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Urs Fischer: In Florence

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wo years after Jeff Koons, Piazza Signoria is again hosting the contemporary art event In Florence. The guest will be Urs Fischer, one of the leading contemporary artists in the world, who will present a large metal sculpture about 12 metres tall called Big Clay. The sculpture will be on display from Sept. 22 to Jan 21. “Big Clay is only seemingly monumental. It is a monument to the simplicity and the primordial nature of the human gesture as its moulds a shape. Closer inspection of the work’s aluminium surface reveals the artist’s fingerprints. The sculpture is an enlargement of small pieces of clay modelled by the artist in his workshop. It is a monument to dexterity and to the simplest, most humdrum creative action,” said curator of the exhibit

Francesco Bonomi. Urs Fischer rose to fame in 2011 at the 50th edition of the Venice Biennale, where he melted a full-size wax copy of Giambologna’s Rape of the Sabine Woman, one of the great masterpieces of Renaissance sculpture on display in the Loggia dei Lanzi since 1583. Fischer is now ‘returning’ to Florence with a new project bound to trigger strong reactions and a heated debate on the language of contemporary art, the redefinition of taste, the development of techniques, and the concept of beauty. The sculpture on display in Piazza Signoria aims at creating a contrast between neoclassicism and the shapeless, between ancient and modern, between the “timeless” images of Bandinelli, Cellini and Giambologna, and Fischer’s

SEPTEMBER ISSUE www.florencenews.it ‘shapeless’ images. “In recent years, we have accepted the challenge of international exhibitions in our city by the world’s great artists, creating short-circuits and experimental dialogues between the classic and the contemporary, between different languages and styles or techniques and materials, with the aim of stimulating people’s curiosity and of revitalising the way they look at things,” said Florence Mayor Dario Nardella. The objective is to continue the trend inaugurated two years ago. “We must challenge the prejudice and the ideology of convenience, we must enjoy neo-Renaissance artist Urs Fischer’s works with astonishment and surprise. This is a major opportunity for us to continue to pursue with courage and determination the path on which we set out with the Biennale In-

ternazionale dell’Antiquariato two years ago. Florence at this juncture has opened up to contemporary art; now a vibrant workshop, it refuses simply to be a fine showcase, an urban museum. We want to be leading players in today’s life so as to avoid downgrading the golden Renaissance to the status of a mere fossil from the past,” said Nardella. Fischer will also be placing two artworks on the Arengario of Palazzo Vecchio, between the reproductions of Michelangelo’s David and Donatello’s Judith and Holofernes, in the furrow of the exhibitions staged by Jeff Koons (2015) and Jan Fabre (2016). The Two Figures will be those of Francesco Bonami and Fabrizio Moretti, seen by the artist as two citizens of the world whose roots lie in the local territory and its culture, two portraits that become abstract bodies as the wax is consumed. Fischer’s choice of the two figures was based on a study of their features conducted in the meetings to prepare the project.

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Art on the Move? T

wo of the most important Florentine sculptures, Michelangelo’s David and Gianbologna’s Rape of the Sabine Women, prompted a great deal of debate this summer as, although for different reasons, were proposed to be moved respectively from the

Accademia Museum and the Loggia dei Lanzi. Discussion about a new possible destination for Michelangelo’s David to reduce traffic congestion in Florence began in 2008 and was resumed last July by the President of the Florence Hotel Association, Giancarlo Carniani. Although quite skeptical about the decision ever being made, Carniani said that it would be a great change for Florence if a new crystal museum on the Louvre Pyramid style was built. “If we did it ten years ago, today we would not be here talking about the problem of tourist flux,” said Carniani. According to Carniani, there would be many advantages of the

combined effects of a new museum to showcase Michelangelo’s David with a mandatory reservation for the Uffizi and the Accademia to be made simultaneously to that of the hotel or the apartment and an extension of the museums’ opening hours. “Tourists would have more time to visit other parts of the city; we also proposed that the tourists who spends more than one day in Florence should be treated with more care and receive incentives regardless of the quality of their accommodation; for example, they may get a discount in tourist buses and some facilitation for the entrance to the museums,” said Carniani. Another measure that will be debated in the near future is that of the possible introduction of a tourist police, as it already exists in some European cities, to ease tourist’s movement around the city and prevent degradation. The other sculpture on which there was talking of a possible move is Gianbologna’s Rape of the Sabine Women. Air pollution has deteriorated the state of the marble of the statue, and Uffizi director Eike Schmidt has insisted upon moving it inside the Uffizi Gallery to better preserve it, as already his predecessor Antonio Natali had done. Moreover, the sculpture has more than once been the target of vandalism by tourists. “We would lie if we said that the conditions of this sculpture since

2000 have not worsened, because of the worsening of air pollution; even the heat of this summer has not helped, and it is difficult to not think that the situation will get worse; for this reason, we are thinking of making a copy of it and move the original inside,” said Schmidt. However, such measures, in a city like Florence, seem destined to encounter a great deal of opposition, regardless of how good their intentions are.

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San Frediano on Top of the World

an Frediano has been crowned the “coolest” neighborhood in the world by prestigious travel experts Lonely Planet. Thanks to its mix of craft workshops, its new modern, European and minimalist trendy clubs, loved by young Florentine and international alike, the Florence neighborhood has beaten the ‘Seongsu-dong’ of Seoul and ‘The Triangle’ of London, respectively second and third. San Frediano was thus tributed as a pillar of Florentine tradition, a place where people still warm-

Uffizi Live

he Uffizi Square is hosting outdoor shows until Sept. 26. Shows are free, the sits available are 285, and the back of the stage is turned towards the Arno. On Sept. 5, a contemporary dance by the Compagnia Simona Bucci inspired by female representations in artworks; Tre Noccioli del Duecento, on Sept. 12, dance theatre specimens of the childhood of Giotto, Cimabue, and Giotto di Buoninsegna by Ad-Ar-Te; Lucida Follia, on Sept. 19, an experimental urban dance by Mystes inspired by Artemisia Gentileschi’s Judith; and Fauna, on Sept. 26, a concert for insects (sounds of invisible features in Botticelli’s Primavera) by Gli Impresari & Giacomo Mercuriali.

ly greet each other in the streets and customers are welcomed with smiles in the shops, although residents said that many small shops recently closed down and were replaced by restaurants. Lonely Planet’s top ten neighborhoods were Borgo San Frediano, Florence; Seongsu-dong, Seoul; The Triangle, Lisbon; Vesterbro, Copenhagen; Business Bay, Dubai; Damansara Heights, Kuala Lumpur; Sunset Park, New York City; Botafogo, Rio de Janeiro; Frelard, Seattle; and Tooting, London.

Schmidt to Leave

ike Schmidt will quit as director of the Uffizi Galleries in Florence at the end of his mandate in 2019, when he will replace Sabine Haan as head of Vienna’s Kunsthistorisches Museum (KHM). Schmidt was named the first non-Italian to lead the Uffizi, as he was one of the 20 new “super directors” appointed in 2015 to modernize Italy’s top museums and heritage sites. So far, his innovations at the Uffizi have included renovating key galleries, mounting exhibitions dedicated to female artists, and changing admissions fees to encourage “quality tourism.”

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Principal Exhibits • Leonardo da Vinci’s Magic Cosmos: The Adoration of the Magi Restored Uffizi, Galleria delle Statue e delle Pitture March 28– Sept. 24 Leonardo da Vinci’s Adoration of the Magi is returning to the Uffizi

then stored in the palace of the Benci family in Florence before entering the Medici family’s collections. Its restoration did not just resolve a number of conservation issues, but also restored its unexpected colors and full readability. Along with this, the exhibit hostsFilippino Lippi’s version of the Adoration made in 1496 after the friars had commissioned him to complete the unfinished work by Leonardo, creating a fascinating interplay that highlights the differences between the two masters, a consequence of the political and cultural changes that had taken place in Florence in just over a decade. • A Gift for the Grand Duke: silver plates for the Feast of St. John Palazzo Pitti, Tesoro dei Granduchi June 24 – Nov. 5

after 6-year restoration. Commissioned from Leonardo by the Austin Friars in 1481 for their church of San Donato a Scopeto, the painting, the largest of Leonardo’s surviving panel paintings (246 x 243 cm), was left unfinished after a lengthy preliminary study as Leonardo left for Milan in 1482. It was

Each year, from 1680 and for the following 58 years, Cosimo III and his successor, his son Gian Gastone, received a precious silver plate decorated with stories illustrating the dynastic glory of their house. The memory of the St. John plates would have been lost with the Medici family’s extinction if the Ginori manufactory had not made plaster casts of the silver originals between 1746 and 1748, so as to reproduce them in porcelain. The exhibit also showcases numerous preparatory drawings by Roman artists such as Carlo Maratta and Ciro Ferri, currently held in a variety of Italian and foreign museums and collections, along with recent porcelain and silver reproductions.

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• The Uffizi and its Territory: Designs by Luca Giordano and Taddeo Mazzi for two Large Monastic Complexes Sept. 5 – Oct. 15 The display of two sketches by Luca Giordano (Naples 1634–1705) and Taddeo Mazzi (Palagnedra, Canton Ticino, second half of the 17th century – Florence, first half of the 18th century), recently acquired by the Gallerie degli Uffizi, becomes a reflexion on an aspect of 17th and 18th century collecting that was an expression of the taste for the rapid, dabbed painting that allowed the artist to express himself. Giordano’s preparatory drawing for the decoration of the dome in the Corsini Chapel in the church of the Carmine in Florence and Mazzi’s preparatory drawing for a canvas for the Chapel of the Blessed Sacrament in the Santuario di Montesenario provide new elements to enrich the tight fabric of relations linking the Uffizi to its surrounding territory. • The King of Spain’s Grandchildren: Anton Raphael Mengs’ Portrait of Federico and Maria Anna of Lorraine in the Pitti Palace Palazzo Pitti, Sala delle Nicchie Sept. 19 – Jan. 7, 2018 The exhibition presents the Gallerie degli Uffizi’s recent acquisition of a painting by Anton Raphael Mengs (Aussig, 1728 – Rome, 1779) portraying Federico and Maria Anna, the young children of Pietro Leo-

poldo, dressed in contemporary costume and depicted inside Palazzo Pitti. Begun in the early 1770s while the artist was in Florence, the painting was never finished as Mengs kept it with him, eventually leaving it to his daughter, and later to be rediscovered by a descendant of the artist. The painting is displayed alongside a version of the portrait of Pietro Leopoldo’s young children that Mengs painted on the same occasion for their maternal grandfather King Charles III of Spain, depicting the young princes in Spanish court costume (Madrid, Prado), and a portrait of their brother Francesco, the future Emperor of Austria. • The Japanese Renaissance: Nature in Screen Painting from the 15th to the 17th Centuries

To mark the 150th anniversary of Friendship between Italy and Japan

Uffizi, Aula Magliabechiana Sept. 26 – Jan. 7, 2018

This first major exhibition in Europe of painted screens from museums, temples and the Japanese Cultural Affairs Agency inaugurates the program of activities devised to mark the 150th anniversary of friendship between Italy and Japan, and is organised in conjunction with the Japanese Cultural Affairs Agency and with the Embassy of Japan in Italy.Through a selection of about 40 large paintings of landscapes and natural scenes in the traditional sliding screen format to illustrate the golden age of Japanese art from the Muromachi to the Edo era (15th to 17th centuries), and tracks the emergence of the two great trends that marked Japanese painting, reaffirming the aesthetic ideals that we still associate with Japan today: on the one hand, evocative monochrome painting made up of voids and of bare, rapid lines, close to the Chinese tradition and linked with the Zen philosophy which the warrior class embraced as early as the Kamakura period and which adorned the temples and residences of the Samurai; on the other hand, the indigenous style of painting with gold backgrounds and flat fields of colour, more explicit and easier to grasp, that was perfectly suited to adorn the large residential spaces of the bourgeois class and the palaces of the aristocracy.

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NEWS secular works. Among the painters on display are Michelangelo, Pontormo, Rosso Fiorentino, Giorgio Vasari, Jacopo Zucchi, Giovanni Stradano, Girolamo Macchietti, Mirabello Cavalori and Santi di Tito, while sculptors include Giambologna, Bartolomeo Ammannati and Vincenzo Danti. A network of synergies with local

and international museums and institutions, as well as a major restoration campaign, devised and involved 15 masterpieces that played a key role in this exhibition. Among the works restored for the occasion were the Capponi Chapel in Santa Felicita, ten large altarpieces, and a sculpture by Michelangelo which had long needed major restoration.

Giambologna (Douai 1529-Florence 1608) Morgan le Fay 1572, marble, 99 x 45 x 68 cm. Private collection, Courtesy of Patricia Wengraf Ltd.

Bronzino (Agnolo di Cosimo; Florence 1503-72) Deposition of Christ c. 1543-5, oil on panel, 268 x 173 cm. Besançon, Musée des Beaux-Arts et d’Archéologie, inv. D.799. 1.29

The Cinquecento in Florence From Michelangelo and Pontormo to Giambologna

alazzo Strozzi is hosting The Cinquecento in Florence from Sept. 22 to Jan. 21. The exhibition, the final of a trilogy began in 2010 with Bronzino and continued in 2014 with Pontormo and Rosso Fiorentino, showcases Florentine artworks of the second half of the 16th century by artists such as Michelangelo, Andrea del Sarto, Rosso Fiorentino, Pontormo, Bronzino, Giorgio Vasari, Santi di Tito and Giambologna. The Cinquecento in Florence explores an era of outstanding cultural and intellectual talent in which the prevalent debate pitted the supporters of the “modern manner” against those of the Counter-Reformation. This contrast between sacred and profane resumed in an era marked by the

Council of Trent and in Florence by the personality of Francesco I de’ Medici, one of the greatest figures in the history of courtly patronage of the arts in Europe. The Cinquecento in Florence

showcases over 70 paintings and sculptures that capture the cultural climate of those years through a dialogue, which is presented as part of a layout both chronological and thematic, involving sacred and

The exhibit puts together masterpieces, many of which restored for the occasion, by artists such as Michelangelo, Andrea del Sarto, Rosso Fiorentino, Bronzino, Giorgio Vasari, Santi di Tito, and Giambologna.

