Spring 2013 (Vol. 39) by Food & Dining Magazine

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SPRING 2013 | FEB - MAR - APR www.foodanddine.com

profiles st. charles exchange|manny & merle|feast bbq

restaurant guide

(pictured) St. Charles Exchangeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

braised lamb shank.

over 1,000 restaurant listings and maps to them all

chef Q&A porcini|uptown cafĂŠ

plus

lobster feast|$10 challenge coffee + spirits|beer trends

NOW

FREE

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SPRING 2013 PUBLISHER / EDITOR-IN-CHIEF JOHN CARLOS WHITE BUSINESS MANAGER PAUL M. SMITH ONLINE EDITOR STEVE COOMES COLUMNISTS ROGER A. BAYLOR GREG GAPSIS DAVID LANGE ASHLEE CLARK THOMPSON ENTERTAINMENT EDITORS-AT-LARGE TIM & LORI LAIRD CONTRIBUTING WRITERS CARLA CARLTON J. CHRISTIAN WALSH KATY YOCOM CHIEF PHOTOGRAPHER DAN DRY MAGAZINE DESIGN AND LAYOUT JOHN CARLOS WHITE GRAPHIC DESIGN KATHY KULWICKI STEFAN TAMBURRO COPY EDITOR KATHY KULWICKI SALES MANAGER GINA R. WOLFE ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES ANNETTE B. WHITE BART WHITEHOUSE IN FOND MEMORY OF OUR DEAR FRIEND DANIEL F. BOYLE

Food & Dining Magazine® is published quarterly by Louisville Dining Magazine, Inc. P.O. Box 665, Louisville KY 40201 The publisher and advertisers are not responsible or liable for misprints, typographical errors or misinformation. The opinions expressed herein are those of the writers and do not necessarily reflect the opinion of the publisher. +Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited. All rights reserved.

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Annual Subscription rate $18. Submit subscription requests to: Food & Dining Magazine® P.O. Box 665, Louisville KY 40201 or call (502) 509-EATS (3287) or subscribe online at

www.foodanddine.com facebook.com/foodanddine follow us on Twitter @FDzine For Advertising information call (502) 509-EATS (3287) ON THE COVER: St. Charles Exchange’s braised lamb shank. (see story page 20) Photo by Dan Dry 4

Spring 2013 www.foodanddine.com

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contents

SPRING 2013 - VOLUME 39

RESTAURANT GUIDE

DINING GUIDE Our comprehensive listing of over 1,000 area restaurants complete with reviews.

MAPS (RESTAURANT LOCATOR)

Find all of the restaurants in our Dining Guide on these user-friendly maps.

FEATURES CHEF Q & A: Two chefs — Matt Weber of Uptown

Café and John Plymale of Porcini — answer a few questions you’ve always wanted to ask.

PROFILES

ST. CHARLES EXCHANGE Through their décor and menu offerings, St. Charles Exchange will transport you to another time.

MANNY & MERLE Tony Palombino’s latest brainstorm adds country funk to Whiskey Row.

FEAST BBQ The masked man and his modern take on the world’s oldest cuisine — BBQ.

COLUMNS STARTERS

COMINGS & GOINGS A summary of changes on the local restaurant scene, with openings, closings, moves and more.

FOOD $10 CHALLENGE: The Fish House & Café Beignet

The Fish House wins the author’s mother’s seal of approval, but can it pass our $10 challenge?

FROM THE EARTH: Clearwater Seafood Outpost of the Atlantic Maritimes thrives in Louisville.

EASY ENTERTAINING: Lobster Feast

32 38

Our experts take the fear out of cooking lobster, and the reward is well worth the effort.

LIQUIDS

COFFEE: Coffee & Spirits Our coffee expert teams up with our entertainment guru to introduce coffee to a few sunny day libations.

HIP HOPS: Tale of the trub Our prognosticator picks six craft beer trends for 2013.

www.facebook.com/foodanddine Spring 2013

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starters comings & goings

comings&goings As the off-again, on-again winter segues, we look toward a more promising spring, when we can more fully enjoy a local restaurant scene that is still relatively stable, despite a few notable closings. There has been a modest uptick in new enterprises, including three new directions by long-time movers in the industry. In the last three months or so there have been, or soon will be, 17 new restaurant choices, and four existing restaurants have added at least one new outlet. On the debit side of the roster, 10 restaurants have closed, most notably Lynn’s Paradise Café, and six others with multiple locations have trimmed back a bit. All those involved in feeding the public can be relieved that things seem, for the moment, copacetic.

NEW TABLES Among the new enterprises to mention this quarter, two of them are creations of local restaurant heavyweights: The basement space at Actors Theatre of Louisville, 316 W. Main Street, has seen a series of restaurant and bar concepts over the years, but the newest, Milkwood, is arguably the most anticipated since its creator is Edward Lee, celebrated chef-owner of 610 Magnolia. Over the past two years, Lee has enjoyed copious national exposure including a large spread in the secondto-last issue of Gourmet magazine, a victory on Iron Chef America, and a third place finish on Top Chef, where he made some appealing creations from animal cheeks and tongues. The innately artsy, sub-street-level room has been made over to match a menu of clever interpretations of bistro cuisine influenced by the “Asian pantry.” Expect lines of people waiting to sample his pre-show menu for sure, and crowds happy to trot downstairs after the plays for drinks and hobnobbing with cast and crew. Building on previous restaurant successes, including Guaca Mole, co-owner Fernando Mar tinez, along with wife Christina and cousin Yaniel, have opened Mussel & Burger Bar in the large space briefly occupied a few years ago by Caffé Perusa at 9200 Taylorsville Road. Converting the wide-open and extravagantly decorated space designed for its first role as a fine-dining spot, Martinez and his crew have created a seemingly more intimate eatery where customers enjoy fresh mussels and half-pound burgers — each offered in a number of unique and savory versions. This restaurant is part of the family’s desire to open a new dining concept each year, an aggressive goal, no doubt, given the competitive local restaurant scene. Another irrepressible local restaurateur who continues to 6

Spring 2013 www.foodanddine.com

generate public-pleasing ideas is Tony Palombino. His latest venture brings him downtown with Manny & Merle in the Whiskey Row space at 122 W. Main Street, which old-timers will remember as Zena’s Café. Inspired by his discovery of Mexican street food during excursions to the Baja Peninsula and his love for the straight-up, earthy country music of Merle Haggard and others, Palombino’s new place features live music from local and Nashville bands, and a ModMex bar cuisine that shows locals another way to appreciate south-of-the-border flavors. Other notable openings include Banh Mi Hero, at 2245 Bardstown Road, specializing in modern interpretations of the classic Vietnamese sandwich served on French baguette. Can’t wrap your choppers around a big sandwich? Asian-inspired tacos and rice bowls fill out the menu. Antique browsers fond of Goss Avenue Antiques and Interiors, at 946 Goss Avenue, have long enjoyed the on-premise café for refueling after a morning of booth-prowling. The current iteration in the space is That Place on Goss, a solid lunch stop that includes Sunday brunch. Soups, salads, sandwiches, wraps, desserts — grab a bite and get back to the treasure hunt. Former It’s All Greek To Me owner Maria Bell has a new venture, Chef Maria’s Greek Deli, at 102 Fairfax Avenue, in St. Matthews. Food 4 Ur Soul has set up shop in the convenient space on the corner of Fifth and Chestnut (612 S. Fifth Street) that has seen a lot of turnover in recent years. At 2208 Bardstown Road, Mucho Queso Pizzeria has moved into the space once inhabited by Fat Jimmy’s Pizza. The name promises a Mexican take on pizzas, but we have yet to visit for confirmation. Momma’s Mustard, Pickles and BBQ, at 102 Bauer Avenue, offers Kansas City-style pork and beef ribs, pulled pork, brisket and

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chicken, smoked turkey, and, when available, burnt ends. Also, jars of housemade mustard and pickles, of course. 30 Red Sports Saloon, at 9601 Newbridge Road, is a new place for Fern Creek’s Cardinals fans to congregate and cheer, and Marlyce’s Place, 1404 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville, is a new bakery offering custom cookies and cakes. In addition to those newly opened, locally owned businesses, five new restaurant chains have entered the area. There are now two Cattleman’s Roadhouses in town, at 2901 S. Hurstbourne Parkway and 139 Historical Trail in Shepherdsville. The Kentucky chain has been developing around the area, in Frankfort and Shelbyville, and has now penetrated this market. Decker’s Grilled Sandwiches at 2350 Greene Way is a new concept extension of the venerable White Castle chain, offering slider fans an alternative of pressed sandwiches. Raising Cane’s has a simple business plan — sell chicken fingers, fries, coleslaw and soda. The Louisiana-based chain has opened an outlet at 10490 Westport Road. Jamba Juice’s blenders are now humming in Louisville’s Fourth Street Live district at 320 S. Fourth Street. And the nation’s largest Chinese fast-food chain, Panda Express, has brought one of its 1,500-plus units here to offer its take on Americanstyle Chinese food. Get your own bowl at 1075 Veterans Parkway in Clarksville. Local places on the grow include Lonnie’s Best Taste of Chicago, which has a new store at 8129 Preston Highway. Sala Thai has opened a second location at 10403 Glenmary Farm Drive and SuperChef’s Breakfast, a sort of pop-up restaurant idea that ser ves hear ty, creative breakfast dishes in places that aren’t open before lunch, has now also taken over the kitchen at Seafood Connection, 3941 Chenoweth Lane, in addition to the original space in the Gyro’s restaurant in Clifton.

CLOSINGS The most surprising closing, and one which will continue to be discussed for a while, was the abrupt shuttering of nationally known Lynn’s Paradise Café at 984 Barret Avenue. Lynn Winter’s critics and supporters have debated for weeks why she closed, and the whole story will likely unfold slowly, if ever. Savvy restaurant watchers believe, however, that Winter isn’t gone from the scene for good. www.facebook.com/foodanddine Spring 2013

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Fans will long lament the closing of a couple of other local establishments. Maido Essential Japanese, 1758 Frankfort Avenue, so influential in expanding locals’ under standing of Japanese food beyond sushi, closed with the death of its chef-owner. The closing of Joe Davola’s, 901 Barret Avenue, deprives Highland sandwich eaters of a place with solid, interesting choices. Two locations at Fourth Street Live are now gone: Pub Louisville and the Improv Comedy Club/Wet Willy’s, revealing once again that the downtown entertainment complex is a hard nut to crack successfully. Also downtown, Main Street Tavern closed its space at 122 W. Main Street (it was snapped up quickly by Manny & Merle). Other closings have been small neighborhood places that did not find sufficient traffic or word of mouth buzz: Queenie’s Soul Cuisine at 2956 Richmond Avenue; La Tapatia at 3022 S. Third Street; Café Aroma at 2295 Lexington Road; and Corner Door Bar & Grill at 2222 Dundee Road. City Café closed its spot at the Baxter Avenue side of Mid City Mall, 1250 Bardstown Road, but retains a pair of other locations. Bearno’s closed up shop at 1923 S. Fourth Street, but continues to bake pies at a dozen other outlets. Cellar Door Chocolates shut its little space in the Galt House, 140 N. Fourth Street, but still makes and sells continually interesting and cutting-edge confections from its Butchertown shop. Great Harvest Bread Company shut its New Albany store at 4214 Charlestown Road, though two area stores remain. Fat Jimmy’s Pizza closed one branch at 2208 Bardstown Road, but has two others, and the Oishii Sushi location at 2245 Bardstown Road has closed, leaving just one.

MOVES & CHANGES Still on the scene at the local library, Earth Friends Café has moved its New Albany Grant Line Road location to 829 E. Market Street in Louisville. The Fourth Street Live restaurant that was so briefly Mozzaria has reopened as Quattro, with a modern Italian food focus. And finally, the folks at Heine Brothers Coffee have been busy. They opened a new location at 4305 Shelbyville Road and, after purchasing the brand, brought the majority of the VINT Coffee shops under their banner — bringing the total locations bearing the name Heine Brothers to 13. One VINT-branded store remains in Clifton. F&D www.facebook.com/foodanddine Spring 2013

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about food $10 challenge

BY ASHLEE CLARK THOMPSON | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

I had to try The Fish House when the restaurant received my mother’s seal of approval. Mommy has always been a notoriously finicky eater. And a few years ago, a doctor diagnosed her with a laundry list of food allergies ranging from carrots to cucumbers. So imagine my delight when she finds a local restaurant that addresses her dietary restrictions, offers enough menu options to please her picky palate, and provides food that actually tastes good. The Fish House met Mommy’s high standards and has been added to the list of restaurants she frequents. This is a good sign for the rest of us. The Fish House is a seafood restaurant that transforms into Café Beignet, a New Orleans-style brunch eatery, on weekend mornings. This winning combination offers down-home food so authentic that it transports diners to the gulf shore within two bites of fresh scrod or sweet beignets. And with plenty of dishes less than $10, a visit to this restaurant is probably the cheapest way to travel. The Fish House is in a modest white and blue building that sits near the corner of Winter and Barrett Avenues. The restaurant feels as if it has been plucked from a riverfront. The main dining area is more of a well-insulated enclosed porch. The walls and windows are full of fluorescent beer signs, family photos and newspaper clippings praising the venue. Weekend mornings are dedicated to Café Beignet, which offers a different menu from its weekday Fish House identity. The brunch menu features traditional breakfast dishes like a ham and cheese omelet with fried potatoes ($7.95) and link sausage ($2.95). But the star of the show is the beignet ($1.25 each or $2.95 for three), a hollow French pastry fried and coated in powdered sugar that is popular in New Orleans.

$10

challenge

The Fish House & Café Beignet

Scrod sandwich combo (choice of bread not pictured)

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Good food shouldn’t be a luxur y. In this column, I set out to prove that it is possible to eat a high-quality, low-cost meal within Louisville’s diverse and expanding food scene. My goal is to find a meal at a local restaurant that costs $10 or less (excluding the tip), an ideal limit for those of us who are cashstrapped but have a hard time sacrificing a nice meal outside of the house. The restaurant was a beacon on a damp weekday night when my husband and I rushed in about an hour before closing. A University of Kentucky game played across the flat-screen TVs, while country music piped in through the restaurant’s speakers. The clutter, cacophony of sounds and bright lights welcomed us to a warm, unpretentious environment that offered meals with the same comforting qualities. The Fish House side of this establishment’s identity serves several kinds of fish to seafood lovers like me — scrod, catfish, tilapia and haddock.These are available as sandwiches (starting at $4.95) or dinners that come with fries and coleslaw ($9.95-$13.95). Not too big on fish fillets? Shrimp, pan-fried oysters and clams are also available. The side dishes are even more diverse than the main dishes. Most seafood joints end their offerings after hush puppies, French fries and coleslaw. The Fish House goes above and beyond with choices like green beans with bacon ($1.75), potato pancakes ($2.50), and macaroni and cheese ($1.75). All these choices kept me at the counter for a few long minutes. Fortunately, the cashier was patient until I settled on a fried scrod sandwich combo that included fries and slaw ($7.95). While we waited for our meal, my husband and I helped ourselves to a stack of little paper cups and filled them with house-made jalapeño tartar sauce.The condiment was an intriguing mint-green concoction that mellows out the usual kick of jalapeños while retaining the pepper’s flavor. The food arrived in less than 10 minutes. My meal was a piping hot tangle of brown — crisp French fries, two fillets of scrod and a wheat bun. But upon closer inspection, I could see plenty of flecks of black pepper mixed into the dark yellow cornmeal breading of the fish. The lack of color was solved when I spread some jalapeño tartar sauce onto the fish. The fish was so fresh it could have been pulled out of the water that morning. The crust hugged each fillet and crunched with every bite. The jalapeño tartar sauce complemented the peppery fish perfectly. The French fries were some of the best I’ve had in ages. Not too skinny, not too fat, and very, very crispy. A splash of malt vinegar on the fish and the fries added a finishing touch to my tasty meal. My husband was just as pleased with his choice of the fried clam strip dinner ($9.95). The bite-sized strips were salty on the inside with a generous breading on the outside. It was hard to resist popping them into our mouths like breath mints. The coleslaw tempered all of the fried food we consumed. This cabbage-based side dish was creamy and a little sweet, a necessity after a plate full of salty items. As I scurried to my car clutching a to-go box with a leftover piece of scrod and some slaw, I realized why my mother had become so fond of The Fish House. The menu has a little something for everyone, and the restaurant serves its wide selection in a cozy spot that can take you to another world. It indeed pays to listen to your mother. F&D

The Bottom Line: Scrod Sandwich Combo: $7.95 Fried Clam Strip Dinner: $9.95 Total (with tax and before tip): $18.97 Total for each person: $9.48 Mission: Accomplished — twice. Beignets (served weekend mornings) The Fish House

| 1310 Winter Ave. | (502) 568-2993 www.facebook.com/foodanddine Spring 2013

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liquids coffee

BY DAVID LANGE | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

Coffee Spirits As summer approaches with its heat and humidity, everyone looks for ways to stay cool and still enjoy the increased entertainment and festivities that warmer temperatures bring. Cocktails have become more and more creative, and I thought I could introduce coffee to some summertime libations. Before undertaking this project, I knew that I would need a “cocktail expert” to guide me through the various levels of cocktails that could be introduced. I could think of no one more qualified than my good friend and fellow columnist, Tim Laird, the CEO (that’s the “Chief Entertainment Officer”) for Brown-Forman, who knows his way around the cocktail realm. We both have a true passion — Tim for creating imaginative cocktails and me for fantastic coffee. So on a warm and rainy Sunday afternoon, we met at his house in his “libation lab” and started creating caffeine concoctions. One thing that is very important when using coffee in a cocktail that is going to be added to, or shaken with, ice is to make sure that it is brewed correctly. My suggestion is to double brew, or in other words, when brewing, use double the amount of ground coffee than you normally would use. After brewing, allow it to cool before placing it in an airtight container and storing it in your refrigerator. Coffee can be stored this way for up to two weeks, for a constant supply of coffee base for your coffee cocktails. So what were some of the ideas that Tim and I came up with? We started with the basic coffee martini, which has many variations. But starting with this basic drink, you can add or subtract to meet your personal choice.

COFFEE MARTINI 4 1 1 1 /2

ounces cold coffee ounce Crème de Cocoa ounce Vodka ounce half & half

Place all the ingredients into a cocktail shaker with ice. Shake for 30 seconds. Rim a mar tini glass with cocoa powder and strain the cocktail into the glass. Garnish with shaved chocolate. On a warm summer evening, there can be few things more refreshing than coffee blended with cordials to make an after dinner cocktail like our Chocolate Raspberry Torte.

CHOCOLATE RASPBERRY TORTE 3-4 ounces cold coffee 1 ounce Crème de Cocoa liqueur 1 ounce Chambord black raspberry liqueur Place all the ingredients into a cocktail shaker with ice. Shake for 20 seconds. Rim a mar tini glass with sugar and strain the cocktail into the glass. Garnish with fresh raspberries if desired. 12 Spring 2013 www.foodanddine.com

For those super-muggy summer evenings, we decided we needed a cocktail that could refresh and cool you down with south of the border flavor. This cocktail promises to do just that.

GOOD MORNING GUADALAJARA 3 ounces cold coffee 11/2 ounces Herradura Reposado tequila 1 ounce Cointreau 1 /2 ounce simple syrup Place all ingredients into a cocktail shaker with crushed ice. Shake for 30 seconds. Pour into a tall glass. Garnish with an orange twist. Another variation on a coffee martini adds a little elegance to the finish product, as shown in the Tennessee-Tini.

TENNESSEE-TINI 3 ounces cold coffee 11/2 ounces Jack Daniels Tennessee Honey 1 ounce hazelnut liqueur Place all ingredients into a cocktail shaker with ice. Shake for 20 seconds. Rim a martini glass with honey and dip into crushed nuts. Strain the cocktail into the glass.

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CELEBRATE MARDI GRAS! As a tribute to New Orleans, one of the great cities for cocktails and also rich, dark coffee, we created our Caffe Nawâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;lins to meld liquids from this great city into a Mardi Gras celebration drink.

CAFFE NAWâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;LINS 3 ounces chicory-laced cold coffee 11/2 ounces Southern Comfort 1 /2 ounce Cointreau 2 drops of orange bitters Place all ingredients into a cocktail shaker with ice. Shake it for 30 seconds and strain into a tall highball glass filled with ice.

Everyone is aware of how hot coffee added to cocktails can produce a warming elixir that can eliminate the chill from the coldest winters. Now we see how iced coffee added to summer cocktails can refresh as well as cool down the hottest summer event. However, if you do not imbibe alcoholic cocktails, then be sure to try just straight iced coffee. Coffee that is double brewed and poured into a glass filled with ice can be the perfect answer to Louisvilleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sweltering summers. Whether you drink it black or with cream and sweetener, you will be amazed at how refreshing this drink can be. Whether it be served hot or cold, alone or in a cocktail, â&#x20AC;&#x153;coffee when well prepared is beyond question, one of the ambrosial luxuries of modern life.â&#x20AC;? F&D

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people and places profiles

BY KATY YOCOM | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

CHEF MATT WEBER Age: 46 Current Restaurant: Uptown Café Previous Restaurants: Café Metro Neighborhood (current): Crescent Hill Hometown: Louisville (high school: Trinity) Spouse: Susan Biasiolli Kids: Sons Griffin (16) and Gabe (12) Favorite Hobbies: Cycling, swimming Favorite Cookbook: The Joy of Cooking, by Irma Rombauer — “for techniques, more than recipes” Favorite Kitchen Gadget: A sharp knife

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QA &

Matt Weber will be the first to tell you he’s not part of Louisville’s chef fraternity. But he is part of a restaurant family of sorts, working since he was 18 in Nancy Shepherd’s Uptown Café and its upscale sibling, the now closed Café Metro. At the Uptown, he was an assistant pastry chef and prep cook, mentored by chefs Eric Sinnott, Dave Barnes and John Edgerton. Executive chef at Uptown Café since 1992, Weber has worked closely with kitchen partner and sous chef Laurie Banta for the past decade. A self-professed laidback guy, he sat down to talk with F&D one Monday morning in November.

What is your first food memory? “My mother was a single mother. I remember my sisters making spinach egg noodles with butter and parmesan and black pepper. We were little, and we had to eat. Mom was at work.”

Who has influenced your cooking the most? “My mother, my grandfather, my father. He pushed me. When he wanted to know how to fix something himself, he’d ask me. My mother was an at-home gourmet in the seventies and early eighties.” Why did you choose to cook this type of cuisine — new American bistro with a regional twist? “It’s eclectic. If you pick up my menu, you’ll see regional stuff, a lot of Italian, French, Asian influence. I can put anything I want on there because we’ve got such a wide variety.” What’s your favorite go-to ingredient? “Cumin and thyme.” Is there a guilty-secret ingredient in your

kitchen — something you’d rather not be spotted using? “Sometimes I use soup bases instead of fresh stock. There’s not always time to make fresh.”

What cooking skill required in your kitchen is the most difficult to master? “Good knife technique is probably the most difficult. I always tell people to go slow. I’d rather you go really slow than chop your fingertip off. ’Cause then you’re no good to me.” Dumbest thing you’ve ever done in a kitchen? (Laughs.) “I have chopped a couple of finger tips at different times. And I dropped a raw cheesecake into a case of lettuce.” If you had to work for one chef in the world, who would it be? “I don’t know if I could. I’ve been the boss for too long. But I would work with someone and learn some stuff. I like Jamie Oliver. I’d definitely like to cook with him. He could teach me a lot about nutrition.

(pictured below, from left) Smoked gouda and tomatillo queso with chips; grilled shrimp tacos with guacamole and sweet potato hay; grilled duck breast with Bourbon molasses sauce, fresh vegetable medley and mashed potatoes.

People ask me about nutrition, and I don’t know. I’m a chef.” What do you aspire to? “I kind of grew up on that corner there [at Café Metro and Uptown Café]. They’re kind of my family. I’m pretty comfortable here. I’d like to have my own place someday, but I’m not actively planning anything.” If you could cook a meal for anyone, who would it be? “My mother. I was a junior in high school when she passed away. It would have to be vegetarian.” What music was playing in the kitchen last night? “The Rolling Stones, ‘Dancing with Mr. D.’ I had a playlist of all the songs that started with D on my iPod.” What’s in your fridge at home? “A gallon of past-due milk. Some fresh vegetables from my CSA farmer: a quarter head of Napa cabbage, some sor t of delicious spinach with purple stems, a (See WEBER, page 18)

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people and places profiles

BY KATY YOCOM | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

CHEF JOHN PLYMALE Age: 49 Current Restaurant: Porcini Previous Restaurants: The Terrace, Afro-German Tearoom, various Grisanti properties Neighborhood (current): Oldham County Hometown: Louisville (high school: Atherton) Spouse: Kim Plymale Kids: Daughters Leah (19) and Kara (14) Favorite Hobbies: Tournament fishing, gardening Favorite Cookbook: Camille Glenn’s Heritage of Southern Cooking and other “old-school, indigenous Kentucky cookbooks” Favorite Kitchen Gadget: His mind — “being organized, knowing staff members’ strengths …”

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QA &

Chef John Plymale has been with Porcini since before its 1992 opening. Twenty-plus years later, the restaurant seems like an extension of the chef himself. A thoughtful and affable guy, Plymale sat down for a conversation before the ritual of a nightly staff meal, which he cited as one factor in the staff’s dedication and longevity. “We can take fifteen minutes out of our crazy day,” Plymale says, “and sit down together and eat and talk and have that bond.”

What is your first food memory? “Mom and Grandma. I remember my Grandma making a white chiffon cake with a white icing and coconut and a fantastic lemon curd she’d put between the layers. I can almost taste that cake and her lemon meringue pie. Holidays, ever ybody’d be watching ballgames, but I’d kind of be watching the cooking.” Who has influenced your cooking the most? “My grandmother, Elizabeth Cull, and my mother, Jeanne Gibson, were my biggest starting influences.”

How about professionally? “Chef Dominic Serratore at Casa Grisante. Deedee Stokes at Afro-German Tearoom — she was an amazing cook. That restaurant was a 100 percent scratch operation, and I learned a lot about technique, about organization in the kitchen. Master pastry chef Bernd Gronert [at Johnson & Wales University’s culinar y school in Providence, R.I.].” What’s your favorite go-to ingredient? “Garlic. And olive oil.” Is there a guilty-secret ingredient in your

kitchen — something you’d rather not be spotted using? “We stay pretty true to our roots. It’s very seldom we’ll use frozen or processed items. We’re, I’d say, a 96 to 98 percent scratch operation here. You can see by all this coming in.” (He gestures to indicate the steady stream of deliveries.)

What’s your greatest strength in the kitchen? “My ability to stay even-keeled under pressure. I almost thrive on it. It’s almost an adrenaline rush. It’s why I still enjoy being on the line every night.” What’s your downfall? “Spending too much time on the day-today operations and maybe not enough on the research and development part of it.” Besides Porcini, what is your favorite restaurant in Louisville? “Corbett’s. Dean is a very good friend. And in Shelbyville, Science Hill Inn. We’ll go there for Sunday brunch.” Who are your favorite chefs? “My good friends: chefs Dean Corbett, Dave Moeller, Michael Cunha, Mac McBride, Josh Moore, Alex Perez.”

(pictured below, from left) Crispy pork belly with braised greens and shallot polenta; seared scallops with tomato concasse, toasted pignola and a Romani sauce; grilled jumbo shrimp in a lemon garlic sauce with a spring vegetable risotto. Other than your own restaurant, what’s the first place you’d take an out-oftowner? “Science Hill Inn. It’s a good representation of the food of Kentucky.” What cooking skill required in your kitchen is the most difficult to master? “Having been here 22 years, I don’t know that there’s a technique out there that we don’t employ in our everyday cooking.” Dumbest thing you’ve ever done in a kitchen? “I was leaving in a hurry for a U of L football game and I’d left some bacon in the oven. I went back to take it out and the oven doors hit the tray, it flew up in the air and bacon came down all over my sweater. The hot grease soaked through the sweater and burned my forearm, and when I pulled the sweater off it popped the blister. It was pretty bad.” The last time you had a real nightmare of a night … “It was our opening week of Porcini and we were supposed to be doing a soft open with about 75 guests the staff had (See PLYMALE, page 19)

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QA WEBER

(continued from page 15)

butternut squash, fresh garlic, carrots. Some Thanksgiving leftovers … chorizo cornbread dressing with pecans and cheddar and jalapenos. I made that.” Is there anything in that home fridge you’d rather not admit to having? “The expired milk.”

What was the last book you read? “The third book in The Hunger Games trilogy: Mockingjay.”

What food is your guilty pleasure? “I have a horrible sweet tooth. I’ll eat anything from chocolate soufflé to a Little Debbie Nutty Bar.” Your favorite quick meal to prepare at home? “Tacos, with beans and really good fresh corn tortillas.” Which seasonings don’t you respect? “I think there’s a place for all seasonings. But I don’t like the pre-made stuff, in general.” Best cooking tip for a novice? “Salt your pasta water. It definitely brings the flavor of the pasta out. And don’t be afraid to try a new recipe, and don’t be discouraged if it doesn’t come out pretty as a picture. Try it again — or order pizza.” What do you think is the next worthwhile food/dining trend? “In my world, we’ll come up with an idea and we’ll see it in a trade magazine a month later. Recently, Laurie came up with chorizo corn dogs, and then she saw essentially the same thing on the Internet. It was uncanny how close it was.” Besides the Uptown, what is your favorite restaurant in Louisville? “I really like Nam Nam.” Who are your favorite chefs? “I think Dave [Truong] at Nam Nam is really good. Jim Gerhardt. Ed Lee. I’m not into the chef fraternity. I like Jamie Oliver. His show The Naked Chef really had a laidback approach, which is a lot of the way I am in life and in cooking. I don’t get uptight about cooking at all, and I have no pretensions. Good food is good food.” Iron Chef Louisville: Who do you not want to battle? (Laughs.) “I’m afraid of all of ’em.” 18 Spring 2013 www.foodanddine.com

Other than the Uptown, what’s the first place you’d take an out-of-towner? “610 Magnolia.”

Give us one reason Louisville should be considered a culinary destination. “Because there’s so many great chefs and restaurants here. I mean, the competition’s fierce. It’s unbelievable. You’ve got mainstays like the Uptown, and then there’s The Blind Pig, Harvest, Decca, all the new places opening up. There’s three restaurant rows in Louisville! And then offshoots of that. I’ve seen a lot of places come and go, but it seems like the number of restaurants is increasing. And the number of good restaurants is increasing. You have to be on your game all the time. You can’t really slip.” How do you feel about the pressure? “I’d like to have more customers. We’re diligent about changing our menu at least twice a year to keep it fresh. Changing the drinks menu frequently. Tr ying to stay proactive.” What are you doing in the kitchen now that you’re excited about? “We’re doing a lot more sandwiches, and I’m pretty excited about them. We’ve got a grilled goat cheese sandwich, toasted open-faced with blackberr y jam and served with mixed baby greens, drizzled with a balsamic reduction. A hot ham and American cheese sandwich with shredded iceberg lettuce, a fried egg and Sriracha aioli. A Cobb salad sandwich with turkey, bacon, avocado, and bleu cheese dressing. Sandwiches always make me happy. My last meal would be a sandwich.” Your last food-related “wow moment” was … ? “My fried turkey. I made it for Thanksgiving. I took my Obama sign’s metal frame and turned the prongs into hooks and squished the long part into a handle, and took my two turkeys and trussed their legs with coathangers and slipped the hooks under the wire. You dunk it two or three times in oil at 375, and they’re done in 52 minutes. What’s your last meal on earth, if you had the chance to choose? “A BLT, with a really ripe, delicious August tomato from the garden, Hellmann’s mayonnaise, black pepper, Bibb lettuce and a couple of Corona Lights.” F&D

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PLYMALE

(continued from page 17)

invited. But all these people star ted showing up, and they [the host staff] let them in. We ended up serving over 200 people. I had a couple cooks walk out on me because they couldn’t handle the pressure. It was pretty wild.” If you had to work for one chef in the world, who would it be? “Alice Waters. Her approach to food is a lot like mine. I’d like to think we’d have a good relationship.”

What do you aspire to? “I love the community I work in, the facility I work in. I have a great owner, great staff. [But] I aspire to dedicate more time to my wife. There’s a lot of birthdays, a lot of anniversaries I haven’t been able to be there for.” If you could cook a meal for anyone, who would it be? “My family and friends. Twice a year a lot of chefs locally take a vacation together. We cook for each other. It’s not that we try to outdo each other ; we just want to do something nice for each other.” What music was playing in the kitchen last night? “Jimmy Buffet.”

Which are underrated? “Saffron.”

Best cooking tip for a novice? “Make sure to have all your mise-en-place in place before you start something you’re not familiar with.”

What do you think is the next worthwhile food/dining trend? “We’re in the midst of it right now. The local artisanal product. The artisanal cheese, the farmers’ market, your own garden or orchard. The public has become so well educated with the Food Network and cooking shows. They’ve brought a lot of people back into the kitchen. In the seventies, eighties, early nineties, it was all about convenience. I’d like to see everyone sit down for the family meal every night and talk over the day over good food.” Give us one reason Louisville should be considered a culinary destination. “You have to look at the sheer volume of restaurants. Some people would probably say we’re almost a saturated market. The degree of good quality establishments out there has increased twofold over the last

10 years. There’s a lot of young talent out there that are mixing up our culinary scene. Even some of the food trucks.”

Your last food-related “wow moment” was … ? “My sous chef spent a lot of time with a braised pork belly that’s new to the menu. Sautéed organic greens; a polenta cake with caramelized shallots, fontina and parmigiano; pork belly; and a blood orange agrodolce.” Iron Chef Louisville: Who do you not want to battle? “I don’t think professionally there’s anybody I wouldn’t want to go up against. Personally, I wouldn’t want to go against an old employee or good friend because one of us would lose, and hopefully it would be them. It’s almost like a fraternity here; you’d never want to have anybody humiliated because they lost to you. [But] I’m never afraid of competition. I think it drives the world.” What’s your last meal on earth, if you had the chance to choose? “A meal my mother and grandmother prepared for me. It wouldn’t even matter what it was; it’s just the company.” F&D

What was the last book you read? “Cover to cover? Kitchen Confidential. I also read Jesse Stuart’s The Beatinest Boy. My grandmother gave me that book.” What’s in your fridge at home? “Usually some type of pasta left over from our evening service here at the restaurant. Colonel Newsom’s country ham. Neuske’s bacon. Some pomegranate. A lot of fixings for my daughter’s lunchbox.” Is there anything in that home fridge you’d rather not admit to having? “There’s probably something moldy back in the corner.” What food is your guilty pleasure? “Anything anyone else cooks for me instead of the other way around.” Your favorite quick meal to prepare at home? “Anything grilled. Pork or a nice steak.” Which seasonings don’t you respect? “I try to use fresh herbs over dry herbs any chance I get.” www.facebook.com/foodanddine Spring 2013 19

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people and places profiles

BY CARLA CARLTON | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

St. Charles exchange 113 S. Seventh St. Louisville, KY 5 0 2 . 6 1 8 .1 9 1 7

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St. Charles Exchange once again encourages guests to linger in the Victorian-era building

The Victorian-era building has a kind of tucked-away feeling, located as it is on Seventh Street just south of Main and across from 21C. With high ceilings, exposed-brick walls and floors of polished reclaimed barn wood, St. Charles Exchange could be loud and impersonal, but its hard edges are softened by the lush, bourbonhued drapes on the floor-to-ceiling windows and a black leather banquette that runs the length of the main dining area. Sofas and chairs define a cozy lounge area inside the front door. The entire right side of the room is dominated by an ornate black bar with nearly two dozen stools, where bartenders wearing flamboyant shirts and suspenders take their time crafting cocktails and chatting with their customers, encouraging them to linger. Sitting here, it’s easy to imagine you’re in the lobby bar of the St. Charles Hotel, which occupied the building from 1866 to 1888. “That’s the feel we were going for,” said owner Amy Hoffmann Frey. “There is a lot of history here.” The colorful history of the building at 113 S. Seventh St. includes its use in 1873 as a hideout for a gang of bank robbers led by master forger Walter Sheridan, according to the book “Professional Thieves and the Detective” by Allan Pinkerton.

hrough their décor and menu offerings, many restaurants in Louisville transport you to another place, but St. Charles Exchange transports you to another time. Open just since Derby 2012, it already feels like it’s been welcoming visitors since the turn of the century — the 20th century.

(left) St. Charles Exchange’s braised lamb shank with Weisenberger grits, Swiss chard and fig in an espresso sauce.

www.facebook.com/foodanddine Spring 2013 21

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(above) Lamb burger on an English muffin with curried onions and lamb fat fries. (pictured) Scottish salmon with parsnip mash, Swiss chard and fried carrot.

While one group of thieves was digging at night toward the vault of the Falls City Tobacco Bank, Pinkerton writes, the others “were posted in a front room over the St. Charles restaurant immediately opposite” keeping watch. “In this manner the thieves had an abundance of time and leisure, and finally effected an entrance to the vault … when they carried away almost everything of value the vault contained,” he concludes. After the hotel closed, the building housed the Bernheim Bros. Bourbon Distillery and Warehouse. A wall made from barrel staves in the restaurant’s private dining room gives a nod to that chapter of its story. “The name St. Charles came from the building, of course,” Amy Frey said. “‘Exchange’ is what they used to call hotel lobby bars in the early 1900s. They were a place for people to exchange social graces and make business exchanges. But Louisville was also a big city of exchange because it was a river town. It all tied in.” She and her husband, Rob Frey, and investor David McGuire opened St. Charles Exchange with family and friends of the Freys from Philadelphia who operate the Franklin Mortgage & Investment Co., a speakeasy-type bar, and Lemon Hill, a restaurant and bar in which they partnered with noted Chef Mitch Prensky of Philadelphia’s Supper restaurant. Prensky created St. Charles Exchange’s initial menu, which promised innovative variations of classic items from the turn of the century — the Elvis on Horseback appetizer,

Chef Patrick McCandless

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for instance, a twist on Devils on Horseback that features banana vinaigrette with bacon-wrapped, peanut butter-stuffed dates. Several months in, chef de cuisine Patrick McCandless, an Indiana native who studied culinary arts at Sullivan University, became head chef, and the menu has evolved to include more regional cuisine under his direction — see the Kentucky Hot Brown Monte Cristo and Pork Belly Reuben. “I wanted to focus more on the Southern-style cuisine and the great products Kentucky has to offer,” he said. “I have also been working closely with local farmers to get the freshest products that are in season.” Some of the restaurant’s most popular items are its daily selection of deviled eggs; the root beer chicken wings; the scallops with country ham; and the St. Chuck Burger, an 8-ounce lamb patty on an English muffin. McCandless has added more vegetarian options to the menu and plans to incorporate some low-country influences in the future as well. Even more than its food, St. Charles Exchange quickly became known for its retro-inspired cocktails, complicated concoctions involving exotic ingredients like absinthe, Benedictine and Pimm’s. Many incorporate the bar’s house-made syrups — ginger, grapefruit, cinnamon and such — and all are served over the proper kind of ice, whether crushed or formed into a rock that will melt slowly, so as not to water things down. The cocktail program is overseen by bar manager Colin Shearn, a well-known bar tender whose drinks have been featured in national publications. As general manager of The Franklin in Philadelphia, he originally served in a consulting role at St. Charles Exchange, but he fell in love with the restaurant and the city and moved his family here. He brought with him The Franklin’s “punch bowl” concept — large-format servings of whatever

Towering draped windows, old wood, crafted leather and well-tailored fabrics greet you in this old-world space. (right) A classic to match the space — The Old-Fashioned. (top) The Billet-Doux — rum, cassis, cocchi Americano and lime juice.

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(above) Pork belly “Reuben” with braised cabbage, pickle relish, rye bread pudding and Gruyere fondue. (right) A Louisville classic, the mint julep. (middle, right) Deviled eggs — stir fry, olive, truffle, loaded potato and pickled pepper. (far right) “Elvis on Horseback” — peanut butter stuffed dates, wrapped in bacon. (top right) Daily cheese board.

24 Spring 2013

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punch recipes are on the current menu, meant to be shared by six to 10 people. “It’s one of my favorite things to see at the bar — a communal experience bringing people together,” he said. “It’s almost impossible to have a bad time drinking a bowl of punch.” While St. Charles Exchange is located just off Louisville’s historic “Whiskey Row,” where a Bourbon renaissance is taking place, one thing you won’t find there is a list of 50-plus Bourbon brands.The Exchange has a respectable Bourbon list and features the spirit in several cocktails, but quantity isn’t Shearn’s goal. “I think curation is one of the most important, and often overlooked, aspects of a bar program,” he said. “Sure, I could bring in 100 more Bourbons. But why? The back bar is only so big, I can only expect my staff to know so many products, I don’t want to carry an extra $5,000 in inventory. I also just edited the cocktail list. I want it to cover a certain amount of terrain, spirit and flavor wise; I want it to be fun and exciting. What I don’t want is for people to be intimidated by two pages of esoteric ingredients and flavors they’re not familiar with. That’s not fun for anyone.” What is fun is being behind a bar that so defines a space — both literally and figuratively. The vintage feel that St. Charles Exchange seems to have effortlessly achieved in just months is due in no small part to that “grand old hotel bar” vibe, Shearn said. It hasn’t happened yet, Frey said, but “I wouldn’t be surprised to have someone come in here and ask, ‘Where do we check in?’ You never know.” F&D

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people and places profiles

BY CARLA CARLTON | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

MoolMex Manny & Merle, Tony Palombino’s latest brainstorm, adds country funk to Whiskey Row

Tony Palombino is at it again. The dining-concept king who brought fish tacos and potatotopped pizza to Louisville is now serving up “ModMex” cuisine washed down with Bourbon and tequila and followed by a chaser of live music in a honkytonk on West Main Street’s Whiskey Row.

Manny & Merle proprietor Tony Palombino

26 Spring 2013 www.foodanddine.com

The new place, Manny & Merle, which opened in late November in the building at Second and Main that once housed Zena’s Café, features a short list of tacos and sandwiches, house-made salsa, a trio of house-made guacamoles and a couple of salads and desser ts, complemented by an extensive list of Bourbons and tequilas. The one-sheet menu makes ordering quick and easy, a bonus if you’re on your way to a concert or game at the KFC Yum! Center across the street. “This is a destination location,” Palombino said. “The bar is the main focus, and we back that up with creative food and round it out with live music four or five nights a week.” Palombino, the brains behind Tony BoomBozz and AP Crafters, said he’d been eyeing this location for almost a year, drawn by its proximity to the arena, the city’s intention to develop Whiskey Row and “just being downtown in general. It’s an area that’s just hitting its stride.”

