New models and trends in Fine Watchmaking for 2014

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in Fine Watchmaking for

HAUTE HORLOGERIE JOURNALS



Introduction The Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH) takes pleasure in presenting this latest Haute Horlogerie Journal - Trends and New Models, now a fixture in its calendar of publications. Indeed, this third edition comes buoyed by the success of its two predecessors. No other publication offers an exhaustive and independently compiled inventory of the emblematic timepieces proposed by the Maisons in the Fine Watch segment. As in previous years, certain conditions have guided this selection, such as to include a maximum of four watches per brand, and to feature only those which display genuine innovation in their mechanisms or aesthetic. The result is a no less reliable view of advances made in the industry as a whole. Nomenclature is also respected. All the watches in these pages are presented with a list of technical criteria which, as far as possible and based on available information, details the same specifications for each. A brief commentary further describes the reasons for their presence in this Haute Horlogerie Journal. In addition, each timepiece is assigned to one of four categories, identified by a colour: Classic, Design, Technical and Women's. All that remains is to wish you, the reader, the same enjoyment in browsing these pages as their authors had in writing them! CHRISTOPHE ROULET FONDATION DE LA HAUTE HORLOGERIE



Contents INTRODUCTION 2013, a year of consolidation

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Trends for 2014

6

Definition of a new model

8

BRANDS A. Lange & Söhne

10

IWC

63

Andreas Strehler

12

Jaeger-LeCoultre

65

Armin Strom

13

Jaquet Droz

67

Audemars Piguet

14

JeanRichard

69

Baume & Mercier

16

Kari Voutilainen

70

Beat Haldimann

18

Louis Vuitton

71

Blancpain

19

Maîtres du Temps

73

Boucheron

21

MB&F

74

Bovet 1822

23

Montblanc

75

Breguet

25

Omega

77

Breitling

27

Panerai

79

Bulgari

29

Parmigiani Fleurier

80

Cartier

31

Patek Philippe

82

Chanel

33

Paul Gerber

83

Chopard

35

Perrelet

84

Christophe Claret

37

Piaget

85

Corum

39

Pita Barcelona

87

De Bethune

41

Ralph Lauren

88

de Grisogono

43

Richard Mille

89

DeLaneau

45

Roger Dubuis

91

F.P.Journe

47

Rolex

93

Franck Muller

48

Romain Gauthier

94

Girard-Perregaux

50

Speake-Marin

95

Glashütte Original

52

TAG Heuer

97

Greubel Forsey 54

Ulysse Nardin

98

H. Moser & Cie

55

Urwerk

100

Harry Winston

56

Vacheron Constantin

101

Hautlence

58

Van Cleef & Arpels

103

Hermès

59

Vianney Halter

105

Hublot

61

Zenith

106


2013, a year of consolidation BY CHRISTOPHE ROULET

To imagine that Swiss watchmaking could carry on indefinitely with the same meteoric growth as in the post-subprime crisis era would have been unrealistic. Gaining 1.9% on 2012, 2013 was thus a year of "consolidation at a high level" (to borrow a favourite expression when describing these cycles), though no less another record year for Swiss watch exports which climbed to CHF 20.8 billion. Unsurprisingly, mechanical watches performed best and confirmed they are the front-runners of time measurement. Representing some 25% of Swiss watch exports in quantity, they account for close to 80% in value. A foreseeable result of anti-corruption campaigns, Hong Kong and China weighed most heavily on business performance last year, with respectively a 5.6% drop for the Swiss watch industry's main export market and a 12.5% decline for its third biggest destination. Not that we should paint too bleak a picture. In the first four months of 2014, the value of watches that travelled beyond Swiss borders posted a healthy increase of almost 4%. Furthermore, the sector continues to take on new staff, creating an additional 1,500 jobs in Switzerland last year and probably as many again in the rest of the world. Investment is also holding up well. Far from battening down the hatches, Swiss watchmaking is showing its confidence in the future. This optimism is more than confirmed by the prolificacy of the sector, which is echoed in these pages. For more than a decade, watchmakers have invested in the necessary means to give ever greater scope to their collections, a direction further reflected in the importance these Manufactures now attach to research and development. The growing

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number of fairs intended to showcase the measurement of time offers yet another illustration of this forward march. Baselworld was the only real reference until it was joined, some three decades ago, by the Hong Kong Watch & Clock Fair, soon followed by the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie in Geneva, which celebrates its silver jubilee in 2015. A trio that must now accommodate the numerous other events to have taken up residence in Mexico City (SIAR), London (QP), Munich (Inhorgenta), Paris (Belles Montres), New York (TimeCrafters) or Hong Kong (Watches&Wonders), to name but the most prominent. Another sure sign is the value of Swiss timepieces, which continues on its upward trajectory. Latest figures published by the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry reveal that the average price of a Swiss watch climbed to $791 in 2013. This is 5.9% up on 2012 and a figure that has more than quadrupled over twenty years. What's more, these are export values for a market which in retail prices represents some $60 billion. By way of comparison, the average price of watches exported from China in 2013 amounted to $3 and $21 for watches leaving Hong Kong. Some see this as evidence of Swiss watchmaking's quasi unshakeable grip on the mechanical watch market. A matter of tradition, one might say, but this is only part of the picture. Switzerland continues to leave an indelible mark on the measurement of time, and leave the competition far behind, because it has shown itself able to adapt to economic forces and become that unique junction between cutting-edge industry and high craftsmanship. An alchemy borne out by the statistics of these past years.

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Trends for 2014 BY CHRISTOPHE ROULET

No timepiece can be too beautiful to adorn a feminine wrist. Particularly now that women make no secret of their love affair with the tick-tock of a mechanical watch. Watchmakers needed no further encouragement to offer them their heart's desire, some with mĂŠtiers d'art, which certain Maisons master with ever greater perfection, some with creations as technically astounding, if not baffling, as their futuristic inventions for men - with an added dash of poetry of course - and others with collections imagined for her and her only. Granted, this isn't a recent trend but it is becoming more entrenched. As though watchmakers were realising they had forgotten something along the way. Or rather someone! Colour is conspicuously absent from the year's new styles. Black is back, beefing up the contours of one or other sports watch or underscoring the virtues of a crisp, clean line, as evidenced by ultra-thin timepieces. Year after year, watchmakers take thinness to new record levels in a high-wire performance that is widely considered one of the purest expressions of horological classicism. Such wafer-like watches are an expression of sovereign luxury and mechanical mastery on an infinitely small scale. Indeed, with components that barely exceed a few tenths of a millimetre in height and tolerances measured in microns, hence their greater fragility compared with more generously sized movements, these timepieces demand a rare level of expertise. The same virtuosity is apparent in movements, now prominently positioned in the horological spectrum. No efforts are spared in transforming these calibres into veritable

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works of art. Dials are banished to make way for skeletonwork that will reveal the calibre in its most essential attire. This trend is such that certain watchmakers now develop their movements with the possibility of a later skeletonised version in mind. In a similar vein, where dials do exist they too have likely been cut away to allow a glimpse of the vital organs beating beneath. Thus the mechanics of time become a symphony written in harmonies of art and technique. Where art, and its applications, are concerned, the preservation of rare and ancient crafts is now rivalled by a novel approach intended to introduce new techniques or established skills which have yet to express themselves on a horological canvas. Rose petal marquetry, bulino engraving, glyptic and millefiori crystal are just some examples. These artistic crafts offer infinite scope for expression to watchmakers who no longer conceive their activity in purely mechanical terms, but with a touch of poetry that renders each timepiece all the more desirable. Which leaves us to contemplate watchmaking's most compelling complications. Striking watches this year come to the fore with an array of complex and innovative minute repeaters. Originally designed to give the time in all circumstances, in particular after candles had been snuffed for the night, these dignified representatives of another age have been reimagined for today. A reminder that watchmaking can never fully pay its debt to its illustrious precursors. A reminder too that often, the pupil outshines the master.

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Definition of a new model The four main categories of new model At the beginning of each year, watch companies present their new products. The distinction has clearly been made between watches that bring variants or a new design feature to an existing collection, and new watches that fall into one or more of the following categories:

WOMEN’S A WOMEN’S watch is defined by the following characteristics:

The characteristics of a DESIGN watch are as follows:

• A woman’s watch is not a derivative of an existing man’s watch

• Particular focus on design to enhance legibility of the watch’s functions, provides genuine added value and becomes an identifying feature of the watch

• Mechanical watches are designed for women • The watch is specifically intended as a jewel-watch

CLASSIC A CLASSIC watch belongs to either of the following two categories: • One which emphasises a restrained aesthetic and a smooth, flowing line, and whose movement is without grandes complications. This classic watch has enduring elegance and the forgotten charm of an indefinable era. • One whose original launch dates back at least twenty years and therefore qualifies as "vintage". It is often an iconic model from a brand that wishes to perpetuate a defining style. Vintage constitutes an important trend in contemporary watchmaking.

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DESIGN

• Original movement, case or dial structure • Contributions from the métiers d’art such as engraving, gem-setting, enamelling, marquetry, engine-turning, mosaic and sculpting • Skeleton and openworked movements as an embellishing feature

TECHNICAL The characteristics of a TECHNICAL watch are as follows: • Any new calibre or original module equipping a "simple" or complicated watch • Use of innovative materials or materials not generally used in watchmaking • Advances in high-frequency technology • Extra-thin movements

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2014 Trends and new models Alphabetical order by brand

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A. Lange & Söhne

TECHNICAL

CLASSIC

1815

1815 TOURBILLON

In Socrates' day, an inscription on the fronton of the Temple of Apollo in Delphi read μηδὲν ἄγαν (mêdén ágan) or "nothing in excess". A belief shared by Ferdinand A. Lange, founder of the eponymous brand whose year of birth is also the name of this collection. The watchmaker from Glashütte embraces this principle in the new 1815, a reminder that the measurement of time has one of its most beautiful expressions in an authentically classic watch.

When the crown on this new timepiece by A. Lange & Söhne is pulled out, the tourbillon cage instantly stops and the seconds hand returns immediately to zero so that time can be set to the exact second. Such a feat is made possible by the interaction between two patented mechanisms: the tourbillon stop, a prowess in itself, and the zero-reset. This unprecedented function is further accentuated by the watch's classic design. Limited edition of 100 for the platinum version.

Movement | hand-wound Manufacture L051.1 calibre, 188 parts, 21,600 vibrations/hour frequency, 55-hour power reserve

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TECHNICAL

Movement | hand-wound Manufacture L102.1 calibre, 262 parts, 21,600 vibrations/hour frequency, 72-hour power reserve

Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds with stop seconds

Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds, one-minute tourbillon with patented stop seconds and patented zero-reset mechanism

Dial | silver-coloured solid silver

Dial | silver-coloured solid silver

Case | rose gold, 38.5 mm ø, 8.8 mm high, sapphire back

Case | platinum, 39.5 mm ø, 11.1 mm high, sapphire back

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A. Lange & Söhne

TECHNICAL

GRAND LANGE 1 MOON PHASE The new Lange 1 from the Glashütte manufacture turns all eyes on the moon-phase display which features prominently on the main dial. As always, precision is uppermost hence the Lange engineers have developed a mechanism which requires a single correction of the moon-phase display every 122.6 years. By way of comparison, a classic moon phase will already be one day out after two and a half years.

Movement | hand-wound Manufacture L095.3 calibre, 446 parts, 21,600 vibrations/hour frequency, 72-hour power reserve

TECHNICAL

RICHARD LANGE PERPETUAL CALENDAR "TERRALUNA" Whichever side is on view, this new Richard Lange timepiece elicits admiration. On the front, a regulator dial showing hours, minutes and seconds, perpetual calendar and power reserve in an aperture; on the back, an orbital moon-phase display which also shows the position of the Moon in relation to the Earth and Sun… this is the art of watchmaking from Saxony at its very finest. As ever, there are to be no concessions regarding precision, with a movement that includes a constant-force escapement.

Movement | hand-wound Manufacture L096.1 calibre, 787 parts, constant-force escapement with remontoir spring, 21,600 vibrations/hour frequency, two barrels, 14-day power reserve

Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds with stop seconds, power-reserve indicator, large date, moon phases

Functions | hours, minutes, regulator seconds, perpetual calendar with large date, day, month and leap year in apertures, power-reserve indicator, orbital moon-phase display with day/night indication on the movement side

Dial | silver-coloured solid silver

Dial | silver-coloured solid silver

Case | rose gold, 41.0 mm ø, 9.5 mm high, sapphire back

Case | white gold, 45.5 mm ø, 16.5 mm high, sapphire back

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Andreas Strehler

TECHNICAL

SAUTERELLE À LUNE PERPÉTUELLE To quote the judges of the Prix Gaïa, Andreas Strehler conceives his minimalist movements like living organisms; no doubt why in 2013 he took the award in the Artisanat-Creation category. Equally remarkable, this timepiece offers the most precise moon phase ever built. Comprising just four parts, it requires manual adjustment of one day every 14,189.5383 years. Based on the Sauterelle, its mechanism includes Strehler's patented remontoir d’égalité which delivers a constant supply of energy to the escapement.

Movement | hand-wound with patented remontoir d’égalité, 21,600 vibrations/hour frequency, 78-hour power reserve Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds, "perpetual" moon phases Dial | silvered Case | 18k rose gold, 41 x 47.20 mm, 10 mm high

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Armin Strom

TECHNICAL

DESIGN

ONE WEEK SKELETON This One Week Skeleton is the realisation of Armin Strom's longstanding dream to produce a skeleton entirely in-house, and in the grand tradition of the brand. The barrel springs, visible through the winding wheels, the blued small seconds hand, and the bridge cut-outs echo earlier creations. The decoration afforded to the parts combines aesthetic with functionality in a rarely achieved harmony. Limited edition of 50.

Movement | hand-wound ARM09-S skeleton calibre, 146 parts, 18,000 vibrations/hour frequency, 7-day power reserve Functions | offset hours and minutes, small seconds, power-reserve indicator Dial | sapphire with founded appliques Case | 18k rose gold, sapphire back, 43.40 mm ø, 13 mm high, water-resistant to 50 metres

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Audemars Piguet

WOMEN'S

14

DESIGN

CLASSIC

ROYAL OAK CHRONOGRAPH

ROYAL OAK OFFSHORE CHRONOGRAPH

Audemars Piguet applies the magic of precious stones to a generously sized sports watch. Each of the rose gold surfaces, from the case to the lugs, from the dial to the bracelet, have been paved with diamonds: a total of 966 stones, graded IF, for approximately 7.9 carats. Driven by a mechanical movement, this timepiece is resolutely aimed at the growing ranks of women for whom a watch can be nothing but mechanical.

Audemars Piguet trains the spotlight on the Royal Oak Offshore, a style that made its debut in 1993. This year it comes as six new versions with a more sculpted aesthetic and a design that emphasises technique, evidenced by the crown-guard, and the ceramic crown and pushers. A variant of the Navy, this model from the new collection stands out for its royal blue dial and rubber strap with contrasting orange chronograph hands.

Movement | self-winding Manufacture 2385 calibre, 26.20 mm ø (11½ lines), 5.50 mm high, 304 parts, 21,600 vibrations/hour frequency, 40-hour power reserve

Movement | self-winding Manufacture 3126/3840 calibre, 29.92 mm ø (13¼ lines), 7.16 mm high, 365 parts, 21,600 vibrations/hour frequency, 55-hour power reserve

Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds, date, chronograph with centre seconds hand, 12-hour and 30-minute counters

Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds, date, chronograph with centre seconds hand, 12-hour and 30-minute counters

Dial | diamond-paved, silvered counters, applied hour markers

Dial | blue with "Mega Tapisserie" pattern, silvered counters

Case | 18k rose gold, fully diamond-set, sapphire crystal, screwed crown, diamond-set bracelet, water-resistant to 50 metres

Case | stainless steel, sapphire crystal and sapphire back, screwed crown, black ceramic pushers, 42 mm ø, water-resistant to 100 metres

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Audemars Piguet

TECHNICAL

WOMEN'S

TECHNICAL

DESIGN

ROYAL OAK OFFSHORE DIVER

ROYAL OAK CONCEPT GMT TOURBILLON

This new style completes the line-up of Royal Oak Offshore Diver watches, all water-resistant to 300 metres and protected by an anti-magnetic inner case. Audemars Piguet presents a version whose bezel, case, crown and pushers are in white ceramic, even more resistant than black ceramic to make this watch virtually impossible to scratch. The unidirectional bezel for calculating dive time is operated by a screw-locked crown at 10 o'clock.

After a 2011 version with titanium case paired with a bezel, crown and pusher in black ceramic, the Tourbillon Royal Oak Concept GMT introduces a chromatic change. This new Royal Oak Concept, which debuted in 2002 to celebrate the 30th anniversary of this iconic Audemars Piguet watch, opts for a bezel, crown and pusher in white ceramic. This same ceramic also finds its way into the movement, in the hourglass-shaped upper bridge.

Movement | self-winding Manufacture 3120 calibre, 26.60 mm ø (11¾ lines), 4.26 mm high, 280 parts, 21,600 vibrations/hour frequency, 60-hour power reserve

Movement | hand-wound Manufacture tourbillon 2930 calibre, 35.60 mm ø (15¾ lines), 9.90 mm high, 291 parts, 21,600 vibrations/hour frequency, two barrels, 10-day power reserve

Functions | hours, minutes, centre seconds, date, dive time

Functions | hours, minutes, tourbillon, 24-hour GMT display, day/night indication, function selection

Dial | light silver-toned with "Mega Tapisserie" pattern, light silver-toned inner rotating bezel with diving scale and zone from 60 to 15 minutes in blue

Dial | openworked, tourbillon and GMT bridges in black anodised aluminium, upper bridge in white ceramic, inner bezel in black anodised aluminium

Case | white ceramic, sapphire crystal and sapphire back, screwed bezel and crown in white ceramic, titanium links, water-resistant to 300 metres

Case | titanium, sapphire crystal and sapphire back, screwed bezel and crown in white ceramic, white ceramic pusher, water-resistant to 100 metres

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Baume & Mercier

WOMEN'S

16

DESIGN

CLIFTON 30 MM

CLIFTON CHRONOGRAPH

Introduced in 2013, the Clifton collection takes its style cue from a 1950s watch. Joining the range this year are models with a 30 mm case. The silver-toned dial displays the date in an aperture. Gold-toned numerals and hour markers, along with the steel link bracelet, make this a lively and at the same time classic design.

A new addition to the Clifton family, this chronograph is driven by a Swiss-made, self-winding mechanical movement with an established reputation as a hard-wearing, reliable calibre. As well as the chronograph indications, day and date are displayed in a double aperture. Elegant and cosmopolitan, this is a precision timepiece on which time has no hold.

