Portfolio 2012
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2-25
The FHH website gets a fresh look
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An ad campaign that thinks twice
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HH Magazine online
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HH MAG, worldwide distribution
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The Mastery of Time
8 - 13
4 Forum de la Haute Horlogerie
14 - 21
Swiss Day Against Counterfeiting 2013
22 - 23
th
Cahiers de la Haute Horlogerie
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The FHH supports the Responsible Jewellery Council
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train Initiations to mechanical watchmaking
a world view
26-29 28 - 29
30-43
The Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie and its world
32 - 33
The Cultural Council
34 - 37
Worldwide delegations
38 - 39
The FHH in New York
40 - 41
Hommage à la Passion & Hommage au Talent awards
42 - 43
introduction Fabienne LUPO Chairwoman and Managing Director, Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
The Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie takes pleasure in presenting HH MINUTES, the portfolio of its activities in 2012. It looks back at the key moments in a busy and productive year dedicated to the culture of watchmaking. Unite | Without its partner-brands, currently twenty-seven strong, the FHH would never have achieved the legitimacy it enjoys after seven years. The Foundation rests entirely on the belief that there is strength in unity. Stronger in our efforts to familiarise admirers of beautiful timepieces with the techniques and science of time measurement. United in our actions to highlight and perpetuate this unique concentration of expertise, artistry and innovation. As the circle of partners continues to grow, against the backdrop of a steadily expanding perimeter of Fine Watch brands, all the indications are that this was the right idea, and one that will continue to win support. Serve | Such a community of interest has confirmed the Foundation’s role to promote technical and precious fine watchmaking worldwide. Thus the FHH is at the service of the companies that have faith in its action and, year after year, renew the ties that bind them. The work of the FHH, documented in these pages, should be viewed in this light, whether exhibitions, information campaigns, workshops or its website. This far from exhaustive list shows how the scope for action is as vast as the “territory” of Fine Watchmaking which now stretches across five continents. Cultivate | Culture is at the heart of one of the greatest challenges that Fine Watchmaking faces today. In this electronic age when time is given in the most unlikely places, much like a fast food serves its burgers with or without ketchup, the measurement of time is clearly no longer just an enumeration of seconds, however ingenious. Yet what needs to be understood is that this genius of the mechanical mastery of time is part of human progress. While the culture of time belongs to those who one by one have forged it, the FHH believes it is also a common good that warrants an ongoing commitment. We invite you to learn more about this commitment in these pages, so that the companies that mean so much to us can be eternally a part of our lives.
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Share the culture of Fine Watchmaking Information is the sharing of knowledge and understanding. For the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie, information is more than a line in its mission statement; it is a duty to others. Explaining and helping people comprehend the measurement of time are vital components in this tradition of excellence. hautehorlogerie.org | Advertising campaign | HH Magazine online | The Mastery of Time | 4th Forum de la Haute Horlogerie | Swiss Day Against Counterfeiting 2013 | Cahiers de la Haute Horlogerie | Responsible Jewellery Council
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The FHH website gets a fresh look Make content more easily accessible, facilitate cross-referencing, introduce a clearer layout and simplify graphics… these were the main objectives for the updated FHH website, restoring an encyclopaedic function to the wealth of existing content.
At-a-glance content – Users can now source specific information by cross-referencing general criteria, such as a decade and a brand to find an iconic timepiece. Content has been divided into complementary modules that form a coherent whole on one page, based on the search. User-friendly – Layout and graphics have been revamped to focus attention on the new content structure and develop a more modern image. The number-one reference site for horology – A clearer, streamlined interface that doesn’t distract from content; complementary elements that develop a theme; optimised pages for better natural referencing; visual presentation of brands’ history… across-the-board changes make the new FHH website the one stop for information about watches and watchmaking.
Informing means sharing.
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Plate Tableware or part of a watch movement? Discover the world of Fine Watchmaking at www.hautehorlogerie.org
atelier-zuppinger.ch
atelier-zuppinger.ch
An ad campaign that thinks twice
Fusée Engin autopropulsé ou élément de mouvement horloger ? découvrez l’univers de l’horlogerie d’exception, sur www.hautehorlogerie.org
Plate | The plate which bears the various movement parts and in particular the bridges. The dial is usually affixed to the bottom side of the plate. The plate is pierced with holes for the screws and recesses for the jewels in which the pivots of the movement wheels will run.
The FoundaTion’s ParTners | A. LAnge & Söhne | audemars PigueT | BAume & mercier | BoveT | cArtier | Chanel | chopArD ChrisToPhe ClareT | corum | de BeThune | greuBeL ForSey | harry WinsTon | hermèS | huBloT | iWc | Jaeger-leCoulTre | montBLAnc Panerai | pArmigiAni | PiageT | richArD miLLe | roger duBuis | tAg heuer | vaCheron ConsTanTin | VAn cLeeF & ArpeLS | ZeniTh
The Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie is launching a new advertising campaign. Featured in the main newspapers and leading magazines, it will make the general public more aware of the subtleties and specificities of marking time. The Foundation’s fourth campaign trains the spotlight on the watch’s components, marvels of miniaturisation whose lexicon can sometimes coincide with other areas and specialisations. The campaign teaches the public that the mechanical movement inside a Fine Watch descends from a tradition and expertise that has been passed between generations, and guides them towards a deeper understanding of time measurement by encouraging them to learn more about the mechanics of time.
