Portfolio 2013
inform
2 - 27
The website
4 - 5
The partner Maisons
6 - 7
The online magazine
8 - 9
HH MAG, an annual publication
10 - 11
Fine Watch Journals
12
The Mastery of Time, now in simplified Chinese
13
The FHH supports the Responsible Jewellery Council
14
RICHEMONT : a group-wide commitment
15
5th Forum de la Haute Horlogerie
16 - 19
Horology, a child of astronomy
20 - 23
Swiss Day Against Counterfeiting
24 - 27
train
28 - 33
FHH initiations to watchmaking
30 - 31
The Van Cleef & Arpels school
32 - 33
a world view Question to the Cultural Council
34 - 43 36 - 39
Worldwide delegations
40
The FHH and its world
41
“Hommage à la Passion” and “Hommage au Talent” awards
Press clippings
42 - 43
44 - 55
editorial FABIENNE LUPO Chairwoman and Managing Director, Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
For the second consecutive year, the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH) publishes HH Minutes, a page by page account of the main actions undertaken by the Foundation to promote and perpetuate the art of time measurement. Expertise | Collectors know full well that Fine Watchmaking is a world of expertise, a science as well as an art. But are the general public, tomorrow’s enthusiasts, as familiar with the complexities that lie beneath the dial? Doubtless no, which is why, eight years ago, the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie was formed with precise objectives. These include training and informing on a singular profession composed of multiple skills. Thus the FHH is built on a unifying principle for the benefit of an entire corporation, many of whose members have recognised the value of its work and ensure that ours remains a fabulous, living adventure. Sharing | Our action is therefore driven by a sense of sharing. Sharing information through our publications, from the Foundation’s content-rich website to the online magazine with its unique mix of subjects, or HH Mag in print which considers Fine Watchmaking from a new angle. Not forgetting exhibitions and catalogues which travel to venues all over the world, or the annual Forum de la Haute Horlogerie where tomorrow’s burning issues are debated. Of course this notion of sharing extends to training those with a professional or simply passing interest in watches and watchmaking, thereby disseminating the essential gestures and understanding which, today as in centuries past, position the instruments of time measurement at the vanguard of scientific progress and the métiers d’art. Responsibility | It is the Foundation’s responsibility to undertake its action wherever it is useful and needed, which is on all five continents. This responsibility is also engaged in respect for ethical values which are progressing throughout the profession, in particular via the Responsible Jewellery Council which the Foundation supports, or in the battle against counterfeiting, with the 2013 Swiss Day Against Counterfeiting organised by the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry alongside the FHH. Multiple projects and achievements, international reach in the form of its delegations, and objectives for the future: the FHH is all this and more. This has been an exciting and promising journey, and we are only part way there. But as Paul Morand reminds us, for time to respect us, we must respect time.
1 |
inform 4 |
m
Share the culture of Fine Watchmaking
Fine Watchmaking is a world of its own within the luxury segment. Carried by more than forty skilled professions, rooted in centuries of history, shaped by scientific discoveries past and present, it is both a complex and artistic activity. Information is vital if we are to understand its full scope.
5 |
inform
6 |
inform
The website The FHH website, www.hautehorlogerie.org, is intended as an ever expanding encyclopaedia for every aspect of watchmaking. True to its role to inform, the website relaunched in 2013 with a fresh design and revised, reorganised content. From the very beginning, the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie has used the Internet to best fulfil one of its priority missions, namely to inform and promote understanding of the incredible body of expertise contained inside every wristwatch. This is no small challenge, given the number and diversity of professions involved. Indeed, Fine Watchmaking is
as much about industrial production as the decorative arts, as much about nextgeneration technology as handcrafting, scientific breakthroughs as history. The FHH website is all this at once, inventoried, classified, illustrated and filmed with the ongoing aim to provide more and clearer information. This philosophy is reflected in every aspect of the site’s new interface. Original graphics, easy navigation, exhaustive content and daily updates are just some of the attractions which the site - www. hautehorlogerie.org - now boasts. Whatever query a user may have in mind, be it terminology or training, to take just two examples, the site provides the answer. Just as it answers collectors’ insatiable need to always learn more about the object of their attention. In the eight years since its launch, the FHH website has compiled and maintains an unparalleled database, making it a foremost reference in its field.
Presentation of the history of watchmaking in context
Close to 600 words defined and illustrated, in 4 languages
Vacancies at partner-brands
27 partner Maisons Content in 4 languages
1,400 encyclopedia pages 27,000 Newsletter subscribers
7 |
inform
8 |
inform
The partner Maisons Fine Watchmaking is first and foremost a living entity, populated by the illustrious names that write its history and establish its laws through exceptional timepieces. Through beauty and creativity, technical innovation, and a command of the watchmaking professions and the mÊtiers d’art, these Maisons are able to simultaneously perpetuate tradition and forge the contemporary history of time measurement.
