Summer 2006 (Vol. 13)

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SUMMER 2006

Hungry?

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check out our restaurant guide

all about burgers sous chef profiles recipes and more

1000 restaurant listings, hundreds of reviews and maps to them all!

All about Louisville’s

Cuisine Scene $ 4 . 9 9 U. S .

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Z’s steaks are selected from Prime mid-western aged beef, hand-cut to order and cooked the way you like it.

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Lunch

Monday – Friday

11:30 a.m. – 2:30 p.m.

Dinner

Monday – Thursday Friday – Saturday Sunday

5:00 p.m. – 10:00 p.m.

5:00 p.m. – 11:00 p.m.

5:00 p.m. – 9:00 p.m.

Louisville’s ★The ★ ★★&◆◆◆◆ Courier-Journal Restaurant

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Opened in October 2000, Z’s Oyster Bar & Steakhouse is independently owned and operated.

101 Whittington Parkway Louisville, KY 40222 Telephone (502) 429-8000 Facsimile (502) 339-0335 www.zsoysterbar.com

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Choose Your Dealership As Carefully as You Choose Your Car.

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The Sam Swope Auto Group is pleased to offer a vast selection of new automobiles from some of the finest manufacturers in the world making us the #1 new car dealer in the region.

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SUMMER 2006 PUBLISHER JOHN CARLOS WHITE EDITOR-IN-CHIEF ROBIN GARR VICE PRESIDENT OF OPERATIONS DANIEL F. BOYLE COLUMNISTS ROGER A. BAYLOR JAY FORMAN ROBIN GARR DAVID LANGE JERRY SLATER CONTRIBUTING WRITERS GREG GAPSIS MICHAEL L. JONES CONTRIBUTING CHEFS EUGENE BELL DAVID MOELLER CHIEF RESTAURANT CRITIC ROBIN GARR CHIEF PHOTOGRAPHER DAN DRY GRAPHIC DESIGN KATHY KULWICKI STEFAN TAMBURRO COPY EDITOR MARY W. JOHNSON PAUL NAJJAR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES ANNETTE B. WHITE GINA WOLFE

Food & Dining Magazine ® is published quarterly by Louisville Dining Magazine, Inc. P.O. Box 665, Louisville KY 40201 The publisher and advertisers are not responsible or liable f or misprints, typographical errors or misinformation. The opinions expressed herein are those of the writ ers and do not necessarily reflect the opinion of the publisher. Food & Dining Magazine® and Louisville Dining Magazine Inc. are in no w ay affiliated with Louisville Magazine® or any of its affiliates.

Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited.

All rights reserved.

___________________________________

Annual Subscriptions rate $18.Submit subscription requests to: Food & Dining Magazine ® P.O. Box 665, Louisville KY 40201, or call (502) 493-5511 ext. 540 or subscribe online at www.foodanddiningmagazine.com For Advertising information call (502) 493-5511 ext. 550 ON THE COVER Oakroom Sous Chef Duane R.S. Nutter’s grilled line-caught wild salmon with orzo pasta, lemon-grilled calamari, zucchini and a salsify purée. (See feature story— Sous Chefs, page 38.)

Photo by Dan Dry

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contents

SUMMER 2006

FEATURES KENTUCKY INNOVATORS From Carl Kaelin’s cheeseburger to Winston Shelton’s Collectramatic chicken fryer and many more, Kentucky inventors have turned simple ideas into food classics.

HAMBURGERS—THE MEAT OF THE MATTER The humble hamburger is an all-American dish that traces its roots to the ancient Mongols.We examine its heritage.

SOUS CHEFS—RIGHT HAND MEN The guy who stands at the chef’s side plays a major role in sending diners home full and happy.Writer Michael L. Jones profiles six of the city’s top sous chefs.

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COLUMNS NEWS AND NOTES COMINGS & GOINGS

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This issue’s report on changes in the local restaurant industry: Openings, closings, moves and more.

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HUMOR TOO MANY CHOICES? Humor columnist Jay Forman goes into full brain lock when he is faced with the myriad choices in the local grocer’s aisle.

LIQUIDS CORK 101: Pairing wine with burgers When wine writer Robin Garr feels himself falling into the snob trap, he opens a good cheap wine with a burger and repeats, “It’s just grape juice.”

ICED TEA: House wine of the South When summer starts clamping down with a blanket of heat and humidity, it’s a sure sign that iced tea season has officially begun.

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HIP HOPS: Barbecue and beer guide Beer guru Roger A. Baylor offers a thoughtful selection of hearty, heavy brews to marry with fine fare from the grill.

SPIRITS: South American imports

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Jerry Slater’s latest spirits obsession is a pair of South American hotweather favorites:The little-known Brazilian cachaca and Peruvian pisco.

RECIPES RESTAURANT FAV’S: Avalon’s Lobster Mac ’n’ Cheese Avalon hits the bull’s eye with this happy marriage of upscale and down-home. Here’s how to make your own version at home.

TOP CHEF RECIPES: Grillin’ with flair

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From the Flintstones to the Jetsons, everybody loves to grill. Our guest chefs from Sullivan University show us how to do it with flair.

RESTAURANT GUIDE DINING GUIDE

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A comprehensive listing of over 1,000 restaurants with reviews.

MAPS Find all of the restaurants in our Dining Guide on 16 area maps.

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news and notes

comings

& goings

It’s a nervous time in the national economy, as gasoline prices creep past $3 per gallon, prompting many to put off vacation trips, and the national economy continues to be shaky. The Federal Reserve chairman warns that the economy is slowing, housing starts are way off, and the national index of small business economic indicators has plummeted to its lowest level in more than three years.

Happily for Louisville diners, however, it appears that nobody has delivered this bad news to the local restaurant community. By the practical standard of Food & Dining’s quarterly review of restaurant openings and closings, at least, the eats business appears strong: More than 30 entrepreneurs have opened new restaurants here during the past three months, offsetting the region’s 15 restaurant closings by more than twoto-one. Another dozen eateries added new locations, against only a single such closing.

OPENINGS Following a flurry of high-end restaurant openings at the end of the last quarter as investors sought to open around Derby (Proof on Main, Nios, Jeff Ruby’s, Stratto’s and more), the recent quarter was dominated by smaller, more casual operations, ranging from bistros to pizzerias and a coffee shop or two.

In one of the most critically acclaimed new spots, Chef Dave Clancy and his partner Dave Himmel have drawn enthusiastic crowds over to Bistro New Albany, 148 E. Market Street in the Southern Indiana city, winning applause for upscale-casual fare, local microbrewery beers and a lovely patio.

On the other side of the metro, John Chung hosts Kimis Asian Bistro, 1915 Blankenbaker Parkway, an upscale Asian spot that blends traditional Japanese fare with Chinese and Korean flavors.

Restaurateurs Scott and Sharon Risinger’s most recent venture, Amici´, brings a taste of Tuscany to the comfortably historic setting of the fine Old Louisville dining space at 316 Ormsby Avenue.

Although it’s only open for lunch at this point, watch for big things from the experienced culinary team of Anthony Lorie and Scott Schamel at Bluegrass Bistro, in the Derby City Antique Mall at 3819 Bardstown Road in Buechel.

Vegans (and everyone else) may safely graze at Benedict’s Garden Café, just off Eastern Parkway at 1519 Baxter Avenue, where no animals are harmed in the production of the appetizing bill of fare. Another well regarded new lunch spot is A Little Peach Café, in Butchertown at 1860 Mellwood Avenue.

An international array of ethnic options have popped up to tickle our taste buds with exotic fare: Herman’s Delicatessen, 3985 Dutchmans Lane, offers New York-style deli fare. Arirang, 12567 Shelbyville Road, direct descendant of an older Buechel eatery, now offers its Korean and Japanese dishes in the Middletown shopping-center space that had housed Oriental Express.

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Moving on to the Middle East in our culinary tour, Marrakech is open at 1001 Bardstown Road, offering traditional Middle Eastern favorites including a few Moroccan specialties.

On the Latino front, El Paso now offers English-friendly Mexican fare in the Ramada Inn, 700 Riverside Dive in Jeffersonville.

In the East End, La Perla del Pacifico is stirring excitement with truly authentic Mexican seafood and fish dishes at 2840 Goose Creek Road. A Spanish-English phrasebook may be helpful, but these friendly folks are delighted to serve you.

Louisville’s first outpost of the highly regarded, Seattle-based “gourmet burger” chain, Red Robin Gourmet Burgers, is now open at 9870 Von Allmen Court in the East End’s new Brownsboro Crossings shopping center.

Brooklyn native Curt Burko, founder of the popular New York Capri Pizza of Borden, Indiana, and later Clarksville, now offers his familiar Italian fare at Burko’s, his new Jeffersonville spot at 2781 Jefferson Center Way. In Southeastern Louisville, Danny Mac’s Pasta & Pizza has been drawing rave reviews for hand-made fare and very friendly service at 1014 Clarks Lane, and Scott Hack’s Fast Break Pizza, 6825 Central Avenue, is luring pizza lovers out to Crestwood for traditional pizza, innovative pies, subs and more. Want still more pizza? Try a slice at American Pizza, 6712 Shepherdsville Road, or Bruno’s Pizzeria, 5170 Charlestown Road in New Albany.

The Bodega, now open in the Euro-style surroundings of Piazza di Felice at 829 E. Market Street, combines a deli, package wine and beer with an espresso shop, where you can pick up a sandwich to eat in or carry out. Another new downtown coffeeand-pastries option, Coffee Treat Café, is ready to serve you at 429 W. Muhammad Ali Boulevard; and Buffalo Madison Coffee Company is pouring espresso drinks and serving snacks at two locations, 1203 River Road (sharing space with Tumbleweed in the Waterfront Park), and 701 Eastern Boulevard in Clarksville.

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Marcus’ Ribs by the Slab replaces Cleon’s in the little barbecue shack at 701 Algonquin Parkway, still serving splendid, tender and smoky inner-city style ribs.

More new spots include Chris’ Place, in the former Sir Churchill’s at 10317 Watterson Trail; Jimmy John’s Sub Shop, 3901 Dutchmans Lane; Chatter’s Bar & Grill, 2745 S. Hurstbourne Parkway; Jimmy and Richie’s, 813 Lyndon Lane; JP’s Pub & Grub, 5610 Outer Loop, and Sports Page Grill, 3701 Hopewell Road.

In addition to all these new restaurants, Clifton’s popular Gumbo A Go-Go, is opening a second property at 10004 Taylorsville Road, and the following eateries, listed alphabetically, have opened additional properties to existing chains: Chili’s, 3623 Bardstown Road and 11600 Antonia Way; El Tarasco, 6100 Crestwood Station; Fat Jimmy’s, 528 S. Fifth Street and 13829 English Villa Drive; Lemongrass Café, 106 Fairfax Avenue; Moe’s Southwest Grill, 1020 Veterans Parkway, and PaPa Murphy’s, 161 Outer Loop, 4607 Outer Loop and 12535 Shelbyville Road.

CLOSINGS Among this quarter’s less happy news, two classic Louisville eateries closed their doors for the last time. New building management evicted the Colonnade Cafeteria from the Starks Building basement that had been its home for nearly a century; and Lentini’s, an Italian-American landmark since the 1960s, finally sputtered to a halt under its third set of short-term owners since the Lentini family gave up the business at 1543 Bardstown Road a few years ago.

Other key closings included Mayan Gypsy, 624 E. Market Street (although Chef Bruce Ucan says he hopes to bring it back in smaller quarters soon); Red Lounge, 2106 Frankfort Avenue (although new owner Bea Chamberlain remains in business at El Mundo), and Crawdaddy’s Café, 1207 E. Market Street in Jeffersonville (whose Cajun-inspired Chef Sean Haggerty has popped back up, happily, at Big Dave’s Outpost).

Several closed spots were promptly replaced without missing much of a beat: Cleon’s Rib Shack, 701 Algonquin Parkway, is now Marcus’ Ribs by the Slab; Derby City Café in the Derby City 10 Summer 2006 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

Antique Mall gave way to Bluegrass Bistro; The Trestle Sports Café has been replaced by Sports Page Grill at 3701 Hopewell Road; Oriental Express became Arirang at 12567 Shelbyville Road in Middletown, and Geli Cakes, 1589 Bardstown Road, has turned over its space, and its Italian ice-cream machines, to Bombay International Market next door.

Ernesto’s closed its branch in the Jeffersonville Ramada, 700 Riverside Drive, to be replaced by El Paso; the Lexington Mexican mini-chain Jalapeno’s has abandoned its Louisville expansion effort at 4430 Dixie Highway, and Juan’s Mexican Restaurant is gone from 3061 Breckinridge Lane.

Also closed this quarter was My Place Café in The Inn at Jewish, 100 E. Jefferson Street; Petterson’s Bar-B-Q Barn at 7705 Hwy 311 in Sellersburg, Indiana, and Station House Grill, 6000 Crestwood Station.

MOVES & CHANGES There have been a few changes in owners and chefs at local restaurants in recent months, as the city welcomes John and Karen Barnett, owners of a Melting Pot property in St. Louis, as the new proprietors of Louisville’s Melting Pot on Hurstbourne; and Joe Peevor and his wife Angela Hawley as owners of New Albany’s landmark Southside Inn. Scott and Sharon Risinger have sold their popular Third Ave Café to Chris Lombardo, who had been the general manager at Vincenzo’s for almost a decade; the Risingers aren’t going anywhere, though: As reported elsewhere in this issue, they continue as proprietors of BBC Downtown and, now, the new Amici´ Italian restaurant at 316 Ormsby.

You’ll notice a new name, Devino’s Deli, on the sign out front of the small but inviting sandwich, beer and wine spot at 320 E. Main Street. The good folks at Hillerich & Bradsby Co. apparently felt that its previous name, Slugger’s Deli, was a little too close to the name of their trademarked bat. Devino’s is just down the block from, er, Slugger Field.

Among recent top-chef moves at local restaurants, Tim Smith has taken over as executive chef at Avalon, replacing Mat Shalenko, who’s gone on to corporate cooking at Aramark Corp. Alan Rosenberg,

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who opened Danielle’s as its signature chef last quarter, has moved along, replaced by Chef Josh Hillyard. And Scott Werkmeister is in at Café Metro, which is celebrating its 25th anniversary this year.

MARK YOUR CALENDAR Fleur de Licious During the week of Sept. 18-23, many of downtown’s finest restaurants will join in Fleur De Licious, a weeklong celebration of downtown Louisville’s cuisine. This new venture, sponsored by Louisville Central Area Inc., is aimed at luring you downtown to dine with special menus at a price you can hardly refuse.

Unlike the typical “Taste of ” event, Fleur De Licious presents each restaurant in its own environment. There are no passes to buy, coupons to carry, or cards to punch. You simply visit a participating restaurant and enjoy a full three-course dinner for a prix fixe charge of either $20.06 or $30.06. This price covers appetizer, main course and dessert; beverages, tax and tip are additional.

More foodie dates for your calendar Be sure to leave plenty of time for the Kentucky Bourbon Festival in nearby Bardstown.The event, with the theme “Let It Reign,” is Sept. 13-17, featuring art and Bourbon barrel displays, dinners, tours, and weekend food booths and Bourbon tastings. Last year’s festival attracted 50,000 visitors.

The Kentucky Bluegrass Chapter of Meeting Professionals International will host its third annual Grid Iron Challenge on Thursday, October 26, in the Brown & Williamson Club at Papa John’s Cardinal Stadium. The challenge invites restaurant chefs and caterers to showcase talent in competition. Celebrity judges will rate the chefs, and the audience will judge caterers.

Call (502) 456-1851 for more information.

OOPS! As Mark Twain said, “The reports of my death have been greatly exaggerated.”

The same can be said for Thai Siam.

Because of a communications breakdown, Food & Dining incorrectly reported in the Spring 2006 edition that Thai Siam, 3002 Bardstown Road, was closed. In fact, the city’s first Thai restaurant is still with us. F&D www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Summer 2006

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BY JAY FORMAN

? s e c i o h c y n a m o o T A

person wired as simply as I am can’t handle too many variations on a theme. When offered more than three options for the same product, my brain shuts down. I remember being trapped at the grocery store a while back, riveted by the selection of honey. Simply put, I love honey. I’ll eat the hell out of honey. I’ll squeeze it straight from the bear’s head into my mouth. When I hit their honey aisle, I froze. There was lavender honey, whole honeycomb, sage honey, whipped honey, spanked honey, chided honey,

and honey harvested by Trappist monks on the summer solstice and produced by extremely devout bees. I must have stood in front of all that honey for a good 20 minutes, paralyzed by indecision, wracked by desire, before my wife found me and pulled me away. If it weren’t for her, I’d probably still be there.

Having all those choices pretty much guaranteed that I couldn’t make a decision.

The food industry compounds this problem, marketing its way through a list of luxe products, leaving nothing but a confusion of options in its wake. Take chocolate, for example. Growing up, we had a choice of white, milk, or dark. Not any more. Chocolate is undergoing a renaissance, and you better start taking notes. White has been outed as being, technically, “not chocolate,” and now exists as a flavoring descriptive to be paired with weird, feminine things like key limes and flowers. Milk is for rubes that don’t know any better and consider Hooter’s a fine dining establishment. Dark chocolate is presently where it’s at.

Just a few years ago, only Europeans and people who read The New Yorker ate dark chocolate.

Now it is the epicenter of the latest food craze. The very term “dark” has been passed through a marketing prism and refracted into myriad percentages, ranging from 40 to 80 percent.

Each slice of that spectrum has different significance and weighty implications. And

the breakdown of cocoa solids is just the beginning. Taking a cue from viniculture, there are now varietal cocoa beans and differences in terroir that only the true chocolate aficionado can distinguish between. And unfortunately, like wine, fine chocolate has become the domain of the snob. Check out a recent online review of Amedei’s Madagascar chocolate bar (70 percent): “The flavour is exquisitely delicate, starting with a brief woody sensation, before proceeding to a floral and vanilla tone. Then the body flavour sets in— almond. It’s continuous and unmistakable, soft and soothing. Some suggestions of melon linger about for a refreshing contrast …

Madagascar is truly a beautiful young virgin bride in her wedding dress.” (http://www.seventypercent.com/chocop/ bar_detail.asp?ID=213) Remember—we are talking about a chocolate bar here. It used to be, “Do I want a Mars or a Snickers?” Now it is, “Do I hunger for the brute strength and assertive twang of the Chuao bean or, rather, the glossy snap and creamy mouthfeel of an Amedei criollo blend?”

To make sense of this nonsense, or perhaps to encourage it, some high-end chocolate bars now come with charts and explanations on the wrapper in case the caveman purchasing the item can’t tell the difference between Beethoven the composer and Beethoven the Saint Bernard. If indeed the job of advertising is, as stated in the novel Infinite Jest, to “create an anxiety relievable by purchase,” then the marketers of chocolate deserve a raise.

These days, simply trying to choose a

No, this is not me. I requested a more attractive model be used in my stead for this headshot.

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candy bar at Whole Foods can trigger a panic attack.

All this harkens back to the onset of the microbrew craze in the mid-90s. Back then there was an explosion of new beers, some containing extremely wrong ingredients like oatmeal and pumpkins. I applaud that whole movement—what I can remember of it, anyway—since the end result was more and better choices for us, the consumers. But for every new beer flavor that scored, about 20 or so shanked wide right and tumbled ingloriously into the cheap seats of food history.

This sort of thing echoes the insidious trend of fusion cooking. When restaurants simply broke down along obscure nationalistic lines, this was a good thing.

But then they intermingled to create bastard cuisines in a cry for attention and patronage. These days, a Portuguese tapas bar is not going to cut it.You’ve got to have a Basque-influenced Pre-Incan rib shack to get any ink.

And nested within the dark heart of fusion loomed the specter of “vertical cuisine” back in the 90s. Fine dining in New York, already pretentious enough, reached new heights of stupid with architecturally contrived dishes. Wobbly towers of grilled veggies rose from the plate, confusing diners and intimidating the elderly. Sure, in the hands of a skilled chef, the pairing of indigenous ingredients with classic techniques might yield sublime results. But for every Alfred Portale there were a thousand jackasses with a length of PVC and a squeeze bottle, and the repercussions of this continue to haunt us.

There is nothing wrong with having choices. It is a blessing.We live in an era that boasts an embarrassment of riches, and this is a positive thing. But, as we all learned in the Spiderman movies, with great power comes great responsibility. We need to beware of the affectations that all too often attach themselves to these finer things, lest we end up like that guy who reviews the chocolate bars. The trick is to simply enjoy the taste of these products and not pay attention to what the marketers tell us that they say about us as people. Honest enjoyment, without the pretense, is the key.

Not that any of this applies to me, though.

I haven’t gotten that far. I still can’t decide on which honey. F&D

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people and places innovators

BY ROBIN GARR

Kentucky Inn Some of the world’s greatest inventions have stemmed

C

onsider, for example, the bir th of the cheeseburger, an idea so obvious that it is difficult to believe that nobody thought of it before 1934, when restaurateur Carl Kaelin sat down to lunch in the family’s dining room upstairs from their eatery on Newburg Road in Louisville.

Kaelin was just about to bite into his usual hamburger when he noticed his wife, Margaret, putting some cheese into the refrigerator. The traditional light bulb went off over his head, recalled his daughter, Irma Raque.

“He said, ‘Meg, put some cheese on one, let it melt, and let’s see what it tastes like. He ate one, then another.” Intrigued, the family made a batch for the restaurant’s regulars that evening, and everybody loved them. “Someone said, ‘What are you going to call it, Kaelin’s cheeseburger?’ ” and a great American food tradition was born.

Kentucky boasts more than its share of innovators in the food and dining industry. From the legendary creation of Bourbon from Kentucky-grown corn and sweet limestone water by the

teetotal Baptist minister Elijah Craig in 1793 to Kaelin’s cheeseburger, Kentuckians stand at the forefront of food innovation.

The Louisville area can post a credible claim to the nation’s first chewing gum (“Taffy Tolu,” invented by Louisville pharmacist John Colgan in 1879) and the chewy delights of Modjeska candies, created to hail a Polish actress’s triumphant appearance in Louisville in 1883.

Long before his name became identified with cake mixes, Bowling Green’s Duncan Hines may have been America’s first popular food journalist. And right here in Louisville, engineer Winston Shelton brought washing-machine technology to bear to invent the pressurized chicken fryer that made it possible for Col. Harland Sanders to kick up his fried-chicken chain up from a good small business to a multinational poultry power. Even the venerable “Happy Birthday” is the work of sisters Mildred J. Hill and Patty Smith Hill, who wrote the tune to greet pupils at their Louisville kindergarten in 1893, little knowing that it would

from the simplest ideas.

remain under copyright more than 100 years later.

Today Food & Dining salutes the region’s food innovators as we tell a few of their colorful stories.

Kaelin’s Cheeseburger Irma Raque, who owned and managed Kaelin’s for many years after her father’s death, doesn’t remember the details herself, but she’s heard the story over and over again,

Dawn of the Cheeseburger Era: In the photo at left, Carl and Margaret Kaelin stand proudly behind the bar of their Highlands restaurant in this historic photo, with servers at their side. Above, Kaelin’s first printed menu features the brand-new cheeseburger, 15 cents. At upper right, owner Carl Kaelin stands out front of the restaurant that bears the family name.

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ovators and says she interviewed her mother, Margaret, before her death in 1982, to be sure she had it down right.

Carl Kaelin opened his restaurant in the icy January of 1934, during the depths of the Great Depression. He was using newspapers to clean a chicken coop at the family’s home in thenrural Fern Creek, she said, when an item on one of the pages caught his eye.

“He knocked a little chicken dirt off and saw it was an ad, a notice, about a restaurant for sale on Newburg Road.” Intrigued, Kaelin drove in to town and parked outside the business, which was then a neighborhood bar and grill, and counted the cars that parked out front.

Satisfied that it was doing a good business, he made an offer. It was accepted, and the family moved into the rooms upstairs and hung out a new sign that bore the family name.

“I was only three years old,” she said, “but when you go into an independent business like this, the whole family has to work.” Carl managed the restaurant, and

Margaret was the cook, working upstairs in the family kitchen.

“Daddy would sit me at the top of the steps playing with my dolls,” Mrs. Raque recalled. “When he got an order, he would call up and tell me, ‘Tell your mother to send down a ham on rye.’ ” Lunch was a busy time, too, as Kaelin’s served not only a neighborhood clientele but also was the de facto lunch room for pupils at St. Agnes School across the road.

A few years later, Mrs. Kaelin was sick, requiring her husband to take over the chore of running food up and down the stairs. “That would kill a horse,” he informed her. “That’s what I’ve been trying to tell you,” she said. Shortly thereafter, the Kaelins built a new restaurant kitchen downstairs, using a tiny hall so narrow that the stove blocked the front door.

Years later, while traveling in Florida, Carl Kaelin spotted a funny sign on a local eatery and jotted the details in a small notebook that he always carried. “If you can’t stop, please wave,” the sign read. He liked the idea so much that he duplicated it for Kaelin’s with a similar sign that has become a small piece of Louisville tradition. When it’s there, that is. The sign was such an attractive landmark that it was an almost irresistible target for thieves.“He had a sign made, it got stolen. He put up another. It got stolen again. They kept

getting stolen. Finally, the last time, a friend in the welding business put one up with heavy nuts and bolts all over. He said this time, it’s up to stay.”

Kaelin’s has been a local favorite for more than 70 years for many reasons, but the cheeseburger has always been a favorite, and they’ve cooked countless numbers (if not “billions and billions”) of them. A lot of people have a hard time believing that Carl Kaelin really did it first.

It sounds almost too good to be true.

Ground beef goes back to prehistory, and food historians generally agree that the modern hamburger sandwich turned up in a lot of places around the U.S. in the 1880s.

Could it really have taken another 50 years for someone to get the idea of draping a slice of cheese on top?

Apparently so. Food historians give Kaelin’s version some credence, at least insofar as making the burger, naming it and marketing it is concerned. The Humpty Dumpty Barrel Drive-In in Denver didn’t come up with its similar concoction until 1935. And while the Rite Spot in Pasadena, California, was putting cheese on a burger as early as 1926, they neglected to name it, selling their product as a mere “cheese hamburger.”

“When I tell the story,” says Raque, “I say somebody else may have put cheese on a hamburger before we did, but we sure talked about it first!” www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Summer 2006 15

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people and places innovators Mrs. Raque says she’s happy to see Kaelin’s new owners carrying on the family name and tradition, but you can hear a hint of nostalgia in her voice as she reflects on the cheeseburger tradition. “In this day and age, everybody thinks things have got to be bigger and better,” she said. “We experimented, we tried to make it a quarter-pounder, but doggone it, we just used the right amount of meat and bread, toasted and buttered … we made it just right. We didn’t just have a place to eat but a place that made memories.”

The Colonel’s Pressure Cooker Over in Jeffersontown’s Bluegrass Industrial Park, inventor Winston Shelton is chairman of Winston Industries, Inc., a leading producer of high-tech equipment for the food-service industry.

One of his key claims to fame is the Collectramatic fryer, a device he created at the personal request of a goateed gentleman named Col. Harland Sanders, who founded Kentucky Fried Chicken in Corbin, Kentucky, and was already well on his way to dominating the chicken industry by the time Shelton met him in 1967.

Shelton, a West Virginia native, says he grew up in a family of self-employed entrepreneurs and knew the day he started to work as an engineer in the home laundry division at General Electric’s Appliance Park that he wouldn’t be there forever.

But he says he learned a useful lesson during his time at GE: “We were pretty good at bending tin, but we didn’t know how to wash clothes,” he recalled. Luckily, he was given the opportunity to spend 18 months on research. He literally discovered and defined the fundamentals of washing clothes, a technology that the average housewife could probably have imparted to him in a far shorter time. “The lesson I learned,” he said, “is that it may not be shooting a rocket to the moon, but there’s a science in everything we do, and if we can just understand that science, we have a leg up in understanding how to design a product.”

Within a few years, Shelton kept his promise to himself and, with his brother, started what he called “a little prototype shop” in Jeffersontown, where they worked on filter equipment for a larger firm. One day a mutual friend brought Colonel Sanders by for a visit.

“I started talking to him, and he started talking about some of the problems he was having cooking chicken,” Shelton recalled.

“But he never called them ‘problems,’ he just talked about cooking chicken and encouraged me to go visit some Kentucky Fried Chicken stores and see what they were doing.” As it turned out, it didn’t take Shelton long, watching the process with his pragmatic engineer’s eyes, to see that there was indeed a problem.

“They were frying chicken in 16-gallon MirroMatic pots— home canning pots like your mother or grandmother used to use for canning in the wintertime. What the colonel did, he put shortening in those pots instead of water, then introduced the chicken and put the lid on.The moisture boiling from the chicken created the pressure that reduced the cooking time, tenderized the product, and made KFC the business that it is today.”

But the genius of this cooking concept ran up against practical workflow and safety considerations: “They were putting that MirroMatic pot over an open flame, measuring the temperature 16 Summer 2006 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

BY ROBIN GARR

with a thermometer that hinged down into the pot. When it reached 400 degrees, they’d move that thermometer out of the way, put the pressure cap on, and write the starting time in grease on the wall. He’d have 16 of those pots frying at once, and every time the chicken cooked, he had to pick up a pot full of 10 pounds of hot shortening, carry it across a busy aisle full of people and dump out the hot chicken.”

Every move was fraught with risk and, Shelton said, “This was low hanging fruit for an engineer—keeping track of time and temperature. Just coming out of major appliances where we knew how to keep track of time and pressure, I designed something that might have looked like an automatic washer that cooked his chicken automatically.”

While he was at it, Shelton added a device that collected and safely disposed of the chicken and breading “cracklings” that fell to the bottom of the pots and needed to be frequently strained out.

“We put in a large collector that allowed them to cook 20 rounds of chicken without stopping to filter the fat,” he said.

The colonel, who was known for colorful language and an absent-minded inability to remember people’s names, looked into the prototype pot at the end of a cooking run and told Shelton, whose given name is Winston, “Oh my god, Len, you’ve really got something here.”

Winston Shelton and an original prototype of the Collectramatic chicken fryer that helped foster KFC’s worldwide growth.

PHOTO BY DAN DRY

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“At the time I met the colonel, he had 3,000 outlets and 50 millionaire franchisers, making a lot of money,” Shelton said. “But this is the product that allowed them to propel KFC from that point into 100 nations around the world.”

Like Carl Kaelin’s cheeseburger, though, Shelton says, the idea came to him so easily that he’s reluctant to take too much credit.“It was wonderfully simple,” he said, his voice trailing off shyly.“I’d like to be very proud of that accomplishment, but it was so exceedingly simple …”

Let’s wrap up with quick takes on a few more Kentucky food innovators.

Taffy Tolu John Colgan was only 20 when he opened the pharmacy that bore his name at the corner of Tenth and Walnut streets in Louisville in 1860. One day, noticing youngsters happily chewing blobs of slippery elm juice that they pulled from under tree bark, he had a bright idea: If he fashioned a similar chew but added tasty flavors, he could come up with something cheap to make and easy to sell. Browsing his nineteenth-century pharmacy inventory, he found a fragrant South American substance called tolu. He blended it with harmless, chewy ingredients to make a tangy chewable that he called Taffy Tolu. It was so popular that Colgan eventually sold his pharmacy and went into the chewing gum business full-time. Taffy Tolu had its moment of fame at the Chicago World’s Fair in 1893, and chewing gum has been sticking to people’s shoes ever since.

Modjeskas Louisville has been a significant theatrical center since long before Actors Theatre came to town. The city was a star on the nation’s thespian map as far back as 1883, when Helena Modjeska, then dubbed “queen of the European stage,” starred in the U.S. premiere of Ibsen’s “A Doll’s House” at the Macauley Theater. A local candy maker, Anton Busath, inspired by her acting or perhaps by a hot business opportunity, asked permission to name one of his most popular candies, previously dubbed the caramel biscuit, in her honor.

She agreed, and Louisvillians have been happily chewing Modjeskas ever since.

Busath’s Candies held the rights to the name for a generation, but after Mr. Busath died, several other local candy makers started using the name … and they still do.

Duncan Hines For many years in the first half of the twentieth-century, “Recommended

by Duncan Hines” was the contemporary equivalent of a Mobil four-star and AAA five-diamond and Wine Spectator award all rolled into one. Hines, born in Bowling Green, Kentucky, in 1880, was one of the first syndicated newspaper dining critics.

His column, “Adventures in Good Eating,” described restaurants and dishes across the nation, coinciding with the mushrooming development of the family auto and the U.S. highway system. At the age of 73 and nearing retirement (he died in 1959), Hines sold his trademarks to Procter & Gamble Co., which plastered his name on consumer food products. As a result, the man who was once one of America’s most trusted guides to dining out is now known, mostly, as a brand of cake mix.

Happy Birthday!

“Happy Birthday to You” is the most popular song in the English language, according to the Guinness Book of World Records. It beats out “For He’s a Jolly Good Fellow” and “Auld Lang Syne.” Spinster sisters Patty and Mildred Hill came up with the tinkly tune in 1893 as a morning greeting for their pupils at the Louisville Experimental Kindergarten School, setting it to the lyrics “Good morning to you, good morning to you. Good morning, dear children, good morning to all.” The “Happy Birthday” version was copyrighted in a song book in 1935 and, remarkably, it remains under copyright, now held by a property of the media conglomerate Time Warner, which reportedly takes in a cool $2 million annually for commercial productions of the tune. You don’t have to be worried about singing it at private birthday parties, but next time you do, stop and shed a tear for the Hill sisters, who never saw a penny of all that gelt. F&D

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recipes louisville’s restaurant favorites

BY ROBIN GARR | PHOTOS BY DAN DRY

truffle lobster mac ’n’ cheese

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Lobster is a sumptuous feast dish, signature main course for a luxurious evening out.

Macaroni and cheese is down-home comfort food, Mom’s home cooking, the stuff of which childhood food memories are made.

Who in the world would ever think of bringing these disparate parts together?

Well, Steve Clements, for one. Owner and proprietor of the popular Avalon Restaurant, close to the epicenter of the Bardstown Road restaurant row, Clements hit the bull’s eye on the first try when he came up with this signature appetizer.

A tongue-in-cheek mix of blue-plate special and upscale white tablecloth, Avalon’s Truffle Lobster Mac ’n’ Cheese is one of the restaurant’s most beloved specialties. It’s so popular, Clements said, that the kitchen whips up its bechamelbased cheese sauce in 150-order batches, enough to last for several days at a typical rate of 30 to 50 orders daily on a busy weekend.

The idea is not absolutely original, Clements confided: He came up with it after enjoying a somewhat more formal version of a pasta dish with seafood and a cheese sauce a dozen years ago at San Francisco’s posh Fleur de Lys restaurant.

The old-fashioned kind of upscale, romantic and somewhat stuffy old classic-French eatery that our parents loved (think Cincinnati’s recently deceased Maisonette), it wasn’t exactly aligned with Avalon’s more glittery and with-it vibe. But the fancier dish lingered in Clements’ memory, and when he opened Avalon four years ago, he reinvented it with a more casual twist.

Basically, it’s simply a very good, very rich macaroni and cheese made with quality white Cheddar and heavy cream, using more substantial Italian penne pasta in place of elbow macaroni, with lobster claw meat stirred in and a dash of truffle oil added to finish. Blue collar and white all rolled into one, it’s a classically simple dish, substantial enough that it can easily serve as a main dish.

Avalon presents it in small black-iron skillets, garnished with shoestring potatoes and a lobster claw. Feel free to add, alter or skip these garnishes when you make it at home.

AVALON’S TRUFFLE LOBSTER MAC ’N’ CHEESE (SERVES EIGHT AS A SIDE DISH OR FOUR AS A MAIN COURSE)

2 cups grated white Cheddar 1 /2 cup grated Parmesan cheese 3 cups whole milk 3 /4 cup heavy cream 1 pound penne pasta 1 /2 pound lobster claw meat 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 3 tablespoons butter 5 tablespoons all-purpose flour 2 tablespoons truffle oil 3 tablespoons chopped chives Cayenne Black pepper Salt 1. Bring one gallon of water to a boil with ample salt to make the water “taste like the sea,” as Italians say. Boil the pasta until it’s al dente, taking care not to overcook, as it will cook further in the dish. Drain and rinse with cool water to stop it cooking; drizzle with a little vegetable oil and toss, to keep the pasta from sticking together.

2. Melt the butter in a two-quart saucepan over medium heat, and whisk in the flour. Cook for one minute, then slowly pour in the milk while stirring constantly with a wire whisk. Stir vigorously to ensure that there are no lumps. Bring to a simmer, then, once the milk has thickened somewhat, remove the pan from heat and add the heavy cream and Cheddar cheese. Mix well. Season to taste with salt, pepper and cayenne.

3. Toss the cooked pasta, cheese sauce and lobster meat together and place in a heavy oven-proof casserole dish.

Sprinkle with the grated Parmesan cheese and bake uncovered at 350 degrees for 15 or 20 minutes, until the dish is bubbly and browning on top.

4. Remove from the oven, drizzle with the truffle oil, and sprinkle with chopped chives as garnish. F&D

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about food hamburgers

BY GREG GAPSIS | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

the meat of the matter

More than any other food, perhaps, hamburgers epitomize the American spirit.

Combining flame and beef in the portability of a bun, hamburgers express our restless mobility and pragmatic bent. It’s an American creation that, like jazz, has spread around the globe and that, like most of us, was born in the USA but traces its roots back to the Old World.

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about food hamburgers

S

imple in concept but adaptable to individual tastes, the hamburger makes a meal that appeals equally to children, common folk and kings.

While mass-produced, assembly-line burgers can seem to be an unintentional self-parody of mass-market discrimination and taste, a quality hamburger cooked to perfection and bursting with juicy flavor makes a dining experience not soon forgotten.

For many American youngsters, one of the first experiences in asserting gastronomical independence and having things your way often involves a hamburger and its fixings. Later in youth, hanging out at the drive-in restaurant becomes a cliché for coming of age and independence. Such experiences remain strong memories, even as discrimination matures and choices become even more personal. It’s no wonder that hamburgers hold nearly universal appeal to all ages in our society.

Generally easy to prepare and to enjoy, the simple hamburger is a mainstay of holiday cookouts, family reunions and casual meals.

“Hamburgers are simple, wonderful, quick and uniformly popular,” Louisville chef Dean Corbett said. “Whether you’re 9 or 90, you enjoy a good burger.”

Hamburgers and cheeseburgers are iconic elements of American culture and are finding acceptance around the world.

We have movies and music about them and use them as analogies to make wry observations from our cultural vantage point.

In Wendy’s famous commercial in 1984, actress Clara Peller asked in scorn, “Where’s the beef?” upon examining another chain’s large, fluffy bun. Quickly adopted in the political arena in that year’s Presidential debates, Peller’s skeptical question soon became a folk idiom to question the substance of any product, event or idea. Where’s the beef ? As it turns out, its story goes back a very long way.

BY GREG GAPSIS | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

steppes of Central Asia. United under Genghis Khan in the early thirteenth-century, Mongol armies (later called Tatars or Tartars) took advantage of speed and battle tactics to build one of the largest empires in the history of the world. Their disciplined, horse-mounted archers shocked Europe with their quick conquest all the way west to the Baltic and modern-day Hungary.

They carried raw meat under their saddles, both for easy access and to tenderize it; this tidbit later became known to Western connoisseurs as steak tartare. The dish spread across Europe and eventually evolved into something resembling today’s chopped beef; by association with the German port of Hamburg, where it was popular, it became familiar as Hamburg steak.

‘‘

The town of Seymour honored Charlie by building the Hamburger Hall of Fame and hosts an annual burger festival on the first Saturday in August.

Also in 1885, Akron, Ohio concessionaires Frank and Charles Menches laid claim to the first hamburger sandwich at the Erie County Fair in Hamburg, New York. They customarily sold pork sausage sandwiches, but switched to beef when they ran short and local butchers said it was too hot to slaughter more hogs.

Louis Lassen, of New Haven, Connecticut, claimed to have put the first broiled hamburger patty between slices of bread for a customer in a hurry in 1900.

Louis’ Lunch Wagon is still in the family and operating with the same antique grill, now converted to gas, that Louis used in the 1890s. You can hear Lassen’s progeny tell the story and show off their product in George Motz’s 2004 documentar y, “Hamburger Nation.”

Adhering to tradition, to this day they decline to serve mustard or ketchup.

Meanwhile, McDonald’s Corporation, which presumably knows something about burgers, argues that Fletch “Old Dave” Davis, of Athens, Texas deserves recognition as the first vendor of a grilled beef patty between two slices of toast.

Davis was written up in the New York Tribune in honor of introducing the dish at the 1904 St. Louis World’s Fair marking the centennial of the Lewis & Clark Expedition.