Fusée | Organe de forme à peu près conique muni d’une rainure hélicoïdale sur laquelle s’enroule une corde ou une chaîne reliée au barillet. La fusée régularise la force motrice transmise au rouage. Presque toutes les montres des XVI e, XVII e et XVIII e siècles ont des fusées. La corde en boyau fut remplacée par une chaîne vers 1640.
PARTENAIRES DE LA FONDATION | A. LAnge & Söhne | AuDEmARS PIguET | BAume & mercier | BOvET | cArtier | ChANEL | chopArd ChRISTOPhE CLARET | corum | DE BEThuNE | greuBeL ForSey | hARRy WINSTON | hermèS | huBLOT | iWc | JAEgER-LECOuLTRE | montBLAnc PANERAI | pArmigiAni | PIAgET | richArd miLLe | ROgER DuBuIS | tAg heuer | vAChERON CONSTANTIN | VAn cLeeF & ArpeLS | ZENITh
The campaign visuals refer readers to the FHH website which provides all the relevant technical information, in particular in its comprehensive glossary, and indeed across the site.
Informing means opening doors. 5 |
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HH Magazine online
With a new face and a new layout, the online HH Magazine is changing too. As it enters its seventh year, the magazine is still one of the first stops for anyone wanting to read and learn about watches. More instinctive, with a clearer structure and the latest functions for this type of media, the Foundation’s online magazine reports daily on all that’s new in watchmaking. The magazine publishes up-to-the-minute information from the brands, backed by original feature articles. HH Magazine covers a vast range of themes relating to time measurement. History, business and the economy, techniques, auctions, products, markets, advertising campaigns, the industry and the specific character6 |
istics of Fine Watchmaking are all given space in the form of investigations, reports, analyses and accounts. Through HH Magazine, the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie fully carries out its role to provide information as an important vector for understanding. It fuels the desire for knowledge among all those for whom a watch is so much more than the sum of its parts. It tells the story of the companies, men and women who make watchmaking an
ensemble of skills that embrace art and technology. And it kindles the dream and passion without which Fine Watchmaking would be nothing more than an empty concept. Published in French and English, HH Magazine has established itself as an essential communications resource.
Informing means making known.
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HH MAG, worldwide distribution .
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When a person chooses a Fine Watch, he or she is guided by an image, but also an emotion, an encounter, a culture, or something they have read. The FHH develops its communication resources to serve precisely this purpose. They include a print magazine. Published annually, it is a window onto a world in which the infinitely small is the stuff of very big dreams. HH MAG acknowledges the work accomplished by the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie, and offers readers a chance to reflect on the wider world. While the FHH has made online communication a priority via its website, it also has ambitions for its magazine. HH MAG is a vast source of original content whose values are those of the most selective cultural journals. In 2012, more than 200,000 copies were distributed in Europe, the United States and Asia as a supplement with the Financial Times.
Informing means sharing.
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fondAtion de. lA. hAute horloGerie -. 2012 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
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HH MAG COVER.indd 1
03/01/12 21.36
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The Mastery of Time The Mastery of Time is firstly a reference work, published by the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie. The Mastery of Time then became a travelling exhibition that documents the history of timekeeping from the sundial to the present day.
4
First shown at the Salón Internacional Alta Relojerìa (SIAR) in Mexico City, then at SalonQP in London and Belles Montres in Paris, The Mastery of Time exhibition has proved hugely successful. Inspired by the book of the same name, written by the historian Dominique Fléchon, an expert with the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie, the exhibition traces five centuries of timekeeping history. The Mastery of Time is devised as an initiation to time measurement through different eras, techniques and knowledge, accompanied by didactic texts and multimedia terminals. Métiers d’art, scientific breakthroughs, precision gestures and feats of miniaturisation… the hallmarks of Fine Watchmaking are presented in a scenography on a par with this fabulous human adventure.
The Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie views this historical perspective as an important facet in comprehending a world where art and technique work as one. Thanks to the support of its partners, both brands and museums, the FHH presents an original and significant vision of time measurement from its beginnings. Nor is the modern era overlooked. Contemporary timepieces loaned by the Foundation’s partnerbrands enable visitors to appreciate in full a heritage which has reached one of its most accomplished expressions in the timepieces of today.
Informing means helping understand.
TIMELINE | Ligne du temps
1780 – 1920
Time Measurement Mesure du temps
1801 | Abraham-Louis
Breguet is awarded a patent for the tourbillon.
Abraham-Louis Breguet dépose un brevet pour son tourbillon.
1780
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1790
1800
1822 | Nicolas-Mathieu Rieussec is
1828 | Louis-Frédéric
1830 | Development
Nicolas Mathieu Rieussec dépose un brevet pour son « chronographe à seconde ».