Movement | self-winding ETA 2671 calibre, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 38-hour power reserve

Movement | self-winding ETA 7750 calibre, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 48-hour power reserve

Functions | hours, minutes, seconds, retrograde data

Functions | hours, minutes, seconds, day, date, chronograph

Dial | mother-of-pearl, diamond hour markers (0.06 carat)

Dial | satin-finish silver sunburst and snailed

Case | round, steel, sapphire back, 30 mm ø, 9.94 mm high, water-resistant to 50 metres

Case | round, steel, sapphire back, 43 mm ø, 14.95 mm high, water-resistant to 50 metres

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Baume & Mercier

TECHNICAL

DESIGN

TECHNICAL

DESIGN

CLIFTON RETROGRADE DATE

CLIFTON 1892 FLYING TOURBILLON

The star of the 2014 launches, this watch confirms Baume & Mercier's determination to give horophiles a complication watch that is both functional and affordable. The generous size leaves ample room for hours, minutes and seconds, while the harmonious arrangement of the different indications adds to legibility.

An exceptional timepiece in a limited edition of 30, this watch is driven by a hand-wound calibre, regulated by a flying tourbillon and produced by Manufacture ValFleurier. Superlative finishing and the fact that each movement is assembled from start to finish by the same watchmaker are signs of masterful craftsmanship. Known for its complex execution, the flying tourbillon allows a clear view of its cage as it rotates once a minute, unobstructed by any bridge.

Movement | self-winding SOPROD 9094 calibre, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 42-hour power reserve

Movement | hand-wound Manufacture ValFleurier P591 tourbillon calibre, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 50-hour power reserve

Functions | hours, minutes, seconds, day, retrograde date, power-reserve indicator

Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds, flying tourbillon

Dial | satin-finish silver sunburst

Dial | silvered opaline

Case | round, steel, sapphire back, 43 mm ø, 12.05 mm high, water-resistant to 50 metres

Case | round, 18k red gold, sapphire back, 45.5 mm ø, water-resistant to 50 metres

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Beat Haldimann

TECHNICAL

DESIGN

H3 CENTRAL FLYING TOURBILLON AND MINUTE REPEATER True to form, Beat Haldimann confounds expectations with the H3, the first watch to combine a central flying tourbillon, a feat in itself, with a minute repeater. There is to be no "reading" the time - hands are conspicuous by their absence. Instead, hours and minutes are counted in chimes. In an additional refinement, an auxiliary dial on the back allows the wearer to correctly set the repeater mechanism and thus rest assured that the chiming melody corresponds to the time that governs our days.

Movement | hand-wound Manufacture H.Zen-C calibre, flying tourbillon with three drums, 18,000 vibrations/hour frequency Functions | central one-minute flying tourbillon, minute repeater, auxiliary dial for setting the time on the back Dial | black Case | platinum, sapphire back, 39 or 42 mm ø, waterresistant to 30 metres

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Blancpain

TECHNICAL

CLASSIC

TECHNICAL

CLASSIC

VILLERET CARROUSEL MOON PHASES

VILLERET 8-DAY PERPETUAL CALENDAR

Blancpain's two iconic complications are brought together for the first time, and in the splendid company of a Grand Feu enamel dial. Long overshadowed by the tourbillon, Blancpain restored the carrousel to the spotlight in 2008 when it unveiled the first ever flying carrousel to perform a one-minute rotation. This mechanical prowess returns alongside a moon-phase complication. A serpentine hand points to the date around the circumference of the dial.

This perpetual calendar displays its functions with a pleasing symmetry that recalls the pocket watches of days gone by. Blancpain's new self-winding movement keeps track of the varying lengths of the month and of leap years without any need for adjustment until 2100. Calendar indications and moon phases are easily adjusted by means of correctors which, concealed under the lugs, are invisible on the wrist.

Movement | self-winding 225L calibre, 281 parts, 120-hour power reserve

Movement | self-winding 5939A calibre, 379 parts, 32 mm ø, 7.25 mm high, 192-hour power reserve

Functions | hours, minutes, one-minute flying carrousel, date

Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds, 8-day perpetual calendar, with date, day, month and leap year indication, moon phases

Dial | white Grand Feu enamel

Dial | Grand Feu enamel

Case | 18k red gold, 42 mm ø, 12.74 mm high, waterresistant to 30 metres

Case | 18k red gold, 42 mm ø, 13.5 mm high, water-resistant to 30 metres

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Blancpain

TECHNICAL

CLASSIC

VILLERET 12-DAY ONE-MINUTE FLYING TOURBILLON Twenty-five years after the launch of Calibre 25, then the first and thinnest flying tourbillon on a self-winding wristwatch, Blancpain returns to this complication which it endows with greater autonomy. A single barrel guarantees the exceptional 12-day power reserve of this self-winding tourbillon, whose cage has been enlarged to allow a clear view of the balance and escape wheel design.

TECHNICAL

CLASSIC

BATHYSCAPHE FLYBACK CHRONOGRAPH New to the Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe collection, this flyback chronograph resets and instantly restarts at the push of a button. The new mechanism incorporates a silicon balance spring whose antimagnetic properties dispense with the need for a Faraday cage.

Movement | self-winding F385 calibre, 36,000 vibrations/ hour frequency, 50-hour power reserve Movement | self-winding 242 calibre, 243 parts, 30.60 mm ø 6.10 mm high, 288-hour power reserve Functions | hours, minutes, one-minute flying tourbillon Dial | Grand Feu enamel Case | platinum, 42 mm ø, 11.65 mm high, water-resistant to 30 metres

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Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds, flyback chronograph, date Dial | black Case | black ceramic, 43.60 mm ø, 15.25 mm high, unidirectional black ceramic bezel with ceramic insert and Liquidmetal® hour markers, water-resistant to 300 metres

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Boucheron

DESIGN

DESIGN

REFLET L

ÉPURE OURSIN

Boucheron returns to one of its iconic watches, first imagined in 1947. In this new, larger interpretation, delicately polished vertical gadroons soften the geometric case. The hour marker at 12 on the white dial is symbolised by a blue sapphire. A selfwinding mechanical movement drives the hour and minute hands.

Boucheron gives another lesson in rare crafts with its Épure d'Art watches. Timekeeping functions, courtesy of a Girard-Perregaux Manufacture calibre, are pared to the strict essential, leaving pride of place to gold and marquetry, a work reminiscent of Florentine cabinets of the Renaissance. The sea-urchin dial of this Épure d’Art Oursin is paved with white diamonds, blue sapphires and lacquered gold cabochons.

Movement | self-winding Girard-Perregaux Manufacture GP40000 calibre, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 40-hour power reserve Functions | hours, minutes

Movement | self-winding Functions | hours, minutes Dial | white, blue sapphire cabochon Case | rectangular, steel, 42 x 24 mm

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Dial | sea-urchin design composed of six double gadroons, set with diamonds and 19 lacquered white gold cabochons in three different sizes in a bezel setting. The rest of the sea-urchin is set with sapphires in a gradient of blue. Total of 355 stones Case | 18k white gold, non gem-set, sapphire back, 41 mm ø, 11.90 mm high, water-resistant to 50 metres

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Boucheron

DESIGN

ÉPURE D'ART FLEUR DE JOUR This watch from the Épure d’Art collection is a composition of light and structure, thanks to the flower that fills its dial. Each petal is crafted from white mother-of-pearl and set on a bed of diamonds, with more diamonds around the bezel. The finished piece is a shimmering celebration of the métiers d'art.

Movement | self-winding Manufacture Girard-Perregaux GP40000 calibre, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 40-hour power reserve Functions | hours, minutes Dial | marquetry of white mother-of-pearl on a bed of diamonds. The mother-of-pearl is positioned at different angles to catch the light and create an impression of volume Case | 18k white gold, diamonds, sapphire back, 41 mm ø, 11.90 mm high, water-resistant to 50 metres

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Bovet 1822

TECHNICAL

DESIGN

TECHNICAL

DESIGN

RÉCITAL 12 « MONSIEUR DIMIER »

AMADEO FLEURIER TOURBILLON VIRTUOSO III

Bovet 1822 presents its first ever movement to be entirely designed and manufactured in-house and which is not regulated by a tourbillon. A full five years of development preceded its debut inside the Recital 12 Monsieur Dimier where the magic of this calibre is revealed, in particular the wheels, balance and triple seconds hand. Two symmetrical openings allow a view of the power reserve and a segment of the barrel which guarantees seven days of autonomy. Limited edition of 150 for each colour of the gold case.

Bovet 1822 completes its collection of "useful" grandes complications with this Virtuoso III whose timekeeping functions, rendered perfectly legible on both sides by reverse hand-fitting, combine with a retrograde perpetual calendar, all regulated by a one-minute tourbillon. The movement finish is on a par with these superlative mechanics. Every surface of the bridges and plates has been hand-engraved with the Fleurier pattern, a detail collectors will particularly appreciate. Limited edition of 39 for each colour of the gold case.

Movement | hand-wound openworked Virtuoso II calibre, 21,600 vibrations/hour frequency, 7-day power reserve Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds, power reserve Dial | skeleton, black or white lacquer for the offset hours and minutes Case | 18k red gold, sapphire back, 42 mm ø, 9.10 mm high, water-resistant to 30 metres

Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie

Movement | hand-wound Virtuoso III tourbillon calibre, 656 parts, 38 mm ø, 21,600 vibrations/hour frequency, 5-day power reserve Functions | hours, minutes, seconds on the tourbillon, day, month, retrograde date, leap year cycle indicator, power-reserve indicator, reverse hand-fitting Dial | lacquered white or black, openworked Case | convertible Amadeo with secret opening, 18k red or white gold, 46 mm ø, 18.30 mm high, water-resistant to 30 metres

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Bovet 1822

DESIGN

WOMEN'S

BOVET BY PININFARINA "SERGIO"

AMADEO FLEURIER 36 "MISS AUDREY"

The Bovet by Pininfarina collection made its debut in 2010 at the same time as the convertible Amadeo case, and has already encompassed three tourbillons (Ottanta, Ottantadue, Ottantatre) and a chronograph (Cambiano). This latest addition takes inspiration from the bodywork of the "Sergio" Ferrari, designed by Italy's renowned Pininfarina design company and named in honour of Sergio Pininfarina who chaired the family firm for 40 years. The dial of this split-seconds chronograph offers ideal legibility with the additional feature of four recessed areas. Limited edition of 250.

The Amadeo Fleurier collection welcomes the arrival of a 36 mm diameter model in steel. Introduced in 2010 across the range, the Amadeo case converts effortlessly from a wristwatch to a table clock or a pendant watch, without any need for tools. The Amadeo system was further miniaturised for the "Miss Audrey" watch without compromising its perfect functioning. The dial of this new timepiece comes to life in pastel shades of turquoise or purple.

Movement | self-winding 13BA08-R calibre, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 50-hour power reserve Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds, split-seconds chronograph, 30-minute counter, power-reserve indicator Dial | anthracite, black, blue or rhodium-plated Case | convertible Amadeo, stainless steel, sapphire back, 45 mm ø, water-resistant to 30 metres

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DESIGN

Movement | self-winding 11BA13 calibre, 26 mm ø, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 42-hour power reserve Functions | hours, minutes Dial | guilloché and lacquered with four diamond hourmarkers Case | convertible Amadeo, stainless steel, bezel set with 60 round diamonds (0.68 carat), bow set with 43 round diamonds (0.21 carat), 36 mm ø, 11.25 mm high, water-resistant to 30 metres

Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie


Breguet

DESIGN

CLASSIQUE TOURBILLON PERPETUAL CALENDAR 3797 Joining the perpetual calendars already in the Classique collection, this new version is fitted with the Calibre 3797 which emphasises intuitive reading of the many timekeeping and calendar indications. To achieve this legibility, Breguet has played on different depths, lifting the hours and minutes chapter to the foreground in order to highlight this essential display. A second look takes in each of the remaining indications.

WOMEN'S

CLASSIC

CLASSIQUE DAME 9068 From its very beginnings, Breguet has taken care to imagine timepieces specifically for women. Rather than simply adding precious gems to existing designs for men, in Breguet's day the company was already crafting mechanical watches for its female admirers. Carrying on in this vein, its collections continue to propose timepieces of similar ilk, with qualities such as a slender case, uncluttered dial or delicate gem-setting. The Classique Dame 9068 is a perfect example.

Movement | hand-wound Manufacture 558QP2 calibre, 18,000 vibrations/hour frequency, 50-hour power reserve Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds on the tourbillon axis, perpetual calendar with day, month, leap year and retrograde date Dial | 18k rose gold, silvered and hand-guilloché with four different patterns Case | 18k rose gold, fluted caseband, sapphire back, 41 mm ø, water-resistant to 30 metres

Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie

Movement | self-winding Manufacture 591A calibre, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 38-hour power reserve Functions | hours, minutes, seconds, date Dial | 18k gold, silvered and hand-guilloché Case | 18k white gold, fluted caseband, bezel and lugs set with 88 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.606 carat), sapphire back, 33.50 mm ø, water-resistant to 30 metres

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Breguet

WOMEN'S

DESIGN

LES VOLANTS DE LA REINE Breguet's watchmakers have frequently looked to details from period costumes when creating their jewellery timepieces for women. This year the Manufacture captures in a jewelled watch the charm of the bows and frills that adorned the gowns worn by Queen Marie-Antoinette of France, Breguet's first female customer. Les Volants de la Reine is a fitting tribute to such finery.

Movement | self-winding 586 calibre, 21,600 vibrations/ hour frequency, 38-hour power reserve Functions | hours, minutes Dial | natural mother-of-pearl set with 20 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.02 carat) Case | 18k white gold, bezel and caseband set with 146 brilliant-cut diamonds (2.848 carats), inner bezel set with 66 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.132 carat), frills set with 193 brilliant-cut diamonds (1.07 carats) in a snow setting, 11 baguette diamonds (0.35 carat) and 2 cushion-cut sapphires (0.59 carat), crown set with a briolette diamond (0.28 carat), lugs set with 61 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.478 carat) in a snow setting, sapphire back, 33 x 24.95 mm

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Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie


Breitling

CLASSIC

TECHNICAL

CHRONOMAT 44 AIRBORNE

BENTLEY GMT LIGHT BODY B04

Breitling marks the 30th anniversary of its Chronomat with a special series that combines a technical look with the performance professional users expect. In the early 1980s, the company learned that the Italian airforce's aerobatics team, Frecce Tricolori, was inviting proposals for its official watch. Breitling responded with a completely new aviation chronograph that was tailor-made to meet pilots' needs. The elite team was won over by this original, functional and stylish timepiece, and in 1983 the Frecce Tricolori official watch took to the skies. The following year, the Chronomat joined the brand's regular collection.

"Bentley" for the quintessential British car. "GMT" for the innovative dual time-zone adjustment system. "Light Body" for the featherweight titanium case. "B04" for the Manufacture calibre, entirely developed and produced in the Breitling workshops. A model of functionality, this travel chronograph is distinguished by its ease of use: simply pull out the crown and turn it forwards or backwards to adjust the time zone in one-hour increments without losing any precision in minutes. The date automatically adjusts to local time, in both directions.

Movement | COSC-certified, self-winding Manufacture Breitling 01 calibre, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 70-hour power reserve

Movement | COSC-certified, self-winding Manufacture Breitling B04 calibre, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 70-hour power reserve

Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds, ¼-second chronograph, 30-minute counter, 12-hour counter, date, tachymeter scale on the inner bezel

Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds, ¼-second chronograph, 30-minute counter, 12-hour counter, date, second time zone by central hand over 24 hours, 24 time zones on the ratcheted rotating bezel

Dial | Onyx Black or Sierra Silver Case | steel, ratcheted unidirectional rotating bezel, 41 or 44 mm ø, water-resistant to 300 metres (41 mm) or 500 metres (44 mm)

Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie

Dial | Royal Ebony or Tungsten Case | titanium, sapphire back, 49 mm ø, water-resistant to 100 metres

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Breitling

CLASSIC

NAVITIMER GMT Breitling enters a new chapter in the life of its famed Navitimer aviation chronograph with a reinterpretation of the classic watch in a larger size, and a travel version designed for ease of use. Proposed with an impressive 48 mm diameter, this new GMT model is equipped with the B04 calibre. The second time zone is set forwards or backwards simply by turning the crown, without losing track of minutes or 24-hour local time. The date automatically follows.

Movement | COSC-certified, self-winding Manufacture Breitling B04 calibre, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 70-hour power reserve Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds, Ÿ-second chronograph, 30-minute counter, 12-hour counter, date, second time zone by central hand over 24 hours, tachymeter scale, slide rule on the rotating bezel Dial | black or Mercury Silver Case | steel or 18k red gold, sapphire back, 48 mm ø, water-resistant to 30 metres

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Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie


Bulgari

WOMEN'S

DESIGN

TECHNICAL

LUCEA

AMMIRAGLIO DEL TEMPO

Bulgari illuminates a woman's wrist with Lucea whose name is derived from lux and luce, the Latin and Italian words for "light". This new creation commands admiration with an ageless elegance coloured by the brand's style signatures. A round case and supple construction are matched by the Serpenti-inspired bracelet. Hinting at Bulgari's jewellery origins, a warm pink cabochon gem clinches the crown, adorned in its centre with a solitaire diamond. Indeed, Lucea has no need for further embellishment; in its most pared-down version, it is already a classic.

Four hammers and gongs, a minute repeater and Westminster chimes, and still the inventory of functions proposed by Ammiraglio del Tempo goes on, as this new timepiece also equips its sophisticated striking mechanism with an innovative repeater slide. In addition, this new grande complication from Bulgari is presented with a detent escapement and a constant-force device, a regulating organ which represents the highest level of complexity in watchmaking. Limited edition of 20 in 18k rose gold and limited edition of 10 in 18k white gold.

Movement | self-winding B77calibre, 77 parts , 26.20 mm ø, 3.60 mm high, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 42-hour power reserve

Movement | hand-wound Manufacture calibre with detent escapement, constant-force device and minute repeater, 516 parts, 38 mm ø, 9.38 mm high, 14,400 vibrations/hour frequency, 48-hour power reserve

Functions | hours, minutes, seconds, date Dial | black, sunray guilloché Case | steel, 18k rose gold bezel, 18k rose gold crown with a pink cabochon stone set with a diamond, bracelet with alternating 18k rose gold and steel links, 33 mm ø, water-resistant to 30 metres

Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie

Functions | hours, minutes, Westminster chimes minute repeater with four hammers and gongs Dial | made from a gold plate with openings to show the detent escapement, hammers and gongs Case | 18k rose or white gold, repeater slide at 7 o'clock, sapphire back, 50 mm ø, 14.09 mm high

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Bulgari

WOMEN'S

DESIGN

DIVA

OCTO FINISSIMO TOURBILLON

The Diva watch is proud to proclaim its origins in the jewelled values that founded the House of Bulgari. A reference to the golden age of silver-screen legends, it embodies the Dolce Vita days when Bulgari was inseparable from the world of film. The collection embraces multiple combinations of stones in every colour. The epitome of feminine charm, it plays on the modular geometric designs explored in the jewellery collection of the same name.

Bulgari has created nothing less than the world's thinnest flying tourbillon watch in a movement that measures a mere 1.95 mm high. Innovative solutions made possible this quest for ultimate thinness. Firstly, ball bearings are used to pivot the moving parts. The regulator assembly has also been omitted to gain vital millimetres. Timing is instead adjusted directly on the balance wheel. The barrel is held in position and guided by three peripheral ball bearings. This solution allowed Bulgari to double the height of the mainspring for a power reserve of 55 hours.