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Crispy PBR beerbattered fish taco with shaved cabbage, salsa fresca and baja crema.

Manny & Merle 122 W. Main St. Louisville, KY 502.290.8888

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He drew inspiration for the dining concept from honkytonks in Texas and California in the 1940s, ’50s and ’60s. “The kitchens were run by Mexican immigrants who served up Old World Mexican — what we now call Modern Mexican, basically a modern take on Mexican street food,” he said. “That’s where the ‘Manny’ comes in.” “Merle,” of course, is Merle Haggard, whose gritty, blue-collar music sets the tone for the honkytonk atmosphere Palombino is going for at Manny & Merle. The shotgun-style space has been warmed with brick walls up front and wood-plank walls in the back. A black-leather banquette runs down the right side of the restaurant; bar-height tables and tall black stools provide more seating. Large ceiling fans connected by belts that run the length of the ceiling give a nice “old-timey” feel. Servers wear cowboy-style shirts with piping and snaps. The large bar was built in 1920. Sitting atop it are a miniature Route 66 gas pump, a bass fiddle covered in license plates and a small Woodford Reserve barrel. A nearby chalkboard adver tises the $3 Bourbon and tequila shots of the day. “When I saw the location, here on Whiskey Row, I felt compelled to incorporate the histor y of Bourbon” in the concept, Palombino said. The Bourbon list currently stands at 54, but he is shooting for at least 60 and a spot on the Urban Bourbon Trail. That would seem entirely appropriate, considering that a large portion of the side of the building is covered by a poster celebrating Bourbon innovator and Brown-Forman founder George Garvin Brown, credited with being the first to sell Bourbon in bottles.

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Manny & Merle also carries 32 kinds of tequila, in keeping with the menu. “People are always amazed by the number of tequilas we have,” said general manager Emily Tolle. Creative cocktails include the popular Sarsparilla (Buffalo Trace Bourbon with cinnamon schnapps and root beer), the Sangritatini (a martini featuring El Jimador tequila and house-made sangrita) and the Blue-Eyed Merle, which combines Bourbon and tequila, along with sour mix, triple sec and blue curacao. The place has been busy since it opened, she said, particularly on the day of the UofL-UK game, when former Cards coach Denny Crum stopped by. But things have gone smoothly, which she credited to the overall vision and direction of Palombino, with whom she first worked at AP Crafters, his gastropub in Westport Village. His philosophy, she said, is “this is what we are; this is who we are; and we will always be this,” she said. “That makes it easy for the staff to execute things well.” Palombino takes a very hands-on role in developing each of his concepts, from the décor to the food to the beverage program. While he doesn’t have professional culinary training, he does have a background in food, having grown up in the restaurant industry. His father, mother and sister moved to the States from Naples, Italy, and ran Italian restaurants in Lexington and Orlando before moving in 1975 to Louisville, where they operated several other eateries. In 1997, Palombino opened his first concept in Louisville , Thatsa Wrapp. After selling it, he opened BoomBozz Pizza, home of that chicken-and-potatotopped pizza, the Pollotate. N o w i n i t s 15 t h y e a r, BoomBozz has grown from that one small carryout and delivery store to multiple sitdown locations featuring craft beer as well as gourmet pizza. About the same time, he also developed Baja Grill — later sold and renamed Bazo’s — which brought fish tacos from the West Coast to Louisville. “Fish tacos have always been dear to me,” he said. “I love fish tacos. I remem ber when I first put

Along with several views of Manny & Merle’s interior — including the image of namesake Merle Haggard (top right) — are some of their drink and menu items. Food — (above) Roasted wild mushroom taco with corn salsa, Cotija cheese and pickled red onion. (left) Seared pork belly torta with poached egg, guacamole and red onion. (far left) Flank steak taco with guacamole, red onion, cilantro and lime. Drinks — (above, right) The Mannyrita — Lunazul Blanco tequila, triple sec and fresh squeezed lime juice. (left) Tequila shot with a homemade sangrita back. (far left) A shot in the boot — choice of Bourbon with a PBR draft back.

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(clockwise from above) Chopped salad with black beans, avocado and a cilantrohoney vinaigrette; trio of guacamole â&#x20AC;&#x201D; traditional, grilled pineapple and roasted corn; chips and chorizo queso; Bourbon flan with a candied pistachio crumble; sopapilla â&#x20AC;&#x201D; flash fried puffs with cinnamon sugar and a tequilapineapple sauce.

30 Spring 2013

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them on a menu and how ‘weird’ that was for some people.” But not for anyone who had ever lived near the Baja Peninsula. “I think everyone who was born and raised in San Diego came to Baja in those first two weeks; they were like, ‘Oh my god, fish tacos.’ ” It was while traveling the Baja coast in the early 2000s researching that concept that he first discovered the Mexican street food he’s now featuring at Manny & Merle. The beloved fish taco is on the menu, the cod coated in a batter made with Pabst Blue Ribbon. Other favorites so far, Tolle said, are the Machaca taco, made with braised beef brisket, caramelized onions and peppers, cilantro and queso fresco, and the chorizo and rock shrimp torta (sandwich). The menu has already been tweaked a bit, Tolle said, to add two desserts (a Bourbon flan and sopapillas) and a couple more sandwiches, including one made with pork belly. “But overall, we’ve gotten really good feedback on the food,” she said. “Louisville is a great incubator” for new dining ideas, Palombino said. Louisvillians seem more open to trying new things, or to trying a local version of something they’ve sampled elsewhere. “We aren’t inventing things; we are bringing things that fill a niche. Louisville has embraced everything we’ve done.” F&D

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about food from the earth

BY GREG GAPSIS | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

from the Clearwater Seafood EARTH

Outpost of the Atlantic Maritimes thrives in Louisville

In a non-descript business park in South Louisville, among loading docks and plain-faced offices, a Nova Scotia company is busy handling a treasure among ocean seafood — live, hardshelled lobster harvested from the cold Atlantic waters of Canada’s maritime provinces. Clearwater Seafood set up operations here when UPS established its air freight operations in 1999. The company built huge, custom holding tanks that replicate ocean conditions and, unobserved and unknown to most passing motorists, ship more than half a million pounds each year of the tasty crustaceans across North America. When the doors swing open to unload the weekly tractor trailer delivering ten to twenty thousand pounds, the distinct salty smell of a northern harbor wharf comes rolling out. If you closed your eyes, you could picture seaweedcovered pilings at low tide and gulls circling overhead to observe the action. A forklift starts to unload large plastic crates marked with abbreviations of the port of origin and a number showing the minimum weight of each treasured crustacean inside — 11/2, 3, 6, 9. Clearwater Operations Manager Paul Valdez pulls open the clam shell top of a crate marked “9” and inside are some of the darkest, biggest lobsters you have ever seen, with claws larger than an outspread hand. “Yeah, the claws are as large as a steak,” Valdez says as he hoists the strange-looking creature out. “This is about a 13-pounder.” Its spread-eagle length stretches the length of his torso from armpits to waist. “It takes about seven years for them to grow to a pound and then they continue growing about a pound a year,” Valdez said. “After a while their bodies don’t get any larger but their claws keep getting bigger.” By Valdez’s estimate, this grand lobster has lived nearly 20 years, crawling the ocean bottoms off Canada’s Maritime Provinces — Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, and Prince Edward Island. And it seems unperturbed when returned to the bin with its mates. 32 Spring 2013 www.foodanddine.com

Today, that lobster will fetch $14 or more per pound at retail, as much as a fine cut of beef. At high-end restaurants it will be a seafood lover’s delight, with white, sweetish meat that is only one percent fat before sauces, baked or broiled toppings or melted butter and lemon are added.

From ignorance to bliss What today is considered a delicacy of fine dining was to early European colonists only fit as food for poor people and prisoners or use as a farm fertilizer. Lobster was held in general disrepute because of the mistaken belief that it was a bottomfeeding scavenger. So low was the opinion of its fitness as a proper food, that laws were passed to limit how many times a week it could be served to prisoners, lest they be subjected to cruel and unusual punishment. Tastes changed over time and by the mid-1800s the poor man’s dish had become a pleasure of the rich and, thanks to railroads and ice, was available in most urban centers. Canning expanded the demand, and distribution reached around the world at a time when specimens below four pounds were considered not wor th bothering with. As a luxury food, lobster was not rationed during the war and remained in demand as an important source of protein. While demand slacked after WWII, it rebounded and ultimately fisheries were put under pressure and over-harvesting led to falling production before more stringent management practices targeting a sustainable yield were adopted. Clearwater got its start in the turbulent economy of the mid1970s when OPEC price increases and inflation pressured many small businesses. Amid distress, Clearwater found opportunity and a mantra: “Premium, Wild, Sustainable.” “With a pick-up truck and an optimistic vision, brothers-in-law Colin MacDonald and John Risley saw an opportunity and focused on becoming lobster distributors after they opened a small retail shop in Bedford [Novia Scotia],” said Catherine Boyd, Clearwater’s

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Clearwater Operations Manager, Paul Valdez, wrangles lobsters.

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“The rectangular tower s are director of sustainability and public relations. “They started to integrate all aspects of the Clearwater’s innovation, the ‘Dr yland business ‘from trap to table,’ acquiring fishing Pound,’ ” Valdez said. “They are stacked quotas, vessels and processing and distribu- storage trays, like large par ts bins you’d tion facilities.They wanted to ensure sustain- see at Lowe’s, designed to keep indi ability and the highest quality, and constant vidual lobsters separated and mimic the innovation to achieve these goals has been space and structure of an underwater rocky crevice.” a hallmark of Clearwater’s history.” “We monitor the water pouring As smart entrepreneurs, Risley and MacDonald (who is still chairman of the through them for temperature, oxygen company) succeeded at their goal of content, pH and salinity, all of it replicating ver tical integration and are the largest winter conditions on the bottom of the fisheries quota holder in Canada. They also Atlantic,” Valdez continued. “By keeping implemented modern technologies like them at 38 degrees from harvest to bottom mapping and GPS technology to delivery, they’re slowed down and stay reduce fuel costs and are engaged in a 10-year joint research project with the Canadian Depar tment of One of the two massive holding tanks at Clearwater. Fisheries and Oceans on sustainability issues. As a testament to its focus is the fact that Clearwater has become the first har vester and dis tri butor in the world to qualify for Marine Stewardship Council (MSC) certification — considered the gold standard for fisheries sus tain ability — on all of its core species: sea scallops, lobster, shrimp, Arctic surf clam and Canadian snow crab.

orders,” Valdez said. “But restaurant sales just took off and now account for seventyfive percent of our business. We also supply distributors and retail outlets and do a surprising walk-in retail business.” And that is perhaps the most sur prising news of all — that so many locals have discovered the unprepossessing, all-but-invisible source of super-fresh, attractively-priced lobsters here in the middle of the country. Louisville’s air cargo hub makes it a crossroads of supremely fresh and sometimes exotic foodstuffs, and that’s why Clearwater built its transshipment facility here. It’s nice to know that

Staying alive One-half of the facility Paul Valdez manages consists of two huge tanks, roughly 30' x 60' each holding about 70,000 gallons, across which ropes stretch holding large, trunk-like bins full of the weight-graded crustaceans. Near the loading dock there is a nearly twenty-foot-tall row of fourfoot-square rectangular towers that have a shower of water falling onto them. In a corner there is a large tank, like a mash tun at a distillery, where 4,500 gallons of salt water can be mixed at a time for this oneof-a-kind marine facility. The constant sound of running water, aeration bubbling out of the tanks, and the hum of biofilters, skimmers, and chilling equipment fills the air. Clearwater Seafood

healthy and fresh, maintaining the best meat condition.” The other side of the space is dedicated to packing and shipping, where small mountains of foam containers and cartons get marshaled into a single packing line before being shipped to fine restaurants and individuals all over the States. “When we set this up in 1999, we thought it would be just to service Internet

Clearwater will let you search it out and buy its treasures at near wholesale prices ($9.99/lb. for select, $6.99 for culls) — if you can find it. F&D TIP: Now that you know where to score top-notch lobster, want to know how to cook it? Check out our Easy Entertaining column (see page 38) for great lobster recipes and cooking tips.

| 3904 Produce Rd., #103 | (502) 966-3100 | www.clearwater.ca www.facebook.com/foodanddine Spring 2013 35

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liquids hip hops

Saddle up and Ride!

BY ROGER A. BAYLOR

the tale of the trub

Prepare for Derby with the class of a thoroughbred. Open 7 Days a Week in

Our prognosticator picks six craft beer trends for 2013

Louisville’s Historic Highlands. Our knowledgeable staff will guide you through our extensive wine selection and more than 40 bourbon

s 2012 came to a close, the Brewers Association, America’s non-profit trade association for small and independent craft brewers, abruptly seized the rhetorical initiative by challenging multi national brewing firms to be truthful about who brews which beers, and where.

and whiskey distilleries or explore online at: www.KyBourbon.net

“When someone is drinking a Blue Moon Belgian Wheat Beer, they often believe that it’s from a craft brewer, since there is no clear indication that it’s made by SABMiller. The same goes for Shock Top, a brand that is 100 percent owned by Anheuser-Bush InBev. The large, multinational brewers appear to be deliberately attempting to blur the lines between their crafty, craft-like beers and true craft beers from today’s small and independent brewers.” Brewers Association

Localism, meet craft beer

1529 Bardstown Road www.OldTownWine.com 502.451.8591

You two have very much in common, so get acquainted. In 2013, I believe basic consumer information about craft beer’s origins increasingly will be viewed as essential in calculating the full value of one’s beverage purchase, in the same way that a tomato in the farmer’s market ideally should spring from the seller’s dirt, and not a greenhouse in a neighboring state. Can there ever be too much information? I don’t think so. Let’s look at five other matters of potential relevance during the coming year of beer.

Hemispheric hops Motueka, Southern Cross, Galaxy, Pacific Gem and Nelson Sauvin. They’re not folk bands formed in the wake of Mumford & Sons’ global success.

36 Spring 2013 www.foodanddine.com

Rather, they’re red hot hops from Australia and New Zealand, and owing to scarcity, they’re making “Southern Hemisphere” watchwords for exclusivity. Flavors and aromas are often tropical, with passion fruit, gooseberry, peach, lemon and lime popping up in savory descriptions. In 2013, proven brands include Schlafly Tasmanian IPA, Anchorage Brewing Galaxy White and Sierra Nevada Southern Hemisphere Harvest Ale. There’ll be others.

Blurring the lines Last summer I visited New Day Meadery’s tap room, situated on Fountain Square in a revitalizing Indianapolis neighborhood just southeast of the city center that also is home to Fountain Square Brewing Company.

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Mead is a beverage fermented from honey, and it predates beer in humanity’s annals. The use of fruit, herbs and spices to flavor mead is a longstanding custom, but New Day’s Brett Canaday likes to take the process a step further by consulting the ale playbook for ideas. Hence, Snap Dragon: Mead infused with apricots, spiced with orange peel and coriander, and hopped with Hallertauer. If the alcohol base were fermented from grain and not honey, you’d know this as Belgianstyle Witbier. The flavor is very similar. Snap Dragon points to increasing fermentable cross-pollination. Most states have differing regulatory regimes for beer and wine production, with both mead and cider (fermented fruit juice, usually apple) being governed as wine. Whereas lighter ale of mild character might be hopped with Nelson Sauvin and resemble Sauvignon Blanc, mead can be spiced to approximate Pale Ale with a twist.

Gnagy, a chosen Louisville chef is asked to incor porate a “signature flavor” into the collaborative beer, suggest a type of beer designed to pair well with cuisine at the chef ’s restaurant, aim toward creating a beer that he or she would like to drink with food, or combine all three of these criteria into one tasty mug. To date, the results have been impeccably eclectic: • Bay and Pepper Your Bretts, with Chef Josh Lehman (Holy Grale), a Belgianstyle “wild” Saison spiced with bay leaves and black peppercorns. • Galangal Action, with Chef Levon Wallace (Proof on Main), Thai-inspired Kölsch with galangal root, kaffir lime leaves and watermelon. • BierePoix, with Chef Andy Myers (Anchorage Café), combining classic French mirepoix (onion, carrot and celery aromatics) with thyme, coriander, orange peel and sorghum in a Bière de Garde.

Pucker up

Let’s get small

In beer, sourness once was a cue to aim for the spittoon, but nowadays intentionally soured ales surpass all previous norms in terms of acceptance. American craft brewers are emulating and modifying Belgian-style sours, from the vinegar y sourness of a barrel-aged Rodenbach to the funky wildness of traditional Lambic, and conjuring their own variants. Regionally, Upland Brewing Company (Bloomington, Indiana) has honed its sour program to an award-winning edge, and just a bit further north, Michigan’s Jolly Pumpkin brews nothing but sour ales in a variety of interpretations. If you’re a tart tout, do your due diligence, and buy bottles whenever they’re available because demand outstrips supply.

Depending on whom you ask, it’s nano brewing, picobrewing or even “bucket” brewing, the latter referring to plastic vessels sometimes used by homebrewers. These terms of wee intent describe small-scale and fully legal commercial brewing, with batch sizes of three barrels or less. With nanobrewing, we’ve traveled full circle in beer, back to using compact workplaces to brew beer, drink beer, and (maybe) sell what’s left. Two nanobreweries are operating in Southern Indiana (Basket Case in Jasper, and Hawcreek in Hope), and more are planned. In Louisville, my old friend Rick Stidham and a few of his brewing buddies are plotting a course for a nano to be called Muse Brewing, scheduled to open in 2013. In an e-mail, Rick reveals the conceptual plan: “We'll be brewing our favorites, but we'll also be constantly experimenting. Recent test batches were a Bière de Garde brewed with local butternut squash, and a Saison with hibiscus and chamomile. We also love the funky and the sour, and we'll be gleefully inflicting as much of it on Louisville as we possibly can.” Craft beer and localism: As collaborations go, it’s the main trend to watch as 2013 unfolds. F&D

Expanding collaborations Each year, numerous craft brewers work with, not against, each other to formulate collaboration beer s. They creatively combine ideas, ingredients and methods and share skill, wisdom and experience. Recently, the ar t of the collaboration gradually has star ted reaching beyond the brew kettle into the kitchen and beyond, as with Louisville’s quirky Against the Grain Brewer y and its AtG/Chef Collaboration series. Wor king with head brewer Jerr y

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easy entertaining lobster

BY TIM AND LORI LAIRD | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

A Lobster

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Feast

As anyone who has seen Woody Allen’s “Annie Hall” knows, cooking whole live lobsters can be intimidating. After all — they’re alive! But we’ve taken the fear out of the process by providing easy steps to properly cook lobsters, for the reward is well worth the effort.

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ot only is lobster delicious eaten whole, its rich meat is luxurious in a variety of dishes including appetizers, soups, entrées and sides as well. We’ve included several of our favorite lobster recipes to enjoy as a full lobster-feast meal or as an accompaniment to other dishes. For a wine pairing, we suggest a chardonnay to compliment the flavor and not over power the lobster. Sonoma-Cutrer Sonoma Coast Chardonnay fits that bill perfectly. For dessert, do as they do in the nor theast: Enjoy fresh blackberries with a dollop of whipped cream — the perfect ending to a decadent lobster-filled dinner. Having the ability to buy top-quality lobster at a very good price is one amazing benefit of living in Louisville. Clearwater Seafood is truly a hidden gem in our city. Read more about them in our “From the Earth” feature by Greg Gapsis (page 32) to learn how Louisville became the major trans-shipment point for East Coast lobsters.

Lobster Primer Lobster Lingo: Culls: Chickens: Quarters: Selects: Jumbos:

lobsters missing a claw about 1 pound about 11/4 pounds 11/2 to 21/2 pounds over 21/2 pounds

Lobster Equivalents & Measures: 1 pound cooked = about 2 cups chopped chunks 1 tail (8-ounce) = 1 serving or 4 ounces cooked meat 1 whole lobster = 1 serving or 4 ounces (1- to 11/2-pound) cooked meat

Traditional Boiled Lobster To get the skinny on how to manage cooking one of those squirming green arthropods, we went to the source — Clearwater Seafood, whose Produce Road operation keeps them squirming until they are ready for our tables. Here is their advice on how to easily cook a whole lobster. Bring at least a half-gallon of water per pound of lobster to a rolling boil in a very large pot — if it is a 2-pounder, use a gallon of water. Add in four tablespoons of sea salt per halfgallon of water — that’s a half-cup for a 2-pounder. Carefully drop the lobsters, one at a time, headfirst into the water. Return the water to a boil, and then start timing: 1 lb. = 12-15 min 1.5 lbs. = 15-20 min 2-3 lbs. = 20-25 min

Determining fully cooked Lobsters: l

l l l

l l

Lobsters will turn their characteristic bright red color well before the meat is thoroughly cooked inside. Tug on an antennae or pull off one of the small walking legs. They both will come off easily when the lobster is done. The meat inside will be firm, white and opaque. The tomalley, which fills much of the body cavity, will be green. The roe in female lobsters will be bright red and firm. If it is a dark greenish black, with an oily tar-like consistency, the lobster is undercooked. The internal temperature will be 180 degrees. If the lobsters will not be eaten right away, they must be cooled quickly in ice water. Drain the chilled lobsters, cover and keep refrigerated.You can keep cooked lobsters in your refrigerator for one or two days.

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Lobster Cocktail (SERVES 6)

1 pound of fresh-picked cooked lobster meat cut into bite-size pieces Chopped lettuce Remoulade Lemon wedges for garnish Divide the chopped lettuce among six chilled martini glasses. Top each with equal portions of fresh lobster meat and spoon a dollop of remoulade sauce on top. Garnish with lemon wedge.

Grilled Lobster Tails with Champagne Dipping Sauce (SERVES 6) For the lobster tails: 3 lobster tails 6 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened 6 skewers

For the Champagne dipping sauce: 1 1 1 1 4 12

bottle Korbel Brut Champagne cup fresh parsley, chopped bunch thyme, chopped bay leaf shallots, chopped tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 12 pieces Salt Pepper (continued) www.facebook.com/foodanddine Spring 2013 41

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Grilled Lobster Tails with Champagne Dipping Sauce (continued) Lobster Tails: Heat the grill to mediumhigh heat. Cut the lobster tails in half lengthwise. Remove the meat from the tail shell and rub the inside of each shell with one tablespoon of the butter. Replace the meat and skewer each tail to keep the meat in place and to stop it from curling while cooking. Place the tail, shell side down, on the grill and cook without flipping the tail, until the meat is opaque, about 8 to 12 minutes. Dipping sauce: Pour the Champagne into a medium-size saucepan. Add the parsley, thyme, bay leaf and shallots. Cook over medium heat until just one cup of the liquid remains, about 25 minutes. Strain the liquid and discard the herbs. Slowly whisk in the butter, one tablespoon at a time, over low heat. When all the butter has been incorporated, season with salt and pepper to taste. Keep the mixture warm while grilling the lobsters then divide into individual bowls for dipping.

Lobster Bisque (SERVES 6)

For the lobster broth: 1 tablespoon butter 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil 6 cloves garlic, chopped 2 carrots, scraped and roughly chopped 2 celery ribs, roughly chopped 1 red onion, peeled and roughly chopped 1 /2 teaspoon Kosher salt Fresh cracked black pepper 1 ounce Bourbon 1 cup chardonnay 6 cups vegetable stock 1 /3 cup tomato paste 1 /2 teaspoon black peppercorns 3 cooked lobster carcasses, roughly chopped 3 bay leaves 1 cup fresh Italian flat-leaf parsley, roughly chopped 1 sprig fresh thyme For the roux: 8 tablespoons (1 stick) butter 1 /2 cup flour

42 Spring 2013 www.foodanddine.com

For the bisque: 1 cup heavy cream For the lobster meat: 2 tablespoons butter 3 cooked lobsters, meat cut bite-sized, claws reserved for garnish 1 bunch fresh chives, for garnish Broth: In a large pot, over medium heat, combine the butter and olive oil. Add the garlic, carrots, celery, onions, salt, pepper and sauté for 10 minutes. Deglaze the pan with the Bourbon. Add the chardonnay and let reduce for 1 to 2 minutes. Add the vegetable stock, tomato paste, peppercorns, lobster carcasses, bay leaves, parsley and thyme. Add enough water to just cover the shells. Turn the heat down to medium-low and simmer, partially covered, for one hour.

Roux: In a small saucepan, over medium heat, add the butter and flour and cook, whisking continuously until amber in color, 6 to 7 minutes. Remove from heat. Bisque: Using a very fine strainer, strain the lobster broth into a medium pot. Add the roux and heavy cream and stir to combine. Let reduce on medium-low heat until thick, another 15 to 20 minutes. Lobster meat: In a medium-size pan, over medium-high heat, melt the butter. Add the lobster meat and sauté until heated through, 1 to 2 minutes. To serve: Divide the lobster meat among six bowls, placing it in the center. Ladle the bisque around the meat and top with a claw and chives.

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Avalon’s Truffle Lobster Mac ‘n’ Cheese (SERVES 8 AS A SIDE DISH OR 4 AS A MAIN COURSE)

Note: Avalon is gone now, but the memory of its rich lobster mac ‘n’ cheese lingers. F&D liked the dish so much that we featured it back in the Spring 2006 issue (available online at www.foodanddine.com). 1 2 3 5 3 3 /4 2

/2 /2 2 3

Salt pound penne pasta tablespoons vegetable oil tablespoons butter tablespoons all-purpose flour cups whole milk cup heavy cream cups grated white Cheddar Black pepper Cayenne pound lobster claw meat cup grated Parmesan cheese tablespoons truffle oil tablespoons chopped chives

Bring one gallon of water to a boil with ample salt to make the water “taste like the sea,” as Italians say. Boil the pasta until it’s al dente, taking care not to overcook as it will cook further in the dish. Drain and rinse with cool water to stop it cooking; drizzle with a little vegetable oil and toss, to keep the pasta from sticking together. Melt the butter in a two-quart saucepan over medium heat, and whisk in the flour. Cook for one minute, then slowly pour in the milk while stirring constantly with a wire whisk. Stir vigorously to ensure that there are no lumps. Bring to a simmer, then, once the milk has thickened somewhat, remove the pan from heat and add the heavy cream and Cheddar cheese. Mix well. Season to taste with salt, pepper and cayenne. Toss the cooked pasta, cheese sauce and lobster meat together and place in a heavy oven-proof casserole dish. Sprinkle with the grated Parmesan cheese and bake uncovered at 350 degrees for 15

or 20 minutes, until the dish is bubbly and browning on top. Remove from the oven, drizzle with the truffle oil, and sprinkle with chopped chives as garnish. MAC ‘N’ CHEESE NOTES: When using fresh lobster, you can boil it a day ahead of time. For this recipe you will need two lobsters. You can add the tail meat, as well as the knuckle meat, into the pasta, or you can freeze it for later use. l We chose to use shell-shaped pasta instead of the traditional penne because shells come from the sea like lobsters — and they hold the cheese sauce better. F&D l

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The new New Albany In historic New Albany, where you can park, stroll, and enjoy, there’s a renaissance happening. New restaurants and shops, public art and history, and a Greenway along the river, beckon you to relax and recreate in an historic setting on the Ohio River. Come try our acclaimed eateries, award-winning art museum, winery, microbrewery, and recreational opportunities, all delivered on a human scale. Discover the future in an historic setting. Come explore New Albany’s Renaissance on the River. — ADVERTISEMENT—

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people and places profiles

BY J. CHRISTIAN WALSH | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

right on’cue The masked man behind Feast BBQ and his modern take on the world’s oldest cuisine

It may be that Louisville, Kentucky’s finest barbecue is in New Albany, Indiana. That is, if we can classify the offerings at Feast BBQ as such. Purists might object to Chef Ryan Rogers’ approach to the science of smoke. With his talk of salinity points and cutting edge electronics, the founder of this New Albany barbecue joint may as well be wearing a lab coat. Trained at the French Culinary Institute, Rogers has a fondness for kitchen gadgets and relishes the chance to fly in the face of conventional wisdom. Take, for instance, the way he eschews the normally coveted “smoke ring” found in classic, slow-and-low barbecue. Despite making for an appealing presentation, Rogers says the much-ballyhooed pink circle of nitrosyl hemochrome tends to occur in drier meat, creating a dish that is, well, dry. Instead, Rogers employs modern, unconventional means in his quest for consistently cooked, drippingly moist meats that he and his team at Feast brine for days. This tender, juicy product finds its way into a pleasing array of packaging, from tacos with pickled onions, cabbage and Cotija cheese (starting at $3.50), to sliders ($5 and up). Half or full pound sandwiches ($6.50 to $10.50) are also available. These and other plates can be rounded out with an assortment of crafty, not overly fussy sides and sweets that hint at the Chef ’s culinary school background and stint in one legendary New York kitchen. Rogers’ preference for computerized smokers may leave some traditionalists looking askance. But the narcotic effect brought on by Feast’s buttery brioche, vinegar slaw and a brisket that spends seven days in the making will have most turning a blind eye to all the heresy here — like the kitchen’s partiality for thermal immersion circulators and the presence of tofu in what is otherwise a shrine to animal protein.

46 Spring 2013 www.foodanddine.com

(above) Chef/Owner Ryan Rogers (masked), and GM Chip Hartley. (right) Half rack of baby back ribs.

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FEAST BBQ

116 W. Main St., New Albany IN (812) 920-0454

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This unlikely ingredient has received raves from critics, in part because the cooks here treat their soy protein with the same reverence they do everything else: slowly smoking it until a snappy skin forms, then dolling it up in a suit of slider, taco or sandwich fixings. “I’m not trying to kick dir t on traditional techniques. I’ve done them and they produce a nice product. But they can also suck — from a business point of view,” says Rogers. Rogers had opportunities to test his theories while building a resume around Louisville. At Zanzabar, he’d often feed a steady diet of split oak logs into the standard-style barrel smoker there, struggling mightily to balance his temperatures. On cold nights, the Chef might poke at the heat until 3 in the morning, unable to walk away from the small fortune in butt and brisket roasting at its excruciating pace. All this effort, he says, sometimes produced overwhelmingly smoky, unbalanced meat — not to mention a valuable learning experience. You won’t be seeing a full-time pit master at Feast any time soon. In place of this, Rogers reveals the digital equivalent — a Cookshack SmartSmoker SM260 — along with his own headspinning system of weights and measures that determine how much brine, what degree of smoke and the ideal temperature settings. That last element is one that can spike or sink well beyond the 200 to 250 degree standard found in classic ‘cue textbooks. These heat variations are simplified through the circuitry of a stainless steel, six-foot-tall BBQ robot, which can cook 40 chickens through a fusion of prehistoric technique and smar t phone-era technology. Thermostatic controls and an electric heater that

Now housed in the historic building that was known as the Sunny Side Saloon when it originally opened in 1882, Feast’s interior boasts much history and now lays claim to the largest Bourbon collection in Indiana. 48 Spring 2013 www.foodanddine.com

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smokes small wood chips allow the SmartSmoker to safely keep things smoldering during off-hours. As for how the meat is treated once leaving the smoker, well, that gets a little cloudy. “Other things happen, but I refuse to talk about them,” says Rogers. Asked if the food here is, technically, still barbecue, the Chef responds, “At the end of the day, if you get a better product, then I don’t think you can be upset about the method getting there.”

Smoke and mirrors The science is all well and good, but what we really want to know is, what’s with the mask? During the Food & Dining photo shoot that produced the adjoining images, Rogers appeared as though he was on his way to a stagecoach robbery, agreeing to be photographed only after he knotted a bandana around his face. We were a bit mystified why someone who possesses the looks of a Bret Easton Ellis character would want to hide behind a hanky? Perhaps it’s because Rogers is one-part American Psycho. “I want to put across the message that I’m somewhat out of my mind,” says the former acting student. “I think photos should tell a story. I don’t want to be the chef in the chef ’s coat holding a dish. I want people to remember it, to think either, A: ‘I’m going to go check out this guy’s restaurant, he’s clearly a nut case,’ or B: ‘I should not check out this guy’s restaurant, he’s clearly a nut case.’ ” To that end, Rogers stayed up for days in advance A pair of Feast’s sandwiches — pulled pork (above, right) and the tofu sandwich (opposite, bottom). The Maple Bourbon Sour made with Indiana maple syrup, lemon juice and one of the 105 available Bourbons (below, center).

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of a Courier-Journal photo shoot in order to get into the char acter of a culinary madman. A blindfolded Rogers also recently appeared on the cover of a LEO Weekly Dining Guide, and in an earlier article on his time at the Anchorage Café, Rogers became comfortable with the camera only after suspending a pig’s head between himself and the shooter. Pressed further on his apparent camera-shyness, Rogers stresses — as he did repeatedly during our interview — that Feast BBQ is not about him. It’s about the food and the trusted team that help execute it. He also expresses a pointed distaste for the celebrity chef thing. “I don’t like the notion of celebrity chef at all. And I’m not saying anything against anybody who promotes themselves as such. Just for me, personally, I don’t want to be the focus of this restaurant.” This position is interesting, noting the four months Rogers spent “getting his ass handed to him” in what was probably the hottest restaurant in the country at the time, one helmed by a chef who has truly become a household name. Listening to Rogers recount the gory details of that culinary boot camp, it doesn’t take a huge leap to understand his sometimes arms-length relationship with media, as well as how he became the restaurateur he is today.

tower of dessert and attempted to slide into the walk-in before the door shut. He didn’t make it; 44 quarts of homemade ice cream base were ruined when their plastic, Lexan containers smashed to the ground. Of course, when he looked up, he found Pemoulie staring over the disaster with a look of profound disgust and a fresh litany of F-bombs on the ready. Somehow, Rogers managed to turn things around, actually getting offered a full-time gig by Pemoulie later that week. He went on to nail his cooking final and it seemed that things were looking up. However, while proudly donning his chef whites on the way to graduation commencement, Rogers was halted by his ringing cell phone, just steps from the door. It was Pemoulie.The boss heard Rogers and a date had visited the restaurant the night before to celebrate the end of culinary school. After asking a couple of questions about their evening, Pemoulie abruptly fired Rogers. Stunned, the young chef then proceeded into the ceremony, suffering from “a minor form of posttraumatic stress.”

Unlucky peach The salty air coming off of the Atlantic Ocean was likely Ryan Rogers’ first sign that he’d fallen asleep on the subway again. When his eyes cracked open it was 5 a.m. on Coney Island and the exhausted culinary student began the trek back inland. Upon reaching his apartment, he prepared for what would surely be another non-stop day, pursuing a kitchen career in New York City. It was 2009, with graduation nearing. After classes at the French Culinary Institute, Rogers made the mile-plus sprint to his job at Momofuku. Still recovering from his last shift, he chugged two Monsters before reaching the buzzy noodle bar that was hungrily slurping up renown since its 2004 opening. Chef David Chang was becoming a national story and Rogers was content to grind away, without salary, for most of his tenure with the GQ Chef of the Year. Chang would go on to open 15 eateries, receive two Michelin stars, portray himself on TV shows, like the food-obsessed, HBO series “Treme,” write cookbooks and publish the magazine Lucky Peach. But working for the bun king was no cakewalk. That night, Kevin Pemoulie was running the show in place of the increasingly sought after Chang. Pemoulie was “just mean,” a yes chef / no chef, Gordon Ramsey-type of monolith who seemed to have it in for Rogers. Unfortunately, not long into Rogers’ shift at the busy bun station, the oven door broke. “I don’t know who kicked his dog that morning, but (Pemoulie) just unleashed this tirade,” says Rogers. “A solid 20 minutes with every curse word in the book, and a packed dining room!” In this classic kitchen nightmare, Pemoulie condemned Rogers to a night of mise-en-place in the basement, raging at him, telling him, in not very delicate language, not to show his face for the rest of the service, to not even come upstairs for the rest of the night. This all within sight of what must have felt like every foodie in New York. Rogers’ night out of Pemoulie’s glare didn’t improve. He perhaps tried to accomplish too much too quickly, moving a hotel tray stacked to the ceiling with house-made, soft-serve ice cream base. Rogers flung the freezer open, hastily scooped up his 50 Spring 2013 www.foodanddine.com

(right) After five hours in the smoker, Feast’s fried chicken is flash-fried. (above) Tater tots covered with creamy slaw, BBQ sauce and green onions. (top) Taco of brisket, cabbage, Cotija cheese, pickled onion and cilantro.

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Meanwhile, happy classmates moved to congratulate Rogers on his new post at Momofuku, saying they were happy they’d now have time to visit him at the hotspot. “Yep, yep. I’ll see you there,” the shell-shocked Rogers batted back, unsure whether he was being replaced by the injured chef he’d filled in for or had offended some unwritten policy at the restaurant or what.