Louis-Frédéric Perrelet et son fils déposent un brevet pour un « compteur physique et d'astronomie » à rattrapante.
Mise au point de divers systèmes de remontoir au pendant par LeCoultre, Audemars Piguet et Adrien Philippe.
awarded a patent for a "timekeeper or counter of distance covered", referred to by its inventor as a "seconds chronograph".
1810
1820
Perrelet and his son are awarded a patent for a split-seconds "physics and astronomy counter".
in the 1830s of various pendant-winding systems by LeCoultre, Audemars Piguet and Adrien Philippe.
1830
1839 | Vacheron &
Constantin begin using Georges-Auguste Leschot's pantograph. Introduction du pantographe de Georges-Auguste Leschot chez Vacheron & Constantin.
1840
1850
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The exhibition draws on loans from partner museums and brands.
1859 | Big Ben
is brought into service. Big Ben donne l'heure pour la première fois.
1875 | Nemitz discovers
calcium sulphate as the first luminescent substance for hands and numerals. Nemitz découvre le sulfate de calcium, substance lumineuse pour les chiffres et les aiguilles.
1860
1876 | The Philadelphia
Exhibition is a showcase for the American watch industry, whose quality and strength becomes clear to Swiss watchmakers. L'horlogerie suisse prend conscience de la compétitivité américaine lors de l'Exposition de Philadelphie.
1870
1878 | Bracelet-
watches, manufactured in small quantities, are seen for the first time in Vienna. Des montres-bracelets fabriquées en petites séries apparaissent à Vienne.
1880
1880 | Genevan
watchmaker François Borgel makes the first screw-down, water-resistant case. Boîte étanche avec fermeture à pas de vis par le genevois François Borgel.
1890
1884 | The United States
and Canada adopt Universal Time. The Earth is divided into 24 identical time zones, measured from the prime meridian in Greenwich. Introduction du Temps Universel. La Terre est divisée en 24 fuseaux horaires.
1900
1892 | Minute-repeater
wristwatch by Audemars Piguet and Louis Brandt.
Montre-bracelet à répétition à minutes par Audemars Piguet et Louis Brandt.
1904 | Wristwatches
1911 | Paris accepts
Guerre des Boers : les montres-bracelets étaient indispensables à l’équipement.
Paris aligne son heure sur le méridien de Greenwich.
play an essential role in the Boer War.
1910
to use the Greenwich Meridian to define its legal time.
1920
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The Mastery of Time IN THE MEDIA | http://journal.hautehorlogerie.org
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The Mastery of Time IN THE MEDIA
SIAR express 3 October 2012
www.eluniversal.com DE ULTIMA 8 October 2012
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The Mastery of Time SalonQP | LONDON | THE SAATCHI GALLERY | 8 - 10 November 2012
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The Mastery of Time in the media
www.businessmontres.com 6 November 2012
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4 Forum de la Haute Horlogerie th
In November 2012, the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie held its fourth Forum. A think-tank for the profession, this annual gathering sets the debate rolling on timekeeping in the 21st century.
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The Forum de la Haute Horlogerie is an annual summit where people in the frontline of watchmaking can share ideas away from the everyday pressures of business. For the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie, which organises this day of high-level exchange, it is a chance to bring together the standard-bearers for time measurement. Held in partnership with the prestigious IMD business school in Lausanne and Bank Julius Bär, this fourth Forum welcomed experts from the worlds of politics, the economy and the arts to fuel debate on the theme “Time to Share”.
These gatherings serve to shed important new light on the changing socio-economics of a world that needs to be sharing experience. Luxury, now a global phenomenon, warrants that we ask ourselves the right questions.
Informing means provoking thought.
