january 2018
Food and Drink Magazine
ultra violet Pantone’s new colour of the year
Cacti Collective
A Chocolate Masterclass
MEXICO: a culinary quest
in conversation with:
Chris leach gianpaolo ruschi hossein amirsadeghi oliver dickinson martha collison
1718
Martha Collison, Author, Columnist, GBBO
22
29
Gianpaolo Ruschi, Head Chef, Ristronte Guido
33
Chocolate Masterclass Cookery School
Front cover: Mexico: A Culinary Quest p337 Guanajuato City
Chocolate Recipes: French Patisserie
Dry January
CONTENT
4
Ultra Violet: Pantone’s Colour of the Year
8
61413
Chris Leach, Head Chef, Sager + Wilde
Mexico: A Culinary Quest with Hossein Amirsadeghi
Cacti Collective
Oliver Dickinson, Wow Food and Drinks
2018
Anna New York Cocktail Picks £95 Fortnum & Mason; Heart Breakfast Cup and Saucer £120 Nina Campbell; Curio Cardamon Vodka £30.45 The Whisky Exchange; Frederica Acrylic Pitcher £39 Amara; LSA tealight holder £15 John Lewis; Puddin’ Head Animaux Coaster £5 Amara
ULTRA VIOLET Pantone’s Colour of the Year
Waterford Mixolgy Circon Tumbler Set £115 Harrods; Violet Organic Dark Chocolate £5.50 Rococo; Fortnum’s Liquorice and Apricot tea towel £10 Fortnum & Mason; Acrosilk salad servers £22 Divertimenti
Chris Leach, Head Chef Sager + Wilde The Accidental Chef hris Leach has won some prestigious awards, from the ES London Restaurant Festival and Tatler magazine, yet had no intention of even becoming a chef. On completion of a degree course in Graphic Design he spotted a job in a kitchen, whilst looking for work and decided to apply. He had always enjoyed cooking but never thought of it as a career. Since he took that job, however, he’s never looked back, loving the anti-social hours, the pressure, the intensity, all of the things he was warned against from well-meaning friends and family. Despite the awards he feels no pressure, as he never sought out any accolades. He just does what he does. He is, like his food, straightforward, down to earth and no nonsense. He always works with what feels right and that refers both to places and people as well as the food. He joined Sager + Wilde after a stint at Kitty Fishers. It was a natural progression. He was given pretty much a blank page to work with on his menus when he joined. He doesn’t like to play too much with the food, liking to keep it’s integrity, just bringing out the best in whatever it is without changing it’s true nature. What’s your food philosophy? Aggressively seasonal.
If you were a food, what would you be? A spring onion. Go to comfort food? Pizza. Most used kitchen utensil? A spoon. Wine or cocktails? Wine. Restaurant recommendations? Ellory, just down the road, Kiln, Soho, Lyles London is one of my favourites for lunch and Smoking Goat is another favourite. Ingredient that makes everything better? Salt. Must have munchies? Bread. Always in the fridge? Mayonnaise. Always in the pantry? Olive oil. Go to cookery book? Don’t really have one, but when I started cooking, one of my favourites was Georgio Locatelli, Made in Italy series. Signature dish? Papardelle with ox cheek ragu Favourite shop? Lina in Soho. Cooking tip? Roasting something like garlic really, really slow and having that to add as an ingredient to gives dishes an extra depth of flavour.
Where did you grow up and has that influenced your Favourite place and food abroad? I’m off to California cooking? I grew in North Wales, so yes, growing up near the sea tomorrow. and farmland has had an impact. Hopefully Chris returned safely as the interview was carried out Favourite childhood dish? My mum always used to make pizza last year at the time of some serious storms. Let’s hope he’s safely back, cooking up his own storm. and it’s something I’ve always loved. Worst childhood dish? I’ve always been a good eater, I would eat everything. Can’t start the morning without? Coffee, espresso. What is breakfast on a workday? Coffee. Lunch? I’m constantly tasting, maybe some toast. Dinner? Dinner’s a bit different, I don’t cook very often at home, I like go out for dinner. How do you tell if you’re in a bad restaurant? Usually by how the menu reads and the service. Death row meal? Pasta with some really good pasta sauce.
