Summer 2007 (Vol. 17)

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SUMMER 2007

alfresco dining the season sets the table

recipes

Volare’s osso buco & four smokin’ dishes

bridging the gap southern indiana’s dining scene

www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

plus 900

restaurant listings with reviews & maps

$ 4 . 9 9 U. S .

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Choose Your Dealership As Carefully as You Choose Your Car.

You’re Riding On Our Reputation!

The Sam Swope Auto Group is pleased to offer a vast selection of new automobiles from some of the finest manufacturers in the world making us the #1 new car dealer in the region.

As the #1 used car dealer, Sam Swope is also The Used Car Authority with over 1,000 vehicles to choose from for immediate delivery. A Sam Swope Premier Pre-owned vehicle offers a quality automobile, at the right price, backed by an exclusive package of owner benefits including a 7 day exchange policy, warranty coverage up to 60 days, and complimentary Emergency Roadside Rescue. You can buy with confidence from a Sam Swope dealership.

Quality automobiles. Competitive prices. Outstanding service. Once you see all that the Sam Swope Auto Group has to offer you will understand why‌

Swope Discount AutoCenter I I-64 & S. Hurstbourne Parkway I Louisville, KY 40299

502-499-5000 I www.SamSwope.com

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Winston’s Executive Chef John Castro is currently featured on The Food Network’s Throwdown! with Bobby Flay.

Friday & Saturday Lunch 11am - 2pm Dinner 5:30 - 10pm Sunday Brunch 9:30am - 2pm

Reservations (502) 456-0980

SUMMER 2007 PUBLISHER JOHN CARLOS WHITE EDITOR-IN-CHIEF ROBIN GARR VICE PRESIDENT OF OPERATIONS DANIEL F. BOYLE COLUMNISTS ROGER A. BAYLOR JAY FORMAN ROBIN GARR RON JOHNSON DAVID LANGE JERRY SLATER

Winston’s is a Kentucky “Restaurant of the Year” and Wine Spectator Magazine National Award Winner.

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS GREG GAPSIS

3101 Bardstown Road • Louisville, KY 40205

CONTRIBUTING CHEFS BILLY GRAHAM ROBERT STAGGS

Located on the campus of Sullivan University.

CHIEF RESTAURANT CRITIC ROBIN GARR CHIEF PHOTOGRAPHER DAN DRY

For your next dinner party or business function, remember The Bakery. This European-style bakery offers the best selection of pastries, breads, delectable chocolate delicacies and cakes customized for any occasion.

7am-4:30pm Mon - Sat

MAGAZINE DESIGN & LAYOUT JOHN CARLOS WHITE GRAPHIC DESIGN KATHY KULWICKI STEFAN TAMBURRO COPY EDITORS MARY W. JOHNSON PAUL NAJJAR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES ANNETTE B. WHITE DISTRIBUTION / FACT CHECKING AMANDA HERSCHEL

3100 Bardstown Road • Louisville, KY 40205 • (502) 452-1210

Food & Dining Magazine ® is published quarterly by Louisville Dining Magazine, Inc. P.O. Box 665, Louisville KY 40201

Whether it’s an intimate gathering or you’re hosting hundreds, Juleps Catering can create a culinary experience your guests will not forget. Call us today for all your catering needs!

The publisher and advertisers are not responsible or liable f or misprints, typographical errors or misinformation. The opinions expressed herein are those of the writ ers and do not necessarily reflect the opinion of the publisher. Food & Dining Magazine® and Louisville Dining Magazine Inc. are in no w ay affiliated with Louisville Magazine® or any of its affiliates.

Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited.

All rights reserved.

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Annual Subscription rate $18.

Submit subscription requests to: Food & Dining Magazine ® P.O. Box 665, Louisville KY 40201, or call (502) 493-5511 ext. 540 or subscribe online at www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

(502) 454-4499 3101 Bardstown Road Louisville, KY 40205

For Advertising information call (502) 493-5511 ext. 550 ON THE COVER 610 Magnolia Chef/Owner Edward Lee offers a simple yet sublime dish of seared scallop and lobster tail with chanterelles and a saffron foam.

(Feature story, page 40)

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Photo by Dan Dry

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contents

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SUMMER 2007

FEATURES Alfresco Dining: Guide to Eats in the Great Outdoors Patios, decks and picnic groves: Alfresco dining is gaining popularity as Louisville’s restaurant scene moves into the open air.

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Bridging the Gap: Southern Indiana’s Dining Scene Creative and savvy restaurateurs are luring happy diners across the bridges to Southern Indiana as the region’s dining scene heats up.

COLUMNS

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NEWS AND NOTES COMINGS & GOINGS

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Every quarter we report on restaurant openings, closings, moves and other news on the local dining scene.

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SIDE DISHES Noteworthy culinary and restaurant happenings.

HUMOR IN SEARCH OF THE HOLY GRILL

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Call him a traitor, but longtime charcoal fanatic Jay Forman is thinking about switching over to gas. Maybe.

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TRAVEL ROAD TRIP: Northern Kentucky Northern Kentucky is becoming a restaurant boom town.

Ron Johnson provides details on the region’s top spots.

LIQUIDS CORK 101: Too Darn Hot!

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Wine snobs won’t be amused, but the rest of us will: We’re talking about refreshing summer wine drinks with fruit and soda.

HIP HOPS: Lawnmower Beer Roger A. Baylor takes us on a summery tour through some of the beers that suit the climactic extremes of summertime.

COFFEE: Cruisin’ the Espresso Bars

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David Lange compares the atmosphere, pricing, format and presentation — and the espresso drinks — at metro coffee houses.

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SPIRITS: Summer Drink List Never mind light summer reading. Jerry Slater has a few good ideas about light, refreshing and literary summer beverages.

RECIPES RESTAURANT FAVORITES: Volare’s Osso Buco It’s easy to see why Chef Dallas McGarity’s rendition of this succulent Northern Italian veal dish is a favorite at Volare.

TOP CHEF RECIPES: Sullivan Chefs are Smokin’ Smoky flavors bring a subtle touch to summer dishes from Sullivan University chefs Billy Graham and Robert Staggs.

RESTAURANT GUIDE DINING GUIDE

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Our updated, comprehensive listing of over 900 area restaurants complete with reviews.

MAPS Find all of the restaurants in our Dining Guide on 16 area maps.

38 30 50 54 82

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news and notes

comings

& goings

At a glance, the overall picture of restaurant openings and closings during the previous quarter looks optimistic, with about two dozen restaurant openings and only about half that number of closings.

Perhaps more significantly, though, it was one of the quieter spells we’ve seen since Food & Dining began tracking these restaurant-industry trends.

Only about a dozen fully new restaurants — several of them corporate chains — opened their doors, with about as many new restaurants merely replacing predecessors with a quick name or management change at the same locations.

OPENINGS Few of the changes were headline grabbers, although the arrival of the classy Rivue in the revolving dining venue atop the Galt House at 140 N. Fourth Street, made a publicity splash when it opened in June. Indisputably the city’s best view restaurant, Rivue ups the ante significantly over its predecessor, the dark and dated Flagship Room.

In a quick turnaround, Robert “Bobby J.” Johnson comes out of retirement to join Rick Longino in reinventing the shor tlived La Rouge as Bobby J’s, 252 East Market Street.

Love breakfast? Coming in midSeptember, the owners of Napa River Grill will open the first Wild Eggs at 3985 Dutchmans Lane, launching a local mini-chain that will feature breakfast and lunch with upscale touches, espresso and a full bar.

Over in New Albany, two new spots boost the growing restaurant renaissance that is drawing attention to the Southern Indiana city: Connor’s Place, 207 E. Main Street, offers casual dining with a sports bar feel; Speakeasy, 225 State Street, adds contemporary bistro-style fare in a jazz bar setting.

Also in Southern Indiana, Jimmy’s on the River has reopened with new owners at 100 W. Riverside Drive in Jeffersonville, and Habanero’s becomes Señor Iguana’s at 1415 Broadway in Clarksville.

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fare to a new retail building at 3701 Lexington Road in St. Matthews, and CoCo’s Chocolate Café offers housemade chocolates and pastries in a small but sophisticated cafe in the Highlands at 1759 Bardstown Road.

Jeff Jarfi, proprietor of Jarfi’s Bistro in the Kentucky Center, adds a second eatery to his collection in Jarfi’s at Mellwood, replacing A Little Peace Cafe in the Mellwood Arts Center at 1860 Mellwood Ave. Maggie’s Sports Bar & Grille brings a diner and spor ts bar venue to Jeffersontown at 10300 Taylorsville Road.

Several new chains are attracting attention: After a decade-long hiatus, Taco Tico is back in town. The first of several planned outlets is in the far Southwest End at 5925 Terry Road, but it’s drawing crowds from all over town, craving Sanchos and Taco Burgers. With only a handful of regional properties, Indianapolisheadquartered Puccini’s Smiling Teeth, 4600 Shelbyville Road, and Nashville-based Amerigo, 871 South Hurstbourne Parkway, barely qualify as chains. Puccini’s features thin-crust pizza by the slice; Amerigo, with local chef Anthony Lorie at the helm, specializes in upscale-casual “European/ Italian” fare.

Other new chain arrivals include Roosters, 7405 Preston Highway, a Columbus-based franchise specializing in wings; and Atlanta-based Shane’s Rib Shack, 2420 Lime Kiln Lane, taking over a long-closed Tijuana Flats location.

Briefly told, NV Tavern is open with bar and grill fare at 1202 Bardstown Road, former home of the Cribstone Pub. Fat Tony’s Pizza changes owners and gets a new name but continues serving thin-crust, NYC-style pizza as Slice of New York, 9910 Linn Station Road.

Two hotel restaurants get makeovers: At the Hyatt Regency Downtown, 320 W. Jefferson Street, Peppers Bar and Grill expands from its former role as a bar with a limited snack menu to a full-scale casual dining room. Meanwhile, Bentley’s, the dining room at the Holiday Inn Downtown, sports new décor and a new name, Xavier’s.

Adding new properties to growing chains, El Tarasco’s fifth metro location is open at 412 South First Avenue in LaGrange; Qdoba Mexican Grill adds its seventh local property at 3021 Poplar Level Road, and Jimmy John’s Sub Shop adds a fourth local branch at 1321 South Hurstbourne Parkway.

CLOSINGS Just as Food & Dining went to press, Chef Mike Driskell announced that he would be closing Diamante, 2280 Bardstown Road. It was a popular Highlands spot and a particularly good choice for late-night dining; we’re sorry to see it go.

Two popular chains are gone: Harper’s Restaurant, 871 S. Hurstbourne

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Parkway, and Bahama Breeze, 104 Oxmoor Court, both abruptly went dark just before Derby season.

Two locally owned East End operations, both of which had sought to expand from older properties into larger, newer facilities, failed to make it: The Pizza Box, 10331 Champion Farms Drive, and The Cutting Board, 2929 Goose Creek Road, have both closed.

Other local restaurants that have served their last meals are Big Hopp’s, 800 West Market Street; Edoya Japanese Restaurant, 15206 Shelbyville Road; and MacVittie’s, 106 Sears Avenue. Out in Oldham County, Brownsboro Eatery has shut down at 7511 Highway 329. Milano Cafe, 962 Baxter Avenue, open for just a few weeks, closed abruptly at the end of June.

As noted, the following closed only to make way for immediate successors in the same locations: The Flagship at the Galt House, Bentley’s in the Holiday Inn Downtown, Fat Tony’s in Plainview, A Little Peace Cafe on Mellwood and Habanero’s in Clarksville.

MOVES A number of local restaurants were on the move this quarter. The excellent Bourbon Bros. BBQ moved directly across the street from its former cottage location, adding steaks and a bar to its basic barbecue menu as it takes over the larger quarters that have housed Shariat’s, two Indian restaurants and two Mexican eateries.

Café Lou Lou, citing parking pressure and lack of wheelchair access, took its colorful art and eclectic menu east, opening in St. Matthews at 106 Sears Avenue.

Pit Stop BBQ closed downtown at Fifth and Chestnut streets, resumes business at 13303 Magisterial Drive near Anchorage in the far East End. Sweet Surrender, which moved from Clifton to the Highlands a while back, returns to Clifton at 1804 Frankfort Avenue; and the down-home Whitney’s Diner moves in Bardstown Road from Fern Creek to Buechel: You’ll find it now at 3061 Breckenridge Lane. F&D We regret any omissions, but invite the restaurant community to keep us informed. Send information by E-mail to publisher@foodanddiningmagazine.com. www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Summer 2007

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news and notes

side dishes EVENTS Food & Dining Tastings Food & Dining, in partnership with top local restaurants, has begun hosting monthly fun and educational food and drink events that may range from wine, Bourbon and beer tastings to cooking classes. You’ll meet the magazine’s writers and columnists and behind-the-scenes staff, and have a chance to win free subscriptions, restaurant gift certificates and other door prizes.

The first of these exciting events is coming up on Monday, Aug. 13, at L&N Wine Bar and Bistro, from 6-8:30 p.m. Joe Davis, owner and wine maker at Arcadian Winery in California’s scenic Santa Ynez Valley, the beautiful setting for the movie “Sideways,” will be the guest for a casual, drop-in tasting of his stylish, high-end Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Syrah, which critics hail as being made in an elegant, subtle “Burgundian” style.

Davis will talk about his wine and answer questions; visitors may purchase his wines by the glass or tasting portion.

L&N Wine Bar and Bistro’s regular menu will be available for those who wish to enjoy appetizers or dinner. No reservations required.

Mark your calendars now for a memorable Bourbon tasting at Bourbons Bistro on Monday, Sept. 10. This event will feature Bourbons by Pappy Van Winkle, one of Kentucky’s most highly regarded labels. Distillers Julian and Preston Van Winkle will be on hand with four Bourbons, which will be served with a fivecourse, prix-fixe dinner that begins with cocktails at 6 p.m. and dinner around 6:45.

It’s just $45 a person for food and drink.

Call 894-8838 for reservations.

Finally, Wednesday, Oct. 17, is the date and Napa River Grill is the place for a tasting of Australian wines with Rebecca Loewy, Aussie wine specialist with Old Bridge Cellars, a respected importer. She’ll bring wines that show off the variety of Australia’s diverse wine regions, including 10 Summer 2007 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

Margaret River, McLaren Vale, Yarra Valley and Rutherglen, and Napa River Grill will come up with food to match. Meet and greet at 6:30 p.m., dinner’s at 7, and the tab for dinner is $75 a person, all-inclusive. Call 893-0141 for reservations.

We’d love to hear from you with ideas about events you’d like to see.

Contact Publisher John White with your input — and while you’re at it, comments about the magazine as well. Call (502) 493-5511 ext. 501 or drop us an email at publisher@foodanddiningmagazine.com.

Fleur De Licious Fleur De Licious, “Downtown Louisville’s Restaurant Week,” returns for its second annual outing during the week of Oct. 10-15, with Food & Dining as a corporate sponsor.

A wide variety of downtown restaurants will offer special fixed-price menus at attractive prices to encourage you to give downtown a try. There’ll also be a competition, sponsored by Maker’s Mark, to create the definitive “Fleur de Licious Cocktail.” This is the perfect opportunity for you to try new restaurants and visit your old favorites, too. For more information, visit www.FleurDeLicious.info.

farmer, it’s entirely possible that you’re looking to beef cattle as a high-profit alternative to the faltering tobacco industry. Cattle is a growth industry in Kentucky, which now claims the largest inventory of beef cattle east of the Mississippi. For the rest of us, beef spells steaks, prime rib and barbecue. It all comes together every June at the annual Fort Harrod Beef Festival in Harrodsburg, Kentucky, a celebration of beef on the hoof and on your plate.

Events range from beauty contests and wine-and-cheese tasting to the annual Grill-off, with amateur and professional chefs. All beef is provided by the Green River Cattle Company. In the professional division of this year’s Grill-off, Dunn’s BBQ of Franklin, Kentucky, took first prize in both steak and brisket, plus a third in backyard burger. The Smitty’s Smokehouse BBQ team from Louisville took first place in brisket, amateur division.

Food & Dining Publisher John C.White will be a judge in next year’s Grill-off.

Watch for it in early June 2008. For more on the Beef Festival, check the Website, www.fortharrodbeeffestival.org.

MILESTONES There are 90 birthday candles on the giant cake as three long-standing local restaurant institutions each mark their 30th anniversary this year. Celebrating their founding in 1977 are the Bristol Bar & Grill,

Bourbon Festival The Kentucky Bourbon Festival, set this year for Sept. 11-16 in historic Bardstown, just an hour south of Louisville in scenic Lincoln Heritage country, celebrates one of the world’s finest spirits.

Since 1776, the people of Bardstown, Kentucky have been making Bourbon.Their dedication to the fine art of distilling eventually gave Bardstown the title of “Bourbon Capital of the World.” Come celebrate this passion and history at The Kentucky Bourbon Festival, a weekend full of smooth Bourbon, delicious food, and great entertainment, with a healthy dose of Kentucky hospitality. Details on the Web at www.kybourbonfestival.com.

Beef Festival What’s your beef? If you’re a Kentucky Bristol founder Doug Gossman

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Rocky’s Italian Grill and Bearno’s Pizza, all of which have grown into thriving local mini-chains. Now let’s see you guys blow out all those candles at once.

Tony Boombozz’s Tony Palombino

AWARDS The International RateBeer.com Website recently declared New Albany’s Rich O’s/New Albanian Brewing Co. the sixth best beer bar in the world.We didn’t need them to tell us that it’s the best in this region, as you’ll frequently find the Food & Dining editorial staff over there with brimming mugs in hand.What’s more, New Albanian publican Roger A. Baylor is the magazine’s regular beer columnist. He’s our beer guru for a good reason:The man really knows his suds.

Speaking of local food and drink experts who know their stuff, Tony Palombino, owner and founder of Tony Boombozz Famous Gourmet Pizza, represented the United States at The World Pizza Cup in Naples, Italy in June.

Competitors included chefs from North America, South America and Europe.“I am very honored to be representing the United States in Naples,” he said. The event was a homecoming for Palombino, whose parents came to the Unites States in 1967 from Naples, Italy, the birthplace of pizza. www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Summer 2007

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Among other local honors, quickly told, Papa John’s Pizza has been named the nation’s Best Pizza Chain for 2007 by Pizza Magazine; and the Southeast Tourism Society declared the Kentucky Bourbon Festival one of its top 20 tourism events in the region.

JAMES BEARD HOUSE The procession of top Louisville chefs honored with invitations to come cook at the James Beard House in New York City continues unabated, with Anthony Lamas of Seviche having returned from a highly applauded visit — his second — on July 11, and Chef Dallas McGarity of Volare and sous chef Joshua Moore making their first trek to Beard House on Aug. 8.

Beard House declared that “Lamas is wowing locals with the exciting flavors of his Mexican and Puerto Rican heritage. At his Nuevo Latino restaurant, Seviche, Lamas turns out traditional dishes as well as modern innovations using ancient Latin American culinary techniques.” His Beard House menu, which was repeated in Louisville on July 25, featured such familiar Seviche goodies as Yellowtail Tiradito, Lobster Ceviche Shooters, Peruvian Beef Anticuchos, Brazilian Moqueca Seafood Stew, Ahi Tuna with Shrimp Chilaquiles and, it goes without saying, Sailor Jerry Rum Mojitos.

McGarity won Beard House’s applause for “dishes that soar above and beyond traditional Mediterranean cooking.

His innovative cuisine incorporates influences from his rural South Carolina upbringing as well as his classical training.”

He and Moore plan to show off a wide selection of dishes with a strong seafood Chefs Dallas McGarity and Joshua Moore (left)

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focus, including Italian Shrimp and Grits, Tuna Tartare with Fried Capers, Scallop Carpaccio, Black Taglioline with Poached Squid, and Roasted Escolar.

OTHER NEWS Sullivan University Chef John Richards, who boasts a strong record as chef at local institutions including the still-remembered Zephyr Cove and Kentucky Cove in the Kentucky Center for the Arts, has been named Director of Food & Beverage Operations at Sullivan University. Also at Sullivan, Chef Tom Hickey has been appointed Director of the university’s National Center for Hospitality Studies.

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show off bison-based dishes at a special event intended to promote the meat of the American buffalo for Food Network producers and editors. Paley and other chefs were also guests at the International Bison Conference in South Dakota’s Black Hills in July.

Chef Allan Rosenberg

Saint’s Chef Allan Rosenberg, formerly of the short-lived Danielle’s and then with Blu in the Downtown Marriott, has now landed at Saint’s in St. Matthews. Saint’s has been known primarily as a music venue and nightspot with pizza, snacks and pub grub, but Rosenberg is creating a more upscale menu in a bid to re-position the venue as a destination dining room.

Chef John Richards

Park Place Anoosh Shariat, who closed his Shariat’s Restaurant in Crescent Hill a few years ago to take the helm of the Slugger Field restaurants, Park Place on Main (renamed from Wellinghurst’s) and Browning’s, is now stepping back from fulltime executive chef duties to move in the direction of restaurant consulting.

Fortunately, Park Place and Brownings have a strong replacement on deck in Jay Denham, formerly at the Marriott’s Blu and before that a sous chef at the Oakroom.

Park Place is also working with the Jazz Factory to provide dinner service at the popular jazz club in Glassworks.

Proof on Main Chef Michael Paley of Proof on Main traveled to New York City recently to

Dreaded Oops! Department Having worked as a reporter in Louisville since Bill Stansbury was in City Hall and Richard M. Nixon was in the White House, you would think Food & Dining Editor-in-Chief Robin Garr would know his way around town by now. You might be wrong.

Garr abashedly assumes all the blame for erroneously placing Toast on Market one block north on Main Street in his report on Toast’s gingerbread pancakes in the Spring 2007 issue. Our apologies to Toast, and to anyone who got lost trying to find it on Main.

Subscribe to Food & Dining Can’t wait to see what’s in the next issue of Food & Dining? Why not subscribe? Sign up for one year for $18, and we’ll give you four quarterly editions and pay you back in full with $18 in localrestaurant gift certificates. Better still, take two years for $26, we’ll send you eight issues and send you $36 wor th of gift cer tificates. You can subscribe online at: www.foodanddiningmagazine.com F&D www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Summer 2007 13

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BY JAY FORMAN

In search of the

Holy Grill I

’m completely renovating an old house that I just bought in New Orleans. While it would be quicker and simpler to rake the money in a big pile and set it on fire, I’ve never been one to do things the easy way. So when I learned that my gas line had corroded to the point where it was more of a suggestion of where the gas might want to go rather than something that was capable of actually containing it, I knew I was looking at a massive expense. Luckily there was a silver lining: If it had to be entirely replaced, at least I could get a stub in the backyard to tie into a new barbecue grill.

I must confess that this decision makes me feel like a traitor.

Until now I’d always been an advocate of charcoal, preferring the subtle flavor briquettes lend to the meat along with the primal satisfaction of setting off controlled explosions in the backyard. If it were up to me, lighter fluid would come in containers like the shoulder-mounted models that NASCAR pit crews use to refuel racing cars. So, despite the fact that charcoal is messy, the prep time is long, and users sacrifice a good degree of control over the heat, I continued to use it. But now I’m at a turning point.The last logistical obstacle keeping me from the Dark Side was the chore of refilling the canisters. Now, with the ability to jack a grill directly into the city’s raw fuel artery, I’m left defenseless against the attraction of a gas grill.

But deciding to take the plunge and actually plunging are two different things. Having grown up using a classic Weber charcoal grill, I’m completely uninformed about the different gas brands on the market. While the gleaming stainless-steel encrusted meat chariots on display near the entrance of Lowe’s look really sweet, I just don’t know anything about them. What’s a Char-Broil, anyway? The name sounds capable enough, but I don’t have a history with the brand to reassure me. True, I recognize some high-end names like Viking in the catalogs, but these brands cost as much as minor surgery, and I don’t want to have to sell a kidney to cook a steak.

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There must be a lot of people like me. Gas grills would be the perfect item for companies to co-brand with their existing products to take advantage of this. Some companies would succeed on brand recognition alone. Gun manufacturers, for instance. I’d buy a Desert Eagle Limited Edition Grill — obviously this model would be available in stainless. Heckler & Koch could target the top-tier market; this German company doubtless could manufacture grills capable of grouping burgers at 300 yards, accurate to within a tenth of a degree Celsius.

Car companies are another sure bet — if Hummer made grills, I guarantee they would not be able to keep them in stock.

Jeep is a brand that is ready-made for the outdoors; a perfect companion for grill offerings, although the seals might leak. Volvo would make a nice, safe grill that your wife wouldn’t mind you paying $40,000 for, although safety features wouldn’t allow you to actually use it. American companies would rule here — this is one area in which Japanese automakers simply could not compete. No guy would buy a Toyota grill over a Dodge Ram. The Japanese names just don’t convey the same sense of brute power.Thus far, marketing types have failed to exploit this extreme vulnerability of the male psyche. But when they do figure it out, I expect to receive royalty checks.

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Based on my admittedly cursory examination of what’s out there, it seems that features sell grills these days. After all, at its essence a grill is basically a grate, a gas supply with a regulator, and a stand. All the rest is bells and whistles. But what beautiful bells and whistles they are: Side-burners, griddles, and rotisserie racks are just a few of the options available on even basic models. Despite this, grills remain one of the few appliances around that have not yet had computers integrated into them.

This won’t last. In a few years I fully expect to see an advertisement like the one below featured in a Memorial Day sale newspaper supplement: Introducing the new He-Man Broilinator 4000 XLE Limited Edition with foam suppressant fire control, wireless Internet, 12-inch 1080p LCD Display featuring Dolby 5.1 surround sound and one month of HBO included. Twin pony tanks inject pure nitrous oxide into the main line to achieve temperatures high enough to smelt gold (crucible optional). Thanks to our patented magnetic confinement chamber technology, asbestos shielding is now a thing of the past! *Warning — this product is not intended for use within 1,000 feet of homes, trees, power lines or public schools.

I’d buy something like this.The ultimate grilling machine, obviously, would be an oilwell blowout that has exploded in flames.

You could turn a steer into a lump of carbon in about three minutes, effectively searing in the juices. A grill like this would satisfy the primal (what is more elemental than gathering around a roaring fire?) and the refined (the stuff causing those sheets of flame is natural gas, of course! But a whole lot more natural gas than a 3/4-inch valve lets you carry).The problem is, when you are done with the burgers, you’d have to call either John Wayne or Boots n’ Coots to put it out. Plus, environmentalists would give you a hard time.

But all this is conjecture. At this point in my renovation the city has apparently filed my Gas Meter Release approval in the Where Documents Go To Die department and are regretfully unable to return my calls. But no matter. When I do finally get approved, I’m going to make up for lost time with a barbecue to end all barbecues.

With any luck, this will happen before winter. F&D www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Summer 2007 15

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people and places profiles

BY GREG GAPSIS | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

Southern Indiana Dining

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Four Southern Indiana Restaurateurs give us a reason to cross the river

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. Bridging the Gap For most of the last 100 years, most Kentuckians paid Southern Indiana little attention. Except for occasional community festivals or visits to the Falls of the Ohio fossil beds or a pick-your-own farm, there wasn’t much reason to cross the river. Cer tainly fine dining didn’t rank high on the list of Hoosier attractions.

What a difference recent decades have made!

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people and places profiles

BY GREG GAPSIS | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

L

ouisville’s eagerness to grow outward brought new homebuyers to the area, where good school systems, reasonable commute times and frequently more home for the money have boosted several Southern Indiana counties into the ranks of fastest-growing in the state. Spurred on by cheap gas prices and low mortgage rates, this demographic explosion transformed once sleepy country areas into suburbs of Louisville.

The new residents also created new opportunities for dining outlets. Not only have franchise eateries sprung up in the last few years, but a group of creative and dedicated restaurateurs now offer quality and good value to the discriminating Southern Indiana dining customer.

Jeffersonville’s riverfront development district — anchored by Buckhead’s, Rocky’s Italian Grill and Kingfish, as well as ventures like the Kobe Japanese grill and sushi bar — attract loyal customers. A few blocks away, Frank’s Steak House and Annie’s by the River have been joined by Come Back Inn, Appleby’s and Perkfection, a coffee house that’s adding a lunchtime menu.

More than a decade ago, Clarksville put down the infrastructure to support new development north of its Greentree and former River Falls mall complexes.They’ve become the anchors of a booming commercial strip that has lured an array of shopping and dining sites, many of them national chains.

New Albany, which created an entire downtown historical redevelopment district, is now seeing a flurry of activity as pioneers such as Federal Hill and more recent arrivals like La Rosita have been joined by Bistro New Albany; Treet’s bakery and café on Market Street offers lunches and Saturday breakfasts in a comfortable setting; Connor’s Place, a distinctive old laundry on Main Street, has been converted into a sports bar with pressed-tin ceilings and a shady patio; and The Speakeasy, a jazz club and restaurant on State Street, offers ballroom dancing once a month and local jazz mainstays like Jamey Aebersold and Dick Sisto in addition to serving lunch and dinner.

“It was almost like a foreign country once, but now there’s a changed attitude about Southern Indiana …”

— Wes Johnson, Buckhead Mountain Grill Change, and success, on the north shore of the Ohio River has been swift during the last decade. Buckhead Mountain Grill’s property, for instance, now ranks as one of the busiest restaurants on the riverfront and, indeed, in the entire Louisville area.

“People in the business thought we were crazy for coming to Indiana’s riverfront, but we were very bullish on the idea,” said Wes Johnson, vice president of the Buckhead management group. “So many riverfronts at the time were seeing revivals — Cleveland, Pittsburgh, St. Louis and Cincinnati — and the demographic profile made sense. We knew Clark County was one of the fastest growing counties in the Midwest.”

The opportunity arose after a Swedish company failed to follow through with plans for a riverfront district in the early 1990s and the City of Jeffersonville sought proposals for new restaurant developments.

“We were one of several submitted. Buckhead and Kingfish were chosen,” Johnson said. “We knew they weren’t making any more riverfronts so, if we did it right, we felt there was a good 18 Summer 2007 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

chance to differentiate ourselves.” The property opened in March 1998.

The Jeffersonville eatery’s popularity seems based equally on its accessible location, great views of the city, and a menu that Johnson calls “authentic food.”

“Our menu is broad, portions are large and we specialize in what many would call comfort foods: homemade chicken potpies, meatloaf, Angus steaks and barbecued ribs,” he said. “Another key is variety. We have 15 side items on the menu, from steamed broccoli and mashed potatoes to lima beans, something we believe our customers appreciate.”

“Jeffersonville’s original plan was for three restaurants in that area, and one spot was still vacant,” Johnson said.“We traveled the country looking for the right idea and, surprisingly, found it right in our own backyard. John Fondrisi at Rocky’s had a wonderful reputation and when we approached him he agreed we could work together.”

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Rocky’s Italian Grill John Fondrisi

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ohn Fondrisi, founder of Rocky’s, is an affable host who enjoys telling of his New York upbringing and immigrant grandparents from southern Italy. “I was a city kid from the Bronx who hadn’t seen dirt until I was about seven years old, when Grandfather Frank took me to a New York Yankees game,” he said.

Fondrisi says he learned the basics of cooking “by osmosis and watching” his grandfather and mother during years of family dinners which rotated between relatives’ homes on different days of the week.

“They showed me how to be efficient, to cook fresh, to not buy but make,” Fondrisi said. “We’d have Friday pizza nights and Sunday dinners and, over time, I learned their traditions, values and recipes.”

Today, Fondrisi is celebrating his 30th year in business and, with partner Ralph Scurci, presides over a popular restaurant on the Jeffersonville riverfront and a smaller second location that opened last year on Westport Road in eastern Louisville. Both restaurants deliver solid Italian cooking in casual settings. In Jeffersonville, that setting features perhaps one of the city’s most

alluring alfresco patios, with spectacular views of the Louisville skyline.

The values imparted during Fondrisi’s youth, he said, are the key to the restaurants’ success and growth from rather humble beginnings.

“To me it is all about quality, caring about customers, being present, visiting tables and trying not to lose focus,” he said.

“People who dine out want to know there’s somebody who cares about their experience. Sure, we’ve got a great view. But we want our customers to leave happy and we’ll do whatever it takes for them to have that experience.”

Fondrisi takes a large personal interest in the restaurant and delights in telling stories of working as a busser for 65 cents an hour when he was 13.

After a stint in Arizona, Fondrisi moved to Louisville in the mid ’70’s and worked at Casa Grisanti, a memorable restaurant that turned out an entire generation of Louisville chefs and managers. Wanting to get into business for himself, Fondrisi opened Rocky’s in August 1977, renovating a small Jeffersonville hamburger stand on Utica Pike across from the Jeffboat shipyard as a sandwich shop and pizza parlor.

“Yeah, we were playing on the popularity of the movie and named our sandwiches after characters in it, hoping to appeal to shipyard workers. But two weeks before we opened, the

Rocky’s Italian Grill (812) 282-3844|715 W. Riverside Drive

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Buckhead Mountain Grill (812) 284-2929|707 W. Riverside Drive

A trio of good eats represent a pair of worthy Southern Indiana restaurants: Buckhead’s fall-off-the-bone ribs (above); from Rocky’s, traditional lasagna (inset) and one of their signature pizzas, the suprema (above right).

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Teamsters went on strike and 2,000 workers walked out,” Fondrisi said.“That, and finding out on our opening day, August 16, that Elvis Presley had just died, made me wonder what kind of luck we were going to have.”

An early good review helped bring customers from Louisville, but Fondrisi says it was his grandfather’s oft-repeated advice, “You make your own good fortune,” which inspired him when a new challenge arose.

PSI, the regional electric utility, imposed rationing and threatened to cut off any businesses that exceeded prior use levels when its suppliers were faced with a months-long coal strike.“The records they had for our place were from when it was an 18-stool hamburger stand,” Fondrisi said. “We were a new business, had remodeled to 40 seats before opening and installed electric pizza ovens. None of that seemed to matter. They said they were going to shut us down.”

In a bold marketing stroke, Fondrisi turned off the lights, put candles on all the tables, brought in hand-pump kegs and charcoal grills for cooking and called the television stations.They picked up on the story of a small business fighting the Goliath utility and ran it for several nights until PSI relented. It put Rocky’s on the map.

“People started coming in. One guy said, ‘Give me a meatball sub. I don’t know who you are or where you’re from, but I like what you’re doing,’ ” Fondrisi recalled.“They kept coming back and we kept taking care of them.”

Though off the beaten track, Rocky’s developed a loyal

following. Fondrisi expanded the restaurant six times in his first 12 years. With nearly $1 million in annual sales, in 1998 investors approached him with an opportunity to move into a brand new, 240-seat facility in Jeffersonville’s riverfront development district.

It was a no-brainer. As part of the move, Fondrisi joined with Ralph Scurci, a corporate training chef, to take the business to a new level.

“John already had the basics mastered,” Scurci said. “So I just tinkered a little bit. We make some scratch sauces, because I feel that’s what sets us apart from others. We still make our dough each day and hand-bread the zucchini before we fry it. How many places do that?”

Fondrisi says it’s a successful partnership because of their focus on quality.

“I’ve learned to delegate,” Fondrisi said.“I used to open in the morning and lock up at night. I used to not let anyone else do the dough. Ralph has helped me broaden our operation but yet our meatballs are rolled by hand and baked every day before they are simmered, even though we are doing three, four or five hundred meatballs a day.”

Fondrisi believes it is good food and service that keeps people coming back, a point he emphasizes with a wave of his hand toward the city skyline framed by large windows.

“If you can execute consistently, people will not only seek you out but continue to support you,” Fondrisi said. “You can’t eat décor.” www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Summer 2007 21

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R o ck Wa l l B i s t r o Guy Sillings

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uy Sillings, a seasoned restaurateur, has for the last five years invested his knowledge and resources into an outpost of good eating in the rolling hills of Southern Indiana’s Floyds Knobs region.

A generation ago a trip to the Knobs required a drive to the top of a winding stretch of old U.S. 150 as it climbed 300 feet out of the Ohio Valley on its way west, a daunting challenge to many Louisville residents.

Today the I-265 loop north of New Albany has cut that road trip to just one mile from the Interstate, and the region now draws Hoosiers and Kentuckians alike.

When RockWall opened in 2002, Sillings used the setting on the edge of an old quarry to tastefully incorporate a unique stone-walled, year-round patio that not coincidentally gave the restaurant its name. Moreover, he made it a point to feature imaginatively prepared dishes served in an unusual setting:There was nothing else quite like it.

“Everybody calls it something different — a Neapolitan café, a bistro, a metropolitan café,” Sillings said. “I’m not so interested in being labeled as I am in wanting people to come experience what we have to offer.”

Those offerings are eclectic and enticing. Two of the most popular dishes, he said, are the dramatically different oven-baked meatloaf and “Plantation Salmon” topped with crabmeat and a caramelized pecan sauce.

Fried green tomatoes top a list of often-requested appetizers that also includes shrimp wontons, bacon-wrapped scallops and chipotle-spiced shredded chicken flautas served with creme fraiche and pico de gallo. Sillings readily admits he’ll borrow an

RockWall Bistro (812) 948-1705|3426 Paoli Pike

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exceptional recipe when he finds one, such as the artichoke and bacon dip he enjoyed at Magnolia’s in Charleston, North Carolina.

“After all, it’s all about making good food, isn’t it?” Sillings said.

“It’s exceptional, and our diners think so too.”

Sillings grew up working for his father, who spent the postwar years building a 20-unit chain of hamburger stands known as Duffy’s. When they were later sold off (one, coincidentally, to Fondrisi in 1977 for the original Rocky’s), he talked George Keller, the founder of Tumbleweed, into adding a new Tumbleweed franchise in Southern Indiana. During the next 20 years Sillings went on to develop seven Tumbleweed locations, from Salem, Indiana to Lexington, Kentucky, then sold out to retire in 1996. It took him only a few years, though, to realize that retirement with crossword puzzles and golf wasn’t his cup of tea.

“I’d rather die while putting up a fight than just wasting away doing nothing,” Sillings said. “And when I saw the [RockWall] site become available, I decided to stick my neck out and try something nicer than was around.”

Dealing with a chef who “kept sliding off into Cajun” and several different managers over five years has given him an education, he said, and the experience has helped RockWall find a steady yet creative center. Chef Evan Burch now executes the star offerings while pastry chef Ada Silva King, who trained at Lilly’s, further enriches the bill of fare with memorable desserts.

The interior’s casually elegant mix of booths, linen-covered tables and gleaming wood chairs is heightened by current works from regional artists.

“The second Thursday of every month, we have a ‘meet the artist’ evening where they come and talk about their work,” Sillings said.“We’ve had glass artist Jonathan Swanz, sculptor David Kocka, watercolorist Cathy Hillegas and ceramist Norman Silva. It has been very popular.”

But even with his instinct to do “something nicer,” Sillings says he’s reaching for a crowd that enjoys being relaxed — and he said casual works. “I like places like Seattle and the Bay Area, where entrepreneurs work hard but are used to casual environments,” Sillings said. “We want people to feel comfortable here, whether they’re in suit coats or jeans.”

In addition to the artist evenings, the restaurant has started a small weekend brunch menu, offers half-off bottles of wine on Tuesday evenings and now offers take-out box lunches to professional offices and others who might request them.

Sillings readily points out challenges he faces: changing dining patterns and more competition.“New developments like Veterans Parkway have brought more options than two years ago and diluted things. Gas prices have gone up, and we’re out of the way,” Sillings said. “But 99 percent of those who come in love the place and 90 percent return. I still have faith.”