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1. Joschka Fischer, Former Vice Chancellor and Foreign Minister of Germany 2. Bruno Giussani 3. Dominique Turpin, President IMD 4. Francesca Rigotti, Philosopher and expert in social communication 5. Virginie Raisson, Geopolitical and foresight analyst 6. Peter Brabeck-Letmathe, Chairman of the Board of NestlĂŠ SA 7. Leslie T. Chang, Author and China expert 8. Philippe Daverio, Art Critic
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4th Forum de la Haute Horlogerie IMD | Maersk Mc-Kinney Møller Center | Lausanne | 14 November 2012
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1 Philippe Leuba (Vaud State Councillor), Fabienne Lupo (FHH), Joschka Fischer
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2 Philippe Léopold-Metzger (Piaget), Stanislas de Quercize
(Van Cleef & Arpels), Callum Barton (Ralph Lauren) 3 Roberto Eggs (LVMH) 4 Fabienne Lupo (FHH), Peter Brabeck-Letmathe (Nestlé), Jim Pulcrano (IMD) 5 Benoît Clivio (Banque Privée E. de Rothschild)
6 Béatrice Vuille (Piaget), Matthew Kilgariff (Richemont)
7 Eric Giroud, Sébastien Knop and
Juan Carlos Torres (Vacheron Constantin) 8 Florence Notter (Amis de l’OSR), Haig Simonian 9 Jean-Marc Pontroué (Roger Dubuis), Franco Cologni (FHH) 10 Richard Lepeu (Richemont)
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11 Cornelia Tänzler (Heads Executive Consultancy), Nicholas Clements (Ralph Lauren) 12 Olivier Schmid (Julius Bär), Olivier Chantre (Corporate Finance
Group), Corinne Hofstetter (Julius Bär) 13 Elizabeth Doerr, Stephen Forsey 14 Wilhelm Schmid (A.Lange & Söhne), Jérôme Lambert (Jaeger-LeCoultre) 15 Henri-John Belmont (Richemont) 16 Pierre Jacques (de Bethune) 17 Nicolas Marion and Jean-Christophe Babin (Tag Heuer)
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4th Forum de la Haute Horlogerie in the media | http://journal.hautehorlogerie.org
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4th Forum de la Haute Horlogerie in the media
LE TEMPS 15 November 2012
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4th Forum de la Haute Horlogerie in the media
24 heures 15 November 2012
l’Hebdo 22 November 2012
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4th Forum de la Haute Horlogerie in the media
BILAN 12 December 2012
GMT December 2012
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Swiss Day Against Counterfeiting 2013 The Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie, alongside the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry, is organising Swiss Day Against Counterfeiting, on March 22nd 2013 in Lausanne. Informing the public about the risks and dangers of counterfeiting is essential when fighting this global scourge.
TOUS ENSEMBLE CONTRE LE FAUX
2013
Counterfeiting is an epidemic with ramifications across all five continents, and a bottomless source of finance for organised crime. Hence why everything must be done to raise public awareness of the dangers inherent to fakes. If no one buys counterfeit goods, the well will run dry. Swiss Day Against Counterfeiting will provide a platform to inform about the very real implications of this illegal and criminal activity. The Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry and the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie, organisers of the event, have this year extended it to two other sectors that are both directly concerned by counterfeiting: the phar22 |
maceutical industry and the audiovisual industry. All with the wholehearted support of the Swiss press. Fine Watchmaking is, regrettably, one of counterfeiting’s prime targets. The more desirable the brand, the more it will have to contend with floods of counterfeit products, certain of which are now sufficiently well imitated to mislead even an informed buyer. The Foundation is mobilised against precisely this trend.
Informing means anticipating.
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Swiss Day Against Counterfeiting in the media
HH Magazine online 9 October 2012
Revue FH 1 November 2012
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Cahiers de la Haute Horlogerie The Foundation publishes the Cahiers de la Haute Horlogerie. The first, a compendium of luxury market surveys, was followed by a compilation of the new watches unveiled in 2012 at the two most important dates in the watchmaking calendar, the SIHH and Baselworld. The Cahiers de la Haute Horlogerie deliver information directly to professionals in the branch. Designed as an analytical overview of the subjects of greatest interest to the trade, each Cahier considers changes in the Fine Watch segment from a new angle. The first presented a series of market surveys of luxury in the widest sense, with studies carried out by financial institutions and international observers whose vision ideally complements brands’ own action on the ground.
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The second was launched in the wake of the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie and Baselworld. It sets out in detail the year’s new models from brands within the Fine Watch perimeter, in a comprehensive review of products listed according to both technical and aesthetic criteria. This was the first inventory of its kind, and an essential initiative for identifying the trends and specificities taking shape within such a diverse and prolific segment.
Informing means synthesizing.
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The FHH supports the Responsible Jewellery Council Increasingly, watch brands are committing to an ethically and socially responsible gold and diamond supply chain. These are the values upheld by the Responsible Jewellery Council which the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie has joined as a Supporter. The Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) has a mission to track down dirty gold. Mined in countries across the planet in conditions that fly in the face of environmental protection and human rights, dirty gold accounts for one-fifth of world production of this precious metal. Members of the RJC, which represent the full length of the supply chain from mine to retail and are all duly audited, agree to respect ethical and social codes of practice to ensure the traceability of gold produced using methods that respect people and the environment. Established in 2005, the Responsible Jewellery Council currently has over 400 members. The Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie, many of whose partners already belong to the RJC, has joined as a Supporter. This commitment to an ethically responsible industry corresponds in every respect to the Foundation’s own belief in the necessary integrity of watchmaking; an industry that could never contemplate being a dream for some and a nightmare for others. No matter how extraordinary, a timepiece will never provide opportunity to exploit the weak.
Building a responsible diamond, gold and platinum metals supply chain from mine to customer. The Responsible Jewellery Council is an international, not-for-profit organisation established to reinforce consumer confidence in the jewellery industry by advancing responsible business practices throughout the diamond, gold and platinum group metals jewellery supply chain.
Mission: to advance responsible ethical, social and environmental practices, which respect human rights, throughout the diamond, gold and platinum group metals jewellery supply chain, from mine to retail.
