Fall 2007 (Vol. 18)

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FALL 2007

extreme ethnic profiles of culturally diverse eateries guide to ethnic food markets worldly recipes

A World of Drinks

sake|flowering tea|more www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

plus 900

restaurant listings with reviews & maps

$ 4 . 9 9 U. S .

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Winston’s Executive Chef John Castro is currently featured on The Food Network’s Throwdown! with Bobby Flay.

Friday & Saturday Lunch 11am - 2pm Dinner 5:30 - 10pm Sunday Brunch 9:30am - 2pm

Reservations (502) 456-0980

FALL 2007 PUBLISHER JOHN CARLOS WHITE EDITOR-IN-CHIEF ROBIN GARR VICE PRESIDENT DANIEL F. BOYLE COLUMNISTS ROGER A. BAYLOR JAY FORMAN ROBIN GARR RON JOHNSON DAVID LANGE JERRY SLATER

Winston’s is a Kentucky “Restaurant of the Year” and Wine Spectator Magazine National Award Winner.

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS GREG GAPSIS MICHAEL L. JONES

3101 Bardstown Road • Louisville, KY 40205

CONTRIBUTING CHEFS ARMAND LUESCHER BRUCE UCÁN

Located on the campus of Sullivan University.

CHIEF RESTAURANT CRITIC ROBIN GARR

For your next dinner party or business function, remember The Bakery. This European-style bakery offers the best selection of pastries, breads, delectable chocolate delicacies and cakes customized for any occasion.

7am-4:30pm Mon - Sat

CHIEF PHOTOGRAPHER DAN DRY MAGAZINE DESIGN & LAYOUT JOHN CARLOS WHITE GRAPHIC DESIGN KATHY KULWICKI STEFAN TAMBURRO COPY EDITORS MARY W. JOHNSON PAUL NAJJAR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES ANNETTE B. WHITE DISTRIBUTION / FACT CHECKING AMANDA SMITH

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Food & Dining Magazine ® is published quarterly by Louisville Dining Magazine, Inc. P.O. Box 665, Louisville KY 40201 The publisher and advertisers are not responsible or liable f or misprints, typographical errors or misinformation. The opinions expressed herein are those of the writ ers and do not necessarily reflect the opinion of the publisher. Food & Dining Magazine® and Louisville Dining Magazine Inc. are in no w ay affiliated with Louisville Magazine® or any of its affiliates.

Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited.

All rights reserved.

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Submit subscription requests to: Food & Dining Magazine ® P.O. Box 665, Louisville KY 40201, or call (502) 493-5511 ext. 540 or subscribe online at www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

(502) 454-4499 3101 Bardstown Road Louisville, KY 40205

For Advertising information call (502) 493-5511 ext. 550 ON THE COVER Basa Chef Michael Ton’s caramelized catfish and smoked bacon clay pot with a Vietnamese celery, tomato and tamarind broth soup.

(Feature story, page 18)

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Photo by Dan Dry

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FALL 2007

FEATURES Extreme Ethnic: Worldly dining The world shrinks, and our palates expand. Greg Gapsis and Michael L. Jones profile ethnic eateries from off the beaten path.

Ethnic Markets: Think globally, eat locally To serve as your quick guide, we’ve put together a comprehensive list of ethnic markets in the region.

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COLUMNS NEWS AND NOTES COMINGS & GOINGS

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The current quarter’s report on restaurant openings, closings, moves and other news on the local dining scene.

SIDE DISHES Noteworthy restaurant and culinary happenings.

HUMOR DID DINNER JUST WINK AT ME? Jay Forman tells how he learned to get past caring that no two foods ever touched on his plate.

TRAVEL ROAD TRIP: NYC Pizza

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In Chicago it’s the hot dog. In Memphis, it’s barbecue. Ron Johnson takes us on a tour of the Big Apple’s iconic dish.

LIQUIDS CORK 101: The geographical dilemma Although no formal rule of wine etiquette requires it, it’s fun to match favorite dishes with wine from the same country.

HIP HOPS: True ethnic beers Roger A. Baylor recommends matching beer styles, not national origin, for the best experience with ethnic fare.

SPIRITS: Sake

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In the increasingly familiar realm of spirits, Japan’s sake remains relatively mysterious. Jerry Slater gives us a translation and guide.

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TEA: Thinking outside the bag Tea presentation has reached a new level with the introduction of Chinese flowering teas. David Lange explains.

RECIPES RESTAURANT FAVORITES: Mayapán Chilaquiles Mayán Café’s Chef Bruce Ucán reinvents chilaquiles as an elegant dish that retains the hearty comfort of the Mexican original.

TOP CHEF RECIPES: A rare breed of craftsman Sullivan University Pastry Chef Armand Luescher boasts 60 years of baking experience. He presents three seasonal goodies.

RESTAURANT GUIDE

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DINING GUIDE Our updated, comprehensive listing of over 900 area restaurants complete with reviews.

MAPS Find all of the restaurants in our Dining Guide on 16 area maps.

8 10 14 16 34 36 38 40 42 50 54 82

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news and notes

comings

& goings

A couple of high-profile new restaurant openings highlighted local restaurant news during the past quarter, along with the disappointment of several much-loved dining institutions that shut their doors for the last time.

Overall, it was by no means the most successful quarter for the Louisville-area restaurant business since Food & Dining began this quarterly watch: While 16 new restaurants opened and 10 more added new locations to existing eateries or chains, this news was outweighed by the closing of 26 restaurant businesses plus 10 units in surviving restaurant groups.

It should be noted that the number of closings is somewhat inflated as Food & Dining updates its records with a periodic sweep of neighborhood restaurant closings not previously reported; still, we’re never pleased to see restaurants closing in significant numbers.

OPENINGS In recent months, three new finedining establishments have opened their doors: Varanese, the signature restaurant of popular local chef John Varanese (formerly of U of L’s Cardinal Club and Azalea), has transformed the old Red Lounge at 2106 Frankfort Avenue into a stylish dining venue. The chain-rich East End suburbs get some serious independent competition as Chef Anthony Lamas opens Seviche A Latin Bistro — a sibling to his top-tier Seviche A Latin Restaurant in the Highlands — at 2929 Goose Creek Road; and Equus Chef Dean Corbett is poised to open Corbett’s “An American Place” at 5050 Nor ton Healthcare Boulevard in Brownsboro Crossing before Christmas.

Just out the road at Nor ton Commons, The Tea Station Chinese Bistro is open in the village square at 9442 Norton Commons Boulevard.

Also in the East End, locally owned and operated Hanabi Japanese Restaurant opened at 6027 Timber Ridge Drive in Prospect; 8 China Buffet is in business at 1850 S. Hurstbourne Parkway; and the first new restaurants are coming on line at Westport Village, the renovated Camelot 8

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Shopping Center: The Bountiful Bread Bakery Café opens at 1311 Herr Lane, La Vida Java Coffee Co. comes to 1301 Herr Lane and another Qdoba Mexican Grill launches at 1321 Herr Lane. Watch this redeveloped shopping center for more restaurants, coming soon, including Napa River Grill next spring.

Downtown, add Cat Box Deli to your luncheon options in the PNC Building, 500 W. Jefferson Street; Sicilian Pizza & Pasta brings quick Italian to 631 South 4th Street; Road to Morocco offers a short Middle Eastern menu to a Moroccan gift shop in the Henry Clay Building, 308 W. Chestnut Street; and a former Vincenzo’s chef is making exceptional barbecue and sauces at Wood City Grill, 612 S. Fifth Street.

Elsewhere around town, Tuscany Italian Restaurant, out in the deep South End at 165 Outer Loop west of New Cut Road, a chef of Mexican heritage is winning critical applause for his command of quality Italian-American fare.The similarly named Tuscano’s, also serving a family-Italian menu, is associated with Noble Roman’s Pizza at 4100 Preston Highway.

Two new pizzerias join the list: Alexander’s Pizzeria at 1611 CharlestownNew Albany Road in Jeffersonville, Indiana,

and Fat Daddy’s Pizza, 10611 W. Manslick Road.

Finally, we belatedly record the arrival last autumn of Oceanside Restaurant, offering a seafood menu with Middle Eastern and Moroccan touches in Hikes Point at 3707 Klondike Lane.

In addition to Seviche, local restaurants adding additional properties this quarter were BoomBozz Pizza Bistro, 12613 Taylorsville Road; J. Gumbo’s, 4005 Summit Plaza Drive; La Rosita, 113 Grant Line Road, New Albany, Indiana; Sala Thai’s City Wok, 526 W. Main St.; and Shiraz Mediterranean, 2226 Holiday Manor.

National chains adding new links were Dooley’s Bagelcatessen, 300 W. Chestnut Street and 2415 Lime Kiln Lane; and Moe’s Southwest Grill, 9372 Cedar Center Way.

CLOSINGS Two shocking closings took familiar names off the local dining scene as Azalea ended its 14-year run in the historic Bauer’s building at 3612 Brownsboro Road; and the critically acclaimed Bistro New Albany, citing capitalization problems, ceased operations in the old New Albany Inn at 148 E. Market Street in the Southern Indiana city.

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Efforts to save the ill-fated La Rouge by reincarnation as Bobby J’s sputtered along for only a few months before the venue at 252 E. Market Street went dark again; and lease problems reportedly doomed the effort by Bourbon Bros. BBQ to enlarge and move upscale in the old Indian restaurant palace at 2901 Brownsboro Road.

On the ethnic side, Lexington-based I Ching Asian Café failed in its effort to establish a Louisville branch at 4600 Shelbyville Road; and Jerusalem Mediterranean Café, 1907 S. Third Street near U of L, which never seemed to recover from the loss of its founding chef, also closed.

The market was bearish for Buffalo wings, with the closing of Hippo Wings, 502 E. Warnock Street, and Wings N Things, 2809 N. Hurstbourne Parkway. Nor was it high times for barbecue, with Marcus’ Ribs by the Slab, 701 Algonquin Parkway, and Pepper Shaker Chili & Bar-B-Q, 4912 Preston Highway, joining Bourbon Bros. on the closure list.

Other closings, listed alphabetically on the Kentucky side of the Ohio, included: American Pizza, 6712 Shepherdsville Road; Cajun Kitchen, 4645 Outer Loop; City Wok, 526 W. Main St., 583-7238; Los Chubascos, 10000 Linn Station Road; Taste Buffet, 11300 Chamberlain Lane; Third & Main Café, 220 W. Main St.; Thyme Café, 711 S. Third Street; Twice Told Performance Café, 3507 W. Hwy. 146 in LaGrange, and Wild Oats Café, 4600 Shelbyville Road.

On the Indiana side, listed alphabetically, these closings: Asian BBQ & Cuisine, 1207 E. Market Street, Jeffersonville; Chicago Grill & Subs, 1626 Spring Street, Jeffersonville; Diefenbach Café, 128 S. New Albany Street, Sellersburg; El Paso, 700 Riverside Drive, Jeffersonville; Jolly Rogers, 850 Main Street, Charlestown; Ranch House, 2611 Charlestown Road, New Albany; and Shane’s, 1004 10th Street, Jeffersonville.

Chains closing one or more locations while others remained in business included: Bean Street Café, 3003 Charlestown Road, New Albany; Coffee Crossing, 13825 English Villa Drive; Dooley’s Bagelcatessen, 2226 Holiday Manor Center, 216 N. Hurstbourne Parkway, and 2241 State Street, New Albany; Hometown Pizza, 8442 Dixie

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Highway; Saffron’s Buffet, 558 S. Fifth Street; Sam’s Food & Spirits, 724 Highlander Point Drive, Floyds Knobs, Indiana; and TGI Friday’s, 2311 Lime Kiln Lane.

MOVES In what management describes as a gradual name change, the popular Rich O’s beer pub and Sportstime pizza at 3312 Plaza Drive in New Albany have consolidated their name and operation as New Albanian Brewing Company public house and pizzeria.

The Café at the Louisville Antique Mall trims its name to The Café as it moves out of the Goss Avenue antique mall to new quarters at 712 Brent Street off East Broadway.

Chez Seneba, Louisville’s only Senegalese restaurant, has moved to new, more spacious quarters just off Newburg Road at 4218 Bishop Lane.

St. Matthews’ chic Café Emilie, 3939 Shelbyville Road, takes a new name and shakes up its menu, emerging as 60 West Bistro & Martini Bar. More name changes: The Fishery Station, 5627 Outer Loop, becomes Sharom’s; and King Benny’s Pizza Tavern, 1919 South Preston St., becomes Bruno’s Pizzeria & Pub. F&D

We regret any omissions, but invite the restaurant community to keep us informed. Send information by E-mail to publisher@foodanddiningmagazine.com.

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news and notes

side CHEFS Chefs on the Move For a time there this autumn it almost seemed as if every chef in town was picking up his knife roll and moving on down the road in a wacky culinary version of musical chairs.

Can’t tell the players without a scorecard? Here’s one: Fresh back from James Beard House in New York City, Volare’s Chef Dallas McGarity left to run the kitchen at private Wildwood Country Club. His sous chef, Joshua Moore, stepped in to fill his Crocs without losing a step; Moore recently announced an innovative new menu in which many regional Italian dishes will change monthly.

As Dean Corbett of Equus moves toward opening his new Corbett’s “An American Place” in the East End before Christmas, he summoned Chef Chris Howerton from Club Grotto to be executive chef at Corbett’s. (Equus Corporate Chef Kevin Rice will retain that post for both Equus and Corbett’s.)

dishes

Mike Driskell, who had left Club Grotto for his late, lamented Diamante, now returns to his old post at Club Grotto, where he joins Equus alum Michael Dunbar in the kitchen.

Anthony Lamas summoned longtime local chef Jack Tapp, still fondly remembered from Deitrich’s Brasserie, to run the kitchen at Seviche A Latin Bistro, just opened on Goose Creek Road.

Still more moves: Chef Jerome Pope of The Coach Lamp took over from Tony Efstratiadis at Stratto’s in Clarksville as Efstratiadis heads east to run Jeff Ruby’s Northern Kentucky operation. Chef Brian Hove comes to the Downtown Marriott’s BLU from Lexington’s Mansion at Griffin Gate. And another chef is lured by country club life as Chef Rick Boman of Norma Jean’s in La Grange is now cooking at the Covered Bridge Country Club.

Chef Tony Efstratiadis

Chef on Tour Chef Fernando Martinez of Havana Rumba and Mojito is off to Europe this month, having been accepted at the noteworthy French culinary academy Le Cordon Bleu in Paris for an intensive culinary program. He’ll go through the academy’s first six-week session in November and December, then return next year for two more sessions. He also hopes to spend time touring Europe and perhaps work a “stage” (kitchen apprenticeship) in one of the world-class restaurants of Barcelona. It’s a real feather in his cap for one of the city’s most honored young chefs, and we’re proud for him.

EVENTS What’s Your Beef?

If you’re looking to beef up your dinner with something meaty, you’ll want to sign on for the first annual Kentucky Chef Chris Howerton 10 Fall 2007 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

Cattle Crawl, coming up fast on Monday, Nov. 12.

Sponsored by the Kentucky Beef Council and Louisville Originals, the Kentucky Cattle Crawl is a progressive dinner and wine tasting, in which participants will ride a luxury coach bus among four participating Louisville Originals restaurants between 5 p.m. and 11 p.m.

The itinerary includes a grilled sirloin appetizer with wines at L & N Wine Bar and Bistro; a flatiron steak salad with wine at Palermo Viejo; a choice of veal main courses with wine at Café Metro, and dessert with wine (but no beef!) at Asiatique.

Dinner, including the bus tour and some swag, is $100 a person.The group is limited by the bus capacity to 55 people, so sign up soon: Call the Kentucky Beef Council, (859) 278-0899, to make reservations, or check details at www.kybeef.com.

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Chefs Duane Nutter and Todd Richards (right)

Oakroom on Iron Chef … finally!

When Oakroom Chef Todd Richards took off for New York City with sous chef Duane Nutter and Mixologist Jerry Slater to compete in Food Network’s Iron Chef America, the team was told to keep its lips zipped about the event until their competition aired on the network in January.

They assumed that this instruction meant January 2007, but as it develops, they’ve been holding on to the secret for a long, long time. A full year after their Oct. 17, 2006 contest, the network’s Website revealed that the long-awaited battle will finally air this season, star ting on Dec. 2 at 9 p.m. Richards said that came as news to him … and he still won’t tell us who won or even the theme ingredient.

(Food Network did reveal, however, that the Oakroom guys battled Iron Chef Catherine “Cat” Cora, who works in California now as a spokesperson for InSink-Erator garbage disposals.)

Foodies all over the region have already got their Tivos and DVRs programmed, and we’re told that a lot of Iron Chef-watching parties are planned.

Here’s the schedule of airings on Food Network. Louisville Insight channel 46 or DirecTV channel 231.

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Dec. 2, Dec. 3, Dec. 6, Dec. 7,

9 p.m.

Midnight 9 p.m.

Midnight

Dec. 8, 7 p.m.

Dec. 8, 11 p.m.

Dec. 9, 2 a.m.

With its enduring American Automobile Association five-diamond rating, the Oakroom under Richards and Nutter is said to be the nation’s only “five-star” restaurant operated by a team of AfricanAmerican chefs.

OTHER NEWS Bristol challenges wine-list markups For many wine lovers, one of the most frustrating things about enjoying wine at a restaurant is the markup. Restaurants routinely set their wine list prices at three to four times the wholesale price they pay for a bottle. This means that diners buying from the list can expect to pay at least twice as much as they would for the same wine in a retail store.

Restaurants justify this practice on the basis of cost:Wine inventory, storage, glassware and service all add legitimate costs, and it’s fair to recover that. Still, knowing that you’re paying $25 for a bottle that cost the restaurant $5 can hurt your feelings.

Enter Louisville’s Bristol Bar & Grille, which celebrated its 30th anniversary in September with a cheeky challenge to established wine-list practice. Effective immediately, and continuing for 12 months, the Bristol has pegged its entire wine list at twice each wine’s wholesale price, effectively matching prices you’d pay at a retail wine shop.

Thus, the Bristol’s bottle price for Heidsieck Champagne dropped from $57 a bottle to about $33.Trevor Jones “Virgin” Australian Chardonnay, dropped from $31 to $19. Even a sought-after item like Cakebread Chardonnay, around $70 at many Louisville eateries, can now be had at the Bristol for $38.

Bristol owner and founder Doug Gossman put it bluntly: “There’s a reason why wines in restaurants are higher than in liquor stores,” he said. “But I resent just getting shafted when I buy wine. Some very popular restaurants mark up four times their cost.

“I hope this will draw attention to the egregious amounts that some restaurants mark up wine,” Gossman said.“If this draws attention to that and pulls prices down, good.”

On the Radar There’s a lot more regional restaurant activity coming soon but not quite ready for detailed announcements. Among a few confirmed rumors and pre-announcements we’ve picked up are: Publican Roger A. Baylor of New Albanian Brewing Co. has recently turned up in the New Albany newspapers and LouisvilleHotBytes.com forum talking about serious plans to open a second location of his award-winning beer hall and pizzeria in downtown New Albany.

Chef Peng Looi of Asiatique and August Moon will launch a franchise operation based on August Moon next year. We’re told that the first Asiatique Bistro will open in Cincinnati’s affluent West Chester neighborhood next year. If all goes well, several more similar bistros may follow in the region.

Fans of the West Coast’s Topz Burgers and the East Coast’s Bruster’s ice cream shops are all atwitter over news that both chains will open Louisville proper ties soon.

Bristol Bar & Grille will open its first Southern Indiana restaurant next year, as

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the local chain launches its fifth restaurant in the quarters formerly occupied by the Ramada Riverfront Inn, where the Bristol joins a growing cluster of popular riverview restaurants near the north bank of the Ohio in Jeffersonville.

Meanwhile, over at Westport Road and Herr Lane, where the shopworn old Camelot Shopping Center is giving way to a faux Swiss chalet look as the renovated Westport Village, a number of eateries are coming online. Joining the businesses featured in Comings & Goings above are Hiko A Mon Sushi Bar, Indigo Joe’s Sports Pub and R.J. Gators Florida Sea Grill & Bar. Napa River Grill has previously announced plans to move its property over to Westport Village from Dupont Circle next year.

Deck the Halls with Louisville Originals Planning a holiday party or marking off your gift shopping list? Think Louisville Originals this year! A Louisville Originals gift card is the perfect holiday gift for anyone who loves food and dining.

Accepted by more than 50 of Louisville’s best independent, locally owned restaurants, gift cards are available in any amount from $25 to $1,000. Order five or more at a time, and get a 5 percent discount on the purchase price.

You can get them online at www. louisvilleoriginals.com, at all ValuMarket stores, and at the Louisville Visitors Center at Fourth and Jefferson Streets. Orders placed online will arrive three days after receipt of payment. A gift card may be used as many times as you like, as long as credit remains, at any par ticipating Louisville Originals member restaurants.

SUBSCRIBE TO FOOD & DINING Can’t wait to see what’s in the next issue of Food & Dining? Why not subscribe. Sign up for one year for $18, and we’ll give you four quarterly editions and pay you back in full with $18 in localrestaurant gift certificates. Better still, take two years for $26, we’ll send you eight issues and send you $36 worth of gift certificates. Subscribe online at: www.foodanddiningmagazine.com F&D www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Fall 2007 13

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BY JAY FORMAN

did

dinner just wink at me?

W

hen I was a kid, I used to pitch a fit whenever foods touched on my plate. Perhaps this is why my parents never considered me a particularly adventurous eater.

Strange foods frightened me, and early on an indulgent mom enabled my culinary neuroses by cutting the crusts off my bread and spiking my milk with vanilla extract.

This all changed when I was 17. I spent the summer working in Tokyo with my friend Mike, whose Japanese father owned a chain of gelato stores. Most of the time Mike’s dad was out of town on business, and we essentially ran wild in an amazing city with no discernable drinking age. We’d often be out until five in the morning, and I managed to subsist on late-night meals of McDonald’s McTeriyaki burgers and Domino’s pizza that for some reason always had corn on it. During the brief times that Mike’s dad was in town, he would take us out to eat. And by “eat,” I mean, “torment his houseguest with foods that had suckers and a pulse.”

After a few such outings, the mere utterance of the phrases “My dad” and “Out to dinner” would cause me to run for the nearest bullet train.

The most memorable of these meals took place at a sushi bar. But this was no ordinary sushi bar. It was presided over by an aquarium full of bizarro creatures that, I would soon learn, were to be scooped up for courses one through nine. Their survivors bore mute witness to the most excruciating dinner of my life, as a commando team of trained chefs periodically plunged their nets into the tank to grapple with the next ingredient on our tasting menu.

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Our dinner culminated with abalone. You see, abalone was what this restaurant was famous for, and abalone was what we had come there to eat. Well, not me, but I digress. For those of you unfamiliar with abalone, it is a large, flat aquatic snail thing. But before you start thinking, “Ha ha, he couldn’t even eat a harmless aqua-snail,” what you need to know is how this particular delicacy was prepared.

There, with its meaty foot stuck against the glass facing us, was a particularly succulent abalone. The chef reached down into the tank and plucked it from the side. It was then borne proudly to a charcoal brazier and placed above the flames, shell-side down.

“Watch,” Mike’s dad, a man who rarely spoke, ominously intoned.

After a few moments the edges of the abalone began to twitch. Subtly at first, its motions gathered intensity as the heat beneath it increased. For you see, this is how the Japanese had learned to separate the abalone from its shell: they torture it until it actually detaches itself and tries to flee. Soon little ripples were undulating across the surface of the snail. If there had been tiny microphones attenuated to whatever frequency it is that snails scream at, they would have picked up this creature’s shrieks of pain. Finally the chef grabbed the abalone, slid the creature off its shell and onto a wooden block. He whacked it into chunks with a cleaver and then pushed a plate in front of me.

“Eat,” said Mike’s dad, watching me intently.

I was, of course, trapped. Caught in a classic pincher between a peer — Mike — who would never let me hear the end of it if

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I chickened out, and my host — Mike’s father — who would find it rude if I refused this hospitality. I looked down at the pearly meat. It was still twitching.

Picking a piece up with chopsticks, I placed it in my mouth, chewed exactly once, then swallowed it whole with a monster gulp of beer. A moment passed, and an extra gulp of beer kept it down. “Mmm. Delicious,” I finally gasped, tears streaming down my red face. Mike’s dad solemnly nodded.

“Yes. Delicious.”

“Dude, you almost hurled all over the fish tank,” Mike whispered. “That would have been awesome.”

Indeed, it was beer that got me through most of my early meals in Japan.

Thank God they served it to kids; it was even in vending machines. But toward the end of my trip a strange thing happened. I began enjoying things that I would have crossed the street to avoid back home. I came to really enjoy Takoyaki, a popular snack food sold from carts. It was kind of like a hush puppy, only with chunks of octopus inside. I also came to love a Korean place Mike and I discovered during one of our drunken late-night rambles.

Koreans are generally shunned as outsiders in Japan, and I’ve since come to view the Korean joint as a kind of “soul food” establishment. It was warm and homey, but usually empty, though maybe that was because we typically staggered in there around 3 a.m. Nevertheless, the owner was always welcoming. I became fond of the cuttlefish steak, which would shrivel up as we cooked it on the tabletop grill. I loved this place for many reasons, not the least of which was that it gave me the option of actually cooking my food to the point at which it stopped moving.

Ironically, those meals back in Japan are meals I would now, as an adult, gladly pay hundreds of dollars for. And to this day I credit that trip, and the trial by fire that Mike’s dad put me through, with starting me on the road to my own culinary awakening. Though I could not appreciate it at the time, I owe them both a great debt.

Still, if I had to do it all over again, next time I would skip the abalone. F&D www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Fall 2007 15

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BY RON JOHNSON

I

n Chicago it’s the hot dog. In Memphis, it’s barbecue. In Boston, it’s clam chowder, and in New York City, it’s pizza.

There is hardly an American alive who doesn’t know the term “NYC-style pizza.” The term is usually applied to a large, floppy slice of thin-crust pizza that must be folded in half lengthwise so it can be handled without drooping. While that’s not totally offbase, there is a little more to be said about this creation that New York City has taken as its own.

The true New York-style pie is a mammoth round that comes in one size only, often exceeding 18 inches in diameter. Don’t set foot into most New York pizzerias with the idea of ordering small, medium or large. If you want less than a whole pie, you simply order a slice or two. The pizza is made with a thin crust and a puffed rim, the result of a vigorous kneading of the dough and a long, slow rise to develop gluten.

True to its roots in Naples, Italy, NYC-style crust is not just an afterthought, nor a mere topping delivery device. In New York the crust is an integral part of every pie, just as important — if not more so — as what goes on top. It should be simultaneously chewy and crisp. In the best pizzerias, those using a coal-fired or wood-burning oven, the crust will be blistered on the bottom with spots of the much sought-after char, the natural result of baking at temperatures that exceed 650 degrees.

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It’s less well-known that a second style of pizza is available in many New York pizzerias, and it is every bit as good as the classic.

The Sicilian Square pizza’s origin is obvious from its name, but it is substantially different from its more famous counterpart. The Sicilian, a twice-baked, deep-dish affair, is more rustic and comforting than the thin-crust Neapolitan style. It is the obvious inspiration for the “pan pizzas” that swept corporate chain pizzerias back in the 1980s. The Sicilian’s more substantial dough is initially baked in an olive oil-slicked, charred black pan. Then it is baked a second time with simple toppings, nothing more than the well-seasoned tomatoes and cheese. It is always cut into squares, much like traditional focaccia.

Beyond the crust, the rest is kept quick and simple. Don’t ask for or expect “the works” on a real NYC pizza (or, for that matter, an Italian pizza). In the ideal pizza, the dough and the toppings bake together in a harmonious symphony of scorching heat.The classic form consists of nothing more than stretched dough topped with crushed San Marzano tomatoes, sea salt and some slices of fresh mozzarella, baked until crusty Italian bread forms beneath a thin blanket of cooked tomato sauce and melted cheese. Garnishes are little more than a sprinkling of fresh basil and maybe a shot of dried red chile flakes. From that base, customers can choose to add spicy pepperoni, sweet fennel sausage, sliced porcini or

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trimmed artichoke hearts. By keeping the number of toppings to a minimum, the pizza chef — pizzaiolo in Italian — avoids the disappointment of either a watery or under-cooked pie.

There is truly extraordinary pizza to be found throughout the five boroughs of New York city, but the best is DiFara’s in Midway, Brooklyn. A pleasant ride to Avenue J on the subway will drop you steps from DiFara’s door, where you can see Dominic DiMarco at work making the same pizzas he’s been selling for 50 years.

Both Neapolitan and twice-baked, thickcrust Sicilian pies are available here. The secret is to order a slice of Sicilian to nibble on while you wait for your whole New York-style pie. Dominic is fanatical about using only the best quality cheese and ingredients. Try the artichoke and sausage pie if it’s available.

Many of New York’s other truly great pizzerias are also found in Brooklyn.

Franny’s, Lucali’s, and Totonno’s are all worthwhile destinations.Totonno’s requires a bit of trek, as it is all the way out by Coney Island, but the pizza is as real as it gets in the Big Apple. This small and tidy storefront just blocks from the ocean is home to one of the most famous coalfired ovens of New York pizza lore. The blistering heat of this oven chars the crust just right and reduces the tomato and cheese on top to a slightly smoky and melted deliciousness.

Franny’s is the operation of a husband-and-wife team that turns out a more artisanal pie, often topped with seasonal and locally produced toppings.

Think Chez Panisse meets the pizzeria, and you’ll get the idea. A relative newcomer to a Brooklyn neighborhood with a longtime history of Italian food and pizza is Lucali’s.

Opened by the son of Italian-born immigrants who fulfilled his parents’ dream of making good in corporate America, the restaurant is his way of giving back a little Italian flavor to the rapidly gentrifying old Italian-American neighborhood Cobble Hill. Some have already anointed this tiny shop as successor to the throne of DiFara’s: The pizza is that good.

For Manhattan options, top choices include Patsy’s, 28 Carmine, Otto, Waldy’s, Pizza Box, Una Pizza Napoletana and Lombardi’s. Patsy’s is located in rapidly gentrifying Spanish Harlem at 117th Street and 2nd Avenue. Much like Totonno’s, it is

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part of the New York pizza establishment.

A relative newcomer is 28 Carmine, at the Greenwich Village address indicated by its name. Run by a band of brothers from Naples, this tiny pizzeria sells only authentic Neapolitan pies baked quickly in a woodburning oven. English is barely spoken, and service can be spotty, but the pizzas are delicious.

Also in the Village is the non-descript, totally anonymous, and oddly named Pizza Box. Nothing about this place gives any hint of the high-quality and authentic New York-style pizza being produced within, but it enjoys a well-deserved following of local neighborhood folks and serious pizza eaters from all over the city.

Waldy Malouf is a well-known chef in New York who made his mark at several upscale, fine-dining restaurants, so no one was surprised when he turned his attention to detail in the direction of pizza.

His eponymous restaurant produces pizzas that bridge the gap between authentic Neapolitan pies and the classic New York style.

To taste what the real Neapolitan pizza is like, your choice is the obviously named Una Pizza Napoletana in the East Village. The chef-owner is the kind of dedicated purist who scares off tourists but draws “foodies” like the Pied Piper of pizza.The shop is open only for dinner, and he will offer only very limited toppings and only in the combinations that he deems proper.The result is a pizza that one could just as easily find on the Amalfi coast or in gritty downtown Naples itself.

Although its pizza lags behind New York’s absolute best, it would be wrong not to mention Otto. Celebrity Chef Mario Batali opened this swank snack bar in the heart of Greenwich Village several years ago, and it has been packed ever since.The pizzas have improved dramatically over the years, but even better reasons to go are the mammoth wine list and the seasonal gelato. The olive oil gelato alone is reason enough to go back again and again.

There is so much good pizza available in New York that it could serve you for breakfast, lunch and dinner.Whether you venture out to Brooklyn or stay in Manhattan, you can’t go many blocks without stumbling into a pizzeria. Just make sure to fold the slice before you pick it up, and don’t forget to order that Sicilian square while you wait for your pie to bake. F&D www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Fall 2007 17

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people and places profiles

BY GREG GAPSIS AND MICHAEL L. JONES | PHOTOS BY DAN DRY

The world seems to be getting smaller before our eyes these days, as globalization and world travel put distant places within easy reach, while television and mass media bring the most exotic quarters of the globe into our living rooms.

Meanwhile, as the world shrinks, our palates expand. Just about everybody loves pizza and spaghetti, so Italian dishes have become as familiar as our traditional steak, potatoes and apple pie. The same goes for Mexican fare, with its familiar burritos and tacos. Surely no cuisine that comes through the fast-food window can be considered “exotic” anymore.

In the same way, most everybody loves Chinese stir-fries; and even Indian dishes — at least the milder variety — have become as familiar as that jar of yellow curry powder on your spice rack.

But let’s suppose we’re looking for something just a little more unusual in a voyage of discovery, seeking foods with flavors that we don’t yet recognize … dishes named in languages that we can’t pronounce … intriguing new ingredients that we’ve never before imagined.

Let’s sail out on a tasty voyage to the far side of the culinary seas in search of what we might call “Extreme Ethnic.” Turn the page and inhale deeply as writers Greg Gapsis and Michael L. Jones introduce us to six of Louisville’s ethnic jewels.

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people and places profiles

BY GREG GAPSIS AND MICHAEL L. JONES | PHOTOS BY DAN DRY

Mojito Tapas Restaurant F ERNANDO M ARTINEZ he moment you enter Mojito you are confronted by a subtle but consistent ambience. Not pushy or gaudy, lime green walls and darker green banquettes frame a roomful of polished wood tables surrounded by mission-style chairs with leather seats and backs.

Overhead, wagon wheels with wrought iron sconces serve as chandeliers. Solicitous servers attend you, and salsa music wafts from the sound system.

Then you notice a line of black and white photographs with iconic Cuban images. Are they old or new? It’s hard to tell. And then it hits you — they are both. The present is the old and the old is still the present in Havana.

Tap into the spirit of Mojito, where its élan far outstrips its suburban strip mall location.

“We’re really passionate about everything that we do, whether it’s music, dancing or food,” said Fernando Martinez, executive chef and proprietor. “It’s a way to celebrate and share who I am, where I come from and my culture.”

Martinez, born in Havana in 1973, discovered his passion for cooking at the side of his mother Yolanda and Grandmother Ella.

But in Fidel Castro’s Cuba, trying to pursue that love led to complications.

“As a student I would sell sandwiches to taxi drivers at the airport to earn dollars. I got in trouble for that,” Martinez said.

“Then I tried a paladar, a private restaurant with a few tables in our living room.They’re legal now, but not then. I got in trouble for that. I was just trying to make a living doing something I loved.”

In 1994, Martinez told his mother that he had had it. Even with a son from a marriage that didn’t work out, he was going to the U.S. She replied, “Then you’re taking me with you.”

They spent three days on a homemade raft as the two rode currents on the Straits of Florida. Picked up by the U.S. Coast Guard, they were shipped back to Guantanamo Bay to spend another year before finally being allowed to immigrate into the U.S. “We had no family in the States, so we were referred to the Catholic Charities agency.We were in San Diego for a year, but it’s a tough city for an immigrant: jobs are hard to come by and both housing and the cost of living is high.”

Friends suggested they come to Louisville, and it clicked. “It’s not small but not that big. Cost of living is not that high, housing’s

Mojito’s braised short ribs with a Rioja red-wine reduction served over Manchego cheese mashed potatoes.

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MOJITO TAPAS RESTAURANT

425-0949 | 2231 Holiday Manor Shopping Center

reasonable and crime isn’t off the chart,” Martinez said. “We moved into south Louisville around Iroquois Manor and started again, hoping to save enough to one day move to Miami.”

Martinez worked a variety of jobs as a butcher, at T.G.I. Friday’s, Ernesto’s and the short-lived Salsa South Beach. He met and married his wife Cristina during that time, and he began to think that perhaps he could fulfill his dreams here.

In 2004, with partner Marcos Lorenzo, Martinez opened Havana Rumba, a small Cuban-style restaurant in St. Matthews. It was an immediate success, and within a year, they more than doubled its size with a 20-table expansion next door.

After three years, they started a second venture, taking over La Peche’s space in the Holiday Manor Shopping Center to open Mojito in March 2007.

“Many people were skeptical about us being in the suburbs, but the response has been terrific. After three weeks, we were

packed,” Martinez said.“I think it is a sign of how ready people were to go beyond Mexican food.”

Martinez created a new menu for Mojito based on tapas — small, savory Spanish dishes usually served with drinks, (The word literally means “cover” or “lid,” because in Spain’s Sherry country the original tapas were served on small plates placed on top of the wine glass.)

“For a chef, it’s a good way to do more,” Martinez said. “It’s authentic food, but it allows you more freedom to work with different things and be creative.”

Variety is plentiful at Mojito. Cold tapas include shrimp cocktail; seared tuna crusted with sesame seeds and served with baby greens, pickled ginger and oranges with a soy ginger glaze; a selection of hummus and salads, and guacamole accompanied by plantain chips.

Hot offerings include fried calamari with avocado lime aioli; mussels; crab cakes; beef-stuffed empanadas cooked in

a Creole wine sauce, and Spanish-style meatballs, a Spanish omelet, yucca croquettes and sweet-potato fries.

Selections of grilled vegetables, beef, chicken or pork are served on skewers (pinchos). One can get small cutting boards (tablas) with cheeses, assorted sausages, grilled vegetables or grilled steak or any of a nice variety of sandwiches (bocaditos) to graze on if your mood is casual and exploratory.

A couple of traditional paellas and an arroz con pollo are available for those wishing a single entrée.

“Dinner here has more flexibility,” Martinez said. “Instead of one big entrée you can get six different smaller dishes. It doesn’t have to be the normal process where you get a salad, an appetizer, entrée and dessert. Here, you are making your own dinner. It can all come together.”

Of course, the signature drink at the full bar is the restaurant’s namesake mojito, a rum cocktail infused with lime juice and www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Fall 2007 21

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oil muddled with lime zest and spearmint leaves. A variety of liquor, beer and wine is available, but Cubanstyle drinks seem to enhance the mood.

The framed Cuba photos are Martinez’s own work, taken during annual trips to visit his son in Cuba. Many feature two famous Havana bars: La Bodeguita de Medio and El Floridita. Both were acknowledged haunts of author Ernest Hemingway when he lived in Cuba. According to Martinez, Hemingway would go to La Bodeguita for his mojitos and El Floridita for his daiquiris.

“Just something to eat, you can get anywhere,” Martinez said.“We wanted to create not just a place to get something to eat, but where you could learn something about Cuba and its culture.”

The restaurants have become a family affair.

Martinez’s father, aunt, sisters and cousins have made their way to Louisville, and many of them have roles. For Martinez, it’s the successful expression of his longsimmering passion to cook, to serve people and welcome them to a place where they can linger and have a good time.

“Nothing gives me more pleasure than to step out of the kitchen at the back of the room and see people enjoying the food and the experience,” he said. “You can have other jobs where you don’t have to work weekends or late nights, but they don’t give you the gratification to immediately see people enjoying themselves.”

(LEFT) Mojito’s Black Angus filet with Spanish Cabrales blue cheese served over roasted garlic mashed potatoes.

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Shiraz Mediterranean Grill R AMIN A KRAMI amin Akrami spent nearly 20 years working as an electrical engineer before he found his true calling.

To his surprise, Akrami said, he realized after he opened Shiraz Mediterranean Grill that this was the job he had been looking for all along. “We started the restaurant to have fun, in all honesty,” he said. “It’s one of the only things I’ve done in my life that wasn’t for money, and it turned out to be the most successful venture in my life.”

Shiraz is named for an ancient Iranian city that also gave its name to a variety of wine grape that is said to have originated there. “We really should have called it Shiraz Persian Grill,” Akrami said. However, he chose “Mediterranean” because he thought more people would recognize that name than Persia, the historic name for modern Iran.

“We have some dishes on our menu that are not Persian at all, but they are a Persian version,” he said.

In some ways, the restaurant’s menu mirrors Akrami’s autobiography. “The menu that we put together here is stuff that I personally love,” he explained. “It ended up being almost 75 percent vegetarian dishes. I never thought about it. I didn’t plan it that way.”

The menu includes dishes that Akrami grew up eating as a child in Iran and others that he encountered later in life. One non-Persian ingredient that he is fond of is quinoa, a high-protein Peruvian grain. He says he cooked with quinoa at home for years before it found its way into Shiraz’s unusual variation on tabbouleh.

Akrami, 45, came to America from Iran in the early ’70s to attend a boarding school in California. At the time, he said, “(Americans) didn’t even know what Iran was or what part of the globe it is in.” His family followed him to America after the 1979 Iranian Revolution, which led to the persecution of their B’Hai Faith. They ended up in Louisville because they had close friends who had already settled here, and Akrami graduated from Westport High School.

His father, Ata, operated Ata’s Catering, a company that provided Persian food for a high-end clientele that included both local Iranian immigrants and savvy Louisvillians.

“I’ve always cooked a lot. It’s actually my passion, it’s something I’ve enjoyed all of my life,” Akrami said. Indeed, he paid his way through the University of Louisville’s Speed School by helping his father in the catering business, waiting tables, working in bars and restaurants.

In fact, he said, he met his wife and Shiraz co-owner Cheryl at work. “The first time we met was at Captain’s Quarters,” Cheryl said. “He was working and I was a guest. Then I saw him again at John E’s. He was working and I was a guest there, too.We got to talking … and things went on from there.” They were married in 1992.

SHIRAZ MEDITERRANEAN GRILL

891-8854 | 2011 Frankfort Avenue

After graduating from college, Akrami traveled the country working as an electrical engineer. He founded his own engineering firm, Automation In Manufacturing Industries, which is based in Greenville, South Carolina. His company helped to design the first automated pharmacy in the country. But even with a successful engineering career, Akrami felt unfulfilled.