Movement | quartz Functions | hours, minutes Dial | white mother-of-pearl Case | 18k rose gold case and bracelet, 286 brilliant-cut diamonds (5.67 carats), 8 rubellites and 8 amethysts

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TECHNICAL

Movement | extra-thin, hand-wound Manufacture Finissimo calibre, 249 parts, 32.60 mm ø, 1.95 mm high, 21,600 vibrations/hour frequency, 55-hour power reserve Functions | hours, minutes, one-minute tourbillon Dial | polished black lacquer Case | platinum, 40 mm ø, 5 mm high

Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie


Cartier

DESIGN

TECHNICAL

ROTONDE DE CARTIER ASTROCALENDAIRE Carrying on from the Rotonde de Cartier Astrorégulateur and Astrotourbillon, this watch transforms its dial into an amphitheatre where a perpetual calendar takes centre-stage. Set out in concentric tiers, this innovative display resolves many of the difficulties inherent in displaying simultaneously and legibly the month, day and date, and leap or ordinary year. Hallmarked Poinçon de Genève, the Astrocalendaire is driven by Cartier's in-house 9459 MC calibre with flying tourbillon.

DESIGN

BALLON BLEU DE CARTIER FLORAL MARQUETRY PARROT This limited edition of 20 brings to light a craft never before seen in watchmaking: floral marquetry. Authentic, coloured flower petals are meticulously cut into the desired shape using a marquetry scroll saw. These tiny pieces become a living, precious material, here transformed into the parrot's exuberant plumage. Onyx, emerald, diamonds and miniature painting complete this stunningly lifelike tableau.

Movement | self-winding Manufacture 9459 MC calibre, tourbillon, perpetual calendar, 21,600 vibrations/hour frequency, 50-hour power reserve, Poinçon de Genève

Movement | self-winding Cartier 049 calibre

Functions | hours, minutes, tourbillon, perpetual calendar with circular display

Dial | 18k rhodium-plated white gold and 18k rose gold, floral and onyx marquetry, emerald eye

Dial | silvered

Case | round, 18k rhodium-plated white gold, 124 round diamonds (1.80 carats), crown set with a cabochon blue sapphire, 42 mm ø, 15.1 mm high, water-resistant to 30 metres

Case | round, platinum, sapphire back, 45 mm ø, 15.1 mm high, water-resistant to 30 metres

Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie

Functions | hours, minutes

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Cartier

TECHNICAL

WOMEN'S

DESIGN

CALIBRE DE CARTIER DIVER

BALLON BLANC DE CARTIER

Introduced in 2010, the Calibre de Cartier now lends itself to a dive version that is water-resistant to 300 metres. Each watch complies with ISO 6425 requirements and has been tested according to the eight obligatory criteria for a dive watch as prescribed by this international standard. Equipped with a unidirectional rotating bezel, it is also one of the thinnest mechanical dive watches on the market.

The coveted Ballon de Cartier case reinvents itself as a sumptuous jewel-watch. The pebble shape remains true to the Ballon spirit, while the Roman numerals make a small detour from their circular route to make room for a solitaire diamond. The sinuous white gold bracelet is set with diamonds for a total of 9.35 carats.

Movement | self-winding Manufacture 1904 MC calibre, 25.6 mm ø, 4 mm high, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 48-hour power reserve Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds, date Dial | black, partially snailed Case | round, rhodium-plated white gold, 18k rose gold, unidirectional bezel in 18k rose gold coated with ADLC, crown set with a facetted sapphire, 42 mm ø, 11 mm high, water-resistant to 300 metres

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Movement | Cartier 056 quartz calibre Functions | hours, minutes Dial | mother-of-pearl, flinqué Case | round, 18k rose gold set with diamonds (0.70 carat), 24 mm ø, crown set with a diamond (0.20 carat), waterresistant to 30 metres

Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie


Chanel

WOMEN'S

TECHNICAL

TECHNICAL

J12 - 365

J12 MOONPHASE

While its spirit is unchanged, recognisable in the round case, serrated bezel, Arabic numerals and crown-guard, this new J12 has refined its look to reflect a distinctly feminine sensibility. Notable features include the smaller, 36.5 mm diameter (hence the name), the diamonds which move from crown to bezel, and the slender case which accommodates a self-winding movement. A serious alternative to the original J12 with its more sportsstyled 38 mm case. Four of the eight renditions have a case in 18k beige gold, an exclusive alloy developed by Chanel.

Unlike the conventional moon phase complication which is displayed in an aperture, moon phases on the J12 Moonphase come to life on a deep blue aventurine disc that is spangled like a summer night sky. Positioned at 6 o'clock, it shows the four main phases of the moon: new moon, first quarter, full moon, last quarter. A serpentine hand in polished steel indicates the current phase while an additional hand points to the date.

Movement | mechanical self-winding, 42-hour power reserve Movement | mechanical self-winding, 42-hour power reserve

Functions | hours, minutes, seconds, date by hand, moon phases

Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds, date by hand Dial | guilloché, black or opaline

Dial | satin-finish opaline or black (without diamonds), guilloché opaline or black (63 diamonds on the dial, 54 diamonds on the bezel), aventurine moon-phase dial

Case | 18k beige gold, 36.50 mm ø, water-resistant to 100 metres

Case | case and bracelet in black or white high-tech ceramic, 38 mm ø, water-resistant to 100 metres

Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie

33


Chanel

WOMEN'S

DESIGN

MADEMOISELLE PRIVÉ WITH EMBROIDERED CAMELLIA Since 1924, Maison Lesage has created elaborate embroidery embellishments for haute couture and ready-to-wear, each of which requires hours of work and consummate expertise. Now and for the first time, this talent lends itself to watch dials. Each embroidered pattern is unique and can only be created through precise and meticulous gestures. The dial of this watch has been hand-stitched with a camellia, Gabrielle Chanel's favourite flower, using coloured silks and the "needlepoint painting" technique. Limited edition of 18.

WOMEN'S

DESIGN

MADEMOISELLE PRIVÉ GOLD CAMELLIA The Mademoiselle Privé jewellery watch collection spotlights the symbols which Gabrielle Chanel most cherished, and the objects that were a part of her life: a glimpse of Mademoiselle in private. Once again this year, Chanel uses this collection to pay homage to the métiers d’art, specifically engraving and chasing. Accordingly, the flowers that adorn the gem-set dial of this Gold Camellia watch are crafted from hand-polished, handengraved 23k yellow gold.

Movement | mechanical self-winding, 42-hour power reserve Movement | mechanical self-winding, 42-hour power reserve

Dial | black, embroidered

Dial | mat black with 5 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.11 carat) and 5 navette-cut yellow sapphires (0.09 carat), 23k gold engraved camellias

Case | 18k white gold set with 562 brilliant-cut diamonds (3.07 carats), 37.50 mm ø, 9.84 mm high, water-resistant to 30 metres

Case | 18k white gold, bezel set with 60 brilliant-cut diamonds (1 carat), 37.50 mm ø, 9.85 mm high, waterresistant to 30 metres

Functions | hours, minutes

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Functions | hours, minutes

Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie


Chopard

CLASSIC

GRAND PRIX DE MONACO HISTORIQUE CHRONO In 2014 and for the seventh time in a row, Chopard was the official timekeeper and sponsor of the Grand Prix de Monaco Historique, an event which Chopard traditionally celebrates with the issue of an original timepiece. This year the Maison has chosen to develop a complete new collection, the centrepiece of which is the Grand Prix de Monaco Historique Chrono. This model, with its revisited design and larger, mat titanium case, a new yellow colour scheme and perforated strap, is expressly designed for the racing circuit and as a tribute to vintage Formula 1.

Movement | COSC-certified, self-winding chronograph, 37.20 mm ø, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 46-hour power reserve Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds, date in an aperture, chronograph with yellow centre seconds hand, 30-minute counter, 12-hour counter Dial | silvered, snailed Case | beadblasted titanium, steel bezel with black aluminium insert, 44.5 mm ø, 13.9 mm high, water-resistant to 100 metres

Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie

TECHNICAL

DESIGN

HAPPY SPORT TOURBILLON JOAILLERIE Chopard introduced its Happy Sport, matching steel with diamonds, in 1993. The first mechanically-driven version came in 2013 to mark the 20th anniversary of the collection. One year later, the Manufacture takes another step forward with the addition of a one-minute tourbillon which draws energy from Chopard's very own Quattro technology, thus ensuring a full nine days of power reserve. Certified by the Poinçon de Genève, this Happy Sport Tourbillon resides in a jewelled case as a reminder of the company's gemmological expertise.

Movement | hand-wound Manufacture L.U.C 02.16-L calibre with COSC and Poinçon de Genève certification, 29.70 mm ø, 6.10 mm high, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, Quattro four-barrel technology delivering a 9-day power reserve Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds on the one-minute tourbillon Dial | snow-set diamonds, diamonds on the tourbillon bridge, 7 moving diamonds Case | 18k white gold with diamonds, bezel set with 36 trapeze-cut diamonds, crown set with baguette diamonds and one briolette diamond, sapphire back, 42 mm ø, 15.09 mm high, water-resistant to 30 metres

35


Chopard

TECHNICAL

L.U.C TOURBILLON QF FAIRMINED

L.U.C 1963

This nine-day tourbillon is the first timepiece for which Chopard has worked with Fairmined gold, a certification which guarantees the gold was mined in a responsible way and that the miners receive fair payment for their work, thus proving that this precious metal can be sustainably extracted. The watch trains the spotlight on the ongoing partnership between Chopard and Alliance for Responsible Mining, the South American NGO behind the Fairmined standard. It has also been submitted to testing by the Fleurier Quality Foundation. This independent body, which marks its 10th anniversary in 2014, is unique in the scope of its testing and certification is reputed extremely difficult to obtain. Limited edition of 25.

To mark the milestone of the Scheufele family's 50th anniversary at the head of Chopard, the Manufacture presents the L.U.C 1963, a watch with great emotional content and a natural descendant of the great chronometers of the past. It comes as a tribute to watchmaking's technical and aesthetic genius, and to the high-precision timing to which Chopard remains committed. Indeed, Chopard submits many of its chronometers for certification by the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres (COSC) and is one of the main beneficiaries of the prestigious Poinçon de Genève. The L.U.C 1963 has been certified by both these bodies. Limited edition of 50 in rose gold and limited edition of 50 in platinum.

Movement | hand-wound Manufacture L.U.C 02.13-L1 calibre with COSC, Poinçon de Genève and Qualité Fleurier certification, 224 parts, 29.70 mm ø, 6.10 mm high, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, Quattro fourbarrel technology delivering a 9-day power reserve Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds on the tourbillon, power-reserve indicator

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CLASSIC

Movement | hand-wound Manufacture L.U.C 63.01-L calibre, COSC and Poinçon de Genève certification, 38 mm ø, 5.50 mm high, 21’600 vibrations/hour frequency, 60-hour power reserve Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds

Dial | ruthenium, satin-brushed sunray

Dial | white, porcelain-type

Case | 18k Fairmined gold, sapphire back, 43 mm ø, 11.15 mm high, water-resistant to 50 metres

Case | 18k rose gold or platinum, sapphire back, 44 mm ø, 11.50 mm high, water-resistant to 50 metres

Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie


Christophe Claret

TECHNICAL

WOMEN'S

TECHNICAL

POKER

MARGOT

Another stroke of technical genius in the vein of the 21 Blackjack and Baccara watches, Poker contains a full pack of 52 cards inside its 45 mm case so that three players can indulge in an authentic game of Texas Hold'em. It can propose 32,768 card combinations or 98,304 game plays for three players. True to his reputation as a master of striking watches, Christophe Claret has incorporated his patented cathedral gong which sounds each time a player presses either the flop or turn/river pusher. Four limited editions of 20.

Margot is Christophe Claret's first ever watch especially for women, and answers the eternal question "does he love me?" with petals plucked from a daisy. This unprecedented complication, for which a patent has been filed, is reinforced by chimes. A single press of a pusher and one, perhaps two, petals disappear beneath the dial until a verdict is reached. He loves me… a little, a lot, passionately, madly… or not at all. This mechanical magic is brought to light by an association of precious stones, mother-of-pearl and gold. Four limited editions of 20. Movement | self-winding Manufacture EMT17 calibre, 731 parts, two barrels, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 72-hour power reserve

Movement | self-winding Manufacture PCK05 calibre, 665 parts, two barrels, four ball bearings including one double, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 72-hour power reserve Functions | hours, minutes, Texas Hold'em poker game with chime, roulette wheel, patented cathedral gong Dial | nickel silver, skeletonised card pattern Case | 18k white gold and grade 5 titanium with black PVD treatment, 45 mm ø, 15.95 mm high, water-resistant to 30 metres

Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie

Functions | hours, minutes, "loves me, loves me not" game, "colours of love" on the rotor Dial | blue mother-of-pearl, white gold prong set with pear-cut diamonds, Christophe Claret logo in white gold, daisy petals in white lacquer Case | white gold (palladium alloy) with 68 baguette diamonds (5.20 carats) or 423 snow-set diamonds (3 carats), one hexagonal or snow-set diamond between the lugs, 42.50 mm ø, 14.52 mm high, water-resistant to 30 metres

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Christophe Claret

TECHNICAL

MAESTOSO This new timepiece, which is equipped with a traditional pivoted detent escapement and constant force, bears testimony to an important aspect of horological history. This type of detent escapement first appeared in the eighteenth century and was a common feature of marine chronometers. It is considered as the quintessence of chronometric precision. Transposing such an escapement to a wristwatch is no small feat which Christophe Claret has achieved thanks to a series of complex technical solutions, three of which are patented. Maestoso's two barrels are each fitted with two superimposed springs. They release the energy required by the escapement while optimising the watch's power reserve of more than 80 hours. Three limited editions of 20.

Movement | hand-wound Manufacture DTC07 calibre, 301 parts, 14,400 vibrations/hour frequency, two parallelmounted barrels each with two springs, 80-hour power reserve Functions | hours, minutes, constant-force indication Case | white gold and grade 5 titanium with anthracite PVD treatment, 44 mm ø, 13.59 mm high, water-resistant to 30 metres

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Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie


Corum

TECHNICAL

DESIGN

TECHNICAL

ADMIRAL’S CUP AC-ONE 45 SQUELETTE

ADMIRAL’S CUP AC-ONE DOUBLE TOURBILLON

Inside the grade 5 titanium case of the Admiral's Cup AC-One 45 Squelette beats the self-winding CO 082 calibre with a frequency of 28,800 vibrations/hour. This is the first time that the movement, which has a 42-hour power reserve, appears in a fully skeletonised construction with resolutely contemporary finishes. The absence of a dial draws the eye further into these mechanical depths while the transparent date disc adds to the visual effect.

A new movement makes its debut in the stylishly sporting Admiral's Cup: the hand-wound CO 1008 calibre. This mechanism features a double tourbillon as well as a retrograde date and an ingenious time-adjustment system. A simple press on the crown-pusher brings the minute hand instantly to the twelfth hour numeral so it can be set at the precise time, up to five minutes before and after a full hour. This CO 1008 calibre resides inside the immediately recognisable twelve-sided case of the Admiral's Cup, imagined in 1960 and redesigned in 2013.

Movement | hand-wound CO 1008 calibre, 21,600 vibrations/hour frequency, 72-hour power reserve Movement | self-winding skeleton CO 082 calibre, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 42-hour power reserve

Functions | hours, minutes, retrograde date by hand, double tourbillon

Functions | hours, minutes, date

Dial | anthracite brass with "split pomegranate" pattern, nautical pennants stamped on the inner bezel

Case | grade 5 titanium, sapphire back, 45 mm ø, 13.30 mm high, water-resistant to 300 metres

Case | grade 5 titanium, sapphire back, 45 mm ø, 14.40 mm high, water-resistant to 300 metres

Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie

39


Corum

DESIGN

40

WOMEN'S

DESIGN

GOLDEN BRIDGE DRAGON

FEATHER WATCH

Corum introduces the Golden Bridge Dragon to its Bridge collection. The now famous baguette movement merges with a gold sculpture of a dragon which wraps itself around the calibre. It takes a full two weeks to sculpt each of these fabulous creatures in stunningly realistic detail.

The height of fashion in the nineteenth century, plumasserie (feather ornaments) is no less a symbol of elegance today. Corum chose this mĂŠtier d'art for two limited-edition timepieces whose dials are decorated with peacock feathers. On one of the two editions, limited to 25 pieces, the dial is framed by 120 round diamonds. The classically sober outline of the case is borrowed from a 1970s Corum design, as are the skeleton dauphine hour and minute hands which are driven by a self-winding CO 082 movement.

Movement | hand-wound CO 113 baguette calibre, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 40-hour power reserve

Movement | self-winding CO 082 calibre, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 42-hour power reserve

Functions | hours, minutes

Functions | hours, minutes

Dial | no dial, sculpted gold dragon around the baguette movement

Dial | brass, 120 round diamonds (0.71 carat) and peacock feather

Case | titanium or 18k red gold, sapphire back, 34 x 51 mm, 10.90 mm high, water-resistant to 30 metres

Case | 18k 5N red gold, sapphire back, 39 mm ø, 10.30 mm high, water-resistant to 50 metres

Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie


De Bethune

TECHNICAL

DESIGN

TECHNICAL

DESIGN

DB28 DIGITALE

DB29 MAXICHRONO TOURBILLON

Finely-crafted, eighteenth-century timepieces such as French Directoire clocks have never ceased to inspire De Bethune. The DB28 Digitale, whose mechanism powers multiple display modes - digital jumping hours, analogue minutes and spherical moon phases, precise to one day every 1,112 years - embodies a contemporary vision of that era's aesthetic. The dial, which has been hand-guilloché with a barleycorn motif, the spherical moon and star-studded sky are all classical references whose arrangement and execution make a very modern statement.

The five central hands on this chronograph watch serve to make elapsed times easier to read than on a conventional chronograph display. An important element of the watch's identity, they follow the curves of the dial. They are each crafted from blued steel, except for the chronograph minute hand which is in rose gold. Seconds and minutes are measured on a scale with 60 graduations, hours on a scale of 24. All five hands are mounted on co-axial stacked wheels, a complex system requiring immense technical expertise.