9 |
inform
10 |
inform
The online magazine As a complement to its encyclopaedic content, the FHH website hosts an online magazine. Reporting daily on the latest developments in watchmaking, it is probably the most comprehensive online publication on timepieces. The two go hand-in-hand. The original intention to propose an encyclopaedia of knowledge on watchmaking was quickly joined by the desire to inform on the profession’s current events. Once again this was no small endeavour, for the project had greater ambitions than to simply be a channel for brand communication. And so a full-fledged editorial line emerged for an online magazine which had to cover the broadest possible spectrum of time measurement. True to this vocation, articles examine themes as diverse as the economy, history,
industrial production, auction sales, new technologies and decorative arts. Not forgetting the products and players that endlessly renew the fascination of Fine Watches. Today’s Fine Watchmaking has the world as its stage, and so the magazine features reports from journalists based in the sector’s main export markets and relays news directly from companies in the branch. The online HH Magazine, part of the FHH website, delivers the immediacy of information that has become an all-important criterion for the community of watchmaking aficionados. Covering every subject in depth, the Foundation’s online magazine keeps its public informed on a culture and unique values to which only a far-ranging voice can do justice.
An exceptional diversity of subjects in a single magazine
11 |
inform
inform
HH MAG, an annual publication HH MAG, whose third issue rolls off the presses in January 2014, has settled into its stride. With iconography close to that of an art book and content that considers watchmaking from outside the box, it beckons readers into its pages…
contributing to a collective memory, and the longevity and recognition this brings. This introspective look at watches and their world is put into words by experts writing in the national and international press; by free-thinkers who consider the guardians of time and its measurement from a quasi psychoanalytical standpoint. This original approach to watchmaking’s professions, products and markets is matched by the utmost concern for aesthetic. In this respect, HH MAG isn’t just another title in an editorial sphere that must answer to commercial pressures. With several hundred thousand copies distributed each year as a supplement to the Financial Times, HH MAG invites us to look again at a world that has made tick-tock the most delightful sound.
With HH MAG, the Foundation shows Fine Watchmaking from a different angle, where the practical challenges facing the profession are treated from the point of view of culture and insight. HH MAG addresses a much broader public than the industry’s inner circle. Each year it keeps its promise to deliver information that sparks reflection, invites discernment, and creates a community of shared values. The ideas it contains nurture an identity unique to Fine Watchmaking. HH MAG travels off the beaten track,
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Dressage
Boîtier en acier. Fonctions heures, minutes, . . . . . . . seconde au centre, quantième par guichet à 6h. Mouvement à remontage automatique. . x 38,4 . mm . . . . . 40,5
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. FormulA . . 1 lAdy . yin. yAnG .
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TAG Heuer Boîtier en or blanc. Fonctions heures, minutes. Cadran, boîtier et bracelet sertis de diamants. . . . . . . . Mouvement à quartz. Ø 32 mm
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13 |
inform
Fine Watch Journals The Foundation’s Fine Watch Journals lay important groundwork for the profession. The first provides a full inventory of market surveys in the luxury segment; the second is a compilation of the year’s new launches. The first Journal originated in response to the sheer number and diversity of market surveys on luxury in general, and Fine Watchmaking in particular. The value and importance of these surveys are beyond doubt. Conducted “down
Directory of market studies for luxury and Fine Watchmaking in 2013 Fine Watch Journals
July 2013
14 |
on the ground”, they are the keys to understanding the current context and thus be better armed for the future. The main consumer trends, up-and-coming markets, insight into online sales: these surveys provide a 360° view of research into luxury products and their inherent appeal. In this respect, this first Journal paves the way for an academic view of Fine Watchmaking. Doubtless Fine Watchmaking wouldn’t be what it is without the innovations and new products which, year after
year, are a window on the profession’s expertise, and why deny ourselves the pleasure of contemplating the view through this window at leisure. With this in mind, the FHH’s second Journal, the only publication of its kind, presents the year’s new timepieces from the sixty-some brands within the Fine Watch perimeter. These original, innovative products are reviewed inside its pages, with specifications and informative commentary for each one. The whole of Fine Watchmaking at a glance.
inform
The Mastery of Time, now in simplified Chinese An authoritative reference work, written by Dominique Fléchon, historian and expert with the FHH, and prefaced by Franco Cologni, after versions in French and English, The Mastery of Time is now published in simplified Chinese. It traces the measurement of time from the earliest instruments to the present day. A market that accounts for, at the very least, one third of Swiss watch exports couldn’t be overlooked. China has indeed become a prime destination for Swiss watchmakers and, for this very reason, the most talked-about book on the subject of time had to have its Chinese translation. Mission accomplished. The Mastery of Time, patiently
committed to paper by Dominique Fléchon, is now available in simplified Chinese. It traces Man’s ongoing quest, since his very first steps on Earth, to conquer his temporal environment. Furthermore, The Mastery of Time has given rise to an exhibition that relates five centuries of time measurement and which has travelled to venues around the world. Each staging has been a unique opportunity to plumb the depths of horological creation. Written to satisfy the public’s thirst for knowledge, The Mastery of Time continues to relate the pivotal moments in Man’s progression towards precision timekeeping, in the languages of its admirers.