RockWall’s Plantation Salmon is finished with a pecan caramel glaze and is topped with lump crab meat.

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people and places profiles

BY GREG GAPSIS | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

Stratto’s Sam Anderson

S

am Anderson, another seasoned Southern Indiana restaurateur, is breaking ground with a well-thought-out venture on the quieter fringes of Clarksville’s burgeoning mall district.

Stratto’s, which opened in 2006 on the west end of Louis & Clark Parkway in a historic house surrounded by 100-year-old trees, says he has a simple mission: to deliver exceptional food at competitive prices.

“We’re trying to overcome the myth that you have to go to Louisville for a great dining experience,” Anderson said.

He is quick to avoid characterizing Stratto’s as a “fine dining” destination or a place too formal in which to feel comfortable.

“Southern Indiana is not a blue-collar market, but for years it’s been what I call ‘light blue collar’,” Anderson said. “It is very pricesensitive. We want to respond to that as well as give people an alternative to eating in Louisville.”

Anderson found a way to succeed like few others when he opened Sam’s Food & Spirits off Blackiston Mill Road in 1985 and, later, at Highlander Point in Floyds Knobs. A combination between a TGIFriday’s and a local chain called the Cape Codder, Sam’s was

the only choice until recently if you wanted something other than diner-style or fast food fare in Floyd County.

Urged on by a group of investors who both are familiar with the area’s changing demographics and believe excellence will be supported, he is trying to recreate that success at a new level.

“I like to say we are ‘chef-driven’ rather than a fine dining destination,” Anderson said.“Fine dining can scare some people off who think they might not belong.”

Comfortable seating in front of large windows is the norm at Stratto’s, augmented by a clubby bar area distinguished by dark natural wood, black leather seating and multiple vantage points from which to take in large, flat-screen televisions. A generous outside deck and patio under overspreading trees promises both shade and enticement to alfresco dining on summer afternoons and evenings.

The setting serves to frame and complement the food Chef Tony Efstratiadis, previously with the Napa Grill, is producing in the kitchen.

“Our pan-seared Sirloin Braciola, stuffed with fresh shrimp, asparagus and parmesan, truly can be eaten with just a fork,”

Stratto’s (812) 945-3496|318 W. Lewis & Clark Pkwy.

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Anderson said.“The grilled rosemary salmon with fresh tomato salsa is very popular, just as are our more traditional dishes like spaghetti marinara, fettuccine Alfredo, and chicken or veal saltimbocca.”

To ensure family groups can find what they want, the menu includes meat and vegetarian lasagnas, four-cheese raviolis, and piccata or parmesan chicken, veal or eggplant. A grilled pork tenderloin with Madeira sauce, a 10-ounce strip steak topped with roasted garlic butter or traditional shrimp scampi are also available.

Lighter fare includes soups, grilled chicken, crab cake or shrimp salads and an interesting selection of appetizers: small pizzas, stuffed mushrooms, Tuscan crab cakes or Italian nachos, a clever blend of Alfredo sauce, gorgonzola, crisped prosciutto and chopped banana peppers over chips.

It’s an enticing mix, but Anderson worries that too many diners are hesitant to try a local restaurant. “It amazes me that people will wait hours to go to a chain to see if they get the same meal they were served at another location [of that chain],” Anderson said, referring to the strong traffic at national franchises along nearby Veterans Memorial Parkway. “There is a hesitation to explore.

“I was in one of the national chain outlets that opened locally and they actually had a sign up that said ‘Parties of six or more will not sit together’,” Anderson said.“They were asking you to accommodate yourself to their concept.At Stratto’s,” he said,“we’ll accommodate you. Special orders don’t upset us. It’s O.K. to slow down and enjoy your dinner, we want you to have a good experience.

“We will match our quality against Jeff Ruby’s or Morton’s, at better prices than Olive Garden, and believe we are offering a better experience.”

Anderson also believes there is a bias against Southern Indiana that must be overcome.

“We have to work harder than most places,” he said. “You don’t just open up and get busy. But we are unlike any other place, intimate, unique, but with our feet on the ground. What we have, we do well.”

To attract clientele, Anderson has adjusted the menu offerings and added special promotions like Wine down Wednesdays, with half-price bottles, and Finlandia Thursdays. Recently, they have started offering Sunday brunches to appeal to people looking for a new dining experience after church.

Stratto’s Gorgonzola Filet

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Bistro New Albany David Clancy

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hef David Clancy scouted locations on both sides of the Ohio River before settling on an old hotel on Market Street in downtown New Albany as the ideal site for his restaurant, Bistro New Albany. Already renovated by John Dowling for use as a music store, repair center and teaching venue, the old New Albany Inn already had a comfortable restaurant space and delightful outdoor patio that just called for a professional to operate there.

Brought up in the restaurant scene and culture of the San Francisco area, Clancy filled the bill. After leaving the Bay Area, he had moved to Louisville and worked at Lilly’s and Avalon, spent two years as executive chef at Portico’s at Caesar’s casino, then opened the Morton’s on Main Street. Combining an enthusiasm for food with a realistic view about what it takes to succeed, Clancy knew what he was getting into.

Bistro New Albany (812) 949-5227|148 E. Market Street

“You have to have an attractive price point and generous portions,” Clancy said. “Yes, I want to run a good business, and I thought we could develop a good lunch trade pretty quickly to anchor us. We have, with a good response from lawyers, bankers, C.P.A.’s and church people from right here downtown.”

But when you spend just a few more minutes talking with Clancy or reading his posts on the LouisvilleHotBytes forum online, where he and many area “foodies” congregate, you know Bistro New Albany is more than just a business model. It’s a dedicated celebration of sustainable agriculture and the slow-food movement, committed to presenting quality local ingredients and produce.

“There is a large element of education in what we are trying to do. I won’t say it’s a lack of sophistication but a lack of exposure among local diners,” Clancy said. “We always strive to use local suppliers for a unique polenta, the bison we serve, our beers from local microbreweries, even our cheeses. Many know we use goat cheese but don’t yet appreciate that it is Judy Schad’s awardwinning Capriole produced right here in Greenville.”

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Clancy wins high praise for his dishes and the space in which he operates, decorated as it is with a whimsical angel-filled ceiling mural by Donna Stepp and a wall-sized mural by Glenda Krauss depicting New Orleans’ French Quarter — with Bistro New Albany added to the Bourbon Street scene. A front room, recently enlarged to accommodate groups, features large windows offset by stained glass panels, eclectic art and musical instruments hanging from the ceiling.

Outside, the brick-walled patio is graced with a central fountain and hibiscus and wisteria twining up an iron staircase.

“The place says ‘New Orleans’,” Clancy said. “And we do Cajun and Creole, but I did not want to get caught up in a niche, but do French and Italian too.”

A recent menu featured ruby trout, pork chops, a bistro chicken sauté with Cajun pasta, and Gulf Coast crab cakes with remoulade sauce. Even a simple spinach salad, loaded with toasted walnuts, bacon, onions and blue cheese and dressed with dark malt vinaigrette, was a celebration of satisfying, earthy flavors.

Clancy says a team approach is essential to what he is trying to accomplish. “You need staff who enjoy coming to work or the clientele will pick up on it. I’m proud that we have a 90 percent retention rate,” Clancy said. “I learned this at Italian Colors, a hugely successful place started by Alan Connor in the Bay Area, where you could feel the energy the moment you walked in. I’m striving for that, so we’ll do things like go bowling or watch movies on Monday nights.”

Clancy says Bistro New Albany established its presence during its first year of operation and he expects business to grow in the coming year.

“We’re all pioneers in our own right,” Clancy said. “I’m downtown. Gary (Sillings) is in the Knobs. Sam (Anderson) and Tony (Efstratiadis) are over in Clarksville. We’re all trying to capture attention and an audience we are sometimes not sure is there.

There is an element of ‘build it and they will come.’ There are a lot of visionaries here now and I’m one of them. It’s going to take time, but people know we’re here and that we’re doing good stuff.” F&D

Bistro New Albany’s Gulf Coast crab cakes with a spicy Cajun remoulade.

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BY RON JOHNSON

Northern Kentucky

Cincinnati’s Southern Indiana

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or thern Kentucky is a boom town. While much of the country languishes in a flat housing market and a sluggish economy, the three counties that comprise Northern Kentucky continue to surge ahead with gaudy budget surpluses and robust job growth. Across the river, the Queen City of Cincinnati struggles to maintain its status in the face of suburban flight, but Campbell, Kenton, and Boone counties ride a wave of double-digit population and job growth.

Covington serves as the de facto capital and downtown of the region, but the fierce loyalty that citizens hold for their individual burgs ensures that Nor thern Kentucky will forever be a conglomeration of small fiefdoms rather than a more traditional big city. Who knows? Perhaps the secret to this region’s success is that it never really followed the urban/suburban dichotomy. Covington is the region’s urban center, and it has been the beneficiar y of both grassroots revival and large-scale corporate-financed growth. Forward-thinking individuals on shoestring budgets have 28 Summer 2007 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

quietly restored historic buildings as art galleries, restaurants and condos, while mammoth Corporex and others have financed multi-million dollar riverfront developments. The most recent development — the Daniel Liebskind-designed, modern-art high-rise condo called the Ascent — epitomizes the region’s growth in the way it twists majestically skyward.

With all the dollars flowing into the area, it is not surprising that a diverse and thriving restaurant scene has blossomed in the last decade. The restaurants cater not only to the homegrown population but to an increasing number of Cincinnatians who venture across the Ohio River to see what all the fuss is about. They quickly discover that a lot of the fuss is over places that have been serving consistently delicious meals for generations. At the Greyhound Tavern, Monday and Tuesday nights mean fried chicken dinners and long lines at the door.

The set-price dinner loads tables with platters of steaming fried chicken, mashed potatoes, green beans, cole slaw, and buttermilk biscuits. Go early or make

reservations, because waiting for a table while these heavenly aromas waft in from the dining room can be a special kind of torture. Equally well established in local lore is Walt’s Hitching Post. Boasting a menu of home-style cooking, barbecue, and steaks, it is little wonder that Walt’s is the long-standing unofficial headquarters for many politicians and journalists in the region.

Another local stalwart is Pompillio’s in downtown Newport. In an area with an almost overwhelming German accent, Pompillio’s long ago established itself as the people’s favorite alternative to sauerkraut, wursts, and schnitzel. They keep it simple with the classic dishes of Southern and Northern Italy, comfortably Americanized and priced for the families that have formed their core clientele for decades. A slightly newer and perhaps more cuttingedge Italian alternative is Vito’s. Here the chef has opted for a menu that at first glance may appear fashionably trendy, but in reality simply showcases authentic Italian dishes in a less Americanized form. No

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longer the best-kept secret in Fort Thomas,Vito’s has become one of the top spots for Italian food on either side of the river.

One cannot live on pasta alone, and the most logical alternative in most minds is pizza. Sure, there is the usual proliferation of national chains offering indistinguishable products; but a couple of dynamite alternatives that make a short drive in the car seem better than delivery to your door.

Easily the best pizza in Northern Kentucky, if not all of Cincinnati as well, is found at Nicky’s in Hebron. One exit past the Cincinnati Airport (which, of course, is located in Northern Kentucky) you’ll find this home of true New York City-style pizza.The proprietors are transplants from New Jersey who just couldn’t develop a taste for the big chains, so they opened their own place. It’s a small hole-in-the-wall, and it does almost entirely a carry-out business, but the pies are the real deal.

The second best place to grab a pizza is in Newport in the Levee Complex. Dewey’s is one of the few locally-owned and operated restaurants in the upscale mall and cinema complex that sits atop of the old levee overlooking the river and downtown Cincinnati. With one other location over in Cincinnati, Dewey’s has built a well-earned following among families for high-quality pizza. Diners get to watch the pizzaiolos toss the dough in the open kitchen while they peruse a well chosen wine list and pick a pie from the dozen or more specialties on the menu.

One of the benefits conferred on the region by the location of Toyota’s corporate offices in Boone County has been the arrival of several excellent Japanese restaurants. AOI, another good locallyowned restaurant in the Newport on the Levee complex in addition to Dewey’s.

AOI features a classic Japanese menu combining sushi with hot dishes in a very traditionally decorated space. Once you’re inside the restaurant, it is hard to remember that you’re in the same Levee complex that houses an IMAX theatre and the aquarium. As good as AOI is, though, the best Japanese restaurant in the region by general acclaim is Jo An. Originally opened as an oasis for newly transplanted Japanese executives with Toyota, Jo An quickly became something of a mecca for sushi lovers from the greater Cincinnati area and beyond. Discreetly tucked away in

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an office building near the airport, there is little fanfare surrounding this modest temple of sushi and sashimi. The verdict is consistently unanimous; to find better sushi one needs to visit Japan, and even then there is no guarantee it will beat Jo An. Japanese is not the only Asian cuisine represented in Northern Kentucky by any measure. Classic Hong Kong preparations of Cantonese classics have been enjoyed for more than 20 years at the Oriental Wok now located in Fort Mitchell. Lovers of Thai cuisine have a choice between two worthwhile destinations in Sweet Basil and Mai’s Thai. The latter is located out in Florence off U.S. 42 in a building that once housed Long John Silver’s. The interior has been splendidly redecorated to evoke the atmosphere of a Thai inn, complete with teak and wicker. Sweet Basil is more modestly appointed but prepares Thai cuisine that is every bit as good as Mai Thai.

The influx of Mexican immigrants that has brought excellent and authentic cuisine to most of Kentucky has reached the northernmost counties as well. Tacqueria Mercado on Dixie Highway in Edgewood features the now familiar cuisine of the Puebla region: tacos, tamales, tortas, burritos, all of which can be had with carne asada, crackling carnitas, spicy pork “al pastor” and smoky chicken. Fontova’s on Scott Street in downtown Covington is a slightly different type of place, with a more adventurous menu offering regional specialties from all parts of Mexico with an emphasis on the coastal towns. Opened by a family that sells tortillas to supermarkets all over the state, the restaurant really pays homage to the variety of cuisine that comes from south of the border.

If any one single destination offers the best feel for the Northern Kentucky dining scene, it would have to be Mainstrasse Village in downtown Covington. This restored historic district is home to a mélange of restaurants, pubs, coffee houses, quaint shops, and bohemian hair salons. Anchoring the corner of the main intersection is the local favorite Dee Felice.

Opened as a labor of love by a local jazz musician and handed down to his children, this restaurant has been a hit since day one. Evoking the spirit of New Orleans with a Creole menu and a rollicking jazz band there is no doubt that Dee Felice is about a lot more than the food. People come for a good time, and night after night

Dee Felice delivers. Across the street is Chez Nora where the bar scene is de rigueur for the professional crowd. The open-top roof deck often draws a slightly younger crowd than the downstairs bar, and the menu of classic American dishes entices most of the happy hour regulars to stay for dinner. Those who don’t stay usually amble down the block to Otto’s.

This small restaurant is another family affair with the husband in the kitchen and the wife running the front of the house. The menu is short but chock full of wellprepared and sometimes eccentric dishes with plenty of familiar favorites to satisfy a diverse table of diners.

Perhaps the best indication of Northern Kentucky’s restaurant revival is the fact that Jean-Robert de Cavell has arrived. The chef who is famous for the very upscale Pigall’s in downtown Cincinnati and the always jam-packed Bistro Jean-Ro has made his way across the river in recent years. His first order of business was to open an authentic Parisian pâtisserie and café.The Greenup Café gets its name from the street where it sits, but the cuisine is pure France. Jean-Robert imported his own French baker who turns out an astounding assortment of croissants, pastries, and other delicacies available for carry-out or in the dining room.A full menu for breakfast, lunch and dinner offers casual and equally French fare for those who need more sustenance.

Not satisfied with a single restaurant in any town, Jean-Robert quickly added to his new empire by relocating the critically acclaimed Vietnamese/French fusion restaurant Pho Paris from Cincinnati to its new digs on Greenup Street just down from the Café.

The cuisine here features the ingredients and classic dishes of Vietnam tamed with French technique and sauce making. The result is a menu that truly offers the best of both worlds.

No longer existing in the shadow of Cincinnati, Northern Kentucky has firmly established itself as a place that rivals if not surpasses its cross-river rival in many ways.

Even without the inevitable comparisons to Cincinnati, there is no doubt that Northern Kentucky has developed an enviable dining scene that is enjoyed by locals and visitors alike. F&D OPPOSITE PAGE:

Greenup Café’s pan-seared ruby trout with a brown butter lemon caper sauce. www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Summer 2007 29

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recipes louisville’s restaurant favorites

BY ROBIN GARR | PHOTOS BY DAN DRY

s ’ e r a l Vo Osso Buco Milanese Osso Buco: In the dialect of Milan, its name means “bone with a hole,” a literal translation that’s factually accurate but that falls well shor t of fully describing this succulent Nor thern Italian comfort food.

Like many comfort-food dishes, it’s a relatively simple dish to prepare, but one that requires long, slow cooking in moist heat, tightly covered in a moderate oven so the flavors of veal, vegetables and herbs will gently blend as the veal approaches falling-apart tenderness.

The veal hind shank — sliced from the calf ’s hind leg — starts as a tough cut, but “It turns, when done, into one of the most tender morsels of meat one can eat,” says Italian cookery guru Marcella Hazan in her The Classic Italian Cookbook. “A properly cooked osso buco needs no knife; it can be broken up with a fork.”

At Louisville’s Volare Italian Ristorante, Chef Dallas McGarity cooks his osso buco for a full five hours, simmering gently until it almost falls apart when you look at it. Hazan’s traditional recipe calls for two hours for the standard version with tomatoes, 2 to 21/2 hours for the alternate white osso buco, a more delicate dish gently flavored with gremolata, an aromatic blend of parsley, garlic and lemon zest.

McGarity says he offers the white version as an occasional special dish; the red enjoys a permanent spot on the menu, where it’s one of Volare’s most popular dishes. “It’s traditional, it’s simple, and people like it,” he said.“And you don’t usually make it at home.”

This easy recipe may change that. McGarity usually makes it in batches of 28 at a time.This cut-down version serves two, and may easily be doubled for four.

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Volare’s

Osso Buco Milanese (SERVES 2 - 4) 1

/2 cup diced onion /2 cup diced carrot 1 /2 cup diced celery 1 /2 cup olive oil 2 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary 11/2 cups tomato sauce (canned or fresh) 1 /2 cup dry red wine 4 ounces demiglace 1 /2 cup all-purpose flour Salt Black pepper 2 veal hind shanks, center-cut, about two inches thick 1

1. Peel and dice the onion and carrot; dice the celery. Coarsely chop the rosemary.

Sauté the chopped onion, carrot and celery (chefs call it a mirepoix) in about half the olive oil until the ingredients turn translucent.

2. Add the rosemary, tomato sauce, wine and demiglace to the sautéed vegetables to make a sauce. (If you don’t wish to make your own demiglace, use Minor’s brand, available at Lotsa Pasta and other specialty stores; don’t substitute or skip this ingredient, which adds significantly to the richness of the dish.) Bring the sauce to a simmer and cook for about 30 minutes until it thickens.

3. Put about four tablespoons of the flour on a plate and season well with salt and pepper. “Dredge” the shanks in the flour, one at a time, placing the meat on the flour, then turning it, tapping the flour-coated meat on the plate so any excess will fall off, leaving a thin coating on the meat.

4. Put the remaining olive oil in a sauté pan or skillet over high heat. When the oil is sizzling, put in the flour-dredged shanks and sauté them, about four minutes on each side, until they’re nicely crusted and brown.

5. Put the browned shanks in a deep baking dish just large enough to hold them, and pour the sauce over them.

Cover the baking dish tightly. (If you don’t have a lid to fit, you can tightly cover the top with plastic wrap, then aluminum foil.

6. Bake for 21/2 to 5 hours at 350 degrees, and serve with a saffron risotto or mashed potatoes. F&D www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Summer 2007 31

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BY ROBIN GARR

too darn hot!

I’d like to sup with my baby tonight, Fulfill the cup with my baby tonight, But I ain’t up to my baby tonight, ’Cause it’s too darn hot.

— Cole Porter’s “Kiss Me, Kate”

I

n the unlikely event we have any wine snobs in the audience, they might want to tune out now: Today’s sermon proposes mixing wine with fruit and soda.

Gasp!

But desperate times call for desperate measures, and when it’s too darn hot, a glass of Pinot Noir or even cool Chardonnay doesn’t always have the appeal that it might during more temperate times.

Summer’s heat inspires irreverent approaches to wine, variations that snobs might consider heretical. Whoever first ruled that red wine must be served at room temperature, for example, clearly never lived through an Ohio Valley summer.

In fact, the “serve reds warm” rule for wine was invented in drafty European castles, where room temperature was generally around 60 degrees and people wore long pants and sweaters right through the summer. In Louisville, even under air conditioning, there’s no harm in popping your red wine in the fridge for an hour before dinner — or even into the freezer for 20 minutes or so.

Just don’t forget it’s in there.

We’re talking cool here; taking reds down to freezing really is bad juju, as it robs them — temporarily — of their good flavor.

And, as long as we’re breaking the rules, here’s another harmless way to feel daring: If your glass of red isn’t satisfying you on a sultry

afternoon, drop in an ice cube. The quick chill and slight dilution may just make it seem more refreshing. Don’t overdo it, though: Watering down wine used to be a hanging offense, and justly so.

And then we come to thoughts of sangría and spritzers — tall, cool and refreshing summer cocktails built on a base of wine.

Fruity and refreshing, they make the thermometer seem to drop by 10 degrees or more. And because you’re knocking down the wine’s alcoholic content with soda, you can safely enjoy a tall one, or maybe two, without reaching the stage where serious misbehavior becomes likely.

The recipes are simple, and they’re infinitely variable to your taste.

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SANGRÍA First, let’s consider Sangría, the Spanish summer wine punch that’s the next best thing to a personal, portable air conditioner. A big bowl of it fashioned from a modest Spanish red — or really any good, drinkable red or white — makes a fine companion at poolside or on the porch.

Here’s the basic procedure: Pour one bottle (750 ml) of dry red wine and an equal amount of club soda or seltzer into a punch bowl. Add thin slices of citrus fruit — limes, lemons, oranges or a combination — to your taste. As optional extras, give it a shot of brandy or orange-flavored liqueur.

If you like it sweet, add a little sugar. For a change of pace, make it with white wine, or even a cheap Spanish bubbly.Try substituting slices of kiwi or whole strawberries or table grapes for the citrus. Sangría is a forgiving punch — it doesn’t care if you change the rules in the middle of the bowl.

The wine you use to make Sangría should be palatable, of course, but you don’t want to pour expensive wine into a casual drink like this. I generally shoot for ethnic solidarity by picking an inexpensive Spanish red — look for wines from Jumilla or La Mancha — but any modest, flavorful red will do — a Cotes du Rhone, a fruity-style Australian Shiraz or a California Merlot.

SPRITZER When summer’s moist blanket of steamy heat holds us in its sweaty grip, even the most dedicated wine lover starts thinking about something more cooling and refreshing than even the iciest glass of bubbly or chilled rosé.

How about a spritzer to take the edge off the heat?

Most often made with white wine but just as quenching with a red or even a sweet wine or liqueur, a basic spritzer is so simple that it hardly requires a recipe: Head for the refrigerator, pull out a bottle of chilled wine and a bottle of club soda, and pour some of each into a tall glass over lots of ice. Add a twist of lemon or lime if you wish, or try something more wacky — a length of cool cucumber, for instance, or a few frozen wine grapes, and enjoy.

With both drinks, I suggest starting with half wine and half club soda to see how you like it.Then try changing the proportions — more wine for a more hearty drink, more soda for a light, gulpable treat — until you get it just right for you.

Too darn hot? Not any more! F&D www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Summer 2007 33

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BY ROGER A. BAYLOR

lawnmower Beer Night was a wonderful time in Brooklyn in the 1930s. Air conditioning was unknown except in movie houses, and so was television. There was nothing to keep one in the house.

Furthermore, few people owned automobiles, so there was nothing to carry one away.That left the streets and the stoops.The very fullness served as an inhibition to crime.

— Isaac Asimov

W

hat sort of beer might the denizens of Asimov’s nostalgic borough have been drinking on their stoops during a hot summer’s night? Probably Schaefer or Rheingold, both local lagers of the era; or maybe even Ballantine Ale, although as a top-fermented beer it would have been far more rare.

There is no surviving evidence that either Belgian-style Wit or Bavarian Hefe-Weizen were widely considered ideal seasonal ales suitable for varying the routine, although there may well have been immigrants who recalled these styles from their childhoods abroad.

Today many of us are aware that we have expanded beer choices; but sadly there remain links between 1930s-era fans hopping from a streetcar to queue for Ebbets Field bleacher seats, and their grandchildren in 2007, multi-taskers buying tickets by cell phone on the Internet and arriving for the big game at Dodger Stadium in a fully equipped SUV. Most beer drinkers remain brand-loyal, mechanically opting for the same mass-market golden lager beer that they always drink, rain or shine, heat or cold, indoors or outdoors.

The ubiquity of air conditioning quite honestly leaves me perplexed as I consider the genre of “lawnmower beer,” an 34 Summer 2007 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

umbrella term that playfully implies a brew suitable for the climactic extremes of summertime — lighter in body, milder in flavor, lower in alcohol, and more quaffable overall — without specifying a particular beer style.

Lest the disclaimer police intervene, “lawnmower beer” is not intended as a subliminal suggestion to drink it by the gallon while actively engaged in the task of cutting grass. Not even if the padded seat situated atop the whirling blades of vegetation suppression comes equipped with a handy cup holder, designer huggies and perhaps even a dorm fridge in the sidecar.

Still, the term does assume proximity to uncomfortable elements and those diverse warm weather outdoor venues for enjoying beer — ballparks, patios, backyard barbecues and picnics — even if by now far more of my favorite beverage is being consumed inside where it’s air-conditioned than outside in the encroaching aftermath of global warming.

Air-conditioned or open-air, when it comes to “lawnmower beer,” the beer styles I prefer resemble the higher octane of liquid that’s poured into the lawnmower’s fuel tank, not those refreshing splashes from the garden hose when the clipping’s all through. Still, there is a case to be made for friendly seasonal beer styles, at least as long as you save the fruit wedges for rum drinks. Please.

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Ales made with wheat Apar t from a few high-gravity specialties, the use of wheat in place of barley as the primary brewing grain almost axiomatically implies a “lawnmower beer.”

If it’s based on the Belgian brewing tradition, wheat ale will be light-bodied, cloudy golden, and spiced with coriander and orange peel. Not unexpectedly, these ingredients yield a citrusy, consummately refreshing character. Common examples include Hoegaarden and Wittekerke, both imports, and Upland Wheat, a superior regional microbrew from Bloomington, Indiana.

German-style wheat ales are cousins to the Belgian but very different in style.

They’re generally unfiltered (“Hefe-”), golden but sometimes brown (“Dunkel”), and redolent with distinctive flavors of clove and fruit that derive entirely from the strain of yeast used to ferment them. Having traveled in Bavaria, I tend to stick to the imported Teutonic classics: Franziskaner, Weihenstephaner, Erdinger, Tucher, and my personal favorite, Schneider.

Closer to home, if microbrewed wheat ale is not otherwise tagged as Belgian or German, chances are it is what we now refer to as “American-style” wheat, fermented with ordinary ale yeast not specifically cultured for the nuances that identify continental variants. These wheaties come to your glass as designed, to be light, inoffensive, effervescent and quaffable. So many competing brands exist — and there is so little difference among the bulk of them — that I’ll mention only one: Bell’s Oberon.

Inevitably, these categories overlap to some degree. For instance, the “Hefe-” prefix on the label of a microbrewed wheat ale emphatically does not guarantee that it was brewed with characteristically toothsome German wheat yeast, although in my view it should. Rather, the word in this context should be taken to imply unfiltered wheat ale brewed with regular ale yeast.

Toward refreshingly hoppy During the past quarter century, American microbrewers have established a reputation for improvisational exuberance, and among the very first instances of this willingness to expand boundaries is a style

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that many “extreme beer” aficionados now regard as quaint and almost dull: American Pale Ale, which adapts English traditions to contemporary ingredients, primarily indigenous to the West Coast.

There is a vestige of similarity to the aforementioned Ballantine of old.

Gravities are modest, with alcohol contents rarely approaching 6 percent.The selection of malts is usually simple, and hardy yeasts perform their conversion miracles quickly, leaving a medium body with a fruity and lightly toasty backbone.

Bitterness is restrained, but floral hops like the Cascade variety offer piney, citrusy notes. If you detect a hoppy scent that resembles grapefruit, it’s purely intentional; it makes American Pale Ale a reliable thirst quencher on sultry afternoons.

Sierra Nevada Pale Ale remains a viable, dependable yardstick, but don’t stop there. Most microbreweries have contestants in a similar vein, including these:

BBC APA: founding brewer David Pierce’s Louisville classic (Kentucky).

Schlafly Dry-Hopped APA: a shade milder than Sierra (Missouri).

Stone Pale Ale: surprising balance from an “extreme” brewer (California).

Bell’s Pale Ale: not as notorious as Two Hearted (Michigan).

Rogue Juniper Ale: hopping augmented by juniper berries (Oregon).

In the name of science alone In early June, still resisting the budgetbusting “cool” setting on the thermostat, I resolved to conduct an experiment.

Proceeding eagerly to the refrigerator science lab, I withdrew a 9 percent alcohol Ettaler Curator Doppelbock from Bavaria.

Would I be able to somehow choke down such a heavy, malty, challenging dark lager in overheated, sticky, pestilential conditions?

Yep. Not a problem at all.

Then again, I pay some other guy to mow the grass — and from the second floor window, he looked positively overheated. F&D www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Summer 2007 35

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BY DAVID LANGE

Cruisin’ the

Espresso Bars I

t wasn’t all that long ago that the expression “cruisin’ the bars” meant visiting neighborhood watering holes, imbibing the cultural elixir of the establishment and honing up one’s social skills.

Many of these locales became the starting point of both short-lived and eternal relationships. But as time passes by, customs change and attitudes shift; we find new places to go to meet people, sample innovative libations and fill up our social calendars. Nowadays, coffee houses and espresso bars have grown up to fill this void in many individuals’ lives.

With coffee bars playing a more prominent part in the social scenes today, it seemed a good time to visit and compare a variety of them in the region. For purposes of this analysis, I divided local coffee houses into four categories: national chains, local chains, local independent favorites and up-and-coming independent locations. I wanted to compare the atmosphere, pricing format and presentation of their wares. Since espresso is the basic building block of the coffee house business, 36 Summer 2007 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

I decided to critique each location’s simple, basic, single-shot espresso as the benchmark of my effort to determine whether it is the “Butcher town Pub” or the “Studebaker’s” of the local coffee scene. I took close note of the presentation, the crema, the aroma, and taste of each offering, because, after all, espresso is where all good coffee drinks begin.

National Chains I started my journey at the only national coffee house chain in Louisville, Starbucks. It certainly is the largest, and it definitely has all the “buzz items” of the coffee house environment: big comfortable chairs, cool tunes and all the right effects that make it socially acceptable. I started with Starbucks because it is also the most recognizable in the area. But does it have enough clout to run away with all the beans? My espresso cup was not preheated, which resulted in a tepid drink that cooled quickly. The much-desired crema, (the rich, desirable cap of caramelcolor foam that crowns the top of a well-

drawn espresso shot) was there, but then it played hide-and-seek and quickly disappeared.The aroma was very faint, and the flavor of this black elixir was almost carbony and muddy in taste with a peculiar aftertaste. One of my pet peeves is requiring trained baristas to perform their trade on a super-automatic espresso brewer. Where is the romance? What happens to the artistry? It certainly wasn’t found here.

Local Chains Heine Bros. Coffee has been a hometown favorite for many years, and their numerous local outlets prove the loyalty of their many patrons.Though not as slick and glitzy as other larger chains, it demonstrates the earthiness that takes us back to coffee’s roots. My espresso came in a preheated ceramic cup, and it exhibited a perfect crema that lasted the life of the drink. The aroma was rich, and its flavor evoked memories of chocolate, spice and a small background hint of caramel. The welltrained barista at the Frankfort Avenue

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shop worked his magic with flair and expertise.

Java Brewing Company, of more recent vintage, entertains its many patrons with clean, hip shops and unique décor. My simple shot of espresso was served in a warmed demitasse cup, and the aroma exhaled during the brewing was carried over into the cup. Unfortunately, I can’t comment on the crema, because it had vanished by the time I had taken it back to the table. The flavor of the espresso was bittersweet, with hints of tobacco, chocolate and wine with a floral aftertaste. Java Brewing’s Frankfort Avenue shop has all of the amenities of larger chains with the décor, music, and even a drive-thru. The drinks are brewed by knowledgeable baristas via a traditional espresso brewer.

Highland Coffee boasts two locations, both echoing the character of the neighborhood they are in: downtown and the Highlands. The barista at the Bardstown Road shop drew my single shot into a ceramic demitasse, but I was surprised that the finished shot was over 31/2 ounces in volume, more than double the standard 1 to 11/2 ounces per shot. Because of this “long pour,” the crema was nonexistent, and the flavor was ver y weak and extremely bitter. There was no aroma, also attributable to the unacceptably long pour. The atmosphere here is eclectic, and it contains all the necessities that enhance the coffee culture.

Local Favorites Although the following coffee houses only have single shops, this doesn’t water down the proprietors’ passion for great coffee. Sunergos really displays this obsession for excellence. It is not only an espresso bar, but it boasts a coffee roaster in a glassed-in section. My espresso was served in a warmed ceramic demitasse, and the crema was dense and amber in color.

Although its crema quickly dissipated, the intense flavor didn’t, as it maintained a rich, concentrated mouthfeel.The interior décor is unquestionably diverse, and the mounds of full coffee sacks scattered around the room add to the ambiance and essence.

The attending barista was knowledgeable as he crafted his artisan wares. My only disappointment was the layer of grounds that lined the bottom of my cup.

Caffe Classico, in the Frankfor t Avenue corridor is a replica of many of

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the European coffee cafés I have visited. I was served my single espresso in a warmed demitasse cup with iced water on the side. A wrapped chocolate square adorned my saucer, a very classy touch.The crema was thick, honey-colored and decorated with the much sought-after “tiger stripes” on the surface.The bouquet brought back memories of Italy, as its flavor was intense with smoky notes that were silky and lingering. Its bittersweet flavor was one of the finest I had enjoyed thus far.

Not to be outdone by their neighbors south of the river, Southern Indiana boasts several coffee houses of their own. Coffee Crossing, located on Charlestown Road in New Albany, is full of atmosphere, retail merchandise, and customers. My single espresso came in the standard demitasse cup; the cup was hot and the pour correct.

The crema endured through the whole drink as it clung to the sides of the cup.The flavor was complex with hints of cocoa, tobacco, and spice that enveloped my tongue, while its aroma was earthy and deep. The barista had her choice of two espresso brewers to prepare her creations.

All of these establishments have been on the coffee scene for some time, but more coffee houses have sprouted up recently that bear mentioning. Some of these jewels are tucked away in inconspicuous hideaways, so you may have to hunt for them.

Up-and-Coming Derby City Espresso is nestled in an alcove on East Market that could very easily be overlooked by caffeine explorers.

I was met by a very friendly barista, who painstakingly brewed my single shot into a fluted clear glass. This allowed the layering of the espresso to be seen, and it highlighted the rich and dense crema. The crema remained constant through the life of the drink, while the nose and flavor of the shot were absolutely excellent. It was rewarding to see the crema cling to the sides of the glass all the way to the bottom.

The atmosphere reminded me of a New York style café, quirky, bohemian, yet inviting.

Atomic Saucer lies in the area where Oak and Swan Streets intersect and boasts a memorable environment. Besides every imaginable coffee drink, one can find music, television, reading materials and purchasable art. The very short espresso

was brewed into a ceramic demitasse, and its crema looked promising. Unfortunately, the crema almost immediately vanished and left a rather odd tasting espresso remaining. Its aroma was non-existent and its taste was almost sour and very acidic. It left a very unpleasant aftertaste. I noticed the barista had to brew the espresso three times to get the shot she wanted.

Blue Mountain Coffee House, across from Slugger Field, combines two of my utmost passions, coffee and wine. The interior is unsurpassed when it comes to furnishings and ambience. A wide array of comfortable tables and chairs await the coffee or wine enthusiast. When I ordered my espresso, things got confusing. All the drinks may be ordered with either 100 percent Jamaica Blue Mountain coffee, a Jamaican Blue Mountain blend, a Jamaican High Mountain Supreme, or a certified Fair Trade coffee; the prices vary depending on your choice. I ordered an espresso made with the 100 percent Blue Mountain and was unfortunately very disenchanted.

Using such a high-end coffee, I was expecting a real coffee experience. But when the espresso came in a 3-ounce pour, I knew my expectations would be short-lived. There was very little, if any crema, and the mouthfeel was the most bitter of any that I had tried. The coffee was very flat and tasted almost like it had fermented. Unfortunately the taste of the coffee did not match the beautiful interior of this coffee house.

After all of these visits, you can imagine how “wired” I was, but also how enlightened I had become about Louisville’s coffee environment. If I omitted your favorite coffee scene, it was not intentional.

We have a multitude of great coffee meccas in our area and I wanted to give a brief overview of some of the more noted ones. My mission was strictly non-biased: I placed the same order at each location, sat down and critiqued the drink right at the table. I really had a great time researching this project. It was rewarding to see how Louisville’s coffee culture has both evolved and matured over the years. So go out and execute some cruisin’ of your own. You might be surprised at how “Studio 54ish” Louisville has become when it comes to coffee. F&D

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BY JERRY SLATER

Summer Drink List I

n the summer, cultural magazines and television news programs roll out their seasonal reading lists.These generally feature usual suspects like the light romance, the mystery of the moment, and the historical re-issue. Looking over one list while feeling the thermometer rising, I thought about a list of my own: Summer reading by way of the cocktail, exploring some literary classics based on what the characters were drinking.

When it comes to famous writers, reports of literary drunkenness have become the stuff of legend. Hemingway had rum, Faulkner had Bourbon, and Louisville native Hunter S.Thompson drank just about anything. Not only did these writers drink, but their literary creations mirrored the authors’ lives, partaking of a little hooch. A classic example is Ian Fleming’s James Bond and his ultimate martini, The Vesper, described in Casino Royale. This drink’s classic ratio of three parts gin, one part vodka, and Kina Lillet (nowadays substituted by Lillet Blanc) is not to be missed. Yes, it was shaken, not stirred, and do not forget the “large thin slice of lemon peel.”

Let’s begin at home: What Louisvillian can claim to drink more than Hunter S. Thompson himself ? Hunter mentions mint juleps several times in The Kentucky Derby is Decadent and Depraved, but it’s summer now, so we need to turn to Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas for the Singapore Sling. Originally created in 1915 at The Raffles Hotel in Singapore, this famous sling has gone through many changes. Here is a 1990s version from The Raffles Hotel.

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Singapore Sling 11/2 ounce gin 1 /4 ounce Cointreau 1 /4 ounce Benedictine 1 /2 ounce Peter Heering Cherry Heering 2 ounce pineapple juice Dash Angostura bitters 2 dashes Grenadine 1 /2 ounce fresh lime juice Shake all ingredients together and strain into a highball glass filled with ice.Top with soda, if desired, and garnish with an orange slice and a cherry.

