Summer 2013 (Vol. 40) by Food & Dining Magazine

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SUMMER 2013 PUBLISHER / EDITOR-IN-CHIEF JOHN CARLOS WHITE BUSINESS MANAGER PAUL M. SMITH ONLINE EDITOR STEVE COOMES COLUMNISTS ROGER A. BAYLOR CARLA CARLTON JAY FOREMAN GREG GAPSIS ENTERTAINMENT EDITORS-AT-LARGE TIM & LORI LAIRD CONTRIBUTING WRITERS CARLA CARLTON DAN DRY GREG GAPSIS KATY YOCOM CHIEF PHOTOGRAPHER DAN DRY MAGAZINE DESIGN AND LAYOUT JOHN CARLOS WHITE GRAPHIC DESIGN KATHY KULWICKI STEFAN TAMBURRO COPY EDITOR KATHY KULWICKI SALES MANAGER GINA R. WOLFE ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES ANNETTE B. WHITE BART WHITEHOUSE IN FOND MEMORY OF OUR DEAR FRIEND DANIEL F. BOYLE

Food & Dining Magazine® is published quarterly by Louisville Dining Magazine, Inc. P.O. Box 665, Louisville KY 40201 The publisher and advertisers are not responsible or liable for misprints, typographical errors or misinformation. The opinions expressed herein are those of the writers and do not necessarily reflect the opinion of the publisher. +Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited. All rights reserved.

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Annual Subscription rate $18. Submit subscription requests to: Food & Dining Magazine® P.O. Box 665, Louisville KY 40201 or call (502) 509-EATS (3287) or subscribe online at

www.foodanddine.com facebook.com/foodanddine follow us on Twitter @FDzine For Advertising information call (502) 509-EATS (3287) ON THE COVER: MilkWood’s fried chicken and waffle with radish, dill and buttermilk dressing. (see story page 26) Photo by Dan Dry 4

Summer 2013 www.foodanddine.com

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contents

SUMMER 2013 - VOLUME 40

RESTAURANT GUIDE

DINING GUIDE

Our comprehensive listing of over 1,000 area restaurants complete with reviews.

MAPS (RESTAURANT LOCATOR)

Find all of the restaurants in our Dining Guide on these user-friendly maps.

FEATURES

10 YEARS OF IMAGES A retrospective of F&D’s Chief Photographer Dan Dry’s images that made you hungry over the past ten years.

CHEF Q & A Chef Coby Ming of Harvest answers a few questions you’ve always wanted to ask.

PROFILES URBAN BOURBON TRAIL: Village Anchor

Located in Anchorage, the Village Anchor and its lower-level bar, the Sea Hag, is the easternmost stop on the Urban Bourbon Trail.

PICK THREE Relish, Game and MilkWood — a trio of new entries into the local dining scene by established, high-profile restaurateurs.

BISTRO 1860 Old friends partner to create a new fine dining experience.

COLUMNS STARTERS

COMINGS & GOINGS

A summary of changes on the local restaurant scene, with openings, closings, moves and more.

HUMOR A look back at food trends of the last ten years.

FOOD FROM THE EARTH: Farmers’ market guide

Our comprehensive list of over 40 local farmers’ markets plus a seasonal grow chart.

EASY ENTERTAINING: Kebab Party

We’ve assembled a four-course dinner using a variety of kebabs that can be grilled quickly throughout the meal.

LIQUIDS HIP HOPS: Against The Grain

When brewers collaborate with chefs, there is fermentable cohesion.

IN SEARCH OF: The perfect Old Fashioned

Dan Dry hunts for the perfect Old Fashioned and photographs the search with just a smart phone. www.facebook.com/foodanddine Summer 2013

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starters comings & goings

comings&goings In the last three months, 29 new restaurants have opened in Kentuckiana, and four other established restaurants have opened new locations. In that time, nine restaurants ceased operations, making a 33-9 positive ratio and increasing the overall number of restaurants by two dozen. Those numbers seem to indicate an industry that continues in robust health. Here are the details. NEW TABLES At the corner of Third and Main, the Galt House organization has opened three — count ’em! three! — new restaurants, all sharing the same address, 321 W. Main St. 321 Deli will dispense sandwiches, soups and salads, and provide the provender for Down One Bourbon Bar. For those who need ice cream after bagels and beer, 2 Dips & a Shake will sate that craving with Comfy Cow ice cream. Situated as it is within a block of KFC Yum! Center, that trio of choices should satisfy the refreshment needs of concert-goers and sports fans, as well as everyday diners. Susan Hershberg is extending her Wiltshire mini-empire by adding Wiltshire Pantry Bakery and Café at 901 Barret Ave. The café menu will include breakfast pastries and light breakfast and lunch fare, emphasizing quick order take-out and limited in-house seating. Diana Rushing will handle the baking, creating fine artisanal breads, something all communities need more of, as any Frenchman can tell you. And the guys at Hammerheads, Adam Burress and Chase Mucerino, have opened Game, at 2295 Lexington Rd., grilling up all manner of burgers made of bison, elk, ostrich and wild boar, served on a choice of Kaiser, brioche, focaccia and pretzel buns. Two new sports bars have opened on opposite sides of the county. Khalil’s, 10966 Dixie Hwy., emphasizes its family friendliness. O-Line Sports Grill at 2813 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., promises guests can watch any sporting event anywhere all year long on its multiple TVs. A pair of new barbecue spots are on the roster. Hickory House BBQ and Catering is at 2307 S. Preston St., and Rob-a-Que is an effort by amateur BBQ competitor Rob Bailey to turn his hobby into a business. You can check out his ’que at 4712 Pinewood Rd. Downtown and the Highlands are getting new bistros. Sidebar at Whiskey Row, 129 N. Second St., is located steps north of Main St. and above the Troll Pub by the Bridge. Its focus on Bourbon, beer and burgers is bound to please many going to or from the nearby KFC Yum! Center. Derby City Roadhouse, 1250 Bardstown Rd., is taking over the former City Café space at Mid-City Mall, and as the name implies expect steak, but with a first rate wine list. Two new pizza joints have opened, one in Old Louisville and one in Jeffersontown. At 1396 S. Second St., Pizza Donisi offers sustenance to hungry hipsters needing food after a night at neighboring Mag Bar. Loui Loui’s Authentic Detroit-Style Pizza 6

Summer 2013 www.foodanddine.com

has moved into the old Ferd Grisanti building at 10212 Taylorsville Rd. Detroiters, apparently, like a thicker, pan-style pizza that’s lighter on the cheese, sauce and toppings than Chicago style. Café at Main Street has moved from Bullitt County to 10317 Watterson Trail, hoping its exurban fan base will follow and lead new fans to its home cooking and rich desserts. Across the river in Jeffersonville, two cafés have opened in the bustling Quadrangle Center. Quad Café is at 103 Quarter master Ct., and Iries Caribbean Café is at 255 Quartermaster Ct. The former offers modern bistro fare, and the other Caribbean, African and American lunch style food. The Kaelin’s name has returned to the dining scene with the opening of Kaelin’s Coffeehouse. Serving full breakfasts, pastries and coffee drinks (including Irish coffee), it’s at its old spot, 1801 Newburg Rd., but connected to Mulligan’s Pub. Westport Village boasts a new high-concept restaurant, the Chocolate Martini Bar, 1106 Lyndon Ln., where you can order martinis, or hot chocolate, or chocolate martinis, salads, nachos, sandwiches, milkshakes and lots of other stuff. At Terri Ann’s, 2605 Rockford Ln., the concept is less ambitiously eclectic, just home cooking comfort food. Eleven new ethnic restaurants are opening, broadening the one area in which Louisville lags behind other food-focused cities. The original Havana Rumba in St. Matthews is opening Havana Rumba Express at 2216 Bardstown Rd. There Rumba fans will find familiar favorites as well as tapas and other smaller dishes at a lower price point for takeout. Señor Taco at 4806 Bardstown Rd. and Café Aroma, 2020 Brownsboro Rd., are two new Mexican restaurants. And, stretching the concept of Mexican restaurants a bit, Chipotle Mexican Grill has opened its first Louisville outlet downtown in the Hyatt Regency complex at 315 S. Fourth St. A second will open in midsummer at 10301 Westport Rd. Three new Asian restaurants have opened. Happy Dragon, at 12613 Taylorsville Rd. ser ves Chinese food. Sora Sushi and Japanese Cuisine will cater to suburbanites at 2610 Chamberlain Ln., and Mt. Fuji has added Japanese to the choices at U of L’s restaurant row at 309 Cardinal Blvd. African cuisine adds to the ethnic mix in the South End with the opening of Kalisimbi Bar & Grill at 5600 S. Third St. And two new Middle Eastern restaurants have opened: Little Jerusalem at 5312

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www.facebook.com/foodanddine Summer 2013

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S. Third St. and Tut’s Mediterranean at 3425 Bardstown Rd. Four new locations of existing restaurants extend the reach of some favorites. Middletown fans of Qdoba’s Mexican-style grilled fast casual food can now enjoy it locally at the 14th area location at 13006 Shelbyville Rd. Dragon King’s Daughter has expanded to a second location on the sunny side, at 202 E. Elm St., New Albany, Ind. DiOrio’s Pizza Pub added a new outlet at 917 Baxter Ave., while Tom + Chee has staked out a second foothold in town, this one at 319 W. Cardinal Blvd.

CLOSINGS The short list of restaurant closings contains a long-time favorite or two, a brash newcomer and several smaller places that didn’t quite catch on. John E’s, at 3708 Bardstown Rd., a longtime Buechel standard, an icon of mid-20th century upscale comfort food, closed after founder John Shanchuck got ill, and his successors found it hard to maintain the style John E’s fans enjoyed. And an ambitious effor t by Tony Palombino, AP Crafters, 1321 Herr Ln. in Westpor t Village, which had gained an enthusiastic fan base, has closed. Palombino had sold out his interest to out-of-state partners, and the new owners ran into problems they couldn’t control. And another long-time fan favorite, Soupy’s, the little soup, salad and sand wich place in the parking lot at 3019 Breckenridge Ln. has closed. La Rosita Mexican Grill had built a loyal following but a move to much larger digs at 336 Pearl St., New Albany and a failed second location in Louisville proved too much to handle effectively, and now the eatery has closed. Several other restaurants have folded: Soora Korean Restaurant at 2840 Goose Creek Rd., Coco’s Café, 1759 Bardstown Rd., Mike & Matt’s at 2835 Holmans Ln., Jeffersonville and Edesia Gardens, 10212 Taylorsville Rd., have all closed. Granny’s Apron has closed at 2605 Rockford Ln., (where Terri Ann’s has opened), and Fire Fresh BBQ has closed its 8610 Dixie Hwy. location, leaving only its store at 211 S. Fifth St. And, finally, Butterfly Garden Café, 1327 Bardstown Rd., has morphed into Emma Lou’s Café, under the same owner, with the same menu and style. F&D www.facebook.com/foodanddine Summer 2013

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humor

BY JAY FOREMAN

The Butterfly Shrimp Effect Chaos Theory, Hipsters and the Unintended Consequences of Foam What a long, strange trip it’s been. America is a countr y filled with independent-minded people proudly doing weird things, and perhaps nowhere is this better reflected than in its culinar y crazes. Our restaurants they are a-changing with the times, ser ving as a funhouse mirror for Americans’ desires at any given moment. Let’s take a look-see at snapshots from the last ten years. 2003: Atkins Diet A fringe diet previously kept under wraps by concerned cardiologists explodes into the mainstream when men learn that they can eat nothing but bacon and still lose weight. This results in a whole new subgenre of persnickety ordering (“I’d like a hamburger, but hold the bun and put the lettuce on the side”) that arguably lays the groundwork for the “Deconstruction” fad of 2006. Atkins soon morphs into the more benign South Beach Diet, which everyone then promptly ignores.

2004: Foam A wave of Ferran Adrià shadow warriors secretly infiltrates kitchens across the U.S. and in a coordinated assault they begin to garnish appetizers with dollops of a substance that looks like it should be collecting around a horse’s bit rather than sitting atop a lobe of seared foie on a plate shaped like a nun’s wimple. Also, 2004 sees the ascendency of Alton Brown and his legion of food nerds, who serve as the shock troops of the Molecular Gastronomy revolution.

2005: Katrina Indulge me in a bit of parochialism here. The big food fad this year in New Orleans was managing to find some. This was the Thanksgiving where I did my grocery shopping in a refrigerated truck in the Wal-Mart parking lot and had to figure out how to fit a 20-pound turkey into a dorm room cube fridge. This was also the year I became a connoisseur of MREs (and started writing for Food & Dining).

2006: Deconstruction Deconstructed appetizers rule the land, as fusty old chestnuts like Oysters Rockefeller are broken down into their constituent parts. Raw oysters, buttered brioche, and sautéed spinach are separately abandoned on giant trapezoidal plates for diners to reassemble, often with obscure implements like melon ballers and absinthe spoons.

2007: Tapas Tapas (Spanish for ‘‘Small portions with huge margins — sucker!’’) invade establishments nationwide. Prominent mathematicians are excited by the discovery of a new discipline of non-linear math in which a meal consisting of a few dishes costing $6 each 10 Summer 2013 www.foodanddine.com

astonishingly results in a bill of $237. In the process, chefs realize that customers will pay upwards of $30 dollars a slice for “Iberian” ham and a dried fig, leading to the charcuterie revolution.

2008: Charcuterie No restaurant is complete this year without a glass-walled meat locker visible from the main dining room. Hanging in this are cured meats (allegedly) made in-house and a candy apple red Berkel slicer placed tastefully on a butcher’s block, for effect. After a while diners catch on that this meat never actually gets used, because the only guys who really know how to cure raw meat in a manner that doesn’t kill you are weirdo survivalists who can’t hold a job for more than two weeks before returning to their deep-woods bunkers, thereby abandoning the very projects they were hired to see through.

2009: Recession Dining An economic crisis caused (in part) by mortgage-backed securities and (mostly) by defaulted payments on glass-walled custom charcuterie rooms collapses the U.S. economy. Their pantries bare, chefs have no choice but to fall back on “tricks of the trade” like Velveeta Shells n’ Cheese and sell them to diners at egregious markups as the new “Comfort Food.” Eventually, as the economy improves they begin to incorporate ingredients like “Jowl Bacon” as a $40 supplement to their 7-Course Tasting Menus.

2010: Organic Grains / Small Plates Wall Street finds its footing again thanks to the “Boutique Grains” movement, which is actually a thinly disguised plot by the commodities market to drive up futures for goods such as Quinoa, which nobody had ever heard of before and costs $1 per metric ton. Thousands of Andean peasants go hungry as their food is shipped en masse to Williams-Sonoma. Humanity’s Most Ancient Grain sits unused in pantries along the East Coast because nobody knows how to cook it, and besides, it tastes weird. The commodities bubble pops, causing a correction in the markets.

2011: Pop-Ups These quirky restaurants-within-restaurants befuddle food writers around the nation, who quickly learn that one can’t effectively cover a place that will no longer exist when the issue hits the

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stands. The fad loses steam when chefs realize that having a restaurant that stays in one place is enough of a pain in the ass without having to pack up all their gear and go cook in someone else’s kitchen every other Thursday. This morphs into …

2012: Food Trucks Food trucks allow rank amateurs to become restaurant owners overnight, upsetting the natural balance of the universe and possibly causing a rip in the fabric of space/time. Dropping the barrier to entry low enough to where if you can qualify for a lease on a used Kia you can buy into the restaurant game, food trucks allow 20-somethings emboldened by a drunken compliment (“These deep fried bacon eggs on a stick rock! You should so totally get a food truck!”) to become part of a “movement” where city ordinances and hostile brick-and-mor tar restaurant owners conspire against them and wish them dead. Eventually, all food trucks get rounded up and banished to Food Truck Ghettos where they stay in one place forever, completely undermining the purported advantage (mobility) that these entities have over the competition.

2013: Hipster Migration Not satisfied with having destroyed Brooklyn, successive waves of handlebarmustachioed “Craft Artisans” pedal west on Victorian bikes seeking blighted neighborhoods in which to plant urban gardens and instruct lifelong area residents on the nuances of sustainable farming and how local weeds should be employed in the creation of homemade bitters. ——————— So what comes next? It’s hard to say. Reality is weird enough without having to make up more of it. But I predict that within the next 20 years genetically modified foods, combined with irradiation “food safety” technologies, will result in a breed of “self-aware” corn (Skynet Gold© Monsanto) that enslaves humanity. This will force chefs from the future to send Gordon Ramsay back in time to keep it from ever happening. So enjoy that popcorn while you can, because in 2043, you might be the one slathered with truffle oil and served at an upscale movie theater at a 400% markup. Consider yourself warned. F&D www.facebook.com/foodanddine Summer 2013

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liquids hip hops

BY ROGER A. BAYLOR | PHOTOGRAPH BY DAN DRY

Aurge collaborative to trade

spaces Against the Grain connects its brewhouse to local kitchens

“Was it going to be a problem? Should one of us relinquish the name rights? ‘Hell, no!’ we said. In fact, it was quickly decided that we should blend the brews to catch the best qualities of each and create an even more complex and rich libation.” In 2004, Vinnie Cilurzo (Russian River Brewing, California) and Adam Avery (Avery Brewing, Colorado; quoted above) realized both were brewing similar Belgian-style ales called Salvation. In forever litigious America, one might have expected an immediate onslaught of “cease and desist” orders, but if the craft beer business is about anything at all, it’s a tendency to refrain from following the script reading “business as usual.” Eventually Cilurzo and Avery formulated a joint recipe and brewed their ales together. The result was Collaboration Not Litigation Ale, and if not the first such collective effort in the history of Craft Beer Nation, it was the one that turned the most heads, including my own. Just try to imagine multinational brewing conglomerates collaborating on any project other than price-rigging or marketfixing, and you’ll understand the reason I was captivated. During the years since, numerous craft brewers have worked with, not against, each other. They’ve creatively combined ideas, ingredients and methods to produce beers that inspire by sharing skill, wisdom and experience. If the very act of collaboration implies coming together to achieve goals, then the genre of collaboration beers testifies to the bilateral goal of lifting craft beer consciousness as a whole, benefitting the many and not only the few. Barely predating the advent of Collaboration Not Litigation Ale was the publication in 2003 of “The Brewmaster’s Table,” 12 Summer 2013 www.foodanddine.com

Chef Andy Myers’ BierePoix ale paired with a Kentucky rabbit dish served with pretzel bread stuffing and Brussels sprouts. written by Brooklyn Brewery head brewer Garrett Oliver. This seminal work was the first truly comprehensive attempt to make the case for well-considered food and beer pairings, and the book’s subsequent influence has been quite simply incalculable. Perhaps most obviously, beer dinners now are a regular feature of the dining landscape, with beers from one or more breweries matched with chefs’ specialties. But what if brewer and chef were to collaborate directly, up front rather than after the fact, thus actively extending the art of the collaboration into the brew house itself?

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Leave it to Louisville’s manic, quirky Against the Grain Brewery to devise an unconventional answer by enlisting Louisville area chefs to meld minds with head brewer Jerr y Gnagy in an ongoing liquid forum called the AtG/Chef Collaboration series. The series launched in July 2012, with the stated goal of promoting Louisville’s celebrated food and beer scene. Local chefs are asked to think conceptually about cuisine à la bière — not literally cooking with beer, but figuratively, brewing with food in mind. Par ticipating chefs must focus their ideas through at least one of three specific channels: ◆ Incorporating his or her “signature flavor” into the collaborative beer. ◆ Suggesting a beer style designed to pair best with cuisine at the chef ’s restaurant. ◆ Creating a beer ideal for drinking with food in broader terms. To date, the practical results have been impeccably eclectic and wholly reflective of a bilateral willingness to take chances, one 15-barrel batch at a time. The first AtG/Chef collaborative release was Bay & Pepper Your Bretts, brewed with Chef Josh Lehman of Holy Grale, where the menu draws heavily upon French and Belgian influences. Gnagy’s and Lehman’s Franco-Belgian hybrid Saison is mediumbodied, hazy golden and citrusy, with bay leaves lending aromatic spiciness and black peppercorns coming through in the finish. Customary fruity ale yeast is complemented with a light dosing of Brettanomyces for a dash of horsehair wildness. It’s a beer fully suited to the Grale’s unprecedented selection of classic ales from the region that inspired Lehman’s interest. Next came Galangal Action, a Thaiinspired, session-strength “honey” Kölsch brewed with watermelon, kaffir lime leaves and galangal, a peppery East Asian root often erroneously associated with ginger. Gnagy’s collaborating chef was Proof on Main’s Levon Wallace. The ale is straw yellow, with floral aromatics and a fluffy meringue lace. There is sweetness and galangal heat in front, yielding to an herbal bitterness. Rare Pacific Gem hops impart flavors of blackberries and wood. Wallace’s pairing suggestions, which include pork fritters, barbecued meats, and sautéed fish or chicken, make a salient point

about the deconstructivist tendencies inherent in the collaborative project: Relax and permit the unconventional but calculated textures, aromas and flavors of the beer to modify the unadorned, natural characteristics of the food. The apogee (so far!) was reached with the third, and at the time of writing, most recent AtG collaborative ale: BierePoix, a Bière de Garde conceived with Chef Andy Myers (The Anchorage Café). It is a liquid representation of Myers’ gastronomic memories of stock simmering in the preparation of a French rabbit dish served at Christmas. BierePoix combines classic French mirepoix (onion, carrot and celery) with thyme, toasted coriander, orange peel and sorghum in a textbook, malt-forward 6.8% ABV ale of the Nor thern French style. Precisely because of the rich malt underpinning, the olfactory impression is full and savory to the point of bouillon. Even more than Galangal Action, BierePoix demands the pairing consumer’s thoughtful reflection, because in Gnagy’s deft realization of Myers’ rich memor y, Bière de Garde is transformed from a solid, everyday “food beer” into a surrogate meal in and of itself, and any stray edible morsels within reach of the drinker are at risk of being rendered irrelevant in its wake. I first sampled BierePoix unaccompanied, and considered its complex impression of flavors and aromatics. My second drink came before chewing and swallowing a bite of Against the Grain’s succulent brisket, and the third immediately after another bite of the same. There were subtle differences each time, but the dancing, weaving interplay between meat and beer was the main attraction. It was entertaining and thought-provoking; most impor tant, it tasted not only good, but correct. That’s crucial. The AtG/Chef Collaboration series continues in 2013 with a second visit to the brewhouse by Proof ’s Wallace and a planned sessionable, lower gravity ale slated for release on Father’s Day. In mid- to late-summer, on a date and time to be announced, there’ll be a grand collaboration beer dinner at Against the Grain featuring par ticipating chefs and special dishes inspired by their beers. Visit our website at foodanddine.com for more information as it becomes available. F&D www.facebook.com/foodanddine Summer 2013 13

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food farmers’ market guide

from

BY GREG GAPSIS

farm to table

–Via the city –

When winter’s frosty tendrils recede from the earth, the blossoming of a familiar social phenomenon is not far off. Along with flowers, budding trees, and greening landscapes, neighborhood Farmers’ Markets start sprouting up with a growing vitality as summer rolls in. These midweek and weekend events unroll themselves in both public and private spaces to offer fresh produce and grassfed meats, baked goods, crafted sauces and preserves, local honey, and free-range eggs. They have a bit of the spirit of the caravan about them — part entertaining fair, part social event, part provider of necessities — that becomes the focal point for a public gathering and then rolls up its dozens of booths and spirits itself away until another time when it reappears to offer a movable feast of food and fun. The resurgence of neighborhood Farmers’ Markets is showing particular vitality locally. Nearly 20 years ago, there were only three open on a regular basis. Now there are 40 or so, as varied in personality and offerings as their locations. Some are just a couple of farmers selling out of the back of a pickup. Others look like block parties, with live music and booths selling cooked food. Public support, which is critical to the success of small markets, 18th Street Farmers’ Market (Year-round) Wednesday - Saturday 11 a.m. - 7 p.m., 1811 Standard Avenue, 778-1672. Bardstown Road Farmers’ Market (Yearround) Saturday 8 a.m. - noon, 1722 Bardstown Road (Presbyterian Church parking lot), 945-9161. Beechmont Open Air Market (Mid June Mid Oct.) Saturday 8 a.m. - noon, 4574 S. Third Street, (Beechmont Baptist Church parking lot), 367-2652. Bluegrass Global Growers Market (Mid June - Oct.) Wednesday 11:30 a.m. - 2 p.m., 4801 Southside Drive, 366-7813. Broadway Baptist Church Farmers’ Market (May - Sept.) Saturday 8 a.m. - noon, 4000 Brownsboro Road. California Neighborhood Farmers’ Market (Mid April - Oct.) Saturday 10 a.m. - 2 p.m., 2200 W. Kentucky Street, 776-1331. 14 Summer 2013 www.foodanddine.com

With fresh ingredients on consumers’ minds, local farmers’ markets continue to grow in number and popularity.

has grown for a variety of reasons. Markets are a different and engaging social event, but also a sign of a growing interest in how our food is grown and how it gets to us. Those most likely to be steady patrons of farmers’ markets are sold on all the arguments against industrial agribusiness — CAFOs, carbon footprints, GMOs, ASH. (That’s confined animal feeding operations, genetically-modified organisms, and anti-biotics, steroids and hormones fed to livestock to fatten them faster on grain.) But at local farmers’ markets, the theory and science and politics of local food is silently acknowledged, not vocally proselytized. Farmers’ markets are fun. So yes, people come to the markets to buy fresh, flavorful, locallyraised food. And to learn about new kinds of radishes and heirloom tomatoes. And to schmooze with friends, smile at babies (and at babes), to scarf down a catfish omelet or freshly-baked sticky bun. Fresh and local just tastes better. Ultimately it is the wonderful flavors of tomatoes, melons, peppers, and corn picked at their peak freshness that has people coming, and coming back for more. To get those not yet familiar with local farmers’ markets, we provide a list of where and when they are, and a ripening guide to let you know when to expect what.

Crescent Hill Farmers’ Market (Mid May Oct.) Monday & Friday 7 a.m. - 10 a.m., 201 S. Peterson Avenue (Crescent Hill United Methodist Church parking lot), 968-3693.

Jeffersontown Farmers’ Market (Mid May - Oct.) Saturday 8 a.m. - noon and Tuesday 3 p.m. - 6:30 p.m., 10434 Watterson Trail (Jeffersontown Pavilion), 267-8333.

Douglass Loop Farmers’ Market (Mid April - Dec.) Saturday 10 a.m. - 2 p.m., 2005 Douglass Boulevard, 452-2629.

Louisville Farmers’ Market 1 (Mid May Sept.) Saturday 9 a.m. - 1 p.m., 7624 Shelbyville Road, 272-0077.

Fern Creek Farmers’ Market (Mid May Mid Sept.) Saturday 8 a.m. - noon, 6104 Bardstown Road, 239-7550.

Louisville Farmers’ Market 2 (Mid May Mid Sept.) Wednesday 3 p.m. - 6 p.m., 153 S. English Station Road, 272-0077.

Gray Street Farmers’ Market (Mid May Oct.) Thursday 10:30 a.m. - 2p.m., 400 E. Gray Street, 852-8781.

Louisville Farmers’ Market 3 (Mid May Sept.) Thursday 3 p.m. - 6 p.m., 1301 Herr Lane, 272-0077.

Growing Forward Refugee Farmers’ Market (Mid June - Oct.) Sunday 10 a.m. - 12:30 p.m., 1960 Bardstown Road, 365-4713.

Lyndon Farmers’ Market (Mid May - Mid Oct.) Thursday 3 p.m. - 6 p.m., 7515 Westport Road, 425-2266.

Hikes Point–Meadowview Farmers’ Market (Mid May - Sept.) Friday 3 p.m. - 6 p.m., 2944 Breckenridge Lane (Meadowview Presbyterian Church), 648-0148.

Middletown Farmers’ Market (June - Sept.) Saturday 8:30 a.m. - noon, 11800 Shelbyville Road (Village Square Shopping Center).

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Norton Commons Farmers’ Market (April - Oct.) Saturday 9 a.m. - 1 p.m., 9420 Norton Commons Boulevard.

Westport Road Baptist Farmers’ Market (May - Oct.) Saturday 9 a.m. - 12:30 p.m., 9705 Westport Road, 252-1400.

Okolona Farmers’ Market (June - Oct.) Tuesday 3 p.m. - 7 p.m., 8620 Preston Highway, 633-9590.

Whole Foods Farmers’ Market (Mid May - Sept.) Wednesday 3 p.m. - 7p.m., 4944 Shelbyville Road, 899-5545.

Old Louisville FarmWorks Market (Mid May - Oct.) Wednesday 3 p.m. - 6 p.m., 1101 S. Third Street (Walnut Street Baptist Church parking lot), 348-8251.

Victory Park Farmers’ Market (June - Oct.) Saturday noon - 3 p.m., S. 22nd Street and Kentucky Street, 775-4041.

Phoenix Hill NuLu Farmers’ Market (Mid May - Oct.) Tuesday 3 p.m. - 6:30 p.m., 1007 E. Jefferson Street (Fresh Star t Growers’ Supply parking lot), 583-1733.

INDIANA

Rainbow Blossom Farmers’ Market (Mid May - Oct.) Sunday noon - 4 p.m., 3738 Lexington Road, 896-0189. Rowan Street Farmers’ Market (Mid June - Oct.) Tuesday & Thursday 8 a.m. - noon, 3360 Commerce Center Place, 510-0819. Russell Neighborhood Farmers’ Market (June - Oct.) Friday 3 p.m. - 6:30 p.m., S. 22nd Street and Cedar Street, 775-4041. St. Andrews Farmers’ Market (May - Oct.) Thursday 3 p.m. - 6:30 p.m., 2608 Browns Lane, 643-6584. St. Francis in the Fields Farmers’ Market (June - Nov.) Saturday 9:30 a.m. - 1 p.m. and Tuesday 3 p.m. - 6:30 p.m., 6710 Wolf Pen Branch Road, 968-3693. St. Matthews Farmers’ Market (Mid May Sept.) Saturday 8 a.m. - noon, 4100 Shelbyville Road (Beargrass Christian Church), 905-7278. Southwest Farmers’ Market (June - Oct.) Saturday 9 a.m. - 1 p.m., 10200 Dixie Highway (Valley High School), 744-7523. Spalding Farmers’ Market (June - Oct.) Monday 11 a.m. - 2 p.m., 845 S.Third Street, 775-4041. Temple Farmers’ Market (April - Nov.) Tuesdays & Thursdays 3 p.m. - 7 p.m., 5101 US Hwy 42, 423-1818. Tower View Farm and Nursery Farmers’ Market (Year-round) Monday-Saturday 8 a.m. - 7 p.m. and Sunday 10 a.m. - 5 p.m., 12523 Taylorsville Road, 267-2066.

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Jeffersonville Farmers’ Market (June - Mid Oct.) Saturday 9 a.m. - noon and Tuesday 3 p.m. - 6 p.m., 240 Wall Street (Wall Street United Methodist Church), Jeffersonville, IN, (812) 283-0301.

New Albany Farmers’ Market (June - Sept.) Wednesday 4 p.m. - 7 p.m., Saturday 8 a.m. - 1 p.m., 202 E. Market Street, New Albany, IN, 905-3640. The Farmers’ Market at Sam’s (June - Sept.) Saturday 8 a.m. - noon, 3800 Payne Koehler Road (Sam’s Food & Spirits parking lot), New Albany, IN, (812) 246-2673. Charlestown Farmers’ Market (Mid May Oct.) Thursday 3 p.m. - 6 p.m., Main Street, Charlestown, IN, (812) 283-0301. Floyds Knobs Farmers’ Market (Year-round) Saturday 8a.m. -1p.m., 400 Lafollette Station Drive, Floyds Knobs, IN. Floyd Memorial Hospital Farmers’ Market (June - Sept.) Tuesday 11 a.m. - 2 p.m., 1850 State Street New Albany, IN, 905-3640.

April May June July Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec VEGETABLES ASPARAGUS BEANS BROCCOLI CABBAGE CAULIFLOWER CORN (SWEET) CUCUMBERS EGGPLANT LETTUCE OKRA ONIONS ONIONS (GREEN) PEAS PEPPERS POTATOES PUMPKINS SQUASH (SUMMER) SQUASH (WINTER) TOMATOES TURNIPS

FRUITS APPLES BLACKBERRIES BLUEBERRIES CHERRIES CANTALOUPE GRAPES PEACHES PEARS PLUMS RASPBERRIES STRAWBERRIES WATERMELONS www.facebook.com/foodanddine Summer 2013 15

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people and places profiles

BY CARLA CARLTON | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

CHEF COBY MING Age: 40 Current restaurant: Harvest Previous restaurants: Wiltshire Pantry and Wiltshire on Market; Le Relais; 211 Clover Lane; Shariat’s; Dietrich’s Neighborhood (current): Crescent Hill Hometown: Grew up in Galveston, Texas; Louisiana; and Madisonville, Ky. Significant other: Patty Knight Kids: No Favorite hobbies: Fishing; any kind of getting outdoors by water. Favorite Cookbook: “It changes, but Alice Waters and Eric Ripert are two that I like to pick up a lot and get inspiration from.” Favorite Kitchen Gadget: Mandoline or microplaner.

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QA &

As a female in a male-dominated field, Chef Coby Ming is used to being underestimated. In fact, she welcomes it. In the variety of places she worked before becoming head chef at Harvest, she says, “My goal was always to be really quiet in the beginning — watch and observe and figure out what was going on, and then put my head down and do it. Most of the time, I would rise to the top.” She favors a collegial kitchen to a dramatic one and hesitated to name two restaurant personalities she’d want on a “Survivor: Louisville Chef” team for fear of hurting feelings. That’s OK. With Harvest’s emphasis on seasonal farm-to-table fare, she’s the one you want on the team. “We’ll take this grass and make soup! Yes.” She chatted with F&D over a rosy margarita flavored with a shot of cranberry bitters.

What is your first food memory? I lived in Galveston, Texas, until maybe the third grade. They had a dish called BBQ crab. Not BBQ like barbecue sauce; it’s butter and spices. They used blue crabs. I remember going to this restaurant with big community tables and they would just bring out a huge pile of this crab. It was spicy and sweet and delicious. I would say to this day that crab may be my favorite seafood.

Who has influenced your cooking the most? My mother and my grandmother. For special occasions, my mother would say, “You can go out to eat, or I’ll make you whatever you want.” I would alternate between my favorite Chinese restaurant and a list of things that she made. Many times it was my grandmother’s fried potatoes and onions, my mom’s fried chicken, and what we called wilted-leaf salad, with just tons

of bacon, super vinegary, a little sweet, lots of green onions.

Why did you become a chef? I didn’t really think about it as a career until I was in college. I was in the physical therapy department at UK, and I just didn’t feel a connection. My roommate’s father was from Germany and had decided at the age of 14 that he wanted to be a chef and went and trained for years. I heard his story and it blew my mind. I just kind of stopped to figure things out. I toured Sullivan and was really impressed, moved to Louisville to go to school and have been here ever since. Who are your favorite chefs? Here in town, I’m a huge fan and acquaintance of Bobby Benjamin (La Coop). Bruce (Ucan) at the Mayan Café. I have tremendous respect for Daniel Stage, who I worked with at Le Relais; he’s at the Louisville Country Club now. And Alice Waters and

(pictured below, from left) Pizza topped with black bean purée, smoked chévre cheese, corn tomato jam relish and crispy tortilla; strip steak and eggs served with three cheese grits on a toasted herb biscuit; Hot Brown burger — turkeybacon patty topped with sweet potato Mornay sauce and dried cherry tomato relish.

Eric Ripert, I definitely hold very high. I’m very impressed by what I know of their systems and how they do things and how they treat people. Other than your own restaurant, what’s the first place you’d take an out-oftowner? La Coop for sure. Proof on Main. That is a very impressive, unique space — even if you just take a trip to the bathroom and walk around! You don’t feel like you’re in Louisville. Which seasonings don’t you respect? I would not pick up a premade spice blend. I prefer to make my own. Which are underrated? Coriander. It’s sweet and savory and can match several different cuisines. Do you have a go-to farmers market, and what do you usually shop for there? We have the luxury (at Harvest) that a lot of times, the market comes to us! But we (See MING, page 18)

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(continued from page 17)

did venture into the New Albany market last summer and made quite a few new connections. And Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m always a fan of the Bardstown Road market. What do I buy? Whatever is looking the best. I donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t ever go with a specific thing in mind.

Are there any culinary trends you are wild about right now? Knowing the source of your ingredients. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a big part of what we do.

Any trends you consider overrated? Some of the extreme molecular gas tronomy. I respect the technique and the knowledge behind it, but it just gets you so far from what the food was at the very beginning. Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s your greatest strength in the kitchen? Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d say my palate and organization.

What music was playing in the kitchen last night? â&#x20AC;&#x153;Call Me Maybeâ&#x20AC;? by Carly Rae Jepsen. The boys in the back, they love that song. What was the last book you read? â&#x20AC;&#x153;Pig Perfect.â&#x20AC;? I got it for Christmas. This guy (author Peter Kaminsky) is basically searching for the best ham, be it country ham or prosciutto. He spends some time in Spain and some time in Kentucky, with Newsomâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ham, and he tells many stories along the way about the farmers. Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s your favorite go-to ingredient? Garlic oil. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s something I developed at the Pantry because I didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t like the inconsistencies of using just chopped garlic â&#x20AC;&#x201D; sometimes it would burn, and sometimes it wouldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be cooked enough. Here, we use it for roasting, grilling, marinating. Is there a guilty-secret ingredient in your kitchen â&#x20AC;&#x201D; something youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d rather not be spotted using? A can opener. Ours is in our office, and itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the sharpest, cleanest can opener Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve ever seen! I think Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve only used it once, and I canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t even remember what I used it for. Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s in your fridge at home? I always have a batch of my garlic oil. It would be hard for me to cook without it. Crystal Hot Sauce. Some sort of bacon. Ashbourne Farms ground beef. Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll usually keep a little stash of frozen vegetables. Is there anything in that home fridge youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d rather not admit to having?

18 Summer 2013Â www.foodanddine.com

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Probably the little rotten lemon in the bottom drawer! What food is your guilty pleasure? Really good French fries.

Is there a food you can’t bring yourself to eat? Eggs. We had chickens for a short time when I was growing up, and it was my job to take care of them. I loved them. One day I went to get the eggs and there was a partially developed little bird, and that was traumatic. And another time when I went to feed them, I guess a chicken hawk had … there were just parts and pieces everywhere. I think that was the last time I had eggs. I don’t mind cooking them, and I really wish that I loved to eat them. I just can’t. Maybe I just need a little therapy.

Your worst kitchen nightmare? One year I worked the pantry station on New Year’s Eve at Dietrich’s. We had a soufflé as one of the dessert options. We got everything prepped, but it wasn’t until I started to get 45 orders for soufflé that I realized we only had 25 cups for them. I remember I was screaming, “Eighty-six the soufflés!” And Bim Dietrich, the owner, was saying, “You put them in ashtrays before you 86 them! I’ll get you cups!” I guess that was my first exposure to how important organization is. Dumbest thing you’ve ever done with food or in a kitchen? We had a plated dinner for 350 people in a tent at Whitehall in March. It was freezing and we were worried about the plates being cold. The plates were stacked in four milk crates, and somebody came up with this idea to put large sheet pans around them with Sternos in the middle and make a little hot box. Just as we were about to plate the entrées, I lifted the top pan and it just went WHOOOSH! I had to duck down and put the fire out, and we had to scramble. I don’t think anyone out front had a clue, but we just about lost it in the back. I don’t think I slept for two days! Best cooking tip for a novice? Don’t be afraid to jump in there and have fun. Get a few solid recipes under your belt and use them as a guide. Don’t be worried about switching out ingredients. You’ll make some mistakes, but you’ll learn what you like. F&D

The Perfect Location for Every Occasion

KENTUCKY’S Y’S FIRST AND ONLY AAA FIVE DIAMOND AWARD RESTAURANT

Located in

500 South Fourth Street www.TheOakroomLouisville.com (502) 807-DINE

www.facebook.com/foodanddine Summer 2013 19

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liquids urban bourbon trail

BY CARLA CARLTON | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

URBAN

THE SEA HAG BOURBON @ VILLAGE T R A I L ANCHOR Located in an historic building that once housed a train station, the Village Anchor Pub & Roost is the easternmost stop on the Urban Bourbon Trail. Along with its companion, lower-level bar space, dubbed “The Sea Hag,” it is the perfect place to wet your whistle in Anchorage. The Village Anchor officially joined the Trail in March 2012, but membership was the goal from the beginning, said owner Kevin Grangier, a former corporate marketing professional who opened the restaurant in May 2010. “The menu was designed to represent the South and Kentucky, and clearly, a big part of that is Bourbon,” he said. In the same spirit, the bar offers 67 Bourbons, by the pour or in flights of three. “With Bourbon as such a significant part of the bar, the Urban Bourbon Trail made sense to us.” And with the majority of the stops on the Trail clustered downtown, “we thought we would add a different flavor,” Grangier said. It’s a quirky flavor, for sure. The main building, now painted a bright yellow, is divided into two spaces. The main restaurant is a good choice for a special occasion, with its upholstered bar, dark paneling, chandeliers and Old World paintings in heavy gilded frames on the ceiling. Downstairs, the Sea Hag bar has a classic pub feel. It opens onto a large covered patio that, through the use of fans and heaters, offers al fresco dining most of the year. Every Thursday, Smokin’ Bourbon Thursday draws fans of both Bourbon and Apricot Bourbon pork cigars to the patio from 5:30 to 10 p.m., where a flight of three Bourbons is offered and

In this issue, Food & Dining begins a series on the Urban Bourbon Trail. The Louisville Convention & Visitors Bureau created the Trail, a culinary and cocktail experience, in 2008 to capitalize on the burgeoning interest in America’s native spirit. Since then, the number of stops has increased from seven to 28. The participating establishments must offer a minimum of 50 Bourbons and use Bourbon as an ingredient in some menu items. Ride along with us as we visit them all, and discover how the spirit moves them — behind the bar and in the kitchen.

the first 30 people receive complimentary cigars from Oxmoor Smoke Shoppe. As noted earlier, Bourbon also infuses the menu at the Village Anchor. One “big, big seller” is the Cast Iron Scallops entrée ($34), says operations manager Lauren Gargotto. Fir st seared in vanilla butter, four jumbo scallops are then served with a Woodford Reserve demi-glace and grilled asparagus. A smaller portion (two scallops, $13) is available as an appetizer. The Apricot Bourbon Pork ($25) is a center-cut, bone-in pork chop served with an apricot-Bourbon glaze. The Kentucky Marsala ($26), a local twist on a dish usually prepared with wine, features a chicken breast pan-seared with Bourbon, tomatoes, mushrooms, onions, garlic, candied Anchor Bacon and fresh herbs, served over angel-hair pasta. Other entrées with a Bourbon-inspired preparation include the Bourbon Ale Short Ribs ($28); the North Atlantic Salmon ($25), featuring a brown sugar-Bourbon glaze; and the grilled filet (12 ounce, $42; 6 ounce, $28), with that Woodford demi-glace. To Grangier, having a spot on the Urban Bourbon Trail is proof that a place takes Bourbon seriously. “It allows Bourbon connoisseurs — or self-described connoisseurs — to participate in something thoughtful,” he says. “People know going in that they will have a good experience there.”