Il Cinquecento a Firenze. From Michelangelo, Pontormo and Giambologna Palazzo Strozzi Sept. 22, 2017- Jan. 21, 2018 Open everyday from 10 a.m. to 8 p.m., Thursday from 10 a.m. to 11 p.m. Entrance allowed up until one hour before closing time. Ticket prices: Euro 12 full price, reduced Euro 9,50, schools 4 Euro. For more info go to www.palazzostrozzi.org

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‘In Random Order’ Helidon Xhixha on display

alike, yet both tend to engage in a lengthy exploration of Xhixha’s work, generally taking out their smartphones to capture their own image together with the images being reflected by the steel,” said Eike Schmidt, director of the Uffizi Gallery. “Knowledge and the Infinite,” standing in the square before Palazzo Pitti, distorts and refines the austere character of the city’s aesthetic, alluding to the harmonious beauty of the golden ratio, often found among nature, and harking back to the fundamental concepts of order, balance and regularity; “Giotto’s ‘O,’” which refers to the theory of perfection pursued by painter Giotto di Bondone, was notably chosen to inaugurate the renewed Piazza San Firenze. “Working in conjunction with the

SEPTEMBER ISSUE www.florencenews.it Gallerie degli Uffizi, we have decided to extend the celebrated Albanian artist’s one-man show into Piazza San Firenze in an effort to build a dialogue between contemporary art and the square’s spectacular baroque and Renaissance architecture,” said mayor of Florence Dario Nardella. Xhixha’s recent success at the Venice Biennale in 2015 and the 2016 London Design Biennale, along with many prestigious awards, have given him a position of prestige in the panorama of international art. His works are among the most recognizable and sought-after in the realm of contemporary sculpture, an achievement attributable to their natural depth and their ability to speak universally, despite cultural and intellectual differences.

he solo exhibition by Helidon Xhixha In Random Order is taking place at the entrance of Palazzo Pitti, in the Boboli Gardens, and the San Firenze square until Oct. 29. The exhibit explores the dichotomous concepts of chaos and order, as well as the distinction between art and nature. Xhixha has created eight of the 15 sculptures specifically for this exhibition, while also showcasing works created between 2010 and 2016. The surfaces of his sculptures glisten and reflect like mirrors, simultaneously contrasting and

complementing the surrounding cityscape, investigating intellectual and aesthetic themes derived from the 16th and 17th centuries -- themes that also concerned the Medici family and the artists of the Renaissance. “Xhixha’s sculptures, however, are not solely the product of complex theoretical reasoning; rather, they offer an immediate, gut-level experience to the observer regardless of his or her age or intellectual formation. It is indeed rare for sculpture to succeed in drawing the attention of children and adults

Giardino di Boboli - Piazza San Firenze, Firenze June 26- Oct. 29 Admission Full price € 10.00; concessions € 5.00 for EU citizens aged 18 to 25; free for children of any nationality under the age of 18, disabled visitors and one career, journalists, academic staff and students of architecture, cultural heritage conservation and the educational sciences, or pursuing the archaeology or art history pathway in a degree course in the humanities and philosophy, or a degree or equivalent course in any European Union member country Opening hours 8.15 a.m. to 7.30 p.m.

Equilibrio 2017 | mirror polished stainless steel | Giardino di Boboli

In Random Order

Educational services for schools Guided tours for school groups by appointment only € 3.00 per student. Info and reservations: Firenze Musei (+39) 055.294883 Guided tours Information and reservations:(+39) 055.290383 firenzemusei@operalaboratori.com Conoscenza 2017 | mirror polished stainless steel | Piazza Pitti

www.gallerieuffizimostre.it/ helidonxhixha

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Unknown Pleasures Displayed

“I Do Not Dare, I Dare Not To Be”

Bardini Museum hosts Glenn Brown

Il Ponte Presents Luca Patella

he contemporary art Gallery Il Ponte is presenting the exhibition I Do Not Dare, I Dare Not To Be by Luca Maria Patella. An internationally renowned research artist, Patella is known for his complex semantic relations and techniques ranging from painting to sculpture-objects, installations, photographs, films and video, graphic works, as well as books and writing. The exhibit runs from Sept. 22 to Nov. 10. Two Physiognomical Vases made from the profiles of the famous portrait of the Dukes of Urbino by Piero della Francesca at the Uffizi Gallery open the showcase. On the walls of second room are works that provided the basis, for some decades now, for Patella’s eclectic research which ranges from art, science, psychoanalysis and language studies. To the end of the

room on the second floor, a Campanaro strikes on the hour and every quarter of an hour almost as to mark the descent to the lower floor, where, from a small window, it appears a dawn-pink child’s bedroom encircled by the words “New Life: naked except for the cloth draped around her, slightly visceral”. Back to the half-dark basement are some of Patella’s “film-works” including Terra Animata (1965-67), recently defined as “a key-work in the history of Land-art” at the MOCA in Los Angeles. The lounge area hosts a large selection of photographic works from the early 1960s that document the artist’s experimentation and his invention of printing and recording techniques (for example, his pioneer use of a fish-eye lens infrared photography and color printing of black-and-white negatives. Born in Rome in 1934, since 1964, Patella has exhibited all over the world, including seven times at the Venice Art Biennale; the V Paris Biennale, the San Marino Biennale, 1967, and has showcased his works in some of the most important contemporary art galleries and museums all over the world. The Galleria Il Ponte is located on Via di Mezzo 42, in the Sant’Ambrogio area.

he exhibition Unknown Pleasures is running at the Museo Bardini from June 10 to Oct. 25, showcasing a spectrum of Glenn Brown’s work. Brown will be installing over twenty pieces including paintings, drawings and sculptures, some of which have been made for this exhibition and shown for the first time. Mining art history and popular culture, Brown has created an artistic language that transcends time and pictorial conventions. His mannerist impulses stem from a desire to breathe new life into the extremities of historical form. Through reference, appropriation and investigation, he presents a contemporary reading of new and remembered images.

Borrowed figures and landscapes are subjected to a thoughtful and extended process of development in which they gradually transform into compelling, exuberant entities. Mixing Renaissance art, Impressionism and Surrealism, Brown creates a space where the abstract and the visceral, the rational and irrational, the beautiful and grotesque, churn in a dizzying amalgamation of reference and form. Placing Brown’s work alongside the renowned collection of Stefano Bardini will allow visitors to admire a leading contemporary artist as well as works of the past. Located on Via Dei Renai 37 in the Oltrarno area of Florence, the Bardini Museum houses several medieval and Renaissance masterpieces such as Charity by Tino da Camaino, the Madonna of the Cordai by Donatello, the monumental paintings of the Crucifix by Bernardo Daddi, St. Michael the Archangel by Pollaiolo, Atlas by Guercino, and series of drawings by Tiepolo and Piazzetta. Born in Hexham, England, Glenn Brown has been featured in numerous group and solo museum exhibitions. Recent solo shows include Glenn Brown,Tate Liverpool, England (2009, traveled to Fondazione Sandretto Re Rebaudengo, Italy; and Museum Ludwig, Bu-

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dapest, through 2010); Conversation Piece V, Frans Hals Museum, The Netherlands (2013–14); Glenn Brown, Des Moines Art Center, Iowa (2016, traveled to Contemporary Arts Center, Cinncinatti, through 2017); Glenn Brown/Vincent Van Gogh, Fondation Vincent Van Gogh Arles, France (2016); and most recently Glenn Brown – Rembrandt; Afterlife, Rembrandt House Museum, Amsterdam (2017).

Unknown Pleasures Glenn Brown

Stefano Bardini Museum June 10-Oct. 26

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So Poor, but not a Slave

Research sheds light on Leonardo’s Mom

research on Leonardo Da Vinci’s mom conducted by Martin Kemp, a professor of art history at Oxford University, seems to have demonstrated that she was neither a peasant nor a slave from North Africa or from some eastern country as most scholars believed, but a poor girl knocked up by an ambitious lawyer. Until now, the only thing that was known about her was the name, Caterina. Kemp has provided the missing piece, giving her a surname, and therefore an identity: Leonardo’s mom was Caterina di Meo Lippi. Caterina was a common name for slaves at that time. “What had become progressively attractive in the public domain was that Caterina was a slave, an African slave, or even an Oriental slave. Caterina was a name that tends to be given to slaves,” said Kemp according to whom Leonardo’s mom was a local girl from a poor family who was only 15-years-old when, while living with her grandmother in a decrepit farmhouse near Vinci, she was seduced by a local lawyer. “Tuscany set up a very early system of wealth tax and rates on the value of a property. So, this is an absolutely fantastic record because everyone had to submit returns … Of course, everyone pleads poverty. They all say ‘this house is falling down’, but inspectors went round.

In the case of Vinci, they verified that Caterina’s father, who seems to be pretty useless, had a rickety house which wasn’t lived in and they couldn’t tax him ... He had disappeared and then apparently died young. So, Caterina’s was a real sob story,” said Kemp. Kemp, who wrote his book Mona Lisa: The People and the Painting together with Giuseppe Pallanti, an economist and art researcher author of the famous book Mona Lisa Revealed, has mostly based his research on previously studied documents. The story of Leonardo’s mom is quite interesting, and quite convincing seems to be the evidence supporting it. The lawyer was Ser Piero da Vinci. Piero worked in Florence, but in July 1451 he took a break and came to his countryside house “exactly the right weeks for her impregnation: nice, summer evening probably in the fields – and that was it,” Kemp said. However, things got complicated, as Piero was supposed to marry another woman. Thus, to keep everything quiet and avoid ruining his wedding, he provided Caterina a dowry: not much, but enough for her to quickly marry a local farmer “from her own stratum of society” by the name of Antonio Piero Buti, who gave her one more son and four daughters.

Just a few miles away, Leonardo grew up with his grandfather, contemplating that nature around him that was destined to remain forever the most important inspiration for his genius. For his part Piero, now married to the woman he was promised to, did not forget about Caterina, although he probably did so with his son Leonardo, as he reappears in documents studied by Kemp to help her in conducting a minor legal transaction for her husband. Besides old documents, the two scholars also found new ones which allowed them to discover that Lisa Del Giocondo’s husband, Francesco, was not a Florentine gentleman as previously thought, but a businessman whose trade ranged from sugar, leather, money, property, to include even female slaves. Following a trawl through 15th-century financial documents held within the archives of Vinci and Florence, Kemp and Pallanti also questioned Leonardo’s place of birth, the famous house in Anchiano that has become a favorite destination for tourists. According to the two scholars, Leonardo was more likely born in his grandfather’s house. Quite interesting are the reasons that Kemp suggests have been an obstacle to reaching the truth for so many years although such truth emerged from documents already studied. “It never fails to amaze you that the obvious moves haven’t been made. Archives are not tackled because, in current academia, you need to

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Exhibiting Models of Leonardo’s Designs

he exhibit presents working models of Leonardo’s designs that the Niccolai family has been reconstructing since 1995, when Carlo Niccolai dedicated himself to working full-time with the desire to realise Leonardo’s legacy. His passion founded the Niccolai Collection, the largest private collection of Leonardo models in the world, comprised of more than 300 working models created by himself and his sons, together with a team of artisans, engineers, historians and architects. The models have been displayed at more than 100 international exhibitions throughout Europe and as far afield as Australia, New Zea-

land, China, the US, Brazil, Saudi Arabia and Finland. The exhibit also displays copies of six codices that reveal the inner workings of this great man’s mind. The Niccolai family has been widely praised for their ongoing devotion in realising the vast inheritance that Leonardo left to science.