Though it would leave an indelible impression, Rogers has recovered well from that rollercoaster week, since trading the high-traffic, high-profile world of the New York food scene for New Albany’s Main Street. He seems at home among the 36,000 who inhabit this city and although he’s chosen a most basic format to showcase his talent, there remains a controlled element of flash and whimsy that Chang and Pemoulie were unable to knock out of him. Rogers says he learned more from that kitchen experience than any culinary class. He believes the genius of David Chang is

reinvention. See Feasts’ riff on Tater Tots ($5) for an example of this. These nuggets of deep-fried potato arrive in igloo-sized portions and are dusted with green onions, creamy slaw and BBQ sauce. The salty crunch of the tots may evoke your school days, but the crispness of the cabbage and gently sweet sauce form something elevated. Adding any of Feast’s smoked meats ($2 or $3) promotes these Tots from side dish to meal. Further down the menu, there’s Rev. Rogers White Chocolate Bread Pudding ($7). Asked if the Reverend was real, the chef reveals that the recipe was presented to him by his grandfather, a minister who, during time away from the flock, had cooked 10,000 sheet pans of the stuff at his son’s Gallatin, TN restaurant. Rogers was honored and, of course, couldn’t leave well enough alone. Because the dense pudding can take up to 30 minutes to warm in the oven, Rogers elected instead to deep fry it, cut it into sticks, roll those in sugar Asian-style and use the white chocolate as a dipping sauce. “Well, my grandfather comes in about a month after we

how he created a one-of-a-kind brand without trying to reinvent the wheel. He notes the five other noodle bars within blocks of Momofuku that few can name. This is something Rogers clearly aspires to, although it would be a fib to say the contrarian isn’t guilty of a little wheel

open. Of course, he wants his namesake bread pudding, and I think it really offended him,” says Rogers. By now, it comes as no surprise that Rogers manages to piss off even his own family members with all this recipe tinkering. It’s also no surprise that it is entirely worth it. F&D

“They call me Tastebuds.”

www.facebook.com/foodanddine Spring 2013 51

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dining guide Cuisine Style African............................76 Asian/Chinese ................76 Asian/Filipino..................77 Asian/Japanese ..............77 Asian/Korean..................78 Asian/Mongolian ............78 Asian/Thai ......................78 Asian/Vietnamese...........79 Bar & Grill ......................74 Barbecue ........................73 Bistro/Contemporary. .....60 Cafés .............................62

Cafeterias .......................69 Cajun/Creole...................82 Caribbean/Cuban............82 Casual Dining .................65 Coffee/Tea House ...........84 Desserts/Bakery .............85 Entertainment Dining......69 European/Bosnian ..........79 European/French ............79 European/German ..........80 European/Irish................80 European/Italian .............80 European/Spanish ..........80

Fine Dining .....................56 Home Style/Southern .....68 Indian .............................81 Mexican..........................82 Microbreweries ..............76 Middle Eastern ...............81 Pizza...............................70 Sandwich/Deli ................72 Seafood..........................64 Southwest/Tex Mex ........84 Steakhouse ....................65 Upscale Casual...............56

Area Maps begin on page 86 Alphabetical Index RESTAURANT

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE

211 Clover Lane 30 Red Sports Saloon 60 West Bistro 610 Magnolia A Nice Restaurant A Taste of China A.P. Crafters Kitchen & Bar Achille’s Pizza Addis Grill Adobo Mexican Restaurant Adrienne & Co. Bakery Café Adrienne’s Italian Against The Grain Brewery Al Nuur Al Watan Alley Cat Café Amici Anchorage Café Angilo’s Pizza Angio’s Restaurant Ann’s by the River Annie Cafe Annie May’s Sweets Café Annie’s Pizza Another Place Anselmo’s Italian Bistro Apocalypse Brew Works Applebee’s Arata Sushi Arni’s Pizza Aroma Café Asahi Japanese Asian Buffet Asian Moon Asiatique Aspen Creek Restaurant Atrium Café August Moon Austin’s BD’s Mongolian Grill B3Q BBQ Baby D’s Bagels & Deli Backyard Burger The Bakery Bamboo House Banh Mi Hero Bank Street Brewhouse Barbara Lee’s Kitchen The Bard’s Town Basa Modern Vietnamese Baxter Station Baxter’s 942 Bar & Grill Bazos Mexican Grill Bean Street Coffee Co. Bearno’s Pizza Beef O’Brady’s Beijing Grill & Sushi Bar 52 Spring 2013 www.foodanddine.com

RESTAURANTS LISTED ALPHABETICALLY, FOLLOWED BY THE PAGE NUMBER OF ITS REVIEW, THE CUISINE STYLE, AND THE CORRESPONDING MAP NUMBER(S). [ ] DENOTES UNMAPPED MULTIPLE LOCATIONS. MAP #

56 Fine Dining 3 74 Bar & Grill 11 56 Upscale Casual 3 56 Fine Dining 13 65 Casual Dining 14, 16 76 Asian/Chinese 1 60 Bistro/Contemporary 5 70 Pizza 16 76 African 1 82 Mexican 11 85 Desserts/Bakery 16 80 European/Italian 16 76 Microbreweries 1 76 African 13 81 Middle Eastern 4 62 Cafés 5 80 European/Italian 13 62 Cafés 5 70 Pizza 13 70 Pizza 4 69 Cafeterias 16 79 Asian/Vietnamese 13 85 Desserts/Bakery 3 70 Pizza 1, 12 72 Sandwich/Deli 1 80 European/Italian 2 76 Microbreweries 2 66 Casual Dining [6] 77 Asian/Japanese 10 70 Pizza 14 63 Cafés 14 77 Asian/Japanese 3 76 Asian/Chinese 4, 14 76 Asian/Chinese 4, 6 57 Upscale Casual 2 66 Casual Dining 11 60 Bistro/Contemporary 5 76 Asian/Chinese 2 57 Upscale Casual 7 78 Asian/Mongolian 6 73 Barbecue 14 72 Sandwich/Deli 2 72 Sandwich/Deli 6 85 Desserts/Bakery 4 76 Asian/Chinese 13 79 Asian/Vietnamese 2 76 Microbreweries 14 68 Home Style/Southern 2 69 Entertainment Dining 2 57 Upscale Casual 2 60 Bistro/Contemporary 2 74 Bar & Grill 2 82 Mexican 3, 6 84 Coffee/Tea House 14 70 Pizza [12] 74 Bar & Grill 5, 12, 13, 14, 15 77 Asian/Japanese 14

RESTAURANT

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE

MAP #

Bela’s Café 76 African 13 Bendoya Sushi Bar 77 Asian/Japanese 1 Big Al’s Beeritaville 74 Bar & Grill 2 Big Momma’s Soul Kitchen 68 Home Style/Southern 1 The Bistro 69 Cafeterias 3 Bistro 1860 Wine Bar 60 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Bistro 301 60 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Bistro 42 80 European/Italian 10 Bistro Le Relais 79 European/French 4 BJ’s Restaurant & Brewhouse 66 Casual Dining 5 Blackstone Grille 57 Upscale Casual 10 The Blind Pig 60 Bistro/Contemporary 2 BLU Mediterranean Grille 57 Upscale Casual 1 Blue Dog Bakery 63 Cafés 2 Blue Horse Café 66 Casual Dining 13 Bluegrass BBQ 73 Barbecue 3 Bluegrass Brewing Co. 76 Microbreweries 1, 3 Bluegrass Burgers 66 Casual Dining 3 Bluegrass Café 63 Cafés 2 Boardwalk Fresh Burgers 72 Sandwich/Deli 16 Bombay Grill 81 Indian 5 Bonefish Grill 64 Seafood 5 Bonnie & Clyde’s Pizza 70 Pizza 12 Boombozz Famous Pizza 70 Pizza 3 Boombozz Pizza Bistro 70 Pizza 6 Boombozz Pizza & Taphouse 70 Pizza 2, 5 Boomer’s Café 63 Cafés 1 Bootleg Barbecue Co. 73 Barbecue 11, 13 Borromeo’s Pizza 70 Pizza 13 Bosna-Mak 79 European/Bosnian 4 Bourbons Bistro 60 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Brandon’s BBQ & Pizza 73 Barbecue 5 Bravo! 57 Upscale Casual 3 Breadworks 85 Desserts/Bakery 2, 5, 7 The Brewery 74 Bar & Grill 2 Brian’s Deli 72 Sandwich/Deli 1 Brickhouse Tavern & Tap 66 Casual Dining 6 Bristol Bar & Grille 57 Upscale Casual 1,2,5,10,13,16 Brix Wine Bar 64 Bistro/Contemporary 8 Brownie’s Grille & Bar 74 Bar & Grill 5 Bruegger’s Bagels 72 Sandwich/Deli 3 Buca Di Beppo 80 European/Italian 6 Buck’s 56 Fine Dining 13 Buckhead Mountain Grill 66 Casual Dining 4, 16 Bud’s Tavern & Barbecue 74 Bar & Grill 12 Buffalo Wild Wings 74 Bar & Grill 2,3,5,6,8,12,15 Bungalow Joe’s 74 Bar & Grill 11 Bunz Restaurant 66 Casual Dining 2 Burger Boy 72 Sandwich/Deli 13 Burning Bush Grille 81 Middle Eastern 10 Butcher’s Best 72 Sandwich/Deli 10 Butterfly Garden Café 63 Cafés 2 Café 360 81 Middle Eastern 2 Café Fraiche 63 Cafés 7 Café Lou Lou 61 Bistro/Contemporary 2,3 Café Magnolia 66 Casual Dining 1 Café Mimosa 79 Asian/Vietnamese 2

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RESTAURANT

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE

Café Montagu Café Thuy Van Caffe Classico Cake Flour California Pizza Kitchen Captain’s Quarters Cardinal Hall of Fame Café Carrabba’s Italian Grille Cast Iron Steakhouse Cat Box Deli Cattleman’s Roadhouse Caviar Japanese Restaurant Cellar Door Chocolates Champions Grill Champions Sports Bar Champp’s Americana Charim Korean Restaurant Charlestown Pizza Co. Charlestown Train Station Charr’d Bourbon Kitchen Check’s Café Cheddar Box Café Cheddar’s Casual Café Cheer King Star The Cheesecake Factory Cheezy’s Pizza Chef Maria’s Greek Deli Chez Seneba African The Chicken House Chicken King Chili’s China 1 China Buffet China Café China Castle China Garden China Inn China King China Taste Chinese Chef Chinese Express Choi’s Asian Food Market Chong Garden Chopshop Salads Chopsticks Chopsticks House Chung King Chuy’s City Café Clark’s Lyndon Village Pub Clarksville Seafood Clifton’s Pizza Clucker’s Wings Coach Lamp Coals Artisan Pizza CoCo’s Chocolate Café Coffee Crossing Come Back Inn The Comfy Cow Copper Cupcake Corbett’s ‘an American place’ Corner Café Cottage Café Cottage Inn Crave Café & Catering Cravings a la Carte Creekside Outpost & Café Cricket’s Café Crystal Chinese Cuban Flavor Cubana Restaurant Culver’s Cumberland Brews Cunningham’s The Cupcake Shoppe D’Nalley’s Restaurant Dakshin Indian Restaurant DaLat’s Gateaux & Bakery Dancing Sushi Danish Express Pastries Danny Mac’s Pasta & Pizza Dave & Peg’s Copper Kettle Day’s Espresso De La Torre’s Decca Deckers Grilled Sandwiches Del Frisco’s Derby Café Derby City BBQ Derby Dinner Playhouse Desserts By Helen Devino’s Diamond Pub & Billiards Difabio’s Casapela DiOrio’s Pizza & Pub Dish On Market Ditto’s Grill Dizzy Whizz Drive-In Doc Crow’s Dooley’s Bagels Double Dragon Double Dragon II Double Dragon 9 DP UpDogs Dragon King’s Daughter Drake’s Dre’Lynn’s Soul Food Dunkin’ Donuts DuValle Grub N Scrub

MAP #

63 Cafés 13 79 Asian/Vietnamese 13 61 Bistro/Contemporary 2 85 Desserts/Bakery 1 70 Pizza 5 66 Casual Dining 10 66 Casual Dining 13 80 European/Italian 5 65 Steakhouse 10, 16 72 Sandwich/Deli 1 65 Steakhouse 6, 13 57 Upscale Casual 1 85 Desserts/Bakery 1 66 Casual Dining 16 74 Bar & Grill 1 74 Bar & Grill 3 78 Asian/Korean 3 70 Pizza 16 64 Seafood 16 57 Upscale Casual 6 68 Home Style/Southern 1 63 Cafés 3 66 Casual Dining 8, 13, 15 76 Asian/Chinese 1 58 Upscale Casual 3 70 Pizza 16 72 Cafés 3 76 African 13 68 Home Style/Southern 14 68 Home Style/Southern 1 66 Casual Dining 4, 5, 8, 13 76 Asian/Chinese 3 76 Asian/Chinese 15 76 Asian/Chinese 13 76 Asian/Chinese 12 76 Asian/Chinese 13 76 Asian/Chinese 13 76 Asian/Chinese 6 76 Asian/Chinese 16 76 Asian/Chinese 13 76 Asian/Chinese 12 78 Asian/Japanese 5 76 Asian/Chinese 12 66 Casual Dining 1, 3 76 Asian/Chinese 1 76 Asian/Chinese 1 76 Asian/Chinese 1 84 Southwest/Tex Mex 3,15 63 Cafés 1 74 Bar & Grill 5 64 Seafood 15 70 Pizza 2 74 Bar & Grill 13, 14, 16 66 Casual Dining 1 70 Pizza 3 85 Desserts/Bakery 2 84 Coffee/Tea House 14 80 European/Italian 1, 16 85 Desserts/Bakery 2,5,13 85 Desserts/Bakery 8 56 Fine Dining 8 58 Upscale Casual 5 68 Home Style/Southern 5 68 Home Style/Southern 13 63 Cafés 2 69 Cafeterias 1 63 Cafés 14 63 Cafés 15 76 Asian/Chinese 1 82 Caribbean/Cuban 11 82 Caribbean/Cuban 2 66 Casual Dining 6 76 Microbreweries 2 66 Casual Dining 1, 10 85 Desserts/Bakery 3 68 Home Style/Southern 1 81 Indian 11 85 Desserts/Bakery 13 78 Asian/Japanese 8 72 Sandwich/Deli 3 70 Pizza 13 68 Home Style/Southern 5 84 Coffee/Tea House 2 80 European/Spanish 2 58 Upscale Casual 1 66 Casual Dining 6 65 Steakhouse 3 63 Cafés 13 73 Barbecue 13 69 Entertainment Dining 16 85 Desserts/Bakery 2 72 Sandwich/Deli 1 74 Bar & Grill 2, 3 80 European/Italian 2 70 Pizza 3 61 Bistro/Contemporary 1 61 Bistro/Contemporary 2 72 Sandwich/Deli 1 58 Upscale Casual 1 72 Sandwich/Deli 7 76 Asian/Chinese 1, 2 76 Asian/Chinese 8, 11, 12, 13 76 Asian/Chinese 6 72 Sandwich/Deli 14 78 Asian/Japanese 2 74 Bar & Grill 3, 8 68 Home Style/Southern 13 85 Desserts/Bakery 2 73 Barbecue 13

RESTAURANT

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE

MAP #

Eagle Lake & Restaurant 64 Seafood 12 Earth Friends Café 64 Cafés 1, 14 Eastern House 76 Asian/Chinese 12 Eddie Merlot’s 65 Steakhouse 1 Edesia Gardens 66 Casual Dining 6 Eggroll Machine 76 Asian/Chinese 2 Eiderdown 80 European/German 13 Einstein Brothers Bagels 72 Sandwich/Deli 1 El Burrito de Oro 82 Mexican 15 El Caporal 82 Mexican 4, 6, 15 El Mariachi 82 Mexican 5 El Marlin Seafood 82 Mexican 6 El Molcajete 82 Mexican 13 El Mundo 82 Mexican 2 El Nopal 82 Mexican [16] El Ranchero 82 Mexican 4 El Rincon Cuban Restaurant 82 Caribbean/Cuban 13 El Sombrero 82 Mexican 16 El Tarasco 82 Mexican 3, 5, 6, 13 El Tenampa Bar & Grill 82 Caribbean/Cuban 12 El Torazo 82 Mexican 6 El Toro Cantina & Grill 82 Mexican 5 Emperor of China 76 Asian/Chinese 7 Empress of China 76 Asian/Chinese 4 The English Grill 56 Fine Dining 1 Equus 58 Upscale Casual 3 Erika’s German Restaurant 80 European/German 6 Ermin’s Bakery & Café 64 Cafés 1 Ernesto’s 82 Mexican 6 Exchange Pub + Kitchen 61 Bistro/Contemporary 14 Expression Of You 84 Coffee/Tea House 2 The Falafel House 81 Middle Eastern 2 Famous Dave’s Bar-B-Que 73 Barbecue 6, 15 Famous Mike’s Steak & Lemonade 66 Casual Dining 13 Fat Daddy’s Pizza 70 Pizza 13 Fat Jimmy’s 70 Pizza 5 FeastBBQ 74 Barbecue 14 The Feed Bag 72 Sandwich/Deli 3 Fiesta Time Mexican Grill 82 Mexican 8, 11 Fire Fresh Bar B Q 74 Barbecue 1, 12 Firehouse Subs 72 Sandwich/Deli 5 First Wok 76 Asian/Chinese 12 The Fish House 64 Seafood 2, 5 The Fishery 64 Seafood 3, 5 The Fishery Station 64 Seafood 11 Fish-Fry House 64 Seafood 2 Five Guys Burgers & Fries 66 Casual Dining 8, 14 Flabby’s Schnitzelburg 66 Casual Dining 13 Flanagans Ale House 75 Bar & Grill 2 Food 4 Ur Soul 68 Home Style/Southern 1 Forty Acres & A Mule 68 Home Style/Southern 13 Four King’s Café 75 Bar & Grill 4 Four Pegs Beer Lounge 61 Bistro/Contemporary 13 Franco’s Restaurant 68 Home Style/Southern 12 Frankfort Ave. Beer Depot 74 Barbecue 3 Frascelli’s N.Y. Deli & Pizza 72 Sandwich/Deli 8 Frolio’s Pizza 70 Pizza 13 Frontier Diner 68 Home Style/Southern 12 The Fudgery 85 Desserts/Bakery 1 Fuji Asian Bistro 78 Asian/Japanese 12 Fuji Japanese Steakhouse 78 Asian/Japanese 5, 8 Funmi’s African Restaurant 76 African 4 FX Pizza 70 Pizza 14 Garage Bar 66 Casual Dining 1 Gary’s On Spring 58 Upscale Casual 2 Gasthaus 80 European/German 7 Gavi’s Restaurant 66 Casual Dining 1 Gelato Gilberto 85 Desserts/Bakery 8 Genghis Grill 78 Asian/Mongolian 8 Gerstle’s Place 75 Bar & Grill 3 Ghyslain 79 European/French 1, 8 Gigi’s Cupcakes 85 Desserts/Bakery 6 Golden Buddha 76 Asian/Chinese 13 Golden Corral 68 Home Style/Southern 4,13,15 Golden Palace 76 Asian/Chinese 13 Golden Star Chinese 76 Asian/Chinese 13 Golden Wall 76 Asian/Chinese 13 Goose Creek Diner 66 Casual Dining 8 Gordon Biersch Brewery 76 Microbreweries 1 Grady’s Burgers & Wings 66 Casual Dining 13 Granny’s Apron 68 Home Style/Southern 13 Granville Inn 75 Bar & Grill 13 Grape Leaf 81 Middle Eastern 2 Great American Grill 75 Bar & Grill 13 Great Harvest Bread Co. 85 Desserts/Bakery 5 Great Life Café 72 Sandwich/Deli 6, 8, 15 Great Wall 76 Asian/Chinese 2 Great Wok 77 Asian/Chinese 13 Green Leaf Vegetarian 66 Casual Dining 13 Green Room Coffee 84 Coffee/Tea House 6 Guaca-Mole 82 Mexican 5 Habana Blues Tapas 82 Caribbean/Cuban 14 Hall’s Cafeteria 69 Cafeterias 2 Hammerheads 61 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Hanabi Japanese Restaurant 78 Asian/Japanese 10 Happy China 77 Asian/Chinese 6 Hard Rock Café 61 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Harley’s Hardwoodz BBQ 74 Barbecue 16 Harvest 58 Upscale Casual 1 Havana Rumba 82 Caribbean/Cuban 3, 5 Hawksview Gallery 58 Upscale Casual 13 Hazelwood Restaurant 68 Home Style/Southern 12 Heart & Soy 78 Asian/Japanese 2 Heine Brothers Coffee 84 Coffee/Tea House [13] Heitzman Bakery & Deli 85 Desserts/Bakery 1, 5 Henry’s Place 58 Upscale Casual 7 Hibachi Sushi Buffet 77 Asian/Chinese 11 Highland Coffee Co. 84 Coffee/Tea House 2 Highland Morning 64 Cafés 2 www.facebook.com/foodanddine Spring 2013 53

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RESTAURANT

MOBILE BANKING Allows you to access your deposits anytime, anywhere, via text, your phone’s browser, or our free iPhone, iPad and Android Apps.*

Check your balance when you’re away from home. Transfer funds any time of the day. Paying your bills is easy on your phone.

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54 Spring 2013 www.foodanddine.com

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE

Highlands Taproom Grill Hiko A Mon Sushi Bar Hill Street Fish Fry Hilltop Tavern Hitching Post Inn Hobknobb Roasting Co. Holy Grale Home Run Burgers & Fries Homemade Pie Kitchen Hometown Buffet Hometown Pizza Honey Creme Donut Shop Honeybaked Café Hong Kong Chinese Hong Kong Fast Food Hoops Grill and Sports Bar Hooters Howl at the Moon Hunan Wok Ichiban Samurai IHOP Incredible Dave’s Indi’s Restaurant The International Mall The Irish Exit The Irish Rover Iroquois Pizza J. Alexander’s J. Graham’s Café J. Gumbo’s J. Harrods Jack Binion’s Steakhouse Jack Fry’s Jack’s Lounge Jackson’s Seafood Jade Palace Jamba Juice Jane’s Cafeteria Jasmin Bakery Jasmine Jason’s Deli Java Brewing Co. Jazzyblu Jeff Ruby’s Steakhouse Jersey Mike’s Subs Jersey’s Café Jimmy John’s Sub Shop Joe Huber Restaurant Joe’s Crab Shack Joe’s O.K. Bayou Joe’s Older Than Dirt John E’s John O’Bryan’s Tavern Johnny Brusco’s Pizza Johnny V’s JR’s Pub Jucy’s Smokehouse Jumbo Buffet Kailana Sushi Kansai Japanese Rest. Karem’s Kashmir Indian Kayrouz Café Kenna’s Korner Kern’s Korner King Wok Kingfish King’s Coffee King’s Fried Chicken Kobe Japanese Steak Koreana II KT’s Kum’s Kafe La Bamba La Bocca La Bocca Pizzeria La Bodega La Carreta La Colombiana La Coop: Bistro à Vins La Gallo Rosso Bistro La Hacienda Guadalajara La Monarca La Pasadita La Popular La Que La Rosita Mexican Grill La Rosita Taqueria Lancaster’s Cafeteria Las Gorditas Lee’s Korean Legend’s Lemongrass Café Lenny’s Sub Shop The Lighthouse Lil’ Cheezers Lilly’s Limestone Ling Ling Little Caesar’s Pizza Little India Café Liu’s Garden Logan’s Roadhouse Lolitas Tacos Inc. Longhorn Steakhouse Lonnie’s Taste Of Chicago Los Aztecas Los Mezcales

MAP #

75 Bar & Grill 2 78 Asian/Japanese 5 64 Seafood 13 75 Bar & Grill 2 75 Bar & Grill 11 84 Coffee/Tea House 14 61 Bistro/Contemporary 2 66 Casual Dining 3, 5, 6, 13 85 Desserts [9] 68 Home Style/Southern 6,3 70 Pizza 7 85 Desserts/Bakery 14 72 Sandwich/Deli 3, 11, 14 77 Asian/Chinese 14 77 Asian/Chinese 13 75 Bar & Grill 13 66 Casual Dining 3,13,12,15,16 69 Entertainment Dining 1 77 Asian/Chinese 11 78 Asian/Japanese 6 66 Casual Dining 6, 15 69 Entertainment Dining 8 68 Home Style/Southern 1,3,13,16 80 European/Italian 1 80 European/Irish 14 80 European/Irish 2, 7 70 Pizza 13 58 Upscale Casual 3 64 Cafés 1 82 Cajun/Creole 1,2,5,6 59 Upscale Casual 10 56 Fine Dining 14 56 Fine Dining 2 62 Bistro/Contemporary 3 64 Seafood 14 77 Asian/Chinese 5 64 Cafés 1 69 Cafeterias 4 85 Desserts/Bakery 4 77 Asian/Chinese 5 72 Sandwich/Deli 3, 5 84 Coffee/Tea House 2,8,10 62 Bistro/Contemporary 1 65 Steakhouse 1 72 Sandwich/Deli 5, 6, 8 75 Bar & Grill 15 72 Sandwich/Deli [9] 69 Entertainment Dining 14 64 Seafood 1 82 Cajun/Creole 6 66 Casual Dining 5 59 Upscale Casual 4 75 Bar & Grill 12 70 Pizza 8 70 Pizza 6 75 Bar & Grill 14 74 Barbecue 5 77 Asian/Chinese 6 78 Asian/Japanese 11 78 Asian/Japanese 6, 15 67 Casual Dining 8 81 Indian 2 64 Cafés 3 70 Pizza 8 67 Casual Dining 2 77 Asian/Chinese 3 64 Seafood 6, 7, 16 84 Coffee/Tea House 14 68 Home Style/Southern 13 78 Asian/Japanese 16 78 Asian/Korean 13 59 Upscale Casual 2 68 Home Style/Southern 13 82 Mexican 2 80 European/Italian 14 70 Bar & Grill 14 80 European/Spanish 2 82 Mexican 13 81 European/Spanish 8 79 European/French 1 80 European/Italian 2 82 Mexican 13 82 Mexican 11 82 Mexican 16 82 Mexican 13 79 Asian/Vietnamese 2 82 Mexican 14 82 Mexican 5, 13, 15 69 Cafeterias 14 82 Mexican 11 78 Asian/Korean 13 67 Casual Dining 14 79 Asian/Vietnamese 5 72 Sandwich/Deli 4 75 Bar & Grill 16 72 Sandwich/Deli 2 56 Fine Dining 2 56 Fine Dining 5 77 Asian/Chinese 5 70 Pizza 5, 6, 8, 11, 13, 14, 16 81 Indian 4 77 Asian/Chinese 5 65 Steakhouse 3, 6, 12, 15 84 Mexican 13 65 Steakhouse 6, 8, 13, 15 72 Sandwich/Deli 2, 13 84 Mexican 1, 5, 10 84 Mexican 13

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Lotsa Pasta 72 Sandwich/Deli 3 Louis Le Francais 79 European/French 14 Louisville Pizza Co. 70 Pizza 6 Louisville Tea Co. 84 Coffee/Tea House 5 Luigi’s 71 Pizza 1 Ma Zerellas 71 Pizza 15 Maa Sha Allah 76 African 4 Mai’s Thai Restaurant 78 Asian/Thai 16 Main Eatery 72 Sandwich/Deli 1 Main Street Café 72 Sandwich/Deli 1 Majid’s St. Matthews 62 Bistro/Contemporary 3 Maker’s Mark Lounge 59 Upscale Casual 1 Manhattan Grill 67 Casual Dining 1 Manny & Merle 62 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Mark’s Feed Store 74 Barbecue 2, 5, 11, 12, 14 Marketplace Restaurant 62 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Marlyce’s Place 85 Desserts/Bakery 15 Martini Italian Bistro 80 European/Italian 8 Masa Japanese 78 Asian/Japanese 5 Mayan Café 84 Mexican 1 McAlister’s Deli 72 Sandwich/Deli [9] Mellow Mushroom 71 Pizza 3, 5 The Melting Pot 59 Upscale Casual 6 Meridian Café 64 Cafés 3 Mexican Fiesta 84 Mexican 4 Mexico Tipico 84 Mexican 12 Mexico Viejo 84 Mexican 2 Mikato Japanese Steakhouse 78 Asian/Japanese 3 Mike & Matt’s 68 Home Style/Southern 16 Mike Linnig’s 65 Seafood 12 Mike’s Tavern 75 Bar & Grill 14 Milkwood 56 Fine Dining 1 Mimi’s Café 67 Casual Dining 5 Ming’s Buffet 77 Asian/Chinese 2 Mirage Mediterranean Grill 81 Middle Eastern 13 Miss C’s Kitchen & Pantry 69 Home Style/Southern 1,2 Mitchell’s Fish Market 65 Seafood 8 Moe’s Southwest Grill 84 Southwest/Tex Mex 3,6,8,11,15 Mojito Tapas Restaurant 81 European/Spanish 7 Molly Malone’s 80 European/Irish 2, 3 Momma’s Mustard, Pickles & BBQ 74 Barbecue 3 The Monkey Wrench 67 Casual Dining 2 More Shenanigan’s 80 European/Irish 4 Morris Deli & Catering 72 Sandwich/Deli 1, 2 Morton’s of Chicago 65 Steakhouse 1 Mr. Gattis 71 Pizza 5, 12, 13, 15 Mrs. Potter’s Coffee 84 Coffee/Tea House 1 Mucho Queso Pizzeria 71 Pizza 2 Mulligan’s Pub and Grill 67 Casual Dining 2 Mussel & Burger Bar 62 Bistro/Contemporary 6 My Favorite Muffin 85 Desserts/Bakery 5 My Old KY Dinner Train 69 Entertainment Dining 13 NamNam Café 79 Asian/Vietnamese 3 Nana’s Country Kitchen 69 Home Style/Southern 12 Nancy’s Bagel Box 72 Sandwich/Deli 1 Nancy’s Bagel Grounds 72 Sandwich/Deli 2 Napa River Grill 59 Upscale Casual 5 Neil & Patty’s Fireside Grill 67 Casual Dining 14 New Albanian Brewing Co. 71 Pizza 14 New Albany Roadhouse 67 Casual Dining 14 New China 77 Asian/Chinese 5 New Direction Bar & Grill 75 Bar & Grill 8 Nonnie’s Kitchen 64 Cafés 5 Nord’s Bakery 85 Desserts/Bakery 13 North End Café 62 Bistro/Contemporary 2 O’Charley’s 67 Casual Dining 3,6,8,13,12,15 O’Dolly’s 69 Home Style/Southern 13 O’Shea’s Irish Pub 80 European/Irish 2 The Oakroom 56 Fine Dining 1 Oasis Sushi & Soul 78 Asian/Japanese 13 Oishii Sushi 78 Asian/Japanese 4 Old 502 Winery 62 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Old Chicago Pasta & Pizza 71 Pizza 6, 8 Old Spaghetti Factory 80 European/Italian 1 Old Stone Inn 59 Upscale Casual 5 Ole Hickory Pit BBQ 74 Barbecue 11 The Olive Garden 80 European/Italian 6,8,11,15 Ollie’s Trolley 72 Sandwich/Deli 1 Onion Restaurant & Tea House 77 Asian/Chinese 14 Orange Clover Kitchen 64 Cafés 16 Oriental House 77 Asian/Chinese 3 Oriental Star 77 Asian/Chinese 13 Original Impellizzeri’s 71 Pizza 1, 2, 10 Osaka Sushi Bar 78 Asian/Japanese 1, 2 Otto’s Café 67 Casual Dining 1 Outback Steakhouse 65 Steakhouse 3,8,11,13,15 P. F. Chang’s China Bistro 59 Upscale Casual 5 Palermo Viejo 81 European/Spanish 2 Panda Chinese 77 Asian/Chinese 10 Panda Express 77 Asian/Chinese 15 Panera Bread Co. 72 Sandwich/Deli [9] Papa John’s 71 Pizza [30] Papa Murphy’s Pizza 71 Pizza 3,4,5,8,11,12,14,15,16 Papalino’s NY Pizzeria 71 Pizza 2 Passtime Fish House 65 Seafood 6 Pat’s Steak House 65 Steakhouse 2 Patrick O’Shea’s 80 European/Irish 1 Paul’s Fruit Market 73 Sandwich/Deli 3, 4, 5, 7 Paula Deen Buffet 67 Casual Dining 14 Pearl 79 Asian/Vietnamese 14 Peking City Bistro 77 Asian/Chinese 5 Penn Station 73 Sandwich/Deli [17] Peppers Bar and Grill 67 Casual Dining 1 Perfetto Pizza 71 Pizza 6 Perkfection 84 Coffee/Tea House 16 Pesto’s Italian 80 European/Italian 1 Petra Mediterranean 81 Middle Eastern 4 Pho Binh Minh 79 Asian/Vietnamese 13

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Piccadilly Cafeteria 69 Cafeterias 6 Pina Fiesta Mexican Grill 84 Mexican 12 Pink Baron BBQ 74 Barbecue 16 Pit Stop Bar-B-Que 74 Barbecue 5 Pita Delights 81 Middle Eastern 1 Pita Hut 81 Middle Eastern 2 Pita Pit 81 Middle Eastern 6 Pizza King 71 Pizza 14, 16 Pizza Place 71 Pizza 4 Please & Thank You 84 Coffee/Tea House 2 Plehn’s Bakery 85 Desserts/Bakery 3 Police Donuts 85 Desserts/Bakery 5 Ponderosa Steakhouse 65 Steakhouse 13 Porcini 80 European/Italian 2 Potbelly Sandwich Shop 73 Sandwich/Deli 1 Proof On Main 59 Upscale Casual 1 Puccini’s Smiling Teeth 71 Pizza 3 Puerto Vallarta 84 Mexican 11, 14, 16 Qdoba Mexican Grill 84 Mexican [13] Quattro 80 European/Italian 1 Queen of Sheba 76 African 1, 4 Queue Café 64 Cafés 1 Quick Wok 77 Asian/Chinese 1 Quill’s Coffee 84 Coffee/Tea House 2, 13, 14 Quizno’s Subs 73 Sandwich/Deli [7] Rafferty’s of Louisville 67 Casual Dining 3, 8 Raising Cane’s 67 Casual Dining 8 Ramiro’s Cantina 84 Mexican 2 Ramsi’s Café 62 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Red Hot Roasters 85 Coffee/Tea House 1, 2 Red Robin Gourmet Burgers 67 Casual Dining 3, 8 Red Sun Chinese 77 Asian/Chinese 4 Red’s Comfort Food 73 Sandwich/Deli 1 Relish 62 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Ri Ra Irish Pub 80 European/Irish 1 Rite Way Bar-B-Cue House 74 Barbecue 1 River City Drafthouse 75 Bar & Grill 2 River City Winery 62 Bistro/Contemporary 4 River Road BBQ 74 Barbecue 7 Riverside Café 64 Cafés 16 Rivue 56 Fine Dining 1 Rocky’s Pizza & Panini 71 Pizza 4 Rocky’s Sub Pub 71 Pizza 16 Romano’s Macaroni Grill 80 European/Italian 5 Rooster’s 67 Casual Dining 12, 13, 15 Rootie’s Sports Bar & Grille 75 Bar & Grill 8 Roots 78 Asian/Japanese 2 Rosie’s Pizza 71 Pizza 5 Rosticeria Luna 84 Mexican 13 Royal Garden 77 Asian/Chinese 13 Rubbie’s Southside Grill & Bar 74 Barbecue 13 Ruby Tuesday 67 Casual Dining 6, 15 The Rudyard Kipling 67 Casual Dining 1 Rumors Raw Oyster Bar 65 Seafood 5 Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse 65 Steakhouse 3 Ryan’s Steakhouse 65 Steakhouse 11 Rye 59 Upscale Casual 1 SaE Café 73 Sandwich/Deli 1 Saffron’s 81 Middle Eastern 1 Safier Mediterranean Deli 81 Middle Eastern 1 Saigon Café 79 Asian/Vietnamese 3 Saigon One 79 Asian/Vietnamese 13 Saint’s 75 Bar & Grill 3 Sake Blue Japanese Bistro 78 Asian/Japanese 11 Sakura Blue 78 Asian/Japanese 3 Sal’s Pizza & Wings 71 Pizza 5 Sala Thai 79 Asian/Thai 11 Salsarita’s Fresh Cantina 84 Southwest/Tex Mex 3,5 Sam’s Food & Spirits 67 Casual Dining 14 Santa Fe 84 Mexican 16 Santa Fe Grill 84 Mexican 13 Sapporo Japanese Grill 78 Asian/Japanese 1, 2 Sari Sari Filipino Cuisine 77 Asian/Filipino 2 Sato’s Zen Sushi & Sake 78 Asian/Japanese 3 Schlotzsky’s Deli 73 Sandwich/Deli 8 Scotty’s Ribs & More 74 Barbecue 5 Scotty’s Village Market 73 Sandwich/Deli 8 Selena’s at Willow Lake Tavern 82 Cajun/Creole 5 Senor Iguana’s 84 Mexican 5, 6, 13, 15 Sergio’s World Beers 75 Bar & Grill 2 Seviche A Latin Restaurant 56 Fine Dining 2 Shack In The Back BBQ 74 Barbecue 13 Shady Lane Café 73 Sandwich/Deli 7 Shah’s Mongolian Grill 78 Asian/Mongolian 6, 13 Shalimar Indian 81 Indian 6 Shane’s Rib Shack 74 Barbecue 7 Shanghai Restaurant 77 Asian/Chinese 1 Shenanigan’s Irish Grille 80 European/Irish 2 Sherry’s Corner Café 64 Cafés 16 Shiraz Mediterranean Grill 81 Middle Eastern 2, 5, 7, 13 Shirley Mae’s Café 69 Home Style/Southern 1 Shogun 78 Asian/Japanese 6, 8 Shoney’s 67 Casual Dining 5, 13 Sichuan Garden 77 Asian/Chinese 6 Sicilian Pizza & Pasta 71 Pizza 1 The Silver Dollar 62 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Simply Thai 79 Asian/Thai 3, 5 Sin Fronteras 84 Mexican 15 Sir Dano’s Pizza Parlor 71 Pizza 15 Sister Bean’s 85 Coffee/Tea House 13 Sitar Indian Restaurant 81 Indian 2 Skyline Chili 67 Casual Dining 2, 3, 6, 12 Smashburger 67 Casual Dining 1, 5 Smokehouse BBQ 74 Barbecue 11 Smoketown USA 74 Barbecue 1 Smokey Bones BBQ 74 Barbecue 6 Smokey’s Bean 85 Coffee/Tea House 13 Snappy Tomato 71 Pizza 8

RESTAURANT

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE

Sol Aztecas Sonoma Coffee Café Soora Korean Restaurant Soupy’s Spaghetti Shop Spinelli’s Pizzeria Sporting News Grill The Sports & Social Club Spring St. Bar & Grill St. Charles Exchange Star Sushi Starbucks Coffee Starving Artist Café State Donuts Steak N Shake Stevens & Stevens Deli Steve-O’s Italian Kitchen Stoney River Stricker’s Café Studio Pizza Sub Station II Sugar & Spice Donut Shop Sully’s Saloon Sunergos Coffee SuperChef’s Breakfast Sway Sweet Stuff Bakery Sweet Surrender Sweets & Such Bakery Taco Punk Taco Tico Tacqueria La Mexicana Taj Palace Take Out To The River Tambayan Filipino TanThai Restaurant Tazza Mia TC’s Sandwich Shoppe Tea Station Chinese Bistro Texas Roadhouse Texicans BBQ Pit TGI Friday’s Thai Café Thai Siam Thai Smile 5 Thai Taste That Place On Goss The Back Door The Café The Cheddar Box The Cheddar Box Too Thornberry’s Deli & Pies Tin Roof Toast On Market Tokyo Japanese Tom + Chee Tomo Tony Impellizzeri’s Trailside Café Troll Pub Under The Bridge Tucker’s Tumbleweed Tuscany Italian Restaurant Twig & Leaf Restaurant Uncle Maddio’s Pizza Joint Uptown Café Varanese Verbana Café Vic’s Café Vietnam Kitchen Village Anchor Pub & Roost Vincenzo’s Vint Coffee Vito’s Pizza Volare W.W. Cousin’s Wagner’s Pharmacy Wall Street Deli Warehouse Hookah Café Wasabiya Japanese Rest. Webb’s Market Wick’s Pizza Wild Eggs Wild Ginger Sushi & Fusion William’s Bakery Wiltshire On Market The Wing Zone Wingstop Winston’s Wok Express Wolfgang Puck Express Wonton Express Yaching’s East West Cuisine Yafa Café Yang Kee Noodle Yellow Cactus Yen Ching You-Carryout-A Za’s Pizza Zanzabar Zaxby’s Zaytun Mediterranean Grill Zen Garden ZiaLaLa Café Zoe’s Kitchen Zoup! Z’s Oyster Bar

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84 Mexican 1, 2 85 Coffee/Tea House 2 78 Asian/Korean 8 73 Sandwich/Deli 4 80 European/Italian 11, 14 71 Pizza 1, 2, 3, 8 75 Bar & Grill 13 75 Bar & Grill 1 75 Bar & Grill 2 65 Steakhouse 1 78 Asian/Japanese 16 85 Coffee/Tea House [35] 73 Sandwich/Deli 5 85 Desserts/Bakery 8 68 Casual Dining 4,6,8,13,12,15 73 Sandwich/Deli 2 80 European/Italian 7 65 Steakhouse 8 64 Cafés 16 71 Pizza 15 73 Sandwich/Deli 13 85 Desserts/Bakery 11 75 Bar & Grill 1 85 Coffee/Tea House 1, 13 68 Casual Dining 2, 3 59 Casual Dining 1 85 Desserts/Bakery 14 85 Desserts/Bakery 2 85 Desserts/Bakery 12 68 Casual Dining 1 84 Mexican 12 84 Mexican 13 81 Indian 8 64 Cafés 10 77 Asian/Filipino 11 79 Asian/Thai 14 85 Coffee/Tea House 6 73 Sandwich/Deli 1 77 Asian/Chinese 8 65 Steakhouse 2, 12, 13, 15 74 Barbecue 7 68 Casual Dining 1 79 Asian/Thai 7 79 Asian/Thai 4 79 Asian/Thai 13 79 Asian/Thai 2 68 Casual Dining 13 75 Bar & Grill 2 64 Cafés 1 64 Cafés 3 64 Cafés 3 73 Sandwich/Deli 13 75 Bar & Grill 3 68 Casual Dining 1, 14 78 Asian/Japanese 7 73 Sandwich/Deli 2 78 Asian/Japanese 14 71 Pizza 14 85 Coffee/Tea House 5 76 Bar & Grill 1 68 Casual Dining 14 84 Southwest/Tex Mex [15] 80 European/Italian 13 68 Casual Dining 2 71 Pizza 2 59 Upscale Casual 7 60 Upscale Casual 2 64 Cafés 8 76 Bar & Grill 14 79 Asian/Vietnamese 13 82 Bistro/Contemporary 5 56 Fine Dining 1 85 Coffee/Tea House 2 71 Pizza 13 80 European/Italian 2 73 Sandwich/Deli 3 69 Home Style/Southern 13 73 Sandwich/Deli 1 82 Middle Eastern 14 78 Asian/Japanese 2 69 Home Style/Southern 1 71 Pizza 2, 5, 6, 8, 14 64 Cafés 3, 5 78 Asian/Japanese 2 85 Desserts/Bakery 15 60 Upscale Casual 1 68 Casual Dining 13 76 Bar & Grill 12 56 Fine Dining 4 77 Asian/Chinese 1 64 Cafés 1 77 Asian/Chinese 4 60 Upscale Casual 1 64 Cafés 1 77 Asian/Chinese 5 84 Mexican 14 77 Asian/Chinese 6 77 Asian/Chinese 15, 16 72 Pizza 2 76 Bar & Grill 13 68 Casual Dining 5,13,14,16 82 Middle Eastern 2 79 Asian/Vietnamese 2 64 Cafés 5 82 Middle Eastern 1, 3, 8 73 Sandwich/Deli 1 56 Fine Dining 5 www.facebook.com/foodanddine Spring 2013 55

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GUIDE KEY Average Entrée Price:

$$ = under $8 $$$$ = $15-$20 $$ = $9-$14 $$$$ = $21 & up RED = Advertiser

B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

h = Late Night OPEN PAST 10 P.M.

p = Full Bar f e

= Outdoor Dining = Live Music

ALL RESTAURANTS ARE LOCATED IN LOUISVILLE (unless noted otherwise). All phone numbers are local calls. When out of the area, use area code 502 for all listings except Indiana, use 812.

