Fall 2006 (Vol. 14)

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FALL 2006

check out the restaurant guide & area maps

Turn up the heat with

pg. 54

Chiles!

Downtown’s Emerging

Cuisine Scene pg. 38

guest chef recipes from

PLUS

michael crouch anthony lamas john castro

$ 4 . 9 9 U. S .

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Z’s steaks are selected from Prime mid-western aged beef, hand-cut to order and cooked the way you like it.

Z’s seafood is purchased directly from “day boat fisherman,” prepared simply and cooked to perfection. Don’t call prior to 4:00 p.m. about seafood specials for the evening… Chef is still at the airport… we just don’t know, yet!

Z’s oyster lovers can select from both East and West Coast oysters!

Lunch

Monday – Friday

11:30 a.m. – 2:30 p.m.

Dinner

Monday – Thursday Friday – Saturday Sunday

5:00 p.m. – 10:00 p.m.

5:00 p.m. – 11:00 p.m.

5:00 p.m. – 9:00 p.m.

Louisville’s ◆◆◆◆ Restaurant

2005|2006|2007 America’s Top 10 Seafood Houses

Opened in October 2000, Z’s Oyster Bar & Steakhouse is independently owned and operated.

101 Whittington Parkway Louisville, KY 40222 Telephone (502) 429-8000 Facsimile (502) 339-0335 www.zsoysterbar.com

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Choose Your Dealership As Carefully as You Choose Your Car.

You’re Riding On Our Reputation!

The Sam Swope Auto Group is pleased to offer a vast selection of new automobiles from some of the finest manufacturers in the world making us the #1 new car dealer in the region.

As the #1 used car dealer, Sam Swope is also The Used Car Authority with over 1,000 vehicles to choose from for immediate delivery. A Sam Swope Premier Pre-owned vehicle offers a quality automobile, at the right price, backed by an exclusive package of owner benefits including a 7 day exchange policy, warranty coverage up to 60 days, and complimentary Emergency Roadside Rescue. You can buy with confidence from a Sam Swope dealership.

Quality automobiles. Competitive prices. Outstanding service. Once you see all that the Sam Swope Auto Group has to offer you will understand why‌

Swope Discount AutoCenter I I-64 & S. Hurstbourne Parkway I Louisville, KY 40299

502-499-5000 I www.SamSwope.com

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Island inspired seafood, chicken, and steak.

Open daily for lunch and dinner • Call-ahead seating available • bahamabreeze.com 104 Oxmoor Ct., Louisville, KY 40222 • Adjacent to the Oxmoor Mall behind Kohl’s • 502-423-9040

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FALL 2006 PUBLISHER JOHN CARLOS WHITE EDITOR-IN-CHIEF ROBIN GARR VICE PRESIDENT OF OPERATIONS DANIEL F. BOYLE COLUMNISTS ROGER A. BAYLOR JAY FORMAN ROBIN GARR RON JOHNSON DAVID LANGE JERRY SLATER CONTRIBUTING WRITERS GREG GAPSIS MICHAEL L. JONES CONTRIBUTING CHEFS JOHN CASTRO MICHAEL CROUCH ANTHONY LAMAS CHIEF RESTAURANT CRITIC ROBIN GARR CHIEF PHOTOGRAPHER DAN DRY GRAPHIC DESIGN KATHY KULWICKI STEFAN TAMBURRO COPY EDITORS MARY W. JOHNSON PAUL NAJJAR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES ANNETTE B. WHITE GINA WOLFE DISTRIBUTION / FACT CHECKING AMANDA HERSCHEL

Food & Dining Magazine 速 is published quarterly by Louisville Dining Magazine, Inc. P.O. Box 665, Louisville KY 40201 The publisher and advertisers are not responsible or liable f or misprints, typographical errors or misinformation. The opinions expressed herein are those of the writ ers and do not nec essarily reflect the opinion of the publisher. Food & Dining Magazine 速 and Louisville Dining Magazine Inc. are in no w ay affiliated with Louisville Magazine速 or any of its affiliates. Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited.

All rights reserved.

___________________________________

Annual Subscriptions rate $18.

Submit subscription requests to: Food & Dining Magazine 速 P.O. Box 665, Louisville KY 40201, or call (502) 493-5511 ext. 540 or subscribe online at www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

For Advertising information call (502) 493-5511 ext. 550 ON THE COVER Proof on Main Chef Michael Paley creates a simple yet elegant dish of smoked chicken with Proof bread salad, pine nuts, currants and grilled lemon. (Feature story, page 38.)

Photo by Dan Dry 6

Fall 2006

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contents 16

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FALL 2006

FEATURES

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CHILES: LOUISVILLE’S CHEFS TURN UP THE HEAT The city’s dining scene is heating up, literally, with creative chefs using hot chile peppers in inventive and novel ways.

DOWNTOWN’S RESTAURANT RENAISSANCE From Michael Jordan to Robert DeNiro, downtown’s booming restaurant scene is luring big names to Louisville.

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COLUMNS NEWS AND NOTES COMINGS & GOINGS

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Here’s our quarterly report on the local restaurant scene, detailing openings, closings, moves and more.

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HUMOR KNIFE ENVY Being married to a chef has finally forced humor columnist Jay Forman to acknowledge his limitations in the kitchen.

TRAVEL ROAD TRIP: Lexington Ron Johnson heads east on I-64 and discovers that there’s more than just Keeneland and Cats in Kentucky’s second city.

LIQUIDS CORK 101: Pop goes the bubbly Champagne tastes but a beer budget? Robin Garr offers a quick pre-holiday rundown of good sparkling-wine alternatives.

HIP HOPS: Unique beer ingredients Nature’s bounty can enhance beer-drinking pleasures that go far beyond the traditional malt and hops, Roger A. Baylor reports.

SPIRITS: Holiday entertaining Mixologist Jerry Slater’s tutorial on building cocktails at home might be just the thing for the coming holiday season.

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COFFEE: Buzz words Buying coffee used to be simple, but things have changed. David Lange provides a glossary of new buzz words about coffee.

RECIPES TOP CHEF RECIPES: Cooking with chiles These recipes are hot: Seviche’s Anthony Lamas and Bourbons Bistro’s Michael Crouch have come up with creative recipes using chile peppers.

RESTAURANT FAVORITES: Yang Kee Noodle’s Firecracker Chicken When you try Chef John Castro’s recipe for this fiery Asian dish, you’ll see why it’s the most popular item at his Oxmoor eatery.

RESTAURANT GUIDE

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DINING GUIDE A comprehensive listing of over 1000 restaurants with reviews.

MAPS Find all of the restaurants in our Dining Guide on 16 area maps.

12 14 30 32 34 36 26 52 54 82

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news and notes

comings

& goings

After a remarkably busy first six months of 2006 on the Louisville eats scene, restaurant business activity seemed to settle back and pause for a few deep breaths during the late summer and early fall.

Even during a relatively quiet quarter, however, the trend lines are strongly positive, with nearly two dozen new restaurants opening or about to do so, not to mention a handful of franchised chain operations opening additional local properties. Measure that against a bare half-dozen restaurant closings during the period— more than half of those quickly replaced by successors—and we’re looking at a restaurant business scene that can only be described as vibrant.

OPENINGS Perhaps the loudest foodie buzz surrounds the planned opening of La Rouge in the former Oscar Brown’s location at 252 East Market Street, with partners Rick Longino and former L&N Wine Bar Chef Rick Adams.The sophisticated eatery’s French name, Adams said, stems from the building’s colorful history as “gambling operation, brothel, swingers club, strip club, and gay bar.”

Brix Wine Bar, in the East End at 12418 New La Grange Road, draws its name from the world of fine beverages, too:“Brix” is a technical vineyard term for the measurement of sugar in ripe wine grapes.The wine bar, associated with the Liquor World shop next door, features more than 50 selections.

Apparently filling a long-standing need, Toast on Market jumped right out of the gate with noisy, happy breakfast and lunch crowds at 736 East Market Street, where its fun, funky quarters once housed the old Shel-Mar theater and later a junk shop.

Success breeds quick growth: Watch for dinner hours soon.

La Gallo Rosso Bistro at 1325 Bardstown Road now offers Italian-style goodies in the small, rather out-of-the-way but attractive quarters that had been the original home of Butterfly Garden, which earlier this year moved to a larger space nearby.

If ethnic food is your style, you’ve got a world of new options from which to choose. Jerusalem Mediterranean Café, 1907 South Third Street, offers well-prepared Middle Eastern fare with a Palestinian accent just off U of L’s Belknap Campus. Palapa Mexican Restaurant & Grill has added a bright red-and-green paint job to the old Shariat’s building at 2901 Brownsboro Road, where it replaces recent tenant Marimba and continues an outstanding Mexican lunch buffet plus full-menu lunch and dinner.

Roland Wong, formerly with Emperor of China, takes over the Peking City space in Springhurst with his Liang’s Café, 3571 Springhurst Boulevard.

Don’t touch that dial, there’s more, lots more: Edoya Japanese Restaurant continues the ethnic beat with upscale Japanese fare, from hibachi-grill specialties to sushi, in the fine old farmhouse at 15206 Shelbyville Road that recently housed Lanai and, in old-timers’ fond memory, Trattoria Mattei.

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Fall 2006

Pink Door Noodles & Tea Lounge brings a striking new Asian accent to 2222 Dundee Road at the Highlands’ Douglass Loop, featuring an edgy techno-Japanese vibe that includes a 23foot video wall, sake, exotic drinks … and noodle dishes. Simply Thai has transformed the little spot at 318 Wallace Avenue in St. Matthews, converting what had been a rather dismal fast-food chopsticks house to a sleek, artful Thai-and-fusion spot that’s well worth checking out.

Finally in the ethnic department, Bosna-Mak, 456-1919, 3825 Old Bardstown Road in Buechel, reflects the owners’ Bosnian and Macedonian heritage with a warm, friendly welcome.

Ruben’s Mexican Restaurant brings another Mexican-andmargaritas option to Clarksville at 1370 Veterans Parkway, and locally owned Fresco Southwest Grill & Pizza brings a welcome, well-managed mix of Mexican and Italian-American fast food to Louisville’s Portland neighborhood at 2047 Lytle Street.

In the mood for a little smoked meat and sauce? A shoppingcenter setting doesn’t diminish the down-home appeal of wellmade barbecue—with a cherrywood-smoke twist—at the justopened Pig City BBQ, in Middletown at 12003 Shelbyville Road.

Also out East you’ll find Orders Up Café & Deli, a comfortable, affordable soup-and-sandwich shop at 1981 Nelson Miller Parkway; Brownsboro Eatery, 7511 Highway 329, offering a broad lunch and dinner menu in a family environment; and a fish sandwich, a cold beer and more are now on tap at Tommy Pass’s Passtime Fish House, 10801 Locust Road in Jeffersontown.

Back in the city, Market on Market, the upscale minigrocery and deli adjacent to Primo in the renovated Schiller Hardware building, 445 East Market Street, puts together fine sandwiches and deli fare; friendly competitors Hippo Wings, locally owned at 502 East Warnock Street, and franchised Wing Zone, 905 Hess Lane, are both eager to fill your wings orders and other tailgating needs with takeout premises conveniently located to Papa John’s Stadium. Chicago Grill & Subs provides just what its name implies at 1626 Spring Street in Jeffersonville.

Mimi’s Café brings yet another chain to the suburbs, opening Louisville’s first property of this California-based

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DEFIANTLY MODERN As playful as it is artful, “Graffiti” uses

a m e r i c afree-flowing n g r aswirls f f i tand i shapes to imitate the stylized scrawls found on city streets. A simple color scheme of white/green or white/blue creates bold impact. For details on Graffiti pieces and other modern works of functional art, visit us at louisvillestoneware.com.

Studio One | 731 Brent Street | 502.582.1900 Mall St. Matthews | 5000 Shelbyville Road | 502.895.9221 Coming to Oxmoor Center in November

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upscale-family-dining chain (a property of Bob Evans) in the East End at 615 South Hurstbourne Parkway.

Four restaurants, all chains, have opened new locations in addition to their existing metro properties: Little Caesar’s Pizza, 12418 LaGrange Road in the East End, and three on Clarksville’s booming allmall strip: Olive Garden, 1230 Veterans Parkway, Ruby Tuesday, 1354 Veterans Parkway, and Longhorn Steakhouse, 1210 Veterans Parkway.

CLOSINGS As noted, Marimba Mexican Restaurant didn’t stay dark for long, as Palapa Mexican Restaurant & Grill moved in without missing a beat. Oscar’s Bar & Grill gave way promptly to La

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Rouge, and Peking City’s former home maintains the Chinese presence with Liang’s coming off the bench to take over its space at 3571 Springhurst Boulevard.

Also closing during the quarter were the short-lived Alley Cats at 962 Baxter Avenue; Close-Knit Café, which had valiantly sought to combine a yarn shop and coffee house at 311 Wallace Avenue; Pie In The Sky, a particularly regrettable loss with its excellent hand-tossed pizzas, now gone from 10301 Taylorsville Road, and the long-embattled Jillian’s under the silos at 630 Barret Avenue.

On the corporate-eatery side, the total number of Ruby Tuesday’s in the metro remained stable, with the new opening in Clarksville offsetting the

departure of the chain’s property at 5001 Shelbyville Road in St. Matthews.

MOVES & CHANGES Chef Allan Rosenberg, who had opened Danielle’s on Frankfort Avenue as its original signature chef, has taken over as Chef at BLU Mediterranean Grill at the Marriott Downtown, where he’s working up a new menu with significant changes in style.

Jerry Slater, who was long the maitre d’ and wine specialist at the Seelbach Hotel’s Oakroom before moving on to manage Park Place on Main, has returned to the Oakroom as Director of Restaurants, overseeing the hotel’s entire dining program including the Oakroom. (For more about changes at Park Place, see “This and That,” below.)

Slater, who we’re proud to host as Food & Dining magazine’s resident mixologist and spirits columnist, and his partner Cassandra Hobbic, who recently departed Proof on Main, will also pursue restaurant consulting and management opportunities. Replacing Hobbic as general manager at Proof is Jeremy Beck, who was promoted from restaurant director.

Tony Efstratiadis has taken over as chef at Stratto’s in the old McCulloch mansion in Clarksville. Before this move, Tony had gone from Napa River Grill to become executive chef and owner of 316 Ormsby.

Another chef on the move is Chris Howerton, who left Bourbons Bistro for the kitchen at Equus earlier this year. Now he’s executive chef at Club Grotto.

Matt Bates, who had been sommelier at 610 Magnolia after service at Lilly’s and the late Le Beaujolais, is the new sommelier at Seviche. Bates is working toward advanced sommelier status with the international Court of Master Sommeliers.

Speaking of high-level wine connoisseurship, Len Stevens, co-owner and wine guy at L&N Wine Bar and Bistro, returned home from New York City this past summer with the good news that he’s passed the Advanced Sommelier Exam (level 3) given by the Court of Master Sommeliers.

In the realm of stronger drink, Maker’s Mark Bourbon House & Lounge in Fourth Street Live has a new General Manager: Andre Bradford has taken over the post, moving from his former job as food-andbeverage director at Caesar’s Indiana.

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The Cutting Board Café on Goose Creek Road, in connection with its October move to larger quarters a few doors from its original location, is under new ownership with Guntars and Illena Rusmanis, with managing partner Andris Antons.

After a fire on August 19 destroyed Campbell’s Gourmet Cottage on Sherrin Avenue in St. Matthews, proprietor Susan Lukjan has rebounded in heroic style, reopening for business within a month in the Woodlawn Park shopping center at 291 North Hubbards Lane.

AWARDS AND HONORS Chef Todd Richards and Chef de Cuisine Duane Nutter of the Seelbach Hotel’s Oakroom competed on Food Network’s Iron Chef America on Oct. 17.

They’re contractually forbidden to breathe a word about the outcome, although Richards told the LouisvilleHotBytes forum, “I cannot tell you how truly exciting this was for us … it was a virtual true life experience.” The program will be broadcast this winter, probably in February, on a date to be set; Iron Chef America usually broadcasts on Sundays at 9 p.m. with re-broadcasts through the week.

Joining the steady stream of Louisville chefs invited to cook at James Beard House in New York City, Proof on Main Executive Chef Michael Paley made his first trek to Gotham on October 23.

Meanwhile, Chef Peng Looi of Asiatique and August Moon recently participated as a Master Chef at the Third Annual World Gourmet Summit at the World Market Center in Las Vegas.

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team with Louisville Originals chefs to provide in-store cooking demonstrations on Saturdays and Sundays through October and November.

Mark your calendars and plan to support the 10th annual Dining Out For Life on Wednesday, November 29. Dine out at any of more than 50 participating restaurants, and 20 percent or more of your bill will be donated to House of Ruth for the support of Glade House, caring for individuals and families affected by HIV and AIDS in our community. For a complete list of par ticipating restaurants online, visit www.diningoutforlife.com, click “Louisville,” then click “Participating Restaurants.”

The 2006 March of Dimes Signature Chefs Feast and Auction will be Wednesday,

November 15, at the Marriott Louisville Downtown. A gourmet-style sampling feast featuring selections by more than 20 local “Signature Chefs” will begin at 6 p.m., followed at 8 p.m. by a live auction featuring dining packages offered by the chefs. Patron tables with preferred seating for 10 are available for a $2,000 donation (of which $1,650 is tax-deductible); individual tickets are $150 ($115 taxdeductible). F&D We regret any omissions, but invite the restaurant community to keep us informed via E-mail. Please writ e to Publisher John Carlos White at publisher@foodandiningmagazine.com, or Editor-in-Chief Robin Garr at robin@foodanddiningmagazine.com.

THIS AND THAT ValuMarket has formally launched its new Highlands store, a complete remodel of what had been a rather shabby WinnDixie and, briefly, Buehler’s market in MidCity Mall. ValuMarket remained open for business during the four-month remodeling, which gives the store a fresh and unusual new look, with customers entering the store directly into a fresh produce and flower department. Expanded offerings include organic produce, and deli, bakery and specialty food items from local vendors ranging from Great Harvest Bread, Blue Dog Bakery and Lotsa Pasta to Equus, Palermo Viejo, Asiatique, Shiraz Mediterranean Grill and Tologono. To celebrate the grand re-opening, ValuMarket will www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Fall 2006

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BY JAY FORMAN

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i k e most guys, I tend to maintain a firm conviction that the way I do things is the only way to do these things, even in the face of overwhelming evidence to the contrary. But being married to a chef has finally forced me to acknowledge my limitations in the kitchen. I may not like it, but I cannot help but see that perhaps my techniques could use a little improvement.

Take dicing an onion. My bachelor method was simple: Slice off the tip and the root end, peel back the skin, and just whack the crap out of the remaining hunk of onion until the pieces are sufficiently “diced.” This is not how my wife does it.

Rather, playing surgeon to my caveman, she effortlessly makes a quick series of precision cuts resulting in perfectly-shaped Food Network-quality cubes of onion while I watch in envy.

To save face, I refer to my technique as “rustic.” She calls it something else. But 12 Fall 2006 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

we still take turns making dinner. When I’m up, I like to do it with style. My dinners are big-budget blockbusters, requiring tremendous amounts of skill and expertise, neither of which I possess. But I don’t let that stop me. I’m a “Big Picture” kind of guy. I measure the success of my meals by the amount of mess I create. My dinners begin with a few hours of research at Epicurious.com to cobble together an insanely complicated menu employing techniques I know nothing about. Next is my primary run to the grocery store, followed by a later, secondary run to pick up everything I forgot the first time. I’ll buy about $125 worth of obscure condiments to be used only once—such as walnut oil—which will then linger, neglected and sad, in the back of the fridge until they transform into a viscous black sludge, at which point I throw them away.

My mise en place technique consists simply of “dicing” (see Onion, above). For the actual cooking part, my rule of thumb is to use two sauté pans for each burner, a Dutch oven, fish baskets, copper pots, colanders, ramekins, food processors, double handfuls of assorted flatware and

every single kitchen knife in our block. Plus all the dish towels.

Since we are recently married, new vistas of mess-making opportunity have opened for me. I’ll root through brandnew boxes of kitchen appliances and bust out immersion blenders, ice cream makers and doublewide toasters for no reason other than we have them now.

I don’t know why I do this. I already know that on a theoretical level it is possible to deep-fry a waffle, so why do I need to create this reality? Perhaps on some unconscious level I feel that the more equipment I use, the better the food should be. Not that this explains away the bonito flakes on the oven knobs, but there must be some reason I empty the cabinets in search of that perfectly silky crab and avocado gazpacho with curried monkfish and five-spice dumplings, right?

Sometimes when I cook, people get hurt. Fortunately, it is usually me. Like the time I attempted to cook a spaghetti squash. Nature, in her infinite wisdom, clearly did not intend for us to eat these things, and I was a fool not to recognize this at the onset. Using my chef ’s knife, I tried to cut the raw squash down the

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middle. Its thick rind thwarted my assault.

“Aha,” I thought. “Clearly, I need more leverage.” I came up with a new plan.

Whacking the knife into the head of the squash, I gripped the handle and the top of the blade with both hands and began lifting and banging the whole ensemble against the counter top, not unlike a monkey frustrated by a coconut.The buttend of the squash slipped, there was a flash of light off the blade, and the blood started to flow.

On the way to the emergency room, between screams, I was forced to reconsider my approach. “The squash obviously slid out because the countertop was so slick,” I said to my wife, who was behind the wheel. “Next time, I’ll bang it against the carpet, which will offer more grip. Or, better yet, I’ll just stand it up at one end of the driveway and throw hatchets at it from a safe distance.”

“You are such a wimp,” said my wife, who then illegally passed a semi on a twolane country road. For her, cuts and burns are just part of the job.While it is true that I run very little risk of being scalded with hot pork fat at my office, I do occasionally suffer lower back pain from a poorlyadjusted desk chair. Still, my gripes about carpal tunnel syndrome will forever be trumped by large blisters raised from close encounters with broiling-hot sheet pans.

Not that this keeps me from complaining about it, though.

When my wife cooks dinner (which, thankfully, is far more often then the times I put on my own spectacle) she looks in the fridge, looks in the pantry, and in 30 minutes she can pull together a balanced, composed meal of a vegetable, starch and protein, using approximately one percent of the pots and pans that I would go through making my patented Golden Raspberry and Chocolate Chip Bacon Pancake Surprise. It is frustrating, but I can’t complain. Her food is always delicious. Still, I must disclose that it lacks the theater of my own attempts. “Where is the sport in that?” I say, looking at her efforts. “The fire department didn’t have to come once.” I can’t help it. Give me knives. Give me drama. Give me Kitchen Stadium. Give me first aid. F&D www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Fall 2006 13

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BY RON JOHNSON

Lexington Something for everyone in the Bluegrass

W

hy does Lexington so clearly evoke what it means to be a Kentuckian? Part of its appeal must be the picturesque horse farms that dot the Bluegrass region’s gently rolling hills, each set apart by four-rail fences.

Then there’s the University of Kentucky with Wildcats basketball team that so many Kentuckians love. It’s smack dab in

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the middle of the Commonwealth, bridging varied regions and traditions into one Bluegrass state. For whatever reasons, Lexington inspires a visit by most every Kentuckian at some point. Whether it be for the Spring Meet at Keeneland or a Wildcats game at Rupp Arena, a visit to Lexington offers a great opportunity to experience some top flight grub.

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As a college town, it is not surprising that Lexington has more than its fair share of bars, taverns, and greasy spoons that offer affordable sandwiches, juicy burgers and the ubiquitous pitcher of draft beer.

Two Keys stands out as a place where current students and alumni mingle to enjoy the atmosphere … and the pub grub.

Equally popular and hosting a similar crowd is Lygnah’s Irish Pub, where many Big Blue fans gather before and after games for one of Lexington’s best burgers. Rounding out the trio of top bars for burgers is the Cheapside Bar & Grill, favored by the after-work set because of its convenient downtown location.

The college influence is just as obvious when it comes to quick and delicious lunch options. One of the most loved traditions is Alfalfa’s, now in the first floor of the new Arts Center downtown. Although it dispels the myth that vegetarian food is tasteless, this comfortable yet esoteric restaurant is just as famous for its meat dishes. Whatever your dietary requirements, you cannot go wrong with one of their sandwiches. For cold sandwiches and delicatessen-style foods, both Stanley J’s (don’t miss the potato salad!) and the Courtyard Deli are hits with the locals.

The pizza at Joe Bologna’s is certainly a viable lunch option, but the pies at this local pizzeria are so good that many think of it as a great destination for dinner as well. Call it “Joe B’s” and no one will know you’re a tourist.

Traditional Kentucky cuisine, though, is Lexington’s dining trademark. Dudley’s offers a mix of tradition and more modern takes on the classics in a renovated school house built in 1881. The structure suits the restaurant perfectly. Several dining areas fill a rambling series of rooms, lending a feeling of privacy while maintaining the character and history of the building. A fine wine list is a major draw for those who put (OPPOSITE PAGE): Chef Jonathan Lundy’s Fried Green Tomato Salad at Lexington’s Jonathan at Gratz Park consists of cornmeal fried green tomatoes with limestone bibb lettuce topped with buttermilk dressing, roasted red peppers and applewood-smoked bacon.

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a premium on pairing a good bottle with dinner. Jonathan at Gratz Park is another Lexington favorite that elevates regional dishes with quality ingredients and skillful hands in the kitchen.The setting at Gratz Park Inn is beautiful and lends to the feeling of being in the Bluegrass.

Another southern food restaurant worthy of mention is the Merrick Inn. The food might not be the most cutting-edge, but there is comfort in sitting down to a menu full of familiar favorites made well.

But man cannot live on Kentucky cuisine alone, and Lexington offers plenty of options to feed every appetite. For lovers of Italian food, Portofino is a fine choice. Classic and familiar dishes are available as well as more adventurous specials, but the constant theme is gracious service and a fun atmosphere. Le Bistro is quietly developing a reputation as the place for authentic but unpretentious French food.

While leaving the pomp and circumstance of haute cuisine to the more stuffy joints, Chef Mohammed consistently turns out tasty and affordable bistro staples. Those who seek the trappings of a more formal and elegant French dining experience will be more than pleased with Le Deauville or Metropol.

Outlying areas around Lexington hold serious dining destinations in their own right. Just outside Midway, Holly Hill Inn is the dining destination where Chef Ouita Michel takes a new spin on Kentucky cuisine in a pastoral setting among horse farms. In Midway’s quaint downtown, diners will be impressed with the food at Heirloom and Black Tulip. Chef Michel’s brother-inlaw, Jared Richardson, is turning out upscale sandwiches and artisanal baked goods at Wallace Station on Old Frankfort Pike.

Even if you don’t cash a ticket at Keeneland or the Cats don’t bring home a win at Rupp Arena, there’s a lot to like about Lexington, Kentucky. The cuisine spans the range from college hangouts to white-tablecloth elegance, and the locations vary from downtown sophistication to rural beauty and charm. There really is something for everyone in the Bluegrass. F&D www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Fall 2006 15

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BY GREG GAPSIS | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

the heat of the matter Louisville’s dining scene is heating up—quite literally— as chefs discover a new curiosity and inventiveness in using hot chile peppers in novel ways.

This gradual but likely relentless evolution is increasingly tempting diners, even those who have considered chiles as fallen angels in the heavenly hierarchy of vegetables.

(Pictured from the left, three varieties of chile peppers from Market on Market: hot pixie, cayenne and Congo Trinidad peppers.)

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about food chiles

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BY GREG GAPSIS | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

xotic, bold and often fiery, chiles excite.Yet cautious and even Puritan palates remain wary, hoping to keep order on the culinary landscape. Fiery fare inspires a misapprehension that grows from language and cultural differences and even the confusing variety of chiles themselves.

But all this is changing.

As media, travel and migration bring diverse world cultures deeper into the heartland, new dining experiences come along. A consistent theme among many of these experiences—whether Asian, African, Caribbean or Indian—lies in their use of chiles to add vibrant flavor, heat and light.

Serrano and guajillo peppers put soul into salsas. Scotch Bonnets give Jamaican jerk its fire. South American aji amarillo peppers highlight seafood seviches and meat dishes alike. Chiles ignite the sweet, salty and vinegary elements of Sichuan and Hunan cooking. Fiery harissa plays a drumbeat with East African dishes. And tiny, fiery wild chiltepins or domesticated pequins lend deep, hot flavors to Rio Grande chili, the traditional “bowl of red.”

When our chefs present both traditional and novel dishes using chiles, they pull back the cur tain to reveal these ancient American food treasures, revealing a broad spectrum of palate-stimulating flavor.

“While Louisville tends to be a little conservative, people are getting more interested in these flavors,” said Allan Rosenberg, executive chef at BLU Italian Mediterranean Grill. “Our new menu features an aji amarillo tuna with peperonata, an Italian dish of slowly braised red peppers, onions and anchovies with spicy red pepper flakes, sweet and spicy tomato jam and crispy capers in an aged balsamic vinegar and port reduction.”

Danielle’s Josh Hillyard, who attended culinary school in Los Angeles with classmates from Guatemala, Mexico and Costa Rica, agrees the doors are opening on a new appreciation for vibrant flavors.

“Many people tend to think of Southwestern and Mexican cooking as always spicy, and can be scared of them,” Hillyard said. “But there are a lot of flavors to work with that are earthy and with a real complexity. Our Southwest-influenced

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summer menu included dishes like ancho mole-braised duck breast with kabocha squash and spicy tomato jam. For the most par t, we are having a good response.

People are open-minded.”

Hillyard said his responsibility as a chef is to be as descriptive as possible in explaining such novel offerings. He believes Louisville’s dining scene is growing and includes space for items like Romaine salads with smoky-hot chipotle vinaigrette.

Primo’s Michael Hargrove agrees.

“It’s getting more refined.We’re seeing a lot of interest, and people are starting to play with more things like sweet and spicy, instead of like five years ago when some people were just putting Tabasco on everything,” Hargrove said. “We have a chile oil which people can ask for, but we also tried a chocolate and chile gelato recently. It had adobo, chipotle and Thai peppers in it and was well-received.”

These inventive combinations spring from a new appreciation for chiles, which have been long associated with exotic cuisines but which were actually born in the Americas.

THE AMERICAS’ GIFT TO THE WORLD The genus of Capiscums originated as fruits of small plants growing under South America’s Amazonian jungle canopy. It is suspected that seeds of the brightly colored, pungent pods were likely spread by birds, who are immune to the fire of chiles because they lack receptors for the powerful oleoresins that give mammals the convincing sensation of heat.

Ethnobotanists estimate that 25 original species evolved, five of which have been domesticated; and those spread throughout South America, Central America and Southern North America and nearby Caribbean islands before Columbus arrived in 1492.

Archaeogical evidence suggests that chiles were being cultivated by Americans nearly 10,000 years ago, along with beans, corn and squash.They were a staple for the Incas, Olmecs,Toltecs, Mayans and Aztecs.

Columbus, seeking a Western route to the Orient in search of the extremely valuable spice pepper, mistakenly named

chiles “peppers” too, a botanical inaccuracy that persists to this day. In fact, chile peppers and black spice pepper (piper nigrum) are not related.

Nevertheless, Columbus’s discovery— chiles, we mean—are easily dried and retain their flavor in dried form. Europeans quickly adopted them as a welcome alternative for adding spicy flavors to food.

Chiles are also much easier to grow than pepper. Soon chile seeds were being shared across the Iberian peninsula; they accompanied Portuguese sailors on their eastward voyages of discovery and trade around Africa’s Cape of Good Hope.

With amazing speed, they arrived and were passionately adopted in Africa, the Middle East, India and Asia within less than 100 years. Although it’s often assumed that chiles were always central to these ethnic cuisines, chiles are truly the Americas’ gift to the world.

GETTING BEYOND CONFUSION It is estimated that between 50 and 200 varieties of chiles are used in Mexican cuisine alone.When we count the varieties across the globe, nearly 1,000 come into play.

Naming rights for chiles have been claimed by every nation that prizes them.

Different names may be applied to the same chiles in different places, and names may also vary depending on whether the chile is wild or cultivated, fresh or dried, smoked or pickled.

For example, the fresh poblano pepper, a broad-topped, darker and slightly smaller version of a sweet bell pepper, is Mexico’s most popular chile. It is familiar to most Americans when stuffed with cheese and fried as Chile Relleno. When dried, however, the same chile is commonly called “Ancho,” but it can also be labelled as a “Pasilla” or “Joto.” Such diversity can be daunting.

What’s more, it’s only recently and after heated debate that food writing has begun to standardize the varied spellings of “chilli,” “chili,” and “chile,” as well as “red peppers” and “hot peppers.”

Here’s the simple rule: “Chile” with an “e” is the Spanish adaptation of “chilli,” the Aztec name for these tasty fruit pods in

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general. “Chili” with an “i” now commonly refers to the thick and spicy stews made, in the Texas border country at least, with diced beef and chiles and, in some less orthodox renditions, beans.

When making your way through the grocery store, remember that chile powder with an “e” refers to pure ground, dried chile peppers. It is also sometimes called cayenne or ground red pepper. Chili powder spelled with an “i” is the seasoning mix of dried chiles, garlic, oregano, cumin, coriander and cloves used to flavor chilis, cooked meat and sauces.

To sort through the myriad chile cultivars, it is useful to become familiar with a half-dozen core varieties, ranked by their relative heat at maturity.This measurement is most often done using a scale developed in 1912 by chemist Wilbur Scoville (see scale at right).

The active ingredient in chiles is known by the chemical name capsaicinoids, five of which occur naturally, with the highest concentrations being along the ribs (or “placenta”) inside the fruit pods where seeds develop. Capsaicinoids are extremely potent, so Scoville came up with the idea of measuring their strength by diluting them in water, measuring how much water was needed to reduce the heat to the point where it could no longer be detected by tasting. A dilution ratio of 1,000 parts water to one part capsaicinoid yields a rating of 1,000 Scoville Units.

Today, human taste testers have been mostly replaced by the mechanical precision of high-performance liquid chromatography, but the results are still expressed in Scoville Units. Pure capsaicin is rated at 16 million units, an almost incomprehensible heat potency. Chile varieties—even the strongest—all register no more than 1/32 of this maximum, but that still leaves open a startling range of heat.

EXPERIMENTS IN FLAVOR But heat, although it may be the trademark character of chiles, is far from the whole story. It is a sad mistake to think of experiencing chiles as the mere equivalent of a fraternity hazing ritual.

Chiles pack a wide range of flavors, from fruit and sweet highlights to more pungent tones. Depending on whether a chile is fresh, dried or pickled (en escabeche), flavors may be crisp, deep and dusky and can actually add “lightness” as well as flavor, texture and acidity to a dish.

Chile heat can strike immediately upon tasting, or emerge slowly from the back of the throat as you eat. It is neither permanent nor necessarily unpleasant. As an inexpensive educational experiment, we suggest you buy and sample a selection of fresh chiles, which are now available in wide variety at most grocery and many local ethnic speciality stores.

Regardless of shape or size, when you’re buying fresh chiles, look for firm, smooth flesh without signs of softening, bruises or mold. Wash and dry them and store them in a paper bag or wrapped in paper towels in the refrigerator crisper drawer. Plastic bags tend to foster moisture from condensation, and they’ll go bad sooner.

Ready to taste? Using a clean knife, slice off a strip of the pulpy wall of a pepper, taking care to avoid any seeds or the white interior ribs to which they are attached. Also, avoid touching any sensitive body part with a finger that might have the chile’s oil on it. Either wear plastic food prep gloves or scrub well with hot soap and water to avoid spreading any of the volatile oils.

SCOVILLE UNITS Mild bell peppers and sweet banana peppers 500 – 1,000 Nu-Mex Big Jim and No. 6-4, and chili powder 1,500 – 2,500 Sandia, cascabel, and Yellow Wax Hot 5,000 – 15,000 Jalapeño, aji amarillo, serrano and Tabasco sauce 15,000 – 30,000 de arbol, crushed red pepper, habanero sauce 50,000 – 100,000 Santaka, chiltepin, rocoto, Chinese kwangsi 100,000 – 350,000 Scotch Bonnet, Habanero, Thai, African “bird’s eye” 200,000 – 500,000

SURF CITY

(online information guide) The Chile Pepper Institute, founded in 1991 at New Mexico State University, has an archive of information that ranges from growing tips to how to find fresh, frozen or dried chiles. http://spectre.nmsu.edu/dept/welcome.html?t=chile An industry supersite created by Dave DeWitt, one of the founders of Chile Pepper magazine and a prolific author. One feature is the annual “Scovie Awards” for best products in many different categories. www.fiery-foods.com Graham Caselton, a U.K.-based chile-head and “mystic priest of the Transcendental Capsaicinophilic Society,” maintains a truly impressive website of information, product reviews and recipes. www.g6csy.net/chile/index.html Gernot Katzer’s Spice Pages provide a tour of the world’s names for treasured chiles and has excellent photos to help the learning process. www.uni-graz.at/~katzer/engl/Caps_fru.html Chet Bacon wins honors for his website. The links alone provide for a world tour of chiles and their uses. www.chetbacon.com/hotlinks.html Carl McCaskey has an exceptional page of links to guide those exploring the world of hot chiles. www.nettally.com/saints/pepperhead.html www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Fall 2006 19

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Evan Clark, chef at RAW Sushi Lounge, serves up a pan-seared Mongchong (Korean for “stupid fish�) served atop a Peruvian purple potato latke with Anaheim chiles and goat cheese, finished with a sweet ancho chile Beurre Blanc sauce.

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If one taste proves too hot, neutralize it with a dairy product such as milk, sour cream or cheese. Salt helps, too, but cold water, soda or beer will not. Since the active agents in chiles are oily, watery drinks will not dilute but only spread them in your mouth. In other words, oil and water don’t mix.

Next, after tasting chiles raw, try lightly roasting or dry-frying them. Heat until the skin blisters and can be easily pulled off.

This procedure is recommended for most fresh uses except when mincing or chopping to add to salsas, salads or seviches. Be careful not to burn your chiles when roasting, as this may make them bitter.

You will be surprised at the different flavors you taste, their relative strengths and piquancy, and the immense possibilities that they inspire for blending and building with their flavors in any dish.

Mark Miller, a Santa Fe chef who has pursued a life-long fascination with chiles, suggests in The Great Chile Book that cooks consider the wide range of heat, acidity and citrus flavor available in chiles and use them accordingly.

“For example, the habanero with its lively taste reminiscent of mango or papaya and its hot, clear qualities is probably my most favorite chile of all,” Miller writes. “It, and its close relative, the Scotch Bonnet, will pick up the flavors of a tropical salsa by reinforcing the fruity tropical tones.

Serranos, with their sharper green accents, go particularly well with tomatoes and cilantro and would be my choice for a dish that contains those ingredients.”

When working with roasted chiles, Miller suggests blending flavors. “Poblanos, jalapeños and serranos complement each other well, and combining them adds a pleasing complexity to a sauce,” Miller writes. “This is something you can experiment with as you become more comfortable.”

in airtight containers in a cool, dry place for up to six months.

If not being ground or shredded to use as a condiment, dried chiles should first be reconstituted by dry-roasting them for three or four minutes in a skillet or 250-degree oven before rehydrating. Be careful not to scorch them or they will turn bitter.

Remove the stems, which can sometimes add an unnecessary bitterness; tap out and discard seeds if you want to adjust the heat level, and put them into nearly boiling water. Put a lid or plate over them to keep them submerged and leave for about 20 minutes or until they are soft.

Save the water (unless it tastes bitter) and use it, or fresh water, to puree the hydrated chiles in a blender.

Put the pureed chiles through a strainer to remove the seeds and skin.

What remains is a flavorful paste that can be used in sauces, soups, salsas and, with added sweeteners like a jelly or honey, as a glaze or marinade.