Le Macchine di Leonardo da Vinci Via Cavour 21 www.macchinedileonardo.com

10 Florence News

HISTORY

September Dome S

eptember 8, 1296, was the day when the foundation of the new Florence Cathedral was laid. Founded in the early 5th century, the old church, Santa Reparata, was crumbling with age, and since Pisa and Siena, which at that time were – and perhaps still today are, although to a lesser extent – two rival cities, had built new ones, Florence too needed a new one, if only to reassert its power. This was the reason why, one day in 1294, someone from the Florence Council knocked the door of Arnolfo di Cambio, a sculptor, architect and urbanist born in Colle Val D’Elsa (today in the province of Siena), to inform him that he had been assigned the task of the project for the new city’s Cathedral. Less than two years later construction had already begun, Arnolfo being destined to go down in history not just for Santa Maria del Fiore but also for Santa Croce, Santa Maria Novella, and Palazzo Vecchio. The first stone was laid on Sept. 9, 1296. Arnolfo died 14 years after that first stone had been laid down in his presence, that of Cardinal Valeriana, the papal legate sent to Florence to give the benediction of the Pope to the Cathedral – the first time this ever happened in history – and all those Florentines who had come by to see history passing in front of their eyes. Who knows if Arnolfo would be happy of how his project was

realized if he could ever see his Dome now. Although maintained in concept, the original plan was changed. The Cathedral is much bigger than it was supposed to be, and not exactly as his designer had pictured it. In fact, there was no bell tower in the original project. After between 1310 and 1340 works had slowed down, the project gained a new impetus when the relics of Saint Zenobius were discovered in 1330 in what remained of the old Church. One year later, in

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Talenti, as Pisano meanwhile had died. Talenti finished the bell tower and enlarged the overall project to include the apse and the side chapels. After he died, a series of other architects followed – Giovanni di Lapo Ghini, Alberto Arnoldi, Neri di Fioravante, and Andrea Orcagna: by 1375, the old church was pulled down, by 1380 the nave was finished, and by 1418 only the

The city, eternally divided in two factions – we need only think to the Guelfs and the Ghibellins – had to face another one: Lorenzo or Filippo? Yesterday, like today, jealousy was frequent among artists, no holds barred. However, Brunelleschi had quite an advantage, as he was supported by no less than Cosimo de Medici. Ghiberti, instead, had won a competition for a pair

dome remained incomplete. In 1418, the Arte della Lana complicated things for the better. The guild in fact announced an architectural design competition to erect Neri’s dome. The two main competitors were two master goldsmiths who were also two bitter rivals: Lorenzo Ghiberti and Filippo Brunelleschi.

of bronze doors for the Baptistery in 1401. Who won? Filippo, Lorenzo had to be content with a role as coadjutor. However, the city tried to broaden peace, as salary was the same for both: and in one respect, it even resulted in losses on both ends. None of them, in fact, were awarded the announced prize of 200 flo-

The two main competitors were two master goldsmiths who were also two bitter rivals: Lorenzo Ghiberti and Filippo Brunelleschi. 1331, the guild of wool merchants took over patronage for the construction and assigned Giotto the job of continuing Arnolfo’s project. Although Giotto’s contribution was essential – we owe him the magnificent tower next to the Dome – he died just seven years later and was replaced by Andrea Pisano, who worked until 1348 when works had to be interrupted because of Black Death. As works resumed in 1349, the guild of wool then hired Francesco

rins. But was this truce rather than peace? For soon it became clear that the choice of the winner was right. One day, in fact, Brunelleschi became ill. For real? Or was he just pretending to, to demonstrate that he was the only one who could do it? Who knows. Fact is that, for a while, the project remained in the hands of Ghiberti, who soon had to admit that the whole thing was too much for him. As the admission came, Brunelleschi was now, all of a sudden, healed and got the entire situation under control. Wasn’t he the only one who could complete the Dome in Arnolfo’s spirit? On the first day of 1436, which was March 25 according to the Florentine calendar, the cathedral was consecrated by Pope Eugene IV. Question: How long did it take to build the Cathedral? 140 years. Sorry: 591. It was only in 1887, in fact, that the polychrome marble façade was completed with the design of Emilio De Fabris. Why? You know, here in Florence we take it easy but, at least, we do things… perhaps with a good amount of quality. During its long history, Santa Maria del Fiore has been the seat of the Florence Council, heard the preachings of Girolamo Savonarola, witnessed Lorenzo the Magnificent jumping her benches to escape death while seeing out of the corner of his eye his brother Giuliano bleeding to death after being stabbed by the Pazzis (which, not randomly, in the Italian language means “crazy”), and always remained the same as Arnolfo wanted. Maybe.

CONTEMPORARY • CLASSIC • TIMELESS INTERIOR DESIGN &LIFESTYLE PIAZZA SCARLATTI, 2R • 055 28 33 98 • INFO@BLUKNIGHT.IT • WWW.BLUKNIGHT.IT

12 Florence News

CHIANTI

300 Years of Chianti

A guide to understand Chianti Wine WINEMAKER FOR A DAY Winemaker for a Day is a wine tasting course in which you also will be able to create your own, unique, signature vintage by blending up to 5 different grapes while working alongside our award-winning winemaker. Your signature wine will be shipped home for your future enjoyment.

EDUCATIONAL VINEYARD Spend a few hours in the vineyard with an agronomist learning how grape has to be cultivated. HIKing...wine...food...@monterinaldi Hike in the breathtaking landscape of Chianti before enjoying a home made Tuscan lunch while sipping the real Chianti Classico

OFFROAD ADVENTURE IN CHIANTI Discover the Chianti hills, vineyards and lakes on a land-lover. Then enjoy a homemade lunch paired with Chianti Classico More info on: www.monterinaldi.it

hree hundred years ago, on a Saturday, Cosimo III, Grand Duke of Tuscany, issued a decree for which Chianti wine could only be that produced in the Chianti region between Florence and Siena. By that day, the attempts of rival producers to imitate Chianti and even use its label had already been too many: something had to be done, and that something was creating the first legally enforceable wine appellation. Over the centuries, Tuscany’s land and cli-

mate had combined with methods of production typical only of the region at the base of the quality of the wine. In no place other than Chianti could such a good wine be produced. And for this reason, the Medici gave Chianti the label that our wine bears to this day. The decree defined the 175.000-acres of what still today is Chianti Classico, the area of wine pilgrims that today produces some 35 million bottles of wine per year, 80% of which exported all over the

SEPTEMBER ISSUE www.florencenews.it world. Since 1716, Chianti has escalated in power and prestige to become one of the best types of wine produced all over the world. Or perhaps, the best, at least according to most Tuscans still today so proud of their most renowned product. However, the decree of the Medici was not enough to avoid some sort of brand confusion which producers have never ended battling between geographically restricted wine and the less distinguished simple Chianti made in other parts of Tuscany. In the early 20th century, when the fame of Chianti wine was increasing year by year and its production territory was no longer able to meet a growing national and foreign demand, wine began to be made outside the Chianti zone delimited in 1716, which was also called “Chianti” or “Chianti-style” wine. To defend their own wines, in 1924 makers of the original Chianti founded the Consortium for the Protection of Typical Chianti Wine and its Mark of Origin. The trademark chosen was the Black Rooster, historic symbol of the Chianti Military League and depicted by famous painter Giorgio Vasari on the ceiling of the Salone dei Cinquecento at Palazzo Vecchio in Florence. In 1932, a specific ministerial decree was issued to distinguish the Chianti made in its zone of origin by adding the adjective “Classico.” Since then, Chianti wine produced outside the geographical area has been called “Chianti” while Chianti Classico is the wine made within

the original production zone, the one known since 1716 as “Chianti.” Following is a guide to understand the distinctions between the various Chianti.

Chianti

Bottles simply labeled as Chianti are made from a mix of grapes from several regions in the Chianti region. The main difference with generic Chianti and the rest, is that the minimum percentage of Sangiovese allowed is 75%, with the rules permitting white grapes to be blended in. Adding white grapes to a red wine isn’t as crazy as you might think! The French have been adding Viognier to their Syrah in the Rhone region of France for decades. The reason they do so is to

soften the tannin in the Syrah, and to add what they call “aromatic complexity”. The addition of white grapes into the Sangiovese mix however, is less about romance and

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SEPTEMBER ISSUE www.florencenews.it more about cutting costs. As with all Chianti’s, there are some minimum rules set, i.e. the minimum alcohol level in regular Chianti is 11.5%, and grape harvest yields are “restricted” to 4 tons per acre.

Chianti Classico

The Chianti Classico region is central to the region and arguably the most famous. In 1996 it was awarded DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita) status, in an effort to raise its perceived quality. All Italian DOCG wines are actually tasted and analyzed in a lab in order to meet government approval. Kind of like SAT exams for wine. If the wine passes, it will receive an individually numbered governmental seal across the cap or cork. Chianti Classico bears a black rooster on the neck of the bottle. This is a conglomeration of Chianti producers whom have setup the Consorzio Chianti Classico, in a bid to improve the quality and reputation of the region. The minimum percentage of Sangiovese allowed in Chianti Classico is 80%, with only red grapes permitted to make up the rest of the blend. Producers can of course choose to make their wine up to 100% Sangiovese, but it’s the exception and not the rule. The alcohol content must also be at least 12%, and the wine must spend at least 12 months aging in oak barrels. The Chianti Classico region covers an area of around 100 square miles, and the grape harvest is restricted to no more than 3 tons per acre.

Chianti Riserva / Classico Riserva

Vin Santo (literally meaning “holy wine”) is a style of Italian wine dessert typical of Tuscany. Vin Santo wines are often made from white grape varieties such as Trebbiano and Malvasia, though Sangiovese may be used to produce a rosè style known as “Occhio di Pernice” or eye of the partridge. Vin Santo is described as a straw wine since is often produced by drying the freshly harvested grapes on straw mats in a warm and well ventilated area of the house. However several producers dry the grapes by hanging on racks indoors. Though technically a dessert wine, the wines can vary in sweetness levels from bone dry (like a Fino Sherry) to extremely sweet.

CHIANTI The wine tasting takes place in the main square of the town. It is possible to purchase wine directly at the wineries’ booths.

If you guessed that Riserva is Italian for Reserve you would be correct! Riserva on a bottle of Chianti is your first clue that the bottle of Chianti you’re holding, stands head and shoulders above the rest. Riserva is a term that can be applied not just to Chianti, but to plenty of other Italian wines such as Brunello and Barolo. Of course, just to make things difficult, it has various meanings, but Riserva on a Chianti just means that the wine spends a minimum of two years (in oak) and three months (in the bottle) aging. The alcohol content must also be at least 12.5%. Chianti Riserva is also a great candidate for additional bottle aging, depending on the producer and vintage.

Vin Santo

Florence News 13

5 p.m. CHIANTI CLASSICO: HISTORY AND LEGEND|Meeting garden Meeting and talk show about Chianti Classico wine 9 p.m. PROCESSION|Santa Corce Church 9:30 p.m. - 1 a.m. SPAZIO MUSICA: CHIANTI CLASSICO DJ SHOW|Swimming Pool’s Park with Bibi & Friends DJ Set

SATURDAY 9

THURSDAY 7 5 p.m. OPENING |Piazza Matteotti Ribbon-cutting ceremony. 5 p.m. - 10 p.m.WINE TASTING Piazza Matteotti The wine tasting takes place in the main square of the town. It is possible to purchase wine directly at the wineries’ booths. 9:30 p.m. BORGO IN PASSERELLA Via Roma Fashion show by the shops of Via Roma

FRIDAY 8 11 a.m. - 10 p.m. WINE TASTING Piazza Matteotti

10 a.m. – 8 p.m. OPENING OF ST. STEPHEN’S CHURCH AND EXHIBITION ARTIFACTS OF SACRED ART Montefioralle 11 a.m. – 8 p.m. WINE TASTING Piazza Matteotti The wine tasting takes place in the main square of the town. It is possible to purchase wine directly at the wineries’ booths. 11 a.m. – 7 p.m. ARTISANS IN TOWN|Via Giuliotti Artcraft market 4 p.m. - 5 p.m. GUIDED WINE TASTING|Town Hall “Greve & Enodistricts: seminar on the different souls of the Black Rooster territory” by Riccardo Margheri, Journalist and sommelier Admission € 15.00 p.p. Info and reservations a.molletti@comune.

greve-in-chianti.fi.it 4 p.m. GUIDED TOURS|Piazza Trento Guided Tours to churches and castles of Greve in Chianti and Tour of Artisan’s Laboratory - Free Shuttle 5:30 p.m. - 6:30 p.m. GUIDED WINE TASTING|Town Hall “Chianti Classico Gran Selezione: focus on the territory” by Riccardo Margheri, Journalist and sommelier Admission € 15.00 p.p. Info and reservations a.molletti@comune. greve-in-chianti.fi.it

SUNDAY 10 9 a.m. – 12 p.m. WALKING TOUR Piazza Trento Nature and History of Greve in Chianti 10 a.m. – 8 p.m. OPENING OF ST. STEPHEN’S CHURCH AND EXHIBITION ARTIFACTS OF SACRED ART|Montefioralle 11 a.m. - 9 p.m. WINE TASTING Piazza Matteotti The wine tasting takes place in the main square of the town. It is possible to purchase wine directly at the wineries’ booths. 4 p.m. GUIDED TOURS Piazza Trento Guided Tours to churches and castles of Greve in Chianti and Tour of Artisan’s Laboratory - Free Shuttle 4:30 p.m. SBANDIERATORI DI FIVIZZANO|Piazza Matteotti Flag Waving parade

FLORENTINE COUNTRYSIDE WINE TASTING • WINE TOUR • ACCOMODATIONS • RESTAURANT • WEDDINGS Located at the top of a hill overlooking the valley of Greve in Chianti, Vicchiomaggio offers an unforgettable holiday experience in an ancient castle. A great place to go on vacation, take part in a wine tour, have a fairy-tale wedding and organize business meetings.

CASTELLO VICCHIOMAGGIO - VIA VICCHIOMAGGIO, 4 - 50022 | GREVE IN CHIANTI - FIRENZE | 055.854079 | INFO@VICCHIOMAGGIO.IT

14 Florence News

CHIANTI

Meet Vernaccia...

ante Aligheri, Giovanni Boccaccio, Pope Martin IV, Lorenzo the Magnificent, Michelangelo, just to name a few of the greats that praised the most famous wine produced in San Gimignano. A delicious white wine, that is even referenced in Dante’s legendary “Divine Comedy.” First mentioned in tax documents from 1276, Vernaccia is not only one of Italy’s most esteemed wines, but also one of its oldest. The wine boasts a bold straw-yellow color and a flavor that delicately combines floral and fruity. Perfectly suited for fish and white meats in particular, Vernaccia can be enjoyed even more when combined with complimenting cuisine.

www.palagetto.it

Oldest Wine Found

hat would be the oldest Italian wine was discovered last month as researchers led by a team from the University of South Florida found residue from nearly 6,000 years ago inside a Copper Age jar in a cave near Agrigento, Sicily. Researchers published their findings in the prestigious Microchemical Journal. Chemical analysis conducted on ancient pottery will likely predate the commencement of winemaking in Italy. The finding, which provides a new perspective on the economy of that ancient society, is the earliest discovery of wine

residue in the prehistory of the Italian peninsula. Previously, in fact, it was believed wine growing and wine production developed in Italy in the Middle Bronze Age (1300-1100 B.C.) as attested by the retrieval of seeds. Lead author Davide Tanasi, PhD, University of South Florida in Tampa with his team discovered that the residue contained tartaric acid and sodium salt, which occurs naturally in grapes and in the winemaking process. Tanasi and his colleagues are now trying to establish whether the wine was red or white.