When we pack for a trip, we usually take with us a little something from home.

As Louisvillians, what better to pack for our journey than Bourbon? And which literary giant enjoyed Bourbon any more

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than William Faulkner? Faulkner is quoted as saying, “My own experience has been that the tools I need for my trade are paper, tobacco, food and a little whiskey.” Now, Faulkner more than likely drank his whiskey straight or with a little branch water, so what I am about to suggest may be heresy. Just right for summer, I present one of my originals:

Black and Blue 11/2 ounce Jim Beam Black Bourbon About 8 fresh blueberries 1 /2 ounce simple syrup 1 /2 ounce Navan vanilla liqueur 3 ounces soda water Muddle berries, syrup, and Navan liqueur in a shaker. Add Bourbon and ice and shake. Strain into a Collins glass filled with fresh ice. Top with soda and garnish with more blueberries on pick.

The last stop on our summer reading list is another literary great with a penchant for excess. Ernest Hemingway wrote great passages about food and drink. Reading his description of potato salad and cold beer in A Moveable Feast, for instance, will make your mouth water. I thought about including a Jack Rose — the classic cocktail of applejack, lemon juice, and grenadine that Jake Barnes orders in a Paris bar in The Sun Also Rises. Instead, I opted for the more thirst-quenching El Floridita Daiquiri (different from an El Floridita cocktail with sweet vermouth and crème de cacao), which is sometimes called a Hemingway Daiquiri or Papa Doble.This version of the daiquiri was created for Hemingway at the El Floridita bar in Havana.

The addition of grapefruit juice and the now elusive maraschino liqueur really sends the daiquiri to a whole new place.

El Floridita Daiquiri 11/2 ounce white rum 1 ounce fresh lime juice 1 /2 ounce simple syrup 1 /2 ounce maraschino liqueur 1 /2 ounce fresh grapefruit juice Shake all ingredients together and strain into a highball glass filled with ice. Garnish with a lime wedge. F&D www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Summer 2007 39

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about food alfresco dining

A balmy breeze rustles gently through a tall stand of green bamboo and the lacy leaves of a giant locust tree that spreads its protective branches overhead. It’s twilight, crickets chirp, and candles flicker in the gathering darkness, while exotic aromas drift in the air.

Your sweetie smiles at you across the damask-draped table, and the cares and worries of everyday life seem to recede in a hazy glow as you smile back and lift your icy drink.

Is this Tahiti?

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BY ROBIN GARR | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

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610 MAGNOLIA

Alfresco Dining

the season sets the table

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about food alfresco dining

BY ROBIN GARR | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

N

o. It’s Old Louisville. We’re dining in the lovely enclosed patio at 610 Magnolia, where the owner and chef Edward Lee says some of his guests actually prefer dining alfresco to the air-conditioned comfort of his sleek, sophisticated dining room on summer evenings.

In ancient times, Lee likes to point out, humans lived in a world where the nights were lighted only by fire. Everyone dined under nature’s roof, and, weather permitting, gathering around an outdoor campfire to dine was likely more pleasant than squatting inside a cave.

In a deep emotional way, Lee believes, outdoor dining satisfies unspoken needs. “For most of human history anyway, humans have eaten outdoors. Everything you eat in your dinner comes from outdoors. Produce, meat, the grapes that made your wine were all grown outdoors. Philosophically, it somehow seems like a natural fit to be eating outdoors. It’s only in recent years that we’ve moved indoors, and we still get some primal satisfaction about going back outdoors to eat.”

When the weather cooperates, at least.

“Basically, as long as the weather is okay, people love it,” Lee said. “Whenever the weather is nice, it becomes premium real estate. But it can be very difficult with the weather here in Louisville: If we get a little shower, we have to bring them inside. We have to make sure there’s room, to be able to guarantee that they can move indoors.”

Love it or hate it — and many Louisville-area restaurateurs have a distinct love-hate relationship with their patios — outdoor dining is here to stay.

Historically, old-timers report, the widespread adoption of air-conditioning in commercial space during the 1940s and ’50s brought most diners indoors to enjoy what was then the unusual privilege and comfort of artificially chilled air.

It’s only in recent years that the popularity of alfresco dining has boomed again. Nowadays, when spring comes around, just about every eatery provides the option of dining alfresco. Whether it’s an extensive piazza or grandiose stack of decks, a shady space reclaimed from a side yard or even just a few tables with patio umbrellas out front, it’s rare to find a dining establishment worth its salt and pepper that won’t find some way to serve you outdoors.

Some are plain and simple; others as fancy as modern technology will allow, with rain curtains and roll-up roofs, space heaters and cooling misters, portable air-conditioning units and hefty fans to extend the season.

On a busy Saturday night, Seviche may have a 45-minute wait outside … even if there’s immediate seating inside.

A few shady picnic groves have been around town for generations: Azalea’s beautiful walled patio goes back well over a century, dating back to original tenant Bauer’s Restaurant, founded in 1870. Although no longer in use for alfresco dining, the shade trees at Pat’s Steakhouse on Brownsboro and the old Swiss Park in Germantown shaded many an evening meal for our parents and grandparents; and Mike Linnig’s lovely picnic grounds has surely provided a cool summer setting for a few million fish sandwiches since it opened in 1947.

Perhaps most significantly, the entire concept of alfresco dining seems to be evolving, with more and more upscale restaurants developing their seasonal outdoor dining options from plastic patio furniture on the sidewalk to serious alfresco space with amenities — and a bill of fare — fully as sophisticated as the dinners served more traditionally within.

One of the longest continuously operated patios in the metro, and now certainly the largest, is the massive ziggurat of 42 Summer 2007 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

decks that cascade down to Harrods Creek and the Ohio at Captain’s Quarters on Upper River Road.

Andrew Masterson, who owns Captain’s Quarters with his brothers Brian and Paul and sister Sueanna, sketched the history of these landmark decks that attract tens of thousands of outdoor dining fanciers from early spring until the last mild breath of fall.

The original owners, Ennis and Dottie Mahon, broke virtually new ground when they built a small deck to accommodate about 30 diners back in the 1970s, he recalled. This situated Captain’s Quarters as one of the few places in the region where you could sit outside and enjoy your meal in natural comfort, although at that point the deck menu was limited to fried fish and a few snack items, while a more upscale bill of fare prevailed inside.

Later, after his tenure at Kentucky Fried Chicken and before his round as governor, John Y. Brown Jr. and an associate, Tracy Farmer, purchased the restaurant in 1978. One of the first things they did was build a bigger deck to seat 100 or so, extending

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610 Magnolia’s Root Vegetable Napoleon with Amablu Cheese and herb oil.

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about food alfresco dining down toward Harrods Creek. They added a bar so alfresco diners could enjoy libations (a regulatory breakthrough that may have tapped Brown’s political connections), and stood back and watched the crowds flood in. “That’s pretty much when outdoor dining became a big hit here,” Masterson said.

The Mastersons’ father and uncles bought the restaurant in 1987 and, sure enough, they added even more decks to accommodate another 100 sunworshippers, and a larger bar to accommodate their beverage needs.

Andrew and his siblings took over the restaurant from their parents in 1991, and in 2003, guess what? More decks still … and, as time went by, a boardwalk to the docks, ramps to expand wheelchair access.

Overall deck capacity now is about 320, certainly the largest in the region,

BY ROBIN GARR | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

actually exceeding the restaurant’s indoor seating, set by fire regulations at 280. A spiffy new tent provides cover on stormy nights; and now, portable air conditioners help with summer cooling, and space heaters to extend the season in spring and fall.

Given the popularity of alfresco, extending the season makes good business sense. At Seviche on Bardstown Road, owner-chef Anthony Lamas and his crew are working against the clock in hope of “weatherizing” the popular Latino eatery’s patio before Labor Day weekend.

The addition will put much of the restaurant’s extensive streetside patio under a retractable canvas roof borne on a soaring framework of wooden beams, Lamas said.

Requirements imposed by the metro Historical Landmarks Commission will boost the project’s original $25,000

Through a sea of umbrellas, Captain’s Quarters diners can watch boaters on the Ohio.

estimated price tag by an additional $10,000, he said, adding that the investment is worth making: “If we can get two additional weekends out of it, it will pay for itself.”

With 110 seats indoors, the 85-seat outdoor dining area almost doubles Seviche’s capacity, and when the weather is fine, many diners strongly prefer the alfresco option. “Often people wait for a table outside even if there’s immediate seating inside,” Lamas said. “On a busy Saturday night, we’ll have a 45-minute wait outside, but if we offer people a table inside, they’ll say, ‘No, we’ll wait.’ ” The love of outdoor dining is by no means limited to Louisville. Indeed, the locally based regional chain Tumbleweed Restaurants enjoyed such success with its glassed-in second floor and roof deck at its large Waterfront Park property that

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executives now plan to incorporate similar features into the chain’s new Sedona Grill concept, which is launching this year. The first property is open in Lima, Ohio, with two more coming in the Cleveland region.

“We consider it a major competitive advantage,” said Gary Snyder,Tumbleweed’s vice-president for operations. “The Sedona Grills will have a front area to seat about 48 patrons in an environment with movable glass doors and walls. Even when they’re closed, you get a great view, but on really nice days, when it’s 70-plus and the humidity is low, we can open those doors and walls, and you get that breeze right through the building. It creates a great atmosphere, providing an experience you don’t get anywhere else, outside and inside, with movable walls.”

The remarkable spring of 2007 got the alfresco season off to an unusually early

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start, with many eateries pulling the outdoor tables and chairs out of storage in March, when unseasonably balmy breezes brought out precocious buds and flowers and promised a miracle early spring.Then a record April freeze literally nipped those plans in the bud.

Said Lee, at 610 Magnolia, “We opened in March, planted a lot of flowers, then when we had that awful frost it killed all our landscaping. We thought it was going to be beautiful. Bottom line, you have to be very flexible, and for us, anyway, it’s not just concrete and plastic chairs. It can run up the price a little, especially this year when we had to do it twice.”

At Captain’s Quarters, Masterson added, getting the decks operational early runs up against the risk of flooding when the Ohio breaks out of its banks, swollen with upstream snowmelt and seasonal

A lobster heavyweight from Captain’s Quarters.

rains. Rising water quickly inundates the lower decks and, some years, actually reaches the restaurant building. The spring of 2006 saw two feet of water inside, he said; this year they watched with fingers crossed as flooding approached within a few feet of the doors.

Still, Masterson said he wouldn’t have Captain’s Quarters any other way, and neither, apparently, would his clientele. “I bang my head on the wall sometimes in the winter, wondering where all the people are.”

Just up the road from Captain’s Quarters at Eva Mae’s Creekside, owner and chef Travis Hall said the major renovations he has made since taking over the Harrods Creek property that once housed Willy B’s Smokehouse Barbecue are aimed at maximizing the view … and, he dreams, the potential for something approximating alfresco dining all year ’round.

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“We’ve got 100 seats outside and a little over 100 inside,” Hall said.

“We’ve got everything from picnic tables sitting on Harrods Creek to dockside dining; more tables with huge umbrellas on a landscaped patio, with tiki torches at night and a little stage for acoustic music.The deck around the back gives a view of the creek, all shaded with water maples and sycamores.”

When it’s rainy, he said, they’ve got more seating underneath the deck, and an upstairs room with oversize floor-to-ceiling glass panes and French doors to provide a great view.

Next up? A weatherproof canvas awning and clear plastic flaps to enclose the deck, plus space heaters to carry the venue into the winter months. “I want to do all we can to get it open as long as possible,” he said.

“We’re going to try and keep the upper deck open 12 months a year. I think we can keep it warm.”

Similar weatherproofing efforts have turned a few of the region’s most popular patios, including Bluegrass Brewing Company, Baxter Station and RockWall in Floyds Knobs, into virtually all-season dining rooms. Others, like Avalon on Bardstown, significantly extend the season at both ends by means of sturdy weather flaps and space heaters.

Just about every restaurateur who offers patio dining seems eager to maximize alfresco’s potential by starting the season as early as possible and continue it as far as possible into the autumn. Never mind what the calendar says, every restaurateur interviewed agreed: If the weather turns nice, open the patio and people will fill it up.

“We let the weather guide us, or should I say the guests,” said Tedtra Wismer, general manager at North End Café in Clifton.“I am often surprised at what kind of weather people will brave for the love of outdoor dining.We

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do have heat lamps and sides that drop to block wind and rain, and we are installing ceiling fans this week.”

Same’s true at Seviche even during the steamiest part of summer, Lamas said. “August nights can be really hot, but some people want to sit out there anyway.They say,‘Just keep the mojitos coming’ or the caipirinhas, or keep the beer cold. People are fine as long as they have a little shade from the umbrellas … but our servers don’t like it much.”

Indeed, if there’s any down side to outdoor dining, restaurateurs say, it’s in the realm of service and presentation challenges in unpredictable weather.

Said Wismer, at North End Café: “I have a real love-hate relationship going on with the patio. Outdoor dining opens a new realm of managerial focus. Fly control, additional staffing, unpredictable scheduling, the neighbor’s cat, and the demands of adding 30 additional seats to the flow of the restaurant all present new challenges.”

Still, she said, “For all the troubles, nothing beats a gorgeous morning reading the paper, sipping coffee, and having breakfast outdoors before the heat of the day sets in or sipping wine with friends and sharing a table full of tapas in the evening.The guests love it.”

At Captain’s Quarters, the sheer size and multiple levels of the decks keep servers on the run, Masterson said. “With the distance between the

Outdoor dining scenes vary in size and style, from a simple deck with umbrella tables like Molly Malone’s (below center) to state-of-the-art restaurants designed to incorporate outdoor spaces with interior spaces, such as Tumbleweed’s Riverfront Park location (below right), to majestic courtyards that evoke scenes from the New Orleans French Quarter decades ago. (Stratto’s upper left, O’Shea’s lower left, and Bistro New Albany right.)

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tables and the kitchen, it’s a challenge to keep food hot. It’s a challenge to the staff just to get a full tray from the kitchen to the lower deck.” You won’t find many overweight servers after a summer season, he said with a laugh.

Lee at 610 wrapped it all up: “If the restaurant and patio are all booked, then all of a sudden we have more volume than we’re normally used to,” he said. “We just become a bigger restaurant overnight, and

it’s a challenge. Waitstaff really need to wear different shoes if they’re going to be out in the garden. The kitchen is writing more tickets, firing more plates.

“From a food standpoint,” he went on, “you have to deal with things like wind and, in the summertime, intense sun. For a very simple example, it’s much more difficult to serve desserts with a sorbet. Indoors, under air-conditioning, you have quite a bit of time before sorbet melts. We can’t do

Alfresco views don’t get much more impressive than the scene from Buckhead’s Indiana riverfront location, where the Ohio River bridges and downtown skyline form a majestic backdrop.

48 Summer 2007 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

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very fragile or delicate garnishes outdoors.

You put a nice garnish on, it blows off the plate, or even worse, into your lap; so we may make the plate somewhat different if we know it’s going out.”

And then there’s that huge honey locust tree: “The beautiful tree provides us wonderful shade and protects us from the sun. But every year around Derby time, it sheds. If a bud falls into a glass of great wine, we have to replace the glass.”

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Moreover, ice in drinks melts quickly and cold glasses sweat. Fine wines don’t show at their best when they get too warm.

Still, he said, “People out in the garden tend to be more tolerant. They’re in a happier mood. If something falls into the wine, most of them just pop it out with a spoon and wave us off. Something about being outdoors puts people in a happier mood … food takes second stage to the outdoors.” F&D

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recipes top chef recipes

PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

Cooking with smoke is something like playing a musical instrument, says Sullivan University Chef Billy Graham.You can play a tune on solo trombone, but you can do more in a combo. And you can cook a pretty good dish with nothing but woodsmoke, but bring in a chorus of other smoke flavors and you’ve got an orchestra of flavor playing a symphony on your palate.

So when Food & Dining invited Graham and Sullivan Chef Rober t Staggs to create recipes featuring smoking and smoke flavors, Graham was ready.

“When we got that assignment, I had just come off of smoking four hogs for a student picnic,” he said.

“I was covered with smoke. But for this I didn’t just want to do smoked barbecue.”

But it’s not easy for the average home cook to pick up a whole hog on short notice, so Graham headed for Whole Foods and prowled the produce and condiment aisles. He looked for

Sullivan Chefs are Smokin’

fresh ingredients that would be easy for anyone to purchase, and drew inspiration from his discoveries.

Shunning commonly smoked items like pork butt or brisket, he came up with two more imaginative options — a fresh-smoked salmon fillet and breast of duck — grilling them over charcoal and wood chips, then creating that “musical combo” effect by building in additional smoky flavors from smoked porter beer, smoky andouille sausage and a spicy oil made with smoky chipotle peppers.

“There are plenty of ways to add that smoked flavor,” he said.

“I never like to add just liquid smoke, but if there’s a woody or smoky-flavored mushroom, for example, I’ll think about how to use it to get that smoky flavor in there.”

Don’t forget the smoking fundamentals, Graham advised: “Don’t overdo it, don’t get too funky with your wood combinations. Stronger is not always better, more is not always better. You want the flavor of your food to speak first, and the smoke accents it. Just that touch of smoke, just a hint of it will give a sense of outside grilling, and it proves that you weren’t cooking over gas.”

Staggs agreed: “Smoke is a very potent flavoring,” he said.

“You can take a neutral or bland piece of protein and really jazz it up with smoke, it’s a distinct, flavorful component to cooking — but be aware that you can definitely overdo it. It’s best to counterbalance the smoke with something fresh, light or refreshing.”

Chef Billy Graham’s Smoked Alaskan Sockeye Salmon with Fruit Salsa

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Chef Billy Graham’s Whole Wheat Pasta Primavera with Chipotle Pesto, Andouille Sausage and Smoked Duck

Chef Robert Staggs’ Smoked Pork Chop with Sweet Potato Puree and Braised Cabbage

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Guest Chef Chef Billy Graham

Smoked Alaskan Sockeye Salmon with Fruit Salsa (SERVES 4) For the Salmon 4 6-ounce fresh sockeye salmon fillets, skin on Sea salt and black pepper Olive oil Wood chips soaked in water 1. Brush fillets with oil and season with salt and pepper.

2. Place salmon flesh side down on grill and let cook, lid closed, for 5 minutes.Turn salmon over and cook, lid closed, to desired doneness, 2 to 5 minutes.

3. Serve immediately, topped with fruit salsa (recipe below).

For the Fruit Salsa /2 cup strawberries, small dice 1 /2 cup pineapple, small dice 1 /2 cup cantaloupe, small dice 1 /2 cup grape tomatoes, small dice 1 tablespoon parsley, chopped 1 jalapeño pepper, seeded and chopped Lemon juice Salt 1

1. Peel zest from lemon in strips, reserve.

2. Combine all ingredients in non-reactive bowl and season with lemon juice to taste.

Cover. Refrigerate one hour before serving.

Whole Wheat Pasta Primavera with Chipotle Pesto, Andouille Sausage and Smoked Duck (SERVES 6) For the Duck Wood chips (hickory, maple, apple, or, best, a mixture) soaked in water 1 /2 pound andouille sausage Chipotle chili oil (recipe below) 1 smoked porter beer (available at Rich O’s in New Albany, or substitute any porter or smoked beer) 4 duck breasts, boneless, skinless 2 tablespoons olive oil 52 Summer 2007 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

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2 cups broccoli florets, blanched and shocked 1 cup red onion cut into strips 2 cups red bell pepper cut into strips 2 cups baby pattypan squash 2 cups baby zucchini 1 /2 cup chipotle pesto (recipe below) 1 cup heavy cream 1 pound whole-wheat penne pasta, cooked Salt and black pepper Parmesan cheese for garnish, grated into long strips 1. Heat grill and add your wood chips.

2. Brush the sausages with chipotle oil, let stand briefly, then simmer sausage in beer until cooked through. Drain, cool, reserve.

3. Grill cooked sausage until browned on all sides; pull off grill and cut into 1/2-inch slices.

4. Brush duck breast with chipotle oil, let stand briefly, then grill, lid closed, until desired degree of doneness.

5. Heat olive oil in large skillet over medium high heat until almost smoking. Add broccoli, onion, red pepper, squash and zucchini.

Sauté until vegetables start to soften.

6. Add pesto and heavy cream. Bring to simmer, and add the pasta. Cook mixture until pasta is hot.

7. Slice the smoked sausage, add it to the mixture, and cook till hot. Plate immediately, topped with sliced duck breasts and Parmesan.

For the Chipotle Pesto 11/2 cups olive oil 4 chipotle peppers, stemmed and seeded 2 cups packed fresh basil leaves 4 garlic cloves, peeled 1 /4 cup pine nuts, toasted 6 ounces smoked Gouda cheese, diced Salt and black pepper 1. Place olive oil and chipotle peppers in small sauté pan and heat over medium heat until oil gets very hot. Remove from heat and let peppers steep in the oil for 30 minutes.

2. Strain the oil and discard the peppers.

Reserve 1/2 cup oil to brush the duck breast and sausage in the recipe above.

3. Place basil, garlic and pine nuts in food processor and process until fine. With processor running; add the remaining one cup of chipotle-flavored oil and the cheese and blend until you have a smooth consistency. Be careful not to overwork the mixture. Leftover chipotle pesto can be refrigerated or frozen.

Guest Chef Chef Robert Staggs

Smoked Pork Chop with Sweet Potato Puree and Braised Cabbage (SERVES 4) For the Pork Chop 4 8-ounce pork chops 2 tablespoons vegetable oil Salt and black pepper Wood chips 1. Heat grill and add your wood chips.

2. Season pork chops with vegetable oil, salt and pepper.

3. Grill both sides with lid closed, turning once, to an internal temperature of 145 degrees.

For the Sweet Potatoes 3 sweet potatoes 1 /4 cup butter 2 teaspoons brown sugar Salt and pepper 1 pinch cinnamon 1 pinch fresh grated nutmeg 1 /4 cup heavy cream 1. Peel sweet potatoes and cut them into medium dice. Cook until fork-tender.

2. Combine all ingredients and blend with a stick or stand blender until smooth.

3. Transfer into piping bag.

For the Cabbage /4 cup diced yellow onions 1 /3 cup diced Granny Smith apples 1 ounce butter 1 /2 cup water 1 tablespoon sugar 2 tablespoons red wine 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar 1 pinch cinnamon 1 teaspoon cloves 1 bay leaf 1 /2 pound cabbage sliced very thin 1 /2 teaspoon salt 1 /2 teaspoon ground black pepper 2 teaspoons arrowroot (preferred) or cornstarch for thickening 1

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1. Sauté onions and apples in butter until onions are translucent and apples are soft, about 5 minutes.

2. Add water, sugar, wine, and vinegar.

3. Add cinnamon, cloves, bay leaf, sliced cabbage, salt and pepper.

4. Cover and simmer for 15 to 20 minutes until cabbage is tender. Check regularly, adding water if needed.

5. If necessary, you can thicken with a slurry of arrowroot or cornstarch in a little cold water.

6. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Filet of Beef with Smoked Tomato Ragout and Smoked Paprika Roasted Potatoes (SERVES 4) For the Filet 4 8-ounce beef filets 2 tablespoons olive oil Salt and black pepper 1. Season steaks with olive oil, salt and pepper, then grill them for 4 to 5 minutes on each side or until 140 degrees for medium.

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For the Ragout 3 pounds plum tomatoes, cored and chopped 11/2 ounces yellow onion, small dice 3 tablespoons garlic, chopped 3 tablespoons olive oil 1 /4 cup red wine 1 ounce basil, chopped Salt and black pepper 1. Smoke tomatoes for 4 to 5 minutes, following the smoking procedure outlined above.

2. Sauté onions and garlic in olive oil until golden brown.

3. Deglaze with red wine and cook uncovered over medium low heat until reduced by half.

4. Add tomatoes and let simmer over medium low heat for 10 minutes, stirring frequently.

5. Add basil and salt and pepper to taste and serve immediately.

For Smoked Paprika Oil (MAKES 16 FLUID OUNCES) 4 ounces paprika

1 tablespoon salt 2 cups olive oil 1. Spread paprika on a baking sheet and smoke it for 8 to 10 minutes.

2. Stir the smoked paprika and all the oil in a sauté pan and steep for 15 minutes over very low heat until the flavors blend.

3. Strain through cheesecloth or coffee filter into a clean container. Reserve can be refrigerated for several weeks.

For the Potatoes 5 fingerling white potatoes 5 baby red potatoes 3 ounces of the smoked paprika oil from previous recipe 1. Cut potatoes in half and toss in oil.

2. Place potatoes on grill, cut side down, just long enough to sear them with attractive dark-brown grill marks.

3. Finish in a 350 degree oven for 25 minutes or until fork-tender.

To serve, place one filet on each plate, flanked by potatoes on each side; serve the sauce over the meat. F&D

Chef Robert Staggs’ Filet of Beef with Smoked Tomato Ragout and Smoked Paprika Roasted Potatoes

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CUISINE STYLES

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ALPHABETICAL INDEX

dining guide

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ALL RESTAURANTS LISTED ALPHABETICALLY, FOLLOWED BY THE PAGE NUMBER OF ITS REVIEW, IT’S CUISINE STYLE, AND THE CORRESPONDING MAP NUMBER(S). [ ] DENOTES UNMAPPED MULTIPLE LOCATIONS. RESTAURANT

PAGE #

AFRICAN 74 ASIAN/CHINESE 74 ASIAN/FILIPINO 76 ASIAN/JAPANESE 76 ASIAN/KOREAN 77 ASIAN/THAI 77 ASIAN/VIETNAMESE 77 BAR & GRILL 73 BARBECUE 72 BISTRO/CONTEMPORARY 61 CAFÉS 6 2 CAFETERIAS 68 CAJUN/CREOLE 79 CARIBBEAN/CUBAN 79 CASUAL DINING 64 COFFEE HOUSE 81 DESSERTS/BAKERY 81 ENTERTAINMENT DINING 68 EUROPEAN/BOSNIAN 77 EUROPEAN/GERMAN 78 EUROPEAN/IRISH 78 EUROPEAN/ITALIAN 78 EUROPEAN/SPANISH 78 FINE DINING 58 HOME STYLE/SOUTHERN 67 INDIAN 79 MEXICAN 80 MICROBREWERIES 74 MIDDLE EASTERN 79 PIZZA 69 SANDWICH/DELI 70 SEAFOOD 63 SOUTHWEST/TEX MEX 81 STEAKHOUSE 64 UPSCALE CASUAL 59 54 Summer 2007 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE

#1 Asian Buffet 75 19th Green Pub & Grill 74 211 Clover Lane 58 610 Magnolia 58 A Nice Restaurant 65 A Taste of China 75 Al Watan 79 Amazing Grace Deli 71 American Pizza 70 Amerigo 78 Amici´ 78 Angelina’s Café 78 Angie’s Café 62 Angilo’s Pizza 70 Angio’s Restaurant 70 Ann’s by the River 69 Annie Café 78 Annie’s Pizza 70 Another Place 71 Anytimes 65 Applebee’s 65 Appleby’s Café & Wine Bar 62 Arirang 77 Arni’s Pizza 70 Aroma Café 62 Artemisia 59 Asian BBQ & Cuisine 78 Asian Buffet 75 Asiatique 59 Atomic Saucer 81 Atrium Café 61 August Moon 75 Austin’s 59 Avalon 59 Azalea 59 Babby’s Steakhouse 64 Backyard Burger 71 Bake’s Barbeque 73 The Bakery 81 Ballyhoo Baja Grill 81 Bamboo House 75 Bank Shot Billiards 71 Barbara Lee’s Kitchen 68 Basa Modern Vietnamese 78 Baxter Station 61 Bazos Mexican Grill 80 Bean Street Café 81 Bearno’s Pizza 70 Beef O’Brady’s 74 Behar Café 78 Bendoya Sushi Bar 77 Bentley’s Sports Grille 74 Big Dave’s Outpost 74 Big Mama’s Soul Kitchen 68 Big Willie’s Pizza Pub 70 Bistro 301 61 Bistro New Albany 62 Blimpie’s Subs 71 BLU Mediterranean Grille 59 Blue Dog Bakery 62 Blue Mountain Wine Bar 62 Blue Mule Sports Café 74 Bluegrass Bistro 62 Bluegrass Brewing Co. 75 Bobby J’s 59 Bonefish Grill 64 Bootleg Barbecue Co. 73 Bosna-Mak 78 Bourbon Bros. BBQ 73 Bourbons Bistro 62 Brandon’s Bar-B-Que 73 Bravo!

59 Breadworks 81 Brendans 78 Bristol Bar & Grille 59 Brix Wine Bar 62 Brownie’s Grille & Bar 74 Browning’s Brewery 75 Bruno’s Pizzeria 70 Buca Di Beppo 78 Buck’s 58 Buckhead Mountain Grill 65 Buffalo Madison Coffee Co. 81 Buffalo Wild Wings 74 Bulldog Café 62 The Butterfly Garden Café 62

MAP #

Asian/Chinese 2 Bar & Grill 16 Fine Dining 3 Fine Dining 1 Casual Dining 14, 16 Asian/Chinese 1 Middle Eastern 4 Sandwich/Deli 2 Pizza 11 European/Italian 5 European/Italian 1 European/Italian 5 Cafés 3 Pizza 13 Pizza 4 Cafeterias 16 Asian/Vietnamese 12 Pizza 1, 13 Sandwich/Deli 1 Casual Dining 7 Casual Dining [9] Cafés 16 Asian/Korean 9 Pizza 14 Cafés 14 Upscale Casual 1 Asian/Korean 16 Asian/Chinese 4, 14, 15 Upscale Casual 2 Coffee House 1 Bistro/Contemporary 5 Asian/Chinese 2 Upscale Casual 7 Upscale Casual 2 Upscale Casual 7 Steakhouse 16 Sandwich/Deli 6 Barbecue 13 Desserts/Bakery 4 Southwest/Tex Mex 2 Asian/Chinese 12 Sandwich/Deli 1 Home Style/Southern 2 Asian/Vietnamese 2 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Mexican 3 Coffee House 14 Pizza [14] Bar & Grill 8, 9, 12, 14 European/Bosnian 12 Asian/Japanese 1 Bar & Grill 1 Bar & Grill 2 Home Style/Southern 1 Pizza 6 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Bistro/Contemporary 14 Sandwich/Deli 2, 4 Upscale Casual 1 Cafés 2 Cafés 1 Bar & Grill 6 Bistro/Contemporary 4 Microbreweries 1, 3 Upscale Casual 1 Seafood 5 Barbecue 11, 12 European/Bosnian 4 Barbecue 2 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Barbecue 6, 8, 9 Upscale Casual 3 Desserts/Bakery 2, 7, 9 European/Irish 3 Upscale Casual 1, 2, 5, 10 Bistro/Contemporary 8 Bar & Grill 5 Microbreweries 1 Pizza 14 European/Italian 6 Fine Dining 1 Casual Dining 4, 12, 16 Coffee House 14, 15 Bar & Grill 2,3, 6, 8, 9, 13 Cafés 12 Cafés 2

RESTAURANT

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE

Café 360 79 The Café at the Antique Mall 62 Café Emilie 59 Café Fraiche 63 Café J 63 Café Lou Lou 62 Café Magnolia 65 Café Metro 58 Café Mimosa 78 Caffe Classico 81 Cajun Kitchen 80 California Pizza Kitchen 65 Camille’s Sidewalk Café 62 Cancun Mexican Restaurant 80 Captain’s Quarters 65 Cardinal Hall of Fame Café 65 Carly Rae’s 65 Carolina Shrimp & Seafood 64 Carolyn’s 68 Carrabba’s Italian Grille 78 Caviar Japanese Rest.

59 Champions Grill 65 Champion’s Sports Rest. 74 Chatter’s Bar & Grill 74 Check’s Café 68 Cheddar Box Café 63 Cheddar’s Casual Café 65 Cheesecake Factory 59 Chez Seneba African 75 Chicago Grill & Subs 71 Chicago Gyro 71 Chick Inn 65 The Chicken House 68 Chicken King 68 Chili’s 66 China 1 75 China Buffet 75 China Castle 75 China City Buffet 75 China Garden 75 China Inn 75 China King 75 China Sea Buffet 75 Chinese Chef 75 Chinese Express 75 Chong Garden 75 Chopsticks 75 Chopsticks House 75 Chung King 75 Ciano’s 71 Cici’s 70 City Café 63 City Wok 75 Clark Boy Bar-B-Que 73 Clarksville Seafood 64 Cleo’s Coffee 81 Clifton’s Pizza 70 Club Grotto 59 Coach Lamp 59 Coco’s Bakery 81 CoCo’s Chocolate Café 81 Coffee Crossing 81 Coffee Pot Café 81 Coffee Treat Café 81 Come Back Inn 78 Connor’s Place 74 Corner Café 60 Cottage Café 68 Cottage Inn 68 Crave Café & Catering 63 Cravings a la Carte 69 Crystal Chinese 75 Culver’s 66 Cumberland Brews 75 Cunningham’s 66 Cyclers Café 63 Danish Express 71 Danny Mac’s Pasta & Pizza 70 DaVinci by Lentini’s 79 Day’s Espresso 81 DBL Shotz 81 De La Torre’s 79 Del Frisco’s 64 Delta Restaurant 74 Derby Café 63 Derby City Espresso 81 Derby Dinner Playhouse 69 Desserts By Helen 81 Devino’s 72 Diamond Pub & Billiards 74 Diefenbach Café 63 Dinner Is Done 68 Dino’s Down to Lunch 72 Ditto’s Grill 62 Dizzy Whizz Drive-In 72 Djuli 78

MAP #

Middle Eastern 2 Cafés 1 Upscale Casual 3 Cafés 7 Cafés 3 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Casual Dining 1 Fine Dining 2 Asian/Vietnamese 2 Coffee House 2 Cajun/Creole 12 Casual Dining 5 Cafés 6 Mexican 4 Casual Dining 10 Casual Dining 12 Casual Dining 1 Seafood 3 Home Style/Southern 13 European/Italian 5 Upscale Casual 1 Casual Dining 16 Bar & Grill 1 Bar & Grill 6 Home Style/Southern 1 Cafés 3, 9 Casual Dining 8, 15 Upscale Casual 3 African 12 Sandwich/Deli 16 Sandwich/Deli 2 Casual Dining 10 Home Style/Southern 14 Home Style/Southern 1 Casual Dining 4, 5, 8, 12 Asian/Chinese 3 Asian/Chinese 15 Asian/Chinese 13 Asian/Chinese 8 Asian/Chinese 12 Asian/Chinese 1 Asian/Chinese 6 Asian/Chinese 9 Asian/Chinese 1 Asian/Chinese 13 Asian/Chinese 13 Asian/Chinese 1 Asian/Chinese 1 Asian/Chinese 1 Sandwich/Deli 9 Pizza 4, 14 Cafés 1, 2 Asian/Chinese 1 Barbecue 13 Seafood 15 Coffee House 14 Pizza 2 Upscale Casual 2 Upscale Casual 1 Desserts/Bakery 12 Desserts/Bakery 2 Coffee House 9, 14 Coffee House 1 Coffee House 1 European/Italian 1, 16 Bar & Grill 14 Upscale Casual 5 Home Style/Southern 9 Home Style/Southern 1 Cafés 2 Cafeterias 1 Asian/Chinese 1 Casual Dining 6 Microbreweries 2 Casual Dining 1, 7 Cafés 2 Sandwich/Deli 3 Pizza 2 European/Italian 5 Coffee House 2 Coffee House 16 European/Spanish 2 Steakhouse 3 Bar & Grill 1 Cafés 12 Coffee House 1 Entertainment Dining 16 Desserts/Bakery 2, 10 Sandwich/Deli 1 Bar & Grill 3 Cafés 15 Home Style/Southern 6 Sandwich/Deli 1 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Sandwich/Deli 1 European/Bosnian 12

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Dmitri’s Deli 72 D’Nalley’s Restaurant 68 Domino’s Pizza 70 Don Pablos 80 Dooley’s Bagels 72 Double Dragon 75 Double Dragon II 76 Double Dragon 8 76 Double Dragon 9 76 Double Dragon Buffet 76 Dragon Garden 76 Dutch’s Tavern 74 Dynasty Buffet 76 Eastern House 76 Eggroll Machine 76 El Caporal 80 El Mundo 80 El Nopal 80 El Nopalito 80 El Paso 80 El Rey Mexican 80 El Rodeo Mexican 80 El Tarasco 80 El Toro Resaurante Mexicano 80 Emperor of China 76 Empress of China 76 The English Grill 58 Equus 58 Erika’s German Rest.