“I didn’t want to travel any more,” he said. “I traveled throughout my career. One day, I said to my wife, ‘Let’s open a restaurant and see how it goes.’ ” Cheryl says she agreed because, “he’s always wanted to do it his whole life. I said,‘Go ahead and do it if that’s what you want to do.’ I’m not too surprised at the success. It’s great food and he has a good personality. He’s very friendly with people.” www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Fall 2007 23

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people and places profiles Shiraz Mediterranean Grill opened in December 2005 in a tiny building on Brownsboro Road, but it quickly outgrew that space. In October 2006, Shiraz moved to its current location in a new building on Frankfort Avenue.

“Our first restaurant really was a joke.

You should have seen it,” Akrami said. “It wasn’t ventilated properly so we had smoke everywhere. It wasn’t air conditioned properly so it would get to 120 degrees. To my amazement people didn’t stop coming.”

The move to Frankfort Avenue has brought the restaurant even more customers. Akrami said business has tripled since the restaurant relocated. “Frankfort Avenue is a great up-and-coming area, especially lower Frankfort Avenue. I remember four or five years ago, past the railroad track there was really nothing.” He doesn’t attribute all its success to location, though. “We are more of a destination

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BY GREG GAPSIS AND MICHAEL L. JONES | PHOTOS BY DAN DRY

location. People … are leaving wherever they are to come to Shiraz.”

Soon customers won’t even have to make it to Frankfort Avenue for their Shiraz fix. A second Shiraz is set to open this autumn in Holiday Manor Shopping Center and there are already plans for more locations. “We’ve been blessed, lucky, whatever you want to call it,” Akrami said. “We do have a five-year plan to have anywhere between six to 10 restaurants in Louisville. I’m entertaining some offers for franchise stores to operate independently in Louisville, Elizabethtown and Lexington. People actually approached us to see if they could get a store in those areas.”

Despite the growth Akrami said Shiraz will “stick to our core value of great food for a great price. As long as we can keep those two together I think we’ll do well. It’s time for people to realize that you can eat very well, very cheap. You don’t

have to go to McDonald’s to stick under a $5 to $10 budget.”

For now, Shiraz is strictly a family operation. Akrami’s brother will take over the Frankfort Avenue location when he and Cheryl move to the Holiday Manor location. His father operates a commissary that will provide food for all of the locations. Even Akrami’s nine-year-old son Kamron is getting in on the business: He designed Shiraz’s popular Fatoosh Salad.

“I think it’s in the blood,” Akrami said.

“I tell people all the time, ‘This is not a restaurant, this is my parent’s house.’ We cut no corners, it’s traditional family recipes by people who know food and are well known in the Iranian community for their cooking. It’s the same stuff I’ve been eating my entire life and I still go home on my day off and I crave it.”

(BELOW) Shiraz’s Joojeh Kabob: Char-grilled marinated chicken served with roasted tomatoes, quinoa and tabbouleh over lavash flatbread.

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Ramsi’s Café on the World R AMSI K AMAR ood ethnic eateries express a loving regard for a place, a culture or a tradition. Ramsi’s Café on the World easily embodies all three as found in one of the most historic cities on Earth — Jerusalem.

The creation of Ramsi Kamar, a Palestinian Catholic who emigrated to the U.S. in 1983 to get a college education, this Highlands restaurant expresses a celebration of diversity that would do the United Nations proud.

“I wanted a place that had the hustle and bustle of Old Jerusalem, crowded and diverse, and yet where people share a spirit of harmony,” Kamar said. “To me, our biggest accomplishment is that 100 percent of America is welcome here.”

After his father died as a civilian casualty in the 1967 war, Kamar grew up with his mother, two brothers and a sister in the back room of a store on the Via Dolorosa, a street prominent in Christian tradition. “I came (to America) hungry, desperate to get an education so that I could feed my family back home and have freedom,” Kamar said.

His effor ts led to a degree in mechanical engineering at Iowa State.Then he moved to Lexington to earn his master’s degree at the University of Kentucky. While there, he worked parttime at off-campus restaurants, eventually snagging an opportunity as a kitchen helper at Bravo Pitino, the popular Lexington restaurant opened by Rick Pitino, who was then U of K basketball coach.

“I gradually worked my way up to being a captain, doing tableside cooking,” Kamar said. He also found romance there, meeting his wife, the former Rhonda Bowles of Greensburg, Ky., as a co-worker.

After graduation, he came to Louisville in 1991 to work at the Bravo then at 6th and Main streets.

Three years later, he and Rhonda decided to take a chance and go out on their own. They opened Ramsi’s in November 1994, he said, “with used equipment, just 42 seats, a small residential-grade gas service in the old kitchen … and did all of it using credit card debt.

“It was challenging,” he added, with obvious understatement.

It was also an immediate hit. The storefront café was distinctively different, with vegetarian items well represented on the brief menu. And if chair backs were sometimes smacked by the

opening door, or chill February breezes blasted into the dining room, it somehow all added to Ramsi’s charm.

Nowadays, both the menu and the building have evolved.

“We started with only 12 items. Now we have 100,” Kamar said.“I don’t cook for myself. I cook for grandmothers, parents, kids, everybody who comes in.”

As an example, Kamar related how one group celebrating a friend’s 80th birthday requested barbecued ribs.

“I never had them, but we prepared them and it was a success,” Kamar said. He continued working on the recipe and eventually developed Ramsi’s “ribs of the Caribbean” dish, hickory-smoked

RAMSI’S CAFE ON THE WORLD

451-0700 | 1293 Bardstown Road

pork ribs with mango barbecue sauce. Now he loves them, and they sell well.

Similar favorites fill up a large, four-page menu that offers a virtual tour of world cuisine, from the Middle East and Asia to Italy and the Caribbean, that includes a diverse array of salads and nearly 30 vegetarian selections. Overall, the bill of fare reflects a soulful blend of Kamar’s upbringing in 3,800-year-old Jerusalem with his modern education. www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Fall 2007 25

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“Remember, I am an engineer, but now I build for diners,” Kamar said. “I don’t stereotype people and it can take me a long time to develop a meal. I will take a year or more, if I have to.”

Kamar’s eclectic worldview complements his perception of dining opportunities in Louisville.

“I never believed in borders or boundaries. I’m not concerned with being territorial,” he said. “Look at our freedom here, how you can try so much — Chinese, Italian, barbecue.”

He approaches his craft with an eye on quality, producing much in the kitchen, like vegan seitan (a wheat gluten meat substitute) and vegan cheese. “I’m not money-driven. I’m excellence-driven,” he said. “I only compete with myself to make it better and better.”

An accident in 1996 triggered the first evolution in the café’s space, after a car crashed into the building and forced renovation. Then, in 2004, management purchased the former Miller Pipe Organ building next door and added a new

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kitchen, expanded dining areas and an upstairs home.

“Once we got the construction guys in here, I didn’t want to let them go,” Kamar said. “They’ve been working ever since.”

Now Ramsi’s boasts more than 200 seats, spreading through the original streetfront dining room, a quiet “library” room, a newer dining room and a delightful grape arbor-covered patio patterned after a convent in the Middle Eastern city of Emmaus, scene of the New Testament story of Jesus appearing to two apostles the second day after Easter.

The patio, separated from the street by a frieze of brick and iron work, has as its centerpiece a large fountain of a nurturing woman holding two dolphins, and it also boasts an intricately carved marble bench, striking yellow and green Egyptian window shutters and casements on one wall and decorative wrought-iron work on the other.

Inside, the new dining room’s walls glow in warm ochre, mustard and coral tones.

Persian-style carpets cover the floors, and

old 10-foot-tall wooden doors with iron grates lean against one wall next to a huge sideboard holding a Renaissance-style marble bust and a huge brass samovar.

An eclectic blend of art ranges from Egyptian paintings on papyrus to a Picasso lithograph and antique posters. Striking photographs show Middle Eastern settings — and a photo of a brilliantly illuminated astronaut holding an American flag against the black sky of space. African wood carvings, even a large Chinese lacquered chest hang from the wall.

It all works, and it reflects Kamar’s colorful sentiment, “I don’t think of this country as a melting pot. I say it is more like a tossed salad.”

“I have it made.This is my home, not a shop I go to,” Kamar said. “This is like my family. We serve food. We have weddings.

We want to have a party every day.”

(BELOW) Ramsi’s Mezze: A Lebanese feast of baba ghanoush, falafel, hummus, roasted peppers, Kalamata olives, feta cheese and pita. (RIGHT) Basa’s Michael Ton (left) and Steven Ton.

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BASA MODERN VIETNAMESE

896-1016 | 2244 Frankfort Avenue

Basa Modern Vietnamese MICHAEL & STEVEN TON ince it opened in March, Basa has dazzled patrons with its contemporary take on Vietnamese cuisine. Brothers Steven and Michael Ton, co-owners of the Frankfort Avenue hotspot, spent five years assembling the restaurant of their dreams.The only thing they didn’t dream up at first was its location. “Louisville wasn’t even on the radar when we were conceiving the restaurant,” Steven admitted. “We were actually looking at other markets like Austin, Atlanta and San Francisco. Then our aunt invited us here a year and a half ago to check out this market.”

Their aunt — Huong “Coco” Tran, their mother’s sister — was the mastermind behind the popular old Eggroll Machine and Café Mimosa, and now Basa’s next-door neighbor Zen Garden.

After a weekend spent sampling Louisville’s best restaurants, the Ton brothers decided that Louisville was just the place for a restaurant. But they were skeptical whether Louisville was ready for the kind of upscale Vietnamese-accented restaurant they were planning. In the end, happily for local diners, they stuck with their original idea.

“We kind of tossed a couple of ideas around about what we wanted to do to fit into the community,” said Michael, 35. “We were steering towards comfort food because we knew it would work, but then we decided to stick with our initial plan which was modern Vietnamese with a French flair. Now that we’ve opened up, we find that there was a niche.”

Basa is a fish, similar to catfish, that is cultivated in Vietnam.

“We actually didn’t pick the name for the fish,” Steven Ton, 34, explained. “We picked it because it sounded kind of catchy and invokes a curiosity. People don’t know if it’s a Vietnamese restaurant or Spanish. That’s kind of what we wanted. We didn’t want to be pigeonholed into any box.”

Basa carries off a feel that’s both deliciously foreign and comfortably familiar at the same time. The interior is a tasteful combination of greens and reds with Asian art and photos from Vietnam on the wall.“Our regulars are like evangelists,” said Steven Ton, who serves as general manager. They go out and tell everybody about the restaurant. It’s like they almost own the place.”

The restaurant’s standout dishes include “shaking” beef (cubed filet mignon with garlic, watercress, organic cherry tomatoes, red onions and jasmine rice) and pan-seared ahi tuna. In one concession to the American palate, the level of heat has been turned down on a few of the dishes, but the entrees come with a variety of spicy hot sauces, not to mention a helping of banh ho thum, crispy shrimp crackers.

Michael Ton, Basa’s chef, said most of the entrees are based on authentic Vietnamese recipes. He said occasionally he has to scramble to procure the right ingredients. “We go to a lot of Vietnamese grocery stores,” Michael said. “Certain vegetables are not available here, but we manage to get them.You can grow Thai basil, but there are certain dry ingredients and sauces that we have to get from out of town.”

Michael and Steven started their culinary careers in Boston.

Michael worked his way through a number of kitchens after a humble beginning washing dishes. He graduated from the Culinary School of America in New York and returned to Boston, where he www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Fall 2007 27

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worked at a number of upscale spots including the Boston Harbor Hotel.

Steven waited tables while earning a biology degree from the University of Massachusetts. After a brief stint as an investment broker, he returned to the hospitality industry as manager of the Southland Wine Bar in Boston. Then he moved to North Carolina, where he made a connection with New York’s Myriad Group, which brought him in to manage Proof on Main in Louisville. Still, he said. “always in the back of my mind I wanted to open my own place.”

Over the years, Michael and Steven had gone to quite a few cities to try and figure out what made the best restaurants click. “We traveled everywhere,” Steven said.“We’d drive to New York.We went to San Francisco and Austin. We were able to accumulate a lot of knowledge. Most of all, we learned that we should focus on what we want to do and not try to please everybody.”

The next phase in Basa’s development is a second-floor lounge, which should be open in time for Derby 2008.“We want to do an Asian street food concept,” Steven said.“Something a little more edgy than the restaurant. Food a little bit bolder in flavors.

What we envision is guests going up there for a cocktail and a small plate, then coming to the restaurant for dinner.You’ll have that contrasting décor, which I think is neat and serves as a really dramatic background.”

Michael said they hope to make lounge customers feel as if they’ve taken a trip to Asia.“If you’ve ever been out in Asia at five in the morning, you know what I mean. It’s like eating food from a certain vendor and he or she specializes in only that. They bring out so much for that day, when they sell out that is it.”

Steven said the lounge will be run with the same eye toward quality that sets Basa apart. “It’s the little things that really accumulate into that whole experience,” he said. “I know that sounds clichéd, but it’s actually true. If you do the little things the guests might not notice right away, but it leaves an impression with them. It’s sort of like a building block, and at the end of the evening they get it.”

(OPPOSITE) A green papaya salad with tiger prawns, roasted peanuts and a sweet chili vinaigrette. (TOP) Basa’s poached pear with stone-fruit chutney and passionfruit coulis. www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Fall 2007 29

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people and places profiles

Queen of Sheba FERID ABDULLA & SELAM DENEKE here’s no need to worry if your Sega Wot is soaking into someone else’s Ye-beg tips at the Queen of Sheba: All the entrees for a table are served on one common platter. In Ethiopia, it’s all about sharing. “Back home there is no ‘mine, mine, mine’ plate.

You just dig in,” explained Queen of Sheba’s chef Selam Deneke.

“My whole family cooks, the males and the females. We enjoy food, let’s put it that way. We grew up seeing our parents cooking and inviting the extended family over all the time.That’s all we do: Drink and eat and eat and eat.”

Deneke’s husband Ferid Abdulla agreed, adding that sharing entrees enhances both the communal nature of eating together and the taste of the food. “When you eat on a platter, you can combine the dishes,” he said. “You can pick up different entrees in your hand, and when you put them in your mouth that flavor explodes in your mouth. It overwhelms you.”

Abdulla attributes all the magic in Queen of Sheba’s food to Deneke, even though she has no formal culinary training.“I’ve always been a picky eater when I go out,” she said. “I don’t like frying food or anything. It has to be fresh. That’s what I’m

QUEEN OF SHEBA

459-6301 | 3315 Bardstown Road

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BY GREG GAPSIS AND MICHAEL L. JONES | PHOTOS BY DAN DRY

promoting here. Eat fresh, eat together, enjoy your family and friends, and see the culture. Ethiopian culture is here.” She said she started learning to cook from her mother when she was only 8. “I would take the tomatoes out of the can and say, ‘Mommy, I’m cooking with you.’ She’d give me vegetables and I would toss them in there. We were playing in the kitchen.”

Ethiopia boasts one of the oldest cultures in the world, and it is the second most-populous nation in Africa. The Ethiopian Ge’ez Calendar marked its second millennium on Sept. 12, the country’s New Year. Ethiopia is mentioned 39 times in the Bible, and it is one of the oldest Christian nations, having converted in the 4th century A.D. The namesake of Abdulla and Deneke’s restaurant, the Queen of Sheba, was an ancient consort of King Solomon. And anyone who has ever owned a reggae album knows that former Ethiopian King Haile Selassie is a central figure in the Rastafarian faith.

Because of their country’s deep history, Abdulla said he and his wife strive to be true to the tradition at the Queen of Sheba.

“We try to be as authentic as we can with our restaurant,” he said. “We get our spices straight from Ethiopia. Everything is imported.You won’t be able to find them in local grocery stores.

All of our spices are organic spices from back home.”

The most popular spice is Berbere, a red chili powder that is used in Sega Wot (beef stew) and Kik Wot (red lentil stew) as well as other dishes. Berbere is so popular that

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Abdulla sells it and other impor ted Ethiopian spices through his website, www.ethiopianspice.com. “Our main product is spices,” he said. “We distribute them all over the country. But we also sell injera, a flat bread that we make right here in the restaurant. It goes anywhere from Miami to California. I’d say 90 percent of our customers are not from Ethiopia.

Ethiopian food is very popular in most major cities because of the flavor.”

Abdulla, 39, left Ethiopia for America at age 15. He moved to Louisville from Cincinnati to attend the University of Louisville. Deneke, 39, came to America in 1995. She settled in Washington, D.C., but met Abdulla while visiting relatives in Louisville. They’ve been together for 12 years, although they didn’t marry until 2002.They have two children.

The couple got into the restaurant business simply because Abdulla was convinced that his wife’s food was so good that it could make them rich. He talked her into opening their first restaurant,

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Abyssinia, on Frankfort Avenue. That incarnation lasted for a year before the couple moved their operation to 3315 Bardstown Road adjacent to America’s Best Value Inn and Suites (the former site of India Palace) and changed the restaurant’s name. “The majority of our customers are not from the hotel, they are just from all over,” Abdulla said. “I’d say East End, Highlands, Frankfort Avenue area. I’d say there are only 300-400 Ethiopians in Louisville, but lots of other people enjoy our food too.”

Abdulla and his wife have learned a great deal about the restaurant business over the last three years. He said the space they have now is a bit too big for their purposes, so they expect to move again in the next year or so. “Basically when we moved here, we were thinking about dancing and that didn’t work out the way we wanted it to work out,” Abdulla said.

“For weddings and stuff we do book this (dancing) area, but we have too big a place for what we do.We’d like to have a smaller

(ABOVE) Doro tips from Queen of Sheba.

A dish of sautéed chicken with green peppers, onions and Ethiopian spices served with a side of kik wot and injera flatbread. (LEFT) Queen of Sheba’s Ferid Abdulla and his wife Selam Deneke.

area. The Highlands would be our preference because that is where most of our customers live.”

Deneke said it doesn’t matter where she cooks as long as she has a kitchen.

Living with the recipes of her homeland for so long has changed her perspective on life. “I use to be a teacher,” she said. “I still love teaching kids. But now cooking is part of my life. I would say myself, I am about 90 percent vegetarian and that’s what you’ll find in my restaurant, although there are a lot of meat dishes also. I promote healthy eating. Once you try it, you don’t want to stop eating it. It’s not eat and go. I want people to really relax and enjoy the food. It’s hard to explain it.

I’m deep with food now.” www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Fall 2007 31

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Palermo Viejo FRANCISCO ELBL assion and discipline can focus a restaurant into a pure expression of culture and a place, even if it is half a world away. Francisco “Frank” Elbl demonstrates the truth of this premise in Palermo Viejo, the city’s only Argentine parrilla (grill), on Bardstown Road in the Highlands.

“We rely on native Argentines or people who have traveled to Argentina to be our critics,” Elbl said. “Our highest compliment is when they visit and tell us they feel at home, comfortable.”

Palermo Viejo comes from the heart and soul of Elbl’s family tradition. It has won high praise for both quality and consistent execution since opening in June 2001.

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Argentina is noted for its strong European heritage — there are more Italian and German names in the Buenos Aires phone book than Spanish — and a culture more varied than homogeneous, more continental than colonial.

Buenos Aires’ residents, nicknamed Porteños, style themselves as independent, proud and sophisticated.The traditional Porteño is committed to family and friends, believes in spending time with both, and making sure it is a good time.

Dr. Francisco Elbl, whose family came from Spain and Austria before settling in Buenos Aires, interned as a pediatric cardiologist in Louisville and returned from New York when he and his wife, Carmen, wanted to start their family. Louisville was appealing because, like Buenos Aires, it had “a temperate climate, beautiful open spaces, and friendly people,” the younger Elbl said.

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And strong family ties were part of the deal. Frank Elbl, his brother and two sisters were taken to Buenos Aires often to be with family and soak up the culture.

“We went back every other summer since I was two years old,” said Frank Elbl, who is now 36. All our cousins are like brothers and sisters,” Elbl said.“Palermo Viejo is the neighborhood my dad grew up in. It’s one of the oldest in Buenos Aires. Settled mostly by Italians [as its name evoking the largest city in Sicily implies], the cuisine included pastas, grilled meats and specialties like seafood, empanadas and gnocchi.” It also, obviously, gave its name to the family’s Louisville restaurant.

Elbl started working in restaurants when he was 17 and, after earning a business degree from Bellarmine University, got a job keeping the books for Club Grotto. Perhaps more comfortable as a chef than a bean counter, he got into the kitchen and also worked as host and ultimately front house manager.

“It was good experience. I saw the invoices for what was coming in, what was being done with it (in the kitchen), out to the servers and the customers,” Elbl said. “I also pitched in any time it was needed, like when the dishwasher didn’t come in or Bardstown Road breaking down the kitchen at night.That’s when I dreamed of some day owning my own restaurant.”

Despite that dream, Elbl left the kitchen for a 9-to-5 job to support his family after marrying his wife, Selena, in 1999. It took only two years for him to realize he had to get back into restaurant work.

Federico (“Fede”), his younger brother who had just spent 18 months in Buenos Aires working in a restaurant, helped spark the change.

“We knew that Louisville was open to pretty much any type of restaurant, and there wasn’t an Argentine one closer than Chicago,” Frank Elbl said.

“Everybody loved our family’s cooking and my dad’s grill work.We were going to do country cooking that was just from another country.”

As if the planets were coming into alignment, two prior offers fell through, and the old building that had housed Dedden’s Highland Fling became available. After three months of serious renovations dressing the place up with exposed brick, oak wood floors, a cozy bar and open kitchen, they were ready.

“It was as if we were meant to be here,” Elbl said. “It had parking in the rear, was small enough that we didn’t feel overwhelmed, and it was on Bardstown Road.”

The brothers hit the ground running and had immediate success. Elbl jokingly says because the ambience is “faux white

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tablecloth. … It looks nice, feels nice, but you can be comfortable here. It’s all about being comfortable, a whole lot of family feeling.”

That feeling is expressed in a menu whose recipes came over the years from friends and family, some bearing their names, e.g., Mom’s Pollos a la Portuguesa de Carmen or a friend’s Canellones de Mariana. The empanadas are from Grandmother Rosa’s recipes, and the grilling skills echo his father, “El Doctore.”

The classic Argentine Chimichurri, an Argentine steak sauce that’s green with herbs and rich with garlic, also comes from a family recipe.

The menu features traditional Argentine fare, which, like the country itself, adds a hint of an Italian accent: pastas, grilled cheeses and vegetables, light salads, fish and meat, all sorts of meat: chorizo sausage, chicken, short ribs, flank, rib eye and strip steaks cooked over the special charcoal-fired parilla, or grill.

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“In Argentina there are three cows for every person, but the meat is a little different, not as marbleized, because the cows actually walk,” Frank Elbl explained.

“Such grass-fed, free-range beef gets tough if you cook it too fast, so we use low heat and go slow. We had an architect design our grill, and it probably has almost half a ton of stainless steel in it.”

Palermo Viejo’s strong start was slowed, as were so many businesses, in the aftermath of 9/11. The brothers had to slash staff and become a team, carrying the restaurant through slow times.

“In the Spring of 2002, things started working out more, and it’s slowly been progressing ever since then,” Frank Elbl said.“It’s a very difficult life, and you have to love what you do or you’re not going to make it. You’ve got to be here in the morning, afternoon and evening.”

Federico, still single, sold his shares to Frank earlier this year and left on a grand tour through South America, Australia,

Asia, Russia; he most recently reported in from Sweden.

Frank Elbl gives high praise to his employees, pointing out that the new manager, Michelle Campbell, was only their second hire and her commitment has helped ensure success.

“We’re disciplined but not formal,” he said.“We become and work as friends and our customers become friends too.

At the heart of that affection is the quality of the place and its Argentine soul.

“We’re an upscale country restaurant without pressure,” Elbl said. “We don’t push specials every day and we’re not into timing tables. We don’t chase anyone out.

We want our guests to be comfortable and have a good time.” F&D (BELOW) Palermo Viejo’s parrillada de bifes: New York strip, rib eye steak, flank steak and house-made chorizo sausage served on a bed of fries and finished with chimichurri sauce.

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BY ROBIN GARR

The geographical dilemma:

Wine

Ethnic Fare

A

lthough there’s no formal rule of wine etiquette that requires it, just about everyone enjoys matching favorite dishes with wine from the same country or region. Chianti works just right with spaghetti and meatballs or a pizza Margherita. Boeuf Bourguignonne or coq au vin call for a fine French Burgundy. German sauerbraten requires a Riesling, and so it goes.

But when we turn to more exotic flavors of favorite ethnic dishes, we run into a wine lover’s geographical dilemma: The world’s great wine regions, by and large, follow temperate climate zones around the world. Great wine grapes thrive in Mediterranean climates like Italy and Spain and the sunny coasts of California and Australia; some cooler-climate grapes do well in colder continental regions like Germany and much of France, Argentina’s Andean foothills and New York’s Finger Lakes.

Many of the most exciting ethnic dishes, though, come from world regions that never developed a wine culture; in many cases, torrid tropical climes that hug the Equator, from South China, Thailand and Vietnam through India and the Middle East, Africa, the Caribbean and Mexico.

With limited exceptions fostered by modern agricultural technology — both China and India are making first steps into mass-market wine agribusiness — these 34 Fall 2007 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

countries aren’t known for their wines. In contrast with the beer scene (see Roger A. Baylor’s essay on light international lagers elsewhere in this issue), the difficulty with finding “ethnic wine” doesn’t lie in insipid industrial product but the lack of any product at all.

Faced with a flavorful dish that may range from a curry to a stir-fry to a plate of Jamaican jerk chicken, what’s an adventurous wine lover to do?

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Further complicating the issue, many smaller ethnic restaurants — the lovable, traditional “hole in the wall” spots — may not have a wine list at all, or may carry a limited selection of mass-market red, white and pink. Unless management is willing to wink at discreet bring-your-own (a practice forbidden by state law but sometimes quietly permitted), you’ll be drinking beer or a Coke with your meal in any event.

Before everyone despairs, let’s move on to the good news: It is entirely possible to come up with excellent food-and-wine pairings between traditional Western wines and diverse world ethnic dishes.

Quite a few of the city’s more upscale ethnic restaurants boast thoughtful, wellplanned wine lists that complement their fare, and staff capable of making recommendations that work. Asiatique and August Moon, Mojito, Saffron’s, Basa Modern Vietnamese and Maido Essential Japanese all fall into this happy category, just to name a few.

There’s also the dine-at-home option.

Whether you’re building your own exotic repast or bringing home dinner from an ethnic favorite, when you’re setting your own table, the sky — and perhaps your budget — is the only limit.

Let’s take a quick look at some specific world cuisines and tips on pairing wines with them.

Southeast Asian If you like your Thai or Vietnamese dishes spicy hot, then finding a wine to match can be challenging because a blast of hot chile peppers can wipe out the more delicate fruit flavors of wine, and following fivepepper heat with a glug of wine can be like pouring alcohol on a burn. One good choice is an inexpensive sparkling wine — a Spanish sparkling Cava or bubbly Italian Prosecco; or a sweeter wine. Or maybe most effective of all, albeit horrifying to wine snobs: A sweet sparkling Asti (the wine formerly known as Asti Spumante), or the very inexpensive, slightly sweet and fizzy Lambrusco.

China Chinese cuisine, like French or Italian, is too broad and diverse to sum up in a few words. But let’s try. If there’s one fair

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generalization about a Chinese banquet, it’s that you’ll enjoy a startling variety of ingredients and flavors. Over the course of the meal, you may see chicken, shrimp, fish, tofu, pork and beef, sometimes together in one dish. Many dishes will contain a stirfried mix of meat, vegetables and sauce, and those sauces may vary from sweet to hot to tangy. It’s not going to be possible to find a single wine to go with them all.

My advice: Consider the main course, and star t by focusing on its primary meat ingredient, sticking with basic “red wine with red meat, white wine with white meat” principle. Avoid high-alcohol and tannic (astringent) reds like big Cabernet Sauvignon in favor of a more subtle choice such as Pinot Noir. For your white, a Riesling would be hard to beat. The less common white grape Gewurztraminer is stereotypical with Chinese, but I’m not persuaded.

Japan Like China, Japan offers a diverse cuisine that can’t be solved with a single wine match. For most sushi, though, it’s hard to beat a crisp, fruity Sauvignon Blanc or, a somewhat more offbeat choice, the bone-dry and steely Grüner Veltliner of Austria. (This item has also become a standard with Vietnamese, and it’s no coincidence that Basa has a couple of good ones on its list.)

India, Africa and the Caribbean These disparate regions may seem like an odd mix, but a common principle unites many regional cuisines: Highly aromatic scents and flavors that include but aren’t limited to curries, and a range of spicy heat that may range from a gentle warmth to the fires of Hades. In the latter case, go with bubbly, as mentioned, or give up on wine and go with a beer.

For more aromatic dishes that hold back the heat — and indeed, as the default choice for just about any food-matching challenge — you can’t go wrong with the same two stalwarts that work so well with Chinese: Pinot Noir for your red; Riesling for your white. Put those two wines on your shopping list and you’ll be good to dine just about anywhere around the world. F&D www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Fall 2007 35

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BY ROGER A. BAYLOR

TRUE To kick off this sermon, I have a great ethnic joke to share. It’s suitable for all ages. Ready?

A guy walks into his favorite ethnic restaurant and orders the national culinary pride of Greece/Jamaica/Ethiopia/Sri Lanka/Nicaragua. Of course he wants a good beer to go along with the meal. Not unexpectedly, Budweiser, Miller and Coors are available, but he really wants beer from the same country as the food, so he orders the national beer of Greece/Jamaica/Ethiopia/Sri Lanka/Nicaragua. Ha ha ha! (An otherworldly silence falls. Pins drop. Crickets chirp.)

Um, you didn’t get the joke? All right. I’ll explain it to you at no extra charge.

T

hose mass-produced golden lager beers from places like Greece, Jamaica, Ethiopia, Sri Lanka and Nicaragua — all distantly descended from German brewing techniques — actually taste little different from Budweiser, Miller or Coors, though they cost twice the price. In contrast with the distinctive national cuisines that they accompany, these neutral brews reflect next to nothing about their culture or origin.They simply testify to the worldwide monolith of industrial-scale brewing.

The fact remains that a staggering majority of the planet’s finest beers are brewed in Europe, the British Isles and North America. While the late, great Frank Zappa, pithy social commentator and sometimes musician, was certainly right in suggesting that a country must have a beer to be a real country, he left out the corollary: Just because a country has a beer, it doesn’t necessarily follow that this beer is worth drinking.

To be sure, before the American microbrewing renaissance of the past two decades, imports were the only choice for those seeking something different to fill their beer glasses. These days,

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though, with knowledge about beer at an all-time high, the “shop for beer by national flag” approach takes on a decidedly ironic note, because it’s quickly apparent that most beers commonly “paired” with their national cuisines at ethnic eateries are nothing but under-hopped golden lagers of average strength. All around the world, these beers were bequeathed to the countries in question by now-departed European colonial overlords, which handily left behind a modern beer factory (or two or three) along the German lager model. In many cases, these factories may have since been expanded and modernized, but that job is customarily done by multinational brewing firms that continue to massproduce mediocre beer, very similar to the mass-produced brews that too many Americans persist in drinking every day, too.

When we talk about exporting these look-alike “national” beers, things get even worse: These golden lagers with their average strength and minimal hopping have much to lose from transit time and the environmental stress of international shipping; they often are noticeably eroded by the time the liquid hits the

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lips. Consequently, entire generations of earnest barroom geographical explorers have grown to adulthood thinking that the most noteworthy flavor characteristic of imported lager beer is cardboard.

And so, in the burgeoning worlds of beer and food enthusiasm, we encounter a central conundrum: The more you learn about ethnic food, the more you become eager to pair different styles of beer with the different styles of ethnic food. And, unfortunately, the more you learn that you’re unlikely to find different styles of beer from the country of the food’s origin … unless the ethnic cuisine in question happens to come from Europe’s traditional brewing powers, the British Isles or North America.

I see two ways for the beer lover to cope with this conundrum.

First, from package store to eatery and then home, make your feast moveable.

Knowingly trade the slightly diminished returns of a reheated carry-out meal for the heightened experience of pairing quality beer styles with ethnic menu items in the comfort of your own home.

Specificity lies outside the scope of this overview, but let’s consider a few broad style groupings as a starting point.

Here we eschew the more extreme examples, because (with a few exceptions) the beer world’s truly massive examples of indulgence (“triple” IPA, “quadruple” Belgian) overwhelm, not balance, almost all conceivable meals with the possible exception of dessert. For the moment, the idea is for the chosen beer to complement and enhance worldwide cuisines.

For example …

German-style Hefe-Weizen, Belgian White/Wit They’re wheat ales of light to medium body, with higher levels of carbonation and flavors that range across a typically fruity (bananas and apples in the former, lemons and orange citrus in the latter) and spicy (cloves; coriander) spectrum.Try them with lighter examples of Asian cuisine.

American-style Pale, Amber and Brown Traditional golden lagers lack the stamina to combine with food to create flavor combinations; at best, they serve the same

function as sparkling water. Instead, I recommend medium-bodied, firmly hopped American flagship microbrewing styles as the better choice for “table beer.”

Pales, Ambers and Browns differ slightly in their use of malt, and usually possess sufficient piney hopping to balance North African or Middle Eastern olive-oil scented dishes. For pungent curries, India Pale Ale and heavier-bodied Robust Porter are gratifying options.

Belgians across the stylistic board The breathtaking pairing possibilities offered by Belgium’s diverse beer-making culture are far too many to be enumerated here. I’ve mentioned Wit for lighter ethnic fare, and submit further that Abbey-style Dubbels and Tripels and a new generation of strong, hoppy golden ales (Houblon Chouffe; Urthel Hop-It; De Ranke XX Bitter) make fine choices for weightier feasts, ranging from harissa-fiery couscous to an Argentine mixed grill, and passing through rich Caribbean gumbos and West African peanut stew.

My second coping tactic: Share your beer discoveries with the management at your eatery of choice, and support those who’ve already gotten it.

Some ethnic eateries have merely shrugged and slain the conundrum by thinking outside the Bud (and Sapporo, and Singha, and Taj Mahal). Verily, even Blue Moon at the neighborhood taqueria is better than Carta Blanca (just don’t get me started about Miller Chill), and as time passes, market forces will put Sierra Nevada Pale Ale and Aecht Schlenkerla (smoked) Marzen alongside the humdrum golden lagers.

Louisville’s prime example of successfully joining authentic national cuisine with creative beer choices remains Maido Essential Japanese, where the sushi and Osaka-style appetizers are scrupulously authentic, and a zesty beer list is filled to the brim with funky Belgians and hoppy American ales.

Some of these brews are rather extreme, and provide the maximum opportunity to answer at least one eternal food and beer pairing question: Should it really be legal to inhale wasabi and swallow Stone Ruination Ale at the same time?

That’s my kind of Speedball. F&D www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Fall 2007 37

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BY JERRY SLATER

I

n the increasingly familiar realm of spirits, sake remains relatively mysterious.

Most imbibers have started to grasp the difference between blended and single-malt Scotch, between wine in a box and estate-grown single-varietal wine, and between a Budweiser and an artisanal, craft-brewed ale. But premium sake, served chilled, remains unfamiliar to all but a few cognoscenti.

I think the analogy between sake and beer is especially poignant, not as a judgment, but as a value. A cold Budweiser can be quite refreshing after mowing the lawn, just as shooting down warm sake at a karaoke bar can heighten a night of entertainment for many. But like Bud versus Sam Smith’s, premium sake is so different from its boxed and warmed brother as to be a different product.

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Consider the mentioned Japanese pastime, karaoke: The difference between warm sake and premium sake is like the difference between your best friend belting out her favorite drunken-karaoke version of Alison Krauss and actually seeing Alison Krauss, with full band and all, at The Palace, no less.

Where does sake fit into the traditional categories of beer, wine and liquor? Let’s start from the beginning with some definition and categories, discussing the various types of high-end sake before describing their taste. Sake is a fermented rice product, similar to beer in its brewing methods.Three-fourths of all sake is called futsu-shu (“normal”) in Japanese, and might be considered equivalent to table wine.

The remaining one-fourth of production is known as tokutei meishoshu (“special designation”) sake, and comprises all the categories defined as premium sake.

The breakdown of categories within the high-end tokutei meishoshu are printed on the label and indicate levels of quality.

Two criteria distinguish sake at this level.

The first is the optional addition of distilled alcohol, known as jozo. Most futsu sake has distilled alcohol added to increase volume and potency. Honjozo, on the other hand, is a premium sake with distilled alcohol added to open up the fragrance and lighten the flavors. Honjozo represents the first level of quality in premium sakes.

Junmai, meaning “pure rice,” is the next level of distinction. Not only is there no additional distilled alcohol, but there are no additional starches, sugars, or adjuncts of any kind in the brewing process. Junmai, like honjozo, used to be made with 30 percent of the outer coating of the rice milled away before fermentation, leaving only the interior of each grain.

Although it no longer applies to junmai, milling the rice is the next important distinction in quality sake. Milling the rice before fermentation removes oils and proteins that can create unwanted flavors.

In general, the more the exterior of the rice is polished away, the more desirable the end product will turn out. But removing that much raw material — sometimes as much as 65 percent of the rice — drives the price of premium sake skyward. Gingo is the term for sake in which a minimum of 40 percent of the rice was ground away.

Daigingo identifies sake with at least 50 percent of the rice removed.

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When a gingo or daigingo sake has no distilled alcohol added, junmai becomes a prefix, as in junmai gingo or junmai daigingo.

Some argue that sake with this junmai purity label is not necessarily better. Master producers claim the careful addition of alcohol brings out desired aromas and flavors. Junmai or not, gingo and daigingo sakes represent only about 8 percent of all sakes produced. They are the artisan equivalent to first-growth Bordeaux or aged single-barrel Bourbon.

Sake is usually drunk from small cups called choko, but I prefer mine in a whitewine glass, especially if I am eating. Swirling the sake opens up the delicate aromas, much as swirling does with wine. In fact, thinking of premium sake in the same way as wine offers a good paradigm for tasting.

The first “good” (the host’s reference, not mine) sake that I tasted immediately reminded me of Sauvignon Blanc. High floral notes on the nose, citrus and stone fruit on the palate, and a savory, almost umami, sea-salt character on the end. If that sounds like something out of Robin Garr’s wine column, you have been paying attention. In fact, here are the notes I took while adjectives were being blurted out in a tasting with a spirits distiller, a sommelier, a chef and myself.

Sho Chiku Bai, Nama Sake (organic) — A California producer following traditional methods. Clean like low alcohol vodka.

Some say soy, or salty, on the finish. The distiller suggests “amyl ethyl-acetate.”

Translated from chemistry, that’s a fermentation by-product that can impart tropical fruit characteristics, consistent with my notes of pineapple and banana.

Tozai, Junmai, “Living Jewel” — Fresh rain, grassy, hint of anise, grapefruit zest.

Tamanoikari, Ginjo — Toasted grain, green tea, bit of residual sugar on the finish.

Kanbara, Junmai Ginjo, “Bride of the Fox” — Honeysuckle nose, raw honey and apricot middle — the crowd favorite.

Kuromatsu-Hakushika, Junmai Daiginjo — Very clean flavors, underripe stone fruit, nectarine, maybe green apple, kiwi and tangerine oil with a hint of ginger.

All of these sakes pair well with food, especially sushi and izakaya style plates, but they can also go nicely with bolder Western flavors like thinly sliced country ham, my favorite. F&D www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Fall 2007 39

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BY DAVID LANGE

T

he many legends about the birth of tea are as varied as the many types of teas that are cultivated worldwide today. One of the most common legends tells of Shennong, the legendary Emperor of China around 2737 BC, inventor of agriculture and Chinese medicine, who was once sipping from a bowl of boiling water. The wind blew, and a few leaves from a nearby tree fell into his water and began to change its color.The ever inquisitive and curious monarch took a sip of the brew and was pleasantly surprised by its flavor and its restorative properties. A variant of the legend tells that the emperor tested the medical properties of various herbs on himself; some of them were poisonous, but he found tea worked as an antidote.

Tea has played a significant role in Asian culture for centuries as a staple beverage, a curative, and a symbol of status.

It is not surprising that its discovery is ascribed to religious or royal origins.

Whether it is cultivated in China, Japan, India, Korea or Sri Lanka, tea has captured the hearts and palates of the modern world. Tea is the second most consumed beverage in the world today, trailing only water on a global scale.

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Enjoying tea in its loose leaf form is the absolute “paved road to Nirvana,” but this road must be traveled with care and expertise.

The traditional method of making a cup of tea is to place loose tea, either directly or in a tea infuser, into a tea pot, then pour boiling water (or very hot water for some types) over the tea. During the second half of the 20th century, tea bags have largely supplanted loose tea in the Western world; this has enabled brewing directly in a cup or mug. More about this below.

Historically in China, tea is served in a number of infusions.The first infusion is made to “wash” the tea but is immediately poured out; then the second and further infusions are drunk.The third through fifth are nearly always considered the best infusions of tea, although different teas open up differently and may require more infusions of boiling water to bring them to life.

Typically, the best temperature for brewing tea can be determined by its type. Tea leaves that undergo little or no oxidation — green or white teas, for example — are best brewed at lower temperatures around 175°F, while teas with longer oxidation periods should be

brewed at higher temperatures at the boiling point, 212°F. The exact amount of tea to be used for a given amount of water is of critical importance, but is the subject of some confusion. Common knowledge in popular culture (one spoon per person and one for the pot, for instance) is a guide, but the nature and quality vary among different teas and even within the same garden from season to season. A basic recipe calls for one slightly heaped teaspoon of tea for each 8-ounce cup of water prepared as above.This may be varied according to tea and taste. A stronger Assam tea to be drunk with milk may be prepared with more tea leaves, while a more delicate high-grown tea such as Darjeeling might be made with a little less tea, to avoid its stronger mid-flavors overwhelming the tea’s “champagne” notes.