Since frankfurters and the ice cream cone were also allegedly created at this event, there may be some chamber of commerce momentum behind his claim.

Equally positioned for recognition is Oscar Weber Bilby, who reportedly served hamburgers on special yeast buns made by his wife Fanny during an 1891 Fourth of July celebration outside of Tulsa, in what would later become the State of Oklahoma. In 1995, Oklahoma Gov. Frank Keating declared Bilby owns the real bragging rights thanks to his first use of a custom-made burger bun, 13 years before the St. Louis Fair.

But bragging rights lost their value after Upton Sinclair in 1906 published his novel The Jungle, exposing Chicago’s meat-packing plants as unsanitary and dangerous. After reading Sinclair’s vivid

Hamburgers are simple, wonderful, quick and uniformly popular. Whether you’re 9 or 90, you enjoy a good burger.

History Food scholars generally place the genesis of the hamburger on the other side of the world with another restless and innovative people, the Mongol tribes on the 22 Summer 2006 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

’’

Hamburger traveled overseas with sailors or perhaps with immigrants to America in the 1800’s, versions of Hamburg steak—often extended with bread crumbs and chopped onions— appeared in menus from New York to California by the end of the century.

And then something new happened: Someone got the idea of putting a cooked Hamburg steak between two pieces of bread, adding a wholly new dimension and spirit to the endeavor.

At least five innovators have credible claims to primogeniture, one of whom, Charlie Nagreen of Seymour, Wisconsin, supposedly flattened meatballs and served them between slices of bread for the convenience of Outagamie County Fair goers in 1885. Nagreen, a mere sprout of 15 at the time of this invention, promoted himself until his death in 1951 as “Hamburger Charlie,” accompanied by a jingle: “Hamburgers, hamburgers, hamburgers hot; Onions in the middle, pickle on top.

Makes your lips go flippity flop.”

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Equus Chef Dean Corbett’s Dream Burger (see page 28)

Avalon Chef Tim Smith’s Kobe-style Beef, Veal and Applewood Bacon Burger (see page 28)

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Park Place Chef Anoosh Shariat’s Pork Belly Burger (see page 28)

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descriptions, many American consumers avoided all chopped meat for years.

This situation sheds light on the significance of the trademark and reputation that Walter Anderson sought to build when he and Edgar Ingram founded the White Castle hamburger chain in 1921.

The new eatery’s gleaming white buildings signaled careful hygiene, as did the paper hats that workers wore and the newfangled paper napkins. They sold the little hamburgers steamed on a bed of chopped onions for just a nickel, and White Castle became a symbol for cheap meals, consistently prepared and available to all.

A generation later, Dick and Mac McDonald opened their first hamburger stand in California in 1940, and in 1955 got together with Ray Kroc to franchise their 10-cent hamburger across the nation.

Within a decade more than 600 stores had opened, and the rest is history. McDonald’s became the gold standard for a strictly controlled, repeatable process that can turn out hamburgers in seconds.

Simplicity and Variety Gourmets may rue the assembly-line hamburger, but the simple concept of a grilled-beef patty served on a bun incorporates almost infinite possibilities: Thick patty or thin? Add flavors or stay with unadorned meat? Broil, grill or fry? Welldone or pink? These are just a few of the opening questions that face the home chef and consumer.

Passions run high over such burning issues as whether the bun should be toasted, which condiments are appropriate, and whether lettuce, tomato and onions are essential or merely optional. Opinions become stubborn when the debate turns to the propriety of mayonnaise, mustard or ketchup in the vicinity of the finished product.And it is not only children who feel strongly about whether pickles should be sweet or sour or if they may be tucked under the bun or only belong on the plate.

Robust debate also surrounds the proper proportions of chuck, sirloin or brisket, fat-to-lean ratio, and whether coarse or fine grind makes for the best texture and mouth appeal.

Should hamburgers be adorned with sauces or a dollop of chili? How about sauteed toppings such as mushrooms, chiles or onions? And of course there’s the eternal argument: to cheese or not to

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A Google© search for “hamburger” on the Internet produces 49,600,000 hits, about 1/200th of the total number of McDonald’s hamburgers ever sold.

Here’s a burger-surfer’s random list of some intriguing Websites where you can read more about this quintessential American food: http://www.theburgerclub.com Articulate fans talk technique, variations and best burger experiences in cities across the country. http://www.ahamburgertoday.com Surveys the world of burger history and pop culture under the banner “Burgers with ketchup, mustard—and opinion.” http://www.hamburgeramerica.com Links to coverage of filmaker George Motz’s affectionate documentary about the tradition and soul of American burgers. http://www.epicurious.com Offers user-rated recipes to give you a fresh perspective and maybe some inspiration. http://allrecipes.com Need more? A search brings up five dozen more variations http://ueba.net/hosted_pages/THE-NewBiggest-Burger-Ever-060421 A hilarious record of friends who create a “Ten-Pounder” and then dig in to enjoy. http://www.oanda.com/products/bigmac/ bigmac.shtml An economic index created by The Economist compares strengths of U.S. and foreign currencies based on the local price of a Big Mac. http://antwrp.gsfc.nasa.gov/apod/ap0208 07.html Approaching infinity: Check out a hamburger nebula as seen by the Hubble Space Telescope.

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Asiatique Chef Peng Looi’s Asian Lamb Burger (see page 28)

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cheese? These, my friends, are all legitimate questions.

Happily, hamburgers accommodate a world of preferences to satisfy all from the freshest to the most seasoned palate. If you are of a mind to explore, a broad range of creative iterations is available for your scrutiny. (See sidebars.)

Good Tips James Beard commented on hamburgers with masterful understatement in his classic tome, American Cookery, when he wrote: “At its best—juicy, filled with flavor—it is an excellent dish, not to be regarded with condescension. Certainly it has stimulated a great deal of innovation, both good and bad.”

However you trim your burgerish sails, these tips will help you stay on course for an excellent experience: Use a coarse grind of ground beef, chuck or higher quality, and not too lean. Fat means flavor, and you’re better off controlling portions than sacrificing flavor.

Don’t cook frozen meat. Natural juices are trapped in the ice crystals and will likely drain out with the fat drippings if you don’t thaw the meat gently first, allowing the meat fibers to reabsorb the juices.

Use fresh beef, lettuce and tomato and avoid processed cheeses and spreads. A good cheddar, blue, provolone or feta cheese will add splendid flavors. Don’t dumb down your burger with cheap toppings!

Form your patties gently. Too much mashing and mixing can destroy the meat’s texture and turn your burger into a mushy experience.

Press a deep dimple on one side of each burger when you put it on to cook.This will help retain its shape, avoiding the flying saucer effect.

Salt only at the end of cooking, not before. Some cooks believe that salting in advance will draw juices and flavor out of the meat.

Don’t squash your patties with the spatula or pierce with a fork while cooking.

This, too, according to the conventional wisdom, will only squeeze out and lose juices and flavor.

Even if you’re grilling, start your burgers in a hot skillet until they firm up and melt some fat before you place them on the grill. This will keep them from sticking and tearing apart when you try to turn them.

If pan frying, add a little butter to your oil

to help brown the meat. Let the skillet become very hot before you put the patties in, and don’t turn them for two to four minutes, allowing time to create a protective sear to keep the juices in.

Cook to 155 to 160 degrees internal temperature—an “instant-read” meat thermometer is a helpful tool—and do not overcook! Overcooking dries out all the juices and leaves a dry, tasteless patty.

Remember, “well-done” is an oxymoron.

Americans consume an estimated 14 billion hamburgers ever y year, mute testimony to the protean versatility of the dish. So don’t hesitate to experiment.

Hamburgers even have a political component. Many people feel uneasy about the contradictions inherent in mass advertising that urges us to patronize assembly-line restaurants that serve a product implicated in the destruction of rain forests and watersheds and that

Oakroom Chef Todd L. Richards’ Million Dollar Surf & Turf Burger (see page 28)

Keeping it simple pays big dividends, experienced chefs say. “Don’t add too much of anything,” Corbett says. “Avoid soup mixes and sauces. Remember, it’s not meat loaf you’re making.”

“Simple is the key,” agreed Peng Looi of Asiatique and August Moon, one of Louisville’s most accomplished chefs. Even when being creative—as he demonstrates in his hamburger recipe below—“Make sure it is easy to replicate,” he advises.“Use ingredients you can find anywhere.”

requires the excessive use of feed, fossil fuels and water to sustain.

Look around. You can go local.

Support local agriculture and ranchers where possible and experiment with some of the fascinating and flavorful dishes involving legumes and other meat substitutes.

Perhaps Mark Twain put it best when he said, “Sacred cows make the tastiest hamburger.”

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What makes the hamburger such a nostalgic dish? The burger wins our affection for its delicious flavor, but it also inspires memories that take us back to childhood.

Every family has a tradition or technique that goes back to the days when Dad would make a family dinner on the grill.

We asked five of Louisville’s top chefs to create an ultimate hamburger recipe, leaving no holds barred in their quest to transform the humble burger into something more memorable. Here are their creations.

Equus Chef Dean Corbett: Dream Burger Growing up with my father, Jack, I learned how many ways one could fix a hamburger: He constantly experimented, and sometimes succeeded.

Truly his best effort was the creation that we called the sizzle burger. It was a fantastically flavored, decadently rich way to prepare America’s favorite food. My dad would sauté a carefully formed patty (6 ounces of ground beef, salt and peppered) in a hot skillet in pure butter, not margarine.

After browning the burger on both sides he would pour on about 3 ounces of Lea and Perrin’s Worcestershire sauce, then finish it in the oven, turning frequently. My father assumed that everyone enjoyed their burgers well-done. It wasn’t until later in life that I discovered medium-rare, thank God. I accompanied my dad’s burger with my favorite condiments, including Nueske’s apple bacon and Tillamook Cheddar. I am a purist—no sauerkraut here. I made my own bun, a toasted shallot herb roll prepared Kaiser-style. For the potato, I prepared pommes frites wrapped in pancetta, deep-fried and served with white truffle aioli. The burger is topped with Vidalia “tobacco onions” and garnished with Bill Kamman’s Pops Peppers Habagardil pickle slices with chili peppers (available from Taste of Kentucky).

This is one of my most cherished memories of my dad. Enjoy!

Asiatique Chef Peng Looi: Asian Lamb Burger SERVES 2 This recipe is a concoction of Asian flavors inspired by my upbringing in Malaysia, a culinary paradise, and travels to the South East Asian region.

Lamb burger: 8 ounces ground lamb 1 shallot, chopped Dash salt and pepper Dash garam masala 1 clove garlic, minced 28 Summer 2006 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

Preparation: Mix all ingredients well and form them into two patties. Grill to desired temperature and serve immediately with Peng Looi’s aioli: 4 tablespoons aioli (or substitute mayonnaise) 1 teaspoon hot sauce 1 /2 scallion, minced 1 teaspoon Japanese miso paste Preparation: Mix all ingredients well and set aside for an hour so the flavors will blend.

Park Place Chef Anoosh Shariat: Pork Belly Burger SERVES 4 I wanted to come up with something unusual and decadent. We’ve been working with a slow braised pork belly and I used that as a starter, like putting the bacon inside the burger. For the burger itself I ground veal and pork together and wrapped it around the pork belly. For decadence sake, I topped the whole thing off with lobster tail and some sensual mango. I think the flavors work well together.

The pork belly: 16 ounces pork belly 1 ounce smoked paprika 1 ounce dark chili powder 1 teaspoon celery seed 1 tablespoon maple sugar 1 teaspoon coarse salt Pepper to taste Ground ancho chili to taste 1 tablespoon dry mustard 3 tablespoons cider vinegar 1 cup apple cider The ground meat: 12 ounces ground pork 12 ounces ground veal 1 teaspoon smoked paprika Salt to taste The rest of the burger: Two 8-ounce lobster tails 4 1/4-inch slices of mango 4 1/4-inch slices of tomato 4 seeded brioche buns 4 ounces barbecue sauce

The rest of the burger: Season the lobster tails with salt and pepper and grill until cooked through. Remove the lobster meat from the shells. Grill the mango and tomato slices until caramelized. Grill each burger for approximately seven minutes on each side.

Assembly: Lightly toast buns and place burger on bottom bun. Slice the lobster tails and place an equal share on each burger in a fan shape.Top each with a slice of grilled mango and one of tomato, and finish with barbecue sauce, with rootvegetable chips and sorghum ketchup.

Oakroom Chef Todd L. Richards: Million Dollar Surf & Turf Burger SERVES 4 This luxurious burger tastes like a million. It actually costs about $45.

Four 4-ounce burger patties 8 slices Texas toast 1 teaspoon truffle oil 1 head romaine lettuce 1 heirloom tomato, sliced 4 slices buffalo-milk mozzarella 1 cooked lobster tail, shelled and chilled and sliced in thin medallions 4 Cornichons or tiny pickles 1 Vidalia onion, sliced, grilled and flavored with pickle juice 4 1/2 ounce pieces of foie gras or 4 slices pepper bacon 1 jar sun-dried tomato relish Grill the burger patties to desired serving temperature. Brush the Texas Toast with truffle oil and lightly grill. Stack lettuce and tomato, mozzarella and a burger patty on four toast slices. Divide the lobster tail medallions among the burgers. Place grilled onion and seared foie gras on top. Quarter the burgers and garnish with the pickles and relish.

Avalon Chef Tim Smith: Kobe-style Beef,Veal and Applewood Bacon Burger SERVES 4

Preparation: The pork belly: Combine all dry ingredients and liberally rub over pork belly. Cover and refrigerate overnight. Sear for one minute on each side over high heat.

Add the liquid ingredients, cover and braise gently for 8 hours. Press the pork belly between two sheet pans, with the top one weighted, overnight. Next day, cut the meat into 2-inch cubes.

1 pound ground Kobe-style beef 8 ounces ground veal 4 ounces ground applewood-smoked bacon 1 tablespoon roasted garlic puree 1 pinch cracked black pepper 1 ounce Worcestershire sauce 1 pinch chopped fresh thyme 6 ounces Tillamook sharp Cheddar cheese

The ground meat: Combine all ingredients, and form them into a patty around each piece of prepared pork belly. Cover and refrigerate overnight.

Preparation: Combine all ingredients well in a mixing bowl. Form into four 8-ounce patties and grill over medium heat to desired temperature.Top with cheese and garnish. F&D

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“Anybody who doesn’t think that the best hamburger place in the world is in his home town is a sissy.”

— Calvin Trillin This is Greg Gapsis’s personal and idiosyncratic list of some of his favorite burgers around town.

Genny’s Diner – The Big Daddy has no peer.This Clifton diner’s mega-burger will easily feed two, no three, maybe four people. Genny’s also coined the memorable moniker “frickled pickles” for its breaded-and-fried sliced pickles, an Arkansas tradition previously little-known in the Derby City.

W.W. Cousin’s – Fresh-baked buns, good cooking and an amazing array of 40 toppings attract kids of all ages.

Ash Street Station – The one-pound “Inside Out” Burgers have all the toppings wrapped inside the burger, and come in four versions. Call ahead, because it takes a full hour to craft one.

Bristol Bar & Grille – Discover the joy of mounting your burger on an English muffin:The craggy holes in the bread hold the meat’s juices and condiments so well between bites.

Buck’s – White tablecloths and flowers abound, but never fear: This upscale Old Louisville eatery keeps an excellent burger on the bill of fare for the purist gourmet.

Clarksville Seafood – A battered and deep-fried burger served with pickles? Yes, and it’s good.

Come Back Inn – Think Italian with this classic half-pound patty sticking out of tomato-basil focaccia bread.

Creekside Outpost – Elk, bison and venison burgers add a hunter’s touch at this little eatery near Indiana University Southeast.

Danielle’s – A delicious cheeseburger variation gains style from a blue cheese option.

Dizzy Whiz – It’s the sauce, or the multiple patties or just that it’s called—a Whiz Burger.

Jack Fry’s – Quality meat, a splendid bun and excellence in preparation make Fry’s burger a local favorite, but it’s the sweet caramelized onions that put it over the top.

Jack’s Lounge – Another gourmet classic burger presented in classy surroundings.

Kaelin’s – Family-friendly and famous, Kaelin’s stakes a credible claim to having invented the cheeseburger in 1934.

Ollie’s Trolley – Once almost a national chain, now only one or two of these cute little burger wagons remain under private ownership.This one sticks close to the historical model, with special sauce and French-fry seasoning that makes this the burger destination for many diehard fans.

Primo – Bim Deitrich’s unique Allo burger, named after the popular specialty at his old Allo Spiedo, is a remarkable Italian-style rendition, a richly flavored yet featherlight veal meatball served with a bit of earthy Gorgonzola blue cheese on a round of Blue Dog focaccia.

The Tavern – The half-pound Knockerburger here boasts a strong following from its Old Louisville neighbors and beyond.

Third Avenue Café – Among many delicious offerings is a vegetarian black bean burger good enough to make a carnivore take a second look.

Wall Street Café – The Wall Burger’s fame extends beyond Jeffersonville.

White Castle – Love them or hate them, this oldest of chains keeps the sliders moving. www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Summer 2006 29

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BY ROBIN GARR

wine pairing with

burgers

I

t’s awfully easy for wine enthusiasts to fall into the snob trap. When you’re talking about a beverage that can cost upwards of $50 or even $100 a bottle and that goes very well with pricey stuff like prime Kobe beef and foie gras, there’s a natural human tendency to start treating it with undue reverence and looking down on the mere mortals who don’t understand it.

Whenever I feel myself stepping onto this slippery slope, I try to remember the words of wisdom that an old Italian wine maker once whispered, grinning as if he was about to impart the secret of the ages (and maybe he was): “It’s just grape juice.”

What’s more, it’s grape juice that, for most of its 7,000-year history, has been the everyday drink of common people, swigged in lusty draughts by peasants out of wicker-wrapped bottles and shepherds from goatskin bota bags. And lots of folks like us.

Let’s recalibrate our attitudes as we take a down-toearth, no-snobs-allowed look at a few of the simple principles behind pairing wine with hamburgers, along with such other downscale but delicious fare as pizza and spaghetti.

As I’ve often preached before, wine’s long history as an artisanal, agricultural product made locally for consumption with the fare of the region has inspired its evolution as a beverage made to go with food.This is why—somewhat to the dismay of those who approach wine as a sort of cocktail for sipping on its own—many very fine wines don’t really taste quite right without something to eat alongside. Good table wines are typically dry, acidic and sometimes tannic. Imagine a soft drink with those flavor characteristics: Unsweet, sour and puckery? If the Coca-Cola recipe had summed up to that, it would still be secret and nobody would even care.

Put a drink with those flavors next to a steak or, yes, a juicy, sizzling burger, and everything changes: The lack of sweetness

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gets your mouth watering, the tannic astringency turns mellow when it meets the earthy flavors of meat, and that zippy, tangy acidity leaves a clean freshness after you swallow. (It’s worth noting, by the way, that the one popular non-alcoholic drink that approximates this same flavor profile is unsweet iced tea with lemon, a drink that many wine experts choose as their first alternative when the situation’s not right for wine.)

Red wine with red meat, the old saying goes, and white wine with white.There are plenty of exceptions, but this standard works well enough to point us in the right direction for a burger wine: Go with a dry red with an acidic edge; and since burgers imply a thrifty, down-home dinner, don’t bother with one of those double-digit trophy wines. A $10 bottle will be fine. For pizza and spaghetti, the snappy freshness of tomato sauce and an exotic touch of Italian herbs call for a particularly acidic red, and it’s no coincidence that Italian wines step up to the plate when we’re pitching meatballs.

Here are a few good, affordable wines I’ve enjoyed recently that should knock a burger out of the park. All should be available at Louisville-area fine-wine shops.

Bodegas Tikalo 2004 “Rubens” Tierra de Castilla Tempranillo ($10) This dark purple wine from Spain offers a delicious jammy cherry-berry scent and a fruit-forward flavor with hints of spice and smoke that make it a natural with chargrilled burgers and steaks.

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Ramos Pinto 2002 “Duas Quintas” Douro ($8.99) You can just about visualize a happy crowd of Portuguese peasants drinking around a bonfire when you pull the cork from this inky blackish-purple wine. Made from the same grape varieties used in Port wine, it’s dry and tart, with scents of black and red cherries and berries and burger-friendly shots of spice and tart, mouth-watering acidity.

Da Vinci 2004 Toscana Chianti ($8.99) An Italian Chianti with a traditional flavor profile, this one’s imported by Ernest & Julio Gallo. Ripe black-cherry aromas and flavors add the characteristically snappy acidity that makes Chianti a great match with pizza and tomato-sauced pasta … and burgers, too.

Bonny Doon 2004 “Vin Gris de Cigare” California Pink Wine ($12.99) Made in the dry, tart and herbal style of Provence, this California rosé wine is no mere “blush” but a pink wine with guts, fresh fruit and zippy acidity over a fullbodied flavor. Pink it may be, but it’s more than colorful enough to make a match for your burger. F&D www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Summer 2006 31

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BY DAVID LANGE

House Wine of the South

iced tea W

hen a Kentucky summer starts clamping down with a blanket of heat and humidity, it’s a sure sign that iced tea season has officially begun. It’s time to put away your hot tea mug and bring out a giant frosty glass of iced tea.

Most Southerners know that iced tea means a tall glass of ice cubes, with tea taking up the space around them. And speaking of the season, there’s really no such thing in these latitudes: People from such exotic locales as New York City don’t understand our tradition of drinking iced tea all year round.

All-year iced tea has been a Southern tradition for more than 100 years, since ice became available year-round. If you order tea in a restaurant in the southeastern states—more reliably the farther south you go—you’re likely to get tea that is dark, strong, ice-cold and syrupy sweet.

Iced tea recipes have been traced back to cookbooks as early as 1884, but it was only at the 1904 World’s Fair in St. Louis—just over a century ago—that this “house wine” of Southern culture was introduced to the American public. Summer was very hot that year, prompting fair-goers to pass on hot drinks and go in search of something cold.

Richard Blechynden, India Tea Commissioner and Director of the East Indian Pavilion at the 1904 World’s Fair, may not have invented iced tea, but he certainly helped make it popular. Initially, Blechynden offered free hot tea to all visitors, but realizing that the intense heat put people off hot drinks, he and his team took the brewed India tea, put it in large bottles, and placed them upside down on stands so the tea could flow through iced lead pipes on its way to thirsty fair-goers’ glasses.The concoction was so eagerly received that, after the fair, Blechynden took his apparatus to New York City and offered free iced tea to shoppers at Bloomingdale Brothers Department Store. A new, desirable summertime drink was born.

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By World War I, special tall iced-tea glasses, long spoons, and lemon forks were widely available, and in the 1930s, the tall goblet in crystal sets had come to be known as an iced-tea glass.

Blechynden’s potion had become a firmly established part of American culture.

But enough history. Let’s talk about the secret of making a quenching, chilling glass of iced tea.

To save time and effort, you can use a new, standard coffee maker for your tea. Provided it has never been used for coffee.

Measure one ounce of tea to 64 ounces of water, and run the leaves through one cycle. Then place the blended tea into a dispenser and add 64 ounces of cold water. Another option is to run two brewing cycles through the same leaves.

Storage and Serving Tips: • Add ice when serving.

• Do not store tea overnight. Brew it fresh each day.

• If making traditional ice tea (without a brewing machine), do not bring water to a full boil. Never use a coffee pot for tea.

Any item previously used for brewing or storing coffee will contaminate tea. Also avoid placing brewed tea in the refrigerator while it’s warm; it will immediately turn cloudy.

Using the natural rays of the sun to make tea is fun and popular in the summer, but experts discourage this method

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because sun tea offers a hospitable medium for bacteria to grow. If your sun tea turns thick or syrupy in appearance, this may signal the presence of ropy bacteria called Alcaligenes viscolactis. I would advise against making sun tea.

Following are a few of my favorite “cool” new ideas for this refreshing summer beverage.

Mix tea, juice and fruit slices in a 3-quart pitcher, stirring well. Chill until very cold, and serve. Pour into wine goblets (no ice) and serve.

MOCK MOJITO Use black tea as you would dark rum, or lighter tea as you would white rum. If dissolving the sugar by hand is a hassle, use simple syrup or make the entire batch in a large pitcher or shaker.

Fill four highball or old-fashioned glasses with ice. Pour one cup tea into each glass.

Divide lime slices and mint among the glasses, squeezing the limes to extract juice and crushing the herb roughly with your fingers.

Add a tablespoon of sugar to each glass. Stir briskly until sugar dissolves.Top with a little tonic or seltzer, if you like, and stir again. Taste and adjust sugar, if necessary.You can also add more lime or mint to taste.

SOUTHERN LEMONADE TEA Pouring hot black tea over sliced lemons covered with sugar helps release the citrus essence and gives this drink a lemon-candy flavor. For an old-fashioned Southern “tea,” I’d put this lemony refreshment out on a special occasion with cookies, tea cakes and finger sandwiches. If you throw in a handful of maraschino cherries, the pitcher will be even prettier.

8 servings 1 quart brewed tea 2 limes, sliced into rings 12 sprigs of mint 4 tablespoons turbinado sugar, or more to taste Tonic water or seltzer, optional

Any way you brew it, the most impor tant thing to remember when making iced tea is quality: To make the best iced tea, start with the best tea.

Stay cool and drink deep. F&D

8 servings 2 quarts cold water 2 family-size tea bags 2 lemons, sliced into rings 1 cup granulated sugar 12 maraschino cherries, or more as desired, optional Mint sprigs for garnish Bring the water to just under a boil on high heat in a lidded pot. Drop in tea bags, remove from burner and allow to steep for 5 to 10 minutes. Meanwhile, slice lemons and place in a 3-quart pitcher. Cover with sugar. Pour stillhot tea over lemons and sugar and stir. Allow tea to come to room temperature. If using cherries, add just before serving. Pour into tall glasses filled with ice and garnish with mint.

POMEGRANATE SAN-TEA-A The first time I added a shot of pomegranate juice to a glass of sweet iced tea, I thought, “Hey, this could pass for sangria.”

Perfect for teetotalers, this works well with any black tea. Pomegranate juice is sold as Pom at gourmet and farmers markets.The fruits we suggest are just a beginning; other possibilities include pineapple, pears, peaches, strawberries or papaya.

4 servings 1 quart brewed, sweetened black tea 2 cups pomegranate juice 1 lemon, sliced into rings 1 lime, sliced into rings 1 orange, sliced into rings 1 apple, sliced into strips www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Summer 2006 33

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BY ROGER A. BAYLOR

Barbecue M

y buddy and I were driving through a rural area in a neighboring state and saw a house that appeared at first to have been damaged by a recent spate of twisters.

But upon closer inspection, it was revealed to be what the real estate agents euphemistically call a “fixer-upper” or “handyman’s special.”

The house needed gallons of paint, bundles of shingles, immediate weed eating and an extra large dump truck to haul away varied vintage used appliances that were scattered about the porch and yard. It was a complete shambles and entirely unworthy of note except for one design feature.

Standing between the house and road was a lovingly decorated, immaculately manicured and otherworldly gleaming frontyard shrine that might have doubled as the Cave Hill Cemetery mausoleum of a longforgotten nineteenth-century businessman’s family.

It was the family’s grilling station.

Now, we’ve all heard imaginative stories of desert feasts in Arabia, where the princely host plies his guests with a series of slow-roasted meats extracted one after the other from the cavities of next-sized beasts, but no Bedouin roasting whole stuffed camels on a spit ever had a barbecue pit to match the one we glimpsed by the dilapidated roadside residence.

Mountains of existential charcoal have been expended to fuel the speculation over the best methods to perform outdoor grilling miracles, but I’m not a backyard, weekend, cookin’ out, BBQ fanatic. On the other hand, I’m also not a fool.

In recognition of the ritualistic importance attached to such matters, my usual strategy is to encourage a strict division of labor, wherein all persons invited to the celebratory gathering must contribute items according to his or her innate abilities.

It only makes sense. Those of my undeniably talented friends who lie awake 34 Summer 2006 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

& Beer

at night contemplating grilled burgers, ribs, brisket and chicken and the various paths toward cooking them to perfection are given wads of my expendable cash, with specific instructions to follow their respective juicy muses and prepare me a wee portion of each.

Certain incoming diners bring salads, fruit, side dishes, casseroles and deviled eggs (always deviled eggs!), while others contribute desserts.

And me? You’ll receive no bonus points for guessing that my job is to bring beers appropriate for duty.

It’s simply the best way to avoid disappointment, because going to all the trouble to select a first-rate cut of meat, to lovingly prepare it atop a grill great or small, and to surround it with scrumptious seasonal vegetables— mushrooms, potatoes, tomatoes, onions—in a feast of quasi-Babylonian proportions … all the while swatting flies, shooing away Lassie and listening to the thousandth account of your host’s high school football career … to go through all that, then to reach into a cooler for an ice-cold Budweiser from a can, is far more than a letdown.

It’s a senseless tragedy.

Contrary to habit and other flaccid excuses you may have heard, the fresh heartiness of summertime comfort food begs for beer with the backbone to complement anticipated qualities like crisp, seared, smoky, ripe, delicious and humdinger.

Please save the lighter beer styles for the volleyball game, and look for mediumbodied, darker ales and the occasional lager to accompany the meal itself.

There is an affinity of origin and intent in all this. Think what happens to the meat, mushrooms and onions on the grill. In similar fashion, the sweet, rich caramelization of barley malt puts flavor in your beer glass.

Guide

Although a high percentage of pale (golden) barley malt goes into every beer, darker specialty malts are the minority components that determine the color and character of the finished product. These malts are dark in color because they’re roasted in a kiln during the drying process in the malthouse. Depending on the degree of kilning, toasted, sweet, roasted and nutty flavors are contributed to the beer in question—by design, of course.

BEEF ’N’ BEER My first choice for beef—burgers, steaks, ribs—is usually Porter, either brown or robust (most microbrewed Porter falls into one of these two similar designations),

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adequately chilled, but never immersed in ice!

Porter is dark brown or black with a reddish tinge, generally medium in body, and possessing semi-sweet notes of chocolate, roasted coffee and caramel.

American microbrewed Porters sometimes have a hoppy profile, while native English brands seldom do.

A gently chewy Porter with a tender, medium rare ribeye … cigar, anyone?

PORK ’N’ BEER Pork offers a different set of pairing possibilities than beef. Hop bitterness in a matching beer isn’t out of the question, and conversely, the cleaner palates of German-style dark and amber lagers as well as their top-fermented bookends, Brown and Amber, are ideal. I especially find the toffeeish character of Brown Ale suitable both for straight cuts of pork and sausages made with pork as the primary component.

While most international and ethnic beer and food pairings are bogus—beer from India does not “belong” with curry just because they share a country of origin— Bavarian-style dark lagers and grilled pork belong together. When shopping, remember that “Dunkel” means “dark,” and “Schwarz” is “black.” Oktoberfest and Marzen beers usually are amber.

Pull a brat off the embers, apply sliced onions, textural kraut and pickle relish, wash down with elegant, balanced Ayinger Altbairisch Dunkel, and be thankful for life.

CHICKEN, FISH,VEGGIES ’N’ BEER To me, here’s where the real fun begins, because summer time cooking extravaganzas aren’t necessarily about beef and pork.There’s plenty of room on the grill for selected fowl, freshly caught lake fish, ocean favorites, ears of corn, and fat mushrooms—and commensurate creative flexibility when seeking beers to match.

Two indigenous Belgian styles come immediately to mind.

First is Saison, typically only lightly spiced (if at all), tawny golden in color, vigorously carbonated, and with a peppery, dry fruitiness. Saison’s attributes are less obvious when paired with the more assertive flavors of beef and pork, but shine through when called upon to complement lighter fare.

The other is Tripel, a legacy of monastic brewing. Top-fermented Tripel usually is golden to orange-amber in color, with malt-driven, honeyish qualities—something to proudly place alongside portobellos, bass or a spicy chicken breast.

Although they’re harder to find, you simply can’t go wrong with Bieres de Garde, brewed in Northern France near the border with Belgium. Some brands mimic Saison, while others are sweeter, but virtually all Bieres de Garde boast dark, subtle malt complexities and finish medium-bodied. Standing alone, they’re serviceable; combined with food, they’re glorious. F&D

Bottles available locally (check local brewpubs for availability of draft) Porters Anchor Porter, BBC Dark Star Porter, Bell’s Porter, Sierra Nevada Porter, Samuel Smith Taddy Porter, Stone Smoked Porter, St. Peter’s Old Style Porter

Bavarian Dunkel & Schwarzbier Ayinger Altbairisch Dunkel, Kostritzer, Kulmbacher Schwarzbier

Amber Ales Bell’s Amber, Upland Amber, Red Seal

Tripel Triple Karmeliet, Koningshoeven Tripel, Corsendonk Monk’s Pale

Brown Ales Samuel Smith Nut Brown, Newcastle, BBC Nut Brown, Goose Island Hex Nut

Saison Saison Dupont, Moinette, Hennepin

Bieres de Garde Castelain, St.Amand, Jenlain, La Choulette, Thiriez www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Summer 2006 35

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BY JERRY SLATER | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

& Perhaps it was the excitement of this year’s World Cup, or maybe it’s just the usual summer heat and humidity. Whatever the reason, my latest spirits obsession focuses on South American hot weather favorites.The little known Brazilian cachaca and Peruvian pisco are fiery imported liquors that make cool drinks. And for those looking for the next “it” drink to follow a parade of minty mojitos, the cachaca-based caipirinha and its Peruvian counterpart, the pisco sour, are poised to take over.

Cachaca Cachaca (pronounced “ka-SHA-sa”) is little known outside its native Brazil. Less than 2 percent of the production is exported, mainly to Portugal and Germany. With such a small amount of cachaca getting out to the rest of us, I was surprised to learn that it is the fourth most produced liquor in the world. Only vodka, rum, and the Asian liquor soju, in that order, top cachaca in total distillation. Cachaca, like rum, is made from sugar cane, but where rum is distilled from molasses—a by-product of sugar making— cachaca is made directly from sugar-cane juice.

Cachaca can be sorted into two categories: artisanal and industrial. Artisinal cachacas are produced throughout Brazil in small to medium-size copper stills, then aged in wood. Meant to be sipped and savored straight, these cachacas are in sharp contrast to the industrial model. Made in large column stills with little or no barrel aging, industrial cachaca is cheaper and readily available.

Now that you know more than you thought you needed to know about a liquor that’s hard to find in the United States, how do you drink it? The Caipirinha—translated “little country girl”—is the unofficial drink of Brazil. An unpretentious mix of lime, sugar and cachaca, the caipirinha is a country cousin to the mojito. Purists might be appalled, but one Brazilian told me that she and her friends sometimes substitute Sweet-N-Low for sugar and switch out the lime in favor of other tropical fruits like guava or passion fruit. Frozen, these are not unlike the more popular daiquiri.

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Here’s how to fashion Brazil’s national drink:

Caipirinha 1 lime, cut in quarters 2 teaspoons sugar (preferably easily soluble superfine or caster sugar) 2 ounces cachaca Ice Put the limes and sugar in a rocks glass and muddle until a

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syrup forms. Fill the glass with ice and add cachaca. Stir and enjoy.

Pisco Pisco’s colonial origins date back to Spain’s sixteenth-century conquest of Peru.The Spaniards brought grapes across the Atlantic and started a popular wine trade. Peasants were given the leftovers of wine production and distilled the otherwise useless material into high-alcohol brandy. This brandy was stored in vessels called piskos, which gave their name to the liquor. When the Spanish king outlawed wine imports from the colony in the late 1600s, the Peruvians turned what had been a small brandy production into a major industry. Pisco’s popularity with sailors helped insure the success of aguardiente, or “fire water,” as the Spanish called it.

Where did pisco originate? Peru and Chile, frequent rivals in border wars, both claim to be its original source, but there are marked differences between each nation’s production, including varieties of grapes.

Peru also strictly bars the addition of any additional products after distillation, while Chile is just fine with the idea of adding rectifiers, such as neutral spirits, to correct proof or taste. But both nations are adamant about their stake in pisco’s origin, and the fight goes on.

There’s no fight over the best way to consume this fiery spirit, though: The pisco sour is a national icon for both countries.

A pleasing blend of pisco, lime juice and simple sugar, the pisco sour adds the sophistication of egg white for consistency and a dash of bitters for aroma.

Pisco Sour 3 ounces pisco 1 ounce lime juice 1 /2 ounce simple syrup 1 egg white 1 or 2 dashes of bitters Put the pisco, lime juice, simple syrup and egg white in an old-fashioned glass and fill it with ice. Pour the whole works into a shaker and shake it like you mean it. Pour the frothy mix back into your glass and finish with aromatic bitters to taste. F&D www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Summer 2006 37

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people and places profiles

BY MICHAEL L. JONES | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

Sous Chefs THE RIGHT HAND MEN

The Vice Presidency of the United States, said John Nance Garner of Texas, one of Franklin D. Roosevelt’s running mates, “ain’t worth a bucket of warm spit.”

From V.P. Garner to Avis rent-a-car, holding Number Two status in any organization is rarely something to be proud of in a world where many people believe that winning isn’t everything, it’s the only thing.

But take it from a proud cross-section of Louisville’s most respected sous chefs: Working under a respected leader can be a fulfilling, longterm profession. And when you’re good at your job, the guy who stands at the head chef ’s side plays a major role in sending diners home full and happy.

Like much in culinary vocabulary, “Sous,” pronounced “soo,” is a French word. It means “under,” in the sense of an assistant or helper, and is a linguistic cousin of the Latin word 38 Summer 2006 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

that we’ve absorbed directly into English: “Sub.” A sous chef typically works under the executive chef but over the rest of the kitchen staff, from line chefs to dishwashers. In many kitchens, the sous chef is actually in day-to-day charge of the kitchen, working hands-on while the executive chef spends much of his time in the office handling management duties. So vital is their leadership role that in many restaurants, the sous chef (sometimes just-plain “sous” for short) earns the loftier title “chef de cuisine,” another French title that boils down to “chief of cooking.”

In this survey of the sous chef ’s art, writer Michael L. Jones interviews a cross-section of some of the city’s leading No. 2 men: Dan Thomas and Chris Howerton at Equus, Duane Nutter at the Oakroom, Jay Denham at Park Place on Main,Tuan Phan at Asiatique and Wing Nguyen at August Moon.

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tuan phan ASIATIQUE

wing nguyen AUGUST MOON When Peng S. Looi came to Louisville in 1981 from his home in Ipoh, Malaysia, he attended the University of Louisville’s Speed School, hoping to become a civil engineer. However, during an internship, he realized his heart was in cooking. Looi, now 45, followed his passion, and today he operates August Moon and Asiatique.

It is hard for a chef to focus on maintaining two successful restaurants, though, and Looi says he couldn’t do it without the help of Tuan Phan and Wing Nguyen, his sous chefs at Asiatique and August Moon, respectively. Not only are Phan and Nguyen trusted employees, he counts them among his best friends.

“Outside of work, we are friends,” Looi said. “When it comes to work we are working.”

Nguyen, 44, grew up in Vietnam and bears a Vietnamese given name, although both of his parents are ethnic Chinese. His father was a circus entertainer performing in Vietnam when he met Nguyen’s mother, who was visiting the country. After their marriage, the family stayed in Vietnam.

“In our culture, we start cooking very young,” he said.“I was 6 or 7 when I started

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helping my mother [in the kitchen]. We started a small restaurant when I was 12.”

At 16, Nguyen moved to Thailand, where he worked in a restaurant for a year and a half. At 18, in 1981, his family moved to America as one of the first Vietnamese families brought to Louisville by the Jewish Community Center. He and Peng Looi met that year.

Nguyen started working in restaurants so he could support himself while he studied business at Jefferson Community College. But eventually, like Looi, he decided that cooking was his true vocation.

After stints at restaurants in Atlanta and Lexington, Nguyen returned to Louisville in 1988 to work for his friend Looi, who had opened August Moon in 1987 with Mimi Ha-Dabbagh as his partner.

“I’ve worked in about 10 restaurants,” Nguyen said. “I wanted to learn. But I picked August Moon to call home. In the beginning, it was hard manning the restaurant because so many people were eating out and we didn’t have enough employees. After the first six months we found a foundation.”

Phan, 40, has also known Looi for more than 20 years. Phan, a Vietnam native, left his home country at 17 and lived in a refugee camp in Indonesia. He moved to Louisville in 1984. When Looi opened Asiatique with Pablito Sembillo in 1994, Phan joined the staff.

Phan said he appreciates the close bond he shares with his employer. “Looi is

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the perfect boss,” he said. “In Asiatique, he is my boss. Everywhere else he is just my friend. I’ve learned a lot from him.”