78 Ermin’s Bakery & Café 63 Ernesto’s 80 Euro Market 72 Eva Mae’s Creekside 66 Expressions of You 81 Famous Dave’s Bar-B-Que 73 Fast Break Pizza 70 Fat Jimmy’s 70 Federal Hill 63 Feed Bag Deli 72 Ferd Grisanti 79 Fiesta Time Mexican Grill 80 Fifth Quarter 64 Finley’s BBQ 73 Fire Fresh Bar B Q 73 First Wok 76 The Fish House 64 The Fishery 64 The Fishery Station 64 Flabby’s Schnitzelburg 74 Flanigans Ale House 74 Fork in the Road 69 Fountain Room 66 Four King’s Café 74 Fox & Hound 74 Frank’s Steak House 64 Frascelli’s N.Y. Deli 72 Fresco Southwest Grill & Pizza 70 Frolio’s Pizza 70 Frontier Diner 69 Fuji Japanese Steakhouse 77 Gasthaus 78 Gavi’s Restaurant 66 Genny’s Diner 69 Germantown Café 63 Gerstle’s Place 75 Golden Buddha 76 Golden Corral 69 Golden Palace 76 Golden Star Chinese 76 Golden Wall 76 Goose Creek Diner 69 Granville Inn 75 Grape Leaf 79 Grapevine Pantry 63 Great American Grill 75 Great Wall 76 Great Wok 76 Hall’s Cafeteria 69 Happy Dragon 76 Hard Rock Café 62 Havana Rumba 80 Hazelwood Restaurant 69 Heine Brothers Coffee 81 Heitzman Bakery & Deli 81 Hero’s New York Pizza Pub 70 Highland Coffee Co. 81 Hill Street Fish Fry 64 Hippo Wings 66 Hitching Post Inn 75 Hobknobb Roasting Co. 81 Hometown Buffet 69 Hometown Pizza 70 Honeybaked Café 72 Hong Kong Chinese 76 Hong Kong Fast Food 76 Hoops Grill and Sports Bar 75

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Sandwich/Deli 1 Home Style/Southern 1 Pizza [20] Mexican 15 Sandwich/Deli 3, 5, 7, 9, 14 Asian/Chinese 2,3 Asian/Chinese 5, 8, 11, 12 Asian/Chinese 1 Asian/Chinese 6 Asian/Chinese 5 Asian/Chinese 2 Bar & Grill 3 Asian/Chinese 7 Asian/Chinese 13 Asian/Chinese 2 Mexican 4,6,12,15 Mexican 2 Mexican 6, 8, 9, 12 Mexican 2, 4, 11 Mexican 16 Mexican 4 Mexican 13 Mexican 3, 5, 7, 12 Mexican 6 Asian/Chinese 7 Asian/Chinese 4 Fine Dining 1 Fine Dining 3 European/German 6 Cafés 1, 10, 14 Mexican 3, 5, 6 Sandwich/Deli 8 Casual Dining 7 Coffee House 7 Barbecue 6, 15 Pizza 8 Pizza 1, 2, 5, 9 Cafés 14 Sandwich/Deli 3 European/Italian 6 Mexican 8 Steakhouse 12 Barbecue 1 Barbecue 1, 4, 5, 9, 11, 13 Asian/Chinese 13 Seafood 2 Seafood 3 Seafood 11 Bar & Grill 1 Bar & Grill 2 Home Style/Southern 13 Casual Dining 1 Bar & Grill 4 Bar & Grill 3 Steakhouse 5, 16 Sandwich/Deli 7 Pizza 1 Pizza 12 Home Style/Southern 13 Asian/Japanese 8 European/German 7 Casual Dining 1 Home Style/Southern 2 Cafés 1 Bar & Grill 3 Asian/Chinese 12 Home Style/Southern 4,12,15 Asian/Chinese 13 Asian/Chinese 13 Asian/Chinese 12 Home Style/Southern 8 Bar & Grill 1 Middle Eastern 2 Cafés 9 Bar & Grill 12 Asian/Chinese 2 Asian/Chinese 1 Cafeterias 2 Asian/Chinese 1 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Caribbean/Cuban 3 Home Style/Southern 13 Coffee House 2, 3 Desserts/Bakery 5 Pizza 6 Coffee House 1, 2 Seafood 1 Casual Dining 1 Bar & Grill 11 Coffee House 14 Home Style/South. 6,8,13,15 Pizza 7, 9, 13 Sandwich/Deli 3, 11, 15 Asian/Chinese 14 Asian/Chinese 12 Bar & Grill 12

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- RUTH

Louisville 6100 Dutchman’s Lane Kaden Tower, 16th Floor (502) 479-0026 Group Private Dining Available Make Your Reservation Online at www.RuthsChris.com

Charming Ambiance

Over 80 Wines By The Glass — RESERVATIONS ACCEPTED —

Exceptional Cuisine

1765 Mellwood Ave. at the corner of Brownsboro Rd.

Open Nightly at 5:00 pm

897-0070

THEATER MENU 5:00 pm – 6:30 pm

www.landnwinebarandbistro.com www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Summer 2007 55

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Hooters 66 Hot Dog Heaven 72 Howl at the Moon 69 Hunan Wok 76 I Ching Asian Café 76 Ichiban Samurai 77 IHOP 66 Indi’s Restaurant 69 India Palace 79 Intermezzo American Café 60 The Irish Rover 78 Iroquois Pizza 70 Islamorada Fish Co. 64 It’s A Grind Coffee House 81 J. Alexander’s 60 J. Graham’s Café 63 J. Gumbo’s 80 J. Harrods 60 Jack Fry’s 60 Jack’s Lounge 62 Jade Garden Buffet 76 Jade Palace 76 Jake’s & Mr. G’s 75 Jane’s Cafeteria 69 Janie’s Café 69 Jarfi’s Bistro 60 Jarfi’s at Mellwood 66 Jasmine 76 Jason’s Deli 72 Java Brewing Co. 81 Jay’s Cafeteria 69 Jazz Factory 62 Jeff Ruby’s Steakhouse 64 Jennica’s Café & Wine Bar 63 Jersey Mike’s Subs 72 Jersey’s Café 75 Jerusalem Mediterranean Café 79 Jessie’s Restaurant 69 Jimbo’s BBQ 74 Jimmy and Richie’s 75 Jimmy John’s Sub Shop 72 Jimmy’s on the River 75 Jockamo’s Pizza Pub 70 Joe Huber Restaurant 69 Joe Muggs 81 Joe’s Crab Shack 64 Joe’s O.K. Bayou 80 Joe’s Older Than Dirt 66 John E’s 60 JoJo’s Fish Market 64 Jolly Rogers 66 JP’s Pub & Grub 75 Juanita’s Burger Boy 72 Jucy’s Smokehouse 74 Juke Box 66 Jumbo Buffet 76 Just Fresh Bakery & Café 72 Kaelin’s Restaurant 66 Kansai Japanese Rest.

77 Karem’s Grill & Pub 66 Karma Café 66 Kashmir Indian 79 Kayrouz Café 63 Kern’s Korner 66 Kimi’s Asian Bistro 62 King Benny’s Pizza 70 King Buffet 76 King Wok 76 Kings Fast Food 69 King’s Fried Chicken 69 Kingfish 64 Kobe Japanese Steak 77 Koreana II 78 KT’s 60 KY Taco 80 L&N Wine Bar and Bistro 62 La Bamba 80 La Bodega 79 La Gallo Rosso Bistro 1325 79 La Herradura 80 La Monarca 80 La Perla del Pacifico 80 La Rosita Taqueria 80 La Tapatia 80 Le Relais 58 Lee’s Korean 78 Legend’s 66 Lemongrass Café 78 Lentini’s 79 Liang’s Café 76 The Lighthouse 75 Lilly’s 58 Limestone 58 Ling Ling 76 Little Caesar’s Pizza 70 Little Chef 72

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Casual Dining 3,12,13,15,16 Sandwich/Deli 7 Entertainment Dining 1 Asian/Chinese 11 Asian/Chinese 3 Asian/Japanese 6 Casual Dining 15 Home Style/Southern 1,3,12 Indian 5 Upscale Casual 1 European/Irish 2, 7 Pizza 13 Seafood 15 Coffee House 8 Upscale Casual 3 Cafés 1 Cajun/Creole 1, 2,5, 6,12,13 Upscale Casual 3 Upscale Casual 2 Bistro/Contemporary 3 Asian/Chinese 2 Asian/Chinese 7 Bar & Grill 5 Cafeterias 4 Cafeterias 14 Upscale Casual 1 Casual Dining 2 Asian/Chinese 9 Sandwich/Deli 5 Coffee House 1, 2, 9, 10 Cafeterias 1 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Steakhouse 1 Cafés 1 Sandwich/Deli 5, 6, 8 Bar & Grill 15 Middle Eastern 1 Home Style/Southern 13 Barbecue 12 Bar & Grill 5 Sandwich/Deli 1, 3 Bar & Grill 16 Pizza 1 Entertainment Dining 14 Coffee House 3, 8 Seafood 1 Cajun/Creole 6, 14 Casual Dining 5 Upscale Casual 4 Seafood 4 Casual Dining 16 Bar & Grill 11 Sandwich/Deli 1 Barbecue 5 Casual Dining 14 Asian/Chinese 6 Sandwich/Deli 2 Casual Dining 2 Asian/Japanese 15 Casual Dining 8 Casual Dining 2 Indian 2 Cafés 3 Casual Dining 2 Asian/Japanese 6 Pizza 12 Asian/Chinese 6 Asian/Chinese 3 Home Style/Southern 13 Home Style/Southern 1 Seafood 6, 7, 16 Asian/Japanese 16 Asian/Korean 12 Upscale Casual 2 Mexican 11 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Mexican 2 European/Spanish 2 European/Italian 2 Mexican 15 Mexican 11 Mexican 8 Mexican 14 Mexican 2 Fine Dining 4 Asian/Korean 12 Casual Dining 14 Asian/Vietnamese 2, 3, 9 European/Italian 2 Asian/Chinese 8 Bar & Grill 16 Fine Dining 2 Fine Dining 5 Asian/Chinese 5 Pizza 6, 8, 11, 12 Sandwich/Deli 14

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Liu’s Garden Logan’s Roadhouse Lolitas Tacos Inc. Longhorn Steakhouse Longino’s Lonnie’s Taste Chicago Los Aztecas Los Chubascos Los Indios Mexicano Lotsa Pasta Louisville Pizza Co. Lucky House Buffet Lucky Strike Lanes / Felt Luigi’s Lunch Today Lynn’s Paradise Café Ma Zerellas Maggie’s Sports Bar & Grille Mai’s Thai Restaurant Maido Essential Japanese Main Eatery Main Menu Maker’s Mark Lounge Manchu Wok Manhattan Grill Marcus’ Ribs By The Slab Mark’s Feed Store Market on Market Marrakech Martini Italian Bistro Masterson’s Max & Erma’s Mayan Café Mazzoni’s Oyster Café McAlister’s Deli Melillo’s The Melting Pot Meridian Café Mexican Fiesta Mexico Tipico Michael Murphy’s Mike Linnig’s Mimi’s Café Mitchell’s Fish Market Moe’s Southwest Grill Mojito Tapas Restaurant Molly Malone’s The Monkey Wrench Morris Deli & Catering Morton’s of Chicago Mr. Gattis Mr. Lou’s Mr. Z’s Kitchen My Favorite Muffin My Old KY Dinner Train Nancy’s Bagel Grounds Napa River Grill Neil’s Place Nero’s New China New Direction Bar & Grill Nios Nord’s Brown Bag Deli Norma Jean’s Trackside North End Café NV Tavern O’Charley’s O’Dolly’s O’Shea’s Irish Pub The Oakroom Old Chicago Pasta & Pizza Old Louisville Coffee House Old Spaghetti Factory Old Stone Inn Ole Hickory Pit BBQ The Olive Garden Olive’s on Fourth Ollie’s Trolley Omar’s Gyro On the Border Onion Rest.Tea House Orders Up Café & Deli Oriental House Oriental Star Original Impellizzeri’s Osaka Sushi Bar Otto’s Café Outback Steakhouse P. F. Chang’s China Bistro Pa Pa Murphy’s Pizza Palermo Viejo Panda Chinese Panera Bread Co. Papa Johns Pizza Park Place Restaurant Passtime Fish House

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76 Asian/Chinese 9 64 Steakhouse 3, 13, 15 80 Mexican 12 64 Steakhouse 6, 8, 15 69 Home Style/Southern 13 72 Sandwich/Deli 3 80 Mexican 1, 6, 7, 10 80 Mexican 6 80 Mexican 14 72 Sandwich/Deli 3 70 Pizza 6 76 Asian/Chinese 4 69 Entertainment Dining 1 79 European/Italian 1 72 Sandwich/Deli 16 66 Casual Dining 2 70 Pizza 15 75 Bar & Grill 6 78 Asian/Thai 16 77 Asian/Japanese 2 72 Sandwich/Deli 1 66 Casual Dining 14 60 Upscale Casual 1 76 Asian/Chinese 5 66 Casual Dining 1 74 Barbecue 1 74 Barbecue 2, 9, 13, 15 72 Sandwich/Deli 1 79 Middle Eastern 2 79 European/Italian 8 67 Casual Dining 1 67 Casual Dining 6, 8 80 Mexican 1 64 Seafood 4 72 Sandwich/Deli 5, 6, 7, 9, 11,15 79 European/Italian 1 60 Upscale Casual 6 63 Cafés 3 80 Mexican 4, 11 80 Mexican 9, 13 75 Bar & Grill 1 64 Seafood 13 67 Casual Dining 5 64 Seafood 8 81 Southwest/Tex Mex 3, 6, 9, 15 79 European/Spanish 7 78 European/Irish 2 67 Casual Dining 2 72 Sandwich/Deli 2 64 Steakhouse 1 70 Pizza 1, 4, 5, 12, 13 69 Home Style/Southern 13 63 Cafés 1 81 Desserts/Bakery 4, 5 70 Entertainment Dining 12 72 Sandwich/Deli 2 60 Upscale Casual 3 67 Casual Dining 14 60 Upscale Casual 14 76 Asian/Chinese 9 75 Bar & Grill 8 62 Bistro/Contemporary 2 72 Sandwich/Deli 1 67 Casual Dining 7 63 Cafés 2 75 Bar & Grill 2 67 Casual Dining 3,6,8,12,13,15 69 Home Style/Southern 13 78 European/Irish 2 58 Fine Dining 1 67 Casual Dining 6 81 Coffee House 1 79 European/Italian 1 60 Upscale Casual 6 74 Barbecue 11 79 European/Italian 6, 8, 15 69 Home Style/Southern 1 72 Sandwich/Deli 1 79 Middle Eastern 2 81 Southwest/Tex Mex 8 76 Asian/Chinese 14 73 Sandwich/Deli 9 76 Asian/Chinese 3 76 Asian/Chinese 12 71 Pizza 2 77 Asian/Japanese 2 67 Casual Dining 1 64 Steakhouse 3, 8, 11, 12, 15 61 Upscale Casual 5 71 Pizza 3, 8, 9, 11, 12, 15 79 European/Spanish 2 76 Asian/Chinese 10 73 Sandwich/Deli3, 6, 8, 12, 15 71 Pizza [30] 58 Fine Dining 1 64 Seafood 6

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Pat’s Steak House 64 The Patron 61 Paul’s Fruit Market 73 Penn Station 73 Pepper Shaker Bar-B-Q 74 Peppers Bar and Grill 67 Perkfection 81 Pesto’s Italian 79 Pho Binh Minh 78 Piccadilly Cafeteria 69 Picnicaters BBQ 74 Pig and a Peppermint 63 Pig City BBQ 74 Pink Door Noodles & Tea Lounge 78 Pit Stop Bar-B-Que 74 Pita Delights 79 Pizza By The Guy 71 Pizza Hut 71 Pizza King 71 Pizza Place 71 Pizzeria Uno 71 Plehn’s Bakery 81 Ponderosa Steakhouse 64 Porcini 79 Portico 58 Prado’s Pizza 71 Primo 79 Proof On Main 58 Prospect Fish Market 64 Pub Louisville 67 Puccini’s Smiling Teeth 79 Puerto Vallarta 80 Qdoba Mexican Grill 80 Queen of Sheba 75 Queue Café 63 Quick Wok 76 Quizno’s Subs 73 Rafferty’s of Louisville 67 Ramsi’s Café 62 Ranch House 67 Raw Sushi Lounge 77 Ray Parrella’s 79 Red Robin Gourmet Burgers 67 Red Star Tavern 61 Red Sun Chinese 76 Rich O’s Public House 75 Rick’s Ferrari Grille 61 Rite Way Bar-B-Cue House 74 Rivue 61 Rockwall Bistro 61 Rocky’s Italian Grill 79 Romano’s Macaroni Grill 79 Roosters 67 Rosticeria Luna 81 Royal Garden 77 Rubbie’s Bar-B-Que 74 Ruben’s Mexican Restaurant 81 Ruby Tuesday 67 The Rudyard Kipling 67 Rumors Raw Oyster Bar 64 Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse 64 Ryan’s Steakhouse 64 Saffron’s 79 Safier Mediterranean Deli 79 Sahara Café 80 Saint’s 75 Sakura Blue 77 Sala Thai 78 Salsarita’s Fresh Cantina 81 Sam’s Food & Spirits 67 Santa Fe Grill 81 Sapporo Japanese Grill 77 Sari Sari Exotic Filipino Cuisine 77 Savino’s Italian Food 79 Schlotzsky’s Deli 73 Scotty’s Ribs 74 Senor Iguana’s 81 Sesame Chinese 77 Seviche A Latin Restaurant 58 Shady Lane Café 73 Shah’s Mongolian Grill 77 Shalimar Indian 79 Shane’s 67 Shane’s Rib Shack 74 Shanghai Restaurant 77 Shenanigan’s Irish Grille 78 Shiraz Mediterranean Grill 80 Shogun 77 Shoney’s 67 Sichuan Garden 77 Simply Thai 78 Sister Bean’s 81 Skyline Chili 68 Slice of New York 71 Smokey Bones BBQ 74 Snappy Tomato 71

MAP #

Steakhouse 2 Upscale Casual 3 Sandwich/Deli 3, 4, 7, 9 Sandwich/Deli [14] Barbecue 12 Casual Dining 1 Coffee House 16 European/Italian 1 Asian/Vietnamese 12 Cafeterias 5, 6 Barbecue 1 Cafés 10 Barbecue 9 Asian/Korean 2 Barbecue 1 Middle Eastern 1 Pizza 5 Pizza [15] Pizza 14, 16 Pizza 4 Pizza 11 Desserts/Bakery 3 Steakhouse 7 European/Italian 2 Fine Dining 14 Pizza 9 European/Italian 1 Fine Dining 1 Seafood 10 Casual Dining 1 European/Italian 3 Mexican 14, 16 Mexican 2, 3, 5, 6, 8, 15 African 4 Cafés 6 Asian/Chinese 1 Sandwich/Deli [17] Casual Dining 3, 8 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Casual Dining 14 Asian/Japanese 1 European/Italian 2 Casual Dining 8 Upscale Casual 1 Asian/Chinese 4 Microbreweries 14 Upscale Casual 3 Barbecue 1 Upscale Casual 1 Upscale Casual 14 European/Italian 8, 16 European/Italian 5 Casual Dining 12 Mexican 12 Asian/Chinese 11, 12, 13 Barbecue 12 Mexican 15 Casual Dining 3, 6, 15 Casual Dining 1 Seafood 9 Steakhouse 3 Steakhouse 11, 13, 15 Middle Eastern 1 Middle Eastern 1 Middle Eastern 3 Bar & Grill 3 Asian/Japanese 3 Asian/Thai 6 Southwest/Tex Mex 3 Casual Dining 14 Mexican 12 Asian/Japanese 2, 9 Asian/Filipino 2 European/Italian 13 Sandwich/Deli 8, 9 Barbecue 9 Mexican 15 Asian/Chinese 5 Fine Dining 2 Sandwich/Deli 7 Asian/Chinese 6 Indian 6 Casual Dining 16 Barbecue 7 Asian/Chinese 1 European/Irish 2 Coffee House 2 Asian/Japanese 6, 8 Casual Dining 2, 6, 12 Asian/Chinese 6 Asian/Thai 3 Coffee House 13 Casual Dining 1, 2, 3, 6, 13 Pizza 6 Barbecue 6 Pizza [7]

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Sol Aztecas 81 Mexican 2 Soupy’s 73 Sandwich/Deli 4, 6 , 8 , 1 3 Spaghetti Shop 79 European/Italian 11, 14 Speakeasy 61 Upscale Casual 14 Spinelli’s Pizzeria 71 Pizza 2 Sports Page Grill 75 Bar & Grill 6 Sportstime Pizza 71 Pizza 14 Sportsville Grill & Bar 68 Casual Dining 12 Stan’s Fish Sandwich 64 Seafood 3 Star Cruises 70 Entertainment Dining 16 Starbucks Coffee 81 Coffee House [27] Starving Artist Café 73 Sandwich/Deli 5 Steak N Shake 68 Casual Dining 4,6,8,12,13,15 Steinert’s Grill & Pub 75 Bar & Grill 14 Stevens & Stevens 73 Sandwich/Deli 2 Steve-O’s Italian Kitchen 79 European/Italian 7 Stoney River 64 Steakhouse 8 Stratto’s 79 European/Italian 15 Strawberry Patch Deli 73 Sandwich/Deli 9 Stumler Rest. & Orchard 70 Entertainment Dining 14 Sub Station II 73 Sandwich/Deli 12 Sully’s Saloon 75 Bar & Grill 1 Sunergos Coffee & Roastery 81 Coffee House 1 Sweet ‘N’ Savory Café 63 Cafés 2 Sweet Peas Southern 62 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Sweet Surrender 63 Cafés 2 The Sweet Tooth 81 Desserts/Bakery 3 Taco Tico 81 Mexican 13 Tacqueria La Mexicana 81 Mexican 12 Tailgaters Sports Bar 75 Bar & Grill 12 Taste of Jamaica 80 Carribian/Cuban 2 Tasty Buffet 77 Asian/Chinese 8 Tequila Mexican Rest.

81 Mexican 12 Texas Roadhouse 64 Steakhouse 2, 12, 13, 15 TGI Friday’s 68 Casual Dining 1, 6, 7 Thai Café 78 Asian/Thai 7 Thai Siam 78 Asian/Thai 4 Thai Smile 5 78 Asian/Thai 12 Thai Taste 78 Asian/Thai 2 The Back Door 75 Bar & Grill 2 The Bodega 73 Sandwich/Deli 1 The Gaslight Inn 68 Casual Dining 6 Theater Square Deli 73 Sandwich/Deli 1 Third and Main Café 63 Cafés 1 Third Avenue Café 63 Cafés 1 Thyme Café 63 Cafés 1 Toast on Market 68 Casual Dining 1 Tokyo Japanese 77 Asian/Japanese 7 Toll Bridge Inn 69 Home Style/Southern 14 Tologono 62 Bistro/Contemporary 3 Tommy Lancaster 68 Casual Dining 14 Tony Boombozz 71 Pizza 2, 3, 8 Tony Impellizzeri’s Italian 71 Pizza 5 Tony Roma’s 74 Barbecue 5 Treet’s Bakery Café 63 Cafés 16 Trellis Restaurant 68 Casual Dining 1 Tucker’s 68 Casual Dining 14 Tumbleweed 81 Southwest/Tex Mex 1,2,4, 6,8,12,13,14,15,16 Twice-Told Café 68 Casual Dining 7 Twig & Leaf Restaurant 68 Casual Dining 2 Uptown Café 61 Upscale Casual 2 Vic’s Café 75 Bar & Grill 1 Vietnam Kitchen 78 Asian/Vietnamese 12 The Villa Buffet 68 Casual Dining 14 Vince Staten’s BBQ 74 Barbecue 10 Vincenzo’s 59 Fine Dining 1 Vito’s Pizzeria 71 Pizza 12 Volare 79 European/Italian 2 W.W. Cousin’s 73 Sandwich/Deli 3 Wagner’s Pharmacy 69 Home Style/Southern 12 Wall Street Deli 73 Sandwich/Deli 1 Webb’s Market 69 Home Style/Southern 1 Westport General Store 68 Casual Dining 7 Whitney’s Diner 64 Cafés 11 Wicks Pizza 71 Pizza 2, 8, 9, 13 Wild Eggs 64 Cafés 3 Wild Oats Market 73 Cafés 3 Windy City Pizzeria 71 Pizza 1 The Wing Zone 68 Casual Dining 12 Wings N Things 75 Bar & Grill 8 Wings To Go 71 Pizza 14 Winston’s 59 Fine Dining 4 Wok Express 77 Asian/Chinese 1 Wonton Express 77 Asian/Chinese 4 Woodford Reserve Grille 75 Bar & Grill 12 Woody’s Pub & Grill 75 Bar & Grill 8 Xavier’s 68 Casual Dining 1 Yaching’s East West Cuisine 61 Upscale Casual 1 Yang Kee Noodle 77 Asian/Chinese 5 Yen Ching 77 Asian/Chinese 6 You-Carryout-A 77 Asian/Chinese 14, 15, 16 Yummy Chinese 77 Asian/Chinese 12 Za’s Pizza 71 Pizza 2 ZaZoo’s 75 Bar & Grill 3 Zen Garden 78 Asian/Vietnamese 2 Z’s Oyster Bar 59 Fine Dining 5 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Summer 2007 57

GUIDE KEY

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$ = Average Entrée under $8 $$ = Average Entrée $9–$14 $$$ = Average Entrée $15–$20 $$$$ = Average Entrée $21 & up

2 11 CL OVER LANE RES TAURANT 2 11 Clo ver Ln., 896-9570. Owner and manager Andy Smith continues to burnish the upscale atmosphere and creative cuisine of this s tylish spot in St. Matthews. It c onsistently r anks among the city’ s top tables. $$$$ p f 610 MAGNOLIA 610 Magnolia A ve., 636-0783. Chef Edward L ee’s dis tinctive, eclectic tak e on cr eative international cookery places his personal signatur e on e very dish at this elegantly c omfortable Old Louisville restaurant. For more than a quart er of a century it has r emained one of the city’ s fines t places to dine. $$$$ p f BUCK’S 42 5 W . Ormsb y A ve., 6 37-52 84. E clectic Victorian with t ongue-slightly-in-cheek, pleasant and not o verstated, this fine dining r oom in the Mayflower Apartments c ombines a w elcoming attitude with high-quality f are and atmospher e that’s frankly stunning. $$$ p e CAFÉ METRO 1700 Bar dstown Rd., 458-4830 . A local tr adition that helped es tablish Bar dstown Road as one of the city’ s “r estaurant r ows” a generation ago , Café Metr o r emains an upscale landmark and c ontinues t o please Metr o’s lo yal fans. $$$ p ENGLISH GRILL 335 W . Br oadway (T he Br own Hotel), 583-1234. This elegant oak-paneled dining room is the same do wntown landmark that our

58 Summer 2007 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

RED = Advertiser

p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

grandparents enjo yed, but Chef Laur ent Gér oli brings the gr and old hot el dining r oom int o the 2 1st c entury with sophis ticated int ernational cuisine. $$$$ p EQUUS 122 Sears Ave., 897-9721. Veteran Chef Dean Corbett has quietly built one of the city’ s mos t honored r estaurants in this simple whit e-brick building in St. Matthe ws, Quietly elegant surroundings, splendid servic e and firs t-rate “progressive American cuisine” have won applause from publications like Southern Living. $$$$ p LE RELAIS 2 817 T aylorsville Rd. (Bo wman Field), 451-9020. Another longstanding contender for top rank in L ouisville’s r estaurant r ace, this art dec o spot makes s tylish use of a his toric 19 2 0s airport building to present elegant modern French cuisine from Chef Daniel Stage. $$$$ p f e LILLY’S 1147 Bar dstown Rd., 451-044 7. As a r epeat invitee t o Manhattan’ s James Bear d House , Chef Kathy Cary shar es her K entucky-accented cooking skills with the r est of the nation. Lilly’ s c ombines sophisticated s tyle and Cary’ s cr eative c ookery t o keep this landmark r estaurant one of L ouisville’s dining favorites. $$$$ p e LIMESTONE 10001 Forest Green Blvd., 426-7477. To succeed in the r estaurant busines s, k eep doing what y ou do bes t. Chefs Jim Gerhar dt and Michael Cunha ha ve followed this simple f ormula with c onsiderable suc cess at Limes tone, tr ansporting the c oncept that br ought them international culinary k udos at the Seelbach’ s

ALL RESTAURANTS ARE LOCATED IN LOUISVILLE (unless noted otherwise) All phone numbers are local calls. When out of the area, use area code 502 for all listings except Indiana, use 812.

Oakroom with good eff ect in these modern quarters in the East End. $$$ p THE OAKROOM 500 S. Fourth St. (Seelbach Hotel), 585-32 00. Ex ecutive Chef T odd Richar ds has been cutting a swath, with recent appearances at James Bear d House and Ir on Chef America.

Richards and right-hand-man Chef Duane Nutt er have made the onc e-staid old Oakr oom one of the city’s most exciting places to dine. $$$$ p PARK PLACE RESTAURANT 401 E. Main St. (Slugger Field), 515-017 2 . Chef Ja y Denham tak es o ver the chef ’s r ole fr om Anoosh Shariat without missing a beat, and this signatur e restaurant in Louisville Slugger Field combines as a source of culinary creativity and comfort. $$$$ p f e PORTICO Caesars Indiana Casino, Elizabeth, IN, 888766-2648. High-end luxury and s tyle bring a tas te of Las V egas t o Metr o L ouisville in this pric ey, white-tablecloth eatery located on the gr ounds of Caesars Indiana. You don’t have to be a high r oller to enjoy its luxury fare and service. $$$$ p PROOF ON MAIN 702 W. Main St., 2 17 -6360. T his stylish spot in the posh 2 1C Museum Hot el at Seventh & Main has earned a firm plac e in the t op tier of local eat eries. Chef Michael P aley pr eside over a modern American bill of f are with dis tinct Tuscan influences. $$$ p SEVICHE A LA TIN RES TAURANT 1538 Bar dstown Rd., 4 73-8560. Chef Anthon y Lamas has been winning national pr aise f or his cr eative c ookery, frequently appearing in national f ood media and

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making a r egular tr ek t o James Bear d House in NYC. Se viche, as the name implies, specializ es in the Latino seaf ood dish “ cooked” in tart citrus juices. $$$$ p f VINCENZO’S 150 S. Fifth St., 580- 1350. Known f or its suave professional service, high-end Northern Italian fare and many trademark dishes finished at tableside, V incenzo’s c ontinues t o hold its o wn against growing downtown competition. $$$$ p WINSTON’S RES TAURANT 3101 Bar dstown Rd., (Sullivan Univ ersity Campus ), 456-0980 .

Renovated quarters kick W inston’s up a not ch as culinary arts s tudents at Sulliv an Univ ersity s taff this fine-dining r estaurant on the campus, under the guiding hand of Chef John Castro. Open Fri. Sun. Only. Reservations suggested. $$$$ p Z’S O YSTER BAR & S TEAKHOUSE 101 Whittingt on Pkwy., 429-8000. This exciting spot brings a level of fine dining to the suburbs that makes it stand out in the chain-rich en virons outside the W atterson.

Splendid steaks, extraordinary seafood, fine service and clubby ambience give Z’s the tools to dominate in the steakhouse competition. $$$$ p

ARTEMISIA 62 0 E. Mark et St., 583-4 177. As the bustling arts sc ene in this eas t-of-downtown blossoms, Art emisia ev olves with it. A f avorite dinner venue in a gallery setting, Art emisia offers fare t o please both v egetarians and omniv ores, plus an attr active alfr esco dining option in its enclosed courtyard. $$$ p f e ASIATIQUE 1767 Bardstown Rd., 451-2749. Chef Peng Looi has w on diners’ r aves and man y culinary awards during Asiatique’ s long local t enure. His innovative Asian-fusion cuisine has w on him invitations to New York City’s James Bear d house and many local accolades. $$$ p f

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AUSTIN’S 4950 US 42, 423-1990. Big, crowded and bistro-style, with heavy emphasis on the bar, this suburban w atering hole taps the same v ein as the national fr anchise boo ze ’n’ beef genr e, and does so w ell, off ering satisfying dining at a f air price. $$ p AVALON 1314 Bardstown Rd., 454-5336. This stylish spot on Bar dstown R oad off ers a fr esh and creative bill of f are that pr esents American and international cuisine with a dis tinct Southern accent. Extra points for the popular outdoor patio that’s open for a good part of the y ear. $$$ p f AZALEA 3612 Br ownsboro Rd., 895-54 93. Another of the city’ s longtime f avorites, Azalea delights with cr eative American and fusion-s tyle f are whether y ou dine in or enjo y the open air of its shady, brick-walled patio. $$$ p f BLU IT ALIAN MEDITERRANEAN GRILLE 2 80 W .

Jefferson St. (L ouisville Marriott), 62 7-5045. BL U offers upscale Italian Medit erranean cuisine in striking surr oundings highlight ed b y Me xican limestone and Italian marble . F or those seeking a relaxing libation and a quick er snack, the Bar at BLU offers a more casual alternative. $$$ p BOBBY J’S 252 E. Mark et St., 566- 3061. The upscale bistro formerly known as Oscar Brown's and then the short-lived La Rouge takes a third shot at success, this time with longtime L ouisville r estaurateur R obert "Bobby J ." Johnson joining La R ouge partner Rick Longino to make it happen. $$ p e BRAVO! 2 06 Bullitt Ln. ( Oxmoor C enter), 32 6-04 91.

Management describes the Ohio-based Br avo! chain as “ a fun, whit e-tablecloth casual eat ery … positioned betw een the fine-dining and casual chains.” A R oman-ruin setting houses abundant Italian-American style fare. We particularly enjo yed appetizers and first-rate grilled meats. $$ p f BRISTOL BAR & GRILLE 132 1 Bardstown Rd., 4561702, 300 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 426-0627, 614 W.

Main St., 582 - 1995, 6051 T imber Ridge Dr ., 2 9 2 2585, 2035 S. Third St., 634-2723. The Bristol has been a s tar on L ouisville’s bis tro sc ene sinc e it helped kick off the Bar dstown R oad r estaurant renaissance 30 years ago this year. Old standards like the gr een-chile w on t ons and the Bris tol Burger are always reliable, and the wine program is exceptional. $$ p f CAFÉ EMILIE 3939 Shelb yville Rd., 7 19-9717. T his French-accented Eas t End eat ery, locat ed in the Burdorf’s Furnitur e s tore in St. Matthews, is w ell worth a visit. Off ering casual f are at lunch and more elegant dining in the e vening. $$ p f CAVIAR J APANESE RES TAURANT 416 W .

Muhammad Ali Blv d., 62 5- 3090. Samm y Sa, the genial host of the Fuji restaurants in the East End, adds a do wntown pr esence with this s tylish Japanese eatery next door to the Seelbach Hotel.

Eat at the sushi bar , choose a c omfortable table or r eserve the tr aditional Japanese-s tyle Tatami Room for your group. $$$ p CHEESECAKE FACTORY 5000 Shelbyville Rd., 8973933. “Cheesecak e” is its name , and this glitzy shopping-mall eatery offers a wide variety of rich, calorific choic es t o eat in or tak e out. It ’s mor e than just cheesecake, though, with a wide-ranging menu of California, Southwestern and Pacific Rim fare plus full bar servic e. $$ p CLUB GROTTO 2116 Bardstown Rd., 459-5275. Club Grotto’s s tylish and r omantically dim en virons add up to a comfortable, familiar Highlands spot that’s worth making a special effort to remember. $$$ p COACH LAMP RESTAURANT 751 Vine St., 583-9165.

This urban neighborhood tavern serves “pub grub” for lunch, but C oach Lamp turns int o a serious dining room Wednesday through Saturday evenings with dishes fr om Chef Je rome Pope that r ange from down-home favorites to pastas. $$$ f

ELEVATE YOUR DINING EXPERIENCE. RIVUE, Louisville’s newest upscale restaurant and lounge, is unlike anything you’ve seen before. It features breathtaking views, sophisticated décor, and twin revolving floors that let you drink it all in. And the contemporary cuisine is just as amazing. RIVUE is more than a new restaurant, it’s dining at a whole new level. NOW OPEN.

140 NORTH FOURTH STREET 25 STORIES ABOVE THE GALT HOUSE TUES.-SAT. 5:30-10 P.M. LOUNGE OPENS AT 4 P.M. 502-568-4239 rivue.com

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CORNER CAFÉ 9307 New Lagrange Rd., 426-8119 .

There’s nothing fancy or overly elegant about this suburban neighborhood old favorite, but the term “eclectic” fits it well. $$ p INTERMEZZO AMERICAN CAFÉ & CABARET 316 W. Main St., 584- 12 65. T he elegant r estaurant space in A ctor’s T heatre of L ouisville’s his toric building features casual American bistro fare in an attractive dining room, plus nightly entertainment in a cabaret style. $$$ p e J. ALEXANDER’S RESTAURANT 102 Oxmoor Court, 339-2 2 06. T his c omfortably upscale v enue, a Nashville-based chain, f eatures “ contemporary American” f are with a br oad menu that r anges from burgers and sandwiches to such upscale eats as grilled tuna or a New York strip steak. $$$ p f J. HARROD’S 7507 Upper Riv er Rd., 2 2 8-4555. J .

Harrod’s is discr eetly tas teful and pleasantly comfortable. The food is competitive in both quality and value. It’s an appealing, upscale blend of bis tro fare and old-fashioned country cooking. $$$ p JACK FR Y’S 1007 Bar dstown Rd., 45 2 -92 44. If y ou want t o give visiting friends a one-shot sample of Louisville’s urban dining s tyle, ther e’s no bett er destination than Jack Fry’ s. T his popular spot is always packed. It sa ves jus t a whiff of the r affish aspect of its 1960s-er a predecessor, a local saloon, but upgr ades it with cr eative American f are in a bistro setting. $$$$ p e JARFI’S BIS TRO 501 W . Main St., 589-5060 . T he affable Jeff Jarfi is the epon ymous hos t of this sharp, stylish venue in the K entucky Center for the Arts. Eclectic cuisine—including sushi!—plus popular lunch and pr e-theater buff ets ar e attracting happy crowds. $$$ p JOHN E’S 3708 Bar dstown Rd., 456- 1111. T his old Louisville tradition earns a warm recommendation.

From its c ozy setting in a his toric Buechel home to its do wn-home servic e t o its good Americanstyle fare at reasonable prices. $$$$ p e KT’S 2 300 L exington Rd., 458-8888. It ’s har d t o argue with suc cess, and K T’s has earned its popularity by providing good American-style bar and bistro chow for a price that’s fair. $$ p f MAKER’S MARK BOURBON HOUSE & LOUNGE Fourth Str eet Liv e, 568-9009 . Under a lic ensing agreement with the management of Fourth Street Live, K entucky’s Mak er’s Mark Dis tillery lends its name and its signatur e r ed-wax image t o this stylish r estaurant and lounge in the booming downtown entertainment complex. A magis terial bar f eatures mor e than 60 Bourbons, and the menu offers traditional Kentucky fare. $$$ p f MELTING POT 2045 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-3125.

This Florida-based chain brings back pleasant memories of fondue parties of the ’70s. If you can melt it and dip things in it, the Melting Pot probably has it on the menu. $$$ p NAPA RIVER GRILL 3938 Dupont Circle, 893-0141.

This s tylish St. Matthe ws venue spans Calif ornia and the Pacific Rim, earning its reputation as one of the city’ s leading r estaurants on the basis of Innovative wine-country cuisine, excellent service and a fine California-focused wine collection. $$$ pf NERO’S Caesars Indiana Casino , Elizabeth, IN, 888766-2648. Joining Portic o as the sec ond high-end, fine-dining r estaurant at Caesar ’s Indiana, Ner o’s complements Portic o’s all- American s teak-andseafood theme with a br oader int ernational menu that ranges from Tuscan fettuccini to Memphis BBQ pork ribs. $$$ p OLD S TONE INN 6905 Shelbyville Rd., Simpson ville, KY, (502) 722-8200. Under the management of Paul Crump, f ormerly of Por cini, this his toric s tone building (east of L ouisville in Simpson ville) carries on the r eputation that has made the c omfortably 60 Summer 2007 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

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nostalgic r estaurant popular f or mor e than a generation. $$$ p f THE P ATRON 3400 Fr ankfort A ve., 896- 1661.

Viewed from the perspective of an e vening meal, the P atron off ers some of the bes t c ooking in town. Chef Amber McC ool off ers a dinner menu that changes fr equently, based on what ’s available and perhaps the chef’s whim. It’s not just adventurous but civilized. $$ p P.F. CHANG’S CHINA BIS TRO 912 0 Shelb yville Rd., 32 7-7707. T his Ariz ona-based, Chinese themed restaurant off ers a loud, happ y sc ene with Chinese-style dishes. T o its cr edit, e verything is prepared well and service is consistently fine. $$ p RAW SUSHI L OUNGE 52 0 S. F ourth St., 585-5880 (see listing under Asian/Japanese) RED S TAR T AVERN Fourth Str eet Liv e, 568-5656.

Billed as “a hip, contemporary version of the classic American ta vern,” this chain oper ation in the rehabilitated former Galleria features steaks, chops and seafood in an atmospher e that’s upscale and clubby, with an e xtensive bar as a k ey part of the action. $$$ p f RIVUE 140 N. F ourth St., ( Galt House Hot el) 5895200. As part of an o verall makeover, Galt House management has c ompletely redone the dark old Flagship R oom, c onverting the hot el's r evolving building-top v enue int o a sophis ticated, upscale and architecturally stunning dining room. $$$ p RICK’S FERRARI GRILLE 3930 Chenoweth Ln., 8930106. Popular local restaurateur Rick Dissell is the amiable host at this St. Matthe ws restaurant that bears his name , and w e don’t mean “F errari.”