Bringing together more than 415 member companies, RJC and its Members are committed to promoting responsible ethical, human rights, social and environmental practices in a transparent and accountable manner throughout the jewellery industry from mine to retail. The RJC has developed the RJC Member Certification system which applies to all Members’ businesses that contribute to the diamond, gold and platinum metals jewellery supply chain. All Certified Members of the RJC are audited by accredited, third party auditors to verify their conformance with the RJC’s Code of Practices. A voluntary Chain-of-Custody Standard has also been developed for gold and platinum group metals. The RJC is a Full Member of the ISEAL Alliance – the global association for sustainability standards. For more information on RJC Members, Certification, and Standards please visit www.responsiblejewellery.com
Informing means making accountable. RJC Website: www.responsiblejewellery.com RJC Email: info@responsiblejewellery.com
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trai 26 |
in
Pass on the culture and expertise of Fine Watchmaking Training is vital in sustaining knowledge. The Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie affords special importance to training as a means of introducing the ordinary public to the complexities of time measurement, and to equip professional sales staff with the understanding they need in their job. Initiations to mechanical watchmaking
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Initiations to mechanical watchmaking The movement inside a mechanical watch is a feat of technique. Unlocking its mysteries means having the keys to understanding. Workshops organised by the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie give a first taste of the micromechanics of watchmaking.
Participants in these workshops face the challenge of taking apart then reassembling a simple watch movement. These initiations offer members of the public, as well as brands’ staff, a rare chance to delve into the heart of a mechanical watch while benefiting from the advice and guidance of professionals. Part by part, over a three-hour period, the movement reveals the secrets of its functioning, the details of its components, and the difficulties inherent to assembling these tiny pieces. First launched in Geneva, these workshops have travelled the globe, stopping off at watch fairs, at the Foundation’s partner-brands, and at dedicated events. Already, over a thousand people have 28 |
familiarised themselves with the infinitely small. The success of these workshops leaves no doubt as to the growing interest that surrounds mechanical watches. The Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie has made it its duty to respond.
Training means guiding towards new skills.
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Initiations to mechanical watchmaking in the media
WatchTime August 2012
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d view Take the culture of Fine Watchmaking out into the world
The Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie enjoys international renown, thanks to a worldwide network of delegations. True to its vocation to introduce the widest possible audience to the values of watchmaking, the FHH can count on these ambassadors to promote excellence in time measurement. The FHH and its World | Partner-brands | The Cultural Council | Members of the Cultural Council | Worldwide delegations | Hommage Ă la Passion and Hommage au Talent awards
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a world view
The Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie and its world The Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie brings together 27 partner-brands which have made this world view an essential part of their presence in the markets; a means of showing that technical and precious fine watchmaking is about an “art of living”, a command of expertise, and an endless desire to share this knowledge. Beyond this inner circle, Fine Watchmaking takes in some sixty firms whose foremost objective is to perpetuate the excellence of an activity now expressed in timepieces which, from China to Peru, never cease to enchant and amaze. For the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie, to look to the world is to look to the future.
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Exceptional products, technical mastery, innovation, métiers d’art… Fine Watchmaking expresses itself in timepieces that have come through the centuries as symbols of their era, the result of advances in science and technology. This history and expertise are now condensed into today’s watches. The Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie knows that this incomparable heritage should be taken out into the world, and shared with those for whom the measurement of time is something universal, yet at the same time very personal.
a world view
Partner-brands The Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie covers a perimeter of brands, some partners and others proponents of a tradition that has made the measurement of time a discipline like no other.
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a world view
The Cultural Council The 15 members of the Cultural Council of the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie are independent personalities, all known for their professionalism. The Cultural Council defines the Foundation’s scope with respect to its members, and helps deliver the values and message of technical and precious fine watchmaking around the world. Appointed ad personam, and unanimously respected for their expertise and commitment to defending the values of Fine Watchmaking, the members of the Cultural Council are representatives of the FHH founding-members or personalities in the following categories: Retailers, Journalists, Experts, Collectors
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a world view
Members of the Cultural Council Jasmine Audemars Jasmine Audemars is the great grand-daughter of Jules-Louis Audemars, co-founder of Manufacture Audemars Piguet in 1875. Having studied social science and economic history at Geneva University, she embarked on a career in journalism, rising to the position of editor-in-chief of Le Journal de Genève, then one of Switzerland’s quality French-language dailies. In 1992, she left the newspaper to take over from her father at the head of the Audemars Piguet board of directors. She is also chairwoman of the Audemars Piguet Foundation. Her main interests in addition to the watchmaking industry are international relations, economics and international trade.
Aurel Bacs International Co-Head of Watches for Christie’s, Geneva, Aurel Bacs has been passionate about mechanical watches since his teenage years, when he would follow his father to auction houses, antique stores and the homes of other collectors in search of fine mechanical watches. In those days of quartz, aficionados had little choice than to turn to vintage timepieces. Aurel Bacs’ interest in watches grew to the point that he abandoned his Law and Business studies for a position as a junior specialist at an auction house. What he thought would last only a few months turned into a lifelong passion and career.