Another way to taste tea throughout the entire process, is this: Add hot water to a cup containing the leaves, and after about 30 seconds, taste the tea. As the tea leaves unfold (“the Agony of the Leaves”) more of the leaf is exposed to the hot water and the taste evolves. Continuing this from the very first flavors to the point beyond which

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the tea is quite stewed will allow an appreciation of the tea throughout its entire length.

With the turn of the last century, a drastic change came to tea and its preparation. Bluntly put, “Nirvana became polluted.” In 1907, American tea merchant Thomas Sullivan began distributing samples of his tea in small silk bags secured with a drawstring. Consumers soon noticed that they could simply leave the tea in the bag for brewing, and better still, re-use the bag with fresh tea. However, the commercial potential of this packaging would not be fully realized until later on. During World War II tea was rationed. In 1953, Tetley launched the tea bag in the UK, and it was an immediate success. The convenience of the tea bag revolutionized how the British drink their tea: the traditional tea pot has given way to making tea in a cup with a tea bag.

Tea leaves are packed into a small tea bag, usually made of paper. Its ease and convenience has made tea bags popular.

However, the tea used in tea bags — called “fannings” or “dust” in the industry — is actually the waste product left over after the higher quality loose leaf tea has been sorted. It is commonly held among tea aficionados that this method provides an inferior taste and experience. What’s more, many people can detect a taste from the paper used for the bag, detracting from the tea’s flavor. Because fannings and dust are a lower quality of tea to begin with, tea bags are less finicky when it comes to brewing time and temperature.

But wait, there’s more! Bag tea is also considered less well-flavored because dried tea loses its flavor quickly on exposure to air. Most bag teas (although not all) contain leaves broken into small pieces; the greater surface area to volume ratio of the leaves in tea bags exposes them to more air, so they go stale faster.

Loose tea leaves, on the other hand, are likely to be in larger pieces, or entirely intact.

Also, breaking up the leaves for use in tea bags extracts their flavored oils, and the small size of the bag does not allow leaves to diffuse and steep properly Now however, the direction of tea is changing again, and the “road to Nirvana” is being repaired, with the introduction of the tea pyramid. The new “pyramid tea bag” has an unusual design that addresses

two of connoisseurs’ arguments against paper tea bags. First, its three-dimensional, pyramidal shape allows more room for the tea leaves to expand while steeping; and because the bags are made of nylon mesh, they do not impart flavors to the tea as paper does.These characteristics allow the delicate flavors of gourmet selections (such as white tea) to shine through.

In one negative, the pyramid bags have been criticized as being environmentally unfriendly, since the synthetic material does not break down in landfills as loose tea leaves and paper tea bags do.

Because of this, many manufacturers are now experimenting with silk mesh to use instead of nylon in pyramids.

Tea presentation and enjoyment reached a new level with the introduction of flowering teas, created in the past 20 years in China. These teas, also known as blooming teas, performance teas, and display teas, among other names, consist of hand-sewed individual tea leaves forming a ball. These are designed to perform an action when steeped in hot water, often unfurling into decorative flower-like arrangements. Flowering teas are usually prepared in glass or other transparent cups or mugs so that the performance can be seen. Varieties include small, silvery green tea balls which open to release the flowers inside, and teas that are shaped into objects such as plants and animals which expand or change.

Most if not all flowering tea comes from China; other tea producing countries such as India and Sri Lanka have not picked up this trend. Common flowers used in flowering teas include globe amaranth, carnation, chr ysanthemum, jasmine, marigold and rose. When added to water just off the boil, flower ball teas will slowly open, or “blossom,” into the form of a chrysanthemum-like flower.These teas can be refreshed several times by adding more water as needed, from 5 to 15 times depending on the variety. Flowering teas are fragrant, aromatic teas that do not tend to get bitter with extended steeping.

Tea does not have to be dull.Whether you enjoy the earthiness of black tea, the grassiness of green tea, or the aromas of spice and floral from herbal tea, you remain on the road to calming relaxation, a journey that can culminate with sensory “Nirvana” or enduring, transcendental happiness. F&D www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Fall 2007 41

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recipes louisville’s restaurant favorites

BY ROBIN GARR | PHOTOS BY DAN DRY

MAYAPÁN CHILAQUILES

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Mayán Café’s Mayapán Chilaquiles (SERVES 2 ) We doubt that the world will ever be ready for chilaquiles on the menu at Taco Bell, yet this filling treat is one of Mexico’s favorite dishes. Pronounced “Chee-lah-kee-lay” and tracing its history back to the Aztec “chil-a-quilitl,” this layered plate of fried tortillas, spicy salsa or mole and cheese is a popular player on the Mexican breakfast table.

Indeed, in the unhappy event that you’ve been a bit over-indulgent, chilaquiles are considered as effective a hangover cure as the fabled menudo. (Better yet, unlike menudo, which picks up a distinctive odor of beef tripe that many Anglos find offputting, there’s nothing in chilaquiles to bother the most tender of tummies.)

Chilaquiles are a favorite all over Mexico and wildly popular in Yucatán, says Bruce Ucán, owner and chef of Louisville’s Mayán Café. On its native ground, the dish is hearty peasant fare, often served to bulk up a Sunday brunch (and, perhaps, to soothe any recriminations from the night before).

At Mayán Café, however, Ucán reinvents chilaquiles as a more elegant item that retains the hearty, comfort-food feeling of the original with a bit more refinement, turning the breakfast treat into an attractively plated main dish suitable for dinne. Built on a base of freshly hand-made Mayan tortillas and filled with mixed grilled vegetables and delicate white Mexican cheese, it’s filling yet meatless, making it a splendid choice for vegetarians.

Dubbed “Mayapán Chilaquiles” after an ancient Mayan ruin in the Yucatán, it’s $13 on the Café’s dinner menu. Mayapán Chilaquiles are surprisingly easy to make at home using ordinary ingredients (only the masa harina flour and Mexican cheeses might take some searching, but any local Mexican grocery should have them).

FOR THE TOMATO SAUCE 4 Roma tomatoes 1 /2 red onion 1 clove garlic 1 cup water Salt and black pepper 1 /2 cup extra virgin olive oil 1 1 1 2 1 8

FOR THE FILLING medium zucchini small or 1/2 of a large eggplant large portobello mushroom cap tablespoons vegetable oil tablespoon sesame oil ounces coarsely grated Mexican Manchego, Chihuahua or Queso Fresco cheese

FOR THE TORTILLAS 1 cup masa harina flour 2 /3 cup hot water FOR PLATING AND GARNISH /2 cup tomato sauce Grilled asparagus Crisp, deep-fried spinach leaves Chopped tomatoes Sour cream 1

1. Make the tomato sauce. Chop the onion and garlic. Put the tomatoes, onion, half of the garlic and the water in a blender, and blend on high. Place the rest of the garlic and one tablespoon of the olive oil in a saucepan and cook until the garlic is brown. Add the tomato mixture from the blender and cook slowly for 30 minutes,

seasoning with salt and pepper. Set aside.

2. Prepare the vegetable filling. Cut the zucchini, eggplant and portobello mushroom into thick slices and grill them all together in a little vegetable oil. As they brown, chop them into small chunks; season with the sesame oil. Set aside.

3. Make tortillas. Put the masa harina (available at Mexican food stores) in a small bowl and stir in the hot water. Knead it gently until you have a firm dough, adding a little more water or masa harina if needed.

4. Form the masa dough into six small balls. Put each ball between sheets of cling wrap and press it flat with the bottom of a heavy bowl.You’ll end up with soft, 1/4 -inchthick tortillas about 3 inches in diameter.

Grill them over medium heat on a dry iron skillet until they start to brown, just a minute or so on each side.

5. Spoon some grilled vegetables onto the top of each tortilla, and top each with a share of the grated cheese. Heat for a moment or two until the cheese starts to melt, then stack three tortillas on each plate to make a tower or pyramid.

6. Pour warm tomato sauce on and around each tower. Lean a few grilled asparagus stalks against each tower ; garnish with crispy fried spinach leaves and chopped tomatoes if desired, and finish with stripes of sour cream from a squeeze bottle. F&D

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people and places ethnic markets

BY ROBIN GARR | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

A World of Food

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ETHNIC MARKETS If you’re an adventurous “foodie” who loves to cook and gets as much of a kick out of touring the world on your dinner table as I do,then your grocery list probably looks something like mine:A weird blend of the familiar (chicken,milk,peanut butter) and the unusual (Gai lan,Daikon and Chayote).

Did he say Gai lan,Daikon and Chayote?

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people and places ethnic markets

I

f you’re working from a cookbook that features ingredients as exotic as these (a broccoli-like Chinese dish, a giant white Japanese radish and a mild, squash-like veggie from Mexico), you’ll be as happy as I am that Louisville has come a long way since those not-so-long-ago days when food lovers would drive to Chicago or New York City to load the car with rare comestibles from Little Italy, Greek Village and Chinatown. Not to mention such onetime rarities as real bagels and croissants.

We’ve come a long way, foodies. Thanks in some measure to increasing interest in ethnic cookery, and in large measure to the blooming of diverse immigrant and refugee communities over a generation, Louisville’s interpretation of “ethnic” has grown up. Where pizza and perhaps chow mein used to mark the outer limits of our culinary daring, we now reach out to every quarter of the globe in pursuit of dining adventure.

BY ROBIN GARR | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

Dozens of authentic eateries help satiate this hunger for the exotic; and for the many of us who love to try it at home, we enjoy a growing cadre of food shops of a dozen ethnic flavors.

Louisville’s ethnic food shops range in size from tiny storefronts to virtual supermarkets, and they span the map from Mexico and the Caribbean through Europe to Africa and on around the globe. Drop in on just about any of them, and you’ll find the whirl of unfamiliar languages, scents and sounds as exciting as a brief visit to a foreign country.

To serve as your quick guide, we’ve put together a comprehensive list of ethnic markets in the region. Along with brief descriptions of each, we’ll offer tastes of a few unusual but delicious ingredients you’ll find there … ingredients you may have never tried, ingredients that you’re not likely to find at Kroger’s; new-to-you items with exciting flavors that we think you’ll enjoy.

A world of spices can be found at Creation Gardens.

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GENERAL AM PM MART 1231 Gilmore Lane, 962-9092 If your food-shopping map shows only the East End, you’ll need to get a larger map to take full advantage of the best ethnic options the city has to offer. Many of our recent immigrants have settled in Southern and Southeastern Louisville, and quite a few of the best ethnic-food shops have followed. AM PM Mart may look like a small convenience market, but its tightly packed quarters offer a remarkable diversity of ethnic items that start in the Middle East but reach out to Eastern Europe, Africa and Asia.

CREATION GARDENS 609 E. Main Street, 587-9012 www.whatchefswant.com Once the private preserve of restaurateurs, Creation Gardens now opens its doors to any consumer who’s seeking fine, restaurant-quality produce and other gourmetstyle ingredients including many rare and difficult-to-source items. Tiny, perfect baby vegetables? Pomegranate puree? Green peppercorns by the oversize jar? Exotic cheeses? A remarkable array of fresh spices? You want ’em, chances are they’ve got ’em. For the truly decadent, if not so politically correct, repast, Creation Gardens is probably the only place in town where you’ll find whole lobes of fresh foie gras.

LOTSA PASTA 3717 Lexington Road, 896-6361 www.lotsapastalouisville.com There’s a golden shopping cart with my name on it at this St. Matthews landmark, honoring all the bucks I’ve spent here since it opened in its original Highlands location in 1982. It retains its smiling Italian-accented name although it has long since expanded to incorporate a whole world of speciality items, canned goods, cheeses and deli meats and more. Whether you’re seeking a jar of Bosnian hot-pepper avjar spread or genuine bucatini pasta from Abruzzo to make your pasta all’Amatriciana authentic, you’ll find it here … not to mention a muffuletta sandwich as good as you’ll get in New Orleans.

VALU MARKET 5301 Mitscher Ave., 361-9285 (Also Mid-City Mall and Hurstbourne). www.valumarket.com This small but growing local market

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chain hasn’t grown so large that it has forgotten the merits of personal, neighborly customer service. Management at each of its three locations is particularly attentive to the needs and wishes of its neighborhood clientele, and that’s a good thing whether you’re in Hurstbourne or in the Highlands. The South End branch, though, scores high with fanciers of world foods, because it serves this neighborhood’s remarkably diverse ethnic community with what has to be the city’s most comprehensive selection of exotic produce and international canned goods and specialty items. Many of its products are made on the premises, including Italian-style breads, sausages and fresh mozzarella cheese.

AFRICAN DAROU SALAM 2202 Buechel Ave., 671-8382 From Northern Africa through the Sahara to the Serengeti and the south, you’ll find the full range of Africa’s diverse cuisines represented at this small, intriguing shop just off Old Bardstown Road near the southern end of the Buechel Bypass. Don’t be shy about asking for help with unfamiliar ingredients … or an Afro-Pop CD.

ARABIAN/MIDDLE EASTERN AL WATAN BAKERY 3711 Klondike Lane, 458-6000 Many foodies know Al Watan primarily as a small, friendly and delicious Palestinian restaurant just off Hikes Lane; but next time you’re out for a falafel or some hummus, take a moment to browse the freshly baked Arabian breads and pastries (as well as a small selection of canned goods and other regional necessities) that fill the larger space next door. I’ve never been entirely clear on the names of many of the baked goods, which aren’t labeled in English; but I’ve never been disappointed in anything I’ve pointed out and taken away, from tender oversize pita-like flatbreads to a golden, ring-shaped loaf the size of a Frisbee.

SUMER FOOD MART 3027 S. Fourth St., 636-3366 Another of those ethnic markets that mysteriously look tiny but find a way to fit a lot into a small space, Sumer provides a strong selection of Middle Eastern items from flatbreads, herbs and spices to beans, grains and frozen halal meats.

ASIAN AND CHINESE ANNA’S ORIENTAL 426 Kopp Lane, Clarksville, IN., 282-4186 Filipino ingredients are the specialty, with good representation from other Asian countries.

CHOI’S ASIAN MARKET 607 Lyndon Lane, 426-4441 Location, location, location makes Choi’s a particular favorite with East End foodies, as its good-size quarters in Lyndon spell convenience. Most of the city’s other Asian markets cluster from Buechel to the South End. But that’s not all: Choi’s is modern, convenient and friendly, and its spacious shelves carry a wide selection of foods from all over Asia as well as the basics from Mexico.

DA HUA 7100 Preston Highway, 964-4447 Billed as the region’s Asian super market, Da Hua covers as much space and appears as fully stocked as all but the most mega of American-style mega-marts. Like most of the larger Asian shops, it doesn’t limit its wares to China but covers the entire Far East, with a good range of meats and vegetables and live seafood and fish as well as a bewildering array of rice, noodles and canned goods.

DIXIE ORIENTAL 3900 Bardstown Road, 473-1922 A good selection of Chinese, Korean and Japanese ingredients. I’ve occasionally encountered a language barrier that can make it difficult to ask detailed questions, but point and smile and you’ll get by.

LANCETA TRADING COMPANY 3435 Breckenridge Lane, 495-0255 Asian with a distinct accent from the Philippines.

ORIENTAL GARDEN 4210 Bishop Lane, 479-9830 Southeast Asia meets China in this small grocery that appears to be associated with the adjacent Oriental Star restaurant just off Newburg Road.

ORIENTAL SUPERMARKET 1211 Gilmore Lane, 966-0400 Another of my Asian favorites, this store at the corner of Preston Highway www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Fall 2007 47

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and Gilmore Lane doesn’t look overly large on the outside, but when you step through the doors, it magically seems much bigger within. Here, too, groaning shelves bear a heavy load of ingredients from all over Asia including canned goods, produce, frozen food, meats, poultry and fish.

INDIAN

Louisville’s growing Latino community supports a similarly fast-growing cadre of taquerias, panaderias and tiny grocery stores, and I’ve found them all interesting, friendly and welcoming to Anglos even if we don’t speak Spanish very well.

INDIA BAZAAR 11324 Maple Brook Drive, 327-5001 Modern and bright, this small store off Westport Road in the East End should provide any ingredient you’re likely to find in a good Indian cookbook.

LA TROPICANA 5215 Preston Highway, 964-5957 The consensus pick among local “foodies” for selection and size, La Tropicana is a reliable choice for everything from fresh tortillas to homemade chorizo sausages to wrap in them.

PATEL BROTHERS INTERNATIONAL GROCERIES 1834 S. Hurstbourne Parkway, 499-9791 Formerly known as Shalimar and situated just a few doors from the Indian restaurant of that name in a large shopping center just off I-64, this appears to be Louisville’s largest and best-stocked source of Indian ingredients, ranging from bulk rice and spices to frozen packaged convenience Indian foods and fresh produce and herbs.

All the following smaller shops, some of them associated with restaurants, are also recommended. Listed alphabetically:

SABJI MANDI 4746 Bardstown Road, 499-6776 A broad selection of Indian groceries and spices makes this another go-to place if you’ve got curry in mind. If you’ve got Bollywood in mind, Sabji Mandi also offers a large selection of Indian movies for your rental pleasure.

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MEXICAN / LATINO

LOS COMPADRES, 616 Highway 131, Clarksville, Ind., 948-9785 LA FAVORITA, 6201 Preston Highway, 964-2639 LA PREFERIDA TIENDA, 4756 Bardstown Road, 671-0009 SANTA FE, 3000 S.Third St., 634-3722 LA SIERRA TARASCA, 6501 Shepherdsville Road, 964-1430 LA TAPATIA, 8106 Preston Highway, 961-9153 LA VILLA SUPERMARKET, 5211 Preston Highway, 964-7567

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RUSSIAN AND MORE GOLDEN KEY INTERNATIONAL FOOD MARKET 3821 Bardstown Road, 485-9009 Run by Russian immigrants, Golden Key stocks a surprising selection of specialty and gourmet items from Russia and much of Eastern Europe, along with a few international surprises. Staff is very helpful and fluent in English.

INTERNATIONAL STAR SUPER-MARKET 9715 Taylorsville Road, 261-0707 Just as friendly and just as fluent, the proprietors here preside over a selection of specialty fare that’s just as international as the name suggests, but the focus is on Europe, with emphasis on Russia and the Slavic lands.

VIETNAMESE Louisville’s Vietnamese community is heavily concentrated in the South End neighborhoods near Iroquois Park, and so, naturally, are the markets that serve them. All three of the following are recommended; Dong Phuong is particularly popular for its fresh fish, which usually come in on Fridays.

BINH PHUOC, 5301 S.Third St., 366-7002 DONG PHUONG, 6705 Strawberry Lane, 363-0208 VIETNAM, 5019 S.Third St., 361-7846 F&D

From exotic olive oils to whole roasted ducks, rice cakes, canned ackees or pink dragon fruit, there’s a world of intriguing, exotic ingredients at Louisville’s ethnic markets.

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recipes top chef recipes

PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

Chef Armand Luescher

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of Craftsman I

t was more than 60 years ago, and World War II was still raging, when young Armand Luescher put in his first day of work in a bakery shop in his hometown, the tiny village of Menziken near Lucerne in Switzerland.

Switzerland, a neutral nation, escaped the worst of the war, but Luescher recalls that times were hard, then and a few years later when he began his formal apprenticeship as a student baker in 1947.

“More than 60 years baking … it’s been a very long time,” Luescher reminisced. Indeed. A long career as baker and pastry maker took him from Switzerland to France and Finland before he migrated to Louisville in 1960. He worked here at the old Kraus Bakery, Hans Bakery and the candy division of Ehrler’s bakeries; since 1995 he has toiled happily at Sullivan University, where he is now associate executive pastry chef at The Bakery.

“Our student interns at The Bakery have a very special opportunity to be able to work with Chef Armand and learn how to continue the classical craft of pastry art,” said Chef John L. Richards, Sullivan’s director of food and beverage operations.

“To watch Armand work is to watch the ‘dance’ of a skilled

musician or artist. Poetry in motion,” Richards said. “You can see a lifetime devoted to a craft that brings smiles to people’s faces and warmth to people’s hearts. Armand is a rare breed of craftsman who has devoted a lifetime to a particular passion.”

Now he’s 75, and thinking about retiring, maybe, one of these days. “I have loved it and I still do, but there comes a time sometimes when you have to say, well, this is enough.” Still, he says, he loves his work enough that he’s not ready to hang up his toque just yet.

Sullivan is delighted to have him, Richards said. Before this great talent retires, the university’s culinary program hopes he’ll continue passing on his skills to many more young chefs and bakers.

Food & Dining is delighted to feature this honored chef. He has reached into his heritage to gift us with holiday recipes for a trio of seasonal pastries, each carefully crafted so you can make them at home: Dresden stollen, a sweet, German yeast-bread cake that originated in Dresden, Germany; cinnamon stars (“Zimsterne”), a popular Swiss holiday cookie that symbolizes the Christmas star; and, because no dessert is complete without chocolate, a batch of chocolate-meringue brownie drops.

Dresden Stollen

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Cinnamon Stars

Brownie Drops

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Dresden Stollen (MAKES 3 LOAVES) 1

/2 ounce fresh yeast /2 ounce milk 11/2 ounces sugar 1 tablespoon honey 2 eggs 1 ounce unsalted butter, softened 1 teaspoon salt 22 ounces bread flour

1

1. Blend all ingredients into a dough.

2. Add a little flour if dough is sticky.

1

/4 teaspoon ground cloves 11/2 teaspoons ground cardamom 1 /2 teaspoon cinnamon 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 1. Work these ingredients into the dough.

2 4 4 4

ounces glazed red cherries ounces candied orange peel ounces gold raisins ounces dark raisins, “plumped” by soaking for a few moments in 3 tablespoons rum or a little hot water 4 ounces chopped almonds 1. Incorporate these ingredients into the dough mix.

2. Rest dough for 10 minutes.

3. Cut dough into three equal pieces.

4. Form pieces into oblong loaves about 14 inches long.

5. Place the loaves on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper.

6. Flatten loaves lightly and press decorative indentations along sides with round spoon handle.

7. Let rise for 1 hour.

8. Bake at 350 degrees for 40-45 minutes.

9. Brush with melted butter while still warm.

10. Sprinkle with granulated sugar on top and sides.

11. Dust with powdered sugar.

12. Stollen can be stored wrapped for up to 2 weeks.

Cinnamon Stars (MAKES 36 COOKIES) 11/2 cups whole almonds 1 /4 cup egg whites (whites of 4 eggs) 11/2 teaspoons cinnamon 1 teaspoon grated lemon zest 11/2 cups confectioner’s sugar Granulated sugar for sprinkling work surface 1 teaspoon water

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1. Preheat oven to 325 degrees.

2. In food processor grind almonds until fine.

3. In a bowl beat the egg whites and a pinch of salt until they hold stiff peaks.

4. Gradually beat in the confectioners sugar to make a meringue. Reserve about 1/3 cup of this meringue, covered.

5. Add the remaining meringue, the cinnamon and the grated lemon zest to the almond mixture in the food processor and pulse until a firm dough forms.

6. Sprinkle work surface with sugar.

7. Roll dough on the sugared surface to 1 /4-inch thick.

8. Make cookies with a 2-inch starshaped cookie cutter, dipped in water to prevent sticking.

9. Place cookies on a lined baking sheet.

10. Add just enough water to liquefy the reserved meringue and brush it on cookies.

11. Let stand at room temperature for 1 hour.

12. Place cookies in oven and reduce temperature to 300 degrees.

13. Bake for 15 minutes until firm but moist.

14. Remove and cool on cooling rack.

15. Store in airtight container for up to 2 weeks.

Brownie Drops (MAKES 24 COOKIES) 8 ounces of melted semi-sweet chocolate 1 /2 ounce butter 2 eggs, beaten 6 ounces sugar 21/2 ounces chopped pecans 1 /4 teaspoon cinnamon 1 /8 teaspoon baking powder 1 /4 teaspoon vanilla extract 1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

2. Whip eggs, sugar and vanilla until light.

3. Mix the cinnamon and baking powder with the pecans. Add this mixture to the beaten eggs.

4. Gently melt the chocolate with the butter. Blend the egg mixture into the melted chocolate and butter and mix until all is incorporated.

5. Spoon or pipe drops about 13/4 inches in diameter onto a baking sheet lined with parchment paper.

6. Bake for 10 minutes or until firm but not hard.

7. When cool, place cookies in airtight container. F&D www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Fall 2007 53

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CUISINE STYLES

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ALPHABETICAL INDEX

dining guide

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ALL RESTAURANTS ARE LISTED ALPHABETICALLY, FOLL OWED

BY THE P AGE NUMBER OF IT S REVIEW, IT’S CUISINE S

TYLE,

AND THE CORRESPONDING MAP NUMBER(S).

[ ]

DENOTES UNMAPPED MULTIPLE LOCATIONS.

RESTAURANT

PAGE #

AFRICAN 75 ASIAN/CHINESE 75 ASIAN/FILIPINO 76 ASIAN/JAPANESE 76 ASIAN/KOREAN 77 ASIAN/THAI 77 ASIAN/VIETNAMESE 77 BAR & GRILL 73 BARBECUE 72 BISTRO/CONTEMPORARY 62 CAFÉS 6 3 CAFETERIAS 68 CAJUN/CREOLE 80 CARIBBEAN/CUBAN 80 CASUAL DINING 65 COFFEE HOUSE 81 DESSERTS/BAKERY 81 ENTERTAINMENT DINING 69 EUROPEAN/BOSNIAN 77 EUROPEAN/GERMAN 77 EUROPEAN/IRISH 78 EUROPEAN/ITALIAN 78 EUROPEAN/SPANISH 78 FINE DINING 58 HOME STYLE/SOUTHERN 68 INDIAN 79 MEXICAN 80 MICROBREWERIES 74 MIDDLE EASTERN 79 PIZZA 69 SANDWICH/DELI 71 SEAFOOD 64 SOUTHWEST/TEX MEX 81 STEAKHOUSE 65 UPSCALE CASUAL 59 54 Fall 2007 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE

#1 Asian Buffet 75 19th Green Pub & Grill 73 211 Clover Lane 58 60 West Bistro 59 610 Magnolia 58 8 China Buffet 75 A Nice Restaurant 65 A Taste of China 75 Al Watan 79 Alexander’s Pizzeria 69 Amazing Grace Deli 71 Amerigo 78 Amici´ 78 Angelina’s Café 78 Angie’s Café 63 Angilo’s Pizza 69 Angio’s Restaurant 69 Ann’s by the River 68 Annie Café 77 Annie’s Pizza 69 Another Place 71 Anytimes 65 Applebee’s 65 Appleby’s Café & Wine Bar 63 Arirang 77 Arni’s Pizza 70 Aroma Café 63 Artemisia 59 Asian Buffet 75 Asiatique 59 Atomic Saucer 81 Atrium Café 62 August Moon 75 Austin’s 59 Avalon 59 Babby’s Steakhouse 65 Backyard Burger 71 Bake’s Barbeque 72 The Bakery 81 Ballyhoo Baja Grill 81 Bamboo House 75 Bank Shot Billiards 71 Barbara Lee’s Kitchen 68 Basa Modern Vietnamese 59 Baxter Station 62 Bazos Mexican Grill 80 Bean Street Café 81 Bearno’s Pizza 70 Beef O’Brady’s 73 Behar Café 77 Bendoya Sushi Bar 76 Bentley’s Sports Grille 73 Big Dave’s Outpost 73 Big Momma’s Soul Kitchen 68 Big Willie’s Pizza Pub 70 Bistro 301 62 Blimpie’s Subs 71 BLU Mediterranean Grille 59 Blue Dog Bakery 63 Blue Mountain Wine Bar 63 Blue Mule Sports Café 73 Bluegrass Bistro 62 Bluegrass Brewing Co. 74 Bonefish Grill 64 Bootleg Barbecue Co. 73 Bosna-Mak 77 Bountiful Bread Bakery Café 63 Bourbons Bistro 62 Brandon’s Bar-B-Que 73 Bravo!

59 Breadworks 81 Brendans 78 Bristol Bar & Grille 59 Brix Wine Bar 62 Brownie’s Grille & Bar 74

MAP #

Asian/Chinese 2 Bar & Grill 16 Fine Dining 3 Upscale Casual 3 Fine Dining 1 Asian/Chinese 6 Casual Dining 14, 16 Asian/Chinese 1 Middle Eastern 4 Pizza 16 Sandwich/Deli 2 European/Italian 5 European/Italian 1 European/Italian 5 Cafés 3 Pizza 13 Pizza 4 Cafeterias 16 Asian/Vietnamese 12 Pizza 1, 13 Sandwich/Deli 1 Casual Dining 7 Casual Dining [9] Cafés 16 Asian/Korean 9 Pizza 14 Cafés 14 Upscale Casual 1 Asian/Chinese 4, 14, 15 Upscale Casual 2 Coffee House 1 Bistro/Contemporary 5 Asian/Chinese 2 Upscale Casual 7 Upscale Casual 2 Steakhouse 16 Sandwich/Deli 6 Barbecue 13 Desserts/Bakery 4 Southwest/Tex Mex 2 Asian/Chinese 12 Sandwich/Deli 1 Home Style/Southern 2 Upscale Casual 2 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Mexican 3 Coffee House 14 Pizza [14] Bar & Grill 8, 9, 12, 14 European/Bosnian 12 Asian/Japanese 1 Bar & Grill 1 Bar & Grill 2 Home Style/Southern 1 Pizza 6 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Sandwich/Deli 2, 4 Upscale Casual 1 Cafés 2 Cafés 1 Bar & Grill 6 Bistro/Contemporary 4 Microbreweries 1, 3 Seafood 5 Barbecue 11, 12 European/Bosnian 4 Cafés 7 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Barbecue 6, 8, 9 Upscale Casual 3 Desserts/Bakery 2, 7, 9 European/Irish 3 Upscale Casual 1, 2, 5, 10 Bistro/Contemporary 8 Bar & Grill 5

RESTAURANT

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE

Browning’s Brewery 74 Bruno’s Pizza 70 Bruno’s Pizzeria & Pub 70 Buca Di Beppo 78 Buck’s 58 Buckhead Mountain Grill 65 Buffalo Madison Coffee Co. 81 Buffalo Wild Wings 74 Bulldog Café 64 The Butterfly Garden Café 64 The Café 64 Café 360 79 Café Fraiche 64 Café J 64 Café Lou Lou 62 Café Magnolia 66 Café Metro 58 Café Mimosa 78 Caffe Classico 81 California Pizza Kitchen 66 Camille’s Sidewalk Café 64 Cancun Mexican Restaurant 80 Captain’s Quarters 66 Cardinal Hall of Fame Café 66 Carly Rae’s 66 Carolina Shrimp & Seafood 64 Carolyn’s 68 Carrabba’s Italian Grille 78 Cat Box Deli 71 Caviar Japanese Rest.

59 Champions Grill 66 Champion’s Sports Rest. 74 Chatter’s Bar & Grill 74 Check’s Café 68 Cheddar Box Café 64 Cheddar’s Casual Café 66 Cheesecake Factory 59 Chez Seneba African 75 Chicago Gyro 71 Chick Inn 66 The Chicken House 68 Chicken King 68 Chili’s 66 China 1 75 China Buffet 75 China Castle 75 China City Buffet 75 China Garden 75 China Inn 75 China King 75 China Sea Buffet 75 Chinese Chef 75 Chinese Express 75 Chong Garden 75 Chopsticks 75 Chopsticks House 75 Chung King 75 Ciano’s 71 Cici’s 70 City Café 64 City Wok 75 Clark Boy Bar-B-Que 73 Clarksville Seafood 64 Cleo’s Coffee 81 Clifton’s Pizza 70 Club Grotto 59 Coach Lamp 59 Coco’s Bakery 81 CoCo’s Chocolate Café 81 Coffee Crossing 81 Coffee Pot Café 81 Coffee Treat Café 81 Come Back Inn 78 Connor’s Place 74 Corbett’s ‘An American Place’ 58 Corner Café 60 Cottage Café 68 Cottage Inn 68 Crave Café & Catering 64 Cravings a la Carte 68 Crystal Chinese 75 Culver’s 66 Cumberland Brews 75 Cunningham’s 66 Cyclers Café 64 Danish Express 71 Danny Mac’s Pasta & Pizza 70 DaVinci by Lentini’s 78 Day’s Espresso 81 DBL Shotz 81 De La Torre’s 78 Del Frisco’s 65 Delta Restaurant 74 Derby Café 64 Derby City Espresso 81 Derby Dinner Playhouse 69

MAP #

Microbreweries 1 Pizza 14 Pizza 12 European/Italian 6 Fine Dining 1 Casual Dining 4, 12, 16 Coffee House 14, 15 Bar & Grill 2,3, 6, 8, 9, 13 Cafés 12 Cafés 2 Cafés 1 Middle Eastern 2 Cafés 7 Cafés 3 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Casual Dining 1 Fine Dining 2 Asian/Vietnamese 2 Coffee House 2 Casual Dining 5 Cafés 6 Mexican 4 Casual Dining 10 Casual Dining 12 Casual Dining 1 Seafood 3 Home Style/Southern 13 European/Italian 5 Sandwich/Deli 1 Upscale Casual 1 Casual Dining 16 Bar & Grill 1 Bar & Grill 6 Home Style/Southern 1 Cafés 3, 9 Casual Dining 8, 15 Upscale Casual 3 African 12 Sandwich/Deli 2 Casual Dining 10 Home Style/Southern 14 Home Style/Southern 1 Casual Dining 4, 5, 8, 12 Asian/Chinese 3 Asian/Chinese 15 Asian/Chinese 13 Asian/Chinese 8 Asian/Chinese 12 Asian/Chinese 1 Asian/Chinese 6 Asian/Chinese 9 Asian/Chinese 1 Asian/Chinese 13 Asian/Chinese 13 Asian/Chinese 1 Asian/Chinese 1 Asian/Chinese 1 Sandwich/Deli 9 Pizza 4, 14 Cafés 1, 2 Asian/Chinese 1 Barbecue 13 Seafood 15 Coffee House 14 Pizza 2 Upscale Casual 2 Upscale Casual 1 Desserts/Bakery 12 Desserts/Bakery 2 Coffee House 14 Coffee House 1 Coffee House 1 European/Italian 1, 16 Bar & Grill 14 Fine Dining 8 Upscale Casual 5 Home Style/Southern 9 Home Style/Southern 1 Cafés 2 Cafeterias 1 Asian/Chinese 1 Casual Dining 6 Microbreweries 2 Casual Dining 1, 7 Cafés 2 Sandwich/Deli 3 Pizza 2 European/Italian 5 Coffee House 2 Coffee House 16 European/Spanish 2 Steakhouse 3 Bar & Grill 1 Cafés 12 Coffee House 1 Entertainment Dining 16

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Desserts By Helen 81 Desserts/Bakery 2, 10 Devino’s 71 Sandwich/Deli 1 Diamond Pub & Billiards 74 Bar & Grill 3 Dinner Is Done 68 Home Style/Southern 6 Dino’s Down to Lunch 71 Sandwich/Deli 1 Ditto’s Grill 62 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Dizzy Whizz Drive-In 71 Sandwich/Deli 1 Djuli 77 European/Bosnian 12 Dmitri’s Deli 71 Sandwich/Deli 1 D’Nalley’s Restaurant 68 Home Style/Southern 1 Domino’s Pizza 70 Pizza [20] Don Pablos 80 Mexican 15 Dooley’s Bagels 72 Sandwich/Deli 1,3, 7, 9 Double Dragon 75 Asian/Chinese 2,3 Double Dragon II 75 Asian/Chinese 5, 8, 11, 12 Double Dragon 8 75 Asian/Chinese 1 Double Dragon 9 75 Asian/Chinese 6 Double Dragon Buffet 75 Asian/Chinese 5 Dragon Garden 75 Asian/Chinese 2 Dutch’s Tavern 74 Bar & Grill 3 Dynasty Buffet 75 Asian/Chinese 7 Eastern House 75 Asian/Chinese 13 Eggroll Machine 75 Asian/Chinese 2 El Caporal 80 Mexican 4,6,12,15 El Mundo 80 Mexican 2 El Nopal 80 Mexican 6, 8, 9, 12 El Nopalito 80 Mexican 2, 4, 11 El Rey Mexican 80 Mexican 4 El Rodeo Mexican 80 Mexican 13 El Tarasco 80 Mexican 3, 5, 7, 12 El Toro Resaurante Mexicano 80 Mexican 6 Emperor of China 75 Asian/Chinese 7 Empress of China 75 Asian/Chinese 4 The English Grill 58 Fine Dining 1 Equus 58 Fine Dining 3 Erika’s German Rest.

77 European/German 6 Ermin’s Bakery & Café 64 Cafés 1, 10, 14 Ernesto’s 80 Mexican 3, 5, 6 Eva Mae’s Creekside 66 Casual Dining 7 Expressions of You 81 Coffee House 7 Famous Dave’s Bar-B-Que 73 Barbecue 6, 15 Fast Break Pizza 70 Pizza 8 Fat Daddy’s Pizza 70 Pizza 12 Fat Jimmy’s 70 Pizza 1, 2, 5, 9 Federal Hill 64 Cafés 14 Feed Bag Deli 72 Sandwich/Deli 3 Ferd Grisanti 78 European/Italian 6 Fiesta Time Mexican Grill 80 Mexican 8 Fifth Quarter 65 Steakhouse 12 Finley’s BBQ 73 Barbecue 1 Fire Fresh Bar B Q 73 Barbecue 1, 4, 5, 9, 11, 13 First Wok 75 Asian/Chinese 13 The Fish House 64 Seafood 2 The Fishery 64 Seafood 3 Flabby’s Schnitzelburg 74 Bar & Grill 1 Flanigans Ale House 74 Bar & Grill 2 Fork in the Road 68 Home Style/Southern 13 Fountain Room 66 Casual Dining 1 Four King’s Café 74 Bar & Grill 4 Fox & Hound 74 Bar & Grill 3 Frank’s Steak House 65 Steakhouse 5, 16 Frascelli’s N.Y. Deli 72 Sandwich/Deli 7 Fresco Southwest Grill & Pizza 70 Pizza 1 Frolio’s Pizza 70 Pizza 12 Frontier Diner 68 Home Style/Southern 13 Fuji Japanese Steakhouse 76 Asian/Japanese 8 Gasthaus 78 European/German 7 Gavi’s Restaurant 66 Casual Dining 1 Genny’s Diner 68 Home Style/Southern 2 Germantown Café 64 Cafés 1 Gerstle’s Place 74 Bar & Grill 3 Golden Buddha 75 Asian/Chinese 12 Golden Corral 68 Home Style/Southern 4,12,15 Golden Palace 75 Asian/Chinese 13 Golden Star Chinese 75 Asian/Chinese 13 Golden Wall 75 Asian/Chinese 12 Goose Creek Diner 68 Home Style/Southern 8 Granville Inn 74 Bar & Grill 1 Grape Leaf 79 Middle Eastern 2 Grapevine Pantry 64 Cafés 9 Great American Grill 74 Bar & Grill 12 Great Wall 75 Asian/Chinese 2 Great Wok 75 Asian/Chinese 1 Hall’s Cafeteria 68 Cafeterias 2 Hanabi Japanese Restaurant 76 Asian/Japanese 10 Happy Dragon 75 Asian/Chinese 1 Hard Rock Café 62 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Havana Rumba 80 Caribbean/Cuban 3 Hazelwood Restaurant 68 Home Style/Southern 13 Heine Brothers Coffee 81 Coffee House 2, 3 Heitzman Bakery & Deli 81 Desserts/Bakery 5 Hero’s New York Pizza Pub 70 Pizza 6 Highland Coffee Co. 81 Coffee House 1, 2 Hill Street Fish Fry 64 Seafood 1 Hitching Post Inn 74 Bar & Grill 11 Hobknobb Roasting Co. 81 Coffee House 14

Charming Ambiance

Over 80 Wines By The Glass — RESERVATIONS ACCEPTED —

Exceptional Cuisine

1765 Mellwood Ave. at the corner of Brownsboro Rd.

Open Nightly at 5:00 pm

897-0070

THEATER MENU 5:00 pm – 6:30 pm

www.landnwinebarandbistro.com www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Fall 2007 55

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Hometown Buffet 68 Hometown Pizza 70 Honeybaked Café 72 Hong Kong Chinese 75 Hong Kong Fast Food 75 Hoops Grill and Sports Bar 74 Hooters 66 Hot Dog Heaven 72 Howl at the Moon 69 Hunan Wok 75 Ichiban Samurai 76 IHOP 66 Indi’s Restaurant 68 India Palace 79 Intermezzo American Café 60 The Irish Rover 78 Iroquois Pizza 70 Islamorada Fish Co. 64 It’s A Grind Coffee House 81 J. Alexander’s 60 J. Graham’s Café 64 J. Gumbo’s 80 J. Harrods 60 Jack Fry’s 60 Jack’s Lounge 62 Jade Garden Buffet 75 Jade Palace 75 Jake’s & Mr. G’s 74 Jane’s Cafeteria 68 Janie’s Café 68 Jarfi’s Bistro 60 Jarfi’s at Mellwood 66 Jasmine 75 Jason’s Deli 72 Java Brewing Co. 81 Jay’s Cafeteria 69 Jazz Factory 62 Jeff Ruby’s Steakhouse 65 Jennica’s Café & Wine Bar 64 Jersey Mike’s Subs 72 Jersey’s Café 74 Jessie’s Restaurant 68 Jimbo’s BBQ 73 Jimmy and Richie’s 74 Jimmy John’s Sub Shop 72 Jimmy’s on the River 74 Jockamo’s Pizza Pub 70 Joe Huber Restaurant 69 Joe Muggs 81 Joe’s Crab Shack 64 Joe’s O.K. Bayou 80 Joe’s Older Than Dirt 66 John E’s 60 JoJo’s Fish Market 64 JP’s Pub & Grub 74 Juanita’s Burger Boy 72 Jucy’s Smokehouse 73 Juke Box 66 Jumbo Buffet 75 Just Fresh Bakery & Café 72 Kaelin’s Restaurant 66 Kansai Japanese Rest.