Excellent libations and upscale American f are make it a popular des tination. $$ p f e ROCKWALL BISTRO 3426 Paoli Pike, Floyds Knobs, IN., 948-1705. This stylish spot takes full advantage of an old rock-quarry location in scenic Floyds Knobs to offer an atmospheric eatery, with a creative menu and an int eresting, aff ordable wine lis t. It's w ell worth the trip acr oss the Ohio f or one of the ar ea's most enjoyable dining experiences. $$ p f SPEAKEASY 225 State St., New Albany, IN, 981-0981.

Another k ey pla yer in the de veloping Southern Indiana r enaissance, T he Speak easy off ers c ontemporary bis tro-style f are in a jazz bar setting, with nightly ent ertainment r anging fr om jazz t o big band music. $$$ p f e UPTOWN CAFÉ 162 4 Bar dstown Rd., 458-42 12 .

Across the s treet and a s tep downscale from its partner, Café Metro, the Uptown Café (now a nonsmoking venue except f or the bar) off ers similar fare with a bit more of a bistro feel for quite a few bucks less. $$ p f YACHING’S EA ST WES T CUISINE 105 S. F ourth St., 585-4005. Yaching’s promises “an eclectic menu of contemporary Asian fusion cuisine.” It’s an attractive mix of Eas t and W est, sufficient t o give jus t about everyone something t o enjo y, r egardless of which compass point attracts your taste buds. $$$ p

ATRIUM CAFÉ 9940 C orporate Campus Dr .

(Embassy Suit es), 42 6-9191. An eclectic bis tro atmosphere in the heart of the hotel. Specials run from their popular cr ab cakes and arr ay of pas ta dishes to a Reuben sandwich or fruit pie . $$ p BAXTER S TATION BAR & GRILL 12 01 P ayne St., 584-1635. This cozy spot looks a lot lik e a neighborhood saloon, but the eclectic menu and unique atmospher e tak e it a not ch upscale , and the weatherized patio is comfortable almost yearround. Take particular not e of an impr essive beer list to go with your meal. $$ p f BISTRO 301 301 W. Mark et St., 584-833 7. Quality contemporary American cuisine in a s tylish, www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Summer 2007 61

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recently renovated environment makes Bistro 301 a r easonable alt ernative when y ou’re looking f or upscale-casual dining downtown. $$$ p f BISTRO NEW ALBANY 148 E. Market St., New Albany, IN, (812 ) 94 9-52 2 7. T his r ecent and w elcome addition to downtown New Albany brings casual upscale gourmet dining t o the city’ s old do wntown, with high quality local meats, pr oduce and microbrewery beers. Extra credit, in season, for its inviting French Quarter-style patio. $$ p f e BLUEGRASS BISTRO 3819 Bardstown Rd., 458-6 111.

Chefs Sc ott Schamel, f ormerly of the Br own Hotel, and Anthon y L orie bring a ne w, gourmetstyle menu t o this attr active spot in the Derb y City Antique Mall in Buechel (formerly Derby City Café). Open for lunch daily except Sunday. $ BOURBONS BIS TRO 2 2 55 Fr ankfort A ve., 8948838. Bourbon, K entucky’s tr aditional nectar, owns a plac e of honor in L ouisville eateries and watering holes that sho wcase its pleasur es.

Bourbons Bis tro c ombines a fine bar and comfortably upscale-casual restaurant featuring what mus t be the w orld’s mos t c omprehensive Bourbon list. The bill of fare is well-matched with the excellence of its libations. $$$ p f BRIX WINE BAR 12418 La Gr ange Rd., 2 43-112 0. T he use of an e xceptionally obscur e wine t erm (it ’s pronounced “bricks” and refers to the sugar content of ripe gr apes at harv est) hints that the pr oprietors of this ne w wine bar kno w their f ood. Int eresting wines and a short bis tro-style menu mak e it a welcome suburban addition. $ CAFÉ LOU LOU 106 Sears Ave, 893-7776. This popular spot now moves from Clifton to suburbia, reopening in the St. Matthe ws building that mos t r ecently housed MacV ittie's and w as the original home of Asiatique. Owner-Chef Cla y W allace brings his international, L ouisiana-influenced bill of f are along intact, and the c olorful, bold art r etains much of the familiar atmosphere. $$ p DITTO’S GRILL 1114 Bardstown Rd., 581-912 9 . W ith fresh and gener ous portions, I lea ve s tuffed and happy e very time I visit this s tylish y et casual Highlands f avorite. Chef /Co-owner Domonic Serratore—a pioneer of the local dining sc ene— serves up fr esh and gener ous portions fr om a menu that offers an internationally eclectic bill of fare that r anges all o ver the map . Fr om K ansas City ribs and Ne w England cr ab cak es t o T hai chicken wings or Chinese burrit os. $$ p HARD ROCK CAFÉ Fourth Str eet Liv e, 568-2 2 0 2 .

Louisville’s Fourth Street Live opened with a bang amid hammering guitars and happy throngs as the city gained its first branch of this popular shrine t o rock with its giant neon guitar to show you the way.

The music sc ene is the dr aw, but y ou’ll ha ve no complaints about Har d Rock’s standard American cuisine. $$ p f e JACK’S L OUNGE 12 2 Sears A ve., 89 7-902 6. A sophisticated, elegant bar as sociated with the Equus restaurant next door, Jack’s offers a short but e xcellent menu f eaturing appetiz ers and light bit es, along with a drinks lis t be yond reproach. $ p JAZZ F ACTORY 815 W . Mark et St. ( Glassworks), 992 -32 42 . L ouisville’s r estored Glas sworks building mak es a natur al home f or this edgy , stylish venue f or serious, liv e jazz. No w in-house food pr ep in c ooperation with clas sy P ark Plac e adds luster to the bill of f are. $$ p e KIMIS A SIAN BIS TRO 1915 Blank enbaker Pk wy., 2 36-1915. R estaurateur John Chung is amiable host at this ne w Eas t End v enture, an upscale Asian bistro that blends tr aditional Japanese fare with Chinese and K orean fla vors, including such Pacific Rim dishes as sushi, Chilean sea bas s with sweet mango and t orched salmon in par chment paper. $$ p 62 Summer 2007 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

L&N WINE BAR AND BIS TRO 1765 Mellwood Ave., 897-0070. If y ou’re enthusias tic about good wine, you’re going t o be excited about L &N. The fruit of the vine takes center stage in a vast, fairly priced wine list and imposing Cruvinet dispenser, with over 100 wines a vailable by the glass. Comfortable exposed-brick atmosphere and excellent bistro fare add to the draw. $$ p f NIOS 917 Baxt er A ve., 456- 7080. Specializing in a selection of “small plates,” a concept akin to tapas or the similar Latino bocaditos, Nios hits a culinary home run in this his toric building that housed Jupiter Grill and later @mosphere. $$$ p f RAMSI’S CAFÉ ON THE W ORLD 12 93 Bar dstown Rd., 451-0700. Small, funk y and fun, this f avorite spot of the Highlands’ Gener ation X cr owd attracts f oodies of all ages with its friendly setting, r easonable pric es and w ell-prepared international cuisine. $$ f SWEET PEA S SOUTHERN 2 350 Fr ankfort A ve., 894-9091. T his c omfortable Cr escent Hill spot features traditional Southern f are with a t ouch of creative innovation. Expansive lunch and weekend buffets offer particularly fine value. $ p f TOLOGONO 3702 L exington Rd., 899-2 005. In an intriguing twist on takeout food, Tologono’s firstrate chefs will mak e you a gourmet-s tyle meal to take out ( or e ven ha ve deliv ered, within a reasonable radius of its St. Matthe ws venue) and enjoy in the c omfort of home . I’v e f ound the dishes fully competitive with local bistro fare, and more than competitive in price. $$

ANGIE’S CAFÉ 4010 Dupont Circle, 895-7064. This small r etail bak ery and deli, hidden a way on the back side of the Dupont Pr ofessional T ower building near Napa Riv er Grill in St. Matthe ws’ Dupont Cir cle shopping dis trict, off ers an affordable option for neighborhood diners. $ APPLEBY’S CAFÉ & WINE BAR 2 01 Spring St., Jeffersonville, IN, 2 83- 3663. Fine dining in a casual atmospher e. F are r anges fr om a wardwinning chili and the “Big St eve” burger at lunch to fine dining at night. T he recently added W ine Cellar offers the same fine fare and classy wine in a more casual atmosphere. $ p e f AROMA CAFÉ Caesars Indiana Casino , Elizabeth, IN, 888- 766-2 648. Gr ab a bit e bef ore hitting the casino . Sandwiches, salads, sides, c old beverages and coffee will fuel you for a night of entertainment. $ BLUE DOG BAKER Y AND CAFÉ 2 868 Fr ankfort Ave., 899-9800 . T his bak ery with its $50 ,000 Spanish wood-fired oven makes artisanal bread as good as you’ll find in the US, and competitive with the best in Eur ope. Its c omfortable, upscale café offers a short selection of tas ty dishes made t o show off the fine breads. $$ f BLUE MOUNT AIN C OFFEEHOUSE & WINE BAR 400 E. Main St., 582 - 32 2 0. Hos t Nicholas Arno adds a Jamaican ac cent, and Jamaican Blue Mountain coffee is the specialty, at this sleek and sophisticated new spot across Main from Slugger Field. A c offee house b y da y, it adds a wine-bar vibe in the evenings. $$ f BULLDOG CAFÉ 10619 W. Manslick Rd., 380-0600. $ f THE BUTTERFLY GARDEN CAFÉ 132 7 Bar dstown Rd., 456-4500. This tasteful little spot off ers teas and light er lunch f are in an attr active old-house setting. $ f THE CAFÉ A T THE L OUISVILLE ANTIQUE MALL 900 Goss Ave., 637-6869. One of the city’ s most attractive spots f or antique , this ca vernous old factory building off ers a similarly attr active plac e

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to catch lunch while you shop, offering a selection of competently made luncheon fare. $ CAFÉ FRAICHE 3642 Br ownsboro Rd., 894-89 2 9.

Cuisine from around the w orld is f eatured at this East End neighborhood café, f eaturing homemade soups, breads and a variety of entrées on a seasonally changing menu. $ CAFÉ J 3600 Dut chmans Ln. ( Jewish C ommunity Center), 459-0660. This authentic delicatessen in the Jewish Community Center offers fully k osher fare including homemade soups, salads and wideranging hot entrées. $ f CAMILLE’S SIDEWALK CAFÉ 2060 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 493-2005 $ f CHEDDAR BO X CAFÉ 12 12 1 Shelb yville Rd., 2 452622, 3909 Chenoweth Sq., 893-2324. Ladies who lunch oft en do so her e, lur ed b y an attr active selection of luncheon soups, salads and sandwiches .and desserts. $ f CITY CAFÉ 1907 S. F ourth St., 6 35-02 2 2 , 505 W .

Broadway, 589- 1797, 12 50 Bar dstown Rd., 4595600, 500 S. Pr eston St., 85 2 -5739. Chef Jim Henry, a long-time s tar in the city’ s culinary firmament, brings his cooking skills and insistence on fresh, quality ingr edients to these simple , but excellent, spots for lunch. $ f

another K ayrouz gener ation is back in busines s, starting small in the tiny spot that once housed the original Tony Boombo zz. T hey’ve made good use of the spac e, off ering man y of the f amily’s old favorites in a stylishly renovated setting. $ f MERIDIAN CAFÉ 112 Meridian A ve., 897-9703. This little lunch spot oc cupies a c ozy old house in St. Matthews. Servic e is c ompetent and polit e, the place is sparkling clean, and the luncheon-s tyle fare ranges from good to excellent. $ MR. Z’S KITCHEN 869 S. Third St., 584-8504. It’s run by a friendly immigr ant f amily fr om Eas tern Europe, but the f ood is all- American at Mr . Z’ s Kitchen. It offers an appetizing option for a hearty diner-style meal. $ NORTH END CAFÉ 1722 Frankfort Ave., 896-8770.

This atmospheric Clift on spot in an artfully redesigned old shotgun house is one of the city’s most popular spots f or upscale casual dining.

The eclectic menu off ers div erse tapas and interesting entrées. It ’s an appealing, aff ordable place to dine. $ f PIG AND A PEPPERMINT 9521 US Hwy 42, 292-1245. $ f QUEUE CAFÉ 220 W. Main St. (LG&E Building), 583-0273. $

SWEET ‘N’ S AVORY CAFÉ 1574 Bar dstown Rd., 456-6566. Hearty brunch f are with a v egetarian accent mak es S weet ‘n’ Sa vory a popular destination for the Bardstown Road bunch. $ SWEET SURRENDER 1804 Frankfort Ave., 458-6363.

After moving from its original Fr ankfort Avenue to Bardstown Road a few years ago, owner and pastry chef Jessica Haskell is moving back t o her original neighborhood, mor e or les s, and w e're sur e her loyal fans will follow. $$ f THIRD AND MAIN CAFÉ Building) 587-6171. $ f

2 2 0 W . Main St. (L

G&E

THIRD AVENUE CAFÉ 1164 South Third St., 585-2233.

One of m y f avorite plac es f or a casual meal, this exceptionally pleasant neighborhood eat ery is attracting lo yal cr owds with e xcellent f are and a cozy setting that brings you back for more. $$ p f e THYME CAFÉ 711 S. T hird St., 58 7-0400. This spicy eclectic café serv es up big tas te with special tuna, ham and chick en entrées and sandwiches. Fr esh basil tomato soup with the BLT on grilled sourdough is a fast-rising favorite in the neighborhood. $ TREET’S BAKER Y CAFÉ 133 E. Mark et St., Ne w Albany, IN., 945-5440 . T eresa Clancy , whose

CRAVE CAFÉ & CA TERING 2 2 50 Fr ankfort A ve., 896-1488. L ogos C offee House is gone , but its proprietor, Ellen Guilford, now joins with Shannon Foster of In Good T aste Cat ering t o off er casual café f are in this c omfortable old fr ame house in Clifton. $ f CYCLERS CAFÉ 2295 Lexington Rd., 451-5152. Is it a bicycle shop or a r estaurant? Well, it ’s both. T his informal spot will sell y ou a firs t-rate sandwich, soup or salad or a tire for your bike—or the whole darn bike! $ f DERBY CAFÉ 704 C entral A ve. (K entucky Derb y Museum), 634-0858. Lunch serv ed year-round in the dining ar ea adjac ent t o the Derb y Museum with such regional favorites as meaty Burgoo, and the Hot Brown. $ f DIEFENBACH CAFÉ 12 8 S. Ne w Alban y St., Sellersburg IN, 246-0686. $$ p e ERMIN’S BAKER Y & CAFÉ 12 01 S. Firs t St., 6 356960, 723 S. F ourth St., 58 7-9390, 454 S. F ourth Ave., 585-5120, 9550 U.S. Hwy 42, 228-7210, 2736 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 941-8674. These popular bak eries attr act cr owds looking f or an enjoyable soup and sandwich lunch highlighted by French-style breads and pastries. $ FEDERAL HILL 310 Pearl St., Ne w Albany IN, 9486646. $ f GERMANTOWN CAFÉ 1053 Gos s A ve., 6 37-9412 .

One of the man y old-f ashioned, simple and welcoming bars serving pub grub in L ouisville’s old Germantown neighborhood is as good a spot as any for a hot burger and a cold beer. $ p f e GRAPEVINE PANTRY & GIFT SHOP 11418 Old Main St., Middlet own, K Y, 2 45-1569. T he Middlet own Historic Dis trict is booming with s torefronts, restaurants and a laid back glimpse of the pas t.

The Gr apevine P antry off ers homemade soups, sandwiches and salads, cakes and pies. $ J. GRAHAM’S CAFÉ & BAR 335 W. Broadway (The Brown Hot el), 583- 12 34. T he Br own’s casual café offers an alternative to the upscale English Grill. $ p JENICCA’S CAFÉ & WINE BAR 636 E. Mark et St., 587-872 0. A w orthy edition t o the booming arts district east of downtown, Jenicca’s is sophisticated and stylish, a fine c offee shop and casual wine bar with light fare and an upscale art-gallery vibe . $ f KAYROUZ CAFÉ 12 7 W iltshire Ave., 896-2 6 31. T hose who w ere saddened b y the los s of St. Matthe ws landmark J.P. Kayrouz will be delighted to learn that www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Summer 2007 63

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husband, Da ve Clancy , pr esides as chef of the excellent Bistro New Albany restaurant, goes into friendly c ompetition with her mat e with this casual bakery just across the street. $ f WHITNEY’S DINER 3061 Br eckenridge Ln., 454-5955.

Recently relocated a mile or so in Bar dstown Road from its original F ern Cr eek location, Whitne y's remains a c omfortable spot f or a casual, diner-s tyle breakfast, lunch or dinner. $ WILD EGGS 3985 Dutchmans Ln., 893-8005. Coming in mid-September, the owners of Napa Riv er Grill launch the firs t outlet of a local mini-chain. W ild Eggs will off er br eakfast and lunch including traditional f avorites and specialty omelets and crepes with upscale t ouches at moder ate prices, plus a tr ained espr esso baris ta and full bar service. $ p

BONEFISH GRILL 657 S. Hurs tbourne Pk wy., 4 12 4666. T his fr anchise c oncept fr om the Floridabased Outback St eakhouse chain off ers impressive seafood in a c omfortable setting. Add Bonefish t o y our short lis t of suburban chain eateries that do the job right. $$$ p CAROLINA SHRIMP & SEAFOOD 392 2 W estport Rd., 894-8947. In an Eas t End neighborhood rich with seaf ood eat eries, Car olina off ers a tas ty option within w alking dis tance of do wntown St. Matthews. T his spartan little joint f eatures shellfish and c od, much of it healthfully s teamed, not fried, in an aff ordable family setting. $ CLARKSVILLE SEAFOOD 916 Eas tern Blv d., Clarksville, IN, 2 83-8588. As the only surviving descendant of Louisville’s old Cape Codder chain, Clarksville Seafood upholds a long and honorable tradition. The menu is simple—fried fish and fried seafood, serv ed on paper tr ays—but it is consistently excellent and affordable. $ THE FISH HOUSE 1310 W inter A ve., 568-2 99 3.

Louisville is as o verflowing as a w ell-stocked lake with fish-sandwich houses, and The Fish House is right up there with the best. Crisp breading laced with black pepper is the signatur e of Green River fried fish from Western Kentucky. $ f THE FISHER Y 362 4 L exington Rd., 895- 1188. T he original fried-fish eatery in a neighborhood that ’s now awash with them, T he Fishery remains justly popular f or its quick, sizzling hot and aff ordable fish and seafood meals. $ f THE FISHERY STATION 5627 Outer Loop, 968-8363.

Family owned and f amily style dining with a wide net of seafood dinners and appetiz ers. Lunch and dinner menus also include such delicacies as fr og legs, shrimp and alligator. $ p HILL STREET FISH FRY 111 E. Hill St., 636-3474. This Old Louisville tradition is small and eas y to miss, but it ’s worth the effort to get by. Its oversize fried whitefish sandwich is the flagship dish, but a v aried menu is also available. $ f ISLAMORADA FISH COMPANY 951 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarks ville, IN, 2 18-5300 . Spa wned b y a beachside eat ery in the Florida K eys, Islamor ada Fish Company has locations in many of the nation’s 30 Bass Pro Shops, including Clarks ville’s gigantic entry in the f ormer Riv er F alls Mall. Beach-shack decor adds fun, and its e xpansive menu off ers a broad selection of seafood and fish. $$ p JOE’S CRAB SHA CK 131 Riv er Rd., 568- 1171. T he setting is bright, noisy and fun. But the food is the bottom line , and I’m pleased t o r eport that the seafood at Joe’s uniformly fresh and fine. $$ p f JOJO’S FISH MARKET 2 902 Bar dstown Rd., 4517100. This small Highlands shop , vacant since the closing of the short-lived Highland Fish Market, is frying fish again, with dec or and s tyle so little 64 Summer 2007 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

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changed that they’re still using the same sign out front. Fried fish sandwiches, oversized fish tacos and other seafood fare are first-rate and fairly priced. $ KINGFISH RES TAURANT 302 1 Upper Riv er Rd., 895-0544, 1610 Kentucky Mills Dr., 240-0700, 601 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville, IN, 284-3474. Fried fish in a f amily dining setting has made this local chain a popular favorite for many years. Two of its properties—upper Riv er R oad and Riv erside Drive—boast river views. $$ p f MAZZONI’S O YSTER CAFÉ 2 804 Taylorsville Rd., 451-4436. A his tory that dat es t o 1884 mak es Mazzoni’s one of the city’ s longes t-running restaurant acts. It mo ved fr om do wntown t o the suburbs a gener ation ago , but k ept its his toric serving bar and its urban f eeling, with pub grub , cold beer and the famous rolled oyster. $ MIKE LINNIG’S 9308 Cane Run Rd., 937-9888. Mike Linnig’s has been dishing up tas ty fried fish and seafood at f amily pric es sinc e 19 2 5 and r emains immensely popular. There’s indoor seating and a bar, but the picnic grove with its giant shade trees makes Linnig’s a special place in season. $ f MITCHELL’S FISH MARKET 4031 Summit Plaza Dr ., 412 -1818. T he dec or of this upscale , C olumbusbased chain e vokes the f eeling of a lar ge fish market, with an open kit chen that offers views of chefs at w ork. Quality seaf ood and servic e has made this a popular des tination. $$$ p f PASSTIME FISH HOUSE 10801 Locust Rd., 267-4633. $fe PROSPECT FISH MARKET 952 1A US 42 , Pr ospect, 2 2 8-6962 . If y ou’re on the eas tern edge of the metropolitan ar ea, Pr ospect Fish Mark et off ers good, aff ordable fish in a pleasant shoppingcenter setting. $ RUMORS RESTAURANT & RAW BAR 12339 Shelbyville Rd., 2 45-0366. V isualize Hoot er’s without the scantily-clad waitresses, and you’ve drawn a bead on Rumor’s, the original L ouisville home of the buck etof-oysters and impressive raw bar. $$ p f STAN’S FISH S ANDWICH 372 3 L exington Rd., 8966600. T he fish is the thing at Stan’ s, wher e the owner is a perfectionist who won’t sell any but the freshest fish, perf ectly pr epared. I’v e ne ver had a better fish sandwich an ywhere. W atch f or daily specials that take advantage of fresh product. $ ]

BABBY’S STEAKHOUSE 108 S. Fourth St., Utica, IN., 2 88-2 411. T his independent-minded s teakhouse is one of the metr o ar ea’s bes t v alues f or e xpertly prepared steaks. They come in all the usual siz es and c onfigurations, but someone in the kit chen has definite opinions about seasoning and grilling.

The result is a distinctive approach that rewards a visit. $$ f DEL FRISC O’S 4107 Oechsli A ve., 89 7-7077. Onc e ranked among the city’ s t op s teakhouses, Del Frisco’s r emains s trong in its c ore c ompetency.

For deeply marbled, fork-tender prime steaks, it’s still hard to beat on quality points. $$$$ p FIFTH QUARTER STEAKHOUSE 1241 Durrett Ln., 3612363. The Fifth Quarter has that touch of class that evokes family nostalgia and romantic interludes. An attentive staff serves the sirloin y our way. Some of the city’ s bes t iv ory mas ters ar e at the piano t o enhance the dining experience. $$$ p f e FRANK’S S TEAK HOUSE 52 0 W . Se venth St., Jeffersonville, IN, 2 83- 3383, 9601 Shelb yville Rd., 42 9-3714. A longtime north-of-the-riv er f avorite, this neighborhood s teakhouse is kno wn f or comfort and heary meals without pomp or circumstance. Now it s takes its firs t claim on the Kentucky side of the Ohio with an upscale steakhouse in the former Garrett’s. $$ p

JEFF RUB Y’S S TEAKHOUSE 32 5 W. Main St., 5840102. Cincinnati restaurateur Jeff Ruby, who owns five upscale eateries in the upriver city and one at Indiana’s Belt erra Casino , no w hos ts this glitzy Louisville pr operty, an upscale s teak house that bears his name . Fine beef is the main dr aw, with seafood and even sushi as a plus. $$$$ p e LOGAN’S ROADHOUSE 5055 Shelbyville Rd., 89 33884, 5 2 2 9 Dixie Hw y., 448-05 77, 9 70 Hw y. 131, Clarksville, IN, 2 88-9 789. W ith mor e than 100 properties in 17 s tates, this Nash ville-based chain parlays peanut shells on the floor and s teaks on the table into a popular formula. $$ p LONGHORN S TEAKHOUSE 2 535 Hurs tbourne Ln., 671-5350, 9 700 V on Allmen Ct., 32 6- 7500, 12 10 Veterans Pk wy., Clarks ville, IN. 2 84-5800 .

Oversize steaks and a “big sky” western theme are the draw at this chain eatery, although most of its properties are east of the Mississippi. $$ p MORTON’S 62 6 W. Main St., 584-042 1. T he steaks are as good as it gets, the atmospher e is elegant without being s tuffy, and the servic e is outstanding. Mort on’s earns a solid thr ee s tars and r anks among the t op tier of L ouisville’s upscale dining choices. $$$$ p OUTBACK STEAK HOUSE 4621 Shelbyville Rd., 895432 9, 65 2 0 Signatur e Dr ., 964-8383, 94 98 Brownsboro Rd., 42 6-432 9 , 8101 Bar dstown Rd., 2 31-2 399, 142 0 P ark Plac e, Clarks ville, IN, 2 834329. The name sugges ts Australia, and so does the shtick at this popular national chain, but the food is pr etty much f amiliar American, and the fare goes be yond jus t s teak t o tak e in chick en, seafood and pasta. $$$ p PAT’S S TEAK HOUSE 2 437 Br ownsboro Rd., 8969234. A visit to Pat’s may not be exactly like a trip back to the ‘50s, but when I at e there last, I think I sa w Ozzie and Harriet. A local f avorite, its combination of quality beef and hospitality rank it among the best steak houses in town. Bring cash: No credit cards accepted. $$$$ p PONDEROSA S TEAKHOUSE 11470 S. Pr eston Hw y., 964-6117, 816 S. K Y 53, La Gr ange, K Y, 2 2 2 - 12 2 6.

Family-style dining with the r anch theme k ept alive with the open flame fr om the grills. An extensive buff et with hot and c old f oods, salads and desserts is also available. $ RUTH’S CHRIS STEAKHOUSE 6100 Dutchman’s Ln., 479-0026. The Robb Report magazine has declared Rolex the world’s best watch, Armani the best men’s suit, C ohiba the bes t cigar and Ruth’ s Chris the bes t r estaurant. It serv es an e xcellent steak in an atmosphere of elegance that will make you feel pampered, at a price to match. $$$$ p RYAN’S FAMILY STEAKHOUSE 5338 Bardstown Rd., 491-1088, 4 711 Dixie Hw y., 44 7-4781, 6 36 Eas tern Blvd., Clarksville, IN, 282-85 20. This popular North Carolina-based chain off ers f amily dining with good v ariety: Its div erse and e xtensive buff et features over 150 items. $ STONEY RIVER LEGEND ARY STEAK 3900 Summit Plaza Dr ., 42 9-8944. St oney Riv er in the Springhurst shopping center is one of the chain’ s first properties outside its Georgia home. It draws big cr owds with its memor able s teaks and trimmings, with e xtra points f or friendly servic e and a comfortable atmosphere. $$$ p TEXAS ROADHOUSE Green Tree Mall, Clarksville, IN, 2 80-1103, 4406 Dixie Hw y. 448-0 705, 6460 Dutchman’s Pk wy., 89 7-5005, 332 2 Out er L oop, 962-7600. The spirit of the W est sets the theme for this popular s teak house . Salads, v egetables and br eads with hearty side dishes r ound out your meal options. This is family-style dining, with no tray sliding—service at your table. $$ p TUMBLEWEED SOUTHWES T GRILL (17 locations ) (see listing under Southwest/Tex Mex) Z’S OYSTER BAR & STEAKHOUSE (see listing under Fine Dining)

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A NICE RESTAURANT 3105 Blackiston Mill Rd., New Albany IN, 945-4321, 2784 Meijer Dr., 280-9160. A Nice R estaurant, billed as “Ne w Alban y’s Finer Diner,” is, well, nice. This sunny corner shop in the Old Mill Shopping C enter specializes in br eakfast and lunch. T he fare is do wn-home and simple , at a price you can afford. $ ANYTIMES A T THE RAMAD A INN 1041 Z orn A ve., 897-5101. Serving dinners only , the spacious restaurant opens at 4 p .m. and begins serving appetizers, salads, entrées and des serts. A s teak dinner is billed as the specialty of the house . $$ p

Celebrating 58 years as Louisville’s hometown favorite for top quality seafood and much, much more.

APPLEBEE’S (9 locations ) T his cheery national chain f eatures an eclectic as sortment of salads, steaks, ribs, poultry and pas ta as w ell as full bar service. It ’s as c onsistent as a c ookie cutt er, but competent execution makes it a good bargain for those whose tas tes run t o mainstream American cuisine. $$ p BUCKHEAD MOUNT AIN GRILL 3008 Bar dstown Rd., 456-6680, 4112 Outer Loop, 966-5555, 7 07 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 284-2919. Buckhead’s combination o f mountain lodge atmospher e and American-style f are mak e these popular destinations. T he lar ge menu f eatures do wnhome staples like meat loaf , pot pies, s teak, ribs, and lighter fare for warm weather dining. The view of Louisville’s skyline from the riv erfront location is not to be missed. $$ p f CAFÉ MA GNOLIA 140 N. F ourth St. ( Galt House ), 589-52 00. T he Galt House’ s quick and casual second-floor dining alt ernative, this spacious venue—formerly the River Grille, offers a range of fare for guests on the go, from bacon and eggs to a late-night burger and fries. $$$ p

THREE CONVENIENT LOCATIONS: On the River: 3021 Upper River Road ■ 895-0544 (Just east of Zorn Ave @ I-71)

601 W. Riverside ■ 284-3474 (On the Jeffersonville riverfront across from Louisville)

Around Town: 1610 Kentucky Mills Dr. ■ 240-0700 (Blankenbaker @ 1-64)

CALIFORNIA PIZZA KITCHEN 7900 Shelbyville Rd. (Oxmoor C enter), 42 5-512 5. Calif ornia pizza became a tr end when f amous chefs ga ve this simple Italian f are a multi-ethnic spin with nontraditional Pacific Rim toppings. CPK successfully translates this trend for the mass market. $$ p f CAPTAIN’S QU ARTERS 5700 Captain’ s Quart ers Rd., 2 2 8- 1651. One of the city’ s mos t attr active eateries f or atmospher e, Captain’ s Quart ers matches the beautiful setting with quality bis trostyle f are that w on’t disappoint. Summer or winter, it’s a delightful place to dine. $$ p f e CARDINAL HALL OF F AME CAFÉ 2745 Crittenden Dr., 635-8686. This oversize eatery at Gate 4 of the Kentucky Fair & Exposition Center celebrates U of L sports with a “walk of fame” loaded with awards, photos, game balls and lots mor e Car dinal memorabilia. What? Y ou w ant f ood t oo? Sur e!

Casual American dining features everything from a “Cardinal Burger” to steaks and prime rib. $$ p CARLY RAE’S 103 W . Oak St., 3 79-432 0. T his attractive Old L ouisville spot has housed a quick series of short-liv ed r estaurants including Chef ’s Table and L eander’s. No w Carly Rae’ s s tarts off strong with a diverse and appealing casual dining menu. $$ p f CHAMPIONS GRILL 505 Marriott Dr . (Holiday Inn), Clarksville, IN., 2 83-44 11. Kno wn b y locals f or its Saturday night buff et of Ne w Y ork s trip, ribe ye and prime rib . Salads, sandwiches, soups and a kid-friendly menu round out the selection. $$ p e CHEDDAR’S CA SUAL CAFÉ 10403 Westport Rd., 339-5400, 1385 V eteran’s Pk wy., Clarks ville, IN, 280-9660. This popular Dallas-based chain, drawing big, hungry crowds with its lar ge bar and f amiliar “casual to upscale American” fare. $ p CHICK INN 632 5 Upper Riv er Rd., 2 2 8- 3646.

Louisville’s familiar Chick Inn moved into upgraded quarters after a fire several years ago, but regulars still call it the “new place.” The new place is just as

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comfy as the old (although non-smok ers beware), and the fried chicken is as good as it gets. $$ p f

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borsht soup and beef Str oganoff. Daily lunch specials include lots of fresh vegetable dishes. $

JUKE BO X Highlander Point Shopping C Floyds Knobs, IN, 923-1435. $ e

enter,

CHILI’S 421 S. Hurs tbourne Pkwy., 425-6800, 3623 Bardstown Rd., 301-8888; 11600 Ant onia W ay, 301-8181,972 0 V on Allmen Ct., 301-8880 . Mor e than just a place to chow down on baby back ribs, this national chain has a wide selection including fajitas, burgers, sandwiches and veggies. $ p

HIPPO WINGS 502 E. W arnock St., 6 34-4477.

Proprietor Roy Gifford once played right guard for Middle Tennessee State University, but he’s a U of L fan now: His ne w spot v ends a fine as sortment of wings and other munchies, jus t right f or tailgating at nearby Papa John’s Stadium. $

KAELIN’S RES TAURANT 1801 Ne wburg Rd., 4511801. This Highlands tradition has been around for almost 7 0 y ears, and their cheek y claim t o ha ve invented the cheeseburger actually seems to have some basis in f act. A spacious patio and r ecent renovations keep it up to date. $ f

CULVER’S 4630 S. Hurs tbourne Pk wy., 6 71-2 001.

When the tr ademark it em is called a “ButterBurger” and fr ozen cus tard t ops the dessert menu, you know you’re not in for diet fare.

Quality f ast f ood and friendly servic e mak e this chain a popular new East End arrival. $ f

HOOTERS 412 0 Dut chmans Ln., 895- 7100; 4 948 Dixie Hw y., 44 9-4194; 77 01 Pr eston Hw y., 9681606; 700 W. Riverside Dr., Jeff ersonville, IN, 2 189485; 94 1 Eas t Hw y. 131, Clarks ville, IN 2 84-9464.

Hooter’s may draw crowds with its long-s tanding reputation as a party sc ene, but you’ll stay for the food, an appetizing selection of soups, salads, seafood and more. Extra points for the company’s regular involvement in community causes. $ p f e

KAREM’S GRILL & PUB 9424 Nort ons C ommons Blvd., 327-5646. $ p f

CUNNINGHAM’S 630 S. F ourth St., 58 7-052 6, 301 Upper Riv er Rd., 2 2 8- 362 5. Carrying on int o its third c entury in modern quart ers that captur e much of the nostalgia of its history, Cunningham’s vends fine fish sandwiches and pub grub in this downtown location and in a sec ond eat ery on Harrods Creek. $ f EVA MAE’S CREEKSIDE 6313 Upper River Rd., 2282882. If you haven’t been to Eva Mae’s for a while, forget everything you think y ou know about this quaint riverside spot: Owner /Chef Travis Hall has totally revamped the place, turning it into a destination dining room by night, down-home lunch by day, with a wall of glass and sprawling decks that overlook Harrods Creek. $$ p f e FOUNTAIN ROOM A T THE GAL T HOUSE 140 N. Fourth St., 589-5 2 00. T his c omfortable spac e features both buff et and menu dining. One pric e covers the fresh and hot buffet and salad bar. The menu oft en includes r egional and c ontemporary selections and daily chef specials. $ p GAVI’S RES TAURANT 2 2 2 S. Se venth St., 583-8183.

This f amily-owned eat ery has been ar ound f or decades. Standard casual American cuisine adds a few Rus sian-style specialties such as homemade

INTERNATIONAL HOUSE OF P ANCAKES 1220 Veterans Pk wy., Clarks ville, IN. 2 85- 172 2 . F ans of this cult classic say the Metro has been without a handy IHOP f or f ar t oo long. R elief is her e with this f amiliar fr anchise’s r ecent opening in Southern Indiana. $ JARFI’S @ MELL WOOD 1860 Mellw ood A ve., 2 599888. Jeff Jarfi, hos t of Jarfi's Bis tro in the Kentucky Center, adds a second property bearing his name , taking o ver the small spac e f ormerly occupied by A Little Peac e Café in the Mellw ood Arts C enter. Starting with a simple lunch menu, he'll add an extended dinner soon. $ f JOE’S OLDER THAN DIRT 8131 New Lagrange Rd., 42 6-2 074. Going s trong aft er man y y ears in this Lyndon location, Joe’ s has gr adually grown from a little house t o a spr awling c omplex of indoor and out door tables with liv e music man y evenings. Excellent barbecue is a specialty, and so is ice-cold beer. $ p e JOLLY ROGERS 850 Main St., Charles town, IN, 2566366. $$ f

KARMA CAFÉ 112 6 Bar dstown Rd., 58 7-0062 .

Karma Café s tays open lat e and off ers dinerstyle courses—with a few Middle Eastern dishes for ac cent—in a casually arts y and inf ormal setting. $ f KERN’S KORNER 2 600 Bar dstown Rd., 456-9 72 6.

This f amily-owned ta vern has been a popular neighborhood pit s top sinc e 19 78. K ern’s off ers freshly made ham, chick en salad sandwiches and burgers, as w ell as a menu of soups, chilis and appetizers. $ p LEGENDS A T CAES ARS Caesars Indiana Casino , Elizabeth, IN, 888- 766-2 648. T he hot and c old short or ders ar e serv ed up with riv erboat hospitality, but in a Las Vegas atmosphere. A well stocked bar and a live stage welcome the best of regional and visiting national acts fr om Wednesday through Saturday nights. $$ p e LYNN’S PARADISE CAFÉ 984 Barret Ave., 583-3447.

One of the mos t popular places in town for brunch (and dinner t oo), Lynn’s Paradise Café lur es happy, hungry crowds with its hearty fare and funky decor.

Lynn’s sponsors the Stat e F air’s t ongue-in-cheek Ugliest Lamp C ontest, but ther e’s nothing ugly about the delicious and filling f ood. $$ p MAIN MENU 3306 Plaza Dr., New Albany, IN., 9486501. $$ MANHATTAN GRILL 200 S. 7th St., 561-0024. $

When it comes to classic Italian American food, Rocky’s Italian Grill does it right.

Recipes passed down from generations.

Homemade whole wheat pizza dough prepared daily. Garden fresh ingredients.

Meatballs rolled every day by hand.

So whether you’re passionate about pizza or crazy about calzones, you’re sure to find your favorite Italian dish right here at Rocky’s.

Two convenient locations serving lunch and dinner for dine in or carry out.

Discover Italian without leaving the country 66 50407_rockys_fooddining.indd Summer 2007 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com 1

EatAtRockys.com 715 W. Riverside Dr. (off I-65, on the River) Jeffersonville, IN 812.282.3844

10206 Westport Rd. (off I-265, across from The Home Depot) Louisville, KY 502.339.0808

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MASTERSON’S 1830 S. Third St., 636-2511. A fine, family L ouisville tr adition, this f amiliar T udor structure near the U of L campus is the s tate’s largest full-servic e r estaurant and the city’ s largest cat erer. Serving a lunch buff et Mon.-Fri., 10am-2pm only. Sunday Jazz Brunch. $ e MAX & ERMA ’S 2 901 S. Hurs tbourne Pk wy., 4 939662 , 39 2 1 Summit Plaza Dr ., 4 12 -52 2 9. Max & Erma’s, a national chain that started in Columbus, Ohio’s German Village in 1972, has grown to nearly 100 pr operties with a s teady f ormula of friendly service and casual-dining f are that r anges fr om specialty bur gers, soups and salads t o mor e weighty entrées. $$ p f MIMI’S CAFÉ 615 S. Hurs tbourne Pkwy., 42 6-6588.