211 CLOVER LANE RESTAURANT 211 Clover Ln. 896-9570. This stylish spot in St. Matthews continues to rank among the city’s top tables. Ownermanager Andrew Smith and long time Chef Troy Schuster have burnished the upscale atmosphere and creative menu, moving 211 Clover Lane to a destination dining spot. $$$$ Br L D pf 610 MAGNOLIA 610 Magnolia Ave., 636-0783. Chef Edward Lee’s creative international prix fixe menu has

kept this elegantly comfortable Old Louisville restaurant a top table for more than 25 years. His monthly family style pasta and bistro dinners across the street in the Wine Studio give diners a way to appreciate his skills at a lower price point. $$$$ D pf BUCK’S 425 W. Ormsby Ave., 637-5284. Elegant but not overstated, this fine dining room in the Mayflower Apartments has been quietly serving high-style lunches and dinners for more than two decades. The quality of food and service remains high, and Rick Bartlett continues his long tenure at the piano. $$$ L D hpfe CORBETT’S ‘AN AMERICAN PLACE’ 5050 Norton Healthcare Blvd., 327-5058. Dean Corbett, longtime fixture on the Louisville dining scene, went all-out with his East End destination. Housed in the stunning former Von Allmen mansion, Corbett’s kitchen is state of the art, the dining room amenities include a chef’s table with closed circuit TV connection to the kitchen, and his menu has been earning raves. Worth the trip and the price. $$$$ L D hpf ENGLISH GRILL 335 W. Broadway (The Brown Hotel), 583-1234. This landmark, formal dining room is firing on all cylinders under Chef Laurent Geroli, who brings an international sophistication to the menu, and a wider exploration of cuisines with occasional special wine dinners. We recommend booking the chef’s table for an especially memorable evening. $$$ D p JACK BINION’S STEAKHOUSE Horseshoe Casino Hotel, Elizabeth, IN, 888-766-2648. Housed in the Horseshoe Casino, Jack Binion’s, a stylish, upscale place, is no gamble for hearty dining. A traditional steakhouse, but one that aims high: top quality meat, impeccable service, a high-roller’s ambience. $$$$ D hp JACK FRY’S 1007 Bardstown Rd., 452-9244. Good times or bad, weeknights or weekends, this Louisville institution — the remnant of a 1930s saloon — is always crowded and buzzing. Stephanie Meeks has

taken over from long-time owner Susan Seiler, but the upscale bistro fare, like shrimp and grits and spicy fried oysters, is as good as ever. $$$$ L D hpe LILLY’S 1147 Bardstown Rd., 451-0447. A Louisville institution for more than a quarter-century, Lilly’s, under much heralded owner-chef Kathy Cary, continues to be as fresh as the locally-sourced foods she features on her Kentucky-accented menus. Her frequent special wine dinners are among the more affordable and creative in the area. $$$$ Br L D p LIMESTONE 10001 Forest Green Blvd., 426-7477. Chef Jim Gerhardt has established a stylish and elegant dining experience in the East End. Seasonal theme dinners and the Feed Me Chef ad hoc dinners offer special values. $$$$ L D hpf MILKWOOD 316 W. Main St., 584-6455. Edward Lee has taken over the basement space at Actors Theatre, revamped the decor, and with Len Stevens, formerly of L&N Wine Bar managing, will run it as a “modern speakeasy with cuisine that will explore Southern Bar Food with an Asian pantry.” That means both wine and beer on tap, and a quirky menu that will include Lee’s take on fried chicken and “lip-smacking frog legs.” $$$ D p THE OAKROOM 500 S. Fourth St. (Seelbach Hotel), 585-3200. Executive Chef Jim Gerhardt (who also operates Limestone in the East End) continues to make the Oakroom worthy of its AAA fivediamond designation. The menu is refined but lively, melding local produce and specialty items like spoonfish caviar with classic continental cuisine. $$$$ Br D pe RIVUE 140 N. Fourth St., (Galt House Hotel) 568-4239. The sleek black and white modern decor, slowly spinning to give a panorama of the city, brings to mind an old Fred Astaire movie. Chef Brian Riddle’s menu, with a local emphasis and upscale flourishes, adds another top hotel dining experience to the city. $$$ Br D hp SEVICHE A LATIN RESTAURANT 1538 Bardstown Rd., 473-8560. Featured on the menu is seviche, the Latino seafood dish “cooked” in tart citrus juices, but Chef Anthony Lamas’ menu offers a broad, eclectic range of Latin American dishes. Lamas has recently been getting national notice in Esquire and on TV’s “Extreme Chef,” and with the renovation and expansion of the restaurant now complete, he is setting a new standard of cool for the Bardstown Road eating scene. $$$$ D hpf VINCENZO’S 150 S. Fifth St., 580-1350. Known for its suave professional service, high-end Northern Italian fare and many trademark dishes finished at tableside, Vincenzo’s continues to hold its own against growing downtown competition. $$$$ L D hpe WINSTON’S RESTAURANT 3101 Bardstown Rd., (Sullivan University Campus), 456-0980. Higher education meets higher cuisine at this elegant oncampus restaurant staffed by Sullivan culinary arts students. But this is no college lab; it’s an attractive and stylish restaurant. Chef John Castro runs the staff through its paces guaranteeing that while students are learning their craft, your dinner will ace the test. Open Fri. - Sun. only. Reservations suggested. $$$ Br L D p Z’S OYSTER BAR & STEAKHOUSE 101 Whittington Pkwy., 429-8000, 115 S. Fourth St., 855-8000. The successful upscale steak and oyster concept that has worked so well in the Hurstbourne suburbs is now also the theme at Z’s sleek downtown venue. Splendid steaks, extraordinary seafood, fine service and clubby ambience will give visitors another center-city choice. $$$$ L D hp

60 WEST BISTRO & MARTINI BAR 3939 Shelbyville Rd., 719-9717. 60 West combines a comfortable dining room with a large, friendly bar offering an 56 Spring 2013 www.foodanddine.com

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imposing list of martinis and martini-style cocktails. The menu offers fairly priced Contemporary American bistro fare. $$$ D hfe ASIATIQUE 1767 Bardstown Rd., 451-2749. Fifteen years ago Chef Peng Looi introduced Louisville diners to pan-Asian Pacific Rim fusion cuisine. In his sophisticated, multi-level, Bardstown Road restaurant he continues to offer clean, simple, elegant dishes that present often startling flavor combinations. His wok-seared salmon has long been a local favorite. $$$ Br D hpf AUSTIN’S 4950 U.S. 42, 423-1990. Big, crowded and bistro-style, with heavy emphasis on the bar, this suburban watering hole taps the same vein as the national franchise booze ’n’ beef genre, and does so well, offering satisfying dining at a fair price. $$ Br L D p BASA MODERN VIETNAMESE 2244 Frankfort Ave., 896-1016. Chef Michael Ton brought a new style of Asian fusion cuisine to Louisville, playing entertaining riffs off Vietnamese cooking, with daring choices like caramelized catfish claypot and tamarind-sriracha gelato. $$$ D hp BLACKSTONE GRILLE 9521 U.S. 42, 228-6962. Longtime restaurateur Rick Dissell, formerly of Rick’s Ferrari Grille, continues to please his many fans at his latest restaurant in the Prospect Center. The menu offers sandwiches and an array of bistro entrées — pasta, seafood, beef and chicken, including Rick’s fried chicken livers and “light” fried chicken. $$$ Br D pf THE BLIND PIG 1076 E. Washington St., 618-0600. (See listing under Bistro/Contemporary.) BLU ITALIAN MEDITERRANEAN GRILLE 280 W. Jefferson St. (Louisville Marriott), 627-5045. BLU offers upscale Italian Mediterranean cuisine in striking surroundings highlighted by Mexican limestone and Italian marble. For those seeking a relaxing libation and a quicker snack, the Bar at BLU offers a more casual alternative. $$$ B Br L D pe BRAVO! 206 Bullitt Ln. (Oxmoor Center), 326-0491. Management describes the Ohio-based Bravo! chain as “a fun, white-tablecloth casual eatery … positioned between the fine-dining and casual chains.” A Romanruin setting houses abundant Italian-American style fare. We particularly enjoyed appetizers and firstrate grilled meats. $$ Br L D hpf BRISTOL BAR & GRILLE 1321 Bardstown Rd., 4561702, 300 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 426-0627, 614 W. Main St., 582-1995, 6051 Timber Ridge Dr., 292-2585, 2035 S. Third St., 634-2723, 700 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville, IN, 218-1995. A cornerstone of Louisville’s restaurant Renaissance, The Bristol started three decades ago on Bardstown Road. Now with six venues around town, diners can always find dependable pub grub, eclectic entrées, and evergreen standards like the green-chile won tons and the Bristol Burger. F&D columnist Scott Harper has crafted an exceptional wine selection. $$ Br L D hpf

The Perfect Location for Every Occasion

CAVIAR JAPANESE RESTAURANT 416 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 625-3090. Sammy Sa, the genial host of the Fuji restaurants in the East End, also pleases downtown diners with this stylish Japanese eatery next door to the Seelbach Hotel. Eat at the sushi bar, choose a comfortable table or reserve the traditional Japanesestyle Tatami Room for your group. $$$ L D hp CHARR’D BOURBON KITCHEN & LOUNGE 1903 Embassy Square Blvd. (Marriott Louisville East), 4911184. The restaurant in the Jeffersontown Marriott plays up its Bourbon theme on the menu divisions (“10 minute White Dog” lunch choices, “Bourbon Kitchen Favorites,” “Bootlegger Burger Bar” and so on) but in addition you will find some interesting outliers: fish tacos, a turkey burger, truffle mac and cheese and hot water cornbread. The Bourbon selection is impressive and includes more than 75 offerings of Kentucky’s finest. $$$ Br L D hp

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

KENTUCKY’S Y’S FIRST AND ONLY AAA FIVE DIAMOND AWARD RESTAURANT

Located in

500 South Fourth Street www.TheOakroomLouisville.com (502) 807-DINE

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THE CHEESECAKE FACTORY 5000 Shelbyville Rd., (Mall St. Matthews) 897-3933. “Cheesecake” is its name, and this glitzy shopping-mall eatery offers a wide variety of rich, calorific choices to eat in or take out. It’s more than just cheesecake, though, with a wide-ranging menu of California, Southwestern and Pacific Rim fare plus full bar service. $$$ Br L D hpf CORNER CAFÉ 9307 New Lagrange Rd., 426-8119. There’s nothing fancy or overly elegant about this suburban neighborhood old favorite, but the term “eclectic” fits it well. $$$ L D hp DECCA 812 E. Market St., 749-8128. Located in an 1870s building in NuLu, Decca brings the talent of chef Annie Pettry to Louisville. A commitment to locally farmed and small production ingredients is evident in the kitchen, and throughout the bar and wine program. Decca features local artists and musicians alongside inspired food and drinks in a warm atmosphere. $$$$ D hpfe DOC CROW’S 127 W. Main St., 587-1626. Doc Crow’s solidly anchors the dining choices on Whiskey Row. Oysters from both coasts, raw and fried, fried green tomatoes, pork rinds, shrimp and grits, all served in a handsome renovation of one of Main Street’s classic cast-iron front buildings. $$ L D hp EQUUS 122 Sears Ave., 897-9721. With the newish Corbett’s in the East End hitting on all cylinders, veteran Chef Dean Corbett has returned to his flagship St. Matthews restaurant, redesigning the room for a more casual atmosphere, and refocusing the menu on comfort foods, with no entrée over $19. Though the prices are lower, we don’t expect the quality of fare to follow suit. $$$ D p GARY’S ON SPRING 204 Spring St., 584-5533. Chef Harold Baker has been at the helm of this Irish Hill upscale casual spot since the start about a year ago. His menu features appetizers such as a baby Hot Brown and chicken fritters with red chili sauce, a buffalo mozzarella salad, bison ribeye, Bourbon Street scallops and eggplant napoleon. $$$ D phpfe HARVEST 624 E. Market St., 384-9090. Agricultural entrepreneur Ivor Chodkowski’s venture into the restaurant world focuses on locally sourced foods (Chodkowski and Chef Coby Ming are shooting for 80% from within 100 mile radius), which limits the fish selection, but increases diners’ awareness of how much local food producers can do. Dishes such as smoked goat cheese ravioli and buttermilk fried chicken with arugula hoecake show what they have in mind. $$$ Br L D hpf HAWKSVIEW GALLERY AND CAFÉ 170 Carter Ave., Shepherdsville, KY, 955-1010. In this “American bistro with a Southern twist,” diners eat amidst a gallery of hand-crafted glass art. Daily specials are inspired by world cuisines and the “confectionary artist” creates sweets like Linzer tortes and extreme turtle cheesecake. Watch glass being blown as you dine. $$ Br L D e HENRY’S PLACE 4863 Brownsboro Ctr., 690-6585. Named for reputed gourmand Henry Watterson, this new East End, Euro-inspired brigade de cuisine restaurant offers affordable upscale dining in surroundings of “sophisticated retro Mad Men 60s” decor. The eclectic menu offers choices such as Wagyu beef carpaccio, seared ahi tuna with fennel slaw, chicken ballotine and cioppino. Chef and co-owner Charles Reed even uses double-yolk duck eggs in his house-made pasta for added richness and color. $$$$ D p J. ALEXANDER’S RESTAURANT 102 Oxmoor Court, 339-2206. This comfortably upscale venue, a Nashville-based chain, features “contemporary American” fare with a broad menu that ranges from burgers and sandwiches to such upscale eats as grilled tuna or a New York strip steak. $$$ D hp

58 Spring 2013 www.foodanddine.com

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J. HARROD’S 7507 Upper River Rd., 228-4555. J. Harrod’s is discreetly tasteful and pleasantly comfortable. The food is competitive in both quality and value. It’s an appealing, upscale blend of bistro fare and old-fashioned country cooking. $$$ D p JOHN E’S 3708 Bardstown Rd., 456-1111. Thirty years of framed Derby programs and winning tickets line the walls. But you don’t have to place a bet to enjoy this rambling Buechel restaurant. The Porterhouse steak tastes good in the Bob Baffert Room whether or not your horse came in. $$$$ Br L D pfe KT’S 2300 Lexington Rd., 458-8888. It’s hard to argue with success, and KT’s has earned its popularity by providing good American-style bar and bistro chow for a price that’s fair. $$ Br L D hpf

LOCAL EATS

AMERICAN SPIRITS

900 EAST MARKET STREET RYEONMARKET.COM

MAKER’S MARK BOURBON HOUSE & LOUNGE 446 S. Fourth St., (Fourth Street Live) 568-9009. Kentucky’s Maker’s Mark Distillery lends its name and its signature red-wax image to this stylish restaurant and lounge in the booming downtown entertainment complex. A magisterial bar features more than 60 Bourbons, and the menu offers traditional Kentucky fare. $$$$ L D hpf MELTING POT 2045 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-3125. This Florida-based chain brings back pleasant memories of fondue parties of the ’70s. If you can melt it and dip things in it, the Melting Pot probably has it on the menu. $$$ D hp NAPA RIVER GRILL 1211 Herr Ln., 893-0141. Innovative wine-country cuisine, excellent service and fine California-focused wine collection can be found in the stylish quarters of this popular East End restaurant. With an expanded menu serving both lunch and dinner, it’s become one of the anchors of trendy Westport Village center. $$$ L D hpf OLD STONE INN 6905 Shelbyville Rd., Simpsonville, KY, (502) 722-8200. For many years diners have happily driven out to Simpsonville to enjoy both the historic building and the traditional Kentucky menu of this dining institution. Those in the know order the fried chicken and country ham. $$$ Br L D pfe P.F. CHANG’S CHINA BISTRO 9120 Shelbyville Rd., 327-7707. This Arizona-based, Chinese themed restaurant offers a loud, happy scene with Chinesestyle dishes. To its credit, everything is prepared well and service is consistently fine. $$$ L D hpf PROOF ON MAIN 702 W. Main St., (21c Hotel) 2176360. Executive chef Levon Wallace is at the helm in the kitchen now, promising to keep the bison burger and the octopus on the menu as he explores his own ways to incorporate local products into his culinary vision. $$$ Br L D hpf RYE 900 E. Market St., 749-6200. After a long apprenticeship in the New York restaurant world, Michael Trager-Kusman has returned to his hometown where he and his partner, Aaron Yarmuth, have invested in the renovation of the old Hausmann Jeep Eagle building on far east Market St. Operating the restaurant is front-of-the-house manager Erin McDonald, who came from Chicago, and Chef Tyler Morris, a veteran of The Breslin in New York. $$ L D hpf SWAY 320 W. Jefferson St. (Hyatt Regency), 587-3434. After a $5.8 million renovation, the Hyatt Regency, long without a signature competitive restaurant, is now back in the game, with one of the handsomest dining spaces around. The menu is based on the “Southern Way,” from whence comes the name Sway, which is an emphasis on fresh seasonal food with local sourcing whenever possible. The bar area opens onto Fourth Street, for superior people-watching. $$$ B L D hpf UPTOWN CAFÉ 1624 Bardstown Rd., 458-4212. Anchoring a hot corner in the Highlands for two decades now, the Uptown continues to be a popular lunch and dining destination, with its excellent bistro fare, and always appealing dessert selections. $$$ L D hpf

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

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VARANESE 2106 Frankfort Ave., 899-9904. Chef John Varanese has made even old-timers forget that this stylish venue was once a gas station. With a slate interior waterfall and a front wall that folds open in good weather, the dining room is as interesting as the lively, international seasonal menu. Live jazz, contemporary art and urban style complete the mood. $$$ D hpfe VOLARE 2300 Frankfort Ave., 894-4446. (See review under European/Italian.) WILTSHIRE ON MARKET 636 E. Market St., 5895224. Understated elegance and creative dishes characterize this NuLu restaurant. Owner Susan Hershberg set the benchmark for fine catering in Louisville with Wiltshire Pantry, which she continues here with her finely crafted small plates menu that changes weekly to showcase the best seasonal ingredients. Open Thur. - Sat. only. Reservations suggested. $$ D pf YACHING’S EAST WEST CUISINE 105 S. Fourth St., 585-4005. Yaching’s promises “an eclectic menu of contemporary Asian fusion cuisine.” It’s an attractive mix of East and West, sufficient to give just about everyone something to enjoy, regardless of which compass point attracts your taste buds. $$$ L D hp

A.P. CRAFTERS KITCHEN & BAR 1321 Herr Ln., 690-5000. Tony Palombino stretches beyond his gourmet pizza with this bold venture in Westport Village. The decor echoes the place’s name, with floor to ceiling shelving stocked with vintage cookware, distillery and brewer’s supplies. The menu concept is Euro gastropub, with upscale comfort food, craft beers and “Prohibition-style” cocktails. $$ L D hpf ATRIUM CAFÉ 9940 Corporate Campus Dr. (Embassy Suites), 426-9191. An eclectic bistro atmosphere in the heart of the hotel. Specials run from their popular crab cakes and array of pasta dishes to a Reuben sandwich or fruit pie. $$ B L D hp BAXTER STATION BAR & GRILL 1201 Payne St., 5841635. The corner bar with the railroad theme is also an ambitious restaurant, known for surprises like Cajun linguini with andouille sausage, homemade desserts (from pastry chef Amy Berry) and lunchtime “steam table” plates. Take particular note of an impressive beer list to go with your meal. $$ L D pf BISTRO 1860 WINE BAR 1765 Mellwood Ave., 6181745. Michael Crouch, formerly of Bourbons Bistro, heads the kitchen, offering a menu he calls “new American-French fusion” and describes as continental techniques applied to an eclectic range of small plates. All parts of the menu are offered at three size/price ranges: petite for tasting, appetizer and small entrée, allowing diners to explore the menu at reasonable cost. The bar emphasizes wines and custom cocktails. $$$ D hpf BISTRO 301 301 W. Market St., 584-8337. Quality contemporary American cuisine in a stylish environment makes Bistro 301 a reasonable alternative when you’re looking for upscale-casual dining downtown. $$$ L D pf THE BLIND PIG 1076 E. Washington St., 618-0600. A popular hangout since its opening, this Euro-style gastropub’s menu focuses on French country cooking, house-made sausages and charcuterie, served in a casual but sophisticated atmosphere in a late-19th century building in Butchertown. After dinner, pop upstairs to the trendy Meat, one of Louisville’s top nightspots. $$ Br L D hpe BOURBONS BISTRO 2255 Frankfort Ave., 894-8838. It’s a comfortably upscale-casual restaurant, and a great bar, with a very comprehensive Bourbon list. This Crescent Hill favorite’s menu is well-matched with the excellence of its libations. $$$ D pf

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BRIX WINE BAR 12418 La Grange Rd., 243-1120. The use of an exceptionally obscure wine term (it’s pronounced “bricks” and refers to the sugar content of ripe grapes at harvest) hints that the proprietors of this wine bar know their vino. Interesting wines and a short bistro-style menu make it a welcome suburban alternative. $$ D hpe CAFÉ LOU LOU 106 Sears Ave, 893-7776, 2216 Dundee Rd., 459-9566. This popular spot wins critical raves and packs in crowds. Owner-Chef Clay Wallace is comfortable with his international bill of fare and laissez les bon temps rouler mood. A second location in the Douglass Loop is drawing equally-pleased crowds. $$ Br L D hp CAFFE CLASSICO 2144 Frankfort Ave., 895-0076. At first a coffee bar, but over the years the classy space at Clifton and Frankfort has matured into an elegant bistro serving an eclectic menu — salmon croquettes with wasabi aioli, empanadas, an international array of salads, panini, bocadillos and pizzas. A stylish place for lunch, or a hip stop for a late-night supper. $$ B L D fe DISH ON MARKET 434 W. Market St., 315-0669. Former Asiatique bar manager Anderson Grissom has stepped into the venerable lawyers’ lunch space on Market Street, renovating the kitchen and some interior space of the old Delta Restaurant into a somewhat upscale spot now open breakfast through dinner. $ B Br L D pf DITTO’S GRILL 1114 Bardstown Rd., 581-9129. This informally whimsical Highlands space masks the work of classically trained owner-chefs Dominic Serratore and Frank Yang. Sure, take note of the fanciful artwork adorning the exposed brick walls and the gargoyles in the ceiling. But don’t overlook Serratore’s “gourmet casual” menu of New England crab cakes, fanciful salads and Sunday brunch egg dishes. $$ Br L D hpf EXCHANGE PUB + KITCHEN 118 W. Main St., New Albany, IN, 948-6501. Ian Hall, with Chef Rick Adams in tow, has moved his gastropub to a sumptuously renovated historic building in the center of the New Albany dining revival. His clever but accessible American bistro style food is available from lunch to late night. Notable on the menu are bison dishes — burger, nachos (housemade chips with bison chili topping) and skirt steak. $$ L D hpfe FOUR PEGS BEER LOUNGE 1053 Goss Ave., 6341447. Taking over the space vacated by the Germantown Pub, Four Pegs offers craft beer at approachable prices, as well as well-priced pub grub such as a chicken and waffle sandwich and a pork chop sandwich served with a Granny Smith apple slaw. Chef Matt Flink, formerly of Browning’s, helms the kitchen here. $ D h HAMMERHEADS 921 Swan St., 365-1112. Two veterans of the upscale kitchens along Bardstown Road have taken over the old Swan Dive space, and patrons of the previous vegan haunt are quickly becoming fans. Vegetarian selections such as crispy mushroom medley and veggie tacos join interesting oddities like duck sliders and bacon plantain croquetas. Also pulled pork and brisket, crab cakes, and a reasonable beer selection. $ D h HARD ROCK CAFÉ 424 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live), 568-2202. Louisville’s Fourth Street Live echoes with a bang amid hammering guitars and happy throngs at the local branch of this popular shrine to rock. The music scene is the draw, but you’ll have no complaints about Hard Rock’s standard American cuisine. $$ L D hpfe HOLY GRALE 1034 Bardstown Rd., 459-9939. The owners of the Louisville Beer Store have converted a former church to a beer pub and restaurant. Twenty taps offer a rotating choice of international brews, and an eclectic menu offers Belgian fritjes, pretzels and beer cheese, tacos and crostini. $ L D he

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JACK’S LOUNGE 122 Sears Ave., 897-9026. A sophisticated, elegant bar associated with the Equus restaurant next door, Jack’s offers a short but excellent menu featuring appetizers and light bites, along with a drinks list beyond reproach. $ D pf JAZZYBLU 815 W. Market St., 992-3243. The basement space at Glassworks that formerly housed The Jazz Factory is bopping again with regularly scheduled live jazz performances Thurs. - Sun. nights, and southern comfort food style lunch buffets Tues. - Fri. $ L D hpe MAJID’S ST. MATTHEWS 3930 Chenoweth Sq., 6182222. Long-time restaurateur and top-notch host Majid Ghavami’s current venture, in the heart of St. Matthews, offers a Mediterranean-American menu. The wine bar serves small plates, and focuses on American wines and an eclectic list from unusual locations — Lebanon, Israel, Greece and the Balkans. $$$ Br D pfe MANNY & MERLE 122 W. Main St., 290-8888. Tony Palombino’s latest addition to his eclectic local empire serves up contemporary Mexican street food (Mod Mex) and a funky bar menu that highlights an impressive collection of tequilas and Bourbons. A major C&W music venue, with live acts most nights of the week, featuring Nashville bands as well as local talent tending to the rawer, honkytonk end of the country spectrum. $ L D hpe MARKETPLACE RESTAURANT 651 S. Fourth St., 625-3001. Up front in the old Kentucky Theater is a deli and gourmet grocery. Behind the circular bar is the serene dining room, with a central hearth, and beyond that, a large enclosed patio. Chef Dallas McGarity’s seasonal menu cleverly fuses culinary concepts: crawfish arancini, duck confit ragout and curry-seared scallops, for instance. $$ L D hpf MUSSEL & BURGER BAR 9200 Taylorsville Rd., 3844834. Guaca Mole’s Fernando Martinez and his wife and cousin continue to stretch their ambitions and imaginations with an affordable “American bistro

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concept” featuring six different mussels dishes sauced with things like meunier, sofrito, marina, curry and Greek style. There are 12 clever twists on burgers with the pattys ground fresh daily from a mix of top sirloin, brisket and short rib. Located in a strip mall just beyond the Hurstbourne Lane -Taylorsville Road intersection, it is worth seeking out, both for the food this talented crew presents, and for the comfy bistro atmosphere created in the cavernous space tricked out by former owners. L D hpe NORTH END CAFÉ 1722 Frankfort Ave., 896-8770, 2116 Bardstown Rd., 690-4161. Now with a second location in Douglass Loop, folks in the Highlands, as well as Clifton, can enjoy North End’s hearty and unusual breakfast, or satisfying lunches and dinners. With an eclectic menu of diverse tapas and interesting entrées, it’s an appealing, affordable place to dine. $$ B Br L D hpfe OLD 502 WINERY 122 S. Tenth St., 540-5650. Watch the winemakers craft 10 varieties of wine from Kentucky-grown grapes and imported juices as you enjoy lunch or dinner in this upscale-casual eatery just west of downtown. The winery serves a full bar-style menu. $$ L D he RAMSI’S CAFÉ ON THE WORLD 1293 Bardstown Rd., 451-0700. The beating bohemian heart of the Highlands. Ramsi Kamar brings a wonderfully eclectic spirit to the environment and to his menu. Cuban. Jamaican. Greek. Middle Eastern. Moderate prices, a weekend brunch and late night hours add to the draw. $$ L D hpf RELISH 1346 River Rd., 587-7007. After a long hiatus from the restaurant biz, former Jack Fry’s and La Paloma owner, Susan Seiller, has opened this small, 50-seat lunch and takeout place focusing on “healthy, clean cuisine.” After cooking for her father following a heart attack, Seiler was inspired to create a restaurant serving healthful foods with lots of flavor. Takeout will be available only to customers with pre-paid accounts and who order their food online for pickup. $$ L f

RIVER CITY WINERY 321 Pearl St., New Albany IN, 945-9463. Ten of owners Gary and Melissa Humphrey’s wines medaled in the June 2011 Indy International Wine Competition. Their honest, straightforward wines and Italian-inspired menu, featuring brink-oven pizzas, draw appreciative crowds. Don’t miss the crab cakes with black-eyed pea salsa. $$ Br L D e THE SILVER DOLLAR 1761 Frankfort Ave., 259-9540. The old firehouse in Clifton is now a honky tonk bar and restaurant, the music (all on vinyl) focused on the “Bakersfield sound” — a fusion of Mexicali and American roots music. The southern country-style menu with sophisticated nuances has been an immediate hit. Choose from more than 80 Kentucky Bourbons, ryes, tequila and mescal, but no “foreign whiskey” like Scotch or vodka. $$ Br L D hpf VILLAGE ANCHOR PUB & ROOST 11507 Park Rd., 708-1850. In the heart of Anchorage at the old train station is this two-level Euro-village inspired concept. On the upper level, a French bistro a la Moulin Rouge with an outdoor terrace. Downstairs at The Sea Hag the ambience is a British pub. The hearty upscale comfort food-style menu is served lunch and dinner with weekend brunch. A short, well-selected wine list and ambitious beer list with more than 50 craft and import choices accompany 55 Bourbons to boot. $$$ Br L D hpf

ALLEY CAT CAFÉ 11804 Shelbyville Rd., 245-6544. This suburban Alley Cat is a cozy and bright little place, and the lunch-only menu is affordable and appealing. $ L THE ANCHORAGE CAFÉ 11505 Park Rd., 708-1880. It started as a suburban coffee bar and café offering continental breakfasts and sandwiches. But in no time Anchorage Café has morphed into a premium bakery and Anchorage-area go-to spot for eclectic,

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farm-to-table meals at lunch and dinner. And it still offers excellent espresso. $ B Br L D f AROMA CAFÉ Horseshoe Casino Hotel, Elizabeth IN, 888-766-2648. Grab a bite before hitting the casino. Sandwiches, salads, sides, cold beverages and coffee will fuel you for a night of entertainment. $ B L D hp

old

BLUE DOG BAKERY AND CAFÉ 2868 Frankfort Ave., 899-9800. Tables are always at a premium at this popular Crescent Hill breakfast and lunch spot. And its artisanal bakery continues to produce hearty European-style breads that have set a gold standard on restaurant tables and in better grocery stores around town. $$ B L f BLUEGRASS CAFÉ 3819 Bardstown Rd., 459-2320. This little lunch spot in the Derby City Antique Mall in Buechel has a daily hot table buffet line plus a menu of soups, salads and sandwiches. On Sundays it offers a brunch buffet with a choice of breakfast and luncheon dishes. $ Br L BOOMER’S CAFÉ 722 W. Main St., 585-4356. In the midst of the booming West Main Street arts and museum district, this lunch spot offers standard American café fare. $ L BUTTERFLY GARDEN CAFÉ 1327 Bardstown Rd., 456-4500. This long-time ladies’ lunch favorite, in an attractive old house on Bardstown Road, offers interesting, pleasant lunch fare, with very appealing dessert choices. $$ L

502 winery et a glimpse of wine making, while enjoying a glass of wine.

CAFÉ FRAICHE 3642 Brownsboro Rd., 894-8929. Cuisine from around the world is featured at this East End neighborhood café, featuring homemade soups, breads and a variety of entrées on a seasonally changing menu. $ B L

Located on 10th Street between Main and Market Mon – Sat: 11am – 11pm 122 South 10th Street, Louisville, KY

CAFÉ MONTAGU 1930 Bishop Ln., 451-6357. This breakfast and lunch place provides breakfasts and lunches mainly to the denizens of the Watterson Towers office complex. Home-style cooking, daily specials (meatloaf, pastas) and quick service keep the wheels of business rolling. $ B L

(502) 540-5650

CHEDDAR BOX CAFÉ 12121 Shelbyville Rd., 2452622. An attractive — and busy — Middletown lunch spot, owner Michelle Bartholmew serves popular salads, sandwiches and soups, as well as hot entrées such as potato-chip-crusted whitefish, specialty pizzas, and lemon-tarragon chicken with orzo. Pick up some frozen appetizers for your next cocktail party. $ L D f CITY CAFÉ 505 W. Broadway, 589-1797, 500 S. Preston St., 852-5739. Chef Jim Henry, a long-time star in the city’s culinary firmament, brings his cooking skills and insistence on fresh, quality ingredients to these simple, but excellent, spots for lunch. $ L CRAVE CAFÉ & CATERING 2250 Frankfort Ave., 896-1488. Experienced caterers and chefs offer casual but quality café fare in this comfortable old frame house in Clifton. $$ L D CREEKSIDE OUTPOST & CAFÉ 614 Hausfeldt Ln., New Albany IN, 948-9118. The Creekside Outpost warps customers back into the days of general stores and maintains every bit of old fashioned charm. Serving up buffalo, elk and surprisingly good burgers. Exotic foods including Shinnecock ice fish, black bear, ostrich and kangaroo (when available) round out an excellent, traveled menu. $$ B L f CRICKET’S CAFÉ 7613 Old Hwy. 60, Sellersburg IN, 246-9339. Offering breakfasts and lunch to local Hoosiers and travelers who take exit 7 off I-65. Full breakfasts, omelets, and breakfast sandwiches. A full range of standard lunch sandwiches, with Reubens, Philly steak and cheese, and daily specials. Homemade soups and salads, too. $ B Br L f DERBY CAFÉ 704 Central Ave., (Kentucky Derby Museum) 634-0858. Lunch served year-round in the dining area adjacent to the Derby Museum with such regional favorites as meaty burgoo, and the Hot Brown. $ L pf

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EARTH FRIENDS CAFÉ AND COFFEE BAR 829 E. Market St., 180 W. Spring St., New Albany IN, 9494430. Vegetarians and vegans can find a lot to love here in the sandwich, salad and soup sections of the menu, but they will have to co-exist with carnivores. The menu insists, though, that “all meats [are] produced from humanely raised, grass-fed animals and are produced without added hormones.” $ B Br L ERMIN’S BAKERY & CAFÉ 1201 S. First St., 6356960, 455 S. Fourth St., (Starks Bldg.) 585-5120. These popular bakeries attract crowds looking for an enjoyable soup and sandwich lunch highlighted by French-style breads and pastries. $ B L HIGHLAND MORNING 1416 Bardstown Rd., 3653900. You can order breakfast anytime at this Highlands space, with an eclectic menu that also encompasses brunch, burgers, soul food, Southern dishes and vegetarian fare as well. $ B L D h J. GRAHAM’S CAFÉ & BAR 335 W. Broadway (The Brown Hotel), 583-1234. The home of the legendary “Hot Brown” sandwich, J. Graham’s offers a more casual bistro-style alter na tive to the upscale English Grill, with choice of menu service or buffet dining. $$ B L pf

walled patio. Choose from an eclectic breakfast and lunch menu, including old favorites like tomato dill soup and chicken salad. Or eat inside and be amused at the yard-sale look of mismatched furniture and chandeliers and doorways to nowhere, reminiscent of its former location in an antique mall. $ B Br L f THE CHEDDAR BOX 3909 Chenoweth Sq., 893-2324. For more than 25 years this St. Matthews tradition has delighted ladies who lunch, hungry students who munch, and just about everyone else with their sandwiches, pasta salads and tasty desserts. It caters parties with almost 50 choices of appetizers, party sandwiches, dips, cheese rings and crostini. $ L f THE CHEDDAR BOX TOO 109 Chenoweth Ln., 8961133. Cheddar Box owner Nancy Tarrant has extended her presence with a café just across the parking lot. Look for the same tasty salads, soups and desserts that have made her take-away business so popular. $BL

FISH-FRY HOUSE 2280 Bardstown Rd., 632-2583. The owners of Sharom’s and Zaytun have opened a new fish house, serving up the crisp, fresh fried seafood that made Sharom’s an Okolona favorite. $$ L D hp

MERIDIAN CAFÉ 112 Meridian Ave., 897-9703. This little lunch spot occupies a cozy old house in St. Matthews. Service is competent and polite, the place is sparkling clean, and the luncheon-style fare is consistently fine. A selection of appetizing breakfast items rounds out a tasty mix. $ B L D f

THE FISH HOUSE 1310 Winter Ave., 568-2993. Louisville is as overflowing as a well-stocked lake with fish-sandwich houses, and The Fish House is right up there with the best. Crisp breading laced with black pepper is the signature of Green River fried fish from Western Kentucky. $ Br L D f

NONNIE’S KITCHEN 11601 Main St., Middletown, 245-4411. Picturesque downtown Middletown needs pleasant places for ladies to lunch, and Nonnie’s Kitchen now occupies the space that once housed Tiffany Cellars Café. A mother-son team from Chicago has hit the ground running, with a menu of soups, salads, sandwiches and desserts that have delighted early adopters. $ L f

RIVERSIDE CAFÉ 700 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN (Sheraton Hotel), 284-6711. The breakfast room and bar of the Sheraton Riverside. Breakfast served until 10:30 a.m. Unwind at the bar at night. $$ B pf SHERRY’S CORNER CAFÉ 1051 Market St., Charlestown IN, 256-3722. Breakfast and lunch are served at this archetypical family eatery specializing in fresh, home-style cooking. $ L STRICKER’S CAFÉ 2781 Jefferson Centre Way, Jeffersonville IN, 218-9882. Family style restaurant serving hearty soups, salads, sandwiches, burgers, melts and breakfast too, in suburban Jeffersonville. $ B L TAKE OUT TO THE RIVER 9550 US Hwy. 42, 3652605. $ L D THE CAFÉ 712 Brent St., 637-6869. You can see the traffic on East Broadway from The Café’s serene 64 Spring 2013 www.foodanddine.com

CHARLESTOWN TRAIN STATION SEAFOOD 1041 Highway 62, Charlestown IN, 256-4200. A family friendly place with outdoor picnic-table seating and the kind of familiar fried fillets everyone likes. $ L D pf

EAGLE LAKE & RESTAURANT 7208 Whipple Rd., 937-7658. If you like to fish, or if you like to eat fish, you’ll likely enjoy Eagle Lake, a simple, downhome eatery in Southwestern Jefferson County. Seafood is the specialty. Fishermen will enjoy their stocked pay-to-fish lake. Note though, it’s not possible to have your catch fried for dinner. $$ L D f

KAYROUZ CAFÉ 3801 Willis Ave., 896-2630. Tucked in among St. Matthews sidestreets is one of the best sandwich places in Louisville. The tuna salad, Portobello mushroom Reuben, fish, chicken and hamburger — all are innovative and all come with some of the best fries in town. $ L D f

QUEUE CAFÉ 220 W. Main St. (LG&E Building), 583-0273. $ B L f

BONEFISH GRILL 657 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 4124666. This franchise concept from the Floridabased Outback Steakhouse chain offers impressive seafood in a comfortable setting. Add Bonefish to your short list of suburban chain eateries that do the job right. $$$ D hp

CLARKSVILLE SEAFOOD 916 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville IN, 283-8588. As the only surviving descendant of Louisville’s old Cape Codder chain, Clarksville Seafood upholds a long and honorable tradition. The menu is simple — fried fish and fried seafood, served on paper trays — but it is consistently excellent and affordable. And now open until 8 p.m. most nights. $ L D

JAMBA JUICE 320 S. Fourth St., 581-0066. A national chain known best for its silky-frosty fruit smoothies, some of which are health focused (the carrot juice and orange-berry anti-oxidant blend is one example), Jamba has added some basic breakfast (oatmeal, wraps) and lunch items (flatbread pizza and toasted sandwiches) to broaden its appeal. $ L D

ORANGE CLOVER KITCHEN & MORE 590 Missouri Ave., Jeffersonville IN, 282-1005. Find quick breakfast and lunch items here, such as the Orange Clover muffin: poppy seed and blood orange flavors with a blood orange drizzle, as well as a cupcake version with cranberries. Two soup specials offered every day out of a recipe rotation of 75 possibilities won’t result in many repeats. $ B L

ZIALALA CAFÉ 12220 Shelbyville Rd., 713-5803. The owners, of Venezuelan and Italian backgrounds, tout their Middletown eatery as a “Latin café with a European flair.” The eclectic menu includes arepas, pizzettes (individual thin-crust pizzas), muffuletta, egg salad sandwiches, panini and empanadas with Chilean, Puerto Rican and Jamaican flavors. $ L D f

THE FISHERY 3624 Lexington Rd., 895-1188, 11519 Shelbyville Rd., 409-4296. The original fried-fish eatery in a neighborhood that’s now awash with them, The Fishery remains justly popular for its quick, sizzling hot and affordable fish and seafood meals. $ L D f FISHERY STATION 5610 Outer Loop, 968-8363. $$ LD

VERBENA CAFÉ 10639 Meeting St., 425-0020. This Norton Commons eatery is open early for breakfast and serves hearty lunches till midafternoon, but you can order breakfast or lunch at any of those hours. $$ B L f WILD EGGS 3985 Dutchmans Ln., 893-8005, 1311 Herr Ln., 618-2866, 153 S. English Station Rd., 6183449. Specialty omelets, the everything muffin, spicy egg salad sandwiches — these dishes and more have made Wild Eggs a wildly popular breakfast and lunch spot. Prized seats at weekend brunch can now be found at this growing mini-chain’s third outlet. $ B Br L p WOLFGANG PUCK EXPRESS 221 S. Fourth St., 562-0983. Bearing the name of the celeb rity Austrian chef, this downtown lunch spot in the corner of the convention center offers tasty wraps, sandwiches and soups. $$ L YAFA CAFÉ 22 Theater Sq., 561-0222. $ L D

HILL STREET FISH FRY 111 E. Hill St., 636-3474. This Old Louisville tradition is small and easy to miss, but it’s worth the effort to get by. It’s oversized fried whitefish sandwich is the flagship dish, but a varied menu is also available. $ L D f JACKSON’S SEAFOOD 400 W. Main St., New Albany IN, 945-3474. Joe Jackson, 13-year veteran of locallyfamed Clarksville Seafood, serves up fried, broiled or blackened fish, and rolled oysters. Fans of Jackson’s former employer will find many similarities in the food, but offered with customer-friendly service and rational, predictable hours. $ L D JOE’S CRAB SHACK 131 River Rd., 568-1171. The setting on the edge of Riverfront Park is bright, noisy and fun, with a wraparound deck providing a panoramic river view. $$ L D hpf KINGFISH RESTAURANT 3021 Upper River Rd., 895-0544, 1610 Kentucky Mills Dr., 240-0700, 601 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 284-3474. Fried fish in a family dining setting has made this local chain a popular favorite for many years. Two of its properties — upper River Road and Riverside Drive — boast river views. $$ L D hpfe

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MIKE LINNIG’S 9308 Cane Run Rd., 937-9888. Mike Linnig’s has been dishing up tasty fried fish and seafood at family prices since 1925 and remains immensely popular. There’s indoor seating and a bar, but the picnic grove with its giant shade trees makes Linnig’s a special place in season. Out of season — Nov. to Jan. — the family shutters the place and takes a nice vacation. $ L D f MITCHELL’S FISH MARKET 4031 Summit Plaza Dr., 412-1818. The decor of this upscale eatery evokes the feeling of a large fish market, with an open kitchen that offers views of chefs at work. Quality seafood and service have made Mitchell’s a popular destination. $$$ L D hpf PASSTIME FISH HOUSE 10801 Locust Rd., 267-4633. If you are looking for an honest fish sandwich and a cold beer or two, with no frills, this southside tavern is just the ticket. Belly up, place your order, and be sure to have cash — no credit cards accepted here. $$ L D fe

Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN. 284-5800, 4813 Outer Loop, 969-9790 . Oversize steaks and a “big sky” western theme are the draw at this chain eatery, although most of its properties are east of the Mississippi. $$ L D hp MORTON’S 626 W. Main St., 584-0421. This belowground temple to the red meat gods is elegant and masculine, full of wood paneling, brass rails and leather booths. Louisville reveres its home-grown restaurants but has welcomed this Chicago-based chain with open mouths. $$$$ D hp OUTBACK STEAK HOUSE 4621 Shelbyville Rd., 8954329, 6520 Signature Dr., 964-8383, 9498 Brownsboro Rd., 426-4329, 8101 Bardstown Rd., 231-2399, 1420 Park Place, Clarksville IN, 283-4329. The name suggests Australia, and so does the shtick at this popular national chain, but the food is pretty much familiar American, and the fare goes beyond just steak to take in chicken, seafood and pasta. $$$ D hp

RYAN’S FAMILY STEAKHOUSE 5338 Bardstown Rd., 491-1088. This North Carolina-based chain offers family dining with good variety: Its diverse and extensive buffet features more than 150 items. $$ L D THE ST. CHARLES EXCHANGE 113 S. Seventh St., 618-1917. Two Philadelphia restaurateurs have brought this new upscale eatery and cocktail lounge, upstairs in the same building Morton’s steakhouse. The menu turns back the clock to early 1900s style food — dishes like crab Louie, shrimp cocktail, steak Diane, and coq au vin, with a “highlevel” cocktail program. $$$$ D hp STONEY RIVER LEGENDARY STEAK 3900 Summit Plaza Dr., 429-8944. Stoney River in the Springhurst shopping center is one of the chain’s first properties outside its Georgia home. It draws big crowds with its memorable steaks and trimmings, with extra points for friendly service and a comfortable atmosphere. $$$$ D hp

RUMORS RESTAURANT & RAW BAR 12339 Shelbyville Rd., 245-0366. Visualize Hooter’s without the scantily-clad waitresses, and you’ve drawn a bead on Rumor’s, the original Louisville home of the bucketof-oysters and impressive raw bar. $$ L D hpf