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... and Vino Novello

t’s harvest time and to wine lovers this heralds the arrival of vino novello, or ‘new wine.’ Imbibed with the vigor of newly plucked grapes and designed to be drunk immediately instead of aged, vino novello is a lightweight introduction to the richer flavors of autumn and the colder months that follow. The Italian version of France’s six-week-old Beaujolais Nouveau, vino novello was originally a type of litmus test conducted by producers to gauge the maturation of the grapes shortly after harvest. Vino novello has since come into its own as a stand-alone wine, and in 1999 it officially entered the Italian market. While Beaujolais Nouveau is produced from Gamay grapes, in Italy producers tend to use a range of varieties, such as Merlot, Sangiovese, Cabernet, Corvina and Nero d’Avola, in the production of vino novello. According to Italian law, vino novello cannot

be released before November 6 on the year of harvest. However, it’s not merely the relative youth of the wine that separates it from its heavyweight siblings; the manner in which it is produced differs as well. Vino novello requires manual harvesting, after which the grapes are placed intact in sealed stainless steel tanks and undergo carbonic maceration, a process in which carbon dioxide is used to trigger intracellular fermentation without the addition of yeast. The result is a light, fresh and fruity wine, low in tannins and with pronounced berry characteristics. Ideally drunk within a year of being produced, vino novello is best enjoyed with light first courses, white meat or fresh cheese, as well as that other harbinger of autumn, roasted chestnuts. Light enough to be enjoyed in draughts rather than slowly sipped by the glass, it’s the ideal wine to kick off a season of autumn harvest festivities.

Panzano Wine Festival Every year, on the third weekend of September, the vintners of Panzano meet in the village square to showcase their wines as part of the Vino al Vino wine festival. You will have the chance to sample the different Panzano wines, chat with the winemakers, and listen to jazz music.

The dates are: Thursday, Sept.14 4:30 p.m.– 8 p.m. Friday, Sept.15 12 p.m.– 7:30 p.m. Saturday, Sept.16 11 a.m. – 8 p.m. Sunday, Sept.17 11 a.m. – 7:30 p.m. Live Jazz Music Saturday & Sunday from 6-8 p.m.

TOURS AND TASTINGS

THE TASTE OF TUSCANY

Localitá Il Volano–Lucarelli, 50020 Panzano in Chianti (FI) Italy 055 8561010 • www.ilmolinodigrace.com

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Sweet Wine of the Gods Discover the secrets of Vin Santo

Photo credit: flickr user McPig

n ancient and fabled wine, Vin Santo is one of the most luxurious, albeit unknown, dessert wines on the market today. While somewhat rare and hard to find in the United States, a bottle of Vin Santo is most certainly an elegant and essential addition to any collection of Italian digestivi. What perhaps makes Vin Santo most intriguing, besides its sensational flavor and its many variations, is the wine’s historical roots that date as far back as the Middle Ages. The name “Vin Santo” itself derives from Tuscan folklore passed along from generation to generation and most likely can be attributed to the use of sweet wine during masses in Catholic and Greek Orthodox faiths. The most famous legend surrounding Vin

Santo can be traced to 1348 when the Plague was rampantly devastating the whole of Europe, including Italy. According to this legend, a friar from the province of Siena began distributing Vin Santo to the sick to alleviate their pain. Out of this everyday miracle, the name Vin Santo was purportedly born. According to another variation, the legendary beginnings of the wine are thought to have come from the Ecumenical Council of Florence in 1349. After sampling a Florentine wine by the name of vin pretto (or “pure wine”) at the council dinner, Basilios Bessarion, the founder of the Greek Eastern Orthodox church, commented that the wine was similar to wine from Xanthos. Locals mistook the Cardinal’s comment to mean “san-

Florence News 15

CHIANTI

to,” and thus began referring to the wine as Vin Santo, or “holy wine.” The vinification process for Vin Santo adheres to vini appassiti, meaning that the wine is made from naturally dried grapes with a concentrated sugar content due to the evaporation of water. Although Tuscany is the predominant producer of Vin Santo, variations of the wine can be found throughout Italy. Many regions even dry the grapes on paglia (hay), to give the wine yet another layer of complexity. In 1990 the Italian D.P.R. granted Vin Santo produced in Colli dell’Etruria Centrale that coveted D.O.C. status. Accordingly, this Tuscan variety is considered to be the king of all Vin Santo wines produced in Italy. For a Vin Santo to be compliant with the D.O.C. standard, it must contain at least 50% of Tuscan Trebbiano, up to 5% of Malvasia from Chianti and a combination of 10 to 45% of Pinot Bianco or Grigio, Chardonnay and Sauvignon. The sugar content of the grapes must reach at least 28% while the prolonged drying of the grapes must extend to at least December 20 of a given year. All Vin Santo wines generally exude an amber to hay coloration and are intense and aromatic on the nose. Vin Santo wines generally include caramel-like flavors with hints of honey, raisin and nut. The wine lends itself well to baked goods that are crispy and toasted, such as biscotti, and with an alcohol content of 16% it makes for a delightful accompaniment to desserts or enjoyed simply as a digestivo.

Discover Castello Del Nero

5 Star Hotel and Spa in the heart of Chianti

uilt in the 12th century and located near Tavarnelle Val di Pesa about 20-minute drive from Florence, Castello del Nero is member of the Leading Hotels of the World, the consortium with more than 375 luxury hotels and resorts in over 75 countries.

called La Taverna, features typical Tuscan flavors. In the wine cellar, located in the oldest part of the castle, it is possible to taste wine and EVO. The ESPA branded SPA is over 1000 square meters and offers personalized treatments, heat experience,

The hotel has 32 rooms and 18 suites painstakingly restored, furbished with elegance and completed with state of the art technology. Its frescoes, vaulted ceilings and fireplaces exude charm and history. There are two are the restaurants, a wine cellar, a bar, a SPA, a swimming pool, four hiking paths, an outdoor VITA Parour and two illuminated tennis courts. The main restaurant, La Torre, offers a creative menu, while the other,

vitality pool, a relaxation area and a fitness suite with the most modern and sophisticated equipment. The outdoor heated swimming pool boasts a magnificent view of the surrounding valley with its lakes. Complimentary shuttle bus service to and from the center of Florence or Siena at scheduled times are available all year round. For more information visit: www.castellodelnero.com.

HORSEBACK RIDING IN CHIANTI EASY RIDING FOR EVERYBODY

Tours include transportation, wine and food tastings, relaxation in scenic and historic settings.

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CHIANTI

Discover Colle Val d’Elsa

‘The Italian Way of St. James’ Via Francigena, among ancient routes and modern “pilgrims”

ver 25,000 people, half of whom are Italian, walked at least a part of the Via Francigena last year. Compared to the number of people who walked that stretch in previous years, this is encouraging — an improvement due to the increasing number of bed & breakfasts along the route and to the efforts to promote the route made by the region of Tuscany who has been trying to transform it in a sort of Italian version of the Spanish Way of St. James — but that could, and should, be improved in the future. It was this the conclusion of Italian newspaper Il Fatto Quotidiano that recently published a reportage on the route. According to Il Fatto, the potential of the route are huge and, if well exploited, could make it the Italian version of the St. James Way. First documented as the Lombard Way and then the Frankish Route in 725, according to the travel records of Willibald, Bishop of Eichstätt in Bavaria, the route was named Via Francigena in 876, given its crossing with French territories (Francia, in Italian) at the Abbey of San Salvatore al Monte Amiata in Tuscany and was used

throughout the Middle Ages by pilgrims headed to Rome from the North, particularly from France. Nearly 400 kilometers of the Via pass through Tuscany, accounting in part for the development of a number of the region’s historic settlements and trade and religious centers. Today, tourists and history buffs can enjoy the cultural mecca that is Via Francigena by following one or all of the 15 Tuscan legs, beginning with the journey from Passo della Cisa to Pontremoli and ending with the route from Radicofani to Acquapendente. The Via passes through San Gimignano and its Fortress of Montestaffoli. Originally a castle for the Lombard Astolfo and later a Dominican Convent, the fortress took on a defensive role in the 14th century while under the threat of attack from Siena.

To book a trip to the Via Francigena: www.spreadyourwings.it

A Journey Through Human Cruelty

ts name means “Hill of Elsa Valley”, where “Elsa” is the name of the river which crosses it. Today, Colle di Val d’Elsa is internationally renowned for the production of crystal glassware and art (15% of world production), largely produced in the industrial lower town. The area was settled by man from at least the 4th millennium BC, but first mentions of the city are from the 9th century AD. In 1269 it was the seat of a famous battle during the wars of Guelphs and Ghibellines and in 1479 it was besieged by Neapolitan troops. From the 14th century it was a possession of Florence and the Grand Duchy of Tuscany until the unification of Italy in 1860. In the 20th century it became

an important industrial center. During World War II it was bombed by Allied aircraft. The oldest part of the town is the “colle alta”, the higher part, with a well preserved medieval center. The town developed along the river from the 11th century onwards, building an artificial canal to power various industrial activities, such as wheat mills and paper factories. The city is also famous as the birthplace of sculptor and architect Arnolfo di Cambio.

To book a trip to Colle Val d’Elsa: www.spreadyourwings.it

The Torture and Death Penalty Museum displays more than 100 tools designed to torture and kill. Some of these tools are extremely rare, dating to the sixteenth, seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. They include the notorious ‘iron maiden,’ the guillotine, rack, torture chair and the chastity belt. Also on display are lesser-known sophisticated devices, such as the ‘heretic’s fork,’ the ‘noisemaker’s fife,’ the ‘Spanish spider’, and flaying instruments. Via San Giovanni, 82 & 125 San Gimignano Open daily: 10 a.m.-8 p.m. 0577-940526, 055-940151 Tickets: Full €10 Concessions: €7; Groups: €5 www.museodellatortura.it

Rubaconte FREE WINE TASTINGS IN COLLE VAL D’ELSA

ENOTECA IL SALOTTO DOCG WINES • OIL • GRAPPA • CANTUCCI DI PRATO TYPICAL TUSCAN CAKES

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Via Gracco del Secco, 31, 53034 - Colle di Val d’Elsa (SI) 0577926983 • www.enotecailsalotto.com

Il Supermercato... da Gustare e deGustare HOME DELIVERY SERVICE AVAILABLE Sapori & Dintorni is the new way to do the shopping: in the heart of Florence there is a place where Food, Culture and Territory meet. Get in and discover the Big Supermarket to test and taste! Inside you will find many typical products of the Italian food tradition. Buy your favorite product and taste it within the tasting area.

FIND YOUR LOCAL BIG SUPERMARKET IN THE CITY CENTER

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THE BIG SUPERMARKETS ARE OPEN: • Monday - Saturday: from 08.30 am to 9.00 pm • Sunday: from 09.30 am to 9.00 pm

SEPTEMBER ISSUE www.florencenews.it

On Horseback in Tuscany

A Typical Dish From San Gimignano Asparagus and Truffle Risotto 1/2 kilo fresh asparagus, cut into 1 inch pieces 2 scallions, chopped 2 T olive oil 3 cups arborio rice 1/2 cup Vernaccia di San Gimignano 4 cups vegetable broth 3 T butter 1/2 cup grated cheese (Parmesan or Aged Pecorino) 1. Place olive oil in pan with scallions and asparagus. Sauté for 2 minutes. 2. Add rice, wine, and half of the water. Lower heat and let simmer. 3. As water evaporates, keep adding more, stirring frequently to achieve a creamy texture. 4. Rice should be cooked until tender yet al dente. Add butter and cheese, stirring to distribute evenly. 5. Sprinkle generously with grated truffle.

Ristorante Il Pino Via Cellolese 6 San Gimignano 057 79 40 415 www.ristoranteilpino.it

his tour offered by Florence Country Life is an adventure through the lush vineyards, native woods, olive groves and rolling hills of Chianti, with a collection of breathtaking and unforgettable views in the most wonderful and romantic way: on horseback. No prior experience is needed. Before the ride, you will be given a lesson by a trained guide to become better acquainted with your horse. After the ride, you will enjoy a Tuscan meal washed down with Chianti wine and an oil tasting. If you do not want to ride a horse, you can still come and enjoy the tour with a 20% discount. So, while your friends go on the horse ride

Florence News 19

CHIANTI

A Day in Casole D’Elsa

bout 16 miles from Florence, Casole d’Elsa is one of those places in Tuscany where time will always have trouble passing by. The two must-see places are the churches of San Niccolò and the Collegiata di Santa Maria Assunta. With its Romanesque origins, the church of San Niccolò has a nave and four aisles divided by columns and semi-columns, with two circular apses with mullioned windows. The portico is modern, the central portal is from the early 14th century, and inside are frescoes by Rustichino, a famous Sienese painter lived between the 16th and 17th centuries. At the high altar is a fresco from the 14th century, a Madonna of the Sienese School. It too built in Romanesque style (although today all that remains

of its original style are the façade remains and the bell tower), the collegiata di Santa Maria Assunta was consecrated in 1161. The upper part is decorated with blinds arches divided by slender semi-columns, while the transept is from the 14th century. Within the Comune of Casole d’Elsa are also two other small churches (and, of course, places) not to be missed. In the small village of Mensano is another amazing 12th century church, the Pieve of San Giovanni Battista, whose sculpted capitals of the columns, dividing nave and aisles, are considered amongst the finest examples of Romanesque sculpture in Tuscany. In Pievescola is the Pieve di San Giovanni Battista, built in the same period as the others.

you can enjoy snacks, wine and a nice walk around a traditional Tuscan farm. If you have never horse-whispered before, then let horses whisper to you.