The drying process concentrates natural sugars and oils, often giving dried chiles distinctive and more complex flavors than their fresh versions. These concentrated flavors provide a real opportunity to explore, experiment and enjoy long after the growing season is over.

Miller likens the art of making sauces from dried chiles to composing music.“The most interesting sauces made with dried chiles are like musical chords in that they consist of bass, middle range and high notes,” he writes in The Great Chile Book.

“The bass notes are created by the roasting or smoking process and these are the earthy, woodsy, or smoky tones. The middle notes are mainly fruit flavors, such as dried cherry or plum, particularly present in dried chiles such as the ancho and the cascabel. The high notes are derived from the heat, and from the citrus qualities of chiles.”

DRIED CHILES

GROWING CHILES

When shopping for dried chiles, look for deep, consistent colors and whole pods that are not moldy or dusty. Broken pods allow aromatic oils, which carry much of the flavor, to evaporate.

Dried chiles from a recent crop will still be slightly flexible, not brittle, and will have an appetizing aroma.They can be kept

Chiles spread around the globe because they are easy to grow, requiring only decent soil, warmth and a lot of sunlight.

“Peppers do well here. You won’t have a problem growing them,” says Donna Michael, University of Kentucky’s horticultural county extension agent in www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Fall 2006 21

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Danielle’s Chef Josh Hillyard presents ancho chile mole-braised duck breast with duck confit and kabocha squash with duck rillette, finished with a Zinfandel duck glaze.

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Louisville. “I see the popularity of them and questions go up, especially when new cultivars come out.”

Although chiles are technically perennials, winter temperatures in the Ohio Valley tend to rule otherwise.

Accordingly, to get maximum yield, you’ll need to extend the growing season by either starting early or protecting plants from frosts later in the season, or preferably both.

Star t plants from seed in late February, about eight to 10 weeks before the usual last frost, or buy established plants from nurseries ready for planting in early May. Spread black plastic over a welldrained area to warm the soil before planting outdoors in spring, and keep it down as a mulch to discourage weeds and retain soil moisture during the summer.

To maximize yields, pick chile pods as soon as they reach mature size and just start to ripen. A fully loaded plant will stop producing new fruit even if good

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growing weather continues. Harvesting your chile pods in a timely manner, however, signals the plant to flower and set fruit, improving the prospect of a bountiful harvest.

Once harvested, most chiles are best preserved by drying, except for the meatier jalapeño which is better smoked (chipotle) or pickled (en escabeche).

For detailed directions for freezing or pickling your harvest, visit the University of Kentucky’s extension service website, www.ca.uky.edu/agc/pubs/pubs.htm In the desert Southwest, chile lovers enjoy stringing peppers into long garlands called ristas and hanging them to dry. The Ohio Valley’s humid summers, though, can wreak havoc with your harvest through mold, rot and insect predators. The solution, according to Jeff Schaad, a master gardener with 20 years experience with chiles, is to run your harvested bounty through a dehydrator.

“I’m keeping a big, 12-tray dehydrator pretty full these days,” Schaad said. “One

day is all it takes. I feel like I’m putting up treasure this time of year, with prices being what they are.”

Schaad enjoys his harvest, whether he uses it fresh in salsas, or fresh-frozen for later, as a glaze fashioned from chile sauce and honey, or dried and used as a condiment or rub.

“Ancho is probably my favorite,” Schaad said. “Once dried, I make a rub out of it that I use on steak. Even my wife likes it. She agrees it really is good.”

Schaad admits his attraction to chiles began more than two decades ago because he was “intrigued by how a plant could be so hot.” But he also thinks their complexity and flavors are making significant inroads even at casual dining locations.

“Now everybody can get true Mexican flavors, not like a few years ago,” Schaad said. “When you see bottles of hot sauce on the counter before you see catsup, you definitely know this is the trend.”

Chef Allan Rosenberg of BLU presents a simple dish of seared aji amarillo tuna with peperonata, tomato jam, crispy capers and a port-wine reduction.

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Mexico City native Israel Landin, proprietor of La Rosita, an authentic Mexican eatery in New Albany, offers comments about various chiles to help guide your explorations. They’re listed from mild to hot, and F = fresh, D = dried.

Poblano (F) – “Weather and size can affect how hot they are. Always use roasted for Chile Rellenos, in salads, soups and salsas. Dried, it is the Ancho, one of the sweetest and most widely used dried chiles in Mexico and an important part of moles.”

Guajillo (D) – “This is one of the most popular chiles. It has some berry flavor and a sweet heat. We use it for everything: soups, chorizos, and sauces for enchiladas.”

Jalapeño (F) – “It is the most popular fresh chile used in making salsas and pico de gallo. Roasted, it is popular stuffed with tuna.They are also available pickled, (en escabeche). The heat is in the veins.”

Chipotle (D) – “Very popular, these are smoked jalapeños and used in soups, salsas and sauces. Their smoky flavor is good on pork chops. Canned and marinated they are used on a traditional dish of shredded beef and onions called ‘Tinga.’”

Serranos (F) – “They can be either spicy or mild but are generally hotter. Good for homemade salsa or pico de gallo and as an addition to guacamole or an omelet.They tickle your mouth.”

Pequin (D) – “These are hot with a quick heat. Good ground fine and put on fruit like watermelon, cantaloupe, cucumbers, jicama and mangos. Also good on grilled or roast corn on the cob.”

Hot and cold: Smoky chipotle chile flavors add a piquant accent to cool, creamy chocolate gelato in this unique dessert, created by Primo Chefs Michael Hargrove and Tony Sorrell in collaboration with Gelato Gilberto’s Justin Gilberto.

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Habaneros (F & D) – “Have good flavor and heat comes slowly. Everybody knows it’s pretty hot, but it kicks you and then goes away. They are good with serranos in seviche, stuffed with tuna and then grilled, or marinated with limes, oregano, onion and salt for adding to salads.” F&D

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recipes top chef recipes

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PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

Cooking with Chiles

guest chefs Anthony Lamas and Michael Crouch use chiles in uncommon w ays

A

larming to the unwary and a challenge to the macho, hot chile peppers can be one of the most exciting ingredients on the artistic chef ’s palette. Overdo them, though, and you’ve got a burning mess that most diners can’t abide. But pull back too far from the brink, and you don’t take full advantage of all that these warming tropical peppers can give.

A well-made dish featuring hot chile peppers should be about complex layers of flavor that sing together in harmony like voices in a choir.

Seeking instruction from the experts, Food & Dining invited two of Louisville’s top chefs to create recipes that showcase chile peppers in memorable dishes that a competent cook should be able to replicate at home.

Chef Anthony Lamas of Seviche came up with a seviche, of course, featuring top-grade “diver” scallops. For a heartier second dish, he created a robust wintry dish of beef short ribs braised with chipotles and Mexican Negra Modelo beer.

Chef Anthony Lamas’s Scallop Seviche

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Chef Michael Crouch of Bourbons Bistro built a stylish, European-style duck confit strudel with wild mushrooms, roasted shallots, fresh goat cheese and candied chiles. His second course is a refined dinner option too, lobster pasta served with a Sherry cream sauce.

Where do chefs get these ideas? It’s a combination of experience and thinking a lot about food, says Lamas. The idea for this seviche dish came from a summer salad with passion fruit vinaigrette and hearts of palm; it took only a little experimenting and tasting to convert those flavors into a stunning seviche.

The short rib dish was similar, he said. It’s adapted from another Seviche favorite, a “deconstructed” short-rib tamale made from long-cooked rib beef carefully separated from fat, gristle and bone and finished with Latin flavors.

Some of the ingredients for these dishes may not be available at the corner grocery, Lamas said, but he encourages you to make the effort to find the real thing at local ethnic markets and don’t accept substitutes.The quality difference in authentic ingredients pays off.

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Chef Anthony Lamas’s Chipotle-Negra Modelo Braised Short Ribs

Chef Michael Crouch’s Lobster Pasta

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Guest Chef

Anthony Lamas Seviche A Latin Restaurant 1538 Bardstown Rd. (502) 473-8560

Chipotle-Negra Modelo Braised Short Ribs (SERVES 8) 10 pounds beef short ribs 2 carrots, chopped 2 stalks celery, chopped 2 white onions, chopped 1 can chipotle chiles in adobo 6 bottles Negra Modelo beer 1 /4 cup kosher salt 4 cups beef stock

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1. Preheat oven to 500 degrees.

2. Place the ribs, the chopped carrots, celery and onions and the salt in a roasting pan, and braise in the preheated oven for one hour.

3. Add the beer, chipotles, and beef stock to the pan, cover, and return it to the oven, lowering the temperature to 350 degrees.

Continue cooking for four hours until the ribs are “falling off the bone” tender.

4. Trim the meat, discarding fat and cartilage. Reserve the pan liquids to use as sauce.

Scallop Seviche (SERVES 8) 20 sushi grade dry-packed diver sea scallops For the Passion Fruit Marinade: 1 quart passion fruit puree 2 minced habanero peppers Juice of 4 limes Juice of 4 lemons 2 tablespoons kosher salt 1 tablespoon white pepper 1 diced red onion

For the Garnish: 1 can hearts of palm 2 cups pico de gallo, fresh Vietnamese-style Sriracha sauce (optional) 1. Prepare and blend all the passion fruit marinade ingredients.

2. Remove the abductor muscle from each scallop, if present, and slice each scallop into two half-rounds.

3. Place the scallops in a large, non-reactive (glass or anodized aluminum) flat-bottom container, cover them with the marinade, and refrigerate for at least one hour.

4. For each serving, spread a small pool of the marinade on a shallow plate, and arrange five marinated scallop halves on it, topped with a couple of tablespoons of pico de gallo and one heart of palm stalk. You may also wish to decorate the rim of the plate with a chile drizzle of your choice. One excellent option is Vietnamese-style Sriracha sauce, a fiery Asian chile paste with a brilliant red color. It comes in a squeeze bottle that makes decorating easy.

Chef Michael Crouch’s Duck Confit Strudel

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Guest Chef

Michael Crouch Bourbons Bistro 2255 Frankfort Ave. (502) 894-8838

Duck Confit Strudel (SERVES 6) 4 duck legs 1 /8 cup coarse sea salt Fresh thyme 6-10 bay leaves 3-5 pounds rendered duck fat Assorted chiles (banana peppers, Hungarian wax peppers, poblanos) 1 /4 pound butter 3 tablespoons sugar 3 /4 cup apple cider vinegar 1 /4 cup water 6 shallots 1 /2 pound oyster mushrooms 1 pound package phyllo dough 8 ounces fresh goat cheese 2 ounces fresh arugula 1 /8 cup Sherry 2 cups heavy cream Salt Black pepper For the Duck Confit: 1. Rub the duck legs with coarse sea salt, bay leaf and fresh thyme. Put in a large bowl and refrigerate for 24 hours.

2. Pan-sear the duck legs until golden brown. Put the duck fat in a large saucepan, bring to a simmer, put in the duck legs (careful, the fat will be very hot) and cook for about two hours, until forktender. Remove duck legs from the fat and let them cool, then pull the meat off the bone.

For the Candied Chiles: 1. Julienne the assorted chiles and sauté then in a small amount of the butter. Add sugar, vinegar, and 1/4 cup of water. Cook down until all liquid is gone.

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For the Strudel: 1. Roast and chop three of the shallots and sauté the oyster mushrooms in a little butter.

2. Cover a sheet tray with parchment paper and layer with phyllo dough, brushing each layer of the dough with melted butter.You’ll use about eight sheets.

3. On one end of the stack of buttered phyllo place the duck, goat cheese, candied chiles, arugula, roasted shallots and sautéed oyster mushrooms. Roll up the phyllo and filling in the shape of a log, pinch its ends closed and brush the top with butter.

4. Bake at 350 degrees for about 30 minutes or until golden brown.

Sauce and service: 1. Chop the remaining shallots and sauté them until golden in the remaining butter.

Add the Sherry, then the cream. Simmer to reduce until it’s thick enough to coat the back of spoon, then season with salt and pepper to taste.

2. Slice the strudel into rounds and serve with the sauce.

Lobster Pasta (SERVES 5) 11/2 to 2 pounds lobster meat 5 tomatoes (chopped) 1 /8 cup crushed garlic cloves 1 red onion, julienned 1-2 minced jalepeños (or banana peppers for a milder taste) 1 /8 pound basil leaves (sliced into a fine chiffonade) 11/2 cups dry white wine 1 pound angel hair pasta (capellini) Salt Black pepper 5 tablespoons cold butter 1. Cook the pasta in a large pot with plenty of well salted water at a full boil.This thin pasta cooks quickly, so plan your timing so the pasta and lobster will finish at the same time.

2. Sauté lobster, tomatoes, garlic, red onion and chiles 2 to 3 minutes in a large frying pan.

3. When the lobster is almost cooked— it only takes a moment or two—add the basil and white wine and toss the finished mixture in a pan with the cooked, drained pasta. Season to taste with salt and pepper, remove from heat, and stir in the butter. F&D www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Fall 2006 29

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BY ROBIN GARR

POP L

et’s make one thing perfectly clear:When nothing but the best will do in sparkling wine and price is no object, there’s only one option: Champagne, the real deal from France. The wine makers of Champagne have been mastering the secrets of quality bubbly since the Benedictine monk-and-winemaker Dom Pierre Pérignon perfected the stuff during the 1660s.With all those years of experience under their belts, plus the benefits of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier vines that go back for generations, it’s no surprise that the Champenois have got it just about right.

Indeed, the term “Champagne” is properly used only for sparkling wines, individually fermented in the bottle, from the French region of that name. In fact, in most of the world this is a matter of law: It is illegal to label a sparkling wine “Champagne” if it’s not the real thing. The United States has declined to sign on to this international agreement, but even here, only a few brands violate the spirit of the rule, and—make of this what you will—the exceptions are generally cheap and not particularly appealing bubblies.

But you’ll pay a price for all that history, not to mention all that labor-intensive, made-by-hand production and bottling. It’s a rare thing to find a quality non-vintage Champagne for less than $25 or so, and fine vintage labels quickly rise into the triple figures.

Sometimes, frankly, when we balance the benefits of cost and value, it’s reasonable to leave a few bucks in our pockets and choose “almost as good.” The key to making fine sparkling wine is hardly a secret—even cloistered monks are bound to babble a bit after 340 years—and there’s plenty of fine bubbly to be had from sources as varied as Italy, Spain, the U.S., South America, Australia and beyond.

As the holiday season and New Year’s Eve draw near, this would be a good time for a quick regional rundown of sparkling-wine alternatives.

THE U.S.—You’ll find a full range of American bubblies, from very high-end sparkling wines that approach Champagne in cachet and price, to industrial swill that’s no value at $5. It shouldn’t pass notice that many of the top French Champagne producers, such as Chandon, Mumm, Roederer, Piper and more, have established vineyards and production facilities in California. They don’t call the resulting product “Champagne,” but the allAmerican Korbel and a few other producers do use the French name, taking advantage of a loophole in international treaties that bar use of the name in most other nations.

THE REST OF FRANCE—Don’t forget that even in France, producers outside the limited Champagne region are forbidden to use the “C word,” or even “Methode Champenoise” (“Champagne Method”) on the label. Look instead for the word “Cremant” (which literally means “creaming” but implies “foaming”), connected with a regional name. Some of my favorites include Cremant de Bourgogne, Cremant d’Alsace, Blanquette de Limoux and, maybe best of all, the delicious and affordable sparkling Chenin Blanc, Cremant de la Loire. Many of these should retail for $15 to $20.

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ITALY—Perhaps the top Italian sparkling wine is Franciacorta, from Lombardy, a serious bubbly made by the traditional Champagne-style fermented-in-the-bottle process. Franciacorta can easily match nonvintage Champagne for quality, but it also gives Champagne a run for its money, literally, in price. For budget bubbly enjoyment, consider Prosecco, the fun, frothy sparkling wine from the region around Venice in the Northeast. Gaining popularity around the world for its good balance of quality and price, Prosecco is made by the Charmat process—carbonated in vats, not individual bottles—but in contrast with cheap U.S. sparklers, it shows up well.

Mass-market labels can be forgettable, but look for artisanal Prosecco, particularly from the Valdobbiadene region, for my pick as the No. 1 affordable bubbly. Look for value in the $15 to $20 range, with a bit of wariness as the price drops toward $10.

Another Italian option, the long-popular Asti (formerly Asti Spumante), made from Moscato grapes, offers an interesting and affordable alternative for those who appreciate their bubbly grapey and sweet.

SPAIN—The most familiar imported sparkling wine other than Champagne may be Cava, the Spanish sparkling wine. Cava is made all over Spain, but most popular brands, including Freixenet in its familiar black bottle, hail from Catalunya, the region around Barcelona. My personal preference leans slightly toward Prosecco from Cava in a one-on-one match, but the popular Spanish brands are hard to beat for simple fizzy enjoyment in the $10 range.

THE REST OF THE WORLD—I’ve had credible sparklers from Australia, which can resemble California bubbly in style and price, not to mention the strangely intriguing concept of sparkling red Shiraz.

You’ll find good sparklers from South America (where bubblies come from both Argentina and Chile), South Africa and even from Great Britain, where a small but thriving cottage industry in Cornwall produces such occasionally seen sparklers as Camel Valley and Nyetimber. Sparkling wines come from just about everywhere.

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Germany calls it Sekt, but keeps most of the production at home; you’ll find only an occasional export. I’ve had excellent sparklers from Michigan (Mawby) and intriguingly offbeat sparkling and syrupy sweet ice wine from Canada (Inniskillin); and I’ve encountered a few very low-end bubblies from Bulgaria and other Eastern European nations that didn’t really inspire a wish for a second glass.

Let’s wrap up today’s report with a tasting of an exceptionally fine Italian Prosecco that has been available at good wine shops in Louisville.

Bortolotti Spumanti Prosecco Valdobbiadene Extra Dry ($16) This excellent Italian Prosecco, a fraction the price of Champagne, is fine enough for New Year’s toasting, and it also made a stylish summer table wine and hotweather quaffer. It’s a clear, light straw color with a greenish hue and a persistent stream of bubbles. Its aromas are light and fresh, fresh apples and citrus. On the palate it’s crisp and dry, with gently tart lime and green-apple flavors and a refreshing note of prickly carbonation, trailing off to a clean, dry citric snap in the finish. F&D

Louisville’s Best Kept Secret.

“Equus is not only one of the city’s best, it is absolutely one of the best.”

Susan Reigler, The Courier-Journal, October 2004

Equus has been preparing American-regional cuisine with Kentucky accents for 20 years.

WHERE HAVE YOU BEEN?

EQUUS RESTAURANT/ JACK’S LOUNGE 1 2 2 S E A R S AV E N U E • S T. M AT T H E W S • ( 5 0 2 ) 8 9 7 - 9 7 2 1 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Fall 2006 31

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BY ROGER A. BAYLOR

Fruits& IN MY BEER … DO DA DO DA Veggies “It is not right,” my German friend declared adamantly, talking shop while we enjoyed doppelbock in the liter mugs that the Germans call Masses: “According to Reinheitsgebot, you must use only grain, hops and water to make beer— not pumpkins, or chili peppers, or coffee!”

He was right … but he was wrong. Welcome to the wide and wonderful world of cultural relativism in brewing, where nature’s bounty

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can provide an unexpected source for beerdrinking pleasures.

Reinheitsgebot—the centuries-old “beer purity law” that German beer aficionados happily cite at the drop of a Mass—can be taken several ways. It was an early guide to pre-industrial market protection and price fixing in the brewery business. But it is surely best known for limiting the ingredients permissible in making beer to a stark few ingredients—a list that failed to include the indispensable living yeast, whose role in fermentation was not understood when the law was written in the year 1516.

Bear in mind t h a t German brewing practices subsequently evolved, in conjunction with technological innovation, to produce beers specifically suited to the purity law. Consider also that

the overwhelming majority of modern German brewers and drinkers continue to this day to regard Reinheitsgebot’s helpful hints as a sort of 11th Commandment.This firm, 500-year commitment to purity explains much about Germany’s work habits, its local beer markets, its consumer preferences, and at last, the reality that allmalt pilsners are far superior to facsimile beers choked with rice or corn in addition to pure barley malt.

But a law that binds one geographical region, however major in the world of brewing, carries little weight in other places, where other hands may choose to deploy a wide range of fermentables, spices, flora and even the occasional bivalve in the brewer’s arsenal of tricks.

Did he say bivalve?

Yes, it’s true. In English brewing history, certain stouts don’t simply accompany oysters with delicious effect; they actually contained oysters—and at least one stout brewed on the Isle of Man still does so.

And that’s just the beginning. Among stouts, only one among many categories of dark ale, other recognized sub-styles of stouts both mild and heavy may be flavored with chocolate (Rogue Chocolate Stout in America,Young’s Double Chocolate Stout in the UK); chicory (Delaware’s Dogfish Head); coffee (numerous brewpub

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beers worldwide, and the delectable Peche Mortel from Canada); cherries (Bell’s Cherry Stout), and from time to time, plums, cassis and blueberries.

Well, why not? Stout isn’t a German style, and Reinheitsgebot has nothing to say about it.

The roasted barley and specialized dark malts used to brew stout and its kissing cousin, porter, naturally lend themselves to rich flavors redolent of chocolate, coffee and some “stone” fruits (those containing pits). Add a pantry full of cereal grains: Oatmeal, for instance, can provide a silky, elegant sheen to a sweet stout, as with Samuel Smith’s textbook Oatmeal Stout.

Ready for something a little more indigenous?

During the millennia from beer’s ancient origin until brewing became a mass-produced good during the Industrial Revolution, beer-making was a small-scale process. Brewing was firmly rooted in local agriculture, as farmhouse brewers used what was available to them to craft fermented, preserving the nutritive value of their crops while converting them into a product that was easy to trade. We associate pumpkins with America’s early colonists, who harvested this hefty squash for soup, side dishes and desserts. But did you know that they also brewed beer from pumpkins?

In like fashion, long before hops came to be the flavoring agent of choice for beer, many aromatic substances were pressed into similar duty, from coriander, chamomile and mugwort to orange peel, saffron and juniper berries.

Today’s new generation of craft brewers absorbs the wisdom of previous generations and creatively embellishes these traditions, as with the legendary Rogue brewery’s use of smoked chipotle peppers in its tasty Chipotle Ale. Says the brewery: Dedicated to Spanish author Juan de la Cueva, who, in 1575, wrote of a Mexican dish that combined seedless chipotles with beer: Chipotle Ale is based on Rogue’s Oregon Golden Ale, but delicately spiced with smoked chipotle chile peppers.

Want a marinade that transcends your grandfather’s old recipe? Combine five par ts Rogue Chipotle Ale with one

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part Rogue Chocolate Stout, and you’ve achieved a liquid mole.

Sometimes unexpected beer flavor components arise without the help of offbeat ingredients. Bavarian-style wheat ale, for instance, is brewed in full accordance with Reinheitsgebot’s stipulations, but its special yeast imparts fruity esters reminiscent of apples and bananas, and clove-scented phenols. Try familiar brands like Franziskaner and Weihenstephaner to taste the difference that yeast can make in beer.

Similarly, the sought-after Alaskan Smoked Porter and Bamberg, Germany’s fabled Rauchbiers (Schlenkerla and Spezial) all have an enticing smokiness that derives from the malting process, in which the soaked grain is dried over a roaring fire so aromatic wood smoke (alder in Alaska, beechwood in Germany) permeates the barley. Smoked ham and sausage isn’t an ingredient in Rauchbier, but they go delightfully with it.

In other words, the basics of the brewing process may be nearly universal, but many variables can add unexpected excitement to your pursuit of the perfect pint. At the same time, I’d be remiss if I didn’t emphasize the importance of a sense of balance when it comes to the brewer’s creative urges.

Verily, there are times when good intentions go awry.

Many years ago, a homebrewing buddy was supremely confident of success in the yearly state fair judging, although in retrospect, alarm bells should have rung when he refused to divulge the “secret ingredients” that would bring him fame and fortune at the awards ceremony.

“Just wait and try it,” he purred, “and you’ll see.”

We saw, and to be sure, it was a fine looking amber beer. Then we tasted it.

Brewed with wildly liberal doses of liquid smoke and essence of spruce (a legitimate ingredient in Finnish “sahti”), the resulting palate-stripper was the best answer yet offered to the frequently asked question, “What does Mr. Clean taste like?”

There’ll be missteps, of course, but don’t forget my beer tasting axiom: “It’s a permanent revolution, and if you’ve found the one beer you like … it’s time to begin again.” F&D www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Fall 2006 33

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BY JERRY SLATER | PHOTOGRAPH BY DAN DRY

Back in January, Dana Cowin, editor-in-chief of Food & Wine magazine, declared 2006 the Year of the Cocktail. This was good news for me: My interest in cocktails may not be in vain … and I might keep this writing job just a little longer.

As the year’s end approaches, a tutorial on building cocktails at home might be just the thing for the coming holiday season.

Anyone can open a bottle of wine or pour uncle Jack’s favorite bourbon on the rocks, but the rhythmic sound of ice against metal, the alluring shape of the perfect martini glass, and the satisfying taste of a well executed cocktail makes a party, well, festive.

Let’s begin with the where. If you have a bar in your home, great! You are halfway there. But for those who are bar-less, improvisation can be fun. That kitchen utility cart with the dustgathering espresso machine can be cleared off and wheeled next to the Christmas tree. The hipsters among us may use their old Welcome Back Kotter T.V. tray, but I digress.The goal here is to set aside enough space to comfortably gather your ingredients and mix up a batch of cocktails at your leisure.

Next, you need tools for the task. Let’s start with that rhythmic sound: martini shakers.They come in all shapes and sizes, from antique, art deco penguins to modern bullet shapes with 34 Fall 2006 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

built-in strainers. A shaker should be valued for its functionality.

Does it make a tight seal after your ingredients are added, yet does not get stuck after the drink is shaken? As for the shaking, as William Powell said in his role as Nick Charles in The Thin Man, “A Manhattan you shake to a foxtrot … a dry martini you always shake to waltz time.” An ice bucket is handy so you won’t have to keep running to the freezer. A few other bar tools that come in handy are muddlers (think mojitos), a strainer (if your shaker does not have one built-in), and a jigger for measuring out your favorite concoctions.

Okay, you’ve got the necessary tools, but you need the raw material to create your conversation lubricant. Keep in mind, your makeshift living-room cocktail cart does not have to be stocked like the back bar at The Rainbow Room. A cocktail party can be made memorable with just a few basics and one or two adventurous specialties. Consider your guest list and plan accordingly. A little beer and wine are good for those unwilling to leave their comfort zone, but we are here to talk liquor. I am of the camp that insists a martini is made from gin, but a vocal crowd votes for vodka. Solution: Buy one of each. For traditionalists, Stolichnaya and Tanqueray make classic vodka and gin, respectively, but there is a

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growing market for premium brands. If anything is more fun than holiday shopping, it is shopping for booze. I would add a bottle of bourbon, but remember … you’re not opening a tavern, and part of the communal fun is sharing the same liquid enlightenment that your friends are having.

Speaking of martinis, let’s not forget the ingredient that it needs in tiny proportions: Indulge in good vermouth.

The main reason most people want their martini “dry”—with little or no vermouth—is because most vermouth is undrinkable. Splurge on a bottle of Vya from California and understand the difference.The extra dry can be enjoyed as an aperitif, on the rocks with a slice of orange; and the sweet has a spicy bouquet that elevates, not masks, the bourbon in your manhattan.

Martinis for four—Put 10 ounces of gin (or vodka), 2 ounces of Vya extra dry vermouth and plenty of crushed ice in the shaker, and mambo until it’s cold. Divide among four chilled martini glasses.

Manhattans for two—Add 4 ounces of your favorite bourbon, 2 ounces Vya sweet vermouth, two dashes of bitters (Angostura or Regan’s #6), and plenty of cubed ice to the shaker, and foxtrot until it’s cold. Divide between two chilled martini glasses.

As for those specialty cocktails, let the holiday theme take over for the season.

Pomegranates are seasonal and popular at this time of year, and they fulfill the red half of our festive color scheme. For the green, let’s go simple and make the ladies happy to boot with the Appletini, popularized by Sex in the City. (The following recipes are for individual servings and are variations on a theme. Feel free to improvise with your favorite liqueur or flavor, such as Chambord for raspberry or Kahlua for coffee flavor.)

Pomegranate Martini—Put 11/2 ounces vodka, 1 ounce Pama liqueur, 1/2 ounce pomegranate juice and plenty of crushed ice in the shaker. Shake vigorously and strain into chilled martini glass.

Appletini—Add 11/2 ounces vodka, 1 ounce apple schnapps, 1/2 ounce apple juice and plenty of crushed ice to the shaker. Shake vigorously and strain into chilled martini glass. Garnish with green apple slice if desired. F&D www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Fall 2006 35

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BY DAVID LANGE

coffee [

B

uying coffee used to be simple: Go to your local market, review all the coffees in their vacuum-packed armor, and choose the one on sale or the one whose commercial caught your attention that week. Boring! Or if you were an 8-year-old boy, like me, you looked forward to a trip to the A & P with your mom, and watching while she ground a bag of 8 O’Clock coffee right there in the store. What an experience!

Things, thankfully, have changed. Many of us now regard that vacuum-packed canned coffee as inferior sludge, directed by the mass market to the cost conscious.

And the local A & P is no more—the aura of grinding it fresh has long since passed.

Now we hear all sorts of new buzz words about coffee; words that marketing gurus hope will influence our coffeebuying decisions. “Organic,” “Fair Trade” and “Shade-Grown” are all relatively new terms for elements of gourmet coffee today. Unfortunately many consumers become confused and wary when we see words that we don’t understand on coffee blends and varietals.What do these buzz words mean? Are some more desirable than the others? Let’s look at 36 Fall 2006 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

]

each term and what it means in relation to coffee.

“Organic” has been around a long time as a category for fruits and vegetables, but it has only recently been applied to coffee. For coffee to be certified as organic, it must be grown without the use of herbicides or pesticides, and only certified organic-based fertilizers. To qualify, a farm must have carried out organic practices for three to five years, depending on the certifier. Nor may the farm be contaminated by the practices of its immediate neighbors.

It is costly to acquire organic certification, especially nowadays. Farmers have often misunderstood the organic market as a ticket out of poverty rather than a custodial issue towards the earth, which may or may not reward economically.

Quality has often suffered. Periodically, as more farmers fill the demand for organic coffees and the market becomes saturated, prices fall, and the farmer ends up back at the starting gate. Moreover, organic certification does not guarantee that the finished product will make an exceptional brew. However, consumers of certified organic coffee can have the peace of mind,

if it’s important to them, that their coffee is as natural as can be.

I am seeing more and more coffees certified as “fair trade,” but few people seem to know the political context.

Agriculture workers in the coffee industry often toil in what can only be described as “sweatshops in the fields.” Many small coffee farmers sell their coffee for less than it costs them to produce it, forcing them into a cycle of poverty and debt. Fair Trade certification gives consumers a way to choose coffees that break this cycle, assuring consumers that the coffee thus labeled was purchased under conditions that assured fair treatment to the farmer.

To become Fair Trade certified, a coffee importer must meet stringent international criteria; paying a minimum price per pound (currently $1.26), providing needed credit to farmers, and offering technical assistance such as help in transitioning to organic farming. Fair Trade for coffee farmers means community development, health, education, and environmental stewardship.

Like “certified organic,” fair trade certification does not necessarily guarantee superior coffee. But by making it your coffee of choice, you are doing your part

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to ensure better conditions for the people who grow a product that you enjoy.

Shade-grown coffees had a high consumer profile a few years ago, but I hear less about them today. “Shade coffee” generally describes coffee that is grown in the forest, under a canopy of trees that provide food and shelter for wildlife. These farms provide some of the last remaining refuge for birds and animals that have lost their habitat to the vast destruction of tropical forests. Sun-grown coffee, grown in cultivated open fields, may contribute to erosion, pesticide use and deforestation, while shade-grown coffee is good for the habitat, for working farmers, and for the birds. Traditionally, all coffee was shade grown. In fact, most varieties of coffee are naturally intolerant of direct sunlight and prefer a canopy of sunfiltering shade trees. The trees protect the coffee from direct sun, and they naturally mulch the soil with fallen leaves, which helps retain soil moisture. Nitrogen-fixing shade trees naturally enhance the soil, and they provide habitat for birds.The birds in turn provide natural insect control with their foraging.This is a sustainable method of farming that uses little or no chemical fertilizers, pesticides or herbicides.

As you see, these three types of coffee complement each other in many ways. They are good for the environment, they benefit plantation owners and workers, and they produce a coffee free from pesticides and chemicals.

Whether it produces a coffee that is better in quality or taste is a matter for each consumer to decide.

In any case, it is refreshing to see that caffeine crusaders today have the passion and drive to insist on something better than vacuum-sealed, freeze-dried, or even “coffee crystals” before their morning commute. More and more, consumers value exceptional coffee and are willing to delve into various blends and varieties, learn how coffee is produced and further enhance their coffee knowledge.

Whether it’s important to you to be politically aware about your morning coffee or whether you simply want that “knock your socks off ” coffee experience, you’ll want to insist on the freshest beans, grind them to order, and brew them in the correct method. Only then will you enter “Coffee Nirvana.” F&D www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Fall 2006 37

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people and places profiles

BY MICHAEL L. JONES | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

DOWNTOWN’S RESTAURANT RENAISSANCE What do NBA legend Michael Jordan, Oscar-winning actor Robert DeNiro, Black Entertainment Television founder Robert L. Johnson and Maker’s Mark President Bill Samuels Jr. have in common?

Believe it or not, the answer is downtown Louisville: Each of these celebrities has a connection to one or more new downtown restaurants.

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J

ordan and Johnson are partners in RLJ Development, which owns the Marriott Louisville Downtown on Jefferson Street, home to the Mediterranean restaurant BLU. DeNiro is an investor in several eateries managed by the Myriad Restaurant Group, a New Yorkbased firm that operates Proof on Main in the new 21c Museum Hotel. And Samuels licensed his well-known brand name to the Marker’s Mark Bourbon House & Lounge in the Fourth Street Live entertainment complex.

Why is downtown Louisville attracting such a cast of characters? After years of false starts, the area is showing signs of a residential and commercial rebound that many had been hoping would happen for a generation. Downtown is becoming a hot place to live, with $420 million in condos, apartments and other new and renovated housing under way. During the past year, the Clarksdale public-housing complex just east of downtown was torn down to make

From left, Primo’s Chef Michael Hargrove, owner Bim Deitrich and Chef Tony Sorrell.

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way for an innovative mixed-income community known as Liberty Green, which began leasing in April.

In addition, according to Metro Government, the $39-million renovation of the old Brinly-Hardy Train Shed to house Slugger Field has attracted $150 million in private investment in the surrounding area, including housing, retail businesses, offices and hotels. It was this energy that attracted him to the area, said longtime local restaurateur Bim Deitrich, who opened his popular Italian restaurant Primo on East Market last autumn.

“This is downtown’s moment,” Deitrich said. “The Muhammad Ali Center and 21c hotel have already opened. The Museum Plaza and a downtown arena for the University of Louisville are coming.

These are projects that have ripple effects on other businesses. Little businesses like mine have effects, but not like that.”

Primo celebrated its first anniversary in October. The Italian eatery opened

amid much fanfare, thanks to Deitrich’s restaurant pedigree, which includes the Bristol Bar & Grille, Formally Myra’s, Deitrich’s and Allo Spiedo. Deitrich said the neighborhood’s revitalization was jumpstarted by the success of the art galleries along East Market and Main, which attract the kind of upscale patrons who are also likely to be interested in fine dining. One year after Primo’s opening, Deitrich said, the restaurant is in the vanguard of a downtown dining renaissance.

“Restaurateurs are adventurers; we take risks,” Deitrich said. “In 1977, when Doug Gossmann and I opened the Bristol, the Highlands was not the restaurant mecca it is today.When I opened Deitrich’s there weren’t any other restaurants on Frankfort Avenue. Right now, I’m betting on downtown. One day it will be a 24-hour neighborhood the way I want and the art galleries want it to be. I expect this will be one of the most dynamic neighborhoods in Louisville.”

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PRIMO 445 E. M ARKET S T. (502 ) 583-1808

Chef Tony Sorrell of Primo’s grilled pork chop with foie gras butter disc, baby carrots and fig demiglace.

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The team at Maker’s Mark: From left, General Manager Andre Bradford, Assistant General Manager Marc Dempsey, and Chef Anthony Lusiak.

FOURTH STREET LIVE’S INFLUENCE Another significant factor in the excitement about downtown is Fourth Street Live, the 350,000-square-foot retail and enter tainment complex between Liber ty Street and Muhammad Ali Boulevard. Last year, the Urban Land Institute, a nonprofit education and research institution dedicated to the environmental reuse of land, named the $75 million project one of 11 outstanding developments in Nor th and South America.

The Cordish Company, of Baltimore, manages Fourth Street Live. The project came about as a sorely needed effort to redesign and modernize the old Louisville Galleria. The complex features a variety of restaurants and entertainment venues including Hard Rock Café, Red Star Tavern, TGI Friday’s, Lucky Strike Lanes, Pub Louisville, Howl at the Moon and the Maker’s Mark Bourbon House & Lounge.

Although the Maker’s Mark Distillery lent its name to the lounge, which opened in 2004, there is no business connection.

Rather, the Bourbon House & Lounge is a 42 Fall 2006 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

collaboration between the Cordish Company and East Coast Saloons, a Philadelphia-based company that operates 17 establishments around the country.

Harry Hayman, director of operations for East Coast Saloons, said his company jumped at the chance to be involved with Fourth Street Live once it recognized the growth potential of Louisville in general and Fourth Street Live in particular.

“Louisville is an exciting city,” Hayman said. “I love coming here. It’s getting more metropolitan every day. Another attraction of Fourth Street Live was that we wanted to do a large project with the Cordish Company. What’s more appealing than Maker’s Mark?”

The Maker’s Mark Bourbon House & Lounge is decorated with back-lighted Maker’s Mark bottles with the trademark Maker’s Mark wax dripping from the ceiling. Don’t let the motif fool you; the lounge features a wide selection of Bourbons from Kentucky’s distilleries.

“I want Maker’s Mark to be a tribute or a showcase for Bourbon,” Hayman said.

“People have this misconception that we don’t serve anything but Maker’s Mark, but

that’s not true. If you are a Bourbon lover, you’ll be happy here.”

Another misconception about Maker’s Mark is that it is only a bar. Patrons sometimes express surprise when they discover it is a full-scale restaurant. (The menu was designed by Chef Al Paris of Zanzibar Blue restaurant in Philadelphia.)

“We get a lot of people who come in for the Bourbon … and then the waiters do their job,” said Jeremy Kirchner, sous chef. “The Thai crab cakes and the lobster ravioli are pretty popular. We also sell a lot of Kobe (style) steak. Once they taste the food, they realize that we’re as serious about it as we are the Bourbon.”

Hayman said East Coast Saloons is so pleased with its experience here that the company is considering opening other establishments in Louisville. The company already has a second restaurant—Sully’s Irish Pub—in Fourth Street Live.The two restaurants share a kitchen, but they appeal to different audiences. The Sully’s crowd is generally younger, while Maker’s Mark, says Hayman,“is for the professional who wants to have cocktails and a nice meal. We have private rooms for business meetings and

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Maker’s Mark Chef Anthony Lusiak’s grilled filet of beef with horseradish mashed potatoes and Bourbon-braised leeks.

MAKER’S MARK LOUNGE F OURTH S TREET L IVE 446 S. F OURTH S T. (502 ) 568-9009 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Fall 2006 43

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we have started to host benefits. We are still evolving. Maker’s Mark has to keep evolving to stay successful. I think other people have realized that chic, cool places can make money and they are coming after us. So, we have to be better tomorrow than we are today.”