Opposite page, Edit: Giorgio Locatelli Made in Italy book £20.97 Amazon; Set of 4 LSA wine glasses £40 Amara; Spring Onion £10.95 India Jane; Black toast dessert spoon £6 Emma Bridgewater; Garlic £0.50 Waitrose; Pasta £3.95 Linastores; Olive oil £13.95 Linastores; Halen Món salt £13.50 Ocado; Centre: Sager + Wilde bar
Chris Leach, Head Chef Sager + Wilde
Bar at Sager + Wilde, Paradise Row, E2
p189 Scorpion King - lightly fried scorpions
An interview and extracts from Mexico: A Culinary Quest
Hossein Amirsadeghi
here is nothing ordinary about Hossein. He is a man doing extraordinary things, travelling to extraordinary places and producing extraordinary books. He has been known to chase Arabian horses and track falcons around the world - on a whim. He is very well travelled and has written extensively on subjects spanning politics, history and contemporary art. For his latest book, Mexico: A Culinary Quest, he has turned his hand to Mexican food. This may seem like new territory for Hossein but there is a link between politics, art, history and food that brought Hossein to write this book, for he wouldn’t have written it otherwise. The book does not contain a single recipe. It is more of a cultural adventure, to discover the spirit and soul of Mexico through the medium of food. Hossein readily admits that he knew nothing about Mexican food before writing the book, or indeed any other food for he is no cook. As long as it tastes good, he doesn’t get into the detail. He does, however, enjoy food, especially when it not only fills the stomach but effervesces to some degree. He believes that culture is very much emblematic of cooking. Hunting and gathering and bringing the table together around the fire, were the first experiences of humans.
p91 Martha Ortiz - loin of pork
As well as the good food, there is also a tremendous amount of junk food. Mexico has the highest incidence of obesity and diabetes in the world per capita. Mexicans do not always have ready access to clean water and so colas and sodas have become second nature which are of course very sweet and addictive. Of course, all the food chains exist too. There is, however, a lot of Mexico was no stranger to Hossein as he had, a few years earlier activism, whether it’s working against maize genetic modification, written a book on Mexican art and spent some time visiting for example, big agri business, or locals making neighbourhood Mexico. However his visits, were very city-centric and was a changes, teaching traditional cooking. country he barely knew. By this time though, his interest was Mexico does not have a great reputation. The media is often peaked and his sense of curiosity aroused. A couple of meals in focused on the violence, drugs, inequality, injustice, poverty local cafés where the food was nothing like the Mexican version and crime. But for all the ‘flim flam’ about the country, there of food he was used to, inspired him to take on food. is another side to it, a side which has extraordinary depth, that despite it’s hardships, the people are hard working and supportive of it’s communities.
“I saw everything and I ate everything”
Hossein had no agenda to change attitudes when he set out, as he admits he had no idea what he was doing. Until the process starts then the book wants to be done, it was fashioned a little like how The idea was brought to fruition after a chance dinner in London you would create a tortilla. The end result is a tortilla of various with Paula Gerard and husband Carlos Salinas. They spent a year, colours and tastes that all combine in one book and if it helps with breaks, travelling the length and breadth of Mexico on a joy change Mexico’s stereotype, that’s a bonus but unintentional. ride of a journey eating their way through the country. . So he would say what he has done with this journey was that The family meal is a very important social enterprise in Mexico. it was very intense, very hard work, which he doesn’t think he Handmade dishes are laid out with great flourish offering every could replicate, it’s an experience of a life time and he’s had many flavour, colour and aroma on a well-laid table, a tradition proudly lifetime experiences, this would compare to the top 3-5. People maintained. It is a female led society with the woman at the heart were very welcoming. He developed a real taste for Margarita’s. of the kitchen, sharing, bringing that magic to the table. He was invited to a restaurant who laid on a big table, there was There is an extraordinary depth to the country, the vast majority a large group of people with him and they made 40-60 different of people are very poor, nevertheless, the country is one of the margharitas to taste. At the end of it he was landed with a top industrial powers in the world with a trillion dollar economy. humungous bill, not realising that he had to pay for it as he was a There are many contrasts, technology is at the high end, huge guest. It was worth it though, he assured me! industrial workshops on the borders, combined with extreme Even better to consume a good meal is to consume a good book. poverty. It was a very real experience for Hossein to witness these polarities and he made a film alongside it.
Favourite childhood dish? I grew up in Iran. I remember my father forcibly taking me to a shrine as a child and afterwards my reward would be a kebab. The waiter would have them on skewers just off the grill and from 5-10 feet away he would flick it off and it would land on your plate! I took on a bit of religion to get more reward!
If you were a food what would you be? I wouldn’t want to be a fish or fowl or meat. Pomegranate. They’re so lush, so sensual. Wine or cocktails?
Childhood dish you disliked?
I have to stop drinking but in Mexico I developed a taste for When I was transferred to the UK to boarding school it was a Mascala because I’m a whiskey man, similar taste. little like going to the gulag. I went from the plenty in my family Restaurant reccommendations? My cantina is Mohsen on to a boarding school in post war rationing. The biggest surprise Warwick Road. I go there whenever I want to eat Iranian. My was cabbage this and cabbage that. I went Italian is Edera on Holland Park off cabbage in a big way. I love it now. Favourite kitchen gadget? What do you think to British cuisine? In public school, I loved the puddings. I invited family to a restaurant in Newbury and had a traditional roast lunch, that is still resonant of the best of English food. When we escaped school we would get fish and chips for thruppence, which tasted like heaven, but I wouldn’t touch it now.