Florence Country Life From € 100 www.florencecountrylife.com info@florencecountrylife.com Tel.: +39.366.4738711 TRANSPORTATION INCLUDED

Villa Italia

Monumental Villa in the deepest heart of Tuscany IN CASOLE D’ELSA 22 available beds. Ideal for groups, weddings, large families, business dinners. Spread Your Wings • Via Baccanella, 3/A 53037 • San Gimignano (SI) Tel. +39 0577 940568 • info@spreadyourwings.it • www.spreadyourwings.it

Wine aperitivo in Chianti (Transportation included)

WINE ON TAP IN SANTO SPIRITO Bring your bottle to be filled starting from less than €1.50 straight from the barrels of Il Santo Vino. Here patrons can choose from a wide range of Italian wines alongside selected local specialty and organic products.

Opening hours: Tuesday to Sunday: 10 a.m.–2 p.m.; 5–9 p.m. Borgo Tegolaio, 46/r Tel. 055 53 87 122 , 345 90 93 425 www.ilsantovino.it Facebook: Il Santo Vino

Cooking Classes

From 45 euro TRUFFLE HUNTING • WINE TOUR IN A CASTLE WALKING TOUR VIA FRANCIGENA ACCOMMODATION IN SAN GIMIGNANO Via Vecchia, 3 - 53037 San Gimignano (Siena) 0577 940568 - 3393817394 www.spreadyourwings.it info@spreadyourwings.it

In Tavola aims to spread the rich food and wine culinary traditions of Italy and the Tuscany region through an incredible variety of dishes and recipes to all interested in learning the secrets behind the traditional Italian kitchen. With this intent to promote their knowledge, In Tavola organizes several opportunities for professionals and beginners to participate in cooking and baking lessons with the guidance of professional Chefs in an individual or group setting.

Via dei Velluti, 18/20r 055 217672 www.intavola.org

20 Florence News

SAN GIMIGNANO

San Gimignano Hosts Cartier-Bresson

he Raffaele De Grada Art Gallery in San Gimignano is presenting a showcase of 140 pictures by French photographer Henri Cartier-Bresson until Oct. 15. Considered a master of candid photography, Cartier-Bresson (1908-2004) worked as photojournalist capturing some key facts of the Spanish Civil War, World War II, and the 1968 student rebellion in Paris. The exhibit, organized in collaboration with the Fondation HCB, was set up in 2003 in Paris by Cartier Bresson, his wife, Martine Franck, and their daughter Méla-

nie. It features a selection of photos curated by the artist’s friend and publisher Robert Delpire. Cartier-Bresson’s art was influenced by surrealist photography and reflects his restless personality and self-taught approach to photography. “I’m just a nervous person, and I love painting; as to photography, I don’t understand anything about it,” he used to say about himself. Not understanding anything about photography implied not developing the shots, something he would leave to professional photogra-

WINE TASTINGS IN SAN GIMIGNANO

Via Racciano 10 - 53037 San Gimignano 334/6399484 • 0577/943090 www.palagetto.it

phers. In fact, Cartier-Bresson never wanted any editing of the negatives or the frames, as he believed that what had to be judged was the photographer’s ability to catch the here and now: that is, the portrayed subject’s immediate response. Photography thus becomes just a tool that should neither prevail nor upset the initial experience of the real time defining a work’s meaning and value. “To me the camera is a sketch book, an instrument of intuition and spontaneity, the master of the instant which, in visual terms, questions and decides simultaneously. In order to give a ‘meaning’ to the world, one has to feel involved in what one frames through the viewfinder. This attitude requires concentration, discipline of mind, sensitivity, and a sense of geometry. It is by economy of means that one arrives at simplicity of expression,” he said. Coherently with this approach, Cartier-Bresson never revised his picture: he either accepted it, or discarded it. To him, taking photos was a way of moving from the imaginary to the real world. “To take a photograph is to hold one’s breath when all faculties converge in a face of fleeing reality. It is at that moment that mastering an image becomes a great physical and intellectual joy,” he said. Cartier Bresson is also famous for having founded in 1947, together with Robert Capa, George Rodger, David Seymour and William Vandivert, the world-renowned Magnum Photos Agency, which is still a pillar of international photojournalism to this day.

SEPTEMBER ISSUE www.florencenews.it

Galleria Gagliardi Presents Alessio Deli

he contemporary art gallery Galleria Gagliardi is presenting an exhibit of 9 sculptures and one installation by Alessio Deli, an artist famous for his “ecologic sculpture,” until Sept. 30. All pieces on display are made of resin and a variety of recycled materials such as iron, sheet metal, lead, wood, polyurethane, and marble dust. Deli’s art is a combination of sculpture and painting characterized by an intensive use of acids and oxides, an accurate mediation of painting steps and colors, unprecedented combinations of recovered materials that originate new expressive languages, and the pursuit of a beauty beyond the exteriority of sensual aesthetics. His sculptures portray an idea of beauty that is real, good, just, and desir-

able only as a consequence of the combination of these three factors. Born in Marino, near Rome, in 1981, Deli has showcased his works in public spaces such as the Basilica of S. Maria in Aracoeli in Rome; the MacS in Catania; the Raccolta Civica d’Arte Contemporanea at Palazzo Simoni Fè in Bienno; and the Contemporary Art Museum Roberto Bilotti in Cosenza. Located on Via San Giovanni 57 in San Gimignano, the Galleria Gagliardi was established in 1991 in a 400-square-meter space once used as a garage and store for farm machinery. Since then, the gallery has become a cultural reference point for the promotion and sale of contemporary art, boasting the largest selection of contemporary ceramic sculptures in Italy.

SEPTEMBER ISSUE www.florencenews.it

Running to Fight Against Breast Cancer Corri La Vita Returns on Sept. 24

he Corri la Vita marathon is returning on Sept. 24. Founded in 2003, the marathon has been raising over 4.500.000 euro in 14 years, with 275.000 participants from all over the world, bringing together charity, physical activity, culture and social commitment. Athletes and non-athletes alike are welcome to participate in the five-kilometer walk or the 11-kilometer competitive run that begins in Piazza Duomo and takes participants through some of the most scenic parts of Florence. While winding through the historic center and stopping along the way to

visit gardens, churches and palaces, volunteers will provide historical and artistic information about the city. On the marathon’s day, several Florentine palaces, museums, gardens, churches will be open to the public, some of which are part of the itineraries of the race. By wearing a Corri La Vita 2017 shirt, or by showing your registration ticket, you will have free access to the agreement spots. From Sept. 1, all participants can pick up their shirt in exchange for a donation of a minimum of 10 euro (15 euro for the racing bib).

Those unable to be in Florence on Sept. 24 can have the shirt shipped for free through a donation to the marathon website. A new line of merchandise has been launched to support the fight against cancer, which includes a series of products specifically designed for all sport enthusiasts. Among these is, a handy, elegant and practical sport bag. For those who prefer to run to the beat of music there is a practical, anatomically designed backpack with holes for headphones and reflector bands. Other products include a wind jacket, an umbrella, a cap,

Florence News 21

CITY BEAT shopping bag and a watch. Contributions to the campaign can also be made throughout the year on www.corrilavita.it/donazioni. Walkers and runners make an important social contribution, with all proceeds going directly to Florence’s public health department to support breast cancer research, help patients directly and assist the volunteers in their work. Those collected from the last edition were given to L.I.L.T. Lega Italiana per la Lotta contro i Tumori Sezione di Firenze (Florence Cancer Association) supporting Ce.Ri.On. Centro Riabilitazione Oncologica (Oncology Center in Florence), FILE Fondazione Italiana di Leniterapia (palliative care Association), “The Vito Distante Project in Breast

Cancer Clinical Research” and SenoNetwork Italia Onlus (national network for cancer patients). Enrollment forms and info are available for download at www. corrilavita.it or at participating stores.

Find your favorite sport brand at the Barberino Designer Outlet

For info on the shuttle bus to the outlet see p.

22 Florence News

SHOPPING

SEPTEMBER ISSUE www.florencenews.it

High Luxury Boutique Opens

A Shuttle to the Barberino Designer Outlet

A new high luxury boutique recently opened its doors near Piazza Strozzi, in the very heart of the city. The shop, called Aeleonore, offers products that combine its two founders’ passion for Arts, Design and Fashion with Florentine and Tuscan traditions. Eleonora Sassoli and Stefano Niccoli, the minds behind Aeleonore, are dedicated to fusing together the charm of Florentine authenticity with innovative solutions for the future, to reinventing a glorious past destined to live forever. History and a mastery of Tuscan craftsmanship are the two integral ingredients of this new brand. The materials for their items – bags, belts, headscarves, jewels – all have a guaranteed traceability. Bags and belts are made of monochromatic leather, which matches with the collection of twelve headscarves with polychromic prints. The use of these colors is intended to create a soft, neutral base with respect to the different colors of the collection and the foulards and jewelry. Aeleonore is located on Via Monalda 3-5-7/r.

Located in the green heart of Tuscany, just 30 minutes from Florence, Barberino Designer Outlet is the shopping destination where you can browse items from 200 of the most luxurious designer fashion brands including Dolce & Gabbana, Michael Kors, Hugo Boss, Polo Ralph Lauren, Nike, Patrizia Pepe and many more at 30-70% less all year round. The outlet is open from 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. You can reach Barberino Designer Outlet with a comfortable shuttle bus service from Florence train station, 4 times a day. Tickets can be purchased online. Price is €13 per person, roundtrip. Take this page to the Outlet Information Office to get the FASHION PASSPORT, the discount card which will grant you an additional 10% reduction on the Outlet price. Shuttle bus to Barberino Designer Outlet departs from Florence Santa Maria Novella train station at 9.30 a.m. –11.30 a.m. –2. p.m. – 4 p.m. Meeting point 15 minutes before bus departure at Sightseeing Experience Visitor Centre on Platform 16. Return to Florence at: 1 p.m. – 3 p.m. – 6 p.m. – 8 p.m. (on Saturdays and Sundays 10 p.m. until July 23). For more information visit www.mcarthurglen.it/barberino TAX FREE ON YOUR FAVORITE BRANDS

MONDO PERÙ

Alpaca craftsmanship ORGANIC COTTON ITEMS

PINART BOTTEGA D’OLTRARNO

ARTISAN LEATHER JOURNALS & ITALIAN PENS Situated 30 meters from the Ponte Vecchio, Pinart has offered quality stationery for more than 20 years. • •

•

Genuine Leather Original made in Florence

Books, notebooks and photo albums in artisan-worked leather with handmade paper; A large selection of writing instruments from top Italian brands, including fountain, roller and ballpoint pens; Hand-painted wooden boxes and photo frames portraying details from Florentine monuments.

Open: Mon–Sat: 10 a.m.–7:30 p.m.; Sun: 11 a.m.–7 p.m.

Via dei Pilastri 22r 339 362 5372

Via dei Pilastri 7A/R (next to the Synanogue) www.cuordipelle.com

Fashion Passport

he Barberino McArthurGlen Designer Outlets offers the most sought-after names in luxury and designer fashion, including Armani, Dolce&Gabbana and Versace at prices reduced by up to 70% less all year round. The outlet is the perfect addition to your business and leisure programs, with cafés and restaurants, children’s playgrounds, ample parking, multilingual staff and a year-round calendar of events. All ISIC/ITIC/IYTC cardholders can take advantage of the “Fashion Passport” that offers an additional 10% Off on the outlet price (not products on sales). You can withdraw the Fashion Passport at the Information Office of the Outlet. *Fashion Passport is valid only in specific shops. The discount cannot be cumulated with other offers and with products on sales. The fashion passport is valid for the whole day and only to the cardholder.