René Beyer René Beyer is a watchmaker who has devoted his entire career to horology. He joined the Zurich-based family firm, Chronometrie Beyer, in 1986 after several work-placements abroad, including with Tiffany in San Francisco and Wempe in Hamburg. Ten years later he took over from his parents, becoming the seventh generation of his family at the head of the company. He also has charge of the internationally renowned Beyer Clock and Watch Museum. His commitment to the profession is further demonstrated by his seat on the board of directors of SUMRA, the Framework Convention for the Swiss Watch Market.
Franco Cologni Armed with a Ph. D. in Philosophy and Literature from Milan University, Franco Cologni began his career in the fields of journalism and education. From there, he went on to set up a company manufacturing and distributing luxury products and, four years later, created Cartier’s first ever foreign subsidiary, Les Must de Cartier, in Italy. This was a successful association that led him to increasingly important roles, firstly within the brand, becoming its chairman in 1986, and subsequently with the Richemont Group, which acquired Cartier in 2000. Initially director of the watch and jewellery division, he was subsequently appointed Senior Executive Director. Since 2007 he has been Non-executive Director and Advisor to Richemont’s Chairman and CEO. Franco Cologni is president of the Cultural Council.
Elizabeth Doerr Born in Michigan, Elizabeth Doerr fell under the spell of watchmaking on her very first visit to Baselworld in 1991. She was the author and editor of Wristwatch Annual for more than 10 years, and has also been a regular contributor to many other specialist publications worldwide and in the United States in particular for almost 20 years. Her articles are now read by millions of people and appear in a variety of newspapers and magazines as well as online, including on the Swiss portal Worldtempus.com. Now living in Karlsruhe, Germany, Elizabeth Doerr published 12 Faces of Time, her first book, in 2010, described as a “love letter” to independent watchmakers.
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Dominique Fléchon Dominique Fléchon joined the Richemont Group as a historian and specialist in antiquarian horology in 1994, having qualified in business studies and after gaining considerable experience in industrial sales and marketing. In 2006, he became content editor for the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie. As a lecturer, he is appreciated for his knowledge of horology. He has curated numerous exhibitions for the organisers of major watch fairs. Dominique Fléchon is highly regarded as the author of exhibition catalogues and, most of all, of several reference works, the most recent of which, The Mastery of Time, is a fund of knowledge.
Alexander Gubsky Alexander Gubsky has devoted his career to journalism. After graduating at Moscow State University, Faculty of Journalism, he joined Independent Media in 1995, the largest newspaper group in Russia with a list of fifty publications. Hired as the first reporter of Capital, a new weekly newspaper, he became Deputy Editor in 1998 and Editor a year later. At the same time, Alexander Gubsky helped devise the concept for business daily Vedomosti. The decision to issue Vedomosti was made by Independent Media, Dow Jones and Pearson shareholders in December 1998. Since 1999 Alexander Gubsky has been Deputy Editor of this must-read publication for Russian decision-makers.
Tomoko Kayama Tomoko Kayama was born in Tokyo and began her career in journalism covering NASA’s space programs. In the late 1980s, she developed a passion for watchmaking which led her to write a series of reports on watch manufacturers. Tomoko Kayama is now editor-in-chief of World Wrist Watch, a quarterly magazine published in Tokyo since 1990 by World Photo Press. This publication was one of the first in Japan to target a broad audience of enthusiasts, and looks at all aspects of the profession from its history to the latest technologies, and from new products to the métiers d’art. For Tomoko Kayama, watchmaking is much more than the sum of its parts: it is a living art.
Fabienne Lupo Graduating with a Masters in Marketing and Mathematical Modelling from Paris-Dauphine University, Fabienne Lupo began her career marketing cosmetics (L’Oréal) and perfume (Givenchy), before joining a market-research company within the Sofres Group. In 1994, she became Commissioner for the Marseille International Fair (SAFIM), following which she was appointed General Secretary of the Comité International de la Haute Horlogerie in Geneva, with responsibility for the independent organisation of the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH). Since 2005, Fabienne Lupo has been Managing Director of the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie and in November 2010 was also appointed its Chairwoman.
Thomas Mao A doctor in psychology with a specialization in organizational behaviour, Thomas Mao bought his first “serious” watches - a Vacheron Constantin then an Audemars Piguet - in 1976. This was the beginning of a lasting affair with fine watchmaking which, twenty years later, would lead to the creation of ThePuristS.com. Acknowledged as one of the world’s most important websites for serious watch connoisseurs, it made the transition to a community site in 2001. The affiliated site PuristSPro.com, launched in 2006, has nearly 500,000 unique visitors per month. Thomas Mao advises collectors all over the world on how to expand and elevate their private collections.
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Michael Mauer In a changing world, a retailer has a duty to offer their customers the finest professional service. This has been the ethos of Michael Mauer since 1986 when he took the helm of the family firm, established in Bochum (Germany) in 1897, and steered it toward technical and precious Fine Watches. With over twenty years’ experience in the world of time measurement and jewellery, Michael Mauer was appointed to a teaching chair in luxury marketing at Ruhr University in Bochum, where he helps ensure the continuity of centuries of expertise.