The goal for Four th Street Live was to attract more commercial business development downtown, and the entertainment hotspot seems to have achieved it. Before the project opened in 2004, Cordish predicted that it would employ about 900 people; in fact, the complex created more than 1,500 jobs during its first year. It has also brought more than $3 million dollars a year in taxes to state and local government.

“Although we are not in Fourth Street Live itself, we feel like we are a part of it,” said David Grace, co-owner of RAW Sushi Lounge.“That’s why we picked this location.”

The RAW Sushi Lounge is located on Four th Street in the old Marmaduke

RAW co-owners David Grace (left) and Tony Noland flank Chef Evan Clark.

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Building, just across Muhammad Ali Boulevard beyond the Seelbach Hotel from Fourth Street Live. Grace said he and his partner,Tony Noland, got the idea for a Bluegrass sushi lounge when they were sitting in Nobu, a Japanese-themed Las Vegas restaurant run by the Myriad Restaurant Group and co-owned by actor Robert DeNiro.

“Most of the places in Fourth Street Live look like they were modeled after English pubs,” Grace said. “We wanted the exact opposite. RAW has a chill environment. We have guests who come in for happy hour and get stuck for the rest of the night.”

The partners hired Mindsalt, a design firm, to take care of the restaurant’s design and public relations. RAW’s design is eyepopping and intimate, starting out front with the 2,000-pound concrete and steel signature sign. The theme of raw materials continues inside where artist Tom Boehm created faux rust for the interior columns

and I-beams. The 50-foot bar is also made of steel and concrete and has an elevated sushi station in the center where sushi chef Mia Choi works her magic.The front of the house has several semi-private lounge areas designed for small groups enjoying after-work cocktails.

“RAW is more an attitude than a comment on the sushi,” Grace said.

“That is why we have the raw elements like concrete and steel. When you walk in, you know it is going to be a unique experience.”

Grace and Noland are both veterans of the hospitality business. Noland is a Louisville native who has held positions in variety of local establishments. Grace came from Cleveland to work as a manager at Jillian’s. The two ran a sports bar together for a while, but it was the idea of a sushi bar—and being downtown—that really excited them.

“We knew we had a great concept,” Noland said. “Sushi is gaining popularity as

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RAW SUSHI LOUNGE 52 0 S. F OURTH S T. (502 ) 585-5880

RAW Chef Evan Clark’s pan-seared scallops, pasta salad with soba noodles, arugula vegetable linguine, fried rice noodles, sweet chile ponzu sauce and ginger miso vinaigrette.

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people get more health-conscious. We thought Louisville needed the kind of bigcity lounge you would find in New York or Los Angeles. We did a lot of research before we opened. We went to places like Las Vegas and Miami to see how they do it.”

RAW offers enter tainment three nights a week, featuring deejays or jazz bands, a definite cool factor that appeals to visiting celebrities. During the October IdeaFest in Louisville, for instance, underground multimedia ar tist DJ Spooky dropped in for an after-show party.

Noland said the combination of sushi and music is helping RAW develop a core group of regulars that includes food aficionados and music fans. “With some effort, that will grow and grow,” he said.

“One of the reasons we are here is the expectation of what will happen downtown. Three or four years from now, Fourth Street Live will run from Liberty down to the Brown Hotel, and we’ll be in the heart of it.”

TOURISM DRIVING INTEREST

BLU’s Chef Allan Rosenberg

Of course, Fourth Street Live is not the only factor driving the downtown restaurant renaissance. According to the Louisville Tourism and Convention Bureau, tourism is the third-largest service industry in Jefferson County. So, it should come as no surprise that two of the city’s exciting new restaurants, Proof on Main and BLU, are located in hotels.

BLU is in the Marriott Louisville Downtown, a state-of-the-ar t hotel with 617 rooms, which also houses the Champions Spor ts Bar. In June, the hotel was sold to RLJ Development, which brought in Chef de Cuisine Allan Rosenberg.

Rosenberg said the biggest challenge in his job is convincing local diners that BLU is a great restaurant that happens to be in a hotel, not just a hotel restaurant. “We want to be known as a restaurant where you go for a great meal and not just a quick-bite restaurant,” Rosenberg said. “Mediterranean to me means South of France, Italian and Spanish cuisine, not Middle Eastern or Greek. We have a new menu, and I think it will really put my vision for the restaurant across to local diners.”

Rosenberg, 29, a Louisville native, says he once thought that he had to be in a big city like New York or Los Angeles to work

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BLU ITALIAN MEDITERRANEAN GRILLE L OUISVILLE M ARRIOTT D OWNTOWN 2 80 W. J EFFERSON S T. (502 ) 62 7-5045

BLU’s Chef Allan Rosenberg’s beef carpaccio with arugula salsa verde, unfiltered olive oil, aged Parmesan cheese and balsamic vinegar.

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at a great restaurant. After graduating from Jeffersontown High School, Rosenberg moved to the Big Apple to learn the culinary arts. He learned to cook under noted Chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten.

Rosenberg returned to Louisville when the people he worked for in New York invested in the Main Street Lounge.

After they sold Main Street Lounge, he did a stint at Park Place on Main before becoming a minority owner in Danielle’s.

“After I got married I decided to move on,” Rosenberg said. “That’s how I ended up at BLU. Louisville is a great restaurant town.With all of the new places opening, it is becoming more diverse. That makes what we’re doing at BLU more

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challenging. We are projecting it to the next level of dining. It will be high-end cuisine at affordable prices.”

Besides the main dining room, BLU also has a lounge where patrons can enjoy martinis while they listen to live music.The combination of the restaurant and lounge is a much greater treat than one would expect to experience in a hotel. Rosenberg is following a trail already blazed by the Seelbach’s Oakroom and the Brown’s English Grill, both hotel restaurants that have become dining destinations in their own right.

Chef Michael Paley is trying to pull the same trick at Proof on Main, located in the 21c Museum Hotel, a 91-room hotel

that incorporates a 9,000-square-foot contemporar y ar t museum. “This is probably one of the most unique projects in the country,” Paley said. “It is really important for the food to stand out on its own.”

Louisville investors and contemporary art collectors Steve Wilson and Laura Lee Brown developed the concept for 21c.The Myriad Restaurant Group, which operates 10 other restaurants across the country, manages the establishment.

The fact that Myriad is involved in a Louisville project at all shows how much the city’s profile has changed over the last decade. Myriad, which was founded by Drew Nieporent in 1993, had been

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PROOF ON MAIN 21 C H OTEL & M USEUM 702 W. M AIN S T. (502 ) 2 17-6360

Proof Chef Michael Paley’s charred beef skirt steak with roasted sweet potato treviso salad, salsify and Parmigiano.

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approached in the past about doing something in Louisville, but Nieporent declined because there were no direct flights between New York City and here.

But the expansion at Louisville International Airport, which included direct flights to Newark Liberty Airport in the NYC metro area, made it possible for Myriad to take on 21c.

“I’m a Bourbon lover, and my mother is from Southern Indiana, so I’m very comfortable in this part of the world,” Nieporent told Business First when Proof on Main opened earlier this year. “Plus, Main Street reminds us of TriBeCa, which made us feel at home. After TriBeCa and Soho (in New York City), this is the greatest concentration of cast-iron buildings in the country.”

Paley, a longtime Myriad employee, said the challenge for him was creating a menu that matched the luxurious surroundings. He decided to marry his Northeastern influences with Southern ingredients.Thus, you have menu items that use local favorites like country ham.

“It is all a learning process,” Paley said.

“It’s about getting to know your market.”

BANKING ON THE FUTURE Still, much of the excitement around downtown is based as much on the area’s potential as its present reality.

Restaurateurs are banking on people filling up the condos and apartments now under construction. Part of being a pioneer is getting the timing right, said Primo owner Deitrich.

“Downtown has a great deal of buzz, but the residential development is a bit delayed,” he said. “It’s going to be a lot different in 12 months. If these (new residents) support their neighborhood restaurants, which they should, this is going to be a great place to be. Of course, as a businessman, I want it to happen sooner than later.”

Deitrich, 57, has operated eight restaurants in Louisville, a 30-year trajectory that might not have seemed likely for a man who spent most of his childhood roaming from town to town. Deitrich was born in Iowa, but didn’t stay there long: Both his parents worked in the hotel industry, so the family relocated often. He attended five different high schools.

50 Fall 2006 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

“I didn’t even live in a house until I was 15,” he recalled. “The reason I enjoyed college so much is that they invited me back every year. I turned down a scholarship to Cornell because it was in hospitality. I went to Washington and Lee to study European history and I ended up in the restaurant business anyway. I love Europe. Traveling in Europe is what I love most. I guess it is all tied together because one thing that interests me is the social history of food.

“I call Louisville my home because my children were born here,” he added. “This is the only place they have lived.”

Deitrich first visited Louisville in 1971 to attend the Kentucky Oaks. He kept returning because he liked the city’s vibe.

He went into business with his friend Doug Gossman, another Washington and Lee alum. They founded three restaurants together : the Bristol, the Savoy and Langtry’s.

Primo both reflect and extends Deitrich’s restaurant career. It even has the wood-burning oven brought over from Allo Spiedo. “You never throw away everything,” he said. “Although you might want to.”

Most of Dietrich’s other ventures were located in the Highlands and Crescent Hill neighborhoods. Primo brings him downtown with its location in the Cobalt Marketplace, formerly the Schiller’s Hardware Building, on East Market. Environment plays a part in the personality of a restaurant. Primo has an urban, cosmopolitan feel that stands out in the downtown landscape. The red neon outdoor sign, crafted from customblown glass, beckons like an oasis. Inside, large art deco posters feature Italian aperitifs.

“I’ve always been into the design and architecture of my restaurants,” Deitrich said. “Renovation is the part I love, especially with a great space.”

Harry Hayman of East Coast Saloons said the passion for restaurants and food that people like Deitrich display is a big part of the vibe that attracted his company to Louisville. “In the end it’s all about good food and a good time,” Hayman said.

“That’s why we’re all in this business in the first place. Louisville is definitely a city with some positive momentum. We’re happy to be a part of it.” F&D

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recipes louisville’s restaurant favorites

Yang Kee Noodle’s

BY ROBIN GARR | PHOTOS BY DAN DRY

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irecrackers! Popping, banging, shooting off sparks! What better name could there be than “Firecracker” for a hotand-spicy dish? It’s no surprise that many of the most popular fiery Asian dishes carry pyrotechnical monikers, since the Chinese invented gunpowder, rockets and maybe spicy food, too.

At Yang Kee Noodle in Oxmoor Center, Chef John Castro says the most popular dish on the menu by far is his Firecracker Chicken—a hearty concoction made with so much hot Korean bean paste that the dish is colored a natural bright red.

“It’s very red, but it’s not an artificial red,” says Castro. “A lot of recipes have artificial color added, but I don’t do that.”

What is it that kicks Firecracker Chicken to the top of Yang Kee Noodle’s popularity list? Castro mused: “Partly the name … and it’s kind of an exciting thing to look at.” But mostly, he says, it’s the depth of flavor. The recipe is not just about heat, although there’s plenty of that. It’s the varied, unexpected flavor mix that the other ingredients bring to the party, from broccoli and onions to water chestnuts and—get ready for it—toasted walnuts, that make this dish extraordinary.

It’s originally an ethnic Chinese dish from the People’s Republic of China, called La Ming Jahn. Castro learned it from an elderly chef who had escaped from Mainland China to Taiwan, where Castro worked as a corporate chef years ago.

Castro calls that period a formative experience, and says he learned to love— and to respect—Chinese cooking there. “I consider it the oldest cuisine in the world,” he said. “So they’ve got to be doing something right.”

He’s been making Firecracker Chicken for 15 years and has played with the recipe a lot, trying endless variations. When he designed the version used at Yang Kee Noodle, he said, he came up with the idea of adding walnuts. “It was kind of risky,” he said, “that bitter note of walnut skin against the hot flavors. But the combination worked.

People love it.”

Indeed they do. Here’s the actual Yang Kee Noodle recipe, just as it’s made in the restaurant but cut down to a reasonable portion to serve four. Castro strongly recommends against substituting ingredients, pointing out that everything on the list is available in Louisville nowadays, at many Asian markets around the metro such as Da Hua, a supermarket-size shop at 7100 Preston Highway.

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Yang Kee Noodle’s Firecracker Chicken (SERVES 4) 1 lb. fresh lo mein or dried egg noodles 1 cup walnut halves 2 tablespoons soy sauce 1 /4 cup white sugar 1 /2 cup Korean red bean chili paste (Wei Chuan is one popular brand) 2 teaspoons dry Sherry or Chinese cooking Sherry 2 teaspoons sesame oil 2 tablespoons rice vinegar 1 /2 cup grapeseed or safflower oil 1 cup Chinese rice vermicelli noodles 1 lb. boneless chicken breast, sliced thin 4 cups broccoli florets 11/3 cups onions, diced 11/3 cups water chestnuts, diced 1 cup chicken broth 1. Cook lo mein egg noodles according to package instructions. Strain noodles and set aside.Toast the walnuts on a dry skillet or on a cookie sheet in a hot oven until they are aromatic, but take care that they don’t burn. Set aside.

2. Place soy sauce, sugar, chili paste, Sherry, sesame oil and rice vinegar in a saucepan and bring to a simmer over low heat.

Simmer for five minutes, stirring often.Turn off heat and reserve this sauce.

3. Heat the grapeseed or safflower oil to 425 degrees in a deep fryer or large stockpot. (It’s okay to substitute peanut oil if you wish, although it will change the flavor from the Yang Kee Noodle version.

Do not use olive oil or canola oil, which will impart non-Asian flavors.) Break the rice vermicelli into pieces and drop them into the hot oil. They will instantly expand and puff up. Remove immediately, and drain on paper towels.

4. Reheat the oil in a wok or large skillet.

When it’s sizzling, add the sliced chicken breast pieces and stir-fry until the chicken is opaque and just beginning to brown.

Add the broccoli, onions and water chestnuts and stir. Add the chicken broth and simmer until the vegetables are cooked. Add the reserved soy sauce mixture and the reserved lo mein egg noodles, stirring well, until all ingredients are hot. Garnish with the reserved fried rice vermicelli and toasted walnuts, and serve. F&D www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Fall 2006 53

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ALPHABETICAL INDEX

dining guide

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ALL RESTAURANTS LISTED ALPHABETICALLY, FOLLOWED BY THE PAGE NUMBER OF ITS REVIEW, IT’S CUISINE STYLE, AND THE CORRESPONDING MAP NUMBER(S). [ ] DENOTES UNMAPPED MULTIPLE LOCATIONS.

RESTAURANT

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AFRICAN 73 ASIAN/CHINESE 74 ASIAN/FILIPINO 76 ASIAN/JAPANESE 76 ASIAN/KOREAN 76 ASIAN/THAI 77 ASIAN/VIETNAMESE 77 BAR & GRILL 72 BARBECUE 71 BISTRO/CONTEMPORARY 61 CAFÉS 6 2 CAFETERIAS 67 CAJUN/CREOLE 79 CARIBBEAN/CUBAN 79 CASUAL DINING 65 COFFEE HOUSE 81 DESSERTS/BAKERY 81 ENTERTAINMENT DINING 68 EUROPEAN/BOSNIAN 77 EUROPEAN/GERMAN 77 EUROPEAN/IRISH 77 EUROPEAN/ITALIAN 78 EUROPEAN/SPANISH 79 FINE DINING 58 HOME STYLE/SOUTHERN 67 INDIAN 79 MEXICAN 79 MICROBREWERIES 73 MIDDLE EASTERN 79 PIZZA 68 SANDWICH/DELI 70 SEAFOOD 63 SOUTHWEST/TEX MEX 80 STEAKHOUSE 64 UPSCALE CASUAL 59 54 Fall 2006 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

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MAP #

#1 Asian Buffet 74 Asian/Chinese 2 19th Green Pub & Grill 72 Bar & Grill 16 211 Clover Lane 58 Fine Dining 3 610 Magnolia 58 Fine Dining 1 A Little Peach Café 2 62 Cafés A Nice Restaurant 65 Casual Dining 14, 16 A Taste of China 74 Asian/Chinese 1 Al Watan 79 Middle Eastern 4 Alameda 80 Southwest/Tex Mex 2 Amazing Grace Deli 70 Sandwich/Deli 2 American Pizza 68 Pizza 11 Amici´ 78 European/Italian 1 Angelina’s Café 78 European/Italian 5 Angilo’s Pizza 68 Pizza 13 Angio’s Restaurant 68 Pizza 4 Ann’s by the River 67 Cafeterias 16 Annie Café 77 Asian/Vietnamese 12 Annie’s Pizza 69 Pizza 1, 13 Another Place 70 Sandwich/Deli 1 Anytimes 65 Casual Dining 7 Applebee’s 65 Casual Dining [9] Appleby’s Café & Wine Cellar 62 Cafés 16 Arirang 76 Asian/Korean 9 Arni’s Pizza 68 Pizza 14 Aroma Café 62 Cafés 14 Artemisia 59 Upscale Casual 1 Asian Buffet 74 Asian/Chinese 4, 14, 15 Asiatique 59 Upscale Casual 2 Atomic Saucer 81 Coffee House 1 Atrium Café 61 Bistro/Contemporary 5 August Moon 74 Asian/Chinese 2 Austin’s 59 Upscale Casual 7 Avalon 59 Upscale Casual 2 Aver’s Gourmet Pizza 69 Pizza 6 Azalea 59 Upscale Casual 7 Babby’s Steakhouse 64 Steakhouse 16 Backyard Burger 70 Sandwich/Deli 6 Bahama Breeze 79 Caribbean/Cuban 3 Bake’s Barbeque 71 Barbecue 13 The Bakery 81 Desserts/Bakery 4 Bamboo House 74 Asian/Chinese 12 Bank Shot Billiards 70 Sandwich/Deli 1 Barbara Lee’s Kitchen 67 Home Style/Southern 2 Baxter Station 61 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Bazos Mexican Grill 79 Mexican 3 Bean Street Café 81 Coffee House 14 Bearno’s Pizza 69 Pizza [12] Beef O’Brady’s 72 Bar & Grill 8, 9, 12, 14 Behar Café 77 European/Bosnian 12 Bendoya Sushi Bar 75 Asian/Japanese 1 Benedict’s Garden Café 62 Cafés 2 Bentley’s 65 Casual Dining 1 Big Dave’s Outpost 72 Bar & Grill 2 Big Hopp’s 65 Casual Dining 1 Big Mama’s Soul Kitchen 67 Home Style/Southern 1 Bistro 301 61 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Bistro New Albany 61 Bistro/Contemporary 14 Blimpie’s Subs 70 Sandwich/Deli 2, 4 BLU Mediterranean Grille 59 Upscale Casual 1 Blue Dog Bakery 62 Cafés 2 Blue Mule Sports Café 72 Bar & Grill 6 Bluegrass Bistro 61 Bistro/Contemporary 4 Bluegrass Brewing Co. 73 Microbreweries 1, 3 Bluegrass Café 62 Cafés 4 Bonefish Grill 63 Seafood 5 Bootleg Barbecue Co. 71 Barbecue 11, 12 Bosna-Mak 77 European/Bosnian 4 Bourbon Bros. BBQ 71 Barbecue 2, 16 Bourbons Bistro 61 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Brandon’s Bar-B-Que 72 Barbecue 8 Bravo!

59 Upscale Casual 3 Breadworks 81 Desserts/Bakery 2, 7, 9 Brendans 77 European/Irish 3 Bristol Bar & Grille 59 Upscale Casual 1, 2, 5, 10 Brix Wine Bar 61 European/Contemporary 8 Brownie’s Grille & Bar 72 Bar & Grill 5 Browning’s Brewery 73 Microbreweries 1 Brownsboro Eatery 61 European/Contemporary 7 Bruno’s Pizzeria 69 Pizza 14 Buca Di Beppo 78 European/Italian 6 Buck’s 58 Fine Dining 1 Buckhead Mountain Grill 65 Casual Dining 4, 5, 12, 16 Buffalo Crossing 68 Entertainment Dining 6 Buffalo Madison Coffee Co. 81 Coffee House 1, 15 Buffalo Wild Wings 72 Bar & Grill 2,3, 6, 8, 9, 13

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Bulldog Café 63 Burko’s New York 78 The Butterfly Garden Café 63 C.A.P.P.P.’s Deli 70 Café 360 79 The Café at the Antique Mall 63 Café Emilie 59 Café Fraiche 63 Café J 63 Café Kilimanjaro 73 Café Lou Lou 61 Café Magnolia 65 Café Metro 58 Café Mimosa 77 Caffe Classico 81 Cajun Kitchen 79 California Pizza Kitchen 65 Camille’s Sidewalk Café 63 Cancun Mexican Restaurant 79 Captain’s Quarters 65 Cardinal Hall of Fame Café 65 Carolina Shrimp & Seafood 63 Carolyn’s 67 Carrabba’s Italian Grille 78 Champions Grill 65 Champion’s Sports Rest. 72 Chatter’s Bar & Grill 72 Check’s Café 67 Cheddar Box Café 63 Cheddar’s Casual Café 65 Cheesecake Factory 59 Chez Seneba African 73 Chicago Grill & Subs 70 Chicago Gyro 70 Chick Inn 65 The Chicken House 67 Chicken King 67 Chili’s 65 China 1 74 China Buffet 74 China Garden 74 China Inn 74 China King 74 China Sea Buffet 74 Chinatown 74 Chinese Chef 74 Chinese Express 74 Chinese Restaurant 74 Chong Garden 74 Chopsticks 74 Chopsticks House 74 Chris’ Place 65 Chung King 74 Ciano’s 70 Cici’s 69 City Café 63 City Wok 74 Clark Boy Bar-B-Que 72 Clarksville Seafood 63 Cleo’s Coffee 81 Clifton’s Pizza 69 Club Grotto 59 Coach Lamp 59 Coco’s Bakery 81 Coffee Crossing 81 Coffee Pot Café 81 Coffee Treat Café 81 Come Back Inn 78 Corner Café 59 Cottage Café 67 Cottage Inn 67 Coys’ 65 Cravings a la Carte 68 Cribstone Pub 72 Crystal Chinese 74 Cumberland Brews 73 Cunningham’s 65 Cutting Board Café 62 Cyclers Café 63 Danielle’s 58 Danish Express 70 Dannny Mac’s Pasta & Pizza 69 Day’s Espresso 81 DBL Shotz 81 De La Torre’s 79 Del Frisco’s 64 Delta Restaurant 72 Derby Café 63 Derby Dinner Playhouse 68 Desserts By Helen 81 Devino’s 70 Diamante 61 Diamond Pub & Billiards 72 Diefenbach Café 63 Dillon’s Steakhouse 64

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Cafés 12 European/Italian 16 Cafés 2 Sandwich/Deli 3 Middle Eastern 2 Cafés 1 Upscale Casual 3 Cafés 7 Cafés 3 African 1 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Casual Dining 1 Fine Dining 2 Asian/Vietnamese 2 Coffee House 2 Cajun/Creole 12 Casual Dining 5 Cafés 6 Mexican 4 Casual Dining 10 Casual Dining 12 Seafood 3 Home Style/Southern 13 European/Italian 5 Casual Dining 16 Bar & Grill 1 Bar & Grill 6 Home Style/Southern 1 Cafés 3, 9 Casual Dining 8, 15 Upscale Casual 3 African 12 Sandwich/Deli 16 Sandwich/Deli 2 Casual Dining 10 Home Style/Southern 14 Home Style/Southern 1 Casual Dining 4, 5, 12 Asian/Chinese 3 Asian/Chinese 15 Asian/Chinese 12 Asian/Chinese 1 Asian/Chinese 6, 14 Asian/Chinese 9 Asian/Chinese 3, 12 Asian/Chinese 1 Asian/Chinese 13 Asian/Chinese 12 Asian/Chinese 13 Asian/Chinese 1 Asian/Chinese 1 Casual Dining 6 Asian/Chinese 1 Sandwich/Deli 9 Pizza 4, 14 Cafés 1, 2 Asian/Chinese 1 Barbecue 13 Seafood 15 Coffee House 14 Pizza 2 Upscale Casual 2 Upscale Casual 1 Desserts/Bakery 12 Coffee House 9, 14 Coffee House 1 Coffee House 1 European/Italian 1, 16 Upscale Casual 5 Home Style/Southern 9 Home Style/Southern 1 Casual Dining 12 Cafeterias 1 Bar & Grill 2 Asian/Chinese 1 Microbreweries 2 Casual Dining 1, 7 Cafés 8 Cafés 2 Upscale/Casual 2 Sandwich/Deli 3 Pizza 2 Coffee House 2 Coffee House 16 European/Spanish 2 Steakhouse 3 Bar & Grill 1 Cafés 12 Entertainment Dining 16 Desserts/Bakery 2, 10 Sandwich/Deli 1 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Bar & Grill 3 Cafés 15 Steakhouse 6

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Dinner Is Done 67 Dino’s Down to Lunch 70 Ditto’s Grill 61 Dizzy Whizz Drive-In 70 Djuli 77 Dmitri’s Deli 69 D’Nalley’s Restaurant 67 Domino’s Pizza 69 Don Pablos 79 Dooley’s Bagels 70 Double Dragon 74 Double Dragon II 74 Double Dragon 8 74 Double Dragon 9 74 Double Dragon Buffet 74 Dragon Garden 74 Duke’s Grille & Bar 65 Dutch’s Tavern 72 Dynasty Buffet 74 Eastern House 74 Edoya Japanese Restaurant 76 Eggroll Machine 74 El Caporal 79 El Mundo 79 El Nopal 79 El Nopalito 79 El Paso 80 El Rey Mexican 80 El Rodeo Mexican 80 El Tarasco 80 El Toro Resaurante Mexicano 80 Emperor of China 74 Empress of China 74 The English Grill 58 Equus 58 Erika’s German Rest.

77 Ermin’s Bakery & Café 63 Ernesto’s 80 Euro Market 70 Eva Mae’s 65 Expressions of You 81 Famous Dave’s Bar-B-Que 72 Fast Break Pizza 69 Fat Jimmy’s 69 Fat Tony’s Pizza 69 Federal Hill 63 Feed Bag Deli 70 Ferd Grisanti 78 Fiesta Time Mexican Grill 80 Fifth Quarter 64 Finley’s BBQ 72 Fire Fresh Bar B Q 72 First Wok 74 The Fish House 64 The Fishery 64 The Fishery Station 64 Flabby’s Schnitzelburg 72 The Flagship 58 Flanigans Ale House 72 Fork in the Road 67 Fountain Room 66 Four King’s Café 72 Fox & Hound 72 Frank’s Steak House 64 Frascelli’s N.Y. Deli 70 Fratello’s Pizza 69 Fresco Southwest Grill & Pizza 69 Frolio’s Pizza 69 Frontier Diner 67 Fuji Steakhouse 76 Garden Room Café 63 Gasthaus 77 Gavi’s Restaurant 65 Genny’s Diner 67 Germantown Café 63 Gerstle’s Place 72 Golden Buddha 74 Golden Corral 67 Golden Palace 74 Golden Wall 75 Goose Creek Diner 67 Granville Inn 72 Grape Leaf 79 Grapevine Pantry 63 Great American Grill 73 Great Wall 75 Great Wok 75 Groove Café 63 Gumbo A Go-Go 79 Habaneros 80 Hall’s Cafeteria 68 Happy Dragon 75 Hard Rock Café 62 Harper’s Restaurant 62 Havana Rumba 79

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MAP #

Home Style/Southern 6 Sandwich/Deli 1 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Sandwich/Deli 1 European/Bosnian 12 Sandwich/Deli 1 Home Style/Southern 1 Pizza [20] Mexican 15 Sandwich/Deli 3, 5, 7, 9, 14 Asian/Chinese 2,3 Asian/Chinese 5, 8, 11, 12 Asian/Chinese 1 Asian/Chinese 6 Asian/Chinese 5 Asian/Chinese 2 Bar & Grill 7 Bar & Grill 3 Asian/Chinese 7 Asian/Chinese 13 Asian/Japanese 9 Asian/Chinese 2 Mexican 4,6,12,15 Mexican 2 Mexican 6, 8, 12 Mexican 2, 4, 11 Mexican 16 Mexican 4 Mexican 13 Mexican 3, 5, 7, 12 Mexican 6 Asian/Chinese 7 Asian/Chinese 4 Fine Dining 1 Fine Dining 3 European/German 6 Cafés 1, 10, 14 Mexican 3, 5, 6, 12 Sandwich/Deli 8 Casual Dining 16 Coffee House 7 Barbecue 6, 15 Pizza 8 Pizza 1, 2, 5, 9 Pizza 6 Cafés 14 Sandwich/Deli 3 European/Italian 6 Mexican 8 Steakhouse 12 Barbecue 1 Barbecue 1, 4, 5, 9, 11, 13 Asian/Chinese 13 Seafood 2 Seafood 3 Seafood 11 Bar & Grill 1 Fine Dining 1 Bar & Grill 2 Home Style/Southern 13 Casual Dining 1 Bar & Grill 4 Bar & Grill 3 Steakhouse 16 Sandwich/Deli 7 Pizza 16 Pizza 1 Pizza 12 Home Style/Southern 13 Asian/Japanese 8 Cafés 1 European/German 7 Casual Dining 1 Home Style/Southern 2 Cafés 1 Bar & Grill 3 Asian/Chinese 12 Home Style/Southern 4,12,15 Asian/Chinese 13 Asian/Chinese 12 Home Style/Southern 8 Bar & Grill 1 Middle Eastern 2 Cafés 9 Bar & Grill 12 Asian/Chinese 2 Asian/Chinese 1 Cafés 15 Cajun/Creole 2, 6 Mexican 15 Cafeterias 2 Asian/Chinese 1 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Bistro/Contemporary 5 Caribbean/Cuban 3 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Fall 2006 55

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Hazelwood Restaurant 67 Heady’z 70 Heine Brothers Coffee 81 Heitzman Bakery & Deli 81 Herman’s Delicatessen 70 Highland Coffee Co. 81 Hill Street Fish Fry 64 Hippo Wings 65 Hitching Post Inn 73 Hobknobb Roasting Co. 81 Hometown Buffet 67 Hometown Pizza 69 Honeybaked Café 70 Hong Kong Chinese 75 Hong Kong Fast Food 75 Hoops Grill and Sports Bar 73 Hooters 65 Hot Dog Heaven 70 Howl at the Moon 68 Ichiban Samurai 76 Indi’s Restaurant 67 India Palace 79 Intermezzo American Café 59 The Irish Rover 77 Iroquois Pizza 69 Islamorada Fish Co. 64 J. Alexander’s 60 J. Graham’s Café 63 J. Harrods 60 Jack Fry’s 60 Jack’s Lounge 62 Jade Palace 75 Jake’s & Mr. G’s 73 Jane’s Cafeteria 68 Jarfi’s Bistro 60 Jasmine 75 Java Brewing Co. 81 Jay’s Cafeteria 68 Jazz Factory 62 Jeff Ruby’s Steakhouse 64 Jennica’s Café & Wine Bar 63 Jersey Mike’s Subs 70 Jersey’s Café 73 Jerusalem Mediterannean Café 79 Jessie’s Restaurant 67 Jimbo’s BBQ 72 Jimmy and Richie’s 73 Jimmy John’s Sub Shop 70 Jimmy’s on the River 65 Jockamo’s Pizza Pub 69 Joe Huber Restaurant 68 Joe Muggs 81 Joe’s Crab Shack 64 Joe’s O.K. Bayou 79 Joe’s Older Than Dirt 66 John E’s 60 JoJo’s Fish Market 64 Jolly Rogers 66 JP’s Pub & Grub 73 Juanita’s Burger Boy 70 Jucy’s Smokehouse 72 Juke Box 66 Jumbo Buffet 75 Kaelin’s Restaurant 66 Karma Café 66 Kashmir Indian 79 Kayrouz Café 63 Kern’s Korner 66 Kim’s Asian Grille 76 Kimis Asian Bistro 62 King Wok 75 King Buffet 75 Kings Fast Food 67 King’s Fried Chicken 67 Kingfish 64 Kobe Japanese Steak 76 Koreana II 76 KT’s 60 Kunz’s 58 KY Taco 80 L&N Wine Bar and Bistro 62 La Bamba 80 La Bodega 79 La Gallo Rosso Bistro 1325 78 La Herradura 80 La Monarca 80 La Peche II 62 La Perla del Pacifico 80 La Rosita Taqueria 80 La Rouge 62 La Tapatia 80 Le Relais 58 Lee’s Korean 76 Legend’s 66 Lemongrass Café 77

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MAP #

Home Style/Southern 13 Sandwich/Deli 2 Coffee House 2, 3 Desserts/Bakery 5 Sandwich/Deli 3 Coffee House 1, 2 Seafood 1 Casual Dining 1 Bar & Grill 11 Coffee House 14 Home Style/South. 6,8,13,15 Pizza 7, 9, 13 Sandwich/Deli 3, 11, 15 Asian/Chinese 14 Asian/Chinese 12 Bar & Grill 8, 12 Casual Dining 3,12,13,15,16 Sandwich/Deli 7 Entertainment Dining 1 Asian/Japanese 6 Home Style/Southern 1,3,12 Indian 5 Upscale Casual 1 European/Irish 2, 7 Pizza 13 Casual Dining 15 Upscale Casual 3 Cafés 1 Upscale Casual 3 Upscale Casual 2 Bistro/Contemporary 3 Asian/Chinese 7 Bar & Grill 5 Cafeterias 4 Upscale Casual 1 Asian/Chinese 9 Coffee House 1, 2, 9, 10 Cafeterias 1 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Steakhouse 1 Cafés 1 Sandwich/Deli 5, 6, 8 Bar & Grill 15 Middle Eastern 1 Home Style/Southern 13 Barbecue 12 Bar & Grill 5 Sandwich/Deli 3 Casual Dining 16 Pizza 1 Entertainment Dining 14 Coffee House 3, 8 Seafood 1 Cajun/Creole 6, 14 Casual Dining 5 Upscale Casual 4 Seafood 4 Casual Dining 16 Bar & Grill 11 Sandwich/Deli 1 Barbecue 5 Casual Dining 14 Asian/Chinese 6 Casual Dining 2 Casual Dining 2 Indian 2 Cafés 3 Casual Dining 2 Asian/Korean 1 Asian/Japanese 6 Asian/Chinese 3 Asian/Chinese 6 Home Style/Southern 13 Home Style/Southern 1 Seafood 6, 7, 16 Asian/Japanese 16 Asian/Korean 12 Upscale Casual 2 Fine Dining 1 Mexican 11 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Mexican 2 European/Spanish 2 European/Italian 2 Mexican 15 Mexican 11 Bistro/Contemporary 7 Mexican 8 Mexican 14 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Mexican 2 Fine Dining 4 Asian/Korean 12 Casual Dining 14 Asian/Vietnamese 2, 3, 9

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Liang’s Café The Lighthouse Lilly’s Limestone Ling Ling Little Caesar’s Pizza Little Chef Liu’s Garden Logan’s Roadhouse Logos Coffee House Lolitas Tacos Inc. Lone Star Steakhouse Longhorn Steakhouse Longino’s Lonnie’s Taste Chicago Los Aztecas Los Indios Mexicano Lotsa Pasta Louisville Pizza Co. Lucky House Buffet Lucky Strike Lanes / Felt Luigi’s Lunch Today Lynn’s Paradise Café Ma Zerellas MacVitte’s Mai’s Thai Restaurant Maido Essential Japanese Main Eatery Main Menu Maker’s Mark Lounge Manchu Wok Manhattan Grill Marcus’ Ribs By The Slab Mark’s Feed Store Market on Market Marrakech Martini Italian Bistro Master’s International Masterson’s Max & Erma’s Mazzoni’s Oyster Café McAlister’s Deli Melillo’s The Melting Pot Meridian Café Mexican Fiesta Mexico Tipico Michael Murphy’s Mike Linnig’s Mimi’s Café Mitchell’s Fish Market Moe’s Southwest Grill Molly Malone’s The Monkey Wrench Morris Deli & Catering Morton’s of Chicago Mr. Gattis Mr. Lou’s Mr. Z’s Kitchen My Favorite Muffin My Old KY Dinner Train Nancy’s Bagel Grounds Napa River Grill Neil’s Place Nero’s New Direction Bar & Grill New World Buffet New York Capri Pizza Nios Nord’s Brown Bag Deli North End Café O’Charley’s O’Dolly’s O’Shea’s Irish Pub The Oakroom Old Chicago Pasta & Pizza Old Louisville Coffee House Old Spaghetti Factory Old Stone Inn Ole Hickory Pit BBQ The Olive Garden Olive’s on Fourth Ollie’s Trolley Omar’s Gyro On the Border On The River Dining Onion Rest.Tea House Orders Up Café & Deli Oriental House Oriental Star Osaka Sushi Bar Otto’s Café Outback Steakhouse P. Nuts Sports Bar & Grill

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75 Asian/Chinese 8 73 Bar & Grill 16 58 Fine Dining 2 60 Upscale Casual 5 75 Asian/Chinese 5 69 Pizza 6, 8, 11, 12 70 Sandwich/Deli 14 75 Asian/Chinese 9 64 Steakhouse 3, 13, 15 81 Coffee House 2 80 Mexican 12 64 Steakhouse 5 64 Steakhouse 6, 15 67 Home Style/Southern 13 70 Sandwich/Deli 3 80 Mexican 1, 6, 7, 10 80 Mexican 14 70 Sandwich/Deli 3 69 Pizza 6 75 Asian/Chinese 4 68 Entertainment Dining 1 78 European/Italian 1 70 Sandwich/Deli 16 66 Casual Dining 2 69 Pizza 14, 15 73 Bar & Grill 14 77 Asian/Thai 16 76 Asian/Japanese 2 70 Sandwich/Deli 1 66 Casual Dining 14 60 Upscale Casual 1 75 Asian/Chinese 5 66 Casual Dining 1 72 Barbecue 1 72 Barbecue 2, 9, 13, 15 70 Sandwich/Deli 1 79 Middle Eastern 2 78 European/Italian 8 81 Coffee House 11 66 Casual Dining 1 66 Casual Dining 6, 8 64 Seafood 4 71 Sandwich/Deli 5, 6, 7, 11, 15 78 European/Italian 1 60 Upscale Casual 6 63 Cafés 3 80 Mexican 11 80 Mexican 9, 13 73 Bar & Grill 1 64 Seafood 13 66 Casual Dining 5 64 Seafood 8 80 Southwest/Tex Mex 3, 6, 9, 15 77 European/Irish 2 66 Casual Dining 2 71 Sandwich/Deli 2 64 Steakhouse 1 69 Pizza 1, 4, 5, 12, 13 67 Home Style/Southern 13 63 Cafés 1 81 Desserts/Bakery 4, 5 68 Entertainment Dining 12 71 Sandwich/Deli 2 60 Upscale Casual 3 66 Casual Dining 14 60 Upscale Casual 14 73 Bar & Grill 8 75 Asian/Chinese 8 69 Pizza 15 62 Bistro/Contemporary 2 71 Sandwich/Deli 1 63 Cafés 2 66 Casual Dining 3,6,8,12,13,15 67 Home Style/Southern 13 77 European/Irish 2 58 Fine Dining 1 66 Casual Dining 6 81 Coffee House 1 78 European/Italian 1 60 Upscale Casual 6 72 Barbecue 11 78 European/Italian 6, 15 67 Home Style/Southern 1 71 Sandwich/Deli 1 79 Middle Eastern 2 80 Southwest/Tex Mex 8 66 Casual Dining 7 75 Asian/Chinese 14 71 Sandwich/Deli 9 75 Asian/Chinese 3 75 Asian/Chinese 12 76 Asian/Japanese 2 66 Casual Dining 1 64 Steakhouse 3, 8, 11, 12, 15 73 Bar & Grill 6