SEPTEMBER ISSUE www.florencenews.it

Survive Culture Shock

A guide to Italy’s surprises, contrasts and chaos

SARAH HUMPHREYS

“

talia! Oh Italia! Thou who hast the fatal gift of Beauty”: Byron’s tribute to il bel paese still rings true today. Italy’s magnetic charm has

been attracting visitors for centuries and it is easy to see why. It is almost impossible not to fall in love with this uniquely seductive country, justifiably well-known for its scenic beauty, artistic treasures, incredible food and wine,

and iconic historical and cultural heritage. Italy is full of surprises, contrasts and chaos; not least for those who are visiting for the first time. Many aspects of Italian life – ranging from eating times, ‘rules’ about drinking coffee, trying to

Florence News 23

CITY BEAT cross the road, and dealing with unwanted attention – can be a real culture shock.Culture shock can be defined as ‘emotional disorientation caused by continuously unexpected reactions to the new culture.’ Culture shock can manifest itself in various ways, including anxiety, depression, loneliness, migraines and lack of energy. It is described as having four stages: the Honeymoon Period, Crisis Period, Adaption Period and Stabilization Period. Psychologists say that all fours stages must be lived through to achieve intercultural competence. Apart from being overwhelmed by the exquisite food and wine, musical language, natural beauty and (mostly) lovely weather, the newcomer to Florence also risks being infected by ‘Stendhal Syndrome’, so-called after the 19th-century writer: a psychosomatic condition that causes rapid heartbeat, dizziness and even hallucinations after an individual has been exposed to an ‘overdose’ of beautiful art. Doctors at Santa Maria Nuova regularly admit tourists suffering from ‘mental imbalances’, often after visiting the Uffizi, which is considered a particularly ‘dangerous’ spot. One theory is that viewing so much culture can bring on feelings of anguish and insecurity. On recovering from an overdose of art, beauty, ice cream and fine Chianti, reality starts to kick in. As the ‘romantic’ Honeymoon period comes to an end, less positive aspects of Italian life will start to become more obvious. Feelings of anger and frustration are quite

LIVE MUSIC AND SPORTS Via Faenza 27/r • 055 274 1571

normal at this point. Nowhere is this more obvious than dealing with anything connected to any kind of documents, work permits, banking or transactions at the post office. You will just have to get used to standing in queues for hours (make sure you check that you’re in the right one) before being practically ignored by a bored, power-crazed official with no concept of service. Bureaucracy is quite simply a nightmare. You need an enormous amount of patience to deal with these situations, no matter how long you stay in Italy. Once you begin to get used to rude shop assistants, insane driving, triple parking, not drinking cappuccinos after dinner and shops closing over lunchtime, the Adaption period begins and Italian life will begin to seem normal. After adjusting and adapting, it is usual to begin to feel at home. Learning Italian is a crucial step in fitting in and understanding the culture. After going through culture shock, psychologists say that you develop greater empathy for your surroundings, are able to think in a new cultural frame, have greater cultural patience and develop a more critical mind to see through myths and prejudices. As a foreigner living in Italy, you are allowed, or even expected to be different and even a little eccentric. In the words of American writer Erica Jong, “What is the fatal charm of Italy? What do we find here that can be found nowhere else? I believe it is a certain permission to be human, which other places, other countries, lost long ago.”

OPEN EVERY DAY

12:00 - 15:00 / 19:00 - 24:00 Via Ghibellina 128/R 055 2466954 www.ristoranteilteatro.net

SEPTEMBER ISSUE www.florencenews.it

10 Tips for New Arrivals A guide for adjusting and thriving in Florence

? I

n the labyrinth of narrow streets and foreign road signs, Florence can seem like a daunting place for anyone setting foot here for the first time. Naturally, those who are newly arrived come across hurdles as they attempt to get familiar with the city. To avoid the dangers of the first period, here are a few tips. GET LOST: Take a stroll off the tourist-beaten path. Wandering through side streets by foot is one

of the best ways to get to know the city. You’re more likely to find authentic Italian craft and food shops this way, rather than sticking to the city center. Pack a camera, some cash and leave your worries behind. Don’t fret. All roads (eventually) lead back to the Duomo. ALWAYS KEEP TRACK OF YOUR BELONGINGS: Florence is not a dangerous city but pickpocketing

can occur, so you stay mindful. Don’t leave your important personal belongings unattended when you are in a bar, pub or restaurant; always keep an eye on your purse and always keep it close. KNOW HOW TO FIND A DOCTOR. If you find yourself in need of medical assistance while in Florence, you can find English-speaking doctors by calling 055/475411. The call service is active 24-hour a day. The Medical Service Center is in Via Roma 4, very close to the Dome and to Piazza della Repubblica. Website is www.medicalservice. firenze.it KNOW WHERE TO FIND A BIG SUPERMARKET: It is not easy to find big supermarkets in Florence. However, CONAD SAPORI & DINTORNI are three large supermarkets in the city center that offer typical Italian products and a wide selection of wines. The CONAD SAPORI & DINTORNI for those living near the Ponte Vecchio, in Santo Spirito or in Santa Croce is on Via de’ Bardi, near the Ponte Vecchio. For those living near the train station the CONAD SAPORI & DINTORNI is on Largo Alinari at the end of Via Nazionale, very close to the station. The third big supermarket is very near the Dome, in Borgo San Lorenzo. SPEAK THE LANGUAGE: It’s easy to get by in Florence without speaking Italian, but challenge yourself - it’s worth it! In stores, clerks tend to respond in English if they realize that it is your na-

Florence News 25

CITY BEAT tive language, but be persistent. Gesture. Practice. Meet the locals. Pick up a newspaper, magazine or even a brochure written in Italian and see how much you can understand. Underline the words and phrases you haven’t learned yet and look them up! SOME MORE LANGUAGE ADVICE: Just to make learning a foreign language a little bit more challenging, Italian has several words that look and sound like the English equivalent but have completely different meanings. For example, a ‘libreria’ is an Italian bookshop, not a library, so be sure to pay for your books or you could find yourself in a bit of a sticky situation. The importance of accents should also be noted: by forgetting to stress the ‘o’ in ‘casinò’ you are referring to a brothel, not a gambling house! EAT LIKE A LOCAL: Americans are accustomed to fast food. We like our coffee on the go; sandwiches ordered, prepared and consumed in the passenger seat of our cars in under five minutes. While in Florence, you should eat like the locals: take the time to eat. Sit (or stand) at a bar to drink your cappuccino. Enjoy it. You might find the change of pace relaxing. When you’re out to eat for dinner, appreciate the multi-course meal. No more of the take-home doggy bags! Portions are smaller here and you’ll notice that food is made for quality, not quantity. Embrace the fact that you’re eating the most delicious Italian food, and remember to take

time to enjoy it. When looking for a sandwich shop, avoid the prepared sandwiches on display. For the freshest ingredients, find a place that will make your sandwich when you order. A tip for gelato lovers: stay away from the foot-high rainbow mounds of ice cream. They are that bright for a reason. They aren’t as natural and definitely not as fresh. DRINK LIKE A LOCAL: Wine is part of Italian culture and is to be enjoyed and appreciated, not abused. Italians will laugh at anyone they come across drinking on the streets, so pace yourselves. Sit at a table and drink for pleasure as opposed to bingeing! TAKE ADVANTAGE OF THE TREASURES OF TUSCANY: To live like a local, you have to know your location. While it’s exciting and rewarding to travel all over Europe during this time, check out what Tuscany has to offer! A lot of activities and trips can be done in a single day, by train or by bus. STAY POSITIVE: Not everything goes according to plan, but it’s you who determines the outcome of the situation. A bad attitude isn’t going to get you far, with either locals or other students you meet. By keeping an open mind, you’re more likely to absorb the culture and take away more from your experience. Understand that you will be challenged linguistically, intellectually and morally, and recognize that it’s all part of the adventure.

26 Florence News

CITY BEAT

rtisan and artist Lituana Di Sabatino offers workshops, courses and guided visits on the antique technique of assembling hard stone sections known as Mosaico Fiorentino, whose origins can be found in the Florentine Romanesque period. Participants in the course will learn about the kinds of stones used, the tools to work them, and the composition of a mosaic. Three types of courses are available: one of 12 hours (four lessons of three hours each), one of 24 hours (eight lessons), and one of 36 (12 lessons). The maximum number of participants per course is three. Guided visits of Lituana’s studio, which is located in a small town

near Florence called Figline Valdarno, are open to anyone. Participants of the courses, workshops and guided visits can be taken by car from Florence. The meeting point is Piazza Beccaria. In the Mosaico Fiorentino technique stones are selected for their colors and shades, and are then hand-cut with the combined action of a wooden arc with a wire and the use of powder to be subsequently arranged and polished. In her studio, Lituana fashions originals and reproductions of ancient mosaics works, continuing to refine her own artistry and also handing down the secrets of this technique to students and enthusiasts. For more information check the website: lanuovamusiva.com.

www.florencenews.it

A Portrait of a Painter

Mosaics Workshops, Courses, and Guided Visits

SEPTEMBER ISSUE

Meet Lukas Braendli

cross the Arno, a few steps away from the Ponte Vecchio, there is a delightful art studio called “Studio Toscanella.” Artists of all ages come by the studio to learn how to draw and paint through academic teaching, as well as to discover traditional techniques and develop an eye towards modern and contemporary aesthetics. Lukas feels that there is a need to emphasize an academic approach in art studies –– the method he learned as a young art student. He wants to continue to teach this academic approach by encouraging his students to re-

fine their technique and learn all the fundamentals from the basics, and gradually move towards more complex concepts. He claims that he “enjoys the process in art” and that it must be respected since “there is a method to drawing well.” Lukas believes that everyone is capable of learning how to draw since art is, in fact, a craft –– you learn by a combination of failure and time. Inside the studio, works of students from throughout the years are hung, including oil paintings, still lifes, charcoal and graphite portraits, demonstrating a keen understanding of form and contrast. The atmosphere is tranquil and welcoming, catching the attention of any passerby. The studio can also be rented out to artists for short or long periods and to teachers to hold seminars, courses and workshops of various kinds. Intensive short and longterm workshops are offered for groups and individual students, while the teaching is on an individual basis and provides for a personalized training with step-by-step coaching through the execution of artworks. Sessions last for two to three hours or more and students can request morning, afternoon or evening sessions. To contact Studio Toscanella, they can be reached by their website http://www.studiotoscanella.com/works-3 and their number +39 340 737 1239.

Artisan Tradition

tepping into Paolo Fattori’s elegant leather workshop is a surprising experience: light and airy with clean lines and a minimalist feel, it’s where the modern world meets ancient Florentine tradition. Only the lingering scent of leather and the sight of Paolo busily working at an island bench indicates that this is, in fact, a bottega (workshop) producing finely crafted leather bags, backpacs, belts and various articles from the hands of the man himself.Rolls of jewel-colored leather line the walls, numbered and certified by Tuscan company Consorzio Vera Pelle Italiana Conciata al Vegetale, which practises an artisan method of vegetable-dyed leather that has its origins in the Renaissance. Although Paolo has only been working in leather fulltime for six years, he’s already made a name for himself both in Florence and as far afield as Japan. However, manual dexterity runs in Paolo’s veins; his father and grandfather worked in wood and iron, and he credits them with his ability. “In Tuscany, manual skill is widespread and forms part of the genetic heritage of the region,” he says. Indeed, Paolo’s workshop is named after the two principal instruments of the trade: the furò and punteruolo.

Furò e Punteruolo Via del Giglio, 29R

FURÒ E PUNTERUOLO HANDMADE LEATHER ACCESSORIES

PAINTING Short and & Longterm DRAWING Workshops on Painting and INTENSIVE Drawing 10 DAYS WORKSHOP DAY CLASSES STUDIO RENTAL AVAILABLE www.facebook.com/studiotoscanella/ Via Toscanella 33R , 50123 Firenze 3407371239 340 737 1239 www.studiotoscanella.com www.studiotoscanella.com

Cartoleria Lory Srl P.za Frescobaldi 8r 50125 055-213246 Shop.lory.net www.digital-fineart.it www.lorycad.net

Via del Giglio, 29/r 348 437 0867

LUNGARNO COLOMBO 13

I' GIRONE DE' GHIOTTI THE VINAIO NEAR PIAZZA SIGNORIA

TUSCAN PANINI, ARTISANAL BEERS AND WINE TASTING Via dei Cimatori 23/r 055 53 26 053

SEPTEMBER ISSUE www.florencenews.it

Florence News 29

FOOD&WINE

The ‘Italian’ Dishes that Don’t Actually Exist in Italy HEATHER DONNER

any tourists who travel around Italy, and more generally many foreigners, have misconceptions about authentic Italian food. They are often surprised to find that common American “Italian” dishes such as penne alfredo, garlic bread, spaghetti with meatballs and pepperoni pizza are nowhere to be found on a restaurant menù in Italy. Those tourists, or foreigners, quickly discover that

America’s favorite Italian foods are not actually authentic Italian. These misconceptions on authentic Italian food are often the result of Italian emigration. Over one hundred years ago, Italians came to America and became

poverty-stricken farmers. They practiced a style of cooking called “cucina povera”, which translates to “poor kitchen”. Italian immigrants were forced to cook with only readily available ingredients and leftovers. They could not afford many of the ingredients used in authentic Italian meals, and this led to changes in the original recipes. In this way, the new Italian-Americans altered, and forever americanized, some of the most famous Italian dishes. An article recently published in

The Local, the largest English-language news network in Europe, shows how and why some of the very popular American-Italian dishes were created. And so we discover that penne alfredo originated in America in the

LIVE SPORT Via dell'Anguillara 54R • 055 265 4098

1920’s and does not exist in Italy. It was created when an Italian, easy to guess by the name of Alfredo, served a pasta dish with butter and sage. Due to the lack of ingredients, he eventually created ‘penne alfredo’, a dish which uses cream and parsley instead of butter and sage. Similarly, America’s go-to Italian dish of spaghetti with meatballs is not authentic Italian at all. This dish was likely created by Italian immigrants unable to find quality tomatoes and thus forced to add meat to their sauce to make it thicker as meat was more readily available. Italians do eat, and do love meatballs, but never in their pasta. Meatballs, here in Italy, are traditionally served as a

main course or starter dish, and are accompanied by vegetables, beans or potatoes. Another popular American-Italian dish, and in many cases just ‘American’, is piz-

za. In America, strange pizza toppings such as ham and pineapples are frequent. That’s fine. But it is a common misconception by Americans that this kind of pizza, or pizzas, are authentic Italian: Such toppings would probably stimulate the irony of an Italian pizza maker. Then we should also consider that Italian regions differ in culinary specialties. Americans often assume that a popular Italian dish in their country is also popular amongst all of Italy. In reality, a popular American-Italian dish could stem from a small Italian village and may not be popular, at all, in the rest of Italy. As you travel across Italy, do not be shocked if you do not find your favorite ‘Italian’ dish on the menù. It may be that that dish is typical of another region or another place, or more likely that, in Italy, one of your favorite ‘Italian’ dishes simply does not exist.