76 Karem’s Grill & Pub 66 Karma Café 66 Kashmir Indian 79 Kayrouz Café 64 Kern’s Korner 66 Kimi’s Asian Bistro 63 King Buffet 75 King Wok 75 Kingfish 64 Kings Fast Food 68 King’s Fried Chicken 68 Kobe Japanese Steak 76 Koreana II 77 KT’s 60 KY Taco 80 L&N Wine Bar and Bistro 63 La Bamba 80 La Bodega 78 La Gallo Rosso Bistro 1325 78 La Herradura 80 La Monarca 80 La Perla del Pacifico 80 La Rosita Taqueria 80 La Tapatia 80 La Vida Java Coffee Co. 81 Le Relais 58 Lee’s Korean 77 Legend’s 66 Lemongrass Café 77 Lentini’s 78 Liang’s Café 75 The Lighthouse 74 Lilly’s 58 Limestone 58

11:27 AM

MAP #

Home Style/South. 6,8,13,15 Pizza 7, 9 Sandwich/Deli 3, 11, 15 Asian/Chinese 14 Asian/Chinese 12 Bar & Grill 12 Casual Dining 3,12,13,15,16 Sandwich/Deli 7 Entertainment Dining 1 Asian/Chinese 11 Asian/Japanese 6 Casual Dining 15 Home Style/Southern 1,3,12 Indian 5 Upscale Casual 1 European/Irish 2, 7 Pizza 13 Seafood 15 Coffee House 8 Upscale Casual 3 Cafés 1 Cajun/Creole 1, 2,5, 6, 8,12,13 Upscale Casual 3 Upscale Casual 2 Bistro/Contemporary 3 Asian/Chinese 2 Asian/Chinese 7 Bar & Grill 5 Cafeterias 4 Cafeterias 14 Upscale Casual 1 Casual Dining 2 Asian/Chinese 9 Sandwich/Deli 5 Coffee House 1, 2, 9, 10 Cafeterias 1 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Steakhouse 1 Cafés 1 Sandwich/Deli 5, 6, 8 Bar & Grill 15 Home Style/Southern 13 Barbecue 12 Bar & Grill 5 Sandwich/Deli 1, 3 Bar & Grill 16 Pizza 1 Entertainment Dining 14 Coffee House 3, 8 Seafood 1 Cajun/Creole 6, 14 Casual Dining 5 Upscale Casual 4 Seafood 4 Bar & Grill 11 Sandwich/Deli 1 Barbecue 5 Casual Dining 14 Asian/Chinese 6 Sandwich/Deli 2 Casual Dining 2 Asian/Japanese 15 Casual Dining 8 Casual Dining 2 Indian 2 Cafés 3 Casual Dining 2 Asian/Japanese 6 Asian/Chinese 6 Asian/Chinese 3 Seafood 6, 7, 16 Home Style/Southern 13 Home Style/Southern 1 Asian/Japanese 16 Asian/Korean 12 Upscale Casual 2 Mexican 11 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Mexican 2 European/Spanish 2 European/Italian 2 Mexican 15 Mexican 11 Mexican 8 Mexican 14 Mexican 2 Coffee House 7 Fine Dining 4 Asian/Korean 12 Casual Dining 14 Asian/Vietnamese 2, 3, 9 European/Italian 2 Asian/Chinese 8 Bar & Grill 16 Fine Dining 2 Fine Dining 5

56 Fall 2007 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

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RESTAURANT

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Ling Ling Little Caesar’s Pizza Little Chef Liu’s Garden Logan’s Roadhouse Lolitas Tacos Inc. Longhorn Steakhouse Longino’s Lonnie’s Taste Chicago Los Aztecas Los Indios Mexicano Lotsa Pasta Louisville Pizza Co. Lucky House Buffet Lucky Strike Lanes / Felt Luigi’s Lunch Today Lynn’s Paradise Café Ma Zerellas Maggie’s Sports Bar & Grille Mai’s Thai Restaurant Maido Essential Japanese Main Eatery Main Menu Maker’s Mark Lounge Manhattan Grill Mark’s Feed Store Market on Market Marrakech Martini Italian Bistro Masterson’s Max & Erma’s Mayan Café Mazzoni’s Oyster Café McAlister’s Deli Melillo’s The Melting Pot Meridian Café Mexican Fiesta Mexico Tipico Michael Murphy’s Mike Linnig’s Mimi’s Café Mitchell’s Fish Market Moe’s Southwest Grill Mojito Tapas Restaurant Molly Malone’s The Monkey Wrench Morris Deli & Catering Morton’s of Chicago Mr. Gattis Mr. Lou’s Mr. Z’s Kitchen My Favorite Muffin My Old KY Dinner Train Nancy’s Bagel Grounds Napa River Grill Neil’s Place Nero’s New Albanian Brewing Co. New China New Direction Bar & Grill Nios Nord’s Brown Bag Deli Norma Jean’s Trackside North End Café NV Tavern O’Charley’s O’Dolly’s O’Shea’s Irish Pub The Oakroom Oceanside Restaurant Old Chicago Pasta & Pizza Old Louisville Coffee House Old Spaghetti Factory Old Stone Inn Ole Hickory Pit BBQ The Olive Garden Olive’s on Fourth Ollie’s Trolley Omar’s Gyro On the Border Onion Rest.Tea House Orders Up Café & Deli Oriental House Oriental Star Original Impellizzeri’s Osaka Sushi Bar Otto’s Café Outback Steakhouse P. F. Chang’s China Bistro Pa Pa Murphy’s Pizza Palermo Viejo Panda Chinese Panera Bread Co. Papa Johns Pizza

MAP #

75 Asian/Chinese 5 70 Pizza 6, 8, 11, 12 72 Sandwich/Deli 14 75 Asian/Chinese 9 65 Steakhouse 3, 13, 15 80 Mexican 12 65 Steakhouse 6, 8, 15 68 Home Style/Southern 13 72 Sandwich/Deli 3 80 Mexican 1, 6, 7, 10 80 Mexican 14 72 Sandwich/Deli 3 70 Pizza 6 75 Asian/Chinese 4 69 Entertainment Dining 1 70 Pizza 1 72 Sandwich/Deli 16 66 Casual Dining 2 70 Pizza 15 74 Bar & Grill 6 77 Asian/Thai 16 76 Asian/Japanese 2 72 Sandwich/Deli 1 67 Casual Dining 14 60 Upscale Casual 1 67 Casual Dining 1 73 Barbecue 2, 9, 13, 15 72 Sandwich/Deli 1 79 Middle Eastern 2 78 European/Italian 8 67 Casual Dining 1 67 Casual Dining 6, 8 80 Mexican 1 64 Seafood 4 72 Sandwich/Deli 5, 6, 7, 9, 11,15 78 European/Italian 1 60 Upscale Casual 6 64 Cafés 3 80 Mexican 4, 11 80 Mexican 9, 13 74 Bar & Grill 1 64 Seafood 13 67 Casual Dining 5 64 Seafood 8 81 Southwest/Tex Mex 3, 6, 9, 11, 15 78 European/Spanish 7 78 European/Irish 2 67 Casual Dining 2 72 Sandwich/Deli 2 65 Steakhouse 1 70 Pizza 1, 4, 5, 12, 13 68 Home Style/Southern 13 64 Cafés 1 81 Desserts/Bakery 4, 5 69 Entertainment Dining 12 72 Sandwich/Deli 2 60 Upscale Casual 3 67 Casual Dining 14 60 Upscale Casual 14 70 Pizza 14 75 Asian/Chinese 9 74 Bar & Grill 8 63 Bistro/Contemporary 2 72 Sandwich/Deli 1 67 Casual Dining 7 64 Cafés 2 74 Bar & Grill 2 67 Casual Dining 3,6,8,12,13,15 68 Home Style/Southern 13 78 European/Irish 2 58 Fine Dining 1 79 Middle Eastern 4 67 Casual Dining 6 81 Coffee House 1 78 European/Italian 1 61 Upscale Casual 6 73 Barbecue 11 78 European/Italian 6, 8, 15 68 Home Style/Southern 1 72 Sandwich/Deli 1 79 Middle Eastern 2 81 Southwest/Tex Mex 8 75 Asian/Chinese 14 72 Sandwich/Deli 9 75 Asian/Chinese 3 76 Asian/Chinese 12 70 Pizza 2 76 Asian/Japanese 2 67 Casual Dining 1 65 Steakhouse 3, 8, 11, 12, 15 61 Upscale Casual 5 70 Pizza 3, 8, 9, 11, 12, 15 79 European/Spanish 2 76 Asian/Chinese 10 72 Sandwich/Deli3, 6, 8, 12, 15 70 Pizza [30]

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Park Place Restaurant 58 Passtime Fish House 65 Pat’s Steak House 65 The Patron 61 Paul’s Fruit Market 72 Penn Station 72 Peppers Bar and Grill 67 Perkfection 81 Pesto’s Italian 78 Pho Binh Minh 77 Piccadilly Cafeteria 69 Picnicaters BBQ 73 Pig and a Peppermint 64 Pig City BBQ 73 Pink Door Noodles & Tea Lounge 77 Pit Stop Bar-B-Que 73 Pita Delights 79 Pizza By The Guy 71 Pizza Hut 71 Pizza King 71 Pizza Place 71 Pizzeria Uno 71 Plehn’s Bakery 81 Ponderosa Steakhouse 65 Porcini 78 Portico 58 Prado’s Pizza 71 Primo 78 Proof On Main 58 Prospect Fish Market 65 Pub Louisville 67 Puccini’s Smiling Teeth 78 Puerto Vallarta 80 Qdoba Mexican Grill 80 Queen of Sheba 75 Queue Café 64 Quick Wok 76 Quizno’s Subs 72 Rafferty’s of Louisville 67 Ramsi’s Café 63 Raw Sushi Lounge 76 Ray Parrella’s 78 Red Robin Gourmet Burgers 67 Red Star Tavern 61 Red Sun Chinese 76 Rick’s Ferrari Grille 61 Rite Way Bar-B-Cue House 73 Rivue 61 Road to Morroco 79 Rockwall Bistro 61 Rocky’s Italian Grill 78 Romano’s Macaroni Grill 78 Roosters 67 Rosticeria Luna 80 Royal Garden 76 Rubbie’s Bar-B-Que 73 Ruben’s Mexican Restaurant 81 Ruby Tuesday 67 The Rudyard Kipling 67 Rumors Raw Oyster Bar 65 Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse 65 Ryan’s Steakhouse 65 Saffron’s 79 Safier Mediterranean Deli 80 Sahara Café 80 Saint’s 74 Sakura Blue 76 Sala Thai 77 Salsarita’s Fresh Cantina 81 Sam’s Food & Spirits 67 Santa Fe Grill 81 Sapporo Japanese Grill 76 Sari Sari Exotic Filipino Cuisine 76 Savino’s Italian Food 78 Schlotzsky’s Deli 72 Scotty’s Ribs 73 Senor Iguana’s 81 Sesame Chinese 76 Seviche A Latin Restaurant 59 Shady Lane Café 72 Shah’s Mongolian Grill 76 Shalimar Indian 79 Shane’s Rib Shack 73 Shanghai Restaurant 76 Sharom’s 65 Shenanigan’s Irish Grille 78 Shiraz Mediterranean Grill 80 Shogun 77 Shoney’s 67 Sichuan Garden 76 Sicilian Pizza & Pasta 71 Simply Thai 77 Sister Bean’s 81 Skyline Chili 67 Slice of New York 71 Smokey Bones BBQ 73

MAP #

Fine Dining 1 Seafood 6 Steakhouse 2 Upscale Casual 3 Sandwich/Deli 3, 4, 7, 9 Sandwich/Deli [14] Casual Dining 1 Coffee House 16 European/Italian 1 Asian/Vietnamese 12 Cafeterias 5, 6 Barbecue 1 Cafés 10 Barbecue 9 Asian/Korean 2 Barbecue 1 Middle Eastern 1 Pizza 5 Pizza [15] Pizza 14, 16 Pizza 4 Pizza 11 Desserts/Bakery 3 Steakhouse 7 European/Italian 2 Fine Dining 14 Pizza 9 European/Italian 1 Fine Dining 1 Seafood 10 Casual Dining 1 European/Italian 3 Mexican 14, 16 Mexican 2, 3, 5, 6, 7, 8, 15 African 4 Cafés 6 Asian/Chinese 1 Sandwich/Deli [17] Casual Dining 3, 8 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Asian/Japanese 1 European/Italian 2 Casual Dining 8 Upscale Casual 1 Asian/Chinese 4 Upscale Casual 3 Barbecue 1 Upscale Casual 1 Middle Eastern 1 Upscale Casual 14 European/Italian 8, 16 European/Italian 5 Casual Dining 12 Mexican 12 Asian/Chinese 11, 12, 13 Barbecue 12 Mexican 15 Casual Dining 3, 6, 15 Casual Dining 1 Seafood 9 Steakhouse 3 Steakhouse 11, 13, 15 Middle Eastern 1 Middle Eastern 1 Middle Eastern 3 Bar & Grill 3 Asian/Japanese 3 Asian/Thai 6 Southwest/Tex Mex 3 Casual Dining 14 Mexican 12 Asian/Japanese 2, 9 Asian/Filipino 2 European/Italian 13 Sandwich/Deli 8, 9 Barbecue 9 Mexican 15 Asian/Chinese 5 Fine Dining 2, 8 Sandwich/Deli 7 Asian/Chinese 6 Indian 6 Barbecue 7 Asian/Chinese 1 Seafood 11 European/Irish 2, 7 Middle Eastern 2, 7 Asian/Japanese 6, 8 Casual Dining 2, 6, 12 Asian/Chinese 6 Pizza 1 Asian/Thai 3 Coffee House 13 Casual Dining 1, 2, 3, 6, 13 Pizza 6 Barbecue 6

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Snappy Tomato 71 Pizza [7] Sol Aztecas 81 Mexican 2 Soupy’s 72 Sandwich/Deli 4, 6 , 8 , 1 3 Spaghetti Shop 78 European/Italian 11, 14 Speakeasy 61 Upscale Casual 14 Spinelli’s Pizzeria 71 Pizza 2 Sports Page Grill 74 Bar & Grill 6 Sportsville Grill & Bar 67 Casual Dining 12 Stan’s Fish Sandwich 65 Seafood 3 Star Cruises 69 Entertainment Dining 16 Starbucks Coffee 81 Coffee House [27] Starving Artist Café 72 Sandwich/Deli 5 Steak N Shake 67 Casual Dining 4,6,8,12,13,15 Steinert’s Grill & Pub 74 Bar & Grill 14 Stevens & Stevens 72 Sandwich/Deli 2 Steve-O’s Italian Kitchen 78 European/Italian 7 Stoney River 65 Steakhouse 8 Stratto’s 78 European/Italian 15 Strawberry Patch Deli 72 Sandwich/Deli 9 Stumler Rest. & Orchard 69 Entertainment Dining 14 Sub Station II 72 Sandwich/Deli 12 Sully’s Saloon 74 Bar & Grill 1 Sunergos Coffee & Roastery 81 Coffee House 1 Sweet ‘N’ Savory Café 64 Cafés 2 Sweet Peas Southern 63 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Sweet Surrender 64 Cafés 2 The Sweet Tooth 81 Desserts/Bakery 3 Taco Tico 81 Mexican 13 Tacqueria La Mexicana 81 Mexican 12 Tailgaters Sports Bar 74 Bar & Grill 12 Taste of Jamaica 80 Carribian/Cuban 2 Tea Station Chinese Bistro 76 Asian/Chinese 8 Tequila Mexican Rest.

81 Mexican 12 Texas Roadhouse 65 Steakhouse 2, 12, 13, 15 TGI Friday’s 67 Casual Dining 1, 6 Thai Café 77 Asian/Thai 7 Thai Siam 77 Asian/Thai 4 Thai Smile 5 77 Asian/Thai 12 Thai Taste 77 Asian/Thai 2 The Back Door 74 Bar & Grill 2 The Bodega 72 Sandwich/Deli 1 The Gaslight Inn 68 Casual Dining 6 Theater Square Deli 72 Sandwich/Deli 1 Third Avenue Café 64 Cafés 1 Toast on Market 67 Casual Dining 1 Tokyo Japanese 77 Asian/Japanese 7 Toll Bridge Inn 68 Home Style/Southern 14 Tologono 63 Bistro/Contemporary 3 Tommy Lancaster 68 Casual Dining 14 Tony Boombozz 71 Pizza 2, 3, 8 Tony Impellizzeri’s Italian 71 Pizza 5 Tony Roma’s 73 Barbecue 5 Treet’s Bakery Café 64 Cafés 16 Trellis Restaurant 68 Casual Dining 1 Tucker’s 68 Casual Dining 14 Tumbleweed 81 Southwest/Tex Mex 1,2,4, 6,8,12,13,14,15,16 Tuscano’s 72 Sandwich/Deli 12 Tuscany Italian Restaurant 78 European/Italian 13 Twig & Leaf Restaurant 68 Casual Dining 2 Uptown Café 61 Upscale Casual 2 Varanese 61 Upscale Casual 2 Vic’s Café 74 Bar & Grill 1 Vietnam Kitchen 77 Asian/Vietnamese 12 The Villa Buffet 68 Casual Dining 14 Vince Staten’s BBQ 73 Barbecue 10 Vincenzo’s 59 Fine Dining 1 Vito’s Pizzeria 71 Pizza 12 Volare 78 European/Italian 2 W.W. Cousin’s 72 Sandwich/Deli 3 Wagner’s Pharmacy 68 Home Style/Southern 12 Wall Street Deli 72 Sandwich/Deli 1 Webb’s Market 68 Home Style/Southern 1 Westport General Store 68 Casual Dining 7 Whitney’s Diner 64 Cafés 11 Wicks Pizza 71 Pizza 2, 8, 9, 13 Wild Eggs 64 Cafés 3 Windy City Pizzeria 71 Pizza 1 The Wing Zone 68 Casual Dining 12 Wings To Go 71 Pizza 14 Winston’s 59 Fine Dining 4 Wok Express 76 Asian/Chinese 1 Wonton Express 76 Asian/Chinese 4 Wood City Grill 73 Barbecue 1 Woody’s Pub & Grill 74 Bar & Grill 8 Xavier’s 68 Casual Dining 1 Yaching’s East West Cuisine 61 Upscale Casual 1 Yang Kee Noodle 76 Asian/Chinese 5 Yen Ching 76 Asian/Chinese 6 You-Carryout-A 76 Asian/Chinese 14, 15, 16 Yummy Chinese 76 Asian/Chinese 12 Za’s Pizza 71 Pizza 2 ZaZoo’s 74 Bar & Grill 3 Zen Garden 77 Asian/Vietnamese 2 Z’s Oyster Bar 59 Fine Dining 5

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$ = Average Entrée under $8 $$ = Average Entrée $9–$14 $$$ = Average Entrée $15–$20 $$$$ = Average Entrée $21 & up

2 11 CL OVER LANE RES TAURANT 2 11 Clo ver Ln., 896-9570. Owner and manager Andy Smith continues to burnish the upscale atmosphere and creative cuisine of this s tylish spot in St. Matthews. It c onsistently r anks among the city’ s top tables. $$$$ p f 610 MAGNOLIA 610 Magnolia A ve., 636-0783. Chef Edward L ee’s dis tinctive, eclectic tak e on cr eative international cookery places his personal signatur e on e very dish at this elegantly c omfortable Old Louisville restaurant. For more than a quart er of a century it has r emained one of the city’ s fines t places to dine. $$$$ p f BUCK’S 42 5 W . Ormsb y A ve., 6 37-52 84. E clectic Victorian with t ongue-slightly-in-cheek, pleasant and not o verstated, this fine dining r oom in the Mayflower Apartments c ombines a w elcoming attitude with high-quality f are and atmospher e that’s frankly stunning. $$$ p e CAFÉ METRO 1700 Bar dstown Rd., 458-4830 . A local tr adition that helped es tablish Bar dstown Road as one of the city’ s “r estaurant r ows” a generation ago , Café Metr o r emains an upscale landmark and c ontinues t o please Metr o’s lo yal fans. $$$ p CORBETT’S “AN AMERICAN PLA CE” 5050 Norton Healthcare Blv d., 32 7-5058. Challenges in renovating the historic suburban mansion that will

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RED = Advertiser

p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

house this much-anticipat ed ne w spot ha ve pushed opening back t oward Chris tmas, but the city’s restaurant fans are eagerly looking f orward to the opening of this s tylish v enue b y Dean Corbett, longtime owner/chef at Equus. $$$$ p f ENGLISH GRILL 335 W . Br oadway (T he Br own Hotel), 583-1234. This elegant oak-paneled dining room is the same do wntown landmark that our grandparents enjo yed, but Chef Laur ent Gér oli brings the gr and old hot el dining r oom int o the 2 1st c entury with sophis ticated int ernational cuisine. $$$$ p EQUUS 122 Sears Ave., 897-9721. Veteran Chef Dean Corbett has quietly built one of the city’ s mos t honored r estaurants in this simple whit e-brick building in St. Matthe ws, Quietly elegant surroundings, splendid servic e and firs t-rate “progressive American cuisine” have won applause from publications like Southern Living. $$$$ p LE RELAIS 2 817 T aylorsville Rd. (Bo wman Field), 451-9020. Another longstanding contender for top rank in L ouisville’s r estaurant r ace, this art dec o spot makes s tylish use of a his toric 19 2 0s airport building to present elegant modern French cuisine from Chef Daniel Stage. $$$$ p f e LILLY’S 1147 Bar dstown Rd., 451-044 7. As a r epeat invitee t o Manhattan’ s James Bear d House , Chef Kathy Cary shar es her K entucky-accented cooking skills with the r est of the nation. Lilly’ s c ombines sophisticated s tyle and Cary’ s cr eative c ookery t o

ALL RESTAURANTS ARE LOCATED IN LOUISVILLE (unless noted otherwise) All phone numbers are local calls. When out of the area, use area code 502 for all listings except Indiana, use 812. keep this landmark r estaurant one of L ouisville’s dining favorites. $$$$ p e LIMESTONE 10001 Forest Green Blvd., 426-7477. To succeed in the r estaurant busines s, k eep doing what y ou do bes t. Chefs Jim Gerhar dt and Michael Cunha ha ve followed this simple f ormula with c onsiderable suc cess at Limes tone, tr ansporting the c oncept that br ought them international culinary k udos at the Seelbach’ s Oakroom with good eff ect in these modern quarters in the East End. $$$ p THE OAKROOM 500 S. Fourth St. (Seelbach Hotel), 585-32 00. Ex ecutive Chef T odd Richar ds has been cutting a swath, with recent appearances at James Bear d House and Ir on Chef America.

Richards and right-hand-man Chef Duane Nutt er have made the onc e-staid old Oakr oom one of the city’s most exciting places to dine. $$$$ p PARK PLACE RESTAURANT 401 E. Main St. (Slugger Field), 515-0172. Chef Jay Denham has settled in as e xecutive chef no w, and he pr esides o ver a renovated dining r oom and a ne w menu. T his signature r estaurant in L ouisville Slugger Field remains a r eliable place to enjoy a quality meal in a comfortable setting. $$$$ p f e PORTICO Caesars Indiana Casino, Elizabeth, IN, 888766-2648. High-end luxury and s tyle bring a tas te of Las V egas t o Metr o L ouisville in this pric ey, white-tablecloth eatery located on the gr ounds of Caesars Indiana. You don’t have to be a high r oller to enjoy its luxury fare and service. $$$$ p

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PROOF ON MAIN 702 W. Main St., 2 17 -6360. T his stylish spot in the posh 2 1C Museum Hot el at Seventh & Main has earned a firm plac e in the t op tier of local eat eries. Chef Michael P aley pr eside over a modern American bill of f are with dis tinct Tuscan influences. $$$ p SEVICHE A LA TIN RES TAURANT 1538 Bar dstown Rd., 473-8560, 2929 Goose Cr eek Rd., 425- 1000.

Chef Anthon y Lamas has been winning national praise f or his cr eative c ookery, fr equently appearing in national f ood media and making a regular tr ek t o James Bear d House in NY C. Seviche, as the name implies, specializ es in the Latino seafood dish “ cooked” in tart citrus juic es.

Now ther e’s another Se viche, bringing a similar Latino vibe t o the ‘burbs: Se viche A Latin Bistro on Goose Creek Road. $$$$ p f VINCENZO’S 150 S. Fifth St., 580- 1350. Known f or its suave professional service, high-end Northern Italian fare and many trademark dishes finished at tableside, V incenzo’s c ontinues t o hold its o wn against growing downtown competition. $$$$ p WINSTON’S RES TAURANT 3101 Bar dstown Rd., (Sullivan Univ ersity Campus ), 456-0980 .

Renovated quarters kick Winston’s up a not ch as culinary arts s tudents at Sulliv an University s taff this fine-dining r estaurant on the campus, under the guiding hand of Chef John Castro. Open Fri. Sun. Only. Reservations suggested. $$$$ p

with San Fr ancisco’s Slant ed Door and Cincinnati’s Pho Paris. $$ p BLU IT ALIAN MEDITERRANEAN GRILLE 2 80 W .

Jefferson St. (L ouisville Marriott), 62 7-5045. BLU offers upscale Italian Medit erranean cuisine in striking surr oundings highlight ed b y Me xican limestone and Italian marble . For those seeking a relaxing libation and a quick er snack, the Bar at BLU offers a more casual alternative. $$$ p BRAVO! 206 Bullitt Ln. (Oxmoor Center), 326-0491.

Management describes the Ohio-based Br avo! chain as “ a fun, whit e-tablecloth casual eat ery … positioned betw een the fine-dining and casual chains.” A R oman-ruin setting houses abundant Italian-American style fare. We particularly enjoyed appetizers and first-rate grilled meats. $$ p f BRISTOL BAR & GRILLE 132 1 Bardstown Rd., 4561702, 300 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 426-0627, 614 W. Main St., 582 - 1995, 6051 T imber Ridge Dr ., 2 9 2 2585, 2035 S. Third St., 634-2723. The Bristol has been a s tar on L ouisville’s bis tro sc ene sinc e it helped kick off the Bar dstown R oad r estaurant renaissance 30 years ago this year. Old standards like the gr een-chile w on t ons and the Bris tol

Burger are always reliable, and the wine program is exceptional. $$ p f CAVIAR J APANESE RES TAURANT 416 W .

Muhammad Ali Blv d., 62 5- 3090. Samm y Sa, the genial host of the Fuji restaurants in the East End, adds a do wntown pr esence with this s tylish Japanese eatery next door to the Seelbach Hotel.

Eat at the sushi bar , choose a c omfortable table or r eserve the tr aditional Japanese-s tyle Tatami Room for your group. $$$ p CHEESECAKE FACTORY 5000 Shelbyville Rd., 8973933. “Cheesecak e” is its name , and this glitzy shopping-mall eatery offers a wide variety of rich, calorific choic es t o eat in or tak e out. It ’s mor e than just cheesecake, though, with a wide-ranging menu of California, Southwestern and Pacific Rim fare plus full bar servic e. $$ p CLUB GROTTO 2116 Bardstown Rd., 459-5275. Club Grotto’s s tylish and r omantically dim en virons add up to a comfortable, familiar Highlands spot that’s worth making a special effort to remember. $$$ p COACH LAMP RESTAURANT 751 Vine St., 583-9165.

This urban neighborhood tavern serves “pub grub”

Z’S O YSTER BAR & S TEAKHOUSE 101 Whittingt on Pkwy., 429-8000. This exciting spot brings a level of fine dining to the suburbs that makes it stand out in the chain-rich en virons outside the W atterson.

Splendid steaks, extraordinary seafood, fine service and clubby ambience give Z’s the tools to dominate in the steakhouse competition. $$$$ p

60 WEST BISTRO & MARTINI BAR 3939 Shelbyville Rd., 7 19-9717. T his s tylish Eas t End eat ery has undergone a name and image tr ansplant, morphing fr om Caf e Emilie t o 60 W est and shooting f or a casually upscale f eel not diminished b y a s trong martini bar . L ook f or casual f are at lunch and mor e elegant dining in the evening. $$ p f ARTEMISIA 62 0 E. Mark et St., 583-4 177. A v ery good fit with the bus tling east-of-downtown arts scene, Artemisia rates as favorite dinner venue in an artful gallery setting, with an attr active alfresco option in its f our-season enclosed courtyard, Art emisia off ers s tylish f are t o please both vegetarians and omnivores. $$$ p f e ASIATIQUE 1767 Bardstown Rd., 451-2749. Chef Peng Looi has w on diners’ r aves and man y culinary awards during Asiatique’ s long local t enure. His innovative Asian-fusion cuisine has w on him invitations to New York City’s James Bear d house and many local accolades. $$$ p f AUSTIN’S 4950 US 42, 423-1990. Big, crowded and bistro-style, with heavy emphasis on the bar, this suburban w atering hole taps the same v ein as the national fr anchise booze ’n’ beef genr e, and does so w ell, off ering satisfying dining at a f air price. $$ p AVALON 1314 Bardstown Rd., 454-5336. This stylish spot on Bar dstown R oad off ers a fr esh and creative bill of f are that pr esents American and international cuisine with a dis tinct Southern accent. Extra points for the popular outdoor patio that’s open for a good part of the y ear. $$$ p f BASA MODERN VIETNAMESE 2244 Frankfort Ave., 896-1016. Michael and St even T on ar e winning raves f or their sleek and upscale ne w restaurant with its “fusion” blend of V ietnamese and w orld culinary influences, a mix that in vites comparison

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for lunch, but C oach Lamp turns int o a mor e serious dining room Wednesday through Saturday evenings with dishes that r ange from down-home favorites to pastas. $$$ f CORNER CAFÉ 9307 New Lagrange Rd., 426-8119 .

There’s nothing fancy or overly elegant about this suburban neighborhood old favorite, but the term “eclectic” fits it well. $$ p INTERMEZZO AMERICAN CAFÉ & CABARET 316 W. Main St., 584- 12 65. T he elegant r estaurant space in A ctor’s T heatre of L ouisville’s his toric building features casual American bistro fare in an attractive dining room, plus nightly entertainment in a cabaret style. $$$ p e J. ALEXANDER’S RESTAURANT 102 Oxmoor Court, 339-2 2 06. T his c omfortably upscale v enue, a Nashville-based chain, f eatures “ contemporary American” f are with a br oad menu that r anges from burgers and sandwiches to such upscale eats as grilled tuna or a New York strip steak. $$$ p f J. HARROD’S 7507 Upper Riv er Rd., 2 2 8-4555. J .

Harrod’s is discr eetly tas teful and pleasantly comfortable. The food is competitive in both quality and value. It’s an appealing, upscale blend of bis tro fare and old-fashioned country cooking. $$$ p JACK FR Y’S 1007 Bar dstown Rd., 45 2 -92 44. If y ou want to give visiting friends a one-shot sample of Louisville’s urban dining s tyle, ther e’s no bett er destination than Jack Fry’ s. T his popular spot is always packed. It sa ves just a whiff of the r affish aspect of its 1960s-er a pr edecessor, a local saloon, but upgr ades it with cr eative American fare in a bistro setting. $$$$ p e JARFI’S BIS TRO 501 W . Main St., 589-5060 . T he affable Jeff Jarfi is the epon ymous hos t of this sharp, stylish venue in the K entucky Center for the Arts. Eclectic cuisine—including sushi!—plus popular lunch and pr e-theater buff ets ar e attracting happy crowds. $$$ p JOHN E’S 3708 Bar dstown Rd., 456- 1111. T his old Louisville tradition earns a warm recommendation.

From its c ozy setting in a his toric Buechel home to its do wn-home servic e t o its good Americanstyle fare at reasonable prices. $$$$ p e KT’S 2 300 L exington Rd., 458-8888. It ’s har d t o argue with suc cess, and K T’s has earned its popularity by providing good American-style bar and bistro chow for a price that’s fair. $$ p f MAKER’S MARK BOURBON HOUSE & LOUNGE Fourth Str eet Liv e, 568-9009 . Under a lic ensing agreement with the management of Fourth Street Live, K entucky’s Mak er’s Mark Dis tillery lends its name and its signatur e r ed-wax image t o this stylish r estaurant and lounge in the booming downtown entertainment complex. A magis terial bar f eatures mor e than 60 Bourbons, and the menu offers traditional Kentucky fare. $$$ p f MELTING POT 2045 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-3125.

This Florida-based chain brings back pleasant memories of fondue parties of the ’70s. If you can melt it and dip things in it, the Melting Pot probably has it on the menu. $$$ p MOJITO TAPAS RES TAURANT 2 2 31 Holida y Manor Shopping C enter, 42 5-094 9. ( see r eview under European/Spanish) NAPA RIVER GRILL 3938 Dupont Circle, 893-0141.

This s tylish St. Matthe ws venue spans Calif ornia and the Pacific Rim, earning its reputation as one of the city’ s leading r estaurants on the basis of Innovative wine-country cuisine, excellent service and a fine California-focused wine collection. $$$ pf NERO’S Caesars Indiana Casino , Elizabeth, IN, 888766-2648. Joining Portic o as the sec ond high-end, fine-dining r estaurant at Caesar ’s Indiana, Ner o’s complements Portic o’s all- American s teak-andseafood theme with a br oader int ernational menu 60 Fall 2007 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

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that ranges from Tuscan fettuccini to Memphis BBQ pork ribs. $$$ p OLD S TONE INN 6905 Shelbyville Rd., Simpson ville, KY, (502) 722-8200. Under the management of Paul Crump, f ormerly of Por cini, this his toric s tone building (east of L ouisville in Simpson ville) carries on the r eputation that has made the c omfortably nostalgic r estaurant popular f or mor e than a generation. $$$ p f THE P ATRON 3400 Fr ankfort A ve., 896- 1661.

Viewed from the perspective of an e vening meal, the P atron off ers some of the bes t c ooking in town. Chef Amber McC ool off ers a dinner menu that changes fr equently, based on what ’s available and perhaps the chef’s whim. It’s not just adventurous but civilized. $$ p P.F. CHANG’S CHINA BIS TRO 912 0 Shelb yville Rd., 32 7-7707. T his Ariz ona-based, Chinese themed restaurant off ers a loud, happ y sc ene with Chinese-style dishes. T o its cr edit, e verything is prepared well and service is consistently fine. $$ p RAW SUSHI L OUNGE 52 0 S. F ourth St., 585-5880 (see listing under Asian/Japanese) RED S TAR T AVERN Fourth Str eet Liv e, 568-5656.

Billed as “a hip, contemporary version of the classic American ta vern,” this chain oper ation in F ourth Street LIve features steaks, chops and seaf ood in an atmosphere that’s upscale and clubb y, with an extensive bar as a key part of the action. $$$ p f RIVUE 140 N. F ourth St., ( Galt House Hot el) 5895200. As part of an o verall makeover, Galt House management has c ompletely redone the dark old Flagship R oom, c onverting the hot el’s r evolving building-top v enue int o a sophis ticated, upscale and architecturally stunning dining room. $$$ p RICK’S FERRARI GRILLE 3930 Chenoweth Ln., 8930106. Popular local restaurateur Rick Dissell is the amiable host at this St. Matthe ws restaurant that bears his name , and w e don’t mean “F errari.”

Excellent libations and upscale American f are make it a popular des tination. $$ p f e

1722 Frankfort Ave., Louisville

502-896-8770

www.northendcafe.com

ROCKWALL BISTRO 3426 Paoli Pike, Floyds Knobs, IN., 948-1705. This stylish spot takes full advantage of an old rock-quarry location in scenic Floyds Knobs to offer an atmospheric eatery, with a creative menu and an int eresting, aff ordable wine lis t. It ’s w ell worth the trip acr oss the Ohio f or one of the ar ea’s most enjoyable dining experiences. $$ p f SPEAKEASY 225 State St., New Albany, IN, 981-0981.

Another k ey pla yer in the de veloping Southern Indiana r enaissance, T he Speak easy off ers c ontemporary bis tro-style f are in a jazz bar setting, with nightly ent ertainment r anging fr om jazz t o big band music. $$$ p f e UPTOWN CAFÉ 162 4 Bar dstown Rd., 458-42 12 .

Across the s treet and a s tep downscale from its partner, Café Metro, the Uptown Café (now a nonsmoking venue except f or the bar) off ers similar fare with a bit more of a bistro feel for quite a few bucks less. $$ p f VARANESE 2106 Frankfort Ave., 899-9904. The old Red L ounge has under gone a tr ansformation, upgradet t o a s tunning new dining r oom named for o wner and chef , John V aranese, who’ s been executive chef at U of L ’s Car dinal Club and Azalea. Veranese puts his personal s tamp on an exciting, upscale casual and int ernationally flavored bill of f are. Liv e jazz, c ontemporary art and urban style complete the mood. $$$ p f e VOLARE 2 300 Fr ankfort A ve., 894-4446. (See review under European/Italian) YACHING’S EA ST WES T CUISINE 105 S. F ourth St., 585-4005. Yaching’s promises “an eclectic menu of contemporary Asian fusion cuisine.” It’s an attractive mix of Eas t and W est, sufficient t o give jus t about everyone something t o enjo y, r egardless of which compass point attracts your taste buds. $$$ p www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Fall 2007 61

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ATRIUM CAFÉ 9940 C orporate Campus Dr .

(Embassy Suit es), 42 6-9191. An eclectic bis tro atmosphere in the heart of the hotel. Specials run from their popular cr ab cakes and arr ay of pas ta dishes to a Reuben sandwich or fruit pie . $$ p BAXTER S TATION BAR & GRILL 12 01 P ayne St., 584-1635. This cozy spot looks a lot lik e a neighborhood saloon, but the eclectic menu and unique atmospher e tak e it a not ch upscale , and the weatherized patio is comfortable almost yearround. Take particular not e of an impr essive beer list to go with your meal. $$ p f BISTRO 301 301 W. Mark et St., 584-833 7. Quality contemporary American cuisine in a s tylish, recently renovated environment makes Bistro 301 a r easonable alt ernative when y ou’re looking f or upscale-casual dining downtown. $$$ p f BLUEGRASS BISTRO 3819 Bardstown Rd., 458-6 111.

Chef Sc ott Schamel brings a gourmet-s tyle sensitility t o this attr active luncheon spot in the Derby City Antique Mall in Buechel. Menu choices rarely mis s; if Pos sum Pie is the des sert special, don’t fail to choose it. $ BOURBONS BIS TRO 2 2 55 Fr ankfort A ve., 8948838. Bourbon, K entucky’s tr aditional nectar, owns a plac e of honor in L ouisville eateries and watering holes that sho wcase its pleasur es.

Bourbons Bis tro c ombines a fine bar and comfortably upscale-casual restaurant featuring what mus t be the w orld’s mos t c omprehensive Bourbon list. The bill of fare is well-matched with the excellence of its libations. $$$ p f BRIX WINE BAR 12418 La Gr ange Rd., 2 43-112 0. T he use of an e xceptionally obscur e wine t erm (it ’s pronounced “bricks” and refers to the sugar content of ripe gr apes at harv est) hints that the pr oprietors of this ne w wine bar kno w their f ood. Int eresting wines and a short bis tro-style menu mak e it a welcome suburban addition. $ CAFÉ LOU LOU 106 Sears Ave, 893-7776. This popular spot has been winning critical r aves and packing in crowds in its ne w St. Matthe ws location. OwnerChef Cla y W allace is c omfortable with his international bill of fare that ranges from Louisiana to the Mediterranean, and the Cafe’s trademark colorful, bold art underscores its laissez les bon temps rouler mood. $$ p DITTO’S GRILL 1114 Bar dstown Rd., 581-912 9 .

Highlands f avorite. Chef /Co-owner Domonic Serratore—a pioneer of the local dining sc ene— offers an int ernationally eclectic bill of f are that ranges fr om K ansas City ribs and Ne w England crab cak es t o T hai chick en wings and Chinese burritos. $$ p HARD ROCK CAFÉ Fourth Str eet Liv e, 568-2 2 0 2 .

Louisville’s Fourth Street Live opened with a bang amid hammering guitars and happy throngs as the city gained its first branch of this popular shrine t o rock with its giant neon guitar to show you the way.