Movement | hand-wound DB2144 calibre, 329 parts, 30 mm ø, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 5-day power reserve Functions | jumping hours in an aperture, analogue minutes on a rotating silvered disc, spherical moon phases in the centre Dial | silvered, hand-guilloché with a barleycorn pattern, De Bethune starry sky in blued and polished grade 5 titanium, encrusted with white gold stars Case | grade 5 titanium, sapphire back, 43 mm ø or 45 mm with the titanium bezel

Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie

Movement | hand-wound CB2039 calibre, 410 parts, 36,000 vibrations/hour frequency, 5-day power reserve Functions | hours, minutes, monopusher chronograph with three central hands, concentric circular second, minute and hour counters, De Bethune silicon/titanium tourbillon with 30-second indication on the movement side Dial | silvered, curved structure on different levels Case | 5N rose gold, 5N rose gold cover with invisible hinge, sapphire back, 46 mm ø, 11.70 mm high

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De Bethune

TECHNICAL

DESIGN

DREAM WATCH 5.2 The design of Dream Watch 5.2 owes much to that of its predecessors, whose forms it revisits. The cambered delta shape that is a visual hallmark of De Bethune is present in the bridge, borrowed from Dream Watch 1. The case of Dream Watch 4 is also in evidence, with taut lines pulling against gentle curves. Ultimately, Dream Watch 5.2 is the product of ongoing research into shapes, colours and materials. This version comes cloaked in blackened zirconium, a hard-wearing yet lightweight metal whose black oxidised colour is impervious to humidity and air.

Movement | hand-wound DB2144 calibre, 355 parts, 30 mm ø, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 5-day power reserve Functions | jumping hours in an aperture, analogue minutes on a rotating disc, spherical moon phases in the centre Dial | De Bethune spherical moon phases in blued steel and palladium in the centre Case | polished and blackened zirconium delta curve, 7.5 cm3

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Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie


de Grisogono

WOMEN'S

DESIGN

WOMEN'S

DESIGN

ALLEGRA

GRAPPOLI

Originally a collection of jewellery, Allegra is now also a watch, or more exactly a jewel that gives the time. Indeed, this particular Allegra is as much bracelet as timepiece, and a nod to the day when the stars of the silver screen wore precious watches threaded onto cords. De Grisogono has imagined this new collection as a reminder of that golden era. More than time, Allegra promises to bring joy to women who live life in an allegretto mode.

Clusters of briolette-cut precious stones distinguish the watches in the Grappoli collection by de Grisogono. They have been set around the case in such a way that they quiver with the movements of the wearer's wrist. The same stones in a snow setting adorn dial and bezel to create an expanse of precious colour, with contrast created by the different volumes.

Movement | quartz Functions | hours, minutes Dial | lacquered (black or white) or mother-of-pearl (pink, orange, red or black) Case | steel with PVD treatment or gold (rose or white, with or without gems), gem-set bezel (diamonds, emeralds, spinels, tsavorites, sapphires or amethysts), custom-fit strap made from 20 woven leather cords in different colours

Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie

Movement | quartz Functions | hours, minutes Dial | orange or blue sapphires, emeralds or amethysts Case | gold, briolette-cut precious stones coordinating with the dial

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de Grisogono

TECHNICAL

DESIGN

MECCANICO DG With its patented analogue and mechanical-digital dual display for two time zones, the Meccanico dG brings a completely new concept to mechanical fine watchmaking. Premiered in 2008, it returns this year in a revolutionary carbon-fibre case that stores light to then glow like a horological spaceship when darkness falls.

Movement | hand-wound DG 042 calibre, 651 parts, 38.10 x 34.70 mm, 11.45 mm high, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 35-hour power reserve Functions | analogue hours and minutes (top display), digital second time zone (bottom display) by moving micro-segments driven by 23 cams Case | Case / luminescent carbon fibre, open back, 56 x 48 mm, water-resistant to 30 metres

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Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie


DeLaneau

WOMEN'S

DESIGN

DESIGN

GRACE CABOCHON RUBIES

RONDO TRANSLUCENT

DeLaneau specialises in the creation of exceptional timepieces in very small quantities, a vocation confirmed this year with the Grace collection, which is a celebration of gem-setting. These Fine Jewellery watches are composed of a white gold bracelet which has been completely covered in precious stones surrounding a gem-set dial whose colour is in harmony with these stones. This Grace Cabochon Rubies is adorned with a rare gathering of stones, set over the course of an entire year by a master gem-setter.

DeLaneau's watches with translucent enamel dials capture nature's colours through the power of light. Before the translucent enamel is applied, a master engraver decorates each dial with a guilloché pattern. It is then enamelled using the Grand Feu technique to ensure uniform colour and depth while allowing the engraved pattern to refract light to stunning visual effect. Once the required finish has been achieved, a laser pierces a hole in the dial at 12 o'clock for a single precious stone to be set.

Movement | quartz Functions | hours, minutes

Movement | mechanical self-winding, 28,800 vibrations/ hour frequency, 72-hour power reserve

Dial | white gold with 268 diamonds, case included

Functions | hours, minutes

Case | white gold with diamonds in a cuff bracelet set with 214 cabochon rubies (222.28 carats) and 419 diamonds (5.29 carats), 25 mm ø, 6.85 mm high, waterresistant to 30 metres

Dial | gold, translucent enamel on a hand-guilloché pattern, one navette-cut diamond

Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie

Case | rose gold with diamonds, 36 mm ø, 10.33 mm high

45


DeLaneau

DESIGN

RONDO ICON An independent brand whose production emphasises hand-crafting, DeLaneau offers its clients the chance to own a watch that has been made specifically to their requirements. The Rondo Icon illustrates this possibility to perfection using a technique in which the company excels: Grand Feu enamel. Various enamelling skills (miniature painting, cloisonné, champlevé and foil pailloné) have been used in conjunction to produce this timelessly beautiful, polychrome icon. It is set against 302 diamonds which, together with the diamonds adorning the case, illustrate DeLaneau's equally impressive command of gem-setting.

Movement | mechanical self-winding Functions | hours, minutes Dial | Grand Feu enamel, diamonds Case | red gold, 36 baguette diamonds, 288 brilliant-cut diamonds, 42 mm ø

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Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie


F.P.Journe

TECHNICAL

WOMEN'S

TECHNICAL

CLASSIC

ÉLÉGANTE

HISTORICAL TOURBILLON

After eight years of research, F.P. Journe presents its first collection of women's watches, by the name of Élégante. The Geneva-based watchmaker has opted for an electro-mechanical movement which provides 10 years of use when worn and 18 years in standby mode. Indeed, the watch is designed to stop when a motion sensor detects that the rotor has been still for 30 minutes. When the mechanics are stopped, a microprocessor continues to keep time, hence as soon as the oscillating weight, visible at 4 o'clock, detects movement, the hands of the Élégante watch take the shortest path to set themselves at the right time. As a further particularity, the entire dial is in Superluminova.

In 2013, François-Paul Journe celebrated three decades of his eponymous brand. As a fitting commemoration of this anniversary, at the end of the year he unveiled the Historical Tourbillon in a limited edition of 99. It re-interprets the very first watch ever made by François-Paul Journe, a tourbillon pocket watch, this time in the form of a wristwatch. This "queen of complications" can be admired by opening the hinged case back, a characteristic feature of an officer's watch.

Movement | electro-mechanical 1210 calibre, patented bi-rotor motor, 32,000 Hz quartz frequency, 28.50 x 28.30 mm Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds, standby mode after 30 minutes of non-use, automatic timesetting when movement is detected via the oscillating weight, visible on the dial side Dial | white Superluminova Case | tortue shape, titanium with rubber inlay, with or without diamonds, sapphire back, 34 x 35 mm, 7.35 mm high

Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie

Movement | hand-wound 1412 calibre, 178 parts, 32.60 mm ø, 5.95 mm high, 21,600 vibrations/hour frequency, 56-hour power reserve Functions | offset hours and minutes, small seconds, one-minute tourbillon on the movement side Dial | grained silver with engraved filled Roman numerals and hour ring Case | 18k 4N rose gold and guilloché silver, double back in sapphire and 4N gold or guilloché silver, 40 mm ø, 10 mm high

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Franck Muller

CLASSIC

48

DESIGN

VANGUARD

7 DAYS POWER RESERVE SKELETON

Sporting a signature Curvex case, the new Vanguard collection from Franck Muller adopts a sleek and stylish dimension. The eye is immediately drawn to the applied raised numerals, which are handpolished and brushed. Driven by a self-winding movement inside titanium or red gold, the Vanguard is proposed in classic and chronograph versions, all with a distinctly masculine dynamic.

Late last year, Franck Muller unveiled its 7 Days Power Reserve in a skeleton version that matches aesthetic with tradition. The 1700 calibre, whose two barrels deliver a 7-day power reserve, has been reworked with particular emphasis on the movement finish, including hand-chamfered bridges. Crafted in a choice of 18k gold or stainless steel, this model comes as two versions with a Cintrée Curvex or round case.

Movement | self-winding FM 0800 calibre, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 42-hour power reserve

Movement | hand-wound 1740 skeleton calibre, 18,000 vibrations/hour frequency, 7-day power reserve

Functions | hours, minutes, seconds, date

Functions | hours, minutes

Dial | black, brushed, raised numerals

Dial | skeleton

Case | Cintrée Curvex, titanium or red gold, 44 x 53.70 mm, 12.80 mm high

Case | round or Cintrée Curvex, 18k gold or stainless steel

Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie


Franck Muller

TECHNICAL

DESIGN

WOMEN'S

GIGA GONG TOURBILLON

INFINITY SUNRISE

In 2011 Franck Muller released the Giga Tourbillon watch equipped with, as its name implies, the biggest tourbillon on the market, measuring 20 mm in diameter. Now the brand's watchmakers have gone a step further and introduced a new complication to this skeleton watch to produce the Giga Gong Tourbillon. The gong in question strikes the hour to indicate time audibly. Four series-coupled barrels provide a power reserve of six days or 40 hours, depending whether the strike function, which is activated by a pusher, is operating or not.

The new Infinity Sunrise collection expresses Franck Muller's vision of elegance and femininity. The dial, which is crafted in-house, results from a lengthy process whereby the "template" on which the diamonds will be set is cut from a solid silver mass, then adjusted to fit the mother-of-pearl dial. The sparkle of the diamonds, extending outwards like sunrays, is intensified by the shimmering mother-ofpearl. Both a jewel and a watch, the Infinity Sunrise is the epitome of elegance every day.

Movement | hand-wound tourbillon calibre, 447 parts, 34.40 x 41.40 mm, 8.50 mm high, 18,000 vibrations/hour frequency, 6-day power reserve without strike, 40 hours with strike Functions | hours, minutes, seconds on the tourbillon, power-reserve indicator, hour strike in passing, strike on/ off indicator

Movement | quartz

Dial | skeleton

Dial | mother-of-pearl, silver, diamonds

Case | CintrĂŠe Curvex, 18k gold, 43.70 x 59.20 mm, 14 mm high

Case | 18k gold or stainless steel, bezel set with diamonds

Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie

Functions | hours, minutes

49


Girard-Perregaux

TECHNICAL

DESIGN

TRI-AXIAL TOURBILLON

NEO-TOURBILLON WITH THREE BRIDGES

This new timepiece confirms Girard-Perregaux as a specialist in high-precision mechanisms. As the name suggests, the tourbillon in the Tri-Axial Tourbillon rotates around three separate axes. Incorporated into the sapphire crystal of the dial, a domed sapphire lens surrounds the cage, allowing it sufficient space in which to rotate. The dial is constructed on multiple levels, with hours and minutes on a smaller, offset dial featuring a Clou de Paris design. The power-reserve indicator is positioned for pleasing visual symmetry. Limited edition of ten.

A concept imagined 150 years ago is given a distinctly avant-garde face in this Neo-Tourbillon With Three Bridges. While the original architecture and codes are preserved, the shape of the now skeletonised bridges, the form of the crystal and the heart of the calibre itself have been redesigned with a focus on three-dimensionality. The movement is entirely new and larger than in previous versions.

Movement | hand-wound Manufacture GP09300-0001 calibre, 317 parts, 21,600 vibrations/hour frequency, 52-hour power reserve

50

TECHNICAL

Functions | hours, minutes, tri-axial tourbillon, power reserve

Movement | self-winding Manufacture GP09400-0001 calibre, 245 parts, 21,600 vibrations/hour frequency, 70-hour power reserve

Dial | anthracite grey, offset silvered dial with Clou de Paris decoration

Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds on the tourbillon

Case | rose gold, 48 mm ø, water-resistant to 30 metres

Case | rose gold, 45 mm ø, water-resistant to 30 metres

Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie


Girard-Perregaux

WOMEN'S

DESIGN

WOMEN'S

DESIGN

CAT’S EYE BLOOM

CAT’S EYE ANNIVERSARY

The coveted Cat's Eye collection welcomes a timepiece with particular feminine appeal thanks to the stylised peonies that blossom on its dial. These delicately executed flowers are crafted to resemble lace. They are set onto the hand-polished, motherof-pearl dial then finished with a mesh-like overlay. Each of the flowers appears to have been embroidered. Instead they are fashioned from seven layers of material which are successively applied to achieve the desired volume and three-dimensional effect.

Girard-Perregaux's iconic women's collection celebrates its 10th anniversary with an explosion of precious stones. Rays dart across the dial, originating not in the centre but at the 9 o'clock position for a visually dynamic effect. As well as resonating with the oval form of the case, this asymmetry allows the rays to be of different lengths to create a dazzling "firework" impression.

Movement | self-winding Manufacture GP03300-0097 calibre, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 46-hour power reserve

Movement | self-winding Manufacture GP03300-0101 calibre, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 46-hour power reserve

Functions | hours, minutes

Functions | hours, minutes

Dial | mother-of-pearl

Dial | onyx

Case | oval, steel, 64 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.95 carat), 37.84 x 32.84 mm, water-resistant to 30 metres

Case | oval, white gold and diamonds, 35.44 x 30.44 mm, water-resistant to 30 metres

Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie

51


Glashütte Original

DESIGN

CLASSIC

PANOMATICINVERSE

SEVENTIES CHRONOGRAPH PANORAMA DATE

Successfully introduced in 2008, the PanoInverse was Glashütte Original's first watch to invert the position of certain parts so that the duplex swan-neck fine adjustment could be seen on the dial side. This year the Saxon watchmaker presents a second version, equipped with the self-winding 91-02 precision calibre offering a 42-hour power reserve, hours, minutes, small seconds and Glashütte Original's signature panorama date display inside a 42 mm case. Here is a timepiece that matches technical sophistication with an original design and smart functionality.

Glashütte Original continues to embody highprecision, German mechanical watchmaking which can be traced back to 1845 in the Saxon town of Glashütte. The Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date is the latest addition to the 20th Century Vintage Collection. The brand is renowned for a number of complications, including chronographs, and the new 37-02 calibre, entirely developed and made by Glashütte Original, is the first to be built specifically as a chronograph.

Movement | self-winding 91-02 calibre, 38.20 mm ø, 7.10 mm high, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 42-hour power reserve

52

TECHNICAL

Movement | self-winding 37-02 calibre, 31.60 mm ø, 8 mm high, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 70-hour power reserve

Functions | offset hours and minutes, small seconds, large date, balance/spring and duplex swan-neck fine adjustment on the dial side

Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds with powerreserve indicator, large date, stop seconds, flyback chronograph with centre seconds hand, 30-minute counter on a subdial, 12-hour counter in an aperture

Dial | rhodium-plated with gold appliques

Dial | ruthenium-plated, sunray pattern, gold appliques

Case | 18k red gold, sapphire back, 42 mm ø, 12.30 mm high, water-resistant to 50 metres

Case | stainless steel, sapphire back, 40 x 40 mm, 13.50 mm high, water-resistant to 100 metres

Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie


Glashütte Original

TECHNICAL

CLASSIC

SENATOR CHRONOGRAPH PANORAMA DATE Glashütte Original's new 37-01 column-wheel chronograph, developed and built inside its workshops, makes its debut in the Senator Chronograph Panorama Date. A landmark in the collection, it borrows the signature, classic lines of the Senator watch and is central to the Manufacture's "Art & Technik" pillar.

Movement | self-winding 37-01 calibre, 31.60 mm diameter, 8 mm high, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 70-hour power reserve Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds with powerreserve indicator, large date, stop seconds, flyback chronograph with centre seconds hand, 30-minute counter, 12-hour counter Dial | lacquered, grained silver Case | 18k red gold, sapphire back, 42 mm ø, 14 mm high, water-resistant to 50 metres

Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie

53


Greubel Forsey

Photo of the prototype and not the final version

TECHNICAL

QP À ÉQUATION When Greubel Forsey "tackles" a complication, it is always with the aim of delivering a result that is both technically and aesthetically accomplished, as once again confirmed by this year's perpetual calendar model. Adjustable in both directions, it incorporates an equation of time and the now famous 24-second tourbillon inclined at 25°. The key to this innovation is a coding mechanism which changes the different indications on the front and back of the watch. Simplicity itself to use, this is no less another tour de force from the brand. Movement | hand-wound Manufacture GF07 calibre with patented 24-second tourbillon inclined at 25°, perpetual calendar and equation of time, 570 parts, 37 mm ø, 9.55 mm high, 21,600 vibrations/hour frequency, two barrels, 72-hour power reserve Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds, 24-second tourbillon, bi-directional perpetual calendar with date, day and month, leap year indicator, day/night indication (24h with red zone), power-reserve indicator, function selection, equation of time on the back showing seasons, solstices, equinoxes and current year in four digits Dial | gold, multiple tiers Case | white gold, asymmetric convex sapphire crystal, transparent back with asymmetric flat sapphire crystal

54

TECHNICAL

DESIGN

TOURBILLON 24 SECONDES CONTEMPORAIN SERTI For its tenth anniversary, Greubel Forsey showers precious stones on one of its iconic watches: the Tourbillon 24 Secondes Contemporain. The sparkle of baguette diamonds - 272 in all for 9.71 carats - on the bezel, lugs and part of the dial illuminates the tourbillon as it rotates, while an ocean of blued titanium evokes a maritime mood, with the diamonds suggesting the white caps of waves.

Movement | hand-wound Manufacture GF01c calibre with patented 24-second tourbillon inclined at 25°, 267 parts, 36.4 mm ø, 10.9 mm high, 21,600 vibrations/hour frequency, two barrels, 72-hour power reserve Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds, 24-second tourbillon, power-reserve indicator, tourbillon rotation indicator Dial | blued titanium, partially set with diamonds, small seconds dial and power-reserve sector in gold Case | white gold with convex sapphire crystal, transparent back, screwed lugs set with 80 baguette diamonds, bezel set with 60 baguette diamonds

Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie


H. Moser & Cie

TECHNICAL

CLASSIC

VENTURER SMALL SECONDS The Venturer Small Seconds is first in a new line-up of watches from H. Moser & Cie. Taking its cue from the company's historic pocket watches, the Venturer collection is no less contemporary in style with distinct references to the Bauhaus era. To mark the event, H. Moser & Cie has equipped this debut launch with a new Manufacture movement, the HMC 327, which has been designed to fit closely to the sapphire case back where it can be viewed at leisure. H. Moser & Cie confirms its return, with brio.

TECHNICAL

CLASSIC

ENDEAVOUR PERPETUAL CALENDAR BLACK EDITION H. Moser & Cie instils new life into its perpetual calendar, probably one of the most elegantly understated on the market and among the few which can be adjusted forwards and backwards, at any time. The case of this new version is in DLC-coated titanium as a complement to the existing models in gold and platinum. Confirming this more urban, contemporary direction, this new Endeavour watch has a sapphire back through which to admire the mat black finish of the movement whose blackened escapement bridge allows the Moser escapement to shine through.