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inform
The FHH supports the Responsible Jewellery Council
Building a responsible diamond, gold and platinum metals supply chain from mine to customer.
The Responsible Jewellery Council is an international, not-for-profit organisation established to reinforce consumer confidence in the jewellery industry by advancing responsible business practices throughout the diamond, gold and platinum group metals jewellery supply chain.
Mission: to advance responsible ethical, social and environmental practices, which respect human rights, throughout the diamond, gold and platinum group metals
The Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) is a not-for-profit organisation which sets standards and certifies ethically and socially responsible practices across the entire jewellery production chain. Details from Catherine Sproule, Chief Executive of RJC, and Bernard Fornas, Co-Chief Executive of Richemont who companies, RJC and its Members are committed to describes the commitment of an entire group.
jewellery supply chain, from mine to retail.
Bringing together more than 415 member
promoting responsible ethical, human rights, social and environmental practices in a transparent and
accountable manner throughout the jewellery industry from mine to retail. What has RJC accomplished since it was established?
RJC has grown from 14 founding Members to over 460 in seven years. That represents a 20% growth each year of jewellery industry stakeholders taking the issues of social that contribute to the diamond, gold and platinum metals jewellery supply chain. All Certified responsibility and responsible business practices into the core of their business. It is also Members of the RJC are audited by accredited, third partynoteworthy auditors to verify conformance with Members are now certified and some have re-certithattheir over 300 of those the RJC’s Code of Practices. fied – all to the end goal of consistently showing their customers, business partners and external stakeholders their commitment to these issues. The RJC has developed the RJC Member Certification system which applies to all Members’ businesses
A voluntary Chain-of-Custody Standard has also been developed for gold and platinum group metals. CATHERINE SPROULE The RJC is a FullResponsible Member of the ISEAL Alliance – the global association for sustainability standards. Jewellery Council CEO Would you say consumers are aware of RJC’s work?
RJC’s Members believe they deal with consumers that truly care about the jewellery products they purchase. Associating a lovely piece of jewellery with ethical sourcing, manufacturing and selling practices completes the circle of confidence. Through 2014, RJC is examining just those types of impacts after its seven years of operation. We look forward to presenting that work to our Members and our external audiences.
For more information on RJC Members, Certification, and Standards please visit www.responsiblejewellery.com
RJC Website: www.responsiblejewellery.com RJC Email: info@responsiblejewellery.com
For a brand, is RJC certification about marketing edge or genuine ethical awareness? It is a combination of marketing edge and ethical awareness and both are equally good reasons to pursue certification with RJC. There is a consumer expectation that a brand believes these practices are essential and has them in place, inherent in the brand’s “DNA” if you will. Can we realistically expect one day to “clean up” the entire production chain? This is certainly the goal of RJC and the strong engagement platform it has with related industry efforts. One of the founding principles of RJC was to harmonise and synergise industry efforts addressing the challenging issues facing the industry. In November 2013, RJC released its new Code of Practices, the bedrock of certification. Through the eighteen-month consultation period, over 500 responses were tabled across members, industry and external stakeholders that demonstrate a belief that RJC must continue to dedicate itself to helping the industry achieve certification as a demonstration of a commitment to production integrity.
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inform
RICHEMONT : a group-wide commitment BERNARD FORNAS
Richemont, particularly through Cartier as a founding Member, has been a driving force behind the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC). Have utopian beginnings become reality? This was never about utopia. This has always been about a very real and strong commitment. We hold a unique position in the jewellery segment and as such we have a duty to lead by example. In 2005, Cartier was one of the 14 founding Members whose ambition was to bring onboard stakeholders across the entire chain, from mine to retail, then implement a code of practice for the profession. That same year, Piaget and Van Cleef & Arpels joined the ranks and since then all our Maisons have become Members.
Co-Chief Executive Officer Richemont International SA
RJC Members
We have made RJC a powerful force. It is internationally acknowledged as the leading standards-setting organisation for our industry, and is a full member of the ISEAL Alliance. RJC recently reviewed its Code of Practices, assisted by globally active NGOs. We have close to 500 Members, 310 of which have attained Code of Practices certification. Seven Members have received Chain of Custody certification for their gold. We’re moving in the right direction and we are proud of what we have accomplished so far. This remains an ambitious project and one which can only be built over the long term.