One I don’t have to use Best piece of advice you’ve been given? Measure yourself before you eat You’re not a cook?
No, I’m fascinated by the idea but I don’t have the patience, I have severe ADHD! If I do any entertaining, it will be cold cuts, cheeses, I’m very fond of, which I should cut down on I’m 67 Most memorable meal? been around the world a couple of times there’s nothing I haven’t I’ve been divorced many years but pre-divorce our house was done. Except maybe sobriety! always full with entertaining, my ex was a very good cook, my What question should I have asked you and what is the memorable meal is always to see enjoyment at my table, it’s not answer? just the food, I’ve eaten in too many special places. In Mexico the most memorable meal was made from a piglet in a special way, Is food sensual or sensible? For me, when looking at food I was practically eating my fingers. I ate so well in Mexico, I did experience, food has to be sensual, when I’m looking for gain a lot of weight. replenishment, it’s sensible. What is your day on a plate? Breakfast is porridge, the only thing I can make, or I can cook my What’s the future of Mexico? A little more self-reliance and own rice and a little fruit, bread, tea. independence from the US might be a good thing, there is more dislike of the North, particularly with talk of the wall, but it Lunch is outside in a restaurant and dinner is remains to be seen as it is a chaotic country. some simple fish, smoked salmon, but I can always relish a pot of Greek natural yogurt Asked why he pursues his adventures he replied he was unsure, with a couple of crackers, very satisfying. it was not for the money or the fame. It was suggested that the books were a great legacy and this he was content with, yes a Comfort food? great legacy. And with that he was off. No doubt to continue planning his next adventure, about the British Horse World, I used to love sweets and desserts but in last travelling across England and Scotland. Bon aventure! few years I’ve had to give them up alas Favourite snacks? I eat fruit during the day and dried fruit, apricots.
Sneak peak at film https://youtu.be/Hh9pf2G8GiQ
What would be your death row meal?
Organic seasonal cabbage £1.99 ocado; Greek style natural yogurt £1.70 Waitrose; Large Sicilian pomegrante £3 ocado
Seeing my jailors cooked alive and I would eat them for breakfast and escape!
p40 Juan JosĂŠ Zezatti - Gladiator sandwich challenge
Antonia Chulim Noh
Left: Hossein Amirsadeghi
Mexico: A Culinary Quest
Hossein Amirsadeghi and Ana Paula Gerard Thames and Hudson Ltd Available at Amazon and all good book stores Photography: Adam Wiseman Hossein Amirsadghedi Carlos Alvarez Montero Maryam Eisler
Opposite page, from left to right: Cactus lights £22 Amara; Paperchase ceramic cup £10 Selfridges; Cactus plate £15 Amara; Virginia Casa 2 leaf cactus plate £55 Liberty; Meri meri large napkins £5.25 Meri Meri; Tea towel calendar set £26.25 Etsy; Cacti salt and pepper shakers £24.50 Not on the High Street; Set of 6 glasses DOIY £47 Selfridges; Alice Scott mug £12 John Lewis; Desert lunch box £4.95 Dot Com Gift Shop; Sunnylife icecube trays £18 The Original Party Bag Co
Cacti collective
Oliver Dickinson, Wow Food and Drinks Refreshing the drinks industry liken Oliver, co-founder of Wow Drinks, to a Willie Wonka type, of the drinks world. The idea for a chia based drink was seeded when a friend in the Royal Marines lauded chia seeds for being good not only as a hangover cure but also as an easy way to increase energy and well-being. Oliver explained that The Aztecs used them for many purposes and they believed them to be a super food and so valuable they were used as currency. The book Born to Run, Christopher McDougall, investigates how incredible runners were able to sustain themselves over very long distances and time and they believed it was down to the chia seeds. Oliver was working on a software company at the time which didn’t work out as he had hoped so he took some downtime back at his mum’s house and binged on Netflix for a few weeks. Then, like any self-respecting entrepreneur would do, he cracked on with the next project, the chia drink.