Phan said he and Nguyen get along well because they have different specialties and both are eager to learn new recipes and techniques. August Moon is a more traditional Chinese restaurant with an upscale bistro style, while Asiatique specializes in Pacific Rim cuisine that bears Looi’s personal touch.

“I am very flexible because I have traveled all over Asia,” Phan said. “I can cook Japanese, Chinese or Vietnamese dishes. When I was in the refugee camp, I picked up some Indonesian dishes. I’m in love with food. I want to learn everything, every cuisine. I have a passion for food.”

When Nguyen, Phan and Looi combine their culinary knowledge, Nguyen said, it’s a winning combination.“Chef Looi, me and Tran, we combine to work out what is the best way to do things,” he said.

“Several ideas are better than one. We respect each other’s cooking.”

Nguyen credits August Moon’s low turnover in the kitchen to harmony among the chefs.“I have people in the kitchen that have worked with me for 4, 6 or 14 years,” he said. “In the restaurant industry that is almost unheard-of. People usually switch jobs after five or six months. I think that says something about the atmosphere here. We are like a family.”

Although he depends on Nguyen and Phan to play a greater role than many sous chefs do, Looi said he maintains control of both kitchens. “There is a team (at Asiatique) and a team at August Moon,” Looi said. “If I need to know something about Asiatique I call Tuan. If I have something to do with August Moon I call Wing. It works for us.”

What’s more, he said, “I tell everyone that works for me to remember, ‘Do not serve what you do not want to be served.’

That is consistent at both restaurants.”

(Photo on previous spread): Asiatique Sous Chef Tuan Phan’s five-spice marinated pork chop, sautéed string bean and fresh fruit relish. (Photo at left, from the left): August Moon Sous Chef Wing Nguyen, Asiatique Sous Chef Tuan Phan and Chef Peng Looi. (Photo at right): August Moon Sous Chef Wing Nguyen’s sesame-crusted ahi tuna, tataki style with ginger crisps and a trio of Asian sauces. www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Summer 2006 41

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Equus’s Chef de cuisine Chris Howerton’s Veal Trio. House made veal sausage, veal sweetbread and veal tender with truffled-parmesan polenta and Parisienne vegetables.

chris howerton EQUUS

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JACK’S LOUNGE

dan thomas EQUUS

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JACK’S LOUNGE

Calling Chef Dean Corbett a busy man is an understatement. Corbett has fashioned a local culinary empire: He owns and operates two restaurants, Equus and Jack’s Lounge, which share space in the same building on Sears Avenue; he sells the popular Equus Mushroom Fumé soup in cans at several Louisville outlets through his own retail company, and in his spare time, Corbett hosts the cabletelevision show, “Secrets of Louisville Chef ’s Live.”

How can one man run two restaurants, a retail business, host a talk show and still have some quality time with his wife Julie and their young son Jack? Corbett came up with two solutions—Dan Thomas and Chris Howerton, his chefs de cuisines.

Corbett credits the men for picking up the slack when he is pulled in other directions.Together they run the kitchen at Equus and help plan the restaurant’s menu.

Corbett said each man is qualified enough to run his own kitchen; together they give Equus a solid foundation that frees him for his other activities.

The name “sous chef,” isn’t big enough for these guys, Corbett said. “That wouldn’t fit what these guys do. Chef de cuisine is a broader job title. It involves having a hand in the creation of dishes. I need people that are strong in creation because I do a lot of different things. Best of all, we get along well together.”

Thomas, at 38, is the older of the pair.

He started working in restaurants to support himself while he played music. But before he knew it, he was doing more cooking than gigging. “It is all I ever did growing up,”Thomas said.“I worked at UPS for a while, but there always seemed to be a restaurant job.”

Howerton, 35, comes from a restaurant family: His uncle owned the Blue Boar cafeterias, where Howerton got his start as a busser. He spent time at the University of Dayton, where he says he did

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more partying than schoolwork. Eventually, he came back to Louisville and the restaurant kitchen. “I’ve always been around food,” Howerton said. “It was a natural thing for me to do.”

Equus is open six days a week, and each chef works at least four of them.

Having shared chef de cuisine duties can get confusing at times, especially for others.“People on the street wonder who is in charge all the time,” Howerton said.

“They ask,‘Who is running the kitchen.’ But we both are. The only time it has been a problem is when he [Thomas] is off and I tell someone to do something one way.

Then he’ll come back, and I’ll be off, and he’ll tell them to do it another way.”

Their relationship harmonizes because they know each other so well. They have worked together at various restaurants over the last decade, and each has spent some time as the other’s boss. Howerton said this shared past means they know what to expect from one another, and each respects the other’s skills.

“Our personalities mix real well, even when it comes to cooking,” Howerton said. “I remember one time I had an idea for a savory bread pudding and I asked Dan if he had something to go with it.”

Thomas joins in: “I had this lamb, a potatocrusted affair, with roasted vegetables. It was a nice dish. Our styles complement each other.”

Howerton said the personality of the staff is always a major factor in any kitchen.

“When you are hiring people you have to not only take into account their past jobs and cooking skills, but their personality too.

If personalities clash it is chaos in the kitchen and that is going to affect the food.

Skills don’t make everything.”

Both men have worked for Corbett before, always leaving on good terms, and the door has always been open for them to return.Their current stint has lasted 21/2 years. “Dean has always been fair with us and we both really like it here,” Howerton said. Corbett said he’s comfortable knowing that Howerton and Thomas have his back. “Both of them have worked for me off and on over the years,” he said. “It just seems like every time they return to me, their timing is flawless. I’m always glad to have them.”

Equus Chef de cuisine Dan Thomas presents a pan-seared halibut with roasted eggplant atop a potato croquette.

(From left): Equus Chefs de cuisine Dan Thomas and Chris Howerton, and Chef Dean Corbett.

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Park Place Sous Chef Jay Denham’s heirloom tomato and fried avocado salad.

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Jay Denham got his star t as a chef in hotel restaurants, a corporate job that can involve a lot of relocation.

Lexington. Nashville.

PARK PLACE BROWNINGS Louisville. He spent time in all three regional cities. Then, during a stint at the Oakroom, Denham and his wife, Jacklyn, decided it was time to put down roots, so they purchased a house near Seneca Park.

When another opportunity came his way—setting up a restaurant in Chicago—they couldn’t bring themselves to sell their home. They rented it out instead. “We lived in Chicago for about three years, but we always wanted to return to Louisville,” Denham said. “When the opportunity came to move back, I took it.”

Since November 2005, Denham, now 28, has served as chef de cuisine at Park Place on Main and Browning’s, the restaurants in the Louisville Slugger Field facilities on East Main Street.

Browning’s is a microbrewery with casual dining. Park Place draws a more upscale clientele with its white-tablecloth fine dining. The restaurants share the same kitchen, but each requires a different mindset, Denham said.

“There is an exciting high energy at Browning’s, which can get very busy, especially during baseball games,” Denham said. “(Park Place) is a little more meticulous. It is more about technique and skill.” Although the restaurants use the same kitchen, their operations are separate but parallel. “Because the lines meet one another, I can keep an eye on both of them at once,” he said. “I can float back and forth where I am needed. I can expedite at Park Place if that is what is needed or jump on the line at Browning’s.”

Anoosh Shariat, an owner and executive chef, said Denham boasts a unique combination of cooking and business skills.“First of all there is his talent as a chef and his positive attitude,” Shariat said.

“Then there is his knowledge of management and his focus on consistency. Jay has great mobility. He brings skills in different areas.”

Denham grew up in Maysville, Kentucky, where he learned his love for cooking by helping his mother and grandmother cook. He got his formal training at the Johnson & Wales culinary academy in Rhode Island. After graduation, he moved to Lexington, where he studied business and economics at the University of Kentucky.

Denham said the transition from the culinary arts to finance was a conscious career move. “I always wanted to have my own operation,” he explained. “I wanted to understand how all aspects of how a restaurant operated, from cooking to purchasing.”

Denham worked as a sous chef at A la Lucie in Lexington while he studied at UK. He left there for his first stint at the Oakroom. After that the jobs kept coming as Denham’s management skills made him stand out in the corporate world. He worked at the Marriott in downtown Louisville before being transferred to the Marriott Vanderbilt in Nashville, where he ran kitchen operations for the newly built hotel. Then came Chicago, and finally his return to Louisville.

Denham admits there was a little culture shock in moving from the corporate world to a locally owned restaurant. “There are different standards with a corporate hotel, different guidelines

jay denham |

you have to abide by,” he said.“Here I am able to deal one-on-one with local farmers and with local producers.”

This allows Denham to get a little bit more experimental with his menus. Chef Shariat is a vegetarian, and his vegetarian dishes have a loyal following. Denham said this crowd has brought out a different side of his own cooking.

“There are a lot more flavors with vegetable dishes because you can put in different components,” Denham said. “There is even a wide spectrum of people who want vegetable dishes.

You have vegans who don’t eat anything that comes from an animal. Then you have vegetarians that will eat cheese. We try to please everyone.”

Denham also enjoys organizing special theme dinners at Park Place on Main. For a recent Australian wine tasting, he ordered Aboriginal fruits and herbs to incorporate in the meals. “It is a change of pace,” he said. “It helps keeps things exciting.”

With such an attitude, Chef Shariat says, Denham has a promising career.“Young chefs like Jay are the hope of the industry,” Shariat said. “When it comes time to pass on the torch, they are going to have to run with it. I’m looking forward to the future.”

Park Place Sous Chef Jay Denham (left) and Chef Anoosh Shariat.

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Oakroom Sous Chef Duane R.S. Nutter’s grilled line-caught wild salmon with orzo pasta, lemon-grilled calamari, zucchini and a salsify purÊe.

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duane nutter OAKROOM Duane Nutter’s two great passions are comedy and cooking. After years of going back and forth between these callings, he was finally able to combine them. As a Peanut Ambassador on the 2001 National Peanut Tour, Nutter traveled around the country making dishes that feature America’s favorite legume, seasoning his peanut patter with plenty of laugh lines.

“Some people like to smoke cigarettes, I like to tell jokes,” Nutter said of his stint as a spokesman for the National Peanut Board. “I like to talk on the microphone. I got to do that and cook at the same time. I enjoyed myself.”

Now Nutter’s comic escapades are limited to occasional visits to the Comedy Caravan, where so far he has just been an observer, although he says he might gravitate to the mike one of these days. For the past 21/2 years, Nutter has concentrated most of his energy on his job as chef de cuisine at the Seelbach Hotel’s Oakroom.

It was a close call, though. He was just about to move from cooking into comedy as a career when Oakroom Executive Chef Todd Richards called him about the job, Nutter said. “We saw this as an opportunity to go to the next level,” he said. “There are 48 five-star restaurants in the country and the Oakroom [which boasts the American Automobile Association’s “five diamond” rating] is the only one operated by African-Americans.”

Nutter, 32, was born in Louisiana and raised in Seattle. He and Richards, a Chicago native, met when they both worked under Chef Darryl Evans in Atlanta. Evans was the first AfricanAmerican member of the U.S. Culinary Olympic Team. In 1988, he won two individual gold medals and team gold and silver medals. He was twice voted “Culinarian of the Year” by the Greater Atlanta Chefs Association of the American Culinary Federation.

At the Four Seasons in Atlanta, Evans assembled a core group of eight chefs, including Nutter and Richards, into what an

Atlanta food critic dubbed a “Culinary Dream Team.” The sports reference—invoking the Olympics basketball “Dream Team”—is fitting since at 6 feet, 6 inches, with dreadlocks, Nutter is sometimes mistaken for a basketball player. On more than one occasion, Richards said, Oakroom customers have been surprised when they asked to speak to the chef and Nutter walked out.

“We sort of defy people’s expectations of how a kitchen is supposed to work,” Richards said. “After they get over the initial shock, we get to, ‘How do you guys come up with those flavors?’ What we do would be considered personality cuisine. We cook what we feel, not what people think we should cook. Even when we do something familiar we put a twist on it to make it stand out.”

For example, Richards said, consider Nutter’s take on traditional fish and chips. Rather than a simple piece of fried cod or whitefish with French fries, Nutter’s dish confounds expectations with walleye pike, pistachio aioli and fennel. “I put a potato wrap around the pike, and that is the chips part,” Nutter explained. “I want you to think something is simple and then after you eat it to realize it is complex. It is part of my personality. I have layers.”

Richards and Nutter operate as a team, constantly researching recipes and flavors. Nutter holds the title chef de cuisine, rather than sous chef, because his duties involve helping plan menus as well as producing dishes. “People who know us can tell which dishes are Todd’s and which dishes are Duane’s,” Richards said. “He could be running his own kitchen if he wanted to.”

Nutter said his personality clicks with Richards in the kitchen and outside it.

Oakroom Sous Chef Duane R.S. Nutter (left) and Chef Todd L. Richards.

“We’ve been cooking together, off and on, for 12 years,” he said. “What people don’t know is that I used to be his boss at the Ritz Carlton (in Palm Beach, Florida).”

Richards said he and Nutter are working on a new menu for the Oakroom that will add an Asian accent. They seem to be clicking, as AAA recently renewed the Oakroom’s 5-diamond rating, the seventh top-tier award for the restaurant and the third in a row for Nutter and Richards.

Although he has found happiness in the kitchen, Nutter still feels that urge to get up on stage and make people laugh.

That goes double since he learned that one of his early comedy partners, Finesse Mitchell, signed a deal to be on Saturday Night Live. “SNL, that is a $100,000 contract,” Nutter said with a laugh. “How could you not think about that?”

For now though, Duane Nutter does all his cutting up in the kitchen. F&D www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Summer 2006 47

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recipes top chef recipes

PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

Grillin’ with Flair

ancient cooking method remains a modern favorite

S

urely the most ancient of cooking techniques, grilling goes all the way back to the times when humans roasted fresh meat on sticks held over a fire. Our tools have improved over the millennia—cave people couldn’t run to Home Depot to pick up a Weber grill or gas grate. But the fundamentals … smoky flavor, crisp char and tender meat … are just as appetizing in the Jetsons era as they were for the Flintstones.

Most people think of grilling burgers and steaks, perhaps followed by chicken, pork chops and ribs, says Sullivan University Chef-Instructor Eugene Bell. With the possible exception of those wacky Australians who throw shrimps on the barbie, most of us don’t routinely slap fish or seafood on the grill.

But, says Bell, one of our Sullivan guest chefs for this issue, “Sometimes the best cooking ideas come from taking something familiar, reworking it and going at it from a new angle.” Bell offers an intriguing salad made by grilling gravlax (a classic Scandinavian cured salmon dish).Then, kicking the grilling up another notch, he

Chef David Moeller’s Veal Tenderloin Noisettes with Pommes Anna and Petit Parisienne Vegetables

48 Summer 2006 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

throws lettuces on the grill, adding a seductive smoky flavor to crisp romaine and bittersweet purple radicchio.

Sullivan Chef-Instructor David Moeller goes down a similar road with one of his dishes, a lobster-and-country-ham “hash” that he presents as a base for a sweet, grilled day-boat scallop. He says it will fare just about as well with any grilled seafood or fish.

Moeller’s other Top Chef dish places a grilled veal tenderloin at the center of an upscale dinner with Potatoes Anna and tiny vegetables. Bell counters with a grilled rack of lamb sauced with bold licorice flavors, presented as a fingerfood “meat lollipop.”

If you try these dishes at home, consider these tips from the chefs: Oil your fish or meat, to keep it from sticking to the grate.

Don’t overcook fish: It’s done when it starts to flake. And avoid those spectacular flare-ups: Black soot doesn’t enhance flavor, and scientists say it may be carcinogenic. Eat well, eat safe, as you grill with flair.

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Chef Eugene Bell’s Grilled Vodka Cured Salmon Salad

Chef Eugene Bell’s Licorice Lamb Lollipops with Baby Bok Choy

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Chef Eugene Bell, CSC

Grilled Vodka Cured Salmon Salad with Mustard Caper Aioli This recipe is an adaptation of a classic Scandinavian preparation called gravlax.

(MAKES 11/2 –2 POUNDS CURED SALMON) 1 red onion 1 /2 cup vodka 1 /2 cup kosher salt 6 tablespoons sugar 1 cup fresh dill, coarsely chopped 1 /2 teaspoon ground white pepper 11/2 to 2 pound salmon fillet, skinned and boned 1. Purée onion in a food processor, then strain through a fine mesh strainer or double layers of cheesecloth.

2. Pour the onion juice into a glass or stainless bowl. Dissolve vodka, salt and sugar in the juice and add dill and white pepper.

3. Place the salmon and marinade in a gallon zip-loc bag. Press out air and seal tightly, turning bag to coat. Lay the bag flat on a tray and top with another tray upon which you’ve placed 4 to 6 pounds of weight (such as cans of vegetables) to press flat. Place in refrigerator.

4. Refrigerate the salmon for 12-18 hours or until its flesh becomes firm to the touch.

Remove from the bag, rinse and dry.

For the salad (SERVES 2) 1 head romaine lettuce hearts 1 head of radicchio 2 tablespoons truffle butter Olive oil as needed Salt and white pepper Two 6-ounce portions vodka cured salmon (see recipe above) 1 /4 - 1/2 cup mustard caper aioli (see recipe below) 1. Split romaine hearts lengthwise and split radicchio from top to bottom, leaving the cores intact so the leaves will hold together. Generously brush lettuces with 50 Summer 2006 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

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olive oil and season with salt and white pepper.

2. Preheat grill, and brush its grate with oil to prevent sticking. Place salmon on grill, skin side up, and cook 4-6 minutes on one side; turn to other side and cook 3-5 minutes longer.

3. Place the romaine and radicchio on the grill, cut sides down, and cook 2-3 minutes.

The lettuces should remain crisp but wilt slightly and show grill marks.

4. Toss the grilled lettuces in a bowl with aioli to coat them well. Remove radicchio, cut out the core, and slice each half into four wedges. Remove romaine from the aioli and cut out its core.

5. Place 2-3 teaspoons of aioli on each plate, top with the radicchio wedges, romaine and salmon. Garnish with a Parmesan crisp, made by baking shredded Parmesan cheese with a little dill, salt and pepper on a silicon baking sheet at 375 degrees until it melts into a crisp round.

Wrap the bone ends tightly in small squares of aluminum foil to keep the bones from burning.

4. Gently simmer marinade until it is reduced and slightly thickened.

5. Preheat the grill and lightly oil its grate.

Cook the marinated lamb rack on the grill, fat side up, for 10-12 minutes. Turn and cook for another 5-8 minutes.

6. Slice the rack into chops and serve with licorice sauce. Chef Bell’s version is plated with a barley risotto and baby bok choy cabbage.

For the mustard caper aioli 1 egg yolk 3 tablespoons coarse Dijon mustard 4 teaspoons sugar 2 teaspoons capers, chopped 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar 1 tablespoon lemon juice (fresh squeezed) 6 ounces extra virgin olive oil 1 tablespoon fresh dill, minced

1. Combine all ingredients in a small nonreactive pot. Bring to a boil and reduce heat to a simmer; cook for 30 minutes or until figs are soft.

2. Remove star anise and ginger. Purée the remaining marinade in a food processor or blender.

1. In a small bowl, whisk together egg, mustard, sugar, capers and vinegar.

2. While whisking very rapidly, add the oil in a thin stream.The mixture will thicken to a mayonnaise-like consistency.

3. Whisk in lemon juice and dill. Refrigerate until needed.

Licorice Lamb Lollipops (SERVES 2) 1 rack New Zealand lamb 11/2 cups licorice marinade (recipe below) 1. Scrape all connective tissue away from the ends of the lamb bones, leaving a clean bone “handle.” Trim away any thick silver skin on the eye side of the chop.

2. Pour marinade into a container large enough to accommodate the rack of lamb.

Place rack in marinade, bones up, and refrigerate for 3-4 hours.

3. Remove rack, reserving the marinade.

For the licorice marinade 1 cup Sherry vinegar 1 cup Japanese rice wine vinegar 3 /4 cup brown sugar 6 dried Mission figs (stems removed) 6 whole star anise Two 2-inch pieces crystallized ginger (or a 1-inch piece of fresh ginger, cracked, plus 1/2 teaspoon sugar)

Chef David Moeller, CEC

Lobster, Corn and Country Ham Hash SERVES 12 2 teaspoons fresh butter 2 leeks 1 cup country ham, cut in small dice 4 ears corn, roasted and cut from cob 1 quart heavy cream 12 ounces lobster meat shelled and cut in small pieces 2 teaspoons white truffle butter Salt and white pepper to taste 12 fresh day-boat scallops 1. Carefully clean the leeks, discarding the tough green stems. Slice the cleaned white portion into a fine julienne.

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2. Melt the fresh butter in a sauté pan.

Sweat leeks on medium heat until tender.

3. Add the diced country ham and the corn and sauté. Add the heavy cream and cook to reduce to a thin sauce.

4. Just before service, add lobster meat to warm through. Swirl in truffle-scented butter and season with salt and white pepper to finish.

5. Plate each serving with a grilled dayboat scallop.

Veal Tenderloin Noisettes with Pommes Anna and Parisienne Vegetables SERVES 1 3-ounce noisette of veal tenderloin Salt and pepper 3 ounces Petit Parisienne vegetables 3 ounces Pommes Anna 1 tablespoon butter 2 ounces red-wine glacé de veau 1 tablespoon red pepper-tomato jam 1. Blanch the vegetables by simmering them briefly; then “shock” them under cold water to stop the cooking.

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2. Preheat the grill to a high heat. Season the veal noisette with salt and pepper, and grill each side for 21/2-3 minutes.

3. Reheat the Pommes Anna (recipe to follow) on grill until hot and place them on a plate; set the veal noisette on the potatoes.

4. Blanch Parisienne vegetables in advance (can hold for up to 24 hours). Reheat on grill and place them around the potatoes.

5. Chef Moeller finishes this dish with a red-wine glacé and a dollop of roasted pepper and tomato jam.

For the Pommes Anna Lyonnaise: 2 ounces clarified butter 1 pound fingerling potatoes (or baking potatoes) sliced paper-thin Salt and pepper 1 onion, cut into julienne strips and sautéed until caramelized Fresh thyme, minced 1. Heat the butter slightly in a non-stick sauté pan.

2. Carefully layer the potato slices into the pan, arranging them in a tight circle. Season to taste with the salt and pepper.

3. Place another tight layer of potato slices on top of the first layer, then top this layer with a little caramelized onion.

4. Continue in the same way with another two or three layers of slices. Lightly brown the potatoes on the bottom, then carefully flip the entire assembly and brown the other side.

5. Remove the Anna to a rack on a sheet tray, then reheat on grill until hot when ready to serve.

For the roasted pepper and tomato jam: 2 red bell peppers, roasted, peeled, seeded and cut into 1/4-inch dice.

2 tablespoons olive oil 4 Roma tomatoes, seeded and diced 1 /4 cup granulated sugar (or to taste) 2 /3 cup Champagne vinegar (or to taste) 1. Lightly sauté the diced peppers in a little olive oil, then add tomatoes.

2. Add the vinegar and sugar, a little at a time, tasting until you get a balanced sweet-and-sour effect.

3. Reduce to the consistency of a chutney.

Chill and reserve. F&D

Chef Moeller’s Lobster, Corn and Country Ham Hash

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CUISINE STYLES

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ALPHABETICAL INDEX

dining guide

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ALL RESTAURANTS LISTED ALPHABETICALLY, FOLLOWED BY THE PAGE NUMBER OF ITS REVIEW, IT’S CUISINE STYLE, AND THE CORRESPONDING MAP NUMBER(S). [ ] DENOTES UNMAPPED MULTIPLE LOCATIONS.

RESTAURANT

PAGE #

AFRICAN 73 ASIAN/CHINESE 73 ASIAN/FILIPINO 75 ASIAN/JAPANESE 75 ASIAN/KOREAN 76 ASIAN/THAI 76 ASIAN/VIETNAMESE 77 BAR & GRILL 71 BARBECUE 70 BISTRO/CONTEMPORARY 60 CAFÉS 6 1 CAFETERIAS 67 CAJUN/CREOLE 79 CARIBBEAN/CUBAN 79 CASUAL DINING 63 COFFEE HOUSE 81 DESSERTS/BAKERY 81 ENTERTAINMENT DINING 67 EUROPEAN/BOSNIAN 77 EUROPEAN/GERMAN 77 EUROPEAN/IRISH 77 EUROPEAN/ITALIAN 77 EUROPEAN/SPANISH 78 FINE DINING 57 HOME STYLE/SOUTHERN 66 INDIAN 78 MEXICAN 79 MICROBREWERIES 73 MIDDLE EASTERN 79 PIZZA 67 SANDWICH/DELI 69 SEAFOOD 62 SOUTHWEST/TEX MEX 81 STEAKHOUSE 63 UPSCALE CASUAL 58 52 Summer 2006 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE

MAP #

#1 Asian Buffet 73 Asian/Chinese 2 19th Green Pub & Grill 71 Bar & Grill 16 211 Clover Lane 57 Fine Dining 3 610 Magnolia 57 Fine Dining 1 A Little Peach Café 2 61 Cafés A Nice Restaurant 63 Casual Dining 14, 16 A Taste of China 73 Asian/Chinese 1 Al Watan 79 Middle Eastern 4 Alameda 81 Southwest/Tex Mex 2 Alley Cat Café 61 Cafés 9 Alley Cats 77 European/Italian 2 Amazing Grace Deli 69 Sandwich/Deli 2 American Pizza 67 Pizza 11 Amici´ 77 European/Italian 1 Angelina’s Café 77 European/Italian 5 Angilo’s Pizza 67 Pizza 13 Angio’s Restaurant 67 Pizza 4 Ann’s by the River 67 Cafeterias 16 Annie Café 77 Asian/Vietnamese 12 Annie’s Pizza 67 Pizza 1, 13 Another Place 69 Sandwich/Deli 1 Anytimes 63 Casual Dining 7 Applebee’s 63 Casual Dining [9] Appleby’s Café & Wine Cellar 61 Cafés 16 Arirang 76 Asian/Korean 9 Arni’s Pizza 67 Pizza 14 Aroma Café 61 Cafés 14 Artemisia 58 Upscale Casual 1 Asian Buffet 73 Asian/Chinese 4, 14, 15 Asiatique 58 Upscale Casual 2 Atomic Saucer 81 Coffee House 1 Atrium Café 60 Bistro/Contemporary 5 August Moon 73 Asian/Chinese 2 Austin’s 58 Upscale Casual 7 Avalon 58 Upscale Casual 2 Aver’s Gourmet Pizza 67 Pizza 6 Azalea 58 Upscale Casual 7 Babby’s Steakhouse 63 Steakhouse 16 Backyard Burger 69 Sandwich/Deli 6 Bahama Breeze 79 Caribbean/Cuban 3 Bake’s Barbeque 70 Barbecue 13 The Bakery 81 Desserts/Bakery 4 Bamboo House 73 Asian/Chinese 12 Bank Shot Billiards 69 Sandwich/Deli 1 Barbara Lee’s Kitchen 66 Home Style/Southern 2 Baxter Station 60 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Bazos Mexican Grill 79 Mexican 3 Bean Street Café 81 Coffee House 14 Bearno’s Pizza 67 Pizza [12] Beef O’Brady’s 71 Bar & Grill 8, 9, 12, 14 Behar Café 77 European/Bosnian 12 Bendoya Sushi Bar 75 Asian/Japanese 1 Benedict’s Garden Café 61 Cafés 2 Bentley’s 64 Casual Dining 1 Big Dave’s Outpost 71 Bar & Grill 2 Big Hopp’s 64 Casual Dining 1 Big Mama’s Soul Kitchen 66 Home Style/Southern 1 Bistro 301 60 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Bistro New Albany 60 Bistro/Contemporary 14 Blimpie’s Subs 69 Sandwich/Deli 2, 4 BLU Mediterranean Grille 58 Upscale Casual 1 Blue Dog Bakery 61 Cafés 2 Blue Mule Sports Café 71 Bar & Grill 6 Bluegrass Bistro 60 Bistro/Contemporary 4 Bluegrass Brewing Co. 73 Microbreweries 1, 3 Bluegrass Café 61 Cafés 4 Bonefish Grill 62 Seafood 5 Bootleg Barbecue Co. 70 Barbecue 11, 12 Bourbon Bros. BBQ 71 Barbecue 2, 16 Bourbons Bistro 60 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Brandon’s Bar-B-Que 71 Barbecue 8 Bravo!

58 Upscale Casual 3 Breadworks 81 Desserts/Bakery 2, 7, 9 Brendans 77 European/Irish 3 Bristol Bar & Grille 58 Upscale Casual 1, 2, 5, 10 Brownie’s Grille & Bar 71 Bar & Grill 5 Browning’s Brewery 73 Microbreweries 1 Bruno’s Pizzeria 68 Pizza 14 Buca Di Beppo 77 European/Italian 6 Buck’s 57 Fine Dining 1 Buckhead Mountain Grill 64 Casual Dining 4, 5, 12, 16 Buffalo Crossing 67 Entertainment Dining 6 Buffalo Madison Coffee Co. 81 Coffee House 1, 15

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Buffalo Wild Wings 72 Bulldog Café 61 Burko’s New York 77 The Butterfly Garden Café 61 C.A.P.P.P.’s Deli 69 Café 360 79 The Café at the Antique Mall 61 Café Emilie 58 Café Fraiche 61 Café J 61 Café Kilimanjaro 73 Café Lou Lou 60 Café Magnolia 64 Café Metro 57 Café Mimosa 77 Caffe Classico 81 Cajun Kitchen 79 California Pizza Kitchen 64 Camille’s Sidewalk Café 61 Cancun Mexican Restaurant 80 Captain’s Quarters 64 Cardinal Hall of Fame Café 64 Carolina Shrimp & Seafood 62 Carolyn’s 66 Carrabba’s Italian Grille 78 Champions Grill 64 Champion’s Sports Rest. 72 Chatter’s Bar & Grill 72 Check’s Café 66 Cheddar Box Café 61 Cheddar’s Casual Café 64 Cheesecake Factory 58 Chez Seneba African 73 Chicago Gyro 69 Chick Inn 64 The Chicken House 66 Chicken King 66 Chili’s 64 China 1 73 China Buffet 73 China Garden 74 China Inn 74 China King 74 China Sea Buffet 74 Chinatown 74 Chinese Chef 74 Chinese Express 74 Chinese Restaurant 74 Chong Garden 74 Chopsticks 74 Chopsticks House 74 Chris’ Place 64 Chung King 74 Ciano’s 69 Cici’s 68 City Café 61 City Wok 74 Clark Boy Bar-B-Que 71 Clarksville Seafood 62 Cleo’s Coffee 81 Clifton’s Pizza 68 Close-Knit Café 81 Club Grotto 58 Coach Lamp 58 Coco’s Bakery 81 Coffee Crossing 81 Coffee Pot Café 81 Coffee Treat Café 81 Come Back Inn 78 Corner Café 58 Cottage Café 66 Cottage Inn 66 Coys’ 64 Cravings a la Carte 67 Cribstone Pub 72 Crystal Chinese 74 Cumberland Brews 73 Cunningham’s 64 Cutting Board Café 62 Cyclers Café 62 Danielle’s 58 Danish Express 69 Dannny Mac’s Pasta & Pizza 68 Day’s Espresso 81 DBL Shotz 81 De La Torre’s 78 Del Frisco’s 63 Delta Restaurant 72 Derby Café 62 Derby Dinner Playhouse 67 Desserts By Helen 81 Devino’s 69 Diamante 60

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Bar & Grill 2,3, 6, 8, 9, 13 Cafés 12 European/Italian 16 Cafés 2 Sandwich/Deli 3 Middle Eastern 2 Cafés 1 Upscale Casual 3 Cafés 7 Cafés 3 African 1 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Casual Dining 1 Fine Dining 2 Asian/Vietnamese 2 Coffee House 2 Cajun/Creole 12 Casual Dining 5 Cafés 6 Mexican 4 Casual Dining 10 Casual Dining 12 Seafood 3 Home Style/Southern 13 European/Italian 5 Casual Dining 16 Bar & Grill 1 Bar & Grill 6 Home Style/Southern 1 Cafés 3, 9 Casual Dining 8, 15 Upscale Casual 3 African 12 Sandwich/Deli 2 Casual Dining 10 Home Style/Southern 14 Home Style/Southern 1 Casual Dining 4, 5, 12 Asian/Chinese 3 Asian/Chinese 15 Asian/Chinese 12 Asian/Chinese 1 Asian/Chinese 6, 14 Asian/Chinese 9 Asian/Chinese 3, 12 Asian/Chinese 1 Asian/Chinese 13 Asian/Chinese 12 Asian/Chinese 13 Asian/Chinese 1 Asian/Chinese 1 Casual Dining 6 Asian/Chinese 1 Sandwich/Deli 9 Pizza 4, 14 Cafés 1, 2 Asian/Chinese 1 Barbecue 13 Seafood 15 Coffee House 14 Pizza 2 Coffee House 3 Upscale Casual 2 Upscale Casual 1 Desserts/Bakery 12 Coffee House 9, 14 Coffee House 1 Coffee House 1 European/Italian 1, 16 Upscale Casual 5 Home Style/Southern 9 Home Style/Southern 1 Casual Dining 12 Cafeterias 1 Bar & Grill 2 Asian/Chinese 1 Microbreweries 2 Casual Dining 1, 7 Cafés 8 Cafés 2 Upscale/Casual 2 Sandwich/Deli 3 Pizza 2 Coffee House 2 Coffee House 16 European/Spanish 2 Steakhouse 3 Bar & Grill 1 Cafés 12 Entertainment Dining 16 Desserts/Bakery 2, 10 Sandwich/Deli 1 Bistro/Contemporary 2

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Diamond Pub & Billiards Diefenbach Café Dillon’s Steakhouse Dinner Is Done Dino’s Down to Lunch Ditto’s Grill Dizzy Whizz Drive-In Djuli Dmitri’s Deli D’Nalley’s Restaurant Domino’s Pizza Don Pablos Dooley’s Bagels Double Dragon Double Dragon II Double Dragon 8 Double Dragon 9 Double Dragon Buffet Dragon Garden Duke’s Grille & Bar Dutch’s Tavern Dynasty Buffet Eastern House Eggroll Machine El Caporal El Mundo El Nopal El Nopalito El Paso El Rey Mexican El Rodeo Mexican El Tarasco El Toro Resaurante Mexicano Emperor of China Empress of China The English Grill Equus Erika’s German Rest.

Ermin’s Bakery & Café Ernesto’s Euro Market Eva Mae’s Expressions of You Famous Dave’s Bar-B-Que Fast Break Pizza Fat Jimmy’s Fat Tony’s Pizza Federal Hill Feed Bag Deli Ferd Grisanti Fiesta Time Mexican Grill Fifth Quarter Finley’s BBQ Fire Fresh Bar B Q First Wok The Fish House The Fishery The Fishery Station Flabby’s Schnitzelburg The Flagship Flanigans Ale House Fork in the Road Fountain Room Four King’s Café Fox & Hound Frank’s Steak House Frascelli’s N.Y. Deli Fratello’s Pizza Frolio’s Pizza Frontier Diner Fuji Steakhouse Garden Room Café Gasthaus Gavi’s Restaurant Genny’s Diner Germantown Café Gerstle’s Place Golden Buddha Golden Corral Golden Palace Golden Wall Goose Creek Diner Granville Inn Grape Leaf Grapevine Pantry Great American Grill Great Wall Great Wok Groove Café Gumbo A Go-Go Habaneros Hall’s Cafeteria Happy Dragon

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72 Bar & Grill 3 62 Cafés 15 63 Steakhouse 6 66 Home Style/Southern 6 69 Sandwich/Deli 1 60 Bistro/Contemporary 2 69 Sandwich/Deli 1 77 European/Bosnian 12 69 Sandwich/Deli 1 66 Home Style/Southern 1 68 Pizza [20] 80 Mexican 15 69 Sandwich/Deli 3, 5, 7, 9, 14 74 Asian/Chinese 2,3 74 Asian/Chinese 5, 8, 11, 12 74 Asian/Chinese 1 74 Asian/Chinese 6 74 Asian/Chinese 5 74 Asian/Chinese 2 64 Bar & Grill 7 72 Bar & Grill 3 74 Asian/Chinese 7 74 Asian/Chinese 13 74 Asian/Chinese 2 80 Mexican 4,6,12,15 80 Mexican 2 80 Mexican 6, 8, 12 80 Mexican 2, 4, 11 80 Mexican 16 80 Mexican 4 80 Mexican 13 80 Mexican 3, 5, 7, 12 80 Mexican 6 74 Asian/Chinese 7 74 Asian/Chinese 4 57 Fine Dining 1 57 Fine Dining 3 77 European/German 6 62 Cafés 1, 10, 14 80 Mexican 3, 5, 6, 12 69 Sandwich/Deli 8 64 Casual Dining 16 81 Coffee House 7 71 Barbecue 6, 15 68 Pizza 8 68 Pizza 1, 2, 5, 9 68 Pizza 6 62 Cafés 14 69 Sandwich/Deli 3 78 European/Italian 6 80 Mexican 8 63 Steakhouse 12 71 Barbecue 1 71 Barbecue 1, 4, 5, 9, 11, 13 74 Asian/Chinese 13 62 Seafood 2 62 Seafood 3 62 Seafood 11 72 Bar & Grill 1 57 Fine Dining 1 72 Bar & Grill 2 66 Home Style/Southern 13 64 Casual Dining 1 72 Bar & Grill 4 72 Bar & Grill 3 63 Steakhouse 16 69 Sandwich/Deli 7 68 Pizza 16 68 Pizza 12 66 Home Style/Southern 13 75 Asian/Japanese 8 62 Cafés 1 77 European/German 7 64 Casual Dining 1 66 Home Style/Southern 2 62 Cafés 1 72 Bar & Grill 3 74 Asian/Chinese 12 66 Home Style/Southern 4,12,15 74 Asian/Chinese 13 74 Asian/Chinese 12 66 Home Style/Southern 8 72 Bar & Grill 1 79 Middle Eastern 2 62 Cafés 9 72 Bar & Grill 12 74 Asian/Chinese 2 74 Asian/Chinese 1 62 Cafés 15 79 Cajun/Creole 2, 6 80 Mexican 15 67 Cafeterias 2 74 Asian/Chinese 1 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Summer 2006 53

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60 Hard Rock Café Harper’s Restaurant 60 Havana Rumba 79 Hazelwood Restaurant 66 Heady’z 69 Heavenly Ham 69 Heine Brothers Coffee 81 Heitzman Bakery & Deli 81 Herman’s Delicatessen 69 Highland Coffee Co. 81 Hill Street Fish Fry 62 Hitching Post Inn 72 Hobknobb Roasting Co. 81 Hometown Buffet 66 Hometown Pizza 68 Honeybaked Café 70 Hong Kong Chinese 74 Hong Kong Fast Food 74 Hoops Grill and Sports Bar 72 Hooters 64 Hot Dog Heaven 70 Howl at the Moon 67 Ichiban Samurai 75 Indi’s Restaurant 66 India Palace 78 Intermezzo American Café 58 The Irish Rover 77 Iroquois Pizza 68 Islamorada Fish Co. 62 J. Alexander’s 58 J. Graham’s Café 62 J. Harrods 58 Jack Fry’s 59 Jack’s Lounge 61 Jade Palace 74 Jake’s & Mr. G’s 72 Jane’s Cafeteria 67 Jarfi’s Bistro 59 Jasmine 74 Java Brewing Co. 81 Jay’s Cafeteria 67 Jazz Factory 61 Jeff Ruby’s Steakhouse 63 Jennica’s Café & Wine Bar 62 Jersey Mike’s Subs 70 Jersey’s Café 72 Jessie’s Restaurant 66 Jillian’s 67 Jimbo’s BBQ 71 Jimmy and Richie’s 72 Jimmy John’s Sub Shop 70 Jimmy’s on the River 64 Jockamo’s Pizza Pub 68 Joe Huber Restaurant 67 Joe Muggs 81 Joe’s Crab Shack 62 Joe’s O.K. Bayou 79 Joe’s Older Than Dirt 64 John E’s 59 JoJo’s Fish Market 62 Jolly Rogers 64 JP’s Pub & Grub 72 Juanita’s Burger Boy 70 Jucy’s Smokehouse 71 Juke Box 64 Jumbo Buffet 74 Kaelin’s Restaurant 64 Karma Café 64 Kashmir Indian 78 Kayrouz Café 62 Kern’s Korner 64 Kim’s Asian Grille 76 Kimis Asian Bistro 75 King Wok 74 King Buffet 74 Kings Fast Food 66 King’s Fried Chicken 66 Kingfish 62 Kobe Japanese Steak 75 Koreana II 76 KT’s 59 Kunz’s 57 KY Taco 80 L&N Wine Bar and Bistro 61 La Bamba 80 La Bodega 78 La Herradura 80 La Monarca 80 La Peche II 61 La Perla del Pacifico 80 La Rosita Taqueria 80 La Tapatia 80 Le Relais 57