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Number of Bourbons: 67 Most popular Bourbons: Maker’s Mark; Maker’s 46 Priciest shots: Pappy Van Winkle 23-year-old, $60; Angel’s Envy Cask Strength (limited edition), $50 Bourbon flights: Village Anchor offers nine flights of three Bourbons each, ranging in price from a trio of Frankfort Fillies (Ancient Ancient Age 10 year, Benchmark and Weller Antique 7 year) for $8, to three Oldies But Goodies — Bourbons aged more than 12 years (Jefferson’s Reserve 15 year, Noah’s Mill 15 year and Jefferson’s Presidential 18 year) for $16. Signature Bourbon cocktails: The Trifecta Julep, made with lavender simple syrup, St. Germaine elderflower liqueur and Four Roses Small Batch; the Moteato, made with Bourbon and iced tea; the East Village Manhattan, made with Rittenhouse rye, sweet vermouth, Benedictine and Angostura bitters; and a seasonal Old Fashioned. For winter, the Old Fashioned was mixed using a pumpkin-flavored artisanal simple syrup; for spring, the Anchor is using a brown-sugar syrup and calling the cocktail a “New Fashioned”:

Village Anchor New Fashioned 2 ounces Old Forester Signature Dash of Angostura bitters Dash of Old Fashioned Bitters 1 /2 ounce Brown Sugar syrup (courtesy of Kilimanjaro Foods) Stir all ingredients and serve on the rocks; garnish with an orange peel.

(Top) Trifecta Julep; (above) New Fashioned; (middle right) Kentucky marsala with a bacon and Bourbon sauce served with an East Village Manhattan; (bottom right) seared scallops with a Bourbon demi-glace; (below) mixologists Levi Beckley and Kylee Marcy.

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easy entertaining kebab party

y s a E

BY TIM AND LORI LAIRD | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

kebab party

22 Summer 2013Â www.foodanddine.com

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It’s hard to beat a cookout for casual entertaining. The mood is relaxed, never rushed, and the food is informal, which makes for a perfect opportunity to grill kebabs. This ancient means of grilling food is not only a fun way to cook, it lends itself to lots of creativity and a shared experience. Depending on what you like to eat, kebabs can be elegantly and colorfully arranged since you can blend vegetables, fruits and proteins however you like. Assemble them before guests arrive or put out your precut ingredients and let your guests assemble their own. We’ve created a fourcourse dinner using a variety of kebabs to grill quickly through out the meal. We recom mend you star t with panzanella kebabs (grilled bread salad on a skewer), then move on to the fish course, then the main course (chicken, beef or lamb), and finally dessert. We suggest serving your kebabs off the skewer to take up less space on the plate. (Tip: To release the food smoothly, place the fork behind the last piece of food and over the skewer end nearest your hand. Then pull the skewer slowly toward you to let the food slide onto the plate.)

▲

Have fun with your kebab party and use the spices and sauces you like best to create your own signature skewers.

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This is fun, so get the party started smoothly by prepping your food ingredients, firing up the grill and while it heats up make some cocktails. Two cocktails that fit the occasion are the Jimi’s Cucumber Smash and the Ruby Manhattan.

Kebab Ideas: Panzanella — Cubed bread, cherry tomatoes, mozzarella cheese balls and red onions. Drizzle with pesto. Note: These will take very little time on the grill as you just want the bread to toast lightly and the cheese to melt slightly. Fish — Salmon and tuna. Use an Asian fish rub to season the fish and serve over rice with a sweet chili sauce.

Chicken — Cubed chicken, yellow, green and orange peppers. Try this with fajita seasoning and serve with guacamole, salsa and sour cream on a pita.

Lamb — Cubed lamb, red onion and cherry tomato. Marinate the lamb and use Moroccan or Greek spices and serve over Israeli couscous with Tzatziki Sauce.

Beef — Cubed beef, green peppers, red skin potatoes and mushrooms. Marinate your beef in Italian dressing and serve this with horseradish sauce. Note: Steam the redskin potatoes ahead of time so they are almost fully cooked; they can char and finish cooking on the grill.

24 Summer 2013 www.foodanddine.com

Tips: • Cut the ingredients into similar-size (1to 2-inch) pieces. • If marinating, refrigerate fish for 1 hour; beef, lamb and chicken overnight. • Preheat grill to high to sear the meat, then turn down to medium to cook. • Turn the skewers often and cook to desired doneness, usually 3-15 minutes. • If using wooden skewers, soak them in water for 20 minutes beforehand. • Use double skewers to prevent the items from spinning on a single skewer.

Side Dishes: In addition to the traditional white rice and couscous, there are many more options to try. We now have available various types of rice (brown, wild, Jasmine, Basmati), seas oned or un seasoned. The same is true with couscous, which can be found in several different sizes and seasonings to pair with your kebabs. Pita bread and French fries are always great options if you are serving your kebab as a sandwich.

Dessert Suggestion: Skewer brownie bites or chunks and marshmallows. Grill until just warmed through and the marshmallows are slightly browned. Serve with a bowl of vanilla ice cream and a drizzle of hot fudge. Jimi’s Cucumber Smash 3 cucumber slices 2 ounces el Jimador Blanco Muddle the above, then add: ¾ ounce agave syrup 1 ounce fresh lime juice Shake and strain into a rocks glass with ice. Garnish with cucumber slice.

Ruby Manhattan In a shaker with ice, add: 1½ ounces Woodford Reserve Bourbon 3 ounces pinot noir wine 1 ounce simple syrup Squeeze of Lemon Shake and strain into a martini glass. Garnish with a lemon twist.

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(left side, top to bottom) Beef skewer; lamb kebab; panzanella. (right side, top to bottom) Chicken kebab; fish kebab; brownie skewer.

www.facebook.com/foodanddine Summer 2013 25

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pick three

BY KATY YOCOM | PHOTOS BY DAN DRY

ick

With this issue, Food & Dining is rolling out a new feature we’re calling Pick Three. The concept lets us shine a spotlight on a trio of restaurants with a common tie. In one issue, Pick Three might feature, say, barbecue joints. In another, it might be breakfast spots or classic establishments that have been going strong for years. Whatever the theme, Pick Three lets us go beyond a simple one-off feature, beyond the either-or nature of comparing two dining spots, to the added dimension that’s possible when exploring three restaurants with something in common. For our inaugural Pick Three feature, we’re looking at a trio of new entries into the local dining scene by established, high-profile restaurateurs. You know Susan Seiller as the former owner of Jack Fry’s. Edward Lee’s name is synonymous with 610 Magnolia. Chase Mucerino and Adam Burress perfected gourmet bar food at Hammerheads. All of them have new projects up and running. None chose a space on any of Louisville’s three (count ’em, three) restaurant rows. Relish, Game and MilkWood are three new restaurants by seasoned pros who have each, in different ways, made some sur prising decisions in the process of expanding their vision.

26 Summer 2013 www.foodanddine.com

Relish 1346 River Rd. (502) 5 8 7. 7 0 0 7

Susan Seiller embraces high-flavor, healthful food in an under-served location. After selling Jack Fr y’s in 2008 following a wildly successful twodecade run, Susan Seiller, 58, took a break to travel, hike, and take up the African djembe drum. Far from retirement, those years were a recharging period before she set out to create something new. All the while, a radically different dining concept was nudging at her. Relish — a café offering dinein and gourmet-to-go options — is the result. “Entrepreneurs are artists, and they need to actualize a vision,” Seiller says. Vision is right: Relish has its own manifesto, reading in part, “We believe in the power of fresh citrus, herbs, and healthy fats. We use salt, sugar, and fats in moderation.” Seiller began embracing “healthful food” (don’t call it “health food”) six years ago, when she began cooking for her father after his open-heart surgery. “What I discovered,” she says, “is you can get a lot of flavor out of vinegars and citrus. Grilling instead of sautéing. Roasting. Using a lot of fresh herbs and seasonings in place of salt.” Chef Jack Beeson, previously of 211 Clover Lane and Le Relais, translates those tactics into a globally influenced menu including a pressed ropa vieja sandwich ($10), Tom Kha soup ($5 to $7), and grilled salmon with ginger hoisin glaze ($8.50 for a small plate). Relish is a clean, sleekly attractive space featuring lots of white and a flood of natural light. Its most distinctive feature may be its location — in a

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shopping strip on River Road, just east of Waterfront Park. Diners can be forgiven for asking, “Where?” But Seiller sees loads of potential in this under-served location. “The opening of the (Big Four) walking bridge has energized this park,” she says. “We draw people from Butchertown and Clifton, the 07 zip code.” The thousands of East Enders who use River Road as an artery out of downtown can stop to pick up dinner on their way home from work. (Seiller’s admiration of New York food shops Balducci’s and Dean & Deluca inspired her to offer carr y-out food.) Relish originally served only lunch and carry-out; as of mid-April, it offers dinner as well. Seiller has never followed the crowd, as evidenced by her excellent, ahead-of-its-time Mediterranean tapas restaurant La Paloma, a bright spot in Louisville’s early-1990s scene. But if she’s a visionary, she’s one who savors collaboration. “I’m at an age where I realize it’s not just the vision of one person,” she says. A Gratitude section on the website lists dozens of people who contributed to the birth of Relish. “I can’t tell you how satisfying it’s been to work with these talented, smart people. It’s pleasurable. When you’re young, you don’t necessarily see that.” It seems inevitable that Seiller has decades of creative activity ahead of her. The best evidence: Her 79-year-old mother, Lynn Seiller, owns NuLu textile shop Canoe. “If anyone questions whether I’m too old to be doing this,” Seiller says, smiling, “I think they need to give my mom a call.”

(opposite, top ) Chef Jack Beeson and Susan Seiller. (above) Chicken salad sandwich with roasted tomatoes, rocket greens, and lemon aioli. (right) Grilled apple and rocket salad with Capriole chevre, pickled onions, toasted pepitas and balsamic vinaigrette. (bottom, left) Grilled salmon with a ginger hoisin glaze served over sesame lime buckwheat soba. (opposite, bottom) Tom Kha (Thai soup), with coconut milk, lemongrass, chicken, and mushrooms.

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Game 2295 Lexington Rd. (502) 6 1 8 .1 7 7 2

(top) Adam Burress (left) and Chase Mucerino. (above) Tartare sliders. (bottom row, L-R) Meatball sampler with lamb, antelope, kangaroo, wild boar, elk, duck and venison; kangaroo burger with truffle oil fries; foie gras funnel cake with a red wine, orange and rosemary marmalade. (opposite, top) Bone marrow with Parmesan, poblano and rosemary. 28 Summer 2013 www.foodanddine.com

Adam Burress and Chase Mucerino hunt it down, grind it up and feed it to devoted customers. If Susan Seiller is the voice of experience in this trio, Adam Burress and Chase Mucerino are the brash young upstarts. Burress and Mucerino pairbonded at Sullivan College ten years ago and worked their way together through kitchens including BLU, Jeff Ruby’s, and Seviche before opening Hammerheads, the popular gourmet-barfood dive in Germantown. In February — with Hammerheads successful to the point of turning patrons away — the two opened Game, a burger joint with the viewpoint that just about any animal tastes good when ground, formed into a patty, and served on a bun. Kangaroo? Check. Wild boar? Check. Camel? It showed up as a special in March. With the popularity of Hammerheads, why branch out now? Hammerheads works so well “it kind of runs itself,” Burress says, praising the highly competent staff. “There toward the end, we were just kind of in the way, and you can only do nothing for so long.” And the two couldn’t help but notice that game burger specials at Hammerheads sold like crazy. “The way it took off,” Mucerino says, “we figured it’d be nice to have a whole restaurant devoted to wild game burgers. Nobody else was doing it, and we felt people in this town would really enjoy it.” Both men grew up hunting. Burress ticks off his quarry: “Pheasant, deer, goose, turkey … I’ve even done frog gigging.” Mucerino grew up in Dickson, Tenn., hunting deer, squirrel, and rabbit, because “it’s a lot cheaper to fill the freezer with wild game than to go to the grocery.”

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Game’s build-your-own-burger menu lists venison ($12), elk ($12), and salmon ($8) as well as a trio of veggie burgers including grilled corn, poblano and garbanzo ($8). Cheese costs a dollar extra. In addition to the usual toppings, add-ons from foie gras ($8) to grilled fennel ($1) are available. Bread options include brioche and pretzel; sauces include sesame wasabi ketchup and bone marrow mayo. Not all the meat is actual game. Burress and Mucerino mention the Wagyu beef burger and a special item, the lamb heart burger, as personal favorites. In March, they took heat for offering Hudson Valley foie gras. Animal rights activists protested. Mucerino and Burress play it philosophical but note that the protest “tripled our business” that day. “There’s no hard feelings,” Burress adds. Not every exotic item on the menu becomes a mainstay. The aforementioned camel, imported from Australia (where does one source a camel? “I got this guy,” Burress says), is not likely to repeat. Ostrich, on the original menu, quickly came off because it was expensive, tough, and full of sinew. Most of the meat comes from Durham Ranch, a wild game purveyor in Wyoming. Among local items, lamb hearts come from Marksbury Farm, and greens come from Grateful Greens. Game is located in a glass-front building at 2295 Lexington Road that most recently housed Cycler’s Café. Like Hammerheads, they don’t take reser vations, but you get the idea that they do serve the overflow crowd from Hammerheads, five minutes away. The owners shrug off their slightlyoff-the-beaten-path location. “What we found with Hammerheads,” Burress says, “is as long as you know what you’re doing, location’s not important. Hell, my favorite restaurant’s Vietnam Kitchen.”

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MilkWood 316 W. Main St. (502) 584.6455

Edward Lee makes Actors Theatre a happening dining location. As long as you know what you’re doing, location’s not important? Fair enough. Still, the most surprising new venue this year has to be Edward Lee’s new restaurant, MilkWood, in — of all places — the downstairs space at Actors Theater. Why would Lee — of 610 Magnolia fame, finalist for James Beard Foundation Best Chef Southeast award, darling of food TV and magazines — decide to open a restaurant in a space known for its revolving series of dining spots, none memorable, most lasting a few seasons at best? Because, current success notwithstanding, he’s a compulsive goal-setter. “I’m enjoying the ride,” he acknowledges, “but I’ve been in this industry long enough to know that accolades come and accolades go.” Okay. But still, why Actors? Restaurants located in theaters and museums “don’t tend to be the most envelope-pushing in town,” he admits. “But you’re seeing that change.” He mentions the Guggenheim in Bilbao, Spain, and MOMA in New York. “You’re starting to see restaurants with their own identity.” Lee had been wanting to expand beyond his white-tablecloth dining room at 610, and as a supporter of the arts, he was drawn to the idea when a friend offered to connect him with Actors. Synergy ensued. The new restaurant had to meet certain baseline considerations — it had to open anytime there’s a performance and hold tables for VIPs and actors — “but we wanted to do something fun, casual, very different from 610 both from a menu standpoint and a design standpoint. We wanted to forge a new identity.” MilkWood is definitely that. Brightened by whitepainted brick walls and centered on an L-shaped bar, the below-ground space feels of-the-moment (top left) Beverage Mgr. Stacie Stewart (left), Edward Lee (center) and GM Len Stevens. (left, middle) Pork burger topped with Napa kimchi, cracklins and Havarti on a pretzel bun. (opposite, clockwise from top left) Executive Chef Kevin Ashworth; frog legs in Bourbon brown butter, pickled fresno, celery and cilantro; fried chicken and waffle with a buttermilk dressing; BBQ pork shoulder with jicama, ancient grains and grilled bread crumbs.

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and vibrant, where 610 is timeless and elegant. MilkWood, Lee says, is “fun. It’s loud, it’s different foodwise, it’s casual, it’s convivial. There’s a big bar scene. It’s everything 610 is not. But the one common thread is that we’re very passionate. “The dining landscape has become ver y exciting,” he continues. “Definitely free-form. The idea that good food only comes from expensive restaurants is a last-generation idea. I love fine dining, and I don’t think it’ll go away, but MilkWood’s the other side of the coin.” Lee installed Len Stevens, formerly of L&N Wine Bar, as GM and credits him with setting a high bar for service. He tapped Kevin Ashworth as head chef for MilkWood after spending the past two years watching Ashworth excel as a member of the 610 team. “He’s a young guy,” Lee says, “but he’s so mature beyond his age in restaurant knowhow and menu know-how.” Ashwood and Lee developed the Southernmeets-Asian menu together. The fried chicken and waffles star ter ($7) is a hit, as is the Vietnamese lamb sausage with grits, pan jus, and green tomato relish ($8). The pork and kimchi burger ($11) is not a best-seller, “but everyone who orders it flips out over it,” Lee says. Other options include brisket ($16) and crispy skin duck with apricot hoisin and accompaniments ($38 for a twoperson serving). Lee expects the offerings to evolve as the restaurant cycles through seasonal menus. He mentions a new spring-summer menu due out mid-May, after Actors’ season ends. Staying open year-round is one more way Lee and his team plan to take MilkWood where no Actors restaurant has gone before. F&D

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in search of old fashioned

BY DAN DRY

In Search of thePerfect OldFashioned To commemorate this 10th Anniversary issue of Food & Dining, and my shooting nearly every photograph published in the magazine during that time span, I wanted to do a photo essay that would be different from anything that I had ever done. (See “10 Years of Images” page 40.) During that decade I have seen plenty of restaurants and bars come and go, plenty of food crazes follow, and I’ve witnessed plenty of change in the overall restaurant landscape. But one of the biggest changes is not only the advent and use of social media by restaurants, but the virtually universal use of cell phones by patrons to photograph their food and cocktails. With smartphones, they have instant access to the Internet, and can share those images instantly through social media for all to see. The more I saw restaurant patrons of every stripe whipping out their cell phones to take their versions of what food writer and TV personality Anthony Bourdain calls “food porn,” the more I thought about how cool it would be for me to shoot every photo in an essay with my iPhone. Now all I needed was the subject matter. Around that same time I was having drinks with our friends and fellow Food & Dining contributors Tim and Lori Laird. Tim, in his position as Brown-Forman’s Chief Entertaining Officer, has finely honed cocktail-making skills, so when he offered to concoct one of his classic Old Fashioneds, made with Old Forester Bourbon, I put aside my usual drink of choice — a nice French wine — and set my taste buds for a real cocktail. It was excellent, and within just a few sips, I knew I had the subject matter for my photo essay: I would search out the perfect Old Fashioned, the best the city had to offer, and photograph, with my cell phone, all I sampled. The choice of the Old Fashioned was fortuitous, because, I found, according to some reports, Louisville was the birthplace of this classic Bourbon drink, at the Pendennis Club. Now, that story might be as likely as Kaelin’s restaurant inventing the cheeseburger, but it gave me enough reason to focus on that drink — and its many, many permutations — as the theme for my photo-essay. I did my taste testing all around town, sampling drinks the bar tenders called Old Fashioneds, from Churchill Downs to Corbett’s and a great many places in between. To level the playing field, I always ordered the drink with Old Forester Bourbon. With

32 Summer 2013 www.foodanddine.com

the recent fad of “cocktail programs” at many bars, it came as no surprise that those who tout their “mixologists” seemed to be the establishments that excel in creatively tweaking the Old Fashioned concept in newfangled ways. All of the best versions used simple ingredients, avoided the excessive sweetness and overly fruited trap that’s too easy to fall into, and let the quality of the Bourbon come through clearly. All of the top five bartenders — except perhaps for Joy Perrine at Jack’s Lounge — use their own homemade bitters. When all was said and done, I gave my first prize to The St. Charles Exchange. MilkWood — a relatively new player on the bar scene — finished second in my tasting, with Jack’s Lounge third and the Silver Dollar and Winston’s rounding out my top five. All in the next tier, in my judgment, were great as well. I had excellent drinks at Corbett’s, Manny and Merle, Volare and the now St. Charles Exchange’s Old Fashioned closed Meat. It’s like judging any contest: On any given day you could have had a totally different set of winners and they would have been equally as impressive. As far as using the iPhone camera, I chose it because a guy snapping photos of cocktails with a big, professional digital SLR camera and exchangeable lenses would look pretty creepy in a bar. But, really, it doesn’t matter what kind of camera you use. A good photograph is all about composition, color, lighting and framing. Recently, a news photographer won a Pulitzer Prize for a picture he took on an iPhone. But, I had to laugh. As I snapped off dozens of cocktail photos in dimly lit restaurants and bars around the city with my iPhone, I am sure everyone thought that I was just another drinker documenting what he had to drink to help aid a fuzzy memory the next morning. And in some cases, perhaps I was. F&D

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www.facebook.com/foodanddine Summer 2013 33

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people and places profiles

BY GREG GAPSIS | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

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1765 Mellwood Avenue 502.618.1745

Old Friends Partner to Create a New Fine Dining Experience

W (left) Oysters on the half topped with habanero cilantro mignonette, vodka horseradish crème fraîche.

here Brownsboro Road ends its downhill run at Beargrass Creek sits a two-story farmhouse built 153 years ago when the surrounding area was bucolic farmland rather than today’s odd blend of residential and industrial. Now painted a distinctive (some say shocking) deep mustard yellow, it stands out from its surroundings, which is exactly the intention of the proprietors Ron Kayrouz and Terry Fereday, who intend the latest entry in Louisville’s fine dining scene, Bistro 1860, to be noticed. Brainchild of par tners Kayrouz and Fereday when the highly respected L&N Wine Bar and Bistro ended operations in 2012, Bistro 1860 features Chef Michael Crouch and Sous Chef Matthew Kelly plating distinctive food in a flexible portion approach only touched on by the recent popularity in tapas. “Most of our dishes can be ordered in portions that are small, medium, or entrée-sized,” said Kayrouz. “Heck, we even accommodated a couple tables at New Year’s that ordered bite-sized samples of every dish on our menu.” That flexible approach, along with getting Crouch to join the effort after years of honing his culinary vision at some of the city’s better known restaurants, were key. “After twenty years in the business, I didn’t want to do a full-service restaurant ever again, unless I did it with him,” said Kayrouz. www.facebook.com/foodanddine Summer 2013 35

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(above) The upstairs â&#x20AC;&#x153;Camel Loungeâ&#x20AC;? offers over-stuffed chairs, the perfect place to leisurely sip a cocktail. (right) Grilled rack of lamb with a Dijon lamb reduction, toasted panko, and celery root puree. (far right) Lobster hush puppy served with lemon hollandaise, blood orange gastrique and candied jalapeno. (opposite, top to bottom) owners Ron Kayrouz (right) and Terry L. Fereday; steak tartare with cornichon and served with toast points. 36 Summer 2013

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An Old Friendship Kayrouz worked with his father J.P. for decades at St. Matthew’s J.P. Kayrouz, a familyfriendly café on St. Matthew Ave. near Breckenridge and Shelbyville Road. He also provided the entire deli department service for multiple Paul’s Fruit Market outlets around town. Kayrouz met Crouch when he was a teenager working as a stock boy for the market. “He was a good kid and joked around a lot. We just clicked. One day he said, ‘I’m thinking about getting into this food thing,’ ” Kayrouz said. “I asked what he could do and he said a coconut crème pie. Well, I told him I already knew who made the best coconut crème pie in the world and it was my mother.” “A few days later he came in with this 10-inch tall coconut crème pie and it was amazing. I told him it was the best I had ever tasted, but that if he told anyone, I’d have to kill him. After that I’d tell him someday we’ll do a restaurant together. Over the years I’d visit him at his different jobs, so we kept in touch. And when this place became available, I went to see him.” Crouch said his interest in food began at a young age. “In middle school, I would sometimes set up at home ‘Michael’s Restaurant’ downstairs with candles on the table, flowers in a vase, etc. and host dinner,” Crouch said. After his experience with Kayrouz, Crouch took a job at Standard Country Club for a couple of years. While he took classes on and off in commercial art and graphic design, Crouch got even more serious about all matters culinary by going to work at Le Beaujolais, the quintessential French bistro on Douglas Loop run by chefs Patrick Peter and Agathe Heuxtrix. “I learned a ton with them — pastas made fresh, using stocks for everything, and matching proteins in creative ways,” Crouch said. “I worked up to chef de cuisine before they returned to France.” With this journeyman experience under his belt, Crouch moved on to Café Metro for nearly half a decade before taking the executive chef position at Bourbons Bistro. “It was a brilliant concept by Jason Brunner and John Morrison to feature Kentucky Bourbons and fine dining,” Crouch said. “We did some great things together and I learned a lot.” When asked for an example, he replied with a grin, “Like what are now my twelve favorite neat sipping Bourbons.”

Three Ways to Fun “We consider having a meal out to be more of an event than just dinner,” Crouch said. “People go out for fun, so we try to make our experience as fun as possible.” Summer 2013

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Bistro 1860 does this by offering a com fortable setting, top line beverage service, and a flexible approach to ordering that makes the entire menu accessible. The décor by Dennis Tapp is simple but sophisticated, eclectic but not overdone. “We wanted to have a welcoming feeling with a bit of class,” Kayrouz said. “We want people to be comfortable whether they come in coat and tie or blue jeans.” Inside, natural brick walls are complemented by black and white floor tiles, linen-topped black tables and chairs and a few colorful banquettes. Huge drapes of velvet brocade and modern striped window treatments counterbalance lighting fixtures that range from Deco to industrial. Upstairs, the “Camel Lounge” features a variety of small table seating with comfy chairs in two rooms dominated by large fireplace mantels. Bare brick is alternated with brightly painted walls punctuated by modern art and a variety of camel-themed collectibles that Kayrouz has been gathering for nearly 20 years. The bar service, developed by Kayrouz and head mixologist Martin Hall, is creative and alone worth a visit. There are 12 custom cocktails extending old standards like margaritas, old-fashioneds, and martinis into new territory. Beer aficionados will find a dozen well-selected ales, IPA’s, lagers, stouts and Belgian-style brews. And for oenophiles, the L&N’s old Cruvinet has been totally renovated to make 27 red and 21 whites available by the glass or bottle.

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Bistro 1860 also called in Sommelier John Johnson of the Wine Rack to suggest three different wine pairings for the 16 dishes featured on the current menu, which continues the spirit of exploration and enjoyment. “We’ve had an extraordinary response to the menu,” continued Crouch. “You can order a small portion and try another one. If you’re still hungry, order another one. Of course, we don’t turn tables as fast because people are having a good time.” Crouch also points out that the menu “steers away from the formality of a lot of restaurant menus where there is always a chicken dish and a salmon fillet as options. Here, instead of chicken, you can try quail, have rabbit, enjoy pork tacos, or try lobster hush puppies.” In keeping with Crouch’s preferences, and more educated palates, ingredients tend to be seasonal and sourced locally whenever possible. He said this will be emphasized when a kitchen garden comes in “out in the front of the restaurant, where we’ll have pole beans, heirloom tomatoes, herbs, etc. right outside the door.” Crouch is also collaborating with a Henr y County farmer to grow four rows of a variety of produce, timed to meet the restaurant’s continuing needs. “It’ll be great. We’ll be growing twenty different kinds of tomatoes, Asian melons, peppers, corn and squash and we’ll time plantings to make sure we extend the availability of what we’re interested in.” This emphasis on seasonal produce results in smart takes on basics. Salads and sides are great examples: watercress or arugula salads, grilled asparagus, braised Brussels sprouts, and combinations that can literally make you stop in your tracks and explore each forkful. “What my menu is all about is exploring flavors,” Crouch said. “Even though French is my background, I’m not restricted to it. I can do Italian, seafood, south of the border. Some people specialize in a cuisine. I specialize in food.” F&D

(opposite, top to bottom) 1860’s cruvinet holds 48 wines available by the glass; porcini mushroom flan with bacon brittle. (right, center) Duck confit strudel with caramelized onions, goat cheese, and shallot sherry cream sauce. (right) Chef Michael Crouch.

Summer 2013

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YEARS OF

I M A G E S

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The Photos That Made You Hungry A retrospective of Dan Dry’s award-winning images. You eat with your eyes first. That’s a guiding philosophy for John Carlos White, publisher of Food & Dining. Food should be beautiful — it should seduce with its appearance. When White launched the magazine ten years ago, “we decided early on we’d go against the grain,” he says, “and run many more images, and much larger images, than other magazines.” When Dan Dry agreed to come aboard as principal photographer, White was sure his vision could become a reality. The publication quickly became known for its photography. Awards followed.

The images on the following pages chronicle ten years of Food & Dining photography. The man behind the images is Dan Dry. A nationally known photographer who has worked for National Geographic, as well as for The Courier-Journal’s Pulitzer-winning photography staff from 1976 to 1982, Dry has amassed a treasurehouse of awards over the years. He received his profession’s highest honor when he was named the National Press Photographer of the Year by the National Press Photographers Association in 1981. He makes his living now as Sr. Vice President/Chief Visual Officer at Power Creative ad agency. But food photography is more than an ordinary sideline. Ask him if he’s a foodie and the response is instant: “Huge,” he says. He’s passionate about food and restaurants. He keeps up with food trends and blogs. He pores over food photography because it truly interests him. “I want my pictures to make you hungry.” Sometimes he gets the perfect image in only a few clicks, as with the carrots on page 48. “I love that shot,” Dry says. “I threw them on a table, took a couple of shots and knew I had it.” The image — a model of simplicity, lighting, composition and color — won several awards. He crops his pictures only while he’s composing them. He points to the multiple-award-winning image (page 49) of a farmer holding an armful of mushrooms. The shot works because of the colors of the mushrooms, the simplicity of the black background — and Dry’s creative decision to cut off the subject at chest level. With the Michael Paley image (page 48), Dry went conceptual, giving us not one Paley but two. “Here’s a guy,” Dry explains, “who’s basically seeing himself in the middle of the night because he was running two of the hottest restaurants in the city (Proof and Garage Bar). It’s two pictures I married, but when I shot them, I shot them with this in mind.” After a shoot, Dry spends hours editing, doing minor retouching, and selecting the best shots before he sends a single frame to White. White creates the layouts and sends them back to Dry, who tweaks the design, moving photographs or sometimes swapping a photo out entirely — small changes that make all the difference in the layout, White says. “Dan’s got such a talented eye and sense of visual design,” White adds. “Working with him is a real joy.” Their collaborative style, and the magazine that results, have evolved. “It’s taken ten years to get here,” Dry says, “but I’m really proud of where we are.” And passionate about it. Dry loves his day job at the ad agency. But “I absolutely can’t wait till we shoot the next issue of Food & Dining.”

▲

Dry shoots on location, not in a studio, and often incor porates elements of the location into his shots. “I’m looking for something that’s going to help the photo be a big, bold, striking image,” he says. Sometimes that means putting a plate of food on top of a painting, a chalkboard, even the floor, to take advantage of a great pattern or interesting shadows. He spends time shooting from different angles, playing with light, playing with focal length. In a given session he’ll shoot hundreds of photos. Dry’s gear is simple. He uses one camera, a Nikon D800, and one lens, an f2.8 24-70 mm. He carries a small roller bag containing light stands, a power pack, a softbox and other lights, a Flexfill reflector, and a piece of black velvet to use as a backdrop. But like a chef with a good set of pots and pans, Dry’s photographs succeed because of his skills, not his gear. That’s Dry’s own analogy. He’s a master, and he bristles at the idea that the magic might lie in the equipment — or in anything, for that matter, but his own prodigious skills. Food is notoriously difficult to shoot, partly because it’s transient. Even the most gorgeous dish will begin to wilt or cool, melt or fade in a matter of minutes. And some food is just not camera-friendly. Meat can photograph gray and unappetizing, so Dry will cut it, add colorful sides, arrange it just so on the plate, and light it correctly. Dry doesn’t go for styling tricks that render food inedible — no glue standing in for milk — though a dish might be undercooked in order to photograph better, or cooked without spices, since seasonings don’t show. “We sample 90 percent of what we shoot,” Dry says. “I may put a little oil on it and may put my hands all over it,” but other than that, dig in.

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(top, L-R) Seviche – Spring 2004; Koreana – Winter 2004-05 (left) Jarfi’s Bistro – Winter 2004-05; (above) Burgers Market – Fall 2003 (below) Wagner’s Pharmacy – Winter 2003-04

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(top, L-R) English Grill’s Hot Brown – Spring 2005; Sullivan University – Spring 2004; Sapporo’s Chef Kase Nobuo – Fall 2003 (center, L-R) Maido – Summer 2004; Felice Vineyards – Fall 2004; Ethnic Markets Feature – Winter 2004-05 (right) Lilly’s Chef Kathy Cary – Fall 2004 (bottom, L-R) Sullivan University – Spring 2004; English Grill’s Chef Joe Castro – Spring 2005

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(above) Sullivan University – Spring 2005; (left) Winston’s – Spring 2005 (below) Desserts by Helen – Winter 2005-06 (bottom, L-R) Bistro La Relais – Fall 2005; Corbet’s – Spring 2008

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(top, L-R) Lotsa Pasta – Spring 05; Blue Dog Bakery – Winter 2005-06; Sullivan University – Summer 2005 (next row, L-R) Equus chefs (L-R) Dan Thomas, Chris Howerton and Dean Corbett – Summer 2006; Oakroom’s Bloody Mary – Spring 2007 (above) 610 Magnolia – Summer 2007 (left, top to bottom) Road Trip Chicago – Winter 2007-08; Creation Gardens – Spring 2006 (right) 211 Clover Lane – Spring 2007

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(top, L-R) Cellar Door Chocolates’ Erika ChavezGraziano – Spring 2010; Churchill Downs Chef Jo-Jo Doyle – Winter 2009; DeLa Torre’s – Summer 2010 (left) Vincenzo’s – Winter 2009; (right) Caffe Classico’s Yulitze Guerra – Summer 2010 (bottom, L-R) Volare – Summer 2008; La Rosita – Winter 2008-09

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(above left, top to bottom) Proof – Fall 2010; Sullivan University – Spring 2011; Easy Entertaining: Manhattan – Summer 2010; Easy Entertaining: Thanksgiving – Winter 2009 (top right) Lilly’s – Winter 2008-09 (left) Mr. Z’s Kitchen – Fall 2008 (right) F&D Kitchen – Fall 2009

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(top, L-R) Kentucky Bison’s Steve Wilson – Fall 2010; Volare – Winter 2010 (above) Harvest – Fall 2011; (left) Eddie Merlot’s – Fall 2011 (below) Garage Bar Chef Michael Paley – Winter 2011

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(left side, top to bottom) F&D Kitchen’s Jamaican Jerk Chicken – Summer 2010; Eiderdown – Summer 2011; Taco Punk – Fall 2011; Sheltowee Farm – Winter 2011 (right side, top to bottom) Jeff Ruby’s – Summer 2010; Chef Edward Lee – Spring 2011; Proof – Fall 2010 (center) 732 Social – Fall 2010 (below) Maker’s Mark Lounge – Spring 2011

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(top row, L-R from opposite page) Varanese – Fall 2012; Bourbon Trail – Fall 2012; Silver Dollar – Summer 2012; Anchorage Café – Summer 2012. (center row, L-R) Easy Entertaining: Soup – Winter 2011; St. Charles Exchange – Spring 2013; Ham Belt Feature – Winter 2012. (bottom row, L-R from opposite page) Bourbon Trail – Fall 2012; Volare Chef Josh Moore – Winter 2012; Feast BBQ’s Ryan Rogers (masked) and Chip Hartley – Spring 2013; NuLu Redux – Winter 2012.

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The new New Albany In historic New Albany, where you can park, stroll, and enjoy, there’s a renaissance happening. New restaurants and shops, public art and history, and a Greenway along the river, beckon you to relax and recreate in an historic setting on the Ohio River. Come try our acclaimed eateries, award-winning art museum, winery, microbrewery, and recreational opportunities, all delivered on a human scale. Discover the future in an historic setting. Come explore New Albany’s Renaissance on the River. — ADVERTISEMENT—

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54-57_Guide Index_sum13_Layout 1 4/23/13 12:09 PM Page 54

dining guide Cuisine Style African..............................79 Asian/Chinese...................80 Asian/Filipino ....................81 Asian/Japanese ................81 Asian/Korean ....................82 Asian/Mongolian ...............82 Asian/Thai ........................82 Asian/Vietnamese .............83 Bar & Grill .........................77 Barbecue ..........................77 Bistro/Contemporary. ........62 Cafés ...............................66

Cafeterias .........................72 Cajun/Creole.....................86 Caribbean/Cuban/Latin .....86 Casual Dining ...................70 Coffee/Tea House..............88 Desserts/Bakery ...............89 Entertainment Dining ........72 European/Bosnian.............83 European/French ..............83 European/German.............83 European/Irish ..................84 European/Italian................84 European/Spanish.............84

Fine Dining .......................58 Home Style/Southern ........72 Indian ...............................85 Mexican............................88 Microbreweries.................79 Middle Eastern..................86 Pizza.................................72 Sandwich/Deli ..................76 Seafood ............................67 Southwest/Tex Mex...........88 Steakhouse.......................67 Upscale Casual .................61

Area Maps begin on page 90 Alphabetical Index RESTAURANT

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2 Dips & A Shake 211 Clover Lane 30 Red Sports Saloon 321 Deli 60 West Bistro 610 Magnolia A Nice Restaurant A Taste of China Achille’s Pizza Addis Grill Adobo Mexican Restaurant Adrienne & Co. Bakery Café Adrienne’s Italian Against The Grain Brewery Al Nuur Al Watan Alley Cat Café Amici Amshoff’s Fish Inn Again Anchorage Café Angilo’s Pizza Angio’s Restaurant Annie Cafe Annie May’s Sweets Café Annie’s Pizza Ann’s by the River Another Place Anselmo’s Italian Bistro Apocalypse Brew Works Applebee’s Arata Sushi Arni’s Pizza Arno’s Pizza Aroma Café Asahi Japanese Asian Buffet Asian Moon Asiatique Aspen Creek Restaurant Atrium Café August Moon Austin’s BD’s Mongolian Grill B3Q BBQ Baby D’s Bagels & Deli Backyard Burger The Bakery Bamboo House Banh Mi Hero Bank Street Brewhouse Barbara Lee’s Kitchen The Bard’s Town Basa Modern Vietnamese Baxter Station Baxter’s 942 Bar & Grill Bazos Mexican Grill Bean Street Coffee Co. Bearno’s Pizza Beef O’Brady’s 54 Summer 2013 www.foodanddine.com

RESTAURANTS LISTED ALPHABETICALLY, FOLLOWED BY THE PAGE NUMBER OF ITS REVIEW, THE CUISINE STYLE, AND THE CORRESPONDING MAP NUMBER(S). [ ] DENOTES UNMAPPED MULTIPLE LOCATIONS. MAP #

89 Desserts/Bakery 1 58 Fine Dining 3 77 Bar & Grill 11 74 Sandwich/Deli 1 58 Upscale Casual 3 58 Fine Dining 13 68 Casual Dining 14, 16 80 Asian/Chinese 1 72 Pizza 16 79 African 1 86 Mexican 11 89 Desserts/Bakery 16 84 European/Italian 16 79 Microbreweries 1 79 African 13 85 Middle Eastern 4 64 Cafés 5 84 European/Italian 13 67 Seafood 11 64 Cafés 5 72 Pizza 13 72 Pizza 4 82 Asian/Vietnamese 13 89 Desserts/Bakery 3 72 Pizza 1, 12 72 Cafeterias 16 75 Sandwich/Deli 1 84 European/Italian 2 79 Microbreweries 2 68 Casual Dining [6] 81 Asian/Japanese 10 72 Pizza 14 72 Pizza 4 64 Cafés 14 81 Asian/Japanese 3 80 Asian/Chinese 4, 14 80 Asian/Chinese 4, 6 59 Upscale Casual 2 68 Casual Dining 11 62 Bistro/Contemporary 5 80 Asian/Chinese 2 59 Upscale Casual 7 82 Asian/Mongolian 6 76 Barbecue 14 75 Sandwich/Deli 2 75 Sandwich/Deli 6 89 Desserts/Bakery 4 80 Asian/Chinese 13 82 Asian/Vietnamese 2 79 Microbreweries 14 70 Home Style/Southern 2 72 Entertainment Dining 2 59 Upscale Casual 2 62 Bistro/Contemporary 2 77 Bar & Grill 2 86 Mexican 3, 6 88 Coffee/Tea House 14 72 Pizza [12] 77 Bar & Grill 5, 12, 13, 14, 15

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Beijing Grill & Sushi Bar 81 Asian/Japanese 14 Bela’s Café 79 African 13 Bendoya Sushi Bar 81 Asian/Japanese 1 Big Al’s Beeritaville 77 Bar & Grill 2 Big Momma’s Soul Kitchen 70 Home Style/Southern 1 Bistro 1860 Wine Bar 62 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Bistro 301 62 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Bistro 42 84 European/Italian 10 Bistro Le Relais 83 European/French 4 The Bistro 72 Cafeterias 3 BJ’s Restaurant & Brewhouse 68 Casual Dining 5 Blackstone Grille 59 Upscale Casual 10 The Blind Pig 62 Bistro/Contemporary 2 BLU Mediterranean Grille 59 Upscale Casual 1 Blue Dog Bakery 64 Cafés 2 Blue Horse Café 68 Casual Dining 13 Bluegrass BBQ 76 Barbecue 3 Bluegrass Brewing Co. 79 Microbreweries 1, 3 Bluegrass Burgers 68 Casual Dining 3 Bluegrass Café 64 Cafés 2 Boardwalk Fresh Burgers 75 Sandwich/Deli 16 Bombay Grill 85 Indian 5 Bonefish Grill 67 Seafood 5 Bonnie & Clyde’s Pizza 73 Pizza 12 Boombozz Famous Pizza 73 Pizza 3 Boombozz Pizza Bistro 73 Pizza 6 Boombozz Pizza & Taphouse 73 Pizza 2, 5 Boomer’s Café 64 Cafés 1 Bootleg Barbecue Co. 76 Barbecue 11, 13 Borromeo’s Pizza 73 Pizza 13 Bosna-Mak 83 European/Bosnian 4 Bourbons Bistro 62 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Brandon’s BBQ & Pizza 76 Barbecue 5 Bravo! 59 Upscale Casual 3 Breadworks 89 Desserts/Bakery 2, 5, 7 The Brewery 77 Bar & Grill 2 Brian’s Deli 75 Sandwich/Deli 1 Brickhouse Tavern & Tap 68 Casual Dining 6 Bristol Bar & Grille 59 Upscale Casual 1,2,5,10,13,16 Brix Wine Bar 62 Bistro/Contemporary 8 Brownie’s Grille & Bar 77 Bar & Grill 5 Bruegger’s Bagels 75 Sandwich/Deli 3 Buca Di Beppo 84 European/Italian 6 Buckhead Mountain Grill 68 Casual Dining 4, 16 Buck’s 58 Fine Dining 13 Bud’s Tavern & Barbecue 77 Bar & Grill 12 Buffalo Wild Wings 77 Bar & Grill 2,3,5,6,8,12,15 Bungalow Joe’s 77 Bar & Grill 11 Bunz Restaurant 68 Casual Dining 2 Burger Boy 75 Sandwich/Deli 13 Burning Bush Grille 85 Middle Eastern 10 Butcher’s Best 75 Sandwich/Deli 10 Café 360 85 Middle Eastern 2 Café Aroma 86 Middle Eastern 2 Café At Main Street 65 Cafés 6 Café Fraiche 65 Cafés 7 Café Lou Lou 62 Bistro/Contemporary 2,3 Café Magnolia 68 Casual Dining 1 Café Mimosa 82 Asian/Vietnamese 2