“We just set about making the best possible product.” He readily admits to not knowing what he was doing (apart from making the drink itself) but proceeded anyway, he was so convinced that it was such a good product that his initial ignorance didn’t matter. It was, however, a very sad day when Oliver found out, by accident, that a licence was necessary to use chia seeds in food as it was automatically deemed a ‘novel’ food and you had to prove it was safe to use. A frustratingly long 17 months later, the application to the Food Standards Agency, was approved. Within months he had launched the first prototype ‘Wow Chia’ which was rubbish he says. This being Oliver, however, he improved it and moved on. It was important to Oliver that the product was made right, the best it could possibly be ie made with good quality ingredients and minimum processing. The fruit and vegetables are cold pressed to ensure keeping as much of the vitamins and minerals as possible. This was more challenging than originally thought as most factories pasteurise drinks, which having visited production facilities and understood the processing, Oliver thinks is pretty horrendous. Had he been from the industry and known the norms, he perhaps would not have pursued it. On market research he says he didn’t really do any. It would take too much time for a start and he didn’t want to end up with a product that had been chopped and changed into something that he was no longer passionate about. He didn’t even know if other people would love it too as it has a different texture, but luckily, sticking to his guns paid off. Oliver says it’s an easy sell and I think that’s because he hasn’t taken any shortcuts and
made a premium product that is good for you. Additionally, they’re not sickly sweet and they taste refreshing. Oliver had the foresight to realise he needed help in regard to distribution, marketing and PR etc and now has a very talented team behind him. The drink has gone from strength to strength and is sold in the UK, France, Germany, the Netherlands and in major supermarkets. How do you start your day? Changed since trying the vegan thing. I now have toast, nut butter and banana. I love banana like a dessert but its healthy. I try not to have cereal and stopped diary after watching documentaries on the diary industry. Toast and Marmite are my weakness. What do you have for lunch? I’m a sucker for Pret salads, again vegan thing not doing meat. I’m not very good at preparing and planning meals though so not currently vegan. I’ll have a plain ole boring salad. Dinner? I get hungry and I eat a lot. My girlfriend and I just moved apartment and our kitchen is absolutely tiny so that’s dictating what we can and can’t cook. We can’t make a big Sunday roast in there but can make a mean curry, I make a lot of curry, quick and easy. I tend to buy the ingredients on the way home. Do you entertain very much? Not really, we eat out a lot. Favourite restaurant? My favourite is Aquavit in Piccadilly, it’s lauded for it’s Scandinavian cuisine. My favourite dish is prawn toast. We had it when we were in Copenhagen. My girlfriend lived there and can speak Dutch. We were desperate to find a restaurant that did Skagen toast. Have a starter and a main and Skagen for dessert, because it’s the best, unbelievable! Toast is a running theme in my life! Bread? Sourdough
Oliver Dickinson, Founder, Wow Drinks
Edit: From left to right: Marmite yeast extract £4.59 Waitrose; Sourdough Paul Rhodes Bakery; Wow chia drinks £2.50 each Waitrose; Natoora leafy carrots £2.49 Ocado; Thug Kitchen vegan cookbook £11.98 Amazon; Avocado tool £6.99 Lakeland
Childhood dislikes? I was a very fussy eater. All I ate was marmite toast and pasta with baked beans. That was my diet. I asked my mum recently and she said I never was a fussy eater and then I went to a friend’s house and had chicken nuggets for the first time and something happened to my tastebuds and I refused to eat anything that wasn’t beige!
Three Cheers for Recycled Glass!
Favourite childhood food? Toast, Marmite on one side and strawberry jam on the other and my favourite bit was eating up through the middle when the Marmite and jam overlapped a bit. Still remember how it tastes and in my mind I know it was disgusting but still think of it as yummy. Comfort food? Never stressed, no need for comfort food Go to snack? Banana, anything else doesn’t fill me up Death row meal? A Five Guys burger
1
If you were a food what would be? Something versatile, something like a carrot, you can put in anything and sort of just gets along. Use them for snowmen too, for a bit of fun. Place to visit? South of France for the wine and the seafood Wine or cocktails? I would say wine. What have you learnt from trading with other countries? Amazed me the different pace other countries operate in. I’ve learnt that British business can do very well abroad. I think that what’s happening with Brexit is devastating. UK business was such an opportunity and so welcome in Europe really welcome with open arms in Germany, France, Austria, Scandanavia, Poland, Latvia that really surprised me. There’s a lot of international respect, a lot of innovation in the UK even more so than the US. I went out to a forum in NY looking at different drinks that were coming out and it was just fantastic cool stuff, but innovation was geared to what can we sell the most of. In the UK innovation is coming from what’s the right thing to sell? What’s in your pantry? Not a lot. I do my shopping on the way home from work. Don’t particularly like to cook but we want to learn, we’re buying cook books but its finding the time. Favourite cook book? It’s a vegan one, I like it because it’s no bull just great easy healthy food. Eat Like You Give a Fuck. What’s in your fridge? Used to be a lot of yogurt but since watching documentary What the Health, that’s gone. Now I have chocolate oat milk and obviously our Wow drinks. Question should have asked? Social media impact, we are working on Instagram, a platform we want to grow and working with influencers. Product does look nice as well. Sustainability. Supply of ingredients is often overlooked. You can get bad chia, lot of farmers stopped growing soya and started chia so it was growing on not so good soil. We ensured early on that we secured a good supply chain. It looks like Oliver has got the golden ticket, for his speed to market, being the first to launch in the EU, securing his supply chain, hiring an exceptional team and producing a first class product. Not through luck but by his vision, his hard work and perserverance. Expect to see more brilliant innovations. They’re not called Wow for nothing!