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Bistro/Contemporary 1 Bistro/Contemporary 5 Caribbean/Cuban 3 Home Style/Southern 13 Sandwich/Deli 2 Sandwich/Deli 14 Coffee House 2, 3 Desserts/Bakery 5 Sandwich/Deli 3 Coffee House 1, 2 Seafood 1 Bar & Grill 11 Coffee House 14 Home Style/South. 6,8,13,15 Pizza 7, 9, 13 Sandwich/Deli 3, 11, 15 Asian/Chinese 14 Asian/Chinese 12 Bar & Grill 8, 12 Casual Dining 3,12,13,15,16 Sandwich/Deli 7 Entertainment Dining 1 Asian/Japanese 6 Home Style/Southern 1,3,12 Indian 5 Upscale Casual 1 European/Irish 2, 7 Pizza 13 Casual Dining 15 Upscale Casual 3 Cafés 1 Upscale Casual 3 Upscale Casual 2 Bistro/Contemporary 3 Asian/Chinese 7 Bar & Grill 5 Cafeterias 4 Upscale Casual 1 Asian/Chinese 9 Coffee House 1, 2, 9, 10 Cafeterias 1 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Steakhouse 1 Cafés 1 Sandwich/Deli 5, 6, 8 Bar & Grill 15 Home Style/Southern 13 Entertainment Dining 2 Barbecue 12 Bar & Grill 5 Sandwich/Deli 3 Casual Dining 16 Pizza 1 Entertainment Dining 14 Coffee House 3, 8 Seafood 1 Cajun/Creole 6, 14 Casual Dining 5 Upscale Casual 4 Seafood 4 Casual Dining 16 Bar & Grill 11 Sandwich/Deli 1 Barbecue 5 Casual Dining 14 Asian/Chinese 6 Casual Dining 2 Casual Dining 2 Indian 2 Cafés 3 Casual Dining 2 Asian/Korean 1 Asian/Japanese 6 Asian/Chinese 3 Asian/Chinese 6 Home Style/Southern 13 Home Style/Southern 1 Seafood 6, 7, 16 Asian/Japanese 16 Asian/Korean 12 Upscale Casual 2 Fine Dining 1 Mexican 11 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Mexican 2 European/Spanish 2 Mexican 15 Mexican 11 Bistro/Contemporary 7 Mexican 8 Mexican 14 Mexican 2 Fine Dining 4

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Lee’s Korean 76 Legend’s 64 Lemongrass Café 77 The Lighthouse 72 Lilly’s 57 Limestone 59 Ling Ling 74 Little Caesar’s Pizza 68 Little Chef 70 Liu’s Garden 74 Logan’s Roadhouse 63 Logos Coffee House 81 Lolitas Tacos Inc. 80 Lone Star Steakhouse 63 Longhorn Steakhouse 63 Longino’s 66 Lonnie’s Taste Chicago 70 Los Aztecas 80 Los Indios Mexicano 80 Lotsa Pasta 70 Louisville Pizza Co. 68 Lucky House Buffet 74 Lucky Strike Lanes / Felt 67 Luigi’s 78 Lunch Today 70 Lynn’s Paradise Café 65 Ma Zerellas 68 MacVitte’s 72 Mai’s Thai Restaurant 76 Maido Essential Japanese 75 Main Eatery 70 Main Menu 65 Maker’s Mark Lounge 59 Manchu Wok 74 Manhattan Grill 65 Marcus’ Ribs By The Slab 71 Marimba Mexican Rest 80 Mark’s Feed Store 71 Marrakech 79 Martini Italian Bistro 78 Master’s International 81 Masterson’s 65 Max & Erma’s 65 Mazzoni’s Oyster Café 62 McAlister’s Deli 70 Melillo’s 77 The Melting Pot 59 Meridian Café 62 Mexican Fiesta 80 Mexico Tipico 80 Michael Murphy’s 72 Mike Linnig’s 62 Mitchell’s Fish Market 62 Moe’s Southwest Grill 81 Molly Malone’s 77 The Monkey Wrench 65 Morris Deli & Catering 70 Morton’s of Chicago 63 Mr. Gattis 68 Mr. Lou’s 66 Mr. Z’s Kitchen 62 My Favorite Muffin 81 My Old KY Dinner Train 67 Nancy’s Bagel Grounds 70 Napa River Grill 59 Neil’s Place 65 Nero’s 59 New Direction Bar & Grill 72 New World Buffet 74 New York Capri Pizza 68 Nios 61 Nord’s Brown Bag Deli 70 North End Café 62 O’Charley’s 65 O’Dolly’s 66 O’Shea’s Irish Pub 77 The Oakroom 57 Old Chicago Pasta & Pizza 65 Old Louisville Coffee House81 Old Spaghetti Factory 78 Old Stone Inn 59 Ole Hickory Pit BBQ 71 The Olive Garden 78 Olive’s on Fourth 66 Ollie’s Trolley 70 Omar’s Gyro 79 On the Border 81 On The River Dining 65 Onion Rest.Tea House 75 Oriental House 75 Oriental Star 75 Osaka Sushi Bar 75 Oscar’s Bar & Grill 72

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Asian/Korean 12 Casual Dining 14 Asian/Vietnamese 2, 3, 9 Bar & Grill 16 Fine Dining 2 Upscale Casual 5 Asian/Chinese 5 Pizza 6, 11, 12 Sandwich/Deli 14 Asian/Chinese 9 Steakhouse 3, 13, 15 Coffee House 2 Mexican 12 Steakhouse 5 Steakhouse 6 Home Style/Southern 13 Sandwich/Deli 3 Mexican 1, 6, 7, 10 Mexican 14 Sandwich/Deli 3 Pizza 6 Asian/Chinese 4 Entertainment Dining 1 European/Italian 1 Sandwich/Deli 16 Casual Dining 2 Pizza 14, 15 Bar & Grill 14 Asian/Thai 16 Asian/Japanese 2 Sandwich/Deli 1 Casual Dining 14 Upscale Casual 1 Asian/Chinese 5 Casual Dining 1 Barbecue 1 Mexican 2 Barbecue 2, 9, 13, 15 Middle Eastern 2 European/Italian 8 Coffee House 11 Casual Dining 1 Casual Dining 6, 8 Seafood 4 Sandwich/Deli 5, 6, 7, 11, 15 European/Italian 1 Upscale Casual 6 Cafés 3 Mexican 11 Mexican 9, 13 Bar & Grill 1 Seafood 13 Seafood 8 Southwest/Tex Mex 3, 6, 9, 15 European/Irish 2 Casual Dining 2 Sandwich/Deli 2 Steakhouse 1 Pizza 1, 4, 5, 12, 13 Home Style/Southern 13 Cafés 1 Desserts/Bakery 4, 5 Entertainment Dining 12 Sandwich/Deli 2 Upscale Casual 3 Casual Dining 14 Upscale Casual 14 Bar & Grill 8 Asian/Chinese 8 Pizza 15 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Sandwich/Deli 1 Cafés 2 Casual Dining 3,6,8,12,13,15 Home Style/Southern 13 European/Irish 2 Fine Dining 1 Casual Dining 6 Coffee House 1 European/Italian 1 Upscale Casual 6 Barbecue 11 European/Italian 6 Home Style/Southern 1 Sandwich/Deli 1 Middle Eastern 2 Southwest/Tex Mex 8 Casual Dining 7 Asian/Chinese 14 Asian/Chinese 3 Asian/Chinese 12 Asian/Japanese 2 Bar & Grill 1

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Otto’s Café 65 Outback Steakhouse 63 P. Nuts Sports Bar & Grill 72 P. F. Chang’s China Bistro 59 Pa Pa Murphy’s Pizza 68 Palermo Viejo 78 Panda Chinese 75 Panera Bread Co. 70 Papa Johns Pizza 68 Park Place Restaurant 57 Pat’s Steak House 63 The Patron 59 Paul’s Fruit Market 70 Peking City 75 Penn Station 70 Pepper Shaker Bar-B-Q 71 Perkfection 81 Pesto’s Italian 78 Piccadilly Cafeteria 67 Picnicaters BBQ 71 Pie in the Sky 68 Pig and a Peppermint 62 Pit Stop Bar-B-Que 71 Pita Delights 79 Pizza Box 68 Pizza By The Guy 68 Pizza Hut 68 Pizza King 68 Pizza Place 68 Plehn’s Bakery 81 Ponderosa Steakhouse 63 Porcini 78 Portico 57 Prado’s Pizza 68 Primo 78 Proof On Main 57 Prospect Fish Market 63 Pub Louisville 65 Puerto Vallarta 80 Qdoba Mexican Grill 80 Queen of Sheba 73 Queue Café 62 Quick Wok 75 Quizno’s Subs 70 Rafferty’s of Louisville 65 Ramsi’s Café 61 Ranch House 65 Raw Sushi Lounge 75 Ray Parrella’s 78 Red Cheetah Lounge 59 Red Robin Gourmet Burgers 65 Red Star Tavern 59 Rich O’s Public House 73 Rick’s Ferrari Grille 59 Rockwall Bistro 59 Rocky’s Italian Grill 78 Romano’s Macaroni Grill 78 Rosticeria Luna 80 Royal Garden 75 Rubbie’s Bar-B-Que 71 Ruby Tuesday 65 The Rudyard Kipling 65 Rumors Raw Oyster Bar 63 Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse 63 Ryan’s Steakhouse 63 Saddle Ridge Saloon 72 Saffron’s 79 Saffron’s Buffet 79 Safier Mediterranean Deli 79 Saint’s 72 Sakura Blue 75 Sala Thai 76 Salsarita’s Fresh Cantina 81 Sam’s Food & Spirits 65 Santa Fe Grill 80 Sapporo Japanese Grill 76 Sari Sari Exotic Filipino Cuisine 75 Schlotzsky’s Deli 70 Scotty’s Ribs 71 Sesame Chinese 75 Seviche A Latin Restaurant 57 Shady Lane Café 70 Shalimar Indian 79 Shane’s 65 Shanghai Restaurant 75 Shah’s Mongolian Grill 75 Shenanigan’s Irish Grille 77 Shiraz Mediterranean Grill 79 Shogun 76 Shoney’s 65 Sichuan Garden 75 Sister Bean’s 81 Skyline Chili 65

MAP #

Casual Dining 1 Steakhouse 3, 8, 11, 12, 15 Bar & Grill 6 Upscale Casual 5 Pizza 3, 8, 9, 11, 12, 15 European/Spanish 2 Asian/Chinese 10 Sandwich/Deli 3, 6, 8, 15 Pizza [30] Fine Dining 1 Steakhouse 2 Upscale Casual 3 Sandwich/Deli 3, 4, 7, 9 Asian/Chinese 8 Sandwich/Deli [14] Barbecue 12 Coffee House 16 European/Italian 1 Cafeterias 5, 6 Barbecue 1 Pizza 6 Cafés 10 Barbecue 1 Middle Eastern 1 Pizza 8 Pizza 5 Pizza [15] Pizza 14, 16 Pizza 4 Desserts/Bakery 3 Steakhouse 7 European/Italian 2 Fine Dining 14 Pizza 9 European/Italian 1 Fine Dining 1 Seafood 10 Casual Dining 1 Mexican 14, 16 Mexican 2, 3, 5, 6, 8, 15 African 4 Cafés 6 Asian/Chinese 1 Sandwich/Deli [17] Casual Dining 3, 8 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Casual Dining 14 Asian/Japanese 1 European/Italian 2 Upscale Casual 1 Casual Dining 8 Upscale Casual 1 Microbreweries 14 Upscale Casual 3 Upscale Casual 14 European/Italian 8, 16 European/Italian 5 Mexican 12 Asian/Chinese 11, 12, 13 Barbecue 12 Casual Dining 3, 6 Casual Dining 1 Seafood 9 Steakhouse 3 Steakhouse 11, 12, 13, 15 Bar & Grill 1 Middle Eastern 1 Middle Eastern 1 Middle Eastern 1 Bar & Grill 3 Asian/Japanese 3 Asian/Thai 6 Southwest/Tex Mex 3 Casual Dining 14 Mexican 12 Asian/Japanese 2, 9 Asian/Filipino 2 Sandwich/Deli 8, 9, 12 Barbecue 9 Asian/Chinese 5 Fine Dining 2 Sandwich/Deli 7 Indian 6 Casual Dining 16 Asian/Chinese 1 Asian/Chinese 6 European/Irish 2 Coffee House 2 Asian/Japanese 6, 8 Casual Dining 2, 6, 12 Asian/Chinese 6 Coffee House 13 Casual Dining 1, 2, 3, 6, 13

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Smokey Bones BBQ 71 Barbecue 6 Snappy Tomato 68 Pizza [7] Sol Aztecas 80 Mexican 2 Soupy’s 70 Sandwich/Deli 4, 6 , 8 , 1 3 South Side Inn 67 Cafeterias 14 Spaghetti Shop 78 European/Italian 11, 14 Spinelli’s Pizzeria 68 Pizza 2 Sports Page Grill 72 Bar & Grill 6 Sportstime Pizza 69 Pizza 14 Stan’s Fish Sandwich 63 Seafood 3 Star Cruises 67 Entertainment Dining 16 Starbucks Coffee 81 Coffee House [27] Starving Artist Café 70 Sandwich/Deli 5 Steak N Shake 65 Casual Dining 4,6,8,12,13,15 Steinert’s Grill & Pub 72 Bar & Grill 14 Stevens & Stevens 70 Sandwich/Deli 2 Steve-O’s Italian Kitchen 78 European/Italian 7 Stoney River 63 Steakhouse 8 Stratto’s 78 European/Italian 15 Strawberry Patch Deli 70 Sandwich/Deli 9 Stumler Rest. & Orchard 67 Entertainment Dining 14 Sub Station II 70 Sandwich/Deli 12 Sully’s Saloon 72 Bar & Grill 1 Sunergos Coffee & Roastery 81 Coffee House 1 Sweet ‘N’ Savory Café 62 Cafés 2 Sweet Peas Southern 61 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Sweet Surrender 81 Desserts/Bakery 2 The Sweet Tooth 81 Desserts/Bakery 3 Tacqueria La Mexicana 81 Mexican 12 Tailgaters Sports Bar 73 Bar & Grill 12 Taste of Jamaica 79 Carribian/Cuban 2 Tequila Mexican Rest.

81 Mexican 12 Teranga African Rest.

73 African 4 Texas Roadhouse 63 Steakhouse 2, 12, 13, 15 TGI Friday’s 65 Casual Dining 1, 6, 7 Thai Café 76 Asian/Thai 7 Thai Siam 77 Asian/Thai 4 Thai Smile 5 77 Asian/Thai 12 Thai Taste 77 Asian/Thai 2 The Back Door 73 Bar & Grill 2 The Bodega 70 Sandwich/Deli 1 Theater Square Deli 70 Sandwich/Deli 1 Third and Main Café 62 Cafés 1 Third Avenue Café 62 Cafés 1 Thyme Café 62 Cafés 1 Tijuana Flats Burrito Co. 81 Southwest/Tex Mex 7, 8 Tokyo Japanese 76 Asian/Japanese 7 Toll Bridge Inn 66 Home Style/Southern 14 Tologono 61 Bistro/Contemporary 3 Tommy Lancaster 65 Casual Dining 14 Tony Boombozz 69 Pizza 2, 3 Tony Boombozz Pizza & Vino 69 Pizza 8 Tony Impellizeri’s Italian 69 Pizza 5 Tony Roma’s 71 Barbecue 5 Tran’s Japanese Steakhouse76 Asian/Japanese 14 Trellis Restaurant 65 Casual Dining 1 Tucker’s 65 Casual Dining 14 Tumbleweed 81 Southwest/Tex Mex 1,2,4, 6,8,12,13,14,15,16 Twice-Told Café 65 Casual Dining 7 Twig & Leaf Restaurant 66 Casual Dining 2 Uno Chicago Bar & Grill 69 Pizza 11 Uptown Café 59 Upscale Casual 2 Vic’s Café 73 Bar & Grill 1 Vietnam Kitchen 77 Asian/Vietnamese 12 The Villa Buffet 66 Casual Dining 14 Vince Staten’s BBQ 71 Barbecue 10 Vincenzo’s 57 Fine Dining 1 Vito’s Pizzeria 69 Pizza 12 Volare 78 European/Italian 2 W.W. Cousin’s 70 Sandwich/Deli 3 Wagner’s Pharmacy 67 Home Style/Southern 12 Wall Street Deli 70 Sandwich/Deli 1 Webb’s Market 67 Home Style/Southern 1 Westport General Store 66 Casual Dining 7 Whitney’s Diner 62 Cafés 11 Wicks Pizza 69 Pizza 2, 8, 9, 13 Wild Oats Market 70 Sandwich/Deli 3 Willie’s Italian 78 European/Italian 13 Windy City Pizzeria 69 Pizza 1 Wings N Things 73 Bar & Grill 8 Wings To Go 69 Pizza 14 Winston’s 57 Fine Dining 4 Wok Express 75 Asian/Chinese 1 Wonton Express 75 Asian/Chinese 4 Woodford Reserve Grille 73 Bar & Grill 12 Yaching’s East West Cuisine 59 Upscale Casual 1 Yang Kee Noodle 75 Asian/Chinese 5 Yen Ching 75 Asian/Chinese 6 You-Carryout-A 75 Asian/Chinese 14, 15, 16 Zap’s 70 Sandwich/Deli 1 ZaZoo’s 73 Bar & Grill 3 Zen Garden 77 Asian/Vietnamese 2 Z’s Oyster Bar 58 Fine Dining 5 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Summer 2006 55

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$ = Average Entrée under $8 $$ = Average Entrée $9–$14 $$$ = Average Entrée $15–$20 $$$$ = Average Entrée $21 & up

2 11 CL OVER LANE RES TAURANT 2 11 Clo ver Ln., 896-9570. Owner and manager Andy Smith continues to burnish the upscale atmosphere and creative cuisine of this s tylish spot in St. Matthews. It c onsistently r anks among the city’ s top tables. $$$$ p f 610 MAGNOLIA 610 Magnolia A ve., 636-0783. Chef Edward L ee’s dis tinctive, eclectic tak e on cr eative international cookery places his personal signatur e on e very dish at this elegantly c omfortable Old Louisville restaurant. For more than a quart er of a century it has r emained one of the city’ s fines t places to dine. $$$$ p f BUCK’S 42 5 W . Ormsb y A ve., 6 37-52 84. E clectic Victorian with t ongue-slightly-in-cheek, pleasant and not o verstated, this fine dining r oom in the Mayflower Apartments c ombines a w elcoming attitude with high-quality f are and atmospher e that’s frankly stunning. $$$ p e CAFÉ METRO 1700 Bar dstown Rd., 458-4830 . A local tr adition that helped es tablish Bar dstown Road as one of the city’ s “r estaurant r ows” a generation ago , Café Metr o r emains an upscale landmark and c ontinues t o please Metr o’s lo yal fans. $$$ p ENGLISH GRILL 335 W . Br oadway (T he Br own Hotel), 583-1234. This elegant oak-paneled dining room is the same do wntown landmark that our grandparents enjo yed. Chef Joe Cas tro wins applause f or cr eative, in ventive f are that mak es the Brown a major pla yer in the do wntown-hotel dining sweepstakes. $$$$ p EQUUS 122 Sears Ave., 897-9721. Veteran Chef Dean Corbett has quietly built one of the city’ s mos t honored r estaurants in this simple whit e-brick building in St. Matthe ws, Quietly elegant surroundings, splendid servic e and firs t-rate “progressive American cuisine” have won applause from publications like Southern Living. $$$$ p

RED = Advertiser

p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

PARK PLACE RESTAURANT 401 E. Main St. (Slugger Field), 515-0172. With Anoosh Shariat as e xecutive chef and Jerry Slat er as GM, this signatur e restaurant in L ouisville Slugger Field c ombines culinary cr eativity and c omfort in an upscale venue that’s second to none. $$$$ p f e PORTICO Caesars Indiana Casino, Elizabeth, IN, 888766-2648. High-end luxury and s tyle bring a tas te of Las V egas t o Metr o L ouisville in this pric ey, white-tablecloth eatery located on the gr ounds of Caesars Indiana. You don’t have to be a high r oller to enjoy its luxury fare and service. $$$$ p PROOF ON MAIN 702 W. Main St., 2 17 -6360. T his stylish spot in the posh 2 1C Museum Hot el at Seventh & Main has earned a firm plac e in the t op tier of local eat eries. Gener al Manager Cas sandra Hobbic and Ex ecutive Chef Michael P aley preside

ALL RESTAURANTS ARE LOCATED IN LOUISVILLE (unless noted otherwise) All phone numbers are local calls. When out of the area, use area code 502 for all listings except Indiana, use 812. over a modern American bill of f are with dis tinct Tuscan influences. $$$ p SEVICHE A LA TIN RES TAURANT 1538 Bar dstown Rd., 4 73-8560. Chef Anthon y Lamas has been winning national pr aise f or his cr eative c ookery, frequently appearing in national f ood media and making a r egular tr ek t o James Bear d House in NYC. Se viche, as the name implies, specializ es in the Latino seaf ood dish “ cooked” in tart citrus juices. $$$$ p f VINCENZO’S 150 S. Fifth St., 580- 1350. Known f or its suave professional service, high-end Northern Italian fare and many trademark dishes finished at tableside, V incenzo’s c ontinues t o hold its o wn against growing downtown competition. $$$$ p WINSTON’S RES TAURANT 3101 Bar dstown Rd., (Sullivan University Campus), 456-0980. Culinary

Louisville’s Best Kept Secret.

“Equus is not only one of the city’s best, it is absolutely one of the best.”

Susan Reigler, The Courier-Journal, October 2004

Equus has been preparing American-regional cuisine with Kentucky accents for 20 years.

WHERE HAVE YOU BEEN?

THE FLAGSHIP 140 N. Fourth St., 589-5200. $$$$ e KUNZ’S FOURTH AND MARKET 115 S. F ourth St., 585-5555. One of the oldes t r estaurants in Louisville, K unz’s original German ac cent has muted with time , and it no longer r anks among the city’ s t op tables, but it s till pr ovides oldfashioned, hearty steaks and seafood. $$$ p LE RELAIS 2 817 T aylorsville Rd. (Bo wman Field), 451-9020. Another longstanding contender for top rank in L ouisville’s r estaurant r ace, this art dec o spot makes s tylish use of a his toric 19 2 0s airport building to present elegant modern French cuisine from Chef Daniel Stage. $$$$ p f e LILLY’S 1147 Bar dstown Rd., 451-044 7. As a r epeat invitee t o Manhattan’ s James Bear d House , Chef Kathy Cary shar es her K entucky-accented cooking skills with the r est of the nation. Lilly’ s c ombines sophisticated s tyle and Cary’ s cr eative c ookery t o keep this landmark r estaurant one of L ouisville’s dining favorites. $$$$ p e THE OAKROOM 500 S. Fourth St. (Seelbach Hotel), 585-32 00. Chef de Cuisine T odd Richar ds and staff ar e kicking things up y et another not ch at this elegant hot el dining r oom, adding a le vel of innovation while carrying on its long-held f ourstar rating. $$$$ p

EQUUS RESTAURANT/ JACK’S LOUNGE 1 2 2 S E A R S AV E N U E • S T. M AT T H E W S • ( 5 0 2 ) 8 9 7 - 9 7 2 1 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Summer 2006 57

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arts students at Sullivan University staff this finedining r estaurant on the campus, under the guiding hand of Chef John Cas tro. Several of the city’s top chefs got their training here. Open Fri. Sun. Only. Reservations suggested. $$$$ p

AZALEA 3612 Br ownsboro Rd., 895-54 93. Another of the city’ s longtime f avorites, Azalea delights with cr eative American and fusion-s tyle f are whether y ou dine in or enjo y the open air of its shady, brick-walled patio. $$$ p f

Z’S O YSTER BAR & S TEAKHOUSE 101 Whittingt on Pkwy., 429-8000. This exciting spot brings a level of fine dining to the suburbs that makes it stand out in the chain-rich en virons outside the W atterson.

Splendid steaks, extraordinary seafood, fine service and clubby ambience give Z’s the tools to dominate in the steakhouse competition. $$$$ p

BLU IT ALIAN MEDITERRANEAN GRILLE 2 80 W .

Jefferson St. (L ouisville Marriott), 6 71-42 85. BL U offers upscale Italian Medit erranean cuisine in striking surr oundings highlight ed b y Me xican limestone and Italian marble . F or those seeking a relaxing libation and a quick er snack, the Bar at BLU offers a more casual alternative. $$$ p

ARTEMISIA 62 0 E. Mark et St., 583-4 177. As the bustling arts sc ene in this eas t-of-downtown blossoms, Art emisia ev olves with it. A f avorite dinner venue in a gallery setting, Art emisia offers fare t o please both v egetarians and omniv ores, plus an attr active alfr esco dining option in its enclosed courtyard. $$$ p f e ASIATIQUE 1767 Bardstown Rd., 451-2749. Chef Peng Looi has w on diners’ r aves and man y culinary awards during Asiatique’ s long local t enure. His innovative Asian-fusion cuisine has w on him invitations to New York City’s James Bear d house and many local accolades. $$$ p f AUSTIN’S 4950 US 42, 423- 1990. Big, crowded and bistro-style, with hea vy emphasis on the bar , this suburban watering hole taps the same v ein as the national franchise booze ’n’ beef genre, and does so well, offering satisfying dining at a f air price. $$ p AVALON 1314 Bardstown Rd., 454-5336. This stylish spot on Bar dstown R oad off ers a fr esh and creative bill of f are that pr esents American and international cuisine with a dis tinct Southern accent. Extra points for the popular outdoor patio that’s open for a good part of the y ear. $$$ p f

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BRAVO! 2 06 Bullitt Ln. ( Oxmoor C enter), 32 6-04 91.

Management describes the Ohio-based Br avo! chain as “ a fun, whit e-tablecloth casual eat ery … positioned betw een the fine-dining and casual chains.” A R oman-ruin setting houses abundant Italian-American style fare. We particularly enjo yed appetizers and first-rate grilled meats. $$ p f BRISTOL BAR & GRILLE 132 1 Bardstown Rd., 4561702, 300 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 426-0627, 614 W. Main St., 582 - 1995, 6051 T imber Ridge Dr ., 2 9 2 2585, 2035 S. Third St., 634-2723. The Bristol has been a s tar on L ouisville’s bis tro sc ene sinc e it helped kick off the Bar dstown R oad r estaurant renaissance some 25 years ago. Old standards like the gr een-chile w on t ons and the Bris tol Bur ger are always reliable, and the wine pr ogram is exceptional. $$ p f

menu of California, Southwestern and Pacific Rim fare plus full bar servic e. $$ p CLUB GROTTO 2116 Bardstown Rd., 459-5 275. Chef Michael New’s international bistro dishes and Club Grotto’s stylish and r omantically dim en virons add up to a c omfortable, familiar Highlands spot that ’s worth making a special effort to remember. $$$ p COACH LAMP RESTAURANT 751 Vine St., 583-9165.

This urban neighborhood tavern serves “pub grub” for lunch, but C oach Lamp turns int o a serious dining room Wednesday through Saturday evenings with dishes fr om Chef Jer ome Pope that r ange from down-home favorites to pastas. $$$ CORNER CAFÉ 9307 New Lagrange Rd., 426-8119 .

There’s nothing fancy or overly elegant about this suburban neighborhood old favorite, but the term “eclectic” fits it well. $$ p DANIELLE’S 2 2 06 Fr ankfort A ve., 89 3-7677. T his new Clift on spot is c ool and sophis ticated, featuring fresh American cuisine and an extensive all-American wine list. $$$ p INTERMEZZO AMERICAN CAFÉ & CABARET 316 W. Main St., 584- 12 65. T he elegant r estaurant space in A ctor’s T heatre of L ouisville’s his toric building features casual American bistro fare in an attractive dining room, plus nightly entertainment in a cabaret style. $$$ p e

CAFÉ EMILIE 3939 Shelbyville Rd., 719-9717. Tucked into a c orner of a tas teful furnitur e shop , Café Emilie is w orth a visit. T his French-accented East End eat ery off ers casual f are at lunch and a bit more formal dining in the evening. $$ f

J. ALEXANDER’S RESTAURANT 102 Oxmoor Court, 339-2 2 06. T his c omfortably upscale v enue, a Nashville-based chain, f eatures “ contemporary American” f are with a br oad menu that r anges from burgers and sandwiches to such upscale eats as grilled tuna or a Ne w York strip steak. $$$ p

CHEESECAKE FACTORY 5000 Shelbyville Rd., 8973933. “Cheesecak e” is its name , and this glitzy shopping-mall eatery offers a wide variety of rich, calorific choic es t o eat in or tak e out. It ’s mor e than just cheesecake, though, with a wide-ranging

J. HARROD’S 7507 Upper Riv er Rd., 2 2 8-4555. J .

Harrod’s is discr eetly tas teful and pleasantly comfortable. The food is competitive in both quality and value. It’s an appealing, upscale blend of bis tro fare and old-fashioned country cooking. $$$ p

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JACK FR Y’S 1007 Bar dstown Rd., 45 2 -92 44. If y ou want t o give visiting friends a one-shot sample of Louisville’s urban dining s tyle, ther e’s no bett er destination than Jack Fry’ s. T his popular spot is always pack ed. It sa ves jus t a whiff of the r affish aspect of its 1960s-er a predecessor, a local saloon, but upgr ades it with cr eative American f are in a bistro setting. $$$$ p e JARFI’S BIS TRO 501 W . Main St., 589-5060 . T he affable Jeff Jarfi is the epon ymous hos t of this sharp, stylish venue in the K entucky Center for the Arts. Eclectic cuisine—including sushi!—plus popular lunch and pr e-theater buff ets ar e attracting happy crowds. $$$ p JOHN E’S 3708 Bar dstown Rd., 456- 1111. T his old Louisville tradition earns a warm recommendation.

From its c ozy setting in a his toric Buechel home to its do wn-home servic e t o its good Americanstyle fare at reasonable prices. $$$$ p e KT’S 2 300 L exington Rd., 458-8888. It ’s har d t o argue with suc cess, and K T’s has earned its popularity by providing good American-style bar and bistro chow for a price that’s fair. $$ p f LIMESTONE 10001 Forest Green Blvd., 426-7477. To succeed in the r estaurant busines s, k eep doing what you do best. Chefs Jim Gerhardt and Michael Cunha have followed this simple formula with considerable suc cess at Limes tone, tr ansporting the concept that br ought them int ernational culinary kudos at the Seelbach’s Oakroom with good effect in these modern quarters in the East End. $$$ p MAKER’S MARK BOURBON HOUSE & LOUNGE Fourth Str eet Liv e, 568-9009 . Under a lic ensing agreement with the management of Fourth Street Live, K entucky’s Mak er’s Mark Dis tillery lends its name and its signatur e r ed-wax image t o this stylish r estaurant and lounge in the booming downtown entertainment complex. A magis terial bar f eatures mor e than 60 Bourbons, and the menu offers traditional Kentucky fare. $$$ p f

MELTING POT 2045 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-3125.

This Florida-based chain brings back pleasant memories of fondue parties of the ’70s. If you can melt it and dip things in it, the Melting Pot probably has it on the menu. $$$ p NAPA RIVER GRILL 3938 Dupont Circle, 893-0141.

This s tylish St. Matthe ws venue spans Calif ornia and the Pacific Rim, earning its reputation as one of the city’ s leading r estaurants on the basis of Innovative wine-country cuisine, excellent service and a fine California-focused wine collection. $$$ pf NERO’S Caesars Indiana Casino , Elizabeth, IN, 888766-2648. Joining Portic o as the sec ond high-end, fine-dining r estaurant at Caesar ’s Indiana, Ner o’s complements Portic o’s all- American s teak-andseafood theme with a br oader int ernational menu that ranges from Tuscan fettuccini to Memphis BBQ pork ribs. $$$ p OLD S TONE INN 6905 Shelbyville Rd., Simpson ville, KY, (502) 722-8200. Under the management of Paul Crump, f ormerly of Por cini, this his toric s tone building (east of L ouisville in Simpson ville) carries on the r eputation that has made the c omfortably nostalgic r estaurant popular f or mor e than a generation. $$$ p f THE P ATRON 3400 Fr ankfort A ve., 896- 1661.

Viewed from the perspective of an e vening meal, the P atron off ers some of the bes t c ooking in town. Chef Amber McC ool off ers a dinner menu that changes fr equently, based on what ’s available and perhaps the chef’s whim. It’s not just adventurous but civilized. $ P.F. CHANG’S CHINA BIS TRO 912 0 Shelb yville Rd., 32 7-7707. T his Ariz ona-based, Chinese themed restaurant off ers a loud, happ y sc ene with Chinese-style dishes. T o its cr edit, e verything is prepared well and service is consistently fine. $$ p

RAW SUSHI L OUNGE 52 0 S. F ourth St., 585-5880 (see listing under Asian/Japanese) RED CHEET AH L OUNGE Fourth Str eet Liv e, 5890695. $$ p e RED S TAR T AVERN Fourth Str eet Liv e, 568-5656.

Billed as “a hip, contemporary version of the classic American ta vern,” this chain oper ation in the rehabilitated former Galleria features steaks, chops and seafood in an atmospher e that’s upscale and clubby, with an e xtensive bar as a k ey part of the action. $$$ p f RICK’S FERRARI GRILLE 3930 Chenoweth Ln., 8930106. Popular local restaurateur Rick Dissell is the amiable host at this St. Matthe ws restaurant that bears his name , and w e don’t mean “F errari.”

Excellent libations and upscale American f are make it a popular des tination. $$ p f e ROCKWALL BISTRO 3426 Paoli Pike, Floyds Knobs, IN., 948-1705. This stylish spot takes full advantage of an old r ock-quarry location in sc enic Flo yds Knobs t o off er an atmospheric eat ery, with a creative menu that f eatures a light L ouisiana accent, and an int eresting, affordable wine list. It’s well worth the trip acr oss the Ohio f or one of the area’s most enjoyable dining experiences. $$ p f UPTOWN CAFÉ 162 4 Bar dstown Rd., 458-42 12 .

Across the s treet and a s tep downscale from its partner, Café Metro, the Uptown Café (now a nonsmoking venue except f or the bar) off ers similar fare with a bit more of a bistro feel for quite a few bucks less. $$ p f YACHING’S EA ST WES T CUISINE 105 S. F ourth St., 585-4005. Yaching’s promises “an eclectic menu of contemporary Asian fusion cuisine.” It’s an attractive mix of Eas t and W est, sufficient t o give jus t about everyone something t o enjo y, r egardless of which compass point attracts your taste buds. $$$ p

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ATRIUM CAFÉ 9940 C orporate Campus Dr .

(Embassy Suit es), 42 6-9191. An eclectic bis tro atmosphere in the heart of the hotel. Specials run from their popular cr ab cakes and arr ay of pas ta dishes to a Reuben sandwich or fruit pie . $$ p BAXTER S TATION BAR & GRILL 12 01 P ayne St., 584-1635. T his c ozy spot looks a lot lik ea neighborhood saloon, but the eclectic menu and unique atmospher e tak e it a not ch upscale , and the weatherized patio is comfortable almost yearround. Take particular not e of an impr essive beer list to go with your meal. $$ p f BISTRO 301 301 W. Market St., 584-833 7. Formerly Dekes, this popular do wntown spot s tarted as a downtown bar, a favorite hangout for lawyers and the Courthouse crowd; renamed after an o wnership change, it has moved upscale and broadened its appeal with fine “ contemporary American cuisine” and service to match. $$$ p f BISTRO NEW ALBANY 148 E. Market St., New Albany, IN, (812 ) 94 9-52 2 7. T his r ecent and w elcome addition to downtown New Albany brings casual upscale gourmet dining t o the city’ s old do wntown, with high quality local meats, pr oduce and microbrewery beers. Extra credit, in season, for its inviting French Quarter-style patio. $$ f e BLUEGRASS BISTRO 3819 Bardstown Rd., 458-6 111.

Chefs Sc ott Schamel, f ormerly of the Br own Hotel, and Anthon y L orie bring a ne w, gourmetstyle menu t o this attr active spot in the Derb y City Antique Mall in Buechel (formerly Derby City Cafe). Open for lunch daily except Sunday. $ BOURBONS BIS TRO 2 2 55 Fr ankfort A ve., 8948838. Bourbon, K entucky’s tr aditional nectar , owns a plac e of honor in L ouisville eateries and watering holes that sho wcase its pleasur es.

Bourbons Bis tro c ombines a fine bar and comfortably upscale-casual restaurant featuring what mus t be the w orld’s mos t c omprehensive Bourbon list. The bill of fare is well-matched with the excellence of its libations. $$$ p f CAFÉ LOU LOU 1800 Frankfort Ave., 893-7776. Bright and bold and arts y, this Clift on neighborhood restaurant and pub off ers Chef Cla y W allace’s affordable edibles fr om wr aps and calz ones t o handmade pizzas among the best in town. $$ f DIAMANTE 2 2 80 Bar dstown Rd., 456- 1705. T his lovable spot mak es adaptiv e use of a 19 2 0s gasoline s tation c onverted int o a c ozy eat ery, where Chef Mik e Driskell off ers an eclectic bill of fare and tr endy libations. Open v ery lat e, it ’s a haven for night owls. $$ f DITTO’S GRILL 1114 Bardstown Rd., 581-912 9 . W ith fresh and gener ous portions, I lea ve s tuffed and happy e very time I visit this s tylish y et casual Highlands f avorite. Chef /Co-owner Domonic Serratore—a pioneer of the local dining sc ene— serves up fr esh and gener ous portions fr om a menu that offers an internationally eclectic bill of fare that r anges all o ver the map . Fr om K ansas City ribs and Ne w England cr ab cak es t o T hai chicken wings or Chinese burrit os. $$ p HARD ROCK CAFÉ Fourth Str eet Liv e, 568-2 2 0 2 .

Louisville’s Fourth Street Live opened with a bang amid hammering guitars and happy throngs as the city gained its first branch of this popular shrine t o rock with its giant neon guitar to show you the way.