This Calif ornia chain, a subsidiary of Bob E vans, goes urban and upscale wher e f armer Bob is folksy and c ountry. This new East End location is drawing crowds, building its r eputation on those familiar with the chain from other places. $$ THE MONKEY WRENCH 1025 Barret Ave., 582-2433.

A popular spot in the urban neighborhood wher e the Highlands meet Germant own, T he Monk ey Wrench off ers c omfort f ood with a s tylish spin, good music, a r elaxed ambienc e and w elcoming service. A e xciting ne w r oof gar den is under construction at press time. $ p f NEIL’S PLACE 7611 IN 311, Sellersbur g, IN, 2 46-5456.

Best known for the specially seasoned fried chicken.

Neil’s also mak es excellent pastas, steaks, seafood, and salads. Homemade soups are created daily and coffee and desserts are always fresh. $$ p NORMA JEAN’S TRA CKSIDE 119 W . Main St., LaGrange, K Y, 2 2 2 -8044. T his Oldham C ounty favorite has gone thr ough recent changes, taking on a mor e upscale look and f eel as Chef Rick Boman comes back to town to work with owners Norma and John Burley. $$ p f O’CHARLEY’S (6 locations ) O’Charle y’s, Inc. c ould serve well as the pictur e in the dictionary ne xt to

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“American casual dining. ” T he Nash ville-based chain operates 2 06 pr operties in 16 s tates in the Southeast and Midwest, serving a straightforward steak-and-seafood menu with the mott o “Mainstream with an attitude.” $$ p OLD CHICA GO P ASTA & PIZ ZA 9010 T aylorsville Rd., 301- 7700. T his gr owing chain specializ es in both thick Chicago-s tyle and thin tr aditional pizza, plus an imposing lis t of 110 beers fr om around the world. $$ p f OTTO’S CAFÉ 500 S. F ourth St. (Seelbach Hilt on Hotel), 585-3201. Southern cooking with gourmet flair makes Otto’s an intriguing alt ernative to the Seelbach’s more upscale Oakroom. Check out the Southern Br eakfast Buff et and the Ex ecutive Express Lunch Buffet. $ PEPPERS BAR & GRILL 32 0 W . Jeff erson St., (Hyatt R egency) 58 7-3434. T he casual-dining facility in the Hy att R egency gets a mak eover and a full diner menu, open t o hotel guests and outside visitors as well. $$ p PUB L OUISVILLE Fourth Str eet Liv e 56 9-7782 .

Owned b y Cincinnati’ s T he T avern R estaurant Group, T he P ub f eatures “nouv eau pub cuisine” ranging from shepherd’s pie and fish and chips to more Continental dishes lik e fried calamari and a seared ahi tuna entrée. $$ p f RAFFERTY’S OF L OUISVILLE 988 Br eckenridge Ln., 897-3900. 3601 Springhurs t Blvd., 412-9000.

This full-service, casual dining establishment has a hearty menu. Specialties lik e R ed Alfr edo P asta showcase the gourmet offerings along with some of the lar gest and mos t cr eative salad combinations in town. $$ p RANCH HOUSE 2611 Charlestown Rd., Ne w Albany, IN, 944-9199. The menu and the retro 1950s decor hark back t o the original Bob C olgazier’s restaurants that Baby Boomers remember fondly from days gone by. $ e

RED ROBIN GOURMET BURGERS 9870 Von Allmen Ct., 339-8616. The Robin has landed in the Brownsboro Crossings shopping center in the far East End. The highly r egarded Seattle-based chain off ers “gourmet bur gers” and trimmings. Despit e a full bar, it r eportedly attr acts hor des of happ y youngsters. $$ p f ROOSTER’S 7405 Pr eston Hw y., 964-9464. T his Columbus-based wings-and-brews chain conquered Ohio and is no w spr eading its fr anchise wings across the Eas tern U .S., including this ne w Louisville property in renovated quarters formerly occupied by a Ryan's Steakhouse. $ p f RUBY TUESD AY 11701 Bluegr ass Pk wy., 2 6 7-7100, 1354 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN. 288-5010. If success demons trates quality , then Rub y Tuesday’s 600 int ernational pr operties and 30,000 emplo yees can s tand up with pride .

They’ve been upholding the slogan “ Awesome Food. Serious Salad Bar ” in L ouisville f or a generation. $$ p e THE RUDYARD KIPLING 42 2 W. Oak St., 6 36-1311.

The word “eclectic” fits this Old L ouisville eatery in jus t about e very dimension, fr om its funk y decor to its diverse bill of f are, not to mention an array of ent ertainment that bridges the generations fr om Gener ation X’ ers t o aging hippies. $ p f e SAM’S FOOD & SPIRIT S 3800 P ayne K ohler Rd., Clarksville, IN, 945-9757, 724 Highlander Point Dr., Floyds Knobs, IN, 9 2 3-7979. Opened b y a man named Sam some 16 years ago, the two locations feed an army of happy diners. You’ll find seafood, steaks, pas tas, salads and des serts. T he menu is extensive and child friendly. $$ p SHANE’S 1004 10th St., Jeffersonville, IN, 218-9769. $ SHONEY’S 1890 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-6870, 811 Eastern Pkwy., 636-1043, 6511 Signatur e Dr., 9698904. F or nearly 50 y ears, Shone y’s r estaurants

Warm deck days.

Enjoy them now (while you can).

Before you know it, the chill in the air will be upon us. Now is the time to enjoy the last few months of deck weather at Buckhead Mountain Grill on the river. With cool beverages, classic meals and the best view of the Louisville skyline and Ohio River, it really is something to savor.

Buckhead Jeffersonville • 812.284.2919 707 W. Riverside Dr. Jeffersonville, IN (On the river, off I-65) For more locations, visit EatAtBuckheads.com

50406_bhmg_food_dining.indd 1

A real local restaurant loved by real locals.

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have been one of America’ s t op choic es f or f ast roadside dining, and happily they’ve kept up with the times. $

offers an impr essive choic e of int ernational dishes, with some 150 selections. A seaf ood buffet is featured on Fridays. $$

SKYLINE CHILI 12 66 Bar dstown Rd., 4 73-12 34, Plainview V illage C enter, 42 9-5 773, 40 2 4 Dutchman’s Ln., 7 2 1-0093, 6801 Dixie Hw y., 9 37402 0, 42 6 W . Mark et St., 56 1-9999 7 2 1-0093, 402 4 Dut chman’s Ln. L ouisville’s outpos ts of a famous Cincinnati chili r estaurant, these casual eateries off er the r egional f avorite (r eally it ’s Greek spaghetti sauc e, but k eep it quiet) and other fast-food dishes. $

WESTPORT GENERAL S TORE 7008 Hw y 5 2 4, Westport, KY., 222-4626. Only a half-hour ’s drive up the Ohio fr om Louisville, proprietors Will and Laura Cr awford w elcome visit ors t o this c ozy destination, offering a comfortably sophisticated bill of f are that w ould in no w ay be out of plac e in a fancy city bistro. $$

SPORTSVILLE GRILL & BAR 4004 G ardiner Point Dr., 7 53-4413. A r emodeled v enue, a r evamped menu and a sports-bar theme hail the arriv al of Sportsville Grill & Bar at Holida y Inn Airport Eas t, replacing the old Duk e’s as the hot el’s dining room. $$ p STEAK N SHAKE 32 32 Bar dstown Rd., 456-2 6 70, 4913 Dixie Hwy., 448-4400, 4545 Outer Loop, 9663109, 2 717 S. Hurs tbourne Pk wy., 4 91-3397, 10 72 1 Fischer P ark Dr ., 32 6- 362 5, 980 E. Hw y. 131, Clarksville, IN., 2 85- 1154. One of the oldes t f astfood chains in the U .S., St eak N Shak e tr aces its ancestry to an Illinois roadside stand in 1934. It now boasts 400 outlets in 19 states but still sticks to the basics: quality s teak bur gers and hand-dipped shakes served, if you dine in, on real china. $ TGI FRIDAY’S 9990 Linn Station Rd., 425-8185, 2311 Lime Kiln Ln., 32 7-8443, Fourth Street Live, 5853577. T he original plac e t o loosen the tie and congregate aft er the whis tle blo ws. TGIF carries on its party atmospher e tradition with American bistro dining and libations. T he bill of f are ranges fr om bask ets of appetiz ers on up t o contemporary entrées. $$ p f TOAST ON MARKET 736 E. Mark et St., 56 9-4099.

This quaintly his toric old theat er building, mor e recently a junque shop , is no w thor oughly renovated as the buzz-worthy Toast. Chef George Morris is turning out simple yet exciting breakfast and lunch dishes that add a t ongue-in-cheek bistro spin to traditional diner fare. $ p f TOMMY LANCASTER RESTAURANT 1629 E. Market St., New Albany, IN, 945-2 389 . Value and v ariety are the s trong points of this c ommunity tradition and the f are goes fr om bur gers t o lobs ter tails.

Friday or Saturday evenings feature a buffet. $ p TRELLIS RESTAURANT 320 W. Jefferson St. (Hy att Regency), 58 7-3434. Dine on café f are in the Hyatt’s lofty atrium lobb y while y ou tak e advantage of an en vironment made f or peoplewatching. $$ p TUCKER’S 2 441 Stat e St., Ne w Alban y, IN, 9449999. Tucker’s gives you a little bit of e verything with a do wn-to-earth flair, off ering bur gers, ribs, steaks, a variety of appetizers and pastas. $ p TWICE TOLD PERFORMANCE CAFÉ 3507 W. Hwy. 146, LaGrange, 222-4506. An eclectic urban café in a village setting, about 2 0 minut es eas t of downtown in LaGr ange. T he casual menu lis ts sandwiches, fruits and v eggies; daily soups and entrées. $ e TWIG & LEAF RES TAURANT 2 12 2 Bar dstown Rd., 451-8944. A popular Highlands hangout, the ”Twig” is probably at its best for breakfast—whether you’re enjoying it while v enturing out on a leisur ely Sunday morning or heading home v ery lat e on a Saturday night. It ’s a plac e t o gr ab a quick, filling bite, and doesn’t pretend to be more. $ THE GA SLIGHT INN RES TAURANT & T AP 10317 Watterson T rail,2 66- 7112 . T his fine old Jeffersontown f armhouse, f ormerly the home of the v ery British Sir Chur chill’s, r egains an American ac cent with an upscale casual menu and attractive bar. $$ p f THE VILLA BUFFET Caesars Indiana Casino , Elizabeth, IN, 888- 766-2 648. T he V illa Buff et 68 Summer 2007 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

THE WING ZONE 905 Hess Ln., 636-2445. Another new wings emporium situated to catch the fancy of U of L f ans, W ing Z one e xcels with jumbo wings in 25 fla vors, including tr aditional Buffalostyle wings that range from Mild to Nuclear. $ f XAVIER’S 120 W. Broadway (Holiday Inn), 582-22 41.

Remodeled and r e-titled, the f ormer Bentle y's restaurant in the Holida y Inn Do wntown off ers casual dining with a ne w name that e vokes memories of the historic old St. Xavier High School building that s tood on this sit e f or mor e than a century until 1963. $$ p

BARBARA LEE’S KIT CHEN 2 410 Br ownsboro Rd., 897-3967. Barbara Lee’s has been a lat e-night refuge for years. It’s a reliable standby for those in search of traditional blue-plate special lunch food. Honest grub, honestly priced, in a rootsy atmosphere. $ BIG MAMA ’S SOUL KIT CHEN 4532 W . Br oadway, 772 -9580. Big Mama’ s ma y be the mos t hospitable place in the W est End t o get genuine soul f ood. A diff erent main c ourse is f eatured daily, all home-c ooked f ood, including such goodies as baked chicken, smothered pork chops, meat loaf, catfish … and fried chicken every day. $ CAROLYN’S 3822 Cane Run Rd., 776-9519. The steam table classic, the “meat ‘n’ tw o” gives you the roast chicken, green beans and mashed potatoes. Or pork chops, applesauce and limas. $ CHECK’S CAFÉ 1101 E. Burnett A ve., 637-9515. You can scent a whiff of L ouisville history coming off the old w alls of this quint essential Germant own saloon, along with years of frying grease. The bar food here is about as good as bar f ood gets, and that’s not bad. T he chili and the bean soup ar e particularly recommended. $ p f e THE CHICKEN HOUSE 7180 Hwy. 111, Sellersburg, IN., 2 46-9485. T he parking lot of this whit e fr ame building in rur al Indiana is pack ed on w eekend nights as f amilies from throughout the ar ea wait on delectable fried chick en. This is the v ery heart of American comfort food, including green beans, dumplings, and mashed potatoes. $$ CHICKEN KING 639 E. Br oadway, 589-5464. Spicy , crunchy and sizzling hot fried chick en is the primary draw on a short, aff ordable menu. $ COTTAGE CAFÉ 11609 Main St., Middlet own, 2 449497. This nostalgic old house in the c ountryside offers a tas te of K entucky-style c ookery in an array of lunch specials that r ange fr om homemade soups and sandwiches t o the traditional Louisville Hot Brown. $ COTTAGE INN 570 Eas tern Pk wy., 6 37-432 5. No w, this is down-home dining. Tucked away under big shade trees on Eas tern Parkway not f ar from the University of L ouisville’s Belknap Campus, Cottage Inn has been happily doling out excellent food for more than 70 years. $ DINNER IS DONE 3830 Ruckreigel Pkwy., 267-8686. $ D’NALLEY’S 970 S. Third St., 588-2003. Dirt-cheap blue-plate specials and hearty br eakfasts bring droves to the c ounters and booths of this clas sic greasy spoon. Satur day morning hours ar e sporadic, but for a quick plate of meat loaf, green beans, and mashed potat oes, D’Nalley’s is a har d place to beat. $

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FORK IN THE ROAD RESTAURANT 4951 Cane Run Rd., 448-3903. $ FRONTIER DINER 72 99 Dixie Hw y., 2 71-3663. T he name “ diner” sa ys it all, and this friendly neighborhood spot Dixie High way deliv ers jus t what y ou’d e xpect in do wn-home c omfort f are.

The word on the s treet, though, is simple: Go f or the pancakes. They’re worth a special trip. $ GENNY’S DINER 2 2 2 3 Fr ankfort A ve., 89 3-092 3.

What’s the difference between Genny’s Diner and a saloon? You can take the kids to Genny’s. Better still, y ou can get a darn good meal at Genn y’s, provided that y ou set y our e xpectations f or hearty, filling and well-prepared diner food. $ p e GOLDEN CORRAL 4032 Taylorsville Rd., 485-0004, 8013 Pr eston Hw y., 966-4 970, 140 2 C edar St., 2 58-2 540. Buff et s tyle family dining—one pric e, all you can eat. Steaks are served beginning at 4 pm. $ GOOSE CREEK DINER 2923 Goose Creek Rd., 3398070. Goose Cr eek Diner off ers old-f ashioned comfort food, as the name “ diner” suggests, but transcendently adds a gourmet tas te t o the down-home eats. $ HAZELWOOD RESTAURANT 4106 Taylor Blvd., 3619104. Whether y ou lik e y our eggs o ver eas y, or your cheesebur gers w ell done , y ou’ll lik e the Hazelwood R estaurant. Standar d short or ders cooked with lots of character and a low price. $ HOMETOWN BUFFET 1700 Alliant Ave., 267-7044, 3710 Chamberlain Ln., 32 6-9 777, 664 1 Dixie Hw y., 9953320, 757 Hwy. 131, Clarksville, IN., 285-1893. This chain serves up nos talgic dishes, cas seroles, meats and desserts that allow you to set an all-American supper table with the all-you-can eat price tag. $ INDI’S RESTAURANT 1033 W. Broadway, 589-7985, 382 0 W. Mark et St., 77 8-5154, 4 901 Poplar L evel Rd., 964-5 749, 3353 F ern V alley Rd., 96 9-7993, 5009 S. T hird St., 36 3-2 535. Gr own fr om a tin y West End tak eout spot t o a mini-chain, Indi’ s vends a v ariety of aff ordable soul f ood and barbecue specialties to take out or eat in. $

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WAGNER’S PHARMACY 3113 S. Fourth St., 375-3800.

A track-side institution that has as much history as the nearby Twin Spires of Churchill Downs. Soups, sandwiches, shak es, cherry C okes and an early bird “ trainer’s” br eakfast can be enjo yed all y ear round. Racing his tory on the w alls and serv ers who’ll call you “hon.” $ WEBB’S MARKET 944 E. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 5830318. Webb’s is deli sandwich market style dining.

Country ham sandwiches and the half-pound cheeseburger are a specialty. $

ANN’S BY THE RIVER 149 Spring St., Jeff ersonville, IN., 2 84-2 66 7. T his bus tling eat ery is caf eteria style dining done well. They serve up the standard steam table meat-and-three menu items as good as any. With the Ohio River a block away, it’s aptly named. $ CRAVINGS A LA CARTE 101 S. Fifth St. (National City Tower), 589-42 30 . T his thrifty deli off ers a variety of build- your-own sandwiches, a soupand-salad bar, and specialty bars f eaturing baked potatoes, and a monthly ethnic cr eation. $ HALL’S CAFETERIA 1301 St ory A ve., 583-043 7.

Hall’s Cafeteria has been doing a brisk business on the steam tables since 1955, attracting customers from Butchertown’s truck loading docks and from offices downtown. $ JANE’S CAFETERIA 4601 Jennings Ln., 454- 72 86.

This 40- year-old f amily-owned r estaurant kno ws how t o c ook f or f olks mis sing their home table .

Count on an att entive s taff and fr esh southern fare. $ JANIE’S CAFÉ 223 W. Fifth St., New Albany, IN, 9442 400. Owned b y T roy Lancas ter, gr andson of Tommy Lancas ter, f ormer o wner of the cat ering house that s till bears the f amily name , Janie's

Café — located in the small house tha t was once home t o Pigasus BBQ — off ers do wn-home comfort fare. $ JAY’S CAFETERIA 1812 W . Muhammad Ali Blv d., 583-2 534. Ja y’s modern, w ell-scrubbed building wouldn’t be out of plac e on Hurs tbourne Lane .

Hungry diners fr om all o ver t own find a w arm welcome at this popular West End location that ’s now run as a c ommunity-development pr ogram by two local churches. $ PICCADILLY CAFETERIA 2131 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 493-9900, 133 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 423-1733. An east end favorite for variety, Piccadilly offers roast beef, fried chicken, cod, steak and shrimp dinners, a gar dener’s lis t of v egetables and a f ew ethnic dishes for global measure. $

DERBY DINNER PLAYHOUSE 525 Marriott Dr., Clarksville, IN, 288-8281. The play’s the thing at Derby Dinner Playhouse, L ouisville’s long-running entry in the dinner-theater s weepstakes … but the e xpansive buffet dinner adds value to the mix. $$$$ e HOWL AT THE MOON Fourth Street Live, 562-9400.

What’ll they think of next? How about a nightclub that f eatures a “ dueling” piano bar with tw o pianos and a sing-along c oncept? You’ll find this 4,000-square-foot club at F ourth Str eet Liv e on the ground level. $ p e JOE HUBER F AMILY F ARM & RES TAURANT 2421 Scottsville Rd., Starlight IN, 9 23-5255. A pleasant 2 0-minute driv e fr om do wntown L ouisville, Huber’s has built a solid r eputation f or simple farm fare that’s well-made, fresh and good. Some of the pr oduce is gr own on the pr emises in season. $$ p f e LUCKY S TRIKE LANES / FEL T Fourth Str eet Liv e, 560-1400. An upscale bo wling alle y? A clas sy

JESSIE’S FAMILY RES TAURANT 9609 Dixie Hw y., 937-6332 . C ountry c ooking is Jes sie’s specialty , with hearty breakfast, lunch and dinner platters to fill the inner person. $ KINGS F AST FOOD 2 101 W . Br oadway, 77 2 -7138.

This tin y, c olorful W est End eat ery, open f or takeout only , off ers a v ast selection of filling, affordable urban f are that r anges fr om hot-andspicy chicken wings to rib tips and more. $ KING’S FRIED CHICKEN 1302 Dixie Hwy., 776-3013. $ LONGINO’S 1506 Berry Blvd., 361-9153. Don’t let the Italian family name fool you, this local fixture near Churchill Do wns f eatures do wn-home c ooking, mostly, r anging fr om fried gr een t omatoes t o hearty meat loaf to “The Manhattan.” $ MR. L OU’S C OUNTRY C OTTAGE RES TAURANT 5408 Valley Station Rd., 9 33-0806. Biscuits and red-eye gravy, country ham and grits show off Mr. Lou’s c ountry c ooking s tyle. R oast chick en is a dinner favorite, and so are homemade pies. $ O’DOLLYS 7800 Third St. Rd., 375-1690. Homestyle steam-table favorites are available from breakfast through dinner , not t o mention full bar servic e that mak es O’Dolly s a South west L ouisville destination. $ p f OLIVE’S ON FOURTH 570 S. F ourth St., 588-900 3.

No matt er what y ou’re hungry f or, chanc es ar e Olive’s has it—fr om s team-table f are t o pizza and calzones. C o-owners Linda Z eisloft and V icky Wright bring long back grounds at Sulliv an University to this comfortable downtown spot $ f TOLL BRIDGE INN 3300 North western Pk wy., 77 65505. A rich and c olorful his tory surr ounds the century-old fr ame building in Portland that no w houses the T oll Bridge Inn, a neighborhood favorite for simple, filling down-home fare. $ f www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Summer 2007 69

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poolroom? Who knew! These twin concepts from Jillian’s founders Stephen and Gillian F oster light up Fourth Street Live with a stylish blend of ’50sstyle r etro and high-t ech modern, plus a menu that serves much more than mere bar food. $$ p f

ANNIE’S PIZZA 2520 Portland Ave., 776-6400, 4007 Cane Run Rd., 44 9-4444. Annie’ s has made-t oorder pizza and a v ariety of s tacked sandwiches such as the Big Daddy Str om with beef , Italian sausage, onions and banana peppers. $

MY OLD KENTUCK Y DINNER TRAIN 602 N. T hird St., Bardstown, KY, (502) 348-7300. Talk about a nostalgia trip: My Old K entucky Dinner T rain offers a f our-course meal during a tw o-hour voyage along scenic Kentucky railroad tracks near Bardstown in vintage 1940s-er a dining cars.

Reservations ar e s trongly r ecommended. All aboard! $$$$ p

ARNI’S PIZZA 1208 State St., New Albany, IN, 9451149, 3700 Paoli Pike, Floyds Knobs, IN, 923-9805.

A favorite Hoosier pizza and sandwich stop. Insist on getting the Deluxe. $

STAR CRUISES 151 W. Riv erside Rd., Jeff ersonville, IN, 2 18- 1565. T he Ohio Riv er cruise is the bes t thing about this L ove Boat-s tyle y acht that makes nightly all- you-can-eat cruises up the river. $$$$ p f STUMLER RES TAURANT & ORCHARD 1092 4 St. John’s Rd., Starlight, IN, 9 23-3832. Fresh produce is available in the big shed a f ew steps away, and that fresh produce shows up on the tables here in mammoth portions. C ombine that with hones t fried chick en, big ham s teaks, r oast beef , and sandwiches, and you can’t go wrong. $$ f

AMERICAN PIZ ZA 6712 Shepher dsville Rd., 962 8966. $ p e ANGILO’S PIZZA 1725 Berry Blvd., 368-1032. The local favorite is the s teak hoagie , dripping with pizza sauce, pickles and onions. Angilo’ s also off ers a wide selection of hot pizza pies and c old beer. $ ANGIO’S RES TAURANT 3731 Old Bar dstown Rd., 451-5454. T his small Buechel eat ery attr acts a friendly neighborhood crowd with hefty subs and quality pizzas, along with c old beer. $

BEARNO’S PIZ ZA 131 W. Main St., 584- 7437, 2 900 Taylorsville Rd., 458-8605, 6 101 Bar dstown Rd., 2 31-2 2 2 2 , 135-F Mark etplace Dr ., 95 7-5100, 10117 Taylorsville Rd., 2 6 7-2 549, 1318 Bar dstown Rd., 456-4556, 8019 Pr eston Hw y., 968-6060 , 9 2 2 2 Westport Rd.,42 3- 12 2 4, 9 2 07 W . Hw y 42 , 2 2 89388, 7 895 Dixie Hw y., 9 37-12 34, 19 2 3 S. F ourth St., 634-5155, 922 Chambers Blvd., Bardstown, KY, 348-4848, 300 2 Charles town Crossing, New Albany, IN, 94 9-7914,2 784 Meijers Dr ., Jeffersonville, IN, 282-3125, $ p BIG WILLIE’S PIZZA PUB 10301 Taylorsville Rd., 2610650. $ BRUNO’S PIZZA 5170 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 944-5050. $$ CICI’S PIZZA 470 New Albany Plaza, Ne w Albany, IN., 944-4 942 , 309 3 Br eckinridge Ln., 45 2 -6700, 52 2 6 Dixie Hw y., 448-8895. Serious bar gainhunters will find Cici’ s culinary offer hard to beat.

This Dallas-based chain serv es up all the pizza you can eat for only $3.99. $ CLIFTON’S PIZ ZA 2 2 30 Fr ankfort Ave., 89 3-3730.

Clifton’s pizza appeals t o me with its adult s tyle, full of the bold fla vors of herbs and spic es and available with gr own-up t oppings lik e ancho vies and artichoke hearts. All this and funky, fun decor makes it one of m y favorite local pizzerias. $ f e DANNY MAC’S PASTA & PIZZA 1014 Clarks Ln., 6357994. $

DOMINO’S PIZZA (20 locations) $$ FAST BREAK PIZ ZA 682 5 C entral A ve., 2 43-1101.

Scott Hack’s new Italian spot, featuring pizza, subs and other Italian- American goodies in a spacious sports bar with a bask etball theme, is luring pizza lovers out to Crestwood for fine traditional pizzas plus such inno vative it ems as the pineappletopped Big Kahuna and, believe it or not, a baconcheeseburger pie. $ FAT JIMMY’S 9901C LaGr ange Rd., 339-8111, 2 712 Frankfort A ve., 891-4555; 2 2 08 Bar dstown Rd., 479-1040; 1382 9 English V illa Dr., 2 44-0840; 5 2 8 S. Fifth St., 589-8559 . This friendly neighborhood nook offers a cold mug of beer and a hot slic e of pizza, along with sub sandwiches, pas ta dishes and salads. The Lyndon spot lures a friendly biker crowd; the Cr escent Hill eat ery reflects its urban setting. $ FRESCO SOUTHWES T GRILL & PIZ ZA 2 047 L ytle St., 77 6-6077. L ocally o wned and oper ated but with development as a chain in its busines s plan, this comfortable, welcoming spot opened firs t in the city’ s r estaurant-underserved Portland neighborhood, off ering f ast-food s tyle and a choice of w ell-made burritos and other Me xicanstyle goodies and pizza, t oo. $ f FROLIO’S PIZ ZA 3799 Poplar L evel Rd., 456- 1000.

Just ar ound the c orner fr om the L ouisville Z oo, Frolio’s is a neighborhood pizz eria with a c ozy, dim Italian- American mood and an all- you-caneat pizza-and-salad lunch special. $$ f HERO’S NEW Y ORK PIZ ZA 10509 Watterson Trail, 2 61-9339. T his attr active v enue in a his toric building on Jeff ersontown’s T own Squar e is gaining f avor with f ans of crisp , thin-crus t Ne w York-style pizzas and other Italian goodies. $$ p f HOMETOWN PIZZA 11804 Shelbyville Rd., 245-4555, 8442 Dixie Hw y., 9 35-3555, La Gr ange Squar e Shopping C enter, 2 2 2 -4444. P asta dishes, hoagies, s tromboli and c old beer ar e a vailable, and so is the one-of-a-kind Bac on Cheeseburger pizza. $$ IROQUOIS PIZZA 6614 Manslick Rd., 363-3211. $$ JOCKAMO’S PIZZA PUB 983 Goss Ave., 637-5406.

Old-timers are delighted to see Jock amo’s Pizza Pub back in business in Germantown, more than a decade after it depart ed Bardstown Road. Some of the original o wners ( except the lat e Da ve Wilder) ha ve r ecreated the s tyle, the mood and the live music, of the original. $$ e KING BENNY’S PIZ ZA T AVERN 634-1003. $$ p f e

1919 S. Pr eston,

LITTLE CAES AR’S PIZ ZA 816 K enwood Dr ., 3665599, 9017 G alene Dr ., 2 6 7-8600, 562 2 Pr eston Hwy. 966-5800 , 6 714 Out er L oop, 966- 3111, 12 418 LaGrange Rd., 2 41-5445. T his Detr oit-based pizzeria chain los t mark et shar e in the ‘90s, but business analysts say the c ompany known f or its two-for-one “pizza pizza” deal has turned things around with a renewed commitment to quality and service. $$ LOUISVILLE PIZZA CO. 3910 Ruckriegel Pkwy., 2671188. Also kno wn as Chubb y Ra y’s, this local pizzeria mak es good, fr esh pizzas and ItalianAmerican sandwiches. $ p f MA ZERELLA S 949 S. Indiana A ve., Sellersburg, IN, 246-9517. Pleasant family-run-for-family-fun establishments. Pizza, pasta, salads and subs serv ed for lunch and dinner seven days a week. $ MR. GATTI’S 5600 S. T hird St., 36 3-2 2 11, 8594 Dixie Hwy., 935-0100, 3319 Bardstown Rd., 451-0540, 1108 Lyndon Ln., 339-8338, 2 2 47 S. Pr eston St., 6 356708, 42 00 Out er L oop, 964-09 2 0. T his A ustinbased chain w as one of the firs t national pizzerias t o r each L ouisville in the 19 70s, and quality ingredients—plus Gattiland playgrounds for

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the kids—ha ve made its crisp , thin-crus t pizzas a popular draw for nearly 30 years. $$ ORIGINAL IMPELLIZ ZERI’S 1381 Bar dstown Rd., 454-2 711. Impellizz eri's pizza, a L ouisville ic on known and lo ved f or its mas sive pies f or a generation, has returned to the Highlands! Benn y Impellizzeri's lat est v enture is alr eady attr acting happy cr owds t o the quart ers v acated b y Alameda. $$ p f PA PA MURPHY’S PIZ ZA 2 91 N. Hubbar ds Ln., 8956363, 5016 Mud Ln., 962- 7272, 9501 Taylorsville Rd., 2 66-7000, 16 1 Out er L oop, 36 1-3444; 460 7 Out er Loop, 964- 72 72 ; 12 535 Shelb yville Rd., 2 53-9191, 6756 Bar dstown Rd., 2 39-82 82 , 1305 V eterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 280-7272. $$ PAPA JOHN’S PIZ ZA (30 locations ) “P apa” John Schnatter got int o the pizza game as a Southern Indiana high-school student in 1984 and has built his business into a 3, 000-restaurant international chain on the basis of a simple f ormula: traditional pizza, made fr om quality ingr edients in a straightforward style. $$ PIZZA BY THE GUY 8109 Lagrange Rd., 426-4044.

This locally owned franchise is famous for its extra spicy, hand-t ossed dough. C ome and get it, literally, because ther e’s only a c ozy table f or three at the store and most folks pick up their pie or have it delivered. $ PIZZA HUT (15 locations) $$ PIZZA KING 382 5 Charles town Rd., Ne w Alban y IN, 945-4405, 1066 K ehoe Ln., Jeff ersonville, IN., 2 82 8286. The pizza at Pizza King is bak ed in a s turdy, clay stone oven and hand-tossed with thinner crust where the ingredients go all the way to the edge. $$ PIZZA PLACE 2931 Richland Ave., 458-9700. $ PIZZERIA UNO CHICA GO BAR & GRILL 6501 Bardstown Rd., 239-0079. This successful franchise serves up Chicago s tyle pizza—deep dish with more t oppings than crus t. Steaks, pas tas, sandwiches and bur gers c omplement the full service menu. $$ p

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specialties that ha ve w on a wards in national competition. $$ TONY BOOMBO ZZ PIZ ZA & VINO 2 813 N. Hurstbourne Pk wy., 394-0000 . Boombo zz has taken its pizza c oncept t o a ne w le vel with the opening of Pizza & V ino in Springhurs t. The new “fast casual” f acility f eatures the a ward-winning Boombozz pizzas and paninis with a w ell-chosen wine and beer lis t, in a a s triking “urban loft ” tangerine and jade setting with Italian-made furniture to add an upscale ac cent. $$ p TONY IMPELLIZ ZERI’S 108 V ieux Carr e Dr ., 42 90606. The original Impellizzeri’s Pizza is gone from the Highlands, but this decade-old s trip-center storefront near Hurstbourne houses brother Tony’s venture. If you like the massive, heavily loaded Impellizzeri pizza s tyle, it ’s a tr eat not t o be missed. $$$$ VITO’S PIZ ZERIA 32 13 Pr eston Hw y., 6 34-5400.

Reasonable people can diff er on the subject, but Vito’s f ans sa y the sizzling, o ven-charred pies at this downscale little plac e on Pr eston are among the best pizzas in town. $$ WICKS PIZ ZA PARLOR 975 Baxt er Ave., 458- 182 8, 2927 Goose Creek Rd., 327-9425, 12717 Shelbyville Rd., 213-9425, 10966 Dixie Hwy., 995-4333. Wick’s wins popularity with a w elcoming mix of good pizza, a quality beer lis t and a friendly neighborhood feel at all thr ee of its eat eries. The pies ar e straightforward, made with ample toppings. “The Big Wick” is a favorite. $ p WINGS TO GO 4324 Charlestown Rd., Ne w Albany, IN, 941-9464. $ WINDY CITY PIZ ZERIA 2 62 2 S. F ourth St., 6 363708. Stuffed Chicago-style and crispy thin-crust pizzas off er whiche ver option a pizza lo ver desires. $$ ZA’S PIZZA 1573 Bardstown Rd., 454-4544. $$

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AMAZING GRA CE WHOLE FOOD S DELI 1133 Bardstown Rd., 485- 112 2 . If you think “v egan” means only r aw carrots, bean spr outs, seeds and roots, think again. No animals w ere harmed in the making of the tas ty alt ernative sandwiches and other dishes at this neat little deli attached t o a spiffy local organic-foods grocery. $ ANOTHER PLACE SANDWICH SHOP 119 S. Seventh St., 589-4115. If you want to buy a car, go to a car dealer. To buy a carpet, patr onize a carpet shop .

And if you’ve got a sandwich on your to-do list, it makes sense to go to a sandwich shop. $ BACKYARD BURGER 1800 Priority Way, 240-9945.

The open flame at this c ounter-service diner provides the ne xt best thing t o a f amily cookout.

Sandwiches, fresh salads, fruit c obblers and oldfashioned hand-dipped milkshak es enhanc e the nostalgic theme. $ f BANK SHOT BILLIARDS 403 E. Market St., 587-8260. $ BLIMPIE’S SUBS & S ALADS 2020 Brownsboro Rd., 899-7960, 3360 Hik es Ln., 451-5480 . Sublime subs—fast and fr esh. Blimpie’s is all that … and a bag of chips. $ CHICAGO GRILL & SUBS 1626 Spring St., Jeffersonville, IN. 288-5988. $ f CHICAGO GYROS 2317 Brownsboro Rd., 895-3270. $ p CIANO’S 11904 Shelbyville Rd., 245-6997. $ DANISH EXPRES S PASTRIES 102 1/2 Cannons Ln., 895-2 863. Jus t a f ew tables turn this tak eout nook int o a sit-in br eakfast and lunch spot f or a handful of diners at a time . Full br eakfasts and light lunches ar e a vailable, but as the name implies, Danish pas tries ar e the specialty , and they’re fine. $

PRADO’S PIZZA 12935 Shelbyville Rd., 254-7220. $$ SLICE OF NEW Y ORK 9910 Linn Station Rd., 3393553. An ownership change has bes towed a new name on the former Fat Tony's Pizza in Plainview, but the primary attr action r emains authentic, thin-crust New York City-style pizza. $$ SNAPPY T OMATO (7 L ocations) A gr owing Midwestern pizza-deliv ery chain based in Northern K entucky, Snapp y Tomato mo ved int o the Louisville market this summer, taking o ver all the pr operties v acated in Pizza Magia’ s demise .

Pizzas are made with fresh ingredients (including an unusual cinnamon-apple pizza “pie”), and the chicken wings are impressive. $$ SPINELLI’S PIZ ZERIA 614 Baxt er A ve., 568-5665.

This tin y s torefront in the city’ s night club z one offers a tas ty option f or the wide-e yed-late-atnight cr owd seeking good cheap eats; it ’s open until 5 a.m nightly fr om W ednesdays thr ough Saturdays. Bett er y et, it giv es L ouisville an authentic taste of Philadelphia specialties: Philly style pizza and real Philly cheese steaks. $ f SPORTSTIME PIZZA 3312 Plaza Dr., New Albany, IN, 944-2 577. T outing “ the bes t pizza in southern Indiana” is quite a boast, but when the pizza biz is part of the Ne w Albanian Br ewing Company, the boast carries w eight. T he N.A.B. C. is the ne west offshoot of Rich O’s, nationally noted for its huge selection of microbrews and hard-to-find imports.

Try the “Herbavore” with spinach, sliced tomatoes and roasted garlic for a sizzling start. $ TONY BOOMBOZZ 3334 Frankfort Ave., 896-9090, 1448 Bardstown Rd., 458-8889 . Boombozz wins praise f or e xceptionally high quality pizza and other quick Italian-s tyle f are. T ony’s pizzas include both tr aditional pies and gourmet-s tyle www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Summer 2007 71

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DEVINO’S 320 Main St., 56 9-3939. Right acr oss the street fr om L ouisville Slugger Field, this s tylish new deli adds another lunch and dinner option to the booming eas t-of-downtown z one.

Sandwiches ar e made fr om quality Boar ’s Head meats and cheeses cut on the pr emises, with dining inside and on the patio; pack age beer and wine is also available. $ f DINO’S DO WN T O L UNCH CAFÉ 2 39 S Fifth St. (Kentucky Home Life Building) 585-2874. $ DIZZY WHIZZ DRIVE-IN 217 W. St. Catherine St., 5833828. This neighborhood eat ery is an ins titution. It goes back more than 50 years and hasn’t changed much. It opens early and stays open late and offers good value for what you’d expect. $ f DMITRI’S DELI 521 S. T hird St., 584-8060 . A do wntown deli f avorite. Daily specials ar e surr ounded by an impr essive v ariety of sandwiches, soups and salads. $ f DOOLEY’S BAGELCATESSEN 12903 Shelbyville Rd., 245-3354, 216 N. Hurs tbourne Ln., 394-0021, 980 Breckenridge Ln., 89 3-3354, 2 2 41 Stat e St., Ne w Albany, IN, 981-012 4, 2226 Holida y Manor C enter, 42 6-3354. T his c onvenient deli specializ es in bagels, as the name implies. Br eakfast means fresh bagels with an arr ay of cr eam cheese , sausage, eggs and coffee. At lunchtime lines form for sandwiches—subs, panini, wr aps, hot melts and cold cuts. $ EURO MARKET 12 907 F actory Ln., 2 43-0000. It looks like a neighborhood c onvenience store and bottle shop, but when you get inside, it contains a delicious surprise: an appetizing servic e c ounter offers a v ariety of goodies t o take out or eat in.