Maisons
Since
Cartier
May 2005
Piaget
October 2005
Van Cleef & Arpels
October 2005
Montblanc
July 2007
Baume & Mercier
March 2008
Jaeger-LeCoultre
March 2008
Vacheron Constantin
August 2010
Ralph Lauren
May 2012
A. Lange & Söhne
August 2012
IWC
September 2012
Roger Dubuis
November 2012
Officine Panerai
November 2012
The Net-A-Porter Group
November 2012
Giampiero Bodino
May 2013
Manufacturers VV SA, Varinor
February 2010
Creazioni
February 2012
Manufacture horlogère ValFleurier
October 2012
Donzé-Baume
November 2012
Manufacture Stern 1898
November 2012
Supporters Compagnie Financière Richemont
January 2007
Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
November 2012
RJC certification is a long and complex process. Do brands see it as having commercial value? We are continuing in our objective to integrate ethical standards which respect people and the environment. The customers who purchase watches or jewellery made in our Maisons’ workshops and manufacturing facilities expect nothing less than this. They know that we set ourselves an extremely high standard, and that this means not only doing but doing right. Soon all Richemont’s Maisons will have certification. Would you call this a success? Every Richemont Maison and entity in the gold/diamond/platinum chain - nineteen in all - are Members. The vast majority are certified and the others are in the process of certification. It’s a success but most of all the beginning of a new adventure: to establish with our partners a virtuous circle ensuring that, from the mine to the boutique, our products and their components comply with the highest standards of human rights and environmental protection. We invite all our partners to become part of this momentum. For a number of years already, we have alerted our partners to these issues and a lot of them have chosen the RJC standards system, and are working towards certification. What will be RJC’s next challenges? Currently, RJC covers the gold, platinum and diamond supply chains. It is considering extending its scope to other metals and precious stones.
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inform
5th Forum de la Haute Horlogerie
The 5th Forum de la Haute Horlogerie had paradox as its theme, a concept whereby events seem to defy all logic in their apparent contradictions. Such antinomies are legion in these early years of the 21st century.
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The world is changing, challenging our thought processes and perception of our environment, and creating paradoxical situations along the way. Economic growth is producing unprecedented wealth, yet the gap between rich and poor widens. Continents that once stood on the sidelines, beginning with Africa, are seen as the new driving forces for development. The internet places knowledge at our fingertips but also raises the spectre of cybercrime. Switzerland’s competitiveness is admired but also envied, and the country must defend its position and financial institutions. These themes were at the centre of debate at this 5th Forum de la Haute Horlogerie, an event designed as a platform for high-level exchange and debate.
Economists such as Carlos A. Primo Braga, a specialist on Latin America, and emerging-markets expert Charles Robertson, authors including Jacques Attali, a former advisor to President François Mitterrand, politicians such as Pascal Broulis, state councillor for the Swiss Canton of Vaud, experts such as Mikko Hypponen, a specialist in cybercriminality, and demographer Sarah Harper, not forgetting Rory Sutherland, a respected analyst of contemporary economic trends, and Uli Sigg, a leading collector of Chinese art, proposed some of the keys to understanding this new reality.
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1. Jacques Attali, author and strategist 2. Pascal Broulis, Vaud state councillor 3. Charles Robertson, emerging-markets expert 4. Sarah Harper, demographer 5. Carlos A. Primo Braga, economist, director of The Evian Group@IMD 6. Rory Sutherland, behavioural economist 7. Mikko Hypponen, cybercrime expert 8. Uli Sigg, art collector, expert on China
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Claude Vuillemet, Jean-Daniel Pasche, Albert Kaufmann 5 Alexander Schmiedt, Thomas Mao 6 Estelle Fallet, Dominique Fléchon 7 Marco Cattaneo, Catherine and Jean-Marc Wiederrecht 8 Romain Gauthier, Jean-Philippe Arm 9 Stanislas de Quercize, Daniel Riedo 10 Denis Pury, Jean-Michel Piguet 11 Mingming Dou, Uli Sigg, Gu Lipei 12 Arnd Einhorn, Ding Zhixiang 13 Gregory Gardinetti, Dmitry Yeremeev
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14 Michael Tay, Maximilien Büsser 15 Guy Chatillon, Juan-Carlos Torres, Anne Guimond Kostecki 16 Alexander Linz, Stephen Forsey 17 Tibère Adler,
Olivier Baudry 18 Pascal Broulis, Carlos A. Primo Braga, Fabienne Lupo, Dominique Turpin, Uli Sigg 19 Marine Lemonnier-Brennan, Thierry Castagna, Fabienne Reybaud 20 Christian Hübner, Béatrice Vuille-Willemetz, Christopher Cordey 21 Philippe Dufour, Nicolas Clements 22 Henry-John Belmont, Franco Cologni, Richard Lepeu 23 Nicolas Henchoz, Eric Merk, Olivier Audemars, Jasmine Audemars 24 Florence Notter, Jean-Pierre Greff 25 Gianfranco Ritschel, Carlo Lamprecht 26 Philippe Bequelin (Mix & Remix), Eric Giroud
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Horology, a cHild of astronomy | l’Horlogerie, fille de l’astronomie
inform
Horology,
a cHild
of astronomy
l’Horlogerie, fille de l’astronomie
inform
HOROLOGY,
A CHILD
OF ASTRONOMY The new exhibition from the FHH The Salón Internacional Alta Relojería in Mexico City then SalonQP in London were host to the new exhibition from the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie. Horology, a child of astronomy looks at time measurement in its relation to the heavenly bodies.
which convey the magic and mystery of the universe. The exhibition celebrates the genius of revolutionary thinkers and of those who continue to show that a watch is far more than just an object that gives the time; it is the product of a fabulous human adventure.