The music sc ene is the dr aw, but y ou’ll ha ve no complaints about Har d Rock’s standard American cuisine. $$ p f e HARPER’S RESTAURANT 871 S. Hurs tbourne Pkwy., 42 5-2 900. Harper ’s dr aws a happ y cr owd of regulars with a lar ge bar and big menu that off ers a wide r ange of American-s tyle f are, with management that takes quality seriously. Gourmet pizzas and fine libations are a specialty. $$ p f 60 Summer 2006 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

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JACK’S L OUNGE 12 2 Sears A ve., 89 7-902 6. A sophisticated, elegant bar as sociated with the Equus restaurant next door, Jack’s offers a short but e xcellent menu f eaturing appetiz ers and light bit es, along with a drinks lis t be yond reproach. $ p JAZZ F ACTORY 815 W . Mark et St. ( Glassworks), 992 -32 42 . L ouisville’s r estored Glas sworks building mak es a natur al home f or this edgy , stylish venue for serious, live jazz. Chef Jeff Jarfi’s eclectic and inno vative f are off ers an e xtra incentive for a jazz-filled evening. $$ p e L&N WINE BAR AND BIS TRO 1765 Mellwood Ave., 897-0070. If you’re enthusiastic about good wine, you’re going to be excited about L&N. The fruit of the vine takes center stage in a v ast, fairly priced wine lis t and imposing Cruvinet dispenser , with over 100 wines available by the glass. Comfortable exposed-brick atmosphere and excellent bistro fare from Chef Rick Adams add to the draw. $$ p f LA PECHE II Holiday Manor Shopping C enter, 3397593. If y ou w ant t o enjo y much-honor ed Chef Kathy Cary’s imaginative cooking without pa ying the prices at Lilly’s, this sibling spot is the place to go. $$ f NIOS 917 Baxt er A ve., 456- 7080. Specializing in a selection of “small plates,” a concept akin to tapas or the similar Latino bocaditos, Nios hits a culinary home run in this his toric building that housed Jupiter Grill and later @mosphere. $$$ p f RAMSI’S CAFÉ ON THE W ORLD 12 93 Bar dstown Rd., 451-0700. Small, funk y and fun, this f avorite spot of the Highlands’ Gener ation X cr owd attracts f oodies of all ages with its friendly setting, r easonable pric es and w ell-prepared international cuisine. $$ f SWEET PEAS SOUTHERN 2350 Frankfort Ave., 8949091. Chris topher Seckman pr esides o ver this comfortable Cr escent Hill spot that f eatures

traditional Southern f are with a t ouch of cr eative innovation. $ p f TOLOGONO 3702 L exington Rd., 899-2 005. In an intriguing twist on takeout food, Tologono’s firstrate chefs will mak e you a gourmet-s tyle meal to take out ( or e ven ha ve deliv ered, within a reasonable radius of its St. Matthe ws venue) and enjoy in the c omfort of home . I’v e f ound the dishes fully competitive with local bistro fare, and more than competitive in price. $$

A LITTLE PEA CH CAFÉ 1860 Mellwood Ave., 2 387301. $ f e APPLEBY’S CAFÉ & WINE CELLAR 201 Spring St., Jeffersonville, IN, 2 83- 3663. Fine dining in a casual atmospher e. F are r anges fr om a wardwinning chili and the “Big St eve” burger at lunch to fine dining at night. T he recently added W ine Cellar offers the same fine fare and classy wine in a more casual atmosphere. $ f AROMA CAFÉ Caesars Indiana Casino , Elizabeth, IN, 888- 766-2 648. Gr ab a bit e bef ore hitting the casino . Sandwiches, salads, sides, c old beverages and coffee will fuel you for a night of entertainment. $ BENEDICT’S GARDEN CAFÉ 1519 Baxt er A ve., 479-7777. Small but welcoming, this tiny spot in a small shopping c enter jus t off Eas tern P arkway specializes in v egetarian f are, including such offbeat standards as a vegan “Philly cheesesteak” with ersatz meat and vegetarian cheese. $ f BLUE DOG BAKER Y AND CAFÉ 2 868 Fr ankfort Ave., 899-9800 . T his bak ery with its $50 ,000 Spanish wood-fired oven makes artisanal bread as good as you’ll find in the US, and competitive with the best in Eur ope. Its c omfortable, upscale café offers a short selection of tas ty dishes made t o show off the fine breads. $$ f

BLUEGRASS CAFÉ 32 55 Bar dstown Rd. ( Quality Inn), 454-0451. This casual family dining spot in a motel c omplex on Bar dstown off ers tr aditional favorites that r ange from the Hot Br own to fried chicken. A menu of fr eshly made soups, salads, appetizers and desserts serves the light diner. $ p BULLDOG CAFÉ 10619 W. Manslick Rd., 380-0600. $ f THE BUTTERFLY GARDEN CAFÉ 132 7 Bar dstown Rd., 456-4500. This tasteful little spot off ers teas and light er lunch f are in an attr active old-house setting. $ f THE CAFÉ A T THE L OUISVILLE ANTIQUE MALL 900 Goss Ave., 637-6869. One of the city’ s most attractive spots f or antique , this ca vernous old factory building off ers a similarly attr active plac e to catch lunch while you shop, offering a selection of competently made luncheon fare. $ CAFÉ FRAICHE 3642 Br ownsboro Rd., 894-89 2 9.

Cuisine from around the w orld is f eatured at this East End neighborhood café, f eaturing homemade soups, breads and a variety of entrées on a seasonally changing menu. $ CAFÉ J 3600 Dut chmans Ln. ( Jewish C ommunity Center), 459-0660. This authentic delicatessen in the Jewish Community Center offers fully k osher fare including homemade soups, salads and wideranging hot entrées. $ f CAMILLE’S SIDEWALK CAFÉ 2060 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 493-2005 $ f CHEDDAR BO X CAFÉ 12 12 1 Shelb yville Rd., 2 452622, 3909 Chenoweth Sq., 893-2324. Ladies who lunch oft en do so her e, lur ed b y an attr active selection of luncheon soups, salads and sandwiches .and desserts. $ f CITY CAFÉ 1907 S. F ourth St., 6 35-02 2 2 , 505 W .

Broadway, 589- 1797, 12 50 Bar dstown Rd., 4595600, 500 S. Pr eston St., 85 2 -5739. Chef Jim Henry, a long-time s tar in the city’ s culinary

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firmament, brings his cooking skills and insistence on fresh, quality ingr edients to these simple , but excellent, spots for lunch. $ f CUTTING BOARD CAFÉ 2929 Goose Creek Rd., 4239950. Having built a loyal clientele with well-made and cr eative casual f are in its original s torefront location, Cutting Boar d no w gr ows int o lar ger quarters (the former Hungry Pelican) nearby. Look for an e xpanded menu, t oo, including a selection of appetizers. $ CYCLERS CAFÉ 2295 Lexington Rd., 451-5152. Is it a bicycle shop or a r estaurant? Well, it ’s both. T his informal spot will sell y ou a firs t-rate sandwich, soup or salad or a tire for your bike—or the whole darn bike! $ f

MR. Z’S KITCHEN 869 S. Third St., 584-8504. It’s run by a friendly immigr ant f amily fr om Eas tern Europe, but the f ood is all- American at Mr . Z’ s Kitchen. It offers an appetizing option for a hearty diner-style meal. $ NORTH END CAFÉ 172 2 Fr ankfort A ve., 896-8 770.

This atmospheric Clift on spot in an artfully redesigned old shot gun house has bec ome one of the city’ s mos t popular spots, pr ompting a r ecent expansion and the addition of a full bar. The eclectic menu off ers diverse tapas and int eresting entrées, plus a bar gain-seeker’s wine lis t. It ’s an appealing, affordable place to dine. $ f PIG AND A PEPPERMINT 9521 US Hwy 42, 292-1245. $ f QUEUE CAFÉ 220 W. Main St. (LG&E Building), 583-0273. $

DERBY CAFÉ 704 C entral A ve. (K entucky Derb y Museum), 634-0858. Lunch serv ed year-round in the dining ar ea adjac ent t o the Derb y Museum with such regional favorites as meaty Burgoo, and the Hot Brown. $ f

ERMIN’S BAKER Y & CAFÉ 12 01 S. Firs t St., 6 356960, 723 S. F ourth St., 58 7-9390, 454 S. F ourth Ave., 585-5120, 9550 U.S. Hwy 42, 228-7210, 211 E. Main St., New Albany, IN, 941-8674. These popular bakeries attr act cr owds looking f or an enjo yable soup and sandwich lunch highlight ed by Frenchstyle breads and pastries. $

Celebrating 58 years as Louisville’s hometown favorite for top quality seafood and much, much more.

GARDEN ROOM CAFÉ 911 S. Br ook St., 62 5- 1900.

Historic Male High School, no w T he Spectrum Building, houses Gumb y’s G arden R oom Café, a casual American-s tyle r estaurant oper ated b y longtime local caterer Phyllis “Gumby” Cornwell. $ f

GRAPEVINE PANTRY & GIFT SHOP 11418 Old Main St., Middlet own, K Y, 2 45-1569. T he Middlet own Historic Dis trict is booming with s torefronts, restaurants and a laid back glimpse of the pas t.

The Gr apevine P antry off ers homemade soups, sandwiches and salads, cakes and pies. $ GROOVE CAFÉ 1882 Blackis ton Mill Rd., Clarks ville, IN, 949-3105. $ e J. GRAHAM’S CAFÉ & BAR 335 W. Broadway (The Brown Hot el), 583- 12 34. T he Br own’s casual café offers an alternative to the upscale English Grill. $ p JENICCA’S CAFÉ & WINE BAR 636 E. Mark et St., 587-872 0. A w orthy edition t o the booming arts district east of downtown, Jenicca’s is sophisticated and stylish, a fine c offee shop and casual wine bar with light fare and an upscale art-gallery vibe . $ f

THE FISHER Y 362 4 L exington Rd., 895- 1188. T he original fried-fish eatery in a neighborhood that ’s now awash with them, T he Fishery remains justly popular f or its quick, sizzling hot and aff ordable fish and seafood meals. $ f THE FISHERY STATION 5627 Outer Loop, 968-8363.

Family owned and f amily style dining with a wide net of seafood dinners and appetiz ers. Lunch and dinner menus also include such delicacies as fr og legs, shrimp and alligator. $ p

ISLAMORADA FISH CO. 951 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 218-5300. $$ p

THREE CONVENIENT LOCATIONS: On the River: 3021 Upper River Road ■ 895-0544 (Just east of Zorn Ave @ I-71)

601 W. Riverside ■ 284-3474 (On the Jeffersonville riverfront across from Louisville)

Around Town: 1610 Kentucky Mills Dr. ■ 240-0700 (Blankenbaker @ 1-64)

SWEET ‘N’ S AVORY CAFÉ 1574 Bar dstown Rd., 456-6566. Hearty brunch f are with a v egetarian accent mak es S weet ‘n’ Sa vory a popular destination for the Bardstown Road bunch. $ THIRD AND MAIN CAFÉ Building) 587-6171. $ f

2 2 0 W. Main St. (LG&E

THIRD AVENUE CAFÉ 1164 South Third St., 585-2233.

One of m y f avorite plac es f or a casual meal, this exceptionally pleasant neighborhood eat ery is attracting lo yal cr owds with e xcellent f are and a cozy setting that brings you back for more. $$ p f e

KAYROUZ CAFÉ 12 7 W iltshire Ave., 896-2 6 31. T hose who w ere saddened b y the los s of St. Matthe ws landmark J.P. Kayrouz will be delighted to learn that another K ayrouz gener ation is back in busines s, starting small in the tiny spot that once housed the original Tony Boombo zz. T hey’ve made good use of the spac e, off ering man y of the f amily’s old favorites in a stylishly renovated setting. $ f

WHITNEY’S DINER 5616 Bardstown Rd., 239-0919. $ f

MERIDIAN CAFÉ 112 Meridian A ve., 897-9703. This little lunch spot oc cupies a c ozy old house in St. Matthews. Servic e is c ompetent and polit e, the place is sparkling clean, and the luncheon-s tyle fare ranges from good to excellent. $

BONEFISH GRILL 657 S. Hurs tbourne Pk wy., 4 12 4666. T his fr anchise c oncept fr om the Florida-

62 Summer 2006 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

CLARKSVILLE SEAFOOD 916 Eas tern Blv d., Clarksville, IN, 2 83-8588. As the only surviving descendant of Louisville’s old Cape Codder chain, Clarksville Seafood upholds a long and honorable tradition. The menu is simple—fried fish and fried seafood, serv ed on paper tr ays—but it is consistently excellent and affordable. $

HILL STREET FISH FRY 111 E. Hill St., 636-3474. This Old Louisville tradition is small and eas y to miss, but it ’s worth the effort to get by. Its oversize fried whitefish sandwich is the flagship dish, but a v aried menu is also available. $ f

FEDERAL HILL 310 Pearl St., Ne w Albany IN, 9486646. $ f

GERMANTOWN CAFÉ 1053 Gos s A ve., 6 37-9412 .

One of the man y old-f ashioned, simple and welcoming bars serving pub grub in L ouisville’s old Germantown neighborhood is as good a spot as any for a hot burger and a cold beer. $ p f e

CAROLINA SHRIMP & SEAFOOD 392 2 W estport Rd., 894-8947. In an Eas t End neighborhood rich with seaf ood eat eries, Car olina off ers a tas ty option within w alking dis tance of do wntown St. Matthews. T his spartan little joint f eatures shellfish and c od, much of it healthfully s teamed, not fried, in an aff ordable family setting. $

THE FISH HOUSE 1310 W inter A ve., 568-2 99 3.

Louisville is as o verflowing as a w ell-stocked lake with fish-sandwich houses, and The Fish House is right up there with the best. Crisp breading laced with black pepper is the signatur e of Green River fried fish from Western Kentucky. $ f

BLUEGRASS BIS TRO 3819 Bar dstown Rd., 458-6 1111.

Chefs Scott Schamel, f ormerly of the Br own Hotel, and Anthon y L orie bring a ne w, gourmet-s tyle menu t o this attr active spot in the Derb y City Antique Mall in Buechel (formerly Derby City Café), open for lunch daily except Sunday. $ DIEFENBACH CAFÉ 12 8 S. Ne w Alban y St., Sellersburg IN, 246-0686. $$ p e

based Outback St eakhouse chain off ers impressive seafood in a c omfortable setting. Add Bonefish t o y our short lis t of suburban chain eateries that do the job right. $$$ p

THYME CAFÉ 711 S. T hird St., 58 7-0400. This spicy eclectic café serv es up big tas te with special tuna, ham and chick en entrées and sandwiches. Fr esh basil tomato soup with the BLT on grilled sourdough is a fast-rising favorite in the neighborhood. $

JOE’S CRAB SHA CK 131 Riv er Rd., 568- 1171. T he setting is bright, noisy and fun. But the food is the bottom line , and I’m pleased t o r eport that the seafood at Joe’s uniformly fresh and fine. $$ p f JOJO’S FISH MARKET 2 902 Bar dstown Rd., 4517100. This small Highlands shop , vacant since the closing of the short-lived Highland Fish Market, is frying fish again, with dec or and s tyle so little changed that they’re still using the same sign out front. Fried fish sandwiches, oversized fish tacos and other seafood fare are first-rate and fairly priced. $ KINGFISH RES TAURANT 302 1 Upper Riv er Rd., 895-0544, 1610 Kentucky Mills Dr., 240-0700, 601 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville, IN, 284-3474. Fried fish in a f amily dining setting has made this local chain a popular favorite for many years. Two of its properties—upper Riv er R oad and Riv erside Drive—boast river views. $$ p f MAZZONI’S O YSTER CAFÉ 2 804 Taylorsville Rd., 451-4436. A his tory that dat es t o 1884 mak es Mazzoni’s one of the city’ s longes t-running restaurant acts. It mo ved fr om do wntown t o the suburbs a gener ation ago , but k ept its his toric serving bar and its urban f eeling, with pub grub , cold beer and the famous rolled oyster. $ MIKE LINNIG’S 9308 Cane Run Rd., 9 37-1235. Mike Linnig’s has been dishing up tas ty fried fish and seafood at f amily pric es sinc e 19 2 5 and r emains immensely popular. There’s indoor seating and a bar, but the picnic grove with its giant shade trees makes Linnig’s a special place in season. $ f MITCHELL’S FISH MARKET 4031 Summit Plaza Dr ., 412 -1818. T he dec or of this upscale , C olumbusbased chain e vokes the f eeling of a lar ge fish market, with an open kit chen that offers views of chefs at w ork. Quality seaf ood and servic e has made this a popular des tination. $$$ p f

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PROSPECT FISH MARKET 952 1A US 42 , Pr ospect, 2 2 8-6962 . If y ou’re on the eas tern edge of the metropolitan ar ea, Pr ospect Fish Mark et off ers good, aff ordable fish in a pleasant shoppingcenter setting. $ RUMORS RESTAURANT & RAW BAR 12339 Shelbyville Rd., 2 45-0366. V isualize Hoot er’s without the scantily-clad waitresses, and you’ve drawn a bead on Rumor’s, the original L ouisville home of the buck etof-oysters and impressive raw bar. $$ p f STAN’S FISH S ANDWICH 372 3 L exington Rd., 8966600. T he fish is the thing at Stan’ s, wher e the owner is a perfectionist who won’t sell any but the freshest fish, perf ectly pr epared. I’v e ne ver had a better fish sandwich an ywhere. W atch f or daily specials that take advantage of fresh product. $ Z’S OYSTER BAR & STEAKHOUSE (see listing under Fine Dining)

BABBY’S STEAKHOUSE 108 S. Fourth St., Utica, IN., 2 88-2 411. T his independent-minded s teakhouse is one of the metr o ar ea’s bes t v alues f or e xpertly prepared steaks. They come in all the usual siz es and c onfigurations, but someone in the kit chen has definite opinions about seasoning and grilling.

The result is a distinctive approach that rewards a visit. $$ f DEL FRISC O’S 4107 Oechsli A ve., 89 7-7077. Onc e ranked among the city’ s t op s teakhouses, Del Frisco’s r emains s trong in its c ore c ompetency.

For deeply marbled, fork-tender prime steaks, it’s still hard to beat on quality points. $$$$ p DILLON’S STEAKHOUSE 2101 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy, 499-7106. Dillon’ s has a dis tinctly diff erent atmosphere fr om mor e pric ey s teakhouses, with its ski-lodge atmospher e in a his toric L ouisville home. It ranks among the most affordable quality steak dinners that the city has t o offer. $$ p FIFTH QUARTER STEAKHOUSE 1241 Durrett Ln., 3612363. The Fifth Quarter has that touch of class that evokes family nostalgia and romantic interludes. An attentive staff serves the sirloin y our way. Some of the city’ s bes t iv ory mas ters ar e at the piano t o enhance the dining experience. $$$ p f e FRANK’S S TEAK HOUSE 52 0 W . Se venth St., Jeffersonville IN, 2 83- 3383. A longtime north-ofthe-river favorite, this neighborhood s teak house is kno wn f or c omfort and hearty meals without pomp or circumstance. $$ p JEFF RUB Y’S S TEAKHOUSE 32 5 W. Main St., 5840102. Cincinnati restaurateur Jeff Ruby, who owns five upscale eateries in the upriver city and one at Indiana’s Belt erra Casino , no w hos ts this glitzy Louisville pr operty, an upscale s teak house that bears his name . Fine beef is the main dr aw, with seafood and even sushi as a plus. $$$$ p e LOGAN’S ROADHOUSE 5055 Shelbyville Rd., 89 33884, 5 2 2 9 Dixie Hw y., 448-05 77, 9 70 Hw y. 131, Clarksville, IN, 2 88-9 789. W ith mor e than 100 properties in 17 s tates, this Nash ville-based chain parlays peanut shells on the floor and s teaks on the table into a popular formula. $$ p LONE S TAR S TEAKHOUSE & S ALOON 340 Whittington Pkwy., 339-9495. Lone Star rises abo ve the median f or fr anchised chain es tablishments on the basis of popularity and s tyle and v ery friendly service, with dec ent grub amid T exas-style surroundings and country music. $$ p f LONGHORN S TEAKHOUSE 2 535 Hurs tbourne Ln., 671-5350. Or der y our sirloin on the flat-t op or pork chops on the char; also prime rib, baby back ribs and a c omplete line of chick en entrées. All dinners come with salad and potat o choice. $$ p MORTON’S 62 6 W. Main St., 584-042 1. T he steaks are as good as it gets, the atmospher e is elegant

without being s tuffy, and the servic e is outstanding. Mort on’s earns a solid thr ee s tars and r anks among the t op tier of L ouisville’s upscale dining choices. $$$$ p OUTBACK STEAK HOUSE 4621 Shelbyville Rd., 895432 9, 65 2 0 Signatur e Dr ., 964-8383, 94 98 Brownsboro Rd., 42 6-432 9 , 8101 Bar dstown Rd., 2 31-2 399, 142 0 P ark Plac e, Clarks ville, IN, 2 834329. The name sugges ts Australia, and so does the shtick at this popular national chain, but the food is pr etty much f amiliar American, and the fare goes be yond jus t s teak t o tak e in chick en, seafood and pasta. $$$ p PAT’S S TEAK HOUSE 2 437 Br ownsboro Rd., 8969234. A visit to Pat’s may not be exactly like a trip back to the ‘50s, but when I at e there last, I think I sa w Ozzie and Harriet. A local f avorite, its combination of quality beef and hospitality rank it among the best steak houses in town. Bring cash: No credit cards accepted. $$$$ p PONDEROSA S TEAKHOUSE 11470 S. Pr eston Hw y., 964-6117, 816 S. K Y 53, La Gr ange, K Y, 2 2 2 - 12 2 6.

Family-style dining with the r anch theme k ept alive with the open flame fr om the grills. An extensive buff et with hot and c old f oods, salads and desserts is also available. $ RUTH’S CHRIS STEAKHOUSE 6100 Dutchman’s Ln., 479-0026. The Robb Report magazine has declared Rolex the world’s best watch, Armani the best men’s suit, C ohiba the bes t cigar and Ruth’ s Chris the bes t r estaurant. It serv es an e xcellent steak in an atmosphere of elegance that will make you feel pampered, at a price to match. $$$$ p RYAN’S FAMILY S TEAKHOUSE 7405 Preston Hw y., 964-1748, 5338 Bardstown Rd., 491-1088, 4711 Dixie Hwy., 44 7-4781, 6 36 Eas tern Blv d., Clarks ville, IN, 282-8520. This popular North Carolina-based chain offers f amily dining with good v ariety: Its div erse and extensive buffet features over 150 items. $ STONEY RIVER LEGEND ARY STEAK 3900 Summit Plaza Dr ., 42 9-8944. St oney Riv er in the Springhurst shopping center is one of the chain’ s first properties outside its Georgia home. It draws big cr owds with its memor able s teaks and trimmings, with e xtra points f or friendly servic e and a comfortable atmosphere. $$$ p TEXAS ROADHOUSE Green Tree Mall, Clarksville, IN, 2 80-1103, 4406 Dixie Hw y. 448-0 705, 6460 Dutchman’s Pk wy., 89 7-5005, 332 2 Out er L oop, 962-7600. The spirit of the W est sets the theme for this popular s teak house . Salads, v egetables and br eads with hearty side dishes r ound out your meal options. This is family-style dining, with no tray sliding—service at your table. $$ p TUMBLEWEED SOUTHWES T GRILL (17 locations ) (see listing under Southwest/Tex Mex) Z’S OYSTER BAR & STEAKHOUSE (see listing under Fine Dining)

A NICE RESTAURANT 3105 Blackiston Mill Rd., New Albany IN, 945-4321, 2784 Meijer Dr., 280-9160. A Nice R estaurant, billed as “Ne w Alban y’s Finer Diner,” is, well, nice. This sunny corner shop in the Old Mill Shopping C enter specializes in br eakfast and lunch. T he fare is do wn-home and simple , at a price you can afford. $ ANYTIMES A T THE RAMAD A INN 1041 Z orn A ve., 897-5101. Serving dinners only , the spacious restaurant opens at 4 p .m. and begins serving appetizers, salads, entrées and des serts. A s teak dinner is billed as the specialty of the house . $$ p APPLEBEE’S (9 locations ) T his cheery national chain f eatures an eclectic as sortment of salads, steaks, ribs, poultry and pas ta as w ell as full bar service. It ’s as c onsistent as a c ookie cutt er, but competent execution makes it a good bargain for www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Summer 2006 63

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those whose tas tes run t o mainstream American cuisine. $$ p BENTLEY’S 12 0 W . Br oadway (Holida y Inn), 582 2 241. Enjoy a K entucky hot br own or the all- youcan-eat prime rib buff et on Saturday nights. Each day features a pasta dish, a hearty soup and salad bar, as well as favorites from the cutting board and grill. $$ p e BIG HOPP ’S 800 W. Market St., 589-6600 . A wide variety of family-style fare, from fettuccine alfredo to fried chick en, is dished up with friendly , welcoming servic e at this popular local spot, in the busy Glassworks district. $ p f BUCKHEAD MOUNT AIN GRILL 3008 Bar dstown Rd., 456-6680 , 4 112 Out er L oop, 966-5555, 10430 Shelbyville Rd., 2 45-6680, 7 07 W . Riv erside Dr ., Jeffersonville IN, 284-2919. Buckhead’s combination of mountain lodge atmospher e and Americanstyle f are mak e these popular des tinations. T he large menu features down-home staples like meat loaf, pot pies, steak, ribs, and lighter fare for warm weather dining. The view of Louisville’s skyline from the riverfront location is not to be missed. $$ p f CAFÉ MA GNOLIA 140 N. F ourth St. ( Galt House ), 589-52 00. T he Galt House’ s quick and casual second-floor dining alt ernative, this spacious venue—formerly the River Grille, offers a range of fare for guests on the go, from bacon and eggs to a late-night burger and fries. $$$ p CALIFORNIA PIZZA KITCHEN 7900 Shelbyville Rd. (Oxmoor C enter), 42 5-512 5. Calif ornia pizza became a tr end when f amous chefs ga ve this simple Italian f are a multi-ethnic spin with nontraditional Pacific Rim toppings. CPK successfully translates this trend for the mass market. $$ p f CAPTAIN’S QU ARTERS 5700 Captain’ s Quart ers Rd., 2 2 8- 1651. One of the city’ s mos t attr active eateries f or atmospher e, Captain’ s Quart ers matches the beautiful setting with quality bis trostyle f are that w on’t disappoint. Summer or winter, it’s a delightful place to dine. $$ p f e CARDINAL HALL OF F AME CAFÉ 2745 Crittenden Dr., 635-8686. This oversize eatery at Gate 4 of the Kentucky Fair & Exposition Center celebrates U of L sports with a “walk of fame” loaded with awards, photos, game balls and lots mor e Car dinal memorabilia. What? Y ou w ant f ood t oo? Sur e!

Casual American dining features everything from a “Cardinal Burger” to steaks and prime rib. $$ p CHAMPIONS GRILL 505 Marriott Dr . (Holiday Inn), Clarksville, IN., 2 83-44 11. Kno wn b y locals f or its Saturday night buff et of Ne w Y ork s trip, ribe ye and prime rib . Salads, sandwiches, soups and a kid-friendly menu round out the selection. $$ p e CHEDDAR’S CA SUAL CAFÉ 10403 Westport Rd., 339-5400, 1385 V eteran’s Pk wy., Clarks ville, IN, 280-9660. This popular Dallas-based chain, drawing big, hungry crowds with its lar ge bar and f amiliar “casual to upscale American” fare. $ p CHICK INN 632 5 Upper Riv er Rd., 2 2 8- 3646.

Louisville’s familiar Chick Inn moved into upgraded quarters after a fire several years ago, but regulars still call it the “new place.” The new place is just as comfy as the old (although non-smok ers beware), and the fried chicken is as good as it gets. $$ p f CHILI’S 421 S. Hurs tbourne Pkwy., 425-6800, 3623 Bardstown Rd., 301-8888; 11600 Ant onia W ay, 301-8181. More than just a place to chow down on baby back ribs, this national chain has a wide selection including f ajitas, bur gers, sandwiches and veggies. $ p CHRIS’ PLACE 10317 Watterson Trail, 267-9955. This fine old . farmhouse near the Jeff ersontown Town Square, long the home of Sir Chur chill’s, is open again with a do wn-home American theme replacing its predecessor’s British feel. $$ p f e COY’S 4041 Pr eston Hw y., 36 3-2 2 66. A change in management pr ompts a ne w name and spring 64 Summer 2006 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

cleaning f or the old, f amiliar L ongino’s Grill, but we’re counting on similar friendly service and oldfashioned comfort fare to maintain the popularity of this casual South End des tination. $$ p f CUNNINGHAM’S 630 S. F ourth St., 58 7-052 6, 301 Upper Riv er Rd., 2 2 8- 362 5. Carrying on int o its third c entury in modern quart ers that captur e much of the nostalgia of its history, Cunningham’s vends fine fish sandwiches and pub grub in this downtown location and in a sec ond eat ery on Harrods Creek. $ f DUKE’S GRILLE & BAR 4413. $$ p f

4004 G ardiner P t., 7 53-

EVA MAE’S 6313 Upper River Rd., 228-2882. $$ f e FOUNTAIN ROOM A T THE GAL T HOUSE 140 N. Fourth St., 589-5 2 00. T his c omfortable spac e features both buff et and menu dining. One pric e covers the fresh and hot buffet and salad bar. The menu oft en includes r egional and c ontemporary selections and daily chef specials. $ p GAVI’S RES TAURANT 2 2 2 S. Se venth St., 583-8183.

This f amily-owned eat ery has been ar ound f or decades. Standard casual American cuisine adds a few Rus sian-style specialties such as homemade borsht soup and beef Str oganoff. Daily lunch specials include lots of fresh vegetable dishes. $ HOOTERS 412 0 Dut chmans Ln., 895- 7100; 4 948 Dixie Hw y., 44 9-4194; 77 01 Pr eston Hw y., 9681606; 700 W. Riverside Dr., Jeff ersonville, IN, 2 189485; 94 1 Eas t Hw y. 131, Clarks ville, IN 2 84-9464.

Hooter’s may draw crowds with its long-s tanding reputation as a party sc ene, but you’ll stay for the food, an appetizing selection of soups, salads, seafood and more. Extra points for the company’s regular involvement in community causes. $ p f e JIMMY’S ON THE RIVER 100 W . Riv erside Dr ., Jeffersonville IN, 2 82 -2 500 . T he menu at this friendly bar and eat ery f eatures aff ordable bar food and munchies, but the f astidious ma y choose fr om the menu’ s “Light er Side .” Hearty meals at budget pric es and a s triking riv erside view. $ p f e JOE’S OLDER THAN DIRT 8131 New Lagrange Rd., 42 6-2 074. Going s trong aft er man y y ears in this Lyndon location, Joe’ s has gr adually grown from a little house t o a spr awling c omplex of indoor and out door tables with liv e music man y evenings. Excellent barbecue is a specialty, and so is ice-cold beer. $ p e JOLLY ROGERS 850 Main St., Charles town, IN, 2566366. $$ f JUKE BO X Highlander Point Shopping C Floyds Knobs, IN, 923-1435. $ e

enter,

KAELIN’S RES TAURANT 1801 Ne wburg Rd., 4511801. This Highlands tradition has been around for almost 7 0 y ears, and their cheek y claim t o ha ve invented the cheeseburger actually seems to have some basis in f act. A spacious patio and r ecent renovations keep it up to date. $ f KARMA CAFÉ 112 6 Bar dstown Rd., 58 7-0062 .

Karma Café s tays open lat e and off ers dinerstyle courses—with a few Middle Eastern dishes for ac cent—in a casually arts y and inf ormal setting. $ f KERN’S KORNER 2 600 Bar dstown Rd., 456-9 72 6.

This f amily-owned ta vern has been a popular neighborhood pit s top sinc e 19 78. K ern’s off ers freshly made ham, chick en salad sandwiches and burgers, as w ell as a menu of soups, chilis and appetizers. $ p LEGENDS A T CAES ARS Caesars Indiana Casino , Elizabeth, IN, 888- 766-2 648. T he hot and c old short or ders ar e serv ed up with riv erboat hospitality, but in a Las Vegas atmosphere. A well stocked bar and a live stage welcome the best of regional and visiting national acts fr om Wednesday through Saturday nights. $$ p e

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LYNN’S PARADISE CAFÉ 984 Barret Ave., 583-3447.

One of the mos t popular places in town for brunch (and dinner t oo), Lynn’s Paradise Café lur es happy, hungry crowds with its hearty fare and funky decor.

Lynn’s sponsors the Stat e F air’s t ongue-in-cheek Ugliest Lamp C ontest, but ther e’s nothing ugly about the delicious and filling f ood. $$ p MAIN MENU 3306 Plaza Dr., New Albany, IN., 9486501. $$ MANHATTAN GRILL 200 S. 7th St., 561-0024. $ MASTERSON’S 1830 S. T hird St., 6 36-2 511. A fine , family L ouisville tr adition, this f amiliar T udor structure near the U of L campus is the s tate’s largest full-servic e r estaurant and the city’ s largest cat erer. Serving a lunch buff et Mon.-Fri., 10am-2pm only. Sunday Jazz Brunch. $ e MAX & ERMA ’S 2 901 S. Hurs tbourne Pk wy., 4 939662 , 39 2 1 Summit Plaza Dr ., 4 12 -52 2 9. Max & Erma’s, a national chain that started in Columbus, Ohio’s German Village in 1972, has grown to nearly 100 pr operties with a s teady f ormula of friendly service and casual-dining f are that r anges fr om specialty bur gers, soups and salads t o mor e weighty entrées. $$ p f THE MONKEY WRENCH 1025 Barret Ave., 582-2433.

A popular spot in the urban neighborhood wher e the Highlands meet Germant own, T he Monk ey Wrench off ers c omfort f ood with a s tylish spin, accompanied by good music, a r elaxed ambience and exceptionally welcoming service. $ p f NEIL’S PLACE 7611 IN 311, Sellersbur g, IN, 2 46-5456.

Best known for the specially seasoned fried chicken.

Neil’s also mak es excellent pastas, steaks, seafood, and salads. Homemade soups are created daily and coffee and desserts are always fresh. $$ p O’CHARLEY’S (6 locations ) O’Charle y’s, Inc. c ould serve well as the pictur e in the dictionary ne xt to “American casual dining. ” T he Nash ville-based chain operates 2 06 pr operties in 16 s tates in the Southeast and Midwest, serving a straightforward steak-and-seafood menu with the mott o “Mainstream with an attitude.” $$ p OLD CHICA GO P ASTA & PIZ ZA 9010 T aylorsville Rd., 301- 7700. T he quart ers that onc e housed hordes of noisy pizza-eating kids as Gattiland has taken on a mor e gr own-up char acter—but s till with pizza—as this gr owing chain arriv es in t own with thick Chicago-s tyle and thin tr aditional pies, and an imposing list of 110 beers. $$ p f ON THE RIVER DINING 1902 Victory Ln., 228-4359.

Restaurateur-hosts Cherri and Rick Br own off er old-fashioned do wn-home c ooking on this welcoming bar ge-based eat ery on the banks of the Ohio in Oldham C ounty. $ p f OTTO’S CAFÉ 500 S. F ourth St. (Seelbach Hilt on Hotel), 585-3201. Southern cooking with gourmet flair makes Otto’s an intriguing alt ernative to the Seelbach’s more upscale Oakroom. Check out the Southern Br eakfast Buff et and the Ex ecutive Express Lunch Buffet. $ PUB L OUISVILLE Fourth Str eet Liv e 56 9-7782 .

Owned b y Cincinnati’ s T he T avern R estaurant Group, T he P ub f eatures “nouv eau pub cuisine” ranging from shepherd’s pie and fish and chips to more Continental dishes lik e fried calamari and a seared ahi tuna entrée. $$ p f RAFFERTY’S OF L OUISVILLE 988 Br eckenridge Ln., 897-3900. 3601 Springhurs t Blvd., 412-9000.

This full-service, casual dining establishment has a hearty menu. Specialties lik e R ed Alfr edo P asta showcase the gourmet offerings along with some of the lar gest and mos t cr eative salad combinations in town. $$ p RANCH HOUSE 2611 Charlestown Rd., Ne w Albany, IN, 944-9199. The menu and the retro 1950s decor hark back t o the original Bob C olgazier’s restaurants that Baby Boomers remember fondly from days gone by. $ e

RED ROBIN GOURMET BURGERS 9870 Von Allmen Ct., 339-8616. The Robin just landed in the Brownsboro Crossings shopping center in the far East End. The first Louisville-area property of a highly regarded chain that s tarted in Seattle , it off ers a v ariety of “gourmet burgers” and trimmings. $$ p f RUBY TUESD AY 5001 Shelb yville Rd., 89 7-02 00, 11701 Bluegr ass Pk wy., 2 6 7-7100. If suc cess demonstrates quality , then Rub y T uesday’s 600 international pr operties and 30 ,000 emplo yees can stand up with pride . They’ve been upholding the slogan “Awesome Food. Serious Salad Bar” in Louisville for a generation. $$ p e THE RUDYARD KIPLING 42 2 W. Oak St., 6 36-1311.

The word “eclectic” fits this Old L ouisville eatery in jus t about e very dimension, fr om its funk y decor to its diverse bill of f are, not to mention an array of ent ertainment that bridges the generations fr om Gener ation X’ ers t o aging hippies. $ p f e SAM’S FOOD & SPIRIT S 3800 P ayne K ohler Rd., Clarksville, IN, 945-9757, 724 Highlander Point Dr., Floyds Knobs, IN, 9 2 3-7979. Opened b y a man named Sam some 16 years ago, the two locations feed an army of happy diners. You’ll find seafood, steaks, pas tas, salads and des serts. T he menu is extensive and child friendly. $$ p SHANE’S 1004 10th St., Jeffersonville, IN, 218-9769. $

Classic Italian

with a classic view.

Whether you’re passionate about pizza or crazy about calzones, check out the stunning view from our enormous deck and enjoy your favorite Italian dish.

SHONEY’S 1890 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-6870, 811 Eastern Pkwy., 636-1043, 6511 Signatur e Dr., 9698904. F or nearly 50 y ears, Shone y’s r estaurants have been one of America’ s t op choic es f or f ast roadside dining, and happily they’ve kept up with the times. $ SKYLINE CHILI 12 66 Bar dstown Rd., 4 73-12 34, Plainview V illage C enter, 42 9-5 77, 39 2 8 Dutchman’s Ln., 895- 7578, 6801 Dixie Hw y., 9 37402 0, 42 6 W . Mark et St., 56 1-9999. L ouisville’s outposts of a f amous Cincinnati chili r estaurant, these casual eat eries off er the r egional f avorite (really it ’s Gr eek spaghetti sauc e, but k eep it quiet) and other fast-food dishes. $ STEAK N SHAKE 32 32 Bar dstown Rd., 456-2 6 70, 4913 Dixie Hwy., 448-4400, 4545 Outer Loop, 9663109, 2 717 S. Hurs tbourne Pk wy., 4 91-3397, 10 72 1 Fischer P ark Dr ., 32 6- 362 5, 980 E. Hw y. 131, Clarksville, IN., 2 85- 1154. One of the oldes t f astfood chains in the U .S., St eak N Shak e tr aces its ancestry to an Illinois roadside stand in 1934. It now boasts 400 outlets in 19 states but still sticks to the basics: quality s teak bur gers and hand-dipped shakes served, if you dine in, on real china. $ TGI FRIDAY’S 9990 Linn Station Rd., 425-8185, 2311 Lime Kiln Ln., 32 7-8443, Fourth Street Live, 5853577. T he original plac e t o loosen the tie and congregate aft er the whis tle blo ws. TGIF carries on its party atmospher e tradition with American bistro dining and libations. T he bill of f are ranges fr om bask ets of appetiz ers on up t o contemporary entrées. $$ p f

Pizza Pies • Calzones Pasta • Specialties Bottomless salads and oven fresh bread 715 W. Riverside Drive (off I-65) with scenic views of Louisville on the River in Jeffersonville, IN 812.282.3844

TOMMY LANCASTER RESTAURANT 1629 E. Market St., New Albany, IN, 945-2 389 . Value and v ariety are the s trong points of this c ommunity tradition and the f are goes fr om bur gers t o lobs ter tails.

Friday or Saturday evenings feature a buffet. $ p TRELLIS RESTAURANT 320 W. Jefferson St. (Hyatt Regency), 58 7-3434. Dine on café f are in the Hyatt’s lofty atrium lobb y while y ou tak e advantage of an en vironment made f or peoplewatching. $$ p TUCKER’S 2 441 Stat e St., Ne w Alban y, IN, 9449999. Tucker’s gives you a little bit of e verything with a do wn-to-earth flair, off ering bur gers, ribs, steaks, a variety of appetizers and pastas. $ p TWICE TOLD PERFORMANCE CAFÉ 3507 W. Hwy. 146, LaGrange, 222-4506. An eclectic urban café in a village setting, about 2 0 minut es eas t of downtown in LaGr ange. T he casual menu lis ts

Two convenient locations serving lunch and dinner for dine in or carry out.

10206 Westport Rd. (off I-265)

502.339.0808

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sandwiches, fruits and v eggies; daily soups and entrées. $ e

FORK IN THE ROAD RESTAURANT 4951 Cane Run Rd., 448-3903. $

TWIG & LEAF RES TAURANT 2 12 2 Bar dstown Rd., 451-8944. A popular Highlands hangout, the ”Twig” is probably at its best for breakfast—whether you’re enjoying it while v enturing out on a leisur ely Sunday morning or heading home v ery lat e on a Saturday night. It ’s a plac e t o gr ab a quick, filling bite, and doesn’t pretend to be more. $

FRONTIER DINER 72 99 Dixie Hw y., 2 71-3663. T he name “ diner” sa ys it all, and this friendly neighborhood spot Dixie High way deliv ers jus t what y ou’d e xpect in do wn-home c omfort f are.