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Café Montagu Café Thuy Van Caffe Classico Cake Flour California Pizza Kitchen Captain’s Quarters Cardinal Hall of Fame Café Carrabba’s Italian Grille Cast Iron Steakhouse Cat Box Deli Cattleman’s Roadhouse Caviar Japanese Restaurant Cellar Door Chocolates Champions Grill Champions Sports Bar Champp’s Americana Charim Korean Restaurant Charlestown Pizza Co. Charlestown Train Station Charr’d Bourbon Kitchen Check’s Café Cheddar Box Café Cheddar’s Casual Café Cheer King Star The Cheesecake Factory Cheezy’s Pizza Chef Maria’s Greek Deli Chez Seneba African The Chicken House Chicken King Chili’s China 1 China Buffet China Café China Castle China Garden China Inn China King China Taste Chinese Chef Chinese Express Chipotle Mexican Grill Chocolate Martini Bar Choi’s Asian Food Market Chong Garden Chopshop Salads Chopsticks Chopsticks House Chung King Chuy’s City Café Clark’s Lyndon Village Pub Clarksville Seafood Clifton’s Pizza Clucker’s Wings Coach Lamp Coals Artisan Pizza Coffee Crossing Come Back Inn The Comfy Cow Copper Cupcake Corbett’s ‘an American place’ Corner Café Cottage Café Cottage Inn Crave Café & Catering Cravings a la Carte Creekside Outpost & Café Cricket’s Café Crystal Chinese Cuban Flavor Cubana Restaurant Culver’s Cumberland Brews Cunningham’s The Cupcake Shoppe D’Nalley’s Restaurant Dakshin Indian Restaurant DaLat’s Gateaux & Bakery Dancing Sushi Danish Express Pastries Danny Mac’s Pasta & Pizza Dave & Peg’s Copper Kettle Day’s Espresso De La Torre’s Decca Deckers Grilled Sandwiches Del Frisco’s Derby Café Derby City BBQ Derby City Roadhouse Derby Dinner Playhouse Desserts By Helen Devino’s Diamond Pub & Billiards Difabio’s Casapela DiOrio’s Pizza & Pub Dish On Market Ditto’s Grill Dizzy Whizz Drive-In Doc Crow’s Dooley’s Bagels Double Dragon Double Dragon II Double Dragon 9 Down One Bourbon Bar DP UpDogs Dragon King’s Daughter Drake’s Dre’Lynn’s Soul Food Dunkin’ Donuts DuValle Grub N Scrub

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65 Cafés 13 82 Asian/Vietnamese 13 62 Bistro/Contemporary 2 89 Desserts/Bakery 1 73 Pizza 5 68 Casual Dining 10 68 Casual Dining 13 84 European/Italian 5 67 Steakhouse 10, 16 75 Sandwich/Deli 1 67 Steakhouse 6, 13 59 Upscale Casual 1 89 Desserts/Bakery 1 68 Casual Dining 16 77 Bar & Grill 1 77 Bar & Grill 3 82 Asian/Korean 3 73 Pizza 16 67 Seafood 16 59 Upscale Casual 6 70 Home Style/Southern 1 65 Cafés 3 68 Casual Dining 8, 13, 15 80 Asian/Chinese 1 59 Upscale Casual 3 73 Pizza 16 75 Cafés 3 80 African 13 71 Home Style/Southern 14 71 Home Style/Southern 1 68 Casual Dining 4, 5, 8, 13 80 Asian/Chinese 3 80 Asian/Chinese 15 80 Asian/Chinese 13 80 Asian/Chinese 12 80 Asian/Chinese 13 80 Asian/Chinese 13 80 Asian/Chinese 6 80 Asian/Chinese 16 80 Asian/Chinese 13 80 Asian/Chinese 12 87 Mexican 1 69 Casual Dining 5 78 Asian/Japanese 5 80 Asian/Chinese 12 69 Casual Dining 1, 3 80 Asian/Chinese 1 80 Asian/Chinese 1 80 Asian/Chinese 1 88 Southwest/Tex Mex 3,15 65 Cafés 1 77 Bar & Grill 5 67 Seafood 15 73 Pizza 2 77 Bar & Grill 13, 14, 16 69 Casual Dining 1 73 Pizza 3 88 Coffee/Tea House 14 84 European/Italian 1, 16 89 Desserts/Bakery 2,5,13 89 Desserts/Bakery 8 58 Fine Dining 8 60 Upscale Casual 5 71 Home Style/Southern 5 71 Home Style/Southern 13 65 Cafés 2 72 Cafeterias 1 65 Cafés 14 65 Cafés 15 80 Asian/Chinese 1 86 Caribbean/Cuban/Latin 11 86 Caribbean/Cuban/Latin 2 69 Casual Dining 6 79 Microbreweries 2 69 Casual Dining 1, 10 89 Desserts/Bakery 3 71 Home Style/Southern 1 85 Indian 11 89 Desserts/Bakery 13 81 Asian/Japanese 8 75 Sandwich/Deli 3 73 Pizza 13 71 Home Style/Southern 5 88 Coffee/Tea House 2 84 European/Spanish 2 60 Upscale Casual 1 69 Casual Dining 6 67 Steakhouse 3 65 Cafés 13 76 Barbecue 13 62 Bistro/Contemporary 2 72 Entertainment Dining 16 89 Desserts/Bakery 2 75 Sandwich/Deli 1 77 Bar & Grill 2, 3 84 European/Italian 2 73 Pizza 2, 3 63 Bistro/Contemporary 1 63 Bistro/Contemporary 2 75 Sandwich/Deli 1 60 Upscale Casual 1 75 Sandwich/Deli 7 80 Asian/Chinese 1, 2 80 Asian/Chinese 8, 11, 12, 13 80 Asian/Chinese 6 77 Bar & Grill 1 75 Sandwich/Deli 14 81 Asian/Japanese 2, 14 77 Bar & Grill 3, 8 71 Home Style/Southern 13 89 Desserts/Bakery 2 76 Barbecue 13

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Eagle Lake & Restaurant 67 Seafood 12 Earth Friends Café 65 Cafés 1, 14 Eastern House 80 Asian/Chinese 12 Eddie Merlot’s 67 Steakhouse 1 Eggroll Machine 80 Asian/Chinese 2 Eiderdown 83 European/German 13 Einstein Brothers Bagels 75 Sandwich/Deli 1 El Burrito de Oro 87 Mexican 15 El Caporal 87 Mexican 4, 6, 15 El Mariachi 87 Mexican 5 El Marlin Seafood 87 Mexican 6 El Molcajete 87 Mexican 13 El Mundo 87 Mexican 2 El Nopal 87 Mexican [16] El Ranchero 87 Mexican 4 El Rincon Cuban Restaurant 86 Caribbean/Cuban/Latin 13 El Sombrero 87 Mexican 16 El Tarasco 87 Mexican 3, 5, 6, 13 El Tenampa Bar & Grill 87 Caribbean/Cuban/Latin 12 El Torazo 87 Mexican 6 El Torito de Jalisco 87 Mexican 13 El Toro Cantina & Grill 87 Mexican 5 Emma Lou’s Café 65 Cafés 2 Emperor of China 80 Asian/Chinese 7 Empress of China 80 Asian/Chinese 4 The English Grill 58 Fine Dining 1 Equus 60 Upscale Casual 3 Erika’s German Restaurant 84 European/German 6 Ermin’s Bakery & Café 65 Cafés 1 Ernesto’s 87 Mexican 6 Exchange Pub + Kitchen 63 Bistro/Contemporary 14 Expression Of You 88 Coffee/Tea House 2 The Falafel House 85 Middle Eastern 2 Famous Dave’s Bar-B-Que 76 Barbecue 6, 15 Famous Mike’s Steak & Lemonade 69 Casual Dining 13 Fat Daddy’s Pizza 73 Pizza 13 Fat Jimmy’s 73 Pizza 5 FeastBBQ 76 Barbecue 14 The Feed Bag 75 Sandwich/Deli 3 Fiesta Time Mexican Grill 87 Mexican 8, 11 Fire Fresh Bar B Q 77 Barbecue 1, 12 Firehouse Subs 75 Sandwich/Deli 5 First Wok 80 Asian/Chinese 12 The Fish House 67 Seafood 2, 5 The Fishery 67 Seafood 3, 5 The Fishery Station 67 Seafood 11 Fish-Fry House 67 Seafood 2 Five Guys Burgers & Fries 69 Casual Dining 8, 14 Flabby’s Schnitzelburg 69 Casual Dining 13 Flanagans Ale House 78 Bar & Grill 2 Food 4 Ur Soul 71 Home Style/Southern 1 Forty Acres & A Mule 71 Home Style/Southern 13 Four King’s Café 78 Bar & Grill 4 Four Pegs Beer Lounge 63 Bistro/Contemporary 13 Franco’s Restaurant 71 Home Style/Southern 12 Frankfort Ave. Beer Depot 77 Barbecue 3 Frascelli’s N.Y. Deli & Pizza 75 Sandwich/Deli 8 Frolio’s Pizza 73 Pizza 13 Frontier Diner 71 Home Style/Southern 12 The Fudgery 89 Desserts/Bakery 1 Fuji Asian Bistro 81 Asian/Japanese 12 Fuji Japanese Steakhouse 81 Asian/Japanese 5, 8 Funmi’s African Restaurant 80 African 4 FX Pizza 73 Pizza 14 Game 69 Casual Dining 2 Garage Bar 69 Casual Dining 1 Gary’s On Spring 60 Upscale Casual 2 Gasthaus 84 European/German 7 Gavi’s Restaurant 69 Casual Dining 1 Gelato Gilberto 89 Desserts/Bakery 8 Genghis Grill 82 Asian/Mongolian 8 Gerstle’s Place 78 Bar & Grill 3 Ghyslain 83 European/French 1, 8 Gigi’s Cupcakes 89 Desserts/Bakery 6 Golden Buddha 80 Asian/Chinese 13 Golden Corral 71 Home Style/Southern 4,13,15 Golden Palace 80 Asian/Chinese 13 Golden Star Chinese 80 Asian/Chinese 13 Golden Wall 80 Asian/Chinese 13 Goose Creek Diner 69 Casual Dining 8 Gordon Biersch Brewery 79 Microbreweries 1 Grady’s Burgers & Wings 69 Casual Dining 13 Granville Inn 78 Bar & Grill 13 Grape Leaf 85 Middle Eastern 2 Great American Grill 78 Bar & Grill 13 Great Harvest Bread Co. 89 Desserts/Bakery 5 Great Life Café 75 Sandwich/Deli 6, 8, 15 Great Wall 80 Asian/Chinese 2 Great Wok 80 Asian/Chinese 13 Green Leaf Vegetarian 69 Casual Dining 13 Green Room Coffee 88 Coffee/Tea House 6 Guaca-Mole 87 Mexican 5 Habana Blues Tapas 86 Caribbean/Cuban/Latin 14 Hall’s Cafeteria 72 Cafeterias 2 Hammerheads 63 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Hanabi Japanese Restaurant 81 Asian/Japanese 10 Happy China 80 Asian/Chinese 6 Happy Dragon 80 Asian/Chinese 6 Hard Rock Café 63 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Harley’s Hardwoodz BBQ 77 Barbecue 16 Harvest 60 Upscale Casual 1 Havana Rumba 86 Caribbean/Cuban/Latin 3,5 Havana Rumba Express 86 Caribbean/Cuban/Latin 2 Hawksview Gallery 60 Upscale Casual 13 Hazelwood Restaurant 71 Home Style/Southern 12 Heart & Soy 81 Asian/Japanese 2 Heine Brothers Coffee 88 Coffee/Tea House [13] Heitzman Bakery & Deli 89 Desserts/Bakery 1, 5 Henry’s Place 60 Upscale Casual 7 Hibachi Sushi Buffet 80 Asian/Chinese 11 Hickory House BBQ 77 Barbecue 13 Highland Coffee Co. 88 Coffee/Tea House 2 www.facebook.com/foodanddine Summer 2013 55

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Highland Morning Highlands Taproom Grill Hiko A Mon Sushi Bar Hill Street Fish Fry Hilltop Tavern Hitching Post Inn Hobknobb Roasting Co. Holy Grale Home Run Burgers & Fries Homemade Pie Kitchen Hometown Buffet Hometown Pizza Honey Creme Donut Shop Honeybaked Café Hong Kong Chinese Hong Kong Fast Food Hoops Grill and Sports Bar Hooters Howl at the Moon Hunan Wok Ichiban Samurai IHOP Incredible Dave’s Indi’s Restaurant The International Mall Iries Caribbean Café The Irish Exit The Irish Rover Iroquois Pizza J. Alexander’s J. Graham’s Café J. Gumbo’s J. Harrods Jack Binion’s Steakhouse Jack Fry’s Jack’s Lounge Jackson’s Seafood Jade Palace Jamba Juice Jane’s Cafeteria Jasmin Bakery Jasmine Jason’s Deli Java Brewing Co. Jazzyblu Jeff Ruby’s Steakhouse Jersey’s Café Jersey Mike’s Subs Jimmy John’s Sub Shop Joe & Kathy’s Place Joe Huber Restaurant Joe’s Crab Shack Joe’s O.K. Bayou Joe’s Older Than Dirt John O’Bryan’s Tavern Johnny Brusco’s Pizza Johnny V’s JR’s Pub Jucy’s Smokehouse Jumbo Buffet Kaelin’s Coffeehouse Kailana Sushi Kalisimbi Bar & Grill Kansai Japanese Rest. Karem’s Kashmir Indian Kayrouz Café Kenna’s Korner Kern’s Korner Khalil’s King Wok Kingfish King’s Coffee King’s Fried Chicken Kobe Japanese Steak Koreana II KT’s Kum’s Kafe La Bamba La Bocca La Bocca Pizzeria La Bodega La Carreta La Colombiana La Coop: Bistro à Vins La Gallo Rosso Bistro La Hacienda Guadalajara La Pasadita La Popular La Que La Rosita Taqueria La Sierra Lancaster’s Cafeteria Las Gorditas Lee’s Korean Legend’s Lemongrass Café Lenny’s Sub Shop The Lighthouse Lil’ Cheezers Lilly’s Limestone Ling Ling Little Caesar’s Pizza Little India Café Little Jerusalem Liu’s Garden Logan’s Roadhouse Lolitas Tacos Inc. Longhorn Steakhouse Lonnie’s Taste Of Chicago Los Aztecas 56 Summer 2013 www.foodanddine.com

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66 Cafés 2 78 Bar & Grill 2 81 Asian/Japanese 5 67 Seafood 13 78 Bar & Grill 2 78 Bar & Grill 11 88 Coffee/Tea House 14 63 Bistro/Contemporary 2 69 Casual Dining 3, 5, 6, 13 89 Desserts [9] 71 Home Style/Southern 6,3 73 Pizza 7 89 Desserts/Bakery 14 75 Sandwich/Deli 3, 11, 14 80 Asian/Chinese 14 80 Asian/Chinese 13 78 Bar & Grill 13 69 Casual Dining 3,13,12,15,16 72 Entertainment Dining 1 80 Asian/Chinese 11 81 Asian/Japanese 6 69 Casual Dining 6, 15 72 Entertainment Dining 8 71 Home Style/Southern 1,3,13,16 84 European/Italian 1 86 Caribbean/Cuban/Latin 16 84 European/Irish 14 84 European/Irish 2, 7 73 Pizza 13 60 Upscale Casual 3 66 Cafés 1 86 Cajun/Creole 1,2,5,6 60 Upscale Casual 10 58 Fine Dining 14 58 Fine Dining 2 63 Bistro/Contemporary 3 67 Seafood 14 80 Asian/Chinese 5 66 Cafés 1 72 Cafeterias 4 89 Desserts/Bakery 4 80 Asian/Chinese 5 75 Sandwich/Deli 3, 5 88 Coffee/Tea House 2,8,10 63 Bistro/Contemporary 1 67 Steakhouse 1 78 Bar & Grill 15 75 Sandwich/Deli 5, 6, 8 75 Sandwich/Deli [9] 69 Casual Dining 12 72 Entertainment Dining 14 67 Seafood 1 86 Cajun/Creole 6 69 Casual Dining 5 78 Bar & Grill 12 73 Pizza 8 73 Pizza 6 78 Bar & Grill 14 77 Barbecue 5 80 Asian/Chinese 6 88 Coffee/Tea House 2 81 Asian/Japanese 11 80 African 13 81 Asian/Japanese 6, 15 69 Casual Dining 8 85 Indian 2 66 Cafés 3 73 Pizza 8 69 Casual Dining 2 78 Bar & Grill 12 80 Asian/Chinese 3 67 Seafood 6, 7, 16 88 Coffee/Tea House 14 72 Home Style/Southern 13 81 Asian/Japanese 16 82 Asian/Korean 13 60 Upscale Casual 2 72 Home Style/Southern 13 87 Mexican 2 84 European/Italian 14 73 Pizza 14 84 European/Spanish 2 87 Mexican 13 86 Caribbean/Cuban/Latin 8 83 European/French 1 84 European/Italian 2 87 Mexican 13 87 Mexican 16 87 Mexican 13 82 Asian/Vietnamese 2 87 Mexican 5, 13, 15 87 Mexican 11 72 Cafeterias 14 87 Mexican 11 82 Asian/Korean 13 69 Casual Dining 14 82 Asian/Vietnamese 5 75 Sandwich/Deli 4 78 Bar & Grill 16 76 Sandwich/Deli 2 58 Fine Dining 2 58 Fine Dining 5 80 Asian/Chinese 5 73 Pizza 5, 6, 8, 11, 13, 14, 16 85 Indian 4 85 Middle Eastern 13 80 Asian/Chinese 5 67 Steakhouse 3, 6, 12, 15 87 Mexican 13 67 Steakhouse 6, 8, 13, 15 76 Sandwich/Deli 2, 13 87 Mexican 1, 5, 10

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Los Mezcales 87 Mexican 13 Lotsa Pasta 76 Sandwich/Deli 3 Loui Loui’s Detroit Pizza 73 Pizza 6 Louis Le Francais 83 European/French 14 Louisville Pizza Co. 73 Pizza 6 Louisville Tea Co. 88 Coffee/Tea House 5 Luigi’s 73 Pizza 1 Ma Zerellas 73 Pizza 15 Maa Sha Allah 80 African 4 Main Eatery 76 Sandwich/Deli 1 Main Street Café 76 Sandwich/Deli 1 Mai’s Thai Restaurant 82 Asian/Thai 16 Majid’s St. Matthews 63 Bistro/Contemporary 3 Maker’s Mark Lounge 61 Upscale Casual 1 Manhattan Grill 70 Casual Dining 1 Manny & Merle 64 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Marketplace Restaurant 64 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Mark’s Feed Store 77 Barbecue 2, 5, 11, 12, 14 Marlyce’s Place 89 Desserts/Bakery 15 Martini Italian Bistro 84 European/Italian 8 Masa Japanese 81 Asian/Japanese 5 Mayan Café 87 Mexican 1 McAlister’s Deli 76 Sandwich/Deli [9] Mellow Mushroom 73 Pizza 3, 5 The Melting Pot 61 Upscale Casual 6 Meridian Café 66 Cafés 3 Mexican Fiesta 88 Mexican 4 Mexico Tipico 88 Mexican 12 Mexico Viejo 88 Mexican 2 Mikato Japanese Steakhouse 81 Asian/Japanese 3 Mike Linnig’s 67 Seafood 12 Mike’s Tavern 78 Bar & Grill 14 MilkWood 58 Fine Dining 1 Mimi’s Café 70 Casual Dining 5 Ming’s Buffet 80 Asian/Chinese 2 Mirage Mediterranean Grill 85 Middle Eastern 13 Miss C’s Kitchen & Pantry 72 Home Style/Southern 1,2 Mitchell’s Fish Market 67 Seafood 8 Moe’s Southwest Grill 88 Southwest/Tex Mex 3,6,8,11,15 Mojito Tapas Restaurant 84 European/Spanish 7 Molly Malone’s 84 European/Irish 2, 3 Momma’s Mustard, Pickles & BBQ 77 Barbecue 3 The Monkey Wrench 70 Casual Dining 2 More Shenanigan’s 84 European/Irish 4 Morris Deli & Catering 76 Sandwich/Deli 1, 2 Morton’s of Chicago 68 Steakhouse 1 Mr. Gattis 73 Pizza 5, 12, 13, 15 Mrs. Potter’s Coffee 88 Coffee/Tea House 1 Mt. Fuji 81 Asian/Japanese 13 Mucho Queso Pizzeria 74 Pizza 2 Mulligan’s Pub and Grill 70 Casual Dining 2 Mussel & Burger Bar 64 Bistro/Contemporary 6 My Favorite Muffin 89 Desserts/Bakery 5 My Old KY Dinner Train 72 Entertainment Dining 13 NamNam Café 82 Asian/Vietnamese 3 Nana’s Country Kitchen 72 Home Style/Southern 12 Nancy’s Bagel Box 76 Sandwich/Deli 1 Nancy’s Bagel Grounds 76 Sandwich/Deli 2 Napa River Grill 61 Upscale Casual 5 Neil & Patty’s Fireside Grill 70 Casual Dining 14 New Albanian Brewing Co. 74 Pizza 14 New Albany Roadhouse 70 Casual Dining 14 New China 80 Asian/Chinese 5 New Direction Bar & Grill 78 Bar & Grill 8 Nonnie’s Kitchen 66 Cafés 5 Nord’s Bakery 89 Desserts/Bakery 13 North End Café 64 Bistro/Contemporary 2 O’Charley’s 70 Casual Dining 3,6,8,13,12,15 O’Dolly’s 72 Home Style/Southern 13 O’Shea’s Irish Pub 84 European/Irish 2 The Oakroom 58 Fine Dining 1 Oasis Sushi & Soul 82 Asian/Japanese 13 Oishii Sushi 82 Asian/Japanese 4 Old 502 Winery 64 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Old Chicago Pasta & Pizza 74 Pizza 6, 8 Old Spaghetti Factory 84 European/Italian 1 Old Stone Inn 61 Upscale Casual 5 Ole Hickory Pit BBQ 77 Barbecue 11 O-Line Sports Grill 78 Bar & Grill 8 The Olive Garden 84 European/Italian 6,8,11,15 Ollie’s Trolley 76 Sandwich/Deli 1 Onion Restaurant & Tea House 80 Asian/Chinese 14 Orange Clover Kitchen 66 Cafés 16 Oriental House 80 Asian/Chinese 3 Oriental Star 80 Asian/Chinese 13 Original Impellizzeri’s 74 Pizza 1, 2, 10 Osaka Sushi Bar 82 Asian/Japanese 1, 2 Otto’s Café 70 Casual Dining 1 Outback Steakhouse 68 Steakhouse 3,8,11,13,15 P. F. Chang’s China Bistro 61 Upscale Casual 5 Palermo Viejo 86 Caribbean/Cuban/Latin 2 Panda Chinese 80 Asian/Chinese 10 Panda Express 80 Asian/Chinese 15 Panera Bread Co. 76 Sandwich/Deli [9] Papa John’s 74 Pizza [30] Papa Murphy’s Pizza 74 Pizza 3,4,5,8,11,12,14,15,16 Papalino’s NY Pizzeria 74 Pizza 2 Passtime Fish House 67 Seafood 6 Patrick O’Shea’s 84 European/Irish 1 Pat’s Steak House 68 Steakhouse 2 Paula Deen Buffet 70 Casual Dining 14 Paul’s Fruit Market 76 Sandwich/Deli 3, 4, 5, 7 Pearl 83 Asian/Vietnamese 14 Peking City Bistro 80 Asian/Chinese 5 Penn Station 76 Sandwich/Deli [17] Peppers Bar and Grill 70 Casual Dining 1 Perfetto Pizza 74 Pizza 6 Perkfection 88 Coffee/Tea House 16 Pesto’s Italian 84 European/Italian 1 Petra Mediterranean 85 Middle Eastern 4 Pho Binh Minh 83 Asian/Vietnamese 13 Piccadilly Cafeteria 72 Cafeterias 6

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Pina Fiesta Mexican Grill 88 Mexican 12 Pink Baron BBQ 77 Barbecue 16 Pit Stop Bar-B-Que 77 Barbecue 5 Pita Delights 85 Middle Eastern 1 Pita Hut 85 Middle Eastern 2 Pita Pit 85 Middle Eastern 6 Pizza Donisi 74 Pizza 13 Pizza King 74 Pizza 14, 16 Pizza Place 74 Pizza 4 Please & Thank You 88 Coffee/Tea House 2 Pleasure Ridge Place 74 Pizza 12 Plehn’s Bakery 89 Desserts/Bakery 3 Police Donuts 89 Desserts/Bakery 5 Ponderosa Steakhouse 68 Steakhouse 13 Porcini 84 European/Italian 2 Potbelly Sandwich Shop 76 Sandwich/Deli 1 Proof On Main 61 Upscale Casual 1 Puccini’s Smiling Teeth 74 Pizza 3 Puerto Vallarta 88 Mexican 11, 14, 16 Pupuseria y Taqueria 86 Caribbean/Cuban/Latin 13 Qdoba Mexican Grill 88 Mexican [14] Quad Café 70 Casual Dining 16 Quattro 84 European/Italian 1 Queen of Sheba 80 African 1, 4 Queue Café 66 Cafés 1 Quick Wok 81 Asian/Chinese 1 Quill’s Coffee 88 Coffee/Tea House 2, 13, 14 Quizno’s Subs 76 Sandwich/Deli [7] Rafferty’s of Louisville 70 Casual Dining 3, 8 Raising Cane’s 70 Casual Dining 8 Ramiro’s Cantina 88 Mexican 2 Ramsi’s Café 64 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Red Hot Roasters 88 Coffee/Tea House 1, 2 Red Robin Gourmet Burgers 70 Casual Dining 3, 8 Red Sun Chinese 81 Asian/Chinese 4 Red’s Comfort Food 76 Sandwich/Deli 1 Relish 64 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Ri Ra Irish Pub 84 European/Irish 1 Rite Way Bar-B-Cue House 77 Barbecue 1 River City Drafthouse 78 Bar & Grill 2 River City Winery 64 Bistro/Contemporary 4 River Road BBQ 77 Barbecue 7 Riverside Café 66 Cafés 16 Rivue 58 Fine Dining 1 Rob-A-Que 77 Barbecue 13 Rocky’s Pizza & Panini 74 Pizza 4 Rocky’s Sub Pub 74 Pizza 16 Romano’s Macaroni Grill 84 European/Italian 5 Rooster’s 70 Casual Dining 12, 13, 15 Rootie’s Sports Bar & Grille 78 Bar & Grill 8 Roots 82 Asian/Japanese 2 Rosie’s Pizza 74 Pizza 5 Rosticeria Luna 88 Mexican 13 Royal Garden 81 Asian/Chinese 13 Rubbie’s Southside Grill & Bar 77 Barbecue 13 Ruby Tuesday 70 Casual Dining 6, 15 The Rudyard Kipling 70 Casual Dining 1 Rumors Raw Oyster Bar 67 Seafood 5 Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse 68 Steakhouse 3 Ryan’s Steakhouse 68 Steakhouse 11 Rye 61 Upscale Casual 1 SaE Café 76 Sandwich/Deli 1 Saffron’s 85 Middle Eastern 1 Safier Mediterranean Deli 86 Middle Eastern 1 Saigon Café 83 Asian/Vietnamese 3 Saigon One 83 Asian/Vietnamese 13 Saint’s 78 Bar & Grill 3 Sake Blue Japanese Bistro 82 Asian/Japanese 11 Sakura Blue 82 Asian/Japanese 3 Sala Thai 82 Asian/Thai 11 Sal’s Pizza & Wings 74 Pizza 5 Salsarita’s Fresh Cantina 88 Southwest/Tex Mex 3,5 Sam’s Food & Spirits 70 Casual Dining 14 Santa Fe 88 Mexican 16 Santa Fe Grill 88 Mexican 13 Sapporo Japanese Grill 82 Asian/Japanese 1, 2 Sari Sari Filipino Cuisine 81 Asian/Filipino 2 Sato’s Zen Sushi & Sake 82 Asian/Japanese 3 Schlotzsky’s Deli 76 Sandwich/Deli 8 Scotty’s Ribs & More 77 Barbecue 5 Scotty’s Village Market 76 Sandwich/Deli 8 Selena’s at Willow Lake Tavern 86 Cajun/Creole 5 Señor Iguana’s 88 Mexican 5, 6, 13, 15 Señor Taco 88 Mexican 11 Sergio’s World Beers 78 Bar & Grill 2 Seviche A Latin Restaurant 58 Fine Dining 2 Shack In The Back BBQ 77 Barbecue 13 Shady Lane Café 76 Sandwich/Deli 7 Shah’s Mongolian Grill 82 Asian/Mongolian 6, 13 Shalimar Indian 85 Indian 6 Shane’s Rib Shack 77 Barbecue 7 Shanghai Restaurant 81 Asian/Chinese 1 Shenanigan’s Irish Grille 84 European/Irish 2 Sherry’s Corner Café 66 Cafés 16 Shiraz Mediterranean Grill 86 Middle Eastern 2, 5, 7, 13 Shirley Mae’s Café 72 Home Style/Southern 1 Shogun 82 Asian/Japanese 6, 8 Shoney’s 70 Casual Dining 5, 13 Sichuan Garden 81 Asian/Chinese 6 Sicilian Pizza & Pasta 74 Pizza 1 Sidebar 64 Bistro/Contemporary 1 The Silver Dollar 64 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Simply Thai 82 Asian/Thai 3, 5 Sin Fronteras 88 Mexican 15 Sir Dano’s Pizza Parlor 74 Pizza 15 Sister Bean’s 88 Coffee/Tea House 13 Sitar Indian Restaurant 85 Indian 2 Skyline Chili 70 Casual Dining 2, 3, 6, 12 Smashburger 70 Casual Dining 1, 5 Smokehouse BBQ 77 Barbecue 11 Smoketown USA 77 Barbecue 1 Smokey Bones BBQ 77 Barbecue 6 Smokey’s Bean 88 Coffee/Tea House 13

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Snappy Tomato Sol Aztecas Sonoma Coffee Café Sora Sushi Soul Food By Tiffany Spaghetti Shop Spinelli’s Pizzeria Sporting News Grill The Sports & Social Club Spring St. Bar & Grill St. Charles Exchange Star Sushi Starbucks Coffee Starving Artist Café State Donuts Steak N Shake Stevens & Stevens Deli Steve-O’s Italian Kitchen Stoney River Stricker’s Café Studio Pizza Sub Station II Sugar & Spice Donut Shop Sully’s Saloon Sunergos Coffee SuperChef’s Breakfast Sway Sweet Stuff Bakery Sweet Surrender Sweets & Such Bakery Taco Punk Taco Tico Tacqueria La Mexicana Taj Palace Take Out To The River Tambayan Filipino TanThai Restaurant Taylor G’s Jamaican Jerk Tazza Mia TC’s Sandwich Shoppe Tea Station Chinese Bistro Terri Ann’s Texas Roadhouse Texicans BBQ Pit TGI Friday’s Thai Café Thai Siam Thai Smile 5 Thai Taste That Place On Goss The Back Door The Café The Cheddar Box The Cheddar Box Too Thornberry’s Deli & Pies Tin Roof Toast On Market Tokyo Japanese Tom + Chee Tomo Tony Impellizzeri’s Trailside Café Troll Pub Under The Bridge Tucker’s Tumbleweed Tuscany Italian Restaurant Tut’s Mediterranean Twig & Leaf Restaurant Uncle Maddio’s Pizza Joint Uptown Café Varanese Verbana Café Vic’s Café Vietnam Kitchen Village Anchor Pub & Roost Vincenzo’s Vint Coffee Vito’s Pizza Volare W.W. Cousin’s Wagner’s Pharmacy Wall Street Deli Warehouse Hookah Café Wasabiya Japanese Rest. Webb’s Market Wick’s Pizza Wild Eggs Wild Ginger Sushi & Fusion William’s Bakery Wiltshire On Market Wiltshire Pantry Bakery The Wing Zone Wingstop Winston’s Wok Express Wolfgang Puck Express Wonton Express Yaching’s East West Cuisine Yafa Café Yang Kee Noodle Yellow Cactus Yen Ching You-Carryout-A Zanzabar Za’s Pizza Zaxby’s Zaytun Mediterranean Grill Zen Garden ZiaLaLa Café Zoe’s Kitchen Zoup! Z’s Oyster Bar

MAP #

74 Pizza 8 88 Mexican 1, 2 88 Coffee/Tea House 2 82 Asian/Japanese 5 72 Home Style/Southern 13 84 European/Italian 11, 14 74 Pizza 1, 2, 3, 8 78 Bar & Grill 13 78 Bar & Grill 1 78 Bar & Grill 2 68 Steakhouse 1 82 Asian/Japanese 16 88 Coffee/Tea House [35] 76 Sandwich/Deli 5 89 Desserts/Bakery 8 70 Casual Dining 4,6,8,13,12,15 76 Sandwich/Deli 2 84 European/Italian 7 68 Steakhouse 8 66 Cafés 16 74 Pizza 15 76 Sandwich/Deli 13 89 Desserts/Bakery 11 79 Bar & Grill 1 89 Coffee/Tea House 1, 13 70 Casual Dining 2, 3 61 Casual Dining 1 89 Desserts/Bakery 14 89 Desserts/Bakery 2 89 Desserts/Bakery 12 70 Casual Dining 1 88 Mexican 12 88 Mexican 13 85 Indian 8 66 Cafés 10 81 Asian/Filipino 11 82 Asian/Thai 14 86 Caribbean/Cuban/Latin 1 89 Coffee/Tea House 6 76 Sandwich/Deli 1 81 Asian/Chinese 8 72 Home Style/Southern 12 68 Steakhouse 2, 12, 13, 15 77 Barbecue 7 70 Casual Dining 1 82 Asian/Thai 7 82 Asian/Thai 4 82 Asian/Thai 13 82 Asian/Thai 2 70 Casual Dining 13 79 Bar & Grill 2 66 Cafés 1 66 Cafés 3 66 Cafés 3 76 Sandwich/Deli 13 79 Bar & Grill 3 70 Casual Dining 1, 14 82 Asian/Japanese 7 76 Sandwich/Deli 2, 13 82 Asian/Japanese 14 74 Pizza 14 89 Coffee/Tea House 5 79 Bar & Grill 1 70 Casual Dining 14 88 Southwest/Tex Mex [15] 84 European/Italian 13 86 Middle Eastern 4 70 Casual Dining 2 74 Pizza 2 61 Upscale Casual 7 61 Upscale Casual 2 66 Cafés 8 79 Bar & Grill 14 83 Asian/Vietnamese 13 64 Bistro/Contemporary 5 58 Fine Dining 1 89 Coffee/Tea House 2 74 Pizza 13 84 European/Italian 2 76 Sandwich/Deli 3 72 Home Style/Southern 13 76 Sandwich/Deli 1 86 Middle Eastern 14 82 Asian/Japanese 2 72 Home Style/Southern 1 74 Pizza 2, 5, 6, 8, 14 66 Cafés 3, 5 82 Asian/Japanese 2 89 Desserts/Bakery 15 61 Upscale Casual 1 66 Cafés 2 70 Casual Dining 13 79 Bar & Grill 12 58 Fine Dining 4 81 Asian/Chinese 1 66 Cafés 1 81 Asian/Chinese 4 62 Upscale Casual 1 66 Cafés 1 81 Asian/Chinese 5 88 Mexican 14 81 Asian/Chinese 6 81 Asian/Chinese 15, 16 79 Bar & Grill 13 74 Pizza 2 70 Casual Dining 5,13,14,16 86 Middle Eastern 2 83 Asian/Vietnamese 2 66 Cafés 5 86 Middle Eastern 1, 3, 8 76 Sandwich/Deli 1 58 Fine Dining 5

Saddle up and Ride! Prepare for Derby with the class of a thoroughbred. Open 7 Days a Week in Louisville’s Historic Highlands. Our knowledgeable staff will guide you through our extensive wine selection and more than 40 bourbon and whiskey distilleries or explore online at: www.KyBourbon.net

1529 Bardstown Road www.OldTownWine.com 502.451.8591

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SOME PLACES SIMPLY SPEAK FOR THEMSELVES. Since 1923, when The Brown Hotel first opened her doors to the world, she has graciously welcomed guests with a sense of grandeur, which quite frankly has left many of our guests speechless. NOW, HERE’S WHAT THE REST OF THE WORLD IS SAYING: “Named one of the BEST 500 HOTELS IN THE WORLD” TRAVEL + LEISURE MAGAZINE

“Service was exemplary. I checked out with regret.”

GUIDE KEY Average Entrée Price:

$$ = under $8 $$$$ = $15-$20 $$ = $9-$14 $$$$ = $21 & up RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

h = Late Night OPEN PAST 10 P.M.

p = Full Bar

f = Outdoor Dining = e Live Music

ALL RESTAURANTS ARE LOCATED IN LOUISVILLE (unless noted otherwise). All phone numbers are local calls. When out of the area, use area code 502 for all listings except Indiana, use 812.

CHICAGO TRIBUNE

“The English Grill has emerged as the finest restaurant in the city.” WINE SPECTATOR

211 CLOVER LANE RESTAURANT 211 Clover Ln., 896-9570. This stylish spot in St. Matthews continues to rank among the city’s top tables. Ownermanager Andrew Smith and long time Chef Troy Schuster have burnished the upscale atmosphere and creative menu, moving 211 Clover Lane to a destination dining spot. $$$$ Br L D pf

THE ENGLISH GRILL

610 MAGNOLIA 610 Magnolia Ave., 636-0783. Chef Edward Lee’s creative international prix fixe menu has kept this elegantly comfortable Old Louisville restaurant a top table for more than 25 years. His monthly family style pasta and bistro dinners across the street in the Wine Studio give diners a way to appreciate his skills at a lower price point. $$$$ D pf BUCK’S 425 W. Ormsby Ave., 637-5284. Elegant but not overstated, this fine dining room in the Mayflower Apartments has been quietly serving high-style lunches and dinners for more than two decades. The quality of food and service remains high, and Rick Bartlett continues his long tenure at the piano. $$$ L D hpfe

J. GRAHAM’S CAFE

CORBETT’S ‘AN AMERICAN PLACE’ 5050 Norton Healthcare Blvd., 327-5058. Dean Corbett, longtime fixture on the Louisville dining scene, went all-out with his East End destination. Housed in the stunning former Von Allmen mansion, Corbett’s kitchen is state of the art, the dining room amenities include a chef’s table with closed circuit TV connection to the kitchen, and his menu has been earning raves. Worth the trip and the price. $$$$ L D hpf ENGLISH GRILL 335 W. Broadway (The Brown Hotel), 583-1234. This landmark, formal dining room is firing on all cylinders under Chef Laurent Geroli, who brings an international sophistication to the menu, and a wider exploration of cuisines with occasional special wine dinners. We recommend booking the chef’s table for an especially memorable evening. $$$ D p

T H E G R A N D LO B BY B A R

DOWNTOWN AT FOURTH & BROADWAY (502) 583-1234 • www.brownhotel.com 58 Summer 2013 www.foodanddine.com

JACK BINION’S STEAKHOUSE Horseshoe Casino Hotel, Elizabeth, IN, 888-766-2648. Housed in the Horseshoe Casino, Jack Binion’s, a stylish, upscale place, is no gamble for hearty dining. A traditional steakhouse, but one that aims high: top quality meat, impeccable service, a high-roller’s ambience. $$$$ D hp JACK FRY’S 1007 Bardstown Rd., 452-9244. Good times or bad, weeknights or weekends, this Louisville institution — the remnant of a 1930s saloon — is always crowded and buzzing. Stephanie Meeks has taken over from long-time owner Susan Seiler, but the

upscale bistro fare, like shrimp and grits and spicy fried oysters, is as good as ever. $$$$ L D hpe LILLY’S 1147 Bardstown Rd., 451-0447. A Louisville institution for more than a quarter-century, Lilly’s, under much heralded owner-chef Kathy Cary, continues to be as fresh as the locally-sourced foods she features on her Kentucky-accented menus. Her frequent special wine dinners are among the more affordable and creative in the area. $$$$ Br L D p LIMESTONE 10001 Forest Green Blvd., 426-7477. Chef Jim Gerhardt has established a stylish and elegant dining experience in the East End. Seasonal theme dinners and the Feed Me Chef ad hoc dinners offer special values. $$$$ L D hpf MILKWOOD 316 W. Main St., 584-6455. Edward Lee of 610 Magnolia plans the menus and oversees the kitchen of the basement space at Actors Theatre, and Len Stevens, formerly of L&N Wine Bar manages it. Bold selections of both wine and beer are on tap, and a quirky menu includes things like Lee’s take on fried chicken and “lip-smacking frog legs.” $$$ D p THE OAKROOM 500 S. Fourth St. (Seelbach Hotel), 585-3200. Executive Chef Jim Gerhardt (who also operates Limestone in the East End) continues to make the Oakroom worthy of its AAA fivediamond designation. The menu is refined but lively, melding local produce and specialty items like spoonfish caviar with classic continental cuisine. $$$$ Br D pe RIVUE 140 N. Fourth St., (Galt House Hotel) 568-4239. The sleek black and white modern decor, slowly spinning to give a panorama of the city, brings to mind an old Fred Astaire movie. Chef Brian Riddle’s menu, with a local emphasis and upscale flourishes, adds another top hotel dining experience to the city. $$$ Br D hp SEVICHE A LATIN RESTAURANT 1538 Bardstown Rd., 473-8560. Featured on the menu is seviche, the Latino seafood dish “cooked” in tart citrus juices, but Chef Anthony Lamas’ menu offers a broad, eclectic range of Latin American dishes. Lamas has recently been getting national notice in Esquire and on TV’s “Extreme Chef,” and with the renovation and expansion of the restaurant now complete, he is setting a new standard of cool for the Bardstown Road eating scene. $$$$ D hpf VINCENZO’S 150 S. Fifth St., 580-1350. Known for its suave professional service, high-end Northern Italian fare and many trademark dishes finished at tableside, Vincenzo’s continues to hold its own against growing downtown competition. $$$$ L D hpe WINSTON’S RESTAURANT 3101 Bardstown Rd. (Sullivan University Campus), 456-0980. Higher education meets higher cuisine at this elegant oncampus restaurant staffed by Sullivan culinary arts students. But this is no college lab; it’s an attractive and stylish restaurant. Chef John Castro runs the staff through its paces guaranteeing that while students are learning their craft, your dinner will ace the test. Open Fri. - Sun. only. Reservations suggested. $$$ Br L D p Z’S OYSTER BAR & STEAKHOUSE 101 Whittington Pkwy., 429-8000, 115 S. Fourth St., 855-8000. The successful upscale steak and oyster concept that has worked so well in the Hurstbourne suburbs is now also the theme at Z’s sleek downtown venue. Splendid steaks, extraordinary seafood, fine service and clubby ambience will give visitors another center-city choice. $$$$ L D hp

60 WEST BISTRO & MARTINI BAR 3939 Shelbyville Rd., 719-9717. 60 West combines a comfortable dining room with a large, friendly bar offering an imposing list of martinis and martini-style cocktails. The menu offers fairly priced Contemporary American bistro fare. $$$ D hfe

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ASIATIQUE 1767 Bardstown Rd., 451-2749. Fifteen years ago Chef Peng Looi introduced Louisville diners to pan-Asian Pacific Rim fusion cuisine. In his sophisticated, multi-level, Bardstown Road restaurant he continues to offer clean, simple, elegant dishes that present often startling flavor combinations. His wok-seared salmon has long been a local favorite. $$$ Br D hpf AUSTIN’S 4950 U.S. 42, 423-1990. Big, crowded and bistro-style, with heavy emphasis on the bar, this suburban watering hole taps the same vein as the national franchise booze ’n’ beef genre, and does so well, offering satisfying dining at a fair price. $$ Br L D p BASA MODERN VIETNAMESE 2244 Frankfort Ave., 896-1016. Chef Michael Ton brought a new style of Asian fusion cuisine to Louisville, playing entertaining riffs off Vietnamese cooking, with daring choices like caramelized catfish claypot and tamarind-sriracha gelato. $$$ D hp