2 3 Glasses made from recycled glass: 1. Leon tumbler £6 2. Croft Collection tumbler £5 3. Tumbler £5; all John Lewis
Gianpaolo Ruschi, Head Chef, Ristorante Guido Living the Dream
Last year they were invited to join FICO Eataly World which is a grand theme park, the largest agri-food park in the world, eautiful restaurant on the beach, amazing fresh offering the best of Italian biodiversity. Situated in Bologna, produce on the doorstep, beautiful countryside, there are restaurants, shops, cooking courses, events and much Michelin star, anyone would think you were living the more. Gianpaolo was honoured and privileged to open a new dream? “Yes, I am!” fish restaurant there, the only fish restaurant in all its 100,000 sqm. Find out more about the park here. Gianpaolo was fortunate enough that his grandfather had the foresight in 1946 to open the first kiosk serving food to the first What is your food philosophy? Territory, memory and taste. tourists, on a fine sandy beach in Rimini, just a few steps from the sea. His mother and father took the reins before Gianpaolo and What was your favourite childhood food? Pitta bread. his brother, Gianluca stepped in. Gianpaolo worked besides his What childhood food did you dislike? No, no, no, no, I like mother and grandmother from an early age, learning a great deal everything. as he went along with a hunger and passion for food and cooking. How do you start your day? Coffee, black espresso. Lunch? In my work, I never take lunch. What about dinner? I never sit down to dinner, if I’m with my daughter I will sit, but not at the restaurant. I pick and taste. Where do you get your inspiration? From my grandmother and mother. I see the emotion working with food, the passion they put into their work, that’s my biggest memory. Restaurant recommendation? Piastorino, Italy, owned by chef Riccardo Agostini Go to comfort food? All food is comfort food. Most used kitchen utensil? A knife. Ristorante Guido, Rimini In 2002 they changed the design of the restaurant and went their own way, the space was renewed and a new period of growth began. Whilst the grandfather had the foresight to open the restaurant, the brothers had the foresight to think to the future, whilst keeping one foot in tradition. They worked on a new path researching and sourcing the best local ingredients to bring it to a new level. They have a big passion for the food. This paid off in 2008 when the restaurant was awarded a Michelin star.
What do you think of British food? Eh, another question! No, I like every kind of food. An ingredient to make things taste better? Olive oil, basil, tomatoes, spaghetti What’s in your fridge? Water, vegetables from last year in olive oil. What’s in your pantry? Pasta.
Martha Collison, Writer, Baker A Thoroughly Good Egg caught up with Martha on a very stormy day in Brighton, where she had recently moved. Martha first came to prominence after her appearance on the Great British Bake Off show where she was the youngest contestant. Still at school, in fact. Indeed, the application came about whilst trying to find anything to do that didn’t involve revising for Chemistry AS. She kept the application from her family fearing an admonishment for not revising and anyway didn’t think she stood a chance of getting picked. Martha was an avid fan of Bake Off from the beginning, having watched it from series one, which inspired her love of baking. There was also an opportunity at home, because whilst her mum was a good cook, baking wasn’t her thing, so any sweet treats she wanted, she had to make herself. She didn’t particularly have an ambition to be on television, she just loved baking. There was no training to be on television as such but she felt at ease in front of the camera as it was just like talking to a friend and it was soon forgotten. There was no audience and you didn’t see any footage so you didn’t even think about being on television. It also helped that the other contestants treated her as an equal and were so friendly and encouraging.
“Joy bringing food”
traficking where she had the opportunity of travelling to Cambodia to see their work with small communities. Closer to home she has teamed up with Bramber Bakehouse which helps women who have been exploited to learn different skills, including how to bake. Martha is a Christian and she says her faith helps to keep her grounded. She is happy that she can use her celebrity status in a good way to promote the things she cares about, knowing she has been blessed with this opportunity. What’s your food philosophy? Joy bringing food. What does breakfast look like? It changes but I love a piece of maltloaf and butter and a cup of tea. At the week-ends I love a proper brunch with pancakes etc. What about lunch? If I’m recipe testing, soup something light, a salad. Typical dinner? In winter, a warming stew and summer, a chicken salad. Favourite childhood dish? Angel Delight, butterscotch. Worst food? Bananas!