Movement | hand-wound Manufacture HMC 341 calibre with hacking seconds, 34 mm ø, 5.80 mm high, 18,000 vibrations/hour frequency, 7-day power reserve Movement | hand-wound Manufacture HMC 327 calibre with hacking seconds, 32 mm ø, 4.40 mm high, 18,000 vibrations/hour frequency, 3-day power reserve Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds, powerreserve indicator on the movement side Dial | fumé red gold, slate or silvered with sunray pattern Case | 18k red gold, 39 mm ø, 12.50 mm high, sapphire back

Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie

Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds, perpetual calendar with large instantaneous date in an aperture, month by central hand, leap-year cycle indicator on the movement side, power-reserve indicator Dial | black Case | titanium with DLC treatment, sapphire back, 40.80 mm ø, 11.10 mm high

55


Harry Winston

TECHNICAL

DESIGN

HISTOIRE DE TOURBILLON 5

PROJECT Z8

Since 2009, Harry Winston has pushed the boundaries of the tourbillon, one of watchmaking's major complications. The adventure continues this year with Histoire de Tourbillon 5 whose movement is structured on multiple levels like a mechanical landscape, with a low-lying movement, bridges placed just below the surface, and the tri-axial tourbillon towering over the scene from inside its dome. The skeletonised movement takes further still this idea to totally expose the mechanics behind the tourbillon. So as to counterbalance the extreme lightness of the tourbillon carriages, which rotate in 45, 75 and 300 seconds, a gold bridge was created that would maintain the subtle balance between them, and make this fifth Histoire de Tourbillon a very wearable watch. Limited edition of 20.

Project Z8 is the latest Project Z, a line of watches crafted from Zalium, Harry Winston's exclusive, zirconium-based alloy that is harder than titanium and highly resistant to corrosion. This year's Project Z is a dual-time model distinguished by clearly separated functions and a notable feature concerning the retrograde dual-time display: while most can only be moved forwards, this one can be adjusted, via the crown, in both directions thanks to the additional clutch system, for faster and easier setting of the second time zone. Limited edition of 300.

Movement | hand-wound HW4303 skeleton calibre, 381 parts, 40.40 mm ø, 17.30 mm high, 21,600 vibrations/hour frequency, 50-hour power reserve Functions | offset hours on a disc at 2 o'clock, offset minutes on a disc at 4 o'clock, seconds on the tri-axial tourbillon at 9 o'clock, power-reserve indicator at 11 o'clock Case | 18k rose gold, sapphire back, 47 mm ø, 21.70 mm high, water-resistant to 30 metres

56

TECHNICAL

Movement | self-winding HW3502 calibre, 281 parts, silicon balance spring, 32 mm ø, 5.20 mm high, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency Functions | offset hours and minutes, day/night indicator, date in an aperture, movement operating indicator, retrograde hour for the second time zone Dial | galvanic black, circular satin-finish, central disc with reverse Clou de Paris Case | Zalium, sapphire back, 42.20 mm ø, 11.60 mm high, water-resistant to 100 metres

Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie


Harry Winston

WOMEN'S

WOMEN'S

DESIGN

MIDNIGHT DIAMOND SECOND 39MM

AVENUE C MINI ART DECO

Harry Winston has worked with Blancpain to develop certain of its new mechanical watches whose movements include a flat balance spring in silicon. The Midnight collection is an excellent example, with three models including this Diamond Second 39mm. Small seconds reproduce the floral motif of the Lily Cluster jewellery collection and, with each rotation, successively reveal three diamonds in a circular segment. While a tourbillon may draw the eye deeper into the movement, the fascination of seeing the dial brought to life is the same.

The first rectangular watch from Harry Winston, the Avenue collection finds inspiration in the Manhattan skyline. The geometric case of the Avenue C Mini Art Deco is recognisable at a glance. Diamonds sparkle across its delicate proportions, carefully studied to show off the slender lugs.

Movement | self-winding HW2201calibre, 214 parts, 26.20 mm ø, 4.47 mm high, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 68-hour power reserve Functions | offset hours and minutes, small seconds Dial | rosé champagne, sunray satin finish, 3 brilliant-cut diamond hour markers Case | 18k rose gold, 91 brilliant-cut diamonds, sapphire back, 39.30 mm ø, 10.40 mm high, water-resistant to 30 metres

Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie

Movement | quartz Functions | hours, minutes Dial | silvered, sunray guilloché, centre set with 66 brilliant-cut diamonds in a snow setting (0.17 carat) Case | 18k rose gold with 47 brilliant-cut diamonds (0,70 carat), 18k rose gold bracelet with 212 brilliant-cut diamonds (2.18 carats), 15.60 x 32.30 mm, 7.80 mm high, water-resistant to 30 metres

57


Hautlence

DESIGN

ORIGINE DESTINATION 04 Until now, Hautlence equipped all its watches with movements that were developed and assembled in-house under the Atelier name. While movement development remains an integral part of its work, the company has always made clear its interest in collaborating with outside partners for certain lines. Now the brand is proposing series-produced models under the Signature label, fitted with externally sourced movements. Destination, driven by a Soprod dual time-zone calibre, is the first line to carry this new label.

Movement | self-winding Soprod 9351/A10-2 calibre, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 42-hour power reserve Functions | hours, minutes, large date, second time zone, day/night indicator Dial | opaline brown with Clou de Paris decoration Case | titanium with brown PVD treatment and 18k 5N red gold, water-resistant to 30 metres

58

Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie


Hermès

TECHNICAL

WOMEN'S

TECHNICAL

DESIGN

CAPE COD TONNEAU SILVER

DRESSAGE L’HEURE MASQUÉE

A pillar of Hermès' watch collections since 1991, Cape Cod has reinvented itself with infinite elegance, all the while preserving its characteristic roundness and distinctive lugs. New features include a redesigned dial and interchangeable straps for the entire collection. The case of this Tonneau model is proposed in Silver, an exclusive silver alloy which lastingly preserves the unique sheen of this precious metal.

The Parisian firm adds to its Le Temps de l'Imaginaire collection with a watch that again plays with time: Dressage L'heure masquée. The hour hand is hidden behind the constantly moving minute hand, and appears only when the pusher in the crown is pressed, at the same time revealing a second time zone. When the pusher is released, the hour hand and second time zone disappear again, and time regains an air of mystery. The patented H1925 movement is by Vaucher Manufacture. Limited edition of 500.

Movement | quartz Functions | hours, minutes Dial | opaline silvered, stamped pattern in the centre Case | Silver (Hermès' proprietary certified 925 sterling silver alloy) with or without 64 diamonds (1.6 carats), 30 x 33.60 mm, interchangeable straps, water-resistant to 30 metres

Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie

Movement | self-winding Manufacture H1925 calibre, 26 mm ø, 3.70 mm high, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 45-hour power reserve Functions | hours, minutes, second time zone in an aperture, "hidden hour" function by pushbutton to show the hour hand and second time zone Dial | opaline silvered, vertical guilloché in the centre Case | cushion shape, 750 5N rose gold, sapphire back, 40.50 x 38.40 mm, water-resistant to 50 metres

59


Hermès

DESIGN

ARCEAU MILLEFIORI 41MM BLUE

FAUBOURG

Already in 2013, Hermès unveiled a muchcommented showcase for the expertise of Les Cristalleries Royales de Saint-Louis, which has been producing glass and crystal since 1586 and has been part of the Hermès group since the late 1980s. One expression of the Cristalleries' unique skill is glass paperweights, crafted using a technique known as millefiori. The first of these paperweights were made in the middle of the nineteenth century. For this Millefiori watch, successive layers of crystal are applied to enamel to produce coloured rods, which are sliced into wafer-thin sections then assembled into richly embellished dials.

With a diameter of just 15.50 millimetres, the Faubourg d’Hermès watch reduces time to its most essential. Its delicate design has the elegance of a miniature and the discretion of those very special objects that are almost too precious to share.

Movement | self-winding H1837 calibre, 193 parts, 26 mm ø, 3.70 mm high, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 50-hour power reserve Functions | hours, minutes Dial | millefiori crystal Case | 750 white gold, sapphire back, 41 mm ø, waterresistant to 30 metres

60

WOMEN'S

Movement | quartz Functions | hours, minutes Dial | white lacquer, diamond at 12 o'clock Case | rose, white or yellow gold, with or without diamonds, gold bracelet, leather strap or satin strap, 15.50 mm ø

Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie


Hublot

TECHNICAL

TECHNICAL

DESIGN

BIG BANG UNICO CHRONO BI-RETROGRADE FIFA 2014

CLASSIC FUSION CATHEDRAL TOURBILLON MINUTE REPEATER

This is the Official Watch of the 2014 FIFA World Cup, as well as the first Big Bang Unico Chrono Bi-Retrograde. The new, patent-pending movement drives a central, bi-retrograde chronograph. The chrono seconds and minute hands move left to right across a circular arc of 45 minutes (half of a football match) with an area for 15 minutes of extra time giving a total of 60 minutes. Numbered and limited edition of 100.

Hublot's second minute repeater combined with a tourbillon has chosen a sapphire dial to reveal the artistry of its movement in a striking contrast of materials. There is a redesigned timesetting function and a traditional tourbillon inside a 13.6 mm cage. The minute repeater sounds a double cathedral chime.

Movement | self-winding Manufacture HUB1260 UNICO calibre, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 72-hour power reserve Functions | offset hours and minutes, small seconds, central chrono with bi-retrograde minutes and seconds

Movement | hand-wound Manufacture HUB8001 calibre, 21,600 vibrations/hour frequency, 5-day power reserve

Dial | black, yellow retrograde minute scale and minute hand, green retrograde seconds scale and seconds hand

Functions | hours, minutes, tourbillon, minute repeater with double cathedral chime

Case | round, 18k King Gold, 45 mm ø, carbon-fibre bezel, water-resistant to 100 metres

Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie

Dial | sapphire Case | 18k King Gold, 45 mm ø, water-resistant to 30 metres

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Hublot

TECHNICAL

DESIGN

TECHNICAL

DESIGN

CLASSIC FUSION TOURBILLON FIRMAMENT

SPIRIT OF BIG BANG

Never before seen in watchmaking and exclusive to Hublot, osmium is one of the rarest metals on Earth. As well as having exceptional hardness, it is also the densest and heaviest metal at 22.6 g/cm3, heavier even than platinum. In its compacted, crystallised form, osmium becomes inalterable in air. It brings its distinctive, blue-tinted sparkle to the dial of this new Classic Fusion watch. Osmium is crystallised by means of a highly sophisticated process which takes it to its melting point of 3,033°C, thereby modifying its structure to form osmium crystal.

One of a kind at Hublot, a tonneau case brings its geometric form to this Spirit of Big Bang. The brand's favourite "sandwich" construction enables a fusion of materials. Inside the case beats the new Hublot HUB4700 calibre, redesigned in close collaboration with Zenith and based on an El Primero chronograph with date. Purists acknowledge this movement as one of the best Swiss chronographs ever made.

Movement | self-winding HUB4700 calibre on a Zenith El Primero base, 36,000 vibrations/hour frequency, 50-hour power reserve Movement | hand-wound Manufacture HUB6017 calibre, 21,600 vibrations/hour frequency, 5-day power reserve Functions | hours, minutes, tourbillon Dial | osmium crystal Case | black ceramic, 45 mm ø, water-resistant to 30 metres

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Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph with centre seconds hand, 30-minute counter, 3-hour counter, date Dial | sapphire Case | tonneau, titanium, titanium ceramic and 18k King Gold, 51 x 45 mm, water-resistant to 100 metres

Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie


IWC

CLASSIC

TECHNICAL

CLASSIC

AQUATIMER AUTOMATIC

AQUATIMER AUTOMATIC 2000

The new Aquatimer Automatic from IWC makes no secret of its vintage inspiration. The purist dial and dive time scale with 15-minute graduations on the internal rotating bezel recall the very first Aquatimer from 1967, while the narrow, sloping external rotating bezel and the rounded, recessed grips refer back to the Ocean 2000, a 1982 model designed by Ferdinand A. Porsche. The external/internal rotating bezel is an innovative new feature.

Water-resistant to 2,000 metres, this new Aquatimer is built for professional divers. Like all the new dive watches in IWC's 2014 collection, it comes equipped with the new system of external and internal rotating bezels; the internal bezel can only be turned counter-clockwise as an additional safety guarantee for the diver. A clutch, concealed by a cover at 9 o'clock, transmits the rotation of the external bezel to the interior of the case and the internal rotating bezel, a much easier system than by the crown.

Movement | self-winding Manufacture 30120 calibre, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 42-hour power reserve Functions | hours, minutes, central hacking seconds, date

Movement | self-winding Manufacture 80110 calibre, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 44-hour power reserve Functions | hours, minutes, central hacking seconds, date

Dial | black, external and internal rotating bezels with SafeDive system

Dial | black, external and internal rotating bezels with SafeDive system

Case | stainless steel, 42 mm ø, 14 mm high, water-resistant to 300 metres

Case | titanium, 46 mm ø, 20.5 mm high, water-resistant to 2,000 metres

Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie

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IWC

TECHNICAL

DESIGN

AQUATIMER PERPETUAL CALENDAR DIGITAL DATE-MONTH

AQUATIMER CHRONOGRAPH EDITION "GALAPAGOS ISLANDS"

IWC's speciality perpetual calendar featuring a large digital date and month with jumping mechanism makes a new addition to the Aquatimer range. The date and month discs are covered with mesh grilles that offer a view of the jumping mechanism. Limited edition of 50.

IWC confirms its commitment to the preservation of the threatened Galapagos Islands with this first edition to be driven by the IWC-manufactured chronograph movement. Part of the proceeds from sales benefit the Charles Darwin Foundation. The mat black rubber coating on the stainless steel case, a particular feature of this watch, is applied in a complex vulcanisation process during which each case is placed in a mould and bonded to the rubber by pressure.

Movement | self-winding Manufacture 89801 calibre, perpetual calendar, chronograph, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 68-hour power reserve Functions | hours, minutes, small hacking seconds, perpetual calendar with jumping mechanism, large date and month, leap year display, flyback chronograph with hours and minutes in a counter at 12 o'clock, centre seconds Dial | black, external and internal rotating bezels with SafeDive system Case | rubber-coated titanium casing ring, external bezel and case back in 18k red gold, 49 mm ø, 19 mm high, water-resistant to 100 metres

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Movement | self-winding Manufacture 89365 calibre, chronograph, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 68-hour power reserve Functions | hours, minutes, small hacking seconds, date, flyback chronograph with centre seconds and minutes at 12 o'clock Dial | black, external and internal rotating bezels with SafeDive system Case | rubber-coated stainless steel, 44 mm ø, 17 mm high, water-resistant to 300 metres

Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie


Jaeger-LeCoultre

TECHNICAL

CLASSIC

HYBRIS MECHANICA 11 − MASTER ULTRA THIN MINUTE REPEATER FLYING TOURBILLON The eleventh opus in the Hybris Mechanica collection and the first ultra-thin grande complication, this is the thinnest minute repeater ever made with a height of just 7.9 mm. An ingenious system reduces the silent time lapses between chimes. Drawing on eight patents of which six are new, this watch also includes a novel flying tourbillon with a flying balance, a new high-performance balance spring, a peripheral self-winding system and a retractable monopusher. Limited edition of 75.

TECHNICAL

MASTER COMPRESSOR CHRONOGRAPH CERAMIC A chronograph and a GMT function with day/night indication cohabit inside the imposing case of this new launch. A patented compression key offers an additional security in terms of water-resistance. The supremely legible dial is cased in ceramic, a material known for its exceptional scratch-resistance. As for the movement, it benefits from the very latest technological innovations by Jaeger-LeCoultre. Limited edition of 500.

Movement | self-winding Jaeger-LeCoultre 362 calibre with peripheral oscillating weight, tourbillon, minute repeater, 33.3 mm ø, 4.8 mm high, 471 parts, 21,600 vibrations/hour frequency, 45-hour power reserve

Movement | self-winding Jaeger-LeCoultre 757 calibre, chronograph, GMT, 300 parts, 6.27 mm high, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 65-hour power reserve

Functions | hours, minutes, flying tourbillon with flying balance, minute repeater reducing silent time lapses between chimes

Functions | hours, minutes, date, chronograph, movement operating indicator, second time zone with day/night indicator

Dial | silvered, grained

Dial | semi-mat black

Case | round, 18k extra-white gold, sapphire back, 41 mm ø, 7.9 mm high, water-resistant to 30 metres

Case | round, ceramic, 46 mm ø, water-resistant to 100 metres

Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie

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Jaeger-LeCoultre

TECHNICAL

66

CLASSIC

CLASSIC

WOMEN'S

MASTER ULTRA THIN GRAND FEU

RENDEZ-VOUS DATE

True to the Master Ultra Thin spirit, this new launch highlights the beauty of enamel, one of the oldest crafts in the Manufacture's repertoire of skills. The white gold dial is covered with grand feu enamel, in the purest tradition of this age-old technique which only a small circle of craftsmen still master. It imparts a noble elegance to a watch whose beauty is underscored by simplicity of expression.

Jaeger-LeCoultre's leading lady adopts a new size that will delight the most slender wrists. The rose gold case, which is circled by a diamond-set bezel, encloses the Jaeger-LeCoultre 966 calibre, one of the smallest self-winding movements there is. The subtle ribbing of the finely crafted guilloché on the dial suggests the delicate texture of wild silk.

Movement | hand-wound Jaeger-LeCoultre 849 calibre, 1.85 mm high, 21,600 vibrations/hour frequency, 35-hour power reserve

Movement | self-winding Jaeger-LeCoultre 966 calibre, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 42-hour power reserve

Functions | hours, minutes

Functions | hours, minutes, seconds, date

Dial | white Grand Feu enamel

Dial | silvered, guilloché

Case | round, 18k white gold, 39 mm ø, 4.05 mm high, water-resistant to 30 metres

Case | round, 18k rose gold, diamond-set bezel (0.42 carats), sapphire back, 27.5 mm ø, water-resistant to 30 metres

Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie


Jaquet Droz

DESIGN

CLASSIC

GRANDE SECONDE QUANTIÈME IVORY ENAMEL Three years after its launch in 2011, the Grande Seconde Quantième returns with a dial and a movement that bring new vitality to the codes of Jaquet Droz. In a major evolution, a silicon balance spring and pallet fork with inversed horns have been added to the movement. Insensitive to shock, variations in temperature and pressure, silicon is also immune to the influence of magnetic fields and maintains perfect stability over time. The dial is now double enamelled using the Grand Feu technique.

Movement | self-winding Jaquet Droz 2660Q2.P calibre, silicon balance spring, two barrels, 28,800 vibrations/ hour frequency, 68-hour power reserve Functions | offset hours and minutes, large seconds, date

CLASSIC

GRANDE SECONDE SW STEEL In 2008 Jaquet Droz launched the Grande Seconde SW, a sporting interpretation of its iconic timepiece. This year the line is joined by the first version to measure 41 mm in diameter. The serrated bezel is unchanged while the Côtes de Genève pattern on the dial links this modern watch back to tradition.