The word on the s treet, though, is simple: Go f or the pancakes. They’re worth a special trip. $

THE VILLA BUFFET Caesars Indiana Casino , Elizabeth, IN, 888- 766-2 648. T he V illa Buff et offers an impr essive choic e of int ernational dishes, with some 150 selections. A seaf ood buffet is featured on Fridays. $$ WESTPORT GENERAL S TORE 7008 Hw y 5 2 4, Westport, KY., 222-4626. Only a half-hour ’s drive up the Ohio fr om Louisville, proprietors Will and Laura Cr awford w elcome visit ors t o this c ozy destination, offering a comfortably sophisticated bill of f are that w ould in no w ay be out of plac e in a fancy city bistro. $$

BARBARA LEE’S KIT CHEN 2 410 Br ownsboro Rd., 897-3967. Barbara Lee’s has been a lat e-night refuge for years. It’s a reliable standby for those in search of traditional blue-plate special lunch food. Honest grub, honestly priced, in a rootsy atmosphere. $ BIG MAMA ’S SOUL KIT CHEN 4532 W . Br oadway, 772 -9580. Big Mama’ s ma y be the mos t hospitable place in the W est End t o get genuine soul f ood. A diff erent main c ourse is f eatured daily, all home-c ooked f ood, including such goodies as baked chicken, smothered pork chops, meat loaf, catfish … and fried chicken every day. $ CAROLYN’S 3822 Cane Run Rd., 776-9519. The steam table classic, the “meat ‘n’ tw o” gives you the roast chicken, green beans and mashed potatoes. Or pork chops, applesauce and limas. $ CHECK’S CAFÉ 1101 E. Burnett A ve., 637-9515. You can scent a whiff of L ouisville history coming off the old w alls of this quint essential Germant own saloon, along with years of frying grease. The bar food here is about as good as bar f ood gets, and that’s not bad. T he chili and the bean soup ar e particularly recommended. $ p f e THE CHICKEN HOUSE 7180 Hwy. 111, Sellersburg, IN., 2 46-9485. T he parking lot of this whit e fr ame building in rur al Indiana is pack ed on w eekend nights as f amilies from throughout the ar ea wait on delectable fried chick en. This is the v ery heart of American comfort food, including green beans, dumplings, and mashed potatoes. $$ CHICKEN KING 639 E. Br oadway, 589-5464. Spicy , crunchy and sizzling hot fried chick en is the primary draw on a short, aff ordable menu. $ COTTAGE CAFÉ 11609 Main St., Middlet own, 2 449497. This nostalgic old house in the c ountryside offers a tas te of K entucky-style c ookery in an array of lunch specials that r ange fr om homemade soups and sandwiches t o the traditional Louisville Hot Brown. $ COTTAGE INN 570 Eas tern Pk wy., 6 37-432 5. No w, this is down-home dining. Tucked away under big shade trees on Eas tern Parkway not f ar from the University of L ouisville’s Belknap Campus, Cottage Inn has been happily doling out excellent food for more than 70 years. $ DINNER IS DONE 3830 Ruckreigel Pkwy., 267-8686. $ D’NALLEY’S 970 S. T hird St., 583-8015. Dirt-cheap blue-plate specials and hearty br eakfasts bring droves to the c ounters and booths of this clas sic greasy spoon. Satur day morning hours ar e sporadic, but for a quick plate of meat loaf, green beans, and mashed potat oes, D’Nalley’s is a har d place to beat. $ 66 Summer 2006 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

GENNY’S DINER 2 2 2 3 Fr ankfort A ve., 89 3-092 3.

What’s the difference between Genny’s Diner and a saloon? You can take the kids to Genny’s. Better still, y ou can get a darn good meal at Genn y’s, provided that y ou set y our e xpectations f or hearty, filling and well-prepared diner food. $ p e GOLDEN CORRAL 4032 Taylorsville Rd., 485-0004, 8013 Pr eston Hw y., 966-4 970, 140 2 C edar St., 2 58-2 540. Buff et s tyle family dining—one pric e, all you can eat. Steaks are served beginning at 4 pm. $ GOOSE CREEK DINER 2923 Goose Creek Rd., 3398070. Goose Cr eek Diner off ers old-f ashioned comfort food, as the name “ diner” suggests, but transcendently adds a gourmet tas te t o the down-home eats. $ HAZELWOOD RESTAURANT 4106 Taylor Blvd., 3619104. Whether y ou lik e y our eggs o ver eas y, or your cheesebur gers w ell done , y ou’ll lik e the Hazelwood R estaurant. Standar d short or ders cooked with lots of character and a low price. $ HOMETOWN BUFFET 1700 Alliant Ave., 267-7044, 3710 Chamberlain Ln., 32 6-9 777, 664 1 Dixie Hw y., 9953320, 757 Hwy. 131, Clarksville, IN., 285-1893. This chain serves up nos talgic dishes, cas seroles, meats and desserts that allow you to set an all-American supper table with the all-you-can eat price tag. $ INDI’S RESTAURANT 1033 W. Broadway, 589-7985, 382 0 W. Mark et St., 77 8-5154, 4 901 Poplar L evel Rd., 964-5 749, 3353 F ern V alley Rd., 96 9-7993, 5009 S. T hird St., 36 3-2 535. Gr own fr om a tin y West End tak eout spot t o a mini-chain, Indi’ s vends a v ariety of aff ordable soul f ood and barbecue specialties to take out or eat in. $ JESSIE’S FAMILY RES TAURANT 9609 Dixie Hw y., 937-6332 . C ountry c ooking is Jes sie’s specialty , with hearty breakfast, lunch and dinner platters to fill the inner person. $ KINGS F AST FOOD 2 101 W . Br oadway, 77 2 -7138.

This tin y, c olorful W est End eat ery, open f or takeout only , off ers a v ast selection of filling, affordable urban f are that r anges fr om hot-andspicy chicken wings to rib tips and more. $ KING’S FRIED CHICKEN 1302 Dixie Hwy., 776-3013. $ LONGINO’S 1506 Berry Blvd., 361-9153. Don’t let the Italian family name fool you, this local fixture near Churchill Do wns f eatures do wn-home c ooking, mostly, r anging fr om fried gr een t omatoes t o hearty meat loaf to “The Manhattan.” $ MR. L OU’S C OUNTRY C OTTAGE RES TAURANT 5408 Valley Station Rd., 9 33-0806. Biscuits and red-eye gravy, country ham and grits show off Mr. Lou’s c ountry c ooking s tyle. R oast chick en is a dinner favorite, and so are homemade pies. $ O’DOLLYS 7800 Third St. Rd., 375-1690. Homestyle steam-table favorites are available from breakfast through dinner , not t o mention full bar servic e that mak es O’Dolly s a South west L ouisville destination. $ p f OLIVE’S ON FOURTH 570 S. F ourth St., 588-900 3.

No matt er what y ou’re hungry f or, chanc es ar e Olive’s has it—fr om s team-table f are t o pizza and calzones. C o-owners Linda Z eisloft and V icky Wright bring long back grounds at Sulliv an University to this comfortable downtown spot $ f SWEET PEA’S SOUTHERN (see listing under Bistro) TOLL BRIDGE INN 3300 North western Pk wy., 77 65505. A rich and c olorful his tory surr ounds the century-old fr ame building in Portland that no w

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houses the T oll Bridge Inn, a neighborhood favorite for simple, filling down-home fare. $ f WAGNER’S PHARMACY 3113 S. Fourth St., 375-3800.

A track-side institution that has as much history as the nearby Twin Spires of Churchill Downs. Soups, sandwiches, shak es, cherry C okes and an early bird “ trainer’s” br eakfast can be enjo yed all y ear round. Racing his tory on the w alls and serv ers who’ll call you “hon.” $ WEBB’S MARKET 944 E. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 5830318. Webb’s is deli sandwich market style dining.

Country ham sandwiches and the half-pound cheeseburger are a specialty. $

ANN’S BY THE RIVER 149 Spring St., Jeff ersonville, IN., 2 84-2 66 7. T his bus tling eat ery is caf eteria style dining done well. They serve up the standard steam table meat-and-three menu items as good as any. With the Ohio River a block away, it’s aptly named. $ CRAVINGS A LA CARTE 101 S. Fifth St. (National City Tower), 589-42 30 . T his thrifty deli off ers a variety of build- your-own sandwiches, a soupand-salad bar, and specialty bars f eaturing baked potatoes, and a monthly ethnic cr eation. $

pianos and a sing-along c oncept? You’ll find this 4,000-square-foot club at F ourth Str eet Liv e on the ground level. $ p e JILLIAN’S 630 Barr et A ve., 589-9090 . L ouisville’s outpost of the Bos ton-based billiar d-themed restaurant concept, this big and nois y bar, food and billiards sc ene is housed under the t owering concrete columns of a former grain elevator just east of downtown. Always filled with a happ y crowd, it’s the place to go for casual food and fun. $ p f e JOE HUBER F AMILY F ARM & RES TAURANT 2421 Scottsville Rd., Starlight IN, 9 23-5255. A pleasant 2 0-minute driv e fr om do wntown L ouisville, Huber’s has built a solid r eputation f or simple farm fare that’s well-made, fresh and good. Some of the pr oduce is gr own on the pr emises in season. $$ p f e LUCKY S TRIKE LANES / FEL T Fourth Str eet Liv e, 560-1400. An upscale bo wling alle y? A clas sy poolroom? Who knew! These twin concepts from Jillian’s founders Stephen and Gillian F oster light up Fourth Street Live with a stylish blend of ’50sstyle r etro and high-t ech modern, plus a menu that serves much more than mere bar food. $$ p f

HALL’S CAFETERIA 1301 St ory A ve., 583-043 7.

Hall’s Cafeteria has been doing a brisk business on the steam tables since 1955, attracting customers from Butchertown’s truck loading docks and from offices downtown. $

MY OLD KENTUCK Y DINNER TRAIN 602 N. T hird St., Bardstown, KY, (502) 348-7300. Talk about a nostalgia trip: My Old K entucky Dinner T rain offers a f our-course meal during a tw o-hour voyage along scenic Kentucky railroad tracks near Bardstown in vintage 1940s-er a dining cars.

Reservations ar e s trongly r ecommended. All aboard! $$$$ p

JANE’S CAFETERIA 4601 Jennings Ln., 454- 72 86.

This 40- year-old f amily-owned r estaurant kno ws how t o c ook f or f olks mis sing their home table .

Count on an att entive s taff and fr esh southern fare. $

STAR CRUISES 151 W. Riv erside Rd., Jeff ersonville, IN, 2 18- 1565. T he Ohio Riv er cruise is the bes t thing about this L ove Boat-s tyle y acht that makes nightly all- you-can-eat cruises up the river. $$$$ p f

JAY’S CAFETERIA 1812 W . Muhammad Ali Blv d., 583-2 534. Ja y’s modern, w ell-scrubbed building wouldn’t be out of plac e on Hurs tbourne Lane .

Hungry diners fr om all o ver t own find a w arm welcome at this popular West End location that ’s now run as a c ommunity-development pr ogram by two local churches. $

STUMLER RES TAURANT & ORCHARD 1092 4 St. John’s Rd., Starlight, IN, 9 23-3832. Fresh produce is available in the big shed a f ew steps away, and that fresh produce shows up on the tables here in mammoth portions. C ombine that with hones t fried chick en, big ham s teaks, r oast beef , and sandwiches, and you can’t go wrong. $$ f

PICCADILLY CAFETERIA 2131 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 493-9900, 133 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 423-1733. An east end favorite for variety, Piccadilly offers roast beef, fried chicken, cod, steak and shrimp dinners, a gar dener’s lis t of v egetables and a f ew ethnic dishes for global measure. $ SOUTH SIDE INN CAFETERIA 114 E. Main St., Ne w Albany, IN., 945-9645. Ne w o wners Joe Pee vor and Angela Ha wley, ha ve spruc ed up this venerable old caf eteria sinc e taking o ver this summer, and the y’re adding a sports bar and patio. Don’t look for much change in South Side’s familiar f are, though: T here’s no point in fixing what’s not broken. $

BUFFALO CROSSING 1140 Bagdad Rd., Shelb yville, KY, (502) 647-0377. If you’d like to combine a day trip with a culinary adv enture, consider a drive to Buffalo Cr ossing in Shelb y C ounty. T his agricultural amusement park f eatures a 500-head buffalo herd and an o versize dining r oom where you can give this healthy red meat a try. The food here is c ountry-style and so ar e the friendly servers. $$ f DERBY DINNER PLAYHOUSE 525 Marriott Dr., Clarksville, IN, 288-8281. The play’s the thing at Derby Dinner Playhouse, L ouisville’s long-running entry in the dinner-theater s weepstakes … but the e xpansive buffet dinner adds value to the mix. $$$$ e HOWL AT THE MOON Fourth Street Live, 562-9400.

What’ll they think of next? How about a nightclub that f eatures a “ dueling” piano bar with tw o

AMERICAN PIZ ZA 6712 Shepher dsville Rd., 962 8966. $ p e ANGILO’S PIZZA 1725 Berry Blvd., 368-1032. The local favorite is the s teak hoagie , dripping with pizza sauce, pickles and onions. Angilo’ s also off ers a wide selection of hot pizza pies and c old beer. $ ANGIO’S RES TAURANT 3731 Old Bar dstown Rd., 451-5454. T his small Buechel eat ery attr acts a friendly neighborhood crowd with hefty subs and quality pizzas, along with c old beer. $ ANNIE’S PIZZA 2520 Portland Ave., 776-6400, 4007 Cane Run Rd., 44 9-4444. Annie’ s has made-t oorder pizza and a v ariety of s tacked sandwiches such as the Big Daddy Str om with beef , Italian sausage, onions and banana peppers. $ ARNI’S PIZZA 1208 State St., New Albany, IN, 9451149, 3700 Paoli Pike, Floyds Knobs, IN, 923-9805.

A favorite Hoosier pizza and sandwich stop. Insist on getting the Deluxe. $ AVER’S GOURMET PIZZA 4610 Taylorsville Rd., 6711999. T his gr owing r egional mini-chain boas ts a “gourmet pizza t o go” c oncept that f eatures “exotic” pizza c ombos lik e “Cr eam & Crimson, ” featuring potatoes and bacon, Alfredo sauce and cheese. Takeout and delivery only. $$ BEARNO’S PIZZA 131 W. Main St., 584- 7720, 2900 Taylorsville Rd., 458-8605, 6 101 Bar dstown Rd., 2 31-2 2 2 2 , 135-F Mark etplace Dr ., 95 7-5100, 10117 Taylorsville Rd., 2 6 7-2 549, 1318 Bar dstown Rd., 456-4556, 8019 Pr eston Hw y., 968-6060 , 4 105 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Summer 2006 67

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Dixie Hwy., 449-4141, 9222 Westport Rd.,423-1224, 7895 Dixie Hwy., 937-1234, 1923 S. Fourth St., 6345155, 3002 Charlestown Crossing, 949-7914. $ p BRUNO’S PIZZA 5170 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, (812) 944-5050. $$ CICI’S PIZZA 470 New Albany Plaza, Ne w Albany, IN., 944-4 942 , 309 3 Br eckinridge Ln., 45 2 -6700, 52 2 6 Dixie Hw y., 448-8895. Serious bar gainhunters will find Cici’ s culinary offer hard to beat.

This Dallas-based chain serv es up all the pizza you can eat for only $3.99. $ CLIFTON’S PIZ ZA 2 2 30 Fr ankfort Ave., 89 3-3730.

Clifton’s pizza appeals t o me with its adult s tyle, full of the bold fla vors of herbs and spic es and available with gr own-up t oppings lik e ancho vies and artichoke hearts. All this and funky, fun decor makes it one of m y favorite local pizzerias. $ f e DANNY MAC’S PASTA & PIZZA 1014 Clarks Ln., 6357994. $ DOMINO’S PIZZA (20 locations) $$ FAST BREAK PIZ ZA 682 5 C entral A ve., 2 43-1101.

Scott Hack’s new Italian spot, featuring pizza, subs and other Italian- American goodies in a spacious sports bar with a bask etball theme, is luring pizza lovers out to Crestwood for fine traditional pizzas plus such inno vative it ems as the pineappletopped Big Kahuna and, believe it or not, a baconcheeseburger pie. $ FAT JIMMY’S 9901C LaGr ange Rd., 339-8111, 2 712 Frankfort A ve., 891-4555; 2 2 08 Bar dstown Rd., 479-1040; 1382 9 English V illa Dr., 2 44-0840; 5 2 8 S. Fifth St. This friendly neighborhood nook offers a cold mug of beer and a hot slice of pizza, along with sub sandwiches, pas ta dishes and salads.

The Lyndon spot lures a friendly bik er crowd; the Crescent Hill eatery reflects its urban setting. $

FAT TONY’S PIZZA 9910 Linn Station Rd., 339-3553.

Formerly Brick Ov en Pizza, F at Tony’s has been attracting big lunchtime crowds to Plainview with authentic Ne w Y ork-style pizza, the thin-crus t kind with o versize slices that y ou have to fold in half in order to make a mouth-size portion. Other basic Italian- American pas ta dishes add t o the appeal of this casual, aff ordable spot. $$ FRATELLO’S PIZ ZA 735 E wing Ln., Jeff ersonville, IN, 2 84- 12 34. F amily o wned and oper ated, Fratello’s off ers fr esh, homemade pies. T angy, spicy sauc e and a che wy crus t with a dis tinctly garlicky fla vor define Fr atello’s pizza; add points for warm and friendly hospitality $ FROLIO’S PIZ ZA 3799 Poplar L evel Rd., 456- 1000.

Just ar ound the c orner fr om the L ouisville Z oo, Frolio’s is a neighborhood pizz eria with a c ozy, dim Italian- American mood and an all- you-caneat pizza-and-salad lunch special. $$ f HOMETOWN PIZZA 11804 Shelbyville Rd., 245-4555, 8442 Dixie Hw y., 9 35-3555, La Gr ange Squar e Shopping C enter, 2 2 2 -4444. P asta dishes, hoagies, s tromboli and c old beer ar e a vailable, and so is the one-of-a-kind Bac on Cheeseburger pizza. $$ IROQUOIS PIZZA 6614 Manslick Rd., 363-3211. $$ JOCKAMO’S PIZZA PUB 983 Goss Ave., 637-5406.

Old-timers are delighted to see Jock amo’s Pizza Pub back in business in Germantown, more than a decade after it depart ed Bardstown Road. Some of the original o wners ( except the lat e Da ve Wilder) ha ve r ecreated the s tyle, the mood and the live music, of the original. $$ e LITTLE CAES AR’S PIZ ZA 816 K enwood Dr ., 3665599, 9017 G alene Dr ., 2 6 7-8600, 562 2 Pr eston Hwy. 966-5800 , 6 714 Out er L oop, 966- 3111. T his Detroit-based pizz eria chain los t mark et shar e in the ‘90s, but busines s analy sts sa y the c ompany

known f or its tw o-for-one “pizza pizza” deal has turned things around with a renewed commitment to quality and service. $$ LOUISVILLE PIZZA CO. 3910 Ruckriegel Pkwy., 2671188. Also kno wn as Chubb y Ra y’s, this local pizzeria mak es good, fr esh pizzas and ItalianAmerican sandwiches. $ p f MA ZERELLA S 949 S. Indiana A ve., Sellersburg, IN, 2 46-9517, 2 868 Charles town Rd., Ne w Alban y, IN, 948-8000. Pleasant f amily-run-for-family-fun establishments. Pizza, pas ta, salads and subs served for lunch and dinner seven days a week. $ MR. GATTI’S 5600 S. T hird St., 36 3-2 2 11, 8594 Dixie Hwy., 935-0100, 3319 Bardstown Rd., 451-0540, 1108 Lyndon Ln., 339-8338, 2 2 47 S. Pr eston St., 6 356708, 42 00 Out er L oop, 964-09 2 0. T his A ustinbased chain was one of the first national pizzerias to reach L ouisville in the 19 70s, and quality ingredients—plus G attiland pla ygrounds f or the kids—have made its crisp , thin-crus t pizzas a popular draw for nearly 30 years. $$ NEW YORK CAPRI PIZZA 1503 Lynch Ln., Clarksville, IN, 284-1480. $ PA PA MURPHY’S PIZ ZA 2 91 N. Hubbar ds Ln., 8956363, 5016 Mud Ln., 962- 7272, 9501 Taylorsville Rd., 2 66-7000, 16 1 Out er L oop, 36 1-3444; 460 7 Out er Loop, 964- 72 72 ; 12 535 Shelb yville Rd., 2 53-9191, 6756 Bar dstown Rd., 2 39-82 82 , 1305 V eterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 280-7272. $$ PAPA JOHN’S PIZ ZA (30 locations ) “P apa” John Schnatter got int o the pizza game as a Southern Indiana high-school student in 1984 and has built his business into a 3, 000-restaurant international chain on the basis of a simple f ormula: traditional pizza, made fr om quality ingr edients in a straightforward style. $$ PIE IN THE SK Y 10301 Taylorsville Rd., 2 40-9988.

This pizzeria offers up pies with fr esh ingredients and hand-tossed dough. T he selection of beer is wide and so is the TV scr een for those w eekend gatherings. P asta, salads and sandwiches— including the popular Hot Sicilian—r ound out the casual dining menu. $$ PIZZA BO X 10331 Champion F arms Dr ., 42 3-0530 .

Moved early in 2 005 fr om its longtime , spartan quarters near the Ford Kentucky Truck Plant, Pizza Box now boasts more modern and stylish quarters in Springhurs t. It ’s s till a popular gathering plac e, and the e xcellent pizzas ar e s till a dr aw, e ven if they’ve cut back on the onc e imposing beer list. $ PIZZA BY THE GUY 8109 Lagrange Rd., 426-4044.

This locally owned franchise is famous for its extra spicy, hand-t ossed dough. C ome and get it, literally, because ther e’s only a c ozy table f or three at the store and most folks pick up their pie or have it delivered. $ PIZZA HUT (15 locations) $$ PIZZA KING 382 5 Charles town Rd., Ne w Alban y IN, 945-4405, 1066 K ehoe Ln., Jeff ersonville, IN., 2 82 8286. The pizza at Pizza King is bak ed in a s turdy, clay stone oven and hand-tossed with thinner crust where the ingredients go all the way to the edge. $$ PIZZA PLACE 2931 Richland Ave., 458-9700. $ PRADO’S PIZZA 12935 Shelbyville Rd., 254-722. $$ SNAPPY T OMATO (7 L ocations) A gr owing Midwestern pizza-deliv ery chain based in Northern K entucky, Snapp y Tomato mo ved int o the Louisville market this summer, taking o ver all the pr operties v acated in Pizza Magia’ s demise .

Pizzas are made with fresh ingredients (including an unusual cinnamon-apple pizza “pie”), and the chicken wings are impressive. $$ SPINELLI’S PIZ ZERIA 614 Baxt er A ve., 568-5665.

This tin y s torefront in the city’ s night club z one offers a tas ty option f or the wide-e yed-late-atnight cr owd seeking good cheap eats; it ’s open

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until 5 a.m nightly fr om W ednesdays thr ough Saturdays. Bett er y et, it giv es L ouisville an authentic taste of Philadelphia specialties: Philly style pizza and real Philly cheese steaks. $ f

provides the ne xt best thing t o a f amily cookout.

Sandwiches, fresh salads, fruit c obblers and oldfashioned hand-dipped milkshak es enhanc e the nostalgic theme. $ f

SPORTSTIME PIZZA 3312 Plaza Dr., New Albany, IN, 944-2 577. T outing “ the bes t pizza in southern Indiana” is quite a boast, but when the pizza biz is part of the Ne w Albanian Br ewing Company, the boast carries w eight. T he N.A.B. C. is the ne west offshoot of Rich O’s, nationally noted for its huge selection of microbrews and hard-to-find imports.

Try the “Herbavore” with spinach, sliced tomatoes and roasted garlic for a sizzling start. $

BANK SHOT BILLIARDS 403 E. Market St., 587-8260. $

TONY BOOMBOZZ 3334 Frankfort Ave., 896-9090, 1448 Bar dstown Rd., 458-8889 . Boombo zz wins praise f or e xceptionally high quality pizza and other quick Italian-style fare. Tony’s pizzas include both tr aditional pies and gourmet-s tyle specialties that ha ve w on a wards in national competition. $$ TONY BOOMBO ZZ PIZ ZA & VINO 2 813 N. Hurstbourne Pk wy., 394-0000 . Boombo zz has taken its pizza c oncept t o a ne w le vel with the opening of Pizza & V ino in Springhurs t. The new “fast casual” f acility f eatures the a ward-winning Boombozz pizzas and paninis with a w ell-chosen wine and beer lis t, in a a s triking “urban loft ” tangerine and jade setting with Italian-made furniture to add an upscale ac cent. $$ p TONY IMPELLIZ ZERI’S 108 V ieux Carr e Dr ., 42 90606. The original Impellizzeri’s Pizza is gone from the Highlands, but this decade-old s trip-center storefront near Hurstbourne houses brother Tony’s venture. If you like the massive, heavily loaded Impellizzeri pizza s tyle, it ’s a tr eat not t o be missed. $$ UNO CHICAGO BAR & GRILL 6501 Bar dstown Rd., 2 39-0079. T his suc cessful fr anchise serv es up Chicago style pizza—deep dish with more toppings than crust. Steaks, pastas, sandwiches and burgers complement the full service menu. $$ p VITO’S PIZ ZERIA 32 13 Pr eston Hw y., 6 34-5400.

Reasonable people can diff er on the subject, but Vito’s f ans sa y the sizzling, o ven-charred pies at this downscale little plac e on Pr eston are among the best pizzas in town. $$ WICKS PIZ ZA PARLOR 975 Baxt er Ave., 458- 182 8, 2927 Goose Creek Rd., 327-9425, 12717 Shelbyville Rd., 213-9425, 10966 Dixie Hwy., 995-4333. Wick’s wins popularity with a w elcoming mix of good pizza, a quality beer lis t and a friendly neighborhood feel at all thr ee of its eat eries. The pies ar e s traightforward, made with ample toppings. “The Big Wick” is a favorite. $ p WINGS TO GO 4324 Charlestown Rd., Ne w Albany, IN, 941-9464. $ WINDY CITY PIZ ZERIA 2 62 2 S. F ourth St., 6 363708. Stuffed Chicago-style and crispy thin-crust pizzas off er whiche ver option a pizza lo ver desires. $$

AMAZING GRA CE WHOLE FOOD S DELI 1133 Bardstown Rd., 485- 112 2 . If you think “v egan” means only r aw carrots, bean spr outs, seeds and roots, think again. No animals w ere harmed in the making of the tas ty alt ernative sandwiches and other dishes at this neat little deli attached t o a spiffy local organic-foods grocery. $ ANOTHER PLACE SANDWICH SHOP 119 S. Seventh St., 589-4115. If you want to buy a car, go to a car dealer. To buy a carpet, patr onize a carpet shop .

And if you’ve got a sandwich on your to-do list, it makes sense to go to a sandwich shop. $ BACKYARD BURGER 1800 Priority Way, 240-9945.

The open flame at this c ounter-service diner

BLIMPIE’S SUBS & S ALADS 2020 Brownsboro Rd., 899-7960, 3360 Hik es Ln., 451-5480 . Sublime subs—fast and fr esh. Blimpie’s is all that … and a bag of chips. $ C.A.P.P.P.’S DELI 4010 Dupont Cir., 895-7064. $ CHICAGO GYROS 2317 Brownsboro Rd., 895-3270. $ p CIANO’S 11904 Shelbyville Rd., 245-6997. $ DANISH EXPRES S PASTRIES 102 1/2 Cannons Ln., 895-2 863. Jus t a f ew tables turn this tak eout nook int o a sit-in br eakfast and lunch spot f or a handful of diners at a time . Full br eakfasts and light lunches ar e a vailable, but as the name implies, Danish pas tries ar e the specialty , and they’re fine. $ DEVINO’S 320 Main St., 56 9-3939. Right acr oss the street fr om L ouisville Slugger Field, this s tylish new deli adds another lunch and dinner option t o the booming eas t-of-downtown z one.

Sandwiches ar e made fr om quality Boar ’s Head meats and cheeses cut on the pr emises, with dining inside and on the patio; pack age beer and wine is also available. $ f DINO’S DO WN T O L UNCH CAFÉ 2 39 S Fifth St. (Kentucky Home Life Building) 585-2874. $ DIZZY WHIZZ DRIVE-IN 217 W. St. Catherine St., 5833828. This neighborhood eat ery is an ins titution. It goes back more than 50 years and hasn’t changed much. It opens early and stays open late and offers good value for what you’d expect. $ f DMITRI’S DELI 521 S. T hird St., 584-8060 . A do wntown deli f avorite. Daily specials ar e surr ounded by an impr essive v ariety of sandwiches, soups and salads. $ f DOOLEY’S BAGELCATESSEN 12903 Shelbyville Rd., 245-3354, 216 N. Hurs tbourne Ln., 394-0021, 980 Breckenridge Ln., 89 3-3354, 2 2 41 Stat e St., Ne w Albany, IN, 981-012 4, 2226 Holida y Manor C enter, 42 6-3354. T his c onvenient deli specializ es in bagels, as the name implies. Br eakfast means fresh bagels with an arr ay of cr eam cheese , sausage, eggs and coffee. At lunchtime lines form for sandwiches—subs, panini, wr aps, hot melts and cold cuts. $ EURO MARKET 12907 Factory Ln., 2 43-0000. It looks like a neighborhood c onvenience s tore and bottle shop, but when you get inside, it contains a delicious surprise: an appetizing servic e c ounter off ers a variety of goodies t o take out or eat in. Don’t mis s the excellent fried-oyster box, as well as an intriguing selection of quality beers and fine wines. $ THE FEED BA G DELI 133 Breckenridge Ln., 896- 1899.

The grilled salmon bur ger is w orth the visit, as well as the Triple Crown wrap with three meats or a fresh veggie wrap. Soups, des serts t op off the lunch-only schedule. $ FRASCELLI’S NEW Y ORK DELI 62 47 Cr estwood Station, 2 43-9005. S mall and spartan, this tw oroom storefront just out from Pewee Valley offers a broad selection of Italian-s tyle deli sandwiches, plus a shorter list of home-style Italian hot dishes from lasagna to baked ziti. $ HEADY’Z 947 Baxter Ave., 454-5507. Formerly Cheba Hut, this quick-service sub shop continues with the head-shop theme and good quick eats. $ HERMAN’S DELICA TESSEN 3985 Dut chmans Ln., 897-7570. In y et another not eworthy geogr aphical and ethnic shift, this building that onc e held a Tumbleweed (and w as originally an Ollie’ s Trolley) now houses a f airly good r endition of a Ne w York City kosher-style deli. Make mine pastrami! $$

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HONEYBAKED CAFÉ 4600 Shelb yville Rd., 8956001, 6423 Bardstown Rd., 239-9292, 757 Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 284-1799. $ HOTDOG HEAVEN 209 E. Main St., 222-2626. $

pf

JERSEY MIKE’S SUBS AND S ALADS 10266 Shelbyville Rd., 2 44-1991, 10519 Fischer P ark Dr ., 42 5-102 5, 9156 T aylorsville Rd., 4 99-9830. Eas t Coast-style sub shop with local faves that includes cheese, ham, pr osciuttini, capic ola, salami, pepperoni and fixings. $ JIMMY JOHN’S SUB SHOP 894-9393. $ f

3901 Dut chmans Ln.,

JUANITA’S BURGER BOY 1450 S. Brook, 635-7410.

For a r eal slic e of L ouisville lif e, this w eathered greasy spoon at the corner of Brook and Burnett is the r eal thing. Neighborhood deniz ens drink coffee and chow down on burgers and breakfast until the wee hours (the joint is open 24 hours). If Louisville is home t o a budding Charles Bukowski, ther e’s a good chanc e he’ s sitting at Juanita’s counter right no w, recovering from last night’s excesses. $

OLLIE’S TROLLEY 978 S. Third St., 583-5214. A little piece of f ast-food his tory r emains on an urban street c orner in Old L ouisville. It ’s one of the nation’s f ew surviving tr olleys of the L ouisvillebased chain that spr ead across the nation in the ‘70s. Ov ersize bur gers with a spicy , homemade flavor are just as good as ever. $ PANERA BREAD C O. 5000 Shelb yville Rd., 8999992 , 62 2 1 Dut chmans Ln., 895-9991, 601 S. Hurstbourne Ln., 42 3- 7343, 10451 Champion Farms Dr ., 42 6-2 134, 1040 V eterans Pk wy., Clarksville, IN, 2 88-9400 . W arm br eads finishbaked on the pr emises mak e a tas ty base f or a variety of sandwiches. Soups, salads, c offee drinks and a fr ee W iFi hotspot mak e P anera’s outlets popular gathering places. $ f PAUL’S FRUIT MARKET 3905 Chenoweth Sq., 8968918, 4 946 Br ownsboro Rd., 42 6-5059 , 12 119 Shelbyville Rd., 2 53-00 72 , 3704 Taylorsville Rd., 456-4750. One of L ouisville’s popular sour ces for pr oduce, cheeses, deli it ems, and the lik e.

Deli sandwiches and salads ar e a vailable (takeout only). $

LITTLE CHEF 147 E. Mark et St., Ne w Alban y, IN, 949-7567. E very city needs a pos tage-stampsized spot that kno ws ho w t o fry potat oes and grill up a burger. In New Albany, the place is Little Chef. Biscuits and gr avy, fried eggs, and bur gers, in a joint that seems lik e a thr owback t o the heartland of America, circa 1940. $ f

STEVENS & STEVENS 1114 Bardstown Rd., 584-3354.

Sharing space with the popular Ditt o’s, Stevens & Stevens is primarily kno wn f or cat ering and takeout fare. They cook just as w ell if y ou choose to stay in, though, off ering appealing sandwiches and deli fare with a healthy twist. $ STRAWBERRY P ATCH DELI 11616 Shelb yville Rd., 2 54-1440. T his Middlet own deli off ers health y food with a dash of gourmet and a sprinkle of southern. $

W.W. C OUSINS RES TAURANT 900 Dupont Rd., 897-9684. T his locally o wned and oper ated eatery looks a lot lik e the national Fuddruck ers chain, but the local bo ys do a bett er job , with huge bur gers on magis terial home-bak ed buns and a Metropolitan Museum of toppings. $

MAIN EATERY 643 W. Main St., 589- 3354. Smack dab in the middle of the Main Str eet his toric district, this f ashionable deli lur es the sa vvy business midday crowd. $ f

WALL ST. DELI 225 Abraham Flexner Way at Jewish Hospital, 585-4202. Offering New York style with Kentucky flair, this bus y downtown deli will serv e in-house diners or tak e or ders f or deliv eries.

Authentic Nathan’s Hot Dogs are a specialty. $

MCALISTER’S DELI 10041 Forest Green Blvd., 4258900, 2721 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 671-2424, 2400 Lime Kiln Ln., 339-8544, 6508 Bar dstown Rd., 2 39-9997, 1305 V eterans Pk wy., Clarks ville, IN, 282-3354. Emphasizing quality cus tomer service, this delicatessen ladles up such soups as gumbo and chick en t ortilla along with cutting boar d favorites. They have a special w ay with a tumbler of sweet iced tea and lemon. $ f

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8034 Ne w

THEATER SQU ARE DELI 2 2 T heater Squar e, 5840364. T he name has changed (f ormerly Anthony’s), but the mis sion remains pretty much the same: Feed do wntown lunch cr owds quick and affordable deli fare and sandwiches f

LUNCH TODAY 590 Missouri Ave., Jeffersonville, IN, 2 82 -1005. T his outfit pr epares its shar e of the soups, salads and sandwiches that the downtown workforce needs to re-energize. $ f

NORD’S BROWN BAG PUB & DELI 2100 S. Preston St., 635-6747. This simple little neighborhood spot near the University of Louisville may not be much for atmosphere, but well-fashioned if simple diner fare vaults it into the realm of serious destinations for har d-core “f oodies,” with e xtra cr edit f or friendly, welcoming service. $

THE S TARVING ARTIS T CAFÉ & DELI Lagrange Rd., 412-1599. $

THE BODEGA 829 E. Market St., 569-4100. This new entry in the e xciting F elice Plaza eas t of downtown c ombines a small specialty -food market, wine-and-beer shop and deli under one compact r oof. Select fr om Blue Dog br eads, Boar’s Head meats and cheeses and other good things, and the y’ll build y our lunch t o dine in or enjoy on their sunny patio. $ f

LOTSA PASTA 3717 Lexington Rd., 896-6 361. As the name sugges ts, L otsa P asta originat ed as an Italian specialty-food store, and it has been a local favorite since it opened over 20 years ago. It now offers deli meats and cheeses and an eclectic international selection of sausages and cheese .

Now with an e xcellent deli c ounter fashions New Orleans-style muffulettas and other sandwiches. $

NANCY’S BA GEL GROUND S 2 101 Fr ankfort A ve., 895-832 3. A friendly and casual neighborhood gathering spot. Off erings include soups, snacks, coffee drinks and bagels made on the premises to its own rather idiosyncratic formula. $ f

SOUPY’S 3019 Br eckenridge Ln., 451-532 5, 46 32 S. Hurstbourne Pk wy., 4 99-4404, 4590 Dixie Hwy, 449-2 000, 94 93 W estport Rd, 42 5-2 54 9, 2 9 30 Dr. W illiam W eathers Dr., 774-2 500. In the soup kettles y ou will find such clas sics as chees y potato, bean and ham, br occoli and cheese , chicken and dumplings and mor e. At the cutting board they’ll make you meat, cheese and v eggie sandwiches according to your custom design. $

SUB STATION II 3101 Fern Valley Rd., 964- 1075. The hardy No . 19 , a six -meat-and-cheese super sub , keeps the store buzzing. An arr ay of sandwiches, salad sides and des serts fill out an appetizing lunch menu. $

LONNIE’S BEST TASTE OF CHICAGO 121 St. Matthews Ave., 895-2 380 . T his appetizing oper ation off ers genuine Chicago hot dogs and a tas te of Chicago atmosphere for a price that won’t hurt your wallet.

Make Lonnie’s the plac e to go when y ou’ve got a hankering for Windy City fare. $

MORRIS DELI & CA TERING 2 2 2 8 Taylorsville Rd., 458-1668. Man y locals s till kno w this small, popular Highlands deli as K arem Deeb’s aft er its longtime pr evious o wner. Mos tly f or tak eout—it packs in a f ew cr owded tables—it ’s kno wn f or high-quality, hand-made deli fare. $

SHADY LANE CAFÉ 4806 Brownsboro Center, 8935118. T wo Guys and a Grill is no mor e, but one assumes that the grill r emains on the pr emises of this suburban luncheon spot under its new name $

WILD O ATS NA TURAL MARKETPLA CE 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 721-7373. This national natural-food grocery includes a sit-do wn café wher e y ou can order pizzas, sandwiches, or even sushi. $ f ZAP’S 423 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 587-0251 $ PENN S TATION (14 L ocations). Billed as the Eas t Coast Sub Headquart ers, this sandwich kit chen does a brisk business here in the Louisville area. $ QUIZNO’S SUBS (17 locations ) T oasted br eads, a sandwich selection of meats, v eggies and fish ar e built to fight hunger. Fresh soups are available daily, from chili to chowder; so are salads and desserts. $

BAKE’S BARBEQUE 542 7 V alley Station Rd., 9 350999. Bak e’s ribs ar e smok ed t o such t ender perfection that the meat slides off the bone . This is four-star barbecue , fully c ompetitive with the region’s best. $$

SCHLOTZSKY’S DELI 42 59 Out er L oop, 96 9-0506, 10531 Fischer P ark Dr., 42 5-844, 12 915 Shelb yville Rd., 2 44-9069. T he original Schlotzsk y’s off ered just one kind of sandwich—“T he Original”—when it opened its first eatery in Austin, Texas, in 1971. Now this national chain vends a full selection of deli-style fare, with one significant impr ovement on the traditional deli: the servers are invariably polite. $ f

BOOTLEG BARBECUE COMPANY 9704 Bardstown Rd., 2 39-2 72 2 , 7 508 Pr eston Hw y., 968-565 7.

Bootleg Barbecue off ers a t ouch of rus ticity and a good helping of c ountry hospitality, as it dishes out hearty portions of w ell pr epared and affordable smok ed meats and fixin’ s. It ’s one of the f ew plac es in L ouisville wher e y ou can get Western Kentucky-style mutton barbecue. $ f

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BOURBON BROS. BBQ 2900 Brownsboro Rd., 8962 486; 16 11 Charles town-New Alban y Pik e, Jeffersonville, IN, 2 83-9000 . Bourbon Br os. BBQ prepares w ell-crafted smok ed meats including pork ribs that, on their bes t da ys, appr oach competition quality. An added plus f or interesting sauces including at leas t one that ’s amply dosed with the eatery’s namesake booze. Winning critical acclaim as one of the city’ s t op barbecue joints, now adds a location in Southern Indiana. $ f

PEPPER SHAKER CHILI & BAR-B-Q 4918 Poplar Level Rd., 962 - 7077. A squadr on of hea vy blackiron smok ers burn thr ough c ords of hick ory t o turn out some of the t own’s bes t barbecue at a price that’s right. $ p

BRANDON’S BAR-B-QUE 9246 Westport Rd., 4266666. Servic e is caf eteria-style in this shoppingcenter es tablishment f eaturing T ennessee-style barbecue, wher e hick ory-smoked barbecue sandwiches and filling, aff ordable dinners are the specialty. $

PIT S TOP BAR-B-QUE 612 S. Fifth St., 584-4054.