The music sc ene is the dr aw, but y ou’ll ha ve no complaints about Har d Rock’s standard American cuisine. $$ p f e JACK’S L OUNGE 12 2 Sears A ve., 89 7-902 6. A sophisticated, elegant bar as sociated with the Equus restaurant next door, Jack’s offers a short but e xcellent menu f eaturing appetiz ers and light bit es, along with a drinks lis t be yond reproach. $ p JAZZ F ACTORY 815 W . Mark et St. ( Glassworks), 992 -32 42 . L ouisville’s r estored Glas sworks building mak es a natur al home f or this edgy , stylish venue f or serious, liv e jazz. No w in-house food pr ep in c ooperation with clas sy P ark Plac e adds luster to the bill of f are. $$ p e 62 Fall 2007 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

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KIMIS A SIAN BIS TRO 1915 Blank enbaker Pk wy., 263-1915. Restaurateur John Chung is amiable host at this Eas t End v enture, an upscale Asian bis tro that blends tr aditional Japanese f are with Chinese and K orean fla vors, including such P acific Rim dishes as sushi, Chilean sea bass with sweet mango and torched salmon in parchment paper. $$ p L&N WINE BAR AND BIS TRO 1765 Mellwood Ave., 897-0070. If y ou’re enthusias tic about good wine, you’re going t o be excited about L &N. The fruit of the vine takes center stage in a vast, fairly priced wine list and imposing Cruvinet dispenser, with over 100 wines a vailable by the glass. Comfortable exposed-brick atmosphere and excellent bistro fare add to the draw. $$ p f NIOS 917 Baxt er A ve., 456- 7080. Specializing in a selection of “small plates,” a concept akin to tapas or the similar Latino bocaditos, Nios hits a culinary home run in this his toric building that housed Jupiter Grill and later @mosphere. $$$ p f RAMSI’S CAFÉ ON THE W ORLD 12 93 Bar dstown Rd., 451-0700. Small, funk y and fun, this f avorite spot of the Highlands’ Gener ation X cr owd attracts f oodies of all ages with its friendly setting, r easonable pric es and w ell-prepared international cuisine. $$ f SWEET PEA S SOUTHERN 2 350 Fr ankfort A ve., 894-9091. T his c omfortable Cr escent Hill spot features traditional Southern f are with a t ouch of creative innovation. Expansive lunch and weekend buffets offer particularly fine value. $ p f TOLOGONO 3702 L exington Rd., 899-2 005. Y ou can’t sit do wn t o dine at T ologono, but its experienced chefs will mak e you a gourmet-style meal for take out or delivery within range of its St. Matthews v enue. I’v e f ound the dishes competitive with local bis tro f are in quality and price. $$

ANGIE’S CAFÉ 4010 Dupont Circle, 895-7064. This small r etail bak ery and deli, hidden a way on the back side of the Dupont Pr ofessional T ower building near Napa Riv er Grill in St. Matthe ws’ Dupont Cir cle shopping dis trict, off ers an affordable option for neighborhood diners. $ APPLEBY’S CAFÉ & WINE BAR 2 01 Spring St., Jeffersonville, IN, 2 83- 3663. Fine dining in a casual atmospher e. F are r anges fr om a wardwinning chili and the “Big St eve” burger at lunch to fine dining at night. T he recently added W ine Cellar offers the same fine fare and classy wine in a more casual atmosphere. $ p e f AROMA CAFÉ Caesars Indiana Casino , Elizabeth, IN, 888- 766-2 648. Gr ab a bit e bef ore hitting the casino . Sandwiches, salads, sides, c old beverages and coffee will fuel you for a night of entertainment. $ BLUE DOG BAKER Y AND CAFÉ 2 868 Fr ankfort Ave., 899-9800 . T his bak ery with its $50 ,000 Spanish wood-fired oven makes artisanal bread as good as you’ll find in the US, and competitive with the best in Eur ope. Its c omfortable, upscale café offers a short selection of tas ty dishes made t o show off the fine breads. $$ f BLUE MOUNT AIN C OFFEEHOUSE & WINE BAR 400 E. Main St., 582 - 32 2 0. Hos t Nicholas Arno adds a Jamaican ac cent, and Jamaican Blue Mountain coffee is the specialty, at this sleek and sophisticated new spot across Main from Slugger Field. A c offee house b y da y, it adds a wine-bar vibe in the evenings. $$ f THE BOUNTIFUL BREAD BAKER Y CAFÉ 1311 Herr Ln., 5 2 3-82 05. Another early arriv al in the s tillredeveloping W estport V illage shopping c enter, this upscale bakery is building a buzz among local foodies with its pr omise of old w orld artisan www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Fall 2007 63

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bread and simple, hearty homemade f are. It’s the first expansion of an Alban y, N.Y., firm that hopes to grow into a chain. $ f e BULLDOG CAFÉ 10619 W. Manslick Rd., 380-0600. $ f THE BUTTERFLY GARDEN CAFÉ 132 7 Bar dstown Rd., 456-4500. This tasteful little spot off ers teas and light er lunch f are in an attr active old-house setting. $ f CAFÉ FRAICHE 3642 Br ownsboro Rd., 894-89 2 9.

Cuisine from around the w orld is f eatured at this East End neighborhood café, f eaturing homemade soups, breads and a variety of entrées on a seasonally changing menu. $ CAFÉ J 3600 Dut chmans Ln. ( Jewish C ommunity Center), 459-0660. This authentic delicatessen in the Jewish Community Center offers fully k osher fare including homemade soups, salads and wideranging hot entrées. $ f CAMILLE’S SIDEWALK CAFÉ 2060 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 493-2005 $ f CHEDDAR BO X CAFÉ 12 12 1 Shelb yville Rd., 2 452622, 3909 Chenoweth Sq., 893-2324. Ladies who lunch oft en do so her e, lur ed b y an attr active selection of luncheon soups, salads and sandwiches .and desserts. $ f CITY CAFÉ 1907 S. F ourth St., 6 35-02 2 2 , 505 W .

Broadway, 589- 1797, 12 50 Bar dstown Rd., 4595600, 500 S. Pr eston St., 85 2 -5739. Chef Jim Henry, a long-time s tar in the city’ s culinary firmament, brings his cooking skills and insistence on fresh, quality ingr edients to these simple , but excellent, spots for lunch. $ f CRAVE CAFÉ & CA TERING 2 2 50 Fr ankfort A ve., 896-1488. Experienc ed cat erers and chefs off er casual but quality café fare in this comfortable old frame house in Clifton. $ f CYCLERS CAFÉ 2295 Lexington Rd., 451-5152. Is it a bicycle shop or a r estaurant? Well, it ’s both. T his informal spot will sell y ou a firs t-rate sandwich, soup or salad or a tire for your bike—or the whole darn bike! $ f DERBY CAFÉ 704 C entral A ve. (K entucky Derb y Museum), 634-0858. Lunch serv ed year-round in the dining ar ea adjac ent t o the Derb y Museum with such regional favorites as meaty Burgoo, and the Hot Brown. $ f ERMIN’S BAKER Y & CAFÉ 12 01 S. Firs t St., 6 356960, 723 S. F ourth St., 58 7-9390, 454 S. F ourth Ave., 585-5120, 9550 U.S. Hwy 42, 228-7210, 2736 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 941-8674. These popular bak eries attr act cr owds looking f or an enjoyable soup and sandwich lunch highlighted by French-style breads and pastries. $ FEDERAL HILL 310 Pearl St., Ne w Albany IN, 9486646. $ f GERMANTOWN CAFÉ 1053 Gos s A ve., 6 37-9412 .

One of the man y old-f ashioned, simple and welcoming bars serving pub grub in L ouisville’s old Germantown neighborhood is as good a spot as any for a hot burger and a cold beer. $ p f e GRAPEVINE PANTRY & GIFT SHOP 11418 Old Main St., Middlet own, K Y, 2 45-1569. T he Middlet own Historic Dis trict is booming with s torefronts, restaurants and a laid back glimpse of the pas t.

The Gr apevine P antry off ers homemade soups, sandwiches and salads, cakes and pies. $ J. GRAHAM’S CAFÉ & BAR 335 W. Broadway (The Brown Hot el), 583- 12 34. T he Br own’s casual café offers an alternative to the upscale English Grill. $ p JENICCA’S CAFÉ & WINE BAR 636 E. Mark et St., 587-872 0. A w orthy edition t o the booming arts district east of downtown, Jenicca’s is sophisticated and stylish, a fine c offee shop and casual wine bar with light fare and an upscale art-gallery vibe . $ f 64 Fall 2007 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

KAYROUZ CAFÉ 12 7 W iltshire Ave., 896-2 6 31. T hose who w ere saddened b y the los s of St. Matthe ws landmark J.P. Kayrouz will be delighted to learn that another K ayrouz gener ation is back in busines s, starting small in the tiny spot that once housed the original Tony Boombo zz. T hey’ve made good use of the spac e, off ering man y of the f amily’s old favorites in a stylishly renovated setting. $ f MERIDIAN CAFÉ 112 Meridian A ve., 897-9703. This little lunch spot oc cupies a c ozy old house in St. Matthews. Servic e is c ompetent and polit e, the place is sparkling clean, and the luncheon-s tyle fare ranges from good to excellent. $ MR. Z’S KITCHEN 869 S. Third St., 584-8504. It’s run by a friendly immigr ant f amily fr om Eas tern Europe, but the f ood is all- American at Mr . Z’ s Kitchen. It offers an appetizing option for a hearty diner-style meal. $ NORTH END CAFÉ 1722 Frankfort Ave., 896-8770.

This atmospheric Clift on spot in an artfully redesigned old shotgun house is one of the city’s most popular spots f or upscale casual dining.

The eclectic menu off ers div erse tapas and interesting entrées. It ’s an appealing, aff ordable place to dine. $ f PIG AND A PEPPERMINT 9521 US Hwy 42, 292-1245. $ f QUEUE CAFÉ 220 W. Main St. (LG&E Building), 583-0273. $ SWEET ‘N’ S AVORY CAFÉ 1574 Bar dstown Rd., 456-6566. Hearty brunch f are with a v egetarian accent mak es S weet ‘n’ Sa vory a popular destination for the Bardstown Road bunch. $ SWEET SURRENDER 1804 Frankfort Ave., 458-6363.

After moving from its original Fr ankfort Avenue to Bardstown R oad a f ew y ears ago , o wner Jes sica Haskell has r eturned to her original neighborhood.

A light lunch menu is a vailable as w ell as the trademark desserts. $$ f THE CAFÉ 712 Br ent St., 6 37-6869. L ong hailed as one of the city’s most attractive places for a simple but s tylish lunch, this local ins titution has mo ved from the old L ouisville Antique Mall on Gos s Avenue (which is being converted into condos), to a more easily accessible storefront location just off East Broadway. $ THIRD AVENUE CAFÉ 1164 South Third St., 585-2233.

One of m y f avorite plac es f or a casual meal, this exceptionally pleasant neighborhood eat ery is attracting lo yal cr owds with e xcellent f are and a cozy setting that brings you back for more. $$ p f e TREET’S BAKER Y CAFÉ 133 E. Mark et St., Ne w Albany, IN., 945-5440 . T he old W ilcox Block building in his toric do wntown Ne w Alban y probably never housed a mor e cozy tenant than Treets, wher e T eresa Clancy pr esides o ver an imposing selection of br eads, coffee drinks, light lunch fare and sweet, well, treats. $ f WHITNEY’S DINER 3061 Br eckenridge Ln., 454-5955.

Recently relocated a mile or so in Bar dstown Road from its original F ern Cr eek location, Whitne y’s remains a c omfortable spot f or a casual, diner-s tyle breakfast, lunch or dinner. $ WILD EGGS 3985 Dut chmans Ln., 89 3-8005. T he owners of Napa Riv er Grill ha ve hit a home run with the launch of this popular , high-quality spot, set t o be the firs t in a gr owing mini-chain. W ild Eggs serv es br eakfast, brunch and lunch.

Traditional f avorites and specialty omelets ar e featured, with upscale t ouches at moder ate prices, plus a trained espresso barista and full bar service. $ p

BONEFISH GRILL 657 S. Hurs tbourne Pk wy., 4 12 4666. T his fr anchise c oncept fr om the Floridabased Outback St eakhouse chain off ers impressive seafood in a c omfortable setting. Add

Bonefish t o y our short lis t of suburban chain eateries that do the job right. $$$ p CAROLINA SHRIMP & SEAFOOD 392 2 W estport Rd., 894-8947. In an Eas t End neighborhood rich with seaf ood eat eries, Car olina off ers a tas ty option within w alking dis tance of do wntown St. Matthews. T his spartan little joint f eatures shellfish and c od, much of it healthfully s teamed, not fried, in an aff ordable family setting. $ CLARKSVILLE SEAFOOD 916 Eas tern Blv d., Clarksville, IN, 2 83-8588. As the only surviving descendant of Louisville’s old Cape Codder chain, Clarksville Seafood upholds a long and honorable tradition. The menu is simple—fried fish and fried seafood, serv ed on paper tr ays—but it is consistently excellent and affordable. $ THE FISH HOUSE 1310 W inter A ve., 568-2 99 3.

Louisville is as o verflowing as a w ell-stocked lake with fish-sandwich houses, and The Fish House is right up there with the best. Crisp breading laced with black pepper is the signatur e of Green River fried fish from Western Kentucky. $ f THE FISHER Y 362 4 L exington Rd., 895- 1188. T he original fried-fish eatery in a neighborhood that ’s now awash with them, T he Fishery remains justly popular f or its quick, sizzling hot and aff ordable fish and seafood meals. $ f HILL STREET FISH FRY 111 E. Hill St., 636-3474. This Old Louisville tradition is small and eas y to miss, but it ’s worth the effort to get by. Its oversize fried whitefish sandwich is the flagship dish, but a v aried menu is also available. $ f ISLAMORADA FISH COMPANY 951 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarks ville, IN, 2 18-5300 . Spa wned b y a beachside eat ery in the Florida K eys, Islamor ada Fish Company has locations in many of the nation’s 30 Bass Pro Shops, including Clarks ville’s gigantic entry in the f ormer Riv er F alls Mall. Beach-shack decor adds fun, and its e xpansive menu off ers a broad selection of seafood and fish. $$ p JOE’S CRAB SHA CK 131 Riv er Rd., 568- 1171. T he setting is bright, noisy and fun. But the food is the bottom line , and I’m pleased t o r eport that the seafood at Joe’s uniformly fresh and fine. $$ p f JOJO’S FISH MARKET 2 902 Bar dstown Rd., 4517100. This small Highlands shop , vacant since the closing of the short-lived Highland Fish Market, is frying fish again, with dec or and s tyle so little changed that they’re still using the same sign out front. Fried fish sandwiches, oversized fish tacos and other seafood fare are first-rate and fairly priced. $ KINGFISH RES TAURANT 302 1 Upper Riv er Rd., 895-0544, 1610 Kentucky Mills Dr., 240-0700, 601 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville, IN, 284-3474. Fried fish in a f amily dining setting has made this local chain a popular favorite for many years. Two of its properties—upper Riv er R oad and Riv erside Drive—boast river views. $$ p f MAZZONI’S O YSTER CAFÉ 2 804 Taylorsville Rd., 451-4436. A his tory that dat es t o 1884 mak es Mazzoni’s one of the city’ s longes t-running restaurant acts. It mo ved fr om do wntown t o the suburbs a gener ation ago , but k ept its his toric serving bar and its urban f eeling, with pub grub , cold beer and the famous rolled oyster. $ MIKE LINNIG’S 9308 Cane Run Rd., 937-9888. Mike Linnig’s has been dishing up tas ty fried fish and seafood at f amily pric es sinc e 19 2 5 and r emains immensely popular. There’s indoor seating and a bar, but the picnic grove with its giant shade trees makes Linnig’s a special place in season. $ f MITCHELL’S FISH MARKET 4031 Summit Plaza Dr ., 412 -1818. T he dec or of this upscale , C olumbusbased chain e vokes the f eeling of a lar ge fish market, with an open kit chen that offers views of chefs at w ork. Quality seaf ood and servic e has made this a popular des tination. $$$ p f

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PASSTIME FISH HOUSE 10801 Locust Rd., 267-4633. $fe PROSPECT FISH MARKET 952 1A US 42 , Pr ospect, 2 2 8-6962 . If y ou’re on the eas tern edge of the metropolitan ar ea, Pr ospect Fish Mark et off ers good, aff ordable fish in a pleasant shoppingcenter setting. $ RUMORS RESTAURANT & RAW BAR 12339 Shelbyville Rd., 2 45-0366. V isualize Hoot er’s without the scantily-clad waitresses, and you’ve drawn a bead on Rumor’s, the original L ouisville home of the buck etof-oysters and impressive raw bar. $$ p f SHAROM’S 562 7 Out er L oop, 968-836 3. F amily owned and f amily style dining with a wide net of seafood dinners and appetizers. Lunch and dinner menus also include such delicacies as fr og legs, shrimp and alligator. $ p STAN’S FISH S ANDWICH 372 3 L exington Rd., 8966600. T he fish is the thing at Stan’ s, wher e the owner is a perfectionist who won’t sell any but the freshest fish, perf ectly pr epared. I’v e ne ver had a better fish sandwich an ywhere. W atch f or daily specials that take advantage of fresh product. $ ]

BABBY’S STEAKHOUSE 108 S. Fourth St., Utica, IN., 288-2411. This independent-minded s teakhouse is one of the metr o ar ea’s bes t v alues f or e xpertly prepared steaks. They come in all the usual siz es and c onfigurations, but someone in the kit chen has definite opinions about seasoning and grilling.

The result is a distinctive approach that rewards a visit. $$ f DEL FRISC O’S 4107 Oechsli A ve., 89 7-7077. Onc e ranked among the city’ s t op s teakhouses, Del Frisco’s r emains s trong in its c ore c ompetency.

For deeply marbled, fork-tender prime steaks, it’s still hard to beat on quality points. $$$$ p FIFTH QUARTER STEAKHOUSE 1241 Durrett Ln., 3612363. The Fifth Quarter has that touch of class that evokes family nostalgia and romantic interludes. An attentive staff serves the sirloin y our way. Some of the city’ s bes t iv ory mas ters ar e at the piano t o enhance the dining experience. $$$ p f e FRANK’S S TEAK HOUSE 52 0 W . Se venth St., Jeffersonville, IN, 2 83- 3383, 9601 Shelb yville Rd., 42 9-3714. A longtime north-of-the-riv er f avorite, this neighborhood steakhouse now offers venues on both sides of the riv er, where steak lovers will find c omfort and hearty meals without pomp or circumstance. $$ p JEFF RUB Y’S S TEAKHOUSE 32 5 W. Main St., 5840102. Cincinnati restaurateur Jeff Ruby, who owns five upscale eateries in the upriver city and one at Indiana’s Belt erra Casino , no w hos ts this glitzy Louisville pr operty, an upscale s teak house that bears his name . Fine beef is the main dr aw, with seafood and even sushi as a plus. $$$$ p e LOGAN’S ROADHOUSE 5055 Shelbyville Rd., 89 33884, 5 2 2 9 Dixie Hw y., 448-05 77, 9 70 Hw y. 131, Clarksville, IN, 2 88-9 789. W ith mor e than 100 properties in 17 s tates, this Nash ville-based chain parlays peanut shells on the floor and s teaks on the table into a popular formula. $$ p LONGHORN S TEAKHOUSE 2 535 Hurs tbourne Ln., 671-5350, 9 700 V on Allmen Ct., 32 6- 7500, 12 10 Veterans Pk wy., Clarks ville, IN. 2 84-5800 .

Oversize steaks and a “big sky” western theme are the draw at this chain eatery, although most of its properties are east of the Mississippi. $$ p MORTON’S 62 6 W. Main St., 584-042 1. T he steaks are as good as it gets, the atmospher e is elegant without being s tuffy, and the servic e is outstanding. Mort on’s earns a solid thr ee s tars and r anks among the t op tier of L ouisville’s upscale dining choices. $$$$ p

OUTBACK STEAK HOUSE 4621 Shelbyville Rd., 895432 9, 65 2 0 Signatur e Dr ., 964-8383, 94 98 Brownsboro Rd., 42 6-432 9 , 8101 Bar dstown Rd., 2 31-2 399, 142 0 P ark Plac e, Clarks ville, IN, 2 834329. The name sugges ts Australia, and so does the shtick at this popular national chain, but the food is pr etty much f amiliar American, and the fare goes be yond jus t s teak t o tak e in chick en, seafood and pasta. $$$ p PAT’S S TEAK HOUSE 2 437 Br ownsboro Rd., 8969234. A visit to Pat’s may not be exactly like a trip back to the ‘50s, but when I at e there last, I think I sa w Ozzie and Harriet. A local f avorite, its combination of quality beef and hospitality rank it among the best steak houses in town. Bring cash: No credit cards accepted. $$$$ p

Celebrating 58 years as Louisville’s hometown favorite for top quality seafood and much, much more.

PONDEROSA S TEAKHOUSE 11470 S. Pr eston Hw y., 964-6117, 816 S. K Y 53, La Gr ange, K Y, 2 2 2 - 12 2 6.

Family-style dining with the r anch theme k ept alive with the open flame fr om the grills. An extensive buff et with hot and c old f oods, salads and desserts is also available. $ RUTH’S CHRIS STEAKHOUSE 6100 Dutchman’s Ln., 479-0026. The Robb Report magazine has declared Rolex the world’s best watch, Armani the best men’s suit, C ohiba the bes t cigar and Ruth’ s Chris the bes t r estaurant. It serv es an e xcellent steak in an atmosphere of elegance that will make you feel pampered, at a price to match. $$$$ p RYAN’S FAMILY STEAKHOUSE 5338 Bardstown Rd., 491-1088, 4 711 Dixie Hw y., 44 7-4781, 6 36 Eas tern Blvd., Clarksville, IN, 282-85 20. This popular North Carolina-based chain off ers f amily dining with good v ariety: Its div erse and e xtensive buff et features over 150 items. $ STONEY RIVER LEGEND ARY STEAK 3900 Summit Plaza Dr ., 42 9-8944. St oney Riv er in the Springhurst shopping center is one of the chain’ s first properties outside its Georgia home. It draws big cr owds with its memor able s teaks and trimmings, with e xtra points f or friendly servic e and a comfortable atmosphere. $$$ p

THREE CONVENIENT LOCATIONS: On the River: 3021 Upper River Road ■ 895-0544 (Just east of Zorn Ave @ I-71)

601 W. Riverside ■ 284-3474 (On the Jeffersonville riverfront across from Louisville)

Around Town: 1610 Kentucky Mills Dr. ■ 240-0700 (Blankenbaker @ 1-64)

TEXAS ROADHOUSE Green Tree Mall, Clarksville, IN, 2 80-1103, 4406 Dixie Hw y. 448-0 705, 6460 Dutchman’s Pk wy., 89 7-5005, 332 2 Out er L oop, 962-7600. The spirit of the W est sets the theme for this popular s teak house . Salads, v egetables and br eads with hearty side dishes r ound out your meal options. This is family-style dining, with no tray sliding—service at your table. $$ p TUMBLEWEED SOUTHWES T GRILL (17 locations ) (see listing under Southwest/Tex Mex)

A NICE RESTAURANT 3105 Blackiston Mill Rd., New Albany IN, 945-4321, 2784 Meijer Dr., 280-9160. A Nice R estaurant, billed as “Ne w Alban y’s Finer Diner,” is, well, nice. This sunny corner shop in the Old Mill Shopping C enter specializes in br eakfast and lunch. T he fare is do wn-home and simple , at a price you can afford. $ ANYTIMES A T THE RAMAD A INN 1041 Z orn A ve., 897-5101. Serving dinners only , the spacious restaurant opens at 4 p .m. and begins serving appetizers, salads, entrées and des serts. A s teak dinner is billed as the specialty of the house . $$ p APPLEBEE’S (9 locations ) T his cheery national chain f eatures an eclectic as sortment of salads, steaks, ribs, poultry and pas ta as w ell as full bar service. It ’s as c onsistent as a c ookie cutt er, but competent execution makes it a good bargain for those whose tas tes run t o mainstream American cuisine. $$ p BUCKHEAD MOUNT AIN GRILL 3008 Bar dstown Rd., 456-6680, 4112 Outer Loop, 966-5555, 7 07 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 284-2919. Buckhead’s combination o f mountain lodge atmospher e and www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Fall 2007 65

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American-style f are mak e these popular destinations. T he lar ge menu f eatures do wnhome staples like meat loaf , pot pies, s teak, ribs, and lighter fare for warm weather dining. The view of Louisville’s skyline from the riv erfront location is not to be missed. $$ p f CAFÉ MA GNOLIA 140 N. F ourth St. ( Galt House ), 589-52 00. T he Galt House’ s quick and casual second-floor dining alt ernative, this spacious venue—formerly the River Grille, offers a range of fare for guests on the go, from bacon and eggs to a late-night burger and fries. $$$ p CALIFORNIA PIZZA KITCHEN 7900 Shelbyville Rd. (Oxmoor C enter), 42 5-512 5. Calif ornia pizza became a tr end when f amous chefs ga ve this simple Italian f are a multi-ethnic spin with nontraditional Pacific Rim toppings. CPK successfully translates this trend for the mass market. $$ p f CAPTAIN’S QU ARTERS 5700 Captain’ s Quart ers Rd., 2 2 8- 1651. One of the city’ s mos t attr active eateries f or atmospher e, Captain’ s Quart ers matches the beautiful setting with quality bis trostyle f are that w on’t disappoint. Summer or winter, it’s a delightful place to dine. $$ p f e CARDINAL HALL OF F AME CAFÉ 2745 Crittenden Dr., 635-8686. This oversize eatery at Gate 4 of the Kentucky Fair & Exposition Center celebrates U of L sports with a “walk of fame” loaded with awards, photos, game balls and lots mor e Car dinal memorabilia. What? Y ou w ant f ood t oo? Sur e!

Casual American dining features everything from a “Cardinal Burger” to steaks and prime rib. $$ p

As the temperature drops drop on by Buckhead Mountain Grill.

CARLY RAE’S 103 W . Oak St., 3 79-432 0. T his attractive Old L ouisville spot with its memor able patio offers a diverse and appealing menu with an unusually wide v ariety of casual dining options, plus an exceptional beer list. $$ p f

Our mountain lodge setting and signature homestyle menu is the perfect pick for the late fall and winter season. With a blazing fire and a hearty meal there’s nothing better. Come relax and enjoy.

CHAMPIONS GRILL 505 Marriott Dr . (Holiday Inn), Clarksville, IN., 2 83-44 11. Kno wn b y locals f or its Saturday night buff et of Ne w Y ork s trip, ribe ye and prime rib . Salads, sandwiches, soups and a kid-friendly menu round out the selection. $$ p e

707 W Riverside Dr Jeffersonville, IN 812.284.2919 (spectacular view on the river, off I-65)

CHEDDAR’S CA SUAL CAFÉ 10403 Westport Rd., 339-5400, 1385 V eteran’s Pk wy., Clarks ville, IN, 280-9660. This popular Dallas-based chain, drawing big, hungry crowds with its lar ge bar and f amiliar “casual to upscale American” fare. $ p CHICK INN 632 5 Upper Riv er Rd., 2 2 8- 3646.

Louisville’s familiar Chick Inn moved into upgraded quarters after a fire several years ago, but regulars still call it the “new place.” The new place is just as comfy as the old (although non-smok ers beware), and the fried chicken is as good as it gets. $$ p f

4112 Outer Loop Louisville, KY 502.966.555 (on the corner of Preston Hwy and Outer Loop)

CHILI’S 421 S. Hurs tbourne Pkwy., 425-6800, 3623 Bardstown Rd., 301-8888; 11600 Ant onia W ay, 301-8181,972 0 V on Allmen Ct., 301-8880 . Mor e than just a place to chow down on baby back ribs, this national chain has a wide selection including fajitas, burgers, sandwiches and veggies. $ p CULVER’S 4630 S. Hurs tbourne Pk wy., 6 71-2 001.

When the tr ademark it em is called a “ButterBurger” and fr ozen cus tard t ops the dessert menu, you know you’re not in for diet fare.

Quality f ast f ood and friendly servic e mak e this chain a popular new East End arrival. $ f

3020 Bardstown Rd Louisville, KY 502.456.6680 (Gardiner Lane Shopping Center)

CUNNINGHAM’S 630 S. F ourth St., 58 7-052 6, 301 Upper Riv er Rd., 2 2 8- 362 5. Carrying on int o its third c entury in modern quart ers that captur e much of the nostalgia of its history, Cunningham’s vends fine fish sandwiches and pub grub in this downtown location and in a sec ond eat ery on Harrods Creek. $ f

A real local restaurant loved by real locals.

EVA MAE’S CREEKSIDE 6313 Upper River Rd., 2282882. If you haven’t been to Eva Mae’s for a while, forget e verything y ou think y ou kno w about this quaint riv erside spot: Owner/Chef Travis Hall has totally revamped the place, turning it into a

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destination dining r oom b y night, do wn-home lunch b y da y, with a w all of glas s and spr awling decks that overlook Harrods Creek. $$ p f e FOUNTAIN ROOM A T THE GAL T HOUSE 140 N. Fourth St., 589-5 2 00. T his c omfortable spac e features both buff et and menu dining. One pric e covers the fresh and hot buffet and salad bar. The menu oft en includes r egional and c ontemporary selections and daily chef specials. $ p GAVI’S RES TAURANT 2 2 2 S. Se venth St., 583-8183.

This f amily-owned eat ery has been ar ound f or decades. Standard casual American cuisine adds a few Rus sian-style specialties such as homemade borsht soup and beef Str oganoff. Daily lunch specials include lots of fresh vegetable dishes. $ HOOTERS 412 0 Dut chmans Ln., 895- 7100; 4 948 Dixie Hw y., 44 9-4194; 77 01 Pr eston Hw y., 9681606; 700 W. Riverside Dr., Jeff ersonville, IN, 2 189485; 94 1 Eas t Hw y. 131, Clarks ville, IN 2 84-9464.

Hooter’s may draw crowds with its long-s tanding reputation as a party sc ene, but you’ll stay for the food, an appetizing selection of soups, salads, seafood and more. Extra points for the company’s regular involvement in community causes. $ p f e INTERNATIONAL HOUSE OF P ANCAKES 1220 Veterans Pk wy., Clarks ville, IN. 2 85- 172 2 . F ans of this cult classic say the Metro has been without a handy IHOP f or f ar t oo long. R elief is her e with this f amiliar fr anchise’s r ecent opening in Southern Indiana. $ JARFI’S AT MELLWOOD 1860 Mellw ood Ave., 2 599888. Jeff Jarfi, hos t of Jarfi’ s Bis tro in the Kentucky C enter, hos ts this sec ond pr operty bearing his name in the Mellw ood Arts C enter.

Currently open only for lunch. $ f JOE’S OLDER THAN DIRT 8131 New Lagrange Rd., 42 6-2 074. Going s trong aft er man y y ears in this Lyndon location, Joe’ s has gr adually grown from a little house t o a spr awling c omplex of indoor and out door tables with liv e music man y evenings. Excellent barbecue is a specialty, and so is ice-cold beer. $ p e JUKE BO X Highlander Point Shopping C Floyds Knobs, IN, 923-1435. $ e

enter,

KAELIN’S RES TAURANT 1801 Ne wburg Rd., 4511801. This Highlands tradition has been around for almost 7 0 y ears, and their cheek y claim t o ha ve invented the cheeseburger actually seems to have some basis in f act. A spacious patio and r ecent renovations keep it up to date. $ f KAREM’S GRILL & PUB 9424 Nort ons C ommons Blvd., 327-5646. $ p f KARMA CAFÉ 112 6 Bar dstown Rd., 58 7-0062 .

Karma Café s tays open lat e and off ers dinerstyle courses—with a few Middle Eastern dishes for ac cent—in a casually arts y and inf ormal setting. $ f KERN’S KORNER 2 600 Bar dstown Rd., 456-9 72 6.

This f amily-owned ta vern has been a popular neighborhood pit s top sinc e 19 78. K ern’s off ers freshly made ham, chick en salad sandwiches and burgers, as w ell as a menu of soups, chilis and appetizers. $ p LEGENDS A T CAES ARS Caesars Indiana Casino , Elizabeth, IN, 888- 766-2 648. T he hot and c old short or ders ar e serv ed up with riv erboat hospitality, but in a Las Vegas atmosphere. A well stocked bar and a live stage welcome the best of regional and visiting national acts fr om Wednesday through Saturday nights. $$ p e LYNN’S PARADISE CAFÉ 984 Barret Ave., 583-3447.

One of the mos t popular places in town for brunch (and dinner t oo), Lynn’s Paradise Café lur es happy, hungry crowds with its hearty fare and funky decor.

Lynn’s sponsors the Stat e F air’s t ongue-in-cheek Ugliest Lamp C ontest, but ther e’s nothing ugly about the delicious and filling f ood. $$ p

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MAIN MENU 3306 Plaza Dr., New Albany, IN., 9486501. $$ MANHATTAN GRILL 200 S. 7th St., 561-0024. $ MASTERSON’S 1830 S. Third St., 636-2511. A fine, family L ouisville tr adition, this f amiliar T udor structure near the U of L campus is the s tate’s largest full-servic e r estaurant and the city’ s largest cat erer. Serving a lunch buff et Mon.-Fri., 10am-2pm only. Sunday Jazz Brunch. $ e MAX & ERMA ’S 2 901 S. Hurs tbourne Pk wy., 4 939662 , 39 2 1 Summit Plaza Dr ., 4 12 -52 2 9. Max & Erma’s, a national chain that started in Columbus, Ohio’s German Village in 1972, has grown to nearly 100 pr operties with a s teady f ormula of friendly service and casual-dining f are that r anges fr om specialty bur gers, soups and salads t o mor e weighty entrées. $$ p f MIMI’S CAFÉ 615 S. Hurs tbourne Pkwy., 42 6-6588.

This Calif ornia chain, a subsidiary of Bob E vans, goes urban and upscale wher e f armer Bob is folksy and c ountry. This new East End location is drawing crowds, building its r eputation on those familiar with the chain from other places. $$ THE MONKEY WRENCH 1025 Barret Ave., 582-2433.

A popular spot in the urban neighborhood wher e the Highlands meet Germant own, T he Monk ey Wrench off ers c omfort f ood with a s tylish spin, good music, a r elaxed ambienc e and w elcoming service. L ook f or an e xciting ne w r oof gar den coming in the spring. $ p e f NEIL’S PLACE 7611 IN 311, Sellersbur g, IN, 2 46-5456.

Best known for the specially seasoned fried chicken.

Neil’s also mak es excellent pastas, steaks, seafood, and salads. Homemade soups are created daily and coffee and desserts are always fresh. $$ p NORMA JEAN’S TRA CKSIDE 119 W . Main St., LaGrange, K Y, 2 2 2 -8044. T his Oldham C ounty favorite has evolved over the years, taking on a more upscale touches, but hos ts Norma and John Burle y consistently make it feel a lot like home. $$ p f O’CHARLEY’S (6 locations ) O’Charle y’s, Inc. c ould serve well as the pictur e in the dictionary ne xt to “American casual dining. ” T he Nash ville-based chain operates 2 06 pr operties in 16 s tates in the Southeast and Midwest, serving a straightforward steak-and-seafood menu with the mott o “Mainstream with an attitude.” $$ p OLD CHICA GO P ASTA & PIZ ZA 9010 T aylorsville Rd., 301- 7700. T his gr owing chain specializ es in both thick Chicago-s tyle and thin tr aditional pizza, plus an imposing lis t of 110 beers fr om around the world. $$ p f OTTO’S CAFÉ 500 S. F ourth St. (Seelbach Hilt on Hotel), 585-3201. Southern cooking with gourmet flair makes Otto’s an intriguing alt ernative to the Seelbach’s more upscale Oakroom. Check out the Southern Br eakfast Buff et and the Ex ecutive Express Lunch Buffet. $ PEPPERS BAR & GRILL 32 0 W . Jeff erson St., (Hyatt R egency) 58 7-3434. T he casual-dining facility in the Hy att R egency gets a mak eover and a full diner menu, open t o hotel guests and outside visitors as well. $$ p PUB L OUISVILLE Fourth Str eet Liv e 56 9-7782 .

Owned b y Cincinnati’ s T he T avern R estaurant Group, T he P ub f eatures “nouv eau pub cuisine” ranging from shepherd’s pie and fish and chips to more Continental dishes lik e fried calamari and a seared ahi tuna entrée. $$ p f RAFFERTY’S OF L OUISVILLE 988 Br eckenridge Ln., 897-3900. 3601 Springhurs t Blvd., 412-9000.

This full-service, casual dining establishment has a hearty menu. Specialties lik e R ed Alfr edo P asta showcase the gourmet offerings along with some of the lar gest and mos t cr eative salad combinations in town. $$ p

RED ROBIN GOURMET BURGERS 9870 Von Allmen Ct., 339-8616. The Robin has landed in the Brownsboro Crossings shopping center in the far East End. The highly r egarded Seattle-based chain off ers “gourmet bur gers” and trimmings. Despit e a full bar, it r eportedly attr acts hor des of happ y youngsters. $$ p f ROOSTER’S 7405 Pr eston Hw y., 964-9464. T his Columbus-based wings-and-brews chain conquered Ohio and is no w spr eading its fr anchise wings across the Eas tern U .S., including this ne w Louisville property in renovated quarters formerly occupied by a Ryan’s Steakhouse. $ p f RUBY TUESD AY 11701 Bluegr ass Pk wy., 2 6 7-7100, 1354 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN. 288-5010. If success demons trates quality , then Rub y Tuesday’s 600 int ernational pr operties and 30,000 emplo yees can s tand up with pride .

They’ve been upholding the slogan “ Awesome Food. Serious Salad Bar ” in L ouisville f or a generation. $$ p e THE RUDYARD KIPLING 42 2 W. Oak St., 6 36-1311.

The word “eclectic” fits this Old L ouisville eatery in jus t about e very dimension, fr om its funk y decor to its diverse bill of f are, not to mention an array of ent ertainment that bridges the generations fr om Gener ation X’ ers t o aging hippies. $ p f e SAM’S FOOD & SPIRIT S 3800 P ayne K ohler Rd., Clarksville, IN, 945-9757. Opened by a man named Sam some 16 y ears ago , this popular Southern Indiana institution feeds an army of happy diners.

You’ll find seaf ood, s teaks, pas tas, salads and desserts. The menu is extensive and child friendly. $$ p SHONEY’S 1890 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-6870, 811 Eastern Pkwy., 636-1043, 6511 Signatur e Dr., 9698904. F or nearly 50 y ears, Shone y’s r estaurants have been one of America’ s t op choic es f or f ast roadside dining, and happily they’ve kept up with the times. $ SKYLINE CHILI 12 66 Bar dstown Rd., 4 73-12 34, Plainview V illage C enter, 42 9-5 773, 40 2 4 Dutchman’s Ln., 7 2 1-0093, 6801 Dixie Hw y., 9 37402 0, 42 6 W . Mark et St., 56 1-9999 7 2 1-0093, 402 4 Dut chman’s Ln. L ouisville’s outpos ts of a famous Cincinnati chili r estaurant, these casual eateries off er the r egional f avorite (r eally it ’s Greek spaghetti sauc e, but k eep it quiet) and other fast-food dishes. $ SPORTSVILLE GRILL & BAR 4004 G ardiner Point Dr., 7 53-4413. A r emodeled v enue, a r evamped menu and a sports-bar theme hail the arriv al of Sportsville Grill & Bar at Holida y Inn Airport Eas t, replacing the old Duk e’s as the hot el’s dining room. $$ p STEAK N SHAKE 32 32 Bar dstown Rd., 456-2 6 70, 4913 Dixie Hwy., 448-4400, 4545 Outer Loop, 9663109, 2 717 S. Hurs tbourne Pk wy., 4 91-3397, 10 72 1 Fischer P ark Dr ., 32 6- 362 5, 980 E. Hw y. 131, Clarksville, IN., 2 85- 1154. One of the oldes t f astfood chains in the U .S., St eak N Shak e tr aces its ancestry to an Illinois roadside stand in 1934. It now boasts 400 outlets in 19 states but still sticks to the basics: quality s teak bur gers and hand-dipped shakes served, if you dine in, on real china. $ TGI FRID AY’S 9990 Linn Station Rd., 42 5-8185, Fourth Street Live, 585-3577. The original place to loosen the tie and c ongregate aft er the whis tle blows. T GIF carries on its party atmospher e tradition with American b istro dining and libations. The bill of fare ranges from baskets of appetiz ers on up t o contemporary entrées. $$ p f TOAST ON MARKET 736 E. Market St., 569-4099. A historic theater building (long a landmark junque shop) lends a funk y atmosphere to Toast, a local breakfast and lunch favorite. Chef George Morris’s

Discover Italian without leaving the country When it comes to classic Italian American food, Rocky’s Italian Grill does it right. Recipes passed down from generations. Homemade whole wheat pizza dough prepared daily. Garden fresh ingredients. Meatballs rolled every day by hand.

So whether you’re passionate about pizza or crazy about calzones, you’re sure to find your favorite Italian dish right here at Rocky’s.

Two convenient locations serving lunch and dinner for dine in or carry out.

EatAtRockys.com 715 W. Riverside Dr. (off I-65, on the River) Jeffersonville, IN 812.282.3844

10206 Westport Rd. (off I-265, across from The Home Depot) Louisville, KY 502.339.0808

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simple yet exciting menu adds a t ongue-in-cheek bistro spin to traditional diner fare. $ p f TOMMY LANCASTER RESTAURANT 1629 E. Market St., New Albany, IN, 945-2 389 . Value and v ariety are the s trong points of this c ommunity tradition and the f are goes fr om bur gers t o lobs ter tails.