Wine,

h! the Spot

BLACKSTONE GRILLE 9521 U.S. 42, 228-6962. Longtime restaurateur Rick Dissell, formerly of Rick’s Ferrari Grille, continues to please his many fans at his latest restaurant in the Prospect Center. The menu offers sandwiches and an array of bistro entrées — pasta, seafood, beef and chicken, including Rick’s fried chicken livers and “light” fried chicken. $$$ Br D pf THE BLIND PIG 1076 E. Washington St., 618-0600. (See listing under Bistro/Contemporary.) BLU ITALIAN MEDITERRANEAN GRILLE 280 W. Jefferson St. (Louisville Marriott), 627-5045. BLU offers upscale Italian Mediterranean cuisine in striking surroundings highlighted by Mexican limestone and Italian marble. For those seeking a relaxing libation and a quicker snack, the Bar at BLU offers a more casual alternative. $$$ B Br L D pe

502-456-0980 | winstonsoflouisville.com Lunch: Friday & Saturday 11am-2pm; Sunday 10am-2pm | Dinner: Friday & Saturday 5:30-10pm Reservations recommended | 3101 Bardstown Road

BRAVO! 206 Bullitt Ln. (Oxmoor Center), 326-0491. Management describes the Ohio-based Bravo! chain as “a fun, white-tablecloth casual eatery … positioned between the fine-dining and casual chains.” A Romanruin setting houses abundant Italian-American style fare. We particularly enjoyed appetizers and firstrate grilled meats. $$ Br L D hpf BRISTOL BAR & GRILLE 1321 Bardstown Rd., 4561702, 300 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 426-0627, 614 W. Main St., 582-1995, 6051 Timber Ridge Dr., 292-2585, 2035 S. Third St., 634-2723, 700 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 218-1995. A cornerstone of Louisville’s restaurant renaissance, The Bristol started three decades ago on Bardstown Road. Now with six venues around town, diners can always find dependable pub grub, eclectic entrées, and evergreen standards like the green-chile won tons and the Bristol Burger. F&D columnist Scott Harper has crafted an exceptional wine selection. $$ Br L D hpf CAVIAR JAPANESE RESTAURANT 416 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 625-3090. Sammy Sa, the genial host of the Fuji restaurants in the East End, also pleases downtown diners with this stylish Japanese eatery next door to the Seelbach Hotel. Eat at the sushi bar, choose a comfortable table or reserve the traditional Japanesestyle Tatami Room for your group. $$$ L D hp CHARR’D BOURBON KITCHEN & LOUNGE 1903 Embassy Square Blvd. (Marriott Louisville East), 4911184. The restaurant in the Jeffersontown Marriott plays up its Bourbon theme on the menu divisions (“10 minute White Dog” lunch choices, “Bourbon Kitchen Favorites,” “Bootlegger Burger Bar” and so on) but in addition you will find some interesting outliers: fish tacos, a turkey burger, truffle mac and cheese and hot water cornbread. The Bourbon selection is impressive and includes more than 75 offerings of Kentucky’s finest. $$$ Br L D hp THE CHEESECAKE FACTORY 5000 Shelbyville Rd. (Mall St. Matthews), 897-3933. “Cheesecake” is its name, and this glitzy shopping-mall eatery offers a wide variety of rich, calorific choices to eat in or

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take out. It’s more than just cheesecake, though, with a wide-ranging menu of California, Southwestern and Pacific Rim fare plus full bar service. $$$ Br L D hpf CORNER CAFÉ 9307 New Lagrange Rd., 426-8119. There’s nothing fancy or overly elegant about this suburban neighborhood old favorite, but the term “eclectic” fits it well. $$$ L D hp DECCA 812 E. Market St., 749-8128. Located in an 1870s building in NuLu, Decca brings the talent of chef Annie Pettry to Louisville. A commitment to locally farmed and small production ingredients is evident in the kitchen, and throughout the bar and wine program. Decca features local artists and musicians alongside inspired food and drinks in a warm atmosphere. $$$$ D hpfe DOC CROW’S 127 W. Main St., 587-1626. Doc Crow’s solidly anchors the dining choices on Whiskey Row. Oysters from both coasts, raw and fried, fried green tomatoes, pork rinds, shrimp and grits, all served in a handsome renovation of one of Main Street’s classic cast-iron front buildings. $$ L D hp EQUUS 122 Sears Ave., 897-9721. With the newish Corbett’s in the East End hitting on all cylinders, veteran Chef Dean Corbett has returned to his flagship St. Matthews restaurant, redesigning the room for a more casual atmosphere, and refocusing the menu on comfort foods, with no entrée over $19. Though the prices are lower, we don’t expect the quality of fare to follow suit. $$$ D p GARY’S ON SPRING 204 Spring St., 584-5533. Chef Harold Baker has been at the helm of this Irish Hill upscale casual spot since the start about a year ago. His menu features appetizers such as a baby Hot Brown and chicken fritters with red chili sauce, a buffalo mozzarella salad, bison ribeye, Bourbon Street scallops and eggplant Napoleon. $$$ D phpfe HARVEST 624 E. Market St., 384-9090. Agricultural entrepreneur Ivor Chodkowski’s venture into the restaurant world focuses on locally sourced foods (Chodkowski and Chef Coby Ming are shooting for 80% from within 100 mile radius), which limits the fish selection, but increases diners’ awareness of how much local food producers can do. Dishes such as smoked goat cheese ravioli and buttermilk fried chicken with arugula hoecake show what they have in mind. $$$ Br L D hpf HAWKSVIEW GALLERY AND CAFÉ 170 Carter Ave., Shepherdsville KY, (502) 955-1010. In this “American bistro with a Southern twist,” diners eat amidst a gallery of hand-crafted glass art. Daily specials are inspired by world cuisines and the “confectionary artist” creates sweets like Linzer tortes and extreme turtle cheesecake. Watch glass being blown as you dine. $$ Br L D e HENRY’S PLACE 4863 Brownsboro Ctr., 690-6585. This East End, Euro-inspired brigade de cuisine restaurant offers affordable upscale dining in surroundings of “sophisticated retro Mad Men 60s” decor. The eclectic menu offers choices such as Wagyu beef carpaccio, chicken ballotine and cioppino. Chef and co-owner Charles Reed even uses double-yolk duck eggs in his house-made pasta for added richness and color. $$$$ D p J. ALEXANDER’S RESTAURANT 102 Oxmoor Court, 339-2206. This comfortably upscale venue, a Nashville-based chain, features “contemporary American” fare with a broad menu that ranges from burgers and sandwiches to such upscale eats as grilled tuna or a New York strip steak. $$$ D hp J. HARROD’S 7507 Upper River Rd., 228-4555. J. Harrod’s is discreetly tasteful and pleasantly comfortable. The food is competitive in both quality and value. It’s an appealing, upscale blend of bistro fare and old-fashioned country cooking. $$$ D p KT’S 2300 Lexington Rd., 458-8888. It’s hard to argue with success, and KT’s has earned its popularity by 60 Summer 2013 www.foodanddine.com

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providing good American-style bar and bistro chow for a price that’s fair. $$ Br L D hpf MAKER’S MARK BOURBON HOUSE & LOUNGE 446 S. Fourth St., (Fourth Street Live) 568-9009. Kentucky’s Maker’s Mark Distillery lends its name and its signature red-wax image to this stylish restaurant and lounge in the booming downtown entertainment complex. A magisterial bar features more than 60 Bourbons, and the menu offers traditional Kentucky fare. $$$$ L D hpf MELTING POT 2045 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-3125. This Florida-based chain brings back pleasant memories of fondue parties of the ’70s. If you can melt it and dip things in it, the Melting Pot probably has it on the menu. $$$ D hp NAPA RIVER GRILL 1211 Herr Ln., 893-0141. Innovative wine-country cuisine, excellent service and fine California-focused wine collection can be found in the stylish quarters of this popular East End restaurant. With an expanded menu serving both lunch and dinner, it’s become one of the anchors of trendy Westport Village center. $$$ L D hpf OLD STONE INN 6905 Shelbyville Rd., Simpsonville, KY, (502) 722-8200. For many years diners have happily driven out to Simpsonville to enjoy both the historic building and the traditional Kentucky menu of this dining institution. Those in the know order the fried chicken and country ham. $$$ Br L D pfe P.F. CHANG’S CHINA BISTRO 9120 Shelbyville Rd., 327-7707. This Arizona-based, Chinese themed restaurant offers a loud, happy scene with Chinesestyle dishes. To its credit, everything is prepared well and service is consistently fine. $$$ L D hpf PROOF ON MAIN 702 W. Main St. (21c Hotel), 2176360. Executive chef Levon Wallace is at the helm in the kitchen now, promising to keep the bison burger and the octopus on the menu as he explores his own ways to incorporate local products into his culinary vision. $$$ Br L D hpf RYE 900 E. Market St., 749-6200. After a long apprenticeship in the New York restaurant world, Michael Trager-Kusman has returned to his hometown where he and his partner, Aaron Yarmuth, have invested in the renovation of the old Hausmann Jeep Eagle building on far east Market St. Operating the restaurant is front-of-the-house manager Erin McDonald, who came from Chicago, and Chef Tyler Morris, a veteran of The Breslin in New York. $$ L D hpf SWAY 320 W. Jefferson St. (Hyatt Regency), 587-3434. After a $5.8 million renovation, the Hyatt Regency, long without a signature competitive restaurant, is now back in the game, with one of the handsomest dining spaces around. The menu is based on the “Southern Way,” from whence comes the name Sway, which is an emphasis on fresh seasonal food with local sourcing whenever possible. The bar area opens onto Fourth Street, for superior people-watching. $$$ B L D hpf UPTOWN CAFÉ 1624 Bardstown Rd., 458-4212. Anchoring a hot corner in the Highlands for two decades now, the Uptown continues to be a popular lunch and dining destination, with its excellent bistro fare, and always appealing dessert selections. $$$ L D hpf VARANESE 2106 Frankfort Ave., 899-9904. Chef John Varanese has made even old-timers forget that this stylish venue was once a gas station. With a slate interior waterfall and a front wall that folds open in good weather, the dining room is as interesting as the lively, international seasonal menu. Live jazz, contemporary art and urban style complete the mood. $$$ D hpfe VOLARE 2300 Frankfort Ave., 894-4446. (See review under European/Italian.) WILTSHIRE ON MARKET 636 E. Market St., 5895224. Understated elegance and creative dishes characterize this NuLu restaurant. Owner Susan

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Hershberg set the benchmark for fine catering in Louisville with Wiltshire Pantry, which she continues here with her finely crafted small plates menu that changes weekly to showcase the best seasonal ingredients. Open Thur. - Sun. only. Reservations suggested. $$ D pf YACHING’S EAST WEST CUISINE 105 S. Fourth St., 585-4005. Yaching’s promises “an eclectic menu of contemporary Asian fusion cuisine.” It’s an attractive mix of East and West, sufficient to give just about everyone something to enjoy, regardless of which compass point attracts your taste buds. $$$ L D hp

ATRIUM CAFÉ 9940 Corporate Campus Dr. (Embassy Suites), 426-9191. An eclectic bistro atmosphere in the heart of the hotel. Specials run from their popular crab cakes and array of pasta dishes to a Reuben sandwich or fruit pie. $$ B L D hp BAXTER STATION BAR & GRILL 1201 Payne St., 5841635. The corner bar with the railroad theme is also an ambitious restaurant, known for surprises like Cajun linguini with andouille sausage, homemade desserts (from pastry chef Amy Berry) and lunchtime “steam table” plates. Take particular note of an impressive beer list to go with your meal. $$ L D pf BISTRO 1860 WINE BAR 1765 Mellwood Ave., 6181745. The old house on the edge of Butchertown is now painted an arresting mustardy-yellow. The interior is all old brick and warm wood, with a comfy upstairs lounge space. All parts of the menu are offered at three size/price ranges: petite for tasting, appetizer and small entrée, allowing diners to explore the menu at reasonable cost. $$$ D

hpf

BISTRO 301 301 W. Market St., 584-8337. Quality contemporary American cuisine in a stylish environment makes Bistro 301 a reasonable alternative when you’re looking for upscale-casual dining downtown. $$$ L D pf THE BLIND PIG 1076 E. Washington St., 618-0600. This Euro-style gastropub’s menu focuses on French country cooking, house-made sausages and charcuterie, served in a casual but sophisticated atmosphere in a late-19th century building in Butchertown. $$ Br L D hpe BOURBONS BISTRO 2255 Frankfort Ave., 894-8838. It’s a comfortably upscale-casual restaurant, and a great bar, with a very comprehensive Bourbon list. Chef Jeff ”The Dude” Bridges has been reinvigorating this Crescent Hill favorite’s menu to match the excellence of its libations. $$$ D pf BRIX WINE BAR 12418 La Grange Rd., 243-1120. The use of an exceptionally obscure wine term (it’s pronounced “bricks” and refers to the sugar content of ripe grapes at harvest) hints that the proprietors of this wine bar know their vino. Interesting wines and a short bistro-style menu make it a welcome suburban alternative. $$ D hpe CAFÉ LOU LOU 106 Sears Ave, 893-7776, 2216 Dundee Rd., 459-9566. This popular spot wins critical raves and packs in crowds. Owner-Chef Clay Wallace is comfortable with his international bill of fare and laissez les bon temps rouler mood. A second location in the Douglass Loop is drawing equally-pleased crowds. $$ Br L D hp CAFFE CLASSICO 2144 Frankfort Ave., 895-0076. At first a coffee bar, but over the years the classy space at Clifton and Frankfort has matured into an elegant bistro serving an eclectic menu — salmon croquettes with wasabi aioli, empanadas, an international array of salads, panini, bocadillos and pizzas. A stylish place for lunch, or a hip stop for a late-night supper. $$ B L D fe DERBY CITY ROADHOUSE 1250 Bardstown Rd. The corner space in Mid-City Mall next to the

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cinemas did not stay empty long. This new spot will offer dinner in time for a movie.$$ Br L D

hpfe

DISH ON MARKET 434 W. Market St., 315-0669. Former Asiatique bar manager Anderson Grissom has stepped into the venerable lawyers’ lunch space on Market Street, renovating the kitchen and some interior space of the old Delta Restaurant into a somewhat upscale spot now open breakfast through dinner. $ B Br L D pf DITTO’S GRILL 1114 Bardstown Rd., 581-9129. This informally whimsical Highlands space masks the work of classically trained owner-chefs Dominic Serratore and Frank Yang. Sure, take note of the fanciful artwork adorning the exposed brick walls and the gargoyles in the ceiling. But don’t overlook Serratore’s “gourmet casual” menu of New England crab cakes, fanciful salads and Sunday brunch egg dishes. $$ Br L D hpf EXCHANGE PUB + KITCHEN 118 W. Main St., New Albany IN, 948-6501. Ian Hall, with Chef Rick Adams in tow, has moved his gastropub to a sumptuously renovated historic building in the center of the New Albany dining revival. His clever but accessible American bistro style food is available from lunch to late night. Notable on the menu are bison dishes — burger, nachos (housemade chips with bison chili topping) and skirt steak. $$ L D hpfe FOUR PEGS BEER LOUNGE 1053 Goss Ave., 6341447. Taking over the space vacated by the Germantown Pub, Four Pegs offers craft beer at approachable prices, as well as well-priced pub grub such as a chicken and waffle sandwich and a pork chop sandwich served with a Granny Smith apple slaw. Chef Matt Flink, formerly of Browning’s, helms the kitchen here. $ D h HAMMERHEADS 921 Swan St., 365-1112. Two veterans of the upscale kitchens along Bardstown Road have taken over the old Swan Dive space, and patrons of the previous vegan haunt are quickly becoming fans. Vegetarian selections such as crispy mushroom medley and veggie tacos join interesting oddities like duck sliders and bacon plantain croquetas. Also pulled pork and brisket, crab cakes, and a reasonable beer selection. $ D h HARD ROCK CAFÉ 424 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live), 568-2202. Louisville’s Fourth Street Live echoes with a bang amid hammering guitars and happy throngs at the local branch of this popular shrine to rock. The music scene is the draw, but you’ll have no complaints about Hard Rock’s standard American cuisine. $$ L D hpfe HOLY GRALE 1034 Bardstown Rd., 459-9939. The owners of the Louisville Beer Store have converted a former church to a beer pub and restaurant. Twenty taps offer a rotating choice of international brews, and an eclectic menu offers Belgian frites, pretzels and beer cheese, tacos and crostini. $ L D he JACK’S LOUNGE 122 Sears Ave., 897-9026. A sophisticated, elegant bar associated with the Equus restaurant next door, Jack’s offers a short but excellent menu featuring appetizers and light bites, along with a drinks list beyond reproach. $ D pf JAZZYBLU 815 W. Market St., 992-3243. The basement space at Glassworks that formerly housed The Jazz Factory is bopping again with regularly scheduled live jazz performances Thurs. - Sun. nights, and southern comfort food style lunch buffets Tues. - Fri. $ L D hpe MAJID’S ST. MATTHEWS 3930 Chenoweth Sq., 6182222. Long-time restaurateur and top-notch host Majid Ghavami’s current venture, in the heart of St. Matthews, offers a Mediterranean-American menu. The wine bar serves small plates, and focuses on American wines and an eclectic list from unusual locations — Lebanon, Israel, Greece and the Balkans. $$$ Br D pfe

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MANNY & MERLE 122 W. Main St., 290-8888. Tony Palombino’s latest addition to his eclectic local empire serves up contemporary Mexican street food (Mod Mex) and a funky bar menu that highlights an impressive collection of tequilas and Bourbons. A major C&W music venue, with live acts most nights of the week, featuring Nashville bands as well as local talent tending to the rawer, honkytonk end of the country spectrum. $ L D hpe MARKETPLACE RESTAURANT 651 S. Fourth St., 625-3001. Up front in the old Kentucky Theater is a deli and gourmet grocery. Behind the circular bar is the serene dining room, with a central hearth, and beyond that, a large enclosed patio. Chef Dallas McGarity’s seasonal menu cleverly fuses culinary concepts: crawfish arancini, duck confit ragout and curry-seared scallops, for instance. $$ L D hpf MUSSEL & BURGER BAR 9200 Taylorsville Rd., 3844834. Guaca Mole’s Fernando Martinez and his family stretch their ambitions and imaginations with an affordable “American bistro concept” featuring mussels with six different sauces, and 12 clever twists on burgers. Located in a strip mall just beyond the Hurstbourne Lane -Taylorsville Road intersection, it is worth seeking out, both for the food and for the comfy bistro atmosphere

created in the cavernous space tricked out by former owners. L D hpe NORTH END CAFÉ 1722 Frankfort Ave., 896-8770, 2116 Bardstown Rd., 690-4161. Now with a second location in Douglass Loop, folks in the Highlands, as well as Clifton, can enjoy North End’s hearty and unusual breakfast, or satisfying lunches and dinners. With an eclectic menu of diverse tapas and interesting entrées, it’s an appealing, affordable place to dine. $$ B Br L D hpfe OLD 502 WINERY 122 S. Tenth St., 540-5650. Watch the winemakers craft 10 varieties of wine from Kentucky-grown grapes and imported juices as you enjoy lunch or dinner in this upscale-casual eatery just west of downtown. The winery serves a full bar-style menu. $$ L D he RAMSI’S CAFÉ ON THE WORLD 1293 Bardstown Rd., 451-0700. The beating bohemian heart of the Highlands. Ramsi Kamar brings a wonderfully eclectic spirit to the environment and to his menu. Cuban. Jamaican. Greek. Middle Eastern. Moderate prices, a weekend brunch and late night hours add to the draw. $$ L D hpf RELISH 1346 River Rd., 587-7007. After a long hiatus from the restaurant biz, former Jack Fry’s and La

Dine with the natives Hiko-A-Mon Lilly’s Bistro Limestone Restaurant Mayan Café Meridian Café Napa River Grill North End Café - Crescent Hill North End Café - Highlands Palermo Viejo RIVUE Restaurant & Lounge Seviche Sweet Surrender The Irish Rover The Irish Rover, Too Uptown Café Vincenzo’s Winston’s Restaurant at Sullivan University

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RIVER CITY WINERY 321 Pearl St., New Albany IN, 945-9463. Ten of owners Gary and Melissa Humphrey’s wines medaled in the June 2011 Indy International Wine Competition. Their honest, straightforward wines and Italian-inspired menu, featuring brink-oven pizzas, draw appreciative crowds. Don’t miss the crab cakes with black-eyed pea salsa. $$ Br L D e SIDEBAR AT WHISKEY ROW 129 N. Second St., 384-1600. On the west side of Whiskey Row, above Troll Pub under the Bridge, this new place focuses on burgers, Bourbon and beer, a potentially boffo combo for those going to or coming from the Yum! Center across the street. The emphasis is on craft cocktails served alongside short but bold selection of sandwiches, appetizers and desserts. $$ L D hpe THE SILVER DOLLAR 1761 Frankfort Ave., 259-9540. The old firehouse in Clifton is now a honky tonk bar and restaurant, the music (all on vinyl) focused on the “Bakersfield sound” — a fusion of Mexicali and American roots music. The southern country-style menu with sophisticated nuances has been an immediate hit. Choose from more than 80 Kentucky Bourbons, ryes, tequila and mescal, but no “foreign whiskey” like Scotch. $$ Br L D hpf VILLAGE ANCHOR PUB & ROOST 11507 Park Rd., 708-1850. In the heart of Anchorage at the old train station is this two-level Euro-village inspired concept. On the upper level, a French bistro a la Moulin Rouge with an outdoor terrace. Downstairs at The Sea Hag the ambience is a British pub. The hearty upscale comfort food-style menu is served lunch and dinner with weekend brunch. A short, well-selected wine list and ambitious beer list with more than 50 craft and import choices accompany 55 Bourbons to boot. $$$ Br L D hpf

Support our local flavor

August Moon Chinese Bistro Baxter Station Bar & Grill Bistro 301 Bistro Le Relais Bluegrass Brewing Co. - Arena Bluegrass Brewing Co. - St. Matthews Bluegrass Brewing Co. - Theater Square Bristol Bar & Grille - Downtown Bristol Bar & Grille - Highlands Bristol Bar & Grille - Hurstbourne Bristol Bar & Grille - Jeffersonville, IN Bristol Bar & Grille - Prospect Buck’s Restaurant & Bar Café Lou Lou - Highlands Café Lou Lou - St. Matthews Come Back Inn De La Torre’s / La Bodega Eiderdown Food & Drink Equus / Jack’s Bar

Paloma owner, Susan Seiller, has opened this small, 50-seat lunch and takeout place focusing on “healthy, clean cuisine.” After cooking for her father following a heart attack, Seiler was inspired to create a restaurant serving healthful foods with lots of flavor. Takeout will be available only to customers with pre-paid accounts and who order their food online for pickup. $$ L f

ALLEY CAT CAFÉ 11804 Shelbyville Rd., 245-6544. This suburban Alley Cat is a cozy and bright little place, and the lunch-only menu is affordable and appealing. $ L THE ANCHORAGE CAFÉ 11505 Park Rd., 708-1880. It started as a suburban coffee bar and café offering continental breakfasts and sandwiches. But in no time Anchorage Café has morphed into a premium bakery and Anchorage-area go-to spot for eclectic, farm-to-table meals at lunch and dinner. And it still offers excellent espresso. $ B Br L D f AROMA CAFÉ Horseshoe Casino Hotel, Elizabeth IN, 888-766-2648. Grab a bite before hitting the casino. Sandwiches, salads, sides, cold beverages and coffee will fuel you for a night of entertainment. $ B L D hp BLUE DOG BAKERY AND CAFÉ 2868 Frankfort Ave., 899-9800. Tables are always at a premium at this popular Crescent Hill breakfast and lunch spot. And its artisanal bakery continues to produce hearty European-style breads that have set a gold standard on restaurant tables and in better grocery stores around town. $$ B L f BLUEGRASS CAFÉ 3819 Bardstown Rd., 459-2320. This little lunch spot in the Derby City Antique Mall in Buechel has a daily hot table buffet line plus a menu of soups, salads and sandwiches. On Sundays it offers a brunch buffet with a choice of breakfast and luncheon dishes. $ Br L BOOMER’S CAFÉ 722 W. Main St., 585-4356. In the midst of the booming West Main Street arts and

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museum district, this lunch spot offers standard American café fare. $ L CAFÉ AT MAIN STREET 10317 Watterson Trl., 2675111. This bright, lively lunch place moved into the city from Bullitt County trailing loyalists and drawing new fans. A typical day of specials might include tomato cheddar or butterbean soup, asparagus and chicken quiche, warm brie spinach salad and a selection of house-made pies and cakes. $ B Br L

Introducing our newest Wiltshire Pantry location ...

Wiltshire Pantry Bakery & Café

CAFÉ FRAICHE 3642 Brownsboro Rd., 894-8929. Cuisine from around the world is featured at this East End neighborhood café, featuring homemade soups, breads and a variety of entrées on a seasonally changing menu. $ B L

Sweet!

CAFÉ MONTAGU 1930 Bishop Ln., 451-6357. This breakfast and lunch place provides breakfasts and lunches mainly to the denizens of the Watterson Towers office complex. Home-style cooking, daily specials (meatloaf, pastas) and quick service keep the wheels of business rolling. $ B L CHEDDAR BOX CAFÉ 12121 Shelbyville Rd., 2452622. An attractive — and busy — Middletown lunch spot, owner Michelle Bartholmew serves popular salads, sandwiches and soups, as well as hot entrées such as potato-chip-crusted whitefish, specialty pizzas, and lemon-tarragon chicken with orzo. Pick up some frozen appetizers for your next cocktail party. $ L D f

– INSPIRED CUISINE SINCE 198 9 –

Featuring artisan breads, pastries, brioche, gourmet sandwiches, salads and more.

CITY CAFÉ 505 W. Broadway, 589-1797, 500 S. Preston St., 852-5739. Chef Jim Henry, a long-time star in the city’s culinary firmament, brings his cooking skills and insistence on fresh, quality ingredients to these simple, but excellent, spots for lunch. $ L CRAVE CAFÉ & CATERING 2250 Frankfort Ave., 896-1488. Experienced caterers and chefs offer casual but quality café fare in this comfortable old frame house in Clifton. $$ L D

Visit our new Bakery and Café ~ 901 Barret Avenue at the corner of East Breckinridge Street www.WiltshirePantry.com | 502.581-8561

CREEKSIDE OUTPOST & CAFÉ 614 Hausfeldt Ln., New Albany IN, 948-9118. The Creekside Outpost warps customers back into the days of general stores and maintains every bit of old-fashioned charm. Serving up buffalo, elk and surprisingly good burgers. Exotic foods including Shinnecock ice fish, black bear, ostrich and kangaroo (when available) round out an excellent, traveled menu. $$ B L f CRICKET’S CAFÉ 7613 Old Hwy. 60, Sellersburg IN, 246-9339. Offering breakfasts and lunch to local Hoosiers and travelers who take exit 7 off I-65. Full breakfasts, omelets, and breakfast sandwiches. A full range of standard lunch sandwiches, with Reubens, Philly steak and cheese, and daily specials. Homemade soups and salads, too. $ B Br L f DERBY CAFÉ 704 Central Ave., (Kentucky Derby Museum) 634-0858. Lunch served year-round in the dining area adjacent to the Derby Museum with such regional favorites as meaty burgoo, and the Hot Brown. $ L pf EARTH FRIENDS CAFÉ AND COFFEE BAR 829 E. Market St., 749-8911, 180 W. Spring St., New Albany IN, 949-4430. The New Albany vegetarian restaurant has opened a second space in Nulu. The emphasis at both locations is on vegetarian and vegan sandwiches, wraps and paninis, soups and salads, with a small “omnivore” selection — tuna melts and smoked chicken quesadilla, that sort of thing. $ B Br L EMMA LOU’S CAFÉ 1327 Bardstown Rd., 456-4500. This long-time ladies’ lunch favorite, in an attractive old house on Bardstown Road, offers interesting, pleasant lunch fare, with very appealing dessert choices. $$ L ERMIN’S BAKERY & CAFÉ 1201 S. First St., 6356960, 455 S. Fourth St. (Starks Bldg.), 585-5120. These popular bakeries attract crowds looking for an enjoyable soup and sandwich lunch highlighted by French-style breads and pastries. $ B L

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HIGHLAND MORNING 1416 Bardstown Rd., 3653900. You can order breakfast anytime at this Highlands space, with an eclectic menu that also encompasses brunch, burgers, soul food, Southern dishes and vegetarian fare as well. $ B L D h J. GRAHAM’S CAFÉ & BAR 335 W. Broadway (The Brown Hotel), 583-1234. The home of the legendary “Hot Brown” sandwich, J. Graham’s offers a more casual bistro-style alter na tive to the upscale English Grill, with choice of menu service or buffet dining. $$ B L pf JAMBA JUICE 320 S. Fourth St., 581-0066. A national chain known best for its silky-frosty fruit smoothies, some of which are health focused (the carrot juice and orange-berry anti-oxidant blend is one example), Jamba has added some basic breakfast (oatmeal, wraps) and lunch items (flatbread pizza and toasted sandwiches) to broaden its appeal. $ L D KAYROUZ CAFÉ 3801 Willis Ave., 896-2630. Tucked in among St. Matthews sidestreets is one of the best sandwich places in Louisville. The tuna salad, Portobello mushroom Reuben, fish, chicken and hamburger — all are innovative and all come with some of the best fries in town. $ L D f MERIDIAN CAFÉ 112 Meridian Ave., 897-9703. This little lunch spot occupies a cozy old house in St. Matthews. Service is competent and polite, the place is sparkling clean, and the luncheon-style fare is consistently fine. A selection of appetizing breakfast items rounds out a tasty mix. $ B L D f NONNIE’S KITCHEN 11601 Main St., Middletown, 245-4411. Picturesque downtown Middletown needs pleasant places for ladies to lunch, and Nonnie’s Kitchen now occupies the space that once housed Tiffany Cellars Café. A mother-son team from Chicago has hit the ground running, with a menu of soups, salads, sandwiches and desserts that have delighted early adopters. $ L f ORANGE CLOVER KITCHEN & MORE 590 Missouri Ave., Jeffersonville IN, 282-1005. Find quick break-

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fast and lunch items here, such as the Orange Clover muffin: poppy seed and blood orange flavors with a blood orange drizzle, as well as a cupcake version with cranberries. Two soup specials offered every day out of a recipe rotation of 75 possibilities won’t result in many repeats. $ B L

THE CHEDDAR BOX TOO 109 Chenoweth Ln., 8961133. Cheddar Box owner Nancy Tarrant has extended her presence with a café just across the parking lot. Look for the same tasty salads, soups and desserts that have made her take-away business so popular. $BL

QUEUE CAFÉ 220 W. Main St. (LG&E Building), 583-0273. $ B L f

VERBENA CAFÉ 10639 Meeting St., 425-0020. This Norton Commons eatery is open early for breakfast and serves hearty lunches till midafternoon, but you can order breakfast or lunch at any of those hours. $$ B L f

RIVERSIDE CAFÉ 700 W. Riverside Dr. (Sheraton Hotel), Jeffersonville IN, 284-6711. The breakfast room and bar of the Sheraton Riverside. Breakfast served until 10:30 a.m. Unwind at the bar at night. $$ B pf SHERRY’S CORNER CAFÉ 1051 Market St., Charlestown IN, 256-3722. Breakfast and lunch are served at this archetypical family eatery specializing in fresh, home-style cooking. $ L STRICKER’S CAFÉ 2781 Jefferson Centre Way, Jeffersonville IN, 218-9882. Family style restaurant serving hearty soups, salads, sandwiches, burgers, melts and breakfast too, in suburban Jeffersonville. $ B L TAKE OUT TO THE RIVER 9550 US Hwy. 42, 3652605. $ L D

WILD EGGS 3985 Dutchmans Ln., 893-8005, 1311 Herr Ln., 618-2866, 153 S. English Station Rd., 6183449. Specialty omelets, the everything muffin, spicy egg salad sandwiches — these dishes and more have made Wild Eggs a wildly popular breakfast and lunch spot. Prized seats at weekend brunch can now be found at this growing mini-chain’s third outlet. $ B Br L p WILTSHIRE PANTRY BAKERY AND CAFÉ 901 Barret Ave., 581-8561. Longtime high-end caterer Susan Hershberg adds a third foodservice operation with this new bakery and café operation on the corner of Breckinridge. She and her baker, Diana Rushing, look to being another source of artisanal breads, a food item the French know there cannot be too much of. $ B L

THE CAFÉ 712 Brent St., 637-6869. You can see the traffic on East Broadway from The Café’s serene walled patio. Choose from an eclectic breakfast and lunch menu, including old favorites like tomato dill soup and chicken salad. Or eat inside and be amused at the yard-sale look of mismatched furniture and chandeliers and doorways to nowhere, reminiscent of its former location in an antique mall. $ B Br L f

YAFA CAFÉ 22 Theater Sq., 561-0222. $ L D

THE CHEDDAR BOX 3909 Chenoweth Sq., 893-2324. For more than 25 years this St. Matthews tradition has delighted ladies who lunch, hungry students who munch, and just about everyone else with their sandwiches, pasta salads and tasty desserts. It caters parties with almost 50 choices of appetizers, party sandwiches, dips, cheese rings and crostini. $ L f

ZIALALA CAFÉ 12220 Shelbyville Rd., 713-5803. The owners, of Venezuelan and Italian backgrounds, tout their Middletown eatery as a “Latin café with a European flair.” The eclectic menu includes arepas, pizzettes (individual thin-crust pizzas), muffuletta, egg salad sandwiches, panini and empanadas with Chilean, Puerto Rican and Jamaican flavors. $ L D f

WOLFGANG PUCK EXPRESS 221 S. Fourth St., 562-0983. Bearing the name of the celeb rity Austrian chef, this downtown lunch spot in the corner of the convention center offers tasty wraps, sandwiches and soups. $$ L

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AMSHOFF’S FISH INN AGAIN 8402 Hudson Ln., 749-2379. If fish is your dinner wish, Amshoff’s has it fried, baked, broiled and grilled and all served with southern seasonings. There’s chicken, too, and lots of southern standard side dishes. $$ L D BONEFISH GRILL 657 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 4124666. This franchise concept from the Floridabased Outback Steakhouse chain offers impressive seafood in a comfortable setting. Add Bonefish to your short list of suburban chain eateries that do the job right. $$$ D hp CHARLESTOWN TRAIN STATION SEAFOOD 1041 Highway 62, Charlestown IN, 256-4200. A family friendly place with outdoor picnic-table seating and the kind of familiar fried fillets everyone likes. $ L D pf CLARKSVILLE SEAFOOD 916 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville IN, 283-8588. As the only surviving descendant of Louisville’s old Cape Codder chain, Clarksville Seafood upholds a long and honorable tradition. The menu is simple — fried fish and fried seafood, served on paper trays — but it is consistently excellent and affordable. And now open until 8 p.m. most nights. $ L D EAGLE LAKE & RESTAURANT 7208 Whipple Rd., 937-7658. If you like to fish, or if you like to eat fish, you’ll likely enjoy Eagle Lake, a simple, downhome eatery in Southwestern Jefferson County. Seafood is the specialty. Fishermen will enjoy their stocked pay-to-fish lake. Note though, it’s not possible to have your catch fried for dinner. $$ L D f FISH-FRY HOUSE 2280 Bardstown Rd., 632-2583. The owners of Sharom’s and Zaytun have opened a new fish house, serving up the crisp, fresh fried seafood that made Sharom’s an Okolona favorite. $$ L D hp

seafood at family prices since 1925 and remains immensely popular. There’s indoor seating and a bar, but the picnic grove with its giant shade trees makes Linnig’s a special place in season. Out of season — Nov. to Jan. — the family shutters the place and takes a nice vacation. $ L D f MITCHELL’S FISH MARKET 4031 Summit Plaza Dr., 412-1818. The decor of this upscale eatery evokes the feeling of a large fish market, with an open kitchen that offers views of chefs at work. Quality seafood and service have made Mitchell’s a popular destination. $$$ L D hpf PASSTIME FISH HOUSE 10801 Locust Rd., 267-4633. If you are looking for an honest fish sandwich and a cold beer or two, with no frills, this southside tavern is just the ticket. Belly up, place your order, and be sure to have cash — no credit cards accepted here. $$ L D fe RUMORS RESTAURANT & RAW BAR 12339 Shelbyville Rd., 245-0366. Visualize Hooter’s without the scantily-clad waitresses, and you’ve drawn a bead on Rumor’s, the original Louisville home of the bucketof-oysters and impressive raw bar. $$ L D hpf

CAST IRON STEAKHOUSE 1207 E. Market St., Jeffersonville IN, 590-2298, 6325 River Rd., 3847466. Buck’s owner Curtis Rader’s idea to cook steaks and sides in cast iron pans at moderate prices hit such a popular nerve that he opened two more locations on the Kentucky side of the river. The ambience of all his places is upscale with “no peanuts on the floor, antlers on the wall or country music,” Rader promises. $$$ D hpf CATTLEMAN’S ROADHOUSE 2001 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 384-7623, 139 Historical Trail, 543-3574. The small chain that’s grown up around Louisville is now here. In addition to the mid-priced beef

offerings look for starters such as fried pickle chips and jalapeno poppers, grilled chicken and salmon and plenty of sandwich choices. $$$ L D hp DEL FRISCO’S 4107 Oechsli Ave., 897-7077. Loyal Louisville beefeaters continue to fill up this 28year-old St. Matthews steakhouse, with its brick walls and beamed ceilings. Any red meat enthusiast would know to order the filet or Porterhouse, but only regulars know the glories of something called green phunque. $$$$ D hp EDDIE MERLOT’S PRIME AGED BEEF 455 S. Fourth St., (Fourth Street Live) 584-3266. The sumptuous renovation of the space at the corner of Fourth and Muhammad Ali has resulted in one of the largest dining spaces in town. The Ft. Wayne-based small chain with big ambitions boasts glittering mosaic artwork, a handsome bar opening onto Fourth Street, and luxurious seating in secluded nooks and corners. The menu focuses on high end steaks, well prepared seafood and seasonal specials. $$$$ L D hpe JEFF RUBY’S STEAKHOUSE 325 W. Main St., 5840102. This Cincinnati restaurateur has made an impact in Louisville with his outstanding steaks, glittery bar, urban vibe and top-notch service. The rooms have Churchill Downs themes. The steaks take the rail with seafood and sushi coming up fast on the outside. $$$$ D hpe LOGAN’S ROADHOUSE 5055 Shelbyville Rd., 8933884, 5229 Dixie Hwy., 448-0577, 970 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 288-9789, 1540 Alliant Ave., 266-6009. With more than 100 properties in 17 states, this Nashville-based chain parlays peanut shells on the floor and steaks on the table into a popular formula. $$ L D hp LONGHORN STEAKHOUSE 2535 Hurstbourne Gem Ln., 671-5350, 9700 Von Allmen Ct., 326-7500, 1210 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 284-5800, 4813 Outer Loop, 969-9790. Oversize steaks and a “big

THE FISH HOUSE 1310 Winter Ave., 568-2993. Louisville is as overflowing as a well-stocked lake with fish-sandwich houses, and The Fish House is right up there with the best. Crisp breading laced with black pepper is the signature of Green River fried fish from Western Kentucky. $ Br L D f THE FISHERY 3624 Lexington Rd., 895-1188, 11519 Shelbyville Rd., 409-4296. The original fried-fish eatery in a neighborhood that’s now awash with them, The Fishery remains justly popular for its quick, sizzling hot and affordable fish and seafood meals. $ L D f FISHERY STATION 5610 Outer Loop, 968-8363. $$ LD HILL STREET FISH FRY 111 E. Hill St., 636-3474. This Old Louisville tradition is small and easy to miss, but it’s worth the effort to get by. It’s oversized fried whitefish sandwich is the flagship dish, but a varied menu is also available. $ L D f JACKSON’S SEAFOOD 400 W. Main St., New Albany IN, 945-3474. Joe Jackson, 13-year veteran of locallyfamed Clarksville Seafood, serves up fried, broiled or blackened fish, and rolled oysters. Fans of Jackson’s former employer will find many similarities in the food, but offered with customer-friendly service and rational, predictable hours. $ L D JOE’S CRAB SHACK 131 River Rd., 568-1171. The setting on the edge of Riverfront Park is bright, noisy and fun, with a wraparound deck providing a panoramic river view. $$ L D hpf KINGFISH RESTAURANT 3021 Upper River Rd., 895-0544, 1610 Kentucky Mills Dr., 240-0700, 601 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 284-3474. Fried fish in a family dining setting has made this local chain a popular favorite for many years. Two of its properties — upper River Road and Riverside Drive — boast river views. $$ L D hpfe MIKE LINNIG’S 9308 Cane Run Rd., 937-9888. Mike Linnig’s has been dishing up tasty fried fish and

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sky” western theme are the draw at this chain eatery, although most of its properties are east of the Mississippi. $$ L D hp MORTON’S 626 W. Main St., 584-0421. This belowground temple to the red meat gods is elegant and masculine, full of wood paneling, brass rails and leather booths. Louisville reveres its home-grown restaurants but has welcomed this Chicago-based chain with open mouths. $$$$ D hp

ASPEN CREEK RESTAURANT 8000 Bardstown Rd., 239-2200. The entrepreneur who created Texas Roadhouse and Buckhead’s is back with a concept that’s both old and new — a lodge-style restaurant that invokes the rustic feel of the Rockies, and offers a menu of pastas, burgers, and poultry at prices that aren’t mountain high. $$ L D hp

OUTBACK STEAK HOUSE 4621 Shelbyville Rd., 8954329, 6520 Signature Dr., 964-8383, 9498 Brownsboro Rd., 426-4329, 8101 Bardstown Rd., 231-2399, 1420 Park Place, Clarksville IN, 283-4329. The name suggests Australia, and so does the shtick at this popular national chain, but the food is pretty much familiar American, and the fare goes beyond just steak to take in chicken, seafood and pasta. $$$ D hp

BLUE HORSE CAFÉ 830 Phillips Ln. (Crown Plaza Hotel), 367-2251. $$$ L D hp

PAT’S STEAK HOUSE 2437 Brownsboro Rd., 8969234. A local favorite for fifty years and as traditional as a steakhouse gets, Pat Francis, like his father before him, cuts the meats himself. Its combination of quality beef and hospitality rank it among the best steak houses in town. $$$$ D pf

BLUEGRASS BURGERS 3334 Frankfort Ave., 6146567. Four women restaurateurs have partnered to offer a gourmet burger concept. Choose your burger — grass-fed Kentucky beef or bison, tuna or veggie (or grilled chicken, cheese steak or franks) — and then head for the topping bar. $ L D f

PONDEROSA STEAKHOUSE 11470 S. Preston Hwy., 964-6117. Family-style dining with the ranch theme kept alive with the open flame from the grills. An extensive buffet with hot and cold foods, salads and desserts is also available. $ L D

BRICKHOUSE TAVERN & TAP 871 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 326-3182. The Brickhouse Girls, wearing tight black baby Ts and denim minis, serve typical bar food, beer and ale and cocktails, and encourage patrons to play beer pong. This has to be a winning corporate concept, don’t you think? $$ L D hpf