CAST IRON STEAKHOUSE 1207 E. Market St., Jeffersonville IN, 590-2298, 6325 River Rd., 3847466. Buck’s owner Curtis Rader’s idea to cook steaks and sides in cast iron pans at moderate prices hit such a popular nerve that he opened two more locations on the Kentucky side of the river. The ambience of all his places is upscale with “no peanuts on the floor, antlers on the wall or country music,” Rader promises. $$$ D hpf CATTLEMAN’S ROADHOUSE 2001 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 384-7623, 139 Historical Trail, 543-3574. The small chain that’s grown up around Louisville is now here. In addition to the mid-priced beef offerings look for starters such as fried pickle chips and jalapeno poppers, grilled chicken and salmon and plenty of sandwich choices. $$$ L D hp DEL FRISCO’S 4107 Oechsli Ave., 897-7077. Loyal Louisville beefeaters continue to fill up this 28year-old St. Matthews steakhouse, with its brick walls and beamed ceilings. Any red meat enthusiast would know to order the filet or Porterhouse, but only regulars know the glories of something called green phunque. $$$$ D hp EDDIE MERLOT’S PRIME AGED BEEF 455 S. Fourth St., (Fourth Street Live) 584-3266. The sumptuous renovation of the space at the corner of Fourth and Muhammad Ali has resulted in one of the largest dining spaces in town. The Ft. Wayne-based small chain with big ambitions boasts glittering mosaic artwork, a handsome bar opening onto Fourth Street, and luxurious seating in secluded nooks and corners. The menu focuses on high end steaks, well prepared seafood and seasonal specials. $$$$ L D hpe JEFF RUBY’S STEAKHOUSE 325 W. Main St., 5840102. This Cincinnati restaurateur has made an impact in Louisville with his outstanding steaks, glittery bar, urban vibe and top-notch service. The rooms have Churchill Downs themes. The steaks take the rail with seafood and sushi coming up fast on the outside. $$$$ D hpe LOGAN’S ROADHOUSE 5055 Shelbyville Rd., 8933884, 5229 Dixie Hwy., 448-0577, 970 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 288-9789, 1540 Alliant Ave., 266-6009. With more than 100 properties in 17 states, this Nashville-based chain parlays peanut shells on the floor and steaks on the table into a popular formula. $$ L D hp LONGHORN STEAKHOUSE 2535 Hurstbourne Gem Ln., 671-5350, 9700 Von Allmen Ct., 326-7500, 1210

PAT’S STEAK HOUSE 2437 Brownsboro Rd., 8969234. A local favorite for fifty years and as traditional as a steakhouse gets, Pat Francis, like his father before him, cuts the meats himself. Its combination of quality beef and hospitality rank it among the best steak houses in town. The big news at Pat’s: credit cards now accepted! $$$$ D pf PONDEROSA STEAKHOUSE 11470 S. Preston Hwy., 964-6117. Family-style dining with the ranch theme kept alive with the open flame from the grills. An extensive buffet with hot and cold foods, salads and desserts is also available. $ L D RUTH’S CHRIS STEAKHOUSE 6100 Dutchman’s Ln., 479-0026. The Robb Report magazine has declared Rolex the world’s best watch, Armani the best men’s suit, Cohiba the best cigar and Ruth’s Chris the best restaurant. It serves an excellent steak in an atmosphere of elegance that will make you feel pampered, at a price to match. $$$$ D hpe

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TEXAS ROADHOUSE 757 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy. (Green Tree Mall), Clarksville IN, 280-1103, 4406 Dixie Hwy., 448-0705, 6460 Dutchmans Pkwy., 897-5005, 3322 Outer Loop, 962-7600. The spirit of the West sets the theme for this popular steak house. Salads, vegetables and breads with hearty side dishes round out your meal options. This is family-style dining, with no tray sliding — service at your table. $$ L D hp

A NICE RESTAURANT 3129 Blackiston Mill Rd., New Albany IN, 945-4321, 2784 Meijer Dr., 280-9160, Jeffersonville IN, 280-9160. 404 Lafollette Station, Floyds Knobs IN, 923-7770. A Nice Restaurant, billed as “New Albany’s Finer Diner,” is, well, nice enough to have launched two more branches. All specialize in simple, down-home breakfast and lunch at affordable prices. $ B L www.facebook.com/foodanddine Spring 2013 65

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APPLEBEE’S (6 locations) This cheery national chain features an eclectic assortment of salads, steaks, ribs, poultry and pasta as well as full bar service. It’s as consistent as a cookie cutter, but competent execution makes it a good bargain for those whose tastes run to mainstream American cuisine. $$ L D hp

CHILI’S 421 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 425-6800, 3623 Bardstown Rd., 301-8888, 11600 Antonia Way, 3018181, 9720 Von Allmen Ct., 301-8880. More than just a place to chow down on baby back ribs, this national chain has a wide selection including fajitas, burgers, sandwiches and veggies. $$ L D hp

ASPEN CREEK RESTAURANT 8000 Bardstown Rd., 239-2200. The entrepreneur who created Texas Roadhouse and Buckhead’s is back with a concept that’s both old and new — a lodge-style restaurant that invokes the rustic feel of the Rockies, and offers a menu of pastas, burgers, and poultry at prices that aren’t mountain high. $$ L D hp

CHOP SHOP SALADS 436 W. Market St., 589-2467, 126 Breckinridge Ln., 384-4252. The two-handed mezzalunas rock steady as the line cooks chop up lettuce, vegetables and meats into hearty salads or wraps. Mostly a to-go place with limited seating, the steady lunchtime crowds attest that office workers see a need for fresh light lunch fare. $ L D

B.J.’S RESTAURANT & BREWHOUSE 7900 Shelbyville Rd.(Oxmoor Mall), 326-3850. This Southern California chain arrived east of the Mississippi, including a large and imposing brewhouse at Oxmoor Mall. A full range of made-in-Nevada craft beers is dispensed, along with upscale-casual pub grub. $$ L D hp

COACH LAMP RESTAURANT 751 Vine St., 5839165. The restored 137-year-old building has gone through some remodeling this winter, and Jerome Pope, 10 year veteran of The Brown Hotel, has returned with a revamped menu. He is serving up modern American fare, things like house-made soups, braised rabbit, and a sizzling chicken dish. $$$ L D pf

BLUE HORSE CAFÉ 830 Phillips Ln., (Crown Plaza Hotel) 367-2251. $$$ L D hp BLUEGRASS BURGERS 3334 Frankfort Ave., 6146567. Four women restaurateurs have partnered to offer a gourmet burger concept. Choose your burger — grass-fed Kentucky beef or bison, tuna or veggie (or grilled chicken, cheese steak or franks) — and then head for the topping bar. $ L D f

FLABBY’S SCHNITZELBURG 1101 Lydia St., 290-7273. Since 1952, serving up rolled oysters, German comfort food and fried chicken to Germantown residents and fans from far and wide. Where else can you find limburger and braunsweiger with onions on rye and Warsteiner on draft? $ D f

GRADY’S BURGERS AND WINGS 3825 Taylor Blvd., 361-1106. The name says most of what you need to know. Ten flavors of wings, breaded, fried and sauced. The hot wings and the honey BBQ are the biggest sellers. Deli sandwiches and gyros too. $ L D f

CAFÉ MAGNOLIA 140 N. Fourth St. (Galt House), 589-5200. The Galt House’s quick and casual secondfloor dining alternative, this spacious venue offers a range of fare for guests on the go, from bacon and eggs to a late-night burger and fries. $$$ L D hp

GREEN LEAF NATURAL VEGETARIAN BISTRO 309 W. Cardinal Blvd., 637-5887. Green Leaf serves up vegetarian fare in the new town center of University of Louisville. The menu has a pan-Asian focus, with noodles and fried rice and stir fries, as well as smoothies and bubble tea. $ L D

CAPTAIN’S QUARTERS 5700 Captain’s Quarters Rd., 228-1651. One of the city’s most attractive eateries for atmosphere, Captain’s Quarters matches the beautiful setting with quality bistro-style fare that won’t disappoint. Summer or winter, it’s a delightful place to dine. $$ Br L D pfe

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FIVE GUYS BURGERS & FRIES 2221 State Street, New Albany IN, 944-9958, 4116 Summit Plaza Dr., 426-1702. Based in Virginia, this burger chain invokes the early days of fast food with freshly-grilled burgers, big, smoky Kosher dogs, enough condiments to satisfy any craving, fresh-cut fries that are out of this world and a cheery rock’n’roll sensibility. $ L D

GOOSE CREEK DINER 2923 Goose Creek Rd., 3398070. Goose Creek Diner offers old-fashioned comfort food, as the name “diner” suggests, but transcendently adds a gourmet taste to the down-home eats. $ B Br L D

BUNZ RESTAURANT 969 1/2 Baxter Ave., 632-1132. This little Highlands made-to-order gourmet hamburger shop concocts quality burgers with a range of standard and oddball toppings. $ L D hf

CHEDDAR’S CASUAL CAFÉ 10403 Westport Rd., 339-5400, 3521 Outer Loop, 966-3345, 1385 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 280-9660. This popular Dallas-based chain draws big, hungry crowds with its large bar and familiar “casual to upscale American” fare. $ L D hpf

FAMOUS MIKE’S STEAK & LEMONADE 3052 Wilson Ave., 618-0102. At first a curious culinary combination — steak and lemonade — but this little nearWest End place is a gem offering an eclectic range of quick comfort foods: chicken gizzard baskets, pizza rolls, cheese steaks, burgers and subs. $ L D h

GAVI’S RESTAURANT 222 S. Seventh St., 583-8183. This family-owned eatery has been around for decades. Standard casual American cuisine adds a few Russian-style specialties such as homemade borsht soup and beef Stroganoff. Daily lunch specials include lots of fresh vegetable dishes. $ B L

BUCKHEAD MOUNTAIN GRILL 3020 Bardstown Rd., 456-6680, 707 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 284-2919, 10206 Westport Rd., 339-0808. The deck of the riverfront location in Jeffersonville, with its view across the river, is a great place for a lazy summer meal, when the familiarity of allAmerican fare like meat loaf, pot pies, steak or ribs and a couple of cold ones is all you want. The big square bars in all three locations, with multiple TV screens, make for excellent sports viewing as well. $$ L D hpf

CHAMPIONS GRILL 505 Marriott Dr. (Holiday Inn), Clarksville IN. 283-4411. Known by locals for its Saturday night buffet of New York strip, ribeye and prime rib. Salads, sandwiches, soups and a kid-friendly menu round out the selection. $$ B Br L D pe

EDESIA GARDENS 10212 Taylorsville Rd., 263-7100. Named after the Roman goddess of gourmet foods, this banquet and events space also offers a Sunday brunch buffet to the public. $$ Br

GARAGE BAR 700 E. Market St., 749-7100. Housed in a former service station in NuLu, Garage Bar serves up draft and bottled craft beers, Bourbons, seasonal cocktails and wine, pizzas from a woodfired brick oven and Southern specialties, with an emphasis on fresh, local ingredients. The ham flight is not to be missed. $$$ D hpf

BRICKHOUSE TAVERN & TAP 871 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 326-3182. The Brickhouse Girls, wearing tight black baby Ts and denim minis, serve typical bar food, beer and ale and cocktails, and encourage patrons to play beer pong. This has to be a winning corporate concept, don’t you think? $$ L D hpf

CARDINAL HALL OF FAME CAFÉ 2745 Crittenden Dr., 635-8686. This oversize eatery at Gate 4 of the Kentucky Fair & Exposition Center celebrates U of L sports with a “walk of fame” loaded with awards, photos, game balls and lots more Cardinal memorabilia. What? You want food too? Sure! Casual American dining features everything from a “Cardinal Burger” to steaks and prime rib. $ L D hp

and desserts, as well as salads at affordable prices. No “sliders” here, but comparable prices. $ L D h

CULVER’S 4630 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 671-2001. When the trademark item is called a “ButterBurger” and frozen custard tops the dessert menu, you know you’re not in for diet fare. Quality fast food and friendly service make this chain a popular East End spot. $ L D f CUNNINGHAM’S 630 S. Fourth St., 587-0526, 6301 Upper River Rd., 228-3625. Carrying on into its third century in modern quarters that capture much of the nostalgia of its history, Cunningham’s vends fine fish sandwiches and pub grub in this downtown location and in a second eatery on Harrods Creek. $ Br L D hpf DECKERS GRILLED SANDWICHES 2350 Greene Way, 491-3114. A burgeoning chain launched by White Castle sells hot soups, pressed sandwiches (the four cheese and bacon Decker sounds great)

HOME RUN BURGERS & FRIES 2060 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 409-7004, 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 365-3388, 12949 Shelbyville Rd., 384-8403, 303 W. Cardinal Blvd., 708-1818. Burgers, dogs and fries and drinks with a baseball theme highlight this suburban spot, and more than 20 toppings offer you a fielder’s choice of options to dress your burger. $ L D f HOOTERS 4120 Dutchmans Ln., 895-7100, 4948 Dixie Hwy., 449-4194, 7701 Preston Hwy., 968-1606, 700 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 218-9485, 941 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 284-9464. Hooter’s may draw crowds with its long-standing reputation as a party scene, but you’ll stay for the food, an appetizing selection of soups, salads, seafood and, of course, wings. $ L D hpfe INTERNATIONAL HOUSE OF PANCAKES 1220 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN. 285-1772, 1401 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 618-2250. IHOP fans can choose to go out to the East End or across the river to satisfy their jones for the national chain’s inimitable food. $ B L D h JOE’S OLDER THAN DIRT 8131 New Lagrange Rd., 426-2074. Going strong after many years in this

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

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Lyndon location, Joe’s has gradually grown from a little house to a sprawling complex of indoor and outdoor tables with live music many evenings. Excellent barbecue is a specialty, and so is ice-cold beer. $ L D hpfe KAREM’S 9424 Norton Commons Blvd., 327-5646. Karem’s Grill & Pub, one of the first restaurants to open in the village-like Norton Commons, carries the look and feel of a neighborhood watering hole inside and out. The test of a restaurant, though, is the food, and Karem’s is excellent. $$ L D h KERN’S KORNER 2600 Bardstown Rd., 456-9726. This family-owned tavern has been a popular neighborhood pit stop since 1978. Kern’s offers freshly made ham, chicken salad sandwiches and burgers, as well as a menu of soups, chilis and appetizers. $ L D pf LEGENDS Horseshoe Casino Hotel, Elizabeth IN, 888-766-2648. The hot and cold short orders are served up with riverboat hospitality, but in a Las Vegas atmosphere. A well stocked bar and a live stage welcome the best of regional and visiting national acts. $$ L D hpe

cookbooks, cookware and her new furniture line. $$$$ B Br L D PEPPERS BAR & GRILL 320 W. Jefferson St., (Hyatt Regency) 587-3434. This newly renovated casualdining facility in the Hyatt Regency offers a full dinner menu for hotel guests and outside visitors as well. $$ D hp RAFFERTY’S OF LOUISVILLE 988 Breckenridge Ln., 897-3900. 3601 Springhurst Blvd., 412-9000. This full-service, casual dining establishment has a hearty menu. Specialties like Red Alfredo Pasta showcase the gourmet offerings along with some of the largest and most creative salad combinations in town. $$ L D hpf RAISING CANE’S 10490 Westport Rd., 425-4040. A national chain with a single core product — chicken fingers. This replacement for the old Twister’s Custard brings simple and straightforward fried chicken fingers combos and sandwiches with slaw and fries on the side. $ L D f

600 international properties and 30,000 employees can stand up with pride. They’ve been upholding the slogan “Awesome Food. Serious Salad Bar” in Louisville for a generation. $$ L D hp THE RUDYARD KIPLING 422 W. Oak St., 636-1311. The word “eclectic” fits this Old Louisville eatery in just about every dimension, from its funky decor to its diverse bill of fare, not to mention an array of entertainment that bridges the generations from Generation X’ers to aging hippies. The owners are scaling back, though, and opening only on Fridays and Saturdays. $ D hp SAM’S FOOD & SPIRITS 3800 Payne Kohler Rd., Clarksville IN, 945-9757, 702 Highlander Point Dr., Floyds Knobs IN, 923-2323. Sam Anderson has been running his popular Southern Indiana institution for over 17 years now, feeding an army of happy diners. You’ll find his extensive and child friendly menu at a second location in Floyds Knobs. $$ L D hp

MANHATTAN GRILL 429 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 561-0024. $ B L MIMI’S CAFÉ 615 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 426-6588. This California chain, a subsidiary of Bob Evans, goes urban and upscale where farmer Bob is folksy and country. This East End outlet has developed a following beyond those familiar with it from other locations. $$ B Br L D hpf THE MONKEY WRENCH 1025 Barret Ave., 582-2433. A popular spot in the urban neighborhood where the Highlands meet Germantown, The Monkey Wrench offers comfort food with a stylish spin, top flight music, a relaxed ambience and welcoming service. A rooftop patio packs them in on warm evenings. $ L D hpfe MULLIGAN’S PUB AND GRILL 1801 Newburg Rd., 632-2818. Neighborhood institution Kaelin’s is gone, but Mulligans’ now holds down the fort. Although the “If you can’t stop, please wave sign” is still outside, inside, wood-paneled walls, a new horseshoeshaped bar and vintage wooden golf clubs show that a new game is afoot. The beer list now includes BBC craft beers and Irish imports. The menu is geared toward hearty sandwiches, pizza and steak and shrimp entrées. $$ L D hpf NEIL & PATTY’S FIRESIDE BAR & GRILL 7611 IN 311, Sellersburg IN, 246-5456. A family owned and operated outpost up the road a piece, long known for their warm and welcoming, down-home atmosphere, has expanded their craft beer selection. The local cognoscenti know they can also find excellent pastas, steaks, seafood, and salads. Homemade soups are created daily. Coffee and desserts are always made fresh. Breakfast served until 2 p.m. $$ Br L D p NEW ALBANY ROADHOUSE 1702 Graybrook Rd., New Albany IN, 981-7777. $$ L D hp O’CHARLEY’S (6 locations) O’Charley’s, Inc. could serve well as the picture in the dictionary next to “American casual dining.” The Nashville-based chain operates 206 properties in 16 states in the Southeast and Midwest, serving a straightforward steak-andseafood menu with the motto “Mainstream with an attitude.” $$ Br L D hp OTTO’S CAFÉ 500 S. Fourth St. (Seelbach Hilton Hotel), 585-3201. Southern cooking with gourmet flair makes Otto’s an intriguing alternative to the Seelbach’s more upscale Oakroom. Check out the Southern Breakfast Buffet and Executive Express Lunch Buffet. $$BBr L PAULA DEEN BUFFET Horseshoe Casino Hotel, Elizabeth IN, 888-766-2648. Bubbly Paula extends her food empire to Horseshoe Casino. Modeled after her restaurants, the motif is based on the architecture of Savannah, Ga., where she lives. Of course, there’s a shop attached, where you can purchase aprons,

RED ROBIN GOURMET BURGERS 9870 Von Allmen Ct., 339-8616, 5000 Shelbyville Rd., 899-9001. This Seattle-based chain serves up its well regarded “gourmet burgers” and trimmings in two East End locations. Despite a full bar, it reportedly attracts hordes of happy youngsters. $$ L D hpf ROOSTER’S 7405 Preston Hwy., 964-9464, 4420 Dixie Hwy., 384-0330, 1601 Greentree Blvd., Clarksville IN, 590-3391. This Columbus-based wings-andbrews chain conquered Ohio and is now spreading its franchise wings across the Eastern U.S. Its first three Louisville properties have gained popularity for a lively sports bar setting and oversize wings. $ L D hpf RUBY TUESDAY 11701 Bluegrass Pkwy., 267-7100, 1354 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN. 288-5010. If success demonstrates quality, then Ruby Tuesday’s

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

SHONEY’S 6511 Signature Dr., 969-8904, 9921 Ormsby Station Rd., 423-6388. For nearly 50 years, Shoney’s restaurants have been one of America’s top choices for fast roadside dining, and happily they’ve kept up with the times. $ B L D SKYLINE CHILI 1266 Bardstown Rd., 473-1234, 9980 Linn Station Rd., 429-5773, 4024 Dutchmans Ln., 721-0093, 6801 Dixie Hwy., 937-4020. Louisville’s outposts of a famous Cincinnati chili restaurant, these casual eateries offer the regional favorite (really it’s Greek spaghetti sauce, but keep it quiet) and other fast-food dishes. $ L D h SMASHBURGER 9409 Shelbyville Rd., 326-4141, 312 S. Fourth St., 583-1500. A growing chain located mostly in the West and the South now has two Kentucky locations serving made-to-order Angus beef burgers, and is looking to open up to four more locations. $ L D f www.facebook.com/foodanddine Spring 2013 67

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STEAK N SHAKE 3232 Bardstown Rd., 456-2670, 4913 Dixie Hwy., 448-4400, 4545 Outer Loop, 966-3109, 2717 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-3397, 10721 Fischer Park Dr., 326-3625, 980 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN., 285-1154. One of the oldest fast-food chains in the U.S., Steak N Shake traces its ancestry to an Illinois roadside stand in 1934. It now boasts 400 outlets in 19 states but still sticks to the basics: quality steak burgers and hand-dipped shakes served, if you dine in, on real china. $ B L D h SUPERCHEF’S BREAKFAST 2317 Brownsboro Rd., 8953270, 3941 Chenoweth Sq., 899-5655. Inside Chicago Gyro and The Seafood Connection you will find Sullivan grads Darnell Ferguson and Ryan Bryson offering an ambitious morning menu including beignets and coffee, granola-encrusted French toast, red velvet pancakes and peanut butter and jelly oatmeal. $ B f TACO PUNK 736 E. Market St., 584-8226. Gabe Sowder, formerly of 610 Magnolia, set out on his own serving funky tacos at the Douglass Loop Farmer’s Market. But now the Iron Chef alum (he was part of Edward Lee’s 2010 winning team) has taken over the old Toast on Market space to continue his exploration of everyone’s favorite “Mexican” food. House-made tortillas packed with ingredients ranging from traditional to the unique — duck, lamb and chorizo — make up the bill of fare. $ L D hf

BARBARA LEE’S KITCHEN 2410 Brownsboro Rd., 897-3967. Barbara Lee’s has been a late-night refuge for years. It’s a reliable standby for those in search of traditional blue-plate special lunch food. Honest grub, honestly priced, in a rootsy atmosphere. $ B L D h BIG MOMMA’S SOUL KITCHEN 4532 W. Broadway, 772-9580. Big Momma’s may be the most hospitable place in the West End to get genuine soul food. A different main course is featured daily, all homecooked food, including such goodies as baked chicken, smothered pork chops, meat loaf, catfish … and fried chicken every day. $ L D CHECK’S CAFÉ 1101 E. Burnett Ave., 637-9515. You can whiff a scent of Louisville history coming off the old walls of this quintessential Germantown saloon, along with years of frying grease. The bar food here is about as good as bar food gets, and that’s not bad. The chili and the bean soup are particularly recommended. $ L D pf

FOOD 4 UR SOUL 612 S. Fifth St., 614-6363. The newest incarnation in the corner space at Fifth and Chestnut offers up soulful favorites: fried catfish, rib tips, pork chops (grilled, smothered, or fried), sweet potato casserole, fried mac and cheese, and fried bologna sandwiches. $$ L D

GOLDEN CORRAL 4032 Taylorsville Rd., 485-0004, 8013 Preston Hwy., 966-4970, 1402 Cedar St., Clarksville IN. 258-2540. Buffet style family dining — one price, all you can eat. Steaks are served beginning at 4 p.m. $ B L D GRANNY’S APRON 2605 Rockford Ln., 449-9026. Everything at Granny’s Apron is homemade by owner Jan Bradley, and it tastes that way: Dinner here will remind you of a trip back in time to Grandmother’s house, assuming that Grandmother was a really good cook. $ B L D HAZELWOOD RESTAURANT 4106 Taylor Blvd., 3619104. Whether you like your eggs over easy, or your cheeseburgers well done, you’ll like the Hazelwood Restaurant. Standard short orders cooked with lots of character and a low price. $ B L D

TUCKER’S 2441 State St., New Albany IN, 944-9999. Tucker’s gives you a little bit of everything with a down-to-earth flair, offering burgers, ribs, steaks, a variety of appetizers and pastas. $ L D hp

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DRE’LYNNS SOUL FOOD KITCHEN 5019 Poplar Level Rd., 384-7685. $$ L D

FRONTIER DINER 7299 Dixie Hwy., 271-3663. The name “diner” says it all, and this friendly neighborhood spot on Dixie Highway delivers just what you’d expect in down-home comfort fare. The word on the street, though, is simple: Go for the pancakes. They’re worth a special trip. $ L D

TOAST ON MARKET 620 E. Market St., 569-4099, 141 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 941-8582. This local breakfast and lunch favorite has gained a loyal following and tremendous word-of-mouth, and opened a second outlet across the river. The original NuLu location has moved out of the funky, cavernous old theater building to the former Artemisia a few doors west. $ B Br L pf

ZAXBY’S 2740 Allison Ln., Jeffersonville IN, 920-0080, 807 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 742-8600, 5025 Mud Ln., 632-1400, 2870 Technology Ave., New Albany IN, 725-7484. They have been all around us out in the state, but now Louisville and Southern Indiana have their own Zaxby’s, the casual dining chain that cutens its menu with a lot of “z’s”: zappetizers, zalads, platterz, wings and fingerz — that sort of thing. $ L D h

DAVE & PEG’S COPPER KETTLE 276 Main Cross St., Charlestown IN, 256-4257. $ B L D

FRANCO’S RESTAURANT & CATERING 3300 Dixie Hwy., 448-8044. Long-time fans of Jay’s Cafeteria — including politicians and national entertainers — are no longer bereft. Jay’s former owners serve up Southern Soul food in Shively at family-friendly prices. Look for smothered pork chops, collard greens, fried chicken, fried catfish and fruit cobbler. $ L D

THAT PLACE ON GOSS 946 Goss Ave.,409-5409. Located inside the Antique Mall in the old textile mill, That Place serves hearty and cleverly tweaked lunch fare and Sunday brunch. They are especially fond of their Meaty Jack, a meatloaf sandwich, grilled and topped with Jack cheese and their special sauce. Art on the walls is from friends at Mellwood Art Center, where owners Amy and William Enix initially started. $ Br L

THE WING ZONE 905 Hess Ln., 636-2445. Another wings emporium situated to catch the fancy of U of L fans, Wing Zone excels with jumbo wings in 25 flavors, including traditional Buffalo-style wings that range from Mild to Nuclear. $ L D hf

D’NALLEY’S 970 S. Third St., 588-2003. Dirt-cheap blueplate specials and hearty breakfasts bring droves to this classic greasy spoon. Saturday morning hours are sporadic, but for a quick plate of meat loaf, green beans, and mashed potatoes, D’Nalley’s is a hard place to beat. $ B L D

FORTY ACRES AND A MULE RESTAURANT 1800 Dixie Hwy., 776-5600. $ L D

TGI FRIDAY’S 416 S, Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live), 585-3577. The original place to loosen the tie and congregate after the whistle blows. TGIF carries on its party atmosphere tradition with American bistro dining and libations. The bill of fare ranges from baskets of appetizers on up to contemporary entrées. $$ L D hpf

TWIG & LEAF RESTAURANT 2122 Bardstown Rd., 451-8944. A popular Highlands hangout, the “Twig” is probably at its best for breakfast — whether you’re enjoying it while venturing out on a leisurely Sunday morning or heading home very late on a Saturday night. It’s a place to grab a quick, filling bite, and doesn’t pretend to be more. $ B L D h

COTTAGE INN 570 Eastern Pkwy., 637-4325. Longtime neighborhood fixture Cottage Inn has a bright new look, and continues happily doling out the kind of excellent down-home food it has served for more than 70 years. $ L D

HOMETOWN BUFFET 1700 Alliant Ave., 267-7044, 6641 Dixie Hwy., 995-3320. This chain serves up nostalgic dishes, casseroles, meats and desserts that allow you to set an all-American supper table with the all-you-can eat price tag. $ B L D

THE CHICKEN HOUSE 7180 Hwy. 111, Sellersburg IN, 246-9485. The parking lot of this white frame building in rural Indiana is packed on weekend nights as families from throughout the area wait on delectable fried chicken. This is the very heart of American comfort food, including green beans, dumplings, and mashed potatoes. $$ L D

INDI’S RESTAURANT 1033 W. Broadway, 589-7985, 3820 W. Market St., 778-5154, 2901 Fern Valley Rd., 969-7993, 5009 S. Third St., 363-2535, 2970 Tenth St., Jeffersonville IN, 288-8980, 1085 Market St., Charlestown IN, 256-3780. Grown from a tiny West End takeout spot to a mini-chain, Indi’s vends a variety of affordable soul food and barbecue specialties to take out or eat in. $ L D h KING’S FRIED CHICKEN 1302 Dixie Hwy., 776-3013. $LDh

CHICKEN KING 639 E. Broadway, 589-5464. Spicy, crunchy and sizzling hot fried chicken is the primary draw on a short, affordable menu. $ L D h

KUM’S KAFE 4125 Preston Hwy., 964-6336. Crispy fried chicken and fried catfish, as well as daily Asian specialties. $ L

COTTAGE CAFÉ 11609 Main St., Middletown, 2449497. This nostalgic old house in the countryside offers a taste of Kentucky-style cookery in an array of lunch specials that range from homemade soups and sandwiches to the traditional Hot Brown. $ L

MIKE & MATT’S 2835 Holman Ln., Jeffersonville IN, 590-1565. Good country cooking in the Amish tradition. Fried chicken, of course, but also more interesting dishes such as walleye, elk, quail and frogs’ legs. Real mashed potatoes and made-fromscratch pies a specialty. $$ L D f

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

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MISS C’S KITCHEN & PANTRY 1319 Story Ave., 759-1085, 308 W. Chestnut St., 992-3166. You will find traditional recipes using locally-sourced foods, such as pimento cheese made with Kenny’s white cheddar and tuna salad using the recipe from Stewart’s Orchid Room at both locations. $$ L NANA’S COUNTRY KITCHEN 5300 Cane Run Rd., 384-6525. When you want home-style cooking, you will want it like it is served here. Breakfast all day, lunch and dinner too. The regulars like the meatloaf and the chicken fried steak. $ B L D O’DOLLYS 7800 Third St. Rd., 375-1690. Homestyle steam-table favorites, available from breakfast to dinner, not to mention full bar service that makes O’Dollys a Southwest Louisville destination. $ B L D hp SHIRLEY MAE’S CAFÉ 802 Clay St., 589-5295. This Smoketown institution draws hungry locals as well as celebrities in town hungry for the soul food of their youth. BBQ ribs, and hot-water cornbread cooked in a cast iron skillets. Pig’s feet and chicken wings and collards, all seasoned with Shirley Mae Beard’s spice rack — salt and pepper. $ L D

WAGNER’S PHARMACY 3113 S. Fourth St., 375-3800. A track-side institution that has as much history as the nearby Twin Spires of Churchill Downs. Soups, sandwiches, shakes, cherry Cokes and an early bird “trainer’s” breakfast can be enjoyed all year round. Racing history on the walls and servers who’ll call you “hon.” $ B L WEBB’S MARKET 944 E. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 5830318. An old-line neighborhood corner grocery store houses a delicious secret: At the back you’ll find a steam table loaded with exceptional comfort food. Fried chicken is excellent, and don’t miss the chili. $BL

ANN’S BY THE RIVER 149 Spring St., Jeffersonville IN, 284-2667. This bustling eatery is cafeteria style dining done well. They serve up the standard steam table meat-and-three menu items as good as any. With the Ohio River a block away, it’s aptly named. $ L D THE BISTRO 3701 Frankfort Ave., 714-5586. A gem hidden away in The Olmsted, on the Masonic Home grounds in St. Matthews. This spot has earned terrific word-of-mouth buzz. Soups, sandwiches, salads, pastas are the mainstay of the menu, with a four-item lunch buffet that changes weekly. $ B Br L D f CRAVINGS A LA CARTE 101 S. Fifth St. (National City Tower), 589-4230. This thrifty deli offers a variety of build-your-own sandwiches, a soup-and-salad bar, and specialty bars featuring baked potatoes, and a monthly ethnic creation. $ L HALL’S CAFETERIA 1301 Story Ave., 583-0437. Doing a brisk business on the steam tables since 1955, they attract customers from Butchertown’s truck loading docks and from offices downtown. $ B L D

THE BARD’S TOWN 1801 Bardstown Rd., 749-5275. On the ground floor a 60-seat restaurant and 30-seat lounge. On the second floor is the 70-seat Bard’s Town Theatre home to a resident troupe dedicated to producing new works from Kentucky playwrights and beyond, to other theatre, poetry and musical acts from around the country. Food and beverage service, but it’s not a dinner theater. $$ Br D hpfe

JANE’S CAFETERIA 4601 Jennings Ln., 454-7286. This 40-year-old family-owned restaurant knows how to cook for folks missing their home table. Count on an attentive staff and fresh southern fare. $ B L

INCREDIBLE DAVE’S 9236 Westport Rd., 426-4790. “Awesome dining, extreme fun, where family fun hits maximum overdrive” is the promise at this giant dining and entertainment venue. It’s not just for kids: an upscale menu in a signature dining room is at the center of it all. $$ L D hp

LANCASTER’S CAFETERIA 223 W. Fifth St., New Albany IN, 949-2400. Troy Lancaster, the grandson of Southern Indiana catering king Tommy Lancaster, recalls the family’s culinary heritage with this family-friendly buffet-style cafeteria. $ L D PICCADILLY CAFETERIA 2131 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 493-9900. An east end favorite for variety, Piccadilly offers roast beef, fried chicken, cod, steak and shrimp dinners, a gardener’s list of vegetables and a few ethnic dishes for global measure. $ L D

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

DERBY DINNER PLAYHOUSE 525 Marriott Dr., Clarksville IN, 288-8281. The play’s the thing at Derby Dinner, Louisville’s long-running entry in the dinner-theater sweepstakes … but the expansive buffet dinner adds value to the mix. $$$$ L D pe HOWL AT THE MOON 434 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live), 562-9400. What’ll they think of next? How about a nightclub featuring a “dueling” piano bar with two pianos and a sing-along concept? You’ll find this 4,000-square-foot club at Fourth Street Live on the ground level. $ D hpfe

JOE HUBER FAMILY FARM & RESTAURANT 2421 Scottsville Rd., Starlight IN, 923-5255. A pleasant 20-minute drive from downtown Louisville, Huber’s has built a solid reputation for simple farm fare that’s well-made, fresh and good. Some of the produce is grown on the premises in season. $$$ L D pf MY OLD KENTUCKY DINNER TRAIN 602 N. Third St., Bardstown KY, (502) 348-7300. Talk about a nostalgia trip: My Old Kentucky Dinner Train offers www.facebook.com/foodanddine Spring 2013 69

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a four-course meal during a two-hour voyage along scenic Kentucky railroad tracks near Bardstown in vintage 1940s-era dining cars. Reservations are strongly recommended. $$$$ L D p

ACHILLES PIZZA 1730 Williamsburg Sq., Jeffersonville IN, 288-8882. $$ L D h ANGILO’S PIZZA 1725 Berry Blvd., 368-1032. The local favorite is the steak hoagie, dripping with pizza sauce, pickles and onions. Angilo’s also offers a wide selection of hot pizza pies and cold beer. $$ L D ANGIO’S RESTAURANT 3731 Old Bardstown Rd., 4515454. This small Buechel eatery attracts a friendly neighborhood crowd with hefty subs and quality pizzas, along with cold beer. $$ L D ANNIE’S PIZZA 2520 Portland Ave., 776-6400, 4771 Cane Run Rd., 449-4444. Annie’s has made-toorder pizza and a variety of stacked sandwiches such as the Big Daddy Strom with beef, Italian sausage, onions and banana peppers. $$ L D h ARNI’S PIZZA 1208 State St., New Albany IN, 9451149, 3700 Paoli Pike, Floyds Knobs IN, 923-9805. A favorite Hoosier pizza and sandwich stop. Insist on getting the Deluxe. $$ L D h BEARNO’S PIZZA (12 locations) What began as a simple, family-run pizzeria near Bowman Field has morphed into a local chain with, at last count, 13 locations. $$ L D h BONNIE & CLYDE’S PIZZA 7611 Dixie Hwy., 9355540. It may look like a dive that hasn’t been renovated in ages, the service can be surly at times, and you have to pay in cash, but devoted fans of its thin-crust pizzas and hoagies keep coming back and talk it up with their friends. $$ L D h BOOMBOZZ FAMOUS PIZZA 3400 Frankfort Ave., 896-9090. This handsome space at the corner of

Frankfort and Cannons Lane is another idiosyncratic link in the Boombozz chain. The taphousestyle menu of pastas and sandwiches along with award-winning pies carves its own niche with bottled beer exclusively. $$ B Br L D hf BOOMBOZZ PIZZA BISTRO 12613 Taylorsville Rd., 261-0222. Boombozz wins praise for exceptionally high quality pizza and other quick Italian-style fare. Tony’s pizzas include both traditional pies and gourmet-style specialties that have won awards in national competition. $$ L D hp BOOMBOZZ PIZZA & TAP HOUSE 1448 Bardstown Rd., 458-8889, 1315 Herr Ln., 394-0000. The Boombozz Pizza empire has expanded in concept, and the menu now extends into appetizers, sandwiches and pasta, and 21 craft beers on tap. The Highlands location boasts one of the only “frost bars” in the area — a refrigerated rail designed to keep your brew cool. $$ L D hpf BORROMEO’S PIZZA 9417 Smyrna Pkwy., 9687743. Serving up old-school thin-crust pizzas to chowhounds south of the Gene Snyder. $$ L D h CALIFORNIA PIZZA KITCHEN 7900 Shelbyville Rd. (Oxmoor Mall), 425-5125. California pizza became a trend when famous chefs gave this simple Italian fare a multi-ethnic spin with non-traditional Pacific Rim toppings. CPK successfully translates this trend for the mass market. $$ L D pf CHARLESTOWN PIZZA COMPANY 850 Main St., Charlestown IN, 256-2699. This welcoming venue on Charlestown’s town square, a short trip upriver from Jeffersonville, is run by folks who learned their pizza and beer at New Albanian Brewing Company. That’s a fine pedigree, and it shows in impressive quality. $$ L D CHEEZY’S PIZZA 801 E. Market St., Jeffersonville IN 288-8500. Fans of the former Tubby’s Pizza and owner Tubby Muncy can smile again. He’s back in the kitchen in a little local pizza joint just east of

downtown J’ville, serving up well crafted traditional pies whole or by the slice. $$ L D h CLIFTON’S PIZZA 2230 Frankfort Ave., 893-3730. One of the originators of “Louisville style” of pizza, with additional toppings placed over the cheese. The venerable Clifton’s Pizza appeals with its adult style, full of the bold flavors of herbs and spices and available with grown-up toppings like anchovies and artichoke hearts. $$ L D hpe COALS ARTISAN PIZZA 3730 Frankfort Ave., 7428200. The coal-fired oven bakes at 1000 degrees F, charring and crisping the crust in 4 minutes. The dough rises for three days, making for a lighter, more developed crust. Topping are fresh, regionallysourced, with specialty concepts. Look for local craft beers and house-made soups and salads in addition to pizzas. $$ L D hpf DANNY MAC’S PASTA & PIZZA 1567 S. Shelby St., 635-7994. $$ L D h DIORIO’S PIZZA & PUB 310 Wallace Ave., 618-3424. The former Karem’s Deli location in St. Matthews finally has a new tenant, serving pizza by the slice, as well as a mammoth 30-inch pie. Also grilled sandwiches, salads, wings, and queso sticks, and a good selection of domestic and import beers, including some BBC brews. $$ L D hpf FX PIZZA 4865 Old Vincennes Rd., Floyds Knobs IN, 903-0086. The Newton brothers of Southern Indiana, veterans of the corporate chain pizza world, have named their own pizzeria after their grandfather, Francis Xavier. In addition to hand-tossed thincrust, New York-style pies, FX offers chicken wings and breadsticks, and its owners are planning a nine-hole miniature golf course. $$ L D FAT DADDY’S PIZZA 10619 Manslick Rd., 363-7551. $$ L D h FAT JIMMY’S 2712 Frankfort Ave., 891-4555, 12216 Shelbyville Rd., 244-2500. This friendly neighborhood nook offers a cold mug of beer and a hot slice of pizza, along with sub sandwiches, pasta dishes and salads. The Lyndon spot lures a friendly biker crowd. $$ L D h FROLIO’S PIZZA 3799 Poplar Level Rd., 456-1000. Just around the corner from the Louisville Zoo, Frolio’s is a neighborhood pizzeria with a cozy, dim Italian-American mood and an all-you-can-eat pizza-and-salad lunch special. $$ L D h HOMETOWN PIZZA 11804 Shelbyville Rd., 2454555. Pasta dishes, hoagies, stromboli and cold beer are available, and so is the one-of-a-kind Bacon Cheeseburger pizza. $$ L D h IROQUOIS PIZZA 6614 Manslick Rd., 363-3211. $$ L D h JOHNNY BRUSCO’S PIZZA 10600 Meeting St., 749-8400. The Kansas City chain has opened its first location in Kentucky, in Norton Commons, offering New York style pies, subs, calzones, pasta and salads. $$ L D JOHNNY V’S 10509 Watterson Trail, 267-0900. $$ L D hp KENNA’S KORNER 4111 Murphy Ln., 426-8340. $$ L D he LA BOCCA PIZZERIA 2708 Paoli Pike, Floyds Knobs IN, 945-7711. Going northwest from I-265 you will find the latest in pizza choices at La Bocca, which is Italian for “the mouth.” You can fill your “bocca” with daily specials, such as Buffalo pizza, calzones, heroes, wraps or salads. Mangia, mangia! $$ L D p LITTLE CAESAR’S PIZZA (9 Locations) This Detroit-based pizzeria chain lost market share in the ’90s, but business analysts say the company known for its two-for-one “pizza pizza” deal has turned things around with a renewed commitment to quality and service. $$ L D h LOUISVILLE PIZZA CO. 3910 Ruckriegel Pkwy., 2671188. Also known as Chubby Ray’s, this local pizzeria makes good, fresh pizzas and Italian-American sandwiches. $$$ L D hpf

