Spring Issue 2017

Page 1

SPRING ISSUE 2017

FOOD AND DRINK MAGAZINE

HOW TO EAT LIKE A SPANIARD

SAN SEBASTIAN Foodie Capital of Spain

EASTER EGG PARADE COOKERY SCHOOL RAINBOW MARSHALLMALLOW

Review


4 -5 Food News 6 - 7 Drinks News

Contents

8 Restaurant and Hotel News 09 Cookery School at Little Portland Street Review

10 - 11 Bunny Shop Parade 12 - 13 Baker’s Dozen Easter Eggs

Top and Back page: Bunny banner £8 johnlewis.com Opposite: Yellow decoration £1.99 partpieces.co.uk


24-29 Eat Like a Spaniard 30 Rainbow Marshmallow

31 Picks for the Little Ones 22-23 Hello Sunshine! Easter Egg Cups

14 - 21 San Sebastian


Be mine! Blueberry, gin and marshmallow! Win, win, win!

As solid as a rock! When hollow

£6 themarshmallowist.com

chocolate eggs just won’t do, it’s time for a solid! This monster comes in a jigsaw of 42 blocks of chocolate for easy eating! £24.99 amazon.co.uk

FOOD news Favourite food finds

Take a chance! These gorgeous drippy egges come in 4 colours, one will be chosen for you at random! £9.95 cocobachocolate.com

I say! Pass them round! These deliciously decadent crisps are made with their potato skins on, are cooked in rapeseed oil in small batches and have some rather jolly flavours. They even grow their own potatoes you know! Flavours to savour! Available at Fortnum & Mason. And other posh retailers. £1.20-50 obvs!

Pans at the ready! wDid you know you can use biltong in recipes, just like this! A delicious combo of scallops biltong and courgettes. From £4 irishbiltong.ie


Get your oats! These are tasty treats which will go with virtually anything from cheese, chutneys, jams to ice cream, stews and

SAVE THE DATE! April 22 - 23 April 2017 East Anglian Game & Country Fair Fun for all the family dog and equestrian events to food halls and shopping. ukgamefair.co.uk

scrambled egg! ÂŁ1.50 thehandmadeoatcakecompany.co.uk

Pass the port! A cupboard keeper. Hand made in Devon this jelly goes well with soft cheeses or in a chicken/ turkey sandwich. otter-vale.co.uk

29 April - 1 May 2017 Exeter Food & Drink Festival

A celebration of the South West’s rich food culture, bringing together local food producers and chefs www.exeterfoodanddrinkfestival.co.uk

Rich and indulgent yet healthy! Bring on the pud! All natural and lessprocessed ingredients, without refined sugar, gluten and dairy, they taste amazing! Available at Selfridges and coming soon to other outlets. Watch out!

May

13 - 14th May 2017 St Ives Food & Drink Festival

Fun for all the family with a fantastic range of activities and entertainment. www.stivesfoodanddrinkfestival.co.uk


Drinks news Delicious drink discoveries

Wake up and smell the coffee! Check this out - a coffee ‘teabag’! What a way to get started in the morning. Just put a bag into a mug, add boiling water and you get a great tasting coffee without the fuss! £4.50 rawbean.co.uk

Going for gold! We’ve all heard about the health benefits of tumeric and here it is in convenient shot size! 15x7cl £21 Also in Waitrose, Ocado and other good retailers. jameswhite.co.uk

Edible Doilies! Yes, you heard right people! And what a delight they look too. Tea for posh people! £15 for 12 etsy.com.uk

Merlot in Margate! With sunnier climes on the way star Bordeaux producer, Jonathan Malbac OBE, will start planting in the UK this year. Even top champagne brands Tattinger and Pol Roger are getting in on the act also planting vineyards in the UK! Honest Grapes are thrilled to be in partnership with this new venture with Jonathan. Settle down, the first vintage won’t be for 5 years! honestgrapes.co.uk


DRINKS EVENTS Need a boost? Get this Citruszinger to make your own healthy creations by adding citrus fruit! £20 johnlewis.com

14-15 April 2017 Gin Festival, Torquay

Serving up 100 different gins, cocktails and master classes. ginfestival.com

Refreshingly dry! Lurvills Delight is a non-alcoholic dry blend of botanicals including nettles,

19-20 May 2017

juniper, rhubarb and yellow dock root.