Friday or Saturday evenings feature a buffet. $ p TRELLIS RESTAURANT 320 W. Jefferson St. (Hy att Regency), 58 7-3434. Dine on café f are in the Hyatt’s lofty atrium lobb y while y ou tak e advantage of an en vironment made f or peoplewatching. $$ p TUCKER’S 2 441 Stat e St., Ne w Alban y, IN, 9449999. Tucker’s gives you a little bit of e verything with a do wn-to-earth flair, off ering bur gers, ribs, steaks, a variety of appetizers and pastas. $ p TWIG & LEAF RES TAURANT 2 12 2 Bar dstown Rd., 451-8944. A popular Highlands hangout, the ”Twig” is probably at its best for breakfast—whether you’re enjoying it while v enturing out on a leisur ely Sunday morning or heading home v ery lat e on a Saturday night. It ’s a plac e t o gr ab a quick, filling bite, and doesn’t pretend to be more. $ THE GA SLIGHT INN RES TAURANT & T AP 10317 Watterson T rail,2 66- 7112 . T his fine old Jeffersontown f armhouse, f ormerly the home of the v ery British Sir Chur chill’s, r egains an American ac cent with an upscale casual menu and attractive bar. $$ p f THE VILLA BUFFET Caesars Indiana Casino , Elizabeth, IN, 888- 766-2 648. T he V illa Buff et offers an impr essive choic e of int ernational dishes, with some 150 selections. A seaf ood buffet is featured on Fridays. $$ WESTPORT GENERAL S TORE 7008 Hw y 5 2 4, Westport, KY., 222-4626. Only a half-hour ’s drive up the Ohio fr om Louisville, proprietors Will and Laura Cr awford w elcome visit ors t o this c ozy destination, offering a comfortably sophisticated bill of f are that w ould in no w ay be out of plac e in a fancy city bistro. $$ THE WING ZONE 905 Hess Ln., 636-2445. Another new wings emporium situated to catch the fancy of U of L f ans, W ing Z one e xcels with jumbo wings in 25 fla vors, including tr aditional Buffalostyle wings that range from Mild to Nuclear. $ f XAVIER’S 120 W. Broadway (Holiday Inn), 582-22 41.

Remodeled and r e-titled, the f ormer Bentle y’s restaurant in the Holida y Inn Do wntown off ers casual dining with a ne w name that e vokes memories of the historic old St. Xavier High School building that s tood on this sit e f or mor e than a century until 1963. $$ p

BARBARA LEE’S KIT CHEN 2 410 Br ownsboro Rd., 897-3967. Barbara Lee’s has been a lat e-night refuge for years. It’s a reliable standby for those in search of traditional blue-plate special lunch food. Honest grub, honestly priced, in a rootsy atmosphere. $ BIG MOMMA’S SOUL KIT CHEN 4532 W. Broadway, 772 -9580. Big Momma’ s ma y be the mos t hospitable place in the W est End t o get genuine soul f ood. A diff erent main c ourse is f eatured daily, all home-c ooked f ood, including such goodies as baked chicken, smothered pork chops, meat loaf, catfish … and fried chicken every day. $ CAROLYN’S 3822 Cane Run Rd., 776-9519. The steam table classic, the “meat ‘n’ tw o” gives you the roast chicken, green beans and mashed potatoes. Or pork chops, applesauce and limas. $ CHECK’S CAFÉ 1101 E. Burnett A ve., 637-9515. You can scent a whiff of L ouisville history coming off the old w alls of this quint essential Germant own saloon, along with years of frying grease. The bar food here is about as good as bar f ood gets, and 68 Fall 2007 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

that’s not bad. T he chili and the bean soup ar particularly recommended. $ p f e

e

THE CHICKEN HOUSE 7180 Hwy. 111, Sellersburg, IN., 2 46-9485. T he parking lot of this whit e fr ame building in rur al Indiana is pack ed on w eekend nights as f amilies from throughout the ar ea wait on delectable fried chick en. This is the v ery heart of American comfort food, including green beans, dumplings, and mashed potatoes. $$ CHICKEN KING 639 E. Br oadway, 589-5464. Spicy , crunchy and sizzling hot fried chick en is the primary draw on a short, aff ordable menu. $ COTTAGE CAFÉ 11609 Main St., Middlet own, 2 449497. This nostalgic old house in the c ountryside offers a tas te of K entucky-style c ookery in an array of lunch specials that r ange fr om homemade soups and sandwiches t o the traditional Louisville Hot Brown. $ COTTAGE INN 570 Eas tern Pk wy., 6 37-432 5. No w, this is down-home dining. Tucked away under big shade trees on Eas tern Parkway not f ar from the University of L ouisville’s Belknap Campus, Cottage Inn has been happily doling out excellent food for more than 70 years. $ DINNER IS DONE 3830 Ruckreigel Pkwy., 267-8686. $ D’NALLEY’S 970 S. Third St., 588-2003. Dirt-cheap blue-plate specials and hearty br eakfasts bring droves to the c ounters and booths of this clas sic greasy spoon. Satur day morning hours ar e sporadic, but for a quick plate of meat loaf, green beans, and mashed potat oes, D’Nalley’s is a har d place to beat. $ FORK IN THE ROAD RESTAURANT 4951 Cane Run Rd., 448-3903. $ FRONTIER DINER 72 99 Dixie Hw y., 2 71-3663. T he name “ diner” sa ys it all, and this friendly neighborhood spot Dixie High way deliv ers jus t what y ou’d e xpect in do wn-home c omfort f are.

The word on the s treet, though, is simple: Go f or the pancakes. They’re worth a special trip. $ GENNY’S DINER 2 2 2 3 Fr ankfort A ve., 89 3-092 3.

What’s the difference between Genny’s Diner and a saloon? You can take the kids to Genny’s. Better still, y ou can get a darn good meal at Genn y’s, provided that y ou set y our e xpectations f or hearty, filling and well-prepared diner food. $ p e GOLDEN CORRAL 4032 Taylorsville Rd., 485-0004, 8013 Pr eston Hw y., 966-4 970, 140 2 C edar St., 2 58-2 540. Buff et s tyle family dining—one pric e, all you can eat. Steaks are served beginning at 4 pm. $ GOOSE CREEK DINER 2923 Goose Creek Rd., 3398070. Goose Cr eek Diner off ers old-f ashioned comfort food, as the name “ diner” suggests, but transcendently adds a gourmet tas te t o the down-home eats. $ HAZELWOOD RESTAURANT 4106 Taylor Blvd., 3619104. Whether y ou lik e y our eggs o ver eas y, or your cheesebur gers w ell done , y ou’ll lik e the Hazelwood R estaurant. Standar d short or ders cooked with lots of character and a low price. $ HOMETOWN BUFFET 1700 Alliant Ave., 267-7044, 3710 Chamberlain Ln., 32 6-9 777, 664 1 Dixie Hw y., 9953320, 757 Hwy. 131, Clarksville, IN., 285-1893. This chain serves up nos talgic dishes, cas seroles, meats and desserts that allow you to set an all-American supper table with the all-you-can eat price tag. $ INDI’S RESTAURANT 1033 W. Broadway, 589-7985, 382 0 W. Mark et St., 77 8-5154, 4 901 Poplar L evel Rd., 964-5 749, 3353 F ern V alley Rd., 96 9-7993, 5009 S. T hird St., 36 3-2 535. Gr own fr om a tin y West End tak eout spot t o a mini-chain, Indi’ s vends a v ariety of aff ordable soul f ood and barbecue specialties to take out or eat in. $ JESSIE’S FAMILY RES TAURANT 9609 Dixie Hw y., 937-6332 . C ountry c ooking is Jes sie’s specialty , with hearty breakfast, lunch and dinner platters to fill the inner person. $

KINGS F AST FOOD 2 101 W . Br oadway, 77 2 -7138.

This tin y, c olorful W est End eat ery, open f or takeout only , off ers a v ast selection of filling, affordable urban f are that r anges fr om hot-andspicy chicken wings to rib tips and more. $ KING’S FRIED CHICKEN 1302 Dixie Hwy., 776-3013. $ LONGINO’S 1506 Berry Blvd., 361-9153. Don’t let the Italian family name fool you, this local fixture near Churchill Do wns f eatures do wn-home c ooking, mostly, r anging fr om fried gr een t omatoes t o hearty meat loaf to “The Manhattan.” $ MR. L OU’S C OUNTRY C OTTAGE RES TAURANT 5408 Valley Station Rd., 9 33-0806. Biscuits and red-eye gravy, country ham and grits show off Mr. Lou’s c ountry c ooking s tyle. R oast chick en is a dinner favorite, and so are homemade pies. $ O’DOLLYS 7800 Third St. Rd., 375-1690. Homestyle steam-table favorites are available from breakfast through dinner , not t o mention full bar servic e that mak es O’Dolly s a South west L ouisville destination. $ p f OLIVE’S ON FOURTH 570 S. F ourth St., 588-900 3.

No matt er what y ou’re hungry f or, chanc es ar e Olive’s has it—fr om s team-table f are t o pizza and calzones. C o-owners Linda Z eisloft and V icky Wright bring long back grounds at Sulliv an University to this comfortable downtown spot $ f TOLL BRIDGE INN 3300 North western Pk wy., 77 65505. A rich and c olorful his tory surr ounds the century-old fr ame building in Portland that no w houses the T oll Bridge Inn, a neighborhood favorite for simple, filling down-home fare. $ f WAGNER’S PHARMACY 3113 S. Fourth St., 375-3800.

A track-side institution that has as much history as the nearby Twin Spires of Churchill Downs. Soups, sandwiches, shak es, cherry C okes and an early bird “ trainer’s” br eakfast can be enjo yed all y ear round. Racing his tory on the w alls and serv ers who’ll call you “hon.” $ WEBB’S MARKET 944 E. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 5830318. An old-line neighborhood c orner gr ocery store houses a delicious secr et: At the back y ou’ll find a s team table loaded with e xceptional comfort food. Fried chicken is excellent, and don’t miss the chili. $

ANN’S BY THE RIVER 149 Spring St., Jeff ersonville, IN., 2 84-2 66 7. T his bus tling eat ery is caf eteria style dining done well. They serve up the standard steam table meat-and-three menu items as good as any. With the Ohio River a block away, it’s aptly named. $ CRAVINGS A LA CARTE 101 S. Fifth St. (National City Tower), 589-42 30 . T his thrifty deli off ers a variety of build- your-own sandwiches, a soupand-salad bar, and specialty bars f eaturing baked potatoes, and a monthly ethnic cr eation. $ HALL’S CAFETERIA 1301 St ory A ve., 583-043 7.

Hall’s Cafeteria has been doing a brisk business on the steam tables since 1955, attracting customers from Butchertown’s truck loading docks and from offices downtown. $ JANE’S CAFETERIA 4601 Jennings Ln., 454- 72 86.

This 40- year-old f amily-owned r estaurant kno ws how t o c ook f or f olks mis sing their home table .

Count on an att entive s taff and fr esh southern fare. $ JANIE’S CAFÉ 223 W. Fifth St., New Albany, IN, 9442 400. Owned b y T roy Lancas ter, gr andson of Tommy Lancas ter, f ormer o wner of the cat ering house that s till bears the f amily name , Janie’ s Café — located in the small house tha t was once home t o Pigasus BBQ — off ers do wn-home comfort fare. $

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JAY’S CAFETERIA 1812 W . Muhammad Ali Blv d., 583-2 534. Ja y’s modern, w ell-scrubbed building wouldn’t be out of plac e on Hurs tbourne Lane .

Hungry diners fr om all o ver t own find a w arm welcome at this popular West End location that ’s now run as a c ommunity-development pr ogram by two local churches. $ PICCADILLY CAFETERIA 2131 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 493-9900, 133 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 423-1733. An east end favorite for variety, Piccadilly offers roast beef, fried chicken, cod, steak and shrimp dinners, a gar dener’s lis t of v egetables and a f ew ethnic dishes for global measure. $

DERBY DINNER PLAYHOUSE 525 Marriott Dr., Clarksville, IN, 288-8281. The play’s the thing at Derby Dinner Playhouse, L ouisville’s long-running entry in the dinner-theater s weepstakes … but the e xpansive buffet dinner adds value to the mix. $$$$ e HOWL AT THE MOON Fourth Street Live, 562-9400.

What’ll they think of next? How about a nightclub that f eatures a “ dueling” piano bar with tw o pianos and a sing-along c oncept? You’ll find this 4,000-square-foot club at F ourth Str eet Liv e on the ground level. $ p e JOE HUBER F AMILY F ARM & RES TAURANT 2421 Scottsville Rd., Starlight IN, 9 23-5255. A pleasant 2 0-minute driv e fr om do wntown L ouisville, Huber’s has built a solid r eputation f or simple farm fare that’s well-made, fresh and good. Some of the pr oduce is gr own on the pr emises in season. $$ p f e LUCKY S TRIKE LANES / FEL T Fourth Str eet Liv e, 560-1400. An upscale bo wling alle y? A clas sy poolroom? Who knew! These twin concepts from Jillian’s founders Stephen and Gillian F oster light up Fourth Street Live with a stylish blend of ’50sstyle r etro and high-t ech modern, plus a menu that serves much more than mere bar food. $$ p f MY OLD KENTUCK Y DINNER TRAIN 602 N. T hird St., Bardstown, KY, (502) 348-7300. Talk about a nostalgia trip: My Old K entucky Dinner T rain offers a f our-course meal during a tw o-hour voyage along scenic Kentucky railroad tracks near Bardstown in vintage 1940s-er a dining cars.

Reservations ar e s trongly r ecommended. All aboard! $$$$ p STAR CRUISES 151 W. Riv erside Rd., Jeff ersonville, IN, 2 18- 1565. T he Ohio Riv er cruise is the bes t thing about this L ove Boat-s tyle y acht that makes nightly all- you-can-eat cruises up the river. $$$$ p f STUMLER RES TAURANT & ORCHARD 1092 4 St. John’s Rd., Starlight, IN, 9 23-3832. Fresh produce is available in the big shed a f ew steps away, and that fresh produce shows up on the tables here in mammoth portions. C ombine that with hones t fried chick en, big ham s teaks, r oast beef , and sandwiches, and you can’t go wrong. $$ f

ALEXANDER’S PIZ ZERIA 1611 Charles town-New Albany Rd., Jeffersonville, IN, 284-9000. $$ ANGILO’S PIZZA 1725 Berry Blvd., 368-1032. The local favorite is the s teak hoagie , dripping with pizza sauce, pickles and onions. Angilo’ s also off ers a wide selection of hot pizza pies and c old beer. $ ANGIO’S RES TAURANT 3731 Old Bar dstown Rd., 451-5454. T his small Buechel eat ery attr acts a friendly neighborhood crowd with hefty subs and quality pizzas, along with c old beer. $ ANNIE’S PIZZA 2520 Portland Ave., 776-6400, 4007 Cane Run Rd., 44 9-4444. Annie’ s has made-t oorder pizza and a v ariety of s tacked sandwiches

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such as the Big Daddy Str om with beef , Italian sausage, onions and banana peppers. $ ARNI’S PIZZA 1208 State St., New Albany, IN, 9451149, 3700 Paoli Pike, Floyds Knobs, IN, 923-9805.

A favorite Hoosier pizza and sandwich stop. Insist on getting the Deluxe. $ BEARNO’S PIZ ZA 131 W. Main St., 584- 7437, 2 900 Taylorsville Rd., 458-8605, 6101 Bardstown Rd., 2312 2 2 2 , 135-F Mark etplace Dr ., 95 7-5100, 10117 Taylorsville Rd., 267-2549, 1318 Bardstown Rd., 4564556, 8019 Preston Hwy., 968-6060, 9222 Westport Rd., 42 3- 12 2 4, 9 2 07 W . Hw y 42 , 2 2 8-9 388, 7 895 Dixie Hwy., 937-1234, 1923 S. Fourth St., 634-5155, 922 Chambers Blv d., Bar dstown, K Y, 348-4848, 300 2 Charlestown Cr ossing, Ne w Alban y, IN, 94 9-7914, 2784 Meijers Dr., Jeffersonville, IN, 282-3125, $ p BIG WILLIE’S PIZZA PUB 10301 Taylorsville Rd., 2610650. $ BRUNO’S PIZZA 5170 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 944-5050. $$ BRUNO’S PIZZERIA & PUB 1919 S. Preston, 634-1003. $$ p f CICI’S PIZZA 470 New Albany Plaza, Ne w Albany, IN., 944-4 942 , 309 3 Br eckinridge Ln., 45 2 -6700, 52 2 6 Dixie Hw y., 448-8895. Serious bar gainhunters will find Cici’ s culinary offer hard to beat.

This Dallas-based chain serv es up all the pizza you can eat for only $3.99. $ CLIFTON’S PIZ ZA 2 2 30 Fr ankfort Ave., 89 3-3730.

Clifton’s pizza appeals t o me with its adult s tyle, full of the bold fla vors of herbs and spic es and available with gr own-up t oppings lik e ancho vies and artichoke hearts. All this and funky, fun decor makes it one of m y favorite local pizzerias. $ f e DANNY MAC’S PASTA & PIZZA 1014 Clarks Ln., 6357994. $ DOMINO’S PIZZA (20 locations) $$

FAST BREAK PIZ ZA 682 5 C entral A ve., 2 43-1101.

Scott Hack’s new Italian spot, featuring pizza, subs and other Italian- American goodies in a spacious sports bar with a bask etball theme, is luring pizza lovers out to Crestwood for fine traditional pizzas plus such inno vative it ems as the pineappletopped Big Kahuna and, believe it or not, a baconcheeseburger pie. $ FAT DADDY’S PIZZA 10611 W. Manslick Rd., 363-7551. $ FAT JIMMY’S 9901C LaGr ange Rd., 339-8111, 2 712 Frankfort A ve., 891-4555; 2 2 08 Bar dstown Rd., 479-1040; 1382 9 English V illa Dr., 2 44-0840; 5 2 8 S. Fifth St., 589-8559 . This friendly neighborhood nook offers a cold mug of beer and a hot slic e of pizza, along with sub sandwiches, pas ta dishes and salads. The Lyndon spot lures a friendly biker crowd; the Cr escent Hill eat ery reflects its urban setting. $

HOMETOWN PIZZA 11804 Shelbyville Rd., 2 45-4555, La Gr ange Squar e Shopping C enter, 2 2 2 -4444.

Pasta dishes, hoagies, s tromboli and c old beer ar e available, and so is the one-of-a-kind Bac on Cheeseburger pizza. $$ IROQUOIS PIZZA 6614 Manslick Rd., 363-3211. $$ JOCKAMO’S PIZZA PUB 983 Goss Ave., 637-5406.

Old-timers are delighted to see Jock amo’s Pizza Pub back in business in Germantown, more than a decade after it depart ed Bardstown Road. Some of the original o wners ( except the lat e Da ve Wilder) ha ve r ecreated the s tyle, the mood and the live music, of the original. $$ e LITTLE CAES AR’S PIZ ZA 816 K enwood Dr ., 3665599, 9017 G alene Dr ., 2 6 7-8600, 562 2 Pr eston Hwy. 966-5800 , 6 714 Out er L oop, 966- 3111, 12 418 LaGrange Rd., 2 41-5445. T his Detr oit-based pizzeria chain los t mark et shar e in the ‘90s, but business analysts say the c ompany known f or its two-for-one “pizza pizza” deal has turned things around with a renewed commitment to quality and service. $$

FRESCO SOUTHWES T GRILL & PIZ ZA 2 047 L ytle St., 77 6-6077. L ocally o wned and oper ated but with development as a chain in its busines s plan, this comfortable, welcoming spot opened firs t in the city’ s r estaurant-underserved Portland neighborhood, off ering f ast-food s tyle and a choice of w ell-made burritos and other Me xicanstyle goodies and pizza, t oo. $ f

LOUISVILLE PIZZA CO. 3910 Ruckriegel Pkwy., 2671188. Also kno wn as Chubb y Ra y’s, this local pizzeria mak es good, fr esh pizzas and ItalianAmerican sandwiches. $ p f

FROLIO’S PIZ ZA 3799 Poplar L evel Rd., 456- 1000.

Just ar ound the c orner fr om the L ouisville Z oo, Frolio’s is a neighborhood pizz eria with a c ozy, dim Italian- American mood and an all- you-caneat pizza-and-salad lunch special. $$ f

LUIGI’S 702 W. Main St., 589-0005. If y ou think one pizza is pretty much like another, you may not have sampled Ne w Y ork City -style pizza, a tr eat that you’ll find on jus t about e very s treet c orner ther e, but only Luigi’s offers in its authentic form here. $

HERO’S NEW Y ORK PIZ ZA 10509 Watterson Trail, 2 61-9339. T his attr active v enue brings an authentic taste of New York to a historic building on Jeff ersontown’s T own Squar e. Her o’s sc ores with fans of crisp, thin-crust New York-style pizza, but don’t s top ther e: Many other Italian-s tyle goodies offer a taste of the Big Apple, too. $$ p f

MA ZERELLA S 949 S. Indiana A ve., Sellersburg, IN, 246-9517. Pleasant family-run-for-family-fun establishments. Pizza, pasta, salads and subs serv ed for lunch and dinner seven days a week. $ MR. GATTI’S 5600 S. T hird St., 36 3-2 2 11, 8594 Dixie Hwy., 935-0100, 3319 Bardstown Rd., 451-0540, 1108 Lyndon Ln., 339-8338, 2 2 47 S. Pr eston St., 6 356708, 42 00 Out er L oop, 964-09 2 0. T his A ustinbased chain w as one of the firs t national pizzerias t o r each L ouisville in the 19 70s, and quality ingredients—plus Gattiland playgrounds for the kids—ha ve made its crisp , thin-crus t pizzas a popular draw for nearly 30 years. $$ NEW ALBANIAN BREWING CO. 3312 Plaza Dr., New Albany, IN, 944-2 5 77. Touting “ the bes t pizza in southern Indiana” is quit e a boas t, but pizza only tells half of this tas ty story: NABC c ombines the fine pies of Sports time Pizza with the pub formerly kno wn as Rich O’ s, Publican R oger Baylor’s remarkable beer lis t, with more than 100 selections fr om ar ound the w orld — plus locally brewed cr aft beers — has w on int ernational awards. A pizza lik e the f amous “Herba vore” (spinach, slic ed t omatoes and r oasted garlic ) makes a sizzling tr eat, with a w orld-class beer t o wash it down. $ ORIGINAL IMPELLIZ ZERI’S 1381 Bar dstown Rd., 454-2 711. Impellizz eri’s pizza, a L ouisville ic on known and lo ved f or its mas sive pies f or a generation, has returned to the Highlands! Benn y Impellizzeri’s lat est v enture is alr eady attr acting happy cr owds t o the quart ers v acated b y Alameda. $$ p f PA PA MURPHY’S PIZ ZA 2 91 N. Hubbar ds Ln., 8956363, 5016 Mud Ln., 962- 7272, 9501 Taylorsville Rd., 2 66-7000, 16 1 Out er L oop, 36 1-3444; 460 7 Out er Loop, 964- 72 72 ; 12 535 Shelb yville Rd., 2 53-9191, 6756 Bar dstown Rd., 2 39-82 82 , 1305 V eterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 280-7272. $$ PAPA JOHN’S PIZ ZA (30 locations ) “P apa” John Schnatter got int o the pizza game as a Southern Indiana high-school student in 1984 and has built his business into a 3, 000-restaurant international chain on the basis of a simple f ormula: traditional pizza, made from quality ingredients in a straightforward style. $$

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PIZZA BY THE GUY 8109 Lagrange Rd., 426-4044.

This locally owned franchise is famous for its extra spicy, hand-t ossed dough. C ome and get it, literally, because ther e’s only a c ozy table f or three at the store and most folks pick up their pie or have it delivered. $ PIZZA HUT (15 locations) $$ PIZZA KING 382 5 Charles town Rd., Ne w Alban y IN, 945-4405, 1066 K ehoe Ln., Jeff ersonville, IN., 2 82 8286. The pizza at Pizza King is bak ed in a s turdy, clay stone oven and hand-tossed with thinner crust where the ingredients go all the way to the edge. $$ PIZZA PLACE 2931 Richland Ave., 458-9700. $ PIZZERIA UNO CHICA GO BAR & GRILL 6501 Bardstown Rd., 239-0079. This successful franchise serves up Chicago s tyle pizza—deep dish with more t oppings than crus t. Steaks, pas tas, sandwiches and bur gers c omplement the full service menu. $$ p

WICKS PIZ ZA PARLOR 975 Baxt er Ave., 458- 182 8, 2927 Goose Creek Rd., 327-9425, 12717 Shelbyville Rd., 213-9425, 10966 Dixie Hwy., 995-4333. Wick’s wins popularity with a w elcoming mix of good pizza, a quality beer lis t and a friendly neighborhood feel at all thr ee of its eat eries. The pies ar e straightforward, made with ample toppings. “The Big Wick” is a favorite. $ p WINGS TO GO 4324 Charlestown Rd., Ne w Albany, IN, 941-9464. $ WINDY CITY PIZ ZERIA 2 62 2 S. F ourth St., 6 363708. Stuffed Chicago-style and crispy thin-crust pizzas off er whiche ver option a pizza lo ver desires. $$ ZA’S PIZZA 1573 Bardstown Rd., 454-4544. $$

p

SICILIAN PIZ ZA & P ASTA 631 South 4th St., 5898686. Ready for takeout or eat-in, this do wntown storefront off ers good, s tandard (not Sicilian) pizza and other familiar Italian-American dishes. $

AMAZING GRA CE WHOLE FOOD S DELI 1133 Bardstown Rd., 485- 112 2 . If you think “v egan” means only r aw carrots, bean spr outs, seeds and roots, think again. No animals w ere harmed in the making of the tas ty alt ernative sandwiches and other dishes at this neat little deli attached t o a spiffy local organic-foods grocery. $

SLICE OF NEW Y ORK 9910 Linn Station Rd., 3393553. An ownership change has bes towed a new name on the former Fat Tony’s Pizza in Plainview, but the primary attr action r emains authentic, thin-crust New York City-style pizza. $$

ANOTHER PLACE SANDWICH SHOP 119 S. Seventh St., 589-4115. If you want to buy a car, go to a car dealer. To buy a carpet, patr onize a carpet shop .

And if you’ve got a sandwich on your to-do list, it makes sense to go to a sandwich shop. $

SNAPPY T OMATO (7 L ocations) A gr owing Midwestern pizza-deliv ery chain based in Northern K entucky, Snapp y Tomato mo ved int o the Louisville market this summer, taking o ver all the pr operties v acated in Pizza Magia’ s demise .

Pizzas are made with fresh ingredients (including an unusual cinnamon-apple pizza “pie”), and the chicken wings are impressive. $$

BACKYARD BURGER 1800 Priority Way, 240-9945.

The open flame at this c ounter-service diner provides the ne xt best thing t o a f amily cookout.

Sandwiches, fresh salads, fruit c obblers and oldfashioned hand-dipped milkshak es enhanc e the nostalgic theme. $ f

PRADO’S PIZZA 12935 Shelbyville Rd., 254-7220. $$

BANK SHOT BILLIARDS 403 E. Market St., 587-8260. $

BLIMPIE’S SUBS & S ALADS 2020 Brownsboro Rd., 899-7960, 3360 Hik es Ln., 451-5480 . Sublime subs—fast and fr esh. Blimpie’s is all that … and a bag of chips. $ CAT BO X DELI 500 W . Jeff erson St., 56 1-62 59. T he name of this c ozy downtown deli in the PNC Bank building might w arrant a double-tak e, but its f eline theme and kitty cart oons earn a smile . Open f or breakfast and lunch, it off ers a good selection of sandwiches, panini and wraps at budget prices. $ CHICAGO GYROS 2317 Brownsboro Rd., 895-3270. $ p CIANO’S 11904 Shelbyville Rd., 245-6997. $ DANISH EXPRES S PASTRIES 102 1/2 Cannons Ln., 895-2 863. Jus t a f ew tables turn this tak eout nook int o a sit-in br eakfast and lunch spot f or a handful of diners at a time . Full br eakfasts and light lunches ar e a vailable, but as the name implies, Danish pas tries ar e the specialty , and they’re fine. $ DEVINO’S 320 Main St., 56 9-3939. Right acr oss the street fr om L ouisville Slugger Field, this s tylish new deli adds another lunch and dinner option to the booming eas t-of-downtown z one.

Sandwiches ar e made fr om quality Boar ’s Head meats and cheeses cut on the pr emises, with dining inside and on the patio; pack age beer and wine is also available. $ f DINO’S DO WN T O L UNCH CAFÉ 2 39 S Fifth St. (Kentucky Home Life Building) 585-2874. $ DIZZY WHIZZ DRIVE-IN 217 W. St. Catherine St., 5833828. This neighborhood eat ery is an ins titution. It goes back more than 50 years and hasn’t changed much. It opens early and stays open late and offers good value for what you’d expect. $ f DMITRI’S DELI 521 S. T hird St., 584-8060 . A do wntown deli f avorite. Daily specials ar e surr ounded by an impr essive v ariety of sandwiches, soups and salads. $ f

SPINELLI’S PIZ ZERIA 614 Baxt er A ve., 568-5665.

This tin y s torefront in the city’ s night club z one offers a tas ty option f or the wide-e yed-late-atnight cr owd seeking good cheap eats; it ’s open until 5 a.m nightly fr om W ednesdays thr ough Saturdays. Bett er y et, it giv es L ouisville an authentic taste of Philadelphia specialties: Philly style pizza and real Philly cheese steaks. $ f TONY BOOMBOZZ 3334 Frankfort Ave., 896-9090, 1448 Bardstown Rd., 458-8889, 12613 Taylorsville Rd., 2 6 1-02 2 2 . Boombo zz wins pr aise f or exceptionally high quality pizza and other quick Italian-style f are. T ony’s pizzas include both traditional pies and gourmet-s tyle specialties that have won awards in national competition. $$ TONY BOOMBO ZZ PIZ ZA & VINO 2 813 N. Hurstbourne Pk wy., 394-0000 . Flagship of the Boombozz flotilla, this Eas t End es tablishment takes the local mini-chain’s winning pizza concept to a higher level. The “fast casual” facility features the award-winning Boombozz pizzas and paninis available at its other mos tly tak eout shops, but presents it f or dining in a s triking “urban loft ” tangerine and jade setting with Italian-made furniture t o add an upscale ac cent, plus w ellchosen wine and beer lis ts. $$ p TONY IMPELLIZ ZERI’S 108 V ieux Carr e Dr ., 42 90606. The original Impellizzeri’s Pizza is gone from the Highlands, but this decade-old s trip-center storefront near Hurstbourne houses brother Tony’s venture. If you like the massive, heavily loaded Impellizzeri pizza s tyle, it ’s a tr eat not t o be missed. $$$$ VITO’S PIZ ZERIA 32 13 Pr eston Hw y., 6 34-5400.

Reasonable people can diff er on the subject, but Vito’s f ans sa y the sizzling, o ven-charred pies at this downscale little plac e on Pr eston are among the best pizzas in town. $$

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DOOLEY’S BAGELCATESSEN 12903 Shelbyville Rd., 2 45-3354, 980 Br eckenridge Ln., 89 3-3354, 300 W. Chestnut St., 992-3156, 2415 Lime Kiln Ln., 4263354. This convenient deli specializes in bagels, as the name implies. Br eakfast means fr esh bagels with an array of cream cheese, sausage, eggs and coffee. At lunchtime lines f orm f or sandwiches— subs, panini, wraps, hot melts and c old cuts. $ THE FEED BAG DELI 133 Breckenridge Ln., 896-1899.

The grilled salmon bur ger is w orth the visit, as well as the Triple Crown wrap with three meats or a fresh veggie wrap. Soups, des serts t op off the lunch-only schedule. $ FRASCELLI’S NEW Y ORK DELI 62 47 Cr estwood Station, 2 43-9005. S mall and spartan, this tw oroom storefront just out from Pewee Valley offers a broad selection of Italian-s tyle deli sandwiches, plus a shorter list of home-style Italian hot dishes from lasagna to baked ziti. $ HONEYBAKED CAFÉ 4600 Shelb yville Rd., 8956001, 6423 Bardstown Rd., 239-9292, 757 Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 284-1799. $ HOTDOG HEAVEN 209 E. Main St., 222-2626. $

pf

JASON’S DELI 410 N. Hurs tbourne Pkwy., 412-4101.

Don’t look f or New York kosher-style deli at this Texas-based chain, but suburbanites are lining up at the ne w Hurs tbourne location f or o versize sandwiches, salads, wraps and more. $ f JERSEY MIKE’S SUBS AND S ALADS 10266 Shelbyville Rd., 2 44-1991, 10519 Fischer P ark Dr ., 42 5-102 5, 9156 T aylorsville Rd., 4 99-9830. Eas t Coast-style sub shop with local faves that includes cheese, ham, pr osciuttini, capic ola, salami, pepperoni and fixings. $ JIMMY JOHN’S SUB SHOP 4000 Shelb yville Rd., 894-3331, 3901 Dut chmans Ln., 894-9 393,415 W. Jefferson St., 625- 7101, 1321 S. Hurs tbourne Pkwy., 425-4515. This Illinois-based sandwich-shop chain offers a wide selection of standard-issue subs that benefit fr om fr esh quality ingr edients. W e’re particularly smitt en with the alt ernative br ead option, thick-sliced seven-grain. Try the “Gourmet Veggie Club” for a vegetarian treat. $ f JUANITA’S BURGER BOY 1450 S. Brook, 635-7410.

For a r eal slic e of L ouisville lif e, this w eathered greasy spoon at the corner of Brook and Burnett is the r eal thing. Neighborhood deniz ens drink coffee and cho w do wn on bur gers and br eakfast until the w ee hours (the joint is open 2 4 hours). If Louisville is home to a budding Charles Bukowski, ther e’s a good chanc e he’ s sitting at Juanita’s counter right no w, recovering from last night’s excesses. $ JUST FRESH BAKER Y CAFÉ & MARKET 1255 Bardstown Rd., 451-2 32 4. T he short-liv ed Baja Fresh occupied this ne w glass-walled building f or only a short time before leaving it vacant. Now the Just Fresh chain mo ves in, off ering fast-food fare billed as healthy and natural. $ f LITTLE CHEF 147 E. Mark et St., Ne w Alban y, IN, 949-7567. E very city needs a pos tage-stampsized spot that kno ws ho w t o fry potat oes and grill up a burger. In New Albany, the place is Little Chef. Biscuits and gr avy, fried eggs, and bur gers, in a joint that seems lik e a thr owback t o the heartland of America, circa 1940. $ f LONNIE’S BEST TASTE OF CHICAGO 121 St. Matthews Ave., 895-2 380 . T his appetizing oper ation off ers genuine Chicago hot dogs and a tas te of Chicago atmosphere for a price that won’t hurt your wallet.

Make Lonnie’s the plac e to go when y ou’ve got a hankering for Windy City fare. $ LOTSA P ASTA 3717 L exington Rd., 896-6 361. L otsa Pasta originated as an Italian specialty-food store, and it has been a local f avorite for more than 20 years. It now offers deli meats and cheeses and an eclectic int ernational selection of sausages and 72 Fall 2007 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

cheese. A lar ge sit-do wn section off ers a comfortable plac e t o enjo y c offee, pas try and sandwiches made to order in the deli. $ LUNCH TODAY 590 Missouri Ave., Jeffersonville, IN, 2 82 -1005. T his outfit pr epares its shar e of the soups, salads and sandwiches that the downtown workforce needs to re-energize. $ f MAIN EATERY 643 W. Main St., 589- 3354. Smack dab in the middle of the Main Str eet his toric district, this f ashionable deli lur es the sa vvy business midday crowd. $ f MARKET ON MARKET 445 E. Market St., 568-8810.

Sharing the ground floor of the renovated, historic Cobalt building with Primo , this upscale mark et brings gr ocery options t o the gr owing liv e-in population east of downtown, and an inviting deli for sandwiches and salads, t oo. $ MCALISTER’S DELI 10041 Forest Green Blvd., 4258900, 2721 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 671-2424, 2400 Lime Kiln Ln., 339-8544, 6508 Bar dstown Rd., 2 39-9997, 1305 V eterans Pk wy., Clarks ville, IN, 2 82 -3354, 12 911 Shelb yville Rd., 2 44-5133.

Emphasizing quality cus tomer servic e, this delicatessen ladles up such soups as gumbo and chicken tortilla along with cutting board favorites.

They have a special w ay with a tumbler of s weet iced tea and lemon. $ f MORRIS DELI & CA TERING 2 2 2 8 Taylorsville Rd., 458-1668. Man y locals s till kno w this small, popular Highlands deli as K arem Deeb’s aft er its longtime pr evious o wner. Mos tly f or tak eout—it packs in a f ew cr owded tables—it ’s kno wn f or high-quality, hand-made deli fare. $ NANCY’S BA GEL GROUND S 2 101 Fr ankfort A ve., 895-832 3. A friendly and casual neighborhood gathering spot. Off erings include soups, snacks, coffee drinks and bagels made on the premises to its own rather idiosyncratic formula. $ f NORD’S BROWN BAG PUB & DELI 2100 S. Preston St., 635-6747. This simple little neighborhood spot near the University of Louisville may not be much for atmosphere, but well-fashioned if simple diner fare vaults it into the realm of serious destinations for har d-core “f oodies,” with e xtra cr edit f or friendly, welcoming service. $ OLLIE’S TROLLEY 978 S. Third St., 583-5214. A little piece of f ast-food his tory r emains on an urban street c orner in Old L ouisville. It ’s one of the nation’s f ew surviving tr olleys of the L ouisvillebased chain that spr ead across the nation in the ‘70s. Ov ersize bur gers with a spicy , homemade flavor are just as good as ever. $ ORDERS UP CAFÉ & DELI 1981 Nelson Miller Pkwy., 245-5991. Quick and casual, Or ders Up offers the inviting atmosphere of dr opping in t o someone’s home f or lunch. Soups salads and fr eshly made sandwiches ar e unif ormly appetizing, and sandwiches are affordably priced at $5 or les s. $ PANERA BREAD C O. 5000 Shelb yville Rd., 8999992 , 62 2 1 Dut chmans Ln., 895-9991, 601 S. Hurstbourne Ln., 423-7343, 10451 Champion Farms Dr., 426-2134, 3131 Poplar Level Rd., 635-9164, 1040 Veterans Pk wy., Clarks ville, IN, 2 88-9400 . W arm breads finish-baked on the pr emises make a tas ty base f or a v ariety of sandwiches. Soups, salads, coffee drinks and a fr ee W iFi hotspot mak e Panera’s outlets popular gathering places. $ f PAUL’S FRUIT MARKET 3905 Chenoweth Sq., 8968918, 4 946 Br ownsboro Rd., 42 6-5059 , 12 119 Shelbyville Rd., 2 53-00 72 , 3704 Taylorsville Rd., 456-4750. One of L ouisville’s popular sour ces f or produce, cheeses, deli items, and the like. Deli sandwiches and salads are available (takeout only). $ PENN S TATION (14 L ocations). Billed as the Eas t Coast Sub Headquart ers, this sandwich kit chen does a brisk business here in the Louisville area. $

QUIZNO’S SUBS (17 locations ) T oasted br eads, a sandwich selection of meats, v eggies and fish ar e built to fight hunger. Fresh soups are available daily, from chili to chowder; so are salads and desserts. $ SCHLOTZSKY’S DELI 10531 Fischer P ark Dr ., 42 58447, 12915 Shelb yville Rd., 2 44-9069. The original Schlotzsky’s off ered jus t one kind of sandwich— “The Original”— when it opened its firs t eat ery in Austin, Texas, in 1971. Now this national chain vends a full selection of deli-style fare, with one significant improvement on the traditional deli: the servers are invariably polite. $ f SHADY LANE CAFÉ 4806 Brownsboro Center, 8935118. T wo Guys and a Grill is no mor e, but one assumes that the grill r emains on the pr emises of this suburban luncheon spot under its new name $ SOUPY’S 3019 Br eckenridge Ln., 451-532 5, 46 32 S. Hurstbourne Pk wy., 4 99-4404, 4590 Dixie Hwy, 449-2 000, 94 93 W estport Rd, 42 5-2 54 9, 2 9 30 Dr. W illiam W eathers Dr., 774-2 500. In the soup kettles y ou will find such clas sics as chees y potato, bean and ham, br occoli and cheese , chicken and dumplings and mor e. At the cutting board they’ll make you meat, cheese and v eggie sandwiches according to your custom design. $ THE S TARVING ARTIS T CAFÉ & DELI Lagrange Rd., 412-1599. $

8034 Ne w

STEVENS & STEVENS 1114 Bardstown Rd., 584-3354.

Sharing space with the popular Ditt o’s, Stevens & Stevens is primarily kno wn f or cat ering and takeout fare. They cook just as w ell if y ou choose to stay in, though, off ering appealing sandwiches and deli fare with a healthy twist. $ STRAWBERRY P ATCH DELI 11616 Shelb yville Rd., 2 54-1440. T his Middlet own deli off ers health y food with a dash of gourmet and a sprinkle of southern. $ SUB STATION II 3101 Fern Valley Rd., 964- 1075. The hardy No . 19 , a six -meat-and-cheese super sub , keeps the store buzzing. An arr ay of sandwiches, salad sides and des serts fill out an appetizing lunch menu. $ THE BODEGA 829 E. Market St., 569-4100. This new xciting F elice Plaza eas t of entry in the e downtown c ombines a small specialty -food market, wine-and-beer shop and deli under one compact r oof. Select fr om Blue Dog br eads, Boar’s Head meats and cheeses and other good things, and the y’ll build y our lunch t o dine in or enjoy on their sunny patio. $ f TUSCANO’S 4100 Preston Hwy., 364-9998. Sharing space with the Noble R omans pizzeria, Tuscano’s adds a br oader menu of subs, sandwiches and wraps to Noble Roman’s pizza fare. $ THEATER SQU ARE DELI 2 2 T heater Squar e, 5840364. T he name has changed (f ormerly Anthony’s), but the mis sion remains pretty much the same: Feed do wntown lunch cr owds quick and affordable deli fare and sandwiches. $ f W.W. C OUSINS RES TAURANT 900 Dupont Rd., 897-9684. T his locally o wned and oper ated eatery looks a lot lik e the national Fuddruck ers chain, but the local bo ys do a bett er job , with huge bur gers on magis terial home-bak ed buns and a Metropolitan Museum of toppings. $ WALL ST. DELI 225 Abraham Flexner Way at Jewish Hospital, 585-4202. Offering New York style with Kentucky flair, this bus y downtown deli will serv e in-house diners or tak e or ders f or deliv eries.