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LUIGI’S 712 W. Main St., 589-0005. New York Citystyle pizza, a treat that you’ll find on just about every street corner there, has been making inroads in River City, but Luigi’s was one of the first to offer in its authentic form here. $$ L MA ZERELLAS 949 S. Indiana Ave., Sellersburg IN, 246-9517. Pleasant family-run-for-family-fun establishments. Pizza, pasta, salads and subs served for lunch and dinner seven days a week. $$ L D h MELLOW MUSHROOM 3920 Shelbyville Rd., 4096874, 805 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 244-6112. This small pizza/calzone/hoagie/salad chain touts its stoner origins, as the chain’s name, and some of its offerings such as magic mushroom soup and Maui Wowie pizza, imply. Though a chain, each outlet tries to be funky in an individualistic, local way. $$ LDp MR. GATTI’S 703 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 283-5005, 8594 Dixie Hwy., 935-0100, 1108 Lyndon Ln., 339-8338, 4200 Outer Loop, 964-0920. This Austin-based chain was one of the first national pizzerias to reach Louisville in the 1970s, and quality ingredients — plus Gattiland playgrounds for the kids — have made its crisp, thin-crust pizzas a popular draw for nearly 30 years. $$ L D MUCHO QUESO PIZZERIA 2208 Bardstown Rd., 479-1040. $$ L D h NEW ALBANIAN BREWING CO. 3312 Plaza Dr., New Albany IN, 944-2577. Touting “the best pizza in Southern Indiana” is quite a boast, but pizza only tells half of this tasty story. NABC combines the fine pies of Sportstime Pizza with the pub formerly known as Rich O’s. Publican Roger Baylor’s remarkable beer list, with more than 100 selections from around the world — plus locally brewed craft beers — has won international awards. A pizza like the famous “Herbivore” (spinach, sliced tomatoes and roasted garlic) makes a sizzling treat, with a world-class beer to wash it down. $$ L D h

oven and hand-tossed with thinner crust where the ingredients go all the way to the edge. $$ L D

SNAPPY TOMATO 10000 Brownsboro Rd., 4126205. $$ L D

PIZZA PLACE 2931 Richland Ave., 458-9700. $$ L D

SPINELLI’S PIZZERIA 614 Baxter Ave., 568-5665, 2905 Goose Creek Rd., 632-2832, 4001 Shelbyville Rd., 895-0755, 239 S. Fifth St., 749-0919. This locally-owned pizzeria, widely known for their massive pizza by the slice, has expanded into St. Matthews, and now downtown too. All four locations are open until 5 a.m. nightly Wednesday through Saturday, offering Philly-style pizza and real Philly cheese steaks. $ L D h

hpf

PUCCINI’S SMILING TEETH 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 721-0170. A small but growing pizza chain based in Indianapolis opens its first Louisville property on Shelbyville Road. Thin pizza by the slice and other Italian-American dishes are served in an attractive setting that’s a cut above fast food. $$ L D ROCKY’S PIZZA & PANINI 3022 Bardstown Rd., 6908500. Need a quick lunch, and have a hankering for the classic Italian subs and pizzas that you have enjoyed for decades at Rocky’s? Now you can get them quick and to go at this counter-service only branch in the outer edge of the Highlands. $ L D hpf ROCKY’S SUB PUB 715 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 282-3844. Rocky’s is reinventing itself by going back to its roots. Gone is the “Italian Grill” appellation, and back is the Sub Pub theme, along with a growing selection of craft and import beers and a select choice of Italian-American entrées. Go to enjoy a pizza, some baked ziti or chicken parmigiana and some hoppy draft. $ L D hpf ROSIE’S PIZZA 13829 English Villa Dr., 244-2484. This Middletown pizzeria has been wowing customers for a while with its store-made crusts, and wide choice of toppings. Fans seem to go for the Whole Lot of Rosie, and the Hot Knots. $$ L D SAL’S PIZZA & WINGS 812 Lyndon Ln., 365-4700. Pizza, calzones, chicken and salads join the food choices in the Lyndon strip mall that also houses other ethnic restaurants. $$ L D hpf SICILIAN PIZZA & PASTA 629 S. Fourth St., 5898686. Ready for takeout or eat-in, this downtown storefront offers good, standard pizza and other familiar Italian-American dishes. $$ L D hf SIR DANO’S PIZZA PARLOR 496 N. Indiana Ave., Sellersburg IN, 246-3346. $$ L D hf

STUDIO PIZZA 1401 Veterans Pkwy, Clarksville IN, 288-6600. Owner Steve Baldwin serves up Chicagostyle pie, calzones and other tipico Italiano fare, with a performance stage ready for pro performers or karaoke. $$ L D TONY IMPELLIZZERI’S 5170 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 949-3000. Long-time Louisville pizzamaker moves across the river to fill the cravings of Hoosiers. $$$ D UNCLE MADDIO’S PIZZA JOINT 2011 Grinstead Dr., 690-8871. Finally the attractive space at the corner of Bardstown Rd. and Grinstead is luring some commercial occupants. The first restaurant in there is a pizza concept from the guys behind Moe’s Southwest Grill. Order at the counter from a range of custom choices and your pizza gets delivered to your table. $$ L D VITO’S PIZZA 1919 S. Preston St., 634-1003. A little neighborhood pizza pub on the edge of Germantown has been serving up its signature pies to neighbors and commuters who pick up pies before they get on nearby I-65 to head home. $$ L D hp WICK’S PIZZA PARLOR 975 Baxter Ave., 458-1828, 2927 Goose Creek Rd., 327-9425, 12717 Shelbyville Rd., 213-9425, 225 State St., New Albany IN, 945-9425, 9700 Bluegrass Pkwy., (Ramada Plaza) 409-4267. Wick’s wins popularity with a welcoming

OLD CHICAGO PASTA & PIZZA 9010 Taylorsville Rd., 301-7700, 10601 Fischer Park Dr., 657-5700. This growing chain specializes in both thick Chicago-style and thin traditional pizza, plus an imposing list of 110 beers from around the world. $$ L D hp ORIGINAL IMPELLIZZERI’S 1381 Bardstown Rd., 454-2711, 4933 Brownsboro Rd., 425-9080, 110 W. Main St., 589-4900. Impellizzeri’s pizzas, massive pies loved for a generation, can now be scarfed down near the new arena on Main, in addition to its Highlands and Brownsboro Road locations. $$$$ L D hpf PAPA JOHN’S PIZZA (30 locations) “Papa” John Schnatter got into the pizza game as a Southern Indiana high-school student in 1984 and has built his business into a 3,000-restaurant international chain on the basis of a simple formula: traditional pizza, made from quality ingredients in a straightforward style. $ L D h PAPA MURPHY’S PIZZA (11 Locations) $$ L D PAPALINOS 947 Baxter Ave., 749-8515. Former restaurant chef turned pizza guy Allan Rosenberg continues to satisfy his Highlands customers with his crispy-crust New York-style pizzas with premium, made in-house toppings. Take home an18-inch pies, scarf down an oversized slice for a snack, or make a meal from the calzones, breadsticks and short list of salads and desserts. $ L D h PERFETTO PIZZA 9910 Linn Station Rd., 426-4644. Located in the old Slice of NY space off S. Hurstbourne Parkway, Perfetto carries on the New York style tradition: pies by the slice, just like on Flatbush Ave. Hand-tossed crust, all kinds of toppings, plus Italian sausage and meatball sandwiches. $$ L D PIZZA KING 3825 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 945-4405, 1066 Kehoe Ln., Jeffersonville IN, 2828286. The pizza is baked in a sturdy, clay stone

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

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mix of good pizza, a quality beer list and a friendly neighborhood feel at all five of its eateries. The pies are straightforward, made with ample toppings. “The Big Wick” is a favorite. $$ L D hpfe ZA’S PIZZA 1573 Bardstown Rd., 454-4544. $$ L D hpf

ANOTHER PLACE SANDWICH SHOP 119 S. Seventh St., 589-4115. If you want to buy a car, go to a car dealer. To buy a carpet, patronize a carpet shop. And if you’ve got a sandwich on your to-do list, it makes sense to go to a sandwich shop. $ L BABY D’S BAGELS & DELI 2009 Highland Ave., 365-3354. This Highlands deli serves steamed bagel sandwiches and wraps, made with housesmoked and roasted meats. Look for funky sandwich names and desserts such as chocolatecovered bacon. $ B L D h BACKYARD BURGER 1800 Priority Way, 240-9945. The open flame at this counter-service diner provides the next best thing to a family cookout. Sandwiches, fresh salads, fruit cobblers and oldfashioned hand-dipped milkshakes enhance the nostalgic theme. $ L D BOARDWALK FRESH BURGERS AND FRIES 2909 E. Tenth St., Jeffersonville IN, 725-0200. With outlets in 12 states, Boardwalk now brings their fresh fries and burgers concept to the Ohio Valley. A step up from fast food with large patties that can be dressed to one’s whim. $$ L D BRIAN’S DELI 531 S. Fourth St., 561-0098. Between Chestnut Street and Muhammad Ali Boulevard, Brian’s services the downtown lunch crowd with soup, salads, sandwiches and snacks. $ L f BRUEGGER’S BAGELS 119 Breckenridge Ln., 6181158. The bagel / deli sandwich chain has set up shop in the middle of St. Matthews, offering another quick breakfast and lunch option. Choose from bagels and breakfast sandwiches, muffins, panini, salads and soups. $ B L f BURGER BOY 1450 S. Brook, 635-7410. For a real slice of Louisville life, this weathered greasy spoon at the corner of Brook and Burnett is the real thing. Neighborhood denizens drink coffee and chow down on burgers and breakfast until the wee hours (the joint is open 24 hours). If Louisville is home to a budding Charles Bukowski, there’s a good chance he’s sitting at their counter right now, recovering from last night’s excesses. $ B L D h BUTCHER’S BEST 9521 US Hwy. 42., 365-4650. This fully staffed meat store in Prospect offers customcut beef, lamb, pork, bison, chicken and veal, plus a well-stocked deli and specialty foods, with skilled butcher Jimmy Mike at the helm. $ L D f CAT BOX DELI 500 W. Jefferson St., 561-6259. The name of this cozy downtown deli in the PNC Bank building might warrant a double-take, but its feline theme and kitty cartoons earn a smile. Open for breakfast and lunch, it offers a good selection of sandwiches, panini and wraps at budget prices. $ L CHEF MARIA’S GREEK DELI 102 Fairfax Ave., 8957075. $ L D DANISH EXPRESS PASTRIES 102 1/2 Cannons Ln., 895-2863. Just a few tables turn this takeout nook into a sit-in breakfast and lunch spot for a handful of diners at a time. Full breakfasts and light lunches are available, but as the name implies, Danish pastries are the specialty, and they’re fine. $ B L DEVINO’S 104 W. Main St., 569-3939. This stylish deli offers another lunch and dinner option downtown. Sandwiches are made from quality Boar’s Head meats and cheeses cut on the premises, with dining inside and on the patio; package beer and wine is also available. $ L D f DIZZY WHIZZ DRIVE-IN 217 W. St. Catherine St., 5833828. This neighborhood eatery is an institution. It 72 Spring 2013 www.foodanddine.com

goes back more than 50 years and hasn’t changed much. It opens early and stays open late and offers good value for what you’d expect. $ L D hf DOOLEY’S BAGELCATESSEN 2415 Lime Kiln Ln., 426-3354. This convenient deli specializes in bagels, as the name implies. Breakfast means fresh bagels with an array of cream cheese, sausage, eggs and coffee. At lunchtime lines form for sandwiches — subs, panini, wraps, hot melts and cold cuts. $ B L DP UPDOGS 147 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 9480768. The long-lived but now defunct Little Chef diner at the corner of New Albany’s Market and Bank Streets has a new life and identity. Stop in for a variety of wiener concoctions, or an ice cream sandwich. $ f EINSTEIN BROTHERS BAGELS 320 W. Jefferson St., (Hyatt Regency) 217-6046. Nothing beats a bagel and a schmear of cream cheese — unless it’s a bagel, a schmear, and a generous slab of lox. For those who don’t live on bagels, a good selection of soups, salads and sandwiches offer quick sustenance at this branch of the national chain. $ B L f THE FEED BAG 133 Breckenridge Ln., 896-1899. The grilled salmon burger is worth the visit, as well as the Triple Crown wrap with three meats or a fresh veggie wrap. Soups, desserts top off the lunch-only schedule. $ L FIREHOUSE SUBS 215 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 3653473. This national chain touts that they steam their meat and cheese sandwiches. Specialty subs carry out the Firehouse theme and the kids meals include a little fire helmet. $ L D FRASCELLI’S NEW YORK DELI & PIZZERIA 4113 Murphy Ln., 243-9005. This shop offers Italian-style deli sandwiches and pizza, plus home-style Italian hot dishes from lasagna to baked ziti. $ L D hf GREAT LIFE CAFÉ 9565 Taylorsville Rd., 297-8807, 9463 Westport Rd., 420-0707, 951 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 284-5624. This small but growing local chain, founded by Steve and Jill Mazzoni and their friend Jason McCune, specializes in health and nutrition supplements and vitamins. $ B L D HONEYBAKED CAFÉ 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 8956001, 6423 Bardstown Rd., 239-9292, 3602 Northgate Crt., New Albany IN, 941-9426. Before holidays, you go in and carry out huge spiralsliced hams or turkey breasts or beef roasts for your own parties. In the off season, you sit down in the café and order generous, filling sandwiches made from those same meats, served on rolls or croissants, cold or with a hot cheese melt. Soup and salads too. And cookies. $ L D JASON’S DELI 410 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 412-4101, 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 896-0150, 1975 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 493-4130. Don’t look for a New York kosherstyle deli at this Texas-based chain, but suburbanites are lining up at its multiple locations for oversize sandwiches, salads, wraps and more. $ L D f JERSEY MIKE’S SUBS AND SALADS 10266 Shelbyville Rd., 244-1991, 10519 Fischer Park Dr., 425-1025, 9156 Taylorsville Rd., 499-9830. East Coast-style sub shop with local faves that includes cheese, ham, prosciuttini, capicola, salami, pepperoni and fixings. $ L D JIMMY JOHN’S SUB SHOP 976 Baxter Ave., 587-0550, 4000 Shelbyville Rd., 894-3331, 3901 Dutchmans Ln., 894-9393, 415 W. Jefferson St., 625-7101, 301 E. Market St., 587-7888, 1321 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 425-4515, 3001 Charlestown Crossing Way, New Albany IN. 725-8580, 1116 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 288-6700, 12903 Shelbyville Rd., 384-8884, 341 W. Cardinal Blvd., 634-3334. This national sandwich-shop chain offers a wide selection of over stuffed subs that benefit from fresh quality ingredients. But what sets them apart from the rest is their value — and they deliver. $ L D f

LENNY’S SUB SHOP 3942 Taylorsville Rd., 454-7831. Another semi-national chain, covering mostly the South and Midwest, brings a selection of familiar subs, sandwiches and salads to Louisville diners eager for more standardized semi-fast food. $ L D f LIL’ CHEEZERS 938 Baxter Ave., 409-7424. The food truck specializing in sort-of upscale grilled cheese sandwiches has added a brick and mortar spot in the Highlands. Its specialties include caprese grilled cheese (tomato and mozzarella) and a Fancy Pants that includes Brie, caramelized onions, apple and walnuts. $ L D hf LONNIE’S BEST TASTE OF CHICAGO 121 St. Matthews Ave., 895-2380, 8129 Preston Hwy., 5093640. This appetizing operation offers genuine Chicago hot dogs and a taste of Chicago atmosphere for a price that won’t hurt your wallet. A second location brings the Windy City fare to Okolona. $ L D f LOTSA PASTA 3717 Lexington Rd., 896-6361. A Louisville pioneer in gourmet cheeses, oils, dips, hummus and, of course, pasta. They are mainly an eclectic specialty-food store but fans stand threedeep at the sandwich counter every afternoon. And next door is a comfortable place to have coffee and pastry or to eat your sandwich. $ L D f MAIN EATERY 643 W. Main St., 589-3354. Smack dab in the middle of the Main Street historic district, this fashionable deli lures the savvy business midday crowd. $ L MAIN STREET CAFÉ 217 E. Main St., 992-8080. Offering sandwiches made from house-smoked and cured pastrami, sorghum bacon and other artisanal foods. $ B L f MCALISTER’S DELI 10041 Forest Green Blvd., 4258900, 2721 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 671-2424, 2400 Lime Kiln Ln., 339-8544, 6510 Bardstown Rd., 2399997, 12911 Shelbyville Rd., 244-5133, 1305 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 282-3354, 1200 S. Floyd St. (U of L), 825-2285, 4677 Outer Loop, 969-3328, 980 Breckenridge Ln., 895-1698. Emphasizing quality customer service, this delicatessen ladles up such soups as gumbo and chicken tortilla along with cutting board favorites. They have a special way with a tumbler of sweet iced tea. $ L D MORRIS DELI & CATERING 2228 Taylorsville Rd., 458-1668, 555 S. Second St. (YMCA building), 5872353. Many locals still know this small, popular Highlands deli as Karem Deeb’s after its longtime previous owner. Mostly for takeout — it packs in a few crowded tables — it’s known for high-quality, hand-made deli fare. A second location is now open in the YMCA downtown. $ L NANCY’S BAGEL BOX 651 S. Fourth St., 589-4004. An outpost of Nancy’s Bagel Grounds in Clifton, this little outlet, inside Theater Square Marketplace, offers a similar mix of light fare and Nancy’s unique take on the bagel. $ B L NANCY’S BAGEL GROUNDS 2101 Frankfort Ave., 895-8323. A friendly and casual neighborhood gathering spot. Offerings include soups, snacks, coffee drinks and bagels made on the premises to its own rather idiosyncratic formula. $ B L f OLLIE’S TROLLEY 978 S. Third St., 583-5214. A little piece of fast-food history remains on an urban street corner in Old Louisville. It’s one of the nation’s few surviving trolleys of the Louisvillebased chain that spread across the nation in the ’70s. Oversize burgers with a spicy, homemade flavor are just as good as ever. $ L PANERA BREAD CO. 7900 Shelbyville Rd. (Oxmoor Mall), 899-9992, 6221 Dutchmans Ln., 895-9991, 601 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 423-7343, 10451 Champion Farms Dr., 426-2134, 3131 Poplar Level Rd., 635-9164, 1040 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 288-9400, 400 W. Market St., 540-5250, 1801 Rudy Ln., 710-0297, 1534 Bardstown Rd., 459-8160. Warm breads finish-baked on the premises make a

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tasty base for a variety of sandwiches. Soups, salads, coffee drinks and a free WiFi hotspot make Panera’s outlets popular gathering places. $ B L D f PAUL’S FRUIT MARKET 3922 Chenoweth Sq., 8968918, 4946 Brownsboro Rd., 426-5070, 12119 Shelbyville Rd., 253-0072, 3704 Taylorsville Rd., 456-4750. One of Louisville’s popular sources for produce, cheeses, deli items, and the like. Deli sandwiches and salads are available (takeout only). $ L D PENN STATION (17 Locations). Billed as the East Coast Sub Headquarters, this sandwich kitchen does a brisk business here in the Louisville area. $ L D POTBELLY SANDWICH SHOP 302 S. Fourth St., 5401100. The Chicago-based chain has set up shop along the quick-lunch row just north of 4th Street Live.The Louisville location is run by two escapees from the financial services world who depended on Chicago Potbelly sandwiches to get them through grueling trading sessions. $ L D

salad sides and desserts fill out an appetizing lunch menu. $ L D TC’S SANDWICH SHOPPE 438 W. Market St., 5819200. $ L THORNBERRY’S DELI & PIES 5103 S. Third St., 367-8394. $ L TOM+CHEE 1704 Bardstown Rd., 409-9494. Louisville’s first outlet of the Cincinnati-based soup and sandwich chain fills the space once occupied by Penn Station Subs. Its hook is serving many variations on grilled cheese sandwiches (including a grilled cheese donut that has gained TV notoriety) and tomato (and other) soups. Daily specials augment the 15 core menu choices. $ L D f W.W. COUSINS RESTAURANT 900 Dupont Rd., 897-9684. This locally owned and operated eatery

baloney and chicken, smoked turkey and sirloin tips, and plenty of side choices. Dine-in, carry-out and catering available. $ L D f BLUEGRASS BBQ 119 Saint Matthews Ave., 8933111. Taking over the space vacated by the Neighborhood Café, this tiny BBQ joint in the heart of St. Matthews offers the usual smoked meats: pulled pork and brisket, chicken and ribs, and a panoply of side dishes. $ L D BOOTLEG BARBECUE COMPANY 9704 Bardstown Rd., 239-2722, 7508 Preston Hwy., 968-5657. Bootleg Barbecue offers a touch of rusticity and a good helping of country hospitality, as it dishes out hearty portions of well-prepared and affordable smoked meats and fixin’s. It’s one of the few places in Louisville where you can get Western Kentuckystyle mutton barbecue. $ L D f

QUIZNO’S SUBS (7 locations) Toasted breads, a sandwich selection of meats, veggies and fish are built to fight hunger. Fresh soups are available daily, from chili to chowder; so are salads and desserts. $ L RED’S COMFORT FOOD 514 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 587-7337. Across from Louisville Gardens, “Red” offers gourmet wieners and sausages, chicken barbecue topped with coleslaw and vegetarian side dishes, many made with locally sourced products. Red closes for the winter, though, so his fans have to wait til spring. $ L f SAE CAFÉ 200 S. Seventh St., 585-3400. This spunky downtown breakfast and lunch place has goals of serving more healthful — and tasty — choices. Muffins and other breakfast pastries are by Najla’s, a Louisville baker that uses no trans-fats, corn syrup or preservatives. The sandwiches have clever names — Angry Bob, Hail to the Chief, Mexi Mama wrap and the Knuckle sandwich — and there are also salads and daily soup specials. $ B L SCHLOTZSKY’S DELI 10531 Fischer Park Dr., 4258447. The original Schlotzsky’s offered just one kind of sandwich — “The Original” — when it opened its first eatery in Austin, Texas, in 1971. Now this national chain vends a full selection of deli-style fare, with one significant improvement on the traditional deli: the servers are invariably polite. $ B L D f SCOTTY’S VILLAGE MARKET 10640 Meeting St., 384-6338. A grocery store and deli joins the retail mix at Norton Commons. In keeping with the Village theme, the store will evoke the feel and ambience of the old local grocery, in addition to doing on-site baking, smoking meats, and offering full to-go dinners. $ L D f SHADY LANE CAFÉ 4806 Brownsboro Center, 8935118. Another attractive East End storefront, Shady Lane Café, has been earning good reviews for simple breakfast and lunch fare served in friendly surroundings. $ Br L f SOUPY’S 3019 Breckenridge Ln., 451-5325. In the soup kettles you will find such classics as cheesy potato, bean and ham, broccoli and cheese, chicken and dumplings and more. At the cutting board they’ll make your meat, cheese and veggie sandwiches according to your custom design. $ L D THE STARVING ARTIST CAFÉ & DELI 8034 New Lagrange Rd., 412-1599. $ L STEVENS & STEVENS 1114 Bardstown Rd., 5843354. This authentic New York-style deli occupies the rear third of the Ditto’s space in the heart of the Highlands. Take out or eat in one of the booths, you’ll get piled-high pastrami, brisket and corned beef and you’ll love lox and a schmear on your bagel — even if you don’t know what a schmear is. $ L SUB STATION II 3101 Fern Valley Rd., 964-1075. The hardy No. 19, a six-meat-and-cheese super sub, keeps the store buzzing. An array of sandwiches,

looks a lot like the national Fuddruckers chain, but the local boys do a better job, with huge burgers on magisterial home-baked buns and a Metropolitan Museum of toppings. $ L D h WALL ST. DELI 225 Abraham Flexner Way (Jewish Hospital) 585-4202. Offering New York style with Kentucky flair, this busy downtown deli will serve in-house diners or take orders for deliveries. Authentic Nathan’s Hot Dogs are a specialty. $ L D ZOUP! 318 S. Fourth St., 963-0777. Another chain outlet downtown gives all the lawyers and government workers another choice for soups, sandwiches and salads, plenty of low-fat, dairy-free and vegetarian choices that will rotate daily. $ L D

B3Q BBQ 1044 Copperfield Drive, Georgetown IN, 951-3900. Ribs, pulled pork and beef brisket, served up as sandwiches, wraps or platters. Also, smoked

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

BRANDON’S BBQ & PIZZA 9901 LaGrange Rd., 426-6666. Featuring hickory-smoked Tennesseestyle barbecue sandwiches and filling, affordable dinners. $ L D DERBY CITY BBQ AND CATERING 2932 S. Fourth St., 690-4204. $ L D DUVALLE GRUB-N-SCRUB 3501 Cane Run Rd., 7721277. Pull into this Shively carwash and get some Boss Hog’s BBQ while the boys detail your wheels. Ribs and rib tips, chicken wings, hamburgers, pulled pork and chicken, milk shakes, and soft serve cones. $ L D FAMOUS DAVE’S BAR-B-QUE 8605 Citadel Way, 493-2812, 1360 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 282-3283. This franchise chain operation may be based in the twin cities, but it looks like a Georgia gas station with its exuberant, if tongue-in-cheek faux country decor. The important thing, though, is the food, and Dave’s excels with genuine, hickory-smoked barbecue. $$ L D hpf

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FEAST BBQ 116 W. Main St., New Albany IN, 9200454. Owner Ryan Rogers, graduate of the French Culinary Institute, brings a modernist sensibility to the age-old art of barbecue. He works out formulas for brining times, and trusts the electronic circuitry of his high-tech smoker to keep the temps low and keep the smoke from overwhelming he meats. He also boasts one of the largest selections of Bourbon in southern Indiana. $ L D hpf FIRE FRESH BBQ 211 S. Fifth St., 540-1171, 8610 Dixie Hwy., 995-7585. Fire fighters, it is said, eat heartily and well. It’s no coincidence, then, that Fire Fresh BBQ pays homage to local fire departments in its restaurant’s decor. The barbecue and country fixin’s stand comparison to the best firehouse cuisine. $ L D FRANKFORT AVENUE BEER DEPOT 3204 Frankfort Ave., 895-3223. A neighborhood bar that welcomes all comers with some of the most notable ’cue in town. The burgoo and the baked beans rank as some of the best in the city and the pulled pork by the pound is value worth taking home. $ L D pf HARLEY’S HARDWOODZ BAR-B-Q 1703 CharlestownNew Albany Pk., Jeffersonville IN, 284-4490. Owner Frank Harley said “I found my calling, which is barbecue.” He smokes up barbecue pork, chicken and brisket, marinated in Harley’s own barbecue sauce. A menu specialty: smoked chicken white chili. $ L D JUCY’S SMOKEHOUSE BAR-B-QUE 7626 New Lagrange Rd., 241-5829. Jucy’s offers exceptionally good Texas-style barbecue from a little wooden shack that looks just like a country BBQ joint should. Highly recommended. $$ L D f MARK’S FEED STORE 11422 Shelbyville Rd., 2440140, 1514 Bardstown Rd., 458-1570, 10316 Dixie Hwy., 933-7707, 3827 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 285-1998, 6501 Bardstown Rd., 442-0808. Mark Erwin started this chain in an old Hancock’s Feed Store. Today, Mark’s routinely takes local honors for its sauces, sandwiches and its meaty baby-back ribs. And don’t miss the smoked takehome turkeys at Thanksgiving. $$ L D h f MOMMA’S MUSTARD PICKLES & BBQ 102 Bauer Ave., 938-6262. The Okie owner of this new spot brings Kansas City barbecue to St. Matthews. Knot on your bib for smoked ribs, brisket, chicken, pulled pork and all the standard sides. Lots of hefty party packs perfect to-go options. $$ D f OLE HICKORY PIT BAR-B-QUE 6106 Shepherdsville Rd., 968-0585. Located in an attractive house not far from General Electric’s Appliance Park, this Louisville relative of a famous Western Kentucky barbecue pit is well worth the trip. $ L D f

SCOTTY’S RIBS AND MORE 14049 Shelbyville Rd., 244-6868. Ribs, pork, chicken a la carte and dinners. The small East End venue moves a lot of pizzas and salads as well. $$ L D hp

old Kunz’s, the original owners are back from a decade-long hiatus serving wings and calamari, chili, salads, burgers, sandwiches, subs and pastas. And beer. $$ L D hpfe

SHACK IN THE BACK BBQ 406 Mt. Holly Rd., 3633227. This Fairdale institution since 2004 smokes and serves slow-smoked pulled pork, brisket, ribs and a dozen sides (including Nanny’s potato salad) from an 1896 log house. House specialty is hickory-grilled steaks on Friday and Saturday nights. $ L D fe

BROWNIE’S THE SHED GRILLE & BAR 237 Whittington Pkwy., 326-9830. Restaurant owner and namesake Keith Brown used to host neighborhood gatherings in a shed at his home. Now he brings the same sociable concept to his pub and eatery. Louisville’s official home for Cincy Bengals fans, Brownie’s may be the closest thing Hurstbourne has to a Germantown neighborhood saloon. $ L D hpfe

SHANE’S RIB SHACK 2420 Lime Kiln Ln., 429-3907. “Rib” may be its middle name, but you can also fill up on wings, chicken tenders, sandwiches and more at this growing Atlanta-based chain. $$ L D f SMOKEHOUSE BBQ 5414 Bardstown Rd., 239-4422. This smokery on Bardstown Road just past Hurstbourne offers baby back and spare ribs, pulled pork, brisket, chicken and burgers, along with home-cooked sides like collard greens, sweet potato fries and onion loaf. Finish off with a coconut cream pie or chocolate cobbler. $$ L D p SMOKETOWN USA 1153 Logan St., 409-9180. The name “Smoketown” points to the restaurant’s location in this legendary midtown neighborhood, while signaling there’s consistently fine and cleverly fused Memphis- and Texas-style barbecue to be found here. Irrepressible owner Eric Gould maintains his neighborhood spot also is about vegetarian food and yard sales, and everything in the store is for sale (artwork on the walls, furniture, even the salt shakers, just make an offer). You’ll also find live entertainment three nights weekly. $$ L D f SMOKEY BONES BBQ 2525 Hurstbourne Gem Ln., 491-7570. A property of Orlando’s Darden fastfood chain, which also runs Olive Garden and Red Lobster, this noisy Stony Brook-area eatery conveys more of a sports-bar than barbecue concept, but the ribs are fine. $$ L D hp TEXICANS BBQ PIT 6608 Hwy. 146, Crestwood. 2419227. A small, neighborhood place just off I-71 in Crestwood pleases fans with standard barbecue fare — pulled pork, brisket and ribs — as well as smoked sausage, chicken and boneless chops. Cinnamon apples join the usual side selection of green beans, slaw and mac and cheese. $ L D

PINK BARON BBQ 400 W. Court Ave., 835-7361. $LD

30 RED SPORTS SALOON 9601 Newbridge Rd., 6903050. Fern Creek gets a lively new sports bar — lots of TVs — with Happy Hour specials on food and drink, and solid bar food —— cheese quesadillas and mini-corn dogs, burgers, wings and fried fish sandwich. The Roulette Wheel is your choice of three appetizers, meant for sharing. $$ L D hp

PIT STOP BAR-B-QUE 13303 Magisterial Dr., 2536740. This familiar old local brand, long a downtown fixture, now offers its smokey Texas barbecue in an East End industrial park just off the Gene Snyder Freeway and Old Henry Road. $ L D

BAXTER’S 942 BAR & GRILL 942 Baxter Ave., 4099422. This recent addition to the Baxter corridor, offers bar food, luring both rockers and good ol’ boys with a combination of rock and country and western in its music plan. $ L D hpfe

RITE WAY BAR-B-CUE HOUSE 1548 W. St. Catherine St., 584-9385. Open since 1943, this West End landmark in a one-time neighborhood grocery, offers exceptional urban barbecue, including ribs that rank with the city’s best. $ L D

BEEF O’BRADY’S 241 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 254-2322, 5628 Bardstown Rd., 239-2226, 3101 S. Second St., 637-3737, 105 LaFollette Ct., 923-1316, 1450 Veterans Pkwy., Jeffersonville IN, 285-9464, 5501 Valley Station Rd., 933-5919, 11324 Preston Hwy., 966-8515. If you think your basic sports pub is only suitable for guys guzzling beer, take another look: Beef O’Brady’s puts the “family” in “family sports pub,” offering a wholesome environment. $ L D hf

RIVER ROAD BBQ 3017 River Rd., 592-7065. Right next to the Water Tower, this little take-out only place smokes brisket and pork: some days one sells out, on other days the other. Winter hours are 116 or until the meat runs out. Potato salad, slaw and drinks. Buy it by sandwich or by the pound. $ L D RUBBIE’S SOUTHSIDE GRILL & BAR 6905 Southside Dr., 367-0007. This South End family knows how to do BBQ. It may be off the beaten path for some folks but here you’ll find the bounty of secret BBQ recipes. $ L D hpfe 74 Spring 2013 www.foodanddine.com

BIG AL’S BEERITAVILLE 1715 Mellwood Ave., 8934487. Good people, good food, cold beer: The sign out front says it all, and we might add “cool atmosphere” in praise of this small but friendly Butchertown oasis. $ L D hpf THE BREWERY 426 Baxter Ave., 365-2505. First renovated in 1984, including the antique bar from the

BUD’S TAVERN GOOD FOOD & BARBECUE 4014 Dixie Hwy., 384-9131. New ownership has spiffed up this Shively outpost now offering honest bar food that’s receiving high praise. Check out the “gently fried” grouper, burgers (including a Rueben burger), burritos and barbecue. $ L D hpfe BUFFALO WILD WINGS (BW-3’S) 6801 Dixie Hwy., 935-1997, 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 899-7732, 9134 Taylorsville Rd., 499-2356, 3584 Springhurst Blvd., 394-9596, 12901 Shelbyville Rd., 254-9464, 1055 Bardstown Rd., 454-3635, 1112 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 283-9464. As much a sports bar as a restaurant, this national franchise chain offers tasty snack-type fare, including the chain’s trademark Buffalo chicken wings. $$ L D hpf BUNGALOW JOE’S BAR & GRILL 7813 Beulah Church Rd., 931-5637. A “family friendly sports bar and grill” in the Fern Creek area sports 23 HDTVs including a 5- by 7-foot HD projector for 3D football viewing. A game room for kids, and plenty of wings, shrimp, burgers and beer. $$ L D hpfe CHAMPIONS SPORTS BAR AND GRILL 280 W. Jefferson St. (Louisville Marriott), 671-4246. Another popular option at the striking downtown Marriott, Champions provides a fun, casual dining alternative with a Kentucky sports theme — and a gallery of big-screen televisions to keep the sports action flowing as freely as the libations and upscale pub grub. $$ L D hp CHAMPPS AMERICANA 302 Bullitt Ln., 394-7620. The Fox & Hound sports bar concept wasn’t quite working at this Oxmoor location, so its Wichita owners are trying another sports bar concept. If you like “big, made-from-scratch burgers piled sky high, big selection of ice-cold beers and big … no, massive screens on the walls,” it’s your kind of place. $$$ L D hp CLARK’S LYNDON VILLAGE PUB 813 Lyndon Ln., 290-7334. This sports bar-music venue highbred features Clark, a guitarist himself, joining musicians on stage for frequent jam sessions. Daily bar specials run the gamut of wine, spirits and beer for sports fans who also can catch games on its nine flatscreen TVs. In addition to the usual sliders and wings, the menu includes a fried bologna and bacon, egg and cheese sandwich. $$ L D hpfe CLUCKERS WINGS 4308 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 944-8100, 100 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 590-3662, 313 W. Cardinal Blvd., 365-1665. At this growing chain, you can get your wings doused in an array of sauces, from honey barbecue to spicy garlic barbecue to sweet Thai chili to inferno — a habanero-based sauce that has a legit name. Also breaded and grilled tenders, chicken sandwiches, appetizers and salads. $ L D hpf DIAMOND PUB & BILLIARDS 3814 Frankfort Ave., 895-7513, 630 Barret Ave., 895-7513. $ L D

hpfe

DRAKE’S 3939 Shelbyville Rd., 614-7327, 3921 Summit Plaza Dr.,384-3921. Lexington-based Bluegrass Hospitality Group now has two Louisville outlets, the first in the old Burdorf’s building in St. Matthews and the second at The Summit. Twenty-four craft beers on tap to wash down the traditional pub grub of tacos, ribs and — these days — sushi. Family-friendly by

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day and a hoppin’ spot at night, with music videos and a DJ. $$ L D hpf FLANAGAN’S ALE HOUSE 934 Baxter Ave., 585-3700. Gourmet pizzas, hoagies, and an enormous beer selection draw Highlands folks to this cozy neighborhood pub. For a late night pizza (the kitchen’s open until 2 a.m.), it’s one of the best options in the city. $$ L D hpf FOUR KINGS CAFÉ 4642 Jennings Ln., 968-2930. Steam-table service featuring spaghetti and meatballs, lasagna and chicken attract a hungry lunch crowd at this casual spot, and brunch specialties are just as popular. $ L D p GERSTLE’S PLACE 3801 Frankfort Ave., 742-8616. A popular St. Matthews neighborhood tavern since 1924. Although dining is secondary to booze and sports here, the food goes well beyond mere pub grub. $ L D hpfe GRANVILLE INN 1601 S. Third St., 637-9128. A longtime gathering place for U of L students, faculty and fans, this sturdy redbrick tavern just north of the university campus offers a good variety of bar munchies, sandwiches and simple grilled fare plus pizza. It’s perhaps best known, though, for the signature Granville Burger, widely reputed as one of the best burgers in town. $ L D hp

THE LIGHTHOUSE 202 Main St., Jeffersonville IN, 283-0077. This lighthouse has been a beacon of casual, home cooking and tavern environment for years. Daily specials, appetizers, chicken and fish baskets, salads and desserts round out the menu. $ L D pe

THE SPORTING NEWS GRILL 6551 Paramount Park Dr. (Holiday Inn), 966-0000. Just what you want in a sports bar: seven 52-inch screens, subscriptions to all the pro and college sports networks, and hearty appetizers, Angus burgers, steaks, shrimp and salmon. $$$ L D hpf

MAIN ST. TAVERN 122 W. Main St., 384-0151. Longstanding blues bar Zena’s closed, but fans were relieved when the funky downtown space was reopened by the owners of Amici in Old Louisville, who continue to offer great music and even better bar food. $ L D hpe

THE SPORTS & SOCIAL CLUB 427 S. Fourth St., (Fourth Street Live) 568-1400. This Cordish-owned spot has four bars — including one that opens out onto the street — plenty of TVs to catch every game, and even a “stadium style sports media room.” Chow down with the usual burgers, sandwiches and wings. $$ L D hpf

NEW DIRECTION BAR & GRILL 2630 Chamberlain Ln., 243-8429. $ L D hpfe RIVER CITY DRAFTHOUSE 1574-1/2 Bardstown Rd., 690-5111. Another beer joint along the Bardstown Road corridor boasts more than 20 taps concerned on independent, American, craft beer (in sample, halfpint and pint sizes) and several bottled options. Its

SPRING STREET BAR & GRILL 300 S. Spring St., 584-6630. A classic American bar and grill, open late on weekends, dispensing cold beer, burgers, sandwiches and good cheer in a friendly atmosphere. The decor includes a collection of old bicycles hanging from the ceiling, and amenities include several video games and pool tables. $$ L D hp

limited (for now) bar menu has garnered early praise for its wings. $$ L D hf

SULLY’S SALOON 434 S. Fourth St., (Fourth Street Live) 585-4100. $$ L D hpfe

ROOTIE’S SPORTS BAR & GRILLE 12205 Westport Rd., 365-4681. The first entry of the Buffalo-based chain to open in the area. Rootie’s angle is charcoal-grilled wings with a thick, hickory-smoked spicy sauce. $ L D hpf

THE BACK DOOR 1250 Bardstown Rd., (Mid City Mall) 451-0659. You need a bit of perseverance to track down this saloon on the back side of Mid-City Mall. When you do, you will find one of the city’s friendliest pubs, with a reputation for the best pour of drinks around. Limited bar fare, but don’t miss the chicken wings. $ D hpf

GREAT AMERICAN GRILL 2735 Crittenden Dr. (Hilton), 637-2424. Located in the Hilton Garden Inn. Salads, burgers, pastas and sandwiches are available for the casual diner; main entrées include New York strip, filet of salmon and more. $ Br D pf HIGHLANDS TAPROOM GRILL 1058 Bardstown Rd., 584-5222. Another nice choice for beer and bar food along the B’town Rd. corridor, but with former Lilly’s chef Tommy Clemons at the helm the menu includes, but extends beyond, the usual beer cheese, chili and burgers. Look for the crabby patty, smoked shrimp scampi, or French toast sausage, house made with egg and maple syrup. The pulled pork spring rolls are on their way to becoming legendary. $$ L D hpfe HILLTOP TAVERN 1800 Frankfort Ave., 742-2908. The Skelton brothers (John is an alum of Seviche) have taken over this prime Clifton location, once the original location of Café Lou Lou. Their tavern fare is focused on barbecue, with pulled pork and beer-butt chicken specialties, along with hefty sandwiches (their meatloaf is a standout). $ D hp HITCHING POST INN 7314 Fegenbush Ln., 2394724. In addition to its full bar and beer garden, and lively conversation, the Hitching Post Inn offers an array of pub grub, including burgers, chicken tenders, and sandwiches. $ L D hpf HOOPS GRILL AND SPORTS BAR 6733 Strawberry Ln., 375-4667. The name says it all: sports, casual dining and good things to drink all find their natural meeting place at this friendly neighborhood spot where hot wings and hoops reign supreme. $ L D hpf JERSEY’S CAFÉ 1515 Lynch Ln., Clarksville IN, 2882100. Quality, affordable fare that goes well beyond pub grub to include an awesome smokehouse burger and barbecued ribs so tender, they say, that you can just tap the end of the bone on your plate, and the meat falls off. $ L D hpf JOHN O’BRYAN’S TAVERN 4123 Flintlock Dr., 4494940. $ B L D JR’S PUB 826 W. Main St., New Albany IN, 920-0030. This new bar and grill adds more life to an increasingly busy New Albany downtown with live entertainment every Friday and Saturday, a daily $1 draft beer pick, a full menu including a daily $6 Blue Plate Special (think comfort foods like Salisbury steak and liver and onions), and an allyou-can-eat fish, fries and slaw choice. $$ L D

hpfe

SAINT’S 131 Breckinridge Ln., 891-8883. Almost like two restaurants in one, Saints features both a small, intimate, candle-lighted room and a larger, happily boisterous main room with the look and feel of a sports bar. $$ L D hpfe SERGIO’S WORLD BEERS 1605 Story Ave., 618-2337. Despite minimal signage, Sergio’s Butchertown digs pull in his fans, who dig the quirky website, and the whole aura of haughty mystery. What you really need when you locate the place is a desire to explore Sergio’s world beer inventory, nearing 1000 different brews. $$ D h

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

TIN ROOF 3921 Shelbyville Rd., 895-1940. This Nashville-based chain, which took over the old Brendan’s location in the heart of St. Matthews has a split personality: a family-friendly vibe during the lunch hours; and a rockin’ juke joint at night with live music until 3 a.m. Its menu encompasses everything you expect from bar grub: deep-fried hot dogs, hot wings, quesadillas and salads for the ladies. $ L D hpfe

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TROLL PUB UNDER THE BRIDGE 150 W. Washington St., 618-4829. On the downslope alongside the Clark Memorial Bridge, a large troll beckons the adventurous into a space excavated out of the lost space in the old whiskey warehouse. The renovation boasts lots of dark, brick-walled spaces, as well as a funky outdoor dining area in the lightwell. The menu offers stacked sandwiches, bison burgers and sweet potato tots, and ribeye steaks. $$ L D hpf VIC’S CAFÉ 1839 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 9444338. $ L D WINGSTOP 4812 Dixie Hwy., 409-6000. This Texasbased chain with 500 restaurants nationally, now reaches into Louisville. Their specialty? Wings of course, and you can get them 9 different ways. $$ L D hp ZANZABAR 2100 S. Preston St., 635-9227. An icon of the ’70s bar scene, the Zbar has resurrected itself at its original location in Germantown. The stylish tile front has been recreated anew, and chef Jack Tapp is pushing the envelope on bar food, with items such as pulled pork smoked on site, sesame seed-crusted tuna salad, and peppercorn-crusted rib eye. “Pub grub” like this and top-flight live music is satisfying oldtimers and the newly hip late into the night. $ L D hpfe

AGAINST THE GRAIN BREWERY 401 E. Main St., 515-0174. Slugger Field once again has a beer-pub. The owners, veterans of the local brewing revival, have worked out an ambitious rotating beer selection and a smokehouse theme for the kitchen, with an emphasis on seasonal dishes. $$ L D pf APOCALYPSE BREW WORKS 1612 Mellwood Ave., 589-4843. Veteran home brewers Leah Dienes, Paul Grignon and Bill Krauth have teamed up to open a new brewery in Butchertown. Their taproom, dubbed The Fallout Shelter, will serve up to 10 of their concoctions. $ h BANK STREET BREWHOUSE 415 Bank St., New Albany IN, 725-9585. The food focus of this offshoot of F&D columnist Roger Baylor’s New Albanian brewing empire has morphed into American bistro cuisine, with emphasis on fresh and local ingredients, and daily fish specials. Devotees will still find steak frites and croques monsieurs et madames to go with the exceptional beer brewed on the premises. $$ L D pf BLUEGRASS BREWING COMPANY 3929 Shelbyville Rd., 899-7070, 636 E. Main St., 584-2739, 660 S. Fourth St., 568-2224, 300 W. Main St., 562-0007. More than just a brewpub. BBC’s management gives equally serious attention to both cooking and brewing, making this a great place to stop in for both dinner and a beer. Its third restaurant site near the new arena boasts an upstairs Bourbon lounge. $$ L D hpfe CUMBERLAND BREWS 1576 Bardstown Rd., 4588727. Giving new meaning to the term “microbrewery,” Cumberland Brews may be one of the smallest eateries in town. It’s usually packed, earning its crowds the old-fashioned way by providing very good food, friendly service, and high-quality handcrafted artisan beers. $ L D hf GORDON BIERSCH BREWERY RESTAURANT 400 S. Fourth St., 589-8935. The growing national brewery and restaurant chain has become an anchor at the corner location at 4th and Liberty, brewing their characteristic German-style bottomfermented lagers, Hefeweizen, bocks, pilsners and Schwarzbiers. The large menu offers the usual pubgrub, but touted as fresh, seasonal and made on the premises. $$$ Br L D hpf NEW ALBANIAN BREWING CO. 3312 Plaza Dr., New Albany, IN, 944-2577. (See review under Pizza.)