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P. F. Chang’s China Bistro 60 Pa Pa Murphy’s Pizza 69 Palapa Mexican Restaurant 80 Palermo Viejo 79 Panda Chinese 75 Panera Bread Co. 71 Papa Johns Pizza 69 Park Place Restaurant 58 Passtime Fish House 64 Pat’s Steak House 64 The Patron 60 Paul’s Fruit Market 71 Penn Station 71 Pepper Shaker Bar-B-Q 72 Perkfection 81 Pesto’s Italian 78 Piccadilly Cafeteria 68 Picnicaters BBQ 72 Pig and a Peppermint 63 Pig City BBQ 72 Pink Door Noodles & Tea Lounge 76 Pit Stop Bar-B-Que 72 Pita Delights 79 Pizza Box 69 Pizza By The Guy 69 Pizza Hut 69 Pizza King 69 Pizza Place 70 Plehn’s Bakery 81 Ponderosa Steakhouse 64 Porcini 78 Portico 58 Prado’s Pizza 70 Primo 78 Proof On Main 58 Prospect Fish Market 64 Pub Louisville 66 Puerto Vallarta 80 Qdoba Mexican Grill 80 Queen of Sheba 73 Queue Café 63 Quick Wok 75 Quizno’s Subs 71 Rafferty’s of Louisville 66 Ramsi’s Café 62 Ranch House 66 Raw Sushi Lounge 76 Ray Parrella’s 78 Red Cheetah Lounge 60 Red Robin Gourmet Burgers 66 Red Star Tavern 60 Rich O’s Public House 73 Rick’s Ferrari Grille 60 Rockwall Bistro 60 Rocky’s Italian Grill 78 Romano’s Macaroni Grill 78 Rosticeria Luna 80 Royal Garden 75 Rubbie’s Bar-B-Que 72 Ruben’s Mexican Restaurant 80 Ruby Tuesday 66 The Rudyard Kipling 66 Rumors Raw Oyster Bar 63 Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse 64 Ryan’s Steakhouse 64 Saddle Ridge Saloon 73 Saffron’s 79 Saffron’s Buffet 79 Safier Mediterranean Deli 79 Saint’s 73 Sakura Blue 76 Sala Thai 77 Salsarita’s Fresh Cantina 81 Sam’s Food & Spirits 66 Santa Fe Grill 80 Sapporo Japanese Grill 76 Sari Sari Exotic Filipino Cuisine 76 Schlotzsky’s Deli 71 Scotty’s Ribs 72 Sesame Chinese 75 Seviche A Latin Restaurant 58 Shady Lane Café 71 Shah’s Mongolian Grill 75 Shalimar Indian 79 Shane’s 66 Shanghai Restaurant 75 Shenanigan’s Irish Grille 77 Shiraz Mediterranean Grill 79 Shogun 76 Shoney’s 66 Sichuan Garden 75 Simply Thai 77 Sister Bean’s 81 Skyline Chili 66 Smokey Bones BBQ 72

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Upscale Casual 5 Pizza 3, 8, 9, 11, 12, 15 Mexican 2 European/Spanish 2 Asian/Chinese 10 Sandwich/Deli 3, 6, 8, 15 Pizza [30] Fine Dining 1 Seafood 6 Steakhouse 2 Upscale Casual 3 Sandwich/Deli 3, 4, 7, 9 Sandwich/Deli [14] Barbecue 12 Coffee House 16 European/Italian 1 Cafeterias 5, 6 Barbecue 1 Cafés 10 Barbecue 9 Asian/Korean 2 Barbecue 1 Middle Eastern 1 Pizza 8 Pizza 5 Pizza [15] Pizza 14, 16 Pizza 4 Desserts/Bakery 3 Steakhouse 7 European/Italian 2 Fine Dining 14 Pizza 9 European/Italian 1 Fine Dining 1 Seafood 10 Casual Dining 1 Mexican 14, 16 Mexican 2, 3, 5, 6, 8, 15 African 4 Cafés 6 Asian/Chinese 1 Sandwich/Deli [17] Casual Dining 3, 8 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Casual Dining 14 Asian/Japanese 1 European/Italian 2 Upscale Casual 1 Casual Dining 8 Upscale Casual 1 Microbreweries 14 Upscale Casual 3 Upscale Casual 14 European/Italian 8, 16 European/Italian 5 Mexican 12 Asian/Chinese 11, 12, 13 Barbecue 12 Mexican 15 Casual Dining 3, 6, 15 Casual Dining 1 Seafood 9 Steakhouse 3 Steakhouse 11, 12, 13, 15 Bar & Grill 1 Middle Eastern 1 Middle Eastern 1 Middle Eastern 1 Bar & Grill 3 Asian/Japanese 3 Asian/Thai 6 Southwest/Tex Mex 3 Casual Dining 14 Mexican 12 Asian/Japanese 2, 9 Asian/Filipino 2 Sandwich/Deli 8, 9, 12 Barbecue 9 Asian/Chinese 5 Fine Dining 2 Sandwich/Deli 7 Asian/Chinese 6 Indian 6 Casual Dining 16 Asian/Chinese 1 European/Irish 2 Coffee House 2 Asian/Japanese 6, 8 Casual Dining 2, 6, 12 Asian/Chinese 6 Asian/Thai 3 Coffee House 13 Casual Dining 1, 2, 3, 6, 13 Barbecue 6

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Snappy Tomato 70 Pizza [7] Sol Aztecas 80 Mexican 2 Soupy’s 71 Sandwich/Deli 4, 6 , 8 , 1 3 South Side Inn 68 Cafeterias 14 Spaghetti Shop 78 European/Italian 11, 14 Spinelli’s Pizzeria 70 Pizza 2 Sports Page Grill 73 Bar & Grill 6 Sportstime Pizza 70 Pizza 14 Stan’s Fish Sandwich 64 Seafood 3 Star Cruises 68 Entertainment Dining 16 Starbucks Coffee 81 Coffee House [27] Starving Artist Café 71 Sandwich/Deli 5 Steak N Shake 66 Casual Dining 4,6,8,12,13,15 Steinert’s Grill & Pub 73 Bar & Grill 14 Stevens & Stevens 71 Sandwich/Deli 2 Steve-O’s Italian Kitchen 78 European/Italian 7 Stoney River 64 Steakhouse 8 Stratto’s 78 European/Italian 15 Strawberry Patch Deli 71 Sandwich/Deli 9 Stumler Rest. & Orchard 68 Entertainment Dining 14 Sub Station II 71 Sandwich/Deli 12 Sully’s Saloon 73 Bar & Grill 1 Sunergos Coffee & Roastery 81 Coffee House 1 Sweet ‘N’ Savory Café 63 Cafés 2 Sweet Peas Southern 62 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Sweet Surrender 81 Desserts/Bakery 2 The Sweet Tooth 81 Desserts/Bakery 3 Tacqueria La Mexicana 80 Mexican 12 Tailgaters Sports Bar 73 Bar & Grill 12 Taste of Jamaica 79 Carribian/Cuban 2 Tequila Mexican Rest.

80 Mexican 12 Teranga African Rest.

73 African 4 Texas Roadhouse 64 Steakhouse 2, 12, 13, 15 TGI Friday’s 66 Casual Dining 1, 6, 7 Thai Café 77 Asian/Thai 7 Thai Siam 77 Asian/Thai 4 Thai Smile 5 77 Asian/Thai 12 Thai Taste 77 Asian/Thai 2 The Back Door 73 Bar & Grill 2 The Bodega 71 Sandwich/Deli 1 Theater Square Deli 71 Sandwich/Deli 1 Third and Main Café 63 Cafés 1 Third Avenue Café 63 Cafés 1 Thyme Café 63 Cafés 1 Tijuana Flats Burrito Co. 81 Southwest/Tex Mex 7, 8 Toast on Market 66 Casual Dining 1 Tokyo Japanese 76 Asian/Japanese 7 Toll Bridge Inn 67 Home Style/Southern 14 Tologono 62 Bistro/Contemporary 3 Tommy Lancaster 66 Casual Dining 14 Tony Boombozz 70 Pizza 2, 3, 8 Tony Impellizeri’s Italian 70 Pizza 5 Tony Roma’s 72 Barbecue 5 Tran’s Japanese Steakhouse76 Asian/Japanese 14 Trellis Restaurant 66 Casual Dining 1 Tucker’s 66 Casual Dining 14 Tumbleweed 81 Southwest/Tex Mex 1,2,4, 6,8,12,13,14,15,16 Twice-Told Café 66 Casual Dining 7 Twig & Leaf Restaurant 66 Casual Dining 2 Uno Chicago Bar & Grill 70 Pizza 11 Uptown Café 60 Upscale Casual 2 Vic’s Café 73 Bar & Grill 1 Vietnam Kitchen 77 Asian/Vietnamese 12 The Villa Buffet 66 Casual Dining 14 Vince Staten’s BBQ 72 Barbecue 10 Vincenzo’s 59 Fine Dining 1 Vito’s Pizzeria 70 Pizza 12 Volare 78 European/Italian 2 W.W. Cousin’s 71 Sandwich/Deli 3 Wagner’s Pharmacy 67 Home Style/Southern 12 Wall Street Deli 71 Sandwich/Deli 1 Webb’s Market 67 Home Style/Southern 1 Westport General Store 66 Casual Dining 7 Whitney’s Diner 63 Cafés 11 Wicks Pizza 70 Pizza 2, 8, 9, 13 Wild Oats Market 71 Sandwich/Deli 3 Willie’s Italian 78 European/Italian 13 Windy City Pizzeria 70 Pizza 1 Wings N Things 73 Bar & Grill 8 Wings To Go 70 Pizza 14 The Wing Zone 66 Casual Dining 12 Winston’s 59 Fine Dining 4 Wok Express 75 Asian/Chinese 1 Wonton Express 75 Asian/Chinese 4 Woodford Reserve Grille 73 Bar & Grill 12 Yaching’s East West Cuisine 60 Upscale Casual 1 Yang Kee Noodle 76 Asian/Chinese 5 Yen Ching 76 Asian/Chinese 6 You-Carryout-A 76 Asian/Chinese 14, 15, 16 Zap’s 71 Sandwich/Deli 1 ZaZoo’s 73 Bar & Grill 3 Zen Garden 77 Asian/Vietnamese 2 Z’s Oyster Bar 59 Fine Dining 5

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GUIDE KEY

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$ = Average Entrée under $8 $$ = Average Entrée $9–$14 $$$ = Average Entrée $15–$20 $$$$ = Average Entrée $21 & up

2 11 CL OVER LANE RES TAURANT 2 11 Clo ver Ln., 896-9570. Owner and manager Andy Smith continues to burnish the upscale atmosphere and creative cuisine of this s tylish spot in St. Matthews. It c onsistently r anks among the city’ s top tables. $$$$ p f 610 MAGNOLIA 610 Magnolia A ve., 636-0783. Chef Edward L ee’s dis tinctive, eclectic tak e on cr eative international cookery places his personal signatur e on e very dish at this elegantly c omfortable Old Louisville restaurant. For more than a quart er of a century it has r emained one of the city’ s fines t places to dine. $$$$ p f BUCK’S 42 5 W . Ormsb y A ve., 6 37-52 84. E clectic Victorian with t ongue-slightly-in-cheek, pleasant and not o verstated, this fine dining r oom in the Mayflower Apartments c ombines a w elcoming attitude with high-quality f are and atmospher e that’s frankly stunning. $$$ p e CAFÉ METRO 1700 Bar dstown Rd., 458-4830 . A local tr adition that helped es tablish Bar dstown Road as one of the city’ s “r estaurant r ows” a generation ago , Café Metr o r emains an upscale landmark and c ontinues t o please Metr o’s lo yal fans. $$$ p ENGLISH GRILL 335 W . Br oadway (T he Br own Hotel), 583-1234. This elegant oak-paneled dining room is the same do wntown landmark that our

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RED = Advertiser

p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

grandparents enjo yed. Chef Joe Cas tro wins applause f or cr eative, in ventive f are that mak es the Brown a major pla yer in the do wntown-hotel dining sweepstakes. $$$$ p EQUUS 122 Sears Ave., 897-9721. Veteran Chef Dean Corbett has quietly built one of the city’ s mos t honored r estaurants in this simple whit e-brick building in St. Matthe ws, Quietly elegant surroundings, splendid servic e and firs t-rate “progressive American cuisine” have won applause from publications like Southern Living. $$$$ p

ALL RESTAURANTS ARE LOCATED IN LOUISVILLE (unless noted otherwise) All phone numbers are local calls. When out of the area, use area code 502 for all listings except Indiana, use 812.

THE OAKROOM 500 S. Fourth St. (Seelbach Hotel), 585-32 00. Chef de Cuisine T odd Richar ds and staff ar e kicking things up y et another not ch at this elegant hot el dining r oom, adding a le vel of innovation while carrying on its long-held f ourstar rating. $$$$ p

THE FLAGSHIP 140 N. Fourth St., 589-5200. $$$$ e

PARK PLACE RESTAURANT 401 E. Main St. (Slugger Field), 515-0172. With Anoosh Shariat as e xecutive chef this signatur e r estaurant in L ouisville Slugger Field c ombines culinary cr eativity and comfort in an upscale v enue that ’s sec ond t o none. $$$$ p f e

KUNZ’S FOURTH AND MARKET 115 S. F ourth St., 585-5555. One of the oldes t r estaurants in Louisville, K unz’s original German ac cent has muted with time , and it no longer r anks among the city’ s t op tables, but it s till pr ovides oldfashioned, hearty steaks and seafood. $$$ p

PORTICO Caesars Indiana Casino, Elizabeth, IN, 888766-2648. High-end luxury and s tyle bring a tas te of Las V egas t o Metr o L ouisville in this pric ey, white-tablecloth eatery located on the gr ounds of Caesars Indiana. You don’t have to be a high r oller to enjoy its luxury fare and service. $$$$ p

LE RELAIS 2 817 T aylorsville Rd. (Bo wman Field), 451-9020. Another longstanding contender for top rank in L ouisville’s r estaurant r ace, this art dec o spot makes s tylish use of a his toric 19 2 0s airport building to present elegant modern French cuisine from Chef Daniel Stage. $$$$ p f e LILLY’S 1147 Bar dstown Rd., 451-044 7. As a r epeat invitee t o Manhattan’ s James Bear d House , Chef Kathy Cary shar es her K entucky-accented cooking skills with the r est of the nation. Lilly’ s c ombines sophisticated s tyle and Cary’ s cr eative c ookery t o keep this landmark r estaurant one of L ouisville’s dining favorites. $$$$ p e

PROOF ON MAIN 702 W. Main St., 2 17 -6360. T his stylish spot in the posh 2 1C Museum Hot el at Seventh & Main has earned a firm plac e in the t op tier of local eat eries. Chef Michael P aley pr eside over a modern American bill of f are with dis tinct Tuscan influences. $$$ p SEVICHE A LA TIN RES TAURANT 1538 Bar dstown Rd., 4 73-8560. Chef Anthon y Lamas has been winning national pr aise f or his cr eative c ookery, frequently appearing in national f ood media and making a r egular tr ek t o James Bear d House in NYC. Se viche, as the name implies, specializ es in

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the Latino seaf ood dish “ cooked” in tart citrus juices. $$$$ p f VINCENZO’S 150 S. Fifth St., 580- 1350. Known f or its suave professional service, high-end Northern Italian fare and many trademark dishes finished at tableside, V incenzo’s c ontinues t o hold its o wn against growing downtown competition. $$$$ p WINSTON’S RES TAURANT 3101 Bar dstown Rd., (Sullivan University Campus), 456-0980. Culinary arts students at Sullivan University staff this finedining r estaurant on the campus, under the guiding hand of Chef John Cas tro. Several of the city’s top chefs got their training here. Open Fri. Sun. Only. Reservations suggested. $$$$ p Z’S O YSTER BAR & S TEAKHOUSE 101 Whittingt on Pkwy., 429-8000. This exciting spot brings a level of fine dining to the suburbs that makes it stand out in the chain-rich en virons outside the W atterson.

Splendid steaks, extraordinary seafood, fine service and clubby ambience give Z’s the tools to dominate in the steakhouse competition. $$$$ p

ARTEMISIA 62 0 E. Mark et St., 583-4 177. As the bustling arts sc ene in this eas t-of-downtown blossoms, Art emisia ev olves with it. A f avorite dinner venue in a gallery setting, Art emisia offers fare t o please both v egetarians and omniv ores, plus an attr active alfr esco dining option in its enclosed courtyard. $$$ p f e ASIATIQUE 1767 Bardstown Rd., 451-2749. Chef Peng Looi has w on diners’ r aves and man y culinary awards during Asiatique’ s long local t enure. His innovative Asian-fusion cuisine has w on him invitations to New York City’s James Bear d house and many local accolades. $$$ p f AUSTIN’S 4950 US 42, 423-1990. Big, crowded and bistro-style, with heavy emphasis on the bar, this

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suburban w atering hole taps the same v ein as the national fr anchise boo ze ’n’ beef genr e, and does so w ell, off ering satisfying dining at a f air price. $$ p AVALON 1314 Bardstown Rd., 454-5336. This stylish spot on Bar dstown R oad off ers a fr esh and creative bill of f are that pr esents American and international cuisine with a dis tinct Southern accent. Extra points for the popular outdoor patio that’s open for a good part of the y ear. $$$ p f AZALEA 3612 Br ownsboro Rd., 895-54 93. Another of the city’ s longtime f avorites, Azalea delights with cr eative American and fusion-s tyle f are whether y ou dine in or enjo y the open air of its shady, brick-walled patio. $$$ p f BLU IT ALIAN MEDITERRANEAN GRILLE 2 80 W .

Jefferson St. (L ouisville Marriott), 62 7-5045. BL U offers upscale Italian Medit erranean cuisine in striking surr oundings highlight ed b y Me xican limestone and Italian marble . F or those seeking a relaxing libation and a quick er snack, the Bar at BLU offers a more casual alternative. $$$ p BRAVO! 2 06 Bullitt Ln. ( Oxmoor C enter), 32 6-04 91.

Management describes the Ohio-based Br avo! chain as “ a fun, whit e-tablecloth casual eat ery … positioned betw een the fine-dining and casual chains.” A R oman-ruin setting houses abundant Italian-American style fare. We particularly enjo yed appetizers and first-rate grilled meats. $$ p f BRISTOL BAR & GRILLE 132 1 Bardstown Rd., 4561702, 300 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 426-0627, 614 W. Main St., 582 - 1995, 6051 T imber Ridge Dr ., 2 9 2 2585, 2035 S. Third St., 634-2723. The Bristol has been a s tar on L ouisville’s bis tro sc ene sinc e it helped kick off the Bar dstown R oad r estaurant renaissance some 25 years ago. Old standards like the gr een-chile w on t ons and the Bris tol Bur ger are always reliable, and the wine pr ogram is exceptional. $$ p f

CAFÉ EMILIE 3939 Shelbyville Rd., 719-9717. Tucked into a c orner of a tas teful furnitur e shop , Café Emilie is w orth a visit. T his French-accented East End eat ery off ers casual f are at lunch and a bit more formal dining in the evening. $$ f CHEESECAKE FACTORY 5000 Shelbyville Rd., 8973933. “Cheesecak e” is its name , and this glitzy shopping-mall eatery offers a wide variety of rich, calorific choic es t o eat in or tak e out. It ’s mor e than just cheesecake, though, with a wide-ranging menu of California, Southwestern and Pacific Rim fare plus full bar servic e. $$ p CLUB GROTTO 2116 Bardstown Rd., 459-5 275. Club Grotto’s stylish and r omantically dim en virons add up to a c omfortable, familiar Highlands spot that ’s worth making a special effort to remember. $$$ p COACH LAMP RESTAURANT 751 Vine St., 583-9165.

This urban neighborhood tavern serves “pub grub” for lunch, but C oach Lamp turns int o a serious dining room Wednesday through Saturday evenings with dishes fr om Chef Jer ome Pope that r ange from down-home favorites to pastas. $$$ CORNER CAFÉ 9307 New Lagrange Rd., 426-8119 .

There’s nothing fancy or overly elegant about this suburban neighborhood old favorite, but the term “eclectic” fits it well. $$ p DANIELLE’S 2 2 06 Fr ankfort A ve., 89 3-7677.

Attracting critical r aves right out of the s tarting gate, this cool and sophisticated Clifton spot, with Chef Josh Hillyard now at the helm, has earned a place in the city’s upper tier of dining destinations with its fresh American cuisine and extensive wine list. $$$ p INTERMEZZO AMERICAN CAFÉ & CABARET 316 W. Main St., 584- 12 65. T he elegant r estaurant space in A ctor’s T heatre of L ouisville’s his toric building features casual American bistro fare in an attractive dining room, plus nightly entertainment in a cabaret style. $$$ p e

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J. ALEXANDER’S RESTAURANT 102 Oxmoor Court, 339-2 2 06. T his c omfortably upscale v enue, a Nashville-based chain, f eatures “ contemporary American” f are with a br oad menu that r anges from burgers and sandwiches to such upscale eats as grilled tuna or a Ne w York strip steak. $$$ p J. HARROD’S 7507 Upper Riv er Rd., 2 2 8-4555. J .

Harrod’s is discr eetly tas teful and pleasantly comfortable. The food is competitive in both quality and value. It’s an appealing, upscale blend of bis tro fare and old-fashioned country cooking. $$$ p JACK FR Y’S 1007 Bar dstown Rd., 45 2 -92 44. If y ou want t o give visiting friends a one-shot sample of Louisville’s urban dining s tyle, ther e’s no bett er destination than Jack Fry’ s. T his popular spot is always pack ed. It sa ves jus t a whiff of the r affish aspect of its 1960s-er a predecessor, a local saloon, but upgr ades it with cr eative American f are in a bistro setting. $$$$ p e JARFI’S BIS TRO 501 W . Main St., 589-5060 . T he affable Jeff Jarfi is the epon ymous hos t of this sharp, stylish venue in the K entucky Center for the Arts. Eclectic cuisine—including sushi!—plus popular lunch and pr e-theater buff ets ar e attracting happy crowds. $$$ p

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JOHN E’S 3708 Bar dstown Rd., 456- 1111. T his old Louisville tradition earns a warm recommendation.

From its c ozy setting in a his toric Buechel home to its do wn-home servic e t o its good Americanstyle fare at reasonable prices. $$$$ p e KT’S 2 300 L exington Rd., 458-8888. It ’s har d t o argue with suc cess, and K T’s has earned its popularity by providing good American-style bar and bistro chow for a price that’s fair. $$ p f LIMESTONE 10001 Forest Green Blvd., 426-7477. To succeed in the r estaurant busines s, k eep doing what y ou do bes t. Chefs Jim Gerhar dt and Michael Cunha ha ve followed this simple f ormula with c onsiderable suc cess at Limes tone, tr ansporting the c oncept that br ought them international culinary k udos at the Seelbach’ s Oakroom with good eff ect in these modern quarters in the East End. $$$ p MAKER’S MARK BOURBON HOUSE & LOUNGE Fourth Str eet Liv e, 568-9009 . Under a lic ensing agreement with the management of Fourth Street Live, K entucky’s Mak er’s Mark Dis tillery lends its name and its signatur e r ed-wax image t o this stylish r estaurant and lounge in the booming downtown entertainment complex. A magis terial

bar f eatures mor e than 60 Bourbons, and the menu offers traditional Kentucky fare. $$$ p f MELTING POT 2045 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-3125.

This Florida-based chain brings back pleasant memories of fondue parties of the ’70s. If you can melt it and dip things in it, the Melting Pot probably has it on the menu. $$$ p NAPA RIVER GRILL 3938 Dupont Circle, 893-0141.

This s tylish St. Matthe ws venue spans Calif ornia and the Pacific Rim, earning its reputation as one of the city’ s leading r estaurants on the basis of Innovative wine-country cuisine, excellent service and a fine California-focused wine collection. $$$ pf NERO’S Caesars Indiana Casino , Elizabeth, IN, 888766-2648. Joining Portic o as the sec ond high-end, fine-dining r estaurant at Caesar ’s Indiana, Ner o’s complements Portic o’s all- American s teak-andseafood theme with a br oader int ernational menu that ranges from Tuscan fettuccini to Memphis BBQ pork ribs. $$$ p OLD S TONE INN 6905 Shelbyville Rd., Simpson ville, KY, (502) 722-8200. Under the management of Paul Crump, f ormerly of Por cini, this his toric s tone building (east of L ouisville in Simpson ville) carries on the r eputation that has made the c omfortably nostalgic r estaurant popular f or mor e than a generation. $$$ p f THE P ATRON 3400 Fr ankfort A ve., 896- 1661.

Viewed from the perspective of an e vening meal, the P atron off ers some of the bes t c ooking in town. Chef Amber McC ool off ers a dinner menu that changes fr equently, based on what ’s available and perhaps the chef’s whim. It’s not just adventurous but civilized. $ P.F. CHANG’S CHINA BIS TRO 912 0 Shelb yville Rd., 32 7-7707. T his Ariz ona-based, Chinese themed restaurant off ers a loud, happ y sc ene with Chinese-style dishes. T o its cr edit, e verything is prepared well and service is consistently fine. $$ p RAW SUSHI L OUNGE 52 0 S. F ourth St., 585-5880 (see listing under Asian/Japanese) RED CHEET AH L OUNGE Fourth Str eet Liv e, 5890695. $$ p e RED S TAR T AVERN Fourth Str eet Liv e, 568-5656.

Billed as “a hip, contemporary version of the classic American ta vern,” this chain oper ation in the rehabilitated former Galleria features steaks, chops and seafood in an atmospher e that’s upscale and clubby, with an e xtensive bar as a k ey part of the action. $$$ p f RICK’S FERRARI GRILLE 3930 Chenoweth Ln., 8930106. Popular local restaurateur Rick Dissell is the amiable host at this St. Matthe ws restaurant that bears his name , and w e don’t mean “F errari.”

Excellent libations and upscale American f are make it a popular des tination. $$ p f e ROCKWALL BISTRO 3426 Paoli Pike, Floyds Knobs, IN., 948-1705. This stylish spot takes full advantage of an old r ock-quarry location in sc enic Flo yds Knobs t o off er an atmospheric eat ery, with a creative menu that f eatures a light L ouisiana accent, and an int eresting, affordable wine list. It’s well worth the trip acr oss the Ohio f or one of the area’s most enjoyable dining experiences. $$ p f UPTOWN CAFÉ 162 4 Bar dstown Rd., 458-42 12 .

Across the s treet and a s tep downscale from its partner, Café Metro, the Uptown Café (now a nonsmoking venue except f or the bar) off ers similar fare with a bit more of a bistro feel for quite a few bucks less. $$ p f YACHING’S EA ST WES T CUISINE 105 S. F ourth St., 585-4005. Yaching’s promises “an eclectic menu of contemporary Asian fusion cuisine.” It’s an attractive mix of Eas t and W est, sufficient t o give jus t about everyone something t o enjo y, r egardless of which compass point attracts your taste buds. $$$ p

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ATRIUM CAFÉ 9940 C orporate Campus Dr .

(Embassy Suit es), 42 6-9191. An eclectic bis tro atmosphere in the heart of the hotel. Specials run from their popular cr ab cakes and arr ay of pas ta dishes to a Reuben sandwich or fruit pie . $$ p BAXTER S TATION BAR & GRILL 12 01 P ayne St., 584-1635. T his c ozy spot looks a lot lik ea neighborhood saloon, but the eclectic menu and unique atmospher e tak e it a not ch upscale , and the weatherized patio is comfortable almost yearround. Take particular not e of an impr essive beer list to go with your meal. $$ p f BISTRO 301 301 W. Market St., 584-833 7. Formerly Dekes, this popular do wntown spot s tarted as a downtown bar, a favorite hangout for lawyers and the Courthouse crowd; renamed after an o wnership change, it has moved upscale and broadened its appeal with fine “ contemporary American cuisine” and service to match. $$$ p f BISTRO NEW ALBANY 148 E. Market St., New Albany, IN, (812 ) 94 9-52 2 7. T his r ecent and w elcome addition to downtown New Albany brings casual upscale gourmet dining t o the city’ s old do wntown, with high quality local meats, pr oduce and microbrewery beers. Extra credit, in season, for its inviting French Quarter-style patio. $$ f e BLUEGRASS BISTRO 3819 Bardstown Rd., 458-6 111.

Chefs Sc ott Schamel, f ormerly of the Br own Hotel, and Anthon y L orie bring a ne w, gourmetstyle menu t o this attr active spot in the Derb y City Antique Mall in Buechel (formerly Derby City Café). Open for lunch daily except Sunday. $ BOURBONS BIS TRO 2 2 55 Fr ankfort A ve., 8948838. Bourbon, K entucky’s tr aditional nectar , owns a plac e of honor in L ouisville eateries and watering holes that sho wcase its pleasur es.

Bourbons Bis tro c ombines a fine bar and comfortably upscale-casual restaurant featuring what mus t be the w orld’s mos t c omprehensive Bourbon list. The bill of fare is well-matched with the excellence of its libations. $$$ p f BRIX WINE BAR 12418 La Gr ange Rd., 2 43-112 0. T he use of an e xceptionally obscur e wine t erm (it ’s pronounced “bricks” and refers to the sugar content of ripe gr apes at harv est) hints that the pr oprietors of this ne w wine bar kno w their f ood. Int eresting wines and a short bis tro-style menu mak e it a welcome suburban addition. $ BROWNSBORO EATERY 7511 Hwy 329, 241-8689. $ CAFÉ LOU LOU 1800 Frankfort Ave., 893-7776. Bright and bold and arts y, this Clift on neighborhood restaurant and pub off ers Chef Cla y W allace’s affordable edibles fr om wr aps and calz ones t o handmade pizzas among the best in town. $$ f THE CUTTING BOARD 2929 Goose Cr eek Rd., 4239950. Having built a loyal clientele with well-made and cr eative casual f are in its original s torefront location, owners Guntars and Ilena Rusmanis no w build on that suc cess with their autumn 2 006 move int o s tylish lar ger quart ers nearb y and an expanded menu. $$ p DIAMANTE 2 2 80 Bar dstown Rd., 456- 1705. T his lovable spot mak es adaptiv e use of a 19 2 0s gasoline s tation c onverted int o a c ozy eat ery, where Chef Mik e Driskell off ers an eclectic bill of fare and tr endy libations. Open v ery lat e, it ’s a haven for night owls. $$ f DITTO’S GRILL 1114 Bardstown Rd., 581-912 9 . With fresh and gener ous portions, I lea ve s tuffed and happy e very time I visit this s tylish y et casual Highlands f avorite. Chef /Co-owner Domonic Serratore—a pioneer of the local dining sc ene— serves up fr esh and gener ous portions fr om a menu that offers an internationally eclectic bill of www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Fall 2006 61

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fare that r anges all o ver the map . Fr om K ansas City ribs and Ne w England cr ab cak es t o T hai chicken wings or Chinese burrit os. $$ p HARD ROCK CAFÉ Fourth Str eet Liv e, 568-2 2 0 2 .

Louisville’s Fourth Street Live opened with a bang amid hammering guitars and happy throngs as the city gained its first branch of this popular shrine t o rock with its giant neon guitar to show you the way.

The music sc ene is the dr aw, but y ou’ll ha ve no complaints about Har d Rock’s standard American cuisine. $$ p f e HARPER’S RESTAURANT 871 S. Hurs tbourne Pkwy., 42 5-2 900. Harper ’s dr aws a happ y cr owd of regulars with a lar ge bar and big menu that off ers a wide r ange of American-s tyle f are, with management that takes quality seriously. Gourmet pizzas and fine libations are a specialty. $$ p f

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you’re going to be excited about L&N. The fruit of the vine takes center stage in a v ast, fairly priced wine lis t and imposing Cruvinet dispenser , with over 100 wines available by the glass. Comfortable exposed-brick atmosphere and excellent bistro fare add to the draw. $$ p f

enjoy in the c omfort of home . I’v e f ound the dishes fully competitive with local bistro fare, and more than competitive in price. $$

LA PECHE II Holiday Manor Shopping C enter, 3397593. If y ou w ant t o enjo y much-honor ed Chef Kathy Cary’s imaginative cooking without pa ying the prices at Lilly’s, this sibling spot is the place to go. $$ f

A LITTLE PEA CH CAFÉ 1860 Mellwood Ave., 2 387301. $ f e

LA ROUGE 2 52 E. Mark et St., 568-5555. Rick Longino of L ongino’s and Rick A dams, until recently chef at L &N W ine Bar & Bis tro, ha ve joined f orces t o launch a ne w bis tro-style dining room in the former Oscar Brown’s, in the booming epicenter of the Eas t Mark et arts-andentertainment district. $$$ p

JACK’S L OUNGE 12 2 Sears A ve., 89 7-902 6. A sophisticated, elegant bar as sociated with the Equus restaurant next door, Jack’s offers a short but e xcellent menu f eaturing appetiz ers and light bit es, along with a drinks lis t be yond reproach. $ p

NIOS 917 Baxt er A ve., 456- 7080. Specializing in a selection of “small plates,” a concept akin to tapas or the similar Latino bocaditos, Nios hits a culinary home run in this his toric building that housed Jupiter Grill and later @mosphere. $$$ p f

JAZZ F ACTORY 815 W . Mark et St. ( Glassworks), 992 -32 42 . L ouisville’s r estored Glas sworks building mak es a natur al home f or this edgy , stylish venue for serious, live jazz. Chef Jeff Jarfi’s eclectic and inno vative f are off ers an e xtra incentive for a jazz-filled evening. $$ p e

RAMSI’S CAFÉ ON THE W ORLD 12 93 Bar dstown Rd., 451-0700. Small, funk y and fun, this f avorite spot of the Highlands’ Gener ation X cr owd attracts f oodies of all ages with its friendly setting, r easonable pric es and w ell-prepared international cuisine. $$ f

KIMIS A SIAN BIS TRO 1915 Blank enbaker Pk wy., 2 36-1915. R estaurateur John Chung is amiable host at this ne w Eas t End v enture, an upscale Asian bistro that blends tr aditional Japanese fare with Chinese and K orean fla vors, including such Pacific Rim dishes as sushi, Chilean sea bas s with sweet mango and t orched salmon in par chment paper. $$ p

SWEET PEAS SOUTHERN 2350 Frankfort Ave., 8949091. Chris topher Seckman pr esides o ver this comfortable Cr escent Hill spot that f eatures traditional Southern f are with a t ouch of cr eative innovation. $ p f

L&N WINE BAR AND BIS TRO 1765 Mellwood Ave., 897-0070. If you’re enthusiastic about good wine,

TOLOGONO 3702 L exington Rd., 899-2 005. In an intriguing twist on takeout food, Tologono’s firstrate chefs will mak e you a gourmet-s tyle meal to take out ( or e ven ha ve deliv ered, within a reasonable radius of its St. Matthe ws venue) and

APPLEBY’S CAFÉ & WINE CELLAR 201 Spring St., Jeffersonville, IN, 2 83- 3663. Fine dining in a casual atmospher e. F are r anges fr om a wardwinning chili and the “Big St eve” burger at lunch to fine dining at night. T he recently added W ine Cellar offers the same fine fare and classy wine in a more casual atmosphere. $ f AROMA CAFÉ Caesars Indiana Casino , Elizabeth, IN, 888- 766-2 648. Gr ab a bit e bef ore hitting the casino . Sandwiches, salads, sides, c old beverages and coffee will fuel you for a night of entertainment. $ BENEDICT’S GARDEN CAFÉ 1519 Baxt er A ve., 479-7777. Small but welcoming, this tiny spot in a small shopping c enter jus t off Eas tern P arkway specializes in v egetarian f are, including such offbeat standards as a vegan “Philly cheesesteak” with ersatz meat and vegetarian cheese. $ f BLUE DOG BAKER Y AND CAFÉ 2 868 Fr ankfort Ave., 899-9800 . T his bak ery with its $50 ,000 Spanish wood-fired oven makes artisanal bread as good as you’ll find in the US, and competitive with the best in Eur ope. Its c omfortable, upscale café offers a short selection of tas ty dishes made t o show off the fine breads. $$ f BLUEGRASS CAFÉ 32 55 Bar dstown Rd. ( Quality Inn), 454-0451. This casual family dining spot in a motel c omplex on Bar dstown off ers tr aditional favorites that r ange from the Hot Br own to fried chicken. A menu of fr eshly made soups, salads, appetizers and desserts serves the light diner. $ p

Celebrating 58 years as Louisville’s hometown favorite for top quality seafood and much, much more.

THREE CONVENIENT LOCATIONS: On the River: 3021 Upper River Road ■ 895-0544 (Just east of Zorn Ave @ I-71)

601 W. Riverside ■ 284-3474 (On the Jeffersonville riverfront across from Louisville)

Around Town: 1610 Kentucky Mills Dr. ■ 240-0700 (Blankenbaker @ 1-64)

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BULLDOG CAFÉ 10619 W. Manslick Rd., 380-0600. $ f THE BUTTERFLY GARDEN CAFÉ 132 7 Bar dstown Rd., 456-4500. This tasteful little spot off ers teas and light er lunch f are in an attr active old-house setting. $ f THE CAFÉ A T THE L OUISVILLE ANTIQUE MALL 900 Goss Ave., 637-6869. One of the city’ s most attractive spots f or antique , this ca vernous old factory building off ers a similarly attr active plac e to catch lunch while you shop, offering a selection of competently made luncheon fare. $ CAFÉ FRAICHE 3642 Br ownsboro Rd., 894-89 2 9.

Cuisine from around the w orld is f eatured at this East End neighborhood café, f eaturing homemade soups, breads and a variety of entrées on a seasonally changing menu. $ CAFÉ J 3600 Dut chmans Ln. ( Jewish C ommunity Center), 459-0660. This authentic delicatessen in the Jewish Community Center offers fully k osher fare including homemade soups, salads and wideranging hot entrées. $ f CAMILLE’S SIDEWALK CAFÉ 2060 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 493-2005 $ f CHEDDAR BO X CAFÉ 12 12 1 Shelb yville Rd., 2 452622, 3909 Chenoweth Sq., 893-2324. Ladies who lunch oft en do so her e, lur ed b y an attr active selection of luncheon soups, salads and sandwiches .and desserts. $ f CITY CAFÉ 1907 S. F ourth St., 6 35-02 2 2 , 505 W .

Broadway, 589- 1797, 12 50 Bar dstown Rd., 4595600, 500 S. Pr eston St., 85 2 -5739. Chef Jim Henry, a long-time s tar in the city’ s culinary firmament, brings his cooking skills and insistence on fresh, quality ingr edients to these simple , but excellent, spots for lunch. $ f CYCLERS CAFÉ 2295 Lexington Rd., 451-5152. Is it a bicycle shop or a r estaurant? Well, it ’s both. T his informal spot will sell y ou a firs t-rate sandwich, soup or salad or a tire for your bike—or the whole darn bike! $ f DERBY CAFÉ 704 C entral A ve. (K entucky Derb y Museum), 634-0858. Lunch serv ed year-round in the dining ar ea adjac ent t o the Derb y Museum with such regional favorites as meaty Burgoo, and the Hot Brown. $ f DIEFENBACH CAFÉ 12 8 S. Ne w Alban y St., Sellersburg IN, 246-0686. $$ p e ERMIN’S BAKER Y & CAFÉ 12 01 S. Firs t St., 6 356960, 723 S. F ourth St., 58 7-9390, 454 S. F ourth Ave., 585-5120, 9550 U.S. Hwy 42, 228-7210, 211 E. Main St., New Albany, IN, 941-8674. These popular bakeries attr act cr owds looking f or an enjo yable soup and sandwich lunch highlight ed by Frenchstyle breads and pastries. $ FEDERAL HILL 310 Pearl St., Ne w Albany IN, 9486646. $ f GARDEN ROOM CAFÉ 911 S. Br ook St., 62 5- 1900.