Do you enjoy entertaining? Real good things happen when you sit round a table and share. Having just moved, I’m still finding Of the new series she says it’s different, which is not necessarily a my feet. When we entertained as a family it was a real team effort. bad thing, but she clearly has a soft spot for Mary. She likes Prue, but she thinks her judging is a bit harsher, Mary would always have Party tip? Try and make things in advance and I love making one good thing to say no matter how awful something turned things really quickly. I’ve been working with British Gas and out. Mel and Sue made it lighter too. She’s not sure she would making quick recipes, it’s super useful if people come over last do so well in the new format as the baking is much more stylised. minute. Martha really had to grow up quickly after her stint on GBBO. Indeed, her family thought it was like she had spent 3 years at What’s in your fridge? Cheese, good butter, not much more. University, the difference in her was so marked when she had What’s in your pantry? Baking ingredients; flours, sugars, eggs, finished. She was previously living in her bubble of school, and pasta, grains, lentils, spices – I have a few more than most! family, friends, holiday etc and all of a sudden she’s attending meetings, speaking at events, doing interviews and just expected How many cakes do you eat in a week? If I’m testing a to get on with it. book, it can be 2-3 recipes a day. I try and share things out with With two cookery books under her belt, Twist: Creative Ways neighbours, friends and family. To Reinvent Your Baking and more recently, Crave: Brilliantly Favourite thing to bake? Changes daily and I’m inspired to Indulgent Recipes, she can now add author to her name. The books are about enjoying food as one of life’s pleasures. She create new things but I love a chocolate fudge cake, really sticky feels sugar has been somewhat demonised and doesn’t feel and gooey ones. that it’s wrong to eat cakes or other treats as part of a balanced Favourite cook books? My mum had Nigella’s How to be a diet. After all, there are so many celebrations that involve cake, birthdays, weddings, anniversaries and so on, it’s all part of the Domestic Goddess and I remember thumbing through that, the fun! She does feel sometimes ‘on the other side’ of the sugar and Baker Brothers and Mary Berry’s always a staple as well. I literally clean eating debate. She’s all for a healthy diet but doesn’t like the used to read it in the car on the way to Bake Off, reading the tips in case they came up in the technical. inference that some food is some how ‘dirty’. Today, apart from writing her books, Martha writes a weekly Go to comfort food? For savoury it would be a good, warmcolumn for Waitrose. She is also involved with two charities ing macaroni cheese, but now I’ve left home, my mum’s proper which are very dear to her heart: Tearfund, a Christian charity roast dinner. that works worldwide supporting anti-
MARTHA COLLISON
From left to right, Edit: Angel Delight butterscotch £0.50 Waitrose; Clarence Court mixed free range eggs £2.40 Waitrose; Crave: Brilliantly Indulgent Recipes £10.92 Amazon; Soreen fruity maltloaf £1.20 Waitrose; Kitchenaid Hand Blender £119 John Lewis; Wanderlust Apple Blossom Teacup and Saucer £50 Wedgwood; Twist: Creative Ideas to Reinvent Your Baking £6.95 Amazon
Death row meal? A giant Yorkshire pudding filled with my mum’s roast with lots of crispy potatoes and then a piece of chocolate cake for dessert, probably chocolate fondant with caramel centre. If you were a food what would you be? Well, I love eggs, very versatile, can be savoury or sweet, end up in a lot of dishes and hopefully get on with everyone.
Set of 4 dessert bowls £32 John Lewis
Wine or cocktails? Both. Favourite kitchen gadget? I love my mixer of course, but I have a hand blender which is really useful, I hate washing up and the blender doesn’t take much and it makes sauces, grinds nuts, all that sort of thing done in a few whizzes. What are you most proud of ? The books, when I see them on a book shelf or see it in someone else’s kitchen, I can’t believe it. I grew up reading cookbooks before bed and suddenly to have your own, is amazing. I have also loved working with Waitrose, particularly as I worked there on a Saturday on the cheese counter! They have taught me so much. Martha has certainly come a long way and achieved so much in such a short space of time. I have a feeling Mary would be very proud of her, as indeed we all are.
Lemon and pistachio cheesecake pots Ingredients for the base:
Ingredients for the cheesecake:
• 4 digestive biscuits
• 200g full-fat cream cheese
• 40g pistachio nuts + extra to decorate
• ½ lemon, juice and zest
• 25g butter
• 2 tbsp icing sugar • 2 tbsp lemon curd
1. Melt the butter in the microwave for around ten seconds 2. Place the digestive biscuits into a food processor with the pistachios, then blitz until the biscuits are finely ground and the nuts are roughly crushed
6. Add a layer of the cream cheese mixture and then lemon curd alternately on top of the biscuit base, finishing with a spoonful of cheesecake 7. Top with the remaining lemon zest and a few chopped pistachio nuts – and enjoy!
3. Add the butter and stir through the crushed biscuits, then divide the mixture into two small glasses, pressing it down to create an even layer Energy saving top tip: Crush the biscuits and pistachios by hand using a handy rolling pin rather than the food processor – 4. Beat the cream cheese, lemon juice and icing sugar you’ll burn some calories too! together in a small bowl until the mixture is smooth 5. Stir through half the lemon zest, saving the rest for decoration
Lemon and Pistachio Cheesecake Pots Martha Collison
Martha’s Ad Bakes, created in partnership with British Gas, are quick and tasty recipes that can be created while the adverts are on – and all using far less energy than traditional bakes. Find out more about energy efficiency in the kitchen and smart meters, visit British Gas.co.uk/smart.