Movement | self-winding Jaquet Droz 2663A-S calibre, two barrels, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 68-hour power reserve Functions | offset hours and minutes, large seconds

Dial | ivory Grand Feu enamel on two levels

Dial | anthracite grey, Côtes de Genève

Case | red gold, 39 mm ø, 12.13 mm high, water-resistant to 30 metres

Case | steel, rubber-moulded crown, 41 mm ø, 10.89 mm high, water-resistant to 50 metres

Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie

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Jaquet Droz

DESIGN

PETITE HEURE MINUTE PAILLONNテ右 An ornamental art originating in the eighteenth century, paillonnテゥe enamel brings aristocratic beauty to this watch. Based on the Grand Feu technique, gold motifs are meticulously applied on blue enamel over the course of successive firings at temperatures approaching 1,000ツーC. Only a rare few craftsmen still master this technique. The blued steel hands echo the ultramarine dial, while the warm glow of the red gold case reflects the gleaming gold paillons.

Movement | self-winding Jaquet Droz 2653 calibre, two barrels, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 68-hour power reserve Functions | hours, minutes Dial | blue Grand Feu enamel with paillons Case | 18k red gold, 39 mm テク, 11.52 mm high, waterresistant to 30 metres

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Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie


JeanRichard

CLASSIC

DESIGN

AEROSCOPE

TERRASCOPE

In the Aeroscope family, three-hander models are able co-pilots to the chronograph versions. Engraved minutes around the bezel, Arabic numerals, and luminescent hour-markers and skeleton hands make for excellent legibility thanks to which the essence of time – hours, minutes and seconds – can be read at a glance. The new Aeroscope watches come in a variety of dial colours, with a case in natural titanium or titanium with a black DLC coating.

JeanRichard presents a new extension to the range, led by models showing hours, minutes, seconds and date. This colourful version contrasts a vertical satin finish on the flat case middle and sides with a polished finish on the sloping edges. A stylish watch for the urban explorer.

Movement | self-winding JR60 calibre, 28,800 vibrations/ hour frequency, 42-hour power reserve Movement | self-winding JR60 calibre, 28,800 vibrations/ hour frequency, 42-hour power reserve

Functions | hours, minutes, seconds, date

Functions | hours, minutes, seconds, date

Dial | white, blue hour-markers with luminescent orange coating

Dial | green Case | titanium with black DLC treatment, 44 mm ø, 12.60 mm high, water-resistant to 100 metres

Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie

Case | aluminium, red case middle, blue case sides, green bezel, 44 mm ø, 12.60 mm high, water-resistant to 100 metres

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Kari Voutilainen

TECHNICAL

TOURBILLON 6

VINGT-8 GMT

This limited edition of six brings further confirmation of master watchmaker Kari Voutilainen's command of his craft, from the new construction of the in-house tourbillon to the outstanding quality of finish applied to each of his timepieces. Apart from the mainsprings, balance springs, jewels, cases and buckles, every single component including dials is produced in-house. Such an uncompromising approach undoubtedly represents the summit of Fine Watchmaking.

Kari Voutilainen adds to the range of timepieces fitted with his famous Vingt-8 calibre which incorporates an additional 70 parts to propose a second time zone with day/night indication on a disc inside the subsidiary seconds. This watch, only a handful of which are made each year, always to order, is a chance for the master watchmaker's atelier to demonstrate its complete command of watchmaking's métiers d'art. On the movement side, the imposing, 13.60 mm balance wheel is prominent at 4 o'clock.

Movement | Manufacture tourbillon calibre, directimpulse escapement with two escape wheels, 30.50 mm diameter, 6 mm high, 18,000 vibrations/hour frequency Functions | offset hours and minutes, seconds on the large one-minute tourbillon, 14 mm tourbillon carriage ø

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TECHNICAL

Movement | hand-wound Manufacture 28 calibre, 18,000 vibrations/hour frequency, 50-hour power reserve Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds, second time zone with day/night indication, adjusted by pushing the crown

Dial | blued silver, hand-guilloché

Dial | Manual engraving "Swiss Mountain" - day/night indicator in rose gold and white gold, manually engraved

Case | 18k white gold, sapphire back, 39 mm ø

Case | 18k white gold, sapphire back, 39 mm ø

Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie


Louis Vuitton

TECHNICAL

DESIGN

WOMEN'S

ESCALE WORLDTIME

EMPRISE YELLOW GOLD

Louis Vuitton offers its personal interpretation of the world time function. The dial is formed by three rotating discs, adjusted via the crown. The external disc, in colour and on two levels, bears the initials of cities around the world. The wearer rotates it until the reference city aligns with the yellow arrow at 12 o'clock. The central disc, which permanently rotates, is divided into two half-circles, one white and one black to differentiate between day and night hours. In its centre is a smaller disc, also in constant rotation, which carries the minutes.

Louis Vuitton captures a hint of Paris in the Emprise watch. The symmetrical square case, whose horns suggest the corner pieces on a Vuitton trunk, offers a crisp silhouette against the bevelled contours of the double facetted crystal. The strap can be in satin, or in leather embossed with a grosgrain pattern, two references borrowed from the world of couture. The dial of the gold version recreates the quilted fabric used to line the inside of steamer trunks.

Movement | self-winding Manufacture LV106 calibre, 218 parts, 37 mm ø, 6.65 mm high, 28,800 vibrations/hour, 38-hour power reserve

Movement | quartz

Functions | world time on discs

Functions | hours, minutes

Dial | rotating discs with hand-painted city initials

Dial | opaline silvered, quilted pattern

Case | 18k white gold, sapphire back, 41 mm ø, 9.75 mm high, water-resistant to 30 metres

Case | yellow gold, 23 x 23 mm, water-resistant to 50 metres

Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie

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Louis Vuitton

WOMEN'S

DESIGN

TAMBOUR MONOGRAM INFINI The design on the dial of the Tambour Monogram Infini, crafted by Louis Vuitton's artisan-dialmakers, originated in the Voyage dans le Temps fine jewellery collection, introduced in 2012, which in turn is a contemporary interpretation of a Tibetan mandala made from Monogram flower petals repeated over and over in an endless circle to symbolise infinity.

WOMEN'S

DESGN

DENTELLE DE MONOGRAM WITH POLYNESIAN MOTHER-OF-PEARL DIAL Delicacy and refinement define the Dentelle de Monogram watch. Enclosed in a minimalist, white gold case measuring 30 mm in diameter, the dial reproduces the Dentelle de Monogram motif that was introduced with the Voyage dans le Temps fine jewellery collection in 2012. A design that slips effortlessly from jewel to watch, here reinterpreted on Polynesian mother-of-pearl and framed by the sparkle of diamonds on the bezel.

Movement | self-winding calibre Functions | hours, minutes Dial | sunray opaline silvered, 12 petals in 18k rose gold and diamonds, mother-of pearl Monogram flower in the centre Case | 18k rose gold, diamond-set bezel, 35 mm ø, water-resistant to 50 metres

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Movement | quartz Functions | hours, minutes Dial | Polynesian mother-of-pearl, Dentelle de Monogram pattern Case | 18k white gold, diamond-set bezel, 30 mm ø, water-resistant to 30 metres

Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie


MaĂŽtres du Temps

TECHNICAL

CHAPTER 1 TONNEAU TRANSPARENCE TITANIUM MaĂŽtres du Temps returns to its Chapter One with this limited edition of 11 in titanium with a sapphire dial. Its vast transparency is a match for this grande complication watch whose movement, the work of Christophe Claret and Peter Speake-Marin, lays bare its secrets and a rarely achieved quality of finish.

Movement | hand-wound SHC02.1 tourbillon calibre, 558 parts, 51 x 32 mm, 21,600 vibrations/hour frequency, 60-hour power reserve Functions | hours, minutes, monopusher chronograph with central hand and 60-minute counter, retrograde date, retrograde GMT, one-minute tourbillon, day of the week and moon phases on rollers Dial | sapphire Case | titanium, sapphire back, 62.60 x 45.90 mm, 18 mm high

Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie

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MB&F

TECHNICAL

DESIGN

LEGACY MACHINE 101 Legacy Machine 101 is driven by the very first MB&F movement to have been entirely developed in-house by Guillaume ThĂŠvenin, with the help of Kari Voutilainen for the shape and finishing of the parts. Eric Giroud is once again in charge of design. As on LM1, the 14-mm balance wheel of the LM101 hangs majestically from twin arches, allowing a view of the escapement at the same time. As well as its smaller case, the LM101 stands out from its predecessors for its more conventional power-reserve indication, shown by a hand on a subdial.

Movement | hand-wound, three-dimensional calibre, 229 parts, 18,000 vibrations/hour frequency, 45-hour power reserve Functions | hours, minutes, power-reserve indicator Dial | balance wheel suspended above the movement, white lacquered hour/minute and power-reserve subdials Case | 18k red or white gold, sapphire back, 40 mm ø, 16 mm high

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Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie


Montblanc

TECHNICAL

COLLECTION VILLERET 1858 EXOTOURBILLON RATTRAPANTE The ExoTourbillon Rattrapante displays an unprecedented combination of complications in the finest tradition of Montblanc's Manufacture Montblanc Villeret. First a tourbillon, whose large balance is positioned outside the tourbillon cage. The different time indications, complete with a second time zone, are shown on a regulator dial with central minutes, small seconds at 9 o'clock, and the hour in both time zones at 6 o'clock. The split-seconds chronograph displays centre seconds with minutes at 3 o'clock. Limited edition of 18.

CLASSIC

MEISTERSTÜCK HERITAGE MOONPHASE With a name that alludes to the fountain pen launched in 1924, and which has since become an icon of the brand, the Meisterstück Heritage Moonphase is Montblanc's supremely classic interpretation of the moon-phase watch. These moon phases are shown at 6 o'clock inside a display that also indicates the date by means of a hand. These new horological masterpieces are distinguished by craftsmanship, timeless design and perfect functionality.

Movement | hand-wound Manufacture MB M16.61 calibre, split-seconds chronograph, GMT, four-minute tourbillon, 436 parts, 38.4 mm ø, 11.9 mm high, 18,000 vibrations/hour frequency, 50-hour power reserve Functions | hours and local hour at 6 o'clock, central minutes, small seconds at 9 o'clock, day/night indicator at 4 o'clock, monopusher split-seconds chronograph with seconds and split-seconds in the centre, 30-minute counter at 3 o'clock, 4-minute tourbillon at 12 o'clock Dial | 18k gold with applied scales in Grand Feu enamel for seconds, hours, 24-hour display and 30-minute counter Case | 18k white gold, convex sapphire crystal, sapphire back, 47 mm ø, 18.20 mm high, water-resistant to 30 metres

Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie

Movement | self-winding mechanical MB 29.14 calibre, moon phases, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 42-hour power reserve Functions | hours, minutes, large seconds, date by hand, moon phases Dial | sunburst silvery white, slightly cambered Case | stainless steel, sapphire back, 39 mm ø, 10.24 mm high, water-resistant to 30 metres

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Montblanc

CLASSIC

TECHNICAL

MEISTERSTÜCK HERITAGE PERPETUAL CALENDAR Montblanc gives watchmaking's grandes complications their most classic expression in the new Meisterstück Heritage collection. This perpetual calendar is a perfect illustration, with the harmonious arrangement of its different displays within a timelessly restrained design. The 39 mm diameter of the case is further evidence that this collection banishes the superfluous. Every detail has been carefully considered to seduce admirers of a perfectly "measured" measurement of time.

Movement | self-winding mechanical MB 29.15 calibre, perpetual calendar, moon phases, 28,800 vibrations/ hour frequency, 42-hour power reserve Functions | hours, minutes, perpetual calendar with date, day and month by hands, leap-year cycle shown by an arrow inside the month display at 12 o'clock, age and phases of the moon Dial | sunburst silvery white, slightly cambered Case | 18k red gold, sapphire back, 39 mm ø, 10.27 mm high, water-resistant to 30 metres

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TECHNICAL

TIMEWALKER CHRONOGRAPH 100 Montblanc is one of the few Manufactures to have accomplished the feat of producing a mechanical chronograph which measures hundredths of a second. This new TimeWalker is equipped with two "hearts": one for the time indication and one for the chronograph whose hand sweeps the dial in one second. Limited edition of 100.

Movement | hand-wound Manufacture MB M66-25 calibre, chronograph, two balances, 377 parts, 38.4 mm diameter, 7.63 mm high, 18,000 vibrations/hour frequency for the time indication, 360,000 vibrations/hour frequency for the chronograph, 100-hour power reserve for the time indication, 45-minute power reserve for the chronograph Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds at 9 o'clock, monopusher chronograph (pusher at 12 o'clock between the lugs) with central 1/100th of a second (1 revolution/ second), concentric 60-second and 15-minute counters at 6 o'clock Dial | sapphire crystal with several functional levels, continually running seconds on a sapphire crystal disc at 9 o'clock, inclined flange with 1/100th of a second scale Case | material mix of titanium, stainless steel and carbon fibre, sapphire back, 45.6 mm ø, 15.48 mm high, water-resistant to 30 metres

Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie


Omega

CLASSIC

TECHNICAL

CLASSIC

DE VILLE TRÉSOR

SPEEDMASTER MARK II

The De Ville Trésor, a new take on a classic Omega watch from 1949, resides in an elegantly slender, 40 mm case in Omega Sedna gold. A domed sapphire crystal protects an opaline dial, also domed, as are the 18k gold hour markers. Arched minute and second hands complement these curves. The calibre that brings them to life – the Master Co-Axial Chronometer – is inscribed on the dial. It is protected against magnetic fields greater than 15,000 gauss thanks to breakthrough technology from Omega.

1969 was the year of a giant leap for mankind. The astronauts from the history-making Apollo 11 mission had all been issued with Omega Speedmaster Professional chronographs. That same year, Omega presented its Speedmaster Mark II. Its innovative, aerodynamic case housed the hand-wound Calibre 1861 which had already proved its worth inside the famous "Moonwatch". Now in 2014, Omega has revisited the Speedmaster Mark II, equipping it with a self-winding movement and a tachymeter scale that can be read in complete darkness. A first for the Speedmaster collection.

Movement | COSC-certified, hand-wound Master Co-Axial 8511 calibre with silicon balance spring, protected against magnetic fields greater than 15,000 gauss, 60-hour power reserve

Movement | self-winding Co-Axial 3330 calibre with Si14 silicon balance spring, 52-hour power reserve

Functions | hours, minutes, seconds, date

Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds, date with corrector, chronograph with centre seconds hand, 30-minute counter, 12-hour counter, luminescent tachymeter scale

Dial | domed, opaline silvered, Clou de Paris

Dial | grey or mat black

Case | Omega Sedna gold, sapphire back, 40 mm ø, water-resistant to 30 metres

Case | tonneau, stainless steel, satin-brushed and polished, 42.40 x 46.20 mm, water-resistant to 100 metres

Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie

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Omega

CLASSIC

TECHNICAL

SEAMASTER 300 MASTER CO-AXIAL In 1957, Omega released its Seamaster 300, designed specifically for professional divers. Now it returns, with the benefit of the very latest technological developments from the brand. First the outside: the steel version is equipped with a polished black ceramic bezel incorporating a dive scale in Liquidmetal. For the gold versions, Omega has used its patented Sedna alloy of gold, copper and palladium for even greater durability, along with Ceragold technology which bonds gold to ceramic for the bezel. Inside beats the Master Co-Axial 8400 calibre which resists magnetic fields greater than 15,000 gauss.

Movement | COSC-certified, self-winding Master Co-Axial 8400 calibre with silicon balance spring, protected against magnetic fields greater than 15,000 gauss, 60-hour power reserve Functions | hours, minutes, seconds Dial | black ceramic Case | case and bracelet in titanium, Sedna gold or bi-colour, black ceramic unidirectional rotating bezel with Ceragold or Liquidmetal technology, sapphire back, 41 mm ø, water-resistant to 300 metres

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TECHNICAL

WOMEN'S

SEAMASTER AQUA TERRA 150M MASTER CO-AXIAL 34 MM Omega extends its Seamaster Aqua Terra line with, among others, two versions for women including a 34 mm model. Powered by the Master Co-Axial 8520 movement, it drives home the brand's determination to win over its female customers to the intricacies of mechanical timekeeping. This "engine" is, furthermore, immune to the negative effects of magnetic fields, the focus of Omega's latest technology. After the precision of its co-axial escapement, Omega is investing itself fully in guaranteeing its movements' reliability and stability.

Movement | self-winding Master Co-Axial 8520 calibre with silicon balance spring, protected against magnetic fields greater than 15,000 gauss, 60-hour power reserve Functions | hours, minutes, seconds, date Dial | white mother-of-pearl with 12 diamond hour markers Case | bi-colour in stainless steel and yellow gold, or 18k Omega Sedna gold, or smooth stainless steel, polished or diamond-set bezel, 34 mm ø, water-resistant to 150 metres

Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie


Panerai

CLASSICAL

LUMINOR 1950 LEFT-HANDED 3 DAYS – 47MM Panerai endlessly demonstrates the pioneering spirit of a brand that equipped the Italian Navy's first combat divers in the 1940s, evidenced by this Luminor 1950 in a left-handed version, meaning the crown and its protection are positioned at 9 o'clock. Left-handed watches such as this are part of Panerai's history, as certain marine commandos preferred to wear their watch on their right wrist and keep their left wrist free for a compass and depth gauge, hence this unusual configuration.

Movement | hand-wound mechanical P.3000 calibre, 16½ lines, 5.3 mm high, 160 parts, 21,600 vibrations/hour frequency, two barrels, 3-day power reserve Functions | hours, minutes Dial | black, sandwich structure with two plates on each side of a layer of Super-LumiNova®, protected by a Plexiglas® plate Case | AISI 316L polished steel, 47 mm ø, water-resistant to 100 metres

Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie

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Parmigiani Fleurier

DESIGN

TONDA METROPOLITAINE

TORIC RESONANCE 3

Parmigiani Fleurier introduces Metro, a new collection for 21st-century city life. The lady's watch comes in the lineage of the Tonda 1950, a slimmer design than other Parmigiani watches. The subtle asymmetry of the left and right sides of the case adds a playful touch. Small seconds circle a date window on the white mother-of-pearl dial, while rounded numerals and hour markers stand out in rounded relief.

While the minute repeater is one of the ultimate complications, here pride of place goes to the large date display, a watchmaking challenge given the imposing size of its discs. Indeed, Parmigiani Fleurier first had to develop a sophisticated mechanism to harness the energy required for them to instantaneously jump. The dial is designed to draw the eye to this giant-sized date in an aperture whose depth is accentuated by a guilloché pattern.