RUTH’S CHRIS STEAKHOUSE 6100 Dutchman’s Ln., 479-0026. The Robb Report magazine has declared Rolex the world’s best watch, Armani the best men’s suit, Cohiba the best cigar and Ruth’s Chris the best restaurant. It serves an excellent steak in an atmosphere of elegance that will make you feel pampered, at a price to match. $$$$ D hpe RYAN’S FAMILY STEAKHOUSE 5338 Bardstown Rd., 491-1088. This North Carolina-based chain offers family dining with good variety: Its diverse and extensive buffet features more than 150 items. $$ L D THE ST. CHARLES EXCHANGE 113 S. Seventh St., 618-1917. Two Philadelphia restaurateurs have brought this new upscale eatery and cocktail lounge, upstairs in the same building Morton’s steakhouse. The menu turns back the clock to early 1900s style food — dishes like crab Louie, shrimp cocktail, steak Diane, and coq au vin, with a “highlevel” cocktail program. $$$$ D hp STONEY RIVER LEGENDARY STEAK 3900 Summit Plaza Dr., 429-8944. Stoney River in the Springhurst shopping center is one of the chain’s first properties outside its Georgia home. It draws big crowds with its memorable steaks and trimmings, with extra points for friendly service and a comfortable atmosphere. $$$$ D hp TEXAS ROADHOUSE 757 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy. (Green Tree Mall), Clarksville IN, 280-1103, 4406 Dixie Hwy., 448-0705, 6460 Dutchmans Pkwy., 897-5005, 3322 Outer Loop, 962-7600. The spirit of the West sets the theme for this popular steak house. Salads, vegetables and breads with hearty side dishes round out your meal options. This is family-style dining, with no tray sliding — service at your table. $$ L D hp

A NICE RESTAURANT 3129 Blackiston Mill Rd., New Albany IN, 945-4321, 2784 Meijer Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 280-9160. 404 Lafollette Station, Floyds Knobs IN, 923-7770. A Nice Restaurant, billed as “New Albany’s Finer Diner,” is, well, nice enough to have launched two more branches. All specialize in simple, down-home breakfast and lunch at affordable prices. $ B L APPLEBEE’S (6 locations) This cheery national chain features an eclectic assortment of salads, steaks, ribs, poultry and pasta as well as full bar service. It’s as consistent as a cookie cutter, but competent execu68 Summer 2013 www.foodanddine.com

tion makes it a good bargain for those whose tastes run to mainstream American cuisine. $$ L D hp

B.J.’S RESTAURANT & BREWHOUSE 7900 Shelbyville Rd.(Oxmoor Mall), 326-3850. This Southern California chain arrived east of the Mississippi, including a large and imposing brewhouse at Oxmoor Mall. A full range of made-in-Nevada craft beers is dispensed, along with upscale-casual pub grub. $$ L D hp

BUCKHEAD MOUNTAIN GRILL 3020 Bardstown Rd., 456-6680, 707 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN 284-2919, 10206 Westport Rd., 339-0808. The deck of the riverfront location in Jeffersonville, with its view across the river, is a great place for a lazy summer meal, when the familiarity of allAmerican fare like meat loaf, pot pies, steak or ribs and a couple of cold ones is all you want. The big square bars in all three locations, with multiple TV screens, make for excellent sports viewing as well. $$ L D hpf BUNZ RESTAURANT 969 1/2 Baxter Ave., 632-1132. This little Highlands made-to-order gourmet hamburger shop concocts quality burgers with a range of standard and oddball toppings. $ L D hf CAFÉ MAGNOLIA 140 N. Fourth St. (Galt House), 589-5200. The Galt House’s quick and casual secondfloor dining alternative, this spacious venue offers a range of fare for guests on the go, from bacon and eggs to a late-night burger and fries. $$$ L D hp CAPTAIN’S QUARTERS 5700 Captain’s Quarters Rd., 228-1651. One of the city’s most attractive eateries for atmosphere, Captain’s Quarters matches the beautiful setting with quality bistro-style fare that won’t disappoint. Summer or winter, it’s a delightful place to dine. $$ Br L D pfe CARDINAL HALL OF FAME CAFÉ 2745 Crittenden Dr., 635-8686. This oversize eatery at Gate 4 of the Kentucky Fair & Exposition Center celebrates U of L sports with a “walk of fame” loaded with awards, photos, game balls and lots more Cardinal memorabilia. What? You want food too? Sure! Casual American dining features everything from a “Cardinal Burger” to steaks and prime rib. $ L D hp CHAMPIONS GRILL 505 Marriott Dr. (Holiday Inn), Clarksville IN, 283-4411. Known by locals for its Saturday night buffet of New York strip, ribeye and prime rib. Salads, sandwiches, soups and a kid-friendly menu round out the selection. $$ B Br L D pe CHEDDAR’S CASUAL CAFÉ 10403 Westport Rd., 339-5400, 3521 Outer Loop, 966-3345, 1385 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 280-9660. This popular Dallas-based chain draws big, hungry crowds with its large bar and familiar “casual to upscale American” fare. $ L D hpf CHILI’S 421 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 425-6800, 3623 Bardstown Rd., 301-8888, 11600 Antonia Way, 3018181, 9720 Von Allmen Ct., 301-8880. More than

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just a place to chow down on baby back ribs, this national chain has a wide selection including fajitas, burgers, sandwiches and veggies. $$ L D hp CHOCOLATE MARTINI BAR 1106 Lyndon Ln. (Westport Village), 384-1384. This unique combination of a creperie, martini bar, sandwich, lunch and dinner spot and dessert bar allows you to get a banana split crepe and a creme brulee martini, a Reuben or fried baloney sandwich in the same sitting. Desserts and ice cream can be ordered to go. $$$ L D hpfe CHOP SHOP SALADS 436 W. Market St., 589-2467, 126 Breckinridge Ln., 384-4252. The two-handed mezzalunas rock steady as the line cooks chop up lettuce, vegetables and meats into hearty salads or wraps. Mostly a to-go place with limited seating, the steady lunchtime crowds attest that office workers see a need for fresh light lunch fare. $ L D COACH LAMP RESTAURANT 751 Vine St., 5839165. The restored 137-year-old building has gone through some remodeling this winter, and Jerome Pope, 10 year veteran of The Brown Hotel, has returned with a revamped menu. He is serving up modern American fare, things like house-made soups, braised rabbit, and a sizzling chicken dish. $$$ L D pf CULVER’S 4630 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 671-2001. When the trademark item is called a “ButterBurger” and frozen custard tops the dessert menu, you know you’re not in for diet fare. Quality fast food and friendly service make this chain a popular East End spot. $ L D f CUNNINGHAM’S 630 S. Fourth St., 587-0526, 6301 Upper River Rd., 228-3625. Carrying on into its third century in modern quarters that capture much of the nostalgia of its history, Cunningham’s vends fine fish sandwiches and pub grub in this downtown location and in a second eatery on Harrods Creek. $ Br L D hpf DECKERS GRILLED SANDWICHES 2350 Greene Way, 491-3114. A burgeoning chain launched by White Castle sells hot soups, pressed sandwiches (the four cheese and bacon Decker sounds great) and desserts, as well as salads at affordable prices. No “sliders” here, but comparable prices. $ L D h FAMOUS MIKE’S STEAK & LEMONADE 3052 Wilson Ave., 618-0102. At first a curious culinary combination — steak and lemonade — but this little nearWest End place is a gem offering an eclectic range of quick comfort foods: chicken gizzard baskets, pizza rolls, cheese steaks, burgers and subs. $ L D h FIVE GUYS BURGERS & FRIES 2221 State Street, New Albany IN, 944-9958, 4116 Summit Plaza Dr., 426-1702. Based in Virginia, this burger chain invokes the early days of fast food with freshly-grilled burgers, big, smoky Kosher dogs, enough condiments to satisfy any craving, fresh-cut fries that are out of this world and a cheery rock’n’roll sensibility. $ L D FLABBY’S SCHNITZELBURG 1101 Lydia St., 290-7273. Since 1952, serving up rolled oysters, German comfort food and fried chicken to Germantown residents and fans from far and wide. Where else can you find limburger and braunsweiger with onions on rye and Warsteiner on draft? $ D f GAME 2295 Lexington Rd., 618-1772. The guys behind Hammerhead’s have opened a build-your-own-burger joint in a funky, off-the-directly-beaten-path place once home to Cycler’s Café. Unique burger choices are made from ground duck, lamb, venison, antelope and wild boar. Bun choices range from brioche to pretzel to Kaiser roll. Toppings include smoked truffle mayo, cranberry-jalapeno jam, and pesto — you get the idea. Much fun, so far. $$ D f GARAGE BAR 700 E. Market St., 749-7100. Housed in a former service station in NuLu, Garage Bar serves up draft and bottled craft beers, Bourbons,

seasonal cocktails and wine, pizzas from a woodfired brick oven and Southern specialties, with an emphasis on fresh, local ingredients. The ham flight is not to be missed. $$$ D hpf GAVI’S RESTAURANT 222 S. Seventh St., 583-8183. This family-owned eatery has been around for decades. Standard casual American cuisine adds a few Russian-style specialties such as homemade borsht soup and beef Stroganoff. Daily lunch specials include lots of fresh vegetable dishes. $ B L GOOSE CREEK DINER 2923 Goose Creek Rd., 3398070. Goose Creek Diner offers old-fashioned comfort food, as the name “diner” suggests, but transcendently adds a gourmet taste to the down-home eats. $ B Br L D GRADY’S BURGERS AND WINGS 3825 Taylor Blvd., 361-1106. The name says most of what you need to know. Ten flavors of wings, breaded, fried and sauced. The hot wings and the honey BBQ are the biggest sellers. Deli sandwiches and gyros too. $ L D f GREEN LEAF NATURAL VEGETARIAN BISTRO 309 W. Cardinal Blvd., 637-5887. Green Leaf serves up vegetarian fare in the new town center of University of Louisville. The menu has a pan-Asian focus, with noodles and fried rice and stir fries, as well as smoothies and bubble tea. $ L D HOME RUN BURGERS & FRIES 2060 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 409-7004, 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 365-3388, 12949 Shelbyville Rd., 384-8403, 303 W. Cardinal Blvd., 708-1818. Burgers, dogs and fries and drinks with a baseball theme highlight this suburban spot, and more than 20 toppings offer you a fielder’s choice of options to dress your burger. $ L D f HOOTERS 4120 Dutchmans Ln., 895-7100, 4948 Dixie Hwy., 449-4194, 7701 Preston Hwy., 968-1606, 700 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 218-9485, 941 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 284-9464. Hooter’s may draw crowds with its long-standing reputation as a party scene, but you’ll stay for the food, an appetizing selection of soups, salads, seafood and, of course, wings. $ L D hpfe INTERNATIONAL HOUSE OF PANCAKES 1220 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 285-1772, 1401 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 618-2250. IHOP fans can choose to go out to the East End or across the river to satisfy their jones for the national chain’s inimitable food. $ B L D h JOE & KATHY’S PLACE 5408 Valley Station Rd., 935-5323. This family-run, home-cooking-fromscratch place has developed a loyal following among the Valley Station locals. The menu supplies expected standards like fried chicken, biscuits and gravy, but contemporary offerings like vegetable panini and pork tenderloin sandwich with pesto mayo are available, too. $ B L D JOE’S OLDER THAN DIRT 8131 New Lagrange Rd., 426-2074. Going strong after many years in this Lyndon location, Joe’s has gradually grown from a little house to a sprawling complex of indoor and outdoor tables with live music many evenings. Excellent barbecue is a specialty, and so is ice-cold beer. $ L D hpfe KAREM’S 9424 Norton Commons Blvd., 327-5646. Karem’s Grill & Pub, one of the first restaurants to open in the village-like Norton Commons, carries the look and feel of a neighborhood watering hole inside and out. The test of a restaurant, though, is the food, and Karem’s is excellent. $$ L D h KERN’S KORNER 2600 Bardstown Rd., 456-9726. This family-owned tavern has been a popular neighborhood pit stop since 1978. Kern’s offers freshly made ham, chicken salad sandwiches and burgers, as well as a menu of soups, chilis and appetizers. $ L D pf LEGENDS Horseshoe Casino Hotel, Elizabeth IN, 888-766-2648. The hot and cold short orders are served up with riverboat hospitality, but in a Las

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Vegas atmosphere. A well stocked bar and a live stage welcome the best of regional and visiting national acts. $$ L D hpe MANHATTAN GRILL 429 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 561-0024. $ B L MIMI’S CAFÉ 615 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 426-6588. This California chain, a subsidiary of Bob Evans, goes urban and upscale where farmer Bob is folksy and country. This East End outlet has developed a following beyond those familiar with it from other locations. $$ B Br L D hpf THE MONKEY WRENCH 1025 Barret Ave., 582-2433. A popular spot in the urban neighborhood where the Highlands meet Germantown, The Monkey Wrench offers comfort food with a stylish spin, top flight music, a relaxed ambience and welcoming service. A rooftop patio packs them in on warm evenings. $ L D hpfe MULLIGAN’S PUB AND GRILL 1801 Newburg Rd., 632-2818. Neighborhood institution Kaelin’s is gone, but Mulligans’ now holds down the fort. Although the “If you can’t stop, please wave sign” is still outside, inside, wood-paneled walls, a new horseshoeshaped bar and vintage wooden golf clubs show that a new game is afoot. The beer list now includes BBC craft beers and Irish imports. The menu is geared toward hearty sandwiches, pizza and steak and shrimp entrées. $$ L D hpf NEIL & PATTY’S FIRESIDE BAR & GRILL 7611 IN 311, Sellersburg IN, 246-5456. A family owned and operated outpost up the road a piece, long known for their warm and welcoming, down-home atmosphere, has expanded their craft beer selection. The local cognoscenti know they can also find excellent pastas, steaks, seafood, and salads. Homemade soups are created daily. Coffee and desserts are always made fresh. Breakfast served until 2 p.m. $$ Br L D p NEW ALBANY ROADHOUSE 1702 Graybrook Rd., New Albany IN, 981-7777. $$ L D hp O’CHARLEY’S (6 locations) O’Charley’s, Inc. could serve well as the picture in the dictionary next to “American casual dining.” The Nashville-based chain operates 206 properties in 16 states in the Southeast and Midwest, serving a straightforward steak-andseafood menu with the motto “Mainstream with an attitude.” $$ Br L D hp OTTO’S CAFÉ 500 S. Fourth St. (Seelbach Hilton Hotel), 585-3201. Southern cooking with gourmet flair makes Otto’s an intriguing alternative to the Seelbach’s more upscale Oakroom. Check out the Southern Breakfast Buffet and Executive Express Lunch Buffet. $$BBr L PAULA DEEN BUFFET Horseshoe Casino Hotel, Elizabeth IN, 888-766-2648. Bubbly Paula extends her food empire to Horseshoe Casino. Modeled after her restaurants, the motif is based on the architecture of Savannah, Ga., where she lives. Of course, there’s a shop attached, where you can purchase aprons, cookbooks, cookware and her new furniture line. $$$$ B Br L D PEPPERS BAR & GRILL 320 W. Jefferson St. (Hyatt Regency), 587-3434. This newly renovated casualdining facility in the Hyatt Regency offers a full dinner menu for hotel guests and outside visitors as well. $$ D hp QUAD CAFÉ 103 Quartermaster Ctr., Jeffersonville IN, 282-7823. Bistro dining in the always-changing Quartermaster Center in Jeffersonville. Expect a broad lineup of gourmet burgers, flat bread pizzas, an oyster bar on Friday and Saturday nights, daily lunch specials and a full bar. $ L Dpf RAFFERTY’S OF LOUISVILLE 988 Breckenridge Ln., 897-3900. 3601 Springhurst Blvd., 412-9000. This full-service, casual dining establishment has a hearty menu. Specialties like Red Alfredo Pasta showcase the gourmet offerings along with some of the largest and most creative salad combinations in town. $$ L D hpf 70 Summer 2013 www.foodanddine.com

RAISING CANE’S 10490 Westport Rd., 425-4040. A national chain with a single core product — chicken fingers. This replacement for the old Twister’s Custard brings simple and straightforward fried chicken finger combos and sandwiches with slaw and fries on the side. $ L D f RED ROBIN GOURMET BURGERS 9870 Von Allmen Ct., 339-8616, 5000 Shelbyville Rd., 899-9001. This Seattle-based chain serves up its well regarded “gourmet burgers” and trimmings in two East End locations. Despite a full bar, it reportedly attracts hordes of happy youngsters. $$ L D hpf ROOSTER’S 7405 Preston Hwy., 964-9464, 4420 Dixie Hwy., 384-0330, 1601 Greentree Blvd., Clarksville IN, 590-3391. This Columbus-based wings-andbrews chain conquered Ohio and is now spreading its franchise wings across the Eastern U.S. Its first three Louisville properties have gained popularity for a lively sports bar setting and oversize wings. $ L D hpf RUBY TUESDAY 11701 Bluegrass Pkwy., 267-7100, 1354 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 288-5010. If success demonstrates quality, then Ruby Tuesday’s 600 international properties and 30,000 employees can stand up with pride. They’ve been upholding the slogan “Awesome Food. Serious Salad Bar” in Louisville for a generation. $$ L D hp THE RUDYARD KIPLING 422 W. Oak St., 636-1311. The word “eclectic” fits this Old Louisville eatery in just about every dimension, from its funky decor to its diverse bill of fare, not to mention an array of entertainment that bridges the generations from Generation X’ers to aging hippies. The owners are scaling back, though, and opening only on Fridays and Saturdays. $ D hp SAM’S FOOD & SPIRITS 3800 Payne Kohler Rd., Clarksville IN, 945-9757, 702 Highlander Point Dr., Floyds Knobs IN, 923-2323. Sam Anderson has been running his popular Southern Indiana institution for over 17 years now, feeding an army of happy diners. You’ll find his extensive and child friendly menu at a second location in Floyds Knobs. $$ L D hp SHONEY’S 6511 Signature Dr., 969-8904, 9921 Ormsby Station Rd., 423-6388. For nearly 50 years, Shoney’s restaurants have been one of America’s top choices for fast roadside dining, and happily they’ve kept up with the times. $ B L D SKYLINE CHILI 1266 Bardstown Rd., 473-1234, 9980 Linn Station Rd., 429-5773, 4024 Dutchmans Ln., 721-0093, 6801 Dixie Hwy., 937-4020. Louisville’s outposts of a famous Cincinnati chili restaurant, these casual eateries offer the regional favorite (really it’s Greek spaghetti sauce, but keep it quiet) and other fast-food dishes. $ L D h SMASHBURGER 9409 Shelbyville Rd., 326-4141, 312 S. Fourth St., 583-1500. A growing chain located mostly in the West and the South now has two Kentucky locations serving made-to-order Angus beef burgers, and is looking to open up to four more locations. $ L D f STEAK N SHAKE 3232 Bardstown Rd., 456-2670, 4913 Dixie Hwy., 448-4400, 4545 Outer Loop, 966-3109, 2717 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-3397, 10721 Fischer Park Dr., 326-3625, 980 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN., 285-1154. One of the oldest fast-food chains in the U.S., Steak N Shake traces its ancestry to an Illinois roadside stand in 1934. It now boasts 400 outlets in 19 states but still sticks to the basics: quality steak burgers and hand-dipped shakes served, if you dine in, on real china. $ B L D h SUPERCHEF’S BREAKFAST 2317 Brownsboro Rd., 8953270, 3941 Chenoweth Sq., 899-5655. Inside Chicago Gyro and The Seafood Connection you will find Sullivan grads Darnell Ferguson and Ryan Bryson offering an ambitious morning menu including beignets and coffee, granola-encrusted French toast, red velvet pancakes and peanut butter and jelly oatmeal. $ B f

TACO PUNK 736 E. Market St., 584-8226. Gabe Sowder, formerly of 610 Magnolia, set out on his own serving funky tacos at the Douglass Loop Farmer’s Market. But now the Iron Chef alum (he was part of Edward Lee’s 2010 winning team) has taken over the old Toast on Market space to continue his exploration of everyone’s favorite “Mexican” food. House-made tortillas packed with ingredients ranging from traditional to the unique — duck, lamb and chorizo — make up the bill of fare. $ L D hf TGI FRIDAY’S 416 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live), 585-3577. The original place to loosen the tie and congregate after the whistle blows. TGIF carries on its party atmosphere tradition with American bistro dining and libations. The bill of fare ranges from baskets of appetizers on up to contemporary entrées. $$ L D hpf THAT PLACE ON GOSS 946 Goss Ave., 409-5409. Located inside the Antique Mall in the old textile mill, That Place serves hearty and cleverly tweaked lunch fare and Sunday brunch. They are especially fond of their Meaty Jack, a meatloaf sandwich, grilled and topped with Jack cheese and their special sauce. Art on the walls is from friends at Mellwood Art Center, where owners Amy and William Enix initially started. $ Br L TOAST ON MARKET 620 E. Market St., 569-4099, 141 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 941-8582. This local breakfast and lunch favorite has gained a loyal following and tremendous word-of-mouth, and opened a second outlet across the river. The original NuLu location has moved out of the funky, cavernous old theater building to the former Artemisia a few doors west. $ B Br L pf TUCKER’S 2441 State St., New Albany IN, 944-9999. Tucker’s gives you a little bit of everything with a down-to-earth flair, offering burgers, ribs, steaks, a variety of appetizers and pastas. $ L D hp TWIG & LEAF RESTAURANT 2122 Bardstown Rd., 451-8944. A popular Highlands hangout, the “Twig” is probably at its best for breakfast — whether you’re enjoying it while venturing out on a leisurely Sunday morning or heading home very late on a Saturday night. It’s a place to grab a quick, filling bite, and doesn’t pretend to be more. $ B L D h THE WING ZONE 905 Hess Ln., 636-2445. Another wings emporium situated to catch the fancy of U of L fans, Wing Zone excels with jumbo wings in 25 flavors, including traditional Buffalo-style wings that range from Mild to Nuclear. $ L D hf ZAXBY’S 2740 Allison Ln., Jeffersonville IN, 920-0080, 807 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 742-8600, 5025 Mud Ln., 632-1400, 2870 Technology Ave., New Albany IN, 725-7484. They have been all around us out in the state, but now Louisville and Southern Indiana have their own Zaxby’s, the casual dining chain that cutens its menu with a lot of “z’s”: zappetizers, zalads, platterz, wings and fingerz — that sort of thing. $ L D h

BARBARA LEE’S KITCHEN 2410 Brownsboro Rd., 897-3967. Barbara Lee’s has been a late-night refuge for years. It’s a reliable standby for those in search of traditional blue-plate special lunch food. Honest grub, honestly priced, in a rootsy atmosphere. $ B L D h BIG MOMMA’S SOUL KITCHEN 4532 W. Broadway, 772-9580. Big Momma’s may be the most hospitable place in the West End to get genuine soul food. A different main course is featured daily, all homecooked food, including such goodies as baked chicken, smothered pork chops, meat loaf, catfish … and fried chicken every day. $ L D CHECK’S CAFÉ 1101 E. Burnett Ave., 637-9515. You can whiff a scent of Louisville history coming off the old walls of this quintessential Germantown saloon, along with years of frying grease. The bar food here is about as good as bar food gets, and

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that’s not bad. The chili and the bean soup are particularly recommended. $ L D pf THE CHICKEN HOUSE 7180 Hwy. 111, Sellersburg IN, 246-9485. The parking lot of this white frame building in rural Indiana is packed on weekend nights as families from throughout the area wait on delectable fried chicken. This is the very heart of American comfort food, including green beans, dumplings, and mashed potatoes. $$ L D CHICKEN KING 639 E. Broadway, 589-5464. Spicy, crunchy and sizzling hot fried chicken is the primary draw on a short, affordable menu. $ L D h COTTAGE CAFÉ 11609 Main St., Middletown, 2449497. This nostalgic old house in the countryside offers a taste of Kentucky-style cookery in an array of lunch specials that range from homemade soups and sandwiches to the traditional Hot Brown. $ L COTTAGE INN 570 Eastern Pkwy., 637-4325. Longtime neighborhood fixture Cottage Inn has a bright new look, and continues happily doling out the kind of excellent down-home food it has served for more than 70 years. $ L D D’NALLEY’S 970 S. Third St., 588-2003. Dirt-cheap blueplate specials and hearty breakfasts bring droves to this classic greasy spoon. Saturday morning hours are sporadic, but for a quick plate of meat loaf, green beans, and mashed potatoes, D’Nalley’s is a hard place to beat. $ B L D DAVE & PEG’S COPPER KETTLE 276 Main Cross St., Charlestown IN, 256-4257. $ B L D DRE’LYNNS SOUL FOOD KITCHEN 5019 Poplar Level Rd., 384-7685. $$ L D FOOD 4 UR SOUL 612 S. Fifth St., 614-6363. The newest incarnation in the corner space at Fifth and Chestnut offers up soulful favorites: fried catfish, rib tips, pork chops (grilled, smothered, or fried), sweet potato casserole, fried mac and cheese, and fried bologna sandwiches. $$ L D FORTY ACRES AND A MULE RESTAURANT 1800 Dixie Hwy., 776-5600. $ L D FRANCO’S RESTAURANT & CATERING 3300 Dixie Hwy., 448-8044. Long-time fans of Jay’s Cafeteria — including politicians and national entertainers — are no longer bereft. Jay’s former owners serve up Southern Soul food in Shively at family-friendly prices. Look for smothered pork chops, collard greens, fried chicken, fried catfish and fruit cobbler. $ L D FRONTIER DINER 7299 Dixie Hwy., 271-3663. The name “diner” says it all, and this friendly neighborhood spot on Dixie Highway delivers just what you’d expect in down-home comfort fare. The word on the street, though, is simple: Go for the pancakes. They’re worth a special trip. $ L D GOLDEN CORRAL 4032 Taylorsville Rd., 485-0004, 8013 Preston Hwy., 966-4970, 1402 Cedar St., Clarksville IN. 258-2540. Buffet style family dining — one price, all you can eat. Steaks are served beginning at 4 p.m. $ B L D HAZELWOOD RESTAURANT 4106 Taylor Blvd., 3619104. Whether you like your eggs over easy, or your cheeseburgers well done, you’ll like the Hazelwood Restaurant. Standard short orders cooked with lots of character and a low price. $ B L D HOMETOWN BUFFET 1700 Alliant Ave., 267-7044, 6641 Dixie Hwy., 995-3320. This chain serves up nostalgic dishes, casseroles, meats and desserts that allow you to set an all-American supper table with the all-you-can eat price tag. $ B L D INDI’S RESTAURANT 1033 W. Broadway, 589-7985, 3820 W. Market St., 778-5154, 2901 Fern Valley Rd., 969-7993, 5009 S. Third St., 363-2535, 2970 Tenth St., Jeffersonville IN, 288-8980, 1085 Market St., Charlestown IN, 256-3780. Grown from a tiny West End takeout spot to a mini-chain, Indi’s vends a variety of affordable soul food and barbecue specialties to take out or eat in. $ L D h

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KING’S FRIED CHICKEN 1302 Dixie Hwy., 776-3013. $LDh

Racing history on the walls and servers who’ll call you “hon.” $ B L

Lancaster, recalls the family’s culinary heritage with this family-friendly buffet-style cafeteria. $ L D

KUM’S KAFE 4125 Preston Hwy., 964-6336. Crispy fried chicken and fried catfish, as well as daily Asian specialties. $ L

WEBB’S MARKET 944 E. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 5830318. An old-line neighborhood corner grocery store houses a delicious secret: At the back you’ll find a steam table loaded with exceptional comfort food. Fried chicken is excellent, and don’t miss the chili. $BL

PICCADILLY CAFETERIA 2131 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 493-9900. An east end favorite for variety, Piccadilly offers roast beef, fried chicken, cod, steak and shrimp dinners, a gardener’s list of vegetables and a few ethnic dishes for global measure. $ L D

MISS C’S KITCHEN & PANTRY 1319 Story Ave., 759-1085, 308 W. Chestnut St., 992-3166. You will find traditional recipes using locally-sourced foods, such as pimento cheese made with Kenny’s white cheddar and tuna salad using the recipe from Stewart’s Orchid Room at both locations. $$ L NANA’S COUNTRY KITCHEN 5300 Cane Run Rd., 384-6525. When you want home-style cooking, you will want it like it is served here. Breakfast all day, lunch and dinner too. The regulars like the meatloaf and the chicken fried steak. $ B L D O’DOLLYS 7800 Third St. Rd., 375-1690. Homestyle steam-table favorites, available from breakfast to dinner, not to mention full bar service that makes O’Dollys a Southwest Louisville destination. $ B L D hp SHIRLEY MAE’S CAFÉ 802 Clay St., 589-5295. This Smoketown institution draws hungry locals as well as celebrities in town hungry for the soul food of their youth. BBQ ribs, and hot-water cornbread cooked in a cast iron skillets. Pig’s feet and chicken wings and collards, all seasoned with Shirley Mae Beard’s spice rack — salt and pepper. $ L D SOUL FOOD BY TIFFANY 701 Algonquin Pkwy., 7274115. $ L D TERRI ANN’S 2605 Rockford Ln., 449-9026. A homestyle restaurant in Shively serving eggs, taters, sandwiches, barbecue and soul food for breakfast, lunch and dinner. $ B Br L D WAGNER’S PHARMACY 3113 S. Fourth St., 375-3800. A track-side institution that has as much history as the nearby Twin Spires of Churchill Downs. Soups, sandwiches, shakes, cherry Cokes and an early bird “trainer’s” breakfast can be enjoyed all year round.

ANN’S BY THE RIVER 149 Spring St., Jeffersonville IN, 284-2667. This bustling eatery is cafeteria style dining done well. They serve up the standard steam table meat-and-three menu items as good as any. With the Ohio River a block away, it’s aptly named. $ L D THE BISTRO 3701 Frankfort Ave., 714-5586. A gem hidden away in The Olmsted, on the Masonic Home grounds in St. Matthews. This spot has earned terrific word-of-mouth buzz. Soups, sandwiches, salads, pastas are the mainstay of the menu, with a four-item lunch buffet that changes weekly. $ B Br L D f CRAVINGS A LA CARTE 101 S. Fifth St. (National City Tower), 589-4230. This thrifty deli offers a variety of build-your-own sandwiches, a soup-and-salad bar, and specialty bars featuring baked potatoes, and a monthly ethnic creation. $ L HALL’S CAFETERIA 1301 Story Ave., 583-0437. Doing a brisk business on the steam tables since 1955, they attract customers from Butchertown’s truck loading docks and from offices downtown. $ B L D JANE’S CAFETERIA 4601 Jennings Ln., 454-7286. This 40-year-old family-owned restaurant knows how to cook for folks missing their home table. Count on an attentive staff and fresh southern fare. $ B L LANCASTER’S CAFETERIA 223 W. Fifth St., New Albany IN, 949-2400. Troy Lancaster, the grandson of Southern Indiana catering king Tommy

THE BARD’S TOWN 1801 Bardstown Rd., 749-5275. On the ground floor a 60-seat restaurant and 30-seat lounge. On the second floor is the 70-seat Bard’s Town Theatre home to a resident troupe dedicated to producing new works from Kentucky playwrights and beyond, to other theatre, poetry and musical acts from around the country. Food and beverage service, but it’s not a dinner theater. $$ Br D hpfe DERBY DINNER PLAYHOUSE 525 Marriott Dr., Clarksville IN, 288-8281. The play’s the thing at Derby Dinner, Louisville’s long-running entry in the dinner-theater sweepstakes. The expansive seasonal buffet offerings have fans returning show after show. $$$$ L D pe HOWL AT THE MOON 434 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live), 562-9400. What’ll they think of next? How about a nightclub featuring a “dueling” piano bar with two pianos and a sing-along concept? You’ll find this 4,000-square-foot club at Fourth Street Live on the ground level. $ D hpfe INCREDIBLE DAVE’S 9236 Westport Rd., 426-4790. “Awesome dining, extreme fun, where family fun hits maximum overdrive” is the promise at this giant dining and entertainment venue. It’s not just for kids: an upscale menu in a signature dining room is at the center of it all. $$ L D hp JOE HUBER FAMILY FARM & RESTAURANT 2421 Scottsville Rd., Starlight IN, 923-5255. A pleasant 20-minute drive from downtown Louisville, Huber’s has built a solid reputation for simple farm fare that’s well-made, fresh and good. Some of the produce is grown on the premises in season. $$$ L D pf MY OLD KENTUCKY DINNER TRAIN 602 N. Third St., Bardstown KY, (502) 348-7300. Talk about a nostalgia trip: My Old Kentucky Dinner Train offers a four-course meal during a two-hour voyage along scenic Kentucky railroad tracks near Bardstown in vintage 1940s-era dining cars. Reservations are strongly recommended. $$$$ L D p

ACHILLES PIZZA 1730 Williamsburg Sq., Jeffersonville IN, 288-8882. $$ L D h ANGILO’S PIZZA 1725 Berry Blvd., 368-1032. The local favorite is the steak hoagie, dripping with pizza sauce, pickles and onions. Angilo’s also offers a wide selection of hot pizza pies and cold beer. $$ L D ANGIO’S RESTAURANT 3731 Old Bardstown Rd., 4515454. This small Buechel eatery attracts a friendly neighborhood crowd with hefty subs and quality pizzas, along with cold beer. $$ L D ANNIE’S PIZZA 2520 Portland Ave., 776-6400, 4771 Cane Run Rd., 449-4444. Annie’s has made-toorder pizza and a variety of stacked sandwiches such as the Big Daddy Strom with beef, Italian sausage, onions and banana peppers. $$ L D h

CRAFTED SINCE 1976 10601 FISCHER PARK DRIVE | 502.657.5700 9010 TAYLORSVILLE ROAD | 502.301.7700 72 Summer 2013 www.foodanddine.com

ARNI’S PIZZA 1208 State St., New Albany IN, 9451149, 3700 Paoli Pike, Floyds Knobs IN, 923-9805. A favorite Hoosier pizza and sandwich stop. Insist on getting the Deluxe. $$ L D h ARNO’S PIZZA 3912 Bardstown Rd., 384-8131.$$ L D BEARNO’S PIZZA (12 locations) What began as a simple, family-run pizzeria near Bowman Field has morphed into a local chain with, at last count, 13 locations. $$ L D h RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

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BONNIE & CLYDE’S PIZZA 7611 Dixie Hwy., 9355540. It may look like a dive that hasn’t been renovated in ages, the service can be surly at times, and you have to pay in cash, but devoted fans of its thin-crust pizzas and hoagies keep coming back and talk it up with their friends. $$ L D h BOOMBOZZ FAMOUS PIZZA 3400 Frankfort Ave., 896-9090. This handsome space at the corner of Frankfort and Cannons Lane is another idiosyncratic link in the Boombozz chain. The taphousestyle menu of pastas and sandwiches along with award-winning pies carves its own niche with bottled beer exclusively. $$ B Br L D hf BOOMBOZZ PIZZA BISTRO 12613 Taylorsville Rd., 261-0222. Boombozz wins praise for exceptionally high quality pizza and other quick Italian-style fare. Tony’s pizzas include both traditional pies and gourmet-style specialties that have won awards in national competition. $$ L D hp BOOMBOZZ PIZZA & TAP HOUSE 1448 Bardstown Rd., 458-8889, 1315 Herr Ln., 394-0000. The Boombozz Pizza empire has expanded in concept, and the menu now extends into appetizers, sandwiches and pasta, and 21 craft beers on tap. The Highlands location boasts one of the only “frost bars” in the area — a refrigerated rail designed to keep your brew cool. $$ L D hpf BORROMEO’S PIZZA 9417 Smyrna Pkwy., 9687743. Serving up old-school thin-crust pizzas to chowhounds south of the Gene Snyder. $$ L D h CALIFORNIA PIZZA KITCHEN 7900 Shelbyville Rd. (Oxmoor Mall), 425-5125. California pizza became a trend when famous chefs gave this simple Italian fare a multi-ethnic spin with non-traditional Pacific Rim toppings. CPK successfully translates this trend for the mass market. $$ L D pf CHARLESTOWN PIZZA COMPANY 850 Main St., Charlestown IN, 256-2699. This welcoming venue on Charlestown’s town square, a short trip upriver from Jeffersonville, is run by folks who learned their pizza and beer at New Albanian Brewing Company. That’s a fine pedigree, and it shows in impressive quality. $$ L D

named their own pizzeria after their grandfather, Francis Xavier. In addition to hand-tossed thincrust, New York-style pies, FX offers chicken wings and breadsticks, and its owners are planning a nine-hole miniature golf course. $$ L D FAT DADDY’S PIZZA 10619 Manslick Rd., 363-7551. $$ L D h FAT JIMMY’S 2712 Frankfort Ave., 891-4555, 12216 Shelbyville Rd., 244-2500. This friendly neighborhood nook offers a cold mug of beer and a hot slice of pizza, along with sub sandwiches, pasta dishes and salads. The Lyndon spot lures a friendly biker crowd. $$ L D h FROLIO’S PIZZA 3799 Poplar Level Rd., 456-1000. Just around the corner from the Louisville Zoo, Frolio’s is a neighborhood pizzeria with a cozy, dim Italian-American mood and an all-you-can-eat pizza-and-salad lunch special. $$ L D h HOMETOWN PIZZA 11804 Shelbyville Rd., 2454555. Pasta dishes, hoagies, stromboli and cold beer are available, and so is the one-of-a-kind Bacon Cheeseburger pizza. $$ L D h IROQUOIS PIZZA 6614 Manslick Rd., 363-3211. $$ L D h JOHNNY BRUSCO’S PIZZA 10600 Meeting St., 749-8400. The Kansas City chain has opened its first location in Kentucky, in Norton Commons, offering New York style pies, subs, calzones, pasta and salads. $$ L D JOHNNY V’S 10509 Watterson Trail, 267-0900. $$ L D hp KENNA’S KORNER 4111 Murphy Ln., 426-8340. $$ L D he LA BOCCA PIZZERIA 2708 Paoli Pike, Floyds Knobs IN, 945-7711. Going northwest from I-265 you will find the latest in pizza choices at La Bocca, which is Italian for “the mouth.” You can fill your “bocca” with daily specials, such as Buffalo pizza, calzones, heroes, wraps or salads. Mangia, mangia! $$ L D p

LITTLE CAESAR’S PIZZA (9 Locations) This Detroit-based pizzeria chain lost market share in the ’90s, but business analysts say the company known for its two-for-one “pizza pizza” deal has turned things around with a renewed commitment to quality and service. $$ L D h LOUI LOUI’S AUTHENTIC DETROIT STYLE PIZZA 10212 Taylorsville Rd., 266-7599. Detroit style? It’s a fluffy-deep-crusted rectangular pie baked a good while to give the crust crispiness. Detroit native Michael Spurlock used to make road trips to satisfy a sick friend’s cravings, then made a study of it, and now brings it to the old Ferd Grisanti location in J’town. $$ L D hp e LOUISVILLE PIZZA CO. 3910 Ruckriegel Pkwy., 2671188. Also known as Chubby Ray’s, this local pizzeria makes good, fresh pizzas and Italian-American sandwiches. $$$ L D hpf LUIGI’S 712 W. Main St., 589-0005. New York Citystyle pizza, a treat that you’ll find on just about every street corner there, has been making inroads in River City, but Luigi’s was one of the first to offer in its authentic form here. $$ L MA ZERELLAS 949 S. Indiana Ave., Sellersburg IN, 246-9517. Pleasant family-run-for-family-fun establishments. Pizza, pasta, salads and subs served for lunch and dinner seven days a week. $$ L D h MELLOW MUSHROOM 3920 Shelbyville Rd., 4096874, 805 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 244-6112. This small pizza/calzone/hoagie/salad chain touts its stoner origins, as the chain’s name, and some of its offerings such as magic mushroom soup and Maui Wowie pizza, imply. Though a chain, each outlet tries to be funky in an individualistic, local way. $$ LDp MR. GATTI’S 703 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 283-5005, 8594 Dixie Hwy., 935-0100, 1108 Lyndon Ln., 339-8338, 4200 Outer Loop, 964-0920.