Authentic Nathan’s Hot Dogs are a specialty. $

BAKE’S BARBEQUE 542 7 V alley Station Rd., 9 350999. Bak e’s ribs ar e smok ed t o such t ender perfection that the meat slides off the bone . This is four-star barbecue , fully c ompetitive with the region’s best. $$

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BOOTLEG BARBECUE COMPANY 9704 Bardstown Rd., 2 39-2 72 2 , 7 508 Pr eston Hw y., 968-565 7.

Bootleg Barbecue off ers a t ouch of rus ticity and a good helping of c ountry hospitality, as it dishes out hearty portions of w ell pr epared and affordable smok ed meats and fixin’ s. It ’s one of the f ew plac es in L ouisville wher e y ou can get Western Kentucky-style mutton barbecue. $ f BRANDON’S BAR-B-QUE 9246 Westport Rd., 4266666, 10 301 T aylorsville Rd., 2 6 1-0650, 7 117 Shelbyville Rd., 7 2 2 -0616. F eaturing hick orysmoked T ennessee-style barbecue sandwiches and filling, aff ordable dinners, this long-time Eas t End f avorite has added tw o more neighborhood locations. $ CLARK BOY BAR-B-Q 672 8 Johnsont own Rd., 9 335577. If it’s a little off the beaten path, there’s nothing the matter with that. Clark Bo y’s reasonably priced Western K entucky-style barbecue is w ell w orth a special trip . Lik e man y mom ’n’ pop eat eries, it accepts cash only, no plastic. $ FAMOUS D AVE’S BAR-B-QUE 8605 Citadel W ay, 493-2 812 , 1360 V eterans Pk wy., Clarks ville, IN, 282-3283. This franchise chain oper ation may be based in the twin cities, but it looks like a Georgia gas station with its e xuberant, if tongue-in-cheek faux country decor. The important thing, though, is the f ood, and Da ve’s e xcels with genuine , hickory-smoked barbecue. $$ p f FINLEY’S HICK ORY SMOKED BAR-B-Q 1500 W .

Broadway, 581-0298. Rib tips are the specialty but you’ll find turk ey legs, ham, half-chick ens, pork chops and shr edded beef and pork —all f or dinners or sandwiches, and barbecued pig’ s feet for the BBQ purists. $ f FIRE FRESH BBQ 6435 Bardstown Rd., 2 39- 7800, 3065 Breckinridge Ln., 459-5201, 808 Lyndon Ln., 32 7-6304, 2 11 S. Fifth St., 5401171, 86 10 Dixie Hwy., 995- 7585, 12 2 16 Shelb yville Rd., 2 45-2 2 73.

Fire fighters, it is said, eat heartily and well. It’s no coincidence, then, that Fir eFresh Bar B Q pa ys homage to local fire departments in its restaurant’s decor. T he barbecue and c ountry fixin’ s s tand comparison to the best firehouse cuisine. $ f JIMBO’S BBQ 801 Kenwood Dr., 375-1888. This South End barbecue shack, an outpost of a popular spot in C orydon, IN, off ers a fine r ange of barbecue meats skillfully smok ed on the pr emises, with sauce served on the side as it should be . $ JUCY’S SMOKEHOUSE BAR-B-QUE 7626 Lagrange Rd., 2 41-582 9. Jucy’ s off ers e xceptionally good Texas-style barbecue fr om a little w ooden shack that looks jus t lik e a c ountry BBQ joint should.

Highly recommended. $$ f MARK’S FEED S TORE 1142 2 Shelb yville Rd., 2 440140, 1514 Bar dstown Rd., 458- 1570, 10 316 Dixie Hwy., 933-7707, 513 E. IN Hw y. 131, Clarks ville, IN, 285-1998. Named for its first restaurant’s location in a f ormer f eed s tore with that do wn-home country f eel, Mark’ s impr esses with high-quality hickory-smoked pork and chicken, and rich, silken South Car olina barbecue sauc e, the y ellow mustard-based variety. $$ f OLE HICKORY PIT BAR-B-QUE 6106 Shepherdsville Rd., 968-0585. Located in an attractive house not far fr om Gener al Electric ’s Applianc e P ark, this Louisville relative of a f amous Western Kentucky barbecue pit is well worth the trip. $ PICNICATERS BBQ & CATERING 514 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 584-7427. Located across from Louisville Gardens, this place puts the hot sauce, wings and chops right in the middle of a hungry busines s district. $ f PIG CITY BBQ 12 003 Shelb yville Rd., 2 44-3535.

Down-home and hones t, the name of this ne w barbecue eatery in a Middletown shopping center pretty much sa ys it all. Smok e ’em if y ou’ve got ’em—and they do with all cherry w ood. $$ f

PIT S TOP BAR-B-QUE 13303 Magis terial Dr., 2 536740. T his f amiliar old local br and, long a downtown fixtur e, no w off ers its smok y T exas barbecue in an Eas t End indus trial park jus t off the Gene Snyder Freeway and Old Henry Road. $ RITE W AY BAR-B-CUE HOUSE 1548 W . St. Catherine St., 584-9 385. Barbecue meis ter Kalvin Brown pr esides at this long-s tanding W est End favorite, kno wn f or its ribs and Southern-s tyle smoked meats since the end of World War II. $ f RUBBIE’S BAR-B-QUE & BREW 6905 Southside Dr., 367-0007. T his South End f amily kno ws ho w t o do BBQ. It ma y be off the beat en path f or some folks but here you’ll find the bounty of secret BBQ recipes. $ p f e SCOTTY’S RIBS AND MORE 14049 Shelbyville Rd., 2 44-6868. Ribs, pork, chick en a la cart e and dinners. The small East End venue moves a lot of pizzas and salads as well. $$ p SHANE’S RIB SHACK 12420 Lime Kiln Ln., 429-3907.

“Rib” may be its middle name, but you can also fill up on wings, chick en t enders, sandwiches on more at this gr owing A tlanta-based chain, n ow open in this former Tijuana Flats facility. $$ f SMOKEY BONES BBQ 2525 Hurstbourne Gem Ln., 491-7570. A pr operty of Orlando’ s Dar den f astfood chain, which also runs Oliv e G arden, R ed Lobster and Bahama Br eeze, this nois y St ony Brook-area eat ery c onveys mor e of a sports-bar than barbecue concept, but the ribs are fine. $$ p TONY ROMA’S 150 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 327-8500.

From the t omato tang t o a smok y Blue Ridge savor, R oma’s adv ertises its ribs as the bes t dressed in t own. Burgers, chicken and s teaks are available as w ell, but w e r ecommend the r acks and baby backs of pork and beef . $$$ p VINCE S TATEN’S OLD TIME BARBEQUE 13306 W. US 42 , 2 2 8-742 7. A uthor V ince Stat en, who literally wr ote the book on barbecue (Real Barbecue), has moved on, but his name r emains on this neighborhood joint out the r oad in Oldham County. $ WOOD CITY GRILL 612 S. Fifth St., 2 90-0518. T he lunchtime cr owds that flock t o W ood City find more than jus t another barbecue pit. Chef Allen Sims c omes fr om a long line of barbecue c ooks, and he boas ts e xperience in the kit chen at Vincenzo’s. A wide variety of meats — even goat — comes with exotic sauces that span the globe . $

19TH GREEN PUB & GRILL 1740 W illiamsburg Dr., Jeffersonville IN, (812) 284-9088. $ p f BEEF O’BRAD Y’S 2 39 Blank enbaker Pk wy., 2 542 32 2 , 562 8 Bar dstown Rd., 2 39-2 2 2 6, 10000 Brownsboro Rd., 32 7-8881, 3101 S. Sec ond St., 637-3737, 105 LaF ollette, 9 2 3-1316. If y ou think your basic sports pub is only suitable f or guy s guzzling beer, tak e another look: Beef O’Br ady’s puts the “family” in “family sports pub,” offering a wholesome environment. $ BENTLEY’S SPORT S BAR & GRILLE 2 800 Crums Ln., 778-8886. The familiar range of bar and grill fare and libations will mak e the neighbors feel at home in this new West End watering hole. $ p BIG D AVE’S OUTPOS T 1801 Bar dstown Rd., 4599142. This casual, laid-back neighborhood saloon is a popular gathering plac e f or its Highlands neighbors, earning fans for libations, comfort and food that’s a notch above mere pub grub. $ p f e BLUE MULE SPORT S CAFÉ 10301 Taylorsville Rd., 240-0051. Longtime buddies John O’C onnor and Jim “Mule” Riley talked for years about opening a restaurant and sports bar . Riley died bef ore their dream came true . But no w O’C onnor pr oudly presides o ver this 90-seat casual Jeff ersontown www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Fall 2007 73

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eatery and w atering hole, and he has named it in affectionate memory of his friend “Mule .” $ p e BROWNIE’S “THE SHED” GRILLE & BAR 237 Whittington Pk wy., 32 6-9830 . Restaurant o wner and namesak e K eith Br own used t o hos t neighborhood gatherings in a shed at his home .

Now he brings the same sociable c oncept to his pub and eatery. Louisville’s official home for Cincy Bengals fans, Brownie’s may be the closes t thing Hurstbourne has to a Germantown neighborhood saloon. $ p BUFFALO WILD WINGS (B W-3’S) 6801 Dixie Hwy., 935-1997, 3900 Shelb yville Rd., 899- 7732 , 9134 Taylorsville Rd., 499-2356, 3584 Springhurst Blvd., 394-9596, 12 901 Shelb yville Rd., 2 54-9464, 1055 Bardstown Rd., 454- 3635. As much a sports bar as a restaurant, this national franchise chain offers tasty snack -type f are, including the chain’ s trademark Buffalo chicken wings. $$ p f

GERSTLE’S PLACE 3801 Frankfort Ave., 899-3609.

A popular St. Matthe ws neighborhood ta vern since 1924. Although dining is secondary to booze and sports here, the food goes well beyond mere pub grub. $ p e GRANVILLE INN 1601 S. T hird St., 6 35-6475. A longtime gathering plac e f or U of L s tudents, faculty and f ans, this s turdy r edbrick ta vern jus t north of the univ ersity campus off ers a good variety of bar munchies, sandwiches and simple grilled f are plus pizza. It ’s perhaps bes t kno wn, though, for the signatur e Granville Burger, widely reputed as one of the bes t burgers in town. $ GREAT AMERICAN GRILL 2 735 Critt enden Dr .

(Hilton), 6 37-2 42 4. L ocated in the L ouisville International Airport Hilt on. Salads, bur gers, pastas and sandwiches are available for the casual diner; main entrées include New York strip, filet of salmon and more. $ p f

CHAMPIONS SPORT S RES TAURANT 2 80 W .

Jefferson St. (L ouisville Marriott), 6 71-42 46.

Another popular option at the s triking ne w downtown Marriott, Champions pr ovides a fun, casual dining alt ernative with a K entucky sports theme—and a gallery of big-scr een televisions to keep the sports action flo wing as fr eely as the libations and upscale pub grub . $$ p f CHATTER’S BAR & GRILL Pkwy., 961-9700. $$ p f

MAGGIE’S SPORTS BAR & GRILLE10300 Taylorsville Rd., 267-9604. Just off Jeff ersontown’s old Town Square, this new spot offers casual diner-style fare in a sports bar setting. $ f MICHAEL MURPHY’S RES TAURANT 701 S. Firs t St., 587-0013. This full servic e restaurant and bar has accommodated hardy thirs ts and appetit es f or a couple of gener ations. Despit e the Irish appeal, the food is American and lots of it. $ p 2 630 Chamberlain

SPORTS PAGE GRILL 3701 Hopewell Rd., 263-7130 $ p e STEINERT’S GRILL & PUB 2 2 39 Charles town Rd., New Albany IN, 945-8827. This is a cross between an old f ashioned neighborhood ta vern (with an aged and cozy ambience) and a trendy sports bar.

Hearty burgers, rich soups, salads, and a full bar make this a hidden gem. $ p e SULLY’S SALOON Fourth Street Live, 585-4100. $$ p f TAILGATERS SPORT S BAR & GRILL 2 787 S. Flo yd St., 6 37-52 41. Billed as a pr emier des tination f or good food and lots of fun, this casual spot ne xt to Papa John’ s Stadium f eatures clas sic American favorites and seaf ood specialties, plus a full bar , TVs and an expansive game room. $ p f e

DIAMOND PUB & BILLIARD S 3814 Fr ankfort Ave., 895-7513. $ p f DUTCH’S TAVERN 3922 Shelbyville Rd., 895-9004.

Do y ou lik e guitars with y our grub ? A popular half-way-home hangout f or decades in the heart of St. Matthe ws, this no-frills but all charm pub serves up a hardy plate lunch by day and amps up the action with music by night. $ p e

THE BA CK DOOR 2 787 S. Flo yd St., 6 37-52 41.

Longtime o wners John Dant and Mik e E wing ar e known for running one of the city’s friendliest pubs at this Mid-City Mall saloon. Limit ed bar f are, but don’t miss the chicken wings. $ p f

FLABBY’S SCHNITZELBURG 1101 Lydia St., 637-9136.

Family-owned sinc e 195 2 , Flabb y’s is a quintessential Germantown saloon. It’s also one of the city’ s t op des tinations f or ine xpensive do wnhome eats, fr om authentic German dishes t o fantastic fried chicken on weekends. $

74 Fall 2007 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

THE LIGHTHOUSE 2 02 Main St., Jeff ersonville, IN, 2 83-0077. T his lighthouse has been a beac on of casual, home c ooking and ta vern en vironment f or years. Daily specials, appetiz ers, chick en and fish baskets, salads and desserts round out the menu. $

SAINT’S 131 Breckinridge Ln., 891-8883. Almos t like two r estaurants in one , Saints f eatures both a small, intimat e, candle-light ed r oom and a lar ger, happily bois terous main r oom with the look and feel of a sports bar . T he arriv al of Chef Alan Rosenberg holds pr omise f or a significant menu upgrade. $$ p e

DELTA RESTAURANT 434 W. Market St., 584-0860.

It’s not quit e as his toric as Gideon Shry ock’s Jefferson C ounty C ourthouse ar ound the c orner, but this popular bar and short-or der spot seems as if it has been a hangout f or la wyers and the courthouse crowd for just about as long as there’s been a Courthouse. $ p

FOX & HOUND 302 Bullitt Ln., 394-7620. A “British pub” c oncept oper ated b y a W ichita, K ansasbased chain, F ox & Hound’ s fr ee-standing property near Oxmoor C enter f eatures a “midcasual” menu with bur gers, pizza, chick en and pot r oast, in a lar ge v enue with plenty billiar ds tables and an ample supply of lar ge-screen televisions. $$ p f

JP’S PUB & GRUB 5610 Outer Loop, 966-8223. $ p f

NV TAVERN 12 02 Bardstown Rd., 45 2 -6101. The little Cribstone Pub has closed, but this little Highlands eatery was too lovable to stay dark for long. Look for libations and appetizing bar fare here. $ p f e

CONNOR’S PLACE 207 E. Main St., Ne w Albany, IN, 944-02 07. Da ve Himmel, onc e a partner in the popular Bistro New Albany, now has his own place in the Southern Indiana city’ s growing restaurant scene. Connor’s Place offers casual dining with a sports bar f eel in nic ely r enovated spac e in the historic Maytag Building. $ p f

FOUR KINGS CAFÉ 4642 Jennings Ln., 968-2 9 30.

Steam-table servic e f eaturing spaghetti and meatballs, lasagna and chick en attr act a hungry lunch cr owd at this casual spot, and brunch specialties are just as popular. $ p

JIMMY ON THE RIVER 100 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville, IN, 282-2500. $ p f

NEW DIRECTION BAR & GRILL Ln., 243-8429. $ p e

2 745 S. Hurs tbourne

FLANAGAN’S ALE HOUSE 934 Baxt er A ve., 5853700. Gourmet pizzas, hoagies, and an enormous beer selection dr aw Highlands f olks t o this c ozy neighborhood pub . F or a lat e night pizza (the kitchen’s open until 2 a.m.), it ’s one of the bes t options in the city. $$ p

JIMMY AND RICHIE’S 813 Lyndon Ln., 423-7774. $$ p f

VIC’S CAFÉ E. Market St., New Albany, IN, 944-4338. $ WOODY’S PUB & GRILL 12 2 05 Westport Rd., 32 78002 . F ormer home of a Hoops pub , W oody’s carries on the sports bar c oncept in this East End venue near the Ford Kentucky Truck plant. $ p f

HITCHING POST INN 7314 Fegenbush Ln., 239-4724.

In addition t o its full bar and beer gar den, and lively conversation, the Hitching Post Inn offers an array of pub grub , including bur gers, chick en tenders, and sandwiches. $ p HOOPS GRILL AND SPORT S BAR 6733 Strawberry Ln., 375-4667. The name sa ys it all: sports, casual dining and good things t o drink all find their natural meeting plac e at this friendly neighborhood spot wher e hot wings and hoops reign supreme. $ p f JAKE’S & MR. G’S 10432 Shelbyville Rd., 244-0165 $

p

JERSEY’S CAFÉ 1515 Lynch Ln., Clarks ville, IN, 2 882 100. Quality , aff ordable f are that goes w ell beyond pub grub t o include an a wesome smokehouse burger and barbecued ribs so tender, they say, that you can just tap the end of the bone on your plate, and the meat falls off. $ p e

ZAZOO’S 102 Bauer Ave., 894-8030. If you’re looking for casual dining, ZaZ oo’s offers a mighty appealing option with its laid-back and w elcoming neighborhood bar feeling. The fare is simple but well prepared, and goes a bit beyond pub grub. $ p f e

BLUEGRASS BREWING COMPANY 3929 Shelbyville Rd., 899- 7070, 6 36 E. Main St., 584-2 739, 2 Theater Squar e, 568-2 2 2 4. A mus t-stop destination f or beer lo vers on the national artisanal-brew tr ail, but it ’s mor e than jus t a brewpub. BBC’ s management giv es equally serious att ention t o both liquid and solid f are, making this a gr eat plac e t o s top in f or both dinner and a beer. $ p f e BROWNING’S BREWERY 401 E. Main St. (Slugger Field), 515-017 4. Making beautiful use of the historic r ed-brick building that houses Slugger

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Field, Br owning’s off ers br ewpub beers plus appetizing f are that e xtends w ell be yond mer e pub grub. $$ p f e CUMBERLAND BREW S 1576 Bar dstown Rd., 458872 7. Giving ne w meaning t o the t erm “microbrewery,” Cumberland Br ews ma y be one of the smalles t eat eries in t own. It ’s usually packed, earning its crowds the old-fashioned way by providing very good food, friendly service, and high-quality hand-crafted artisan beers. $ f e NEW ALBANIAN BREWING CO. 3312 Plaza Dr., New Albany, IN, 944-2577. (see review under Pizza)

the University of L ouisville’s Belknap Campus. It ’s generally packed with s tudents, professors, and a squadron of campus polic e so lar ge that one wonders who’s watching the campus. $ CHINA KING 3830 Ruckriegel Pkwy., 240-0500. $ CHINA SEA BUFFET 0838. $

12 689 Shelb yville Rd., 2

45-

CHINESE CHEF 2619 S. Fourth St., 634-0979. $ CHINESE EXPRESS 3228 Crums Ln., 448-1360. $ CHONG GARDEN 10341 Dixie Hwy., 935-1628. $ CHOPSTICKS 416 E. Broadway, 589-9145. $ CHOPSTICKS HOUSE 2112 W. Broadway, 772-3231. $

CHEZ SENEBA AFRICAN RESTAURANT 4218 Bishops Ln., 4 73-8959. A dd y et another int eresting ethnic cuisine to Louisville’s increasingly international dining scene. Friendly f olks serv e gener ous portions of filling, spicy Senegalese cuisine fr om West Africa in this tiny (three-table) eatery. $ QUEEN OF SHEBA ETHIOPIAN 3315 Bardstown Rd., 459-6301. T he r egion’s only fully authentic Ethiopian restaurant, offering a wide selection of intriguing Ethiopian dishes, including a v ariety of vegetarian selections as well as the traditional beef and chicken specialities. Ethiopian fare is made for sharing and eating with the fingers, but the y’ll gladly make forks available for the finicky. $

CHUNG KING CHINESE AMERICAN RES TAURANT 110 E. Market St., 584-8880. $ CITY WOK 526 W. Main St., 583-7238. $ CRYSTAL CHINESE 3901 W. Market St., 776-9702. $ DOUBLE DRA GON 12 55 Gos s A ve., 6 35-5656, 318 Wallace Ave., 894-888 7. A s tandout among f astfood shopping-c enter Chinese eat eries, Double Dragon hits on all cylinders, turning out c onsistently well-prepared and flavorful fare. $ DOUBLE DRAGON II 12480 LaGrange Rd., 241-7766, 9901 LaGr ange Rd., 32 6-0099 , 6832 Bar dstown Rd., 231-3973, 3179 S. Second St., 367-6668. $ DOUBLE DRAGON 8 231 S. Fifth St., 58 7-8686. $ DOUBLE DRAGON 9 9501 Taylorsville Rd., 267-5353. $

#1 A SIAN BUFFET 12 50 Bar dstown Rd., 451-60 33.

Not jus t another in the her d of all- you-can-eat Chinese buffets, this r ecent entry in the Mid-City Mall seats 350 , boasts a priv ate party r oom, and, says owner Steven Yuan, is the first between-thecoasts outpost of the original #1 buffet in NYC. $$ 8 CHINA BUFFET 1850 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 493-3884. $ A TASTE OF CHINA 1167 S. Fourth St., 585-5582. $ ASIAN BUFFET 3813 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 945-1888, 1305 V eterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 2 85-8888, 3646 Mall Rd., 4 79-9989. C ompetent cookery and car eful management that ensur es buffet off erings s tay fr esh and hot mak es these buffets a good choic e among the growing crowd of all-you-can-eat Asian spots. $ p AUGUST MOON 2 2 69 L exington Rd., 456-656 9.

August Moon’ s secr et ingr edient is the culinary oversight of Chef Peng L ooi, better known as the force behind Asiatique. Housed in a soaring, open space with a Z en mas ter’s s tyle. C onsistent commitment in the kit chen and fr om the s taff makes it a t op spot f or Asian f are. A lo vely patio at the r ear aff ords an alfr esco dining e xperience overlooking shady Beargrass Creek. $$$ p f BAMBOO HOUSE 4036 Poplar L evel Rd., 451- 3113.

An old-timer among local Chinese restaurants, this Southeastern L ouisville spot ma y not off er the trendiest Asian f are, but it ’s a r eliable sour ce f or the familiar Cantonese-American standards. $

DOUBLE DRAGON BUFFET 2 33 Whittington Pkwy., 339-8897. A sizable buff et in a chic Eas t End shopping s trip, off ers a good r ange of Chinese treats on its all- you-can-eat buffet. The fare seems prepared with attention and care. $ DRAGON GARDEN 2120 Bardstown Rd., 459-3311. $ DYNASTY BUFFET 2 400 Lime Kiln Ln., 339-8868.

The c ontinuing pr oliferation of look alik e, tas te alike, all-you-can-eat Chinese buffets never fails to amaze me. But I’m happ y to report that Dynas ty Buffet ranks well above the median. $$ EASTERN HOUSE 5372 Dixie Hw y., 568-2 688.

Serving Chinese and American f ood fr om the menu or the buffet. $ EGGROLL MACHINE 1216 Bardstown Rd., 459-1259.

A Highlands s taple for good r eason. This portion of the Mimosa Café does a brisk busines s. T he Sesame Chicken is one of our f avorites. $$ p EMPEROR OF CHINA 2210 Holiday Manor Shopping Center, 42 6- 1717. One of L ouisville’s f anciest and most not eworthy Chinese r estaurants, the Emperor’s quart ers ar e s tylishly s trewn acr oss multiple le vels of a f ormer suburban mo vie theater. Outstanding. $$ p EMPRESS OF CHINA 2249 Hikes Ln., 451-2500. Older sister to The Emperor of China, the Empr ess was one of L ouisville’s firs t serious, authentic upscale Cantonese restaurants, and its f are still stands up to fancy spots in New York’s Chinatown. $$ p FIRST WOK 3967 Seventh St. Rd., 448-0588. $

CHINA 1 123 Breckinridge Ln., 897-6511. $

GOLDEN BUDDHA 8000 Preston Hwy., 968-7700. $

CHINA BUFFET 706 E. Hwy 131, Clarksville, IN, 2888989. Chinese buffets are ubiquitous, but this one is squarely in the upper range. Regularly refreshed steam tables, att entively fried ric e, and pr operly spicy General Tso’s Chicken raise it above the runof-the-mill places typical of the genre. $

GOLDEN PALACE BUFFET 161 Outer Loop, 368-2868. $

CHINA CASTLE 7420 Third Street Rd., 367-4272. $ CHINA CITY BUFFET 9228 Westport Rd., 423-1788. $ CHINA GARDEN 7309 Pr eston Hw y., 968-46 72 . A busy r estaurant with the double pleasur e of Chinese and American menu it ems. $ CHINA INN 1925 S. Fourth St., 636-2020. It’s not the posh, private Faculty Club, but this little Asian spot may be one of the mos t popular eat eries around

HAPPY DRA GON 2 600 W . Br oadway, 77 8-2 573.

Catering to office and r esidential customers, this Chinese r estaurant has serv ed the W est Broadway community for many years. $ f HONG K ONG CHINESE RES TAURANT 345 Ne w Albany Plaza, New Albany, IN., 945-1818. $ HONG K ONG F AST FOOD 5312 S. T hird St., 36 7882 8. One of the man y int ernational eat eries in Iroquois Manor, this fast-food Chinese spot offers Cantonese s tandards hot and f ast and inexpensively. Check the daily specials f or an occasional intriguing item. $ HUNAN WOK 231-0393, 6445 Bardstown Rd. $ JADE GARDEN BUFFET 1971 Brownsboro Rd., 893082 2 . Y et another lar ge, shin y all- you-can-eat Chinese buffet, this entry c onverts the spac e last occupied by Babylon into a temple of Asian eats, featuring mos tly Chinese dishes with a f ew American-style items and sushi rolls. $ JADE PALACE 1109 Herr Ln., 42 5-98 78. When I’v e got a hank ering f or brunch, I choose Chinese .

Jade Palace is a decent place for Chinese food at any time , but don’t mis s it at mid-da y Frida y through Monday, when it off ers the metr o area’s only dim sum (Chinese brunch) menu. $$ p JASMINE 1382 3 English V illa Dr ., 2 44-8896. A charming Asian eat ery, wher e y ou can enjo y familiar Chinese-American plates or indulge y our more adv enturous side with a selection of mor e unusual authentic dishes fr om the “Chinese Menu,” available on request. $ f JUMBO BUFFET 2 731 S. Hurs tbourne Pk wy., 4 950028. Housed in a good-looking dining room, high on Chinatown-style glitz and glitt er, Jumbo off ers a s tandard all- you-can-eat Chinese buff et, with a larger-than-average selection of American dishes for those who want something less exotic. $$ KING BUFFET 1801 Priority Way, 266-8886. Another in the gr owing niche of glitzy Chinese chr omeand-plastic buffets, King Buff et offers a s tandard selection of all-you-can-eat dishes. $ KING WOK 291 N. Hubbards Ln., 899-7188. Another of the city’s many tiny shopping-center fast-food Chinese eateries, King W ok offers all the f amiliar standards plus a small lunch buff et. $ LIANG’S CAFÉ 3571 Springhurs t Blv d., 42 5-0188.

Genial host Roland Wong keeps Liang’s in the top tier of local Chinese dining r ooms with both authentic Chinese cuisine and fine ChineseAmerican dishes in this airy, stylish dining room. $ LING LING 10476 Shelbyville Rd., 245-2100. Modern and efficient in its Eas t End shopping c enter location, Ling Ling is a cut abo ve f ast-food Chinese; bett er y et, it adds a f ew V ietnamese dishes to the bill of f are. $ LIU’S GARDEN 11517 Shelb yville Rd., 2 44-9898.

Small but charming, with whit e tablecloths and soft Chinese music, f amily-run Liu’ s gains our approval with fr esh, c ompetent c ookery and courteous, friendly service that makes you feel like you’re visiting a Chinese family at their home. $$

GOLDEN S TAR CHINESE RES TAURANT 368-1833, 3458 Taylor Blvd. $

LUCKY HOUSE BUFFET 4030 Taylorsville Rd., 4591188. A fr esh idea on Asian dining, this gener ous buffet serves the menu classics from China as well as some Japanese and American entrées. $$

GOLDEN WALL 3201 Fern Valley Rd., 968-9717. $

NEW CHINA 231 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 254-9299. $

GREAT WALL 2206 Brownsboro Rd., 891-8881. T his Clifton r estaurant r anks high up in the f ast-food Chinese pack. Offering steaming-hot, competently prepared and flavorful dishes. $

ONION RESTAURANT TEA HOUSE 4211 Charlestown Rd., Ne w Alban y, IN, 981-0188. Mas terful Chinese and Japanese cuisine (including magnific ent hotpots, donburi dishes, and w ooden-bucket steamed rice) set this airy restaurant apart from the horde of other Asian spots. $$

GREAT W OK 2 502 Pr eston Hw y., 6 34-1918. Jus t about every shopping c enter in t own has a f astfood Chinese spot, but this one s tands out, generating a buzz of w ord-of-mouth publicity about its well-crafted Chinese dishes at a bargainbasement price. $

ORIENTAL HOUSE 4302 Shelb yville Rd., 89 7-1017.

One of the oldes t continuously operated Chinese restaurants in Louisville, this St. Matthews landmark moves up a not ch under ne w o wners, f eaturing www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Fall 2007 75

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both tr aditional Chinese- American and no w, authentic Cantonese. $ p

cluster of busines ses in the Nort village center. $$ f

on C ommons

ORIENTAL STAR 4212 Bishop Ln., 452-9898. A longtime area favorite in this hea vy traffic lunch ar ea.

This es tablishment is quit e good with L o Mein Noodles, and Sweet and Sour Chicken. $

WOK EXPRES S 2 34 W. Br oadway, 583-8988. T his corner spot has housed a v ariety of r estaurants over the years. The latest tenant isn’t the fanciest, but it might be one of the mos t affordable. $

PANDA CHINESE RES TAURANT 9543 US 42., 2286400. $

WONTON EXPRES S 3000 Hik es Ln., 45 2 -2 646.

Traditional Chinese f are. F amily-owned-andoperated, this popular neighborhood es tablishment has enjo yed a s teady patr onage f or seventeen years. $

QUICK WOK 801 W. Broadway, 584-6519. $ RED SUN CHINESE RES TAURANT 499-7788, 3437 Breckinridge Ln. $ ROYAL GARDEN 5717 Preston Hwy., 969-3788, 6801 Dixie Hw y., 9 37-042 8, 5316 Bar dstown Rd., 4 918228. $ SESAME CHINESE RES TAURANT 9409 Shelbyville Rd., 339-7000. Not jus t another shopping-c enter Chinese r estaurant, this Eas t End eat ery has provided some of the bes t fine-dining Chinese meals I’ve enjoyed in Louisville. $$ p SHAH’S MONGOLIAN GRILL Stonybrook Shopping Center, 4 93-02 34. T hirteenth C entury Mongol warriors used t o turn their s teel shields t o use as frying pans over the campfire, using their swords as spoons. Sahn”s carries their spirit f orward. This allyou-can-eat buffet is fun, and the f ood is fine. $$ p

YANG KEE NOODLE 7900 Shelbyville Rd. (Oxmoor Center), 42 6-0800 . T his locally o wned and operated Oxmoor spot is c olorful and s tylish. It offers an intriguing arr ay of appealing noodle and rice dishes fr om all o ver Asia with f ast-food efficiency and pric es happily mat ched b y sitdown restaurant quality and style. $ f YEN CHING 1818 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-3581. $ YOU-CARRYOUT-A 1551 E. Tenth St., Jeff ersonville, IN, 2 88-8313, 82 7 Eas tern Blv d., Clarks ville, IN, 282-8881, 3308 Plaza Dr., 944-9866. $ YUMMY CHINESE RES TAURANT Preston Hwy. $

968-7450, 8605

SHANGHAI RESTAURANT 526 S. Fifth St. 568-8833. $ SICHUAN GARDEN 9850 Linn Station Rd., 42 66767. One of m y f avorite Chinese r estaurants in Louisville and another that has s tood the t est of time, Sichuan G arden offers high-end Chinat own style and w ell-made dishes, plus a f ew T hai specialties to spice up the bill of f are. $

SARI S ARI FILIPINO CUISINE 2 339 Fr ankfort Ave., 894-0585. The city’s sole Filipino eat ery offers a tasty intr oduction t o the Mala yo-Polynesian f are of this Southeas t Asian island nation. Filipino dishes are affordable during the dinner hour and downright cheap on the lunch buff et. $

THE TEA S TATION CHINESE BIS TRO 9442 Norton Commons Blvd., 423-1202. Not jus t another f astfood chopsticks house, this comfortable, sit-down Chinese r estaurant o wned and oper ated b y James and Amy Yang joins the small but growing

BENDOYA SUSHI BAR 2 17 S. Fifth St., 581-0 700.

Adding int ernational flair t o its do wntown

neighborhood, Bendo ya Sushi Bar is a genuine , serious sushi bar in a s torefront jus t acr oss the street from the courthouse. $ CAVIAR J APANESE RES TAURANT 416 W .

Muhammad Ali Blv d., 62 5- 3090. (See lis ting under Upscale Casual) FUJI J APANESE S TEAKHOUSE 3576 Springhurs t Blvd., 339-1978, 12 905 Shelb yville Rd., 2 53-00 36.

Part of the fun of sitting at the sushi bar is that you get t o w atch the chef at w ork. P ut in y our order, then sit back, sip y our t ea while the artis t creates edible delights. T his suburban sushi bar does the job well. $$ p HANABI J APANESE RES TAURANT 602 7 T imber Ridge Dr ., 2 2 8-82 44. A hospitable w elcome, casual setting, and w ell-fashioned sushi and Japanese specialties ha ve made this r ecent Prospect arrival a worthy addition to the East End dining scene. $$ p ICHIBAN S AMURAI 1510 Lak e Shor e Ct., 4 12 -3339.

This lar ge Japanese-f armhouse building housed Benihana f or man y y ears. Ne w management offers similar delights, with the tr aditional slic eand-dice f ood sho w and good sushi. Bes t deal, while the off er lasts: All-you-can-eat sushi nightly until the karaoke starts at 9 p.m. $$$ p KANSAI J APANESE S TEAKHOUSE 1370 V eterans Pkwy., Clarks ville, IN, 2 18-9 2 38. T raditional Japanese dishes and sushi ar e available here, but like most Japanese St eakhouses, choose the grill tables with their slic e-and-dice Japanese chef show for maximum entertainment. $$$ p KIMIS ASIAN BISTRO 1915 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 2631915. Restaurateur John Chung is amiable hos t at this East End venture, an upscale Asian bistro that blends traditional Japanese fare with Chinese and Korean fla vors, including such P acific Rim dishes as sushi, Chilean sea bas s with s weet mango and torched salmon in parchment paper. $$ p KOBE S TEAK HOUSE 301 S. Indiana A ve., Jeffersonville IN, 2 80-8500 . Southern Indiana’ s first serious Japanese r estaurant is dr awing crowds with its e xceptional sushi bar, with skilled and friendly chefs who can be relied on to fashion fresh and tasty bites that are just about certain to please. $$$ p MAIDO ESSENTIAL JAPANESE 1758 Frankfort Ave., 894-8775. Not jus t another sushi bar , c ool and stylish Maido is L ouisville’s firs t and only “izakaya”-style r estaurant in the s tyle of K ansai, the r egion surr ounding Japan’ s sec ond city , Osaka. It’s also a sake bar, pouring a good variety of artisanal rice wine. $$ f OSAKA SUSHI BAR 2039 Frankfort Ave., 894-9501.

This bright and cheery Japanese r estaurant and sushi bar is named after Japan’s second largest city.

Local sushi aficionados sa y it ’s los t a s tep sinc e the departure of founding chef James Lae, but it’s still a decent neighborhood Japanese spot. $$ RAW SUSHI L OUNGE 52 0 S. F ourth St., 585-5880 .

Raw mak es good use of hip quart ers in a glitzy renovation of the old Marmaduke Building (next to the Seelbach). Diners ma y choose fr om a br oad selection of c ompetent sushi and Japanese f air, plus fine int ernational seafood dishes at dinner , in a sophisticated lounge atmosphere. $$$ p f e SAKURA BL UE 4600 Shelb yville Rd., 89 7-3600.

Located in elegant, upscale quart ers in a St. Matthews shopping c enter, Sak ura Blue—dir ect descendant of the old, popular Bonsai—r anks among the city’s top sushi bars. $$ SAPPORO J APANESE GRILL & SUSHI 1706 Bardstown Rd., 4 79-5550. T rendy, e ven glitzy , with har d-edged indus trial dec or—and mos t important, e xcellent f ood—Sapporo r anks in m y ratings as the city’ s No . 1 spot f or sushi and Japanese fare. $$$ p

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SHOGUN J APANESE S TEAK HOUSE 9026 Taylorsville Rd., 4 99-5700, 4 110 Hampt on Lak e Way, 394-0123. Shogun’s decor is attractive, and quality f ood and servic e mak e it a pleasant dining des tination. It ’s unthr eatening enough t o appeal t o those who find e xotic cuisine “challenging,” but good enough t o satisfy jus t about anyone who craves a Japanese dinner or a bite of sushi. $$$ p TOKYO JAPANESE RESTAURANT 2415C Lime Kiln Ln., 339-7171. It’s appealing, pleasant in atmosphere and friendly in servic e, and mos t important, this East End sushi bar serv es e xcellent Japanese treats, pr epared with car e and flair fr om highquality, impeccably fresh ingredients. $$

ARIRANG 12 567 Shelb yville Rd., 2 44-9838. F or many y ears a hidden je wel in the Buechel ar ea, this fine K orean r estaurant-plus-sushi-bar reopened r ecently in the f ormer quart ers of Oriental Express in the Middletown area. $ p KOREANA II 5009 Preston Hwy., 968-9686. One of the city’ s f ew r estaurants de voted entir ely t o authentic Korean fare, Koreana is w orth a special trip f or this ethnic cuisine that off ers a hearty , spicy alternative to the more familiar Chinese. $$ LEE’S KOREAN RESTAURANT 1941 Bishop Ln., 4569714. T his little spot has been a secr et sinc e the ’70s, and it jus t k eeps on going. W alk int o what looks lik e a diner in an offic e building, but push past the c ounter t o the back r oom, wher e y ou’ll find gener ous heaps of r eally authentic K orean food for next to nothing. $$ PINK DOOR NOODLES & TEA L OUNGE 2222 Dundee Rd., 2 95-2 441. T his popular Highlands spot boas ts an edgy , high-t ech Japanese s tyle, complete with a liv e video w all. L ook f or light er Asian fare, noodle dishes and sushi, along with a wide variety of t eas, sakes and t echno-Japanese cocktails. $ p

in K entucky, Tennessee and Indiana. T he “Smile” represents my reaction to its simple but very well prepared T hai f are. Don’t ask f or the fiv e-chilepepper heat unless you really mean it! $ THAI TASTE 1977 Br ownsboro Rd., 89 7-7682 . T he owner-host of this friendly , casual spot in Crescent Hill had a r estaurant in Bangk ok before moving t o L ouisville, and his e xperience sho ws.

The w armth of his w elcome—and the quality of the food—make Thai Taste special. $

ANNIE CAFÉ 308 W. Woodlawn, 36 3-4847. Annie Café r anks not jus t as one of m y f avorite Vietnamese restaurants, but one the city’s best of any variety, particularly when v alue and pric e are taken into account. Authentic Vietnamese food is made with care and served with pride. $

VIETNAM KIT CHEN 5339 Mitscher A ve., 36 3-5154.

This little South End s torefront is w ell w orth seeking out. T he chef goes be yond the or dinary, preparing authentic Vietnamese dishes of unusual subtlety and flavor. I have yet to be disappointed with the quality of the f ood or service. $ ZEN GARDEN 2 2 40 Fr ankfort A ve., 895-9114. A vegetarian restaurant must pass one simple t est: at the end of the meal, I mus t not miss meat. Zen Garden pas ses this t est with flying w ok and chopsticks. $ f

BEHAR CAFÉ 5600 National T urnpike, 368-5658.

This shopping-c enter s torefront has bec ome a popular aft er-work gathering spot f or the city’ s growing c ommunity of immigr ants fr om Bosnia, for whom it ’s a c omfortable place to get a drink, a sausage, and feel at home. $

CAFÉ MIMOS A 12 16 Bar dstown Rd., 458-2 2 33.

Dating back t o the ‘80s as the city’ s first serious restaurant in the Fr ench-Vietnamese tradition, its current management s till offers a short selection of good Vietnamese food plus Chinese-American fare, as w ell as one of the city’ s more interesting sushi bars. $ p

BOSAN-MAK 382 5 Old Bar dstown Rd., 456- 1919.

Friendly and e xceptionally hospitable , f amilyowned BosnaMak c elebrates the heritage of the owners and chefs in Bosnia and Macedonia in the Balkans and picks up a f ew culinary additions from their time in German y. $ f

LEMONGRASS CAFÉ 1019 Bardstown Rd., 238-3981, 11606 Shelb yville Rd., 2 44-7110, 106 F airfax A ve., 893-7757. L emongrass Café off ers an appealing blend of V ietnamese, T hai and Chinese f are in a simple setting that tr anscends an ob viously lo w budget with style and grace. $

DJULI 5312 S. T hird St., 368-5199 . Bosnian f are is the specialty in this tin y spot in the incr easingly international culinary smor gasbord at Ir oquois Manor shopping center. Bosnian immigrants appear to be the primary clientele, but everyone’s welcome to discover this hearty Yugoslavian cuisine. $

PHO BINH MINH 6709 Str awberry Ln., 3 75-92 49.