From the earliest times to the present day, horologists have created representations of the Cosmos, first as scientific instruments and now objects of desire for astronomers and enthusiasts alike. This fabulous discovery of the mechanisms of the Sun, Earth, Moon and Universe allows for a finer understanding of the astronomical complications which are now transposed to the wristwatch, with moon phases, perpetual calendars, annual calendars and other equally fascinating mechanisms
Like The Mastery of Time, this exhibition draws on research by Dominique Fléchon, historian and expert with the FHH. Accompanied by a catalogue raisonné, it travels to the 2014 Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie in Geneva. The Foundation’s mission to inform is embodied in this spectacular presentation of the advances made in time measurement through observations of the stars and planets; an endeavour all the more significant as it laid the foundations for today’s enumeration of time.
The exhibition catalogue
23 |
inform
HOROLOGY,
A CHILD
OF ASTRONOMY
24 |
inform
The exhibition at SIAR, QP and Belles Montres
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inform
Swiss Day Against Counterfeiting Swiss Day Against Counterfeiting alerts the public to the damage caused by the counterfeiting industry. The latest edition put the emphasis on creative thinking with competitions to produce posters and short films. Held under the aegis of Stop Piracy, the Swiss anti-counterfeiting and piracy platform, the 2013 event, on March 22nd, was organised by the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry in collaboration with the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie. Also taking part in this national day were the pharmaceutical and audiovisual sectors, two other branches which rank among the main victims of counterfeiting. They were represented by Interpharma, Swissmedic and Safe.
This was the first time a poster and short-film competition had been organised to coincide with the day. Open to the general public and students at Swiss art and design schools, entries had to raise awareness of the implications of fake goods. Lausanne University of Art and Design (Ecal), Geneva University of Art and Design (Head), and the Geneva Film School (ECG) were all in the startingblocks. Members of the public were invited to take part by submitting their short films online. These different competitions more than lived up to expectations. Far from being a pure exercise in style, the winning entries - whose authors were presented with watches generously donated by a dozen watch companies - were shown in cinemas and published in the press. The organisations involved in this Swiss Day Against Counterfeiting gave films and posters additional exposure on their websites, proving that they are indeed “all together against fakes.” Counterfeiting finances organised crime, destroys jobs and undermines innovation. Consumers who know the facts of counterfeiting won’t fund this criminal activity, and young people must be in the frontline of this fight against fakes.
The watchmakers which sponsored the event: Baume & Mercier, Breitling, Chanel, Chopard, IWC, Longines, La montre Hermès, Oris, TAG Heuer, Raymond Weil, Zenith 26 |
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Swiss Day Against Counterfeiting
The winners Short-film competition, open to the public 13 films in competition for two prizes Jury’s Prize and Public’s Prize • Un Homme : Swiss Made, Raphaël Tschudi and Arnaud Baur
Short-film competition Geneva Film School (ECG) and Geneva University of Art and Design (Head) 17 films in competition for five prizes • • • •
Moon light 1, Lorenzo Di Ciaccia, Head Carton, Guillaume Vautier and Michael Martin, Head Le cinéma est mort, Joël Baud, ECG Témoignages pharma, 6 séquences, Malena Azzam, ECG
Jury’s Special Prize • Tout du lard, Mei Fa Tan and Basile Manent, ECG
Poster competition Lausanne University of Art and Design (Ecal) Some thirty posters in competition for four prizes • Belle de loin, loin d’être belle, Manon Wertenbroek, Ecal • La fesse cachée, Laurence Rasti, Ecal • Contrefaçon, Jean-Vincent Simonet, Ecal Jury’s Special Prize • Cher contrefacteur, Sabrina Gruhne, Ecal
The judges Jean-Daniel Pasche, FH – President Fabienne Lupo, FHH – Chairwoman and Managing Director Roger Chevallaz, Reflecta AG Thomas Cueni, Interpharma – Secretary General Nicolas Henchoz, EPFL+Ecal Lab – Director Christine Laï, Unifab – Director Catherine Manigley, Swissmedic – Head of pharmaceutical market control Frédéric Mermoud – Film-maker Zep (Philippe Chappuis) – Comic-strip artist
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1. Belle de loin, loin d’être belle, Manon Wertenbroek 2. La fesse cachée, Laurence Rasti 3. Contrefaçon, Jean-Vincent Simonet Jury’s Special Prize 4. Cher contrefacteur, Sabrina Gruhne
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in
Pass on the culture and expertise of Fine Watchmaking For any knowledge-based economy, training is the key to growth. Whether young generations acquiring the basic skills of their future profession or continuing education for people already in employment, the importance of training can never be overestimated. Fine Watchmaking is first concerned, for it brings together numerous professions that take root in centuries past and whose continuity is paramount to its future.