Historic Male High School, no w T he Spectrum Building, houses Gumb y’s G arden R oom Café, a casual American-s tyle r estaurant oper ated b y longtime local caterer Phyllis “Gumby” Cornwell. $ f GERMANTOWN CAFÉ 1053 Gos s A ve., 6 37-9412 .

One of the man y old-f ashioned, simple and welcoming bars serving pub grub in L ouisville’s old Germantown neighborhood is as good a spot as any for a hot burger and a cold beer. $ p f e GRAPEVINE PANTRY & GIFT SHOP 11418 Old Main St., Middlet own, K Y, 2 45-1569. T he Middlet own Historic Dis trict is booming with s torefronts, restaurants and a laid back glimpse of the pas t.

The Gr apevine P antry off ers homemade soups, sandwiches and salads, cakes and pies. $ GROOVE CAFÉ 1882 Blackis ton Mill Rd., Clarks ville, IN, 949-3105. $ e

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J. GRAHAM’S CAFÉ & BAR 335 W. Broadway (The Brown Hot el), 583- 12 34. T he Br own’s casual café offers an alternative to the upscale English Grill. $ p JENICCA’S CAFÉ & WINE BAR 636 E. Mark et St., 587-872 0. A w orthy edition t o the booming arts district east of downtown, Jenicca’s is sophisticated and stylish, a fine c offee shop and casual wine bar with light fare and an upscale art-gallery vibe . $ f KAYROUZ CAFÉ 12 7 W iltshire Ave., 896-2 6 31. T hose who w ere saddened b y the los s of St. Matthe ws landmark J.P. Kayrouz will be delighted to learn that another K ayrouz gener ation is back in busines s, starting small in the tiny spot that once housed the original Tony Boombo zz. T hey’ve made good use of the spac e, off ering man y of the f amily’s old favorites in a stylishly renovated setting. $ f MERIDIAN CAFÉ 112 Meridian A ve., 897-9703. This little lunch spot oc cupies a c ozy old house in St. Matthews. Servic e is c ompetent and polit e, the place is sparkling clean, and the luncheon-s tyle fare ranges from good to excellent. $ MR. Z’S KITCHEN 869 S. Third St., 584-8504. It’s run by a friendly immigr ant f amily fr om Eas tern Europe, but the f ood is all- American at Mr . Z’ s Kitchen. It offers an appetizing option for a hearty diner-style meal. $ NORTH END CAFÉ 172 2 Fr ankfort A ve., 896-8 770.

This atmospheric Clift on spot in an artfully redesigned old shot gun house has bec ome one of the city’ s mos t popular spots, pr ompting a r ecent expansion and the addition of a full bar. The eclectic menu off ers diverse tapas and int eresting entrées, plus a bar gain-seeker’s wine lis t. It ’s an appealing, affordable place to dine. $ f PIG AND A PEPPERMINT 9521 US Hwy 42, 292-1245. $ f QUEUE CAFÉ 220 W. Main St. (LG&E Building), 583-0273. $ SWEET ‘N’ S AVORY CAFÉ 1574 Bar dstown Rd., 456-6566. Hearty brunch f are with a v egetarian accent mak es S weet ‘n’ Sa vory a popular destination for the Bardstown Road bunch. $ THIRD AND MAIN CAFÉ Building) 587-6171. $ f

2 2 0 W . Main St. (L

G&E

THIRD AVENUE CAFÉ 1164 South Third St., 585-2233.

One of m y f avorite plac es f or a casual meal, this exceptionally pleasant neighborhood eat ery is attracting lo yal cr owds with e xcellent f are and a cozy setting that brings you back for more. $$ p f e THYME CAFÉ 711 S. T hird St., 58 7-0400. This spicy eclectic café serv es up big tas te with special tuna, ham and chick en entrées and sandwiches. Fr esh basil tomato soup with the BLT on grilled sourdough is a fast-rising favorite in the neighborhood. $ WHITNEY’S DINER 5616 Bardstown Rd., 239-0919. $ f

BONEFISH GRILL 657 S. Hurs tbourne Pk wy., 4 12 4666. T his fr anchise c oncept fr om the Floridabased Outback St eakhouse chain off ers impressive seafood in a c omfortable setting. Add Bonefish t o y our short lis t of suburban chain eateries that do the job right. $$$ p CAROLINA SHRIMP & SEAFOOD 392 2 W estport Rd., 894-8947. In an Eas t End neighborhood rich with seaf ood eat eries, Car olina off ers a tas ty option within w alking dis tance of do wntown St. Matthews. T his spartan little joint f eatures shellfish and c od, much of it healthfully s teamed, not fried, in an aff ordable family setting. $ CLARKSVILLE SEAFOOD 916 Eas tern Blv d., Clarksville, IN, 2 83-8588. As the only surviving descendant of Louisville’s old Cape Codder chain, Clarksville Seafood upholds a long and honorable tradition. The menu is simple—fried fish and fried seafood, serv ed on paper tr ays—but it is consistently excellent and affordable. $ www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Fall 2006 63

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THE FISH HOUSE 1310 W inter A ve., 568-2 99 3.

Louisville is as o verflowing as a w ell-stocked lake with fish-sandwich houses, and The Fish House is right up there with the best. Crisp breading laced with black pepper is the signatur e of Green River fried fish from Western Kentucky. $ f THE FISHER Y 362 4 L exington Rd., 895- 1188. T he original fried-fish eatery in a neighborhood that ’s now awash with them, T he Fishery remains justly popular f or its quick, sizzling hot and aff ordable fish and seafood meals. $ f THE FISHERY STATION 5627 Outer Loop, 968-8363.

Family owned and f amily style dining with a wide net of seafood dinners and appetiz ers. Lunch and dinner menus also include such delicacies as fr og legs, shrimp and alligator. $ p HILL STREET FISH FRY 111 E. Hill St., 636-3474. This Old Louisville tradition is small and eas y to miss, but it ’s worth the effort to get by. Its oversize fried whitefish sandwich is the flagship dish, but a v aried menu is also available. $ f ISLAMORADA FISH CO. 951 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 218-5300. $$ p JOE’S CRAB SHA CK 131 Riv er Rd., 568- 1171. T he setting is bright, noisy and fun. But the food is the bottom line , and I’m pleased t o r eport that the seafood at Joe’s uniformly fresh and fine. $$ p f

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better fish sandwich an ywhere. W atch f or daily specials that take advantage of fresh product. $ Z’S OYSTER BAR & STEAKHOUSE (see listing under Fine Dining)

BABBY’S STEAKHOUSE 108 S. Fourth St., Utica, IN., 2 88-2 411. T his independent-minded s teakhouse is one of the metr o ar ea’s bes t v alues f or e xpertly prepared steaks. They come in all the usual siz es and c onfigurations, but someone in the kit chen has definite opinions about seasoning and grilling.

The result is a distinctive approach that rewards a visit. $$ f DEL FRISC O’S 4107 Oechsli A ve., 89 7-7077. Onc e ranked among the city’ s t op s teakhouses, Del Frisco’s r emains s trong in its c ore c ompetency.

For deeply marbled, fork-tender prime steaks, it’s still hard to beat on quality points. $$$$ p

DESIGN / BUILD “From concept to reality.”

MITCHELL’S FISH MARKET 4031 Summit Plaza Dr ., 412 -1818. T he dec or of this upscale , C olumbusbased chain e vokes the f eeling of a lar ge fish market, with an open kit chen that offers views of chefs at w ork. Quality seaf ood and servic e has made this a popular des tination. $$$ p f PASSTIME FISH HOUSE 10801 Locust Rd., 267-4633. $fe PROSPECT FISH MARKET 952 1A US 42 , Pr ospect, 2 2 8-6962 . If y ou’re on the eas tern edge of the metropolitan ar ea, Pr ospect Fish Mark et off ers good, aff ordable fish in a pleasant shoppingcenter setting. $ RUMORS RESTAURANT & RAW BAR 12339 Shelbyville Rd., 2 45-0366. V isualize Hoot er’s without the scantily-clad waitresses, and you’ve drawn a bead on Rumor’s, the original L ouisville home of the buck etof-oysters and impressive raw bar. $$ p f STAN’S FISH S ANDWICH 372 3 L exington Rd., 8966600. T he fish is the thing at Stan’ s, wher e the owner is a perfectionist who won’t sell any but the freshest fish, perf ectly pr epared. I’v e ne ver had a 64 Fall 2006 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

LONE S TAR S TEAKHOUSE & S ALOON 340 Whittington Pkwy., 339-9495. Lone Star rises abo ve the median f or fr anchised chain es tablishments on the basis of popularity and s tyle and v ery friendly service, with dec ent grub amid T exas-style surroundings and country music. $$ p f LONGHORN S TEAKHOUSE 2 535 Hurs tbourne Ln., 671-5350, 1210 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN. 2845800. Or der y our sirloin on the flat-t op or pork chops on the char; also prime rib , baby back ribs and a complete line of chicken entrées. All dinners come with salad and potat o choice. $$ p

OUTBACK STEAK HOUSE 4621 Shelbyville Rd., 895432 9, 65 2 0 Signatur e Dr ., 964-8383, 94 98 Brownsboro Rd., 42 6-432 9 , 8101 Bar dstown Rd., 2 31-2 399, 142 0 P ark Plac e, Clarks ville, IN, 2 834329. The name sugges ts Australia, and so does the shtick at this popular national chain, but the food is pr etty much f amiliar American, and the fare goes be yond jus t s teak t o tak e in chick en, seafood and pasta. $$$ p

KINGFISH RES TAURANT 302 1 Upper Riv er Rd., 895-0544, 1610 Kentucky Mills Dr., 240-0700, 601 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville, IN, 284-3474. Fried fish in a f amily dining setting has made this local chain a popular favorite for many years. Two of its properties—upper Riv er R oad and Riv erside Drive—boast river views. $$ p f

MIKE LINNIG’S 9308 Cane Run Rd., 9 37-1235. Mike Linnig’s has been dishing up tas ty fried fish and seafood at f amily pric es sinc e 19 2 5 and r emains immensely popular. There’s indoor seating and a bar, but the picnic grove with its giant shade trees makes Linnig’s a special place in season. $ f

LOGAN’S ROADHOUSE 5055 Shelbyville Rd., 89 33884, 5 2 2 9 Dixie Hw y., 448-05 77, 9 70 Hw y. 131, Clarksville, IN, 2 88-9 789. W ith mor e than 100 properties in 17 s tates, this Nash ville-based chain parlays peanut shells on the floor and s teaks on the table into a popular formula. $$ p

MORTON’S 62 6 W. Main St., 584-042 1. T he steaks are as good as it gets, the atmospher e is elegant without being s tuffy, and the servic e is outstanding. Mort on’s earns a solid thr ee s tars and r anks among the t op tier of L ouisville’s upscale dining choices. $$$$ p

JOJO’S FISH MARKET 2 902 Bar dstown Rd., 4517100. This small Highlands shop , vacant since the closing of the short-lived Highland Fish Market, is frying fish again, with dec or and s tyle so little changed that they’re still using the same sign out front. Fried fish sandwiches, oversized fish tacos and other seafood fare are first-rate and fairly priced. $

MAZZONI’S O YSTER CAFÉ 2 804 Taylorsville Rd., 451-4436. A his tory that dat es t o 1884 mak es Mazzoni’s one of the city’ s longes t-running restaurant acts. It mo ved fr om do wntown t o the suburbs a gener ation ago , but k ept its his toric serving bar and its urban f eeling, with pub grub , cold beer and the famous rolled oyster. $

JEFF RUB Y’S S TEAKHOUSE 32 5 W. Main St., 5840102. Cincinnati restaurateur Jeff Ruby, who owns five upscale eateries in the upriver city and one at Indiana’s Belt erra Casino , no w hos ts this glitzy Louisville pr operty, an upscale s teak house that bears his name . Fine beef is the main dr aw, with seafood and even sushi as a plus. $$$$ p e

• • • •

Concept & Design Construction & Equipment Real Estate & Brokerage Implementation Houston D. Jones, Jr. 13121 Eastpoint Park Blvd.

Eastpoint Office Park, Suite 7G Louisville, KY 40243 502.419.7799 502.228.4908 Fax Call or E-mail Houston for a confidential review of your needs.

houston@thehoustongroup.net

PAT’S S TEAK HOUSE 2 437 Br ownsboro Rd., 8969234. A visit to Pat’s may not be exactly like a trip back to the ‘50s, but when I at e there last, I think I sa w Ozzie and Harriet. A local f avorite, its combination of quality beef and hospitality rank it among the best steak houses in town. Bring cash: No credit cards accepted. $$$$ p PONDEROSA S TEAKHOUSE 11470 S. Pr eston Hw y., 964-6117, 816 S. K Y 53, La Gr ange, K Y, 2 2 2 - 12 2 6.

Family-style dining with the r anch theme k ept alive with the open flame fr om the grills. An extensive buff et with hot and c old f oods, salads and desserts is also available. $ RUTH’S CHRIS STEAKHOUSE 6100 Dutchman’s Ln., 479-0026. The Robb Report magazine has declared Rolex the world’s best watch, Armani the best men’s suit, C ohiba the bes t cigar and Ruth’ s Chris the bes t r estaurant. It serv es an e xcellent steak in an atmosphere of elegance that will make you feel pampered, at a price to match. $$$$ p

DILLON’S STEAKHOUSE 2101 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy, 499-7106. Dillon’ s has a dis tinctly diff erent atmosphere fr om mor e pric ey s teakhouses, with its ski-lodge atmospher e in a his toric L ouisville home. It ranks among the most affordable quality steak dinners that the city has t o offer. $$ p

RYAN’S FAMILY S TEAKHOUSE 7405 Preston Hw y., 964-1748, 5338 Bardstown Rd., 491-1088, 4711 Dixie Hwy., 44 7-4781, 6 36 Eas tern Blv d., Clarks ville, IN, 282-8520. This popular North Carolina-based chain offers f amily dining with good v ariety: Its div erse and extensive buffet features over 150 items. $

FIFTH QUARTER STEAKHOUSE 1241 Durrett Ln., 3612363. The Fifth Quarter has that touch of class that evokes family nostalgia and romantic interludes. An attentive staff serves the sirloin y our way. Some of the city’ s bes t iv ory mas ters ar e at the piano t o enhance the dining experience. $$$ p f e

STONEY RIVER LEGEND ARY STEAK 3900 Summit Plaza Dr ., 42 9-8944. St oney Riv er in the Springhurst shopping center is one of the chain’ s first properties outside its Georgia home. It draws big cr owds with its memor able s teaks and trimmings, with e xtra points f or friendly servic e and a comfortable atmosphere. $$$ p

FRANK’S S TEAK HOUSE 52 0 W . Se venth St., Jeffersonville IN, 2 83- 3383. A longtime north-ofthe-river favorite, this neighborhood s teak house is kno wn f or c omfort and hearty meals without pomp or circumstance. $$ p

TEXAS ROADHOUSE Green Tree Mall, Clarksville, IN, 2 80-1103, 4406 Dixie Hw y. 448-0 705, 6460 Dutchman’s Pk wy., 89 7-5005, 332 2 Out er L oop, 962-7600. The spirit of the W est sets the theme

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for this popular s teak house . Salads, v egetables and br eads with hearty side dishes r ound out your meal options. This is family-style dining, with no tray sliding—service at your table. $$ p TUMBLEWEED SOUTHWES T GRILL (17 locations ) (see listing under Southwest/Tex Mex) Z’S OYSTER BAR & STEAKHOUSE (see listing under Fine Dining)

A NICE RESTAURANT 3105 Blackiston Mill Rd., New Albany IN, 945-4321, 2784 Meijer Dr., 280-9160. A Nice R estaurant, billed as “Ne w Alban y’s Finer Diner,” is, well, nice. This sunny corner shop in the Old Mill Shopping C enter specializes in br eakfast and lunch. T he fare is do wn-home and simple , at a price you can afford. $ ANYTIMES A T THE RAMAD A INN 1041 Z orn A ve., 897-5101. Serving dinners only , the spacious restaurant opens at 4 p .m. and begins serving appetizers, salads, entrées and des serts. A s teak dinner is billed as the specialty of the house . $$ p APPLEBEE’S (9 locations ) T his cheery national chain f eatures an eclectic as sortment of salads, steaks, ribs, poultry and pas ta as w ell as full bar service. It ’s as c onsistent as a c ookie cutt er, but competent execution makes it a good bargain for those whose tas tes run t o mainstream American cuisine. $$ p BENTLEY’S 12 0 W . Br oadway (Holida y Inn), 582 2 241. Enjoy a K entucky hot br own or the all- youcan-eat prime rib buff et on Saturday nights. Each day features a pasta dish, a hearty soup and salad bar, as well as favorites from the cutting board and grill. $$ p e BIG HOPP ’S 800 W. Market St., 589-6600 . A wide variety of family-style fare, from fettuccine alfredo to fried chick en, is dished up with friendly , welcoming servic e at this popular local spot, in the busy Glassworks district. $ p f BUCKHEAD MOUNT AIN GRILL 3008 Bar dstown Rd., 456-6680 , 4 112 Out er L oop, 966-5555, 10430 Shelbyville Rd., 2 45-6680, 7 07 W . Riv erside Dr ., Jeffersonville IN, 284-2919. Buckhead’s combination of mountain lodge atmospher e and Americanstyle f are mak e these popular des tinations. T he large menu features down-home staples like meat loaf, pot pies, steak, ribs, and lighter fare for warm weather dining. The view of Louisville’s skyline from the riverfront location is not to be missed. $$ p f CAFÉ MA GNOLIA 140 N. F ourth St. ( Galt House ), 589-52 00. T he Galt House’ s quick and casual second-floor dining alt ernative, this spacious venue—formerly the River Grille, offers a range of fare for guests on the go, from bacon and eggs to a late-night burger and fries. $$$ p CALIFORNIA PIZZA KITCHEN 7900 Shelbyville Rd. (Oxmoor C enter), 42 5-512 5. Calif ornia pizza became a tr end when f amous chefs ga ve this simple Italian f are a multi-ethnic spin with nontraditional Pacific Rim toppings. CPK successfully translates this trend for the mass market. $$ p f CAPTAIN’S QU ARTERS 5700 Captain’ s Quart ers Rd., 2 2 8- 1651. One of the city’ s mos t attr active eateries f or atmospher e, Captain’ s Quart ers matches the beautiful setting with quality bis trostyle f are that w on’t disappoint. Summer or winter, it’s a delightful place to dine. $$ p f e CARDINAL HALL OF F AME CAFÉ 2745 Crittenden Dr., 635-8686. This oversize eatery at Gate 4 of the Kentucky Fair & Exposition Center celebrates U of L sports with a “walk of fame” loaded with awards, photos, game balls and lots mor e Car dinal memorabilia. What? Y ou w ant f ood t oo? Sur e!

Casual American dining features everything from a “Cardinal Burger” to steaks and prime rib. $$ p

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CHAMPIONS GRILL 505 Marriott Dr . (Holiday Inn), Clarksville, IN., 2 83-44 11. Kno wn b y locals f or its Saturday night buff et of Ne w Y ork s trip, ribe ye and prime rib . Salads, sandwiches, soups and a kid-friendly menu round out the selection. $$ p e CHEDDAR’S CA SUAL CAFÉ 10403 Westport Rd., 339-5400, 1385 V eteran’s Pk wy., Clarks ville, IN, 280-9660. This popular Dallas-based chain, drawing big, hungry crowds with its lar ge bar and f amiliar “casual to upscale American” fare. $ p CHICK INN 632 5 Upper Riv er Rd., 2 2 8- 3646.

Louisville’s familiar Chick Inn moved into upgraded quarters after a fire several years ago, but regulars still call it the “new place.” The new place is just as comfy as the old (although non-smok ers beware), and the fried chicken is as good as it gets. $$ p f CHILI’S 421 S. Hurs tbourne Pkwy., 425-6800, 3623 Bardstown Rd., 301-8888; 11600 Ant onia W ay, 301-8181. More than just a place to chow down on baby back ribs, this national chain has a wide selection including f ajitas, bur gers, sandwiches and veggies. $ p CHRIS’ PLACE 10317 Watterson Trail, 267-9955. This fine old . farmhouse near the Jeff ersontown Town Square, long the home of Sir Chur chill’s, is open again with a do wn-home American theme replacing its predecessor’s British feel. $$ p f e COY’S 4041 Pr eston Hw y., 36 3-2 2 66. Friendly service and old-fashioned comfort fare make this casual South End des tination ( successor t o the old Longino’s) a popular favorite, with a following attracted by affordable and bountiful portions. $$ pf CUNNINGHAM’S 630 S. F ourth St., 58 7-052 6, 301 Upper Riv er Rd., 2 2 8- 362 5. Carrying on int o its third c entury in modern quart ers that captur e much of the nostalgia of its history, Cunningham’s vends fine fish sandwiches and pub grub in this downtown location and in a sec ond eat ery on Harrods Creek. $ f DUKE’S GRILLE & BAR 4413. $$ p f

4004 G ardiner P t., 7 53-

EVA MAE’S 6313 Upper River Rd., 228-2882. $$ f e FOUNTAIN ROOM A T THE GAL T HOUSE 140 N. Fourth St., 589-5 2 00. T his c omfortable spac e features both buff et and menu dining. One pric e covers the fresh and hot buffet and salad bar. The menu oft en includes r egional and c ontemporary selections and daily chef specials. $ p GAVI’S RES TAURANT 2 2 2 S. Se venth St., 583-8183.

This f amily-owned eat ery has been ar ound f or decades. Standard casual American cuisine adds a few Rus sian-style specialties such as homemade borsht soup and beef Str oganoff. Daily lunch specials include lots of fresh vegetable dishes. $ HIPPO WINGS 502 E. W arnock St., 6 34-4477.

Proprietor Roy Gifford once played right guard for Middle Tennessee State University, but he’s a U of L fan now: His ne w spot v ends a fine as sortment of wings and other munchies, jus t right f or tailgating at nearby Papa John’s Stadium. $ HOOTERS 412 0 Dut chmans Ln., 895- 7100; 4 948 Dixie Hw y., 44 9-4194; 77 01 Pr eston Hw y., 9681606; 700 W. Riverside Dr., Jeff ersonville, IN, 2 189485; 94 1 Eas t Hw y. 131, Clarks ville, IN 2 84-9464.

Hooter’s may draw crowds with its long-s tanding reputation as a party sc ene, but you’ll stay for the food, an appetizing selection of soups, salads, seafood and more. Extra points for the company’s regular involvement in community causes. $ p f e JIMMY’S ON THE RIVER 100 W . Riv erside Dr ., Jeffersonville IN, 2 82 -2 500 . T he menu at this friendly bar and eat ery f eatures aff ordable bar food and munchies, but the f astidious ma y choose fr om the menu’ s “Light er Side .” Hearty meals at budget pric es and a s triking riv erside view. $ p f e www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Fall 2006 65

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JOE’S OLDER THAN DIRT 8131 New Lagrange Rd., 42 6-2 074. Going s trong aft er man y y ears in this Lyndon location, Joe’ s has gr adually grown from a little house t o a spr awling c omplex of indoor and out door tables with liv e music man y evenings. Excellent barbecue is a specialty, and so is ice-cold beer. $ p e

O’CHARLEY’S (6 locations ) O’Charle y’s, Inc. c ould serve well as the pictur e in the dictionary ne xt to “American casual dining. ” T he Nash ville-based chain operates 2 06 pr operties in 16 s tates in the Southeast and Midwest, serving a straightforward steak-and-seafood menu with the mott o “Mainstream with an attitude.” $$ p

JOLLY ROGERS 850 Main St., Charles town, IN, 2566366. $$ f

OLD CHICA GO P ASTA & PIZ ZA 9010 T aylorsville Rd., 301- 7700. T he quart ers that onc e housed hordes of noisy pizza-eating kids as Gattiland has taken on a mor e gr own-up char acter—but s till with pizza—as this gr owing chain arriv es in t own with thick Chicago-s tyle and thin tr aditional pies, and an imposing list of 110 beers. $$ p f

JUKE BO X Highlander Point Shopping C Floyds Knobs, IN, 923-1435. $ e

enter,

KAELIN’S RES TAURANT 1801 Ne wburg Rd., 4511801. This Highlands tradition has been around for almost 7 0 y ears, and their cheek y claim t o ha ve invented the cheeseburger actually seems to have some basis in f act. A spacious patio and r ecent renovations keep it up to date. $ f KARMA CAFÉ 112 6 Bar dstown Rd., 58 7-0062 .

Karma Café s tays open lat e and off ers dinerstyle courses—with a few Middle Eastern dishes for ac cent—in a casually arts y and inf ormal setting. $ f KERN’S KORNER 2 600 Bar dstown Rd., 456-9 72 6.

This f amily-owned ta vern has been a popular neighborhood pit s top sinc e 19 78. K ern’s off ers freshly made ham, chick en salad sandwiches and burgers, as w ell as a menu of soups, chilis and appetizers. $ p LEGENDS A T CAES ARS Caesars Indiana Casino , Elizabeth, IN, 888- 766-2 648. T he hot and c old short or ders ar e serv ed up with riv erboat hospitality, but in a Las Vegas atmosphere. A well stocked bar and a live stage welcome the best of regional and visiting national acts fr om Wednesday through Saturday nights. $$ p e LYNN’S PARADISE CAFÉ 984 Barret Ave., 583-3447.

One of the mos t popular places in town for brunch (and dinner t oo), Lynn’s Paradise Café lur es happy, hungry crowds with its hearty fare and funky decor.

Lynn’s sponsors the Stat e F air’s t ongue-in-cheek Ugliest Lamp C ontest, but ther e’s nothing ugly about the delicious and filling f ood. $$ p MAIN MENU 3306 Plaza Dr., New Albany, IN., 9486501. $$ MANHATTAN GRILL 200 S. 7th St., 561-0024. $ MASTERSON’S 1830 S. T hird St., 6 36-2 511. A fine , family L ouisville tr adition, this f amiliar T udor structure near the U of L campus is the s tate’s largest full-servic e r estaurant and the city’ s largest cat erer. Serving a lunch buff et Mon.-Fri., 10am-2pm only. Sunday Jazz Brunch. $ e MAX & ERMA ’S 2 901 S. Hurs tbourne Pk wy., 4 939662 , 39 2 1 Summit Plaza Dr ., 4 12 -52 2 9. Max & Erma’s, a national chain that started in Columbus, Ohio’s German Village in 1972, has grown to nearly 100 pr operties with a s teady f ormula of friendly service and casual-dining f are that r anges fr om specialty bur gers, soups and salads t o mor e weighty entrées. $$ p f MIMI’S CAFÉ 615 S. Hurs tbourne Pkwy., 42 6-6588.

This Calif ornia chain, a subsidiary of Bob E vans, goes urban and upscale wher e f armer Bob is folksy and c ountry. It ’s opening Dec ember in the former Hurs tbourne Don P ablo’s, and f olks who know the chain tell us they can hardly wait. $$ THE MONKEY WRENCH 1025 Barret Ave., 582-2433.

A popular spot in the urban neighborhood wher e the Highlands meet Germant own, T he Monk ey Wrench off ers c omfort f ood with a s tylish spin, accompanied by good music, a r elaxed ambience and exceptionally welcoming service. $ p f NEIL’S PLACE 7611 IN 311, Sellersbur g, IN, 2 46-5456.

Best known for the specially seasoned fried chicken.

Neil’s also mak es excellent pastas, steaks, seafood, and salads. Homemade soups are created daily and coffee and desserts are always fresh. $$ p 66 Fall 2006 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

ON THE RIVER DINING 1902 Victory Ln., 228-4359.

Restaurateur-hosts Cherri and Rick Br own off er old-fashioned do wn-home c ooking on this welcoming bar ge-based eat ery on the banks of the Ohio in Oldham C ounty. $ p f OTTO’S CAFÉ 500 S. F ourth St. (Seelbach Hilt on Hotel), 585-3201. Southern cooking with gourmet flair makes Otto’s an intriguing alt ernative to the Seelbach’s more upscale Oakroom. Check out the Southern Br eakfast Buff et and the Ex ecutive Express Lunch Buffet. $ PUB L OUISVILLE Fourth Str eet Liv e 56 9-7782 .

Owned b y Cincinnati’ s T he T avern R estaurant Group, T he P ub f eatures “nouv eau pub cuisine” ranging from shepherd’s pie and fish and chips to more Continental dishes lik e fried calamari and a seared ahi tuna entrée. $$ p f RAFFERTY’S OF L OUISVILLE 988 Br eckenridge Ln., 897-3900. 3601 Springhurs t Blvd., 412-9000.

This full-service, casual dining establishment has a hearty menu. Specialties lik e R ed Alfr edo P asta showcase the gourmet offerings along with some of the lar gest and mos t cr eative salad combinations in town. $$ p

SKYLINE CHILI 12 66 Bar dstown Rd., 4 73-12 34, Plainview V illage C enter, 42 9-5 77, 39 2 8 Dutchman’s Ln., 895- 7578, 6801 Dixie Hw y., 9 37402 0, 42 6 W . Mark et St., 56 1-9999. L ouisville’s outposts of a f amous Cincinnati chili r estaurant, these casual eat eries off er the r egional f avorite (really it ’s Gr eek spaghetti sauc e, but k eep it quiet) and other fast-food dishes. $ STEAK N SHAKE 32 32 Bar dstown Rd., 456-2 6 70, 4913 Dixie Hwy., 448-4400, 4545 Outer Loop, 9663109, 2 717 S. Hurs tbourne Pk wy., 4 91-3397, 10 72 1 Fischer P ark Dr ., 32 6- 362 5, 980 E. Hw y. 131, Clarksville, IN., 2 85- 1154. One of the oldes t f astfood chains in the U .S., St eak N Shak e tr aces its ancestry to an Illinois roadside stand in 1934. It now boasts 400 outlets in 19 states but still sticks to the basics: quality s teak bur gers and hand-dipped shakes served, if you dine in, on real china. $ TGI FRIDAY’S 9990 Linn Station Rd., 425-8185, 2311 Lime Kiln Ln., 32 7-8443, Fourth Street Live, 5853577. T he original plac e t o loosen the tie and congregate aft er the whis tle blo ws. TGIF carries on its party atmospher e tradition with American bistro dining and libations. T he bill of f are ranges fr om bask ets of appetiz ers on up t o contemporary entrées. $$ p f TOAST ON MARKET 736 E. Mark et St., 56 9-4099.

This quaintly his toric old theat er building, mor e recently a junque shop , is no w thor oughly renovated as the buzz-worthy Toast. Chef George Morris is turning out simple yet exciting breakfast and lunch dishes that add a t ongue-in-cheek bistro spin to traditional diner fare. $ p f TOMMY LANCASTER RESTAURANT 1629 E. Market St., New Albany, IN, 945-2 389 . Value and v ariety are the s trong points of this c ommunity tradition and the f are goes fr om bur gers t o lobs ter tails.

Friday or Saturday evenings feature a buffet. $ p

RANCH HOUSE 2611 Charlestown Rd., Ne w Albany, IN, 944-9199. The menu and the retro 1950s decor hark back t o the original Bob C olgazier’s restaurants that Baby Boomers remember fondly from days gone by. $ e

TRELLIS RESTAURANT 320 W. Jefferson St. (Hyatt Regency), 58 7-3434. Dine on café f are in the Hyatt’s lofty atrium lobb y while y ou tak e advantage of an en vironment made f or peoplewatching. $$ p

RED ROBIN GOURMET BURGERS 9870 Von Allmen Ct., 339-8616. The Robin just landed in the Brownsboro Crossings shopping center in the far East End. The first Louisville-area property of a highly regarded chain that s tarted in Seattle , it off ers a v ariety of “gourmet burgers” and trimmings. $$ p f

TUCKER’S 2 441 Stat e St., Ne w Alban y, IN, 9449999. Tucker’s gives you a little bit of e verything with a do wn-to-earth flair, off ering bur gers, ribs, steaks, a variety of appetizers and pastas. $ p

RUBY TUESD AY 11701 Bluegr ass Pk wy., 2 6 7-7100, 1354 V eterans Pk wy., Clarks ville, IN. 2 88-5010 . If success demons trates quality , then Rub y Tuesday’s 600 int ernational pr operties and 30,000 emplo yees can s tand up with pride .

They’ve been upholding the slogan “ Awesome Food. Serious Salad Bar ” in L ouisville f or a generation. $$ p e THE RUDYARD KIPLING 42 2 W. Oak St., 6 36-1311.

The word “eclectic” fits this Old L ouisville eatery in jus t about e very dimension, fr om its funk y decor to its diverse bill of f are, not to mention an array of ent ertainment that bridges the generations fr om Gener ation X’ ers t o aging hippies. $ p f e SAM’S FOOD & SPIRIT S 3800 P ayne K ohler Rd., Clarksville, IN, 945-9757, 724 Highlander Point Dr., Floyds Knobs, IN, 9 2 3-7979. Opened b y a man named Sam some 16 years ago, the two locations feed an army of happy diners. You’ll find seafood, steaks, pas tas, salads and des serts. T he menu is extensive and child friendly. $$ p SHANE’S 1004 10th St., Jeffersonville, IN, 218-9769. $ SHONEY’S 1890 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-6870, 811 Eastern Pkwy., 636-1043, 6511 Signatur e Dr., 9698904. F or nearly 50 y ears, Shone y’s r estaurants have been one of America’ s t op choic es f or f ast roadside dining, and happily they’ve kept up with the times. $

TWICE TOLD PERFORMANCE CAFÉ 3507 W. Hwy. 146, LaGrange, 222-4506. An eclectic urban café in a village setting, about 2 0 minut es eas t of downtown in LaGr ange. T he casual menu lis ts sandwiches, fruits and v eggies; daily soups and entrées. $ e TWIG & LEAF RES TAURANT 2 12 2 Bar dstown Rd., 451-8944. A popular Highlands hangout, the ”Twig” is probably at its best for breakfast—whether you’re enjoying it while v enturing out on a leisur ely Sunday morning or heading home v ery lat e on a Saturday night. It ’s a plac e t o gr ab a quick, filling bite, and doesn’t pretend to be more. $ THE VILLA BUFFET Caesars Indiana Casino , Elizabeth, IN, 888- 766-2 648. T he V illa Buff et offers an impr essive choic e of int ernational dishes, with some 150 selections. A seaf ood buffet is featured on Fridays. $$ WESTPORT GENERAL S TORE 7008 Hw y 5 2 4, Westport, KY., 222-4626. Only a half-hour ’s drive up the Ohio fr om Louisville, proprietors Will and Laura Cr awford w elcome visit ors t o this c ozy destination, offering a comfortably sophisticated bill of f are that w ould in no w ay be out of plac e in a fancy city bistro. $$ THE WING ZONE 905 Hess Ln., 636-2445. Another new wings emporium situated to catch the fancy of U of L f ans, W ing Z one e xcels with jumbo wings in 25 fla vors, including tr aditional Buffalostyle wings that range from Mild to Nuclear. $ f

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comfort food, as the name “ diner” suggests, but transcendently adds a gourmet tas te t o the down-home eats. $ BARBARA LEE’S KIT CHEN 2 410 Br ownsboro Rd., 897-3967. Barbara Lee’s has been a lat e-night refuge for years. It’s a reliable standby for those in search of traditional blue-plate special lunch food. Honest grub, honestly priced, in a rootsy atmosphere. $

HAZELWOOD RESTAURANT 4106 Taylor Blvd., 3619104. Whether y ou lik e y our eggs o ver eas y, or your cheesebur gers w ell done , y ou’ll lik e the Hazelwood R estaurant. Standar d short or ders cooked with lots of character and a low price. $

BIG MAMA ’S SOUL KIT CHEN 4532 W . Br oadway, 772 -9580. Big Mama’ s ma y be the mos t hospitable place in the W est End t o get genuine soul f ood. A diff erent main c ourse is f eatured daily, all home-c ooked f ood, including such goodies as baked chicken, smothered pork chops, meat loaf, catfish … and fried chicken every day. $

HOMETOWN BUFFET 1700 Alliant Ave., 267-7044, 3710 Chamberlain Ln., 32 6-9 777, 664 1 Dixie Hw y., 9953320, 757 Hwy. 131, Clarksville, IN., 285-1893. This chain serves up nos talgic dishes, cas seroles, meats and desserts that allow you to set an all-American supper table with the all-you-can eat price tag. $

CAROLYN’S 3822 Cane Run Rd., 776-9519. The steam table classic, the “meat ‘n’ tw o” gives you the roast chicken, green beans and mashed potatoes. Or pork chops, applesauce and limas. $ CHECK’S CAFÉ 1101 E. Burnett A ve., 637-9515. You can scent a whiff of L ouisville history coming off the old w alls of this quint essential Germant own saloon, along with years of frying grease. The bar food here is about as good as bar f ood gets, and that’s not bad. T he chili and the bean soup ar e particularly recommended. $ p f e THE CHICKEN HOUSE 7180 Hwy. 111, Sellersburg, IN., 2 46-9485. T he parking lot of this whit e fr ame building in rur al Indiana is pack ed on w eekend nights as f amilies from throughout the ar ea wait on delectable fried chick en. This is the v ery heart of American comfort food, including green beans, dumplings, and mashed potatoes. $$ CHICKEN KING 639 E. Br oadway, 589-5464. Spicy , crunchy and sizzling hot fried chick en is the primary draw on a short, aff ordable menu. $ COTTAGE CAFÉ 11609 Main St., Middlet own, 2 449497. This nostalgic old house in the c ountryside offers a tas te of K entucky-style c ookery in an array of lunch specials that r ange fr om homemade soups and sandwiches t o the traditional Louisville Hot Brown. $ COTTAGE INN 570 Eas tern Pk wy., 6 37-432 5. No w, this is down-home dining. Tucked away under big shade trees on Eas tern Parkway not f ar from the University of L ouisville’s Belknap Campus, Cottage Inn has been happily doling out excellent food for more than 70 years. $ DINNER IS DONE 3830 Ruckreigel Pkwy., 267-8686. $ D’NALLEY’S 970 S. T hird St., 583-8015. Dirt-cheap blue-plate specials and hearty br eakfasts bring droves to the c ounters and booths of this clas sic greasy spoon. Satur day morning hours ar e sporadic, but for a quick plate of meat loaf, green beans, and mashed potat oes, D’Nalley’s is a har d place to beat. $ FORK IN THE ROAD RESTAURANT 4951 Cane Run Rd., 448-3903. $ FRONTIER DINER 72 99 Dixie Hw y., 2 71-3663. T he name “ diner” sa ys it all, and this friendly neighborhood spot Dixie High way deliv ers jus t what y ou’d e xpect in do wn-home c omfort f are.

The word on the s treet, though, is simple: Go f or the pancakes. They’re worth a special trip. $ GENNY’S DINER 2 2 2 3 Fr ankfort A ve., 89 3-092 3.