Tiny and lo vably c ozy, this six -table South End spot is true authentic V ietnamese, and so are the proprietors. T here’s some language barrier , but the owners are so friendly, and the food so good, that it’s worth the effort if you love real Asian fare and inexpensive prices. $

ERIKA’S GERMAN RESTAURANT 9301 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy. 4 99-882 2 . F or a city with a s trong German heritage, L ouisville is w oefully short on authentic German r estaurants, but this genuinely Germanic

MAI’S THAI RES TAURANT 1411 E. T enth St., Jeffersonville, IN, 282-0198. With a broad range of well-prepared and authentic T hai dishes, Mai’ s is the eat ery t o beat among the metr o ar ea’s T hai restaurants. For both authenticity and quality , it ’s right up there with the top Thai places I’ve enjoyed in New York, San Francisco and Seattle. $ SALA THAI 9114 T aylorsville Rd. (St ony Br ook Shopping Center), 493-3944. Fine and fancy, Sala Thai off ers L ouisville an upscale T hai alt ernative, presenting ethnic f are in a s tylish setting that places it among the bes t, and c ertainly the mos t upscale, of the city’s cadre of Thai eateries. $$ p SIMPLY THAI 318 W allace A ve., 899-96 70. Owner Mahn Saing is Burmese; his wif e, a clas sically trained chef, is Thai. They’ve beautifully made o ver this little St. Matthe ws spot, off ering a small menu of tr aditional T hai dishes, w ell-made sushi and a few upscale Thai-style “fusion” dinner items. $ f THAI CAFÉ 2 2 2 6 Holida y Manor , 42 5-4815. Y ou’ll find this small café tuck ed int o a c orner of the “Holiday Manor W alk.” Owner Cha vantee Sno w and her f amily off er a small but w ell-prepared selection of authentic T hai dishes at v ery reasonable prices. $ THAI SIAM 3002 Bar dstown Rd., 458-68 71.

Louisville’s first Thai restaurant, this Gardiner Lane spot has built a lo yal audienc e o ver the y ears, perhaps r esponding t o its r egular visit ors’ preferences with f ood that ’s a bit on the tame side for Thai. $$ THAI SMILE 5 5800 Preston Hwy., 961-9018. The “5” represents the number of r estaurants in this Frankfort-based mini-chain, which has r estaurants www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Fall 2007 77

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eatery attracts hungry crowds to Hurstbourne. Take care not to miss its former fast-food quarters just off I-64 local access ramp. $$ GASTHAUS 4812 Brownsboro Center, 899-7177. The Greipel f amily c omes s traight fr om Ba varia t o Eastern Louisville with Gasthaus, a destination for local lovers of Germanic f are. T he setting has as authentic a f eeling as the hearty and delicious German dishes here. $$$

BRENDAN’S 392 1 Shelb yville Rd., 895- 12 12 . Owner Tom O’Shea (also of Flannigan’ s and O’Shea’s) has done a great job of endowing this old St. Matthews saloon with an upscale f eel, gourmet-s tyle dining options and a very popular bar. $$ p e IRISH ROVER 2319 Frankfort Ave., 899-3544, 117 E. Main St, LaGr ange, 2 2 2 -2 2 86. A w arm and welcoming pub with an authentic Irish accent, this is a delightful plac e for a tall glas s of Guinnes s, a snack and a bit of Irish music. I r ecommend the fish and chips. $ p f MOLLY MAL ONE’S 933 Baxt er A ve., 4 73-12 2 2 . A carefully c onstructed r eplica of a modern urban Irish pub, Molly Malone’s is worthy addition to the city’s eating and drinking sc ene, as authentically Irish as the Wearin’ o’ the Green. $$ p f e O’SHEA’S TRADITIONAL IRISH PUB 956 Baxt er Ave., 589-7373. A steady schedule of music, and an as sortment of beers ma y be tr aditionally Irish, but the food here is mainstream American pub grub, from the chees y fries t o the Rueben sandwich. $$ p f e SHENANIGAN’S IRISH GRILL 1611 Norris Pl., 4543919. Not just a neighborhood tavern (although it’s a fine neighborhood ta vern), Irish-ac cented Shenanigan’s goes an extra step with an estimable selection of memorable burgers. $ p f e

AMERIGO 1871 S. Hurs tbourne Pk wy., 42 6-4040 .

Chef Anthony Lorie, once a chef at RAW and later a co-owner of Bluegr ass Bistro in the Derb y City Antique Mall, no w tak es the helm of this ne w Italian-style East End spot, first Louisville outpost of a small but growing Nashville-based chain that has won applause for quality. $$$ p f AMICI´ 316 Ormsb y A ve., 6 37-3167. Restaurateurs Sharon and Sc ott Risinger hos t this in viting Italian-style r estaurant that brings a t ouch of Tuscany to this attractive and historic Old Louisville building. $$ p f ANGELINA’S CAFÉ 1701 UPS Dr ., 32 6-5555. Y ou don’t ha ve t o be an Italian gr andfather t o pla y bocce, now that ther e are several venues around town f or this amiable game . T he six -court suburban Gotcha Bocce, run by sportscaster Bob Valvano, also houses this casual all-Italian eat ery, with dishes based on Bob’s family recipes. $ BUCA DI BEPPO 2 051 S. Hurs tbourne Pk wy., 4 932426. Buca di Beppo’s recipe has all the necessary ingredients: huge portions of excellent food served with flair and the Buca sc ene is fun, a c onscious parody of the e xuberant dec or of f amily ItalianAmerican restaurants of the 1950s. $$ p CARRABBA’S IT ALIAN GRILL 617 S. Hurs tbourne Pkwy., 4 12 -2 2 18. Not y our or dinary suburban shopping-center fr anchise eat ery. T his plac e dramatically exceeds expectations. From warmed bread dishes with quality oliv e oil t o firs t-rate Italian-American fare at reasonable prices. $$ p f COME BACK INN 909 Swan St., 627-1777, 415 Spring St., Jeff ersonville IN, 2 85- 1777. W ith both its branches located in urban neighborhoods, C ome Back Inn looks pr etty much lik e an y other

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neighborhood saloon. But unlik e mos t L ouisville neighborhood saloons, this one houses a f amily Italian spot that w ouldn’t be out of plac e in Chicago or Brooklyn. $ p

in the Shelb yville R oad Plaza spac e that onc e housed P ayless shoes. T hin pizza b y the slic e and other Italian- American dishes ar e served in an attractive setting that’s a cut above fast food. $$

DAVINCI BY LENTINI’S 10430 Shelbyville Rd., 2 450205. This East End branch of the popular ItalianAmerican f avorite is no w open in the old Buckhead Mountain Grill spac e near Middlet own. $$$ p f

RAY PARRELLA’S ITALIAN CUISINE 2311 Frankfort Ave., 899-55 75. Old-f ashioned Italian- American family fare is served up with a w arm and casual welcome at Ray Parella’s, the latest venture of a family that ’s been pleasing locals f or a generation. $ f

FERD GRISANTI 10212 Taylorsville Rd., 267-0050. An East End landmark f or 30 y ears, Ferd Grisanti’s is as comfortable as a close friend’ s home. Friendly and unpr etentious hospitality , the quiet but not staid atmospher e, and the fine Italian f ood prompts the c omment, “T hey do e verything so well, and they make it look so easy.” $$$ p LA GALL O ROS SO BIS TRO 132 5 Bar dstown Rd., 473-0015. This small but attractive Highlands spot in the Shoppes on the Alle y, f ormerly home t o Butterfly G arden (which mo ved nearb y), is no w back in busines s with a casual Italian and Continental theme. $$ f LENTINI’S 1543 Bardstown Rd., 4 79-0607. This 45year-old Highlands landmark has had its ups and downs and has been through several openings and closings since “Sonny” Lentini retired and sold the business in 2001. It’s open now, under a third set of owners. $$$ p f MARTINI ITALIAN BISTRO 4021 Summit Plaza Dr., 3949797. T he American-ac cented Italian f are at this Ohio-based chain might be a little closer to Bayonne, New Jersey than Florence, but it ’s good, featuring a short but div erse selection of hearty pas tas, pizzas and Italian-style entrées. Martini’s quality has quickly built a loyal crowd of regulars. $$ p f MELILLO’S 82 9 E. Mark et St., 540-99 75. Adjacent t o the locally o wned and oper ated Felice Vineyards on Eas t Mark et, Melillo’ s off ers hearty and delicious home-s tyle Italian- American f are—and you can enjoy it with a glas s of vino. $ p f OLD SPAGHETTI FACTORY 235 W. Market St., 5811070. One of the original v entures of this national firm. Bright and nois y, it offers well-made if basic Italian family fare and dishes it out for surprisingly low prices. $$ p THE OLIVE GARDEN 1320 Hurstbourne Pkwy., 3397190, 9 730 V on Allmen Ct., 42 5- 3607, 12 30 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 218-8304. The top property of the Orlando-based Dar den chain, Olive G arden no w oper ates mor e than 500 properties and bills itself as the leading Italian restaurant in the casual dining indus try. Hearty pastas of all shapes and sauc es, appetizers and combo platters all carry the Italian theme . $$ p PESTO’S IT ALIAN RES TAURANT 566 S. Fifth St., 584-0567. Offic es f or blocks ar ound empty int o this bus tling Italian eat ery f or w eekday lunches featuring hearty platt ers of lasagna, z esty salads, red wine and ic ed tea. On Satur days, the kit chen switches over to a special Persian menu. $ PORCINI 2 730 Fr ankfort A ve., 894-8686. An expanded dining room and a stylish alfresco patio facing busy Frankfort Ave. make Porcini’s an even more popular des tination, a plac e t o see and be seen—and, while y ou’re at it, enjo y a drink and a decent Italian-American dinner. $$$ p PRIMO 445 E. Market St., 583-1808. Restaurateur Bim Deitrich has been a leader in the city’ s restaurant scene since the 1970s, and this eff ort may be his best y et. W ell-crafted Italian specialties r ange from pizzas and pasta to steak Florentine, with a fine, all-Italian wine lis t t o go along; all serv ed with panache in sleek quart ers dominat ed b y a towering white-tile pizza oven. $$$ p f PUCCINI’S SMILING TEETH 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 721-0170. A small but growing pizza chain based in Indianapolis opens its firs t Louisville property

ROCKY’S IT ALIAN GRILL 715 W . Riv erside Dr ., Jeffersonville IN, 2 82 - 3844, 10 2 06 W estport Rd., 339-0808. Now celebrating their 30th anniv ersary, this longtime f avorite earns its popularity with fine pizzas, a good selection of bottled beers and a select choic e of Italian- American entrées, with a great vie w of the city fr om the Jeff ersonville riverside location. $ p f ROMANO’S MA CARONI GRILL 401 S. Hurs tbourne Pkwy., 42 3-9 2 2 0. T he Italian-s tyle menu at this casual, Dallas-based f amily chain includes appetizers, salads, pastas, veal and desserts. Chefs entertain while creating wood-fired pizzas. $$ p SAVINO’S ITALIAN FOOD 8533 Terry Rd., 933-1080. $ SPAGHETTI SHOP 4657 Out er L oop, 96 9-5545, 2 669 Charles town Rd., Ne w Alban y, IN, 9445400. Bak ed pas ta dishes, subs, salads and appetizers are prepared while you wait. $ STEVE-O’S IT ALIAN KIT CHEN 42 05 W . Hw y. 146, LaGrange, KY, 222-0300. Outstanding pizzas and fine family-style Italian-American dishes make this casual eatery just off I-71 at Buckner w ell worth a special trip out from the city. $ STRATTO’S 318 W. Lewis & Clark Pk wy., Clarksville, IN, 945- 3496. Sam Anderson—kno wn t o locals from his Sam’s Food & Spirits—offers a full dinner menu with ac cents from all Italy’ s regions, plus a good wine lis t t o mat ch. Str atto’s e xpanded 140-seat patio is a popular plac e on summer evenings. $$ p f e TUSCANY ITALIAN RESTAURANT 165 Outer Loop, 363-0308. A dding an appetizing option t oa stretch of the South End that hasn’t been o verserved by restaurants, this good-sized storefront near New Cut R oad boas ts a Me xican chef who demonstrates an e xpert’s hand with hearty , redsauced Italian- American f are at a pric e that ’s right. $ VOLARE 2300 Frankfort Ave., 894-4446. The name evokes Sinatr a, pas ta with t omato sauc e and candles in Chianti bottles, but stylish Volare kicks that image up a not ch. W ith a c ombination of Italian s tandards and monthly menu updat es, Chef Josh Moor e and hos t Majid Gha vami ha ve secured V olare as the city’ s t op spot f or sua ve Italian dining. $$$ p f

DE LA T ORRE’S 1606 Bar dstown Rd., 456-4 955.

From C entral Spain, authentic Cas tilian f ood ranging from tapas t o a memor able paella mak e this Highlands s tandby a unique e xperience reminiscent of dining on a squar e in Madrid. $$$ LA BODEGA 1604 Bar dstown Rd., 456-4 955. Ne xtdoor t o the e xcellent De La T orre’s Spanish restaurant, La Bodega off ers diners the city’s most authentic Spanish-s tyle tapas bar , f eaturing the small bites originally invented in the out door cafés of Jerez. $$ p f MOJITO TAPAS RES TAURANT 2 2 31 Holida y Manor Shopping C enter, 42 5-094 9. Gift ed y oung chef Fernando Martine z (also of Ha vana Rumba) hits the culinary jackpot with this Eas t End hot spot.

His int ernational a rray of Spanish inspir ed small plates (“ tapas”), imposing paella and libations has won critical ac claim and made Mojit o a local favorite. $ p f

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PALERMO VIEJO 1359 Bar dstown Rd., 456-646 1.

This eatery’s name may sound Italian, but is, in fact, Louisville’s only sour ce of Ar gentinian cuisine .

Steaks sear ed on authentic parrillada char coal grills ar e a primary dr aw, but ther e’s e xcellent chicken, seafood and much more. $$ p f

INDIA PALACE 9424 Shelbyville Rd., 394-0490. This longtime local Indian r estaurant, originally on Bardstown R oad and no w housed in this e xoticlooking East End building that has housed a s tring of well-known eateries, is a contender for the city’s top Indian spot. T he expansive lunch buffet is well handled and a particularly good v alue. $$ f KASHMIR INDIAN RES TAURANT 12 85 Bar dstown Rd., 4 73-8765. One of the city’ s mos t popular Indian restaurants, Kashmir is casual, neither posh nor expensive, and it produces an extensive menu of seemingly authentic Indian f are. $$ f SHALIMAR INDIAN RES TAURANT 182 0 S. Hurstbourne Pk wy., 4 93-8899. Modern and sleek in appearance, modest in price, this restaurant has become the patriar ch of local Indian r estaurants.

With a substantial lunch buffet and a full r ange of dinner items, it has built a lo yal clientele. $ p

AL WATA N 3713 Klondik e Ln., 454-4406. Clas sic Arabic dishes home-cooked by friendly people in a cozy environment. That’s the recipe that makes Al Watan a des tination f or lo vers of fine Middle Eastern fare. $ CAFÉ 360 1582 Bar dstown Rd., 4 73-8694. T he latest in a long series of eat eries in this pleasant Highland’s building off ers an eclectic and international menu, with Southern fried catfish and Indian lamb biry ani in immediat e juxtaposition. You can get it all, diner-s tyle, jus t about 24/7. $ p f GRAPE LEAF 2 2 17 Fr ankfort A ve., 89 7-1774. Y et another Middle Eas tern eat ery, y et another good ine xpensive sour ce of f ood on Fr ankfort Avenue. $ f MARRAKECH 1001 Bardstown Rd., 454-4407. This tiny new Highlands spot is strategically situated to offer quick and aff ordable sustenance along the Bar dstown-Baxter ent ertainment s trip. In addition t o the usual Middle Eas tern goodies, look f or a f ew intriguing Mor occan dishes including occasional tagines. $ OCEANSIDE RES TAURANT 3707 Klondik e Ln., 454-3737. T his Hik es Point spot, run b ya friendly Mor occan c ouple, off ers a v ariety of fish and seafood dishes (plus chicken wings and other munchies), with a Middle Eas tern accent.

A couple of Moroccan dinner items are available in the $10 range. $ OMAR’S GYRO 969 Baxter Ave., 454-4888. $ PITA DELIGHT S 1616 Grins tead Dr., 56 9-112 2 . T his Near Eas tern eat ery in the Highlands off ers a splendid mix of gyr os, f elafel and other pitabased goodies. $ f ROAD T O MOROC CO 308 W. Ches tnut St., 3 765855. You can br owse Moroccan arts and cr afts and pick up a bottle of Mor occan wine at this little shop in the r enovated Henry Cla y building downtown, and s tay f or a light lunch that features Mor occan dishes and a br oader r ange of Middle Eastern fare. $ f e SAFFRON’S 131 W . Mark et St., 584- 7800. Owner Majid Ghavami has ele vated this Persian (Ir anian) restaurant f ar be yond a mer e ethnic eat ery.

Stylish dec or, an intriguingly e xotic menu, and a level of car eful, pr ofessional servic e w orthy of a white-tablecloth dining room. $$$ p www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Fall 2007 79

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SAFIER MEDITERRANEAN DELI 641 S. F ourth St., 585-112 5. You can get s tandard American f are at this w elcoming do wntown quick -eats spot, but who’d do that when y ou can enjo y such appetizing Arabian delights as hummus, mutabal, falafels and the gyros-like (only better) shawarma beef-on-pita sandwich. $ f SAHARA CAFÉ 3701 L exington Rd., 895- 1338.

Gyros, f alafels and other f amiliar Middle Eas tern dishes ar e w ell pr esented in this small, ne w restaurant in a new St. Matthews retail block. $ f SHIRAZ MEDITERRANEAN GRILL 2 011 Fr ankfort Ave., 891-8854, 2 2 2 6 Holida y Manor , 42 6-9954.

Offering some of the mos t authentic Persian (Iranian) cooking you’ll find an ywhere, Shiraz has grown out of its tiny original location to occupy a bright and c olorful s torefront in the ne w Clift on Lofts complex and now a second spot in the East End; Shir az shines with char-grilled k ebabs, fine pitas and cr acker-like la vash br ead and adds a wider variety of Persian delights. $

J. GUMBO’S 2 109 Fr ankfort A ve., 896-4046; 94 7 Baxter A ve., 454-550 7; 531 L yndon Lane , 42 50096; F ourth Str eet Liv e, 589-9 2 45; 666 1 Dixie Hwy, 995-8805; 3115 S. 2 nd St., 36 3-8888; 4005 Summit Plaza Dr., 326-3070. Rapidly expanding in its bid to grow into a regional chain, this excellent, affordable s tring of Cajun eat eries has changed its c orporate name (fr om Gumbo A Go-Go ) t o avoid trademark conflicts with a similarly named chain. $ f JOE’S OK BAYOU 9874 Linn Station Rd., 426- 1320, 4308 Charles town Rd., Ne w Alban y, IN, 9482 080. Fine , filling and authentic L ouisiana-style fare is the dr aw at Joe’ s. A length y menu and bayou fishing-shack dec or sho wcases authentic Cajun and Creole chow. $$ p

HAVANA RUMBA 4115 Oechsli Ave., 897-1959 A true taste of Old Ha vana, this bright, in viting Cuban restaurant is sibling t o the equally popular Mojit o Tapas Restaurant. Bountiful servings of Cuban fare as good as I’ve enjoyed in Key West or Miami, not to mention a hopping mojit o bar , ha ve earned Havana Rumba a plac e on m y short lis t of local favorites. $ p f TASTE OF J AMAICA 2 017 Br ownsboro Rd., 8961055. This stylish space in Clifton has a new ethnic flavor, thanks to co-owner Warren Glave, who has returned authentic Jamaican cuisine t o a city t oo long starved for a taste of jerk chicken, curry goat and other such Caribbean goodies. $

BAZO’S FRESH MEXICAN GRILL 323 Wallace Ave., 899-9600. Baz o’s Fr esh Me xican Grill is an inexpensive, casual spot where you’ll find the best fish tacos this side of San Diego as the highlight of its simple fast-food Mexican fare. $ f CANCUN MEXICAN RES TAURANT 9904 Linn Station Rd., 327-0890. $ e DON PABLOS MEXICAN KIT CHEN 940 E. L ewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 284-1071. Born in North Texas and no w based in A tlanta, this Me xicanAmerican chain, off ers full bar servic e and a variety of dishes that r ange fr om sizzling f ajitas with portabello mushr oom, beef or chick en t o crisp salads tossed in a fajita shell. $$ p EL CAPORAL 7319 Pr eston Hw y., 96 9-9693, 2 2 09 Meadow Dr ., 4 73-7840, 1901 Blank enbaker Pk wy., 515 E. High way 131, Clarks ville, IN, 2 82 - 7174.

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has f ostered a happ y tr end: e xcellent, authentic Mexican food. El Caporal bridges the gap between the Latino and Anglo communities. $ p EL MUNDO 2 345 Fr ankfort A ve., 899-99 30. T his crowded, noisy little Cr escent Hill s torefront offers creative r enditions of Me xican r egional specialties that mak e mos t diners w ant t o y ell “Olé!” T he setting ma y lack the tr endy flair of Rick Ba yless’s Frontera Grill in Chicago , but the f are mines a similar vein and does so nearly as w ell. $ p f EL NOP AL 9473 W estport Rd., 32 7-6551, 11336 Preston Hwy., 961-9851, 10500 Watterson Tr., 2665956, 5444 Ne w Cut Rd., 380-844 7, 4214 Out er Loop, 968-2566, 12937 Shelbyville Rd., 253-6802, 652 1 P aramount P ark Dr ., 968-9836, 12 600 Taylorsville Rd., 2 40-602 2 . As sociated with the same family that runs the smaller El Nopalit o, (or “the little cactus”), El Nopal (“ the cactus”) off ers similar delicious, authentic and ine xpensive Mexican f are in some what lar ger and mor e comfortable surroundings. $ p f EL NOP ALITO 402 8 T aylorsville Rd., 458- 72 78, 6300 Bardstown Rd., 231-42 49, 2319 Brownsboro Rd., 89 3-9880. T his modes t little eat ery used t o be a Taco Bell, but y ou’ll never find c omidas like this at the Bell! Run b y a f amily from Mexico, it ’s truly authentic and delicious. $ p f EL REY MEXICAN RES TAURANT 2 918 Hik es Ln., 454-652 0. Although it ’s more Mexican-American than har d-core ethnic Me xican, El R ey earns m y recommendation for tasty fare, cordial service in a pleasant f ast-Mexican-food en vironment, and affordable prices. $ f EL RODEO MEXICAN RES TAURANT 9070 Dixie Hwy., 995-8722. At El Rodeo, you’ll find a blend of Tex-Mex and other Latin American clas sics fr om salty margaritas to sweet sopapillas. $$ EL TARASCO 6100 Cr estwood Station, 2 41-2 32 0, 542 5 Ne w Cut Rd., 368-562 8, 110 F airfax A ve., 895-8010, 9901 LaGr ange Rd., 32 6-9 373, 4 12 S. First A ve., LaGr ange, K Y, 2 2 5-5995. A dd El Tarasco t o the happ y ne w genr e of r estaurants run b y Latinos and off ering authentic Me xican food and atmospher e, but that r each out t o Anglos and mak e it eas y t o enjo y a South-ofthe-Border culinary adv enture without compromise. $ EL TORO MEXICAN RESTAURANT 1810 Hurstbourne Parkway, 4 91-72 72 . One of the t op Me xican restaurants in the metro, El Toro earns my recommendation f or f ood, servic e and en vironment.

Tex-Mex dishes ar e fine , but sa ve r oom f or the authentic Mexican seafood specialties. $ p f ERNESTO’S 10602 Shelb yville Rd., 2 44-8889, 62 01 Dutchmans Ln., 89 3-92 97, 77 07 Pr eston Hw y., 962-5380, 4632A S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 671-5291.

One of the firs t of the mor e authentic locally owned Me xican r estaurant gr oups, Ernes to’s remains c onsistently r eliable. Fr om the crisp y home-fried chips t o filling Mexican main c ourses and tas ty des serts, it ’s a w orthy des tination f or good Me xican f ood and e xcellent v alue in an enjoyable atmosphere. $ p f e FIESTA TIME MEXICAN GRILL Dr., 425-9144. $ p

1132 0 Maple Br ook

KY T ACO 6911 Shepher dsville Rd., 962 -85 2 6.

Traditional Mexican fare from the Ramirez family. $ LA BAMBA 1237 Bardstown Rd., 451-1418. La Bamba boasts of its “burritos as big as your head.” It may be L ouisville’s mos t s tartling case of an eat ery that is more than it appears t o be, and that goes for both quality and quantity. Franchised and fastfoodish, it pleasantly surprises with genuine Mexican fare and Latino flair. $ LA HERRADURA 615 Eas tern Blv d., Clarks ville, IN., 2 80-8650. Is it pos sible t o enjo y truly authentic tacqueria cuisine when the management speaks

mostly Spanish and y ou speak only English ?

These friendly f olks mak e it simple: a handy bilingual menu and a smiling s taff make you feel at home.$ LA MONARCA 6501 Shepherdsville Rd., 969-7938. $ LA PERLA DEL P ACIFICO 2 840 Goose Cr eek Rd., 339-7670. Y ou ma y w ant t o bring a Spanish phrase book to this East End spot, where English is sometimes t entative. It ’s w orth the eff ort though, f or e xcellent authentic Me xican seaf ood and fish dishes that go w ell be yond taqueria status. $$ LA ROSIT A T AQUERIA 1515 E. Mark et St., Ne w Albany, IN, 944- 362 0, 113 Gr ant Line R oad, 9487967. One of m y f avorite authentic Me xican eateries in the metr o. The Market Street location, a historic old storefront, offers an extended menu of authentic Me xican f are; the Gr ant Line spot provides quick but fine taqueria f are. $ f LA TAPATIA RESTAURANT 8106 Preston Hwy., 9619153. One of the mos t authentic ethnic Me xican restaurants in Louisville, this little storefront offers memorable tacos and burritos and more. $ p LOLITA’S TACOS 42 2 2 Poplar L evel Rd., 459-4356.

This tiny place may look like a fast-food joint, but the f ood is about as authentic Me xican as y ou’ll find. Crisp or soft tac os and burrit os the siz e of paper-towel r olls turn a meal her e int o a r eal bargain. $ f LOS AZTECAS 530 W. Main St., 561-8535, 1107 Herr Ln., 42 6- 3994, 9606 T aylorsville Rd., 2 9 7-8003, 92 07 U .S. Hw y 42 , 2 2 8-2 450. A uthentic Mexican cuisine has bec ome a viable option in L ouisville, thanks to a gr owing immigrant community. With fresh bar and blender off erings, cr eative appetizers and c omfortable seating, L os Aztecas is one of the best, with tasty Mexican dishes good enough to lure us back again and again. $ p LOS INDIOS RES TAURANTE MEXICANO 2743 Charlestown Rd., Ne w Alban y, IN, 94 1-9770, 7 30 Highlander Point Dr., Floyds Knobs, IN, 9 23-2929.

“Why ha ve T ex-Mex when y ou can ha ve Me xMex?” is asked in fun on the serv ers’ T-shirts. This eatery is w ell worth the trip t o Southern Indiana for high-quality Mexican dishes. $ p MAYAN CAFÉ 813 E. Mark et St., 566-0651. Chef Bruce Ucán earned f our-star pr aise f or y ears with his cr eative tak e on Ma yan (Yucatan/Guatemala) cuisine at Ma yan Gyps y.

Now, aft er a brief closing, he’ s back in smaller quarters but the same inspiring cuisine . $$ MEXICAN FIES TA 5414 Bar dstown Rd., 7 62 -0840, 4507 Bardstown Rd., 491-2922 $ MEXICO TIPIC O RES TAURANT 6517 Dixie Hw y., 933-9523, 12401 Shelbyville Rd., 645-8778. One of the r egion’s firs t authentic Me xican eat eries, Mexico T ipico has built a lo yal f ollowing in f or good Me xican f ood and friendly , fully bilingual service; now it reaches the East End with a brandnew property in the Middletown area. $ p e PUERTO V ALLARTA 42 14 Charles town Rd., Ne w Albany, IN, 945- 3588, 12 5 Quart ermaster Ct., Jeffersonville, IN, 288-2022. $$ p QDOBA MEXICAN GRILL 1500 Bardstown Rd., 4543380, 9 70 Br eckinridge Ln., 7 2 1-8100, 4059 Summit Plaza Driv e, 42 9-5151, 100 Da ventry Ln., 412 -62 02 , 860 2 Citadel W ay, 4 93-9606, 30 2 1 Poplar Level Rd., 637-5405, 4302 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 94 1-9654, 1321 Herr Ln., 6 18-3622.

This chain oper ation e xtends fr om L ouisville t o Frankfort and L exington. F ast-foodish in s tyle, Qdoba edges out its c ompetitors on the basis of variety and interesting salsas, plus sizable portions at a price you can afford. $ f ROSTICERIA LUNA 5213B Preston Hwy., 962-8898.

Tiny and cluttered and very friendly, this little spot on Pr eston looks lik e another tac queria but the

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specialty, Me xican-style r oasted chick en, tak es it to another le vel, juicy and suc culent and r oasted golden br own. Chick en simply doesn’t get an y better than this. $ RUBEN’S MEXICAN RES TAURANT 1370 V eterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN. 258-0417. $$ p SANTA FE GRILL 3000 S. T hird St., 6 34-3722. This tiny eat ery in a c entury-old r ed-brick South End storefront near Chur chill Do wns ne ver f ails t o satisfy with genuine Me xican tac os and other simple fare at pric es that will lea ve you plenty of change for an exacta bet at the races. $ SENOR IGUANA’S 1415 Broadway St., Clarksville, IN, 2 80-8555. One Me xican chain r estaurant, Habanero’s, mo ves out (w e’ll mis s the guacamole), another mo ves in, and all’ s w ell f or those who lo ve Mexican food in a casual sportsbar atmosphere. $ f p SOL AZTECA S 2 42 7 Bar dstown R oad, 459- 7776.

Saul Garcia, who’s been associated with the local chain of L os Aztecas eateries and the short-liv ed Olmeca’s, brings his br and of authentic Me xican fare t o this Douglas s L oop location. F ans of L os Aztecas will find f amiliar food and mood her e in the same affordable price ranges. $ p TACO TICO 5925 Terry Rd., 44 9-9888. Founded in Wichita in 1962 , the same y ear as T aco Bell w as born in Southern Calif ornia, T he Taco Tico chain has been gone fr om L ouisville f or mor e than a decade. Its happ y r eturn has been dr awing remarkable cr owds out t o this South west Louisville location. Us, too. $ TACQUERIA LA MEXICANA 62 01 Pr eston Hw y., 969-4449. T he tac os ar e fine at this tin y storefront, ne xt door t o a Latino gr ocery s tore.

This is seriously ethnic s tuff, but Anglos ar e thoroughly w elcome, the s taff is bilingual, and they will happily pr ovide a menu with all the English translations written in. $ TEQUILA MEXICAN RES TAURANT 7803 Old T hird Street Rd., 368-3591. $

BALLYHOO BAJA GRILL 1702 Bardstown Rd., 4522559. Another entry in the fr esh-burrito concept, this new Highlands spot is gaining quick attention, with a Baja-s tyle f ast menu lead b y a filling fish taco that may be the best in town. First Louisville outpost of Nash ville’s popular Chili Burrit o Co., it probably won’t be the last. $ f MOE’S SOUTHWES T GRILL 2 001 S. Hurs tbourne Pkwy., 491-1800, 1001 Br eckinridge Ln., 89 3-6637, 12 001 Shelb yville Rd., 2 45-62 50, 10 2 0 V eterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, (812) 288-66 37, 9372 Cedar Center W ay, 6 14-772 2 . T he f ood ma y be mor e fast-food Me xican-American than authentic South-of-the-Border f are, but it is fr eshly made from quality ingr edients and c omes in o versize portions, and that’s not a bad thing. $ ON THE BORDER 10601 Fischer P ark Dr., 412-2461.

A c ontemporary spin on tr aditional f avorites offers a range of delights from the Ultimate Fajita to mar garitas in a setting that emulat es Old Mexico décor. $$ p f SALSARITA’S FRESH CANTINA 2 85 N. Hubbar ds Ln., 89 7-532 3. Another entry in the hot “Fr esh Mexican” niche that f eatures gigantic burrit os made t o or der. Its c olorful fr ee-standing building houses a sit-in restaurant and an inviting bar. $ f p TUMBLEWEED SOUTHWES T GRILL (17 locations ).

Tumbleweed, which s tarted as a humble Me xican restaurant in Ne w Alban y, e ventually came t o dominate L ouisville’s Tex-Mex niche with c olossal margaritas, gigantic burrit os and spicy chili c on queso. But what s tarted as a sideline , mesquit e grilled steaks, chops, and chicken, has become the

main dr aw. T hese da ys, diners ar e mor e lik ely t o dig int o a grilled s teak and bak ed potat o than a burrito. With its Southwest focus, large and varied menu and added wine lis t, “The Weed” still draws diners in droves. $$ p f

ATOMIC SAUCER 1000 E. Oak St., 6 37-5399. $ BEAN S TREET CAFÉ 101 Laf ollette Station, Flo yds Knobs, IN, 9 2 3-1404. Bean Str eet intr oduced the Sunny Side to the joys of serious espresso. Like all good coffee shops, the y’re not jus t an eat ery, but a cultural hangout. $ f BUFFALO MADISON C OFFEE C OMPANY 701 Eastern Blv d., Clarks ville, IN, 2 18-8559 , I US Campus Libr ary, 94 1-2 699. These locally o wned coffee shops ar e fine plac es t o enjo y a c offee drink and a pastry. $ f CAFFE CLASSICO 2144 Frankfort Ave., 894-9689. $ f CLEO’S C OFFEE AND MORE Caesars Indiana Casino, Elizabeth, IN, 888-766-2648. $ COFFEE CROSSING 4212 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 981-2633. $ COFFEE POT CAFÉ 234 E. Gray St. (Medical Tower South), 584-5282 $ f COFFEE TREAT CAFÉ 429 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 582-2408 $ DAY’S ESPRES SO AND C OFFEE BAR 1420 Bardstown Rd., 456- 1170. Dark and c ozy, with an old-fashioned f eeling, Da y’s has e verything y ou would e xpect in a c ollege-neighborhood c offee shop except a college near by. $ f DBL SHOTZ 1315 Spring St., Jeff ersonville, IN, 2 82 7000. $ DERBY CITY ESPRES SO 331 E. Mark et St., 442 052 3. L ouisville’s r oster of serious c offee shops continues t o gr ow. Pla ying the local car d, it features quality c offee beans r oasted b y Sunergos, A tomic Sauc er and Jackson’ s Or ganic Coffee, plus fine tea and, coming soon, light lunch fare and pastries. $ f e EXPRESSIONS OF Y OU 1800A W. Muhammad Ali, 584-6886. $ f e HEINE BROTHERS COFFEE 2714 Frankfort Ave., 8995551, 1295 Longest Ave., 456-5108, 2200 Bardstown Rd., 515-0 380, 118 Cheno weth Ln., 89 3-5103.

Spartan, friendly and aff ordable, with good c offee roasted on the premises and a short lis t of pastries, desserts and panini sandwiches, Heine Br os. has earned its outstanding local reputation. $ f e HIGHLAND C OFFEE C O. 1140 Bar dstown Rd., 4514545, 62 7 S. F ourth St., 540-9909 . Off ering tw o ways t o get wir ed, this c ozy neighborhood c offee shop also functions as one of L ouisville’s t op Internet cafés, wher e y ou can enjo y a hot cappuccino while y ou surf the ‘net in a W iFi hot spot. Funky Seattle-style ambience is a plus. $ f THE HOBKNOBB RO ASTING C O. 3700 P aoli Pik e, Floyds Knobs, IN, 9 2 3-1458. HobKnobb off ers fresh hot coffee, espresso drinks and fresh baked pastries, cakes and cookies. $ f JAVA BREWING COMPANY 9561B US Hwy 42, 2922 710, 516 W . Main St., 568-6 339, 135 S. English Station Rd., 489-56 77, F ourth Str eet Liv e, 56 12 041, 2 309 Fr ankfort A ve., 894-8060 . T hese casual spots boas ts the ambienc e of a friendly old-fashioned book shop , with c omfortable seating, a good selection of pas tries, and quality coffee from Seattle. $

chain declar es itself the nation’ s f astest-growing coffee house company. $ f LA VIDA JAVA COFFEE CO. 1301 Herr Ln., 4 12-9393.

Joining the city’s growing ranks of coffee shops, La Vida Ja va is one of the firs t f ood options in the recently r enovated W estport V illage shopping center. $ f OLD LOUISVILLE COFFEE HOUSE 1489 S. Fourth St., 635-6660. $ f PERKFECTION 359 Spring St., Jeff ersonville, IN, 2180611. $ e SISTER BEAN’S 4956 Manslick Rd., 364-0082. $ f STARBUCKS COFFEE (32 locations) $ f SUNERGOS COFFEE & MICRO-RO ASTERY 2 12 2 S. Preston St., 634-1243. Matthew Huested and Brian Miller used t o r oast their o wn c offee beans as a hobby. Their friends said the y did it so w ell, they should turn pr o—the result is Suner gos C offee, another in the gr owing cadre of espr esso bars in Louisville’s Germantown neighborhood. $

THE BAKER Y 3100 Bar dstown Rd., 45 2 -12 10. Not just a fine bakery but a place where bakers learn their busines s, this e xcellent es tablishment is part of the culinary pr ogram at Sulliv an University. It ’s har d t o beat the quality br eads and pastries offered here to eat in or carry out. $ BREADWORKS 362 8 Br ownsboro Rd., 89 3-32 00, 2420 Lime Kiln Ln., 326-0 300, 2204 Dundee Rd., 452-1510, 11800 Shelbyville Rd., 254-2885. $ COCO’S BAKERY 6915 Southside Drive, 368-9280. $ COCO’S CHOC OLATE CAFÉ 1759 Bar dstown Rd., 454-9810. Stylish, artisanal choc olates and baked emises mak e this tin y goods made on the pr Highlands spot (in the old Seaf ood C onnection shop) a stylish place to stop and linger over for a dessert and a cup of c offee. $ f DESSERTS BY HELEN 2210 Bardstown Rd., 451-7151, 92 19 US Hw y. 42 , 2 2 8-8959 . Helen Friedman has earned a lo yal client ele sinc e the 19 70s with her elegant cak es, t empting pies and t ortes and designer cookies. $ HEITZMAN TRADITIONAL BAKER Y & DELI 9426 Shelbyville Rd., 426- 7736, 428 W. Market St., 5842437. The Heitzman f amily has been baking in the Louisville ar ea sinc e y our gr eat-aunt w as a girl ordering dinner r olls. Made fr esh daily , the pies, cakes, cookies and specialty pas tries provide tasty nostalgia for all who visit. $ MY FAVORITE MUFFIN 3934 Taylorsville Rd., 4850518, 9800 Shelb yville Rd., 42 6-9645. All the muffins are made right in the store, including such popular choices as the Cinnamon Crumb and the Turtle Muffin. $ PLEHN’S BAKERY 3940 Shelbyville Rd., 896-4438.

A neighborhood institution, this bakery is as busy as it is nos talgic. Enjo y the homet own soda fountain with ic e cr eam while y ou w ait f or y our hand-decorated birthda y cak e, br eakfast r olls or colorful cookies to be boxed. $ THE SWEET TOOTH 3110 Frankfort Ave., 895-4554.

You’ll find an enticing c ollection of cak es, pies and other homemade goodies, plus e xcellent coffee and a selection of loose-leaf t eas, in this cozy little spot.. $

JOE MUGGS 994 Breckenridge Ln. (Books-a-Million), 894-8606, 4300 Towne Center Dr., 426-2252. $ f IT’S A GRIND COFFEE HOUSE 2809 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 32 7-2 82 0. W ith 136 pr operties including this recent Louisville arrival, this Calif ornia-based www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Fall 2007 81

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MAP # DIRECTION PAGE # DOWNTOWN 84 1 Downtown Louisville NEAR EAST 85 2 Highlands – Crescent Hill EAST 86 3 St. Matthews SOUTH EAST 87 4 Hikes Point – Buechel EAST 88 5 Hurstbourne N. – Lyndon SOUTH EAST 89 6 Hurstbourne S. – Jeffersontown NORTH EAST 90 7 River Rd. – Brownsboro Rd. NORTH EAST 90 8 Westport Rd. FAR EAST 91 9 Middletown NORTH EAST 91 10 Prospect SOUTH EAST 91 11 Fern Creek SOUTH 92 12 Airport – Okolona SOUTH WEST 93 13 Shively – Pleasure Ridge Park INDIANA 94 14 New Albany – Floyds Knobs INDIANA 95 15 Clarksville INDIANA 95 16 Jeffersonville

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DOWNTOWN > DOWNTOWN

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SOUTH EAST > HURSTBOURNE S./JEFFERSONTOWN

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7 > NORTH EAST > RIVER RD./BROWNSBORO RD. MAP

8 > NORTH EAST > WESTPORT ROAD

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11 > SOUTH EAST > FERN CREEK

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15 > INDIANA > CLARKSVILLE

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louisville • 424 south 4th street located at 4th street live! phone: 502-568-2202 • hardrock.com

©2007 Hard Rock Cafe International, Inc. All rights reserved.

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