CHEEZY’S PIZZA 801 E. Market St., Jeffersonville IN, 288-8500. Fans of the former Tubby’s Pizza and owner Tubby Muncy can smile again. He’s back in the kitchen in a little local pizza joint just east of downtown J’ville, serving up well crafted traditional pies whole or by the slice. $$ L D h CLIFTON’S PIZZA 2230 Frankfort Ave., 893-3730. One of the originators of “Louisville style” of pizza, with additional toppings placed over the cheese. The venerable Clifton’s Pizza appeals with its adult style, full of the bold flavors of herbs and spices and available with grown-up toppings like anchovies and artichoke hearts. $$ L D hpe COALS ARTISAN PIZZA 3730 Frankfort Ave., 7428200. The coal-fired oven bakes at 1000 degrees F, charring and crisping the crust in 4 minutes. The dough rises for three days, making for a lighter, more developed crust. Topping are fresh, regionallysourced, with specialty concepts. Look for local craft beers and house-made soups and salads in addition to pizzas. $$ L D hpf DANNY MAC’S PASTA & PIZZA 1567 S. Shelby St., 635-7994. $$ L D h DIORIO’S PIZZA & PUB 310 Wallace Ave., 6183424, 917 Baxter Ave., 614-8424. With a second location now, Highlands’ as well as St. Matthews’ residents can savor pizza by the slice, as well as by the mammoth 30-inch pie. Also grilled sandwiches, salads, wings, and queso sticks, and a good selection of domestic and import beers. $$ L D

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FX PIZZA 4865 Old Vincennes Rd., Floyds Knobs IN, 903-0086. The Newton brothers of Southern Indiana, veterans of the corporate chain pizza world, have

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

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This Austin-based chain was one of the first national pizzerias to reach Louisville in the 1970s, and quality ingredients — plus Gattiland playgrounds for the kids — have made its crisp, thin-crust pizzas a popular draw for nearly 30 years. $$ L D MUCHO QUESO PIZZERIA 2208 Bardstown Rd., 479-1040. $$ L D h NEW ALBANIAN BREWING CO. 3312 Plaza Dr., New Albany IN, 944-2577. Touting “the best pizza in Southern Indiana” is quite a boast, but pizza only tells half of this tasty story. NABC combines the fine pies of Sportstime Pizza with the pub formerly known as Rich O’s. Publican Roger Baylor’s remarkable beer list, with more than 100 selections from around the world — plus locally brewed craft beers — has won international awards. A pizza like the famous “Herbivore” (spinach, sliced tomatoes and roasted garlic) makes a sizzling treat, with a world-class beer to wash it down. $$ L D h OLD CHICAGO PASTA & PIZZA 9010 Taylorsville Rd., 301-7700, 10601 Fischer Park Dr., 657-5700. This growing chain specializes in both thick Chicago-style and thin traditional pizza, plus an imposing list of 110 beers from around the world. $$ L D hp ORIGINAL IMPELLIZZERI’S 1381 Bardstown Rd., 454-2711, 4933 Brownsboro Rd., 425-9080, 110 W. Main St., 589-4900. Impellizzeri’s pizzas, massive pies loved for a generation, can now be scarfed down near the new arena on Main, in addition to its Highlands and Brownsboro Road locations. $$$$ L D hpf PAPA JOHN’S PIZZA (30 locations) “Papa” John Schnatter got into the pizza game as a Southern Indiana high-school student in 1984 and has built his business into a 3,000-restaurant international chain on the basis of a simple formula: traditional pizza, made from quality ingredients in a straightforward style. $ L D h PAPA MURPHY’S PIZZA (11 Locations) $$ L D PAPALINOS 947 Baxter Ave., 749-8515. Former restaurant chef turned pizza guy Allan Rosenberg continues to satisfy his Highlands customers with his crispy-crust New York-style pizzas with premium, made in-house toppings. Take home an 18-inch pies, scarf down an oversized slice for a snack, or make a meal from the calzones, breadsticks and short list of salads and desserts. $ L D h PERFETTO PIZZA 9910 Linn Station Rd., 426-4644. Located in the old Slice of NY space off S. Hurstbourne Parkway, Perfetto carries on the New York style tradition: pies by the slice, just like on Flatbush Ave. Hand-tossed crust, all kinds of toppings, plus Italian sausage and meatball sandwiches. $$ L D PIZZA DONISI 1396 S. Second St., 387-7374. Exactly what Old Louisville needs: a good pizza joint. Located next to the Magnolia Bar & Grill, this pizzeria serves walk up and dine-in customers, many of whom are hungry students living in the area. PIZZA KING 3825 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 945-4405, 1066 Kehoe Ln., Jeffersonville IN, 2828286. The pizza is baked in a sturdy, clay stone oven and hand-tossed with thinner crust where the ingredients go all the way to the edge. $$ L D PIZZA PLACE 2931 Richland Ave., 458-9700. $$ L D

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PLEASURE RIDGE PIZZA AND SPORTS BAR 5603 Greenwood Rd., 933-7373. $$ L D hpf PUCCINI’S SMILING TEETH 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 721-0170. A small but growing pizza chain based in Indianapolis opens its first Louisville property on Shelbyville Road. Thin pizza by the slice and other Italian-American dishes are served in an attractive setting that’s a cut above fast food. $$ L D ROCKY’S PIZZA & PANINI 3022 Bardstown Rd., 6908500. Need a quick lunch, and have a hankering for 74 Summer 2013 www.foodanddine.com

the classic Italian subs and pizzas that you have enjoyed for decades at Rocky’s? Now you can get them quick and to go at this counter-service only branch in the outer edge of the Highlands. $ L D hpf ROCKY’S SUB PUB 715 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 282-3844. Rocky’s is reinventing itself by going back to its roots. Gone is the “Italian Grill” appellation, and back is the Sub Pub theme, along with a growing selection of craft and import beers and a select choice of Italian-American entrées. Go to enjoy a pizza, some baked ziti or chicken parmigiana and some hoppy draft. $ L D hpf ROSIE’S PIZZA 13829 English Villa Dr., 244-2484. This Middletown pizzeria has been wowing customers for a while with its store-made crusts, and wide choice of toppings. Fans seem to go for the Whole Lot of Rosie, and the Hot Knots. $$ L D SAL’S PIZZA & WINGS 812 Lyndon Ln., 365-4700. Pizza, calzones, chicken and salads join the food choices in the Lyndon strip mall that also houses other ethnic restaurants. $$ L D hpf SICILIAN PIZZA & PASTA 629 S. Fourth St., 5898686. Ready for takeout or eat-in, this downtown storefront offers good, standard pizza and other familiar Italian-American dishes. $$ L D hf SIR DANO’S PIZZA PARLOR 496 N. Indiana Ave., Sellersburg IN, 246-3346. $$ L D hf SNAPPY TOMATO 10000 Brownsboro Rd., 4126205. $$ L D SPINELLI’S PIZZERIA 614 Baxter Ave., 568-5665, 2905 Goose Creek Rd., 632-2832, 4001 Shelbyville Rd., 895-0755, 239 S. Fifth St., 749-0919. This locally-owned pizzeria, widely known for their massive pizza by the slice, has expanded into St. Matthews, and now downtown, too. All four locations are open until 5 a.m. nightly Wednesday through Saturday, offering Philly-style pizza and real Philly cheese steaks. $ L D h STUDIO PIZZA 1401 Veterans Pkwy, Clarksville IN, 288-6600. Owner Steve Baldwin serves up Chicagostyle pie, calzones and other tipico Italiano fare, with a performance stage ready for pro performers or karaoke. $$ L D TONY IMPELLIZZERI’S 5170 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 949-3000. Long-time Louisville pizzamaker moves across the river to fill the cravings of Hoosiers. $$$ D UNCLE MADDIO’S PIZZA JOINT 2011 Grinstead Dr., 690-8871. Finally the attractive space at the corner of Bardstown Rd. and Grinstead is luring some commercial occupants. The first restaurant in there is a pizza concept from the guys behind Moe’s Southwest Grill. Order at the counter from a range of custom choices and your pizza gets delivered to your table. $$ L D VITO’S PIZZA 1919 S. Preston St., 634-1003. A little neighborhood pizza pub on the edge of Germantown has been serving up its signature pies to neighbors and commuters who pick up pies before they get on nearby I-65 to head home. $$ L D hp WICK’S PIZZA PARLOR 975 Baxter Ave., 458-1828, 2927 Goose Creek Rd., 327-9425, 12717 Shelbyville Rd., 213-9425, 225 State St., New Albany IN, 945-9425, 9700 Bluegrass Pkwy., (Ramada Plaza) 409-4267. Wick’s wins popularity with a welcoming mix of good pizza, a quality beer list and a friendly neighborhood feel at all five of its eateries. The pies are straightforward, made with ample toppings. “The Big Wick” is a favorite. $$ L D hpfe ZA’S PIZZA 1573 Bardstown Rd., 454-4544. $$ L D hpf

321 DELI 321 W. Main St., 566-3258. This new delicatessen strives to blend the look and feel of a New York deli with the charm of the South. Expect nicely done sandwiches constructed from meats

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

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roasted in house, gourmet salads and sides to go. $ LDf ANOTHER PLACE SANDWICH SHOP 119 S. Seventh St., 589-4115. If you want to buy a car, go to a car dealer. To buy a carpet, patronize a carpet shop. And if you’ve got a sandwich on your to-do list, it makes sense to go to a sandwich shop. $ L BABY D’S BAGELS & DELI 2009 Highland Ave., 365-3354. This Highlands deli serves steamed bagel sandwiches and wraps, made with housesmoked and roasted meats. Look for funky sandwich names and desserts such as chocolatecovered bacon. $ B L D h BACKYARD BURGER 1800 Priority Way, 240-9945. The open flame at this counter-service diner provides the next best thing to a family cookout. Sandwiches, fresh salads, fruit cobblers and oldfashioned hand-dipped milkshakes enhance the nostalgic theme. $ L D

as the name implies. Breakfast means fresh bagels with an array of cream cheese, sausage, eggs and coffee. At lunchtime lines form for sandwiches — subs, panini, wraps, hot melts and cold cuts. $ B L DP UPDOGS 147 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 9480768. The long-lived but now defunct Little Chef diner at the corner of New Albany’s Market and Bank Streets has a new life and identity. Stop in for a variety of wiener concoctions, or an ice cream sandwich. $ f EINSTEIN BROTHERS BAGELS 320 W. Jefferson St. (Hyatt Regency), 217-6046. Nothing beats a bagel and a schmear of cream cheese — unless it’s a bagel, a schmear, and a generous slab of lox. For those who don’t live on bagels, a good selection of soups, salads and sandwiches offer quick sustenance at this branch of the national chain. $ B L f

HONEYBAKED CAFÉ 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 895-6001, 6423 Bardstown Rd., 239-9292, 3602 Northgate Crt., New Albany IN, 941-9426. Before holidays, you go in and carry out huge spiral-sliced hams or turkey breasts or beef roasts for your own parties. In the off season, you sit down in the café and order generous, filling sandwiches made from those same meats, served on rolls or croissants, cold or with a hot cheese melt. Soup and salads too. And cookies. $ L D JASON’S DELI 410 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 412-4101, 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 896-0150, 1975 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 493-4130. Don’t look for a New York kosherstyle deli at this Texas-based chain, but suburbanites are lining up at its multiple locations for oversize sandwiches, salads, wraps and more. $ L D f JERSEY MIKE’S SUBS AND SALADS 10266 Shelbyville Rd., 244-1991, 10519 Fischer Park Dr., 425-1025,

BOARDWALK FRESH BURGERS AND FRIES 2909 E. Tenth St., Jeffersonville IN, 725-0200. With outlets in 12 states, Boardwalk now brings their fresh fries and burgers concept to the Ohio Valley. A step up from fast food with large patties that can be dressed to one’s whim. $$ L D BRIAN’S DELI 531 S. Fourth St., 561-0098. Between Chestnut Street and Muhammad Ali Boulevard, Brian’s services the downtown lunch crowd with soup, salads, sandwiches and snacks. $ L f BRUEGGER’S BAGELS 119 Breckenridge Ln., 6181158. The bagel / deli sandwich chain has set up shop in the middle of St. Matthews, offering another quick breakfast and lunch option. Choose from bagels and breakfast sandwiches, muffins, panini, salads and soups. $ B L f BURGER BOY 1450 S. Brook, 635-7410. For a real slice of Louisville life, this weathered greasy spoon at the corner of Brook and Burnett is the real thing. Neighborhood denizens drink coffee and chow down on burgers and breakfast until the wee hours (the joint is open 24 hours). If Louisville is home to a budding Charles Bukowski, there’s a good chance he’s sitting at their counter right now, recovering from last night’s excesses. $ B L D h BUTCHER’S BEST 9521 US Hwy. 42., 365-4650. This fully staffed meat store in Prospect offers customcut beef, lamb, pork, bison, chicken and veal, plus a well-stocked deli and specialty foods, with skilled butcher Jimmy Mike at the helm. $ L D f CAT BOX DELI 500 W. Jefferson St., 561-6259. The name of this cozy downtown deli in the PNC Bank building might warrant a double-take, but its feline theme and kitty cartoons earn a smile. Open for breakfast and lunch, it offers a good selection of sandwiches, panini and wraps at budget prices. $ L CHEF MARIA’S GREEK DELI 102 Fairfax Ave., 8957075. $ L D DANISH EXPRESS PASTRIES 102 1/2 Cannons Ln., 895-2863. Just a few tables turn this takeout nook into a sit-in breakfast and lunch spot for a handful of diners at a time. Full breakfasts and light lunches are available, but as the name implies, Danish pastries are the specialty, and they’re fine. $ B L DEVINO’S 104 W. Main St., 569-3939. This stylish deli offers another lunch and dinner option downtown. Sandwiches are made from quality Boar’s Head meats and cheeses cut on the premises, with dining inside and on the patio; package beer and wine is also available. $ L D f DIZZY WHIZZ DRIVE-IN 217 W. St. Catherine St., 5833828. This neighborhood eatery is an institution. It goes back more than 50 years and hasn’t changed much. It opens early and stays open late and offers good value for what you’d expect. $ L D hf DOOLEY’S BAGELCATESSEN 2415 Lime Kiln Ln., 426-3354. This convenient deli specializes in bagels,

THE FEED BAG 133 Breckenridge Ln., 896-1899. The grilled salmon burger is worth the visit, as well as the Triple Crown wrap with three meats or a fresh veggie wrap. Soups, desserts top off the lunch-only schedule. $ L FIREHOUSE SUBS 215 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 3653473. This national chain touts that they steam their meat and cheese sandwiches. Specialty subs carry out the Firehouse theme and the kids meals include a little fire helmet. $ L D FRASCELLI’S NEW YORK DELI & PIZZERIA 4113 Murphy Ln., 243-9005. This shop offers Italian-style deli sandwiches and pizza, plus home-style Italian hot dishes from lasagna to baked ziti. $ L D hf GREAT LIFE CAFÉ 9565 Taylorsville Rd., 297-8807, 9463 Westport Rd., 420-0707, 951 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 284-5624. This small but growing local chain, founded by Steve and Jill Mazzoni and their friend Jason McCune, specializes in health and nutrition supplements and vitamins. $ B L D

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

9156 Taylorsville Rd., 499-9830. East Coast-style sub shop with local faves that includes cheese, ham, prosciuttini, capicola, salami, pepperoni and fixings. $ L D JIMMY JOHN’S SUB SHOP 976 Baxter Ave., 587-0550, 4000 Shelbyville Rd., 894-3331, 3901 Dutchmans Ln., 894-9393, 415 W. Jefferson St., 625-7101, 301 E. Market St., 587-7888, 1321 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 425-4515, 3001 Charlestown Crossing Way, New Albany IN, 725-8580, 1116 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 288-6700, 12903 Shelbyville Rd., 384-8884, 341 W. Cardinal Blvd., 634-3334. This national sandwich-shop chain offers a wide selection of over stuffed subs that benefit from fresh quality ingredients. But what sets them apart from the rest is their value — and they deliver. $ L D f LENNY’S SUB SHOP 3942 Taylorsville Rd., 454-7831. Another semi-national chain, covering mostly the South and Midwest, brings a selection of familiar subs, sandwiches and salads to Louisville diners eager for more standardized semi-fast food. $ L D f www.facebook.com/foodanddine Summer 2013 75

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LIL’ CHEEZERS 938 Baxter Ave., 409-7424. The food truck specializing in sort-of upscale grilled cheese sandwiches has added a brick and mortar spot in the Highlands. Its specialties include caprese grilled cheese (tomato and mozzarella) and a Fancy Pants that includes Brie, caramelized onions, apple and walnuts. $ L D hf LONNIE’S BEST TASTE OF CHICAGO 121 St. Matthews Ave., 895-2380, 8129 Preston Hwy., 5093640. This appetizing operation offers genuine Chicago hot dogs and a taste of Chicago atmosphere for a price that won’t hurt your wallet. A second location brings the Windy City fare to Okolona. $ L D f LOTSA PASTA 3717 Lexington Rd., 896-6361. A Louisville pioneer in gourmet cheeses, oils, dips, hummus and, of course, pasta. They are mainly an eclectic specialty-food store but fans stand threedeep at the sandwich counter every afternoon. And next door is a comfortable place to have coffee and pastry or to eat your sandwich. $ L D f MAIN EATERY 643 W. Main St., 589-3354. Smack dab in the middle of the Main Street historic district, this fashionable deli lures the savvy business midday crowd. $ L MAIN STREET CAFÉ 217 E. Main St., 992-8080. This ambitious little downtown place offers a range of breakfasts choices from light pastries and yogurt to omelets, waffles, and, thought fully, pie for breakfast (changes seasonally). For lunch look for sandwiches made from housesmoked and cured pastrami, sorghum bacon and other artisanal foods, as well as daily specials on soups, and a Kentucky farmer-inspired seasonal salad. $ B L f MCALISTER’S DELI 10041 Forest Green Blvd., 4258900, 2721 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 671-2424, 2400 Lime Kiln Ln., 339-8544, 6510 Bardstown Rd., 2399997, 12911 Shelbyville Rd., 244-5133, 1305 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 282-3354, 1200 S. Floyd St. (U of L), 825-2285, 4677 Outer Loop, 969-3328, 980 Breckenridge Ln., 895-1698. Emphasizing quality customer service, this delicatessen ladles up such soups as gumbo and chicken tortilla along with cutting board favorites. They have a special way with a tumbler of sweet iced tea. $ L D MORRIS DELI & CATERING 2228 Taylorsville Rd., 458-1668, 555 S. Second St. (YMCA building), 5872353. Many locals still know this small, popular Highlands deli as Karem Deeb’s after its longtime previous owner. Mostly for takeout — it packs in a few crowded tables — it’s known for high-quality, hand-made deli fare. A second location is now open in the YMCA downtown. $ L NANCY’S BAGEL BOX 651 S. Fourth St., 589-4004. An outpost of Nancy’s Bagel Grounds in Clifton, this little outlet, inside Theater Square Marketplace, offers a similar mix of light fare and Nancy’s unique take on the bagel. $ B L NANCY’S BAGEL GROUNDS 2101 Frankfort Ave., 895-8323. A friendly and casual neighborhood gathering spot. Offerings include soups, snacks, coffee drinks and bagels made on the premises to its own rather idiosyncratic formula. $ B L f OLLIE’S TROLLEY 978 S. Third St., 583-5214. A little piece of fast-food history remains on an urban street corner in Old Louisville. It’s one of the nation’s few surviving trolleys of the Louisvillebased chain that spread across the nation in the ’70s. Oversize burgers with a spicy, homemade flavor are just as good as ever. $ L PANERA BREAD CO. 7900 Shelbyville Rd. (Oxmoor Mall), 899-9992, 6221 Dutchmans Ln., 895-9991, 601 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 423-7343, 10451 Champion Farms Dr., 426-2134, 3131 Poplar Level Rd., 635-9164, 1040 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 288-9400, 400 W. Market St., 540-5250, 1801 Rudy Ln., 710-0297, 1534 Bardstown Rd., 459-8160. 76 Summer 2013 www.foodanddine.com

Warm breads finish-baked on the premises make a tasty base for a variety of sandwiches. Soups, salads, coffee drinks and a free WiFi hotspot make Panera’s outlets popular gathering places. $ B L D f PAUL’S FRUIT MARKET 3922 Chenoweth Sq., 8968918, 4946 Brownsboro Rd., 426-5070, 12119 Shelbyville Rd., 253-0072, 3704 Taylorsville Rd., 456-4750. One of Louisville’s popular sources for produce, cheeses, deli items, and the like. Deli sandwiches and salads are available (takeout only). $ L D PENN STATION (17 Locations). Billed as the East Coast Sub Headquarters, this sandwich kitchen does a brisk business here in the Louisville area. $ L D POTBELLY SANDWICH SHOP 302 S. Fourth St., 5401100. The Chicago-based chain has set up shop along the quick-lunch row just north of 4th Street Live.The Louisville location is run by two escapees from the financial services world who depended on Chicago Potbelly sandwiches to get them through grueling trading sessions. $ L D QUIZNO’S SUBS (7 locations) Toasted breads, a sandwich selection of meats, veggies and fish are built to fight hunger. Fresh soups are available daily, from chili to chowder; so are salads and desserts. $ L RED’S COMFORT FOOD 514 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 587-7337. Across from Louisville Gardens, “Red” offers gourmet wieners and sausages, chicken barbecue topped with coleslaw and vegetarian side dishes, many made with locally sourced products. Red closes for the winter, though, so his fans have to wait til spring. $ L f SAE CAFÉ 200 S. Seventh St., 585-3400. This spunky downtown breakfast and lunch place has goals of serving more healthful — and tasty — choices. Muffins and other breakfast pastries are by Najla’s, a Louisville baker that uses no trans-fats, corn syrup or preservatives. The sandwiches have clever names — Angry Bob, Hail to the Chief, Mexi Mama wrap and the Knuckle sandwich — and there are also salads and daily soup specials. $ B L SCHLOTZSKY’S DELI 10531 Fischer Park Dr., 4258447. The original Schlotzsky’s offered just one kind of sandwich — “The Original” — when it opened its first eatery in Austin, Texas, in 1971. Now this national chain vends a full selection of deli-style fare, with one significant improvement on the traditional deli: the servers are invariably polite. $ B L D f SCOTTY’S VILLAGE MARKET 10640 Meeting St., 384-6338. A grocery store and deli joins the retail mix at Norton Commons. In keeping with the Village theme, the store will evoke the feel and ambience of the old local grocery, in addition to doing on-site baking, smoking meats, and offering full to-go dinners. $ L D f SHADY LANE CAFÉ 4806 Brownsboro Center, 8935118. Another attractive East End storefront, Shady Lane Café, has been earning good reviews for simple breakfast and lunch fare served in friendly surroundings. $ Br L f THE STARVING ARTIST CAFÉ & DELI 8034 New Lagrange Rd., 412-1599. $ L STEVENS & STEVENS 1114 Bardstown Rd., 5843354. This authentic New York-style deli occupies the rear third of the Ditto’s space in the heart of the Highlands. Take out or eat in one of the booths, you’ll get piled-high pastrami, brisket and corned beef and you’ll love lox and a schmear on your bagel — even if you don’t know what a schmear is. $ L SUB STATION II 3101 Fern Valley Rd., 964-1075. The hardy No. 19, a six-meat-and-cheese super sub, keeps the store buzzing. An array of sandwiches, salad sides and desserts fill out an appetizing lunch menu. $ L D TC’S SANDWICH SHOPPE 438 W. Market St., 5819200. $ L

THORNBERRY’S DELI & PIES 5103 S. Third St., 367-8394. $ L TOM+CHEE 1704 Bardstown Rd., 409-9494, 319 W. Cardinal Blvd., 749-2299. The Cincinnati-based soup and sandwich chain now has two locations, with a third in the works.Its hook is serving many variations on grilled cheese sandwiches (including a grilled cheese donut that has gained TV notoriety) and tomato (and other) soups. Daily specials augment the 15 core menu choices. $ L D f W.W. COUSINS RESTAURANT 900 Dupont Rd., 897-9684. This locally owned and operated eatery looks a lot like the national Fuddruckers chain, but the local boys do a better job, with huge burgers on magisterial home-baked buns and a Metropolitan Museum of toppings. $ L D h WALL ST. DELI 225 Abraham Flexner Way (Jewish Hospital), 585-4202. Offering New York style with Kentucky flair, this busy downtown deli will serve in-house diners or take orders for deliveries. Authentic Nathan’s Hot Dogs are a specialty. $ L D ZOUP! 318 S. Fourth St., 963-0777. Another chain outlet downtown gives all the lawyers and government workers another choice for soups, sandwiches and salads, plenty of low-fat, dairy-free and vegetarian choices that will rotate daily. $ L D

B3Q BBQ 1044 Copperfield Drive, Georgetown IN, 951-3900. Ribs, pulled pork and beef brisket, served up as sandwiches, wraps or platters. Also, smoked baloney and chicken, smoked turkey and sirloin tips, and plenty of side choices. Dine-in, carry-out and catering available. $ L D f BLUEGRASS BBQ 119 Saint Matthews Ave., 8933111. Taking over the space vacated by the Neighborhood Café, this tiny BBQ joint in the heart of St. Matthews offers the usual smoked meats: pulled pork and brisket, chicken and ribs, and a panoply of side dishes. $ L D BOOTLEG BARBECUE COMPANY 9704 Bardstown Rd., 239-2722, 7508 Preston Hwy., 968-5657. Bootleg Barbecue offers a touch of rusticity and a good helping of country hospitality, as it dishes out hearty portions of well-prepared and affordable smoked meats and fixin’s. It’s one of the few places in Louisville where you can get Western Kentuckystyle mutton barbecue. $ L D f BRANDON’S BBQ & PIZZA 9901 LaGrange Rd., 426-6666. Featuring hickory-smoked Tennesseestyle barbecue sandwiches and filling, affordable dinners. $ L D DERBY CITY BBQ AND CATERING 2932 S. Fourth St., 690-4204. $ L D DUVALLE GRUB-N-SCRUB 3501 Cane Run Rd., 7721277. Pull into this Shively carwash and get some Boss Hog’s BBQ while the boys detail your wheels. Ribs and rib tips, chicken wings, hamburgers, pulled pork and chicken, milk shakes, and soft serve cones. $LD FAMOUS DAVE’S BAR-B-QUE 8605 Citadel Way, 493-2812, 1360 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 282-3283. This franchise chain operation may be based in the twin cities, but it looks like a Georgia gas station with its exuberant, if tongue-in-cheek faux country decor. The important thing, though, is the food, and Dave’s excels with genuine, hickory-smoked barbecue. $$ L D hpf FEAST BBQ 116 W. Main St., New Albany IN, 9200454. Owner Ryan Rogers, graduate of the French Culinary Institute, brings a modernist sensibility to the age-old art of barbecue. He works out formulas for brining times, and trusts the electronic circuitry of his high-tech smoker to keep the temps low and keep the smoke from overwhelming he meats. He also boasts one of the largest selections of Bourbon in southern Indiana. $ L D hpf

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

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FIRE FRESH BBQ 211 S. Fifth St., 540-1171. Fire fighters, it is said, eat heartily and well. It’s no coincidence, then, that Fire Fresh BBQ pays homage to local fire departments in its restaurant’s decor. The barbecue and country fixin’s stand comparison to the best firehouse cuisine. $ L D FRANKFORT AVENUE BEER DEPOT 3204 Frankfort Ave., 895-3223. A neighborhood bar that welcomes all comers with some of the most notable ’cue in town. The burgoo and the baked beans rank as some of the best in the city and the pulled pork by the pound is value worth taking home. $ L D pf HARLEY’S HARDWOODZ BAR-B-Q 1703 CharlestownNew Albany Pk., Jeffersonville IN, 284-4490. Owner Frank Harley said “I found my calling, which is barbecue.” He smokes up barbecue pork, chicken and brisket, marinated in Harley’s own barbecue sauce. A menu specialty: smoked chicken white chili. $ L D HICKORY HOUSE BBQ & CATERING 2307 S. Preston St., 634-9111. $ L D f JUCY’S SMOKEHOUSE BAR-B-QUE 7626 New Lagrange Rd., 241-5829. Jucy’s offers exceptionally good Texas-style barbecue from a little wooden shack that looks just like a country BBQ joint should. Highly recommended. $$ L D f MARK’S FEED STORE 11422 Shelbyville Rd., 2440140, 1514 Bardstown Rd., 458-1570, 10316 Dixie Hwy., 933-7707, 3827 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 285-1998, 6501 Bardstown Rd., 442-0808. Mark Erwin started this chain in an old Hancock’s Feed Store. Today, Mark’s routinely takes local honors for its sauces, sandwiches and its meaty baby-back ribs. And don’t miss the smoked takehome turkeys at Thanksgiving. $$ L D h f MOMMA’S MUSTARD PICKLES & BBQ 102 Bauer Ave., 938-6262. The Okie owner of this new spot brings Kansas City barbecue to St. Matthews. Knot on your bib for smoked ribs, brisket, chicken, pulled pork and all the standard sides. Lots of hefty party packs perfect to-go options. $$ D f OLE HICKORY PIT BAR-B-QUE 6106 Shepherdsville Rd., 968-0585. Located in an attractive house not far from General Electric’s Appliance Park, this Louisville relative of a famous Western Kentucky barbecue pit is well worth the trip. $ L D f PINK BARON BBQ 400 W. Court Ave., 835-7361. $LD PIT STOP BAR-B-QUE 13303 Magisterial Dr., 2536740. This familiar old local brand, long a downtown fixture, now offers its smokey Texas barbecue in an East End industrial park just off the Gene Snyder Freeway and Old Henry Road. $ L D RITE WAY BAR-B-CUE HOUSE 1548 W. St. Catherine St., 584-9385. Open since 1943, this West End landmark in a one-time neighborhood grocery, offers exceptional urban barbecue, including ribs that rank with the city’s best. $ L D RIVER ROAD BBQ 3017 River Rd., 592-7065. Right next to the Water Tower, this little take-out only place smokes brisket and pork: some days one sells out, on other days the other. Winter hours are 116 or until the meat runs out. Potato salad, slaw and drinks. Buy it by sandwich or by the pound. $ L D ROB-A-QUE 4712 Pinewood Rd., 618-3007. Owner Rob Bailey was a hobbyist BBQ competitor for years until selling his share in a family tool business to turn pro. His smoked meats reflect a Kansas Citystyle of ‘cue, and his side dishes are numerous. Check it out for lunch, to-go or catering. $ L f RUBBIE’S SOUTHSIDE GRILL & BAR 6905 Southside Dr., 367-0007. This South End family knows how to do BBQ. It may be off the beaten path for some folks but here you’ll find a bounty of secret BBQ recipes. $ L D hpfe SCOTTY’S RIBS AND MORE 14049 Shelbyville Rd., 244-6868. Ribs, pork, chicken a la carte and dinners.

The small East End venue moves a lot of pizzas and salads as well. $$ L D hp

chili, salads, burgers, sandwiches, subs and pastas. And beer. $$ L D hpfe

SHACK IN THE BACK BBQ 406 Mt. Holly Rd., 3633227. This Fairdale institution since 2004 smokes and serves slow-smoked pulled pork, brisket, ribs and a dozen sides (including Nanny’s potato salad) from an 1896 log house. House specialty is hickory-grilled steaks on Friday and Saturday nights. $ L D fe

BROWNIE’S THE SHED GRILLE & BAR 237 Whittington Pkwy., 326-9830. Restaurant owner and namesake Keith Brown used to host neighborhood gatherings in a shed at his home. Now he brings the same sociable concept to his pub and eatery. Louisville’s official home for Cincy Bengals fans, Brownie’s may be the closest thing Hurstbourne has to a Germantown neighborhood saloon. $ L D hpfe

SHANE’S RIB SHACK 2420 Lime Kiln Ln., 429-3907. “Rib” may be its middle name, but you can also fill up on wings, chicken tenders, sandwiches and more at this growing Atlanta-based chain. $$ L D f SMOKEHOUSE BBQ 5414 Bardstown Rd., 239-4422. This smokery on Bardstown Road just past Hurstbourne offers baby back and spare ribs, pulled pork, brisket, chicken and burgers, along with home-cooked sides like collard greens, sweet potato fries and onion loaf. Finish off with a coconut cream pie or chocolate cobbler. $$ L D p SMOKETOWN USA 1153 Logan St., 409-9180. The name “Smoketown” points to the restaurant’s location in this legendary midtown neighborhood, while signaling there’s consistently fine and cleverly fused Memphis- and Texas-style barbecue to be found here. Irrepressible owner Eric Gould maintains his neighborhood spot also is about vegetarian food and yard sales, and everything in the store is for sale (artwork on the walls, furniture, even the salt shakers, just make an offer). You’ll also find live entertainment three nights weekly. $$ L D f SMOKEY BONES BBQ 2525 Hurstbourne Gem Ln., 491-7570. A property of Orlando’s Darden fastfood chain, which also runs Olive Garden and Red Lobster, this noisy Stony Brook-area eatery conveys more of a sports-bar than barbecue concept, but the ribs are fine. $$ L D hp TEXICANS BBQ PIT 6608 Hwy. 146, Crestwood. 2419227. A small, neighborhood place just off I-71 in Crestwood pleases fans with standard barbecue fare — pulled pork, brisket and ribs — as well as smoked sausage, chicken and boneless chops. Cinnamon apples join the usual side selection of green beans, slaw and mac and cheese. $ L D

30 RED SPORTS SALOON 9601 Newbridge Rd., 6903050. Fern Creek gets a lively new sports bar — lots of TVs — with Happy Hour specials on food and drink, and solid bar food — cheese quesadillas and mini-corn dogs, burgers, wings and fried fish sandwich. The Roulette Wheel is your choice of three appetizers, meant for sharing. $$ L D hp BAXTER’S 942 BAR & GRILL 942 Baxter Ave., 4099422. This recent addition to the Baxter corridor, offers bar food, luring both rockers and good ol’ boys with a combination of rock and country and western in its music plan. $ L D hpfe BEEF O’BRADY’S 241 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 254-2322, 5628 Bardstown Rd., 239-2226, 3101 S. Second St., 637-3737, 105 LaFollette Ct., 923-1316, 1450 Veterans Pkwy., Jeffersonville IN, 285-9464, 5501 Valley Station Rd., 933-5919, 11324 Preston Hwy., 966-8515. If you think your basic sports pub is only suitable for guys guzzling beer, take another look: Beef O’Brady’s puts the “family” in “family sports pub,” offering a wholesome environment. $ L D hf BIG AL’S BEERITAVILLE 1715 Mellwood Ave., 8934487. Good people, good food, cold beer: The sign out front says it all, and we might add “cool atmosphere” in praise of this small but friendly Butchertown oasis. $ L D hpf THE BREWERY 426 Baxter Ave., 365-2505. First renovated in 1984, including the antique bar from the old Kunz’s, the original owners are back from a decade-long hiatus serving wings and calamari,

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

BUD’S TAVERN GOOD FOOD & BARBECUE 4014 Dixie Hwy., 384-9131. New ownership has spiffed up this Shively outpost now offering honest bar food that’s receiving high praise. Check out the “gently fried” grouper, burgers (including a Rueben burger), burritos and barbecue. $ L D hpfe BUFFALO WILD WINGS (BW-3’S) 6801 Dixie Hwy., 935-1997, 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 899-7732, 9134 Taylorsville Rd., 499-2356, 3584 Springhurst Blvd., 394-9596, 12901 Shelbyville Rd., 254-9464, 1055 Bardstown Rd., 454-3635, 1112 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 283-9464. As much a sports bar as a restaurant, this national franchise chain offers tasty snack-type fare, including the chain’s trademark Buffalo chicken wings. $$ L D hpf BUNGALOW JOE’S BAR & GRILL 7813 Beulah Church Rd., 931-5637. A “family friendly sports bar and grill” in the Fern Creek area sports 23 HDTVs including a 5- by 7-foot HD projector for 3D football viewing, a game room for kids, and plenty of wings, shrimp, burgers and beer. $$ L D hpfe CHAMPIONS SPORTS BAR AND GRILL 280 W. Jefferson St. (Louisville Marriott), 671-4246. Another popular option at the striking downtown Marriott, Champions provides a fun, casual dining alternative with a Kentucky sports theme — and a gallery of big-screen televisions to keep the sports action flowing as freely as the libations and upscale pub grub. $$ L D hp CHAMPPS AMERICANA 302 Bullitt Ln., 394-7620. The Fox & Hound sports bar concept wasn’t quite working at this Oxmoor location, so its Wichita owners are trying another sports bar concept. If you like “big, made-from-scratch burgers piled sky high, big selection of ice-cold beers and big … no, massive screens on the walls,” it’s your kind of place. $$$ L D hp CLARK’S LYNDON VILLAGE PUB 813 Lyndon Ln., 290-7334. This sports bar-music venue highbred features Clark, a guitarist himself, joining musicians on stage for frequent jam sessions. Daily bar specials run the gamut of wine, spirits and beer for sports fans who also can catch games on its nine flatscreen TVs. In addition to the usual sliders and wings, the menu includes a fried bologna and bacon, egg and cheese sandwich. $$ L D hpfe CLUCKERS WINGS 4308 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 944-8100, 100 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 590-3662, 313 W. Cardinal Blvd., 365-1665. At this growing chain, you can get your wings doused in an array of sauces, from honey barbecue to spicy garlic barbecue to sweet Thai chili to inferno — a habanero-based sauce that has a legit name. Also breaded and grilled tenders, chicken sandwiches, appetizers and salads. $ L D hpf DIAMOND PUB & BILLIARDS 3814 Frankfort Ave., 895-7513, 630 Barret Ave., 690-7040. $ L D

hpfe

DOWN ONE BOURBON BAR 321 W. Main St., 5663258. The new, yet rustic bar, situated down one flight below street level, stocks 100-plus Bourbons, local craft beer and serves wines by the glass. A small but clever bar menu offers burgers, sandwiches and more. $$ L D pfe DRAKE’S 3939 Shelbyville Rd., 614-7327, 3921 Summit Plaza Dr., 384-3921. Lexington-based Bluegrass www.facebook.com/foodanddine Summer 2013 77

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Hospitality Group now has two Louisville outlets, the first in the old Burdorf ’s building in St. Matthews and the second at The Summit. Twenty-four craft beers on tap to wash down the traditional pub grub of tacos, ribs and — these days — sushi. Family-friendly by day and a hoppin’ spot at night, with music videos and a DJ. $$ L D hpf FLANAGAN’S ALE HOUSE 934 Baxter Ave., 585-3700. Gourmet pizzas, hoagies, and an enormous beer selection draw Highlands folks to this cozy neighborhood pub. For a late night pizza (the kitchen’s open until 2 a.m.), it’s one of the best options in the city. $$ L D hpf FOUR KINGS CAFÉ 4642 Jennings Ln., 968-2930. Steam-table service featuring spaghetti and meatballs, lasagna and chicken attract a hungry lunch crowd at this casual spot, and brunch specialties are just as popular. $ L D p GERSTLE’S PLACE 3801 Frankfort Ave., 742-8616. A popular St. Matthews neighborhood tavern since 1924. Although dining is secondary to booze and sports here, the food goes well beyond mere pub grub. $ L D hpfe GRANVILLE INN 1601 S. Third St., 637-9128. A longtime gathering place for U of L students, faculty and fans, this sturdy redbrick tavern just north of the university campus offers a good variety of bar munchies, sandwiches and simple grilled fare plus pizza. It’s perhaps best known, though, for the signature Granville Burger, widely reputed as one of the best burgers in town. $ L D hp GREAT AMERICAN GRILL 2735 Crittenden Dr. (Hilton Garden Inn), 637-2424. Salads, burgers, pastas and sandwiches are available for the casual diner; main entrées include New York strip, filet of salmon and more. $ Br D pf HIGHLANDS TAPROOM GRILL 1058 Bardstown Rd., 584-5222. Another nice choice for beer and

bar food along the B’town Rd. corridor, but with former Lilly’s chef Tommy Clemons at the helm the menu includes, but extends beyond, the usual beer cheese, chili and burgers. Look for the crabby patty, smoked shrimp scampi, or French toast sausage, house made with egg and maple syrup. The pulled pork spring rolls are on their way to becoming legendary. $$ L D hpfe HILLTOP TAVERN 1800 Frankfort Ave., 742-2908. The Skelton brothers (John is an alum of Seviche) have taken over this prime Clifton location, once the original location of Café Lou Lou. Their tavern fare is focused on barbecue, with pulled pork and beer-butt chicken specialties, along with hefty sandwiches (their meatloaf is a standout). $ D hp HITCHING POST INN 7314 Fegenbush Ln., 2394724. In addition to its full bar and beer garden, and lively conversation, the Hitching Post Inn offers an array of pub grub, including burgers, chicken tenders, and sandwiches. $ L D hpf HOOPS GRILL AND SPORTS BAR 6733 Strawberry Ln., 375-4667. The name says it all: sports, casual dining and good things to drink all find their natural meeting place at this friendly neighborhood spot where hot wings and hoops reign supreme. $ L D hpf JERSEY’S CAFÉ 1515 Lynch Ln., Clarksville IN, 2882100. Quality, affordable fare that goes well beyond pub grub to include an awesome smokehouse burger and barbecued ribs so tender, they say, that you can just tap the end of the bone on your plate, and the meat falls off. $ L D hpf JOHN O’BRYAN’S TAVERN 4123 Flintlock Dr., 4494940. $ B L D JR’S PUB 826 W. Main St., New Albany IN, 920-0030. Adding even more life to an increasingly busy New Albany downtown, this bar boasts live entertainment on weekends, a daily $1 draft beer pick, a full

menu including a daily $6 Blue Plate Special (think comfort foods like Salisbury steak and liver and onions), and an all-you-can-eat fish, fries and slaw choice. $$ L D hpfe KHALIL’S 10966 Dixie Hwy., 632-2227. A family sports bar in Valley Station boasts plenty of TVs, including some tabletop TVs in booths. Menu presents the usual bar food suspects — salads, wings, burgers — but the burgers are on pretzel buns. $ L D hp THE LIGHTHOUSE 202 Main St., Jeffersonville IN, 283-0077. This lighthouse has been a beacon of casual, home cooking and tavern environment for years. Daily specials, appetizers, chicken and fish baskets, salads and desserts round out the menu. $ L D pe MIKE’S TAVERN 3521 Paoli Pike, Floyds Knobs IN, 945-8915. A tavern that serves a full breakfast — eggs, bacon, hotcakes. For lunch, a varied 1/2-pound burger menu — jalapeno burger, bacon burger, mushroom burger — plus a 2-pounder that is free if it can be eaten in 60 minutes. Breakfast or lunch served anytime. $ L p NEW DIRECTION BAR & GRILL 2630 Chamberlain Ln., 243-8429. $ L D hpfe O-LINE SPORTS GRILL 2813 N Hurstbourne Pkwy., 384-6171. You can watch every game, every sport all year long, they claim. While you do, you can chow down a variety of bar food, such as the juicy Lucy cheese burger or nacho burger. The kids might like the mini-footballs, franks encased in pastry dough, fried and served with dipping sauces. $ L D hp RIVER CITY DRAFTHOUSE 1574-1/2 Bardstown Rd., 690-5111. Another beer joint along the Bardstown Road corridor boasts more than 20 taps concerned on independent, American, craft beer (in sample, halfpint and pint sizes) and several bottled options. Its limited (for now) bar menu has garnered early praise for its wings. $$ L D hf ROOTIE’S SPORTS BAR & GRILLE 12205 Westport Rd., 365-4681. The first entry of the Buffalo-based chain to open in the area. Rootie’s angle is charcoal-grilled wings with a thick, hickory-smoked spicy sauce. $ L D hpf SAINT’S 131 Breckinridge Ln., 891-8883. Almost like two restaurants in one, Saints features both a small, intimate, candle-lighted room and a larger, happily boisterous main room with the look and feel of a sports bar. $$ L D hpfe SERGIO’S WORLD BEERS 1605 Story Ave., 618-2337. Despite minimal signage, Sergio’s Butchertown digs pull in his fans, who dig the quirky website, and the whole aura of haughty mystery. What you really need when you locate the place is a desire to explore Sergio’s world beer inventory, nearing 1000 different brews. $$ D h THE SPORTING NEWS GRILL 6551 Paramount Park Dr. (Holiday Inn), 966-0000. Just what you want in a sports bar: seven 52-inch screens, subscriptions to all the pro and college sports networks, and hearty appetizers, Angus burgers, steaks, shrimp and salmon. $$$ L D hpf THE SPORTS & SOCIAL CLUB 427 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live), 568-1400. This Cordishowned spot has four bars — including one that opens out onto the street — plenty of TVs to catch every game, and even a “stadium style sports media room.” Chow down with the usual burgers, sandwiches and wings. $$ L D hpf SPRING STREET BAR & GRILL 300 S. Spring St., 584-6630. A classic American bar and grill, open late on weekends, dispensing cold beer, burgers, sandwiches and good cheer in a friendly atmosphere. The decor includes a collection of old bicycles hanging from the ceiling, and amenities include several video games and pool tables. $$ L D hp

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SULLY’S SALOON 434 S. Fourth St., (Fourth Street Live) 585-4100. $$ L D hpfe THE BACK DOOR 1250 Bardstown Rd. (Mid City Mall), 451-0659. You need a bit of perseverance to track down this saloon on the back side of Mid-City Mall. When you do, you will find one of the city’s friendliest pubs, with a reputation for the best pour of drinks around. Limited bar fare, but don’t miss the chicken wings. $ D hpf TIN ROOF 3921 Shelbyville Rd., 895-1940. This Nashville-based chain, which took over the old Brendan’s location in the heart of St. Matthews has a split personality: a family-friendly vibe during the lunch hours; and a rockin’ juke joint at night with live music until 3 a.m. Its menu encompasses everything you expect from bar grub: deep-fried hot dogs, hot wings, quesadillas and salads for the ladies. $ L D hpfe TROLL PUB UNDER THE BRIDGE 150 W. Washington St., 618-4829. On the downslope alongside the Clark Memorial Bridge, a large troll beckons the adventurous into a space excavated out of the lost space in the old whiskey warehouse. The renovation boasts lots of dark, brick-walled spaces, as well as a funky outdoor dining area in the lightwell. The menu offers stacked sandwiches, bison burgers and sweet potato tots, and ribeye steaks. $$ L D hpf VIC’S CAFÉ 1839 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 9444338. $ L D WINGSTOP 4812 Dixie Hwy., 409-6000. This Texasbased chain with 500 restaurants nationally, now reaches into Louisville. Their specialty? Wings of course, and you can get them 9 different ways. $$ L D hp ZANZABAR 2100 S. Preston St., 635-9227. An icon of the ’70s bar scene, the Zbar has resurrected itself at its original location in Germantown. The stylish tile front has been recreated anew, and chef Jack

Tapp is pushing the envelope on bar food, with items such as pulled pork smoked on site, sesame seed-crusted tuna salad, and peppercorn-crusted rib eye. “Pub grub” like this and top-flight live music is satisfying oldtimers and the newly hip late into the night. $ L D hpfe

AGAINST THE GRAIN BREWERY 401 E. Main St., 515-0174. Slugger Field once again has a beer-pub. The owners, veterans of the local brewing revival, have worked out an ambitious rotating beer selection and a smokehouse theme for the kitchen, with an emphasis on seasonal dishes. $$ L D pf APOCALYPSE BREW WORKS 1612 Mellwood Ave., 589-4843. Veteran home brewers Leah Dienes, Paul Grignon and Bill Krauth have teamed up to open a new brewery in Butchertown. Their taproom, dubbed The Fallout Shelter, will serve up to 10 of their concoctions. $ h BANK STREET BREWHOUSE 415 Bank St., New Albany IN, 725-9585. The food focus of this offshoot of F&D columnist Roger Baylor’s New Albanian brewing empire has morphed into American bistro cuisine, with emphasis on fresh and local ingredients, and daily fish specials. Devotees will still find steak frites and croques monsieurs et madames to go with the exceptional beer brewed on the premises. $$ L D pf BLUEGRASS BREWING COMPANY 3929 Shelbyville Rd., 899-7070, 636 E. Main St., 584-2739, 660 S. Fourth St., 568-2224, 300 W. Main St., 562-0007. More than just a brewpub. BBC’s management gives equally serious attention to both cooking and brewing, making this a great place to stop in for both dinner and a beer. Its third restaurant site near the new arena boasts an upstairs Bourbon lounge. $$ L D hpfe

CUMBERLAND BREWS 1576 Bardstown Rd., 4588727. Giving new meaning to the term “microbrewery,” Cumberland Brews may be one of the smallest eateries in town. It’s usually packed, earning its crowds the old-fashioned way by providing very good food, friendly service, and high-quality handcrafted artisan beers. $ L D hf GORDON BIERSCH BREWERY RESTAURANT 400 S. Fourth St., 589-8935. The growing national brewery and restaurant chain has become an anchor at the corner location at 4th and Liberty, brewing their characteristic German-style bottomfermented lagers, Hefeweizen, bocks, pilsners and Schwarzbiers. The large menu offers the usual pubgrub, but touted as fresh, seasonal and made on the premises. $$$ Br L D hpf NEW ALBANIAN BREWING CO. 3312 Plaza Dr., New Albany, IN, 944-2577. (See review under Pizza.)