What’s the difference between Genny’s Diner and a saloon? You can take the kids to Genny’s. Better still, y ou can get a darn good meal at Genn y’s, provided that y ou set y our e xpectations f or hearty, filling and well-prepared diner food. $ p e GOLDEN CORRAL 4032 Taylorsville Rd., 485-0004, 8013 Pr eston Hw y., 966-4 970, 140 2 C edar St., 2 58-2 540. Buff et s tyle family dining—one pric e, all you can eat. Steaks are served beginning at 4 pm. $ GOOSE CREEK DINER 2923 Goose Creek Rd., 3398070. Goose Cr eek Diner off ers old-f ashioned

INDI’S RESTAURANT 1033 W. Broadway, 589-7985, 382 0 W. Mark et St., 77 8-5154, 4 901 Poplar L evel Rd., 964-5 749, 3353 F ern V alley Rd., 96 9-7993, 5009 S. T hird St., 36 3-2 535. Gr own fr om a tin y West End tak eout spot t o a mini-chain, Indi’ s vends a v ariety of aff ordable soul f ood and barbecue specialties to take out or eat in. $ JESSIE’S FAMILY RES TAURANT 9609 Dixie Hw y., 937-6332 . C ountry c ooking is Jes sie’s specialty , with hearty breakfast, lunch and dinner platters to fill the inner person. $ KINGS F AST FOOD 2 101 W . Br oadway, 77 2 -7138.

This tin y, c olorful W est End eat ery, open f or takeout only , off ers a v ast selection of filling, affordable urban f are that r anges fr om hot-andspicy chicken wings to rib tips and more. $ KING’S FRIED CHICKEN 1302 Dixie Hwy., 776-3013. $ LONGINO’S 1506 Berry Blvd., 361-9153. Don’t let the Italian family name fool you, this local fixture near Churchill Do wns f eatures do wn-home c ooking, mostly, r anging fr om fried gr een t omatoes t o hearty meat loaf to “The Manhattan.” $ MR. L OU’S C OUNTRY C OTTAGE RES TAURANT 5408 Valley Station Rd., 9 33-0806. Biscuits and red-eye gravy, country ham and grits show off Mr. Lou’s c ountry c ooking s tyle. R oast chick en is a dinner favorite, and so are homemade pies. $ O’DOLLYS 7800 Third St. Rd., 375-1690. Homestyle steam-table favorites are available from breakfast through dinner , not t o mention full bar servic e that mak es O’Dolly s a South west L ouisville destination. $ p f OLIVE’S ON FOURTH 570 S. F ourth St., 588-900 3.

No matt er what y ou’re hungry f or, chanc es ar e Olive’s has it—fr om s team-table f are t o pizza and calzones. C o-owners Linda Z eisloft and V icky Wright bring long back grounds at Sulliv an University to this comfortable downtown spot $ f SWEET PEA’S SOUTHERN (see listing under Bistro) TOLL BRIDGE INN 3300 North western Pk wy., 77 65505. A rich and c olorful his tory surr ounds the century-old fr ame building in Portland that no w houses the T oll Bridge Inn, a neighborhood favorite for simple, filling down-home fare. $ f WAGNER’S PHARMACY 3113 S. Fourth St., 375-3800.

A track-side institution that has as much history as the nearby Twin Spires of Churchill Downs. Soups, sandwiches, shak es, cherry C okes and an early bird “ trainer’s” br eakfast can be enjo yed all y ear round. Racing his tory on the w alls and serv ers who’ll call you “hon.” $ WEBB’S MARKET 944 E. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 5830318. Webb’s is deli sandwich market style dining.

Country ham sandwiches and the half-pound cheeseburger are a specialty. $

ANN’S BY THE RIVER 149 Spring St., Jeff ersonville, IN., 2 84-2 66 7. T his bus tling eat ery is caf eteria style dining done well. They serve up the standard steam table meat-and-three menu items as good www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Fall 2006 67

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as any. With the Ohio River a block away, it’s aptly named. $ CRAVINGS A LA CARTE 101 S. Fifth St. (National City Tower), 589-42 30 . T his thrifty deli off ers a variety of build- your-own sandwiches, a soupand-salad bar, and specialty bars f eaturing baked potatoes, and a monthly ethnic cr eation. $ HALL’S CAFETERIA 1301 St ory A ve., 583-043 7.

Hall’s Cafeteria has been doing a brisk business on the steam tables since 1955, attracting customers from Butchertown’s truck loading docks and from offices downtown. $ JANE’S CAFETERIA 4601 Jennings Ln., 454- 72 86.

This 40- year-old f amily-owned r estaurant kno ws how t o c ook f or f olks mis sing their home table .

Count on an att entive s taff and fr esh southern fare. $ JAY’S CAFETERIA 1812 W . Muhammad Ali Blv d., 583-2 534. Ja y’s modern, w ell-scrubbed building wouldn’t be out of plac e on Hurs tbourne Lane .

Hungry diners fr om all o ver t own find a w arm welcome at this popular West End location that ’s now run as a c ommunity-development pr ogram by two local churches. $ PICCADILLY CAFETERIA 2131 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 493-9900, 133 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 423-1733. An east end favorite for variety, Piccadilly offers roast beef, fried chicken, cod, steak and shrimp dinners, a gar dener’s lis t of v egetables and a f ew ethnic dishes for global measure. $ SOUTH SIDE INN CAFETERIA 114 E. Main St., Ne w Albany, IN., 945-9645. Ne w o wners Joe Pee vor and Angela Ha wley, ha ve spruc ed up this venerable old caf eteria sinc e taking o ver this summer, and the y’re adding a sports bar and patio. Don’t look for much change in South Side’s familiar f are, though: T here’s no point in fixing what’s not broken. $

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BUFFALO CROSSING 1140 Bagdad Rd., Shelb yville, KY, (502) 647-0377. If you’d like to combine a day trip with a culinary adv enture, consider a drive to Buffalo Cr ossing in Shelb y C ounty. T his agricultural amusement park f eatures a 500-head buffalo herd and an o versize dining r oom where you can give this healthy red meat a try. The food here is c ountry-style and so ar e the friendly servers. $$ f DERBY DINNER PLAYHOUSE 525 Marriott Dr., Clarksville, IN, 288-8281. The play’s the thing at Derby Dinner Playhouse, L ouisville’s long-running entry in the dinner-theater s weepstakes … but the e xpansive buffet dinner adds value to the mix. $$$$ e HOWL AT THE MOON Fourth Street Live, 562-9400.

What’ll they think of next? How about a nightclub that f eatures a “ dueling” piano bar with tw o pianos and a sing-along c oncept? You’ll find this 4,000-square-foot club at F ourth Str eet Liv e on the ground level. $ p e JOE HUBER F AMILY F ARM & RES TAURANT 2421 Scottsville Rd., Starlight IN, 9 23-5255. A pleasant 2 0-minute driv e fr om do wntown L ouisville, Huber’s has built a solid r eputation f or simple farm fare that’s well-made, fresh and good. Some of the pr oduce is gr own on the pr emises in season. $$ p f e

nostalgia trip: My Old K entucky Dinner T rain offers a f our-course meal during a tw o-hour voyage along scenic Kentucky railroad tracks near Bardstown in vintage 1940s-er a dining cars.

Reservations ar e s trongly r ecommended. All aboard! $$$$ p STAR CRUISES 151 W. Riv erside Rd., Jeff ersonville, IN, 2 18- 1565. T he Ohio Riv er cruise is the bes t thing about this L ove Boat-s tyle y acht that makes nightly all- you-can-eat cruises up the river. $$$$ p f STUMLER RES TAURANT & ORCHARD 1092 4 St. John’s Rd., Starlight, IN, 9 23-3832. Fresh produce is available in the big shed a f ew steps away, and that fresh produce shows up on the tables here in mammoth portions. C ombine that with hones t fried chick en, big ham s teaks, r oast beef , and sandwiches, and you can’t go wrong. $$ f

AMERICAN PIZ ZA 6712 Shepher dsville Rd., 962 8966. $ p e ANGILO’S PIZZA 1725 Berry Blvd., 368-1032. The local favorite is the s teak hoagie , dripping with pizza sauce, pickles and onions. Angilo’ s also off ers a wide selection of hot pizza pies and c old beer. $ ANGIO’S RES TAURANT 3731 Old Bar dstown Rd., 451-5454. T his small Buechel eat ery attr acts a friendly neighborhood crowd with hefty subs and quality pizzas, along with c old beer. $

LUCKY S TRIKE LANES / FEL T Fourth Str eet Liv e, 560-1400. An upscale bo wling alle y? A clas sy poolroom? Who knew! These twin concepts from Jillian’s founders Stephen and Gillian F oster light up Fourth Street Live with a stylish blend of ’50sstyle r etro and high-t ech modern, plus a menu that serves much more than mere bar food. $$ p f

ANNIE’S PIZZA 2520 Portland Ave., 776-6400, 4007 Cane Run Rd., 44 9-4444. Annie’ s has made-t oorder pizza and a v ariety of s tacked sandwiches such as the Big Daddy Str om with beef , Italian sausage, onions and banana peppers. $

MY OLD KENTUCK Y DINNER TRAIN 602 N. T hird St., Bardstown, KY, (502) 348-7300. Talk about a

ARNI’S PIZZA 1208 State St., New Albany, IN, 9451149, 3700 Paoli Pike, Floyds Knobs, IN, 923-9805.

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A favorite Hoosier pizza and sandwich stop. Insist on getting the Deluxe. $ AVER’S GOURMET PIZZA 4610 Taylorsville Rd., 6711999. T his gr owing r egional mini-chain boas ts a “gourmet pizza t o go” c oncept that f eatures “exotic” pizza c ombos lik e “Cr eam & Crimson, ” featuring potatoes and bacon, Alfredo sauce and cheese. Takeout and delivery only. $$ BEARNO’S PIZZA 131 W. Main St., 584- 7720, 2900 Taylorsville Rd., 458-8605, 6 101 Bar dstown Rd., 2 31-2 2 2 2 , 135-F Mark etplace Dr ., 95 7-5100, 10117 Taylorsville Rd., 2 6 7-2 549, 1318 Bar dstown Rd., 456-4556, 8019 Pr eston Hw y., 968-6060 , 4 105 Dixie Hwy., 449-4141, 9222 Westport Rd.,423-1224, 7895 Dixie Hwy., 937-1234, 1923 S. Fourth St., 6345155, 3002 Charlestown Crossing, 949-7914. $ p BRUNO’S PIZZA 5170 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, (812) 944-5050. $$ CICI’S PIZZA 470 New Albany Plaza, Ne w Albany, IN., 944-4 942 , 309 3 Br eckinridge Ln., 45 2 -6700, 52 2 6 Dixie Hw y., 448-8895. Serious bar gainhunters will find Cici’ s culinary offer hard to beat.

This Dallas-based chain serv es up all the pizza you can eat for only $3.99. $ CLIFTON’S PIZ ZA 2 2 30 Fr ankfort Ave., 89 3-3730.

Clifton’s pizza appeals t o me with its adult s tyle, full of the bold fla vors of herbs and spic es and available with gr own-up t oppings lik e ancho vies and artichoke hearts. All this and funky, fun decor makes it one of m y favorite local pizzerias. $ f e DANNY MAC’S PASTA & PIZZA 1014 Clarks Ln., 6357994. $ DOMINO’S PIZZA (20 locations) $$ FAST BREAK PIZ ZA 682 5 C entral A ve., 2 43-1101.

Scott Hack’s new Italian spot, featuring pizza, subs and other Italian- American goodies in a spacious sports bar with a bask etball theme, is luring pizza lovers out to Crestwood for fine traditional pizzas plus such inno vative it ems as the pineappletopped Big Kahuna and, believe it or not, a baconcheeseburger pie. $

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HOMETOWN PIZZA 11804 Shelbyville Rd., 245-4555, 8442 Dixie Hw y., 9 35-3555, La Gr ange Squar e Shopping C enter, 2 2 2 -4444. P asta dishes, hoagies, s tromboli and c old beer ar e a vailable, and so is the one-of-a-kind Bac on Cheeseburger pizza. $$ IROQUOIS PIZZA 6614 Manslick Rd., 363-3211. $$ JOCKAMO’S PIZZA PUB 983 Goss Ave., 637-5406.

Old-timers are delighted to see Jock amo’s Pizza Pub back in business in Germantown, more than a decade after it depart ed Bardstown Road. Some of the original o wners ( except the lat e Da ve Wilder) ha ve r ecreated the s tyle, the mood and the live music, of the original. $$ e LITTLE CAES AR’S PIZ ZA 816 K enwood Dr ., 3665599, 9017 G alene Dr ., 2 6 7-8600, 562 2 Pr eston Hwy. 966-5800 , 6 714 Out er L oop, 966- 3111, 12 418 LaGrange Rd., 2 41-5445. T his Detr oit-based pizzeria chain los t mark et shar e in the ‘90s, but business analysts say the c ompany known f or its two-for-one “pizza pizza” deal has turned things around with a renewed commitment to quality and service. $$ LOUISVILLE PIZZA CO. 3910 Ruckriegel Pkwy., 2671188. Also kno wn as Chubb y Ra y’s, this local pizzeria mak es good, fr esh pizzas and ItalianAmerican sandwiches. $ p f MA ZERELLA S 949 S. Indiana A ve., Sellersburg, IN, 2 46-9517, 2 868 Charles town Rd., Ne w Alban y, IN, 948-8000. Pleasant f amily-run-for-family-fun establishments. Pizza, pas ta, salads and subs served for lunch and dinner seven days a week. $ MR. GATTI’S 5600 S. T hird St., 36 3-2 2 11, 8594 Dixie Hwy., 935-0100, 3319 Bardstown Rd., 451-0540, 1108 Lyndon Ln., 339-8338, 2 2 47 S. Pr eston St., 6 356708, 42 00 Out er L oop, 964-09 2 0. T his A ustinbased chain w as one of the firs t national pizzerias t o r each L ouisville in the 19 70s, and

quality ingredients—plus Gattiland playgrounds for the kids—ha ve made its crisp , thin-crus t pizzas a popular draw for nearly 30 years. $$ NEW YORK CAPRI PIZZA 1503 Lynch Ln., Clarksville, IN, 284-1480. $ PA PA MURPHY’S PIZ ZA 2 91 N. Hubbar ds Ln., 8956363, 5016 Mud Ln., 962- 7272, 9501 Taylorsville Rd., 2 66-7000, 16 1 Out er L oop, 36 1-3444; 460 7 Out er Loop, 964- 72 72 ; 12 535 Shelb yville Rd., 2 53-9191, 6756 Bar dstown Rd., 2 39-82 82 , 1305 V eterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 280-7272. $$ PAPA JOHN’S PIZ ZA (30 locations ) “P apa” John Schnatter got int o the pizza game as a Southern Indiana high-school student in 1984 and has built his business into a 3, 000-restaurant international chain on the basis of a simple f ormula: traditional pizza, made fr om quality ingr edients in a straightforward style. $$ PIZZA BO X 10331 Champion F arms Dr ., 42 3-0530 .

Moved early in 2 005 fr om its longtime , spartan quarters near the Ford Kentucky Truck Plant, Pizza Box now boasts more modern and stylish quarters in Springhurs t. It ’s s till a popular gathering plac e, and the e xcellent pizzas ar e s till a dr aw, e ven if they’ve cut back on the onc e imposing beer list. $ PIZZA BY THE GUY 8109 Lagrange Rd., 426-4044.

This locally owned franchise is famous for its extra spicy, hand-t ossed dough. C ome and get it, literally, because ther e’s only a c ozy table f or three at the store and most folks pick up their pie or have it delivered. $ PIZZA HUT (15 locations) $$ PIZZA KING 382 5 Charles town Rd., Ne w Alban y IN, 945-4405, 1066 K ehoe Ln., Jeff ersonville, IN., 2 82 8286. The pizza at Pizza King is bak ed in a s turdy, clay stone oven and hand-tossed with thinner crust where the ingredients go all the way to the edge. $$

FAT JIMMY’S 9901C LaGr ange Rd., 339-8111, 2 712 Frankfort A ve., 891-4555; 2 2 08 Bar dstown Rd., 479-1040; 1382 9 English V illa Dr., 2 44-0840; 5 2 8 S. Fifth St. This friendly neighborhood nook offers a cold mug of beer and a hot slice of pizza, along with sub sandwiches, pas ta dishes and salads.

The Lyndon spot lures a friendly bik er crowd; the Crescent Hill eatery reflects its urban setting. $ FAT TONY’S PIZZA 9910 Linn Station Rd., 339-3553.

Formerly Brick Ov en Pizza, F at Tony’s has been attracting big lunchtime crowds to Plainview with authentic Ne w Y ork-style pizza, the thin-crus t kind with o versize slices that y ou have to fold in half in order to make a mouth-size portion. Other basic Italian- American pas ta dishes add t o the appeal of this casual, aff ordable spot. $$ FRATELLO’S PIZ ZA 735 E wing Ln., Jeff ersonville, IN, 2 84- 12 34. F amily o wned and oper ated, Fratello’s off ers fr esh, homemade pies. T angy, spicy sauc e and a che wy crus t with a dis tinctly garlicky fla vor define Fr atello’s pizza; add points for warm and friendly hospitality $ FRESCO SOUTHWES T GRILL & PIZ ZA 2 047 L ytle St., 77 6-6077. L ocally o wned and oper ated but with development as a chain in its busines s plan, this comfortable, welcoming spot opened firs t in the city’ s r estaurant-underserved Portland neighborhood, off ering f ast-food s tyle and a choice of w ell-made burritos and other Me xicanstyle goodies and pizza, t oo. $ f FROLIO’S PIZ ZA 3799 Poplar L evel Rd., 456- 1000.

Just ar ound the c orner fr om the L ouisville Z oo, Frolio’s is a neighborhood pizz eria with a c ozy, dim Italian- American mood and an all- you-caneat pizza-and-salad lunch special. $$ f www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Fall 2006 69

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PIZZA PLACE 2931 Richland Ave., 458-9700. $ PRADO’S PIZZA 12935 Shelbyville Rd., 254-722. $$ SNAPPY T OMATO (7 L ocations) A gr owing Midwestern pizza-deliv ery chain based in Northern K entucky, Snapp y Tomato mo ved int o the Louisville market this summer, taking o ver all the pr operties v acated in Pizza Magia’ s demise .

Pizzas are made with fresh ingredients (including an unusual cinnamon-apple pizza “pie”), and the chicken wings are impressive. $$ SPINELLI’S PIZ ZERIA 614 Baxt er A ve., 568-5665.

This tin y s torefront in the city’ s night club z one offers a tas ty option f or the wide-e yed-late-atnight cr owd seeking good cheap eats; it ’s open until 5 a.m nightly fr om W ednesdays thr ough Saturdays. Bett er y et, it giv es L ouisville an authentic taste of Philadelphia specialties: Philly style pizza and real Philly cheese steaks. $ f SPORTSTIME PIZZA 3312 Plaza Dr., New Albany, IN, 944-2 577. T outing “ the bes t pizza in southern Indiana” is quite a boast, but when the pizza biz is part of the Ne w Albanian Br ewing Company, the boast carries w eight. T he N.A.B. C. is the ne west offshoot of Rich O’s, nationally noted for its huge selection of microbrews and hard-to-find imports.

Try the “Herbavore” with spinach, sliced tomatoes and roasted garlic for a sizzling start. $ TONY BOOMBOZZ 3334 Frankfort Ave., 896-9090, 1448 Bar dstown Rd., 458-8889 . Boombo zz wins praise f or e xceptionally high quality pizza and other quick Italian-style fare. Tony’s pizzas include both tr aditional pies and gourmet-s tyle specialties that ha ve w on a wards in national competition. $$ TONY BOOMBO ZZ PIZ ZA & VINO 2 813 N. Hurstbourne Pk wy., 394-0000 . Boombo zz has taken its pizza c oncept t o a ne w le vel with the opening of Pizza & V ino in Springhurs t. The new “fast casual” f acility f eatures the a ward-winning Boombozz pizzas and paninis with a w ell-chosen wine and beer lis t, in a a s triking “urban loft ” tangerine and jade setting with Italian-made furniture to add an upscale ac cent. $$ p TONY IMPELLIZ ZERI’S 108 V ieux Carr e Dr ., 42 90606. The original Impellizzeri’s Pizza is gone from the Highlands, but this decade-old s trip-center storefront near Hurstbourne houses brother Tony’s venture. If you like the massive, heavily loaded Impellizzeri pizza s tyle, it ’s a tr eat not t o be missed. $$ UNO CHICAGO BAR & GRILL 6501 Bar dstown Rd., 2 39-0079. T his suc cessful fr anchise serv es up Chicago style pizza—deep dish with more toppings than crust. Steaks, pastas, sandwiches and burgers complement the full service menu. $$ p VITO’S PIZ ZERIA 32 13 Pr eston Hw y., 6 34-5400.

Reasonable people can diff er on the subject, but Vito’s f ans sa y the sizzling, o ven-charred pies at this downscale little plac e on Pr eston are among the best pizzas in town. $$ WICKS PIZ ZA PARLOR 975 Baxt er Ave., 458- 182 8, 2927 Goose Creek Rd., 327-9425, 12717 Shelbyville Rd., 213-9425, 10966 Dixie Hwy., 995-4333. Wick’s wins popularity with a w elcoming mix of good pizza, a quality beer lis t and a friendly neighborhood feel at all thr ee of its eat eries. The pies ar e s traightforward, made with ample toppings. “The Big Wick” is a favorite. $ p WINGS TO GO 4324 Charlestown Rd., Ne w Albany, IN, 941-9464. $ WINDY CITY PIZ ZERIA 2 62 2 S. F ourth St., 6 363708. Stuffed Chicago-style and crispy thin-crust pizzas off er whiche ver option a pizza lo ver desires. $$

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AMAZING GRA CE WHOLE FOOD S DELI 1133 Bardstown Rd., 485- 112 2 . If you think “v egan” means only r aw carrots, bean spr outs, seeds and roots, think again. No animals w ere harmed in the making of the tas ty alt ernative sandwiches and other dishes at this neat little deli attached t o a spiffy local organic-foods grocery. $ ANOTHER PLACE SANDWICH SHOP 119 S. Seventh St., 589-4115. If you want to buy a car, go to a car dealer. To buy a carpet, patr onize a carpet shop .

And if you’ve got a sandwich on your to-do list, it makes sense to go to a sandwich shop. $ BACKYARD BURGER 1800 Priority Way, 240-9945.

The open flame at this c ounter-service diner provides the ne xt best thing t o a f amily cookout.

Sandwiches, fresh salads, fruit c obblers and oldfashioned hand-dipped milkshak es enhanc e the nostalgic theme. $ f BANK SHOT BILLIARDS 403 E. Market St., 587-8260. $ BLIMPIE’S SUBS & S ALADS 2020 Brownsboro Rd., 899-7960, 3360 Hik es Ln., 451-5480 . Sublime subs—fast and fr esh. Blimpie’s is all that … and a bag of chips. $ C.A.P.P.P.’S DELI 4010 Dupont Cir., 895-7064. $ CHICAGO GRILL & SUBS 1626 Spring St., Jeffersonville, IN. 288-5988. $ f CHICAGO GYROS 2317 Brownsboro Rd., 895-3270. $ p CIANO’S 11904 Shelbyville Rd., 245-6997. $ DANISH EXPRES S PASTRIES 102 1/2 Cannons Ln., 895-2 863. Jus t a f ew tables turn this tak eout nook int o a sit-in br eakfast and lunch spot f or a handful of diners at a time . Full br eakfasts and light lunches ar e a vailable, but as the name implies, Danish pas tries ar e the specialty , and they’re fine. $ DEVINO’S 320 Main St., 56 9-3939. Right acr oss the street fr om L ouisville Slugger Field, this s tylish new deli adds another lunch and dinner option t o the booming eas t-of-downtown z one.

Sandwiches ar e made fr om quality Boar ’s Head meats and cheeses cut on the pr emises, with dining inside and on the patio; pack age beer and wine is also available. $ f DINO’S DO WN T O L UNCH CAFÉ 2 39 S Fifth St. (Kentucky Home Life Building) 585-2874. $ DIZZY WHIZZ DRIVE-IN 217 W. St. Catherine St., 5833828. This neighborhood eat ery is an ins titution. It goes back more than 50 years and hasn’t changed much. It opens early and stays open late and offers good value for what you’d expect. $ f DMITRI’S DELI 521 S. T hird St., 584-8060 . A do wntown deli f avorite. Daily specials ar e surr ounded by an impr essive v ariety of sandwiches, soups and salads. $ f DOOLEY’S BAGELCATESSEN 12903 Shelbyville Rd., 245-3354, 216 N. Hurs tbourne Ln., 394-0021, 980 Breckenridge Ln., 89 3-3354, 2 2 41 Stat e St., Ne w Albany, IN, 981-012 4, 2226 Holida y Manor C enter, 42 6-3354. T his c onvenient deli specializ es in bagels, as the name implies. Br eakfast means fresh bagels with an arr ay of cr eam cheese , sausage, eggs and coffee. At lunchtime lines form for sandwiches—subs, panini, wr aps, hot melts and cold cuts. $ EURO MARKET 12 907 F actory Ln., 2 43-0000. It looks like a neighborhood c onvenience store and bottle shop, but when you get inside, it contains a delicious surprise: an appetizing servic e c ounter offers a v ariety of goodies t o take out or eat in.

Don’t miss the e xcellent fried-oyster box, as w ell as an intriguing selection of quality beers and fine wines. $

THE FEED BA G DELI 133 Breckenridge Ln., 896- 1899.

The grilled salmon bur ger is w orth the visit, as well as the Triple Crown wrap with three meats or a fresh veggie wrap. Soups, des serts t op off the lunch-only schedule. $ FRASCELLI’S NEW Y ORK DELI 62 47 Cr estwood Station, 2 43-9005. Small and spartan, this tw oroom storefront just out from Pewee Valley offers a broad selection of Italian-s tyle deli sandwiches, plus a shorter list of home-style Italian hot dishes from lasagna to baked ziti. $ HEADY’Z 947 Baxter Ave., 454-5507. Formerly Cheba Hut, this quick-service sub shop continues with the head-shop theme and good quick eats. $ HERMAN’S DELICA TESSEN 3985 Dut chmans Ln., 897-7570. In y et another not eworthy geogr aphical and ethnic shift, this building that onc e held a Tumbleweed (and w as originally an Ollie’ s Trolley) now houses a f airly good r endition of a Ne w York City kosher-style deli. Make mine pastrami! $$ HONEYBAKED CAFÉ 4600 Shelb yville Rd., 8956001, 6423 Bardstown Rd., 239-9292, 757 Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 284-1799. $ HOTDOG HEAVEN 209 E. Main St., 222-2626. $

pf

JERSEY MIKE’S SUBS AND S ALADS 10266 Shelbyville Rd., 2 44-1991, 10519 Fischer P ark Dr ., 42 5-102 5, 9156 T aylorsville Rd., 4 99-9830. Eas t Coast-style sub shop with local faves that includes cheese, ham, pr osciuttini, capic ola, salami, pepperoni and fixings. $ JIMMY JOHN’S SUB SHOP 894-9393. $ f

3901 Dut chmans Ln.,

JUANITA’S BURGER BOY 1450 S. Brook, 635-7410.

For a r eal slic e of L ouisville lif e, this w eathered greasy spoon at the corner of Brook and Burnett is the r eal thing. Neighborhood deniz ens drink coffee and chow down on burgers and breakfast until the wee hours (the joint is open 24 hours). If Louisville is home t o a budding Charles Bukowski, ther e’s a good chanc e he’ s sitting at Juanita’s counter right no w, recovering from last night’s excesses. $ LITTLE CHEF 147 E. Mark et St., Ne w Alban y, IN, 949-7567. E very city needs a pos tage-stampsized spot that kno ws ho w t o fry potat oes and grill up a burger. In New Albany, the place is Little Chef. Biscuits and gr avy, fried eggs, and bur gers, in a joint that seems lik e a thr owback t o the heartland of America, circa 1940. $ f LONNIE’S BEST TASTE OF CHICAGO 121 St. Matthews Ave., 895-2 380 . T his appetizing oper ation off ers genuine Chicago hot dogs and a tas te of Chicago atmosphere for a price that won’t hurt your wallet.

Make Lonnie’s the plac e to go when y ou’ve got a hankering for Windy City fare. $ LOTSA PASTA 3717 Lexington Rd., 896-6 361. As the name sugges ts, L otsa P asta originat ed as an Italian specialty-food store, and it has been a local favorite since it opened over 20 years ago. It now offers deli meats and cheeses and an eclectic international selection of sausages and cheese .

Now with an e xcellent deli c ounter fashions New Orleans-style muffulettas and other sandwiches. $ LUNCH TODAY 590 Missouri Ave., Jeffersonville, IN, 2 82 -1005. T his outfit pr epares its shar e of the soups, salads and sandwiches that the downtown workforce needs to re-energize. $ f MAIN EATERY 643 W. Main St., 589- 3354. Smack dab in the middle of the Main Str eet his toric district, this f ashionable deli lur es the sa vvy business midday crowd. $ f MARKET ON MARKET 445 E. Market St., 568-8810.

Sharing the ground floor of the renovated, historic Cobalt building with Primo , this upscale mark et brings gr ocery options t o the gr owing liv e-in population east of downtown, and an inviting deli for sandwiches and salads, t oo. $

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MCALISTER’S DELI 10041 Forest Green Blvd., 4258900, 2721 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 671-2424, 2400 Lime Kiln Ln., 339-8544, 6508 Bar dstown Rd., 2 39-9997, 1305 V eterans Pk wy., Clarks ville, IN, 282-3354. Emphasizing quality cus tomer service, this delicatessen ladles up such soups as gumbo and chick en t ortilla along with cutting boar d favorites. They have a special w ay with a tumbler of sweet iced tea and lemon. $ f MORRIS DELI & CA TERING 2 2 2 8 Taylorsville Rd., 458-1668. Man y locals s till kno w this small, popular Highlands deli as K arem Deeb’s aft er its longtime pr evious o wner. Mos tly f or tak eout—it packs in a f ew cr owded tables—it ’s kno wn f or high-quality, hand-made deli fare. $ NANCY’S BA GEL GROUND S 2 101 Fr ankfort A ve., 895-832 3. A friendly and casual neighborhood gathering spot. Off erings include soups, snacks, coffee drinks and bagels made on the premises to its own rather idiosyncratic formula. $ f NORD’S BROWN BAG PUB & DELI 2100 S. Preston St., 635-6747. This simple little neighborhood spot near the University of Louisville may not be much for atmosphere, but well-fashioned if simple diner fare vaults it into the realm of serious destinations for har d-core “f oodies,” with e xtra cr edit f or friendly, welcoming service. $ OLLIE’S TROLLEY 978 S. Third St., 583-5214. A little piece of f ast-food his tory r emains on an urban street c orner in Old L ouisville. It ’s one of the nation’s f ew surviving tr olleys of the L ouisvillebased chain that spr ead across the nation in the ‘70s. Ov ersize bur gers with a spicy , homemade flavor are just as good as ever. $ ORDERS UP CAFÉ & DELI 1981 Nelson Miller Pkwy., 245-5991. Quick and casual, Or ders Up offers the inviting atmosphere of dr opping in t o someone’s home f or lunch. Soups salads and fr eshly made sandwiches ar e unif ormly appetizing, and sandwiches are affordably priced at $5 or les s. $ PANERA BREAD C O. 5000 Shelb yville Rd., 8999992 , 62 2 1 Dut chmans Ln., 895-9991, 601 S. Hurstbourne Ln., 42 3- 7343, 10451 Champion Farms Dr ., 42 6-2 134, 1040 V eterans Pk wy., Clarksville, IN, 2 88-9400 . W arm br eads finishbaked on the pr emises mak e a tas ty base f or a variety of sandwiches. Soups, salads, c offee drinks and a fr ee W iFi hotspot mak e P anera’s outlets popular gathering places. $ f PAUL’S FRUIT MARKET 3905 Chenoweth Sq., 8968918, 4 946 Br ownsboro Rd., 42 6-5059 , 12 119 Shelbyville Rd., 2 53-00 72 , 3704 Taylorsville Rd., 456-4750. One of L ouisville’s popular sour ces for pr oduce, cheeses, deli it ems, and the lik e.

Deli sandwiches and salads ar e a vailable (takeout only). $ PENN S TATION (14 L ocations). Billed as the Eas t Coast Sub Headquart ers, this sandwich kit chen does a brisk business here in the Louisville area. $ QUIZNO’S SUBS (17 locations ) T oasted br eads, a sandwich selection of meats, v eggies and fish ar e built to fight hunger. Fresh soups are available daily, from chili to chowder; so are salads and desserts. $ SCHLOTZSKY’S DELI 42 59 Out er L oop, 96 9-0506, 10531 Fischer P ark Dr., 42 5-844, 12 915 Shelb yville Rd., 2 44-9069. T he original Schlotzsk y’s off ered just one kind of sandwich—“T he Original”—when it opened its first eatery in Austin, Texas, in 1971. Now this national chain vends a full selection of deli-style fare, with one significant impr ovement on the traditional deli: the servers are invariably polite. $ f SHADY LANE CAFÉ 4806 Brownsboro Center, 8935118. T wo Guys and a Grill is no mor e, but one assumes that the grill r emains on the pr emises of this suburban luncheon spot under its new name $ SOUPY’S 3019 Br eckenridge Ln., 451-532 5, 46 32 S. Hurstbourne Pk wy., 4 99-4404, 4590 Dixie Hwy,

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449-2 000, 94 93 W estport Rd, 42 5-2 54 9, 2 9 30 Dr. W illiam W eathers Dr., 774-2 500. In the soup kettles y ou will find such clas sics as chees y potato, bean and ham, br occoli and cheese , chicken and dumplings and mor e. At the cutting board they’ll make you meat, cheese and v eggie sandwiches according to your custom design. $ THE S TARVING ARTIS T CAFÉ & DELI Lagrange Rd., 412-1599. $

8034 Ne w

STEVENS & STEVENS 1114 Bardstown Rd., 584-3354.

Sharing space with the popular Ditt o’s, Stevens & Stevens is primarily kno wn f or cat ering and takeout fare. They cook just as w ell if y ou choose to stay in, though, off ering appealing sandwiches and deli fare with a healthy twist. $ STRAWBERRY P ATCH DELI 11616 Shelb yville Rd., 2 54-1440. T his Middlet own deli off ers health y food with a dash of gourmet and a sprinkle of southern. $ SUB STATION II 3101 Fern Valley Rd., 964- 1075. The hardy No . 19 , a six -meat-and-cheese super sub , keeps the store buzzing. An arr ay of sandwiches, salad sides and des serts fill out an appetizing lunch menu. $ THE BODEGA 829 E. Market St., 569-4100. This new entry in the e xciting F elice Plaza eas t of downtown c ombines a small specialty -food market, wine-and-beer shop and deli under one compact r oof. Select fr om Blue Dog br eads, Boar’s Head meats and cheeses and other good things, and the y’ll build y our lunch t o dine in or enjoy on their sunny patio. $ f THEATER SQU ARE DELI 2 2 T heater Squar e, 5840364. T he name has changed (f ormerly Anthony’s), but the mis sion remains pretty much the same: Feed do wntown lunch cr owds quick and affordable deli fare and sandwiches f W.W. C OUSINS RES TAURANT 900 Dupont Rd., 897-9684. T his locally o wned and oper ated eatery looks a lot lik e the national Fuddruck ers chain, but the local bo ys do a bett er job , with huge bur gers on magis terial home-bak ed buns and a Metropolitan Museum of toppings. $ WALL ST. DELI 225 Abraham Flexner Way at Jewish Hospital, 585-4202. Offering New York style with Kentucky flair, this bus y downtown deli will serv e in-house diners or tak e or ders f or deliv eries.

Authentic Nathan’s Hot Dogs are a specialty. $ WILD O ATS NA TURAL MARKETPLA CE 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 721-7373. This national natural-food grocery includes a sit-do wn café wher e y ou can order pizzas, sandwiches, or even sushi. $ f ZAP’S 423 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 587-0251 $

BAKE’S BARBEQUE 542 7 V alley Station Rd., 9 350999. Bak e’s ribs ar e smok ed t o such t ender perfection that the meat slides off the bone . This is four-star barbecue , fully c ompetitive with the region’s best. $$ BOOTLEG BARBECUE COMPANY 9704 Bardstown Rd., 2 39-2 72 2 , 7 508 Pr eston Hw y., 968-565 7.

Bootleg Barbecue off ers a t ouch of rus ticity and a good helping of c ountry hospitality, as it dishes out hearty portions of w ell pr epared and affordable smok ed meats and fixin’ s. It ’s one of the f ew plac es in L ouisville wher e y ou can get Western Kentucky-style mutton barbecue. $ f BOURBON BROS. BBQ 2900 Brownsboro Rd., 8962 486; 16 11 Charles town-New Alban y Pik e, Jeffersonville, IN, 2 83-9000 . Bourbon Br os. BBQ prepares w ell-crafted smok ed meats including pork ribs that, on their bes t da ys, appr oach competition quality. An added plus f or interesting sauces including at leas t one that ’s amply dosed with the eatery’s namesake booze. Winning critical www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Fall 2006 71

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acclaim as one of the city’ s t op barbecue joints, now adds a location in Southern Indiana. $ f BRANDON’S BAR-B-QUE 9246 Westport Rd., 4266666. Servic e is caf eteria-style in this shoppingcenter es tablishment f eaturing T ennessee-style barbecue, wher e hick ory-smoked barbecue sandwiches and filling, aff ordable dinners are the specialty. $ CLARK BOY BAR-B-Q 672 8 Johnsont own Rd., 9 335577. If it’s a little off the beaten path, there’s nothing the matter with that. Clark Bo y’s reasonably priced Western K entucky-style barbecue is w ell w orth a special trip . Lik e man y mom ’n’ pop eat eries, it accepts cash only, no plastic. $ FAMOUS D AVE’S BAR-B-QUE 8605 Citadel W ay, 493-2 812 , 1360 V eterans Pk wy., Clarks ville, IN, 282-3283. This franchise chain oper ation may be based in the twin cities, but it looks like a Georgia gas station with its e xuberant, if tongue-in-cheek faux country decor. The important thing, though, is the f ood, and Da ve’s e xcels with genuine , hickory-smoked barbecue. $$ p f FINLEY’S HICK ORY SMOKED BAR-B-Q 1500 W .

Broadway, 581-0298. Rib tips are the specialty but you’ll find turk ey legs, ham, half-chick ens, pork chops and shr edded beef and pork —all f or dinners or sandwiches, and barbecued pig’ s feet for the BBQ purists. $ f FIRE FRESH BBQ 6435 Bardstown Rd., 2 39- 7800, 3065 Breckinridge Ln., 459-5201, 808 Lyndon Ln., 32 7-6304, 2 11 S. Fifth St., 5401171, 86 10 Dixie Hwy., 995- 7585, 12 2 16 Shelb yville Rd., 2 45-2 2 73.

Fire fighters, it is said, eat heartily and well. It’s no coincidence, then, that Fir eFresh Bar B Q pa ys homage to local fire departments in its restaurant’s decor. T he barbecue and c ountry fixin’ s s tand comparison to the best firehouse cuisine. $ f JIMBO’S BBQ 801 Kenwood Dr., 375-1888. This South End barbecue shack, an outpost of a popular spot in C orydon, IN, off ers a fine r ange of barbecue meats skillfully smok ed on the pr emises, with sauce served on the side as it should be . $ JUCY’S SMOKEHOUSE BAR-B-QUE 7626 Lagrange Rd., 2 41-582 9. Jucy’ s off ers e xceptionally good Texas-style barbecue fr om a little w ooden shack that looks jus t lik e a c ountry BBQ joint should.