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train
FHH initiations to watchmaking With its initiation workshops, the FHH offers the general public and brands’ staff the fascinating experience of taking apart then assembling a mechanical movement, under the watchful eye of professionals. A chance to discover what lies beneath the dial.
It’s been several years since the FHH launched its initiations to watchmaking and their success shows no sign of abating, such is the extent of the public’s curiosity and desire to learn more about mechanical watches. Whether in Geneva, where monthly sessions welcome members of the public, as part of the major watch fairs, or for brand employees, they never fail to capture the attention and send a little wave of pride through participants who, after four hours of concentration, see their movement spring to life. A sense of accomplishment that comes when a mechanical movement has revealed its secrets before the eyes of a would-be watchmaker who is nonetheless only too aware that this is just the tip of the iceberg.
its mystery. For anyone with an interest in mechanical watchmaking, and their numbers are growing, these workshops are a first step into a world where the infinitely small merges with the genius of time measurement. And perhaps the spark for some new vocations…
Crown wheel 420
415 Ratchet wheel
425 Click
These innovative workshops grant every horophile’s wish to plunge into this complex maze of wheels, gears, pinions, bridges, balance and spring. The very one revealed through the sapphire crystal backs of today’s wristwatches, and which inevitably sparks a surge of admiration as well as the irresistible urge to unravel
430 Click spring 105 Barrel bridge
Train wheel bridge 110
Centre wheel 201
3024
303/5 Regulator assembly
Third wheel 210
375
Second wheel 220 180/1 Barrel Escape wheel 705
121/3 Balance bridge 721 Balance
125 Pallet bridge
710 Pallet
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train
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train
The Van Cleef & Arpels school In 2012, Van Cleef & Arpels opened a school that lifts the veil on the very private world of a watchmaker and jeweller. The FHH is partner to the school for instruction in the measurement of time.
Share, explain, in a word initiate the public as to what lies at the heart of these exceptional skills: this is the philosophy behind École Van Cleef & Arpels. The school is open to everyone, from the merely curious to those who are captivated by beauty and wish to become enlightened amateurs through a progressive learning process. The school’s ambition is to convey both intellectually and emotionally the essence of jewellery and watchmaking, and instil confidence through experience. The school, already an immense success, has structured its programme around three themes - the history of art, gemstones, and savoir-faire - which are explained in some fifteen classes. Lessons are taught once a month in Paris, in a magnificent stone mansion on Place Vendôme, and are also proposed as travelling versions according to demand. As part of the curriculum, the Foundation teaches History of Time, History of Mankind, a study of the 32 |
gradual conquest of time from the Mesopotamians to the twenty-first century; a fabulous human adventure enhanced by the métiers d’art, and which has evolved alongside scientific and technical progress. The Foundation’s initiations to watchmaking are also an integral part of the programme. After École Van Cleef & Arpels held one of its first travelling sessions in Japan, the country’s Chronos magazine published a manga describing these workshops. A comic-strip debut that delighted the FHH which uses even the most original forms of communication to spread the word on time measurement.
Right Page from the manga published in Chronos magazine, illustrating a lesson taught by Dominique Fléchon in Tokyo for École Van Cleef & Arpels.
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a world 34 |
d view Take the culture of Fine Watchmaking out into the world
From its beginnings in 2005, the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie has adopted an international outlook, relayed by delegations in the sector’s main export markets. Indeed, the measuring of time is a universal culture which must be shared, if only so that others can understand the “mechanics” of time.
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a world view
Question to the Cultural Council The Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie Cultural Council is composed of 15 members, all recognised for their independence, professionalism and expertise. The Cultural Council defines the Foundation’s scope of action with respect to its members, and helps deliver the values and message of technical and precious Fine Watchmaking around the world. This year, the Cultural Council’s members were asked what they believed was the Foundation’s fundamental mission. Each in turn, these retailers, journalists, experts and collectors give their view of a world in which Fine Watchmaking no doubt wouldn’t be what it is without the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie.
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a world view
“What would you say is the fundamental mission of the FHH?”
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M E M B E R S O F T H E C U LT U R A L C O U N C I L
JASMINE AUDEMARS
The fundamental mission of the FHH is to illustrate every aspect of the culture of fine watchmaking. Through information. Through training. And most of all by reminding us that, as someone once said, “luxury is a discipline.”
AUREL BACS
The FHH helps to promote, across the globe, the art of fine watchmaking by acting as an ambassador for and link between watch manufacturers, retailers, press and consumers. Its mission is to defend the century-old values which define Haute Horlogerie, and to raise awareness and appreciation both for the world’s rich horological patrimony and the current production. It achieves this by organising international events, lectures and workshops and by openly sharing its knowledge. As a consequence, the FHH has become an important player in today’s horological landscape and a strong supporter of tomorrow’s success of Haute Horlogerie.