The Vintage Festival, Old

A soft drink for grown-ups! £1.79

Billingsgate, London

drinksupermarket.com

Taste over 300 wines from around the world with The Sunday Times thesundaytimeswineclub.co.uk

w Tea ahoy! We fully support this ingenious creation! Earl Grey tea with British gin and, for a taste of Morroco, a green tea and rum composition! Aye, aye captain! Available at selected Fenwick stores. Look out for it coming soon in other high end retailers. From £9.95

22-27 May 2017 Cambridge Beer Festival Jesus Green, Cambridge

The longest running CAMRA beer festival and one of the largest regional festivals in the UK cambridgebeerfestival.com


restaurant news Tasty Tip-offs K West Hotel and Spa are offering a ‘cracking stay over Easter Bank Holiday week-end from £129 for 2 guests. The package includes accomodation in a luxurious Superior rooms, cooked breakfast and a surprise chocolate gift! Get cracking, it’s available between 7 April 17 April. k-west.co.uk

As this issue of our magazine has a Spanish flavour, you might be interested in an authentic Spanish restaurant in Bath which has an all-day tapas bar and an al a carte menu taking inspiration from renowned Spanish temples of gastronomy. thewifeofbath.com

Why compromise on healthy food when staying at a hotel? St James’ Hotel and Club launches ‘Wellness on the Move’ in recognition that guests want to know that their bodies and minds are being taken care of when they are away from home. The wellness package for two £595 (incl VAT) and includes an overnight stay in a Deluxe room, the wellness breakfast for two and a 90 minute Connock body treatmebtnt for one. stjameshotelandclub.com


R E V I E W Cookery School at Little Portland Street, London Tucked away in a little street just off Oxford Circus is the sustainable cookery school, a veritble hive of activity under the very noses of nearby shoppers. We were here to learn to cook a Sunday dinner, namely butternut squash soup, bread rolls, butter, roast leg of lamb with mint sauce, roast potatoes and steamed broccolli, finishing with a steamed chocolate puddding with chocolate sauce and homemade custard. Quite a lot to do in 3 hours. Yes, we even made our own butter which we were all very proud of, thinking it would take days to churn, we were amazed at how easy and quick it was to make. Easy when you know how! The class ran like clock work with our knowledgeable and friendly chef du jour, Stefan and his able assistant. After a welcome coffee and snack and a quick briefing we got right down to business with making bread. Pretty simple to mix the ingredients but it did get rather sticky. Stefan handled it expertly, providing tips and getting us to join in. While the bread mixture was proving we got started on the soup, chopping up the ingredients and then frying them and eventually liquidising them. We did a lot of tasting to get the seasoning right.

Onto the meat which was a Welsh organic leg of lamb which I was very pleased with, as I prefer not to eat factory farmed meat. We prepared it by slicing garlic cloves and cutting rosemary and cutting small holes to make pockets so that the flavours would be imparted during cooking. We used up any spare garlic and rosemary and added them to the par boiled potatoes (skin on) and then added olive oil and gave them a mix. Then we made some mint sauce which again was easy and quick to make and tasted better and was fresher than shop bought. If you have mint in the garden or kitchen, cheaper too. At the school they don’t like waste and don’t use cling film preferring to use plates to cover bowls which I think is a great idea as there is already enough plastic in the world. Then we move onto pudding, mixing and folding the ingredients until we tie a paper lid on the bowl and leave to steam for an hour. We move onto the custard being careful not to overheat the egg and sugar mixture with the hot milk. The meal all turned out perfectly and the timing was impeccable. We learnt so much with all the little tips, potentially making the difference between good and great. After eating our hard earned offerings, we left, feeling repleat and satisfied at our productivity, wjoining the throng of shoppers blissfully unaware at what we had achieved.



Opposite page: Rabbit bottle cork £34.99 rorydobner.com; White rabbit sugar bowl £27 amara.com; Rabbits and cabbage apron £24 thornbackandpeel.co.uk; Bunnies cake stand Out There Interiors £49 notonthehighstreet.com; Black and white rabbit egg cup Quail £12 trouva. com; Bunny cakestand Out There Interiors £56 notonthehighstreet.com Rabbit tray £126 libertylondon.com; Bunny mug £16.50 rorydobner.com; Rabbit with basket £134 amara.com This page: Happy Easter bunting $14 merimeri.com White rabbit vase £11.99 trouva.com


A bakers dozen and a bunny!