30 Florence News

FOOD&WINE

Taste Wine with Pino In a renovated 700-year-old well

‘P

ozzo Divino’ is a witty play on words: literally meaning ‘divine well’, it also translates as ‘wine well’ when read as ‘Pozzo di Vino’. The ancient well is now the cellar that hosts Pozzo Divino’s wine tours. Dating back to 1312, the well was built to supply water through a vast system of underground tunnels and pipes to the prisoners of a local prison known as ‘The Stinche’ (now Teatro Verdi) that stretched as far as the Bargello. Pino bought the location in 2006 and restored it himself with the help of some friends. Despite its

restoration, Pino reveals that it was always his principal intention to maintain a tangible sense of history when stepping into the cellar. This is something he has undoubtedly achieved; the place is almost like a time-machine propelling you back a few centuries into a part of authentic medieval Florence – albeit in excellent condition. Pino imparts his knowledge while taking guests around the cellar, offering a range of Italian wines to sample with an appetizer of complementary regional cheeses, cuts of meats, bread, olive oil and balsamic vinegar.

Guests are offered a spectrum of Tuscan flavors to try, from a variety of the region’s renowned Chianti Classico to white wines that include Chardonnay, Sauvignon and Pinot Grigio. The wine-tasting ends with the most exclusive reds of the cellar: Bolgheri, Super Tuscan, Morellino and Montepulciano. Upon request, guests also enjoy a buffet lunch comprising fresh pasta, specialty Italian second courses, and “the best panini in the world” made by Pino himself. Pino boasts that 90 percent of the wines he holds are of Tuscan origin, and that his tours prove so popular that he often ships back boxes of the wine sampled to America in order to appease impressed customers. Those looking to take a taste of Tuscany back home can find comprehensive information on shipping zones and freight costs on the company’s website. Pozzo Divino’s wine tours can be organized for tourist groups, families and universities, and cost only €15 a head – which not only makes it an experience to enjoy over the festive season but also an ideal Christmas gift for lovers of Tuscany’s finest vintages.

Pozzo Divino Only 15 Euro! Via Ghibellina, 144/r 055 24 66 907 Open from Monday to Saturday Wine-tasting on Sundays by appointment (minimum 10 people) www.pozzodivino.it

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Dine with Dante

amed after Dante Alighieri’s The Divine Comedy, a homely, rustic taverna fittingly lies on Via dei Cimatori, only a few meters away from Dante’s house. The restaurant offers traditional dishes based on medieval recipes. Some are adapted and revisited for the modern age in a way that one maintains the omnipresent feeling of Florentine history and tradition – so much so that Dante himself could walk in and dine next to you. Others are as they were centuries ago. Traditional medieval-style dishes include homemade ribbon pasta with wild boar and mushroom sauce, roast shin of pork with new potatoes and seasonal vegetables, risotto inspired by medieval Tus-

can flavors, and tasting plates of assorted cheeses accompanied with fresh fruit and jams, including the taverna’s specialty hot red pepper jam. Also serving as a wine bar and pizzeria, the restaurant offers an eclectic selection of wines from its cellar, an outdoor summer terrace, and is fittingly decorated in a medieval style with armour and banners.

Taverna Divina Commedia Via dei Cimatori, 7r 055 21 53 69

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Florence News 31

FOOD&WINE

How to Embrace Italian Coffee Culture Keep in mind that a bar is a coffee shop in Italy, so don’t get that confused. At some bars you can order alcoholic beverages, but keep in mind the main purpose is for coffee. If you’re meeting a friend at the bar, don’t show up ready to party and don’t think they’re crazy for going to the bar multiple times a day! 2. Your options are limited Coffee giants like Starbucks have all these crazy concoctions for drinks, but options are pretty simple in Italy. Here are the main options explained: · A caffè is a tiny cup that’s a shot of espresso. It’s not sweet unless you add sugar, so you’ve been warned. If you’ve had a rough day, you can also add alcohol to this shot of espresso by asking for a caffè corretto. · A cappuccino in Italy consists of espresso, milk and foam. Unlike an American cappuccino, there’s not sugar diluting the drink. If you’d like it to be sweeter, ask for sugar or add sugar. · A macchiato is a caffè with drops of hot milk and a little foam. · A caffè latte is a shot of espresso with mostly hot milk and some foam. If you’re really needing a pick-me-up, this isn’t the option with the most coffee. · A caffè Americano is more like coffee you’re probably used to.

KENDALL DAVIES

spresso has gone from the “devil’s drink” to the national drink in Italy. That’s history. What would have happened if the Church still combated this drink in Italy like they did in the 16th century? If that was the case, Italy probably wouldn’t have 8 million bags imported yearly and 77% of the population wouldn’t be consuming it at breakfast. Coffee makes up a significant part of Italian food culture. If you don’t know that, you will learn quickly upon arrival. Think coffee is hard to come by in Italy? Think again. On every street you’ll probably find a dozen cafes. So don’t fret, you’ll get that coffee fix if you’re in Italy. However, coffee culture is a big adjustment for a foreigner in Italy, especially if you’re trying to fully embrace the culture while being here. You can’t simply order your usual Starbucks or Dunkin’ Donuts, there are rules that must be followed in order to save yourself from - what’s a nice way to say this? - disgrace. Those places haven’t arrived here yet, so wave goodbye to that frappuccino life. Here are nine steps on how to fully embrace coffee culture while living in or visiting Italy. 1. It’s called a bar

It’s just your normal cup of coffee served black. 3. Embrace simplicity Coffee is simple in Italy. Drinks aren’t diluted with unnecessary sugars and sweeteners. This might make you nervous because it’s different, but you’ll be surprised at how quickly you adjust. The coffee is made faster and the drink quality is high. 4. Latte isn’t what you’d think Do not make the mistake of ordering a latte. You will get just a glass of milk considering latte in Italian means milk. Save yourself the embarrassing moment and order a latte with caffè. 5. Milk could ruin all your efforts of blending in Milk is a big factor between embracing Italian coffee culture and not. Italians only drink milk in their coffee before 11 a.m. After 11 a.m., they switch to caffè. Milk is filling, so it’s usually considered a meal in itself when it’s added with coffee in the morning. The Italian culture believes drinking milk in your coffee in the afternoon or with a meal will mess up the digestion process. 6. Not the time to rest those legs Sitting at a bar to drink your coffee could cost you more. A lot of Italians drink their coffee standing, so if you want to blend, do what they do.

FRESH AND ORIGINAL SINCE 2004 Tel. (+39) 055 290748 | Via dell’Acqua, 2/R - 50122 Firenze

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7. Iced coffee isn’t as common Iced coffee isn’t as easy to come by in Italy. If you aren’t specific, you will get a hot caffè Americano with some ice. A shakerato is a cold espresso that’s paired with ice and shaken. A lot of Americans enjoy iced coffee in all seasons, but a shakerato is most common in the heat of summer in Italy. 8. To-go might not meet your expectations Ordering a coffee to-go is possible, but not common in the Italian culture. Most Italians stand at the bar to finish their drink in that moment. If you do get a coffee to-go, it may not be what you’re expecting. While to-go cups do exist, some bars don’t have the typical cup that makes it easy to drink on the go. You might simply get coffee in a cup with a closed lid on it. 9. Get used to small portions

Don’t think you’ll find a Starbucks venti at any bars in Italy. Portions are smaller, but still extremely effective. You may not think that tiny espresso shot will affect you, but oh it will! “As an iced-coffee lover, I had to adjust to not having that readily available all the time, but I found a new love for better quality coffee for a more affordable price in Italian coffee culture,” said Rachel O’Donnell, an American study abroad student from Chicago, Illinois living in Florence, Italy for three months. The Italian coffee culture is different for outsiders, but it is easy to adjust to. While visiting or living in a new country, you should do your best to embrace the culture for a quality experience. Although it can be hard, it can be done!

32 Florence News

MUSIC

Rolling Stones to Rock Lucca on Sept. 23

SEPTEMBER ISSUE www.florencenews.it

A ‘Port’ for All Musicians

s with any port, Porto di Mare-Eskimo is synonymous with exchange, correspondence, and coming and going. This year the club has an important novelty: courses of typical Italian dance Tarantella, which will be taking place on Friday night. Porto di Mare's focus on live music and cultural exchange is one that the man who started the club, Francesco Cofone, holds close to his heart.

band born under the initiative of Francesco, it includes some of the biggest and respected names on the jazz scene amongst its members. Among these are trumpeter and band conductor Fabio Morgera, who played under legendary American jazz cornetist; composer and conductor Butch Morris for 30 years in New York; Dario Cecchini, sax and leader of Italian marching band Funk Off; trumpeter Luca Marianini; trombone player Ste-

The Week at Porto di Mare THE PORT OPEN TO ALL MUSICIANS TUES: PALCO D’AUTORE: Music lab for emerging artists and songwriters WED: CITY LAB PROJECT: Musicians forming an orchestra will accompany the Palco D’Autore artists THURS: CAM’ ON: Students from the school of music CAM exhibit their talents. Then open mic jam sessions open to all musicians

he Rolling Stones will play at the 28th edition of the Lucca Summer Festival as a part of their “No Filter” world tour on Saturday, Sept. 23. For the first time, the walls surrounding Lucca will host a musical performance to the meadows below. The British band last performed in Italy three years ago, when they held a concert at the Rome Circus Maximus. As in Rome, even in Lucca the location is quite suggestive, as the ancient walls of the city will provide an unforgettable experi-

ence for the 50,000 lucky enough to attend the show. Although last May pre-sales went sold out in one hour following the announcement of the concert and the local attorney opened a case as prices immediately tripled, there still may be tickets available at ticketone.com. The Rolling Stones concert completes the program of summer events in Tuscany, with many big names such as Radiohead, Aerosmith, and Pearl Jam’s frontman Eddie Vedder, that hit the scene this year.

FRI - SAT: Rock music or singer-songwriters “We never play anything recorded here” he says with a smile. The method of bridging cultures at Porto di Mare is just getting out an instrument and beginning to play. “I’d be keen to talk to anyone who is interested in playing and sharing their music with us,” Francesco says. The club has also created its own big band, the Eskimo Jazz Orchestra. An all-star Tuscan jazz

fano Scalzi and guitarist Riccardo Onori, who both played alongside renowned Italian singer-songwriter and rapper Jovanotti; percussionists Walter Paoli, ex-member of 1970s Italian jazz, progressive rock and electronic group Area, and Piero Borri; clarinet player Nico Gori; and guitarists Paolo Conte, Ivano Fossati and Riccardo Galardini – to name just (a little more than) a few.

Traditionally homemade gelato since 1939

Via Dei Tavolini 19/R | 055 239 8969

SUN: TARANTA NIGHT: Popular southern Italian music and dance. Starts at 6 p.m. CONTACT FRANCESCO COFONE Via Pisana, 128 055 71 20 34 Porto di Mare

34 Florence News

TRAVEL

SEPTEMBER ISSUE www.florencenews.it

Sun and Fun: Visiting the Amalfi Coast with Smart Trip

Croatia’s Natural Beauty Unveiled

side town of Positano. Positano is made up of picturesque multi-colored buildings that cling to the cliff above the black sand and pebbled beaches. The Smart Trip tour includes transportation to the aforementioned areas, 3 nights of accommodation, breakfast on Friday, Saturday, and Sunday along with dinner on Friday and Saturday night. Visit smarttrip.it for more details and bookings for a memorable time at the Amalfi Coast.

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nied by fantastic views of beautiful, traditional cities built into the sloping cliffs. The first day of the trip includes breakfast and a ferry ride to the Island of Capri, one of the most spectacular Italian islands. There, visitors will journey to mystical places, to the home of many ancient myths, such as the site of the infamous sirens from Homer’s Odyssey, and to the world famous Blue Grotto: an accessible sea cave with sunlight that pierces the clear water, bringing out brilliant hues of blue and green. Travelers will then visit the sea-

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nown for its picturesque sights and serene beach atmosphere that attracts celebrities, weekend jetsetters and college students across the world, the Amalfi Coast is an Italian paradise. It’s located in the region of Campania, home to a variety of renowned destinations like Naples, Pompeii and the Island of Capri, particularly attractive in the months of March and April because of the cool weather, making a trip to Capri and the seaside towns of Positano and Sorrento ideal. The almighty Mt. Vesuvius greets Smart Trip travelers as it looms over the countryside, accompa-

5 Best Views in Amalfi Mount Solaro in Capri View from Positano beach looking at all the pastel color buildings Top of Mount Vesuvius overlooking Napoli Blue Grotto Pompeii

roatia’s natural beauty makes it one of the best destinations for outdoor activities like relaxing on the beach and admiring cultural wonders. Student travel company Smart Trip offers a convenient way to reach the country and an itinerary that covers must-see locations and exciting activities. The tour focuses on the medieval port town of Split located on Croatia’s pristine Dalmatian coast. On the first day, Smart Trip organizes an optional whitewater rafting trip on the Cetina River, an adventurous and scenic experience through one of Croatia’s great natural landmarks. Other adventures lay ahead, like spending the day laying on one of Split’s beaches, touring the Split’s historic city center, visiting the Diocletian Palace,

renting a bike and riding up Marjan Hill, or taking a day trip to the local surrounding towns, such as Omiš or the Krka Waterfalls. On the last day the group takes a trip to Krka, where a few hours are dedicated to swimming and exploring the magnificent waterfalls of the national park before heading back to Florence.