ADDIS GRILL 109 S. Fourth St., 581-1011. The signage of this downtown ethnic eatery promises “Mediterranean & Ethiopian Cuisine,” but the menu offers mostly Mediterranean standbys — kabobs, hummus, baba ghannouj, dolmades, tabbouleh. $ L D h AL NUUR 2933 S. Fourth St., 210-7623. Another outlet for Arabian food, but one that goes beyond the usual. You can find long-braised lamb shank and roasted goat, as well as shish kebabs, fish and spaghetti. Take out or eat in. $ L D BELA’S CAFÉ 2933 S. Fourth St., 758-6463. This little Somali café caters mostly to the Muslim community settling in around Churchill Downs, offering cheap, filling, and interestingly spiced foods such as sambusas and nafaqo — a hard-boiled egg in a crust of potato and ground beef, a kind of African Scotch egg. $ L D

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CHEZ SENEBA AFRICAN RESTAURANT 4218 Bishop Ln., 473-8959. Offering another interesting ethnic cuisine to Louisville’s international dining scene, with generous portions of spicy Senegalese cuisine from West Africa. $ L D h FUNMI’S AFRICAN RESTAURANT 3028 Bardstown Rd., 454-5009. Billing itself as serving “Modern Nigerian Cuisine,” Funmi’s offers a range of dishes from North and Central African cultures. Sample goat in a soup or a thick stew. Try soya, a West African shish kebab with a spicy peanut rub or moin-moin, a savory bean cake or lablabi, a Tunisian chickpea soup. Vegetarian and vegan dishes are available as well. $$ L D KALISIMBI BAR & GRILL 5600 S. Third St., 3641910. Beechmont gets a new sports bar featuring a blend of African and American foods served alongside an extensive wine and beer list. Open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner. $$ L D MAA SHA ALLAH 4113 Bardstown Rd., 491-3152. The name is an Arabic blessing or expression of joy, meaning “Whatever Allah wants to give.” This little Buechel storefront is another example of the entrepreneurial spirit of recent immigrants, in this case from Senegal and Sierra Leone. The menu is African, the ambiance modest, the food spicy and tasty. $$ L D QUEEN OF SHEBA ETHIOPIAN 2804 Taylorsville Rd., 459-6301, 528 S. Fifth St., 589-5777. This authentic Ethiopian restaurant offers a wide selection of intriguing Ethiopian dishes, including a variety of vegetarian selections as well as the traditional beef and chicken specialties. Ethiopian fare is made for sharing and eating with the fingers, but they’ll gladly make forks available for the finicky. $ L D

A TASTE OF CHINA 1167 S. Fourth St., 585-5582. $ L D ASIAN BUFFET 3813 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 945-1888, 3646 Mall Rd., 479-9989. Competent cookery and careful management that ensures buffet offerings stay fresh and hot makes these buffets a good choice among the growing crowd of all-you-can-eat Asian spots. $ L D ASIAN MOON 1915 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 261-9998, 3360 Hikes Ln., 451-0077. $ L D AUGUST MOON 2269 Lexington Rd., 456-6569. August Moon’s secret ingredient is the culinary oversight of Chef Peng Looi, better known as the force behind Asiatique. Housed in a soaring, open space with a Zen master’s style. Consistent commitment in the kitchen and from the staff makes it a top spot for Asian fare. A lovely patio at the rear affords a pleasant alfresco dining experience. $$$ L D hpf BAMBOO HOUSE 4036 Poplar Level Rd., 451-3113. An old-timer among local Chinese restaurants, this Southeastern Louisville spot may not offer the trendiest Asian fare, but it’s a reliable source for the familiar Cantonese-American standards. $ L D CHEER KING STAR 231 S. Fifth St., 587-8686. Just what downtown needed — a Chinese buffet for quick lunches. Mostly the familiar, a mix of Cantonese, Szechuan and Hunan choices for those who need a little spice to fire them up to get back to work. $ L D CHINA 1 123 Breckinridge Ln., 897-6511. $ L D CHINA BUFFET 706 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 288-8989. Chinese buffets are ubiquitous, but this one is squarely in the upper range. Regularly refreshed steam tables, attentively fried rice, and properly spicy General Tso’s Chicken raise it above the other places typical of the genre. $ L D CHINA CAFÉ 8625 Preston Hwy., 968-7450. $ L D CHINA CASTLE 7420 Third Street Rd., 367-4272. $ L D 80 Summer 2013 www.foodanddine.com

CHINA GARDEN 7309 Preston Hwy., 968-4672. A busy restaurant with the double pleasure of Chinese and American menu items. $ L D CHINA INN 1925 S. Fourth St., 636-2020. It’s not the posh, private Faculty Club, but this little Asian spot may be one of the most popular eateries around the University of Louisville’s Belknap Campus. $ L D CHINA KING 3830 Ruckriegel Pkwy., 240-0500. $ L D CHINA TASTE 135 Quartermaster Ct., Jeffersonville IN, 284-5580. $ L D CHINESE CHEF 2619 S. Fourth St., 634-0979. $ L D CHINESE EXPRESS 3228 Crums Ln., 448-1360. $ L D CHONG GARDEN 10341 Dixie Hwy., 935-1628. $ L D h CHOPSTICKS 416 E. Broadway, 589-9145. $ L D CHOPSTICKS HOUSE 2112 W. Broadway, 772-3231. $ L D CHUNG KING CHINESE AMERICAN RESTAURANT 110 E. Market St., 584-8880. $ L D CRYSTAL CHINESE 3901 W. Market St., 776-9702. $ L D DOUBLE DRAGON 1255 Goss Ave., 635-5656, 2600 W. Broadway, 778-2573. A standout among fast-food shopping-center Chinese eateries, Double Dragon hits on all cylinders, turning out consistently wellprepared and flavorful fare. $ L D DOUBLE DRAGON II 12480 LaGrange Rd., 241-7766, 6832 Bardstown Rd., 231-3973, 3179 S. Second St., 367-6668, 5222 Dixie Hwy., 448-1988. $ L D DOUBLE DRAGON 9 9501 Taylorsville Rd., 267-5353.$LD EASTERN HOUSE 5372 Dixie Hwy., 568-2688. $ L D EGGROLL MACHINE 1543 Bardstown Rd., 459-1259. The Chinese side of the menu at Café Mimosa is presented as The Egg Roll Machine, as opposed to the Vietnamese dishes on the fine dining Mimosa menu. All the expected Chinese favorites are here, including combination platters. $ L D hp EMPEROR OF CHINA 2210 Holiday Manor Center, 426-1717. One of Louisville’s fanciest and most noteworthy Chinese restaurants, the Emperor’s quarters are stylishly strewn across multiple levels of a former suburban movie theater. Outstanding. $$ L D hp EMPRESS OF CHINA 2249 Hikes Ln., 451-2500. Older sister to The Emperor of China, the Empress was one of Louisville’s first serious, authentic upscale Cantonese restaurants, and its fare still stands up to fancy spots in New York’s Chinatown. $$ L D hp FIRST WOK 3967 Seventh Street Rd., 448-0588. $ L D h GOLDEN BUDDHA 8000 Preston Hwy., 968-7700. $LDh GOLDEN PALACE BUFFET 161 Outer Loop, 368-2868. $$ L D GOLDEN STAR CHINESE RESTAURANT 3458 Taylor Blvd., 368-1833. $ L D h GOLDEN WALL 3201 Fern Valley Rd., 968-9717. $ L D GREAT WALL 2206 Brownsboro Rd., 891-8881. This Clifton restaurant ranks high up in the fast-food Chinese pack. Offering steaming-hot, competently prepared and flavorful dishes. $ L D h GREAT WOK 2502 Preston Hwy., 634-1918. Just about every shopping center in town has a fast-food Chinese spot, but this one stands out, generating a buzz of word-of-mouth publicity about its well-crafted Chinese dishes at a bargain-basement price. $ L D HAPPY CHINA 9106 Taylorsville Rd., 493-1001. $ L D HAPPY DRAGON 12613 Taylorsville Rd., 297-8788. You guessed it: a good, go-to standard pan-China family-style restaurant in Jeffersontown that’s always there when you’re tired of cooking dinner for the clan. $ L D HIBACHI SUSHI BUFFET 5316 Bardstown Rd., 4918228. Capitalizing on two seemingly persistent trends in American dining, this hot table place offers standard Chinese buffet dishes, and standard sushi choices. Cashew chicken, shrimp with garlic

sauce, Dancing Dragon roll, spring and summer maki — it is all here. $$ L D HONG KONG CHINESE RESTAURANT 345 New Albany Plaza, New Albany IN, 945-1818. $ L D HONG KONG FAST FOOD 5312 S. Third St., 3678828. One of the many international eateries in Iroquois Manor, this fast-food Chinese spot offers Cantonese standards hot and fast and inexpensively. Check the daily specials for an occasional intriguing item. $ L D h HUNAN WOK 6445 Bardstown Rd., 231-0393. $ L D h JADE PALACE 1201 Herr Ln., 425-9878. Jade Palace is a decent place for Chinese food at any time, but don’t miss it at mid-day Friday through Monday, when it offers the metro area’s only dim sum (Chinese brunch) menu. $$ Br L D hp JASMINE 13823 English Villa Dr., 244-8896. A charming Asian eatery, where you can enjoy familiar ChineseAmerican plates or indulge your more adventurous side with more unusual authentic dishes from the “Chinese Menu,” available on request. $ L D f JUMBO BUFFET 2731 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 495-0028. Housed in a good-looking dining room, high on Chinatown-style glitz and glitter, Jumbo offers a standard all-you-can-eat Chinese buffet, with a larger-than-average selection of American dishes for those who want something less exotic. $$ L D h KING WOK 291 N. Hubbards Ln., 899-7188. Another of the city’s many tiny shopping-center fast-food Chinese eateries, King Wok offers all the familiar standards plus a small lunch buffet. $ L D h LING LING 10476 Shelbyville Rd., 245-2100. Modern and efficient in its East End shopping center location, Ling Ling is a cut above fast-food Chinese; better yet, it adds a few Vietnamese dishes to the bill of fare. $$ L D LIU’S GARDEN 11517 Shelbyville Rd., 244-9898. Small but charming, with white tablecloths and soft Chinese music, family-run Liu’s gains our approval with fresh, competent cookery and courteous, friendly service that makes you feel like you’re visiting a Chinese family at their home. $$ L D MING’S BUFFET 1971 Brownsboro Rd., 893-0822. Yet another large, shiny, all-you-can-eat Chinese buffet featuring mostly Chinese dishes with a few American-style items and sushi rolls. $ L D NEW CHINA 231 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 254-9299. $ L D ONION RESTAURANT TEA HOUSE 4211 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 981-0188. Masterful Chinese and Japanese cuisine (including magnificent hotpots, donburi dishes, and wooden-bucket steamed rice) set this airy restaurant apart from the horde of other Asian spots. $ L D f ORIENTAL HOUSE 4302 Shelbyville Rd., 897-1017. New owners continue the tradition at this longstanding St. Matthews restaurant, featuring both traditional Chinese-American and now, authentic Cantonese, menus. $ L D p ORIENTAL STAR 4212 Bishop Ln., 452-9898. A longtime area favorite in this heavy traffic lunch area. This establishment is quite good with Lo Mein Noodles, and Sweet and Sour Chicken. $ L D PANDA CHINESE RESTAURANT 9543 U.S. 42., 228-6400. $ L D PANDA EXPRESS 1075 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN 288-0774. The Pentagon even has one of the 1500+ outlets of the nation’s largest Chinese fast food chains, and now Clarksville does too. Moderately priced chow such as orange chicken, Beijing beef, SweetFire chicken breast and honey walnut shrimp fill the menu. $ L D PEKING CITY BISTRO 12410 Shelbyville Rd., 2536777. A step up from the usual Chinese hot table fare. Chef Chen, highly thought of in the Chinese community, runs the kitchen. $ L D

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QUICK WOK 801 W. Broadway, 584-6519. $ L D RED SUN CHINESE RESTAURANT 3437 Breckinridge Ln., 499-7788. $ L D ROYAL GARDEN 5729 Preston Hwy., 969-3788. $ L D SHANGHAI RESTAURANT 526 S. Fifth St., 568-8833. $LD SICHUAN GARDEN 9850 Linn Station Rd., 426-6767. Another Asian restaurant that has stood the test of time, Sichuan Garden offers high-end Chinatown style and well-made dishes, plus a few Thai specialties to spice up the bill of fare. $ L D TEA STATION CHINESE BISTRO 9422 Norton Commons Blvd., 423-1202. This comfortable, sitdown Chinese restaurant owned and operated by Paul and Amy Yang joins the small but growing cluster of businesses in the Norton Commons village center. $$ L D h

they have Bardstown Road hipsters.The eclectic and somewhat funky menu builds on traditional Japanese ingredients with unexpected twists:, pizza topped with sashimi, and tacos filled with avocado tempura. $ L D hpf FUJI ASIAN BISTRO 6801 Dixie Hwy., 937-0488. $$LDp FUJI JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE 3576 Springhurst Blvd., 339-1978, 12905 Shelbyville Rd., 253-0036. Part of the fun of sitting at the sushi bar is that you get to watch the chef at work. Put in your order, then sit back and sip your tea while the artist creates edible delights. This suburban sushi bar does the job well. $$ L D hp HANABI JAPANESE RESTAURANT 6027 Timber Ridge Dr., 228-8244. A hospitable welcome, casual setting, and well-fashioned sushi and Japanese specialties have made this family run Prospect spot a worthy alternative in the East End dining scene. $$ L D hp

deal, while the offer lasts: All-you-can-eat sushi nightly until the karaoke starts at 9 p.m. $$$ L D p KAILANA SUSHI 6435 Bardstown Rd., 614-7244. Fern Creek gets another choice in sushi bars, with generous rolls priced competitively — nothing over $12. Four levels of 13-piece, mix and match lunch specials, as well as rice, noodles and salads. $$ L D h KANSAI JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE 1370 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 218-9538, 1850 S. Hurst bourne Pkwy., 618-1870. Traditional Japanese dishes and sushi are available here, but like most Japanese Steakhouses, choose the grill tables with their slice-and-dice Japanese chef show for maximum entertainment. $$$ L D hp KOBE STEAK HOUSE 301 S. Indiana Ave., Jeffersonville IN, 280-8500. Southern Indiana’s first serious Japanese restaurant has been drawing crowds with its exceptional sushi bar, with skilled and friendly

WOK EXPRESS 234 W. Broadway, 583-8988. $ L D h WONTON EXPRESS 3000 Hikes Ln., 452-2646. Traditional Chinese fare. Family-owned-and-operated, this popular neighborhood establishment has enjoyed a steady patronage for seventeen years. $ L D YANG KEE NOODLE 7900 Shelbyville Rd. (Oxmoor Mall), 426-0800. This locally owned and operated Oxmoor spot is colorful and stylish. It offers an intriguing array of appealing noodle and rice dishes from all over Asia with fast-food efficiency and prices happily matched by sit-down restaurant quality and style. $ L D f YEN CHING 1818 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-3581. $ L D YOU-CARRYOUT-A 1551 E. Tenth St., Jeffersonville IN, 288-8313, 827 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville IN, 282-8881. $ L D

SARI SARI FILIPINO CUISINE 2339 Frankfort Ave., 894-0585. The city’s first Filipino eatery offers a tasty introduction to the Malayo-Polynesian fare of this Southeast Asian island nation. Filipino dishes are affordable during the dinner hour and downright cheap on the lunch buffet. $ L D TAMBAYAN KARAOKE BAR & FILIPINO RESTAURANT 9601 Newbridge Rd., 749-2727. $$ L D h

ARATA SUSHI 9207 U.S. 42, 409-4880. Prospect gets a sleek sushi place, with crisp dark modern interior, well-prepared fresh fish and rolls, and a fine selection of sakes. $$ L D p ASAHI JAPANESE 3701 Lexington Rd., 895-1130. This small room in St. Matthews houses this neighborhood sushi spot where award-winning Chef Yong Bong Tak, formerly of Osaka, works his magic at the sushi bar. $ L D BEIJING GRILL AND SUSHI BAR 8007 Hwy. 311, Sellersburg IN, 248-0900. $ L D h BENDOYA SUSHI BAR 217 S. Fifth St., 581-0700. Adding international flair to its downtown neighborhood, Bendoya is a genuine, serious sushi bar in a storefront just across the street from the courthouse. $$ L CAVIAR JAPANESE RESTAURANT 416 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 625-3090. (See listing under Upscale Casual.)

HEART & SOY 1216 Bardstown Rd., 452-6678. To the left is Roots, a sit-down restaurant. To the right is Heart & Soy, serving vegetarian “street food,” and entertaining passers-by with a glass-walled tofumaking room. State-of-the-art equipment from Taiwan transforms organic soy beans from Ohio into soy milk and then coagulates and presses it into tofu as you watch. $ L D

DANCING SUSHI JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE 2809 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 384-3387. $$ L D

HIKO A MON SUSHI BAR 1115 Herr Ln., 365-1651. Japanese-trained chef Norihiko Nakanashi brings his artistic skills to this sushi bar and Japanese grill in Westport Village. In addition to fine dining at the bar or in traditional Japanese dining rooms, Hiko A Mon offers sushi-grade fish from a small fish market. $$$ L D hp

DRAGON KING’S DAUGHTER 1126 Bardstown Rd., 632-2444, 202 East Elm St., New Albany IN, 7258600. Owner Toki Masubuchi‘s audacious take on fusion cuisine looks to enchant New Albanians as

ICHIBAN SAMURAI 1510 Lake Shore Ct., 412-3339. This large Japanese-farmhouse building, originally a Benihana, offers similar delights, with the traditional slice-and-dice food show and good sushi. Best

CHOI’S ASIAN FOOD MARKET 607 Lyndon Ln., 426-4441. This suburban Asian grocery now serves hot table fare to enjoy while shopping. $ L D

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

chefs who can be relied on to fashion fresh and tasty bites that are just about certain to please. $$$ L D p MASA JAPANESE 12336 Shelbyville Rd., 409-5040. Middletown, too, joins in the sushi expansion. Open for lunch and dinner, the standard menu is bolstered by daily chef’s specials. Lunch specials include the Japadawg, a hot dog with Japanese toppings, a range of teriyaki choices and ramen noodles, Japanese style. $$ L D h MIKATO JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE 3938 Dupont Circle, 891-0081. An upscale hibachi grillhouse in the popular restaurant ring in the Breckinridge Lane — Dupont Circle area. Pleasant decor, entertaining grill chefs, fresh sushi preparations, and sometimes glacial service. $$ L D hpf MT. FUJI 309 Cardinal Blvd., 637-5887. A new addition to the quick eating choices in the new strip on the north side of U of L’s campus. College www.facebook.com/foodanddine Summer 2013 81

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kids like their sushi too, along with their tempura and Japanese noodles. $ L D p OASIS SUSHI & SOUL 3311 Preston Hwy., 3758766. Owners of downtown’s Bendoya Sushi Bar have opened this Japanese restaurant on Preston Highway. $$ D h OISHII SUSHI 2810 Taylorsville Rd., 365-3474. This small, attractive and popular sushi spot has contracted to a single location near Bowman Field. $$ L D h OSAKA SUSHI BAR 2039 Frankfort Ave., 894-9501, 426 W. Market St., 588-8899. This long-standing Clifton favorite also has a second location downtown, serving up sushi and other Japanese dishes in a bright and cheery environment to a loyal clientele. $$ L D ROOTS 1216 Bardstown Rd., 452-6688. Coco Tran, who has nurtured a loyal Clifton-area fan base with her Zen Garden, looks to seduce the vegan/ vegetarian world of the Highlands with this crisp, elegant room. Eat at tables in the front, enjoy smoothies and tea at the bar, or snuggle down in a Japanese pit table in the back. Choose from an international selection of small plates. $ L D SAKE BLUE JAPANESE BISTRO 9326 Cedar Center Way, 708-1500. This Fern Creek restaurant brings the “full-service” Japanese restaurant experience to the southeast part of Louisville Metro. Look for hibachi grill tables and a sushi bar, along with a traditional dining room and cocktail bar. $$ L D hp SAKURA BLUE 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 897-3600. Located in elegant, upscale quarters in a St. Matthews shopping center, Sakura Blue — direct descendant of the old, popular Bonsai — ranks among the city’s top sushi bars. $$ L D h SAPPORO JAPANESE GRILL & SUSHI 1706 Bardstown Rd., 479-5550, 649 S. Fourth St., 589-3333. With its original location in the middle of Bardstown Road’s “restaurant row,” trendy, glitzy Sapporo has established itself as one of the city’s top spots for sushi and Japanese fare. Its second location is in a beautifully designed space in Theater Square off Broadway downtown. $$$ L D hp SATO’S ZEN SUSHI & SAKE 285 N. Hubbards Ln., 893-8901. The menu of this Japanese restaurant boasts “Zen salads,” soups, sushi, green tea, red bean and tempura ice cream, and a variety of flavored sakes. $$ L D h SHOGUN JAPANESE STEAK HOUSE 9026 Taylorsville Rd., 499-5700, 4110 Hampton Lake Way, 3940123. Shogun’s decor is attractive, and quality food and service make it a pleasant dining destination. It’s unthreatening enough to appeal to those who find exotic cuisine “challenging,” but good enough to satisfy just about anyone who craves a Japanese dinner or a bite of sushi. $$$ L D hp SORA SUSHI AND JAPANESE CUISINE 2610 Chamberlain Ln., 290-7672. Every neighborhood now needs its sushi place. Louisville’s inexhaustible hunger for sticky rice wrapped in seaweed has seen it win early fans who attest to the menu’s freshness and to the pleasant service and setting. $$ L D p STAR SUSHI 2781 Jefferson Centre Way, Jeffersonville IN, 725-8444. Is there a surfeit of sushi around the area? Even Jeffersonville now has its own source of yellowtail rolls, sashimi and nigiri, which is drawing fans for the freshness and flavor of its offerings, and its very fair price point. $$ L D TOKYO JAPANESE RESTAURANT 2415 Lime Kiln Ln., 339-7171. It’s appealing, pleasant in atmosphere and friendly in service, and most important, this East End sushi bar serves excellent Japanese treats, prepared with care and flair from highquality, impeccably fresh ingredients. $$ L D TOMO 4315 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 9410200. This Japanese hibachi steak house offers a

82 Summer 2013 www.foodanddine.com

good show of knife skills and tableside grilling, as well as sushi. Patrons seem to admire the oversize sushi rolls, the salads with ginger dressing, and the grilled chicken and scallops. $$ L D p WASABIYA JAPANESE RESTAURANT 972 Baxter Ave., 618-2460. A neighborhood sushi bar, with a chef from Boston with fusion cuisine intentions. Look for some unusual items, like the sake kinuta, salmon wrapped in marinated daikon radish with a citrus sauce, or a fatty tuna carpaccio with white wine reduction and ponzu sauce. $$ L D h WILD GINGER SUSHI & FUSION 1700 Bardstown Rd., 384-9252. The old Café Metro space did not molder long — this sushi and Asian fusion spot has been pulling in intrigued customers who admire the sushi bar up front, and explore the pan-Asian menu. Standard Japanese entrées are joined with specials from Korea (bibim bop) China (Sichuanstyle crispy tofu) and Thailand (pad thai and curries). $$ L D hp

partly because it is vegetarian- and vegan-friendly. $$ L D SIMPLY THAI 323 Wallace Ave., 899-9670, 12003 Shelbyville Rd, 690-8344. Owner Mahn Saing and his wife, a classically trained Thai chef, are pleasing diners in St. Matthews and Middletown. Their menu of traditional Thai dishes, well-made sushi and a few upscale Thai-style “fusion” dinner items use many ingredients from their small home garden. $$ L D f TAN THAI RESTAURANT 4510 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 948-2012. It’s in a strip mall, but the folks who run TanThai create a distinctive atmosphere by hanging sheer white scrims that divvy the room up into serene little chambers. The menu of Thai specialties is small — just a dozen or so entrées — but nicely executed and beautifully presented. $ L D THAI CAFÉ 2226 Holiday Manor Center, 425-4815. You’ll find this small café tucked into a corner of the “Holiday Manor Walk.” Owner Chavantee Snow and her family offer a small but well-prepared selection of authentic Thai dishes at very reasonable prices. $ L D f

CHARIM KOREAN RESTAURANT 4123 Oeschli Ave., 290-8900. This St. Matthews site behind the Old Sears building housed several other restaurants, and now the promise of Korean food in St. Matthews has many ethnic food fans salivating. $ L D

THAI SIAM 3002 Bardstown Rd., 458-6871. Louisville’s first Thai restaurant, this venerable spot has built a loyal audience over the years, perhaps responding to its regular visitors’ preferences with food that’s a bit on the tame side for Thai. $$ L D

KOREANA II 5009 Preston Hwy., 968-9686. One of the city’s few restaurants devoted entirely to authentic Korean fare, Koreana is worth a special trip for this ethnic cuisine that offers a hearty, spicy alternative to the more familiar Chinese. $$ L D

THAI SMILE 5 5800 Preston Hwy., 961-9018. Part of a regional mini-chain, Thai Smile 5 serves up simple but well-prepared Thai fare. Don’t ask for the fivechile-pepper heat unless you really mean it! $ L D

LEE’S KOREAN RESTAURANT 1941 Bishop Ln., 456-9714. This little spot has been a secret since the ’70s, and it just keeps on going. Walk into what looks like a diner in an office building, but push past the counter to the back room, where you’ll find generous heaps of really authentic Korean food for next to nothing. $$ L D h

BD’S MONGOLIAN GRILL 1890 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 499-4406. The proprietors of this Michiganbased East End chain invite you to “go Mongo,” building your own choice of ingredients and sauces for the chefs to stir-fry. $$ L D hpf GENGHIS GRILL 4002 Towne Center Dr., 4264945. The chain of Asian stir-fry restaurants has been steadily moving northward from its Dallas home base. At this suburban location just beyond the Gene Snyder Freeway you can choose one of their dozen “signature bowls” including Szechuan bamboo beef, ginger herb shrimp, Mexican jalapeno and chipotle steak. Or design your own from a choice of protein, vegetables, sauces and starches. $$ L D p

THAI TASTE 1977 Brownsboro Rd., 897-7682. The owner-host of this friendly, casual spot in Crescent Hill had a restaurant in Bangkok before moving to Louisville, and his experience shows. The warmth of his welcome — and the quality of the food — make Thai Taste special. $ L D

ANNIE CAFE 308 W. Woodlawn Ave., 363-4847. Annie Cafe ranks not just as one of the better Vietnamese restaurants, but one the city’s best of any variety, particularly when value and price are taken into account. Authentic Vietnamese food is made with care and served with pride. $ L D BANH MI HERO 2245 Bardstown Rd., 456-2022. Seven versions of the French-Vietnamese fusion sandwich on offer here, plus Asian tacos and rice bowls, washed down with Vietnamese coffee, jasmine tea or exotic Asian canned soft drinks.$ L D CAFÉ MIMOSA 1543 Bardstown Rd., 459-1259. Owner Phat Le, serving his Vietnamese, Chinese and pan-Asian dishes to happy regulars, might finally wean Louisvillians from referring to his building as the former Lentini’s. $ L D hp

SHAH’S MONGOLIAN GRILL 9148 Taylorsville Rd., 493-0234, 423 E. Warnock St., 409-5029. Thirteenth Century Mongol warriors used to turn their steel shields to use as frying pans over the campfire, using their swords as spoons. Shah’s carries their spirit forward. This all-you-can-eat buffet is fun, and the food is fine. $$ L D

CAFÉ THUY VAN 5600 National Turnpike, 366-6959. A bit off the beaten track, this South End spot is true, authentic Vietnamese. Friendly service overcomes any language barrier, and prices are hard to beat. Don’t miss the banh mi, traditional Vietnamese sandwiches. $ L D

MAI’S THAI RESTAURANT 1411 E. Tenth St., Jeffersonville IN, 282-0198. With a broad range of well-prepared and authentic Thai dishes, Mai’s is the eatery to beat among the metro area’s Thai restaurants. For both authenticity and quality, it’s right up there with the top Thai places in New York, San Francisco and Seattle. $ L D

LEMONGRASS CAFÉ 11606 Shelbyville Rd., 2447110. Lemongrass Café offers an appealing blend of Vietnamese, Thai and Chinese fare in a simple setting that transcends an obviously low budget with style and grace. $ L D h

SALA THAI 8125 Bardstown Rd., 231-1992, 10403 Glenmary Farm Dr., 493-3944. This entry on the growing list of Thai restaurants is gaining fans,

LA QUE 1019 Bardstown Rd., 238-3981. La Que provides the lower Highlands with a dependable, economical Vietnamese menu that includes some dishes from other Asian cuisines. $$ L D hf

NAMNAM CAFÉ 318 Wallace Ave., 891-8859. This small St. Matthews Vietnamese restaurant has gained many enthusiastic fans who flock there for the pho, the banh mi and other authentic Vietnamese dishes. $ L D f

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PEARL Horseshoe Casino Hotel, Elizabeth IN, 888-7662648. Vietnamese and Chinese cuisine, elegantly served, Pearl is the newest dining choice at Horseshoe Casino. Signature dishes include Vietnamese spring rolls, pho, ginger and scallion fried lobster and crispy salt and pepper shrimp. $$ L D hp PHO BINH MINH 6709 Strawberry Ln., 375-9249. Tiny and lovably cozy, this six-table South End spot is true authentic Vietnamese, and so are the proprietors. There’s some language barrier, but the owners are so friendly, and the food so good, that it’s worth the effort if you love real Asian fare and inexpensive prices. $ L D

JAPANESE

GRILL

AND

SUSHI

SAPPOROJAPANESE.COM 1706 BARDSTOWN RD. 502.479.5550

SAIGON CAFÉ 108 Fairfax Ave., 893-7757. St. Matthews diners can find tasty and inexpensive Southeast Asian fare here — Vietnamese, Thai and Chinese dishes are all choices on the menu. $$ L D h

649 SOUTH 4TH ST. 502.589.3333

SAIGON ONE 333 W. Cardinal Blvd., 638-8989. Vietnamese cuisine joins the choices for residents, with this addition to the dining array at the new university dorm and restaurant row at Cardinal Towne (where Masterson’s used to be). $ L D h VIETNAM KITCHEN 5339 Mitscher Ave., 363-5154. This little South End storefront is well worth seeking out. The chef goes beyond the ordinary, preparing authentic Vietnamese dishes of unusual subtlety and flavor. We have yet to be disappointed with the quality of the food or service. $ L D h ZEN GARDEN 2240 Frankfort Ave., 895-9114. Vegetarians with a philosophical bent have found a combination guru and den mother in Zen Garden’s owner Coco, who serves up sincere and soulful Asian vegan dishes. $ L D h

BOSNA-MAK 3825 Old Bardstown Rd., 456-1919. Friendly and exceptionally hospitable, family-owned Bosna-Mak celebrates the heritage of the owners and chefs in Bosnia and Macedonia in the Balkans and picks up a few culinary additions from their time in Germany. $ L D

DINNER ONLY HIBACHI GRILL RESERVATIONS RECOMMENDED

BISTRO LE RELAIS 2817 Taylorsville Rd. (Bowman Field), 451-9020. This art deco spot makes stylish use of an historic 1920s airport building to present elegant modern French cuisine. Chef Alexander Dulaney and owner Anthony Dike’s refocus of the restaurant around a bistro menu continues its popularity. $$$$ D pfe GHYSLAIN 721 E. Market St., 690-8645, 1215 Herr Ln., 690-6001. This French bistro, run by French-Canadian chocolatiers, is expanding into a second Westport Village location. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, serving grilled baguettes, croque monsieurs, panini, quiches, soups, salads, and fine chocolates. $$ L D LA COOP: BISTRO À VINS 732 E. Market St., 4102888. One of the hottest spots in NuLu. Uber talented chef Bobby Benjamin is turning out classic French bistro fare with some modern twists, an idea that keeps his little place packed with happy diners. $$$ B L D hpf

Food

&Drink •seasonally conscious menus •15 wines by the glass •21 Beers on tap

European +american cuisine

LOUIS LE FRANCAIS 133 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 944-1222. This charming French bistro extends the range of international dining options in New Albany. Louis “Louis the Frenchman” Retailleau serves a menu typical of the cuisine of his native southwest France. $$$$ D p

> enue 983 Goss Av

EIDERDOWN 983 Goss Ave., 290-2390. The owners of the Germantown watering hole Nachbar also operate the popular Eiderdown, serving Southern comfort food influenced by the owners’ German and European heritage. Dreams of a microbrewery

m i n u t e s

f r o m

w h e r e

y o u

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502/290-2390 • EiDERDOWNGERMANTOWN.COM

OPEN: TuesWedThurs: 4–10pm • FriSat: 11:30am–11pm • Sun: Noon–10pm • Mon: CLOSED

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

www.facebook.com/foodanddine Summer 2013 83

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there also dance in their heads; in the meantime, diners are satisfied with a large selection of European craft beers on tap. $$ L D h ERIKA’S GERMAN RESTAURANT 9301 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 499-8822. It’s tucked away in an inconspicuous corner just off I-64 local access ramp, but Erika’s has been pleasing its knowing clientele with authentic German dishes for quite a while now. $$ D GASTHAUS 4812 Brownsboro Center, 899-7177. Michael and Annemarie Greipel came here with their five kids in 1993, straight from North RhineWestphalia to St. Matthews. Tiny lights twinkle from strands of fake red geraniums. But the hearty German fare — schnitzels, sauerbraten and rouladen with red cabbage and dumplings — is the real thing. $$$ D

IRISH EXIT 209 E. Main St., New Albany IN, 944-1929. The Irish Exit (a tongue-in-cheek name referring to the quiet, no-farewell leave-taking of inebriated Hibernians) serves pub fare and entertains patrons with karaoke and acoustic music, pool tables and dart boards. $ D hpe IRISH ROVER 2319 Frankfort Ave., 899-3544, 117 E. Main St, LaGrange, 222-2286. Owner Michael Reidy is the Irish rover, having come to the U.S. from County Clare in 1984. His saloons are as smooth as Guinness, as warm as fish and chips, as genuine as Scotch eggs. The Frankfort Avenue building dates from 1859. $ Br L D pf MOLLY MALONE’S 933 Baxter Ave., 473-1222, 3900 Shelbyville Rd., 882-2222. A carefully constructed replica of a modern urban Irish pub, Molly Malone’s, a worthy addition to the city’s eating and drinking scene, has added a second, suburban location. Both are as authentically Irish as the Wearin’ o’ the Green. $$ L D hpfe MORE SHENANIGAN’S 4521 Bardstown Rd., 4933585. $ L D hpfe O’SHEA’S TRADITIONAL IRISH PUB 956 Baxter Ave., 589-7373. One of the most popular watering holes in the entire Bardstown-Baxter corridor. Twenty-somethings and Louisville belles love its action. But diners of all ages like its meat loaf, roast beef and Irish stew. When music fills the rooms, it’s great to be Irish, even if you’re not. $$ L D hpfe PATRICK O’SHEA’S 123 W. Main St., 708-2488. This downtown Irish bar was one of the first to open in the Whiskey Row complex, anticipating the revival of that edge of the Main Street corridor. Crowds have been elbowing in for upscale Irish-inflected bar food and plenty of sports talk. Now the owners have rehabbed the funky underpinnings of their building into a bar area and dubbed it “The Cellar,” focusing on an aggressive Bourbon program and live entertainment. $$ L D hpfe RI RA IRISH PUB 445 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live) 587-1825. Promising patrons “an authentic Irish experience,” this growing chain is ensconced in a sizable 9,000-square-foot space in Fourth Street Live. Ri Ra (Gaelic for “celebration and good fun”) decorates its pubs with authentic furnishings from Ireland. $$$ L D hpfe SHENANIGAN’S IRISH GRILL 1611 Norris Pl., 4543919. Not just a neighborhood tavern (although it’s a fine neighborhood tavern), Irish-accented Shenanigan’s goes an extra step with an estimable selection of memorable burgers. $ L D hpfe

ADRIENNE’S ITALIAN RESTAURANT 129 W. Court Ave., Jeffersonville IN, 282-2665. A part of the dining renaissance on the sunny side of Louisville, Adrienne’s has been pleasing Indiana diners with home-style Italian dishes. The owners also operate Adrienne’s Bakery in Jeffersonville. $$ L D 84 Summer 2013 www.foodanddine.com

AMICI 316 W. Ormsby Ave., 637-3167. Satisfying traditional Tuscan dishes are served in this interesting — and supposedly haunted — Old Louisville building. Dine inside or on the romantic patio on a lovely summer evening, There’s no extra charge if the ghosts want to share your penne alla Lorenzo or Valpolicella. $$ L D pf

Loop, 968-2978, 1230 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 218-8304. The top property of the Darden chain, Olive Garden now operates more than 500 properties and bills itself as the leading Italian restaurant in the casual dining industry. Hearty pastas of all shapes and sauces, appetizers and combo platters all carry the Italian theme. $$ L D hp

ANSELMO’S ITALIAN BISTRO 1511 Bardstown Rd., 749-0444. Highland residents hankering for simple, traditional, filling Italian dishes can find just that in this Italian bistro. The menu offers what one would expect: pizza, pastas, lasagna — at reasonable prices. $$ L D hp

PESTO’S ITALIAN RESTAURANT 566 S. Fifth St., 584-0567. Offices for blocks around empty into this bustling Italian eatery for weekday lunches featuring hearty platters of lasagna, zesty salads, red wine and iced tea. On Saturdays, the kitchen switches over to a special Persian menu. $$ L D

BISTRO 42 6021 Timber Ridge Dr., 632-2552. Another entry in the dining choices at Prospect Village shopping center. This little family-run place, serving pasta, sandwiches and Italian and American dishes is proud of its 5-cheese 3-meat Bistro lasagna and their 3-hour honey-baked ham, offered at an attractive price. $$ L D hpfe

PORCINI 2730 Frankfort Ave., 894-8686. This anchor trattoria of the Crescent Hill dining scene has been serving up risotto, ossobuco and bistecca since 1992. Crowds wait at the popular bar for one of the tables — or just wait at the bar. $$$ L D hpfe

BLU ITALIAN MEDITERRANEAN GRILLE 280 W. Jefferson St. (Louisville Marriott), See listing under Upscale Casual. BUCA DI BEPPO 2051 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 4932426. Buca di Beppo’s recipe has all the necessary ingredients: huge portions of excellent food served with flair and the Buca scene is fun, a conscious parody of the exuberant decor of family ItalianAmerican restaurants of the 1950s. $$ L D hp CARRABBA’S ITALIAN GRILL 617 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 412-2218. Not your ordinary suburban shopping-center franchise eatery. This place dramatically exceeds expectations. From warmed bread dishes with quality olive oil to first-rate Italian-American fare at reasonable prices. $$$ L D

hpf

COME BACK INN 909 Swan St., 627-1777, 415 Spring St., Jeffersonville IN, 285-1777. With both its branches located in urban neighborhoods, Come Back Inn looks pretty much like any other neighborhood saloon. But unlike most Louisville neighborhood saloons, this one houses a family Italian spot that wouldn’t be out of place in Chicago or Brooklyn. $$ L D p DIFABIO’S CASAPELA ITALIAN RESTAURANT 2311 Frankfort Ave., 891-0411. DiFabio’s Casapela has made its mark in this Crescent Hill space, with a menu that harks back to the red-checked tablecloth and Chianti bottle era of Italian restaurants. Look for baked stuffed mushrooms and toasted ravioli, veal parmesan and chicken piccata, and your choice of pastas with your choice of sauce. $$ D f THE INTERNATIONAL MALL 737 S. Eighth St., 561-8871. $ L D LA BOCCA 134 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 725-9495. This addition to the dining explosion in New Albany serves Italian cuisine, such as chicken piccata and rigatoni Bolognese. Zeppole on the dessert menu bespeaks the New York bono fides of the owner. $$ L D pf LA GALLO ROSSO BISTRO 1325 Bardstown Rd., 4730015. This small but attractive Highlands spot in the Shoppes on the Alley serves casual Italian and Continental food in a cozy family-style setting. $$ D f MARTINI ITALIAN BISTRO 4021 Summit Plaza Dr. 394-9797. Now locally owned, Martini’s continues to serve hearty, well-fashioned Italian entrées, pastas and pizzas, a comfortable approximation of a Tuscan trattoria. An open kitchen with wood-fired oven gives a peek at the culinary goings-on. $$$ L D hpf OLD SPAGHETTI FACTORY 235 W. Market St., 5811070. One of the original ventures of this national firm. Bright and noisy, it offers well-made if basic Italian family fare and dishes it out for surprisingly low prices. $$ L D hp THE OLIVE GARDEN 1320 Hurstbourne Pkwy., 3397190, 9730 Von Allmen Ct., 425-3607, 4805 Outer