From Left to Right: Decorated dark chocolate egg £39.95 fortnumandmason.com; Pink wrapped egg £10 johnlewis.com; Easter bunny 80 euros pierreherme.com Divine popcorn egg £12 waitrose.com; Charbonnel et Walker egg with truffles £25 johnlewis.com


Montezuma organic button egg £9.99 waitrose.com; Easter egg gift box £25 marksandspencer.com; Godiva egg £20 godivachocolates.co.uk; Second row: Red and gold egg £7 harryschocs.co.uk; Green & Black egg collection £15 waitrose. com; Blue hand painted egg £29.99 selfridges.com; Bottom row: Moo cow egg £19.95 harveynichols.com; Avocado egg £49.50 meltchocolates.com Gin and tonic egg £25 notonthehighstreet.com


San Sebastian the Foodie Capital of Spain by Camilla Marshall Lovsey

Nestled away in the mountainous Basque country lies the city of San Sebastian. With it’s breathtaking, sandy beaches, exquisite architecture, extravagant and ornate churches, and fashionable, influential shops, you could be forgiven for forgetting to eat at all. You’d be a fool though, as San Sebastian is arguably the best place to eat on this planet.

organ and a collection of incredibly elaborate alter pieces, each one designed in regal gold and sumptuously embellished with exaggerated statues and art. The latter, located at the heart of the old town is an 18th Century Baroque church with imposing stone pillars, luxurious and opulently patterned alters and an extraordinary, rococo style, stone carved facade.

In order to work up an appetite, exploring the many wonders of the city is a must; here’s my list of unmissable spots, well worth a visit in between meals.

For the beach lover too, San Sebastian is paradise. Playa de la Concha is renowned as a sweeping, semi circular beach with golden sand, that runs alongside an elegant and stylish promenade, each end of the bay enclosed and sheltered by luscious green mountains. Step back in time and climb Monte Urgull to the East, to visit it’s 12th Century military fortress, still lined with canons and arrow slits, as well as the English Cemetery, in memory of those who volunteered to fight and sacrificed their lives for the freedom of Spain. The walk itself is through gorgeous parkland, alive with birdsong, and the view from the top far outweighs the burn in your thighs.

Many of San Sebastian’s most illustrious sights are churches, ranging from the towering Buen Pastor Cathedral to the cutting edge contemporary Catholic temple, Iesu Church, completed less than 10 years ago. Two personal favourites, however, are the unmissable architectural marvels of Igelsia de San Vicente and Iglesia de Santa Maria. The former is a 16th Century Gothic masterpiece, home to beautiful examples of stained glass, an awe inspiring


‘Carabinero’, a large red prawn from the region, served on a bed of seaweed, beetroot and rice. Find it at Kokotxa, an exceptional Michelin star restaurant with a focus on traditional, seasonal, Basque produce with a modern twist, served in an intimate venue with beautiful views.


Grilled octopus with quince jelly, made to order from Borda Berri, my favourite pintxo bar in San Sebastian.


A selection of cold pintxos including foie gras mousse, skewered prawns with pepper salsa and fresh bread topped with jamon, soft Brie, sun dried tomatoes, olive tapenade, pesto and basil leaves, all from Hidalgo 56 (top left and left). Roasted Galician octopus with potato and cabbage cake and crispy pig’s ear with a spicy carrot puree from La Cuchara de San An interpretation of ‘Tangerine, olive and thyme’ from the tasting menu at Kokotxa.

Telmo (above and below).


To the West is Monte Igueldo, the top of which is reached by funicular, and boasts not only the most outstanding views of the city and beaches but also a quirky abandoned funfair. Climb the winding stairs of the old lighthouse, now filled with invaluable old photographs of the city and it’s inhabitants, to enjoy the panoramic view from the top. If you’re the active type, Playa Zurriola next door is a surfer ’s haven; head over to catch some serious waves with a killer view back to shore. As for the city itself, San Sebastian is vivacious, dynamic and cool, yet still steeped in tradition. Streets are packed with Belle Epoque architecture and are equally as beautiful as the name suggests, with grand, opulent buildings lavished in statues, decorated pillars and meticulously designed patterning lining every road. Markets are filled with cheery locals, picking out the freshest fish, plumpest fruits and most vibrant vegetables, greeting friends and gossiping as they go about their daily errands before heading together to their favourite pintxo bars for a lunchtime snack and glass of crisp txakoli, the local wine. Eating, in San Sebastian, is the ultimate way to socialise after all.