Movement | self-winding Manufacture PF310 calibre, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 50-hour power reserve

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TECHNICAL

Movement | hand-wound Manufacture PF359 calibre, minute repeater, 18,000 vibrations/hour frequency, 48-hour power reserve

Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds, date

Functions | hours, minutes, minute repeater, instantaneous large date with energy-accumulating mechanism

Dial | white mother-of-pearl

Dial | silvered

Case | round, steel, sapphire back, 34 mm ø, 8.65 mm high, water-resistant to 30 metres

Case | round, 18k white gold, sapphire back, 45 mm ø, 14.1 mm high, water-resistant to 10 metres

Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie


Parmigiani Fleurier

DESIGN

WOMEN'S

TONDA POMELLATO ROSE GOLD SET TURQUOISE Sealing the partnership between Parmigiani Fleurier and Pomellato, this watch takes inspiration from the Italian jeweller's Capri collection. The turquoise dial, a feat in itself, takes up residence in a rose gold case that is entirely covered in diamonds. The slender contours of the "sage" hands are in harmony with the applied hour markers in rose gold. An exceptionally feminine watch.

Movement | self-winding Manufacture PF701 calibre, 21,600 vibrations/hour frequency, 42-hour power reserve Functions | hours, minutes Dial | turquoise opaline Case | round, 18k rose gold, 112 diamonds (1.085 carats), sapphire back, 39 mm ø, 8.4 mm high, water-resistant to 30 metres

Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie

81


Patek Philippe

TECHNICAL

82

TECHNICAL

CLASSIC

ANNUAL CALENDAR CHRONOGRAPH REF. 5960/1A

NAUTILUS TRAVEL TIME CHRONOGRAPH REF. 5990/1A

When Patek Philippe introduced its Annual Calendar Chronograph in platinum in 2006, it also introduced its first self-winding chronograph. This new style instantly made its mark with its monocounter and three large calendar apertures. Further versions followed in platinum and rose gold. Now the Manufacture returns with a new interpretation, Reference 5960/1A, with the A standing for "acier" or steel. A single letter that marks a revolution at Patek Philippe, particularly as this steel model will replace all current versions in platinum and gold.

For close to forty years, the casually elegant Nautilus has enjoyed iconic status, matching firstclass functionality with durability inside an original case. The introduction of complications such as date and moon phases has only added to its success, a fact made clear by the first Nautilus Chronograph in 2006. Patek Philippe now enhances the chronograph's already vast appeal with the addition of a Travel Time function to display two time zones.

Movement | self-winding CH 28-520 IRM QA 24H calibre, 456 parts, 33 mm ø, 7.68 mm high, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 55-hour power reserve

Movement | self-winding CH 28-520 C FUS calibre, 370 parts, 28 x 31 mm, 6.95 mm high, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 55-hour power reserve

Functions | hours, minutes, chronograph with centre seconds hand, monocounter with 60-minute counter on two concentric scales and 12-hour counter, powerreserve indicator, annual calendar with day, date and month, day/night indication

Functions | hours, minutes, chronograph with centre seconds hand, 60-minute counter, second time zone, double day/night indication for local and home time, date by a hand

Dial | ebony or opaline silvered

Dial | brass base, black with light to dark gradation, embossed horizontal stripes

Case | steel, sapphire back, 40.50 mm ø, 13.55 mm high, water-resistant to 30 metres

Case | steel, sapphire back, 40.5 mm ø, 12.53 mm high, water-resistant to 120 metres

Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie


Paul Gerber

DESIGN

ARITA PORCELAIN Watchmaker Paul Gerber, who is often referred to as the master of miniaturisation, and Japanese porcelain manufacturer Arita have combined their talent to propose a limited edition of watches whose porcelain dials are crafted using ancient techniques. Delicately painted motifs of stylised flowers and creatures embellish each one. Paul Gerber rose to the challenge of creating a floating suspension to prevent these beautifully executed dials, a mere 0.60 mm thin, from breaking. All these watches are driven by his Calibre 42 with synchronised triple rotors.

Movement | Calibre 42 with synchronised triple rotors on an ETA 2824-2 base, 36 mm ø, 6.10 mm high, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 38-hour power reserve Functions | hours, minutes Dial | painted porcelain Case | 18k red or white gold, sapphire back, 39 mm ø

Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie

83


Perrelet

CLASSIC

TURBINE PILOT Taking aeronautics as its cue, Perrelet's new Turbine Pilot collection associates the Turbine concept with a circular aviation slide rule. The bidirectional inner bezel is actuated by the crown at 3 o'clock while time is set by an integrated crown at 9 o'clock.

Movement | self-winding Manufacture P-331 calibre, hollowed oscillating weight Functions | hours, minutes, seconds, bidirectional rotating inner bezel, circular slide rule Dial | black turbine (12 titanium blades), sapphire dial Case | stainless steel, sapphire back, 48 mm ø, 13.65 mm high, water-resistant to 50 metres

84

Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie


Piaget

TECHNICAL

WOMEN'S

DESIGN

ALTIPLANO 38MM 900P

LIMELIGHT BLOOMING ROSE

The thinnest mechanical watch in the world, this Altiplano celebrates the 140th anniversary of Piaget and its expertise in ultra-thin watches. A tribute to its 23 extra-thin movements, including the legendary 9P and 12P, and to twelve world records for thinness, this new model fuses movement and case, even using the back of the case as the mainplate. Shaving off vital millimetres, the entire mechanism and hands do not exceed the thickness of the balance, while the offset dial showing hours and minutes is set in the bridges.

This creation offers a new interpretation of the rose, Yves Piaget's favourite flower whose scent perfumes the history of the brand. Like a rose in first bloom, as the case turns 45° the petals are revealed, first four then eight. This invisible mechanism recalls other Piaget timepieces, such as the Limelight Magic Hour. The black lacquered dial coordinates with the satin strap that is held by a pin buckle set with 13 diamonds.

Movement | hand-wound Manufacture 900P calibre, 21,600 vibrations/hour frequency, 48-hour power reserve Functions | offset hours and minutes Dial | open Case | round, 18k rose gold, 38 mm ø, 3.65 mm high

Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie

Movement | quartz Manufacture 56P calibre Functions | hours, minutes Dial | black Case | rotating, 18k white gold, 256 diamonds (2.4 carats), 34 mm ø

85


Piaget

WOMEN'S

DESIGN

PIAGET ROSE PASSION SECRET WATCH This secret watch by Piaget is a horological gem, paved with diamonds in a snow setting. Each stone is individually cut and adjusted to conceal every millimetre of metal. The white gold petals cluster together to form a sparkling bloom with a sapphire at its centre. The satin strap fastens with a folding clasp set with 40 diamonds.

Movement | quartz Manufacture 56P calibre Functions | hours, minutes Dial | silvered Case | rose-shaped, 18k white gold, 667 diamonds (8.3 carats) and a sapphire (0.4 carat)

86

Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie


Pita Barcelona

Presentation of the model in computer graphics.

TECHNICAL

DESIGN

ROADSTER CHRONOGRAPH Aniceto JimĂŠnez Pita, a self-taught watchmaker with a number of patents to his name, took inspiration from car racing for his Roadster Chronograph. The bullhead case, minimalist dashboard dial, oversized, integrated pushers, and the use of high-tech materials generally reserved for Formula 1 cars in a case that weighs a mere 15 grams set this watch apart. Limited edition of 99 per year.

Movement | modified Valgrange chronograph calibre, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 46-hour power reserve Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds on a disc at 5 o'clock, date in an aperture at 4 o'clock, chronograph with centre seconds, 30-minute counter and 12-hour counter Dial | multi-layer construction Case | aluminium-lithium alloy, closed back or sapphire back, 44 mm ø, 13 mm high, water-resistant to 30 metres

Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie

87


Ralph Lauren

WOMEN'S

88

DESIGN

WOMEN'S

DESIGN

867 DIAMOND

STIRRUP PETITE LINK DIAMOND FULL PAVÉ

Named after the brand's New York flagship store at 867 Madison Avenue, the Ralph Lauren 867 collection offers a modern interpretation of glamorous Art Deco. This year's Ralph Lauren 867 Diamond is reinterpreted with a diamond-laden bracelet. With its distinctive arabesque-inspired architecture and an abundance of precious stones, this horological gem scintillates in an ocean of more than 400 diamonds.

Stirrup, the iconic Ralph Lauren collection, brings the equestrian world to watchmaking. The new line within the collection, Stirrup Petite Link, with cases measuring just 23.30 by 27 mm, borrows the flowing, feminine aesthetic of a bracelet with interlocking links. The Diamond Full PavĂŠ model is fully set with diamonds on its case and bracelet for a most precious Fine Jewellery vision of the measurement of time.

Movement | hand-wound Manufacture RL430 calibre, 131 parts, 21,600 vibrations/hour frequency, 40-hour power reserve

Movement | quartz

Functions | hours, minutes

Functions | hours, minutes

Dial | white lacquered

Dial | white lacquered

Case | white gold with diamonds, diamond-set bracelet and clasp, 27.50 x 27.50 mm, 5.70 mm high, water-resistant to 30 metres

Case | white gold with diamonds, diamond-set bracelet and clasp, 23.30 x 27 mm, 6.70 mm high, water-resistant to 30 metres

Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie


Richard Mille

WOMEN'S

TECHNICAL

TECHNICAL

WOMEN'S

RM 07-01 LADIES

RM 19-01 TOURBILLON NATALIE PORTMAN

Richard Mille puts women in the spotlight for 2014. One of the year's new launches, this watch is the mechanical synthesis between Haute Horlogerie elegance and the innovative materials the brand so loves. The new skeletonised in-house calibre features a mainplate and bridges in grade 5 titanium, in addition to a variable-inertia balance and a variable-geometry rotor. The patented crown construction ensures additional protection against shocks. An openworked dial with diamond-set centre adds a final flourish of exclusivity.

Actress Natalie Portman has been a partner to the Richard Mille brand since 2011. This is her first collaboration with the watchmaker, focused on the mystical image of the spider. Accordingly, a spider in rhodium-plated white gold, set with diamonds, forms an integral part of the movement as its abdomen supports the tourbillon bridges while its legs support the two barrels. Visible through the sapphire back, the calibre is assembled on a black rhodium-plated white gold mainplate, set with black sapphires. Limited edition of 20.

Movement | self-winding skeleton Manufacture CRMA2 calibre, 29.90 x 22.00 mm, 4.92 mm high, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 50-hour power reserve

Movement | hand-wound Manufacture RM19-01 calibre, black sapphires on the mainplate, tourbillon, 30.20 x 28.60 mm, 4.97 mm high, 21,600 vibrations/hour frequency, 48-hour power reserve

Functions | hours, minutes

Functions | offset hours and minutes, tourbillon, powerreserve indicator

Dial | open-worked, gem-set

Dial | open, diamond-set spider

Case | tripartite tonneau, red gold and white ceramic, sapphire back, 45.66 x 31.40 mm, 11.85 mm high, waterresistant to 50 metres

Case | tripartite tonneau, rose gold, diamonds on the bezel, caseband and crown, sapphire back, 46.40 x 38.30 mm, 12.45 mm high, water-resistant to 50 metres

Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie

89


Richard Mille

TECHNICAL

90

TECHNICAL

DESIGN

RM 35-01 RAFAEL NADAL

RM 63-01 DIZZY HANDS

Rafael Nadal again provides inspiration for a new timepiece which matches the spirit of the legendary RM 027 with a case in NTPT® carbon, a recent breakthrough by Richard Mille. This distinctive, high-tech material consists of layers of carbon filament, impregnated with resin and positioned at 45° angles. The result is an incredibly durable material. The new RMUL3 calibre offers the same exceptional shockresistance thanks to grade 5 titanium.

A new complication in watchmaking, these dizzy hands transform time into a mesmerising display. When the crown is depressed, the hour numerals on a sapphire crystal disc rotate counter-clockwise while the hour hand continues to turn clockwise, but at a different speed. Order is restored when the crown is pressed a second time. The completely new calibre is a marvel of mechanical complexity and an object of great beauty.

Movement | hand-wound Manufacture RMUL3 calibre, 30.25 x 28.45 mm, 3.15 mm high, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 55-hour power reserve

Movement | self-winding skeleton Manufacture CRMA3 calibre, 31 mm ø, 6.67 mm high, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 50-hour power reserve

Functions | hours, minutes, seconds

Functions | hours, minutes

Dial | open

Dial | open

Case | tripartite tonneau, NTPT® carbon, 49.94 x 42.00 mm, 14.05 mm high, water-resistant to 50 metres

Case | round, 18k red gold and titanium, sapphire back, 42.70 mm ø, 11.70 mm high

Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie


Roger Dubuis

CLASSIC

CLASSIC

HOMMAGE AUTOMATIC

HOMMAGE CHRONOGRAPH

2014 is the year of the Hommage collection at Roger Dubuis. Hallmarked with the Poinçon de Genève, as is the brand's entire production, these timepieces are a tribute to fine watchmaking and to Roger Dubuis himself, the "soulmaker" of the Manufacture who launched a first Hommage watch in 1995. This self-winding version lends a contemporary touch to this classic collection which takes its rightful place in the Roger Dubuis catalogue.

This chronograph from the new Hommage collection is Roger Dubuis' unique interpretation of a classically styled watch. Elegant and functional, it retains the powerful aesthetic for which the brand is renowned. Rectangular pusher, sunray guilloché dial, a concave bezel juxtaposed with the flange, sleek Roman numerals… all these elements allude to a watchmaking heritage which Roger Dubuis skilfully engineers for the future.

Movement | self-winding Manufacture calibre RD620 with micro-rotor, 13¾ lines, 4.50 mm high, 184 parts, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 52-hour power reserve, Poinçon de Genève

Movement | self-winding Manufacture RD680 calibre with micro-rotor, 13¾ lines, 6.30 mm high, 261 parts, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 52-hour power reserve, Poinçon de Genève

Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds

Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds at 9 o'clock, chronograph with centre seconds and 30-minute counter at 3 o'clock

Dial | sunray guilloché, silvered and charcoal grey background

Dial | sunray guilloché, silvered and charcoal grey background

Case | white gold, Mr Roger Dubuis' signature metallised on a sapphire crystal in the case back, 42 mm ø, water-resistant to 30 metres

Case | rose gold, Mr Roger Dubuis' signature metallised on a sapphire crystal in the case back, 42 mm ø, waterresistant to 30 metres

Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie

91


Roger Dubuis

CLASSIC

HOMMAGE DOUBLE FLYING TOURBILLON The double flying tourbillon is a signature of Roger Dubuis, already presented in the Excalibur range and in particular as a skeleton model. This year the brand introduces the double flying tourbillon to its Hommage collection. So as to emphasise its mechanical beauty, the display is deliberately simple while the hand-cut, guilloché dial accentuates the double escapement with differential. Furthermore, the hand guilloché is unique to each piece, making every watch one of a kind.

Movement | hand-wound Manufacture RD102 calibre in rose gold, hand-guilloché front and back, double flying tourbillon, 16 lines, 8.80 mm high, 452 parts, 21,600 vibrations/hour frequency, 50-hour power reserve, Poinçon de Genève Functions | hours, minutes, double flying tourbillon with differential Dial | the hand-cut, deep guilloché mainplate replaces the dial Case | rose gold, Mr Roger Dubuis' signature metallised on a sapphire crystal in the case back, 45 mm ø, waterresistant to 30 metres

92

CLASSIC

HOMMAGE FLYING TOURBILLON TRIBUTE TO MR ROGER DUBUIS This is Roger Dubuis' tribute to its founding father, Mr Roger Dubuis, maker of the very first Hommage watch in 1995. As such, it shares the same functions as a watch which Mr Dubuis launched in 2003, namely a flying tourbillon – a complication for which the brand is renowned – with a power reserve and a large date in a window. The result is a watch of great elegance, distinguished by the contrast of alternating circles on the dial. A limited edition of 208, in reference to Mr Dubuis' registration number when a pupil at the Geneva Watchmaking School.

Movement | hand-wound Manufacture calibre RD540, flying tourbillon, 15 lines, 5.70 mm high, 293 parts, 21,600 vibrations/hour frequency, 60-hour power reserve, Poinçon de Genève Functions | hours, minutes, instantaneous large date, power-reserve indicator, flying tourbillon Dial | lacquered white, powder minute circle and Roger Dubuis transfers Case | rose gold, Mr Roger Dubuis' signature engraved on the case back, 45 mm ø, water-resistant to 30 metres

Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie


Rolex

CLASSIC

CELLINI DUAL TIME The new Cellini collection celebrates Rolex's watchmaking tradition. In a single glance, the owner of this Dual Time model takes in time at home and time elsewhere in the world. The gold-rimmed subdial at 6 o'clock shows minutes and hours in a second time zone, while a sun or moon symbol transits an aperture to indicate day or night. On the main dial, large sword-shaped hands give local time, which can be independently set in successive jumps without disturbing the chronometric precision of the selfwinding movement.

Movement | COSC-certified, self-winding Manufacture calibre with Parachrom balance spring, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 48-hour power reserve Functions | hours, minutes, seconds, second time zone at 6 o'clock with day/night indication Dial | guilloché silver Case / 18k white gold, 39 mm ø, water-resistant to 50 metres

Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie

TECHNICAL

WOMEN'S

OYSTER PERPETUAL DATEJUST PEARLMASTER 34 The Oyster Perpetual Datejust Pearlmaster 34 watches are the first to be equipped with the new 2236 calibre with Syloxi silicon balance spring for improved chronometric performance. Entirely developed in-house, this movement marks the beginning of a new generation of lady's watch calibres from Rolex. Like all its Perpetual movements, the 2236 is a certified Swiss chronometer, having passed the tests of the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres (COSC).

Movement | COSC-certified, self-winding Manufacture 2236 calibre with Syloxi silicon balance spring with patented geometry, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 55-hour power reserve Functions | hours, minutes, seconds, instantaneous date, stop seconds Dial | 18k yellow gold, 455 diamonds Case | Oyster, 18k yellow gold, bezel set with 12 baguettecut pink sapphires and 24 baguette-cut light pink sapphires, water-resistant to 100 metres

93


Romain Gauthier

TECHNICAL

DESIGN

LOGICAL ONE SECRET Romain Gauthier's Logical One was a much talkedabout launch in 2013. Featuring a constant-force fusee-and-chain transmission with ruby chain links, push-button winding and sapphire inserts in the barrel, it has four patents to its name. Now the Logical One returns with a hinged cover which reveals hours and minutes, and seconds, through an opening. A cover that offers a fabulous blank canvas for the different métiers d’art such as gem-setting.

Movement | Manufacture calibre with push-button winding and fusee-and-chain constant-force mechanism, 333 parts, 35.50 mm ø, 10.50 mm high, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 3-day power reserve Functions | offset hours, minutes and small seconds Dial | fusee-and-chain mechanism and balance on the front with time indications on two offset subdials Case | 5N red gold, fully gem-set cover with opening, 43 mm ø, 14.2 mm high, water-resistant to 50 metres

94

Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie


Speake-Marin

CLASSIC

TECHNICAL

SPIRIT SEAFIRE CHRONOGRAPH

MAGISTER TOURBILLON

Peter Speake-Marin fills a chronograph-shaped gap in his collections with the new Spirit Seafire. It is named after the Supermarine Seafire, a naval version of the Spitfire and the first plane to defend the British Royal Navy fleet, as of 1942. Its titanium namesake is equally at home with casual attire and more formal wear, and stands out for its exceptionally legible dial.