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ADDIS GRILL 109 S. Fourth St., 581-1011. The signage of this downtown ethnic eatery promises “Mediterranean & Ethiopian Cuisine,” but the menu offers mostly Mediterranean standbys — kabobs, hummus, baba ghannouj, dolmades, tabbouleh. $ L D h AL NUUR 2933 S. Fourth St., 210-7623. Another outlet for Arabian food, but one that goes beyond the usual. You can find long-braised lamb shank and roasted goat, as well as shish kebabs, fish and spaghetti. Take out or eat in. $ L D BELA’S CAFÉ 2933 S. Fourth St., 758-6463. This little Somali café caters mostly to the Muslim community settling in around Churchill Downs, offering cheap, filling, and interestingly spiced foods such as sambusas and nafaqo — a hard-boiled egg in a crust of potato and ground beef, a kind of African Scotch egg. $ L D CHEZ SENEBA AFRICAN RESTAURANT 4218 Bishop Ln., 473-8959. Offering another interesting ethnic cuisine to Louisville’s international dining scene, with generous portions of spicy Senegalese cuisine from West Africa. $ L D h FUNMI’S AFRICAN RESTAURANT 3028 Bardstown Rd., 454-5009. Billing itself as serving “Modern Nigerian Cuisine,” Funmi’s offers a range of dishes from North and Central African cultures. Sample goat in a soup or a thick stew. Try soya, a West African shish kebab with a spicy peanut rub or moin-moin, a savory bean cake or lablabi, a Tunisian chickpea soup. Vegetarian and vegan dishes are available as well. $$ L D MAA SHA ALLAH 4113 Bardstown Rd., 491-3152. The name is an Arabic blessing or expression of joy, meaning “Whatever Allah wants to give.” This little Buechel storefront is another example of the entrepreneurial spirit of recent immigrants, in this case from Senegal and Sierra Leone. The menu is African, the ambiance modest, the food spicy and tasty. $$ L D QUEEN OF SHEBA ETHIOPIAN 2804 Taylorsville Rd., 459-6301, 528 S. Fifth St., 589-5777. This authentic Ethiopian restaurant offers a wide selection of intriguing Ethiopian dishes, including a variety of vegetarian selections as well as the traditional beef and chicken specialties. Ethiopian fare is made for sharing and eating with the fingers, but they’ll gladly make forks available for the finicky. $ L D

A TASTE OF CHINA 1167 S. Fourth St., 585-5582. $ L D ASIAN BUFFET 3813 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 945-1888, 3646 Mall Rd., 479-9989. Competent cookery and careful management that ensures buffet offerings stay fresh and hot makes these buffets a good choice among the growing crowd of all-you-can-eat Asian spots. $ L D ASIAN MOON 1915 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 261-9998, 3360 Hikes Ln., 451-0077. $ L D AUGUST MOON 2269 Lexington Rd., 456-6569. August Moon’s secret ingredient is the culinary oversight of Chef Peng Looi, better known as the force behind Asiatique. Housed in a soaring, open space with a Zen master’s style. Consistent commitment in the kitchen and from the staff makes it a top spot for Asian fare. A lovely patio at the rear affords a pleasant alfresco dining experience. $$$ L D hpf BAMBOO HOUSE 4036 Poplar Level Rd., 451-3113. An old-timer among local Chinese restaurants, this Southeastern Louisville spot may not offer the trendiest Asian fare, but it’s a reliable source for the familiar Cantonese-American standards. $ L D

CHEER KING STAR 231 S. Fifth St., 587-8686. Just what downtown needed — a Chinese buffet for quick lunches. Mostly the familiar, a mix of Cantonese, Szechuan and Hunan choices for those who need a little spice to fire them up to get back to work. $ L D CHINA 1 123 Breckinridge Ln., 897-6511. $ L D CHINA BUFFET 706 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 288-8989. Chinese buffets are ubiquitous, but this one is squarely in the upper range. Regularly refreshed steam tables, attentively fried rice, and properly spicy General Tso’s Chicken raise it above the other places typical of the genre. $ L D CHINA CAFÉ 8625 Preston Hwy., 968-7450. $ L D CHINA CASTLE 7420 Third Street Rd., 367-4272. $ L D CHINA GARDEN 7309 Preston Hwy., 968-4672. A busy restaurant with the double pleasure of Chinese and American menu items. $ L D CHINA INN 1925 S. Fourth St., 636-2020. It’s not the posh, private Faculty Club, but this little Asian spot may be one of the most popular eateries around the University of Louisville’s Belknap Campus. $ L D CHINA KING 3830 Ruckriegel Pkwy., 240-0500. $ L D CHINA TASTE 135 Quartermaster Ct., Jeffersonville IN, 284-5580. $ L D CHINESE CHEF 2619 S. Fourth St., 634-0979. $ L D CHINESE EXPRESS 3228 Crums Ln., 448-1360. $ L D CHONG GARDEN 10341 Dixie Hwy., 935-1628. $ L D h CHOPSTICKS 416 E. Broadway, 589-9145. $ L D CHOPSTICKS HOUSE 2112 W. Broadway, 772-3231. $ L D CHUNG KING CHINESE AMERICAN RESTAURANT 110 E. Market St., 584-8880. $ L D CRYSTAL CHINESE 3901 W. Market St., 776-9702. $ L D DOUBLE DRAGON 1255 Goss Ave., 635-5656, 2600 W. Broadway, 778-2573. A standout among fast-food shopping-center Chinese eateries, Double Dragon hits on all cylinders, turning out consistently wellprepared and flavorful fare. $ L D DOUBLE DRAGON II 12480 LaGrange Rd., 241-7766, 6832 Bardstown Rd., 231-3973, 3179 S. Second St., 367-6668, 5222 Dixie Hwy., 448-1988. $ L D DOUBLE DRAGON 9 9501 Taylorsville Rd., 267-5353.$LD EASTERN HOUSE 5372 Dixie Hwy., 568-2688. $ L D EGGROLL MACHINE 1543 Bardstown Rd., 459-1259. The Chinese side of the menu at Café Mimosa is presented as The Egg Roll Machine, as opposed to the Vietnamese dishes on the fine dining Mimosa menu. All the expected Chinese favorites are here, including combination platters. $ L D hp EMPEROR OF CHINA 2210 Holiday Manor Center, 426-1717. One of Louisville’s fanciest and most noteworthy Chinese restaurants, the Emperor’s quarters are stylishly strewn across multiple levels of a former suburban movie theater. Outstanding. $$ L D hp EMPRESS OF CHINA 2249 Hikes Ln., 451-2500. Older sister to The Emperor of China, the Empress was one of Louisville’s first serious, authentic upscale Cantonese restaurants, and its fare still stands up to fancy spots in New York’s Chinatown. $$ L D hp FIRST WOK 3967 Seventh Street Rd., 448-0588. $ L D h GOLDEN BUDDHA 8000 Preston Hwy., 968-7700. $LDh GOLDEN PALACE BUFFET 161 Outer Loop, 368-2868. $$ L D GOLDEN STAR CHINESE RESTAURANT 3458 Taylor Blvd., 368-1833. $ L D h GOLDEN WALL 3201 Fern Valley Rd., 968-9717. $ L D GREAT WALL 2206 Brownsboro Rd., 891-8881. This Clifton restaurant ranks high up in the fast-food Chinese pack. Offering steaming-hot, competently prepared and flavorful dishes. $ L D h

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GREAT WOK 2502 Preston Hwy., 634-1918. Just about every shopping center in town has a fast-food Chinese spot, but this one stands out, generating a buzz of word-of-mouth publicity about its well-crafted Chinese dishes at a bargain-basement price. $ L D HAPPY CHINA 9106 Taylorsville Rd., 493-1001. $ L D HIBACHI SUSHI BUFFET 5316 Bardstown Rd., 4918228. Capitalizing on two seemingly persistent trends in American dining, this hot table place offers standard Chinese buffet dishes, and standard sushi choices. Cashew chicken, shrimp with garlic sauce, Dancing Dragon roll, spring and summer maki — it is all here. $$ L D HONG KONG CHINESE RESTAURANT 345 New Albany Plaza, New Albany IN, 945-1818. $ L D HONG KONG FAST FOOD 5312 S. Third St., 3678828. One of the many international eateries in Iroquois Manor, this fast-food Chinese spot offers Cantonese standards hot and fast and inexpensively. Check the daily specials for an occasional intriguing item. $ L D h

PANDA EXPRESS 1075 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN 288-0774. The Pentagon even has one of the 1500+ outlets of the nation’s largest Chinese fast food chains, and now Clarksville does too. Moderately priced chow such as orange chicken, Beijing beef, SweetFire chicken breast and honey walnut shrimp fill the menu. $ L D PEKING CITY BISTRO 12410 Shelbyville Rd., 2536777. A step up from the usual Chinese hot table fare. Chef Chen, highly thought of in the Chinese community, runs the kitchen. $ L D QUICK WOK 801 W. Broadway, 584-6519. $ L D RED SUN CHINESE RESTAURANT 3437 Breckinridge Ln., 499-7788. $ L D ROYAL GARDEN 5729 Preston Hwy., 969-3788. $ L D SHANGHAI RESTAURANT 526 S. Fifth St., 568-8833. $LD SICHUAN GARDEN 9850 Linn Station Rd., 426-6767.

intriguing array of appealing noodle and rice dishes from all over Asia with fast-food efficiency and prices happily matched by sit-down restaurant quality and style. $ L D f YEN CHING 1818 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-3581. $ L D YOU-CARRYOUT-A 1551 E. Tenth St., Jeffersonville IN, 288-8313, 827 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville IN, 282-8881. $ L D

SARI SARI FILIPINO CUISINE 2339 Frankfort Ave., 894-0585. The city’s first Filipino eatery offers a tasty introduction to the Malayo-Polynesian fare of this Southeast Asian island nation. Filipino dishes are affordable during the dinner hour and downright cheap on the lunch buffet. $ L D TAMBAYAN KARAOKE BAR & FILIPINO RESTAURANT 9601 Newbridge Rd., 749-2727. $$ L D h

HUNAN WOK 6445 Bardstown Rd., 231-0393. $ L D h JADE PALACE 1201 Herr Ln., 425-9878. Jade Palace is a decent place for Chinese food at any time, but don’t miss it at mid-day Friday through Monday, when it offers the metro area’s only dim sum (Chinese brunch) menu. $$ Br L D hp JASMINE 13823 English Villa Dr., 244-8896. A charming Asian eatery, where you can enjoy familiar ChineseAmerican plates or indulge your more adventurous side with more unusual authentic dishes from the “Chinese Menu,” available on request. $ L D f JUMBO BUFFET 2731 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 495-0028. Housed in a good-looking dining room, high on Chinatown-style glitz and glitter, Jumbo offers a standard all-you-can-eat Chinese buffet, with a larger-than-average selection of American dishes for those who want something less exotic. $$ L D h KING WOK 291 N. Hubbards Ln., 899-7188. Another of the city’s many tiny shopping-center fast-food Chinese eateries, King Wok offers all the familiar standards plus a small lunch buffet. $ L D h LING LING 10476 Shelbyville Rd., 245-2100. Modern and efficient in its East End shopping center location, Ling Ling is a cut above fast-food Chinese; better yet, it adds a few Vietnamese dishes to the bill of fare. $$ L D LIU’S GARDEN 11517 Shelbyville Rd., 244-9898. Small but charming, with white tablecloths and soft Chinese music, family-run Liu’s gains our approval with fresh, competent cookery and courteous, friendly service that makes you feel like you’re visiting a Chinese family at their home. $$ L D MING’S BUFFET 1971 Brownsboro Rd., 893-0822. Yet another large, shiny, all-you-can-eat Chinese buffet featuring mostly Chinese dishes with a few American-style items and sushi rolls. $ L D NEW CHINA 231 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 254-9299. $ L D ONION RESTAURANT TEA HOUSE 4211 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 981-0188. Masterful Chinese and Japanese cuisine (including magnificent hotpots, donburi dishes, and wooden-bucket steamed rice) set this airy restaurant apart from the horde of other Asian spots. $ L D f ORIENTAL HOUSE 4302 Shelbyville Rd., 897-1017. New owners continue the tradition at this longstanding St. Matthews restaurant, featuring both traditional Chinese-American and now, authentic Cantonese, menus. $ L D p ORIENTAL STAR 4212 Bishop Ln., 452-9898. A longtime area favorite in this heavy traffic lunch area. This establishment is quite good with Lo Mein Noodles, and Sweet and Sour Chicken. $ L D PANDA CHINESE RESTAURANT 9543 U.S. 42., 228-6400. $ L D

Another Asian restaurant that has stood the test of time, Sichuan Garden offers high-end Chinatown style and well-made dishes, plus a few Thai specialties to spice up the bill of fare. $ L D TEA STATION CHINESE BISTRO 9422 Norton Commons Blvd., 423-1202. This comfortable, sitdown Chinese restaurant owned and operated by Paul and Amy Yang joins the small but growing cluster of businesses in the Norton Commons village center. $$ L D h WOK EXPRESS 234 W. Broadway, 583-8988. $ L D h WONTON EXPRESS 3000 Hikes Ln., 452-2646. Traditional Chinese fare. Family-owned-and-operated, this popular neighborhood establishment has enjoyed a steady patronage for seventeen years. $ L D YANG KEE NOODLE 7900 Shelbyville Rd. (Oxmoor Mall), 426-0800. This locally owned and operated Oxmoor spot is colorful and stylish. It offers an

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

ARATA SUSHI 9207 US 42, 409-4880. Prospect gets a sleek sushi place, with crisp dark modern interior, well-prepared fresh fish and rolls, and a fine selection of sakes. $$ L D p ASAHI JAPANESE 3701 Lexington Rd., 895-1130. This small room in St. Matthews houses this neighborhood sushi spot where award-winning Chef Yong Bong Tak, formerly of Osaka, works his magic at the sushi bar. $ L D BEIJING GRILL AND SUSHI BAR 8007 Hwy. 311, Sellersburg IN, 248-0900. $ L D h BENDOYA SUSHI BAR 217 S. Fifth St., 581-0700. Adding international flair to its downtown neighborhood, Bendoya is a genuine, serious sushi bar in

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a storefront just across the street from the courthouse. $$ L CAVIAR JAPANESE RESTAURANT 416 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 625-3090. (See listing under Upscale Casual.) CHOI’S ASIAN FOOD MARKET 607 Lyndon Ln., 426-4441. This suburban Asian grocery now serves hot table fare to enjoy between shopping. $ L D DANCING SUSHI JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE 2809 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 384-3387. $$ L D DRAGON KING’S DAUGHTER 1126 Bardstown Rd., 632-2444. Owner Toki Masubuchi‘s audacious take on fusion cuisine seems to have hit a nerve at this popular café at the corner of Bardstown Rd. and Elmwood. The eclectic and somewhat funky menu builds on traditional Japanese ingredients with unexpected twists:, pizza topped with sashimi, and tacos filled with avocado tempura. $ L D hpf FUJI ASIAN BISTRO 6801 Dixie Hwy., 937-0488. $$LDp FUJI JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE 3576 Springhurst Blvd., 339-1978, 12905 Shelbyville Rd., 253-0036. Part of the fun of sitting at the sushi bar is that you get to watch the chef at work. Put in your order, then sit back and sip your tea while the artist creates edible delights. This suburban sushi bar does the job well. $$ L D hp HANABI JAPANESE RESTAURANT 6027 Timber Ridge Dr., 228-8244. A hospitable welcome, casual setting, and well-fashioned sushi and Japanese specialties have made this family run Prospect spot a worthy alternative in the East End dining scene. $$ L D hp HEART & SOY 1216 Bardstown Rd., 452-6678. To the left is Roots, a sit-down restaurant. To the right is Heart & Soy, serving vegetarian “street food,” and entertaining passers-by with a glass-walled tofumaking room. State-of-the-art equipment from Taiwan transforms organic soy beans from Ohio into soy milk and then coagulates and presses it into tofu as you watch. $ L D HIKO A MON SUSHI BAR 1115 Herr Ln., 365-1651. Japanese-trained chef Norihiko Nakanashi brings his artistic skills to this sushi bar and Japanese grill in Westport Village. In addition to fine dining at the bar or in traditional Japanese dining rooms, Hiko A Mon offers sushi-grade fish from a small fish market. $$$ L D hp ICHIBAN SAMURAI 1510 Lake Shore Ct., 412-3339. This large Japanese-farmhouse building, originally a Benihana, offers similar delights, with the traditional slice-and-dice food show and good sushi. Best deal, while the offer lasts: All-you-can-eat sushi nightly until the karaoke starts at 9 p.m. $$$ L D p KAILANA SUSHI 6435 Bardstown Rd., 614-7244. Fern Creek gets another choice in sushi bars, with generous rolls priced competitively — nothing over $12. Four levels of 13-piece, mix and match lunch specials, as well as rice, noodles and salads. $$ L D h KANSAI JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE 1370 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 218-9538, 1850 S. Hurst bourne Pkwy., 618-1870. Traditional Japanese dishes and sushi are available here, but like most Japanese Steakhouses, choose the grill tables with their slice-and-dice Japanese chef show for maximum entertainment. $$$ L D hp KOBE STEAK HOUSE 301 S. Indiana Ave., Jeffersonville IN, 280-8500. Southern Indiana’s first serious Japanese restaurant has been drawing crowds with its exceptional sushi bar, with skilled and friendly chefs who can be relied on to fashion fresh and tasty bites that are just about certain to please. $$$ L D p MASA JAPANESE 12336 Shelbyville Rd., 409-5040. Middletown, too, joins in the sushi expansion. Open for lunch and dinner, the standard menu is bolstered by daily chef’s specials. Lunch specials include the Japadawg, a hot dog with Japanese toppings, a range of teriyaki choices and ramen noodles, Japanese style. $$ L D h 78 Spring 2013 www.foodanddine.com

MIKATO JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE 3938 Dupont Circle, 891-0081. An upscale hibachi grillhouse in the popular restaurant ring in the Breckinridge Lane — Dupont Circle area. Pleasant decor, entertaining grill chefs, fresh sushi preparations, and sometimes glacial service. $$ L D hpf OASIS SUSHI & SOUL 3311 Preston Hwy., 3758766. Owners of downtown’s Bendoya Sushi Bar have opened this Japanese restaurant on Preston Highway. $$ D h OISHII SUSHI 2810 Taylorsville Rd., 365-3474. This small, attractive and popular sushi spot has contracted to a single location near Bowman Field. $$ L D h OSAKA SUSHI BAR 2039 Frankfort Ave., 894-9501, 426 W. Market St., 588-8899. This long-standing Clifton favorite also has a second location downtown, serving up sushi and other Japanese dishes in a bright and cheery environment to a loyal clientele. $$ L D ROOTS 1216 Bardstown Rd., 452-6688. Coco Tran, who has nurtured a loyal Clifton-area fan base with her Zen Garden, looks to seduce the vegan/ vegetarian world of the Highlands with this crisp, elegant room. Eat at tables in the front, enjoy smoothies and tea at the bar, or snuggle down in a Japanese pit table in the back. Choose from an international selection of small plates. $ L D SAKE BLUE JAPANESE BISTRO 9326 Cedar Center Way, 708-1500. This Fern Creek restaurant brings the “full-service” Japanese restaurant experience to the southeast part of Louisville Metro. Look for hibachi grill tables and a sushi bar, along with a traditional dining room and cocktail bar. $$ L D hp SAKURA BLUE 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 897-3600. Located in elegant, upscale quarters in a St. Matthews shopping center, Sakura Blue — direct descendant of the old, popular Bonsai — ranks among the city’s top sushi bars. $$ L D h SAPPORO JAPANESE GRILL & SUSHI 1706 Bardstown Rd., 479-5550, 649 S. Fourth St., 589-3333. With its original location in the middle of Bardstown Road’s “restaurant row,” trendy, glitzy Sapporo has established itself as one of the city’s top spots for sushi and Japanese fare. Its second location is in a beautifully designed space in Theater Square off Broadway downtown. $$$ L D hp SATO’S ZEN SUSHI & SAKE 285 N. Hubbards Ln., 893-8901. The menu of this Japanese restaurant boasts “Zen salads,” soups, sushi, green tea, red bean and tempura ice cream, and a variety of flavored sakes. $$ L D h SHOGUN JAPANESE STEAK HOUSE 9026 Taylorsville Rd., 499-5700, 4110 Hampton Lake Way, 3940123. Shogun’s decor is attractive, and quality food and service make it a pleasant dining destination. It’s unthreatening enough to appeal to those who find exotic cuisine “challenging,” but good enough to satisfy just about anyone who craves a Japanese dinner or a bite of sushi. $$$ L D hp STAR SUSHI 2781 Jefferson Centre Way, Jeffersonville IN, 725-8444. Is there a surfeit of sushi around the area? Even Jeffersonville now has its own source of yellowtail rolls, sashimi and nigiri, which is drawing fans for the freshness and flavor of its offerings, and its very fair price point. $$ L D TOKYO JAPANESE RESTAURANT 2415 Lime Kiln Ln., 339-7171. It’s appealing, pleasant in atmosphere and friendly in service, and most important, this East End sushi bar serves excellent Japanese treats, prepared with care and flair from highquality, impeccably fresh ingredients. $$ L D TOMO 4315 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 9410200. This Japanese hibachi steak house offers a good show of knife skills and tableside grilling, as well as sushi. Patrons seem to admire the oversize

sushi rolls, the salads with ginger dressing, and the grilled chicken and scallops. $$ L D p WASABIYA JAPANESE RESTAURANT 972 Baxter Ave., 618-2460. A neighborhood sushi bar, with a chef from Boston with fusion cuisine intentions. Look for some unusual items, like the sake kinuta, salmon wrapped in marinated daikon radish with a citrus sauce, or a fatty tuna carpaccio with white wine reduction and ponzu sauce. $$ L D h WILD GINGER SUSHI & FUSION 1700 Bardstown Rd., 384-9252. The old Café Metro space did not molder long — this sushi and Asian fusion spot has been pulling in intrigued customers who admire the sushi bar up front, and explore the pan-Asian menu. Standard Japanese entrées are joined with specials from Korea (bibim bop) China (Sichuanstyle crispy tofu) and Thailand (pad Thai and curries). $$ L D hp

CHARIM KOREAN RESTAURANT 4123 Oeschli Ave., 290-8900. This St. Matthews site behind the Old Sears building housed several other restaurants, and now the promise of Korean food in St. Matthews has many ethnic food fans salivating. $ L D KOREANA II 5009 Preston Hwy., 968-9686. One of the city’s few restaurants devoted entirely to authentic Korean fare, Koreana is worth a special trip for this ethnic cuisine that offers a hearty, spicy alternative to the more familiar Chinese. $$ L D LEE’S KOREAN RESTAURANT 1941 Bishop Ln., 456-9714. This little spot has been a secret since the ’70s, and it just keeps on going. Walk into what looks like a diner in an office building, but push past the counter to the back room, where you’ll find generous heaps of really authentic Korean food for next to nothing. $$ L D h SOORA KOREAN RESTAURANT 2840 Goose Creek Rd., 339-5888. The big space on Goose Creek has seen a lot of ethnic food service in the last few years — Latino, Turkish, and now Korean. If you are familiar with Korean foods, there will be little to surprise you. Barbecues and bee bim bop. $$ L D

BD’S MONGOLIAN GRILL 1890 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 499-4406. The proprietors of this Michiganbased East End chain invite you to “go Mongo,” building your own choice of ingredients and sauces for the chefs to stir-fry. $$ L D hpf GENGHIS GRILL 4002 Towne Center Dr., 4264945. The chain of Asian stir-fry restaurants has been steadily moving northward from its Dallas home base. At this suburban location just beyond the Gene Snyder Freeway you can choose one of their dozen “signature bowls” including Szechuan bamboo beef, ginger herb shrimp, Mexican jalapeno and chipotle steak. Or design your own from a choice of protein, vegetables, sauces and starches. $$ L D p SHAH’S MONGOLIAN GRILL 9148 Taylorsville Rd., 493-0234, 423 E. Warnock St., 409-5029. Thirteenth Century Mongol warriors used to turn their steel shields to use as frying pans over the campfire, using their swords as spoons. Shah’s carries their spirit forward. This all-you-can-eat buffet is fun, and the food is fine. $$ L D

MAI’S THAI RESTAURANT 1411 E. Tenth St., Jeffersonville IN, 282-0198. With a broad range of well-prepared and authentic Thai dishes, Mai’s is the eatery to beat among the metro area’s Thai restaurants. For both authenticity and quality, it’s right up there with the top Thai places in New York, San Francisco and Seattle. $ L D

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

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SALA THAI 8125 Bardstown Rd., 231-1992, 10403 Glenmary Farm Dr., 493-3944. This entry on the growing list of Thai restaurants is gaining fans, partly because it is vegetarian- and vegan-friendly. $$ L D SIMPLY THAI 323 Wallace Ave., 899-9670, 12003 Shelbyville Rd, 690-8344. Owner Mahn Saing is Burmese; his wife, a classically trained Thai chef have built upon the popularity of their St. Matthews spot and opened a second location in Middletown. Their menu of traditional Thai dishes, well-made sushi and a few upscale Thaistyle “fusion” dinner items use many ingredients from their small home garden. $$ L D f TAN THAI RESTAURANT 4510 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 948-2012. It’s in a strip mall, but the folks who run TanThai create a distinctive atmosphere by hanging sheer white scrims that divvy the room up into serene little chambers. The menu of Thai specialties is small — just a dozen or so entrées — but nicely executed and beautifully presented. $ L D

of Vietnamese, Thai and Chinese fare in a simple setting that transcends an obviously low budget with style and grace. $ L D h NAMNAM CAFÉ 318 Wallace Ave., 891-8859. This small St. Matthews Vietnamese restaurant has gained many enthusiastic fans who flock there for the pho, the banh mi and other authentic Vietnamese dishes. $ L D f PEARL Horseshoe Casino Hotel, Elizabeth IN, 888-7662648. Vietnamese and Chinese cuisine, elegantly served, Pearl is the newest dining choice at Horseshoe Casino. Signature dishes include Vietnamese spring rolls, pho, ginger and scallion fried lobster and crispy salt and pepper shrimp. $$ L D hp PHO BINH MINH 6709 Strawberry Ln., 375-9249. Tiny and lovably cozy, this six-table South End spot is true authentic Vietnamese, and so are the proprietors. There’s some language barrier, but the owners are so friendly, and the food so good, that

ZEN GARDEN 2240 Frankfort Ave., 895-9114. Vegetarians with a philosophical bent have found a combination guru and den mother in Zen Garden’s owner Coco, who serves up sincere and soulful Asian vegan dishes. $ L D h

BOSNA-MAK 3825 Old Bardstown Rd., 456-1919. Friendly and exceptionally hospitable, family-owned Bosna-Mak celebrates the heritage of the owners and chefs in Bosnia and Macedonia in the Balkans and picks up a few culinary additions from their time in Germany. $ L D

BISTRO LE RELAIS 2817 Taylorsville Rd. (Bowman Field), 451-9020. This art deco spot makes stylish use of an historic 1920s airport building

THAI CAFÉ 2226 Holiday Manor Center, 425-4815. You’ll find this small café tucked into a corner of the “Holiday Manor Walk.” Owner Chavantee Snow and her family offer a small but well-prepared selection of authentic Thai dishes at very reasonable prices. $ L D f THAI SIAM 3002 Bardstown Rd., 458-6871. Louisville’s first Thai restaurant, this venerable spot has built a loyal audience over the years, perhaps responding to its regular visitors’ preferences with food that’s a bit on the tame side for Thai. $$ L D

JAPANESE

GRILL

AND

SUSHI

SAPPOROJAPANESE.COM 1706 BARDSTOWN RD. 502.479.5550

THAI SMILE 5 5800 Preston Hwy., 961-9018. Part of a regional mini-chain, Thai Smile 5 serves up simple but well-prepared Thai fare. Don’t ask for the fivechile-pepper heat unless you really mean it! $ L D THAI TASTE 1977 Brownsboro Rd., 897-7682. The owner-host of this friendly, casual spot in Crescent Hill had a restaurant in Bangkok before moving to Louisville, and his experience shows. The warmth of his welcome — and the quality of the food — make Thai Taste special. $ L D

649 SOUTH 4TH ST. 502.589.3333

ANNIE CAFE 308 W. Woodlawn Ave., 363-4847. Annie Cafe ranks not just as one of the better Vietnamese restaurants, but one the city’s best of any variety, particularly when value and price are taken into account. Authentic Vietnamese food is made with care and served with pride. $ L D BANH MI HERO 2245 Bardstown Rd., 456-2022. The traditional Vietnamese sandwich, based on the colonial French paté-filled baguette, but with the addition of Asian condiments, meets American fusion food in this imaginative sandwich shop. Seven versions of the sandwich, plus Asian tacos and rice bowls, washed down with Vietnamese coffee, jasmine tea or exotic Asian canned soft drinks. Or Coke products if you have to. $ L D

DINNER ONLY HIBACHI GRILL RESERVATIONS RECOMMENDED it’s worth the effort if you love real Asian fare and inexpensive prices. $ L D

CAFÉ MIMOSA 1543 Bardstown Rd., 459-1259. Owner Phat Le, serving his Vietnamese, Chinese and pan-Asian dishes to happy regulars, might finally wean Louisvillians from referring to his building as the former Lentini’s. $ L D hp

SAIGON CAFÉ 108 Fairfax Ave., 893-7757. St. Matthews diners can find tasty and inexpensive Southeast Asian fare here — Vietnamese, Thai and Chinese dishes are all choices on the menu. $$ L D h

CAFÉ THUY VAN 5600 National Turnpike, 366-6959. A bit off the beaten track, this South End spot is true, authentic Vietnamese. Friendly service overcomes any language barrier, and prices are hard to beat. Don’t miss the banh mi, traditional Vietnamese sandwiches. $ L D

SAIGON ONE 333 W. Cardinal Blvd., 638-8989. Vietnamese cuisine joins the choices for residents, with this addition to the dining array at the new university dorm and restaurant row at Cardinal Towne (where Masterson’s used to be). $ L D h

LA QUE 1019 Bardstown Rd., 238-3981. La Que provides the lower Highlands with a dependable, economical Vietnamese menu that includes some dishes from other Asian cuisines. $$ L D hf LEMONGRASS CAFÉ 11606 Shelbyville Rd., 2447110. Lemongrass Café offers an appealing blend

VIETNAM KITCHEN 5339 Mitscher Ave., 363-5154. This little South End storefront is well worth seeking out. The chef goes beyond the ordinary, preparing authentic Vietnamese dishes of unusual subtlety and flavor. We have yet to be disappointed with the quality of the food or service. $ L D h

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

to present elegant modern French cuisine. Chef Alexander Dulaney and owner Anthony Dike’s refocus of the restaurant around a bistro menu continues its popularity. $$$$ D pfe GHYSLAIN 721 E. Market St., 690-8645, 1215 Herr Ln., 690-6001. This French bistro, run by French-Canadian chocolatiers, is expanding into a second Westport Village location. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, serving grilled baguettes, croque monsieurs, panini, quiches, soups, salads, and fine chocolates. $$ L D LA COOP: BISTRO À VINS 732 E. Market St., 4102888. One of the hottest spots in NuLu. Uber talented chef Bobby Benjamin is turning out classic French bistro fare with some modern twists, an idea that keeps his little place packed with happy diners. $$$ B L D hpf LOUIS LE FRANCAIS 133 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 944-1222. This charming French bistro www.facebook.com/foodanddine Spring 2013 79

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extends the range of international dining options in New Albany. Louis “Louis the Frenchman” Retailleau serves a menu typical of the cuisine of his native southwest France. $$$$ D p

EIDERDOWN 983 Goss Ave., 290-2390. The owners of the Germantown watering hole Nachbar also operate the popular Eiderdown, serving Southern comfort food influenced by the owners’ German and European heritage. Dreams of a microbrewery there also dance in their heads; in the meantime, diners are satisfied with a large selection of European craft beers on tap. $$ L D h ERIKA’S GERMAN RESTAURANT 9301 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy. 499-8822. For a city with a strong German heritage, Louisville is woefully short on authentic German restaurants, but this genuinely Germanic eatery attracts hungry crowds to Hurstbourne. Take care not to miss its former fast-food quarters just off I-64 local access ramp. $$ D GASTHAUS 4812 Brownsboro Center, 899-7177. Michael and Annemarie Greipel came here with their five kids in 1993, straight from North RhineWestphalia to St. Matthews. Tiny lights twinkle from strands of fake red geraniums. But the hearty German fare — schnitzels, sauerbraten and rouladen with red cabbage and dumplings — is the real thing. $$$ D

IRISH EXIT 209 E. Main St., New Albany IN, 944-1929. The Irish Exit (a tongue-in-cheek name referring to the quiet, no-farewell leave-taking of inebriated Hibernians) serves pub fare and entertains patrons with karaoke and acoustic music, pool tables and dart boards. $ D hpe IRISH ROVER 2319 Frankfort Ave., 899-3544, 117 E. Main St, LaGrange, 222-2286. Owner Michael Reidy is the Irish rover, having come to the U.S. from County Clare in 1984. His saloons are as smooth as Guinness, as warm as fish and chips, as genuine as Scotch eggs. The Frankfort Avenue building dates from 1859. $ Br L D pf MOLLY MALONE’S 933 Baxter Ave., 473-1222, 3900 Shelbyville Rd., 882-2222. A carefully constructed replica of a modern urban Irish pub, Molly Malone’s, a worthy addition to the city’s eating and drinking scene, has added a second, suburban location. Both are as authentically Irish as the Wearin’ o’ the Green. $$ L D hpfe MORE SHENANIGAN’S 4521 Bardstown Rd., 4933585. $ L D hpfe O’SHEA’S TRADITIONAL IRISH PUB 956 Baxter Ave., 589-7373. One of the most popular watering holes in the entire Bardstown-Baxter corridor. Twenty-somethings and Louisville belles love its action. But diners of all ages like its meat loaf, roast beef and Irish stew. When music fills the rooms, it’s great to be Irish, even if you’re not. $$ L D hpfe PATRICK O’SHEA’S 123 W. Main St., 708-2488. This downtown Irish bar was one of the first to open in the Whiskey Row complex, anticipating the revival of that edge of the Main Street corridor. Crowds have been elbowing in for upscale Irish-inflected bar food and plenty of sports talk. Now the owners have rehabbed the funky underpinnings of their building into a bar area and dubbed it “The Cellar,” focusing on an aggressive Bourbon program and live entertainment. $$ L D hpfe RI RA IRISH PUB 445 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live) 587-1825. Promising patrons “an authentic Irish experience,” this growing chain is ensconced in a sizable 9,000-square-foot space in Fourth Street Live. Ri Ra (Gaelic for “celebration and good fun”) decorates its pubs with authentic furnishings from Ireland. $$$ L D hpfe 80 Spring 2013 www.foodanddine.com

SHENANIGAN’S IRISH GRILL 1611 Norris Pl., 4543919. Not just a neighborhood tavern (although it’s a fine neighborhood tavern), Irish-accented Shenanigan’s goes an extra step with an estimable selection of memorable burgers. $ L D hpfe

ADRIENNE’S ITALIAN RESTAURANT 129 W. Court Ave., Jeffersonville IN, 282-2665. A part of the dining renaissance on the sunny side of Louisville, Adrienne’s has been pleasing Indiana diners with home-style Italian dishes. The owners also operate Adrienne’s Bakery in Jeffersonville. $$ L D AMICI 316 W. Ormsby Ave., 637-3167. Satisfying traditional Tuscan dishes are served in this interesting — and supposedly haunted — Old Louisville building. Dine inside or on the romantic patio on a lovely summer evening, There’s no extra charge if the ghosts want to share your penne alla Lorenzo or Valpolicella. $$ L D pf ANSELMO’S ITALIAN BISTRO 1511 Bardstown Rd., 749-0444. Highland residents hankering for simple, traditional, filling Italian dishes can find just that in this Italian bistro. The menu offers what one would expect: pizza, pastas, lasagna — at reasonable prices. $$ L D hp BISTRO 42 6021 Timber Ridge Dr., 632-2552. Another entry in the dining choices at Prospect Village shopping center. This little family-run place, serving pasta, sandwiches and Italian and American dishes is proud of its 5-cheese 3-meat Bistro lasagna and their 3-hour honey-baked ham, offered at an attractive price. $$ L D hpfe BUCA DI BEPPO 2051 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 4932426. Buca di Beppo’s recipe has all the necessary ingredients: huge portions of excellent food served with flair and the Buca scene is fun, a conscious parody of the exuberant decor of family ItalianAmerican restaurants of the 1950s. $$ L D hp CARRABBA’S ITALIAN GRILL 617 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 412-2218. Not your ordinary suburban shopping-center franchise eatery. This place dramatically exceeds expectations. From warmed bread dishes with quality olive oil to first-rate Italian-American fare at reasonable prices. $$$ L D

hpf

COME BACK INN 909 Swan St., 627-1777, 415 Spring St., Jeffersonville IN, 285-1777. With both its branches located in urban neighborhoods, Come Back Inn looks pretty much like any other neighborhood saloon. But unlike most Louisville neighborhood saloons, this one houses a family Italian spot that wouldn’t be out of place in Chicago or Brooklyn. $$ L D p DIFABIO’S CASAPELA ITALIAN RESTAURANT 2311 Frankfort Ave., 891-0411. DiFabio’s Casapela has made its mark in this Crescent Hill space, with a menu that harks back to the red-checked tablecloth and Chianti bottle era of Italian restaurants. Look for baked stuffed mushrooms and toasted ravioli, veal parmesan and chicken piccata, and your choice of pastas with your choice of sauce. $$ D f THE INTERNATIONAL MALL 737 S. Eighth St., 561-8871. $ L D LA BOCCA 134 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 725-9495. This addition to the dining explosion in New Albany serves Italian cuisine, such as chicken piccata and rigatoni Bolognese. Zeppole on the dessert menu bespeaks the New York bono fides of the owner. $$ L D pf

and pizzas a comfortable approximation of a Tuscan trattoria. An open kitchen with wood-fired oven gives a peek at the culinary goings-on. $$$ L D hpf OLD SPAGHETTI FACTORY 235 W. Market St., 5811070. One of the original ventures of this national firm. Bright and noisy, it offers well-made if basic Italian family fare and dishes it out for surprisingly low prices. $$ L D hp THE OLIVE GARDEN 1320 Hurstbourne Pkwy., 3397190, 9730 Von Allmen Ct., 425-3607, 4805 Outer Loop, 968-2978, 1230 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 218-8304. The top property of the Darden chain, Olive Garden now operates more than 500 properties and bills itself as the leading Italian restaurant in the casual dining industry. Hearty pastas of all shapes and sauces, appetizers and combo platters all carry the Italian theme. $$ L D hp PESTO’S ITALIAN RESTAURANT 566 S. Fifth St., 584-0567. Offices for blocks around empty into this bustling Italian eatery for weekday lunches featuring hearty platters of lasagna, zesty salads, red wine and iced tea. On Saturdays, the kitchen switches over to a special Persian menu. $$ L D PORCINI 2730 Frankfort Ave., 894-8686. This anchor trattoria of the Crescent Hill dining scene has been serving up risotto, ossobuco and bistecca since 1992. Crowds wait at the popular bar for one of the tables — or just wait at the bar. $$$ L D hpfe QUATTRO 450 S. Fourth St., 618-1904. The shortlived Mozzaria has morphed into Quattro, which sees the return of Bim Deitrich to the Louisville scene. Josh Hillyard is the chef. $$ L D hpfe ROCKY’S SUB PUB 715 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville, IN, 282-3844. (See review under Pizza.) ROMANO’S MACARONI GRILL 401 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 423-9220. The Italian-style menu at this casual, Dallas-based family chain includes appetizers, salads, pastas, veal and desserts. Chefs entertain while creating wood-fired pizzas. $$ L D hp SPAGHETTI SHOP 4657 Outer Loop, 969-5545, 4510 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 944-5400. Baked pasta dishes, subs, salads and appetizers are prepared while you wait. $ L D STEVE-O’S ITALIAN KITCHEN 4205 W. Hwy. 146, LaGrange KY, 222-0300. Outstanding pizzas and fine family-style Italian-American dishes make this casual eatery just off I-71 at Buckner well worth a special trip out from the city. $$ L D TUSCANY ITALIAN RESTAURANT 165 Outer Loop, 363-0308. Adding an appetizing option to a stretch of the South End that hasn’t been over-served by restaurants, this good-sized storefront near New Cut Road boasts a Mexican chef who demonstrates an expert’s hand with hearty, red-sauced ItalianAmerican fare at a price that’s right. $$ L D hp VINCENZO’S 150 S. Fifth St., 580-1350. (See listing under Upscale Casual.) VOLARE 2300 Frankfort Ave., 894-4446. The name evokes Sinatra, pasta with tomato sauce and candles in Chianti bottles, but stylish Volare kicks that image up a notch. With a combination of Italian standards and monthly menu updates, Chef Josh Moore has secured Volare a top spot for suave Italian dining. Its U.S.D.A. Prime barrel-cut beef program has received rave reviews. $$$ D hpfe