FRANCO COLOGNI
The FHH’s mission is to guarantee the legitimacy and authenticity of fine watchmaking. Hence this is a cultural mission which addresses not only the people who make fine watches, but also those who sell them – the brands’ ambassadors – and the collectors, connoisseurs and aficionados who buy them. The FHH’s main channels are training and information, this latter primarily through media – the Foundation’s website, the online HH Magazine and its annual publication, HH Mag – and events, specifically international travelling exhibitions. Fine watchmaking stands for excellence in creativity and savoirfaire, at the very summit of the manufacturing pyramid.
ELIZABETH DOERR
In my opinion, the fundamental mission of the FHH is to spread the word about fine watchmaking by bringing high-quality timepieces to the attention of a more general public. This essential aim is successfully completed by documenting and exhibiting historical aspects of timekeeping, as well as posing the possibility of garnering experience with horology.
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a world view
“What would you say is the fundamental mission of the FHH?”
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M E M B E R S O F T H E C U LT U R A L C O U N C I L
DOMINIQUE FLÉCHON
The FHH is the voice of traditional watchmaking, taking the culture of mechanical timepieces to the general public. Its actions are dictated not by profitability but by a spirit of openness and sharing. Without such an organisation to pass on the culture, science and heritage of watchmaking, there would be no more enthusiasts, no more collectors. Without this type of action, in the medium term there would be no more market for fine watches. You can’t love what you don’t know! The only way to encourage and sustain this passion is by capturing the public’s attention, and by sharing and explaining the culture of fine watches.
ALEXANDER GUBSKY
For me, the main mission of the FHH is to promote Haute Horlogerie as a form of art: a combination of mechanical art and decorative art.
TOMOKO KAYAMA
The FHH must take action to teach the general consumer about the culture of watchmaking through exhibitions and the media. Education for sales staff is equally important. Sales staff whose service and knowledge are of a sufficiently high standard will satisfy their customers, and in doing so retain their interest in watches.
FABIENNE LUPO
The FHH came about through the ambition to bring together all of fine watchmaking’s different players, large and small, irrespective of differences and individual motivations, so that the expertise and know-how of fine watchmaking can flourish and thrive all over the world. This is a vast and commendable ambition which will take time to achieve.
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a world view
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MICHAEL MAUER
A quality network is essential for the optimal acquisition of information, where messages are clearly positioned to address the media and society at large. Training all employees and promoting young talent contributes to the positive development of the entire profession, and also ensures the highest quality and a positive attitude when marketing luxury goods.
LUDWIG OECHSLIN
The FHH is a means of marketing the watchmaking segment so that it acquires a genuine cultural dimension. This is why it has the task of defining its values, and more specifically to combine values such as precision, care, production, beauty and the fascination of horological mechanics with others represented by identity, prestige, attention, desire and similar emotions. The Foundation’s essential and affective objective, in the literal sense of inspiring affection, is therefore to square this circle in a way that will bring it nearer to its goal.
FABIENNE STURM
In my view, the fundamental mission of the FHH is a threefold one: to be particularly attentive in monitoring the respect of quality criteria, something the brands themselves request, in both production and communication; to build on its intellectual potential to continue, through training, to perpetuate knowledge old and new; to carry on the open-minded spirit that prevails in the high standard of events and publications which contribute to its international renown.
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a world view
Worldwide delegations LATIN AMERICA RICHARD COURBRAN FRANCK JUHEL MAINLAND CHINA THIERRY RICHARD FRANCE THIERRY CASTAGNA OLIVIER PERRUCHOT HONG KONG, CHINA, TAIWAN NICOLAS BRINDJONC EDOUARD CAUMON INDIA ANITA KHATRI ITALY MARCO PAGANI JAPAN YUTAKA NISHIMURA BENELUX HANS BARNHOORN PORTUGAL ANTONIO MACHADO RUSSIA DMITRY YEREMEEV USA, CANADA PHILIPPE BONAY STEVEN KAISER ULRICH WOHN
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a world view
The FHH and its world The Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie covers a perimeter of brands, some partners and others a part of a horological tradition that makes the measurement of time a unique form of expertise.
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a world view
“Hommage à la Passion” and “Hommage au Talent” awards Second edition
Each year, the FHH in partnership with Bank Julius Baer presents the “Hommage à la Passion” and “Hommage au Talent” awards. These two distinctions come in recognition of outstanding personalities and their contribution to the eminence of Fine Watchmaking.
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The 2013 “Hommage à la Passion” award distinguished Walter Lange, the man who engineered the fabulous reawakening of A. Lange & Söhne. Born in 1924 and great-grandson of the Maison’s founder, Walter Lange was destined to take the helm of Lange Uhren GmbH, the family firm established in 1845 in Glashütte whose pocket watches were renowned the world over. The second world war would decide otherwise. On the last day of the conflict, the factory was bombed. Three years later the company’s assets were confiscated by the East German regime. It was only in 1990, following the fall of the Berlin Wall, that A. Lange & Söhne was reborn under the drive and leadership of Walter Lange. He was convinced the brand had a future. Time would prove him right. A. Lange & Söhne is now the epitome of Fine Watchmaking from Saxony.