Peter Speake-Marin's first ever timepiece was a pocket watch with tourbillon, a complication which has since become one of the master watchmaker's signatures. This Magister Tourbillon wristwatch incorporates a titanium case and is automatically wound by micro-rotor. Whereas a traditional Haute Horlogerie tourbillon takes two weeks to assemble, the movement of the Magister Tourbillon is designed to be assembled and regulated in just two days. A feat of technique that is set to make its mark.

Movement | self-winding C99001-D chronograph calibre, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 48-hour power reserve Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds on a disc at 9 o'clock, date, chronograph with centre seconds, minute and hour counters

Movement | self-winding SM3 calibre with micro-rotor, 30.40 mm ø, 5.40 mm high, 21,600 vibrations/hour frequency, 72-hour power reserve Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds on the tourbillon

Dial | mat black, resin base

Dial | white lacquered, multi-level

Case | Piccadilly, grade 5 titanium, 42 mm ø, 15 mm high, water-resistant to 30 metres

Case | Piccadilly, grade 5 titanium, sapphire back, 42 mm ø, water-resistant to 30 metres

Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie

95


Speake-Marin

DESIGN

VELSHEDA The Velsheda is a completely redesigned version of the Shimoda with a single hand. The rotation of the central seconds wheel provides a visual contrast with the slow sweep of the solitary, double-ended hand which points to hours and minutes on the compass-like dial. This is a minimalistic display of time, considered as much in terms of aesthetic as functionality. The back view reveals the movements of Speake-Marin's signature "mystery" rotor.

Movement | self-winding Eros calibre, 30.40 mm ø, 4.35 mm high, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 120-hour power reserve Functions | hours and minutes by a single hand, seconds on a central wheel Dial | white lacquered, multi-level Case | Piccadilly, stainless steel, sapphire back, 42 mm ø, 12 mm high, water-resistant to 30 metres

96

Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie


TAG Heuer

TECHNICAL

CLASSIC

MONACO V4 TOURBILLON

CARRERA CALIBRE 5 DAY-DATE AUTOMATIC

TAG Heuer has moved to the next level and combined drive belts that are no thicker than a human hair – a technology that took years to develop – with watchmaking's most iconic complication: the tourbillon. The result is the Monaco V4 Tourbillon, the first ever tourbillon with micro-belt transmission. It marks the tenth anniversary of the original V4, presented to the world as a concept watch with belt-drive transmission, a linear mass and ball bearings. Once again, TAG Heuer breaks with established watchmaking conventions.

The newcomer to the Carrera Calibre 5 range, this Day-Date comes in a 41 mm diameter case that captures the very essence of the Carrera. The hour markers, hands, date aperture and logo, all rose gold-plated and hand-applied, accentuate this classic touch while ensuring the dial is perfectly legible, a trademark of the Carrera and a loyal tribute to Jack Heuer's original design.

Movement | self-winding linear tourbillon calibre, 214 parts, 31.50 x 35 mm, 9.26 mm high, 28,800 vibrations/ hour frequency, 40-hour power reserve

Movement | self-winding 5 calibre, 26 mm ø, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 39-hour power reserve

Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds at 6 o'clock on the second wheel, belt-driven one-minute tourbillon Case | polished grade 5 titanium with black titanium carbide coating, sapphire back, 41 x 41 mm, water-resistant to 50 metres

Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie

Functions | hours, minutes, seconds, day and date in apertures Dial | silvered opaline Case | polished steel, sapphire back, 41 mm ø, waterresistant to 100 metres

97


Ulysse Nardin

TECHNICAL

DESIGN

DUAL TIME MANUFACTURE

CLASSICO HORSE

From the time it was launched, the Dual Time Manufacture from Ulysse Nardin made its mark. This was the first time a second time zone could be adjusted both forwards and backwards. Today it returns, driven by a self-winding movement which has been designed, developed and manufactured entirely in-house: the UN-334 calibre. In addition to a large date in two apertures, also adjustable in both directions, it benefits from a silicon escapement. Indeed, Ulysse Nardin was one of the first to master silicon technology in watchmaking.

Ulysse Nardin pays tribute to the horse's independent spirit with this Classico Horse. The Manufacture has applied the complex technique of champlevé enamel, where cavities are chiselled directly into the dial before filling them with enamel. The earth-tone palette of blacks, whites, browns, greys and greens, created from different metal oxides, magnificently brings to life the landscape and the galloping horses. The dial is fired to fuse the enamel to the metal, allowed to cool then polished by expert hands. The result is breathtaking. Limited edition of 88.

Movement | self-winding UN-334 calibre, silicon escapement and balance spring, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 48-hour power reserve Functions | local hours and minutes in the centre, second time zone (home time) over 24 hours in an aperture, oversized small seconds, large date in a double aperture

98

Movement | COSC-certified, self-winding UN-815 calibre, 42-hour power reserve Functions | hours, minutes, seconds

Dial | black

Dial | horse in champlevé enamel

Case | stainless steel, sapphire back, 42 mm ø, waterresistant to 30 metres

Case | 18k rose gold, sapphire back, 40 mm ø, waterresistant to 50 metres

Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie


Ulysse Nardin

TECHNICAL

DESIGN

IMPERIAL BLUE Boasting a sapphire mainplate and bridges to show off the full beauty of the tourbillon, this "luminous" watch contains a grande sonnerie with Westminster chimes that sounds the hours in passing on four notes, but also the hours, quarters and minutes on demand. Controlling the energy supply was undoubtedly the major difficulty when crafting this Imperial Blue. The sounding of the passing hours and of hours, quarters and minutes on demand is powered by the same barrel, which is either partially wound by activating the repeater slide at 9 o'clock on the caseband, or fully wound by turning the crown anti-clockwise. Turning the crown clockwise winds a second barrel which supplies energy to the movement with its 50-hour power reserve. Limited edition of 20.

Movement | hand-wound UN-970 calibre, 50-hour power reserve Functions | hours, minutes, date, one-minute flying tourbillon, grande sonnerie with Westminster chimes Dial | sapphire plate and bridges Case | 18k white gold, sapphire back, 46 mm ø, waterresistant to 30 metres

Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie

99


Urwerk

TECHNICAL

EMC EMC, short for Electro Mechanical Control, is the first precision mechanical watch whose chronometric performance can be monitored and adjusted by the wearer. At the touch of a button, the owner of the watch has access to information previously reserved for professional watchmakers. This data can then be used to fine-tune the mechanism in complete security. The EMC has a triple objective: to show how external factors (positional changes, temperature and pressure) influence the balancespring assembly, to enable the wearer to adjust the movement themselves, and to encourage interactivity between the timepiece and its owner.

Movement | hand-wound UR-EMC calibre, linear balance coupled to an optical sensor, 28,800 vibrations/ hour frequency, 80-hour power reserve. Artificial intelligence: Maxon generator with manual winding, optical sensor linked to the mechanical balance, 16,000,000 Hz electronic oscillator Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds, precision delta, power-reserve indicator, timing adjustment screw Case | titanium and steel, sapphire back, 43 x 51 mm, 15.8 mm high, water-resistant to 30 metres

100

Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie


Vacheron Constantin

TECHNICAL

DESIGN

MALTE TOURBILLON OPENWORKED Hallmarked Poinçon de Genève, this new timepiece presents a tourbillon within a completely skeletonised form movement. Demonstrating the full extent of their skill, the Manufacture's craftsmen have transformed the surfaces of the different parts of the movement. Depending how it is angled, contrasts of dark and light appear in the depth of the mechanism, further accentuated by the threedimensional effect of the architectural decor that stems from a new approach to hand-engraving.

TECHNICAL

DESIGN

PATRIMONY TRADITIONNELLE 14-DAY TOURBILLON OPENWORKED This watch weaves a bond between past and present, as the tourbillon complication and the art of skeletonisation, both of which originated in the early nineteenth century, take on new life inside a resolutely contemporary design, accentuated by the three-dimensional effect of the movement architecture and the Gothic-inspired decoration. An elegant slate-grey ring carries the white gold hour markers. Hallmarked Poinçon de Genève.

Movement | hand-wound skeleton Manufacture 2790 SQ calibre, 27.37 x 29.30 mm, 6.10 mm high, 246 parts, 18,000 vibrations/hour frequency, 45-hour power reserve, Poinçon de Genève

Movement | self-winding skeleton Manufacture 2260 SQ calibre, tourbillon, 29.10 mm ø, 6.80 mm high, 231 parts, 18,000 vibrations/hour frequency, 336-hour power reserve, Poinçon de Genève

Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds, power reserve, date, tourbillon

Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds, power reserve, tourbillon

Dial | skeleton

Dial | skeleton

Case | tonneau, 950 platinum, sapphire back, 38 x 48.24 mm, 12.73 mm high, water-resistant to 30 metres

Case | round, 950 platinum, sapphire back, 42 mm ø, 12.22 mm high, water-resistant to 30 metres

Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie

101


Vacheron Constantin

DESIGN

MÉTIERS D’ART MÉCANIQUES AJOURÉES Built around one of Vacheron Constantin's iconic movements, the 4400 calibre, this sculptural watch with its transparent and arched construction evokes the major European railway stations from the golden age of the industrial revolution. The skeletonised mechanism – almost half the material has been removed compared with the solid movement – is further embellished by the stunning handengraving, then accentuated by the outer ring in opaque Grand Feu enamel. The Roman hour numerals are inspired by the shape of those on nineteenth-century station clocks.

Movement | hand-wound skeleton Manufacture 4400 SQ calibre, 28.60 mm ø, 2.80 mm high, 127 parts, 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, 65-hour power reserve, Poinçon de Genève

DESIGN

MÉTIERS D’ART FABULEUX ORNEMENTS OTTOMAN ARCHITECTURE A tribute to the métiers d'art that reign within the Manufacture, and bearing the Poinçon de Genève, this watch sets its extra-thin, skeletonised and engraved movement inside a decor inspired by Middle Eastern ornamentation. The hand-bevelled, rose gold dial borrows the form of a moucharaby (lattice window), studded with pearls and delicately set against white mother-of-pearl. The milgrain decoration on the rings is unprecedented in watchmaking. Limited edition of 20.

Movement | hand-wound skeleton Manufacture 1003SQ calibre, 21.1 mm ø, 1.64 mm high, 117 parts, 18,000 vibrations/hour frequency, 31-hour power reserve, Poinçon de Genève Functions | hours, minutes

Dial | open, opaque grey Grand Feu enamel ring

Dial | open, hand-bevelled, natural white motherof-pearl under an openworked gold plate set with half-pearls

Case | round, 18k white gold, sapphire back, 40 mm ø, 7.50 mm high, water-resistant to 30 metres

Case | round, 18k rose gold, sapphire back, 37 mm ø, 8 mm high, water-resistant to 30 metres

Functions | hours, minutes

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WOMEN'S

Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie


Van Cleef & Arpels

TECHNICAL

DESIGN

DESIGN

POETIC COMPLICATION MIDNIGHT PLANETARIUM

EXTRAORDINARY DIAL MIDNIGHT NUIT BORÉALE

A wrist-borne universe: this new Poetic Complication replicates the position of six planets and their movement around the Sun in the same time as their heavenly counterparts. Earth, Mercury, Venus, Mars, Jupiter and Saturn are each represented by a hand-carved hard stone, and brought to life by an extraordinarily complex mechanism. While Mars takes 687 days to orbit the dial, Mercury does so in just 88 days. Time is shown by a shooting star which circles the edge of the dial. Day, month and year are displayed in two apertures in the back of the case.

Imagined as a picture of the heavens in miniature, this extraordinary dial offers a lesson in Greek mythology. A fearsome creature watches over the Golden Fleece; Cassiopeia makes a proud figure; Zeus takes the form of a swan to seduce Leda; the Great Bear and the Little Bear evoke Callisto, the nymph transformed by Hera, and her son Arcas. They are portrayed in grisaille enamel, a technique which creates dramatic effects of light and shadow, spotlighted with dots of yellow gold.

Movement | self-winding mechanical movement with module by Christiaan van der Klaauw, developed for Van Cleef & Arpels, totalling 396 parts Functions | hours, minutes, day, month, year, movement of six planets around the Sun reproduced in real time Dial | rose gold, aventurine, serpentine, chloromelanite, turquoise, red jasper, blue agate and sugilite Case | round, 18k rose gold, 44 mm diameter

Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie

Movement | self-winding mechanical Functions | hours, minutes Dial | grisaille enamel, yellow gold Case | round, 18k white gold, 42 mm ø, crown set with an enamel cabochon

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Van Cleef & Arpels

WOMEN'S

DESIGN

TECHNICAL

CLASSIC

EXTRAORDINARY DIAL LADY ARPELS ZODIAC LEO

PIERRE ARPELS HEURE D’ICI ET HEURE D’AILLEURS

This new timepiece is one of twelve that echo a collection of medallions depicting the signs of the zodiac, which Van Cleef & Arpels proposed in the 1950s. With Fire as its element, this Leo watch is hand-engraved then covered with translucent red enamel. Diamonds and inlay of sculpted mother-ofpearl join the gold appliques to complete the dial to perfection. The corresponding constellation is engraved on the back of the case.

The Pierre Arpels collection welcomes its first complication watch. It has the restrained elegance that distinguishes the Pierre Arpels line, but beneath lies the complexity of a dual time zone display, and an original indication of time by means of double jumping hours and retrograde minutes. The Heure d’ici – home time – appears in an aperture at the top of the dial. The Heure d’ailleurs – the second time zone – is shown in an aperture lower on the dial. They simultaneously jump thanks to a single sector that synchronises the two hour discs and the retrograde minute hand. With the same concern for crisp elegance, a single crown winds the movement, and sets both time zones and the minutes.

Movement | hand-wound mechanical

Movement | self-winding mechanical, developed by Agenhor for Van Cleef & Arpels

Functions | hours, minutes

Functions | double jumping hours, retrograde minutes

Dial | yellow gold, white gold, yellow and white diamonds, translucent enamel, mother-of-pearl

Dial | white lacquer, piqué motif

Case | round, 18k white gold set with diamonds, 38 mm ø

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Case | round, 18k white gold, 42 mm ø, crown set with diamonds

Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie


Vianney Halter

TECHNICAL

DESIGN

DEEP SPACE TOURBILLON Vianney Halter takes watchmaking to the final frontier with the Deep Space Tourbillon. Protected beneath a sapphire dome, a triple-axis tourbillon spins in the centre of the watch, circled by a classic "railroad" scale. Two hands in blued steel emerge from the edge of the watch to curve above the tourbillon which spins once in 40 seconds. It is mounted in an ultra-lightweight structure that rotates in six minutes around a second axis, perpendicular to the tourbillon carriage. The entire mechanism is mounted in a cradle that spins horizontally in 30 minutes.

Movement | hand-wound Manufacture VH 113 calibre with triple-axis tourbillon, 21,600 vibrations/hour frequency, 60-hour power reserve Functions | hours, minutes, triple-axis tourbillon Case | titanium, 46 mm ø, 19 mm high, water-resistant to 30 metres

Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie

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Zenith

CLASSIC

TECHNICAL

EL PRIMERO 410

EL PRIMERO LIGHTWEIGHT

Collectors are well-acquainted with the movement that beats inside this latest model from Zenith: the Calibre 410. Launched in 1969 as a variation on the legendary El Primero, it combines the performance of one of the most precise series-produced, selfwinding chronographs with a triple calendar and moon phases. This new interpretation of an eternal favourite matches past with present: the dial layout is true to the vintage model while the case can claim an undeniably contemporary design.

Zenith has chosen high-tech materials for this sportsstyled version of the legendary El Primero chrono with the aim of shedding weight and boosting performance. Firstly, the movement bridges are machined from lightweight but also hard-wearing titanium. The lever and escape wheel are in silicon, which has anti-magnetic properties, is three and a half times lighter than conventional alloys, harder than steel and delivers excellent performance. As for the carbon and aluminium case with titanium pushers and crown, it reveals the true nature of this ultra-sporty chrono. Limited edition of 250.

Movement | self-winding El Primero 410 calibre, 390 parts, 30 mm ø, 6.60 mm high, 36,000 vibrations/hour frequency, 50-hour power reserve Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds, full calendar with day, date and month, moon phases, 1/10th-second chronograph with centre seconds hand, 30-minute counter, 12-hour counter, tachymeter scale Dial | sunray silvered Case | steel, sapphire back, 42 mm ø, 12.75 mm high, water-resistant to 100 metres

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Movement | self-winding El Primero 400B calibre, 328 parts, 30 mm ø, 6.60 mm high, 36,000 vibrations/ hour frequency, 50-hour power reserve Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds, date, 1/10th-second chronograph with centre seconds hand, 30-minute counter, 12-hour counter Dial | skeletonised on a titanium plate, counters in three colours Case | carbon, 45 mm ø

Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie


Zenith

DESIGN

CLASSIC

TECHNICAL

PILOT TYPE 20 GRAND FEU

EL PRIMERO SYNOPSIS

The new Pilot Type 20 Grand Feu is powered by Calibre 5011K, a movement that made history in the 1960s by beating every record for precision in its category. The transparent case middle and back allow a clear view of this hand-wound mechanical movement. The 60 mm diameter offers ample scope for exceptional finishing. The sides and back of the movement, as well as the gold lugs and bezel, are hand-engraved and chased across their entire surface with scrolls and garland patterns in the spirit of traditional fine watchmaking. Limited edition of 10.

The El Primero Synopsis capitalises on a legendary movement and stays true to several Zenith style signatures. Hours, minutes and small seconds, at 9 o'clock, are precisely displayed thanks to the El Primero 4613 calibre which beats at a frequency of 36,000 vibrations/hour. The regulating organ, driven by a silicon escapement, is visible through an opening in the dial. Avant-garde silicon represents a major breakthrough in mechanical watchmaking's quest to eliminate the need for lubricant.

Movement | hand-wound El Primero 5011K calibre, 134 parts, 18,000 vibrations/hour frequency, 48-hour power reserve Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds, powerreserve indicator

Movement | self-winding El Primero 4613 calibre, silicon lever and escape wheel, 160 parts, 36,000 vibrations/ hour frequency, 50-hour power reserve Functions | hours, minutes, small seconds with trident hand

Dial | Grand Feu enamel

Dial | silvered, open on the regulating organ

Case | sapphire case middle and back, bezel, lugs and crown in hand-engraved and chased white gold, 60 mm ø

Case | steel, sapphire back, 40 mm ø, water-resistant to 100 metres

Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie

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Impressum Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie Avenue du Mail 22 | 1205 Geneva | Switzerland Tel +41 22 705 83 00 | Fax +41 22 705 84 95 hautehorlogerie.org Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie research and study centre GrĂŠgory Gardinetti, Christophe Roulet, Emmanuel Schneider, Fabio Teta Contributor | Anne-Marie Belcari Publication coordinator | Julien Pfister, DĂŠborah Godat English translation | Sandra Petch Graphic design | atelier zuppinger Printing | Graphic Services SA

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Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie



Avenue du Mail 22 | 1205 Geneva | Switzerland Tel +41 22 705 83 00 | Fax +41 22 705 84 95 hautehorlogerie.org


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