LA GALLO ROSSO BISTRO 1325 Bardstown Rd., 4730015. This small but attractive Highlands spot in the Shoppes on the Alley serves casual Italian and Continental food in a cozy family-style setting. $$ D f

DE LA TORRE’S 1606 Bardstown Rd., 456-4955. Authentic Castilian fare includes a majestic paella. But the renewed focus at this Highlands standby is tapas, in such variety that you can have anything on the menu in small-plates form. $$$ D hp

MARTINI ITALIAN BISTRO 4021 Summit Plaza Dr. 394-9797. Now locally owned, Martini’s continues to serve hearty, well-fashioned Italian entrées, pastas

LA BODEGA 1604 Bardstown Rd., 456-4955. Next door to the excellent De La Torre’s Spanish restaurant, La Bodega offers diners the city’s most authentic Spanish-

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

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style tapas bar, featuring the small bites originally invented in the outdoor cafés of Jerez. $$ D hp LA COLOMBIANA 808 Lyndon Ln., 742-1179. Colombian cuisine is a variant of Latino cooking new to the area. Many of the dishes at this Lyndon-area restaurant feature the arepa, a thick corn cake, including huevos pericos conrepa, a brunch dish. Look for plenty of beef on the menu, including lengua, tongue. Friendly service and no language barrier. $$ L D p MOJITO TAPAS RESTAURANT 2231 Holiday Manor Center, 425-0949. An offshoot of the popular St. Matthews Cuban restaurant Havana Rumba, Mojito quickly established its own identity as the East End spot for Spanish-inspired small plates with a global taste profile. Always crowded on weekends; no reservations, but call ahead to get high on the waiting list. $$ L D hpf PALERMO VIEJO 1359 Bardstown Rd., 456-6461. Louisville’s best source for authentic Argentine cooking: lots of beef (and chicken) slow-cooked over charcoal and Latin versions of Italian dishes, like chicken Milanesa. Palermo Viejo is the Little Italy of Buenos Aires, hometown of owner Francisco Elbl’s father. $$ D pf

cozy environment. That’s the recipe that makes Al Watan a destination for lovers of fine Middle Eastern fare. $ L D BURNING BUSH GRILLE 13206 W. U.S. Highway 42, 228-7776. A franchisee of the popular Shiraz local mini-chain has struck off on his own, cooking healthy Mediterranean foods — kebabs, steak, fish and lamb, salads, pizza, gyros and Balkan burgers. $ L D f CAFÉ 360 1582 Bardstown Rd., 473-8694. Highlands diners enjoy an eclectic and international menu at the friendly corner place, with Southern fried catfish and Indian lamb biryani in immediate juxtaposition. You can get it all, diner-style, just about 24/7. $ B L D hpf THE FALAFEL HOUSE 1001 Bardstown Rd., 4544407. This small Highlands spot is strategically situated to offer quick and affordable sustenance along the Bardstown-Baxter entertainment strip. Look for the usual Middle Eastern fare in a casual, quick-service setting. $$ L D hf

largely confined to that of the Levant schwarmas and hummus and flafel. $$ L D h PITA DELIGHTS 1616 Grinstead Dr., 569-1122. This Near Eastern eatery in the Highlands offers a splendid mix of gyros, falafel and other pita-based goodies. $$ L D PITA HUT 1613 Bardstown Rd., 409-8484. After its expansion more than doubled the space in this once-tiny spot, more diners can enjoy MediterraneanMiddle Eastern favorites, as well as the addition of a few “American” sandwiches — on fresh pita, of course. $ L D PITA PIT 9816 Linn Station Rd., 565-1220. A franchise operation dedicated to cramming all sorts of fillings into a flatbread pocket. Chomp on a chicken Caesar pita, or a Philly steak pita. Many veggie selections, from garden vegetables to falafel to hummus and baba ganoush. They’re open for breakfast too: ham ’n’ eggs and sausage scramble to go. $ L D

BOMBAY GRILL 216 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 425-8892. With its broad array of Indian regional specialties including the requisite lunch buffet, this spot in The Forum on Hurstbourne is winning praise for its aromatic flavors and bountiful portions. $$ L D DAKSHIN INDIAN RESTAURANT 4742 Bardstown Rd., 491-7412. Owned and operated by the same family that brings us Kashmir Restaurant and Bombay Grocery in the Highlands, this addition brings aromatic and spicy Southern Indian fare to the Buechel-Fern Creek neighborhood in the Eastland Shopping Center. $$ B L D p KASHMIR INDIAN RESTAURANT 1277 Bardstown Rd., 473-8765. One of the city’s most popular Indian restaurants, Kashmir is casual, neither posh nor expensive, and it produces an extensive menu of seemingly authentic Indian fare. $$ L D hf LITTLE INDIA CAFÉ 3099 Breckenridge Ln., 479-3353. It’s sort of an Indian fast-food place, set up in a former Quizno’s. The menu includes appetizers such as lentil soup and mirchi bajji — fried lentil-battered stuffed peppers — followed by Northern lamb and vegetarian entrées, tandoori chicken and kebabs. There’s also a selection of Indian breads. A Punjabistyle (Northern Indian) lunch buffet is for those who want really fast service. $ L D f SHALIMAR INDIAN RESTAURANT 1820 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 493-8899. Modern and sleek in appearance, modest in price, this restaurant has become the patriarch of local Indian restaurants. With a substantial lunch buffet and a full range of dinner items, it has built a loyal clientele. $$ L D SITAR INDIAN RESTAURANT 1702 Bardstown Rd., 473-8889. Named after the Indian stringed musical instrument that Ravi Shankar made famous, Sitar features a full Indian menu and an impressively tasty buffet. It’s the first Louisville property for a tiny new chain with four places in Tennessee and one in Alabama. $$ L D TAJ PALACE 2929 Goose Creek Rd., 423-9692. Focused on Northern Indian cuisine, the menu offers a wide range of chicken, lamb, seafood and vegetarian dishes. Spiciness can be decided by the customer. Lunch buffet and dinner menu. $$ L D f

AL WATAN 3713 Klondike Ln., 454-4406. Classic Arabic dishes home-cooked by friendly people in a

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GRAPE LEAF 2217 Frankfort Ave., 897-1774. Relatively recent renovations and an expanded menu have elevated the Grape Leaf to destination status, placing it well above the generic Middle Eastern eatery niche. Prices remain affordable, while the food and mood now justify a special trip. $$ L D f

SAFFRON’S 131 W. Market St., 584-7800. Although Majid Ghavami has sold his interest in his downtown Persian restaurant, he sold it to Reza and Mimi Dabbagh, (she also co-owns August Moon), who are keeping on most of the staff and continuing with the popular menu: rack of lamb, roasted duck fesenjoon, salomon and kebabs. $$$ L D pf

MIRAGE MEDITERRANEAN RESTAURANT 4100 Preston Hwy., 363-7788. The owners of Little Jerusalem lost their lease on Taylor Blvd., and found a new location in a former pizza joint out on Preston, which continues to grow its own international restaurant row. Gyros, hummus, falafel — what one would expect, but done with attention to details and a flair for flavor. $$ L D f

SAFIER MEDITERRANEAN DELI 641 S. Fourth St., 585-1125. You can get standard American fare at this welcoming downtown quick-eats spot, but who’d do that when you can enjoy such appetizing Arabian delights as hummus, mutabal, falafels and the gyros-like (only better) shawarma beef-on-pita sandwich. $ L D f

PETRA MEDITERRANEAN RESTAURANT 3904 Bardstown Rd., 749-0924. Another addition to the ethnic choices out in Beuchel. As with many “Mediterranean” restaurants around, the fare is

SHIRAZ MEDITERRANEAN GRILL 2011 Frankfort Ave., 891-8854, 2226 Holiday Manor Center, 4269954, 201 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 426-3440, 3521 Poplar Level Rd., 632-2232. From a tiny neighborhood

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storefront, Shiraz quickly grew out of its original location and expanded into a local mini-chain. In all its locations, Shiraz shines with authentic Persian (Iranian) cooking, such as char-grilled kebabs, fine pitas and lavish bread. $ L D f

Blues’ extensive Cuban menu has a few international dishes, too, and a nice selection of tapas. Also a half-dozen bocaditos (sandwiches) and a few dinner dishes such as paella Valenciana and arroz con pollo. $$ L D pfe

THE WAREHOUSE HOOKAH BAR & CAFÉ 504 State St., New Albany IN, (502) 276-5894. Choose from up to 10 flavors of tobacco to relish at the table with friends at this first hookah bar in southern Indiana. Also on offer is a full bar and American pub grub such as pizzas, pita and hummus, corn dogs, jumbo pretzels, chips and salsa or queso to munch on between puffs. $ L D hpe

HAVANA RUMBA 4115 Oechsli Ave., 897-1959, 12003 Shelbyville Rd., 244-5375. A true taste of Old Havana, this bright, inviting and consistently busy Cuban restaurant has opened a second location, in Middletown, in the strip mall location formerly occupied by Pig City BBQ. Bountiful servings of Cuban fare as good as any in Key West or Miami, not to mention a hopping mojito bar, have earned Havana Rumba a place on our short list of local favorites. $$ L D pf

ZAYTUN MEDITERRANEAN GRILL 2286 Bardstown Rd., 365-1788. Fine, freshly prepared seafood is part of the draw in this upper Highlands eatery with an eclectic Middle Eastern menu. Excellent gyros and friendly, sympathetic service kick it up a notch from other hummus joints. $ L D h ZOE’S KITCHEN 500 W. Jefferson St., 585-0000, 4126 Summit Plaza Dr., 329-8963, 3723 Lexington Rd., 409-8963. This chain has been growing throughout the South and Southwest, and now has three Louisville locations. An eclectic menu offers kabobs, hummus, quesadillas, roll-ups, pita sandwiches and chicken, tuna and shrimp salads. $ LD

J. GUMBO’S 2109 Frankfort Ave., 896-4046, 531 Lyndon Ln., 425-0096, 426 W. Jefferson St., 5899245, 8603 Citadel Way, 493-4720, 3017 Poplar Level Rd., 690-8080. Former jockey Billy Fox has created a popular mini-chain serving hearty, affordable Cajun cuisine. After a stint focusing on expansion, he is now back in the saddle and in the kitchen again, to the delight of his fans. The drunken chicken is addictive. $ B L D f JOE’S OK BAYOU 9874 Linn Station Rd., 426-1320. Fine, filling and authentic Louisiana-style fare is the draw at Joe’s. A lengthy menu and bayou fishing-shack decor showcases authentic Cajun and Creole chow. $$ L D p SELENA’S AT WILLOW LAKE TAVERN 10609 LaGrange Rd., 245-9004. Owner Alan Salmon has brought his Cajun/Creole food and Tampa Bay experience to the old Willow Lake Tavern. The restoration and renovation were extensive, turning this Anchorage roadhouse into a roomy and inviting restaurant. Shrimp or fish with Manale sauce is a tribute to Pascal Manale’s in New Orleans. $$ Br L D hpf

CUBAN FLAVOR 5700 Outer Loop, 618-2181. The flowering of Cuban/Caribbean cuisine is reaching out beyond the city. This little place, in a strip mall, of course, brings black beans and rice and pork asado to Okolona. $ L D CUBANA RESTAURANT 2206 Frankfort Ave., 4094828. Cuban food, a growing segment of the ethnic offerings in town, has another outlet in the busy upper Clifton/lower Crescent Hill dining core. Usimg local, seasonal food sources, the menu offers weekly specials that tap into the larger Caribbean/ Central American food traditions. $$ L D pf EL RINCON CUBAN RESTAURANT 8118 Preston Hwy., 742-2768. Bringing Cuban cuisine to Okolona. Along with familiar dishes such as arroz con pollo, the menu also includes specialties such as tasajo (braised beef in tomato sauce), ajiaco (a root vegetable stew made with malanga, yucca and corn) and cremas — a variety of pureed vegetable soups. $ L D EL TENAMPA BAR & GRILL 5412 Del Maria Way, 493-4053. $ L D p HABANA BLUES TAPAS RESTAURANT 148 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 944-9760. Habana 82 Spring 2013 www.foodanddine.com

ADOBO MEXICAN RESTAURANT 5612 Bardstown Rd., 618-3430. Fern Creek gets some spicy Mexican with this eatery. The guacamole bar offers a huge portion in a rough stone mortar, just the thing to munch on while sipping a margarita special. $$ L D p BAZO’S FRESH MEXICAN GRILL 4014 Dutchmans Ln., 899-9600, 1907 S. Fourth St., 899-9746. A downtown location joins its Dupont Circle sibling, offering fine fish tacos and simple fast-food Mexican fare in an inexpensive, casual atmosphere. $ L D f EL BURRITO DE ORO 1927 Greentree Blvd., Clarksville IN, 285-8820. $ L D h EL CAPORAL 2209 Meadow Dr., 473-7840, 1909 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 515 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 282-7174. Louisville’s growing Mexican-American community has fostered a happy trend: excellent, authentic Mexican food. El Caporal bridges the gap between the Latino and Anglo communities. $ L D p EL MARIACHI 9901 La Grange Rd., 413-5770. Early fans of this Mexican restaurant, situated between a bakery and an ethnic grocery, have found much to rave about: tacos and burritos made with the bakery’s fresh tortillas, funky authentic fillings, and quick, friendly service. $ B L D p EL MARLIN SEAFOOD RESTAURANT 1850 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 365-1777. As genuine a take on Mexican seafood cookery as is possible in landlocked Kentucky. Choose mild or spicy preparations of marlin, tilapia, grouper and snapfish. $$ L D p EL MOLCAJETE 8106 Preston Hwy., 742-3485, 3022 S. Third St., 638-0300. $$ L D hp EL MUNDO 2345 Frankfort Ave., 899-9930. This crowded, noisy little Crescent Hill storefront offers creative renditions of Mexican regional specialties that make most diners want to yell “Olé!” The setting may lack the trendy flair of Rick Bayless’ Frontera Grill in Chicago, but the fare mines a similar vein and does so nearly as well. $ L D pf EL NOPAL (16 Locations) These locally owned restaurants have become a growing mini-chain, winning popularity on the basis of delicious and inexpensive Mexican fare in com fortable surroundings. $ L D pf EL RANCHERO 2918 Hikes Ln,. 410-5668. Formerly El Rey’s, the new owner has spiffed the space up a bit, and aficionados of Mexican food speak well of the nacho grande, tostadas de ceviche and spicierthan-usual queso. $$ L D p EL SOMBRERO 2784 Meijer St, Jeffersonville IN, 2850109. An Indianapolis restaurant group has taken over the old Bearno’s near Meijer in J’ville, and opened this “Americanized Mexican” restaurant. $ D p EL TARASCO 5425 New Cut Rd., 368-5628, 110 Fairfax Ave., 895-8010, 9901 LaGrange Rd., 3269373, 9606 Taylorsville Rd., 297-8003. Add El Tarasco to the happy new genre of restaurants run by Latinos and offering authentic Mexican food and atmosphere, but that reach out to Anglos and

make it easy to enjoy a South-of-the-Border culinary adventure without compromise. $ L D p EL TORAZO 1850 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-7272. A family oriented Mexican restaurant joins the choices at this Hurstbourne shopping strip location. All the expected menu items, as well as some more sophisticated dishes, such as 7 mares sopa, a soup with shrimp, scallops and octopus; banderillas, a colorful beef brochette; and chuleta sabrosa, a Durango-style grilled steak. $$ L D pf EL TORO CANTINA & GRILL 10602 Shelbyville Rd., 489-3839. One of the top Mexican restaurants in the metro, El Toro earns our recommendation for food, service and environment. Tex-Mex dishes are fine, but save room for the authentic Mexican seafood specialties. $ L D pf ERNESTO’S 4632 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 671-5291. One of the first of the locally-owned Mexican restaurant groups, Ernesto’s remains consistently reliable. From the crispy home-fried chips to filling Mexican main courses and tasty desserts, it’s a worthy destination for good Mexican food and excellent value. $ L D pfe FIESTA TIME MEXICAN GRILL 11320 Maple Brook Dr., 425-9144, 8133 Bardstown Rd., 231-2444. $ L D p GUACA MOLE 9921 Ormsby Station Rd., 365-4823. Fernando Martinez, veteran of Havana Rumba and Mojitos, has graced the East End with his “creative Mexican” restaurant. The hyphenated name emphasizes the menu’s exploration of different moles, and the creativity comes with modern twists on classic Mexican dishes. Early buzz is hot, for both the food and the up-to-the-minute cocktail program designed by Martinez’s wife Cristina. $$ Br L D pe LA BAMBA 1237 Bardstown Rd., 451-1418. La Bamba boasts of its “burritos as big as your head.” It may be Louisville’s most startling case of an eatery that is more than it appears to be, and that goes for both quality and quantity. Franchised and fast-foodish, it pleasantly surprises with genuine Mexican fare and Latino flair. $ L D h LA CARRETA 7319 Preston Hwy., 742-1320. One of several new Mexican joints to open recently but with a bit more interesting menu than some. Look for Texas quail poppers, shrimp diablo, fajita nachos, and botana platter, as well as quesadillas, taquitos and queso. $$ L D h LA HACIENDA GUADALAJARA 4132 Outer Loop, 384-6427. $$ B L D LA MONARCA 6501 Shepherdsville Rd., 969-7938.$LD f LA PASADITA 245 Market St., Charlestown IN, 2567918. $ B L D LA POPULAR 2521 Seventh St Rd., 636-3688.$LD p LA ROSITA MEXICAN GRILL 336 Pearl St., New Albany IN, 944-3620. Starting as a little walk-in space, the popularity of La Rosita’s traditional Mexican food, offering some of the most vivid Latin flavors we had encountered, led to a move to a huge, former department store space near the action in the New Albany downtown renaissance. $ B L D LA ROSITA TAQUERIA 8730 Westport Rd., 618-4588, 5059 Preston Hwy., 618-2833, 1404 Blackiston Mill Rd., Clarksville IN, 284-1362. For those who crave genuine Mexican tacos, you want them convenient when the urge to scarf one down strikes. These little places will certainly satisfy those cravings. $ L D LAS GORDITAS 4756 Bardstown Rd., 492-0112. As Louisville’s small but thriving Latino community grows, it’s now possible to enjoy an authentic Mexico City-style dining experience at this taco and gordita wagon that rolls up in the Eastland Shopping Center on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays only. Family owners and chefs Pat and Esperanza

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Costas and Ofelia Ortiz are completely bilingual, and as friendly as can be. $ D hf LOLITA’S TACOS 4222 Poplar Level Rd., 459-4356. This tiny place may look like a fast-food joint, but the food is about as genuine Mexican as you’ll find. Crisp or soft tacos and burritos the size of paper-towel rolls turn a meal here into a real bargain. $ L D f LOS AZTECAS 530 W. Main St., 561-8535, 1107 Herr Ln., 426-3994, 9207 U.S. Hwy. 42, 228-2450. Genuine Mexican cuisine has become a viable option in Louisville, thanks to a growing immigrant community. With fresh bar and blender offerings, creative appetizers and comfortable seating, Los Aztecas is one of the best, with tasty Mexican dishes good enough to lure us back again and again. $ L D pf LOS MEZCALES 7502 Preston Hwy., 964-3466. A “family Mexican restaurant” on a strip with plenty of such to choose from. Serving huevos ranchero, burritos, chicken a la plancha and camarones a la diabla. $ L D MAYAN CAFÉ 813 E. Market St., 566-0651. Chef Bruce Ucán arguably kicked off the restaurant renaissance in the E. Market St. Nulu district. Opening his stylish bistro, serving distinctive cuisine from Ucán’s native Yucatan Peninsula, before NuLu was fashionable. For the second year his Market Mondays promote locally-raised pastured meats. $$ L D MEXICAN FIESTA 4507 Bardstown Rd., 491-2922 $ L D hp MEXICO TIPICO RESTAURANT 6517 Dixie Hwy., 9339523. One of the region’s first authentic Mexican eateries, Mexico Tipico has built a loyal following for good Mexican food and friendly, fully bilingual service. $ L D pe MEXICO VIEJO 2319 Brownsboro Rd., 893-9880.$LDp PINA FIESTA REAL MEXICAN GRILL 7895 Dixie Hwy., 995-6775. Fans of Mexican food have another place to try, out along the wide, wide highway. You won’t find anything new here, but they say it will be real. $ L D p PUERTO VALLARTA 4214 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 945-3588, 125 Quartermaster Ct., Jeffersonville IN, 288-2022, 7814 Beulah Church Rd., 239-4646. $$ L D p QDOBA MEXICAN GRILL (13 locations). This chain operation extends from Louisville to Frankfort and Lexington. Fast-foodish in style, Qdoba edges out its competitors on variety and interesting salsas, plus sizable portions at a price you can afford. $ L D f RAMIRO’S CANTINA 2350 Frankfort Ave., 8953333. Ramiro Gandara bought out his partners and gave his mom, Tina Ruton Escajeda, control of the kitchen. His Mexican restaurant in the heart of Crescent Hill’s restaurant row has a new name and some unique menu items, such as enchiladas verdes, lobster quesadilla, guacamole burger, and shrimp fajitas. And don’t forget Tina’s specialty: scratch-made tamales. Vegetarian choices too, and a full bar. $ L D hpf ROSTICERIA LUNA 5213 Preston Hwy., 962-8898. Tiny and cluttered and very friendly, this little spot on Preston looks like another tacqueria but the specialty, Mexican-style roasted chicken, takes it to another level, juicy and succulent and roasted golden brown. Chicken simply doesn’t get any better than this. $ L D hp SANTA FE 318 Main Cross St., Charlestown IN, 2562595. $ L D SANTA FE GRILL 3000 S. Third St., 634-3722. This tiny eatery in a century-old red-brick South End storefront near Churchill Downs never fails to satisfy with genuine Mexican tacos and other simple fare at prices that will leave you plenty of change for an exacta bet at the races. $ L D 84 Spring 2013 www.foodanddine.com

SEÑOR IGUANA’S 1415 Broadway St., Clarksville IN, 280-8555, 3105 S. Second St., 368-0876, 9424 Shelbyville Rd., 425-4581, 9909 Taylorsville Rd., 409-9565. These four Mexican-American eateries are known for their hearty, well-prepared Mexican food, and plenty of it, in a casually laid-back, comfortable sports-bar atmosphere. $ L D hpfe SIN FRONTERAS 827 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville IN, 292-0901. $$ L D p SOL AZTECAS 2427 Bardstown Road, 520 S. Fourth St., 315-0666, 129 W. Main St,. 583-5505. Saul Garcia, owner of this expanding chain, seems to have a knack for finding hot locations to serve his satisfying fare. He was down on Main St.’s museum row before the museums were, took over the former Raw space on the southern edge of the hot Fourth St. Live corridor, and now has his classiest location on Whiskey Row, a handsome renovation with a more sophisticated Mexican decor, and a broader Mexican menu. $ L D hpf TACO TICO 5925 Terry Rd., 449-9888. Founded in Wichita in 1962, the same year as Taco Bell was born in Southern California, The Taco Tico chain has been gone from Louisville for more than a decade. Its happy return has been drawing remarkable crowds. $ L D

BEAN STREET COFFEE CO. 101 Lafollette Station, Floyds Knobs IN, 923-1404. Bean Street introduced the Sunny Side to the joys of serious espresso. Like all good coffee shops, they’re not just an eatery, but a cultural hangout. $ CAFFE CLASSICO 2144 Frankfort Ave., 895-0076. (See review under Bistro/Contemporary.) COFFEE CROSSING 4212 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 981-2633. $ f DAY’S ESPRESSO AND COFFEE BAR 1420 Bardstown Rd., 456-1170. Dark and cozy, with an oldfashioned feeling, Day’s has everything you would expect in a college-neighborhood coffee shop except a college near by. $ hf EXPRESSIONS OF YOU 1800 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 584-6886. $ fe GREEN ROOM COFFEE 3640 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-9396. Inside the Hurstbourne Music Center, music lovers can find music-themed breakfast dishes to fortify them as they shop for instruments or practice their craft. $ e

TACQUERIA LA MEXICANA 6201 Preston Hwy., 969-4449. The tacos are fine at this tiny storefront. This is seriously ethnic stuff, but Anglos are thoroughly welcome, the staff is bilingual, and they will happily provide a menu with all the English translations written in. $ L D

HEINE BROTHERS COFFEE (13 locations) With the absorption of the VINT outlets, Heine Bros. asserts their dominance in the local brewing scene. The stores are always friendly and affordable, with good coffee roasted on the premises and a short list of pastries, desserts and panini sandwiches. $ hfe

YELLOW CACTUS 3620 Paoli Pk., Floyds Knobs IN, 903-0313. A yellow neon cactus draws diners to this Indiana restaurant that offers standard Mexican cantina fare, as well as steak and chicken in both American and Mexican styles, and a few seafood dishes. $ L D hp

HIGHLAND COFFEE CO. 1140 Bardstown Rd., 4514545. Offering two ways to get wired, this cozy neighborhood coffee shop also functions as one of Louisville’s top Internet cafés, where you can enjoy a hot cappuccino while you surf the ’net in a WiFi hot spot. Funky Seattle-style ambience is a plus. $ hf

CHUY’S 104 Oxmoor Crt., 327-3033, 1440 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 282-2489. The Austin, Texas “unchain,” has two area locations, offering a complimentary happy hour nacho “car bar” set in the back end of a 50s era auto, plenty of Elvis memorabilia, and a wall of chihuahua photos. Oh, and Tex-Mex food at reasonable prices. $$ L D hpf MOE’S SOUTHWEST GRILL 2001 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-1800, 1001 Breckinridge Ln., 8936637, 4652 Chamberlain Ln., 425-3330, 1020 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 288-6637, 9310 Cedar Center Way, 614-7722. The food may be more fast-food Mexican-American than authentic South-of-the-Border fare, but it is freshly made from quality ingredients and comes in oversize portions, and that’s not a bad thing. $ L D SALSARITA’S FRESH CANTINA 285 N. Hubbards Ln., 897-5323, 12915 Shelbyville Rd., 365-1424. Another entry in the hot “Fresh Mexican” niche that features gigantic burritos made to order. Now with two locations, in St. Matthews and Middletown. $ LDf TACO PUNK 736 E. Market St., 584-8226. (See review under Casual Dining) TUMBLEWEED TEX MEX GRILL & MARGARITA BAR (15 locations). Starting as a humble Mexican restaurant in New Albany, Tumbleweed grew to become an area favorite serving bold, southwest-inspired food such as burritos, spicy chile con queso, mesquitegrilled steaks, fish and chicken. Each Tumbleweed Margarita Bar offers two dozen tequila varieties and dozens of sweet and tangy margarita combinations. Sip one while savoring the river-view at its flagship River Road location. $ L D hp

THE HOBKNOBB ROASTING CO. 3700 Paoli Pike, Floyds Knobs IN, 923-1458, 419 State St., New Albany IN, 944-4555. HobKnobb offers fresh hot coffee, espresso drinks and fresh baked pastries, cakes and cookies. $ fe JAVA BREWING COMPANY 4828 Norton Healthcare Blvd., 339-4744, 135 S. English Station Rd., 489-5677, 1707 Bardstown Rd., 384-3555. These casual spots boasts the ambience of a friendly old-fashioned book shop, with comfortable seating, a good selection of pastries, and quality coffee from Seattle. $ fe KING’S COFFEE 406 Popp Ave., Sellersburg IN, 7489448. Sellersburg gets a taste of espresso, chai and exotic teas, along with fresh pastries. $ LOUISVILLE TEA COMPANY 9305 New LaGrange Rd., 365-2516. Teas of all sorts, pastries and cookies make for a perfect morning snack the English call “elevenses.” $ B L MRS. POTTER’S COFFEE 718 W. Main St., 581-1867.$f PERKFECTION 359 Spring St., Jeffersonville IN, 218-0611.$ PLEASE AND THANK YOU 800 E. Market St. Another addition to the burgeoning choices in NuLu district, this little coffee house with a difference serves breakfast and lunch, and offers an eclectic selection of vinyl records, which can be sampled in a listening room. Try the ganache latte, Thai iced coffee, granola parfait, Capriole cheese with honey and grapes on a baguette, or a field greens salad with dried cherries and blue cheese. $ f QUILL’S COFFEE SHOP 930 Baxter Ave., 742-6129, 327 W. Cardinal Blvd., 690-5553, 137 E. Market St., New Albany IN 590-3426. This local purveyor of excellent coffee and provider of amenable working spaces has opened two new locations, in the new U of L.student housing, and in the midst of the NuLu action. $ f

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

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RED HOT ROASTERS 1402 Payne St., 569-0000, 901 S. Fourth St. (Spalding University), 585-9911. The drive-through take-away joint (entrance off Lexington Rd.) has added a space at Spalding, with an expanded menu and new cold-brewed iced coffee drinks. Excellent whole beans roasted on the premises are also available at groceries. $ SISTER BEAN’S 5225 New Cut Rd., 364-0082. $ f SMOKEY’S BEAN 1451 S. First St., 749-6900. Located on the corner of 1st and Burnett, this new coffeehouse and sandwich shop gives more choice to Old Louisville residents. Locally roasted coffee plus frappes. On Friday and Saturday nights sit down and puff on a hookah till 2 a.m. $ hf SONOMA COFFEE CAFÉ 3309 Poplar Level Rd., 384-0044. The first outlet in Kentucky of this franchise coffeteria. $ STARBUCKS COFFEE (35 locations) $ f SUNERGOS COFFEE 2122 S. Preston St., 634-1243, 306 W. Woodlawn Ave., 368-2820, 231 S. Fifth St., 589-3222. Matthew Huested and Brian Miller used to roast their own coffee beans as a hobby. Their friends said they did it so well, they should turn pro — the result is Sunergos Coffee. $ e TAZZA MIA 9700 Bluegrass Pkwy., (Ramada Plaza Hotel) 491-4830. The Cincinnati-based coffee shop joins the food options at the Ramada Plaza in eastern Jefferson County. Patrons can find breakfast pastries such as Danishes and muffins along with the house-roasted coffees. $ TRAILSIDE CAFÉ 1321 Herr Ln., 423-1545. $ VINT COFFEE 2309 Frankfort Ave., 894-8060, Now owned by Heine Bros. this Crescent Hill location is the only one that keeps the name that reflects the concept that all their beverages — coffee, tea, ale and wine — will “have a vintage, an annual release cycle.” $ f

ADRIENNE & CO. BAKERY CAFÉ 129 W. Court Ave., Jeffersonville, IN, 282-2665. If you need something for your sweet tooth and won’t be denied, count yourself lucky if the craving strikes when you’re in the vicinity of this cozy Southern Indiana spot, with its good selection of homemade cakes and treats. $ f

COCO’S CHOCOLATE CAFÉ 1759 Bardstown Rd., 454-9810. Stylish, artisanal chocolates and baked goods made on the premises make this tiny Highlands spot a stylish place to stop and linger over for a dessert and a cup of coffee. $ hf THE COMFY COW 1301 Herr Ln., 425-4979, 2223 Frankfort Ave., 409-4616, 339 W. Cardinal Blvd., 409-5090. This “new-fashioned” ice-cream parlor made an immediate splash in its original Westport Village location with its intriguing range of flavors (salted caramel, fresh roasted coffee, peanut peanut butter butter), and is in the throes of expansion, into the historic building on Frankfort next to the old Genny’s Diner and in the U of L project at the old Masterson’s site in Old Louisville. $ hf COPPER CUPCAKE 10616 Meeting St., 708-2418. The goodies in this gourmet bakery in Norton Commons are baked by a California Culinary Academy graduate who touts using premium ingredients in her confections. On offer are seasonal breakfast breads, regular and filled cupcakes, cookies, whoopie pies and even peanut butter woofers, bone-shaped crunchy chews for “man’s best friend.” $ THE CUPCAKE SHOPPE 3701 Lexington Rd., 8992970. You won’t need three guesses to name the specialty at this little St. Matthews bakery, which has gained instant popularity for its wide variety of moist, tender cupcakes, always made in house. $ DALAT’S GATEAUX & BAKERY 6915 Southside Dr., 368-9280. It’s a French bakery, run by a Vietnamese family, which makes perfect sense. Order French pastry, cakes and cookies as well as Vietnamese specialties. Savory choices, such as pork pate wrapped in choux pastry are also available. $ DESSERTS BY HELEN 3500 Frankfort Ave., 451-7151. Helen Friedman has earned a loyal clientele since the 1970s with her elegant cakes, tempting pies and tortes and designer cookies. $$ DUNKIN DONUTS 1250 Bardstown Rd., 290-3865. The first of two new franchises in the area (the other will be in the East End). You will find hot sandwiches as well as doughnuts and coffee, just what you need to get you going in the morning or to get you steady enough to get home at night. $ B L h THE FUDGERY 416 S Fourth St.(Fourth Street Live), 409-7484.$

ANNIE MAY’S SWEETS CAFÉ 3110 Frankfort Ave., 384-2667. The only gluten and nut-free bakery in the state caters to customers with dietary issues such as celiac disease and allergies. Cookies, brownies, cakes, pies, wedding cakes all made without wheat, dairy, eggs, soy or tree nuts. Arrive early, before the vegan and allergen-free oatmeal cream pie cookie sells out. $

GELATO GILBERTO 9434 Norton Commons Blvd., 423-7751. Justin and Kristin Gilbert so loved the gelato they ate as students in Italy that they returned there after graduating to study gelato making. Their popular store draws fans out to Norton Commons, though owners can often be found scooping cones and cups at special events. Their store menu includes pies and crepes as well. $h

THE BAKERY 3100 Bardstown Rd., 452-1210. Not just a fine bakery but a place where bakers learn their business, this excellent establishment is part of the culinary program at Sullivan University. It’s hard to beat the quality breads and pastries offered here to eat in or carry out. $

GIGI’S CUPCAKES 1977 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 4994998. The first outpost of the Tennessee bakery chain in Kentucky, this little shop offers a changing selection of high-end cupcakes in designer flavors — Bailey’s Irish cream, apple spice, coconut snowball, and so on. $

BREADWORKS 3628 Brownsboro Rd., 893-3200, 2420 Lime Kiln Ln., 326-0300, 2204 Dundee Rd., 452-1510, 11800 Shelbyville Rd., 254-2885. $ B

GREAT HARVEST BREAD COMPANY 1225 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 412-8573 $ B L

CAKE FLOUR 909 E. Market St., 719-0172. This jewel box shop serves up precious French pastries, quiche, scones and sweets seven days a week. The chef’s all-natural ethos and locavore connections make for exquisite tastes. $ f CELLAR DOOR CHOCOLATES 1201 Story Ave., 561-2940. Erika Chavez-Graziano continues her chocolate explorations at her artsy shop int the Butchertown Market building on Story Ave., Look for esoteric, but luscious, inventive chocolate confections such as beer flavored truffles and avocado soft-centers. $

HEITZMAN TRADITIONAL BAKERY & DELI 9426 Shelbyville Rd., 426-7736, 428 W. Market St., 5842437. The Heitzman family has been baking in the Louisville area since your great-aunt was a girl ordering dinner rolls. Made fresh daily, the pies, cakes, cookies and specialty pastries provide tasty nostalgia for all who visit. $

Bardstown Rd., 239-3880, 3113 Blackiston Mill Rd., Clarksville IN, 590-3580, 2232 Frankfort Ave., 409-6100. $ L D hf HONEY CREME DONUT SHOP 514 Vincennes St., New Albany IN, 945-2150. Off the beaten track, this down-homey bakery in a plain white building offers a wide selection of doughnuts, fritters and Danish that keeps the shop’s fans coming back again and again. $ B JASMIN BAKERY 3825 Bardstown Rd., 458-0013. This “European-style” bakery offers fresh breads and rolls, as well as Eastern Mediterranean fare, such as gyros and baklava, at reasonable prices. $ B L MARLYCE’S PLACE 1404 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville IN, 551-5577. A Triangle Center stop for anyone needing a sweets fix. Come in for a line up for elaborately decorated cakes, custom cookies, cupcakes, pies, fudge and sweet breads. Need a cake in the shape of an enchanted castle for your little princess’s birthday? Call Marlyce. $ MY FAVORITE MUFFIN 9800 Shelbyville Rd., 4269645. All the muffins are made right in the store, including such popular choices as the Cinnamon Crumb and the Turtle Muffin. $ B NORD’S BAKERY 2118 S. Preston St., 634-0931. This old-school, family-owned bakery on the edge of Germantown has a devoted following, drawn by divine Danish, donuts, and great coffee from the nearby Sunergos micro-roastery — and if you’re a sucker for over-the-top excess, try the caramel donut topped with — yes, it’s true, bacon. $ B PLEHN’S BAKERY 3940 Shelbyville Rd., 896-4438. A neighborhood institution, this bakery is as busy as it is nostalgic. Enjoy the hometown soda fountain with ice cream while you wait for your handdecorated birthday cake, breakfast rolls or colorful cookies to be boxed. $ B POLICE DONUTS 12416 Shelbyville Rd., 244-1880. The first incarnation of this jokey concept did not quite work out, but new ownership is trying again, putting out good bakery products at reasonable prices. $ B STATE DONUTS 12907 Factory Ln., 409-8825. $ SUGAR AND SPICE DONUT SHOP 5613 Bardstown Rd., 231-1411. This Fern Creek bakery has loads of loyal fans, who often buy out their favorite donut by mid-morning. Coffee to go too, of course, and even little half-pints of chocolate milk. $ B SWEET STUFF BAKERY 323 E. Spring St., New Albany IN, 948-2507. This long-time southern Indiana home-style bakery is noted for baked goods just like your grandmother made. Its specialty: painted sugar cookies, with designs in white chocolate that change with the seasons and holidays. Also custom cookie and cake designs. $ B SWEET SURRENDER 1804 Frankfort Ave., 899-2008. Sweet Surrender, with Jessica Haskell at the helm, has returned to its original Clifton neighborhood to provide elegant desserts as well as signature vegetarian lunches. $$ hf SWEETS & SUCH BAKERY 3947 Dixie Hwy., 4491008. A Shively area neighborhood bakery. Cupcakes and cookies, brownies and cake, but its renown stems from the Presidential donut, a cream-filled concoction that won Bill Clinton’s admiration. $ WILLIAM’S BAKERY 1051 N. Clark Blvd., Clarksville IN, 284-2867. $ B

HOMEMADE ICE CREAM & PIE KITCHEN 2525 Bardstown Rd., 459-8184, 1041 Bardstown Rd., 618-3380, 3737 Lexington Rd., 893-3303, 12613 Taylorsville Rd., 267-6280, 3598 Springhurst Blvd., 326-8990, 12531 Shelbyville Rd., 245-7031, 5606

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

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MAP INDEX

MAP # DIRECTION PAGE # DOWNTOWN 88 1 downtown louisville 89 NEAR EAST 2 highlands – crescent hill 90 NEAR EAST 3 st. matthews 91 SOUTH EAST 4 hikes point – buechel 92 EAST 5 hurstbourne – anchorage 93 EAST 6 hurstbourne s. – jeffersontown 94 NORTH EAST 7 indian hills – westport 94 FAR NORTH EAST 8 westport rd. – gene snyder NA NEW MAP 9 under construction 95 NORTH EAST 10 prospect 95 SOUTH EAST 11 fern creek 96 SOUTH WEST 12 shively – pleasure ridge 97 SOUTH 13 old louisville – airport 98 INDIANA 14 new albany – floyds knobs 99 INDIANA 15 clarksville 99 INDIANA 16 jeffersonville

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DOWNTOWN

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(NEAR EAST) HIGHLANDS – CRESCENT HILL – CLIFTON

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(NEAR EAST) ST. MATTHEWS

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(SOUTH EAST) HIKES POINT – BUECHEL

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(EAST) LYNDON – HURSTBOURNE – ANCHORAGE – MIDDLETOWN

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(EAST) HURSTBOURNE SOUTH – FOREST HGILLS – JEFFERSONTOWN

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(FAR NORTH EAST) WESTPORT RD – GENE SNYDER

(NORTH EAST) INDIAN HILLS – WESTPORT

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(SOUTH EAST) FERN CREEK

(NORTH EAST) PROSPECT

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(SOUTH WEST) SHIVELY – PLEASURE RIDGE

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(SOUTH) OLD LOUISVILLE – AIRPORT

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(INDIANA) NEW ALBANY – FLOYDS KNOBS

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Friday, April 12, 2013 11:30am-1:30pm # "! # # " %$$#

(INDIANA) CLARKSVILLE

Fillies Networking Luncheon & Fashion Show

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For more information:

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(INDIANA) JEFFERSONVILLE

www.FilliesNetworkingLuncheon.com

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