Whilst San Sebastian may have more Michelin stars per capita than anywhere else in the world, it’s the pintxo (or tapas) bars that make the culinary experience there so magical and unique and give the city it’s well deserved gastronomic reputation. It’s borderline compulsory to attend at least four foodie destinations every lunch and dinnertime, ordering each venue’s speciality then moving on for the next. The pintxo bars are rustic and unsophisticated but homely in decoration, mostly consisting of bare brick walls, dark wooden bars and hanging chalkboards, scribbled with the day’s hot, made to order, specialities. As you stroll in, after meandering the winding streets, it feels more like you are walking into a neighbour ’s dining room than a restaurant, and that is, of course, exactly the point. Tapas culture evolved largely because friends and family wanted to get together to eat but often didn’t have enough space in their own city homes. There’s not a table or chair in sight so groups stand informally at the bar, helping themselves to pintxos and ordering endless refills of their favourite wine or cider, keeping note of consumption so as to pay fairly at the

Jamon hanging above the bar at La Cepa, a charcuterie stand at San Sebastian’s underground food market and the breathtaking interior of Iglesia de Santa Maria.


Salt cod with a cauliflower puree and crumb alongside black squid ink doughnuts, both found at A Fuego Negro (centre). A selection of cold pintxos from Sirimiri and Bar Zeruko (left and right).

Most bars are strewn with an overwhelming variety of cold pintxos all day long, brightening up the dark wooden surfaces with vibrant pops of colour and filling the air with mouthwatering smells. Jamon hangs from almost every ceiling and is served everywhere on fresh bread topped with raw pepper and tomato salsa, decadent blue cheeses or salty anchovies. For an, albeit rare, vegetarian pintxo, try succulent roasted aubergines, layered with stringy cheeses and roasted peppers then sprinkled with fresh herbs and chopped nuts, soft goat’s cheese rounds with sun dried tomatoes, jalapeño peppers and balsamic dressing or melt in the mouth cheese truffles rolled in sesame seeds. For a more traditional seaside treat, it’s bread topped with potato and octopus in paprika, luxurious smoked fish, or marinated anchovies topped with creamy crab mayonnaise, seared liver and apple compote, olive tapenade or even sea urchin roe. The offering is vast and neighbouring restaurants are in constant competition to present the most impressive pintxo display in the hope of drawing in the crowds. One thing you’re sure to find in every bar however, is gilda, a Basque speciality of pickled green chillies, olives and salted anchovies, pierced together on a cocktail stick. Don’t leave without trying one, or ten. With such a tempting and delicious selection on every bar, it can be easy to fill up before even starting on the house specialities and hot pintxos, but whether you understand what any of the dishes are or not, go ahead and order them, for this is where the

indulgence really begins. The local seafood is exceptional and specialities range from grilled octopus with quince to langoustine and bacon ravioli, from black squid ink doughnuts to razor clams with melon and almonds and from scallops with pork neck to cod cheeks with fried liver. For meat lovers, the variety and quality is unparalleled; opt for liver terrine with plum compote, garlic soup with pig’s snout or ‘solomillo’, Spanish fillet steak, often served with garlic butter and a red wine reduction. For the more adventurous, Iberian pig’s connective tissue is absolutely exquisite, served with bacon, chives and nuts. Alternatively, try a divine crispy pigs ear with a spicy sauce or flavourful blood sausage with sautéed pear, another unmissable favourite. Pair any dish with a glass of local txakoli or cider and you’re in for a treat. If you’re lucky enough to book a seat at one of the city’s many Michelin star restaurants, and I advise that you do, look forward to ‘carabinero’, huge red prawns with beetroot and seaweed, or perhaps kimchi soft shell crab, pigeon with black sesame or spadefish tartar with apple, cucumber and celery sorbet, to name just a few of the superb dishes on offer. San Sebastian epitomises indulgence like no where else, with it’s glorious, excessive food culture, charming locals, abundance of magnificent produce and picture perfect setting. If you’re a real foodie, this absolutely must be the next place on your travel list.