Don’t miss the e xcellent fried-oyster box, as w ell as an intriguing selection of quality beers and fine wines. $ THE FEED BA G DELI 133 Breckenridge Ln., 896- 1899.

The grilled salmon bur ger is w orth the visit, as well as the Triple Crown wrap with three meats or a fresh veggie wrap. Soups, des serts t op off the lunch-only schedule. $ FRASCELLI’S NEW Y ORK DELI 62 47 Cr estwood Station, 2 43-9005. S mall and spartan, this tw oroom storefront just out from Pewee Valley offers a broad selection of Italian-s tyle deli sandwiches, plus a shorter list of home-style Italian hot dishes from lasagna to baked ziti. $ HONEYBAKED CAFÉ 4600 Shelb yville Rd., 8956001, 6423 Bardstown Rd., 239-9292, 757 Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 284-1799. $ HOTDOG HEAVEN 209 E. Main St., 222-2626. $

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JASON’S DELI 410 N. Hurs tbourne Pkwy., 412-4101.

Don’t look f or New York kosher-style deli at this Texas-based chain, but suburbanites are lining up at the ne w Hurs tbourne location f or o versize sandwiches, salads, wraps and more. $ f JERSEY MIKE’S SUBS AND S ALADS 10266 Shelbyville Rd., 2 44-1991, 10519 Fischer P ark Dr ., 42 5-102 5, 9156 T aylorsville Rd., 4 99-9830. Eas t Coast-style sub shop with local faves that includes cheese, ham, pr osciuttini, capic ola, salami, pepperoni and fixings. $ JIMMY JOHN’S SUB SHOP 4000 Shelb yville Rd., 894-3331, 3901 Dut chmans Ln., 894-9 393,415 W. Jefferson St., 625- 7101, 1321 S. Hurs tbourne Pkwy., 425-4515. This Illinois-based sandwich-shop chain offers a wide selection of standard-issue subs that benefit fr om fr esh quality ingr edients. W e’re particularly smitt en with the alt ernative br ead option, thick-sliced seven-grain. Try the “Gourmet Veggie Club” for a vegetarian treat. $ f JUANITA’S BURGER BOY 1450 S. Brook, 635-7410.

For a r eal slic e of L ouisville lif e, this w eathered greasy spoon at the corner of Brook and Burnett is the r eal thing. Neighborhood deniz ens drink 72 Summer 2007 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

coffee and cho w do wn on bur gers and br eakfast until the w ee hours (the joint is open 2 4 hours). If Louisville is home to a budding Charles Bukowski, ther e’s a good chanc e he’ s sitting at Juanita’s counter right no w, recovering from last night’s excesses. $ JUST FRESH BAKER Y CAFÉ & MARKET 1255 Bardstown Rd., 451-2 32 4. T he short-liv ed Baja Fresh occupied this ne w glass-walled building f or only a short time before leaving it vacant. Now the Just Fresh chain mo ves in, off ering fast-food fare billed as healthy and natural. $ f LITTLE CHEF 147 E. Mark et St., Ne w Alban y, IN, 949-7567. E very city needs a pos tage-stampsized spot that kno ws ho w t o fry potat oes and grill up a burger. In New Albany, the place is Little Chef. Biscuits and gr avy, fried eggs, and bur gers, in a joint that seems lik e a thr owback t o the heartland of America, circa 1940. $ f LONNIE’S BEST TASTE OF CHICAGO 121 St. Matthews Ave., 895-2 380 . T his appetizing oper ation off ers genuine Chicago hot dogs and a tas te of Chicago atmosphere for a price that won’t hurt your wallet.

Make Lonnie’s the plac e to go when y ou’ve got a hankering for Windy City fare. $ LOTSA P ASTA 3717 L exington Rd., 896-6 361. L otsa Pasta originated as an Italian specialty-food store, and it has been a local f avorite for more than 20 years. It now offers deli meats and cheeses and an eclectic int ernational selection of sausages and cheese. A lar ge sit-do wn section off ers a comfortable plac e t o enjo y c offee, pas try and sandwiches made to order in the deli. $ LUNCH TODAY 590 Missouri Ave., Jeffersonville, IN, 2 82 -1005. T his outfit pr epares its shar e of the soups, salads and sandwiches that the downtown workforce needs to re-energize. $ f MAIN EATERY 643 W. Main St., 589- 3354. Smack dab in the middle of the Main Str eet his toric district, this f ashionable deli lur es the sa vvy business midday crowd. $ f MARKET ON MARKET 445 E. Market St., 568-8810.

Sharing the ground floor of the renovated, historic Cobalt building with Primo , this upscale mark et brings gr ocery options t o the gr owing liv e-in population east of downtown, and an inviting deli for sandwiches and salads, t oo. $ MCALISTER’S DELI 10041 Forest Green Blvd., 4258900, 2721 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 671-2424, 2400 Lime Kiln Ln., 339-8544, 6508 Bar dstown Rd., 2 39-9997, 1305 V eterans Pk wy., Clarks ville, IN, 2 82 -3354, 12 911 Shelb yville Rd., 2 44-5133.

Emphasizing quality cus tomer servic e, this delicatessen ladles up such soups as gumbo and chicken tortilla along with cutting board favorites.

They have a special w ay with a tumbler of s weet iced tea and lemon. $ f MORRIS DELI & CA TERING 2 2 2 8 Taylorsville Rd., 458-1668. Man y locals s till kno w this small, popular Highlands deli as K arem Deeb’s aft er its longtime pr evious o wner. Mos tly f or tak eout—it packs in a f ew cr owded tables—it ’s kno wn f or high-quality, hand-made deli fare. $ NANCY’S BA GEL GROUND S 2 101 Fr ankfort A ve., 895-832 3. A friendly and casual neighborhood gathering spot. Off erings include soups, snacks, coffee drinks and bagels made on the premises to its own rather idiosyncratic formula. $ f NORD’S BROWN BAG PUB & DELI 2100 S. Preston St., 635-6747. This simple little neighborhood spot near the University of Louisville may not be much for atmosphere, but well-fashioned if simple diner fare vaults it into the realm of serious destinations for har d-core “f oodies,” with e xtra cr edit f or friendly, welcoming service. $ OLLIE’S TROLLEY 978 S. Third St., 583-5214. A little piece of f ast-food his tory r emains on an urban

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street c orner in Old L ouisville. It ’s one of the nation’s f ew surviving tr olleys of the L ouisvillebased chain that spr ead across the nation in the ‘70s. Ov ersize bur gers with a spicy , homemade flavor are just as good as ever. $ ORDERS UP CAFÉ & DELI 1981 Nelson Miller Pkwy., 245-5991. Quick and casual, Or ders Up offers the inviting atmosphere of dr opping in t o someone’s home f or lunch. Soups salads and fr eshly made sandwiches ar e unif ormly appetizing, and sandwiches are affordably priced at $5 or les s. $ PANERA BREAD C O. 5000 Shelb yville Rd., 8999992 , 62 2 1 Dut chmans Ln., 895-9991, 601 S. Hurstbourne Ln., 42 3- 7343, 10451 Champion Farms Dr., 42 6-2 134, 3131 Poplar L evel Rd., 6 359164, 1040 V eterans Pk wy., Clarks ville, IN, 2 889400. Warm breads finish-baked on the premises make a tas ty base f or a v ariety of sandwiches.

Soups, salads, c offee drinks and a fr ee W iFi hotspot make Panera’s outlets popular gathering places. $ f PAUL’S FRUIT MARKET 3905 Chenoweth Sq., 8968918, 4 946 Br ownsboro Rd., 42 6-5059 , 12 119 Shelbyville Rd., 2 53-00 72 , 3704 Taylorsville Rd., 456-4750. One of L ouisville’s popular sour ces f or produce, cheeses, deli items, and the like. Deli sandwiches and salads are available (takeout only). $ PENN S TATION (14 L ocations). Billed as the Eas t Coast Sub Headquart ers, this sandwich kit chen does a brisk business here in the Louisville area. $ QUIZNO’S SUBS (17 locations ) T oasted br eads, a sandwich selection of meats, v eggies and fish ar e built to fight hunger. Fresh soups are available daily, from chili to chowder; so are salads and desserts. $ SCHLOTZSKY’S DELI 10531 Fischer P ark Dr ., 42 58447, 12915 Shelb yville Rd., 2 44-9069. The original Schlotzsky’s off ered jus t one kind of sandwich— “The Original”— when it opened its firs t eat ery in Austin, Texas, in 1971. Now this national chain vends a full selection of deli-style fare, with one significant improvement on the traditional deli: the servers are invariably polite. $ f SHADY LANE CAFÉ 4806 Brownsboro Center, 8935118. T wo Guys and a Grill is no mor e, but one assumes that the grill r emains on the pr emises of this suburban luncheon spot under its new name $ SOUPY’S 3019 Br eckenridge Ln., 451-532 5, 46 32 S. Hurstbourne Pk wy., 4 99-4404, 4590 Dixie Hwy, 449-2 000, 94 93 W estport Rd, 42 5-2 54 9, 2 9 30 Dr. W illiam W eathers Dr., 774-2 500. In the soup kettles y ou will find such clas sics as chees y potato, bean and ham, br occoli and cheese , chicken and dumplings and mor e. At the cutting board they’ll make you meat, cheese and v eggie sandwiches according to your custom design. $ THE S TARVING ARTIS T CAFÉ & DELI Lagrange Rd., 412-1599. $

8034 Ne w

STEVENS & STEVENS 1114 Bardstown Rd., 584-3354.

Sharing space with the popular Ditt o’s, Stevens & Stevens is primarily kno wn f or cat ering and takeout fare. They cook just as w ell if y ou choose to stay in, though, off ering appealing sandwiches and deli fare with a healthy twist. $ STRAWBERRY P ATCH DELI 11616 Shelb yville Rd., 2 54-1440. T his Middlet own deli off ers health y food with a dash of gourmet and a sprinkle of southern. $

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Boar’s Head meats and cheeses and other good things, and the y’ll build y our lunch t o dine in or enjoy on their sunny patio. $ f THEATER SQU ARE DELI 2 2 T heater Squar e, 5840364. T he name has changed (f ormerly Anthony’s), but the mis sion remains pretty much the same: Feed do wntown lunch cr owds quick and affordable deli fare and sandwiches f W.W. C OUSINS RES TAURANT 900 Dupont Rd., 897-9684. T his locally o wned and oper ated eatery looks a lot lik e the national Fuddruck ers chain, but the local bo ys do a bett er job , with huge bur gers on magis terial home-bak ed buns and a Metropolitan Museum of toppings. $ WALL ST. DELI 225 Abraham Flexner Way at Jewish Hospital, 585-4202. Offering New York style with Kentucky flair, this bus y downtown deli will serv e in-house diners or tak e or ders f or deliv eries.

Authentic Nathan’s Hot Dogs are a specialty. $ WILD O ATS NA TURAL MARKETPLA CE 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 721-7373. This national natural-food grocery includes a sit-do wn café wher e y ou can order pizzas, sandwiches, or even sushi. $ f

BAKE’S BARBEQUE 542 7 V alley Station Rd., 9 350999. Bak e’s ribs ar e smok ed t o such t ender perfection that the meat slides off the bone . This is four-star barbecue , fully c ompetitive with the region’s best. $$ BOOTLEG BARBECUE COMPANY 9704 Bardstown Rd., 2 39-2 72 2 , 7 508 Pr eston Hw y., 968-565 7.

Bootleg Barbecue off ers a t ouch of rus ticity and a good helping of c ountry hospitality, as it dishes out hearty portions of w ell pr epared and affordable smok ed meats and fixin’ s. It ’s one of the f ew plac es in L ouisville wher e y ou can get Western Kentucky-style mutton barbecue. $ f BOURBON BROS. BBQ 2 901 Br ownsboro Rd, 8962 486. L ong r ated as one of the city's bes t barbecue restaurants, Bourbon Br os. now moves from its original tin y, mostly takeout operation to the large, exotic building across the street, adding a mor e ambitious s teakhouse menu t o its excellent ribs, pulled pork and brisk et. $$ p BRANDON’S BAR-B-QUE 9246 Westport Rd., 4266666, 10 301 T aylorsville Rd., 2 6 1-0650, 7 117 Shelbyville Rd., 7 2 2 -0616. F eaturing hick orysmoked T ennessee-style barbecue sandwiches and filling, aff ordable dinners, this long-time Eas t End f avorite has added tw o more neighborhood locations. $ CLARK BOY BAR-B-Q 672 8 Johnsont own Rd., 9 335577. If it’s a little off the beaten path, there’s nothing the matter with that. Clark Bo y’s reasonably priced Western K entucky-style barbecue is w ell w orth a special trip . Lik e man y mom ’n’ pop eat eries, it accepts cash only, no plastic. $ FAMOUS D AVE’S BAR-B-QUE 8605 Citadel W ay, 493-2 812 , 1360 V eterans Pk wy., Clarks ville, IN, 282-3283. This franchise chain oper ation may be based in the twin cities, but it looks like a Georgia gas station with its e xuberant, if tongue-in-cheek faux country decor. The important thing, though, is the f ood, and Da ve’s e xcels with genuine , hickory-smoked barbecue. $$ p f

SUB STATION II 3101 Fern Valley Rd., 964- 1075. The hardy No . 19 , a six -meat-and-cheese super sub , keeps the store buzzing. An arr ay of sandwiches, salad sides and des serts fill out an appetizing lunch menu. $

FINLEY’S HICK ORY SMOKED BAR-B-Q 1500 W .

Broadway, 581-0298. Rib tips are the specialty but you’ll find turk ey legs, ham, half-chick ens, pork chops and shr edded beef and pork —all f or dinners or sandwiches, and barbecued pig’ s feet for the BBQ purists. $ f

THE BODEGA 829 E. Market St., 569-4100. This new entry in the e xciting F elice Plaza eas t of downtown c ombines a small specialty -food market, wine-and-beer shop and deli under one compact r oof. Select fr om Blue Dog br eads,

FIRE FRESH BBQ 6435 Bardstown Rd., 2 39- 7800, 3065 Breckinridge Ln., 459-5201, 808 Lyndon Ln., 32 7-6304, 2 11 S. Fifth St., 5401171, 86 10 Dixie Hwy., 995- 7585, 12 2 16 Shelb yville Rd., 2 45-2 2 73.

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coincidence, then, that Fir eFresh Bar B Q pa ys homage to local fire departments in its restaurant’s decor. T he barbecue and c ountry fixin’ s s tand comparison to the best firehouse cuisine. $ f JIMBO’S BBQ 801 Kenwood Dr., 375-1888. This South End barbecue shack, an outpost of a popular spot in C orydon, IN, off ers a fine r ange of barbecue meats skillfully smok ed on the pr emises, with sauce served on the side as it should be . $ JUCY’S SMOKEHOUSE BAR-B-QUE 7626 Lagrange Rd., 2 41-582 9. Jucy’ s off ers e xceptionally good Texas-style barbecue fr om a little w ooden shack that looks jus t lik e a c ountry BBQ joint should.

Highly recommended. $$ f MARCUS’ RIBS B Y THE SLAB 701 Algonquin Pk wy., 637-5333. L ong-known as Cleon’ s Rib Shack, this West End f avorite’s ne w name r eflects ne w ownership, but w e’re hearing that one important thing hasn’t changed: It ’s s till a fine plac e t o get manly spare ribs and soulful sides, inner-city style. $ MARK’S FEED S TORE 1142 2 Shelb yville Rd., 2 440140, 1514 Bar dstown Rd., 458- 1570, 10 316 Dixie Hwy., 9 33-7707, 513 E. IN Hw y. 131, Clarks ville, IN, 285-1998. Named f or its firs t restaurant’s location in a f ormer f eed s tore with that do wn-home country f eel, Mark’ s impr esses with high-quality hickory-smoked pork and chicken, and rich, silken South Car olina barbecue sauc e, the y ellow mustard-based variety. $$ f

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Lobster and Bahama Br eeze, this nois y St ony Brook-area eat ery c onveys mor e of a sports-bar than barbecue concept, but the ribs are fine. $$ p TONY ROMA’S 150 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 327-8500.

From the t omato tang t o a smok y Blue Ridge savor, R oma’s adv ertises its ribs as the bes t dressed in t own. Burgers, chicken and s teaks are available as w ell, but w e r ecommend the r acks and baby backs of pork and beef . $$$ p VINCE STATEN’S OLD TIME BARBEQUE 13306 W. US 42 , 2 2 8-742 7. Au thor V ince S taten, who lit erally wrote the book on barbecue (Real Barbecue), has moved on, but his name r emains on this neighborhood joint out the r oad in Oldham County. $

19TH GREEN PUB & GRILL 1740 W illiamsburg Dr., Jeffersonville IN, (812) 284-9088. $ p f BEEF O’BRAD Y’S 2 39 Blank enbaker Pk wy., 2 542 32 2 , 562 8 Bar dstown Rd., 2 39-2 2 2 6, 10000 Brownsboro Rd., 327-8881, 3101 S. Second St., 6373737, 105 LaF ollette, 9 2 3-1316. If y ou think y our basic sports pub is only suitable for guys guzzling beer, tak e another look: Beef O’Br ady’s puts the “family” in “f amily sports pub ,” off ering a wholesome environment. $

OLE HICKORY PIT BAR-B-QUE 6106 Shepherdsville Rd., 968-0585. Located in an attractive house not far fr om Gener al Electric ’s Applianc e P ark, this Louisville relative of a f amous Western Kentucky barbecue pit is well worth the trip. $

2 745 S. Hurs tbourne

DIAMOND PUB & BILLIARD S 3814 Fr ankfort Ave., 895-7513. $ p f

PIT S TOP BAR-B-QUE 13303 Magis terial Dr ., 2 536740. This familiar old local brand now resurfaces with its smok y T exas barbecue in an Eas t End industrial park jus t off the Gene Sn yder Freeway and Old Henry Road. $

DUTCH’S TAVERN 3922 Shelbyville Rd., 895-9004.

Do y ou lik e guitars with y our grub ? A popular half-way-home hangout f or decades in the heart of St. Matthe ws, this no-frills but all charm pub serves up a hardy plate lunch by day and amps up the action with music by night. $ p e

RITE W AY BAR-B-CUE HOUSE 1548 W . St. Catherine St., 584-9 385. Barbecue meis ter Kalvin Brown pr esides at this long-s tanding W est End favorite, kno wn f or its ribs and Southern-s tyle smoked meats since the end of World War II. $ f

FLABBY’S SCHNITZELBURG 1101 Lydia St., 637-9136.

Family-owned sinc e 195 2 , Flabb y’s is a quintessential Germantown saloon. It’s also one of the city’ s t op des tinations f or ine xpensive do wnhome eats, fr om authentic German dishes t o fantastic fried chicken on weekends. $

RUBBIE’S BAR-B-QUE & BREW 6905 Southside Dr., 367-0007. This South End family knows how to do BBQ. It may be off the beaten path for some folks but her e y ou’ll find the bounty of secr et BBQ recipes. $ p f e

74 Summer 2007 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

CHAMPIONS SPORT S RES TAURANT 2 80 W .

Jefferson St. (L ouisville Marriott), 6 71-42 46.

Another popular option at the s triking ne w downtown Marriott, Champions pr ovides a fun, casual dining alt ernative with a K entucky sports theme—and a gallery of big-scr een televisions to keep the sports action flo wing as fr eely as the libations and upscale pub grub . $$ p f

DELTA RESTAURANT 434 W. Market St., 584-0860.

It’s not quit e as his toric as Gideon Shry ock’s Jefferson C ounty C ourthouse ar ound the c orner, but this popular bar and short-or der spot seems as if it has been a hangout f or la wyers and the courthouse crowd for just about as long as there’s been a Courthouse. $ p

PIG CITY BBQ 12 003 Shelb yville Rd., 2 44-3535.

Down-home and hones t, the name of this ne w barbecue eatery in a Middletown shopping center pretty much sa ys it all. Smok e ’ em if y ou’ve got ’em—and they do with all cherry w ood. $$ f

SMOKEY BONES BBQ 2 52 5 Hurstbourne Gem Ln., 491-7570. A pr operty of Orlando’ s Dar den f astfood chain, which also runs Oliv e G arden, R ed

BUFFALO WILD WINGS (B W-3’S) 6801 Dixie Hwy., 935-1997, 3900 Shelb yville Rd., 899- 7732 , 9134 Taylorsville Rd., 499-2356, 3584 Springhurst Blvd., 394-9596, 12 901 Shelb yville Rd., 2 54-9464, 1055 Bardstown Rd., 454- 3635. As much a sports bar as a restaurant, this national franchise chain offers tasty snack -type f are, including the chain’ s trademark Buffalo chicken wings. $$ p f

CONNOR’S PLACE 207 E. Main St., Ne w Albany, IN, 944-02 07. Da ve Himmel, onc e a partner in the popular Bistro New Albany, now has his own place in the Southern Indiana city's gr owing restaurant scene. Connor's Place offers casual dining with a sports bar f eel in nic ely r enovated spac e in the historic Maytag Building. $ p f

PICNICATERS BBQ & CATERING 514 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 584-7427. Located across from Louisville Gardens, this place puts the hot sauce, wings and chops right in the middle of a hungry busines s district. $ f

SHANE’S RIB SHACK 12420 Lime Kiln Ln., 429-3907.

"Rib" may be its middle name, but you can also fill up on wings, chick en t enders, sandwiches on more at this gr owing A tlanta-based chain, n ow open in this former Tijuana Flats facility. $$ f

BROWNIE’S “THE SHED” GRILLE & BAR 237 Whittington Pk wy., 32 6-9830 . Restaurant o wner and namesak e K eith Br own used t o hos t neighborhood gatherings in a shed at his home .

Now he brings the same sociable c oncept to his pub and eatery. Louisville’s official home for Cincy Bengals fans, Brownie’s may be the closes t thing Hurstbourne has to a Germantown neighborhood saloon. $ p

CHATTER’S BAR & GRILL Pkwy., 961-9700. $$ p f

PEPPER SHAKER CHILI & BAR-B-Q 4912 Pr eston Hwy., 964- 3011. A squadr on of hea vy black -iron smokers burn through cords of hickory to turn out some of the town’s best barbecue at a price that’s right. $ p

SCOTTY’S RIBS AND MORE 14049 Shelbyville Rd., 2 44-6868. Ribs, pork, chick en a la cart e and dinners. The small Eas t End venue moves a lot of pizzas and salads as well. $$ p

BLUE MULE SPORT S CAFÉ 10301 Taylorsville Rd., 240-0051. Longtime buddies John O’C onnor and Jim “Mule” Riley talked for years about opening a restaurant and sports bar . Riley died bef ore their dream came true . But no w O’C onnor pr oudly presides o ver this 90-seat casual Jeff ersontown eatery and w atering hole, and he has named it in affectionate memory of his friend “Mule .” $ p e

BENTLEY’S SPORT S BAR & GRILLE 2 800 Crums Ln., 778-8886. The familiar range of bar and grill fare and libations will mak e the neighbors f eel at home in this new West End watering hole. $ p BIG D AVE’S OUTPOS T 1801 Bar dstown Rd., 4599142 . This casual, laid-back neighborhood saloon is a popular gathering plac e f or its Highlands neighbors, earning fans for libations, comfort and food that’s a notch above mere pub grub. $ p f e

FLANAGAN’S ALE HOUSE 934 Baxt er A ve., 5853700. Gourmet pizzas, hoagies, and an enormous beer selection dr aw Highlands f olks t o this c ozy neighborhood pub . F or a lat e night pizza (the kitchen’s open until 2 a.m.), it ’s one of the bes t options in the city. $$ p FOUR KINGS CAFÉ 4642 Jennings Ln., 968-2 9 30.

Steam-table servic e f eaturing spaghetti and meatballs, lasagna and chick en attr act a hungry lunch cr owd at this casual spot, and brunch specialties are just as popular. $ p FOX & HOUND 302 Bullitt Ln., 394-7620. A “British pub” c oncept oper ated b y a W ichita, K ansasbased chain, F ox & Hound’ s fr ee-standing

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property near Oxmoor C enter f eatures a “midcasual” menu with bur gers, pizza, chick en and pot r oast, in a lar ge v enue with plenty billiar ds tables and an ample supply of lar ge-screen televisions. $$ p f GERSTLE’S PLACE 3801 Frankfort Ave., 899-3609.

A popular St. Matthe ws neighborhood ta vern since 1924. Although dining is secondary to booze and sports here, the food goes well beyond mere pub grub. $ p e GRANVILLE INN 1601 S. T hird St., 6 35-6475. A longtime gathering plac e f or U of L s tudents, faculty and f ans, this s turdy r edbrick ta vern jus t north of the univ ersity campus off ers a good variety of bar munchies, sandwiches and simple grilled f are plus pizza. It ’s perhaps bes t kno wn, though, for the signature Granville Burger, widely reputed as one of the bes t burgers in town. $ GREAT AMERICAN GRILL 2 735 Critt enden Dr .

(Hilton), 6 37-2 42 4. L ocated in the L ouisville International Airport Hilt on. Salads, bur gers, pastas and sandwiches ar e a vailable f or the casual diner; main entrées include New York strip, filet of salmon and more. $ p f HITCHING POS T INN 7314 F egenbush Ln., 2 394724. In addition t o its full bar and beer gar den, and liv ely c onversation, the Hit ching Pos t Inn offers an arr ay of pub grub , including bur gers, chicken tenders, and sandwiches. $ p HOOPS GRILL AND SPORTS BAR 6733 Strawberry Ln., 375-4667. The name says it all: sports, casual dining and good things t o drink all find their natural meeting plac e at this friendly neighborhood spot wher e hot wings and hoops reign supreme. $ p f JAKE’S & MR. G’S 10432 Shelbyville Rd., 244-0165 $

p

JERSEY’S CAFÉ 1515 Lynch Ln., Clarks ville, IN, 2 882 100. Quality , aff ordable f are that goes w ell beyond pub grub t o include an a wesome smokehouse burger and barbecued ribs so tender, they say, that you can just tap the end of the bone on your plate, and the meat falls off. $ p e JIMMY AND RICHIE’S 813 Lyndon Ln., 423-7774. $$ p f JIMMY ON THE RIVER100 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville, IN, 282-2500. $ p f JP’S PUB & GRUB 5610 Outer Loop, 966-8223. $ p f THE LIGHTHOUSE 2 02 Main St., Jeff ersonville, IN, 2 83-0077. T his lighthouse has been a beac on of casual, home c ooking and ta vern en vironment f or years. Daily specials, appetiz ers, chick en and fish baskets, salads and desserts round out the menu. $ MAGGIE’S SPORT S BAR & GRILLE 10300 Taylorsville Rd., 2 6 7-9604. Jus t off Jeff ersontown's old T own Square, this new spot offers casual diner-style fare in a sports bar setting. $ f MICHAEL MURPHY’S RES TAURANT 701 S. Firs t St., 587-0013. This full servic e restaurant and bar has accommodated hardy thirsts and appetit es for a couple of gener ations. Despit e the Irish appeal, the food is American and lots of it. $ p NEW DIRECTION BAR & GRILL 2 630 Chamberlain Ln., 243-8429. $ p e NV TAVERN 1202 Bardstown Rd., 45 2-6101. The little Cribstone Pub has closed, but this little Highlands eatery was too lovable to stay dark f or long. L ook for libations and appetizing bar f are here. $ p f e

STEINERT’S GRILL & PUB 2 2 39 Charles town Rd., New Albany IN, 945-8827. This is a cross between an old f ashioned neighborhood ta vern (with an aged and cozy ambience) and a trendy sports bar.

Hearty burgers, rich soups, salads, and a full bar make this a hidden gem. $ p e

Ethiopian restaurant, offering a wide selection of intriguing Ethiopian dishes, including a v ariety of vegetarian selections as well as the traditional beef and chicken specialities. Ethiopian fare is made for sharing and eating with the fingers, but the y’ll gladly make forks available for the finicky. $

SULLY’S SALOON Fourth Street Live, 585-4100. $$ p f TAILGATERS SPORT S BAR & GRILL 2 787 S. Flo yd St., 6 37-52 41. Billed as a pr emier des tination f or good food and lots of fun, this casual spot ne xt to Papa John’ s Stadium f eatures clas sic American favorites and seaf ood specialties, plus a full bar , TVs and an expansive game room. $ p f e THE BA CK DOOR 2 787 S. Flo yd St., 6 37-52 41.

Longtime owners John Dant and Mik e E wing are known for running one of the city’s friendliest pubs at this Mid-City Mall saloon. Limit ed bar f are, but don’t miss the chicken wings. $ p f VIC’S CAFÉ E. Market St., New Albany, IN, 944-4338. $ WINGS N THINGS 2809 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 327-9464. $ WOODFORD RESER VE BAR & GRILLE Louisville International Airport, 363-2526. Named after local distiller Br own-Forman’s artisanal br and of Bourbon, this is the airport ’s fine-dining f acility, serving K entucky-style dishes in a sit-do wn environment. $ WOODY’S PUB & GRILL 12 2 05 Westport Rd., 32 78002 . F ormer home of a Hoops pub , W oody’s carries on the sports bar concept in this East End venue near the Ford Kentucky Truck plant. $ p f ZAZOO’S 102 Bauer Ave., 894-8030. If you’re looking for casual dining, ZaZ oo’s offers a mighty appealing option with its laid-back and w elcoming neighborhood bar feeling. The fare is simple but well prepared, and goes a bit beyond pub grub. $ p f e

#1 A SIAN BUFFET 12 50 Bardstown Rd., 451-60 33.

Not jus t another in the her d of all- you-can-eat Chinese buffets, this recent entry in the Mid-City Mall seats 350, boasts a private party room, and, says o wner St even Y uan, is the firs t betw eenthe-coasts outpos t of the original #1 buff et in NYC. $$ A TASTE OF CHINA 1167 S. Fourth St., 585-5582. $ ASIAN BUFFET 3813 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 945-1888, 1305 V eterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 2 85-8888, 3646 Mall Rd., 4 79-9989. C ompetent cookery and car eful management that ensur es buffet off erings s tay fr esh and hot mak es these buffets a good choic e among the growing crowd of all-you-can-eat Asian spots. $ p AUGUST MOON 2 2 69 L exington Rd., 456-656 9.

August Moon’ s secr et ingr edient is the culinary oversight of Chef Peng L ooi, better known as the force behind Asiatique. Housed in a soaring, open space with a Z en mas ter’s s tyle. C onsistent commitment in the kit chen and fr om the s taff makes it a t op spot f or Asian f are. A lo vely patio at the r ear aff ords an alfr esco dining e xperience overlooking shady Beargrass Creek. $$$ p f BAMBOO HOUSE 4036 Poplar L evel Rd., 451- 3113.

An old-timer among local Chinese restaurants, this Southeastern L ouisville spot ma y not off er the trendiest Asian f are, but it ’s a r eliable sour ce f or the familiar Cantonese-American standards. $ CHINA 1 123 Breckinridge Ln., 897-6511. $

BLUEGRASS BREWING COMPANY 3929 Shelbyville Rd., 899- 7070, 6 36 E. Main St., 584-2 739, 2 Theater Squar e, 568-2 2 2 4. A mus t-stop destination f or beer lo vers on the national artisanal-brew tr ail, but it ’s mor e than jus t a brewpub. BBC’ s management giv es equally serious att ention t o both liquid and solid f are, making this a gr eat plac e t o s top in f or both dinner and a beer. $ p f e

CHINA BUFFET 706 E. Hwy 131, Clarksville, IN, 2888989. Chinese buffets are ubiquitous, but this one is squarely in the upper range. Regularly refreshed steam tables, att entively fried ric e, and pr operly spicy General Tso’s Chicken raise it above the runof-the-mill places typical of the genre. $

BROWNING’S BREWERY 401 E. Main St. (Slugger Field), 515-017 4. Making beautiful use of the historic r ed-brick building that houses Slugger Field, Br owning’s off ers br ewpub beers plus appetizing f are that e xtends w ell be yond mer e pub grub. $$ p f e

CHINA GARDEN 7309 Pr eston Hw y., 968-46 72 . A busy r estaurant with the double pleasur e of Chinese and American menu it ems. $

CUMBERLAND BREW S 1576 Bar dstown Rd., 458872 7. Giving ne w meaning t o the t erm “microbrewery,” Cumberland Br ews ma y be one of the smalles t eat eries in t own. It ’s usually packed, earning its crowds the old-fashioned way by providing very good food, friendly service, and high-quality hand-crafted artisan beers. $ f e RICH O’S PUBLIC HOUSE 3312 Plaza Dr., New Albany, IN, 94 9-2 804. Dec ent pizza and pub grub mak e Rich O’ s a popular hangout, and his r emarkable beer list of more than 100 selections fr om around the w orld—and locally br ewed cr aft beers— attracts beer lovers from all over. $ e

CHINA CASTLE 7420 Third Street Rd., 367-4272. $ CHINA CITY BUFFET 9228 Westport Rd., 423-1788. $

CHINA INN 1925 S. Fourth St., 636-2020. It’s not the posh, private Faculty Club, but this little Asian spot may be one of the mos t popular eat eries around the University of L ouisville’s Belknap Campus. It ’s generally packed with s tudents, professors, and a squadron of campus polic e so lar ge that one wonders who’s watching the campus. $ CHINA KING 3830 Ruckriegel Pkwy., 240-0500. $ CHINA SEA BUFFET 0838. $

12 689 Shelb yville Rd., 2

45-

CHINESE CHEF 2619 S. Fourth St., 634-0979. $ CHINESE EXPRESS 3228 Crums Ln., 448-1360. $ CHONG GARDEN 10341 Dixie Hwy., 935-1628. $ CHOPSTICKS 416 E. Broadway, 589-9145. $ CHOPSTICKS HOUSE 2112 W. Broadway, 772-3231. $

SAINT’S 131 Breckinridge Ln., 891-8883. Almos t like two r estaurants in one , Saints f eatures both a small, intimat e, candle-light ed r oom and a lar ger, happily bois terous main r oom with the look and feel of a sports bar . T he arriv al of Chef Alan Rosenberg holds pr omise f or a significant menu upgrade. $$ p e

CHEZ SENEBA AFRICAN RESTAURANT 1215 Gilmore Ln., 968-865 9. Add yet another int eresting ethnic cuisine t o L ouisville’s incr easingly int ernational dining sc ene. Friendly f olks serv e gener ous portions of filling, spicy Senegalese cuisine fr om West Africa in this tiny (three-table) eatery. $

SPORTS PAGE GRILL 3701 Hopewell Rd., 263-7130 $ p e

QUEEN OF SHEBA ETHIOPIAN 3315 Bardstown Rd., 459-6301. T he r egion’s only fully authentic

CHUNG KING CHINESE AMERICAN RES TAURANT 110 E. Market St., 584-8880. $ CITY WOK 526 W. Main St., 583-7238. $ CRYSTAL CHINESE 3901 W. Market St., 776-9702. $ DOUBLE DRA GON 12 55 Gos s A ve., 6 35-5656, 318 Wallace Ave., 894-888 7. A s tandout among f astfood shopping-c enter Chinese eat eries, Double Dragon hits on all cylinders, turning out c onsistently well-prepared and flavorful fare. $ www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Summer 2007 75

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DOUBLE DRAGON II 12480 LaGrange Rd., 241-7766, 9901 LaGr ange Rd., 32 6-0099 , 6832 Bar dstown Rd., 231-3973, 3179 S. Second St., 367-6668. $ DOUBLE DRAGON 8 231 S. Fifth St., 58 7-8686. $ DOUBLE DRAGON 9 9501 Taylorsville Rd., 267-5353. $ DOUBLE DRAGON BUFFET 2 33 Whittington Pkwy., 339-8897. A sizable buff et in a chic Eas t End shopping s trip, off ers a good r ange of Chinese treats on its all- you-can-eat buffet. The fare seems prepared with attention and care. $ DRAGON GARDEN 2120 Bardstown Rd., 459-3311. $ DYNASTY BUFFET 2 400 Lime Kiln Ln., 339-8868.

The c ontinuing pr oliferation of look alik e, tas te alike, all-you-can-eat Chinese buffets never fails to amaze me. But I’m happ y to report that Dynas ty Buffet ranks well above the median. $$ EASTERN HOUSE 5372 Dixie Hw y., 568-2 688.

Serving Chinese and American f ood fr om the menu or the buffet. $ EGGROLL MACHINE 1216 Bardstown Rd., 459-1259.

A Highlands s taple for good r eason. This portion of the Mimosa Café does a brisk busines s. T he Sesame Chicken is one of our f avorites. $$ p EMPEROR OF CHINA 2210 Holiday Manor Shopping Center, 42 6- 1717. One of L ouisville’s f anciest and most not eworthy Chinese r estaurants, the Emperor’s quart ers ar e s tylishly s trewn acr oss multiple le vels of a f ormer suburban mo vie theater. Outstanding. $$ p EMPRESS OF CHINA 2249 Hikes Ln., 451-2500. Older sister to The Emperor of China, the Empr ess was one of L ouisville’s firs t serious, authentic upscale Cantonese restaurants, and its f are still stands up to fancy spots in New York’s Chinatown. $$ p FIRST WOK 3967 Seventh St. Rd., 448-0588. $ GOLDEN BUDDHA 8000 Preston Hwy., 968-7700. $

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GOLDEN PALACE BUFFET 161 Outer Loop, 368-2868. $ GOLDEN S TAR CHINESE RES TAURANT 368-1833, 3458 Taylor Blvd. $

occupied by Babylon into a temple of Asian eats, featuring mos tly Chinese dishes with a f ew American-style items and sushi rolls. $

GREAT WALL 2206 Brownsboro Rd., 891-8881. T his Clifton r estaurant r anks high up in the f ast-food Chinese pack. Offering steaming-hot, competently prepared and flavorful dishes. $

JADE PALACE 1109 Herr Ln., 42 5-98 78. When I’v e got a hank ering f or brunch, I choose Chinese .

Jade Palace is a decent place for Chinese food at any time , but don’t mis s it at mid-da y Frida y through Monday, when it off ers the metr o area’s only dim sum (Chinese brunch) menu. $$ p

GREAT W OK 2 502 Pr eston Hw y., 6 34-1918. Jus t about every shopping c enter in t own has a f astfood Chinese spot, but this one s tands out, generating a buzz of w ord-of-mouth publicity about its well-crafted Chinese dishes at a bargainbasement price. $

JASMINE 1382 3 English V illa Dr ., 2 44-8896. A charming Asian eat ery, wher e y ou can enjo y familiar Chinese-American plates or indulge y our more adv enturous side with a selection of mor e unusual authentic dishes fr om the “Chinese Menu,” available on request. $ f

GOLDEN WALL 3201 Fern Valley Rd., 968-9717. $

HAPPY DRA GON 2 600 W . Br oadway, 77 8-2 573.