MOLTEN CHOCOLAT CAKES (page 360-361) Moelleux au Chocolat Extracted from French Pâtisserie: Master Recipes and Techniques from the Ferrandi School of Culinary Arts by Ferrandi Paris (Published by Flammarion, £45). Photography © Rina Nurra 2017. Serves 6–8 Active time: 15 minutes Freezing time: 1 hour Cooking time: 7–10 minutes Storage: Serve immediately Equipment 3-in. (7-cm) cake rings or other molds Pastry bag without a tip Silicone baking mat Ingredients 3.5 oz. (100 g) semisweet chocolate, 65% cacao, chopped 7 tbsp (3.5 oz./100 g) butter, diced and softened, plus extra for greasing 1 cup (8.5 oz./240 g) lightly beaten egg (about 5 eggs) Scant ½ cup (4.75 oz./130 g) egg yolk (about 7 yolks) 4 tbsp (1.75 oz./55 g) sugar ¾ cup (2.75 oz./75 g) flour Method Grease the cake rings with butter and chill them in the refrigerator while you prepare the mixture. Melt the chocolate in a bowl over a pan of hot water. Remove from the heat and stir in the butter. In another bowl, mix the eggs, egg yolks, and sugar together with a spatula, and then stir into the melted chocolate and butter. Whisk in the flour until combined. Spoon the mixture into the pastry bag and place the cake rings on the backing mat. Snip off the point of the pastry bag and pipe the mixture into the rings. Freeze for 1 hour. Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C/ Gas mark 6). Bake from frozen for 7–10 minutes, until the tops feel firm. Allow to cool a little before unmolding while still lukewarm. CHEFS’ NOTES • The uncooked mixture freezes very well. • A small piece of chocolate can be tucked into the center of each cake before baking.
Gianduja Rosettes (page 586-7) Extracted from French Pâtisserie: Master Recipes and Techniques from the Ferrandi School of Culinary Arts by Ferrandi Paris (Published by Flammarion, £45). Photography © Rina Nurra 2017. Makes 30 Active time: 45 minutes Chilling time: 1 hour Setting time: 1 hour Storage: Up to 2 weeks in the refrigerator, in an airtight container Equipment Instant-read thermometer Pastry bag fitted with a fluted ½-in. (10-mm) tip 2 food-safe acetate sheets Pastry bag without a tip Ingredients 9 oz. (250 g) gianduja chocolate, diced 30 whole roasted hazelnuts CHOCOLATE BASE 5.25 oz. (150 g) bittersweet couverture chocolate, 58% cacao, tempered Method Melt the gianduja in a bowl set over a saucepan of barely simmering water until the temperature reaches 113°F (45°C). Remove from the heat and let the gianduja cool until it has the consistency of softened butter. Spoon into the pastry bag with the fluted tip and pipe rosettes about 1 in. (3 cm) in diameter onto one of the acetate sheets. Decorate each rosette with a whole hazelnut and chill for about 1 hour. To temper the bittersweet couverture chocolate, chop the chocolate and place in a bowl over a saucepan of barely simmering water. Stir until melted at 122°F (50°C). When the chocolate has melted, stand the bowl in a larger bowl filled with ice cubes and water. Stir to lower the temperature of the chocolate, cool to 82°F–84°F (28°C–29°C). Put the bowl back over the pan and raise the temperature to 88°F (31°C). Spoon the tempered bittersweet chocolate into the pastry bag without a tip and pipe out small rounds slightly smaller than the gianduja rosettes onto the other acetate sheet. Place a rosette on each chocolate round and press down gently so the chocolate spreads to the same size as the rosettes. Leave to set for about 1 hour and then peel off the acetate sheet.