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The “Hommage au Talent” award singled out the work of Jean-Marc Wiederrecht. Without him, contemporary watchmaking would no doubt never have conquered new realms where time becomes poetry. This watchmaker was, for many years, the unsung hero, the man behind the scenes who designed and made complicated movements for prestigious brands, often happy to claim the fruit of his talent for themselves. Not so today. Jean-Marc Wiederrecht is now associated with timepieces by Maisons such as Hermès, Harry Winston and Van Cleef & Arpels, bringing originality to the mechanics of time as only he knows how. He is the author of countless exceptional timepieces and has filed multiple patents. An aesthete of watchmaking, he has the ability to propose the most complex pieces in the most disconcertingly simple guise.
a world view
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1 Fabienne Lupo, Olivier Baudry, Franco Cologni, Walter Lange, Jean-Marc and Catherine Wiederrecht 2 Florence Notter and Aurel Bacs 3 Thomas Mao and Michael Tay 4 Valérie Boagno and Henry-John Belmont 5 Fabienne Sturm, Jean Freymond and Henri Merk 6 Suzanne Levesque and Bruno Giussani 7 Nicolas Bideau, Uli Sigg
and Fabienne Lupo 8 Thierry Malachard and Laurent Picciotto 9 Catherine Ferrier Alizadeh and Olivier Chantre 10 Virginie Raisson, Gabriel Prêtre and Juan Carlos Torres 11 Olivier Audemars, Dominique Tadion and Christian Piguet 12 Jean-Christophe Victor and Albert Kaufmann 13 Christine Barnaud, Mariannadi Rocco and Virginie
Fortun 14 Pascal Ravessoud, Abdul Hamied Seddiqi and Carlo Ceppi 15 Ding Zhixiang, Agnès Le Métayer and Marco Cattaneo 16 Jean-Pierre Greff, Elvita Alvarez and Stéphane Belmont 17 Carole Hübscher Clements and Fabienne Reybaud
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Press
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clippings
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Forum de la Haute Horlogerie PRESS CLIPPINGS
L’Hebdo 28 November 2013
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Forum de la Haute Horlogerie PRESS CLIPPINGS
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Swiss Day Against Counterfeiting PRESS CLIPPINGS
L’Hebdo 22 March 2013
Tribune de Genève 23 - 24 March 2013
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Swiss Day Against Counterfeiting PRESS CLIPPINGS
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Swiss Day Against Counterfeiting PRESS CLIPPINGS
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Swiss Day Against Counterfeiting PRESS CLIPPINGS
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“Horology, a child of astronomy” exhibition PRESS CLIPPINGS
SIAR 3 October 2013
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“Horology, a child of astronomy” exhibition PRESS CLIPPINGS
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“Horology, a child of astronomy” exhibition PRESS CLIPPINGS
QP 2013
Watch Around Fall 2013 - Winter 2014
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“Horology, a child of astronomy” exhibition PRESS CLIPPINGS
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atelier-zuppinger.ch
Plate Tableware or part of a watch movement? Discover the world of Fine Watchmaking at www.hautehorlogerie.org
Plate | The plate which bears the various movement parts and in particular the bridges. The dial is usually affixed to the bottom side of the plate. The plate is pierced with holes for the screws and recesses for the jewels in which the pivots of the movement wheels will run.
THE FOUNDATION’S PARTNERS | A. LANGE & SÖHNE | AUDEMARS PIGUET | BAUME & MERCIER | BOVET 1822 | CARTIER | CHANEL | CHOPARD | CHRISTOPHE CLARET CORUM | DE BETHUNE | GIRARD-PERREGAUX | GREUBEL FORSEY | HARRY WINSTON | HERMÈS | IWC | JAEGER-LECOULTRE | LOUIS VUITTON | MONTBLANC | PANERAI PARMIGIANI FLEURIER | PIAGET | RALPH LAUREN WATCH & JEWELRY | RICHARD MILLE | ROGER DUBUIS | TAG HEUER | VACHERON CONSTANTIN | VAN CLEEF & ARPELS
Publication director: Dominique Tadion Editor in chief: Christophe Roulet Publication coordinator: Julien Pfister Photo credits: Gregory Maillot English translation: Sandra Petch Graphic design: Atelier Zuppinger, Nyon Printing: Graphic Services SA Š Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie, 2014 All rights reserved for all countries. Reproduction of text and photographs is strictly prohibited. Printed in
Switzerland, January 2014.
Avenue du Mail 22 | 1205 Geneva | Switzerland Tel +41 22 307 09 90 | Fax + 41 22 307 09 95 www.hautehorlogerie.org