Ludwig Oechslin Since 2002, Ludwig Oechslin has been the curator of the International Clock and Watch Museum in La Chaux-de-Fonds. He studied ancient Greek, Latin, ancient history and archaeology at university, at the same time following a watchmaking apprenticeship with Jörg Spöring in Lucerne. He further broadened his studies with lessons in theoretical physics, before embarking on a career which took him to museums from the Vatican to Prague. Ludwig Oechslin’s creative genius has led him to invent some of the most complex mechanisms ever, including an astronomical clock. He also spent several years developing astronomical watches for Ulysse Nardin.
Laurent Picciotto A former shareholder in Richard Mille and founder of the Chronopassion store in Paris, Laurent Picciotto is an internationally acknowledged expert in timepieces. An ambassador for Van Cleef & Arpels and for the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie, he is well-versed in a profession that demands both a high level of technical understanding and human qualities. As befits a collector’s son, he showed the full measure of his extensive knowledge in his presentations at the 2009 and 2010 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève.
Fabienne Sturm After graduating from Strasbourg University, the art historian Fabienne Sturm took up a position as assistant curator at the Museum of Textile Printing in Mulhouse before joining the Geneva Museum of Art and History in 1973. She would spend most of her career at the Geneva Museum of Horology and Enamels where, for 25 years in her role as curator, she took the museum’s collections to venues all over the world. Made Chevalier des Arts et des Lettres de la République Française, Fabienne Sturm has curated numerous exhibitions including Twentieth-Century Swiss Jewellery and Mikromegas which assembled 220 pins by 220 contemporary jewellery designers. In 2003, Fabienne Sturm took early retirement but continued to work in a creative capacity, including for Vacheron Constantin, the Museum of Design and Contemporary Applied Arts in Lausanne, the Red Cross and the University of Geneva.
Michael Tay Wee Jin Since 2005, Michael Tay Wee Jin, a Management and International Affairs graduate from Oxford Brookes University in the United Kingdom, has been Executive Director of the Singapore company The Hour Glass Limited, which he first joined in 1999. Having filled various key positions with the Group, ranging from production and marketing to retail network development, communications and merchandising, Michael Tay Wee Jin has gained exceptionally broad experience in the world of watchmaking. Such invaluable experience has led him to other roles, as a member of the Harry Winston Rare Timepieces advisory committee. He also serves on the board of a Singapore humanitarian organisation.
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Worldwide delegations
North America Steven Kaiser, Ulrich Wohn, Philippe Bonay, Ronald Wolfgang
The market for Swiss watches is an international one: more than 95% of production is exported and sold outside Switzerland. This global market draws an audience of admirers and connoisseurs who are increasingly interested in the culture, history, origins and innovations of Fine Watchmaking. This is why the Foundation’s work is relayed by a dozen regional delegations. They implement information and training activities aimed at the partner-brands, important retailers, journalists and end customers. As observation posts across the world, they enrich the Foundation with their experience on the ground, and endlessly promote the values of Fine Watchmaking.
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Lat Am & Caribbean Franck Juhel, Richard Courbrant
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France Cyrille Vigneron, Thierry Castagna Benelux - Scandinavia Hans Barnhoorn Russia Dmitry Yeremeev
Japan Yutaka Nishimura
Middle East Maxime Ferte India Anita Khatri
Italy - Greece Carlo Ceppi Portugal Antonio Machado
China, Hong Kong,Taiwan Nicolas Brindjonc, Edouard Caumon
South-East Asia John Werner 39 |
a world view
The FHH in New York
“Now’s the time to really understand the history of time”
The MasTery of TiMe InvItatIon
The Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie conquered New York with The Mastery of Time.
The forty-some journalists in attendance came from watch magazines, trade journals and the most influential blogs.
More than a hundred journalists, CEOs of watch companies, and retailers gathered at Adour Alain Ducasse at the St Regis Hotel New York, on May 2nd, for the launch of The Mastery of Time.
The FHH’s local delegation, which was closely involved in the event, succeeded in bringing all New York’s leading brands and retailers together for the occasion.
In her introduction, Fabienne Lupo, Chairwoman of the FHH, presented the Foundation and its mission to transmit the culture and values of fine watchmaking worldwide. Nicholas Foulkes, the acclaimed British watch journalist, went on to talk about The Mastery of Time, an authoritative work by Dominique Fléchon, the Foundation’s historian, on the evolution of time measurement from its origins to the present day. Mr Foulkes captivated the audience with a sparkling analysis of the book and numerous anecdotes.
Journalists and CEOs alike praised this rare and much-needed opportunity, in New York, for different brands to gather and exchange their views on the culture and values of watchmaking. The Foundation is planning more events through which to pursue its different missions around the world.