Croatia’s Five Gems Krka National park waterfalls Centa River Diocletian’s Palace Old Town Split Split’s Beaches and Coves

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MUNICH OKTOBERFEST WITH SMART TRIP

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CRAFT BEERS

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More Than Just Soccer

Discover alternative sports in Florence

occer dominates Italian sporting culture, yet there are several other sports one can engage in while in Florence. Whether you are looking to cheer on horses, catch a foul ball or see a sport that you have never heard of, Florence has many events to offer. Rugby: Although seen as the evil step-brother to both American football and soccer, rugby does have a presence in Florence. The city has multiple teams for people of all ages, so there is no telling who you will see playing when you go to the practice pitch. The senior team is called Aeroporto Firenze and still has a number of games to play before the season ends in May. Even though they aren’t professional, it would be fun to see a rugby game in Italy. For more information go to www.firenzerugby1931.it

Basketball: Although not the same status as the Los Angeles Lakers, Fiorentina does have its own professional basketball team. The team is called Enegan Firenze and is part of the Italia-DNA Silver league. The team plays other local cities such as Lucca, Roseto and Bari. Despite being in second to last place with an 8–14 record, the team would love international support. It would also be fun to see how Italian basketball compares to American basketball with

March Madness coming up! For more information go to www.affricobasketfirenze.com or call 055 53 85 922. The office is located at Viale Paoli, 20. Baseball: Baseball is a great sport to watch with spring right around the corner. MLB spring training won’t start for a while, so why not take the time to visit another team? The Fiorentina baseball field is located a couple of blocks from the Fiorentina soccer stadium and is wonderful to go watch on an afternoon. The team is currently in Series C but has had success in the past in Series A. For more information go to www.fiorentinabaseball. it or email info@fiorentinabaseball.it. American Football: Just because Americans are the only ones who watch it, doesn’t mean they are the only ones who play it! Guelfi Firenze is the American football team in Florence and currently plays in the second league under the Italian Federation of American Football. Although the season is over, the team would love to play with Americans. Spend an afternoon with the team running up and down the field, catching footballs or showing them how good you are at the American sport. For more information go to www. guelfifirenze.it or call 339 70 12 020.

Florence News 37

SPORT

Become a Fiorentina Fan FIORENTINA SEPTEMBER FIXTURIES Sunday, Sept. 10, 3 p.m. Serie A National League VERONA - FIORENTINA Saturday, Sept. 16, 3 p.m. Serie A National League FIORENTINA - BOLOGNA

How to get to the stadium: BY SHUTTLE BUS: Bus no. 52 runs services from Piazza Stazione at Santa Maria Novella train station during the two hours preceding the game. The same shuttle runs return services up to an hour after the game finishes. From Rifredi train station take bus no. 54. These buses are usually packed, so if you have a chance to take the earlier one I recommend it. HOW TO GET TICKETS: Stadium tickets typically cost anywhere from €20–70. They can be bought from online retailers or at authorized kiosks. The kiosk near the Piazza della Republica (right off Via Pellicceria) is a common

dealer. The best place to sit in the stadium is on the sideline so that you can see all the action. Sitting behind a goal is not ideal because it is difficult to view the action on the opposite side of the field. However, these seats are usually the cheapest. Make sure that, under no circumstances, you sit in the visitor section. This section is physically barricaded from the rest of the stadium, and the visiting fans who find themselves outside of this designated section are separated from the rest of the crowd by a human shield of security guards. Despite these precautions, tensions can get heated, so prepare for some rowdy scenes. But do not fear; it’s all part of the authentic experience of a Florentine soccer match.

Opening hours: Mon. to Sat.: 8:30 a.m.–7:30 p.m. Via de’ Ginori, 26/r 055 23 81 143 miranna.lomartire@gmail.com

Sunday, Sept. 24, 8:45 p.m. Serie A National League FIORENTINA - ATALANTA

For more info about Fiorentina see www.violachannel.it

NEW GYM NEAR SANTA MARIA NOVELLA

SNACK BAR ANNA THE BAGEL POINT Enjoy the relaxing atmosphere and the jumbo cappuccinos while having a chat with Anna and Stefano, who will welcome you in a warm and friendly way. Grab one of the many homemade bagels, the bar’s perfected specialty since 1990. These bagels and sandwiches have made this snack spot one of the most popular among local Americans. While taking a break in the back seating area you will be pleased to experience the no-charge table service, which places Snack Bar Anna far from the ‘tourist traps’ in the city.

Wednesday, Sept. 20, 8:45 p.m. Serie A National League JUVENTUS - FIORENTINA

LUX TUESDAY

BEST HIP HOP NIGHT PARTY IN FLORENCE FRIDAY

THE HOUSE OF HIP HOP Via dei Pandolfini, 26r 347 381 8294

For the full program check our facebook page

Brand new gym in the heart of Florence is now open. • Fully outfitted with the latest cardio & strength equipment from Technogym • Offering a wide array of classes ranging from Zumba to Pilates, every week • All-inclusive memberships with no sign-up fees • Special pricing for students • Friendly English-speaking staff • Free wi-fi Mon. to Fri.: 8 a.m.-10 p.m, Saturday: 10 a.m.-6 p.m, Sunday: 10 a.m.-1 p.m. Via dei Fossi, 56/r 055 23 96 497

38 Florence News

CITY GUIDE

SEPTEMBER ISSUE www.florencenews.it

MUSEUMS & MONUMENTS Cappelle Medicee The Old Sacristy, the New Sacristy, with architecture and sculpture by Michelangelo, and the Chapel of the Princes, decorated with inlaid marble and hard stones. P.zza Madonna degli Aldobrandini, 6 Tel: +39.055.294883 Hours: 8.15-17.00 Closed: 2nd, 4th Sunday; 1st, 2nd, 5th Monday of month

Galleria degli Uffizi Open since 1591, the Uffizi hosts one of the most important collections of art of all time, classical sculpture and 13th to 18th century paintings Loggiato degli Uffizi Tel: +39.005.294883 Hours: 8.15-18.50 Closed: Mondays

Palazzo Vecchio Quartieri Monumentali Residence of the Priors, the Signoria and the Medici. Paintings, sculpture, furniture and hangings. Piazza della Signoria Tel: +39.005.2768224 Hours: Sept: 9-24 - Thursdays 9-14 Oct: 9-19 - Thursdays 9-14.

Galleria dell’Accademia Michelangelo’s masterpieces: the David and the Slaves. Sculpture, paintings and casts by various artists. Via Ricasoli, 60 Tel: +39.005.294883 Hours: 8.15-18.50 Closed: Mondays

Museo del Bargello Residence of the Captain of the People, of Justice and ancient prison. Masterpieces of painting and sculpture, plus minor arts. Frescoes by the school of Giotto in the Chapel. Via del Proconsolo, 4 Tel: +39.005.294883 Hours: 8.15-17.00. Closed: 2nd, 4th Sunday; 1st, 3rd, 5th Monday of month.

Battistero di San Giovanni Romanesque temple dedicated to St. John the Baptist, patron saint of the city. Outside, the doors by Ghiberti. Piazza San Giovanni Tel: +39.055.2302885 Hours: 11.15-18.30 - Sundays, 1st Saturday of month 8.30-13.30.

Campanile di Giotto Famous bell tower, a masterpiece of Gothic architecture by Giotto, built between 1334 and 1359. Piazza del Duomo Tel: +39.055.2302885 Hours: 8.30-18.50. Closed: Easter.

Galleria d’Arte Moderna Paintings and sculptures related to the art in Tuscany from the late 18th century to the period between the two world wars. Temporary shows of contemporary art. Piazza Pitti Tel: +39.055 294883 Hours: 8.15-18.50. Closed: Mondays.Fri, Sat, Sun 9.00 18.00. Thur 9.00 - 14.00.

Cupola di Brunelleschi The masterpiece of Brunelleschi. Frescoes of the Last Judgement by Federico Zuccari. Suggestive itinerary to the top of the dome with breathtaking views over the city. Piazza del Duomo Tel: +39.005.2302885 Hours: 8.30-18.20 - Saturdays 8.3017.00pm. Closed: Sundays and Easter day.

Galleria Palatina e Appartamenti Reali The Palatine Gallery occupies the whole left wing of the first floor of the Pitti Palace, which was the residence of the Medici grand-dukes. In 1828, when Tuscany came under the rule of the Lorraine, the most important paintings in the Palace, most of which had been collected by the Medici. Piazza Pitti Tel: +39.055.294883 Hours: 8.15-18.50 Closed: Mondays

Giardino Bardini These beautiful gardens, recently restored, contain many rare plants and specialised areas, such as Italian and English gardens, as well as a fine Baroque staircase, statues, fountains, a small amphitheater and panoramic views. Entrances: Via dei Bardi, 1 r and Boboli Gardens. Info and reservations: Tel: +39.055.294883 Hours: 8.15-18.30 Closed: 1st and last Monday of month.

In Florence there is a new pharmacy

Cavour Come to visit us. You will find a wide range of skincare products dedicated to you. Ask your pharmacist for advice.

Lloyds Farmacia Cavour Via Cavour, 59/R Firenze We are open for you: Monday to Saturday 9.00 - 20.00

Tattoo Piercing Via degli alfani 32/r Firenze +39 344 20 48 393 +39 342 75 47 804 Fb: Blood Brotherhood

#bloodbhtattoo

THE RESTAURANT OF THE FLORENTINES Located on Via Ghibellina near Santa Croce, Da Que’ Ganzi offers a fresh seafood and meat menu for both lunch and dinner. Tuscan specialties include ribollita and authentic Florentine steak, and all of the cakes and sweets are homemade. A special weekday lunch menu for less than €10 makes the restaurant affordable for anyone. Special dishes: BAKED SEA BASS & TUSCAN STEAK Mon. to Sun.: 12–2:30 p.m. & 7–11:30 p.m. Closed on Tuesdays. Via Ghibellina, 70/r •055 22 60 010 www.daqueiganzi.it • info@daqueiganzi.it

Museo delle Porcellane Collections of porcelain from reigning royal families. Palazziana del Cavaliere, Boboli Gardens, Piazza Pitti, 1 Tel: +39.055.294883 Hours:8.15-18.30 Closed: 1st and last Monday of month

Museo degli Argenti Summer apartments of the Grand Dukes. It contains vases in hard stone that belonged to Lorenzo the Magnificent, and the jewellery that belonged to the Electress Palatine. Piazza Pitti Tel: +39.055.294883 Hours: 8.15-18.30 Closed: 1st and last Monday of month.

Museo Novecento Italian art of the 20th century, in a journey backwards from the Nineties to the first decades of the century. Piazza Santa Maria Novella Tel: +39.055 286132 Hours: Oct to March- Mon, Tue, Wed, Fri, Sat, Sun 9.00 - 18.00. Thur 9.00 14.00.

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CITY GUIDE TOURIST INFORMATION SOS

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Emergency Phone Number: 113 Ambulance Service: 118 Carabinieri (National Military Police): 112 Environmental Emergency: 1515 Fire Department: 115

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The Firenzecard is a way for tourists and locals alike to visit the countless museums the city has to offer. For 72€, the card includes the cost of entrance, the ticket for Accad emia the exhibition, and the reserva39 tion for all the museums of €the Firenzecard Circuit.The card lasts 72 hours after it is activated. Activation occurs when the Uffizi - Accademia - City Tour card is used for the first time at Priority entrance tickets Small Groups or Private Ones a museum. SKIP THE LINE Cardholders do not need to BOOK NOW! booking@keysofflorence.com make any reservation with Fi+39 324 075 6714 More info and tours: renzecard because it includes, www.keysofflorence.com in its price, the reservation for all the museums. With Firenzecard, cardholders can visit the museums when they choose and can access to the museums through the reserved entrance. Firenzecard can be used at 67 museums, but it can only be used once per museum. The card cannot be shared or transferred. For more information on the card or to purchase one, visit www.firenzecard.it

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Piazza Duomo: 055 212221 Open Pharmacies: 800 420707 Veterinary Services: 055 7223683 Poison Center: 055 7947819

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Uffizi 42€ Academy Gallery 39€ SKIP THE LINE Uffizi - Accademia - City Tour Priority entrance tickets Small Groups or Private Ones BOOK NOW! booking@keysofflorence.com +39 324 075 6714 More info and tours: www.keysofflorence.com

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Via Cavour, 1r - 055 290833 Vespucci Airport - 055 315874 Piazza del Duomo - 055 215440 Piazza Stazione, 4 - 055 212245

ON THE ROAD Roadside Assistance for Foreigners: 800 116800 Obstruction, theft, and towed vehicles: 055 4224142 Highways, route planning and traffic jams: www.autostrade.it/en

LAW ENFORCEMENT

Your Private Concierge in Florence Every day problem solving - Workshops Access to treasures off the beaten path Property finding. Ask with confidence

Railway Police: 055 211012 Florence Municipal Police: 055 3283333 Local National Police Force: 055 49771 Fire and Rescue Service: 055 24901

BUSES

AIRPORTS A Vespucci, Firenze Peretola: www.aeroporto.firenze.it/en 055 3061300 Lost and found: 055 3061302 G. Galilei, Pisa: www.pisa-airport.com 050 849300 Lost and found: 050 849400

Ataf: 6 a.m.-9 p.m. : 800424500 Li-nea: Bus info, 055 7355742 FBUSITALIA: SITA NORD: www.fsbusitalia. it, 800 373760

TOURIST INFO POINTS

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TAXIS

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