Highly recommended. $$ f MARCUS’ RIBS B Y THE SLAB 701 Algonquin Pk wy., 637-5333. Long-known as Cleon’ s Rib Shack, this West End f avorite’s ne w name r eflects ne w ownership, but w e’re hearing that one important thing hasn’t changed: It ’s s till a fine plac e t o get manly spare ribs and soulful sides, inner-city style. $ MARK’S FEED S TORE 1142 2 Shelb yville Rd., 2 440140, 1514 Bar dstown Rd., 458- 1570, 10 316 Dixie Hwy., 933-7707, 513 E. IN Hw y. 131, Clarks ville, IN, 285-1998. Named for its first restaurant’s location in a f ormer f eed s tore with that do wn-home country f eel, Mark’ s impr esses with high-quality hickory-smoked pork and chicken, and rich, silken South Car olina barbecue sauc e, the y ellow mustard-based variety. $$ f OLE HICKORY PIT BAR-B-QUE 6106 Shepherdsville Rd., 968-0585. Located in an attractive house not far fr om Gener al Electric ’s Applianc e P ark, this Louisville relative of a f amous Western Kentucky barbecue pit is well worth the trip. $ PEPPER SHAKER CHILI & BAR-B-Q 4912 Pr eston Hwy., 964- 3011. A squadr on of hea vy black -iron smokers burn thr ough c ords of hick ory t o turn out some of the t own’s best barbecue at a pric e that’s right. $ p PICNICATERS BBQ & CATERING 514 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 584-7427. Located across from Louisville Gardens, this place puts the hot sauce, wings and chops right in the middle of a hungry busines s district. $ f 72 Fall 2006 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

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PIG CITY BBQ 12 003 Shelb yville Rd., 2 44-3535.

Down-home and hones t, the name of this ne w barbecue eatery in a Middletown shopping center pretty much sa ys it all. Smok e ’em if y ou’ve got ’em—and they do with all cherry w ood. $$ f PIT S TOP BAR-B-QUE 612 S. Fifth St., 584-4054.

Genuine T exas barbecue , dry and t ender meat, red-rimmed and savory from hours in the smoker, is the style served here. March up to the window, place your order, bus your own plate. No muss, no fuss, and it is very good. $ f RUBBIE’S BAR-B-QUE & BREW 6905 Southside Dr., 367-0007. T his South End f amily kno ws ho w t o do BBQ. It ma y be off the beat en path f or some folks but here you’ll find the bounty of secret BBQ recipes. $ p f e SCOTTY’S RIBS AND MORE 14049 Shelbyville Rd., 2 44-6868. Ribs, pork, chick en a la cart e and dinners. The small East End venue moves a lot of pizzas and salads as well. $$ p SMOKEY BONES BBQ 2525 Hurstbourne Gem Ln., 491-7570. A ne wish “ concept” of the Orlandobased Dar den chain that runs Oliv e G arden, Red L obster and Bahama Br eeze, this hot Hurstbourne spot off ers good ribs in a nois y sports-bar environment that emulates a Colorado ski lodge. $$ p TONY ROMA’S 150 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 327-8500.

From the t omato tang t o a smok y Blue Ridge savor, R oma’s adv ertises its ribs as the bes t dressed in t own. Burgers, chicken and s teaks are available as w ell, but w e r ecommend the r acks and baby backs of pork and beef . $$$ p VINCE S TATEN’S OLD TIME BARBEQUE 13306 W. US 42 , 2 2 8-742 7. A uthor V ince Stat en, who literally wr ote the book on barbecue (Real Barbecue), has moved on, but his name r emains on this neighborhood joint out the r oad in Oldham County. $

19TH GREEN PUB & GRILL 1740 W illiamsburg Dr., Jeffersonville IN, (812) 284-9088. $ p f BEEF O’BRAD Y’S 2 39 Blank enbaker Pk wy., 2 542 32 2 , 562 8 Bar dstown Rd., 2 39-2 2 2 6, 10000 Brownsboro Rd., 32 7-8881, 3101 S. Sec ond St., 637-3737, 105 LaF ollette, 9 2 3-1316. If y ou think your basic sports pub is only suitable f or guy s guzzling beer, tak e another look: Beef O’Br ady’s puts the “family” in “family sports pub,” offering a wholesome environment. $ BIG D AVE’S OUTPOS T 1801 Bar dstown Rd., 4599142 . No w open in the old house at Bar dstown Road and Speed A venue r ecently v acated b y Judge Roy Bean, Big Da ve’s evokes a hint of the happy memory of the old Fat Cats that once held court her e: In similar f ashion, it ’s a casual, laidback neighborhood saloon, wher e libations and simple pub grub are the order of business. $ p f e BLUE MULE SPORT S CAFÉ 10301 Taylorsville Rd., 240-0051. Longtime buddies John O’C onnor and Jim “Mule” Riley talked for years about opening a restaurant and sports bar . Riley died bef ore their dream came true . But no w O’C onnor pr oudly presides o ver this 90-seat casual Jeff ersontown eatery and watering hole, and he has named it in affectionate memory of his friend “Mule .” $ p e BROWNIE’S “THE SHED” GRILLE & BAR 237 Whittington Pk wy., 32 6-9830 . Restaurant o wner and namesak e K eith Br own used t o hos t neighborhood gatherings in a shed at his home .

Now he brings the same sociable c oncept to his pub and eatery. Louisville’s official home for Cincy Bengals fans, Brownie’s may be the closes t thing Hurstbourne has to a Germantown neighborhood saloon. $ p

BUFFALO WILD WINGS (BW-3’S) 6801 Dixie Hwy., 935-1997, 3900 Shelb yville Rd., 899- 7732 , 9134 Taylorsville Rd., 499-2356, 3584 Springhurst Blvd., 394-9596, 12 901 Shelb yville Rd., 2 54-9464, 1055 Bardstown Rd., 454- 3635. As much a sports bar as a restaurant, this national franchise chain offers tasty snack -type f are, including the chain’ s trademark Buffalo chicken wings. $$ p f CHAMPIONS SPORT S RES TAURANT 2 80 W .

Jefferson St. (L ouisville Marriott), 6 71-42 46.

Another popular option at the s triking ne w downtown Marriott, Champions pr ovides a fun, casual dining alt ernative with a K entucky sports theme—and a gallery of big-scr een televisions to keep the sports action flo wing as fr eely as the libations and upscale pub grub . $$ p f CHATTER’S BAR & GRILL Pkwy., 961-9700. $$ p f

2 745 S. Hurs tbourne

CRIBSTONE PUB 1202 Bardstown Rd., 459-3339. This tiny Bardstown Road eatery turns a neighborhood bar int o a lobs ter and s teak house , wher e fine seafood and beef is serv ed without pomp or circumstance in a setting so casual that y ou can wear your shorts and T-shirt to dine. $$$ p DELTA RESTAURANT 434 W. Market St., 584-0860.

It’s not quit e as his toric as Gideon Shry ock’s Jefferson C ounty C ourthouse around the c orner, but this popular bar and short-or der spot seems as if it has been a hangout f or la wyers and the courthouse crowd for just about as long as there’s been a Courthouse. $ p DIAMOND PUB & BILLIARD S 3814 Fr ankfort Ave., 895-7513. $ p f DUTCH’S TAVERN 3922 Shelbyville Rd., 895-9004.

Do y ou lik e guitars with y our grub ? A popular half-way-home hangout f or decades in the heart of St. Matthe ws, this no-frills but all charm pub serves up a hardy plate lunch by day and amps up the action with music by night. $ p e FLABBY’S SCHNITZELBURG 1101 Lydia St., 637-9136.

Family-owned sinc e 195 2 , Flabb y’s is a quintessential Germantown saloon. It’s also one of the city’ s t op des tinations f or ine xpensive do wnhome eats, fr om authentic German dishes t o fantastic fried chicken on weekends. $ FLANAGAN’S ALE HOUSE 934 Baxt er A ve., 5853700. Gourmet pizzas, hoagies, and an enormous beer selection dr aw Highlands f olks t o this c ozy neighborhood pub . F or a lat e night pizza (the kitchen’s open until 2 a.m.), it ’s one of the bes t options in the city. $$ p FOUR KINGS CAFÉ 4642 Jennings Ln., 968-2 9 30.

Steam-table servic e f eaturing spaghetti and meatballs, lasagna and chick en attr act a hungry lunch cr owd at this casual spot, and brunch specialties are just as popular. $ p FOX & HOUND 302 Bullitt Ln., 394-7620. A “British pub” c oncept oper ated b y a W ichita, K ansasbased chain, F ox & Hound’ s ne w fr ee-standing property at Oxmoor C enter f eatures a “midcasual” menu with burgers, pizza, chicken and pot roast, in a large, classy venue with plenty of wood paneling, billiards tables and an ample supply of large-screen televisions. $$ p f GERSTLE’S PLACE 3801 Frankfort Ave., 899-3609.

A popular St. Matthe ws neighborhood ta vern since 1924. Although dining is secondary to booze and sports here, the food goes well beyond mere pub grub. $ p e GRANVILLE INN 1601 S. T hird St., 6 35-6475. A longtime gathering plac e f or U of L s tudents, faculty and f ans, this s turdy r edbrick ta vern jus t north of the univ ersity campus off ers a good variety of bar munchies, sandwiches and simple grilled f are plus pizza. It ’s perhaps bes t kno wn, though, for the signature Granville Burger, widely reputed as one of the bes t burgers in town. $

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GREAT AMERICAN GRILL 2 735 Critt enden Dr .

(Hilton), 6 37-2 42 4. L ocated in the L ouisville International Airport Hilt on. Salads, bur gers, pastas and sandwiches ar e a vailable f or the casual diner; main entrées include New York strip, filet of salmon and more. $ p f

THE BACK DOOR 2787 S. Floyd St., 637-5241. Billed as a premier destination for good food and lots of fun, this casual spot ne xt to Papa John’s Stadium features clas sic American f avorites and seaf ood specialties, plus a full bar , TV s and an e xpansive game room. $ p f

HITCHING POS T INN 7314 F egenbush Ln., 2 394724. In addition t o its full bar and beer gar den, and liv ely c onversation, the Hit ching Pos t Inn offers an arr ay of pub grub , including bur gers, chicken tenders, and sandwiches. $ p

VIC’S CAFÉ E. Market St., New Albany, IN, 944-4338. $

HOOPS GRILL AND SPORT S BAR 12205 Westport Rd., 32 7-8002 , 6 733 Str awberry Ln., 3 75-4667.

The name sa ys it all: sports, casual dining and good things to drink all find their natural meeting place in these friendly neighborhood spots where hot wings and hoops reign supreme. $ p f JAKE’S & MR. G’S 10432 Shelbyville Rd., 244-0165 $

p

JERSEY’S CAFÉ 1515 Lynch Ln., Clarks ville, IN, 2 882 100. Quality , aff ordable f are that goes w ell beyond pub grub t o include an a wesome smokehouse burger and barbecued ribs so tender, they say, that you can just tap the end of the bone on your plate, and the meat falls off. $ p e JIMMY AND RICHIE’S 813 Lyndon Ln., 423-7774. $$ p f JP’S PUB & GRUB 5610 Outer Loop, 966-8223. $ p f THE LIGHTHOUSE 2 02 Main St., Jeff ersonville, IN, 2 83-0077. T his lighthouse has been a beac on of casual, home c ooking and ta vern en vironment f or years. Daily specials, appetiz ers, chick en and fish baskets, salads and desserts round out the menu. $ MACVITTIE’S 106 Sears Ave., 895-2599. An intriguing range of casual, homemade vittles, er , vitties that range from German Jaeger Schnitz el to beef s tew in a bread-loaf “bowl” highlight the bill of fare at this friendly, locally o wned St. Matthe ws spot that f or many years was home to Asiatique. $ p MICHAEL MURPHY’S RES TAURANT 701 S. Firs t St., 587-0013. This full servic e restaurant and bar has accommodated hardy thirsts and appetit es for a couple of gener ations. Despit e the Irish appeal, the food is American and lots of it. $ p NEW DIRECTION BAR & GRILL 2 630 Chamberlain Ln., 243-8429. $ p e P. NUT S SPORT S BAR & GRILL 1506 Lak eshore Ct., 412 -1700. T his ne w w atering hole in Plain view boasts a friendly suburban pub atmospher e, offering bar and grill food with a sports-bar theme.

Check out its Club Oasis for a full array of cocktails and a 2 0-it em beer lis t, and enjo y dining on the oversize deck with r oom f or 140 o verlooking Plainview’s small lake. $ p f e SADDLE RIDGE S ALOON Fourth Str eet Liv e, 56 93507. $ p f e SAINT’S 131 Breckinridge Ln., 891-8883. Almos t like two r estaurants in one , Saints f eatures both a small, intimat e, candle-light ed r oom and a lar ger, happily bois terous main r oom with the look and feel of a sports bar. Saints is mostly about the bars and the music, but don’t o verlook its casual f are, from salads to pasta and excellent pizzas. $$ p e SPORTS PAGE GRILL 3701 Hopewell Rd., 263-7130 $ p e STEINERT’S GRILL & PUB 2 2 39 Charles town Rd., New Albany IN, 945-8827. This is a cross between an old f ashioned neighborhood ta vern (with an aged and cozy ambience) and a trendy sports bar.

Hearty burgers, rich soups, salads, and a full bar make this a hidden gem. $ p e SULLY’S SALOON Fourth Street Live, 585-4100. $$ p f TAILGATERS SPORT S BAR & GRILL 2 787 S. Flo yd St., 6 37-52 41. Billed as a pr emier des tination f or good food and lots of fun, this casual spot ne xt to Papa John’ s Stadium f eatures clas sic American favorites and seaf ood specialties, plus a full bar , TVs and an expansive game room. $ p f e

WINGS N THINGS 2809 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 327-9464. $ WOODFORD RESER VE BAR & GRILLE Louisville International Airport, 363-2526. Named after local distiller Br own-Forman’s artisanal br and of Bourbon, this is the airport ’s fine-dining f acility, serving K entucky-style dishes in a sit-do wn environment. $ ZAZOO’S 102 Bauer Ave., 894-8030. If you’re looking for casual dining, ZaZ oo’s offers a mighty appealing option with its laid-back and w elcoming neighborhood bar feeling. The fare is simple but well prepared, and goes a bit beyond pub grub. $ p f e

BLUEGRASS BREWING COMPANY 3929 Shelbyville Rd., 899- 7070, 6 36 E. Main St., 584-2 739, 2 Theater Squar e, 568-2 2 2 4. A mus t-stop destination f or beer lo vers on the national artisanal-brew tr ail, but it ’s mor e than jus t a brewpub. BBC’ s management giv es equally serious att ention t o both liquid and solid f are, making this a gr eat plac e t o s top in f or both dinner and a beer. $ p f e BROWNING’S BREWERY 401 E. Main St. (Slugger Field), 515-017 4. Making beautiful use of the historic r ed-brick building that houses Slugger Field, Browning’s offers first-rate brewpub beers and tas ty, inf ormal f are that r anges fr om pub grub to pastas, to pizza. $$ p f e CUMBERLAND BREW S 1576 Bar dstown Rd., 458872 7. Giving ne w meaning t o the t erm “microbrewery,” Cumberland Br ews ma y be one of the smalles t eat eries in t own. It ’s usually packed, earning its cr owds the old-f ashioned way b y pr oviding v ery good f ood, friendly service, and high-quality hand-cr afted artisan beers. $ f e RICH O’S PUBLIC HOUSE 3312 Plaza Dr., New Albany, IN, 94 9-2 804. Dec ent pizza and pub grub mak e Rich O’ s a popular hangout, and his r emarkable beer list of more than 100 selections fr om around the w orld—and locally br ewed cr aft beers— attracts beer lovers from all over. $ e

CAFÉ KILIMANJARO 649 S. F ourth St., 583-4332 .

Café Kilimanjar o sho wcases Black -heritage cuisine, offering well-prepared treats from Africa, the Caribbean and Black America r anging fr om fiery Ethiopian w ots (meat barbecue ) t o spicy Jamaican jerk cuisine to the comforting soul food of the American South. $ p f CHEZ SENEBA AFRICAN RESTAURANT 1215 Gilmore Ln., 968-865 9. Add yet another int eresting ethnic cuisine t o L ouisville’s incr easingly int ernational dining sc ene. Friendly f olks serv e gener ous portions of filling, spicy Senegalese cuisine fr om West Africa in this tiny (three-table) eatery. $ QUEEN OF SHEBA ETHIOPIAN 3315 Bardstown Rd., 459-6301. T he r egion’s only fully authentic Ethiopian r estaurant, off ering a wide selection of intriguing Ethiopian dishes, including a v ariety of vegetarian selections as well as the traditional beef and chicken specialities. Ethiopian fare is made for sharing and eating with the fingers, but the y’ll gladly make forks available for the finicky. $ TERANGA AFRICAN RES TAURANT 3904 Bar dstown Rd., 458- 7172 . T his bright and sunn y spot in www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Fall 2006 73

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Buechel houses v ery friendly f olks who’ll introduce y ou t o the culinary delights of W est Africa. The sparkling v enue is on the lo w-budget side, but wher e else in t own can y ou enjo y intriguing A frican dishes while w atching Senegalese music videos on sat ellite TV? $

#1 A SIAN BUFFET 12 50 Bardstown Rd., 451-60 33.

Not jus t another in the her d of all- you-can-eat Chinese buffets, this recent entry in the Mid-City Mall seats 350, boasts a private party room, and, says o wner St even Y uan, is the firs t betw eenthe-coasts outpos t of the original #1 buff et in NYC. $$ A TASTE OF CHINA 1167 S. Fourth St., 585-5582. $ ASIAN BUFFET 3813 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 945-1888, 1305 V eterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 2 85-8888, 3646 Mall Rd., 4 79-9989. C ompetent cookery and car eful management that ensur es buffet off erings s tay fr esh and hot mak es these buffets a good choic e among the growing crowd of all-you-can-eat Asian spots. $ p

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AUGUST MOON 2 2 69 L exington Rd., 456-656 9.

August Moon’ s secr et ingr edient is the culinary oversight of Chef Peng L ooi, better known as the force behind Asiatique. Housed in a soaring, open space with a Z en mas ter’s s tyle. C onsistent commitment in the kit chen and fr om the s taff makes it a t op spot f or Asian f are. A lo vely patio at the r ear aff ords an alfr esco dining e xperience overlooking shady Beargrass Creek. $$$ p f BAMBOO HOUSE 4036 Poplar L evel Rd., 451- 3113.

An old-timer among local Chinese restaurants, this Southeastern L ouisville spot ma y not off er the trendiest Asian f are, but it ’s a r eliable sour ce f or the familiar Cantonese-American standards. $ CHINA 1 123 Breckinridge Ln., 897-6511. $ CHINA BUFFET 706 E. Hwy 131, Clarksville, IN, 2888989. Chinese buffets are ubiquitous, but this one is squarely in the upper range. Regularly refreshed steam tables, att entively fried ric e, and pr operly spicy General Tso’s Chicken raise it above the runof-the-mill places typical of the genre. $ CHINA GARDEN 7309 Pr eston Hw y., 968-46 72 . A busy r estaurant with the double pleasur e of Chinese and American menu it ems. $

CHINA INN 1925 S. Fourth St., 636-2020. It’s not the posh, private Faculty Club, but this little Asian spot may be one of the mos t popular eat eries around the University of L ouisville’s Belknap Campus. It ’s generally packed with s tudents, professors, and a squadron of campus polic e so lar ge that one wonders who’s watching the campus. $ CHINA KING 3830 Ruckriegel Pkwy., 240-0500. $ CHINA KING Highlander Point Dr., Floyds Knobs, IN., 923-1288. $ CHINA SEA BUFFET 0838. $

12 689 Shelb yville Rd., 2

45-

CHINATOWN 4000 Dutchmans Ln., 896-9888, 4214 Outer L oop, 968-2 688. If y ou’re hungry, y ou can get mor e t o eat her e f or les s than jus t about anyplace else in t own, and the w eekend seaf ood buffet in particular is a deal that ’s hard to beat. $ CHINESE CHEF 2619 S. Fourth St., 634-0979. $ CHINESE EXPRESS 3228 Crums Ln., 448-1360. $ CHINESE RES TAURANT 8605 Pr eston Hw y., 9687450. $ CHONG GARDEN 10341 Dixie Hwy., 935-1628. $ CHOPSTICKS 416 E. Broadway, 589-9145. $ CHOPSTICKS HOUSE 2112 W. Broadway, 772-3231. $

tastefully exciting. casually chic.

CHUNG KING CHINESE AMERICAN RES TAURANT 110 E. Market St., 584-8880. $ CITY WOK 526 W. Main St., 583-7238. $ CRYSTAL CHINESE 3901 W. Market St., 776-9702. $ DOUBLE DRA GON 12 55 Gos s A ve., 6 35-5656, 318 Wallace Ave., 894-888 7. A s tandout among f astfood shopping-c enter Chinese eat eries, Double Dragon hits on all cylinders, turning out consistently well-prepared and flavorful fare. $ DOUBLE DRAGON II 12480 LaGrange Rd., 241-7766, 9901 LaGr ange Rd., 32 6-0099 , 6832 Bar dstown Rd., 231-3973, 3179 S. Second St., 367-6668. $ DOUBLE DRAGON 8 231 S. Fifth St., 58 7-8686. $ DOUBLE DRAGON 9 9501 Taylorsville Rd., 267-5353. $ DOUBLE DRAGON BUFFET 2 33 Whittington Pkwy., 339-8897. A sizable buff et in a chic Eas t End shopping s trip, off ers a good r ange of Chinese treats on its all- you-can-eat buffet. The fare seems prepared with attention and care. $ DRAGON GARDEN 2120 Bardstown Rd., 459-3311. $ DYNASTY BUFFET 2 400 Lime Kiln Ln., 339-8868.

The c ontinuing pr oliferation of look alik e, tas te alike, all-you-can-eat Chinese buffets never fails to amaze me. But I’m happ y to report that Dynas ty Buffet ranks well above the median. $$ EASTERN HOUSE 5372 Dixie Hw y., 568-2 688.

Serving Chinese and American f ood fr om the menu or the buffet. $ EGGROLL MACHINE 1216 Bardstown Rd., 459-1259.

A Highlands s taple for good r eason. This portion of the Mimosa Café does a brisk busines s. T he Sesame Chicken is one of our f avorites. $$ p EMPEROR OF CHINA 2210 Holiday Manor Shopping Center, 42 6- 1717. One of L ouisville’s f anciest and most not eworthy Chinese r estaurants, the Emperor’s quart ers ar e s tylishly s trewn acr oss multiple le vels of a f ormer suburban mo vie theater. Outstanding. $$ p EMPRESS OF CHINA 2249 Hikes Ln., 451-2500. Older sister to The Emperor of China, the Empr ess was one of L ouisville’s firs t serious, authentic upscale Cantonese restaurants, and its f are still stands up to fancy spots in New York’s Chinatown. $$ p FIRST WOK 3967 Seventh St. Rd., 448-0588. $ GOLDEN BUDDHA 8000 Preston Hwy., 968-7700. $ GOLDEN PALACE BUFFET 161 Outer Loop, 368-2868. $

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GOLDEN WALL 3201 Fern Valley Rd., 968-9717. $ GREAT WALL 2206 Brownsboro Rd., 891-8881. T his Clifton r estaurant r anks high up in the f ast-food Chinese pack. Offering steaming-hot, competently prepared and flavorful dishes. $ GREAT W OK 2 502 Pr eston Hw y., 6 34-1918. Jus t about every shopping c enter in t own has a f astfood Chinese spot, but this one s tands out, generating a buzz of w ord-of-mouth publicity about its well-crafted Chinese dishes at a bargainbasement price. $ HAPPY DRA GON 2 600 W . Br oadway, 77 8-2 573.

Catering to office and r esidential customers, this Chinese r estaurant has serv ed the W est Broadway community for many years. $ f HONG K ONG CHINESE RES TAURANT 345 Ne w Albany Plaza, New Albany, IN., 945-1818. $ HONG K ONG F AST FOOD 5312 S. T hird St., 36 7882 8. One of the man y int ernational eat eries in Iroquois Manor, this fast-food Chinese spot offers Cantonese s tandards hot and f ast and inexpensively. Check the daily specials f or an occasional intriguing item. $ JADE PALACE 1109 Herr Ln., 42 5-98 78. When I’v e got a hank ering f or brunch, I choose Chinese .

Jade Palace is a decent place for Chinese food at any time , but don’t mis s it at mid-da y Frida y through Monday, when it off ers the metr o area’s only dim sum (Chinese brunch) menu. $$ p

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dishes but, mor e important, because it sho ws a consistent commitment to quality. $ ONION RESTAURANT TEA HOUSE 4211 Charlestown Rd., Ne w Alban y, IN, 981-0188. Mas terful Chinese and Japanese cuisine (including magnific ent hotpots, donburi dishes, and w ooden-bucket steamed rice) set this airy restaurant apart from the horde of other Asian spots. $$ ORIENTAL HOUSE 4302 Shelb yville Rd., 89 7-1017.

One of the oldes t continuously operated Chinese restaurants in Louisville, this St. Matthews landmark moves up a not ch under ne w o wners, f eaturing both tr aditional Chinese- American and no w, authentic Cantonese. $ p ORIENTAL STAR 4212 Bishop Ln., 452-9898. A longtime area favorite in this hea vy traffic lunch ar ea.

This es tablishment is quit e good with L o Mein Noodles, and Sweet and Sour Chicken. $ PANDA CHINESE RES TAURANT 9543 US 42., 2286400. $ QUICK WOK 801 W. Broadway, 584-6519. $ ROYAL GARDEN 5717 Preston Hwy., 969-3788, 6801 Dixie Hw y., 9 37-042 8, 5316 Bar dstown Rd., 4 918228. $

SESAME CHINESE RES TAURANT 9409 Shelbyville Rd., 339-7000. Not jus t another shopping-c enter Chinese r estaurant, this Eas t End eat ery has provided some of the bes t fine-dining Chinese meals I’ve enjoyed in Louisville. $$ p SHAH’S MONGOLIAN GRILL Stonybrook Shopping Center, 4 93-02 34. T hirteenth C entury Mongol warriors used t o turn their s teel shields t o use as frying pans over the campfire, using their swords as spoons. Sahn”s carries their spirit f orward. This allyou-can-eat buffet is fun, and the food is fine. $$ p SHANGHAI RESTAURANT 526 S. Fifth St. 568-8833. $ SICHUAN GARDEN 9850 Linn Station Rd., 42 66767. One of m y f avorite Chinese r estaurants in Louisville and another that has s tood the t est of time, Sichuan G arden offers high-end Chinat own style and w ell-made dishes, plus a f ew T hai specialties to spice up the bill of f are. $ WOK EXPRES S 2 34 W. Br oadway, 583-8988. T his corner spot has housed a v ariety of r estaurants over the years. The latest tenant isn’t the fanciest, but it might be one of the mos t affordable. $ WONTON EXPRES S 3000 Hik es Ln., 45 2 -2 646.

Traditional Chinese f are. F amily-owned-and-

JASMINE 1382 3 English V illa Dr ., 2 44-8896. A charming Asian eat ery, wher e y ou can enjo y familiar Chinese-American plates or indulge y our more adv enturous side with a selection of mor e unusual authentic dishes fr om the “Chinese Menu,” available on request. $ f JUMBO BUFFET 2 731 S. Hurs tbourne Pk wy., 4 950028. Housed in a good-looking dining room, high on Chinatown-style glitz and glitt er, Jumbo off ers a s tandard all- you-can-eat Chinese buff et, with a larger-than-average selection of American dishes for those who want something less exotic. $$ KING BUFFET 1801 Priority Way, 266-8886. Another in the gr owing niche of glitzy Chinese chr omeand-plastic buffets, King Buff et offers a s tandard selection of all-you-can-eat dishes. $ KING WOK 291 N. Hubbards Ln., 899-7188. Another of the city’s many tiny shopping-center fast-food Chinese eateries, King W ok offers all the f amiliar standards plus a small lunch buff et. $ LIANG’S CAFÉ 3571 Springhurs t Blv d., 42 5-0188.

Roland Wong, formerly with Emperor of China, is taking over the Peking City spac e in Springhurs t with his Liang's Café at pr ess time , k eeping the Chinese fine-dining option open in the Eas t End suburbs. $ LING LING 10476 Shelbyville Rd., 245-2100. Modern and efficient in its Eas t End shopping c enter location, Ling Ling is a cut abo ve f ast-food Chinese; bett er y et, it adds a f ew V ietnamese dishes to the bill of f are. $ LIU’S GARDEN 11517 Shelb yville Rd., 2 44-9898.

Small but charming, with whit e tablecloths and soft Chinese music, f amily-run Liu’ s gains our approval with fr esh, c ompetent c ookery and courteous, friendly service that makes you feel like you’re visiting a Chinese family at their home. $$ LUCKY HOUSE BUFFET 4030 Taylorsville Rd., 4591188. A fr esh idea on Asian dining, this gener ous buffet serves the menu classics from China as well as some Japanese and American entrées. $$ MANCHU W OK 7900 Shelb yville Rd. ( Oxmoor Shopping Center), 429-8207. $ NEW W ORLD BUFFET 92 2 8 W estport Rd., 42 31788. I rate this one of the city’ s best (if not quit e the bigges t) all- you-can-eat Chinese buff et, not only because it offers a good selection of Chinese www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Fall 2006 75

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operated, this popular neighborhood es tablishment has enjo yed a s teady patr onage f or seventeen years. $

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to a r estaurant again, off ering upscale sushi, authentic wasyoku-style Japanese dining and, on weekends, hibachi-grilled fare. $$$

YANG KEE NOODLE 7900 Shelbyville Rd. (Oxmoor Center), 42 6-0800 . T his locally o wned and operated Oxmoor spot is c olorful and s tylish. It offers an intriguing arr ay of appealing noodle and rice dishes fr om all o ver Asia with f ast-food efficiency and pric es happily mat ched b y sitdown restaurant quality and style. $ f

FUJI J APANESE S TEAKHOUSE 3576 Springhurs t Blvd., 339-1978, 12 905 Shelb yville Rd., 2 53-00 36.

Part of the fun of sitting at the sushi bar is that you get t o w atch the chef at w ork. P ut in y our order, then sit back, sip y our t ea while the artis t creates edible delights. T his suburban sushi bar does the job well. $$ p

YEN CHING 1818 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-3581. $

ICHIBAN S AMURAI 1510 Lak e Shor e Ct., 4 12 -3339.

This lar ge Japanese-f armhouse building housed Benihana f or man y y ears. Ne w management offers similar delights, with the tr aditional slic eand-dice f ood sho w and good sushi. Bes t deal, while the off er lasts: All-you-can-eat sushi nightly until the karaoke starts at 9 p.m. $$$ p

YOU-CARRYOUT-A 1551 E. Tenth St., Jeff ersonville, IN, 2 88-8313, 82 7 Eas tern Blv d., Clarks ville, IN, 282-8881, 3308 Plaza Dr., 944-9866. $

SARI S ARI FILIPINO CUISINE 2 339 Fr ankfort Ave., 894-0585. L ourdes, the f ormer da y chef at El Mundo, and Pet e Chamberlain, El Mundo’ s founder, have split from the popular Mexican spot to open the city’s sole Filipino eatery on the same block of Fr ankfort, in the tin y s torefront briefly occupied b y Lazy Jane’ s. Y ou can sample y our way through the bold tropical flavors of this island cuisine on a budget, as e verything in the menu is well under $10. $

BENDOYA SUSHI BAR 2 17 S. Fifth St., 581-0 700.

Adding int ernational flair t o its do wntown neighborhood, Bendo ya Sushi Bar is a genuine , serious sushi bar in a s torefront jus t acr oss the street from the courthouse. $ EDOYA JAPANESE RESTAURANT 15206 Shelbyville Rd., 2 53-9 312 . T he lovely old f armhouse out pas t Middletown that was home to such admirable past tenants as Lanai and Trattoria Mattei is now home

KIMIS A SIAN BIS TRO 1915 Blank enbaker Pk wy., 2 36-1915. R estaurateur John Chung is amiable host at this ne w Eas t End v enture, an upscale Asian bistro that blends tr aditional Japanese fare with Chinese and K orean fla vors, including such Pacific Rim dishes as sushi, Chilean sea bas s with sweet mango and t orched salmon in par chment paper. $$ p KOBE S TEAK HOUSE 301 S. Indiana A ve., Jeffersonville IN, 2 80-8500 . Southern Indiana’ s first serious Japanese r estaurant is dr awing crowds with its e xceptional sushi bar, with skilled and friendly chefs who can be relied on to fashion fresh and tasty bites that are just about certain to please. $$$ p MAIDO ESSENTIAL JAPANESE 1758 Frankfort Ave., 894-8775. Not jus t another sushi bar , c ool and stylish Maido is L ouisville’s firs t and only “izakaya”-style r estaurant in the s tyle of K ansai, the r egion surr ounding Japan’ s sec ond city , Osaka. It’s also a sake bar, pouring a good variety of artisanal rice wine. $$ f

OSAKA SUSHI BAR 2039 Frankfort Ave., 894-9501.

This bright and cheery Japanese r estaurant and sushi bar is named after Japan’s second largest city.

Local sushi aficionados sa y it ’s los t a s tep sinc e the departure of founding chef James Lae, but it’s still a decent neighborhood Japanese spot. $$ RAW SUSHI L OUNGE 52 0 S. F ourth St., 585-5880 .

Raw mak es good use of hip quart ers in a glitzy renovation of the old Marmaduke Building (next to the Seelbach). Diners ma y choose fr om a br oad selection of c ompetent sushi and Japanese f air, plus fine int ernational seafood dishes at dinner , in a sophisticated lounge atmosphere. $$$ p f e SAKURA BL UE 4600 Shelb yville Rd., 89 7-3600.

Located in elegant, upscale quart ers in a St. Matthews shopping c enter, Sak ura Blue—dir ect descendant of the old, popular Bonsai—r anks among the city’s top sushi bars. $$ SAPPORO J APANESE GRILL & SUSHI 1706 Bardstown Rd., 4 79-5550. T rendy, e ven glitzy , with har d-edged indus trial dec or—and mos t important, e xcellent f ood—Sapporo r anks in m y ratings as the city’ s No . 1 spot f or sushi and Japanese fare. $$$ p SHOGUN J APANESE S TEAK HOUSE 9026 Taylorsville Rd., 4 99-5700, 4 110 Hampt on Lak e Way, 394-0123. Shogun’s decor is attractive, and quality f ood and servic e mak e it a pleasant dining des tination. It ’s unthr eatening enough t o appeal t o those who find e xotic cuisine “challenging,” but good enough t o satisfy jus t about anyone who craves a Japanese dinner or a bite of sushi. $$$ p TOKYO JAPANESE RESTAURANT 2415C Lime Kiln Ln., 339- 7171. It ’s appealing, pleasant in atmosphere and friendly in service, and most important, this East End sushi bar serv es excellent Japanese treats, pr epared with car e and flair fr om highquality, impeccably fresh ingredients. $$ TRAN’S JAPANESE STEAK HOUSE 4317 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 94 1-02 00. Southern Indiana is catching up with the L ouisville side of the Ohio in its selection of Japanese r estaurants, and Tran offers yet another estimable Hoosier option. Tran permits the mor e adv enturous diner t o e xperiment with the jo ys of sushi, while mor e cautious eaters can s tick with t empura or enjo y the slic eand-dice show at the Japanese grill. $$

ARIRANG 12 567 Shelb yville Rd., 2 44-9838. F or many y ears a hidden je wel in the Buechel ar ea, this fine K orean r estaurant-plus-sushi-bar reopened r ecently in the f ormer quart ers of Oriental Express in the Middletown area. $ p KIM’S A SIAN GRILLE 813 E. Mark et St., 595- 702 5.

This lo vable little K orean and P an-Asian eat ery occupies unimposing quart ers on a gritty urban block eas t of do wntown. Despit e its do wnscale look, y ou w on’t w ant t o mis s its e xtensive selection of K orean and Japanese f avorites. Hot and sour soup may be the city’s best. $$ f KOREANA II 5009 Preston Hwy., 968-9686. One of the city’ s f ew r estaurants de voted entir ely t o authentic Korean fare, Koreana is w orth a special trip f or this ethnic cuisine that off ers a hearty , spicy alternative to the more familiar Chinese. $$ LEE’S KOREAN RESTAURANT 1941 Bishop Ln., 4569714. T his little spot has been a secr et sinc e the ’70s, and it jus t k eeps on going. W alk int o what looks lik e a diner in an offic e building, but push past the c ounter t o the back r oom, wher e y ou’ll find gener ous heaps of r eally authentic K orean food for next to nothing. $$ PINK DOOR NOODLES & TEA L OUNGE 2222 Dundee Rd., 2 95-2 441. T his ne w spot r einvents the one-time home of Gibb’ s BBQ in an edgy , 76 Fall 2006 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

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high-tech Japanese s tyle, c omplete with a liv e video w all. L ook f or light er Asian f are, noodle dishes and sushi, along with a wide variety of teas, sakes and techno-Japanese cocktails. $ p

MAI’S THAI RES TAURANT 1411 E. T enth St., Jeffersonville, IN, 282-0198. With a broad range of well-prepared and authentic T hai dishes, Mai’ s is the eat ery t o beat among the metr o ar ea’s T hai restaurants. For both authenticity and quality , it ’s right up there with the top Thai places I’ve enjoyed in New York, San Francisco and Seattle. $ SALA THAI 9114 T aylorsville Rd. (St ony Br ook Shopping Center), 493-3944. Fine and fancy, Sala Thai off ers L ouisville an upscale T hai alt ernative, presenting ethnic f are in a s tylish setting that places it among the bes t, and c ertainly the mos t upscale, of the city’s cadre of Thai eateries. $$ p SIMPLY THAI 318 W allace A ve., 899-96 70. Owner Mahn Saing is Burmese; his wif e, a clas sically trained chef , is T hai. T hey’ve beautifully made over this little St. Matthe ws spot, off ering a small menu of tr aditional T hai dishes, w ell-made sushi and a few upscale Thai-style “fusion” dinner items. $f THAI CAFÉ 2 2 2 6 Holida y Manor , 42 5-4815. Y ou’ll find this small café tuck ed int o a c orner of the “Holiday Manor W alk.” Owner Cha vantee Sno w and her f amily off er a small but w ell-prepared selection of authentic T hai dishes at v ery reasonable prices. $ THAI SIAM 3002 Bar dstown Rd., 458-68 71.

Louisville’s first Thai restaurant, this Gardiner Lane spot has built a lo yal audienc e o ver the y ears, perhaps r esponding t o its r egular visit ors’ preferences with f ood that ’s a bit on the tame side for Thai. $$

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subtlety and flavor. I have yet to be disappointed with the quality of the f ood or service. $ ZEN GARDEN 2 2 40 Fr ankfort A ve., 895-9114. A vegetarian restaurant must pass one simple t est: at the end of the meal, I mus t not miss meat. Zen Garden pas ses this t est with flying w ok and chopsticks. $ f

BEHAR CAFÉ 5600 National T urnpike, 368-5658.

This shopping-c enter s torefront has bec ome a popular aft er-work gathering spot f or the city’ s growing c ommunity of immigr ants fr om Bosnia, for whom it ’s a c omfortable place to get a drink, a sausage, and feel at home. $ BOSAN-MAK 382 5 Old Bar dstown Rd., 456- 1919.