QUATTRO 450 S. Fourth St., 618-1904. The shortlived Mozzaria has morphed into Quattro, which sees the return of Bim Deitrich to the Louisville scene. Chef Josh Hillyard, former with Equus, is the chef, exploring the range of Italian cuisine with dishes such as grilled squid with chorizo vinaigrette and hanger steak with salsa rossa. $$ L D hpfe ROCKY’S SUB PUB 715 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville, IN, 282-3844. (See review under Pizza.) ROMANO’S MACARONI GRILL 401 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 423-9220. The Italian-style menu at this casual, Dallas-based family chain includes appetizers, salads, pastas, veal and desserts. Chefs entertain while creating wood-fired pizzas. $$ L D hp SPAGHETTI SHOP 4657 Outer Loop, 969-5545, 4510 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 944-5400. Baked pasta dishes, subs, salads and appetizers are prepared while you wait. $ L D STEVE-O’S ITALIAN KITCHEN 4205 W. Hwy. 146, LaGrange KY, 222-0300. Outstanding pizzas and fine family-style Italian-American dishes make this casual eatery just off I-71 at Buckner well worth a special trip out from the city. $$ L D TUSCANY ITALIAN RESTAURANT 165 Outer Loop, 363-0308. Adding an appetizing option to a stretch of the South End that hasn’t been over-served by restaurants, this good-sized storefront near New Cut Road boasts a Mexican chef who demonstrates an expert’s hand with hearty, red-sauced ItalianAmerican fare at a price that’s right. $$ L D hp VINCENZO’S 150 S. Fifth St., 580-1350. (See listing under Upscale Casual.) VOLARE 2300 Frankfort Ave., 894-4446. The name evokes Sinatra, pasta with tomato sauce and candles in Chianti bottles, but stylish Volare kicks that image up a notch. With a combination of Italian standards and monthly menu updates, Chef Josh Moore has secured Volare a top spot for suave Italian dining. Its U.S.D.A. Prime barrel-cut beef program has received rave reviews. $$$ D hpfe

DE LA TORRE’S 1606 Bardstown Rd., 456-4955. Authentic Castilian fare includes a majestic paella. But the renewed focus at this Highlands standby is tapas, in such variety that you can have anything on the menu in small-plates form. $$$ D hp LA BODEGA 1604 Bardstown Rd., 456-4955. Next door to the excellent De La Torre’s Spanish restaurant, La Bodega offers diners the city’s most authentic Spanishstyle tapas bar, featuring the small bites originally invented in the outdoor cafés of Jerez. $$ D hp MOJITO TAPAS RESTAURANT 2231 Holiday Manor Center, 425-0949. An offshoot of the popular St. Matthews Cuban restaurant Havana Rumba, Mojito quickly established its own identity as the East End spot for Spanish-inspired small plates

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with a global taste profile. Always crowded on weekends; no reservations, but call ahead to get high on the waiting list. $$ L D hpf

BOMBAY GRILL 216 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 425-8892. With its broad array of Indian regional specialties including the requisite lunch buffet, this spot in The Forum on Hurstbourne is winning praise for its aromatic flavors and bountiful portions. $$ L D DAKSHIN INDIAN RESTAURANT 4742 Bardstown Rd., 491-7412. Owned and operated by the same family that brings us Kashmir Restaurant and Bombay Grocery in the Highlands, this addition brings aromatic and spicy Southern Indian fare to the Buechel-Fern Creek neighborhood in the Eastland Shopping Center. $$ B L D p KASHMIR INDIAN RESTAURANT 1277 Bardstown Rd., 473-8765. One of the city’s most popular Indian restaurants, Kashmir is casual, neither posh nor expensive, and it produces an extensive menu of seemingly authentic Indian fare. $$ L D hf LITTLE INDIA CAFÉ 3099 Breckenridge Ln., 479-3353. It’s sort of an Indian fast-food place, set up in a former Quizno’s. The menu includes appetizers such as lentil soup and mirchi bajji — fried lentil-battered stuffed peppers — followed by Northern lamb and vegetarian entrées, tandoori chicken and kebabs. There’s also a selection of Indian breads. A Punjabistyle (Northern Indian) lunch buffet is for those who want really fast service. $ L D f

have elevated the Grape Leaf to destination status, placing it well above the generic Middle Eastern eatery niche. Prices remain affordable, while the food and mood now justify a special trip. $$ L D f

PITA DELIGHTS 1616 Grinstead Dr., 569-1122. This Near Eastern eatery in the Highlands offers a splendid mix of gyros, falafel and other pita-based goodies. $$ L D

LITTLE JERUSALEM 5312 S. Third St., 614-6465. Middle Eastern fare in the ethnic food complex around Iroquiois Manor. The usual things, like hummus and falafel, but also chicken sumac and fatoush and mujadara, made from green lentils, basmati rice, onions and exotic spices. $ L D

PITA HUT 1613 Bardstown Rd., 409-8484. After its expansion more than doubled the space in this once-tiny spot, more diners can enjoy MediterraneanMiddle Eastern favorites, as well as the addition of a few “American” sandwiches — on fresh pita, of course. $ L D

MIRAGE MEDITERRANEAN RESTAURANT 4100 Preston Hwy., 363-7788. The owners of Little Jerusalem lost their lease on Taylor Blvd., and found a new location in a former pizza joint out on Preston, which continues to grow its own international restaurant row. Gyros, hummus, falafel — what one would expect, but done with attention to details and a flair for flavor. $$ L D f

PITA PIT 9816 Linn Station Rd., 565-1220. A franchise operation dedicated to cramming all sorts of fillings into a flatbread pocket. Chomp on a chicken Caesar pita, or a Philly steak pita. Many veggie selections, from garden vegetables to falafel to hummus and baba ganoush. They’re open for breakfast too: ham ’n’ eggs and sausage scramble to go. $ L D

PETRA MEDITERRANEAN RESTAURANT 3904 Bardstown Rd., 749-0924. Another addition to the ethnic choices out in Beuchel. As with many “Mediterranean” restaurants around, the fare is largely confined to that of the Levant schwarmas and hummus and flafel. $$ L D h

SAFFRON’S 131 W. Market St., 584-7800. An unassuming location in an odd spot downtown, but a most pleasant space inside, with food and service that continues to please regulars and delight visitors. The popular menu items continue to be rack of lamb, roasted duck fesenjoon, salomon and kebabs. $$$ L D pf

SHALIMAR INDIAN RESTAURANT 1820 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 493-8899. Modern and sleek in appearance, modest in price, this restaurant has become the patriarch of local Indian restaurants. With a substantial lunch buffet and a full range of dinner items, it has built a loyal clientele. $$ L D SITAR INDIAN RESTAURANT 1702 Bardstown Rd., 473-8889. Named after the Indian stringed musical instrument that Ravi Shankar made famous, Sitar features a full Indian menu and an impressively tasty buffet. It’s the first Louisville property for a tiny new chain with four places in Tennessee and one in Alabama. $$ L D TAJ PALACE 2929 Goose Creek Rd., 423-9692. Focused on Northern Indian cuisine, the menu offers a wide range of chicken, lamb, seafood and vegetarian dishes. Spiciness can be decided by the customer. Lunch buffet and dinner menu. $$ L D f

AL WATAN 3713 Klondike Ln., 454-4406. Classic Arabic dishes home-cooked by friendly people in a cozy environment. That’s the recipe that makes Al Watan a destination for lovers of fine Middle Eastern fare. $ L D BURNING BUSH GRILLE 13206 W. U.S. Highway 42, 228-7776. A franchisee of the popular Shiraz local mini-chain has struck off on his own, cooking healthy Mediterranean foods — kebabs, steak, fish and lamb, salads, pizza, gyros and Balkan burgers. $ L D f CAFÉ 360 1582 Bardstown Rd., 473-8694. Highlands diners enjoy an eclectic and international menu at the friendly corner place, with Southern fried catfish and Indian lamb biryani in immediate juxtaposition. You can get it all, diner-style, just about 24/7. $ B L D hpf THE FALAFEL HOUSE 1001 Bardstown Rd., 4544407. This small Highlands spot is strategically situated to offer quick and affordable sustenance along the Bardstown-Baxter entertainment strip. Look for the usual Middle Eastern fare in a casual, quick-service setting. $$ L D hf GRAPE LEAF 2217 Frankfort Ave., 897-1774. Relatively recent renovations and an expanded menu

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SAFIER MEDITERRANEAN DELI 641 S. Fourth St., 585-1125. You can get standard American fare at this welcoming downtown quick-eats spot, but who’d do that when you can enjoy such appetizing Arabian delights as hummus, mutabal, falafels and the gyros-like (only better) shawarma beef-on-pita sandwich? $ L D f SHIRAZ MEDITERRANEAN GRILL 2011 Frankfort Ave., 891-8854, 2226 Holiday Manor Center, 4269954, 201 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 426-3440, 3521 Poplar Level Rd., 632-2232. From a tiny neighborhood storefront, Shiraz quickly grew out of its original location and expanded into a local mini-chain. In all its locations, Shiraz shines with authentic Persian (Iranian) cooking, such as char-grilled kebabs, fine pitas and lavish bread. $ L D f TUT’S MEDITERRANEAN GRILL 3425 Bardstown Rd., 452-1899. The Buechel area’s hunger for hummus, dolmas, lamb and falafel is well served by this new Middle Eastern eatery. $ L D f THE WAREHOUSE HOOKAH BAR & CAFÉ 504 State St., New Albany IN, 276-5894. Choose from up to 10 flavors of tobacco to relish at the table with friends at this first hookah bar in southern Indiana. Also on offer is a full bar and American pub grub such as pizzas, pita and hummus, corn dogs, jumbo pretzels, chips and salsa or queso to munch on between puffs. $ L D hpe ZAYTUN MEDITERRANEAN GRILL 2286 Bardstown Rd., 365-1788. Fine, freshly prepared seafood is part of the draw in this upper Highlands eatery with an eclectic Middle Eastern menu. Excellent gyros and friendly, sympathetic service kick it up a notch from other hummus joints. $ L D h ZOE’S KITCHEN 500 W. Jefferson St., 585-0000, 4126 Summit Plaza Dr., 329-8963, 3723 Lexington Rd., 409-8963. This chain has been growing throughout the South and Southwest, and now has three Louisville locations. An eclectic menu offers

kabobs, hummus, quesadillas, roll-ups, pita sandwiches and chicken, tuna and shrimp salads. $ L D

J. GUMBO’S 2109 Frankfort Ave., 896-4046, 531 Lyndon Ln., 425-0096, 426 W. Jefferson St., 5899245, 8603 Citadel Way, 493-4720, 3017 Poplar Level Rd., 690-8080. Former jockey Billy Fox has created a popular mini-chain serving hearty, affordable Cajun cuisine. After a stint focusing on expansion, he is now back in the saddle and in the kitchen again, to the delight of his fans. The drunken chicken is addictive. $ B L D f JOE’S OK BAYOU 9874 Linn Station Rd., 426-1320. Fine, filling and authentic Louisiana-style fare is the draw at Joe’s. A lengthy menu and bayou fishing-shack decor showcases authentic Cajun and Creole chow. $$ L D p SELENA’S AT WILLOW LAKE TAVERN 10609 LaGrange Rd., 245-9004. Owner Alan Salmon has brought his Cajun/Creole food and Tampa Bay experience to the old Willow Lake Tavern. The restoration and renovation were extensive, turning this Anchorage roadhouse into a roomy and inviting restaurant. Shrimp or fish with Manale sauce is a tribute to Pascal Manale’s in New Orleans. $$ Br L D hpf

CUBAN FLAVOR 5700 Outer Loop, 618-2181. The flowering of Cuban/Caribbean cuisine is reaching out beyond the city. This little place, in a strip mall, of course, brings black beans and rice and pork asado to Okolona. $ L D CUBANA RESTAURANT 2206 Frankfort Ave., 4094828. Cuban food, a growing segment of the ethnic offerings in town, has another outlet in the busy upper Clifton/lower Crescent Hill dining core.

Using local, seasonal food sources, the menu offers weekly specials that tap into the larger Caribbean/ Central American food traditions. $$ L D pf EL RINCON CUBAN RESTAURANT 8118 Preston Hwy., 742-2768. Bringing Cuban cuisine to Okolona. Along with familiar dishes such as arroz con pollo, the menu also includes specialties such as tasajo (braised beef in tomato sauce), ajiaco (a root vegetable stew made with malanga, yucca and corn) and cremas — a variety of pureed vegetable soups. $ L D EL TENAMPA BAR & GRILL 5412 Del Maria Way, 493-4053. $ L D p HABANA BLUES TAPAS RESTAURANT 148 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 944-9760. Habana Blues’ extensive Cuban menu has a few international dishes, too, and a nice selection of tapas. Also a half-dozen bocaditos (sandwiches) and a few dinner dishes such as paella Valenciana and arroz con pollo. $$ L D pfe HAVANA RUMBA 4115 Oechsli Ave., 897-1959, 12003 Shelbyville Rd., 244-5375. A true taste of Old Havana, this bright, inviting and consistently busy Cuban restaurant has opened a second location, in Middletown, in the strip mall location formerly occupied by Pig City BBQ. Bountiful servings of Cuban fare as good as any in Key West or Miami, not to mention a hopping mojito bar, have earned Havana Rumba a place on our short list of local favorites. $$ L D pf HAVANA RUMBA EXPRESS 2210 Bardstown Rd. This first fast-casual son of the Havana Rumba family brings Cuban and Spanish tapas to the Douglass Loop. This order-at-the-counter concept comes with a lower price point than its parent. Look also for rustic rotisserie chicken and pork, ethnic side dishes and sandwiches. $ L D hpfe IRIES CARIBBEAN CAFÉ 255 Quartermaster Crt., 280-7437. Owners of this new spot are immigrants from the Caribbean islands whose eclectic menu includes ethnic dishes such as jerk chicken, salt cod and plantains, as well as American sandwiches and sides. Their goal is to support a foundation to help the needy and elderly. $ L D LA COLOMBIANA 808 Lyndon Ln., 742-1179. Colombian cuisine is a variant of Latino cooking new to the area. Many of the dishes at this Lyndon-area restaurant feature the arepa, a thick corn cake, including huevos pericos conrepa, a brunch dish. Look for plenty of beef on the menu, including lengua, tongue. Friendly service and no language barrier. $$ L D p PALERMO VIEJO 1359 Bardstown Rd., 456-6461. Louisville’s best source for authentic Argentine cooking: lots of beef (and chicken) slow-cooked over charcoal and Latin versions of Italian dishes, like chicken Milanesa. Palermo Viejo is the Little Italy of Buenos Aires, hometown of owner Francisco Elbl’s father. $$ D pf PUPUSERIA Y TAQUERIA SANTA ROSA 4231 Taylor Blvd., 368-4353. $ L D TAYLOR G’S JAMAICAN JERK 332 W. Broadway, 587-6127. $$ L D

ADOBO MEXICAN RESTAURANT 5612 Bardstown Rd., 618-3430. Fern Creek gets some spicy Mexican with this eatery. The guacamole bar offers a huge portion in a rough stone mortar, just the thing to munch on while sipping a margarita special. $$ L D p BAZO’S FRESH MEXICAN GRILL 4014 Dutchmans Ln., 899-9600, 1907 S. Fourth St., 899-9746. A downtown location joins its Dupont Circle sibling, offering fine fish tacos and simple fast-food Mexican fare in an inexpensive, casual atmosphere. $ L D f CAFE AROMA 2020 Brownsboro Rd., 618-3434. The menu is billed as “world cuisine with a Mexican 86 Summer 2013 www.foodanddine.com

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flair” but it’s really mostly Mexican and really mostly good, according to our friends in the neighborhood. Affordable, casual and filling. What’s not to like? $ L D CHIPOTLE MEXICAN GRILL 315 S. Fourth St., 584-8606. The Fourth St. casual fast-food corridor gets a new addition with Chipotle’s. This chain’s version of Tex-Mex food is made with humanely raised meat products. A second Chipotle already is under construction in the parking lot of the Home Depot (10301 Westport Rd.) and expected to open by summer. $ L D EL BURRITO DE ORO 1927 Greentree Blvd., Clarksville IN, 285-8820. $ L D h EL CAPORAL 2209 Meadow Dr., 473-7840, 1909 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 515 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 282-7174. Louisville’s growing Mexican-American community has fostered a happy trend: excellent, authentic Mexican food. El Caporal bridges the gap between the Latino and Anglo communities. $ L D p EL MARIACHI 9901 La Grange Rd., 413-5770. Early fans of this Mexican restaurant, situated between a bakery and an ethnic grocery, have found much to rave about: tacos and burritos made with the bakery’s fresh tortillas, funky authentic fillings, and quick, friendly service. $ B L D p EL MARLIN SEAFOOD RESTAURANT 1850 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 365-1777. As genuine a take on Mexican seafood cookery as is possible in landlocked Kentucky. Choose mild or spicy preparations of marlin, tilapia, grouper and snapfish. $$ L D p EL MOLCAJETE 8106 Preston Hwy., 742-3485, 3022 S. Third St., 638-0300. $$ L D hp EL MUNDO 2345 Frankfort Ave., 899-9930. This crowded, noisy little Crescent Hill storefront offers creative renditions of Mexican regional specialties that make most diners want to yell “Olé!” The setting may lack the trendy flair of Rick Bayless’ Frontera Grill in Chicago, but the fare mines a similar vein and does so nearly as well. $ L D pf

are fine, but save room for the authentic Mexican seafood specialties. $ L D pf ERNESTO’S 4632 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 671-5291. One of the first of the locally-owned Mexican restaurant groups, Ernesto’s remains consistently reliable. From the crispy home-fried chips to filling Mexican main courses and tasty desserts, it’s a worthy destination for good Mexican food and excellent value. $ L D pfe FIESTA TIME MEXICAN GRILL 11320 Maple Brook Dr., 425-9144, 8133 Bardstown Rd., 231-2444. $ L D p GUACA MOLE 9921 Ormsby Station Rd., 365-4823. Fernando Martinez, veteran of Havana Rumba and Mojitos, has graced the East End with his “creative Mexican” restaurant. The hyphenated name emphasizes the menu’s exploration of different moles, and the creativity comes with modern twists on classic Mexican dishes. Early buzz is hot, for both the food and the up-to-the-minute cocktail program designed by Martinez’s wife Cristina. $$ Br L D pe LA BAMBA 1237 Bardstown Rd., 451-1418. La Bamba boasts of its “burritos as big as your head.” It may be Louisville’s most startling case of an eatery that is more than it appears to be, and that goes for both quality and quantity. Franchised and fast-foodish, it pleasantly surprises with genuine Mexican fare and Latino flair. $ L D h LA CARRETA 7319 Preston Hwy., 742-1320. One of several new Mexican joints to open recently but with a bit more interesting menu than some. Look for Texas quail poppers, shrimp diablo, fajita nachos, and botana platter, as well as quesadillas, taquitos and queso. $$ L D h LA HACIENDA GUADALAJARA 4132 Outer Loop, 384-6427. $$ B L D LA PASADITA 245 Market St., Charlestown IN, 2567918. $ B L D LA POPULAR 2521 Seventh St Rd., 636-3688.$LD p

LA ROSITA TAQUERIA 8730 Westport Rd., 618-4588, 5059 Preston Hwy., 618-2833, 1404 Blackiston Mill Rd., Clarksville IN, 284-1362. For those who crave genuine Mexican tacos, you want them convenient when the urge to scarf one down strikes. These little places will certainly satisfy those cravings. $ L D LA SIERRA RESTAURANT AND TAQUERIA 6501 Shepherdsville Rd., 969-7938. $ L D LAS GORDITAS 4756 Bardstown Rd., 492-0112. As Louisville’s small but thriving Latino community grows, it’s now possible to enjoy an authentic Mexico City-style dining experience at this taco and gordita wagon that rolls up in the Eastland Shopping Center on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays only. Family owners and chefs Pat and Esperanza Costas and Ofelia Ortiz are completely bilingual, and as friendly as can be. $ D hf LOLITA’S TACOS 4222 Poplar Level Rd., 459-4356. This tiny place may look like a fast-food joint, but the food is about as genuine Mexican as you’ll find. Crisp or soft tacos and burritos the size of paper-towel rolls turn a meal here into a real bargain. $ L D f LOS AZTECAS 530 W. Main St., 561-8535, 1107 Herr Ln., 426-3994, 9207 U.S. Hwy. 42, 228-2450. Genuine Mexican cuisine has become a viable option in Louisville, thanks to a growing immigrant com mu nity. With fresh bar and blender offerings, creative appetizers and comfortable seating, Los Aztecas is one of the best, with tasty Mexican dishes good enough to lure us back again and again. $ L D pf LOS MEZCALES 7502 Preston Hwy., 964-3466. A “family Mexican restaurant” on a strip with plenty of such to choose from. Serving huevos ranchero, burritos, chicken a la plancha and camarones a la diabla. $ L D MAYAN CAFÉ 813 E. Market St., 566-0651. Chef Bruce Ucán arguably kicked off the restaurant renaissance

EL NOPAL (16 Locations) These locally owned restaurants have become a growing mini-chain, winning popularity on the basis of delicious and inexpensive Mexican fare in comfortable surroundings. $LD p f EL RANCHERO 2918 Hikes Ln,. 410-5668. Formerly El Rey’s, the new owner has spiffed the space up a bit, and aficionados of Mexican food speak well of the nacho grande, tostadas de ceviche and spicierthan-usual queso. $$ L D p EL SOMBRERO 2784 Meijer St, Jeffersonville IN, 2850109. An Indianapolis restaurant group has taken over the old Bearno’s near Meijer in J’ville, and opened this “Americanized Mexican” restaurant. $ D p EL TARASCO 5425 New Cut Rd., 368-5628, 110 Fairfax Ave., 895-8010, 9901 LaGrange Rd., 3269373, 9606 Taylorsville Rd., 297-8003. Add El Tarasco to the happy new genre of restaurants run by Latinos and offering authentic Mexican food and atmosphere, but that reach out to Anglos and make it easy to enjoy a South-of-the-Border culinary adventure without compromise. $ L D p EL TORAZO 1850 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-7272. A family oriented Mexican restaurant joins the choices at this Hurstbourne shopping strip location. All the expected menu items, as well as some more sophisticated dishes, such as 7 mares sopa, a soup with shrimp, scallops and octopus; banderillas, a colorful beef brochette; and chuleta sabrosa, a Durango-style grilled steak. $$ L D pf EL TORITO DE JALISCO 4325 Preston Hwy., 4098138. $$ L D pf EL TORO CANTINA & GRILL 10602 Shelbyville Rd., 489-3839. One of the top Mexican restaurants in the metro, El Toro earns our recommendation for food, service and environment. Tex-Mex dishes

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in the E. Market St. Nulu district. Opening his stylish bistro, serving distinctive cuisine from Ucán’s native Yucatan Peninsula, before NuLu was fashionable. For the second year his Market Mondays promote locally-raised pastured meats. $$ L D MEXICAN FIESTA 4507 Bardstown Rd., 491-2922 $ L D hp MEXICO TIPICO RESTAURANT 6517 Dixie Hwy., 9339523. One of the region’s first authentic Mexican eateries, Mexico Tipico has built a loyal following for good Mexican food and friendly, fully bilingual service. $ L D pe MEXICO VIEJO 2319 Brownsboro Rd., 893-9880.$LDp PINA FIESTA REAL MEXICAN GRILL 7895 Dixie Hwy., 995-6775. Fans of Mexican food have another place to try, out along the wide, wide highway. You won’t find anything new here, but they say it will be real. $ L D p PUERTO VALLARTA 4214 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 945-3588, 125 Quartermaster Ct., Jeffersonville IN, 288-2022, 7814 Beulah Church Rd., 239-4646. $$ L D p QDOBA MEXICAN GRILL (14 locations). This chain operation extends from Louisville to Frankfort and Lexington. Fast-foodish in style, Qdoba edges out its competitors on variety and interesting salsas, plus sizable portions at a price you can afford. $ L D f RAMIRO’S CANTINA 2350 Frankfort Ave., 8953333. Ramiro Gandara bought out his partners and gave his mom, Tina Ruton Escajeda, control of the kitchen. His Mexican restaurant in the heart of Crescent Hill’s restaurant row has a new name and some unique menu items, such as enchiladas verdes, lobster quesadilla, guacamole burger, and shrimp fajitas. And don’t forget Tina’s specialty: scratch-made tamales. Vegetarian choices too, and a full bar. $ L D hpf ROSTICERIA LUNA 5213 Preston Hwy., 962-8898. Tiny and cluttered and very friendly, this little spot on Preston looks like another tacqueria but the specialty, Mexican-style roasted chicken, takes it to another level, juicy and succulent and roasted golden brown. Chicken simply doesn’t get any better than this. $ L D hp SANTA FE 318 Main Cross St., Charlestown IN, 2562595. $ L D SANTA FE GRILL 3000 S. Third St., 634-3722. This tiny eatery in a century-old South End storefront near Churchill Downs never fails to satisfy with genuine Mexican tacos and other simple fare at prices that will leave you plenty of change for an exacta bet at the races. $ L D SEÑOR IGUANA’S 1415 Broadway St., Clarksville IN, 280-8555, 3105 S. Second St., 368-0876, 9424 Shelbyville Rd., 425-4581, 9909 Taylorsville Rd., 409-9565. These four Mexican-American eateries are known for their hearty, well-prepared Mexican food, and plenty of it, in a casually laid-back, comfortable sports-bar atmosphere. $ L D hpfe SEÑOR TACO 4806 Bardstown Rd., 493-7003. $ L D SIN FRONTERAS 827 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville IN, 292-0901. $$ L D p SOL AZTECAS 2427 Bardstown Rd.,459-7776, 520 S. Fourth St., 315-0666, 129 W. Main St., 583-5505. Saul Garcia, owner of this expanding chain, seems to have a knack for finding hot locations to serve his satisfying fare. He was down on Main St.’s museum row before the museums were, took over the former Raw space on the southern edge of the hot Fourth St. Live corridor, and now has his classiest location on Whiskey Row, a handsome renovation with a more sophisticated Mexican decor, and a broader Mexican menu. $ L D hpf TACO TICO 5925 Terry Rd., 449-9888. Founded in Wichita in 1962, the same year as Taco Bell was born in Southern California, the Taco Tico chain has been 88 Summer 2013 www.foodanddine.com

gone from Louisville for more than a decade. Its happy return has been drawing remarkable crowds. $LD TACQUERIA LA MEXICANA 6201 Preston Hwy., 969-4449. The tacos are fine at this tiny storefront. This is seriously ethnic stuff, but Anglos are thoroughly welcome, the staff is bilingual, and they will happily provide a menu with all the English translations written in. $ L D YELLOW CACTUS 3620 Paoli Pk., Floyds Knobs IN, 903-0313. A yellow neon cactus draws diners to this Indiana restaurant that offers standard Mexican cantina fare, as well as steak and chicken in both American and Mexican styles, and a few seafood dishes. $ L D hp

CHUY’S 104 Oxmoor Crt., 327-3033, 1440 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 282-2489. The Austin, Texas “unchain,” has two area locations, offering a complimentary happy hour nacho “car bar” set in the back end of a 50s era auto, plenty of Elvis memorabilia, and a wall of chihuahua photos. Oh, and Tex-Mex food at reasonable prices. $$ L D hpf MOE’S SOUTHWEST GRILL 2001 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-1800, 1001 Breckinridge Ln., 8936637, 4652 Chamberlain Ln., 425-3330, 1020 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 288-6637, 9310 Cedar Center Way, 614-7722. The food may be more fast-food Mexican-American than authentic South-of-the-Border fare, but it is freshly made from quality ingredients and comes in oversize portions, and that’s not a bad thing. $ L D SALSARITA’S FRESH CANTINA 285 N. Hubbards Ln., 897-5323, 12915 Shelbyville Rd., 365-1424. Another entry in the hot “Fresh Mexican” niche that features gigantic burritos made to order. Now with two locations, in St. Matthews and Middletown. $ LDf TACO PUNK 736 E. Market St., 584-8226. (See review under Casual Dining) TUMBLEWEED TEX MEX GRILL & MARGARITA BAR (15 locations). Starting as a humble Mexican restaurant in New Albany, Tumbleweed grew to become an area favorite serving bold, southwest-inspired food such as burritos, spicy chile con queso, mesquitegrilled steaks, fish and chicken. Each Tumbleweed Margarita Bar offers two dozen tequila varieties and dozens of sweet and tangy margarita combinations. Sip one while savoring the river-view at its flagship River Road location. $ L D hp

BEAN STREET COFFEE CO. 101 Lafollette Station, Floyds Knobs IN, 923-1404. Bean Street introduced the Sunny Side to the joys of serious espresso. Like all good coffee shops, they’re not just an eatery, but a cultural hangout. $ CAFFE CLASSICO 2144 Frankfort Ave., 895-0076. (See review under Bistro/Contemporary.) COFFEE CROSSING 4212 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 981-2633. $ f DAY’S ESPRESSO AND COFFEE BAR 1420 Bardstown Rd., 456-1170. Dark and cozy, with an oldfashioned feeling, Day’s has everything you would expect in a college-neighborhood coffee shop except a college near by. $ hf EXPRESSIONS OF YOU 1800 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 584-6886. $ fe GREEN ROOM COFFEE 3640 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-9396. Inside the Hurstbourne Music Center, music lovers can find music-themed breakfast dishes to fortify them as they shop for instruments or practice their craft. $ e

HEINE BROTHERS COFFEE (13 locations) With the absorption of the VINT outlets, Heine Bros. asserts their dominance in the local brewing scene. The stores are always friendly and affordable, with good coffee roasted on the premises and a short list of pastries, desserts and panini sandwiches. $ hfe HIGHLAND COFFEE CO. 1140 Bardstown Rd., 4514545. Offering two ways to get wired, this cozy neighborhood coffee shop also functions as one of Louisville’s top Internet cafés, where you can enjoy a hot cappuccino while you surf the ’net in a WiFi hot spot. Funky Seattle-style ambience is a plus. $ hf THE HOBKNOBB ROASTING CO. 3700 Paoli Pike, Floyds Knobs IN, 923-1458, 419 State St., New Albany IN, 944-4555. HobKnobb offers fresh hot coffee, espresso drinks and fresh baked pastries, cakes and cookies. $ fe JAVA BREWING COMPANY 4828 Norton Healthcare Blvd., 339-4744, 135 S. English Station Rd., 489-5677, 1707 Bardstown Rd., 384-3555. These casual spots boasts the ambience of a friendly old-fashioned book shop, with comfortable seating, a good selection of pastries, and quality coffee from Seattle. $ fe KAELIN’S COFFEEHOUSE 1801 Newburg Rd., 6322818. This bright new addition to the breakfast and caffeine needs of the west side of the Highlands is physically attached to Mulligan’s Bar, which, of course, squats in the space forever to be known as “the old Kaelin’s.” Early reports laud the strong coffee, pleasant service and breakfast choices, from bagels to egg sandwiches. $ B L KING’S COFFEE 406 Popp Ave., Sellersburg IN, 7489448. Sellersburg gets a taste of espresso, chai and exotic teas, along with fresh pastries. $ LOUISVILLE TEA COMPANY 9305 New LaGrange Rd., 365-2516. Teas of all sorts, pastries and cookies make for a perfect morning snack the English call “elevenses.” $ B L MRS. POTTER’S COFFEE 718 W. Main St., 581-1867.$ f PERKFECTION 359 Spring St., Jeffersonville IN, 218-0611.$ PLEASE AND THANK YOU 800 E. Market St. Another addition to the burgeoning choices in NuLu district, this little coffee house with a difference serves breakfast and lunch, and offers an eclectic selection of vinyl records, which can be sampled in a listening room. Try the ganache latte, Thai iced coffee, granola parfait, Capriole cheese with honey and grapes on a baguette, or a field greens salad with dried cherries and blue cheese. $ f QUILL’S COFFEE SHOP 930 Baxter Ave., 742-6129, 327 W. Cardinal Blvd., 690-5553, 137 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 590-3426. This local purveyor of excellent coffee and provider of amenable working spaces has opened two new locations, in the new U of L student housing, and in the midst of the NuLu action. $ f RED HOT ROASTERS 1402 Payne St., 569-0000, 901 S. Fourth St. (Spalding University), 585-9911. The drive-through take-away joint (entrance off Lexington Rd.) has added a space at Spalding, with an expanded menu and new cold-brewed iced coffee drinks. Excellent whole beans roasted on the premises are also available at groceries. $ SISTER BEAN’S 5225 New Cut Rd., 364-0082. $ f SMOKEY’S BEAN 1451 S. First St., 749-6900. Located on the corner of 1st and Burnett, this new coffeehouse and sandwich shop gives more choice to Old Louisville residents. Locally roasted coffee plus frappes. On Friday and Saturday nights sit down and puff on a hookah until 2 a.m. $ hf SONOMA COFFEE CAFÉ 3309 Poplar Level Rd., 384-0044. The first outlet in Kentucky of this franchise coffeteria. $ STARBUCKS COFFEE (35 locations) $ f

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SUNERGOS COFFEE 2122 S. Preston St., 634-1243, 306 W. Woodlawn Ave., 368-2820, 231 S. Fifth St., 589-3222. Matthew Huested and Brian Miller used to roast their own coffee beans as a hobby. Their friends said they did it so well, they should turn pro — the result is Sunergos Coffee. $ e TAZZA MIA 9700 Bluegrass Pkwy. (Ramada Plaza Hotel), 491-4830. The Cincinnati-based coffee shop joins the food options at the Ramada Plaza in eastern Jefferson County. Patrons can find breakfast pastries such as Danishes and muffins along with the house-roasted coffees. $ TRAILSIDE CAFÉ 1321 Herr Ln., 423-1545. $ VINT COFFEE 2309 Frankfort Ave., 894-8060, Now owned by Heine Bros. this Crescent Hill location is the only one that keeps the name that reflects the concept that all their beverages — coffee, tea, ale and wine — will “have a vintage, an annual release cycle.” $ f

2 DIPS AND A SHAKE 321 W. Main St., 566-3258. Got an ice cream craving? Specifically a Comfy Cow craving but you don’t have the time to rush from downtown to the ‘burbs to sate it? Then visit this spot across the street from Actors Theater to get your fix. $ f ADRIENNE & CO. BAKERY CAFÉ 129 W. Court Ave., Jeffersonville IN, 282-2665. If you need something for your sweet tooth and won’t be denied, count yourself lucky if the craving strikes when you’re in the vicinity of this cozy Southern Indiana spot, with its good selection of homemade cakes and treats. $ f ANNIE MAY’S SWEETS CAFÉ 3110 Frankfort Ave., 384-2667. The only gluten and nut-free bakery in the state caters to customers with dietary issues such as celiac disease and allergies. Cookies, brownies, cakes, pies, wedding cakes all made without wheat, dairy, eggs, soy or tree nuts. Arrive early, before the vegan and allergen-free oatmeal cream pie cookie sells out. $ THE BAKERY 3100 Bardstown Rd., 452-1210. Not just a fine bakery but a place where bakers learn their business, this excellent establishment is part of the culinary program at Sullivan University. It’s hard to beat the quality breads and pastries offered here to eat in or carry out. $ BREADWORKS 3628 Brownsboro Rd., 893-3200, 2420 Lime Kiln Ln., 326-0300, 2204 Dundee Rd., 452-1510, 11800 Shelbyville Rd., 254-2885. $ B CAKE FLOUR 909 E. Market St., 719-0172. This jewel box shop serves up precious French pastries, quiche, scones and sweets seven days a week. The chef’s all-natural ethos and locavore connections make for exquisite tastes. $ f CELLAR DOOR CHOCOLATES 1201 Story Ave., 561-2940. Erika Chavez-Graziano continues her chocolate explorations at her artsy shop in the Butchertown Market building on Story Ave., Look for esoteric, but luscious, inventive chocolate confections such as beer flavored truffles and avocado soft-centers. $ THE COMFY COW 1301 Herr Ln., 425-4979, 2223 Frankfort Ave., 409-4616, 339 W. Cardinal Blvd., 409-5090. This “new-fashioned” ice-cream parlor made an immediate splash in its original Westport Village location with its intriguing range of flavors (salted caramel, fresh roasted coffee, peanut peanut butter butter), and is in the throes of expansion, into the historic building on Frankfort next to the old Genny’s Diner and in the U of L project at the old Masterson’s site in Old Louisville. $ hf

COPPER CUPCAKE 10616 Meeting St., 708-2418. The goodies in this gourmet bakery in Norton Commons are baked by a California Culinary Academy graduate who touts using premium ingredients in her confections. On offer are seasonal breakfast breads, regular and filled cupcakes, cookies, whoopie pies and even peanut butter woofers — bone-shaped crunchy chews for “man’s best friend.” $ THE CUPCAKE SHOPPE 3701 Lexington Rd., 8992970. You won’t need three guesses to name the specialty at this little St. Matthews bakery, which has gained instant popularity for its wide variety of moist, tender cupcakes, always made in house. $ DALAT’S GATEAUX & BAKERY 6915 Southside Dr., 368-9280. It’s a French bakery, run by a Vietnamese family, which makes perfect sense. Order French pastry, cakes and cookies as well as Vietnamese specialties. Savory choices, such as pork pate wrapped in choux pastry are also available. $ DESSERTS BY HELEN 3500 Frankfort Ave., 451-7151. Helen Friedman has earned a loyal clientele since the 1970s with her elegant cakes, tempting pies and tortes and designer cookies. $$ DUNKIN DONUTS 1250 Bardstown Rd., 290-3865. You will find hot sandwiches as well as doughnuts and coffee, just what you need to get you going in the morning or to get you steady enough to get home at night. $ B L h THE FUDGERY 416 S Fourth St.(Fourth Street Live), 409-7484.$ GELATO GILBERTO 9434 Norton Commons Blvd., 423-7751. Justin and Kristin Gilbert so loved the gelato they ate as students in Italy that they returned there after graduating to study gelato making. Their popular store draws fans out to Norton Commons, though owners can often be found scooping cones and cups at special events. Their store menu includes pies and crepes as well. $ h GIGI’S CUPCAKES 1977 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 4994998. The first outpost of the Tennessee bakery chain in Kentucky, this little shop offers a changing selection of high-end cupcakes in designer flavors — Bailey’s Irish cream, apple spice, coconut snowball, and so on. $ GREAT HARVEST BREAD COMPANY 1225 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 412-8573 $ B L HEITZMAN TRADITIONAL BAKERY & DELI 9426 Shelbyville Rd., 426-7736, 428 W. Market St., 5842437. The Heitzman family has been baking in the Louisville area since your great-aunt was a girl ordering dinner rolls. Made fresh daily, the pies, cakes, cookies and specialty pastries provide tasty nostalgia for all who visit. $ HOMEMADE ICE CREAM & PIE KITCHEN 2525 Bardstown Rd., 459-8184, 1041 Bardstown Rd., 618-3380, 3737 Lexington Rd., 893-3303, 12613 Taylorsville Rd., 267-6280, 3598 Springhurst Blvd., 326-8990, 12531 Shelbyville Rd., 245-7031, 5606 Bardstown Rd., 239-3880, 3113 Blackiston Mill Rd., Clarksville IN, 590-3580, 2232 Frankfort Ave., 409-6100. $ L D hf

MARLYCE’S PLACE 1404 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville IN, 551-5577. A Triangle Center stop for anyone needing a sweets fix. Come in for a line up for elaborately decorated cakes, custom cookies, cupcakes, pies, fudge and sweet breads. Need a cake in the shape of an enchanted castle for your little princess’s birthday? Call Marlyce. $ MY FAVORITE MUFFIN 9800 Shelbyville Rd., 4269645. All the muffins are made right in the store, including such popular choices as the Cinnamon Crumb and the Turtle Muffin. $ B NORD’S BAKERY 2118 S. Preston St., 634-0931. This old-school, family-owned bakery on the edge of Germantown has a devoted following, drawn by divine Danish, donuts, and great coffee from the nearby Sunergos micro-roastery — and if you’re a sucker for over-the-top excess, try the caramel donut topped with — yes, it’s true, bacon. $ B PLEHN’S BAKERY 3940 Shelbyville Rd., 896-4438. A neighborhood institution, this bakery is as busy as it is nostalgic. Enjoy the hometown soda fountain with ice cream while you wait for your handdecorated birthday cake, breakfast rolls or colorful cookies to be boxed. $ B POLICE DONUTS 12416 Shelbyville Rd., 244-1880. The first incarnation of this jokey concept did not quite work out, but new ownership is trying again, putting out good bakery products at reasonable prices. $ B STATE DONUTS 12907 Factory Ln., 409-8825. $ SUGAR AND SPICE DONUT SHOP 5613 Bardstown Rd., 231-1411. This Fern Creek bakery has loads of loyal fans, who often buy out their favorite donut by mid-morning. Coffee to go too, of course, and even little half-pints of chocolate milk. $ B SWEET STUFF BAKERY 323 E. Spring St., New Albany IN, 948-2507. This long-time southern Indiana home-style bakery is noted for baked goods just like your grandmother made. Its specialty: painted sugar cookies, with designs in white chocolate that change with the seasons and holidays. Also custom cookie and cake designs. $ B SWEET SURRENDER 1804 Frankfort Ave., 899-2008. Sweet Surrender, with Jessica Haskell at the helm, has returned to its original Clifton neighborhood to provide elegant desserts as well as signature vegetarian lunches. $$ hf SWEETS & SUCH BAKERY 3947 Dixie Hwy., 4491008. A Shively area neighborhood bakery. Cupcakes and cookies, brownies and cake, but its renown stems from the Presidential donut, a cream-filled concoction that won Bill Clinton’s admiration. $ WILLIAM’S BAKERY 1051 N. Clark Blvd., Clarksville IN, 284-2867. $ B WILTSHIRE PANTRY BAKERY AND CAFÉ 901 Barret Ave., 581-8561 (See listing under Cafés.)

HONEY CREME DONUT SHOP 514 Vincennes St., New Albany IN, 945-2150. Off the beaten track, this down-homey bakery in a plain white building offers a wide selection of doughnuts, fritters and Danish that keeps the shop’s fans coming back again and again. $ B JASMIN BAKERY 3825 Bardstown Rd., 458-0013. This “European-style” bakery offers fresh breads and rolls, as well as Eastern Mediterranean fare, such as gyros and baklava, at reasonable prices. $ B L

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

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MAP INDEX

MAP # DIRECTION PAGE # DOWNTOWN 92 1 downtown louisville 93 NEAR EAST 2 highlands – crescent hill 94 NEAR EAST 3 st. matthews 95 SOUTH EAST 4 hikes point – buechel 96 EAST 5 hurstbourne – anchorage 97 EAST 6 hurstbourne s. – jeffersontown 98 NORTH EAST 7 indian hills – westport 98 FAR NORTH EAST 8 westport rd. – gene snyder NA NEW MAP 9 under construction 99 NORTH EAST 10 prospect 99 SOUTH EAST 11 fern creek 100 SOUTH WEST 12 shively – pleasure ridge 101 SOUTH 13 old louisville – airport 102 INDIANA 14 new albany – floyds knobs 103 INDIANA 15 clarksville 103 INDIANA 16 jeffersonville

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DOWNTOWN

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(NEAR EAST) HIGHLANDS – CRESCENT HILL – CLIFTON

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(NEAR EAST) ST. MATTHEWS

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(SOUTH EAST) HIKES POINT – BUECHEL

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(EAST) LYNDON – HURSTBOURNE – ANCHORAGE – MIDDLETOWN

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(EAST) HURSTBOURNE SOUTH – FOREST HGILLS – JEFFERSONTOWN

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(FAR NORTH EAST) WESTPORT RD – GENE SNYDER

(NORTH EAST) INDIAN HILLS – WESTPORT

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(SOUTH EAST) FERN CREEK

(NORTH EAST) PROSPECT

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(SOUTH WEST) SHIVELY – PLEASURE RIDGE

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(SOUTH) OLD LOUISVILLE – AIRPORT

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(INDIANA) NEW ALBANY – FLOYDS KNOBS

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(INDIANA) JEFFERSONVILLE

(INDIANA) CLARKSVILLE

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