Genuine T exas barbecue , dry and t ender meat, red-rimmed and savory from hours in the smoker, is the style served here. March up to the window, place your order, bus your own plate. No muss, no fuss, and it is very good. $ f

CLARK BOY BAR-B-Q 672 8 Johnsont own Rd., 9 335577. If it’s a little off the beaten path, there’s nothing the matter with that. Clark Bo y’s reasonably priced Western K entucky-style barbecue is w ell w orth a special trip . Lik e man y mom ’n’ pop eat eries, it accepts cash only, no plastic. $

RUBBIE’S BAR-B-QUE & BREW 6905 Southside Dr., 367-0007. T his South End f amily kno ws ho w t o do BBQ. It ma y be off the beat en path f or some folks but here you’ll find the bounty of secret BBQ recipes. $ p f e

FAMOUS D AVE’S BAR-B-QUE 8605 Citadel W ay, 493-2 812 , 1360 V eterans Pk wy., Clarks ville, IN, 282-3283. This franchise chain oper ation may be based in the twin cities, but it looks like a Georgia gas station with its e xuberant, if tongue-in-cheek faux country decor. The important thing, though, is the f ood, and Da ve’s e xcels with genuine , hickory-smoked barbecue. $$ p f FINLEY’S HICK ORY SMOKED BAR-B-Q 1500 W .

Broadway, 581-0298. Rib tips are the specialty but you’ll find turk ey legs, ham, half-chick ens, pork chops and shr edded beef and pork —all f or dinners or sandwiches, and barbecued pig’ s feet for the BBQ purists. $ f FIRE FRESH BBQ 6435 Bardstown Rd., 2 39- 7800, 3065 Breckinridge Ln., 459-5201, 808 Lyndon Ln., 32 7-6304, 2 11 S. Fifth St., 5401171, 86 10 Dixie Hwy., 995- 7585, 12 2 16 Shelb yville Rd., 2 45-2 2 73.

Fire fighters, it is said, eat heartily and well. It’s no coincidence, then, that Fir eFresh Bar B Q pa ys homage to local fire departments in its restaurant’s decor. T he barbecue and c ountry fixin’ s s tand comparison to the best firehouse cuisine. $ f JIMBO’S BBQ 801 K enwood Dr ., 3 75-1888. T his South End barbecue shack, an outpos t of a popular spot in Corydon, IN, offers a fine range of barbecue meats skillfully smok ed on the premises, with sauc e serv ed on the side as it should be. $ JUCY’S SMOKEHOUSE BAR-B-QUE 7626 Lagrange Rd., 2 41-582 9. Jucy’ s off ers e xceptionally good Texas-style barbecue fr om a little w ooden shack that looks jus t lik e a c ountry BBQ joint should.

Highly recommended. $$ f MARCUS’ RIBS B Y THE SLAB 701 Algonquin Pk wy., 637-5333. Long-known as Cleon’ s Rib Shack, this West End f avorite’s ne w name r eflects ne w ownership, but w e’re hearing that one important thing hasn’t changed: It ’s s till a fine plac e t o get manly spare ribs and soulful sides, inner-city style. $ MARK’S FEED S TORE 1142 2 Shelb yville Rd., 2 440140, 1514 Bar dstown Rd., 458- 1570, 10 316 Dixie Hwy., 933-7707, 513 E. IN Hw y. 131, Clarks ville, IN, 285-1998. Named for its first restaurant’s location in a f ormer f eed s tore with that do wn-home country f eel, Mark’ s impr esses with high-quality hickory-smoked pork and chicken, and rich, silken South Car olina barbecue sauc e, the y ellow mustard-based variety. $$ f OLE HICKORY PIT BAR-B-QUE 6106 Shepherdsville Rd., 968-0585. Located in an attractive house not far fr om Gener al Electric ’s Applianc e P ark, this Louisville relative of a f amous Western Kentucky barbecue pit is well worth the trip. $

PICNICATERS BBQ & CATERING 514 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 584-7427. Located across from Louisville Gardens, this place puts the hot sauce, wings and chops right in the middle of a hungry busines s district. $ f

SCOTTY’S RIBS AND MORE 14049 Shelbyville Rd., 2 44-6868. Ribs, pork, chick en a la cart e and dinners. The small East End venue moves a lot of pizzas and salads as well. $$ p SMOKEY BONES BBQ 2525 Hurstbourne Gem Ln., 491-7570. A ne wish “ concept” of the Orlandobased Dar den chain that runs Oliv e G arden, Red L obster and Bahama Br eeze, this hot Hurstbourne spot off ers good ribs in a nois y sports-bar environment that emulates a Colorado ski lodge. $$ p TONY ROMA’S 150 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 327-8500.

From the t omato tang t o a smok y Blue Ridge savor, R oma’s adv ertises its ribs as the bes t dressed in t own. Burgers, chicken and s teaks are available as w ell, but w e r ecommend the r acks and baby backs of pork and beef . $$$ p VINCE S TATEN’S OLD TIME BARBEQUE 13306 W. US 42 , 2 2 8-742 7. A uthor V ince Stat en, who literally wr ote the book on barbecue (Real Barbecue), has moved on, but his name r emains on this neighborhood joint out the r oad in Oldham County. $

19TH GREEN PUB & GRILL 1740 W illiamsburg Dr., Jeffersonville IN, (812) 284-9088. $ p f BEEF O’BRAD Y’S 2 39 Blank enbaker Pk wy., 2 542 32 2 , 562 8 Bar dstown Rd., 2 39-2 2 2 6, 10000 Brownsboro Rd., 32 7-8881, 3101 S. Sec ond St., 637-3737, 105 LaF ollette, 9 2 3-1316. If y ou think your basic sports pub is only suitable f or guy s guzzling beer, tak e another look: Beef O’Br ady’s puts the “family” in “family sports pub,” offering a wholesome environment. $ BIG D AVE’S OUTPOS T 1801 Bar dstown Rd., 4599142 . No w open in the old house at Bar dstown Road and Speed A venue r ecently v acated b y Judge Roy Bean, Big Da ve’s evokes a hint of the happy memory of the old Fat Cats that once held court her e: In similar f ashion, it ’s a casual, laidback neighborhood saloon, wher e libations and simple pub grub are the order of business. $ p f e BLUE MULE SPORT S CAFÉ 10301 Taylorsville Rd., 240-0051. Longtime buddies John O’C onnor and Jim “Mule” Riley talked for years about opening a restaurant and sports bar . Riley died bef ore their dream came true . But no w O’C onnor pr oudly presides o ver this 90-seat casual Jeff ersontown eatery and watering hole, and he has named it in affectionate memory of his friend “Mule .” $ p e BROWNIE’S “THE SHED” GRILLE & BAR 237 Whittington Pk wy., 32 6-9830 . Restaurant o wner and namesak e K eith Br own used t o hos t neighborhood gatherings in a shed at his home .

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pub and eatery. Louisville’s official home for Cincy Bengals fans, Brownie’s may be the closes t thing Hurstbourne has to a Germantown neighborhood saloon. $ p

variety of bar munchies, sandwiches and simple grilled f are plus pizza. It ’s perhaps bes t kno wn, though, for the signature Granville Burger, widely reputed as one of the bes t burgers in town. $

BUFFALO WILD WINGS (BW-3’S) 6801 Dixie Hwy., 935-1997, 3900 Shelb yville Rd., 899- 7732 , 9134 Taylorsville Rd., 499-2356, 3584 Springhurst Blvd., 394-9596, 12 901 Shelb yville Rd., 2 54-9464, 1055 Bardstown Rd., 454- 3635. As much a sports bar as a restaurant, this national franchise chain offers tasty snack -type f are, including the chain’ s trademark Buffalo chicken wings. $$ p f

GREAT AMERICAN GRILL 2 735 Critt enden Dr .

(Hilton), 6 37-2 42 4. L ocated in the L ouisville International Airport Hilt on. Salads, bur gers, pastas and sandwiches ar e a vailable f or the casual diner; main entrées include New York strip, filet of salmon and more. $ p f

CHAMPIONS SPORT S RES TAURANT 2 80 W .

Jefferson St. (L ouisville Marriott), 6 71-42 46.

Another popular option at the s triking ne w downtown Marriott, Champions pr ovides a fun, casual dining alt ernative with a K entucky sports theme—and a gallery of big-scr een televisions to keep the sports action flo wing as fr eely as the libations and upscale pub grub . $$ p f CHATTER’S BAR & GRILL Pkwy., 961-9700. $$ p f

2 745 S. Hurs tbourne

CRIBSTONE PUB 1202 Bardstown Rd., 459-3339. This tiny Bardstown Road eatery turns a neighborhood bar int o a lobs ter and s teak house , wher e fine seafood and beef is serv ed without pomp or circumstance in a setting so casual that y ou can wear your shorts and T-shirt to dine. $$$ p DELTA RESTAURANT 434 W. Market St., 584-0860.

It’s not quit e as his toric as Gideon Shry ock’s Jefferson C ounty C ourthouse around the c orner, but this popular bar and short-or der spot seems as if it has been a hangout f or la wyers and the courthouse crowd for just about as long as there’s been a Courthouse. $ p DIAMOND PUB & BILLIARD S 3814 Fr ankfort Ave., 895-7513. $ p f

HOOPS GRILL AND SPORT S BAR 12205 Westport Rd., 32 7-8002 , 6 733 Str awberry Ln., 3 75-4667.

The name sa ys it all: sports, casual dining and good things to drink all find their natural meeting place in these friendly neighborhood spots where hot wings and hoops reign supreme. $ p f JAKE’S & MR. G’S 10432 Shelbyville Rd., 244-0165 $

p

JERSEY’S CAFÉ 1515 Lynch Ln., Clarks ville, IN, 2882100. Food & Dining’s Southern Indiana office has declared this the official lunch spot, lur ed b y quality, affordable fare that goes well beyond pub grub to include an a wesome smokehouse burger and barbecued ribs so t ender, they say, that y ou can jus t tap the end of the bone on y our plat e, and the meat falls off. $ p e JIMMY AND RICHIE’S 813 Lyndon Ln., 423-7774. $$ p f JP’S PUB & GRUB 5610 Outer Loop, 966-8223. $ p f THE LIGHTHOUSE 2 02 Main St., Jeff ersonville, IN, 2 83-0077. T his lighthouse has been a beac on of casual, home c ooking and ta vern en vironment f or years. Daily specials, appetiz ers, chick en and fish baskets, salads and desserts round out the menu. $

DUTCH’S TAVERN 3922 Shelbyville Rd., 895-9004.

Do y ou lik e guitars with y our grub ? A popular half-way-home hangout f or decades in the heart of St. Matthe ws, this no-frills but all charm pub serves up a hardy plate lunch by day and amps up the action with music by night. $ p e

MACVITTIE’S 106 Sears Ave., 895-2599. An intriguing range of casual, homemade vittles, er , vitties that range from German Jaeger Schnitz el to beef s tew in a bread-loaf “bowl” highlight the bill of fare at this friendly, locally o wned St. Matthe ws spot that f or many years was home to Asiatique. $ p

FLABBY’S SCHNITZELBURG 1101 Lydia St., 637-9136.

Family-owned sinc e 195 2 , Flabb y’s is a quintessential Germantown saloon. It’s also one of the city’ s t op des tinations f or ine xpensive do wnhome eats, fr om authentic German dishes t o fantastic fried chicken on weekends. $

MICHAEL MURPHY’S RES TAURANT 701 S. Firs t St., 587-0013. This full servic e restaurant and bar has accommodated hardy thirsts and appetit es for a couple of gener ations. Despit e the Irish appeal, the food is American and lots of it. $ p

FLANAGAN’S ALE HOUSE 934 Baxt er A ve., 5853700. Gourmet pizzas, hoagies, and an enormous beer selection dr aw Highlands f olks t o this c ozy neighborhood pub . F or a lat e night pizza (the kitchen’s open until 2 a.m.), it ’s one of the bes t options in the city. $$ p FOUR KINGS CAFÉ 4642 Jennings Ln., 968-2 9 30.

Steam-table servic e f eaturing spaghetti and meatballs, lasagna and chick en attr act a hungry lunch cr owd at this casual spot, and brunch specialties are just as popular. $ p FOX & HOUND 302 Bullitt Ln., 394-7620. A “British pub” c oncept oper ated b y a W ichita, K ansasbased chain, F ox & Hound’ s ne w fr ee-standing property at Oxmoor C enter f eatures a “midcasual” menu with burgers, pizza, chicken and pot roast, in a large, classy venue with plenty of wood paneling, billiards tables and an ample supply of large-screen televisions. $$ p f GERSTLE’S PLACE 3801 Frankfort Ave., 899-3609.

A popular St. Matthe ws neighborhood ta vern since 1924. Although dining is secondary to booze and sports here, the food goes well beyond mere pub grub. $ p e GRANVILLE INN 1601 S. T hird St., 6 35-6475. A longtime gathering plac e f or U of L s tudents, faculty and f ans, this s turdy r edbrick ta vern jus t north of the univ ersity campus off ers a good 72 Summer 2006 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

HITCHING POS T INN 7314 F egenbush Ln., 2 394724. In addition t o its full bar and beer gar den, and liv ely c onversation, the Hit ching Pos t Inn offers an arr ay of pub grub , including bur gers, chicken tenders, and sandwiches. $ p

NEW DIRECTION BAR & GRILL 2 630 Chamberlain Ln., 243-8429. $ p e OSCAR’S BAR & GRILL 252 E. Market St., 581-1222. $ p e P. NUT S SPORT S BAR & GRILL 1506 Lak eshore Ct., 412 -1700. T his ne w w atering hole in Plain view boasts a friendly suburban pub atmospher e, offering bar and grill food with a sports-bar theme.

Check out its Club Oasis for a full array of cocktails and a 2 0-it em beer lis t, and enjo y dining on the oversize deck with r oom f or 140 o verlooking Plainview’s small lake. $ p f e SADDLE RIDGE S ALOON Fourth Str eet Liv e, 56 93507. $ p f e SAINT’S 131 Breckinridge Ln., 891-8883. Almos t like two r estaurants in one , Saints f eatures both a small, intimat e, candle-light ed r oom and a lar ger, happily bois terous main r oom with the look and feel of a sports bar. Saints is mostly about the bars and the music, but don’t o verlook its casual f are, from salads to pasta and excellent pizzas. $$ p e SPORTS PAGE GRILL 3701 Hopewell Rd., 263-7130 $ p e STEINERT’S GRILL & PUB 2 2 39 Charles town Rd., New Albany IN, 945-8827. This is a cross between an old f ashioned neighborhood ta vern (with an aged and cozy ambience) and a trendy sports bar.

Hearty burgers, rich soups, salads, and a full bar make this a hidden gem. $ p e SULLY’S SALOON Fourth Street Live, 585-4100. $$ p f

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TAILGATERS SPORT S BAR & GRILL 2 787 S. Flo yd St., 6 37-52 41. Billed as a pr emier des tination f or good food and lots of fun, this casual spot ne xt to Papa John’ s Stadium f eatures clas sic American favorites and seaf ood specialties, plus a full bar , TVs and an expansive game room. $ p f e THE BACK DOOR 2787 S. Floyd St., 637-5241. Billed as a premier destination for good food and lots of fun, this casual spot ne xt to Papa John’s Stadium features clas sic American f avorites and seaf ood specialties, plus a full bar , TV s and an e xpansive game room. $ p f

vegetarian selections as well as the traditional beef and chicken specialities. Ethiopian fare is made for sharing and eating with the fingers, but the y’ll gladly make forks available for the finicky. $ TERANGA AFRICAN RES TAURANT 3904 Bar dstown Rd., 458- 7172 . T his bright and sunn y spot in Buechel houses v ery friendly f olks who’ll introduce y ou t o the culinary delights of W est Africa. The sparkling v enue is on the lo w-budget side, but wher e else in t own can y ou enjo y intriguing A frican dishes while w atching Senegalese music videos on sat ellite TV? $

VIC’S CAFÉ E. Market St., New Albany, IN, 944-4338. $ WINGS N THINGS 2809 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 327-9464. $ WOODFORD RESER VE BAR & GRILLE Louisville International Airport, 363-2526. Named after local distiller Br own-Forman’s artisanal br and of Bourbon, this is the airport ’s fine-dining f acility, serving K entucky-style dishes in a sit-do wn environment. $

#1 A SIAN BUFFET 12 50 Bar dstown Rd., 451-60 33.

Not jus t another in the her d of all- you-can-eat Chinese buffets, this r ecent entry in the Mid-City Mall seats 350 , boasts a priv ate party r oom, and, says owner Steven Yuan, is the first between-thecoasts outpost of the original #1 buffet in NYC. $$

ZAZOO’S 102 Bauer Ave., 894-8030. If you’re looking for casual dining, ZaZ oo’s offers a mighty appealing option with its laid-back and w elcoming neighborhood bar feeling. The fare is simple but well prepared, and goes a bit beyond pub grub. $ p f e

A TASTE OF CHINA 1167 S. Fourth St., 585-5582. $

BLUEGRASS BREWING COMPANY 3929 Shelbyville Rd., 899- 7070, 6 36 E. Main St., 584-2 739, 2 Theater Squar e, 568-2 2 2 4. A mus t-stop destination f or beer lo vers on the national artisanal-brew tr ail, but it ’s mor e than jus t a brewpub. BBC’ s management giv es equally serious att ention t o both liquid and solid f are, making this a gr eat plac e t o s top in f or both dinner and a beer. $ p f e

ASIAN BUFFET 3813 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 945-1888, 1305 V eterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN,

2 85-8888, 3646 Mall Rd., 4 79-9989. C ompetent cookery and car eful management that ensur es buffet off erings s tay fr esh and hot mak es these buffets a good choic e among the growing crowd of all-you-can-eat Asian spots. $ p AUGUST MOON 2 2 69 L exington Rd., 456-656 9.

August Moon’ s secr et ingr edient is the culinary oversight of Chef Peng L ooi, better known as the force behind Asiatique. Housed in a soaring, open space with a Z en mas ter’s s tyle. C onsistent commitment in the kit chen and fr om the s taff makes it a t op spot f or Asian f are. A lo vely patio at the r ear aff ords an alfr esco dining e xperience overlooking shady Beargrass Creek. $$$ p f BAMBOO HOUSE 4036 Poplar L evel Rd., 451- 3113.

An old-timer among local Chinese restaurants, this Southeastern L ouisville spot ma y not off er the trendiest Asian f are, but it ’s a r eliable sour ce f or the familiar Cantonese-American standards. $ CHINA 1 123 Breckinridge Ln., 897-6511. $ CHINA BUFFET 706 E. Hwy 131, Clarksville, IN, 2888989. Chinese buffets are ubiquitous, but this one is squarely in the upper range. Regularly refreshed steam tables, att entively fried ric e, and pr operly

tastefully exciting. casually chic.

BROWNING’S BREWERY 401 E. Main St. (Slugger Field), 515-017 4. Making beautiful use of the historic r ed-brick building that houses Slugger Field, Browning’s offers first-rate brewpub beers and tas ty, inf ormal f are that r anges fr om pub grub to pastas, to pizza. $$ p f e CUMBERLAND BREW S 1576 Bar dstown Rd., 458872 7. Giving ne w meaning t o the t erm “microbrewery,” Cumberland Br ews ma y be one of the smalles t eat eries in t own. It ’s usually packed, earning its cr owds the old-f ashioned way b y pr oviding v ery good f ood, friendly service, and high-quality hand-cr afted artisan beers. $ f e RICH O’S PUBLIC HOUSE 3312 Plaza Dr., New Albany, IN, 94 9-2 804. Dec ent pizza and pub grub mak e Rich O’ s a popular hangout, and his r emarkable beer list of more than 100 selections fr om around the w orld—and locally br ewed cr aft beers— attracts beer lovers from all over. $ e

CAFÉ KILIMANJARO 649 S. F ourth St., 583-4332 .

Café Kilimanjar o sho wcases Black -heritage cuisine, offering well-prepared treats from Africa, the Caribbean and Black America r anging fr om fiery Ethiopian w ots (meat barbecue ) t o spicy Jamaican jerk cuisine to the comforting soul food of the American South. $ p f CHEZ SENEBA AFRICAN RESTAURANT 1215 Gilmore Ln., 968-865 9. Add yet another int eresting ethnic cuisine t o L ouisville’s incr easingly int ernational dining sc ene. Friendly f olks serv e gener ous portions of filling, spicy Senegalese cuisine fr om West Africa in this tiny (three-table) eatery. $ QUEEN OF SHEBA ETHIOPIAN 3315 Bardstown Rd., 459-6301. T he r egion’s only fully authentic Ethiopian r estaurant, off ering a wide selection of intriguing Ethiopian dishes, including a v ariety of

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spicy General Tso’s Chicken raise it above the runof-the-mill places typical of the genre. $ CHINA GARDEN 7309 Pr eston Hw y., 968-46 72 . A busy r estaurant with the double pleasur e of Chinese and American menu it ems. $ CHINA INN 1925 S. Fourth St., 636-2020. It’s not the posh, private Faculty Club, but this little Asian spot may be one of the mos t popular eat eries around the University of L ouisville’s Belknap Campus. It ’s generally packed with s tudents, professors, and a squadron of campus polic e so lar ge that one wonders who’s watching the campus. $ CHINA KING 3830 Ruckriegel Pkwy., 240-0500. $ CHINA KING Highlander Point Dr., Floyds Knobs, IN., 923-1288. $ CHINA SEA BUFFET 0838. $

12 689 Shelb yville Rd., 2

45-

CHINATOWN 4000 Dutchmans Ln., 896-9888, 4214 Outer L oop, 968-2 688. If y ou’re hungry, y ou can get mor e t o eat her e f or les s than jus t about anyplace else in t own, and the w eekend seaf ood buffet in particular is a deal that ’s hard to beat. $ CHINESE CHEF 2619 S. Fourth St., 634-0979. $ CHINESE EXPRESS 3228 Crums Ln., 448-1360. $ CHINESE RES TAURANT 8605 Pr eston Hw y., 9687450. $ CHONG GARDEN 10341 Dixie Hwy., 935-1628. $ CHOPSTICKS 416 E. Broadway, 589-9145. $ CHOPSTICKS HOUSE 2112 W. Broadway, 772-3231. $ CHUNG KING CHINESE AMERICAN RES TAURANT 110 E. Market St., 584-8880. $ CITY WOK 526 W. Main St., 583-7238. $ CRYSTAL CHINESE 3901 W. Market St., 776-9702. $

DOUBLE DRA GON 12 55 Gos s A ve., 6 35-5656, 318 Wallace Ave., 894-888 7. A s tandout among f astfood shopping-c enter Chinese eat eries, Double Dragon hits on all cylinders, turning out consistently well-prepared and flavorful fare. $ DOUBLE DRAGON II 12480 LaGrange Rd., 241-7766, 9901 LaGr ange Rd., 32 6-0099 , 6832 Bar dstown Rd., 231-3973, 3179 S. Second St., 367-6668. $ DOUBLE DRAGON 8 231 S. Fifth St., 58 7-8686. $ DOUBLE DRAGON 9 9501 Taylorsville Rd., 267-5353. $ DOUBLE DRAGON BUFFET 2 33 Whittington Pkwy., 339-8897. A sizable buff et in a chic Eas t End shopping s trip, off ers a good r ange of Chinese treats on its all- you-can-eat buffet. The fare seems prepared with attention and care. $ DRAGON GARDEN 2120 Bardstown Rd., 459-3311. $ DYNASTY BUFFET 2 400 Lime Kiln Ln., 339-8868.

The c ontinuing pr oliferation of look alik e, tas te alike, all-you-can-eat Chinese buffets never fails to amaze me. But I’m happ y to report that Dynas ty Buffet ranks well above the median. $$ EASTERN HOUSE 5372 Dixie Hw y., 568-2 688.

Serving Chinese and American f ood fr om the menu or the buffet. $ EGGROLL MACHINE 1216 Bardstown Rd., 459-1259.

A Highlands s taple for good r eason. This portion of the Mimosa Café does a brisk busines s. T he Sesame Chicken is one of our f avorites. $$ p EMPEROR OF CHINA 2210 Holiday Manor Shopping Center, 42 6- 1717. One of L ouisville’s f anciest and most not eworthy Chinese r estaurants, the Emperor’s quart ers ar e s tylishly s trewn acr oss multiple le vels of a f ormer suburban mo vie theater. Outstanding. $$ p EMPRESS OF CHINA 2249 Hikes Ln., 451-2500. Older sister to The Emperor of China, the Empr ess was one of L ouisville’s firs t serious, authentic upscale

Cantonese restaurants, and its f are still stands up to fancy spots in New York’s Chinatown. $$ p FIRST WOK 3967 Seventh St. Rd., 448-0588. $ GOLDEN BUDDHA 8000 Preston Hwy., 968-7700. $ GOLDEN PALACE BUFFET 161 Outer Loop, 368-2868. $ GOLDEN WALL 3201 Fern Valley Rd., 968-9717. $ GREAT WALL 2206 Brownsboro Rd., 891-8881. T his Clifton r estaurant r anks high up in the f ast-food Chinese pack. Offering steaming-hot, competently prepared and flavorful dishes. $ GREAT W OK 2 502 Pr eston Hw y., 6 34-1918. Jus t about every shopping c enter in t own has a f astfood Chinese spot, but this one s tands out, generating a buzz of w ord-of-mouth publicity about its well-crafted Chinese dishes at a bargainbasement price. $ HAPPY DRA GON 2 600 W . Br oadway, 77 8-2 573.

Catering to office and r esidential customers, this Chinese r estaurant has serv ed the W est Broadway community for many years. $ f HONG K ONG CHINESE RES TAURANT 345 Ne w Albany Plaza, New Albany, IN., 945-1818. $ HONG K ONG F AST FOOD 5312 S. T hird St., 36 7882 8. One of the man y int ernational eat eries in Iroquois Manor, this fast-food Chinese spot offers Cantonese s tandards hot and f ast and inexpensively. Check the daily specials f or an occasional intriguing item. $ JADE PALACE 1109 Herr Ln., 42 5-98 78. When I’v e got a hank ering f or brunch, I choose Chinese .

Jade Palace is a decent place for Chinese food at any time , but don’t mis s it at mid-da y Frida y through Monday, when it off ers the metr o area’s only dim sum (Chinese brunch) menu. $$ p JASMINE 1382 3 English V illa Dr ., 2 44-8896. A charming Asian eat ery, wher e y ou can enjo y familiar Chinese-American plates or indulge y our more adv enturous side with a selection of mor e unusual authentic dishes fr om the “Chinese Menu,” available on request. $ f JUMBO BUFFET 2 731 S. Hurs tbourne Pk wy., 4 950028. Housed in a good-looking dining room, high on Chinatown-style glitz and glitt er, Jumbo off ers a s tandard all- you-can-eat Chinese buff et, with a larger-than-average selection of American dishes for those who want something less exotic. $$ KING BUFFET 1801 Priority Way, 266-8886. Another in the gr owing niche of glitzy Chinese chr omeand-plastic buffets, King Buff et offers a s tandard selection of all-you-can-eat dishes. $ KING WOK 291 N. Hubbards Ln., 899-7188. Another of the city’s many tiny shopping-center fast-food Chinese eateries, King W ok offers all the f amiliar standards plus a small lunch buff et. $ LING LING 10476 Shelbyville Rd., 245-2100. Modern and efficient in its Eas t End shopping c enter location, Ling Ling is a cut abo ve f ast-food Chinese; bett er y et, it adds a f ew V ietnamese dishes to the bill of f are. $ LIU’S GARDEN 11517 Shelb yville Rd., 2 44-9898.

Small but charming, with whit e tablecloths and soft Chinese music, f amily-run Liu’ s gains our approval with fr esh, c ompetent c ookery and courteous, friendly service that makes you feel like you’re visiting a Chinese family at their home. $$ LUCKY HOUSE BUFFET 4030 Taylorsville Rd., 4591188. A fr esh idea on Asian dining, this gener ous buffet serves the menu classics from China as well as some Japanese and American entrées. $$ MANCHU W OK 7900 Shelb yville Rd. ( Oxmoor Shopping Center), 429-8207. $ NEW W ORLD BUFFET 92 2 8 W estport Rd., 42 31788. I rate this one of the city’ s best (if not quit e

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the bigges t) all- you-can-eat Chinese buff et, not only because it offers a good selection of Chinese dishes but, mor e important, because it sho ws a consistent commitment to quality. $ ONION RESTAURANT TEA HOUSE 4211 Charlestown Rd., Ne w Alban y, IN, 981-0188. Mas terful Chinese and Japanese cuisine (including magnific ent hotpots, donburi dishes, and w ooden-bucket steamed rice) set this airy restaurant apart from the horde of other Asian spots. $$ ORIENTAL HOUSE 4302 Shelb yville Rd., 89 7-1017.

One of the oldes t continuously operated Chinese restaurants in Louisville, this St. Matthews landmark moves up a not ch under ne w o wners, f eaturing both tr aditional Chinese- American and no w, authentic Cantonese. $ p ORIENTAL STAR 4212 Bishop Ln., 452-9898. A longtime area favorite in this hea vy traffic lunch ar ea.

This es tablishment is quit e good with L o Mein Noodles, and Sweet and Sour Chicken. $ PANDA CHINESE RES TAURANT 9543 US 42., 2286400. $ PEKING CITY 3571 Springhurst Blvd., 425-0188. The regular menu f eatures Chinese-r estaurant standards. If y ou have a y en for the e xotic, see if you can get the authentic T aiwanese menu—an intriguing r egional cuisine ne w t o L ouisville, but not always offered to non-Chinese. $ QUICK WOK 801 W. Broadway, 584-6519. $ ROYAL GARDEN 5717 Preston Hwy., 969-3788, 6801 Dixie Hw y., 9 37-042 8, 5316 Bar dstown Rd., 4 918228. $ SESAME CHINESE RES TAURANT 9409 Shelbyville Rd., 339-7000. Not jus t another shopping-c enter Chinese r estaurant, this Eas t End eat ery has provided some of the bes t fine-dining Chinese meals I’ve enjoyed in Louisville. $$ p

SARI S ARI FILIPINO CUISINE 2 339 Fr ankfort Ave., 894-0585. L ourdes, the f ormer da y chef at El Mundo, and Pet e Chamberlain, El Mundo’ s founder, have split from the popular Mexican spot to open the city’s sole Filipino eatery on the same block of Fr ankfort, in the tin y s torefront briefly occupied b y Lazy Jane’ s. Y ou can sample y our way through the bold tropical flavors of this island cuisine on a budget, as e verything in the menu is well under $10. $

BENDOYA SUSHI BAR 2 17 S. Fifth St., 581-0 700.

Adding int ernational flair t o its do wntown neighborhood, Bendo ya Sushi Bar is a genuine , serious sushi bar in a s torefront jus t acr oss the street from the courthouse. $ FUJI J APANESE S TEAKHOUSE 3576 Springhurs t Blvd., 339-1978, 12 905 Shelb yville Rd., 2 53-00 36.

Part of the fun of sitting at the sushi bar is that you get t o w atch the chef at w ork. P ut in y our order, then sit back, sip y our t ea while the artis t creates edible delights. T his suburban sushi bar does the job well. $$ p ICHIBAN S AMURAI 1510 Lak e Shor e Ct., 4 12 -3339.

This lar ge Japanese-f armhouse building housed Benihana f or man y y ears. Ne w management offers similar delights, with the tr aditional slic eand-dice f ood sho w and good sushi. Bes t deal, while the off er lasts: All-you-can-eat sushi nightly until the karaoke starts at 9 p.m. $$$ p KIMIS A SIAN BIS TRO 1915 Blank enbaker Pk wy., 2 36-1915. R estaurateur John Chung is amiable host at this ne w Eas t End v enture, an upscale

Asian bistro that blends tr aditional Japanese fare with Chinese and K orean fla vors, including such Pacific Rim dishes as sushi, Chilean sea bas s with sweet mango and t orched salmon in par chment paper. $$ p KOBE S TEAK HOUSE 301 S. Indiana A ve., Jeffersonville IN, 2 80-8500 . Southern Indiana’ s first serious Japanese r estaurant is dr awing crowds with its e xceptional sushi bar, with skilled and friendly chefs who can be relied on to fashion fresh and tasty bites that are just about certain to please. $$$ p MAIDO ESSENTIAL JAPANESE 1758 Frankfort Ave., 894-8775. Not jus t another sushi bar , c ool and stylish Maido is L ouisville’s firs t and only “izakaya”-style r estaurant in the s tyle of K ansai, the r egion surr ounding Japan’ s sec ond city , Osaka. It’s also a sake bar, pouring a good variety of artisanal rice wine. $$ f OSAKA SUSHI BAR 2039 Frankfort Ave., 894-9501.

This bright and cheery Japanese r estaurant and sushi bar is named after Japan’s second largest city.

Local sushi aficionados sa y it ’s los t a s tep sinc e the departure of founding chef James Lae, but it’s still a decent neighborhood Japanese spot. $$ RAW SUSHI L OUNGE 52 0 S. F ourth St., 585-5880 .

Raw mak es good use of hip quart ers in a glitzy renovation of the old Marmaduke Building (next to the Seelbach). Diners ma y choose fr om a br oad selection of c ompetent sushi and Japanese f air, plus fine int ernational seafood dishes at dinner , in a sophisticated lounge atmosphere. $$$ p f e SAKURA BL UE 4600 Shelb yville Rd., 89 7-3600.

Located in elegant, upscale quart ers in a St. Matthews shopping c enter, Sak ura Blue—dir ect descendant of the old, popular Bonsai—r anks among the city’s top sushi bars. $$

SHAH’S MONGOLIAN GRILL Stonybrook Shopping Center, 4 93-02 34. Thirteenth C entury Mongol warriors used t o turn their s teel shields t o use as frying pans over the campfire, using their swords as spoons. Sahn”s carries their spirit f orward. This allyou-can-eat buffet is fun, and the f ood is fine. $$ p SHANGHAI RESTAURANT 526 S. Fifth St. 568-8833. $ SICHUAN GARDEN 9850 Linn Station Rd., 42 66767. One of m y f avorite Chinese r estaurants in Louisville and another that has s tood the t est of time, Sichuan G arden offers high-end Chinat own style and w ell-made dishes, plus a f ew T hai specialties to spice up the bill of f are. $ WOK EXPRES S 2 34 W. Br oadway, 583-8988. T his corner spot has housed a v ariety of r estaurants over the years. The latest tenant isn’t the fanciest, but it might be one of the mos t affordable. $ WONTON EXPRES S 3000 Hik es Ln., 45 2 -2 646.

Traditional Chinese f are. F amily-owned-andoperated, this popular neighborhood es tablishment has enjo yed a s teady patr onage f or seventeen years. $ YANG KEE NOODLE 7900 Shelbyville Rd. (Oxmoor Center), 42 6-0800 . T his locally o wned and operated Oxmoor spot is c olorful and s tylish. It offers an intriguing arr ay of appealing noodle and rice dishes fr om all o ver Asia with f ast-food efficiency and pric es happily mat ched b y sitdown restaurant quality and style. $ f YEN CHING 1818 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-3581. $ YOU-CARRYOUT-A 1551 E. Tenth St., Jeff ersonville, IN, 2 88-8313, 82 7 Eas tern Blv d., Clarks ville, IN, 282-8881, 3308 Plaza Dr., 944-9866. $

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SAPPORO J APANESE GRILL & SUSHI 1706 Bardstown Rd., 4 79-5550. T rendy, e ven glitzy , with har d-edged indus trial dec or—and mos t important, e xcellent f ood—Sapporo r anks in m y ratings as the city’ s No . 1 spot f or sushi and Japanese fare. $$$ p SHOGUN J APANESE S TEAK HOUSE 9026 Taylorsville Rd., 4 99-5700, 4 110 Hampt on Lak e Way, 394-0123. Shogun’s decor is attractive, and quality f ood and servic e mak e it a pleasant dining des tination. It ’s unthr eatening enough t o appeal t o those who find e xotic cuisine “challenging,” but good enough t o satisfy jus t about anyone who craves a Japanese dinner or a bite of sushi. $$$ p TOKYO JAPANESE RESTAURANT 2415C Lime Kiln Ln., 339- 7171. It ’s appealing, pleasant in atmosphere and friendly in service, and most important, this East End sushi bar serv es excellent Japanese treats, pr epared with car e and flair fr om highquality, impeccably fresh ingredients. $$ TRAN’S JAPANESE STEAK HOUSE 4317 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 94 1-02 00. Southern Indiana is catching up with the L ouisville side of the Ohio in its selection of Japanese r estaurants, and Tran offers yet another estimable Hoosier option. Tran permits the mor e adv enturous diner t o e xperiment with the jo ys of sushi, while mor e cautious eaters can s tick with t empura or enjo y the slic eand-dice show at the Japanese grill. $$

ARIRANG 12 567 Shelb yville Rd., 2 44-9838. F or many y ears a hidden je wel in the Buechel ar ea, this fine K orean r estaurant-plus-sushi-bar reopened r ecently in the f ormer quart ers of Oriental Express in the Middletown area. $ p KIM’S A SIAN GRILLE 813 E. Mark et St., 595- 702 5.

This lo vable little K orean and P an-Asian eat ery occupies unimposing quart ers on a gritty urban block eas t of do wntown. Despit e its do wnscale look, y ou w on’t w ant t o mis s its e xtensive selection of K orean and Japanese f avorites. Hot and sour soup may be the city’s best. $$ f KOREANA II 5009 Preston Hwy., 968-9686. One of the city’ s f ew r estaurants de voted entir ely t o authentic Korean fare, Koreana is w orth a special trip f or this ethnic cuisine that off ers a hearty , spicy alternative to the more familiar Chinese. $$ LEE’S KOREAN RESTAURANT 1941 Bishop Ln., 4569714. T his little spot has been a secr et sinc e the ’70s, and it jus t k eeps on going. W alk int o what looks lik e a diner in an offic e building, but push past the c ounter t o the back r oom, wher e y ou’ll find gener ous heaps of r eally authentic K orean food for next to nothing. $$

MAI’S THAI RES TAURANT 1411 E. T enth St., Jeffersonville, IN, 282-0198. With a broad range of well-prepared and authentic T hai dishes, Mai’ s is the eat ery t o beat among the metr o ar ea’s T hai restaurants. For both authenticity and quality , it ’s right up there with the top Thai places I’ve enjoyed in New York, San Francisco and Seattle. $ SALA THAI 9114 T aylorsville Rd. (St ony Br ook Shopping Center), 493-3944. Fine and fancy, Sala Thai off ers L ouisville an upscale T hai alt ernative, presenting ethnic f are in a s tylish setting that places it among the bes t, and c ertainly the mos t upscale, of the city’s cadre of Thai eateries. $$ p THAI CAFÉ 2 2 2 6 Holida y Manor , 42 5-4815. Y ou’ll find this small café tuck ed int o a c orner of the “Holiday Manor W alk.” Owner Cha vantee Sno w

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and her f amily off er a small but w ell-prepared selection of authentic T hai dishes at v ery reasonable prices. $ THAI SIAM 3002 Bar dstown Rd., 458-68 71.

Louisville’s first Thai restaurant, this Gardiner Lane spot has built a lo yal audienc e o ver the y ears, perhaps r esponding t o its r egular visit ors’ preferences with f ood that ’s a bit on the tame side for Thai. $$ THAI SMILE 5 5800 Preston Hwy., 961-9018. The “5” represents the number of r estaurants in this Frankfort-based mini-chain, which has r estaurants in K entucky, Tennessee and Indiana. T he “Smile” represents my reaction to its simple but very well prepared T hai f are. Don’t ask f or the fiv e-chilepepper heat unless you really mean it! $ THAI TASTE 1977 Br ownsboro Rd., 89 7-7682 . T he owner-host of this friendly , casual spot in Crescent Hill had a r estaurant in Bangk ok before moving t o L ouisville, and his e xperience sho ws.

The w armth of his w elcome—and the quality of the food—make Thai Taste special. $

ANNIE CAFÉ 308 W. Woodlawn, 36 3-4847. Annie Café r anks not jus t as one of m y f avorite Vietnamese restaurants, but one the city’s best of any variety, particularly when v alue and pric e are taken into account. Authentic Vietnamese food is made with care and served with pride. $ CAFÉ MIMOS A 12 16 Bar dstown Rd., 458-2 2 33.

Dating back t o the ‘80s as the city’ s first serious restaurant in the Fr ench-Vietnamese tradition, its current management s till offers a short selection of good Vietnamese food plus Chinese-American fare, as w ell as one of the city’ s more interesting sushi bars. $ p LEMONGRASS CAFÉ 1019 Bardstown Rd., 238-3981, 11606 Shelb yville Rd., 2 44-7110, 106 F airfax A ve., 893-7757. L emongrass Café off ers an appealing blend of V ietnamese, T hai and Chinese f are in a simple setting that tr anscends an ob viously lo w budget with style and grace. $ VIETNAM KIT CHEN 5339 Mitscher A ve., 36 3-5154.