The mouthwatering anchovy menu at Bar Txepetxa.


Hello Sunshine!

Left to right: Bunny mug £6 johnlewis.com; Wallflower plate £17.95 emmabridgewater.co.uk; Marimekko mug £16 cloudberryliving.co.uk; Honey pot and dipper £30 lecreuset.co.uk; Stoneware olive and vinegar bottle £20 trouva.com; Water jug Digoin £29.95 libertylondon.com; Orla Kiley tray £13.50 johnlewis.com; Revol crumpled utensil jar £29 dotmaison.com


FACT: The hobby of collecting egg cups is called Pocillovy!

Bunny egg cup £3.50 johnlewis.com; Yellow feet egg cup £3 johnlewis.com Alessi egg cup £11.95 dotmaison.com; Princess chick £5 johnlewis.com; Wallflower egg cup £9.95 emmabridgewater.co.uk; Bunny egg cup The Chicken and the Egg £6.50 notonthehighstreet.com; Chick egg cup £9.95 highgroveshop.com


Life Skills

EAT LIKE A SPANIARD Spaniards have long mastered the art of eating well, drinking well, and living long. Here are eight ways you can follow their lead.



01

02

BREAK BREAD

SHOW UP LATE

A meal without bread in Spain is no meal at all. Bread is an extension of your hand— an edible implement used to convey calories from plate to mouth. Want to look like a Spaniard? Hold your fork in one hand, bread in the other, and make the food below you disappear.

Spain eats later than anywhere in Europe—starting around 2:00 p.m. for lunch and 9:30 p.m. for dinner. Touristfriendly restaurants may open earlier, but just know you’ll either be alone or surrounded by people packing passports.


03

04

SNACK LIKE A PRO

SPEAK YOUR MIND

Eating lunch and dinner so late requires strategic snacking, an art the Spaniards have mastered. Almuerzo, around 10.30 a.m., is time for a bocadillo and a beer, while Merienda, a late-afternoon snack, might mean toast with olive oil and chocolate.

Argue. About the serving sizes, the price, the direction of the country. Anything, really, but do it with fierce, half-drunken conviction. When in doubt, say that whatever classic dish— paella, gazpacho, garbanzos—you’re eating is better en casa.


Text and photographs taken from Grape Olive Pig by Matt Goulding £14.88 amazon.co.uk

05

06

MAKE IT THE MENU

STAY ON YOUR TOES

Lunch is the big meal of the day, and it gets no bigger than the M enú del día: three courses—starter, main, dessert— plus bread, wine, and coffee for under fifteen euros. Quantity is as important as quality for most Menu-eating Spaniards, but you’ll eat well nonetheless.

Tapas aren’t made to be eaten in a single sitting; they’re intended to be part of a long moveable feast. A real pro knows who makes the best coquestas, the best octopus, the best patatas bravas, then goes about building a long, boozy path connecting them all.


07

08

KEEP IT SIMPLE

TAKE YOUR TIME

Spanish food is about perfect product

Spaniards can stretch a lunch until

and impeccable technique. Spaniards

dinner and a dinner until the sky turns

don’t dig on sauces, condiments,

pink again. Sobremesa means lingering

or intense spice. They dress salads

long after the meal is done, turning the

with salt and a river of olive oil,

table into a way station, a soapbox, a

seafood with nothing but their own

psychiatrist’s couch. Order yourself

rumbling anticipation. Enjoy the

another drink and soak it up.

beauty of simplicity.


bakersoyal.com


Opposite page: Time to party! Rainbow Marshmallow bakersroyale.com This page top: Postbox Party Bunny banner £6.50 notonthehighstreet.com Left to right: Rabbit play chairs £223 for 2 smallable.com; Tea time lunch bag £10.99 belleandboo.com; Children’s Easter Bunny Egg £19.99 Meltchocolates.com Middle row: Ellie Ellie Children’s Bunny apron £13 notonthehighstreet.com; Lilac Coast bunny plate £22 notonthehighstreet. com; Godiva bunny and Easter egg £45 godivachocolates.co.uk Bottom row:Bunny dish £10 for 2 johnlewis.com; Anorak rabbit bowl £6 smallable.com; Bunny party bag $12 merimeri.com


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