Friendly and e xceptionally hospitable , f amilyowned BosnaMak c elebrates the heritage of the owners and chefs in Bosnia and Macedonia in the Balkans and picks up a f ew culinary additions from their time in German y. $ f DJULI 5312 S. T hird St., 368-5199 . Bosnian f are is the specialty in this tin y spot in the incr easingly international culinary smor gasbord at Ir oquois Manor shopping center. Bosnian immigrants appear to be the primary clientele, but everyone’s welcome to discover this hearty Yugoslavian cuisine. $

ERIKA’S GERMAN RESTAURANT 9301 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy. 4 99-882 2 . F or a city with a s trong German heritage, L ouisville is w oefully short on authentic German r estaurants, but this genuinely Germanic eatery attracts hungry crowds to Hurstbourne. Take care not to miss its former fast-food quarters just off I-64 local access ramp. $$

GASTHAUS 4812 Brownsboro Center, 899-7177. The Greipel f amily c omes s traight fr om Ba varia t o Eastern Louisville with Gasthaus, a destination for local lovers of Germanic f are. T he setting has as authentic a f eeling as the hearty and delicious German dishes here. $$$

BRENDAN’S 3921 Shelbyville Rd., 895-1212. For many years the home of the venerable Maier’s Tavern in St. Matthe ws, ne w o wners Tom O’Shea (also of Flannigan’s and O’Shea’ s in the Highlands ) has done a gr eat job of r e-imagining this Eas t End landmark with a new, upscale feel, more gourmetstyle dining options and an in viting bar. $$ p e IRISH ROVER 2319 Frankfort Ave., 899-3544, 117 E. Main St, LaGr ange, 2 2 2 -2 2 86. A w arm and welcoming pub with an authentic Irish accent, this is a delightful plac e for a tall glas s of Guinnes s, a snack and a bit of Irish music. I r ecommend the fish and chips. $ p f MOLLY MAL ONE’S 933 Baxt er A ve., 4 73-12 2 2 . A carefully c onstructed r eplica of a modern urban Irish pub, Molly Malone’s is worthy addition to the city’s eating and drinking sc ene, as authentically Irish as the Wearin’ o’ the Green. $$ p f e O’SHEA’S TRADITIONAL IRISH PUB 956 Baxt er Ave., 589-7373. A steady schedule of music, and an as sortment of beers ma y be tr aditionally Irish, but the food here is mainstream American pub grub, from the chees y fries t o the Rueben sandwich. $$ p f e SHENANIGAN’S IRISH GRILL 1611 Norris Pl., 4543919. Not just a neighborhood tavern (although it’s a fine neighborhood ta vern), Irish-ac cented Shenanigan’s goes an extra step with an estimable selection of memorable burgers. $ p f e

THAI SMILE 5 5800 Preston Hwy., 961-9018. The “5” represents the number of r estaurants in this Frankfort-based mini-chain, which has r estaurants in K entucky, Tennessee and Indiana. T he “Smile” represents my reaction to its simple but very well prepared T hai f are. Don’t ask f or the fiv e-chilepepper heat unless you really mean it! $ THAI TASTE 1977 Br ownsboro Rd., 89 7-7682 . T he owner-host of this friendly , casual spot in Crescent Hill had a r estaurant in Bangk ok before moving t o L ouisville, and his e xperience sho ws.

The w armth of his w elcome—and the quality of the food—make Thai Taste special. $

ANNIE CAFÉ 308 W. Woodlawn, 36 3-4847. Annie Café r anks not jus t as one of m y f avorite Vietnamese restaurants, but one the city’s best of any variety, particularly when v alue and pric e are taken into account. Authentic Vietnamese food is made with care and served with pride. $ CAFÉ MIMOS A 12 16 Bar dstown Rd., 458-2 2 33.

Dating back t o the ‘80s as the city’ s first serious restaurant in the Fr ench-Vietnamese tradition, its current management s till offers a short selection of good Vietnamese food plus Chinese-American fare, as w ell as one of the city’ s more interesting sushi bars. $ p LEMONGRASS CAFÉ 1019 Bardstown Rd., 238-3981, 11606 Shelb yville Rd., 2 44-7110, 106 F airfax A ve., 893-7757. L emongrass Café off ers an appealing blend of V ietnamese, T hai and Chinese f are in a simple setting that tr anscends an ob viously lo w budget with style and grace. $ VIETNAM KIT CHEN 5339 Mitscher A ve., 36 3-5154.

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firm. Bright and nois y, it offers well-made if basic Italian family fare and dishes it out for surprisingly low prices. $$ p AMICI´ 316 Ormsby Ave., 637-3167. This history-steeped redbrick Old L ouisville building is t oo pr etty t o stay v acant f or long. F ollowing the closing of Central P ark Café and 316 Ormsb y, Shar on and Scott Risinger , o wners of BBC on F ourth and former owners of Third Avenue Café, now preside over this in viting new Italian eat ery that brings a touch of Tuscany to Old Louisville. $$ p f ANGELINA’S CAFÉ 1701 UPS Dr ., 32 6-5555. Y ou don’t ha ve t o be an Italian gr andfather t o pla y bocce, now that ther e are several venues around town f or this amiable game . T he six -court suburban Gotcha Bocce, run by sportscaster Bob Valvano, also houses this casual all-Italian eat ery, with dishes based on Bob’s family recipes. $ BUCA DI BEPPO 2 051 S. Hurs tbourne Pk wy., 4 932426. Buca di Beppo’s recipe has all the necessary ingredients: huge portions of excellent food served with flair and the Buca sc ene is fun, a c onscious parody of the e xuberant dec or of f amily ItalianAmerican restaurants of the 1950s. $$ p BURKO’S NEW Y ORK 2 781 Jeff erson C enter W ay, Jeffersonville, IN, (812) 284-0043. Curt Burk o, the Brooklyn nativ e who s tarted Southern Indiana’ s popular New York Capri Pizza has left that venture and now operates this ne w spot in Jeff ersonville.

Excellent pizza, pas ta and other Italian- American dishes are made fresh to order $$ f CARRABBA’S ITALIAN GRILL 617 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 412-2218. Carrabba’s isn’t y our ordinary suburban shopping-center fr anchise eat ery. T his plac e dramatically exceeds expectations. From warmed bread dishes with quality oliv e oil t o firs t-rate Italian-American fare at reasonable prices. $$ p f COME BACK INN 909 Swan St., 627-1777, 415 Spring St., Jeff ersonville IN, 2 85- 1777. W ith both its branches located in urban neighborhoods, C ome Back Inn looks pr etty much lik e an y other neighborhood saloon. But unlik e mos t L ouisville neighborhood saloons, this one houses a f amily Italian spot that w ouldn’t be out of plac e in Chicago or Brooklyn. $ p FERD GRISANTI 10212 Taylorsville Rd., 267-0050. An East End landmark f or 30 y ears, Ferd Grisanti’s is as comfortable as a close friend’ s home. Friendly and unpr etentious hospitality , the quiet but not staid atmospher e, and the fine Italian f ood prompts the c omment, “T hey do e verything so well, and they make it look so easy.” $$$ p LA GALL O ROS SO BIS TRO 132 5 Bar dstown Rd., 473-0015. This small but attractive Highlands spot in the Shoppes on the Alle y, f ormerly home t o Butterfly G arden (which mo ved nearb y), is no w back in busines s with a casual Italian and Continental theme. $$ f LUIGI’S 702 W. Main St., 589-0005. If y ou think one pizza is pretty much like another, you may not have sampled Ne w Y ork City -style pizza, a tr eat that you’ll find on jus t about e very s treet c orner ther e, but only Luigi’s offers in its authentic form here. $ MARTINI ITALIAN BISTRO 4021 Summit Plaza Dr., 3949797. T he American-ac cented Italian f are at this Ohio-based chain might be a little closer to Bayonne, New Jersey than Florence, but it ’s good, featuring a short but div erse selection of hearty pas tas, pizzas and Italian-style entrées. Martini’s quality has quickly built a loyal crowd of regulars. $$ p f MELILLO’S 82 9 E. Mark et St., 540-99 75. Adjacent t o the locally o wned and oper ated Felice Vineyards on Eas t Mark et, Melillo’ s off ers hearty and delicious home-s tyle Italian- American f are—and you can enjoy it with a glas s of vino. $ p f OLD SPAGHETTI FACTORY 235 W. Market St., 5811070. One of the original v entures of this national 78 Fall 2006 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

THE OLIVE GARDEN 1320 Hurstbourne Pkwy., 3397190, 12 30 V eterans Pk wy., Clarks ville, IN, 2 188304. T he t op pr operty of the Orlando-based Darden chain, Oliv e G arden now operates more than 500 pr operties and bills itself as the leading Italian r estaurant in the casual dining industry. Hearty pastas of all shapes and sauces, appetizers and c ombo platt ers all carry the Italian theme. $$ p PESTO’S IT ALIAN RES TAURANT 566 S. Fifth St., 584-0567. Offic es f or blocks ar ound empty int o this bus tling Italian eat ery f or w eekday lunches featuring hearty platt ers of lasagna, z esty salads, red wine and ic ed tea. On Satur days, the kit chen switches over to a special Persian menu. $ PORCINI 2 730 Fr ankfort A ve., 894-8686. An expanded dining room and a stylish alfresco patio facing busy Frankfort Ave. make Porcini’s an even more popular des tination, a plac e t o see and be seen—and, while y ou’re at it, enjo y a drink and a decent Italian-American dinner. $$$ p PRIMO 445 E. Market St., 583-1808. Restaurateur Bim Deitrich has been a leader in the city’ s restaurant scene since the 1970s, and this eff ort may be his best y et. W ell-crafted Italian specialties r ange from pizzas and pasta to steak Florentine, with a fine, all-Italian wine lis t t o go along; all serv ed with panache in sleek quart ers dominat ed b y a towering white-tile pizza oven. $$$ p f RAY PARRELLA’S ITALIAN CUISINE 2311 Frankfort Ave., 899-55 75. Old-f ashioned Italian- American family fare is served up with a w arm and casual welcome at Ray Parella’s, the latest venture of a family that ’s been pleasing locals f or a generation. $ f ROCKY’S IT ALIAN GRILL 715 W . Riv erside Dr ., Jeffersonville IN, 2 82 - 3844, 10 2 06 W estport Rd., 339-0808. Now with a second location in Louisville, this longtime Southern Indiana f avorite earns its popularity with fine pizzas, a good selection of bottled beers and a select choic e of ItalianAmerican entrées, with a great view of the city from its riverside location. $ p f ROMANO’S MA CARONI GRILL 401 S. Hurs tbourne Pkwy., 42 3-9 2 2 0. T he Italian-s tyle menu at this casual, Dallas-based f amily chain includes appetizers, salads, pastas, veal and desserts. Chefs entertain while creating wood-fired pizzas. $$ p SPAGHETTI SHOP 4657 Out er L oop, 96 9-5545, 2 669 Charles town Rd., Ne w Alban y, IN, 9445400. Bak ed pas ta dishes, subs, salads and appetizers are prepared while you wait. $ STEVE-O’S IT ALIAN KIT CHEN 42 05 W . Hw y. 146, LaGrange, KY, 222-0300. Outstanding pizzas and fine family-style Italian-American dishes make this casual eatery just off I-71 at Buckner w ell worth a special trip out from the city. $ STRATTO’S 318 W. L ewis & Clark Pk wy., Clarks ville, IN, 945- 3496. Sam Anderson—kno wn t o locals from his Sam’s Food & Spirits—offers a full dinner menu with ac cents from all Italy’ s regions, plus a good wine lis t to match. Stratto’s expanded 140seat patio is a popular place on summer evenings. $$ p f e VOLARE 2300 Frankfort Ave., 894-4446. The name evokes Sinatr a, pas ta with t omato sauc e and candles in Chianti bottles, but stylish Volare kicks that image up a not ch. Chef Dallas McG arity and host Majid Ghavami are working hard to position Volare as the city’ s t op spot f or sua ve Italian dining. $$$ p f WILLIE’S ITALIAN 8533 Terry Rd., 933-1080. $

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informal and v ery aff ordable, with all dishes priced at $5. W e’re talking about serious Louisiana Cr eole and Cajun c ookery, dispensed with a friendly Ne w Orleans ac cent amid downscale Mardi Gras colors. $ f

DE LA T ORRE’S 1606 Bar dstown Rd., 456-4 955.

From C entral Spain, authentic Cas tilian f ood ranging from tapas t o a memor able paella mak e this Highlands s tandby a unique e xperience reminiscent of dining on a squar e in Madrid. $$$

JOE’S OK BAYOU 9874 Linn Station Rd., 426- 1320, 4308 Charles town Rd., Ne w Alban y, IN, 9482 080. Fine , filling and authentic L ouisiana-style fare is the dr aw at Joe’ s. A length y menu and bayou fishing-shack dec or sho wcases authentic Cajun and Creole chow. $$ p

LA BODEGA 1604 Bar dstown Rd., 456-4 955. Ne xtdoor t o the e xcellent De La T orre’s Spanish restaurant, La Bodega off ers diners the city’s most authentic Spanish-s tyle tapas bar , f eaturing the small bites originally invented in the out door cafés of Jerez. $$ p f PALERMO VIEJO 1359 Bar dstown Rd., 456-646 1.

This eatery’s name may sound Italian, but is, in fact, Louisville’s only sour ce of Ar gentinian cuisine .

Steaks sear ed on authentic parrillada char coal grills ar e a primary dr aw, but ther e’s e xcellent chicken, seafood and much more. $$ p f

BAHAMA BREEZE 104 Oxmoor C ourt, 423-9040.

It’s a long w ay fr om Oxmoor C enter t o the Florida K eys, but this chain-oper ated eat ery does a good job of bridging the gap , offering a happy beach-joint experience without the ocean view. Bahama Breeze is stylish and upscale, with a good selection of island f are and a gr eat bar. $$ p f e

INDIA PALACE 9424 Shelbyville Rd., 394-0490. This longtime local Indian r estaurant, originally on Bardstown R oad and no w housed in this e xoticlooking East End building that has housed a s tring of well-known eateries, is a contender for the city’s top Indian spot. T he expansive lunch buffet is well handled and a particularly good v alue. $$ f

HAVANA RUMBA 4115 Oechsli Ave., 897-1959 A true taste of Old Ha vana. Hos ts F ernando & Chris tina Martinez and Mar cos L orenzo pr eside o ver this bright, in viting Cuban r estaurant, r ecently renovated t o double its dining spac e and add a hopping mojit o bar. Bountiful servings of Cuban fare as good as I’ve enjoyed in Key West or Miami have earned Ha vana Rumba a plac e on m y short list of local f avorites. No w with an e xpanded menu, there is even more to love. $ p f

KASHMIR INDIAN RES TAURANT 12 85 Bar dstown Rd., 4 73-8765. One of the city’ s mos t popular Indian restaurants, Kashmir is casual, neither posh nor expensive, and it produces an extensive menu of seemingly authentic Indian f are. $$ f SHALIMAR INDIAN RES TAURANT 182 0 S. Hurstbourne Pk wy., 4 93-8899. Modern and sleek in appearance, modest in price, this restaurant has become the patriar ch of local Indian r estaurants.

With a substantial lunch buffet and a full r ange of dinner items, it has built a lo yal clientele. $ p

AL WATA N 3713 Klondik e Ln., 454-4406. Clas sic Arabic dishes home-cooked by friendly people in a cozy environment. That’s the recipe that makes Al Watan a des tination f or lo vers of fine Middle Eastern fare. $ CAFÉ 360 1582 Bar dstown Rd., 4 73-8694. T he latest in a long series of eat eries in this pleasant Highland’s building off ers an eclectic and international menu, with Southern fried catfish and Indian lamb biry ani in immediat e juxtaposition. You can get it all, diner-s tyle, jus t about 24/7. $ p f JERUSALEM MEDITERRANEAN CAFÉ 1907 S. Third St., 6 35-6767. L ocated jus t off the University of L ouisville’s Belknap Campus, Jerusalem Café speaks Middle Eas tern with a Palestinian ac cent and v ends e xceptionally fine ethnic fare. It adds an exotic hint of the Levant to the storefront space that used to house a branch of City Café. $ f MARRAKECH 1001 Bardstown Rd., 454-4407. This tiny new Highlands spot is strategically situated to offer quick and aff ordable sustenance along the Bar dstown-Baxter ent ertainment s trip. In addition t o the usual Middle Eas tern goodies, look f or a f ew intriguing Mor occan dishes including occasional tagines. $ GRAPE LEAF 2 2 17 Fr ankfort A ve., 89 7-1774. Y et another Middle Eas tern eat ery, y et another good ine xpensive sour ce of f ood on Fr ankfort Avenue. $ f OMAR’S GYRO 969 Baxter Ave., 454-4888. $

TASTE OF J AMAICA 2 017 Br ownsboro Rd., 8961055. This stylish space in Clifton has a new ethnic flavor, thanks to co-owner Warren Glave, who has returned authentic Jamaican cuisine t o a city t oo long starved for a taste of jerk chicken, curry goat and other such Caribbean goodies. $

PITA DELIGHT S 1616 Grins tead Dr., 56 9-112 2 . T his Near Eas tern eat ery in the Highlands off ers a splendid mix of gyr os, f elafel and other pitabased goodies. $ f SAFFRON’S 131 W . Mark et St., 584- 7800. Owner Majid Ghavami has ele vated this Persian (Ir anian) restaurant f ar be yond a mer e ethnic eat ery.

Stylish dec or, an intriguingly e xotic menu, and a level of car eful, pr ofessional servic e w orthy of a white-tablecloth dining room. Saffron’s has added a satellite operation, SAFFRON’S BUFFET, 558 S. Fifth St., 58 7-8679, where you can enjo y Persian delicacies on a quick, aff ordable all- you-can-eat lunch-only buffet. $$$ p SAFIER MEDITERRANEAN DELI 641 S. F ourth St., 585-112 5. You can get s tandard American f are at this w elcoming do wntown quick -eats spot, but who’d do that when y ou can enjo y such appetizing Arabian delights as hummus, mutabal, falafels and the gyros-like (only better) shawarma beef-on-pita sandwich. $ f SHIRAZ MEDITERRANEAN GRILL 2 011 Fr ankfort Ave., 891-8854. Offers some of the most authentic Persian (Ir anian) c ooking y ou’ll find an ywhere, Shiraz has grown out of its tiny original location to occupy a bright and colorful storefront in the new Clifton Lofts complex; it s till shines with its chargrilled k ebabs, fine pitas and cr acker-like la vash bread and adds a wider v ariety of Persian delights. $

CAJUN KITCHEN 4645 Outer Loop, 964-5200. $ GUMBO A GO-GO 2 109 Frankfort Ave., 896-4046, 10004 Taylorsville Rd., 261-7986. This small eatery that sits w ell back fr om Fr ankfort Ave. gained a sparkling new personality that out guns a c ouple of lacklus ter predecessors in the spac e. Casually

BAZO’S FRESH MEXICAN GRILL 323 Wallace Ave., 899-9600. Baz o’s Fr esh Me xican Grill is an inexpensive, casual spot where you’ll find the best fish tacos this side of San Diego as the highlight of its simple fast-food Mexican fare. $ f CANCUN MEXICAN RES TAURANT 9904 Linn Station Rd., 327-0890. $ e DON PABLOS MEXICAN KIT CHEN 940 E. L ewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 284-1071. Born in North Texas and no w based in A tlanta, this Me xicanAmerican chain, off ers full bar servic e and a variety of dishes that r ange fr om sizzling f ajitas with portabello mushr oom, beef or chick en t o crisp salads tossed in a fajita shell. $$ p EL CAPORAL 7319 Pr eston Hw y., 96 9-9693, 2 2 09 Meadow Dr ., 4 73-7840, 1901 Blank enbaker Pk wy., 515 E. High way 131, Clarks ville, IN, 2 82 - 7174.

Louisville’s growing Mexican-American community has f ostered a happ y tr end: e xcellent, authentic Mexican food. El Caporal bridges the gap between the Latino and Anglo communities. $ p EL MUNDO 2 345 Fr ankfort A ve., 899-99 30. T his crowded, noisy little Cr escent Hill s torefront offers creative r enditions of Me xican r egional specialties that mak e mos t diners w ant t o y ell “Olé!” T he setting ma y lack the tr endy flair of Rick Ba yless’s Frontera Grill in Chicago , but the f are mines a similar vein and does so nearly as w ell. $ p f EL NOP AL 9473 W estport Rd., 32 7-6551, 11336 Preston Hwy., 961-9851, 10500 Watterson Tr., 2665956, 5444 Ne w Cut Rd., 380-844 7. As sociated with the same f amily that runs the smaller El Nopalito, ( or “ the little cactus”), El Nopal (“ the cactus”) off ers similar delicious, authentic and inexpensive Mexican fare in somewhat larger and more comfortable surroundings. $ p f EL NOP ALITO 402 8 T aylorsville Rd., 458- 72 78, 6300 Bardstown Rd., 231-42 49, 2319 Brownsboro www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Fall 2006 79

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Rd., 89 3-9880. T his modes t little eat ery used t o be a Taco Bell, but y ou’ll never find c omidas like this at the Bell! Run b y a f amily from Mexico, it ’s truly authentic and delicious. $ p f EL PASO 700 Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville, IN, 2 800032. Several Mexican restaurants have filled this expansive space in the Jeffersonville Ramada Inn; now El P aso offers a Tex-Mex option jus t off the riverfront. $ p f EL REY MEXICAN RES TAURANT 2 918 Hik es Ln., 454-652 0. Although it ’s more Mexican-American than har d-core ethnic Me xican, El R ey earns m y recommendation for tasty fare, cordial service in a pleasant f ast-Mexican-food en vironment, and affordable prices. $ f EL RODEO MEXICAN RES TAURANT 9070 Dixie Hwy., 995-8722. At El Rodeo, you’ll find a blend of Tex-Mex and other Latin American clas sics fr om salty margaritas to sweet sopapillas. $$

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LA ROSITA TAQUERIA 2535 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 948-0401, 1515 E. Mark et St., Ne w Albany, IN, 944- 362 0. One of m y f avorite authentic Mexican eateries in the metr o. Offering indoor and out door seating t o enjo y a short, affordable menu of firs t-rate Puebla-s tyle tac os and other excellent Mexican dishes. $ f LA TAPATIA RESTAURANT 8106 Preston Hwy., 9619153. One of the mos t authentic ethnic Me xican restaurants in Louisville, this little storefront offers memorable tacos and burritos and more. $ p LOLITA’S TACOS 42 2 2 Poplar L evel Rd., 459-4356.

This tiny place may look like a fast-food joint, but the f ood is about as authentic Me xican as y ou’ll find. Crisp or soft tac os and burrit os the siz e of paper-towel r olls turn a meal her e int o a r eal bargain. $ f

EL TARASCO 6100 Cr estwood Station, 2 41-2 32 0, 542 5 Ne w Cut Rd., 368-562 8, 110 F airfax A ve., 895-8010, 9901 LaGrange Rd., 326-9373. Add El Tarasco t o the happ y ne w genr e of r estaurants run b y Latinos and off ering authentic Me xican food and atmospher e, but that r each out t o Anglos and mak e it eas y t o enjo y a South-ofthe-Border culinary adv enture without compromise. $ EL TORO MEXICAN RESTAURANT 1810 Hurstbourne Parkway, 4 91-72 72 . One of the t op Me xican restaurants in the metro, El Toro earns my recommendation f or f ood, servic e and en vironment.

Tex-Mex dishes ar e fine , but sa ve r oom f or the authentic Mexican seafood specialties. $ p f ERNESTO’S 10602 Shelb yville Rd., 2 44-8889, 62 01 Dutchmans Ln., 89 3-92 97, 77 07 Pr eston Hw y., 962 -5380, 46 32 A S. Hurs tbourne Pk wy., 7 00 Riverside Dr ., Clarks ville, IN, 2 80-00 32 . One of the firs t of the mor e authentic locally -owned Mexican r estaurant gr oups, Ernes to’s r emains consistently reliable. From the crisp y home-fried chips t o filling Me xican main c ourses and tas ty desserts, it ’s a w orthy des tination f or good Mexican food and excellent value in an enjoyable atmosphere. $ p f e FIESTA TIME MEXICAN GRILL Dr., 425-9144. $ p

1132 0 Maple Br ook

HABANEROS 1415 Br oadway, Clarks ville, IN, 2 808555. T his lar ge, c olorful Me xican r estaurant is becoming a Southern Indiana des tination because they do just about everything right, from excellent f ood, of c ourse, t o c old, o versize margaritas and delicious guacamole made fr esh for you at tableside. $ p f e

LOS AZTECAS “The Best Mexican Food & Margaritas in Louisville” 530 WEST MAIN

502.561.8535 Mon.-Thur. 11am-10pm • Fri. 11am-11pm Sat. Noon-11pm • Sun. Noon-9pm

www.losaztecas.net

LA HERRADURA 615 Eas tern Blv d., Clarks ville, IN., 2 80-8650. Is it pos sible t o enjo y truly authentic tacqueria cuisine when the management speaks mostly Spanish and y ou speak only English ?

These friendly f olks mak e it simple: a handy bilingual menu and a smiling s taff make you feel at home.$ LA MONARCA 6501 Shepherdsville Rd., 969-7938. $ LA PERLA DEL P ACIFICO 2 840 Goose Cr eek Rd., 339-7670. Y ou ma y w ant t o bring a Spanish phrase book to this East End spot, where English is sometimes t entative. It ’s w orth the eff ort though, f or e xcellent authentic Me xican seaf ood and fish dishes that go w ell be yond taqueria status. $$ 80 Fall 2006 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

PALAPA MEXICAN RES TAURANT & GRILL 2901 Brownsboro Rd., 896- 1599. T he Moorish-looking building that has housed a s tring of r estaurants now sports a bright ne w r ed, whit e and gr een paint job and a ne w tenant, Palapa, replacing the short-lived Marimba. T he la vish, aff ordable Mexican lunch buff et r emains, ho wever, and the south-of-the-border menu is fine. $$ p PUERTO V ALLARTA 42 14 Charles town Rd., Ne w Albany, IN, 945- 3588, 12 5 Quart ermaster Ct., Jeffersonville, IN, 288-2022. $$ p QDOBA MEXICAN GRILL 1500 Bardstown Rd., 4543380, 9 70 Br eckinridge Ln., 7 2 1-8100, 4059 Summit Plaza Driv e, 42 9-5151, 100 Da ventry Ln., 412 -62 02 , 860 2 Citadel W ay, 4 93-9606, 430 2 Charlestown Rd., Ne w Alban y IN, 94 1-9654. T his chain operation boasts five local outlets plus more in L exington and Fr ankfort. F ast-foodish in s tyle, Qdoba edges out its c ompetitors on the basis of variety and interesting salsas, plus sizable portions at a price you can afford. $ f ROSTICERIA LUNA 5213B Preston Hwy., 962-8898.

Tiny and cluttered and very friendly, this little spot on Pr eston looks lik e another tac queria but the specialty, Me xican-style r oasted chick en, tak es it to another le vel, juicy and suc culent and r oasted golden br own. Chick en simply doesn’t get an y better than this. $ RUBEN’S MEXICAN RES TAURANT 1370 V eterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN. 258-0417. $$ p SANTA FE GRILL 3000 S. T hird St., 6 34-3722. This tiny eat ery in a c entury-old red-brick South End storefront near Chur chill Do wns ne ver f ails t o satisfy with genuine Me xican tac os and other simple fare at pric es that will lea ve you plenty of change for an exacta bet at the races. $ SOL AZTECA S 2 42 7 Bar dstown R oad, 459- 7776.

Saul Garcia, who’s been associated with the local chain of L os Aztecas eateries and the short-liv ed Olmeca’s, brings his br and of authentic Me xican fare t o this Douglas s L oop location. F ans of L os Aztecas will find f amiliar food and mood her e in the same affordable price ranges. $ p TACQUERIA LA MEXICANA 62 01 Pr eston Hw y., 969-4449. T he tac os ar e fine at this tin y storefront, ne xt door t o a Latino gr ocery s tore.

This is seriously ethnic s tuff, but Anglos ar e thoroughly w elcome, the s taff is bilingual, and they will happily pr ovide a menu with all the English translations written in. $

KY T ACO 6911 Shepher dsville Rd., 962 -85 2 6.

Traditional Mexican fare from the Ramirez family. $ LA BAMBA 1237 Bardstown Rd., 451-1418. La Bamba boasts of its “burritos as big as your head.” It may be L ouisville’s mos t s tartling case of an eat ery that is more than it appears t o be, and that goes for both quality and quantity. Franchised and fastfoodish, it pleasantly surprises with genuine Mexican fare and Latino flair. $

Mexico T ipico has built a lo yal f ollowing in f or good Me xican f ood and friendly , fully bilingual service; now it reaches the East End with a brandnew property in the Middletown area. $ p e

TEQUILA MEXICAN RES TAURANT 7803 Old T hird Street Rd., 368-3591. $ LOS AZTECAS 530 W. Main St., 561-8535, 1107 Herr Ln., 42 6- 3994, 9606 T aylorsville Rd., 2 9 7-8003, 92 07 U .S. Hw y 42 , 2 2 8-2 450. A uthentic Mexican cuisine has bec ome a viable option in L ouisville, thanks to a gr owing immigrant community. With fresh bar and blender off erings, cr eative appetizers and c omfortable seating, L os Aztecas is one of the best, with tasty Mexican dishes good enough to lure us back again and again. $ p LOS INDIOS RES TAURANTE MEXICANO 2743 Charlestown Rd., Ne w Alban y, IN, 94 1-9770, 7 30 Highlander Point Dr., Floyds Knobs, IN, 9 23-2929.

“Why ha ve T ex-Mex when y ou can ha ve Me xMex?” is asked in fun on the serv ers’ T-shirts. This eatery is w ell worth the trip t o Southern Indiana for high-quality Mexican dishes. $ p MEXICAN FIESTA 5414 Bardstown Rd., 762-0840. $ MEXICO TIPIC O RES TAURANT 6517 Dixie Hw y., 933-9523, 12401 Shelbyville Rd., 645-8778. One of the r egion’s firs t authentic Me xican eat eries,

ALAMEDA 1381 Bar dstown Rd., 459-6 300. T his long-time Bardstown R oad f avorite off ers a familiar, c omfortable menu of South western favorites in an attr active casual-upscale dining room and inviting bar. $ p f MOE’S SOUTHWES T GRILL 2 001 S. Hurs tbourne Pkwy., 491-1800, 1001 Br eckinridge Ln., 89 3-6637, 12 001 Shelb yville Rd., 2 45-62 50, 10 2 0 V eterans Pkwy., Clarks ville, IN, (812 ) 2 88-66 37. T he f ood may be mor e f ast-food Me xican-American than authentic South-of-the-Bor der f are, but it is freshly made from quality ingredients and comes in oversize portions, and that’s not a bad thing. $ ON THE BORDER 10601 Fischer P ark Dr., 412-2461.

A c ontemporary spin on tr aditional f avorites offers a range of delights from the Ultimate Fajita to mar garitas in a setting that emulat es Old Mexico décor. $$ p f

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SALSARITA’S FRESH CANTINA 2 85 N. Hubbar ds Ln., 89 7-532 3. Another entry in the hot “Fr esh Mexican” niche that f eatures gigantic burrit os made t o or der. Its c olorful fr ee-standing building houses a sit-in restaurant and an inviting bar. $ f p TIJUANA FLATS BURRITO CO. 2420 Lime Kiln Ln. , 412 -6700, 3598 Springhurs t Blv d., 339-2 311.

Another entry in the growing niche of “fast casual Tex-Mex” eat eries, specializing in burrit os made from fresh ingredients while you wait. $$ TUMBLEWEED SOUTHWES T GRILL (17 locations ).

Tumbleweed, which s tarted as a humble Me xican restaurant in Ne w Alban y, e ventually came t o dominate L ouisville’s Tex-Mex niche with c olossal margaritas, gigantic burrit os and spicy chili c on queso. But what s tarted as a sideline , mesquit e grilled steaks, chops, and chicken, has become the main dr aw. T hese da ys, diners ar e mor e lik ely t o dig int o a grilled s teak and bak ed potat o than a burrito. With its Southwest focus, large and varied menu and added wine lis t, “The Weed” still draws diners in droves. $$ p f

ATOMIC SAUCER 1000 E. Oak St., 6 37-5399. $ BEAN STREET CAFÉ IUS Campus Library, 941-2699, Floyd Memorial Hospital, 94 9-7188, 101 Laf ollette Station, Floyds Knobs, IN, 300 3 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 944-6262. Bean Street introduced the Sunny Side to the joys of serious espresso. Like all good coffee shops, they’re not just eateries, but cultural hangouts. $ f BUFFALO MADISON COFFEE COMPANY 1203 River Road, 540- 1161, 7 01 Eas tern Blv d., Clarks ville, IN, 2 18-8559. T hese locally o wned c offee shops ar e fine plac es t o enjo y a c offee drink and a pas try.

The Riv er R oad pr operty shar es spac e with Tumbleweed in the city’ s beautiful and gr owing Riverfront Park, offering a splendid river view. $ f CAFFE CLASSICO 2144 Frankfort Ave., 894-9689. $ f CLEO’S C OFFEE AND MORE Caesars Indiana Casino, Elizabeth, IN, 888-766-2648. $ COFFEE CROSSING 4212 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 981-2633, 13825 English Villa Dr., 254-7040. $ COFFEE POT CAFÉ 234 E. Gray St. (Medical Tower South), 584-5282 $ f COFFEE TREAT CAFÉ 429 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 582-2408 $ DAY’S ESPRES SO AND C OFFEE BAR 1420 Bardstown Rd., 456- 1170. Dark and c ozy, with an old-fashioned f eeling, Da y’s has e verything y ou would e xpect in a c ollege-neighborhood c offee shop except a college near by. $ f DBL SHOTZ 1315 Spring St., Jeff ersonville, IN, 2 82 7000. $ EXPRESSIONS OF Y OU 1800A W. Muhammad Ali, 584-6886. $ f e HEINE BROTHERS COFFEE 2714 Frankfort Ave., 8995551, 1295 Longest Ave., 456-5108, 2200 Bardstown Rd., 515-0 380, 118 Cheno weth Ln., 89 3-5103.

Spartan, friendly and aff ordable, with good c offee roasted on the premises and a short lis t of pastries, desserts and panini sandwiches, Heine Br os. has earned its outstanding local reputation. $ f e HIGHLAND C OFFEE C O. 1140 Bar dstown Rd., 4514545, 62 7 S. F ourth St., 540-9909 . Off ering tw o ways t o get wir ed, this c ozy neighborhood c offee shop also functions as one of L ouisville’s t op Internet cafés, wher e y ou can enjo y a hot cappuccino while y ou surf the ‘net in a W iFi hot spot. Funky Seattle-style ambience is a plus. $ f THE HOBKNOBB RO ASTING C O. 3700 P aoli Pik e, Floyds Knobs, IN, 9 2 3-1458. HobKnobb off ers fresh hot coffee, espresso drinks and fresh baked pastries, cakes and cookies. $ f

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JAVA BREWING COMPANY 9561B US Hwy 42, 2922 710, 516 W . Main St., 568-6 339, 135 S. English Station Rd., 489-56 77, F ourth Str eet Liv e, 56 12 041, 2 309 Fr ankfort A ve., 894-8060 . T hese casual spots boas ts the ambienc e of a friendly old-fashioned book shop , with c omfortable seating, a good selection of pas tries, and quality coffee from Seattle. $ JOE MUGGS 994 Breckenridge Ln. (Books-a-Million), 894-8606, 4300 Towne Center Dr., 426-2252. $ f LOGOS C OFFEE HOUSE 2272. $ f

2 2 50 Fr ankfort A ve., 89 7-

MASTER’S INTERNA TIONAL C Bardstown Rd., 495-6484. $ f

OFFEE

4806

OLD LOUISVILLE COFFEE HOUSE 1489 S. Fourth St., 635-6660. $ f PERKFECTION 359 Spring St., Jeff ersonville, IN, 2180611. $ e SISTER BEAN’S 4956 Manslick Rd., 364-0082. $ f STARBUCKS COFFEE (27 locations) $ f SUNERGOS COFFEE & MICRO-RO ASTERY 2 12 2 S. Preston St., 634-1243. Matthew Huested and Brian Miller used t o r oast their o wn c offee beans as a hobby. Their friends said the y did it so w ell, they should turn pr o—the result is Suner gos C offee, another in the gr owing cadre of espr esso bars in Louisville’s Germantown neighborhood. $

Call 452-1210

THE BAKER Y 3100 Bar dstown Rd., 45 2 -12 10. Not just a fine bakery but a place where bakers learn their busines s, this e xcellent es tablishment is part of the culinary pr ogram at Sulliv an University. A r ecent renovation adds a t ouch of European s tyle. T he deli option is no mor e, but you can’t beat the quality br eads and pas tries offered here to eat in or carry out. $ BREADWORKS 362 8 Br ownsboro Rd., 89 3-32 00, 2420 Lime Kiln Ln., 326-0 300, 2204 Dundee Rd., 452-1510, 11800 Shelbyville Rd., 254-2885. $ COCO’S BAKERY 6915 Southside Drive, 368-9280. $ DESSERTS BY HELEN 2210 Bardstown Rd., 451-7151, 92 19 US Hw y. 42 , 2 2 8-8959 . Helen Friedman has earned a lo yal client ele sinc e the 19 70s with her elegant cak es, t empting pies and t ortes and designer cookies. $ HEITZMAN TRADITIONAL BAKER Y & DELI 9426 Shelbyville Rd., 426- 7736, 428 W. Market St., 5842437. The Heitzman f amily has been baking in the Louisville ar ea sinc e y our gr eat-aunt w as a girl ordering dinner r olls. Made fr esh daily , the pies, cakes, cookies and specialty pas tries provide tasty nostalgia for all who visit. $ MY FAVORITE MUFFIN 3934 Taylorsville Rd., 4850518, 9800 Shelb yville Rd., 42 6-9645. All the muffins are made right in the store, including such popular choices as the Cinnamon Crumb and the Turtle Muffin. $ PLEHN’S BAKERY 3940 Shelbyville Rd., 896-4438.

A neighborhood institution, this bakery is as busy as it is nos talgic. Enjo y the homet own soda fountain with ic e cr eam while y ou w ait f or y our hand-decorated birthda y cak e, br eakfast r olls or colorful cookies to be boxed. $ SWEET SURRENDER 1416 Bardstown Rd., 458-6 363.

Some of the city’ s bes t des serts and pas tries ar e available at this firs t-rate pas try shop . Now under new management, it hasn’t mis sed a s tep in the transition. $ THE SWEET TOOTH 3110 Frankfort Ave., 895-4554.

You’ll find an enticing c ollection of cak es, pies and other homemade goodies, plus e xcellent coffee and a selection of loose-leaf t eas, in this cozy little spot betw een Cr escent Hill and St. Matthews. $

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MAP # DIRECTION PAGE # DOWNTOWN 84 1 Downtown Louisville NEAR EAST 85 2 Highlands – Crescent Hill EAST 86 3 St. Matthews SOUTH EAST 87 4 Hikes Point – Buechel EAST 88 5 Hurstbourne N. – Lyndon SOUTH EAST 89 6 Hurstbourne S. – Jeffersontown NORTH EAST 90 7 River Rd. – Brownsboro Rd. NORTH EAST 90 8 Westport Rd. FAR EAST 91 9 Middletown NORTH EAST 91 10 Prospect SOUTH EAST 91 11 Fern Creek SOUTH 92 12 Airport – Okolona SOUTH WEST 93 13 Shively – Pleasure Ridge Park INDIANA 94 14 New Albany – Floyds Knobs INDIANA 95 15 Clarksville INDIANA 95 16 Jeffersonville

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louisville • 424 south 4th street located at 4th street live! phone: 502-568-2202 • hardrock.com

©2006 Hard Rock Cafe International, Inc. All rights reserved.

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Since 1982, our passion for teaching has produced some of the finest chefs, cooks, pastry chefs, catering professionals and hotel & restaurant managers in the country. With 100% graduate employment since the beginning, the ingredients are here for an exciting, rewarding career. Give us a call to see what we can do for you!

Louisville Campus 3101 Bardstown Road • Louisville, KY 40205 (800) 844-1354 www.sullivan.edu Lexington Campus 2355 Harrodsburg Rd • Lexington, KY 40504 (800) 467-6281 www.sullivan.edu

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