This little South End s torefront is w ell w orth seeking out. T he chef goes be yond the or dinary, preparing authentic Vietnamese dishes of unusual subtlety and flavor. I have yet to be disappointed with the quality of the f ood or service. $ ZEN GARDEN 2 2 40 Fr ankfort A ve., 895-9114. A vegetarian restaurant must pass one simple t est: at the end of the meal, I mus t not miss meat. Zen Garden pas ses this t est with flying w ok and chopsticks. $ f

BEHAR CAFÉ 5600 National T urnpike, 368-5658.

This shopping-c enter s torefront has bec ome a popular aft er-work gathering spot f or the city’ s growing c ommunity of immigr ants fr om Bosnia, for whom it ’s a c omfortable place to get a drink, a sausage, and feel at home. $ DJULI 5312 S. T hird St., 368-5199 . Bosnian f are is the specialty in this tin y spot in the incr easingly international culinary smor gasbord at Ir oquois Manor shopping center. Bosnian immigrants appear to be the primary clientele, but everyone’s welcome to discover this hearty Yugoslavian cuisine. $

ERIKA’S GERMAN RESTAURANT 9301 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy. 4 99-882 2 . F or a city with a s trong German heritage, L ouisville is w oefully short on authentic

German r estaurants, but this genuinely Germanic eatery attracts hungry crowds to Hurstbourne. Take care not to miss its former fast-food quarters just off I-64 local access ramp. $$ GASTHAUS 4812 Brownsboro Center, 899-7177. The Greipel f amily c omes s traight fr om Ba varia t o Eastern Louisville with Gasthaus, a destination for local lovers of Germanic f are. T he setting has as authentic a f eeling as the hearty and delicious German dishes here. $$$

BRENDAN’S 3921 Shelbyville Rd., 895-1212. For many years the home of the venerable Maier’s Tavern in St. Matthe ws, ne w o wners Tom O’Shea (also of Flannigan’s and O’Shea’ s in the Highlands ) has done a gr eat job of r e-imagining this Eas t End landmark with a new, upscale feel, more gourmetstyle dining options and an in viting bar. $$ p e IRISH ROVER 2319 Frankfort Ave., 899-3544, 117 E. Main St, LaGr ange, 2 2 2 -2 2 86. A w arm and welcoming pub with an authentic Irish accent, this is a delightful plac e for a tall glas s of Guinnes s, a snack and a bit of Irish music. I r ecommend the fish and chips. $ p f MOLLY MAL ONE’S 933 Baxt er A ve., 4 73-12 2 2 . A carefully c onstructed r eplica of a modern urban Irish pub, Molly Malone’s is worthy addition to the city’s eating and drinking sc ene, as authentically Irish as the Wearin’ o’ the Green. $$ p f e O’SHEA’S TRADITIONAL IRISH PUB 956 Baxt er Ave., 589-7373. A steady schedule of music, and an as sortment of beers ma y be tr aditionally Irish, but the food here is mainstream American pub grub , from the chees y fries t o the Rueben sandwich. $$ p f e SHENANIGAN’S IRISH GRILL 1611 Norris Pl., 4543919. Not just a neighborhood tavern (although it’s a fine neighborhood ta vern), Irish-ac cented Shenanigan’s goes an extra step with an estimable selection of memorable burgers. $ p f e

ALLEY CATS 962 Baxter Ave., 561-1002. You’ve got to be bold t o open a pizz eria in a neighborhood that has a half-do zen of ’em already, but the ne w Alley Cats bos ts a s trong heritage , its o wners having f ormerly run the e xcellent Brick Ov en in Plainview. This new spot’s late-night hours make it a natur al gathering plac e f or the Baxt er entertainment zone. $ p f AMICI´ 316 Ormsby Ave., 637-3167. This history-steeped redbrick Old L ouisville building is t oo pr etty t o stay v acant f or long. F ollowing the closing of Central P ark Café and 316 Ormsb y, Shar on and Scott Risinger , o wners of BBC on F ourth and former owners of Third Avenue Café, now preside over this in viting new Italian eat ery that brings a touch of Tuscany to Old Louisville. $$ p f ANGELINA’S CAFÉ 1701 UPS Dr ., 32 6-5555. Y ou don’t ha ve t o be an Italian gr andfather t o pla y bocce, now that ther e are several venues around town f or this amiable game . T he six -court suburban Gotcha Bocce, run by sportscaster Bob Valvano, also houses this casual all-Italian eat ery, with dishes based on Bob’s family recipes. $ BUCA DI BEPPO 2 051 S. Hurs tbourne Pk wy., 4 932426. Buca di Beppo’s recipe has all the necessary ingredients: huge portions of excellent food served with flair and the Buca sc ene is fun, a c onscious parody of the e xuberant dec or of f amily ItalianAmerican restaurants of the 1950s. $$ p BURKO’S NEW Y ORK 2 781 Jeff erson C enter W ay, Jeffersonville, IN, (812) 284-0043. Curt Burk o, the www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Summer 2006 77

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Brooklyn nativ e who s tarted Southern Indiana’ s popular New York Capri Pizza has left that venture and now operates this ne w spot in Jeff ersonville.

Excellent pizza, pas ta and other Italian- American dishes are made fresh to order $$ f CARRABBA’S ITALIAN GRILL 617 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 412-2218. Carrabba’s isn’t y our ordinary suburban shopping-center fr anchise eat ery. T his plac e dramatically exceeds expectations. From warmed bread dishes with quality oliv e oil t o firs t-rate Italian-American fare at reasonable prices. $$ p f COME BACK INN 909 Swan St., 627-1777, 415 Spring St., Jeff ersonville IN, 2 85- 1777. W ith both its branches located in urban neighborhoods, C ome Back Inn looks pr etty much lik e an y other neighborhood saloon. But unlik e mos t L ouisville neighborhood saloons, this one houses a f amily Italian spot that w ouldn’t be out of plac e in Chicago or Brooklyn. $ p FERD GRISANTI 10212 Taylorsville Rd., 267-0050. An East End landmark f or 30 y ears, Ferd Grisanti’s is as comfortable as a close friend’ s home. Friendly and unpr etentious hospitality , the quiet but not staid atmospher e, and the fine Italian f ood prompts the c omment, “T hey do e verything so well, and they make it look so easy.” $$$ p LUIGI’S 702 W. Main St., 589-0005. If y ou think one pizza is pretty much like another, you may not have sampled Ne w Y ork City -style pizza, a tr eat that you’ll find on jus t about e very s treet c orner ther e, but only Luigi’s offers in its authentic form here. $ MARTINI ITALIAN BISTRO 4021 Summit Plaza Dr., 3949797. T he American-ac cented Italian f are at this Ohio-based chain might be a little closer to Bayonne, New Jersey than Florence, but it ’s good, featuring a short but div erse selection of hearty pas tas, pizzas and Italian-style entrées. Martini’s quality has quickly built a loyal crowd of regulars. $$ p f MELILLO’S 82 9 E. Mark et St., 540-99 75. Adjacent t o the locally o wned and oper ated Felice Vineyards on Eas t Mark et, Melillo’ s off ers hearty and delicious home-s tyle Italian- American f are—and you can enjoy it with a glas s of vino. $ p f OLD SPAGHETTI FACTORY 235 W. Market St., 5811070. One of the original v entures of this national firm. Bright and nois y, it offers well-made if basic Italian family fare and dishes it out for surprisingly low prices. $$ p THE OLIVE GARDEN 1320 Hurstbourne Pkwy., 3397190. T he t op pr operty of the Orlando-based Darden chain, Oliv e G arden now operates more than 500 pr operties and bills itself as the leading Italian r estaurant in the casual dining industry. Hearty pastas of all shapes and sauces, appetizers and c ombo platt ers all carry the Italian theme. $$ p PESTO’S IT ALIAN RES TAURANT 566 S. Fifth St., 584-0567. Offic es f or blocks ar ound empty int o this bus tling Italian eat ery f or w eekday lunches featuring hearty platt ers of lasagna, z esty salads, red wine and ic ed tea. On Satur days, the kit chen switches over to a special Persian menu. $ PORCINI 2 730 Fr ankfort A ve., 894-8686. An expanded dining room and a stylish alfresco patio facing busy Frankfort Ave. make Porcini’s an even more popular des tination, a plac e t o see and be seen—and, while y ou’re at it, enjo y a drink and a decent Italian-American dinner. $$$ p PRIMO 445 E. Market St., 583-1808. Restaurateur Bim Deitrich has been a leader in the city’ s restaurant scene since the 1970s, and this eff ort may be his best y et. W ell-crafted Italian specialties r ange from pizzas and pasta to steak Florentine, with a fine, all-Italian wine lis t t o go along; all serv ed with panache in sleek quart ers dominat ed b y a towering white-tile pizza oven. $$$ p 78 Summer 2006 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

RAY PARRELLA’S ITALIAN CUISINE 2311 Frankfort Ave., 899-55 75. Old-f ashioned Italian- American family fare is served up with a w arm and casual welcome at Ray Parella’s, the latest venture of a family that ’s been pleasing locals f or a generation. $ f ROCKY’S IT ALIAN GRILL 715 W . Riv erside Dr ., Jeffersonville IN, 2 82 - 3844, 10 2 06 W estport Rd., 339-0808. Now with a second location in Louisville, this longtime Southern Indiana f avorite earns its popularity with fine pizzas, a good selection of bottled beers and a select choic e of ItalianAmerican entrées, with a great view of the city from its riverside location. $ p f ROMANO’S MA CARONI GRILL 401 S. Hurs tbourne Pkwy., 42 3-9 2 2 0. T he Italian-s tyle menu at this casual, Dallas-based f amily chain includes appetizers, salads, pastas, veal and desserts. Chefs entertain while creating wood-fired pizzas. $$ p SPAGHETTI SHOP 4657 Out er L oop, 96 9-5545, 2 669 Charles town Rd., Ne w Alban y, IN, 9445400. Bak ed pas ta dishes, subs, salads and appetizers are prepared while you wait. $ STEVE-O’S IT ALIAN KIT CHEN 42 05 W . Hw y. 146, LaGrange, KY, 222-0300. Outstanding pizzas and fine family-style Italian-American dishes make this casual eatery just off I-71 at Buckner w ell worth a special trip out from the city. $ STRATTO’S 318 W. L ewis & Clark Pk wy., Clarks ville, IN, 945- 3496. Sam Anderson—kno wn t o locals from his Sam’s Food & Spirits—offers a full dinner menu with ac cents from all Italy’ s regions, plus a good wine lis t to match. Stratto’s expanded 140seat patio is a popular place on summer evenings. $$ p f e VOLARE 2300 Frankfort Ave., 894-4446. The name evokes Sinatr a, pas ta with t omato sauc e and candles in Chianti bottles, but stylish Volare kicks that image up a not ch. Chef Dallas McG arity and host Majid Ghavami are working hard to position Volare as the city’ s t op spot f or sua ve Italian dining. $$$ p f WILLIE’S ITALIAN 8533 Terry Rd., 933-1080. $

DE LA T ORRE’S 1606 Bar dstown Rd., 456-4 955.

From C entral Spain, authentic Cas tilian f ood ranging from tapas t o a memor able paella mak e this Highlands s tandby a unique e xperience reminiscent of dining on a squar e in Madrid. $$$ LA BODEGA 1604 Bar dstown Rd., 456-4 955. Ne xtdoor t o the e xcellent De La T orre’s Spanish restaurant, La Bodega off ers diners the city’s most authentic Spanish-s tyle tapas bar , f eaturing the small bites originally invented in the out door cafés of Jerez. $$ p f PALERMO VIEJO 1359 Bar dstown Rd., 456-646 1.

This eatery’s name may sound Italian, but is, in fact, Louisville’s only sour ce of Ar gentinian cuisine .

Steaks sear ed on authentic parrillada char coal grills ar e a primary dr aw, but ther e’s e xcellent chicken, seafood and much more. $$ p f

INDIA PALACE 9424 Shelbyville Rd., 394-0490. This longtime local Indian r estaurant, originally on Bardstown R oad and no w housed in this e xoticlooking East End building that has housed a s tring of well-known eateries, is a contender for the city’s top Indian spot. T he expansive lunch buffet is well handled and a particularly good v alue. $$ f KASHMIR INDIAN RES TAURANT 12 85 Bar dstown Rd., 4 73-8765. One of the city’ s mos t popular Indian restaurants, Kashmir is casual, neither posh nor expensive, and it produces an extensive menu of seemingly authentic Indian f are. $$ f

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SHALIMAR INDIAN RES TAURANT 182 0 S. Hurstbourne Pk wy., 4 93-8899. Modern and sleek in appearance, modest in price, this restaurant has become the patriar ch of local Indian r estaurants.

With a substantial lunch buffet and a full r ange of dinner items, it has built a lo yal clientele. $ p

AL WATA N 3713 Klondik e Ln., 454-4406. Clas sic Arabic dishes home-cooked by friendly people in a cozy environment. That’s the recipe that makes Al Watan a des tination f or lo vers of fine Middle Eastern fare. $ CAFÉ 360 1582 Bar dstown Rd., 4 73-8694. T he latest in a long series of eat eries in this pleasant Highland’s building off ers an eclectic and international menu, with Southern fried catfish and Indian lamb biry ani in immediat e juxtaposition. You can get it all, diner-s tyle, jus t about 24/7. $ p f MARRAKECH 1001 Bardstown Rd., 454-4407. This tiny new Highlands spot is strategically situated to offer quick and aff ordable sustenance along the Bar dstown-Baxter ent ertainment s trip. In addition t o the usual Middle Eas tern goodies, look f or a f ew intriguing Mor occan dishes including occasional tagines. $ GRAPE LEAF 2 2 17 Fr ankfort A ve., 89 7-1774. Y et another Middle Eas tern eat ery, y et another good ine xpensive sour ce of f ood on Fr ankfort Avenue. $ f OMAR’S GYRO 969 Baxter Ave., 454-4888. $ PITA DELIGHT S 1616 Grins tead Dr., 56 9-112 2 . T his Near Eas tern eat ery in the Highlands off ers a splendid mix of gyr os, f elafel and other pitabased goodies. $ f

SAFFRON’S 131 W . Mark et St., 584- 7800. Owner Majid Ghavami has ele vated this Persian (Ir anian) restaurant f ar be yond a mer e ethnic eat ery.

Stylish dec or, an intriguingly e xotic menu, and a level of car eful, pr ofessional servic e w orthy of a white-tablecloth dining room. Saffron’s has added a satellite operation, SAFFRON’S BUFFET, 558 S. Fifth St., 58 7-8679, where you can enjo y Persian delicacies on a quick, aff ordable all- you-can-eat lunch-only buffet. $$$ p SAFIER MEDITERRANEAN DELI 641 S. F ourth St., 585-112 5. You can get s tandard American f are at this w elcoming do wntown quick -eats spot, but who’d do that when y ou can enjo y such appetizing Arabian delights as hummus, mutabal, falafels and the gyros-like (only better) shawarma beef-on-pita sandwich. $ f SHIRAZ MEDITERRANEAN GRILL 2018 Brownsboro Rd., 891-8854. Almos t hidden in a r ow of undersize fr ame huts along L ower Br ownsboro just west of Clifton, this six-table spot offers some of the mos t authentic Persian (Ir anian) c ooking you’ll find an ywhere, including char-grilled kebabs, fine pitas and cracker-like lavash bread. $

CAJUN KITCHEN 4645 Outer Loop, 964-5200. $ GUMBO A GO-GO 2 109 Frankfort Ave., 896-4046, 10004 Taylorsville Rd., 261-7986. This small eatery that sits w ell back fr om Fr ankfort Ave. gained a sparkling new personality that out guns a c ouple of lacklus ter predecessors in the spac e. Casually informal and v ery aff ordable, with all dishes priced at $5. W e’re talking about serious Louisiana Cr eole and Cajun c ookery, dispensed with a friendly Ne w Orleans ac cent amid downscale Mardi Gras colors. $ f

JOE’S OK BAYOU 9874 Linn Station Rd., 426- 1320, 4308 Charles town Rd., Ne w Alban y, IN, 9482 080. Fine , filling and authentic L ouisiana-style fare is the dr aw at Joe’ s. A length y menu and bayou fishing-shack dec or sho wcases authentic Cajun and Creole chow. $$ p

BAHAMA BREEZE 104 Oxmoor C ourt, 423-9040.

It’s a long w ay fr om Oxmoor C enter t o the Florida K eys, but this chain-oper ated eat ery does a good job of bridging the gap , offering a happy beach-joint experience without the ocean view. Bahama Breeze is stylish and upscale, with a good selection of island f are and a gr eat bar. $$ p f e HAVANA RUMBA 4115 Oechsli Ave., 897-1959 A true taste of Old Ha vana. Hos ts F ernando & Chris tina Martinez and Mar cos L orenzo pr eside o ver this bright, in viting Cuban r estaurant, r ecently renovated t o double its dining spac e and add a hopping mojit o bar. Bountiful servings of Cuban fare as good as I’ve enjoyed in Key West or Miami have earned Ha vana Rumba a plac e on m y short list of local f avorites. No w with an e xpanded menu, there is even more to love. $ p f TASTE OF J AMAICA 2 017 Br ownsboro Rd., 8961055. This stylish space in Clifton has a new ethnic flavor, thanks to co-owner Warren Glave, who has returned authentic Jamaican cuisine t o a city t oo long starved for a taste of jerk chicken, curry goat and other such Caribbean goodies. $

BAZO’S FRESH MEXICAN GRILL 323 Wallace Ave., 899-9600. Baz o’s Fr esh Me xican Grill is an inexpensive, casual spot where you’ll find the best

India Palace Fine Indian Cuisine You’ll feel as if you have stepped into the exotic Far East.

Enjoy Tandoori (Bar-B-Q) Chicken, Lamb, Seafood...Curries, Rice, Freshly Baked Breads and more.

All you can eat Daily Luncheon Buffet Extensive A’la Cart Dinner Menu Cater for Parties Lunch: Mon. – Sat. 11:00a–2:30p Sunday 12:00p–3:00p Dinner: Mon. – Thur. 5:00p–10:00p Fri. and Sat. 5:00p–10:30p Sunday 5:00p–9:00p

9424 Shelbyville Road Louisville, KY 40222 (502) 394-0490 www.indiapalaceky.com www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Summer 2006 79

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fish tacos this side of San Diego as the highlight of its simple fast-food Mexican fare. $ f CANCUN MEXICAN RES TAURANT 9904 Linn Station Rd., 327-0890. $ e DON PABLOS MEXICAN KIT CHEN 940 E. L ewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 284-1071. Born in North Texas and no w based in A tlanta, this Me xicanAmerican chain, off ers full bar servic e and a variety of dishes that r ange fr om sizzling f ajitas with portabello mushr oom, beef or chick en t o crisp salads tossed in a fajita shell. $$ p EL CAPORAL 7319 Pr eston Hw y., 96 9-9693, 2 2 09 Meadow Dr ., 4 73-7840, 1901 Blank enbaker Pk wy., 515 E. High way 131, Clarks ville, IN, 2 82 - 7174.

Louisville’s growing Mexican-American community has f ostered a happ y tr end: e xcellent, authentic Mexican food. El Caporal bridges the gap between the Latino and Anglo communities. $ p EL MUNDO 2 345 Fr ankfort A ve., 899-99 30. T his crowded, noisy little Cr escent Hill s torefront offers creative r enditions of Me xican r egional specialties that mak e mos t diners w ant t o y ell “Olé!” T he setting ma y lack the tr endy flair of Rick Ba yless’s Frontera Grill in Chicago , but the f are mines a similar vein and does so nearly as w ell. $ p f EL NOP AL 9473 W estport Rd., 32 7-6551, 11336 Preston Hwy., 961-9851, 10500 Watterson Tr., 2665956, 5444 Ne w Cut Rd., 380-844 7. As sociated with the same f amily that runs the smaller El Nopalito, ( or “ the little cactus”), El Nopal (“ the cactus”) off ers similar delicious, authentic and inexpensive Mexican fare in somewhat larger and more comfortable surroundings. $ p f EL NOP ALITO 402 8 T aylorsville Rd., 458- 72 78, 6300 Bardstown Rd., 231-42 49, 2319 Brownsboro Rd., 89 3-9880. T his modes t little eat ery used t o be a Taco Bell, but y ou’ll never find c omidas like this at the Bell! Run b y a f amily from Mexico, it ’s truly authentic and delicious. $ p f

EL PASO 700 Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville, IN, (812) 2 80-0032 . Although it ’s more Mexican-American than har d-core ethnic Me xican, El R ey earns m y recommendation for tasty fare, cordial service in a pleasant f ast-Mexican-food en vironment, and affordable prices. $ p f EL REY MEXICAN RES TAURANT 2 918 Hik es Ln., 454-652 0. Although it ’s more Mexican-American than har d-core ethnic Me xican, El R ey earns m y recommendation for tasty fare, cordial service in a pleasant f ast-Mexican-food en vironment, and affordable prices. $ f EL RODEO MEXICAN RES TAURANT 9070 Dixie Hwy., 995-8722. At El Rodeo, you’ll find a blend of Tex-Mex and other Latin American clas sics fr om salty margaritas to sweet sopapillas. $$ EL TARASCO 6100 Cr estwood Station, 2 41-2 32 0, 542 5 Ne w Cut Rd., 368-562 8, 110 F airfax A ve., 895-8010, 9901 LaGrange Rd., 326-9373. Add El Tarasco t o the happ y ne w genr e of r estaurants run b y Latinos and off ering authentic Me xican food and atmospher e, but that r each out t o Anglos and mak e it eas y t o enjo y a South-ofthe-Border culinary adv enture without compromise. $ EL TORO MEXICAN RESTAURANT 1810 Hurstbourne Parkway, 4 91-72 72 . One of the t op Me xican restaurants in the metro, El Toro earns my recommendation f or f ood, servic e and en vironment.

Tex-Mex dishes ar e fine , but sa ve r oom f or the authentic Mexican seafood specialties. $ p f ERNESTO’S 10602 Shelb yville Rd., 2 44-8889, 62 01 Dutchmans Ln., 89 3-92 97, 77 07 Pr eston Hw y., 962 -5380, 46 32 A S. Hurs tbourne Pk wy., 7 00 Riverside Dr ., Clarks ville, IN, 2 80-00 32 . One of the firs t of the mor e authentic locally -owned Mexican r estaurant gr oups, Ernes to’s r emains consistently reliable. From the crisp y home-fried chips t o filling Me xican main c ourses and tas ty desserts, it ’s a w orthy des tination f or good Mexican food and excellent value in an enjoyable atmosphere. $ p f e FIESTA TIME MEXICAN GRILL Dr., 425-9144. $ p

1132 0 Maple Br ook

HABANEROS 1415 Br oadway, Clarks ville, IN, 2 808555. T his lar ge, c olorful Me xican r estaurant is becoming a Southern Indiana des tination because they do just about everything right, from excellent f ood, of c ourse, t o c old, o versize margaritas and delicious guacamole made fr esh for you at tableside. $ p f e

LOS AZTECAS “The Best Mexican Food & Margaritas in Louisville” 530 WEST MAIN

502.561.8535 Mon.-Thur. 11am-10pm • Fri. 11am-11pm Sat. Noon-11pm • Sun. Noon-9pm

www.losaztecas.net

KY T ACO 6911 Shepher dsville Rd., 962 -85 2 6.

Traditional Mexican fare from the Ramirez family. $ LA BAMBA 1237 Bardstown Rd., 451-1418. La Bamba boasts of its “burritos as big as your head.” It may be L ouisville’s mos t s tartling case of an eat ery that is more than it appears t o be, and that goes for both quality and quantity. Franchised and fastfoodish, it pleasantly surprises with genuine Mexican fare and Latino flair. $ LA HERRADURA 615 Eas tern Blv d., Clarks ville, IN., 2 80-8650. Is it pos sible t o enjo y truly authentic tacqueria cuisine when the management speaks mostly Spanish and you speak only English? These friendly f olks mak e it simple: a handy bi-lingual menu and a smiling staff make you feel at home.$ LA MONARCA 6501 Shepherdsville Rd., 969-7938. $ LA PERLA DEL P ACIFICO 2 840 Goose Cr eek Rd., 339-7670. Y ou ma y w ant t o bring a Spanish phrase book to this East End spot, where English is sometimes t entative. It ’s w orth the eff ort though, f or e xcellent authentic Me xican seaf ood and fish dishes that go w ell be yond taqueria status. $$ LA ROSITA TAQUERIA 2535 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 948-0401, 1515 E. Mark et St., Ne w Albany, IN, 944- 362 0. One of m y f avorite authentic Mexican eateries in the metr o. Offering

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indoor and out door seating t o enjo y a short, affordable menu of firs t-rate Puebla-s tyle tac os and other excellent Mexican dishes. $ f LA TAPATIA RESTAURANT 8106 Preston Hwy., 9619153. One of the mos t authentic ethnic Me xican restaurants in Louisville, this little storefront offers memorable tacos and burritos and more. $ p LOLITA’S TACOS 42 2 2 Poplar L evel Rd., 459-4356.

This tiny place may look like a fast-food joint, but the f ood is about as authentic Me xican as y ou’ll find. Crisp or soft tac os and burrit os the siz e of paper-towel r olls turn a meal her e int o a r eal bargain. $ f LOS AZTECAS 530 W. Main St., 561-8535, 1107 Herr Ln., 42 6- 3994, 9606 T aylorsville Rd., 2 9 7-8003, 92 07 U .S. Hw y 42 , 2 2 8-2 450. A uthentic Mexican cuisine has bec ome a viable option in L ouisville, thanks to a gr owing immigrant community. With fresh bar and blender off erings, cr eative appetizers and c omfortable seating, L os Aztecas is one of the best, with tasty Mexican dishes good enough to lure us back again and again. $ p LOS INDIOS RES TAURANTE MEXICANO 2743 Charlestown Rd., Ne w Alban y, IN, 94 1-9770, 7 30 Highlander Point Dr., Floyds Knobs, IN, 9 23-2929.

“Why ha ve T ex-Mex when y ou can ha ve Me xMex?” is asked in fun on the serv ers’ T-shirts. This eatery is w ell worth the trip t o Southern Indiana for high-quality Mexican dishes. $ p MARIMBA MEXICAN RESTAURANT 2901 Brownsboro Rd., 721-7200. At first glance, Marimba looks lik e the other authentic Me xican eat eries that ha ve been cr opping up all o ver t own. But this Louisville outpos t of a popular Shelb yville taqueria is w orth a sec ond look: The authentic Mexican f are is a cut abo ve much of its competition, and the e xpansive Me xican lunch buffet is a particularly good deal. $ p MEXICAN FIESTA 5414 Bardstown Rd., 762-0840. $ MEXICO TIPIC O RES TAURANT 6517 Dixie Hw y., 933-9523, 12401 Shelbyville Rd., 645-8778. One of the r egion’s firs t authentic Me xican eat eries, Mexico T ipico has built a lo yal f ollowing in f or good Me xican f ood and friendly , fully bilingual service; now it reaches the East End with a brandnew property in the Middletown area. $ p e PUERTO V ALLARTA 42 14 Charles town Rd., Ne w Albany, IN, 945- 3588, 12 5 Quart ermaster Ct., Jeffersonville, IN, 288-2022. $$ p QDOBA MEXICAN GRILL 1500 Bardstown Rd., 4543380, 9 70 Br eckinridge Ln., 7 2 1-8100, 4059 Summit Plaza Driv e, 42 9-5151, 100 Da ventry Ln., 412 -62 02 , 860 2 Citadel W ay, 4 93-9606, 430 2 Charlestown Rd., Ne w Alban y IN, 94 1-9654. T his chain operation boasts five local outlets plus more in L exington and Fr ankfort. F ast-foodish in s tyle, Qdoba edges out its c ompetitors on the basis of variety and interesting salsas, plus sizable portions at a price you can afford. $ f ROSTICERIA LUNA 5213B Preston Hwy., 962-8898.

Tiny and cluttered and very friendly, this little spot on Pr eston looks lik e another tac queria but the specialty, Me xican-style r oasted chick en, tak es it to another le vel, juicy and suc culent and r oasted golden br own. Chick en simply doesn’t get an y better than this. $ SANTA FE GRILL 3000 S. T hird St., 6 34-3722. This tiny eat ery in a c entury-old r ed-brick South End storefront near Chur chill Do wns ne ver f ails t o satisfy with genuine Me xican tac os and other simple fare at pric es that will lea ve you plenty of change for an exacta bet at the races. $ SOL AZTECA S 2 42 7 Bar dstown R oad, 459- 7776.

Saul Garcia, who’s been associated with the local chain of L os Aztecas eateries and the short-liv ed Olmeca’s, brings his br and of authentic Me xican fare t o the Douglas s L oop quart ers that previously housed Steam Fire and Ice. Fans of Los

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Aztecas will find f amiliar food and mood her e in the same affordable price ranges. $ p

COFFEE CROSSING 4212 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 981-2633, 13825 English Villa Dr., 254-7040. $

TACQUERIA LA MEXICANA 62 01 Pr eston Hw y., 969-4449. T he tac os ar e fine at this tin y storefront, ne xt door t o a Latino gr ocery s tore.

This is seriously ethnic s tuff, but Anglos ar e thoroughly w elcome, the s taff is bilingual, and they will happily pr ovide a menu with all the English translations written in. $

COFFEE POT CAFÉ 234 E. Gray St. (Medical Tower South), 584-5282 $ f

TEQUILA MEXICAN RES TAURANT 7803 Old T hird Street Rd., 368-3591. $

ALAMEDA 1381 Bar dstown Rd., 459-6 300. T his long-time Bardstown R oad f avorite off ers a familiar, c omfortable menu of South western favorites in an attr active casual-upscale dining room and inviting bar. $ p f MOE’S SOUTHWES T GRILL 2 001 S. Hurs tbourne Pkwy., 491-1800, 1001 Br eckinridge Ln., 89 3-6637, 12 001 Shelb yville Rd., 2 45-62 50, 10 2 0 V eterans Pkwy., Clarks ville, IN, (812 ) 2 88-66 37. T he f ood may be mor e f ast-food Me xican-American than authentic South-of-the-Bor der f are, but it is freshly made from quality ingredients and comes in oversize portions, and that’s not a bad thing. $ ON THE BORDER 10601 Fischer P ark Dr., 412-2461.

A c ontemporary spin on tr aditional f avorites offers a range of delights from the Ultimate Fajita to mar garitas in a setting that emulat es Old Mexico décor. $$ p f SALSARITA’S FRESH CANTINA 2 85 N. Hubbar ds Ln., 89 7-532 3. Another entry in the hot “Fr esh Mexican” niche that f eatures gigantic burrit os made t o or der. Its c olorful fr ee-standing building houses a sit-in restaurant and an inviting bar. $ f p TIJUANA FLATS BURRITO CO. 2420 Lime Kiln Ln. , 412 -6700, 3598 Springhurs t Blv d., 339-2 311.

Another entry in the growing niche of “fast casual Tex-Mex” eat eries, specializing in burrit os made from fresh ingredients while you wait. $$ TUMBLEWEED SOUTHWES T GRILL (17 locations ).

Tumbleweed, which s tarted as a humble Me xican restaurant in Ne w Alban y, e ventually came t o dominate L ouisville’s Tex-Mex niche with c olossal margaritas, gigantic burrit os and spicy chili c on queso. But what s tarted as a sideline , mesquit e grilled steaks, chops, and chicken, has become the main dr aw. T hese da ys, diners ar e mor e lik ely t o dig int o a grilled s teak and bak ed potat o than a burrito. With its Southwest focus, large and varied menu and added wine lis t, “The Weed” still draws diners in droves. $$ p f

COFFEE TREAT CAFÉ 429 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 582-2408 $ DAY’S ESPRES SO AND C OFFEE BAR 1420 Bardstown Rd., 456- 1170. Dark and c ozy, with an old-fashioned f eeling, Da y’s has e verything y ou would e xpect in a c ollege-neighborhood c offee shop except a college near by. $ f DBL SHOTZ 1315 Spring St., Jeff ersonville, IN, 2 82 7000. $ EXPRESSIONS OF Y OU 1800A W. Muhammad Ali, 584-6886. $ f e HEINE BROTHERS COFFEE 2714 Frankfort Ave., 8995551, 1295 Longest Ave., 456-5108, 2200 Bardstown Rd., 515-0 380, 118 Cheno weth Ln., 89 3-5103.

Spartan, friendly and aff ordable, with good c offee roasted on the premises and a short lis t of pastries, desserts and panini sandwiches, Heine Br os. has earned its outstanding local reputation. $ f e HIGHLAND C OFFEE C O. 1140 Bar dstown Rd., 4514545, 62 7 S. F ourth St., 540-9909 . Off ering tw o ways t o get wir ed, this c ozy neighborhood c offee shop also functions as one of L ouisville’s t op Internet cafés, wher e y ou can enjo y a hot cappuccino while y ou surf the ‘net in a W iFi hot spot. Funky Seattle-style ambience is a plus. $ f THE HOBKNOBB RO ASTING C O. 3700 P aoli Pik e, Floyds Knobs, IN, 9 2 3-1458. HobKnobb off ers fresh hot coffee, espresso drinks and fresh baked pastries, cakes and cookies. $ f JAVA BREWING COMPANY 9561B US Hwy 42, 2922 710, 516 W . Main St., 568-6 339, 135 S. English Station Rd., 489-56 77, F ourth Str eet Liv e, 56 12 041, 2 309 Fr ankfort A ve., 894-8060 . T hese casual spots boas ts the ambienc e of a friendly old-fashioned book shop , with c omfortable seating, a good selection of pas tries, and quality coffee from Seattle. $

BREADWORKS 362 8 Br ownsboro Rd., 89 3-32 00, 2420 Lime Kiln Ln., 326-0 300, 2204 Dundee Rd., 452-1510, 11800 Shelbyville Rd., 254-2885. $ COCO’S BAKERY 6915 Southside Drive, 368-9280. $ DESSERTS BY HELEN 2210 Bardstown Rd., 451-7151, 92 19 US Hw y. 42 , 2 2 8-8959 . Helen Friedman has earned a lo yal client ele sinc e the 19 70s with her elegant cak es, t empting pies and t ortes and designer cookies. $ HEITZMAN TRADITIONAL BAKER Y & DELI 9426 Shelbyville Rd., 426- 7736, 428 W. Market St., 5842437. The Heitzman f amily has been baking in the Louisville ar ea sinc e y our gr eat-aunt w as a girl ordering dinner r olls. Made fr esh daily , the pies, cakes, cookies and specialty pas tries provide tasty nostalgia for all who visit. $ MY FAVORITE MUFFIN 3934 Taylorsville Rd., 4850518, 9800 Shelb yville Rd., 42 6-9645. All the muffins are made right in the store, including such popular choices as the Cinnamon Crumb and the Turtle Muffin. $ PLEHN’S BAKERY 3940 Shelbyville Rd., 896-4438.

A neighborhood institution, this bakery is as busy as it is nos talgic. Enjo y the homet own soda fountain with ic e cr eam while y ou w ait f or y our hand-decorated birthda y cak e, br eakfast r olls or colorful cookies to be boxed. $ SWEET SURRENDER 1416 Bardstown Rd., 458-6 363.

Some of the city’ s bes t des serts and pas tries ar e available at this firs t-rate pas try shop . Now under new management, it hasn’t mis sed a s tep in the transition. $ THE SWEET TOOTH 3110 Frankfort Ave., 895-4554.

You’ll find an enticing c ollection of cak es, pies and other homemade goodies, plus e xcellent coffee and a selection of loose-leaf t eas, in this cozy little spot betw een Cr escent Hill and St. Matthews. $

JOE MUGGS 994 Breckenridge Ln. (Books-a-Million), 894-8606, 4300 Towne Center Dr., 426-2252. $ f LOGOS C OFFEE HOUSE 2272. $ f

2 2 50 Fr ankfort A ve., 89 7-

MASTER’S INTERNA TIONAL C Bardstown Rd., 495-6484. $ f

OFFEE

4806

OLD LOUISVILLE COFFEE HOUSE 1489 S. Fourth St., 635-6660. $ f PERKFECTION 359 Spring St., Jeff ersonville, IN, 2180611. $ e SISTER BEAN’S 4956 Manslick Rd., 364-0082. $ f

ATOMIC SAUCER 1000 E. Oak St., 6 37-5399. $ BEAN STREET CAFÉ IUS Campus Library, 941-2699, Floyd Memorial Hospital, 94 9-7188, 101 Laf ollette Station, Floyds Knobs, IN, 300 3 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 944-6262. Bean Street introduced the Sunny Side to the joys of serious espresso. Like all good coffee shops, they’re not just eateries, but cultural hangouts. $ f BUFFALO MADISON COFFEE COMPANY 1203 River Road, 540- 1161, 7 01 Eas tern Blv d., Clarks ville, IN, 2 18-8559. T hese locally o wned c offee shops ar e fine plac es t o enjo y a c offee drink and a pas try.

The Riv er R oad pr operty shar es spac e with Tumbleweed in the city’ s beautiful and gr owing Riverfront Park, offering a splendid river view. $ f CAFFE CLASSICO 2144 Frankfort Ave., 894-9689. $ f CLEO’S C OFFEE AND MORE Caesars Indiana Casino, Elizabeth, IN, 888-766-2648. $ CLOSE-KNIT CAFÉ 311 Wallace Ave., 894-3333. $ f

STARBUCKS COFFEE (27 locations) $ f SUNERGOS COFFEE & MICRO-RO ASTERY 2 12 2 S. Preston St., 634-1243. Matthew Huested and Brian Miller used t o r oast their o wn c offee beans as a hobby. Their friends said the y did it so w ell, they should turn pr o—the result is Suner gos C offee, another in the gr owing cadre of espr esso bars in Louisville’s Germantown neighborhood. $

THE BAKER Y 3100 Bar dstown Rd., 45 2 -12 10. Not just a fine bakery but a place where bakers learn their busines s, this e xcellent es tablishment is part of the culinary pr ogram at Sulliv an University. A r ecent renovation adds a t ouch of European s tyle. T he deli option is no mor e, but you can’t beat the quality br eads and pas tries offered here to eat in or carry out. $ www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Summer 2006 81

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MAP INDEX

MAP INDEX

MAP # DIRECTION PAGE # DOWNTOWN 84 1 Downtown Louisville NEAR EAST 85 2 Highlands – Crescent Hill EAST 86 3 St. Matthews SOUTH EAST 87 4 Hikes Point – Buechel EAST 88 5 Hurstbourne N. – Lyndon SOUTH EAST 89 6 Hurstbourne S. – Jeffersontown NORTH EAST 90 7 River Rd. – Brownsboro Rd. NORTH EAST 90 8 Westport Rd. FAR EAST 91 9 Middletown NORTH EAST 91 10 Prospect SOUTH EAST 91 11 Fern Creek SOUTH 92 12 Airport – Okolona SOUTH WEST 93 13 Shively – Pleasure Ridge Park INDIANA 94 14 New Albany – Floyds Knobs INDIANA 95 15 Clarksville INDIANA 95 16 Jeffersonville

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MAP INDEX

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DOWNTOWN > DOWNTOWN

MAP • 1

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MAP • 2

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NEAR EAST > HIGHLANDS/CRESCENT HILL

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EAST > ST. MATTHEWS

MAP • 3

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MAP • 4

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SOUTH EAST > HIKES POINT/BUECHEL

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EAST > HURSTBOURNE N./LYNDON

MAP • 5

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MAP • 6

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SOUTH EAST > HURSTBOURNE S./JEFFERSONTOWN

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MAP

7 > NORTH EAST > RIVER RD./BROWNSBORO RD. MAP

8 > NORTH EAST > WESTPORT ROAD

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11 > SOUTH EAST > FERN CREEK

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SOUTH > AIRPORT/OKALONA

MAP • 12

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MAP • 13

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SOUTH WEST > SHIVELY/PLEASURE RIDGE PARK

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INDIANA > NEW ALBANY/FLOYDS KNOBS

MAP • 14

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MAP

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louisville • 424 south 4th street located at 4th street live! phone: 502-568-2202 • hardrock.com

©2006 Hard Rock Cafe International, Inc. All rights reserved.

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Since 1982, our passion for teaching has produced some of the finest chefs, cooks, pastry chefs, catering professionals and hotel & restaurant managers in the country. With 100% graduate employment since the beginning, the ingredients are here for an exciting, rewarding career. Give us a call to see what we can do for you!

Louisville Campus 3101 Bardstown Road • Louisville, KY 40205 (800) 844-1354 www.sullivan.edu Lexington Campus 2355 Harrodsburg Rd • Lexington, KY 40504 (800) 467-6281 www.sullivan.edu

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