Top Dominique Fléchon Bottom Nicholas Foulkes
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1 Ronald Wolfgang (FHH Delegate), Diane James (Kaiser Time), Lane Schiffman
Fabienne Lupo (FHH) Duane Thomas (Bovet) (Patek Philippe)
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2 Catherine Scharf (Swiss Embassy), François Barras (Swiss Ambassador),
3 Dominique Tadion (FHH), Mike Elms (Rolex), Susan Wicht (Rolex), Dan Mawicke (Richemont)
4 Steven Kaiser (Kaiser Time),
5 François-Henry Bennahmias (Audemars Piguet), Philippe Bonay (Jaeger-LeCoultre), Luca Bernasconi (Rolex), Larry Pettinelli
6 Rachel Branch (Hublot NA), Ulrich Wohn (Tag Heuer), Lindsay Hymson (Tag Heuer), Fred Levin (LGI Network)
7 Fabienne Lupo (FHH),
Pascal O. Ravessoud (FHH) 8 Jean-Marc Wiederrecht (Agenhor), Maria Laffont (Van Cleef & Arpels), Dominique Fléchon (FHH), Agnès le Métayer (FHH)
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a world view
Hommage à la Passion & Hommage au Talent awards “Hommage à la Passion” and “Hommage au Talent” are the two awards which the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie will be presenting each year. These twin distinctions come in recognition of the achievements of individuals whose tireless endeavours make Fine Watchmaking a world without frontiers. The “Hommage à la Passion” award goes to the trailblazers whose unfailing enthusiasm and commitment to the measurement of time have made them the standard-bearers for values that go beyond their own brand. The “Hommage au Talent” award is presented to watchmakers whose genius gives measure of the sheer scale of knowledge behind each of these mechanisms of the impossible. In November 2012, in partnership with Bank Julius Bär, these distinctions were awarded to two outstanding personalities in recognition of their work. They were Jean-Claude Biver for “Hommage à la Passion” and Giulio Papi for “Hommage au Talent”.
The winners were chosen by a panel of judges comprising members of the FHH Cultural Council, representatives of Bank Julius Bär, and Mrs Franca Zigliotto. THE JUDGES
Jasmine Audemars Aurel Bacs Olivier Baudry René Beyer Franco Cologni Elizabeth Doerr Dominique Fléchon Alexander Gubsky Tomoko Kayama Fabienne Lupo Thomas Mao Michael Mauer Ludwig Oechslin Laurent Picciotto Denis Pury Michael Tay Franca Zigliotto
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1 Franco Cologni (FHH), Jean-Claude Biver (Hublot), Franca Zigliotto, Giulio Papi (Audemars Piguet), Olivier Baudry (Julius Bär)
(Le Matin Dimanche), Chantal Prod’hom (MUDAC), Anne-Catherine Lyon (Vaud State Councillor)
2 Florence Ruffetta
3 Nicholas Clements (Ralph Lauren), Carole Hubscher
(Caran d’Ache), Dominique Turpin (IMD) 4 Jean-Claude Biver (Hublot), Sandra Biver, Aurel Bacs (Christie’s) 5 Cédric Anker (Mirabaud), Clémentine Condemine (CNN) 6 Fabienne Sturm (Cultural Council FHH) 7 Augustin Scott de Martinville (ECAL), Alexis Georgacopoulos (ECAL), Anne Biéler (Vacheron Constantin) 8 Maximilian Busser (MB&F), Fabienne Lupo (FHH), Franco Cologni (FHH)
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Alberto Cavalli (Fondazione Cologni), Alexander Gubsky (Vedomosti)
10 Nicolas Bideau (Présence Suisse), François Nordmann 11 Giulio Papi (Audemars Piguet), Jean-Claude Biver (Hublot)
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atelier-zuppinger.ch
Crown Royal headgear or watch winder? Discover the world of Fine Watchmaking at www.hautehorlogerie.org
Crown | The winding crown is a knurled or fluted button of various shapes, held between the thumb and forefinger and used to wind the watch. Some crowns incorporate a mobile pushbutton for operating a chronograph mechanism or to release the cover of a hunter case.
THE FOUNDATION’S PARTNERS | A. Lange & Söhne | Audemars Piguet | Baume & Mercier | Bovet | Cartier | Chanel | Chopard CHRISTOPHE CLARET | Corum | De BETHUNE | Greubel Forsey | Harry Winston | Hermès | Hublot | IWC | Jaeger-LeCoultre | Montblanc Panerai | Parmigiani | Piaget | Richard Mille | Roger Dubuis | TAG Heuer | Vacheron Constantin | Van Cleef & Arpels | Zenith
impressum Publication director: Dominique Tadion Editor in chief: Christophe Roulet Publication coordinator: Julien Pfister Photo credits: Nicolas Lieber, Gregory Maillot English translation: Sandra Petch Graphic design: Atelier Zuppinger, Nyon Printing: Graphic Services SA, Oron-la-Ville Š Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie, 2013
All rights reserved for all countries. Reproduction of text and photographs is strictly prohibited. Printed in Switzerland, January 2013. 45 |
22, avenue du Mail | CH-1205 Geneva Tel +41 22 307 09 90 | Fax + 41 22 307 09 95 www.hautehorlogerie.org