CHOCOLATE BARK ÉCLAIRS
Caroline Chocolat Mendiant Extract from French Pâtisserie: Master Recipes and Techniques from the Ferrandi School of Culinary Arts by Ferrandi (Published by Flammarion, £45). Photography © Rina Nurra 2017. Makes 50 Active time: 1 hour Cooking time: 30–40 minutes Chilling time: 40 minutes Storage: Up to 2 days in the refrigerator Equipment 2 pastry bags fitted with plain (10-mm) and ¼-in. (6-mm) tips Instant-read thermometer Stick blender Ingredients CHOUX PASTRY ½ cup (125 ml) water ½ cup (125 ml) whole milk 1 tsp (5 g) salt 1 tsp (5 g) sugar 7 tbsp (3.5 oz./100 g) butter, diced 1 ¼ cups (5.25 oz./150 g) flour, sifted 1 cup (9 oz./250 g) egg (about 5 eggs) CHOCOLATE CRÉMEUX Scant 1 cup (200 ml) whole milk Scant 1 cup (200 ml) whipping cream, 35% butterfat Scant ⅓ cup (2.75 oz./80 g) egg yolk (about 4 ½ yolks) Scant ¼ cup (1.5 oz./40 g) sugar 5.5 oz. (160 g) bittersweet chocolate, 70% cacao, chopped DECORATION Bittersweet chocolate pouring fondant icing Halved pistachios Diced dried apricots Chopped roasted hazelnuts
(from previous page)
Method Making the Choux Pastry Heat the water, milk, salt, sugar, and butter in a saucepan and, when the butter melts, bring to a fast boil. Remove from the heat and tip in all the flour, beating vigorously until smooth. Return the pan to a high heat and stir constantly to dry out the mixture. Remove from the heat and beat in the eggs, one at a time, with a spatula. Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C/Gas mark 4). Spoon the pastry into the pastry bag with the (10-mm) tip and pipe mini éclairs, 2 in. (5 cm) long and ⅝ in. (1.5 cm) wide, onto a non-stick baking sheet. Bake for 30–40 minutes. Making the Chocolate Crémeux Bring the milk and cream to a boil in a saucepan. Meanwhile, whisk the egg yolks and sugar together until pale and thickened. Whisk in a little of the hot milk and cream, pour back into the saucepan and cook, stirring constantly, to 180°F–184°F (82°C–84°C) until the mixture coats the back of a spoon. Strain the crémeux through a fine-mesh sieve onto the chopped chocolate and blend, keeping the arm of the stick blender immersed in the crémeux so as not to incorporate any air. Chill for 30–40 minutes. Assembling the Eclairs Melt the chocolate fondant icing over low heat in a saucepan. When the temperature reaches 95°F–99°F (35°C–37°C), remove from the heat. Adjust the texture with syrup or water. Spoon the chocolate crémeux into the pastry bag with the ¼-in. (6-mm) tip and fill the éclairs with it. To do this use a pointed metal icing tip to pierce 3 holes in the base of the éclairs, one at each end and one in the center - this ensures the éclairs can be filled evenly with the pastry cream. Pipe the chocolate crémeux into the éclairs through the holes. Dip the tops of the éclairs in the chocolate fondant icing and decorate with the pistachios, apricots, and hazelnuts before it sets.
Ferrandi French Pátisserie £45 amazon.co.uk
Cookery School at Little Portland Street Chocolate Making Masterclass A welcoming cup of delicious hot chocolate was a very well received drink on the cold morning on which I had the opportunity of joininga chocolate masterclass at Little Portland Street Cookery School. In fact the scent of chocolate filled the air with the numerous melting pots of chocolate on the hob - a sight and scent to behold!
Suitably replenished and satiated from a still hot savoury muffin straight from the oven, we got down to some chocolate tasting. It was really interesting to taste the difference in various chocolate bars after taking time to swirl them around the palatte. At the same time we were given an education into how chocolate is grown and processed.
recommended are Valronha, Amedi, Original Beans to name a few. It’s best to stick with smaller craft brands if sustainability and fairness are of importance to you. At the end of the chocolate tastings, we were given a ‘popular’ mass produced brand and the difference in taste was over whelming. It was all I could do to stop myself from spitting it out! It tasted of a chemical sweetness, really not pleasant at all. Rosalind, the school’s Principal, pointed out there are some So the better brands also taste better, not surprisingly. responsible brands that ensure fair trade and sustainable growing, whilst some turn a blind eye to exploitative practices. The brands
Above: A chocolate masterclass demonstration with Jon from Melt Chocolates
Above left: The first stage of filling a chocolate mould. Any filling can then be added and covered over Above right: Some examples of what was made
We then went on to learn about tempering chocolate. Once the chocolate is melted you can start to make your own creations. The secret is getting it to the right temperature, exactly the right temperature! This entails much stirring and keeping a constant temperature check. The chocolate can be gently heated in a bain marie and cooled down by adding more chocolate discs.
flavoured and colours can be added. Some of the colourful examples we made are shown below and on the opposite page.
At the end of the day we all took home boxes full of chocolates and a little starter kit to begin making chocolates at home. We were also sent some recipes, instructions on tempering chocolate and a list of suppliers you might need. Rosalind When it is 31 degrees for dark chocolate and slightly lower recommends getting quality, sturdy chocolate moulds as the for milk and white chocolate, it is ready to use. It can be thin and flimsy types are difficult to work with. poured into chocolate moulds, make truffles or candied fruit can be dipped, such as orange slices. The chocolate can be
The next chocolate making masterclass is on 3rd May 2018 from 9-4 where you can learn to make your own Easter eggs. Check out the details: www.cookeryschool.co.uk. Or check out the other courses available, there is a fabulous selection. www.cookeryschoold.co.uk *The Cookery School at Little Portland Street use the best possible ingredients, organic where possible and ethically and sustainably sourced.*
Tea Towel Softer + Wild £15
Dry January! Do the drying up in style with this selection of terrific tea towels!
Know your onions tea towel £6.50 To Dry For
G&T Tea Towel £10 Stuart Gardiner
Twitter@food_et_al Instagram@food.et.al Facebook@foodetal Pinterest: Food et al
www.foodetal.com