALIGERIA GAZZARRINI Via Porta Rossa, 71-73R - Firenze, Italy Tel. +39 055 212747 www.valigeriagazzarrini.com

DRIVE ME