Catering to office and r esidential customers, this Chinese r estaurant has serv ed the W est Broadway community for many years. $ f HONG K ONG CHINESE RES TAURANT 345 Ne w Albany Plaza, New Albany, IN., 945-1818. $ HONG K ONG F AST FOOD 5312 S. T hird St., 36 7882 8. One of the man y int ernational eat eries in Iroquois Manor, this fast-food Chinese spot offers Cantonese s tandards hot and f ast and inexpensively. Check the daily specials f or an occasional intriguing item. $ HUNAN WOK 231-0393, 6445 Bardstown Rd. $ I CHING A SIAN CAFÉ 4600 Shelb yville Rd., 89 37171. A popular Lexington eatery adds a Louisville property with the arriv al of this St. Matthe ws dining r oom, which bears a close r esemblance to Oxmoor ’s Yang Kee Noodle with its upscale fast-food pr esentation of quick dishes fr om all over Asia. $ f JADE GARDEN BUFFET 1971 Brownsboro Rd., 893082 2 . Y et another lar ge, shin y all- you-can-eat Chinese buffet, this entry c onverts the spac e last

JUMBO BUFFET 2 731 S. Hurs tbourne Pk wy., 4 950028. Housed in a good-looking dining room, high on Chinatown-style glitz and glitt er, Jumbo off ers a s tandard all- you-can-eat Chinese buff et, with a larger-than-average selection of American dishes for those who want something less exotic. $$ KING BUFFET 1801 Priority Way, 266-8886. Another in the gr owing niche of glitzy Chinese chr omeand-plastic buffets, King Buff et offers a s tandard selection of all-you-can-eat dishes. $ KING WOK 291 N. Hubbards Ln., 899-7188. Another of the city’s many tiny shopping-center fast-food Chinese eateries, King W ok offers all the f amiliar standards plus a small lunch buff et. $ LIANG’S CAFÉ 3571 Springhurs t Blv d., 42 5-0188.

Genial host Roland Wong keeps Liang’s in the top tier of local Chinese dining r ooms with both authentic Chinese cuisine and fine ChineseAmerican dishes in this airy, stylish dining room. $ LING LING 10476 Shelbyville Rd., 245-2100. Modern and efficient in its Eas t End shopping c enter location, Ling Ling is a cut abo ve f ast-food Chinese; bett er y et, it adds a f ew V ietnamese dishes to the bill of f are. $ LIU’S GARDEN 11517 Shelb yville Rd., 2 44-9898.

Small but charming, with whit e tablecloths and soft Chinese music, f amily-run Liu’ s gains our approval with fr esh, c ompetent c ookery and courteous, friendly service that makes you feel like you’re visiting a Chinese family at their home. $$ LUCKY HOUSE BUFFET 4030 Taylorsville Rd., 4591188. A fr esh idea on Asian dining, this gener ous buffet serves the menu classics from China as well as some Japanese and American entrées. $$ MANCHU W OK 7900 Shelb yville Rd. ( Oxmoor Shopping Center), 429-8207. $ NEW CHINA 231 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 254-9299. $ ONION RESTAURANT TEA HOUSE 4211 Charlestown Rd., Ne w Alban y, IN, 981-0188. Mas terful Chinese and Japanese cuisine (including magnific ent hotpots, donburi dishes, and w ooden-bucket steamed rice) set this airy restaurant apart from the horde of other Asian spots. $$ ORIENTAL HOUSE 4302 Shelb yville Rd., 89 7-1017.

One of the oldes t continuously operated Chinese restaurants in Louisville, this St. Matthews landmark moves up a not ch under ne w o wners, f eaturing both tr aditional Chinese- American and no w, authentic Cantonese. $ p ORIENTAL STAR 4212 Bishop Ln., 452-9898. A longtime area favorite in this hea vy traffic lunch ar ea.

This es tablishment is quit e good with L o Mein Noodles, and Sweet and Sour Chicken. $ PANDA CHINESE RES TAURANT 9543 US 42., 2286400. $ QUICK WOK 801 W. Broadway, 584-6519. $ RED SUN CHINESE RES TAURANT 499-7788, 3437 Breckinridge Ln. $

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ROYAL GARDEN 5717 Preston Hwy., 969-3788, 6801 Dixie Hw y., 9 37-042 8, 5316 Bar dstown Rd., 4 918228. $ SESAME CHINESE RES TAURANT 9409 Shelbyville Rd., 339-7000. Not jus t another shopping-c enter Chinese r estaurant, this Eas t End eat ery has provided some of the bes t fine-dining Chinese meals I’ve enjoyed in Louisville. $$ p SHAH’S MONGOLIAN GRILL Stonybrook Shopping Center, 4 93-02 34. T hirteenth C entury Mongol warriors used t o turn their s teel shields t o use as frying pans over the campfire, using their swords as spoons. Sahn”s carries their spirit f orward. This allyou-can-eat buffet is fun, and the f ood is fine. $$ p SHANGHAI RESTAURANT 526 S. Fifth St. 568-8833. $ SICHUAN GARDEN 9850 Linn Station Rd., 42 66767. One of m y f avorite Chinese r estaurants in Louisville and another that has s tood the t est of time, Sichuan G arden offers high-end Chinat own style and w ell-made dishes, plus a f ew T hai specialties to spice up the bill of f are. $ TASTY BUFFET 394-9998, 11300 Chamberlain Ln. $ WOK EXPRES S 2 34 W. Br oadway, 583-8988. T his corner spot has housed a v ariety of r estaurants over the years. The latest tenant isn’t the fanciest, but it might be one of the mos t affordable. $ WONTON EXPRES S 3000 Hik es Ln., 45 2 -2 646.

Traditional Chinese f are. F amily-owned-andoperated, this popular neighborhood es tablishment has enjo yed a s teady patr onage f or seventeen years. $ YANG KEE NOODLE 7900 Shelbyville Rd. (Oxmoor Center), 42 6-0800 . T his locally o wned and operated Oxmoor spot is c olorful and s tylish. It offers an intriguing arr ay of appealing noodle and rice dishes fr om all o ver Asia with f ast-food efficiency and pric es happily mat ched b y sitdown restaurant quality and style. $ f YEN CHING 1818 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-3581. $ YOU-CARRYOUT-A 1551 E. Tenth St., Jeff ersonville, IN, 2 88-8313, 82 7 Eas tern Blv d., Clarks ville, IN, 282-8881, 3308 Plaza Dr., 944-9866. $

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while the off er lasts: All-you-can-eat sushi nightly until the karaoke starts at 9 p.m. $$$ p KANSAI J APANESE S TEAKHOUSE 1370 V eterans Pkwy., Clarks ville, IN, 2 18-9 2 38. T raditional Japanese dishes and sushi ar e available here, but like most Japanese St eakhouses, choose the grill tables with their slic e-and-dice Japanese chef show for maximum entertainment. $$$ p KIMIS A SIAN BIS TRO 1915 Blank enbaker Pk wy., 2 36-1915. R estaurateur John Chung is amiable host at this ne w Eas t End v enture, an upscale Asian bistro that blends tr aditional Japanese fare with Chinese and K orean fla vors, including such Pacific Rim dishes as sushi, Chilean sea bas s with sweet mango and t orched salmon in par chment paper. $$ p KOBE S TEAK HOUSE 301 S. Indiana A ve., Jeffersonville IN, 2 80-8500 . Southern Indiana’ s first serious Japanese r estaurant is dr awing crowds with its e xceptional sushi bar, with skilled and friendly chefs who can be relied on to fashion fresh and tasty bites that are just about certain to please. $$$ p MAIDO ESSENTIAL JAPANESE 1758 Frankfort Ave., 894-8775. Not jus t another sushi bar , c ool and stylish Maido is L ouisville’s firs t and only “izakaya”-style r estaurant in the s tyle of K ansai, the r egion surr ounding Japan’ s sec ond city , Osaka. It’s also a sake bar, pouring a good variety of artisanal rice wine. $$ f OSAKA SUSHI BAR 2039 Frankfort Ave., 894-9501.

This bright and cheery Japanese r estaurant and sushi bar is named after Japan’s second largest city.

Local sushi aficionados sa y it ’s los t a s tep sinc e the departure of founding chef James Lae, but it’s still a decent neighborhood Japanese spot. $$ RAW SUSHI L OUNGE 52 0 S. F ourth St., 585-5880 .

Raw mak es good use of hip quart ers in a glitzy renovation of the old Marmaduke Building (next to the Seelbach). Diners ma y choose fr om a br oad selection of c ompetent sushi and Japanese f air, plus fine int ernational seafood dishes at dinner , in a sophisticated lounge atmosphere. $$$ p f e

968-7450, 8605

SAKURA BL UE 4600 Shelb yville Rd., 89 7-3600.

Located in elegant, upscale quart ers in a St. Matthews shopping c enter, Sak ura Blue—dir ect descendant of the old, popular Bonsai—r anks among the city’s top sushi bars. $$

SARI S ARI FILIPINO CUISINE 2 339 Fr ankfort Ave., 894-0585. The city’s sole Filipino eat ery offers a tasty intr oduction t o the Mala yo-Polynesian f are of this Southeas t Asian island nation. Filipino dishes are affordable during the dinner hour and downright cheap on the lunch buff et. $

SAPPORO J APANESE GRILL & SUSHI 1706 Bardstown Rd., 4 79-5550. T rendy, e ven glitzy , with har d-edged indus trial dec or—and mos t important, e xcellent f ood—Sapporo r anks in m y ratings as the city’ s No . 1 spot f or sushi and Japanese fare. $$$ p

YUMMY CHINESE RES TAURANT Preston Hwy. $

BENDOYA SUSHI BAR 2 17 S. Fifth St., 581-0 700.

Adding int ernational flair t o its do wntown neighborhood, Bendo ya Sushi Bar is a genuine , serious sushi bar in a s torefront jus t acr oss the street from the courthouse. $ CAVIAR J APANESE RES TAURANT 416 W .

Muhammad Ali Blv d., 62 5- 3090. (See lis ting under Upscale Casual) FUJI J APANESE S TEAKHOUSE 3576 Springhurs t Blvd., 339-1978, 12 905 Shelb yville Rd., 2 53-00 36.

Part of the fun of sitting at the sushi bar is that you get t o w atch the chef at w ork. P ut in y our order, then sit back, sip y our t ea while the artis t creates edible delights. T his suburban sushi bar does the job well. $$ p ICHIBAN S AMURAI 1510 Lak e Shor e Ct., 4 12 -3339.

This lar ge Japanese-f armhouse building housed Benihana f or man y y ears. Ne w management offers similar delights, with the tr aditional slic eand-dice f ood sho w and good sushi. Bes t deal,

SHOGUN J APANESE S TEAK HOUSE 9026 Taylorsville Rd., 4 99-5700, 4 110 Hampt on Lak e Way, 394-0123. Shogun’s decor is attractive, and quality f ood and servic e mak e it a pleasant dining des tination. It ’s unthr eatening enough t o appeal t o those who find e xotic cuisine “challenging,” but good enough t o satisfy jus t about anyone who craves a Japanese dinner or a bite of sushi. $$$ p TOKYO JAPANESE RESTAURANT 2415C Lime Kiln Ln., 339-7171. It’s appealing, pleasant in atmosphere and friendly in servic e, and mos t important, this East End sushi bar serv es e xcellent Japanese treats, pr epared with car e and flair fr om highquality, impeccably fresh ingredients. $$

ARIRANG 12 567 Shelb yville Rd., 2 44-9838. F or many y ears a hidden je wel in the Buechel ar ea, this fine K orean r estaurant-plus-sushi-bar reopened r ecently in the f ormer quart ers of Oriental Express in the Middletown area. $ p www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Summer 2007 77

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ASIAN BBQ & CUISINE 12 07 E. Mark et St., Jeffersonville, IN, 218-9858. An odd but s trangely intriguing mix of K orean, Chinese and American sports-bar fare is the ne w draw in this spot near the Jeffboat f actory that w as onc e home t o the original Rocky’s Sub Pub. $ KOREANA II 5009 Preston Hwy., 968-9686. One of the city’ s f ew r estaurants de voted entir ely t o authentic Korean fare, Koreana is w orth a special trip f or this ethnic cuisine that off ers a hearty , spicy alternative to the more familiar Chinese. $$

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Vietnamese restaurants, but one the city’s best of any variety, particularly when v alue and pric e are taken into account. Authentic Vietnamese food is made with care and served with pride. $ BASA MODERN VIETNAMESE 2244 Frankfort Ave., 896-1016. Michael and St even T on ar e winning raves f or their sleek and upscale ne w r estaurant with its “fusion” blend of V ietnamese and w orld culinary influences, a mix that in vites comparison with San Fr ancisco’s Slant ed Door and Cincinnati’s Pho Paris. $$ p

LEE’S KOREAN RESTAURANT 1941 Bishop Ln., 4569714. T his little spot has been a secr et sinc e the ’70s, and it jus t k eeps on going. W alk int o what looks lik e a diner in an offic e building, but push past the c ounter t o the back r oom, wher e y ou’ll find gener ous heaps of r eally authentic K orean food for next to nothing. $$

CAFÉ MIMOS A 12 16 Bar dstown Rd., 458-2 2 33.

Dating back t o the ‘80s as the city’ s first serious restaurant in the Fr ench-Vietnamese tradition, its current management s till offers a short selection of good Vietnamese food plus Chinese-American fare, as w ell as one of the city’ s more interesting sushi bars. $ p

PINK DOOR NOODLES & TEA L OUNGE 2222 Dundee Rd., 2 95-2 441. T his ne w spot r einvents the one-time home of Gibb’ s BBQ in an edgy , high-tech Japanese s tyle, c omplete with a liv e video w all. L ook f or light er Asian f are, noodle dishes and sushi, along with a wide variety of teas, sakes and techno-Japanese cocktails. $ p

LEMONGRASS CAFÉ 1019 Bardstown Rd., 238-3981, 11606 Shelb yville Rd., 2 44-7110, 106 F airfax A ve., 893-7757. L emongrass Café off ers an appealing blend of V ietnamese, T hai and Chinese f are in a simple setting that tr anscends an ob viously lo w budget with style and grace. $

MAI’S THAI RES TAURANT 1411 E. T enth St., Jeffersonville, IN, 282-0198. With a broad range of well-prepared and authentic T hai dishes, Mai’ s is the eat ery t o beat among the metr o ar ea’s T hai restaurants. For both authenticity and quality , it ’s right up there with the top Thai places I’ve enjoyed in New York, San Francisco and Seattle. $ SALA THAI 9114 T aylorsville Rd. (St ony Br ook Shopping Center), 493-3944. Fine and fancy, Sala Thai off ers L ouisville an upscale T hai alt ernative, presenting ethnic f are in a s tylish setting that places it among the bes t, and c ertainly the mos t upscale, of the city’s cadre of Thai eateries. $$ p SIMPLY THAI 318 W allace A ve., 899-96 70. Owner Mahn Saing is Burmese; his wif e, a clas sically trained chef , is T hai. T hey’ve beautifully made over this little St. Matthews spot, offering a small menu of tr aditional Thai dishes, w ell-made sushi and a f ew upscale T hai-style “fusion” dinner items. $ f THAI CAFÉ 2 2 2 6 Holida y Manor , 42 5-4815. Y ou’ll find this small café tuck ed int o a c orner of the “Holiday Manor W alk.” Owner Cha vantee Sno w and her f amily off er a small but w ell-prepared selection of authentic T hai dishes at v ery reasonable prices. $ THAI SIAM 3002 Bar dstown Rd., 458-68 71.

Louisville’s first Thai restaurant, this Gardiner Lane spot has built a lo yal audienc e o ver the y ears, perhaps r esponding t o its r egular visit ors’ preferences with f ood that ’s a bit on the tame side for Thai. $$ THAI SMILE 5 5800 Preston Hwy., 961-9018. The “5” represents the number of r estaurants in this Frankfort-based mini-chain, which has r estaurants in K entucky, Tennessee and Indiana. T he “Smile” represents my reaction to its simple but very well prepared T hai f are. Don’t ask f or the fiv e-chilepepper heat unless you really mean it! $ THAI TASTE 1977 Br ownsboro Rd., 89 7-7682 . T he owner-host of this friendly , casual spot in Crescent Hill had a r estaurant in Bangk ok before moving t o L ouisville, and his e xperience sho ws.

The w armth of his w elcome—and the quality of the food—make Thai Taste special. $

ANNIE CAFÉ 308 W. Woodlawn, 36 3-4847. Annie Café r anks not jus t as one of m y f avorite 78 Summer 2007 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

PHO BINH MINH 6709 Str awberry Ln., 3 75-92 49.

Tiny and lo vably c ozy, this six -table South End spot is true authentic V ietnamese, and so are the proprietors. T here’s some language barrier , but the owners are so friendly, and the food so good, that it’s worth the effort if you love real Asian fare and inexpensive prices. $ VIETNAM KIT CHEN 5339 Mitscher A ve., 36 3-5154.

This little South End s torefront is w ell w orth seeking out. T he chef goes be yond the or dinary, preparing authentic Vietnamese dishes of unusual subtlety and flavor. I have yet to be disappointed with the quality of the f ood or service. $ ZEN GARDEN 2 2 40 Fr ankfort A ve., 895-9114. A vegetarian restaurant must pass one simple t est: at the end of the meal, I mus t not miss meat. Zen Garden pas ses this t est with flying w ok and chopsticks. $ f

BEHAR CAFÉ 5600 National T urnpike, 368-5658.

This shopping-c enter s torefront has bec ome a popular aft er-work gathering spot f or the city’ s growing c ommunity of immigr ants fr om Bosnia, for whom it ’s a c omfortable place to get a drink, a sausage, and feel at home. $ BOSAN-MAK 382 5 Old Bar dstown Rd., 456- 1919.

Friendly and e xceptionally hospitable , f amilyowned BosnaMak c elebrates the heritage of the owners and chefs in Bosnia and Macedonia in the Balkans and picks up a f ew culinary additions from their time in German y. $ f DJULI 5312 S. T hird St., 368-5199 . Bosnian f are is the specialty in this tin y spot in the incr easingly international culinary smor gasbord at Ir oquois Manor shopping center. Bosnian immigrants appear to be the primary clientele, but everyone’s welcome to discover this hearty Yugoslavian cuisine. $

ERIKA’S GERMAN RESTAURANT 9301 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy. 4 99-882 2 . F or a city with a s trong German heritage, L ouisville is w oefully short on authentic German r estaurants, but this genuinely Germanic eatery attracts hungry crowds to Hurstbourne. Take care not to miss its former fast-food quarters just off I-64 local access ramp. $$ GASTHAUS 4812 Brownsboro Center, 899-7177. The Greipel f amily c omes s traight fr om Ba varia t o

Eastern Louisville with Gasthaus, a destination for local lovers of Germanic f are. T he setting has as authentic a f eeling as the hearty and delicious German dishes here. $$$

BRENDAN’S 392 1 Shelb yville Rd., 895- 12 12 . Owners Tom O’Shea (also of Flannigan’ s and O’Shea’ s in the Highlands) has done a gr eat job of endo wing this old St. Matthe ws saloon with an upscale f eel, gourmet-style dining options and a v ery popular bar. $$ p e IRISH ROVER 2319 Frankfort Ave., 899-3544, 117 E. Main St, LaGr ange, 2 2 2 -2 2 86. A w arm and welcoming pub with an authentic Irish accent, this is a delightful plac e for a tall glas s of Guinnes s, a snack and a bit of Irish music. I r ecommend the fish and chips. $ p f MOLLY MAL ONE’S 933 Baxt er A ve., 4 73-12 2 2 . A carefully c onstructed r eplica of a modern urban Irish pub, Molly Malone’s is worthy addition to the city’s eating and drinking sc ene, as authentically Irish as the Wearin’ o’ the Green. $$ p f e O’SHEA’S TRADITIONAL IRISH PUB 956 Baxt er Ave., 589-7373. A steady schedule of music, and an as sortment of beers ma y be tr aditionally Irish, but the food here is mainstream American pub grub , from the chees y fries t o the Rueben sandwich. $$ p f e SHENANIGAN’S IRISH GRILL 1611 Norris Pl., 4543919. Not just a neighborhood tavern (although it’s a fine neighborhood ta vern), Irish-ac cented Shenanigan’s goes an extra step with an estimable selection of memorable burgers. $ p f e

AMERIGO 1871 S. Hurs tbourne Pk wy., 42 6-4040 .

Chef Anthony Lorie, once a chef at RAW and later a co-owner of Bluegr ass Bistro in the Derb y City Antique Mall, no w tak es the helm of this ne w Italian-style East End spot, first Louisville outpost of a small but growing Nashville-based chain that has won applause for quality. $$$ p f AMICI´ 316 Ormsb y A ve., 6 37-3167. Restaurateurs Sharon and Sc ott Risinger hos t this in viting Italian-style r estaurant that brings a t ouch of Tuscany to this attractive and historic Old Louisville building. $$ p f ANGELINA’S CAFÉ 1701 UPS Dr ., 32 6-5555. Y ou don’t ha ve t o be an Italian gr andfather t o pla y bocce, now that ther e are several venues around town f or this amiable game . T he six -court suburban Gotcha Bocce, run by sportscaster Bob Valvano, also houses this casual all-Italian eat ery, with dishes based on Bob’s family recipes. $ BUCA DI BEPPO 2 051 S. Hurs tbourne Pk wy., 4 932426. Buca di Beppo’s recipe has all the necessary ingredients: huge portions of excellent food served with flair and the Buca sc ene is fun, a c onscious parody of the e xuberant dec or of f amily ItalianAmerican restaurants of the 1950s. $$ p CARRABBA’S ITALIAN GRILL 617 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 412-2218. Carrabba’s isn’t y our ordinary suburban shopping-center fr anchise eat ery. T his plac e dramatically exceeds expectations. From warmed bread dishes with quality oliv e oil t o firs t-rate Italian-American fare at reasonable prices. $$ p f COME BACK INN 909 Swan St., 627-1777, 415 Spring St., Jeff ersonville IN, 2 85- 1777. W ith both its branches located in urban neighborhoods, C ome Back Inn looks pr etty much lik e an y other neighborhood saloon. But unlik e mos t L ouisville neighborhood saloons, this one houses a f amily Italian spot that w ouldn’t be out of plac e in Chicago or Brooklyn. $ p

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DAVINCI BY LENTINI’S 10430 Shelbyville Rd., 3866783. This East End branch of the popular ItalianAmerican f avorite is no w open in the old Buckhead Mountain Grill spac e near Middlet own. $$$ p f FERD GRISANTI 10212 Taylorsville Rd., 267-0050. An East End landmark f or 30 y ears, Ferd Grisanti’s is as comfortable as a close friend’ s home. Friendly and unpr etentious hospitality , the quiet but not staid atmospher e, and the fine Italian f ood prompts the c omment, “T hey do e verything so well, and they make it look so easy.” $$$ p LA GALL O ROS SO BIS TRO 132 5 Bar dstown Rd., 473-0015. This small but attractive Highlands spot in the Shoppes on the Alle y, f ormerly home t o Butterfly G arden (which mo ved nearb y), is no w back in busines s with a casual Italian and Continental theme. $$ f LENTINI’S 1543 Bardstown Rd., 4 79-0607. This 45year-old L ouisville f avorite has had its ups and downs sinc e “Sonn y” L entini retired and sold the business in 2001, but it ’s up now, open again with new owners and a skilled Italian chef. Redecorated in classy but comfortable style, its authentic Italian menu is drawing raves $$$ p f LUIGI’S 702 W. Main St., 589-0005. If y ou think one pizza is pretty much like another, you may not have sampled Ne w Y ork City -style pizza, a tr eat that you’ll find on jus t about e very s treet c orner ther e, but only Luigi’s offers in its authentic form here. $ MARTINI ITALIAN BISTRO 4021 Summit Plaza Dr., 3949797. T he American-ac cented Italian f are at this Ohio-based chain might be a little closer to Bayonne, New Jersey than Florence, but it ’s good, featuring a short but div erse selection of hearty pas tas, pizzas and Italian-style entrées. Martini’s quality has quickly built a loyal crowd of regulars. $$ p f MELILLO’S 82 9 E. Mark et St., 540-99 75. Adjacent t o the locally o wned and oper ated Felice Vineyards on Eas t Mark et, Melillo’ s off ers hearty and delicious home-s tyle Italian- American f are—and you can enjoy it with a glas s of vino. $ p f OLD SPAGHETTI FACTORY 235 W. Market St., 5811070. One of the original v entures of this national firm. Bright and nois y, it offers well-made if basic Italian family fare and dishes it out for surprisingly low prices. $$ p THE OLIVE GARDEN 1320 Hurstbourne Pkwy., 3397190, 9 730 V on Allmen Ct., 42 5- 3607, 12 30 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 218-8304. The top property of the Orlando-based Dar den chain, Olive G arden no w oper ates mor e than 500 properties and bills itself as the leading Italian restaurant in the casual dining indus try. Hearty pastas of all shapes and sauc es, appetizers and combo platters all carry the Italian theme . $$ p PESTO’S IT ALIAN RES TAURANT 566 S. Fifth St., 584-0567. Offic es f or blocks ar ound empty int o this bus tling Italian eat ery f or w eekday lunches featuring hearty platt ers of lasagna, z esty salads, red wine and ic ed tea. On Satur days, the kit chen switches over to a special Persian menu. $ PORCINI 2 730 Fr ankfort A ve., 894-8686. An expanded dining room and a stylish alfresco patio facing busy Frankfort Ave. make Porcini’s an even more popular des tination, a plac e t o see and be seen—and, while y ou’re at it, enjo y a drink and a decent Italian-American dinner. $$$ p PRIMO 445 E. Market St., 583-1808. Restaurateur Bim Deitrich has been a leader in the city’ s restaurant scene since the 1970s, and this eff ort may be his best y et. W ell-crafted Italian specialties r ange from pizzas and pasta to steak Florentine, with a fine, all-Italian wine lis t t o go along; all serv ed with panache in sleek quart ers dominat ed b y a towering white-tile pizza oven. $$$ p f

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PUCCINI’S SMILING TEETH 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 721-0170. A small but growing pizza chain based in Indianapolis opens its firs t Louisville property in the Shelb yville R oad Plaza spac e that onc e housed P ayless shoes. T hin pizza b y the slic e and other Italian- American dishes ar e served in an attractive setting that's a cut above fast food. $$ RAY PARRELLA’S ITALIAN CUISINE 2311 Frankfort Ave., 899-55 75. Old-f ashioned Italian- American family fare is served up with a w arm and casual welcome at Ray Parella’s, the latest venture of a family that ’s been pleasing locals f or a generation. $ f ROCKY’S IT ALIAN GRILL 715 W . Riv erside Dr ., Jeffersonville IN, 2 82 - 3844, 10 2 06 W estport Rd., 339-0808. Now celebrating their 30th anniv ersary, this longtime f avorite earns its popularity with fine pizzas, a good selection of bottled beers and a select choic e of Italian- American entrées, with a great vie w of the city fr om the Jeff ersonville riverside location. $ p f ROMANO’S MA CARONI GRILL 401 S. Hurs tbourne Pkwy., 42 3-9 2 2 0. T he Italian-s tyle menu at this casual, Dallas-based f amily chain includes appetizers, salads, pastas, veal and desserts. Chefs entertain while creating wood-fired pizzas. $$ p SAVINO’S ITALIAN FOOD 8533 Terry Rd., 933-1080. $ SPAGHETTI SHOP 4657 Out er L oop, 96 9-5545, 2 669 Charles town Rd., Ne w Alban y, IN, 9445400. Bak ed pas ta dishes, subs, salads and appetizers are prepared while you wait. $ STEVE-O’S IT ALIAN KIT CHEN 42 05 W . Hw y. 146, LaGrange, KY, 222-0300. Outstanding pizzas and fine family-style Italian-American dishes make this casual eatery just off I-71 at Buckner w ell worth a special trip out from the city. $ STRATTO’S 318 W. Lewis & Clark Pk wy., Clarksville, IN, 945- 3496. Sam Anderson—kno wn t o locals from his Sam’s Food & Spirits—offers a full dinner menu with ac cents from all Italy’ s regions, plus a good wine lis t t o mat ch. Str atto’s e xpanded 140-seat patio is a popular plac e on summer evenings. $$ p f e VOLARE 2300 Frankfort Ave., 894-4446. The name evokes Sinatr a, pas ta with t omato sauc e and candles in Chianti bottles, but stylish Volare kicks that image up a not ch. Chef Dallas McG arity and host Majid Ghavami are working hard to position Volare as the city’ s t op spot f or sua ve Italian dining. $$$ p f

DE LA T ORRE’S 1606 Bar dstown Rd., 456-4 955.

From C entral Spain, authentic Cas tilian f ood ranging from tapas t o a memor able paella mak e this Highlands s tandby a unique e xperience reminiscent of dining on a squar e in Madrid. $$$ LA BODEGA 1604 Bar dstown Rd., 456-4 955. Ne xtdoor t o the e xcellent De La T orre’s Spanish restaurant, La Bodega off ers diners the city’s most authentic Spanish-s tyle tapas bar , f eaturing the small bites originally invented in the out door cafés of Jerez. $$ p f

Steaks sear ed on authentic parrillada char coal grills ar e a primary dr aw, but ther e’s e xcellent chicken, seafood and much more. $$ p f

INDIA PALACE 9424 Shelbyville Rd., 394-0490. This longtime local Indian r estaurant, originally on Bardstown R oad and no w housed in this e xoticlooking East End building that has housed a s tring of well-known eateries, is a contender for the city’s top Indian spot. T he expansive lunch buffet is well handled and a particularly good v alue. $$ f KASHMIR INDIAN RES TAURANT 12 85 Bar dstown Rd., 4 73-8765. One of the city’ s mos t popular Indian restaurants, Kashmir is casual, neither posh nor expensive, and it produces an extensive menu of seemingly authentic Indian f are. $$ f SHALIMAR INDIAN RES TAURANT 182 0 S. Hurstbourne Pk wy., 4 93-8899. Modern and sleek in appearance, modest in price, this restaurant has become the patriar ch of local Indian r estaurants.

With a substantial lunch buffet and a full r ange of dinner items, it has built a lo yal clientele. $ p

AL WATA N 3713 Klondik e Ln., 454-4406. Clas sic Arabic dishes home-cooked by friendly people in a cozy environment. That’s the recipe that makes Al Watan a des tination f or lo vers of fine Middle Eastern fare. $ CAFÉ 360 1582 Bar dstown Rd., 4 73-8694. T he latest in a long series of eat eries in this pleasant Highland’s building off ers an eclectic and international menu, with Southern fried catfish and Indian lamb biry ani in immediat e juxtaposition. You can get it all, diner-s tyle, jus t about 24/7. $ p f GRAPE LEAF 2 2 17 Fr ankfort A ve., 89 7-1774. Y et another Middle Eas tern eat ery, y et another good ine xpensive sour ce of f ood on Fr ankfort Avenue. $ f JERUSALEM MEDITERRANEAN CAFÉ 1907 S. Third St., 6 35-6767. L ocated jus t off the University of L ouisville’s Belknap Campus, Jerusalem Café speaks Middle Eas tern with a Palestinian ac cent and v ends e xceptionally fine ethnic fare. It adds an exotic hint of the Levant to the storefront space that used to house a branch of City Café. $ f MARRAKECH 1001 Bardstown Rd., 454-4407. This tiny new Highlands spot is strategically situated to offer quick and aff ordable sustenance along the Bar dstown-Baxter ent ertainment s trip. In addition t o the usual Middle Eas tern goodies, look f or a f ew intriguing Mor occan dishes including occasional tagines. $ OMAR’S GYRO 969 Baxter Ave., 454-4888. $ PITA DELIGHT S 1616 Grins tead Dr., 56 9-112 2 . T his Near Eas tern eat ery in the Highlands off ers a splendid mix of gyr os, f elafel and other pitabased goodies. $ f

MOJITO TAPAS RES TAURANT 2 2 31 Holida y Manor Shopping C enter, 42 5-094 9. Gift ed y oung chef Fernando Martine z (also of Ha vana Rumba) i s drawing crowds to the East End hot spot with an international array of Spanish inspired small plates (“tapas”), imposing paella and libations. $ p f

SAFFRON’S 131 W . Mark et St., 584- 7800. Owner Majid Ghavami has ele vated this Persian (Ir anian) restaurant f ar be yond a mer e ethnic eat ery.

Stylish dec or, an intriguingly e xotic menu, and a level of car eful, pr ofessional servic e w orthy of a white-tablecloth dining room. Saffron’s has added a satellite operation, SAFFRON’S BUFFET, 558 S. Fifth St., 58 7-8679, where you can enjo y Persian delicacies on a quick, aff ordable all- you-can-eat lunch-only buffet. $$$ p

PALERMO VIEJO 1359 Bar dstown Rd., 456-646 1.

This eatery’s name may sound Italian, but is, in fact, Louisville’s only sour ce of Ar gentinian cuisine .

SAFIER MEDITERRANEAN DELI 641 S. F ourth St., 585-112 5. You can get s tandard American f are at this w elcoming do wntown quick -eats spot, but

MAYAN CAFÉ 813 E. Mark et St., 566-0651. (See listing under Mexican)

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who’d do that when y ou can enjo y such appetizing Arabian delights as hummus, mutabal, falafels and the gyros-like (only better) shawarma beef-on-pita sandwich. $ f SAHARA CAFÉ 3701 L exington Rd., 895- 1338.

Gyros, f alafels and other f amiliar Middle Eas tern dishes ar e w ell pr esented in this small, ne w restaurant in a new St. Matthews retail block. $ f SHIRAZ MEDITERRANEAN GRILL 2 011 Fr ankfort Ave., 891-8854. Offers some of the most authentic Persian (Ir anian) c ooking y ou’ll find an ywhere, Shiraz has grown out of its tiny original location to occupy a bright and colorful storefront in the new Clifton Lofts complex; it s till shines with its chargrilled k ebabs, fine pitas and cr acker-like la vash bread and adds a wider v ariety of Persian delights. $

CAJUN KITCHEN 4645 Outer Loop, 964-5200. $ J. GUMBO’S 2 109 Fr ankfort A ve., 896-4046, 531 Lyndon Ln., 425-0096, 4th Street Live, 589-9245, 3115 S. Sec ond St., 36 3-8888, 666 1 Dixie Hw y., 995-8805. Rapidly e xpanding in its bid t o gr ow into a r egional chain, this e xcellent, aff ordable string of Cajun eateries has changed its corporate name (from Gumbo A Go-Go) to avoid trademark conflicts with a similarly named chain. $ f JOE’S OK BAYOU 9874 Linn Station Rd., 426- 1320, 4308 Charles town Rd., Ne w Alban y, IN, 9482 080. Fine , filling and authentic L ouisiana-style fare is the dr aw at Joe’ s. A length y menu and bayou fishing-shack dec or sho wcases authentic Cajun and Creole chow. $$ p

HAVANA RUMBA 4115 Oechsli Ave., 897-1959 A true taste of Old Ha vana. Hos ts F ernando & Chris tina Martinez and Mar cos L orenzo pr eside o ver this bright, in viting Cuban r estaurant, r ecently renovated t o double its dining spac e and add a hopping mojit o bar. Bountiful servings of Cuban fare as good as I’ve enjoyed in Key West or Miami have earned Ha vana Rumba a plac e on m y short list of local f avorites. No w with an e xpanded menu, there is even more to love. $ p f TASTE OF J AMAICA 2 017 Br ownsboro Rd., 8961055. This stylish space in Clifton has a new ethnic flavor, thanks to co-owner Warren Glave, who has returned authentic Jamaican cuisine t o a city t oo long starved for a taste of jerk chicken, curry goat and other such Caribbean goodies. $

BAZO’S FRESH MEXICAN GRILL 323 Wallace Ave., 899-9600. Baz o’s Fr esh Me xican Grill is an inexpensive, casual spot where you’ll find the best fish tacos this side of San Diego as the highlight of its simple fast-food Mexican fare. $ f CANCUN MEXICAN RES TAURANT 9904 Linn Station Rd., 327-0890. $ e DON PABLOS MEXICAN KIT CHEN 940 E. L ewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 284-1071. Born in North Texas and no w based in A tlanta, this Me xicanAmerican chain, off ers full bar servic e and a variety of dishes that r ange fr om sizzling f ajitas with portabello mushr oom, beef or chick en t o crisp salads tossed in a fajita shell. $$ p EL CAPORAL 7319 Pr eston Hw y., 96 9-9693, 2 2 09 Meadow Dr ., 4 73-7840, 1901 Blank enbaker Pk wy., 515 E. High way 131, Clarks ville, IN, 2 82 - 7174.

Louisville’s growing Mexican-American community has f ostered a happ y tr end: e xcellent, authentic

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Mexican food. El Caporal bridges the gap between the Latino and Anglo communities. $ p EL MUNDO 2 345 Fr ankfort A ve., 899-99 30. T his crowded, noisy little Cr escent Hill s torefront offers creative r enditions of Me xican r egional specialties that mak e mos t diners w ant t o y ell “Olé!” T he setting ma y lack the tr endy flair of Rick Ba yless’s Frontera Grill in Chicago , but the f are mines a similar vein and does so nearly as w ell. $ p f EL NOP AL 9473 W estport Rd., 32 7-6551, 11336 Preston Hwy., 961-9851, 10500 Watterson Tr., 2665956, 5444 Ne w Cut Rd., 380-844 7, 4214 Out er Loop, 968-2566, 12937 Shelbyville Rd., 253-6802, 652 1 P aramount P ark Dr ., 968-9836, 12 600 Taylorsville Rd., 2 40-602 2 . As sociated with the same family that runs the smaller El Nopalit o, (or “the little cactus”), El Nopal (“ the cactus”) off ers similar delicious, authentic and ine xpensive Mexican f are in some what lar ger and mor e comfortable surroundings. $ p f EL NOP ALITO 402 8 T aylorsville Rd., 458- 72 78, 6300 Bardstown Rd., 231-42 49, 2319 Brownsboro Rd., 89 3-9880. T his modes t little eat ery used t o be a Taco Bell, but y ou’ll never find c omidas like this at the Bell! Run b y a f amily from Mexico, it ’s truly authentic and delicious. $ p f EL PASO 700 Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville, IN, 2 800032. Several Mexican restaurants have filled this expansive space in the Jeffersonville Ramada Inn; now El P aso offers a Tex-Mex option jus t off the riverfront. $ p f EL REY MEXICAN RES TAURANT 2 918 Hik es Ln., 454-652 0. Although it ’s more Mexican-American than har d-core ethnic Me xican, El R ey earns m y recommendation for tasty fare, cordial service in a pleasant f ast-Mexican-food en vironment, and affordable prices. $ f EL RODEO MEXICAN RES TAURANT 9070 Dixie Hwy., 995-8722. At El Rodeo, you’ll find a blend of Tex-Mex and other Latin American clas sics fr om salty margaritas to sweet sopapillas. $$ EL TARASCO 6100 Cr estwood Station, 2 41-2 32 0, 542 5 Ne w Cut Rd., 368-562 8, 110 F airfax A ve., 895-8010, 9901 LaGr ange Rd., 32 6-9 373, 4 12 S. First A ve., LaGr ange, K Y, 2 2 5-5995. A dd El Tarasco t o the happ y ne w genr e of r estaurants run b y Latinos and off ering authentic Me xican food and atmospher e, but that r each out t o Anglos and mak e it eas y t o enjo y a South-ofthe-Border culinary adv enture without compromise. $ EL TORO MEXICAN RESTAURANT 1810 Hurstbourne Parkway, 4 91-72 72 . One of the t op Me xican restaurants in the metro, El Toro earns my recommendation f or f ood, servic e and en vironment.

Tex-Mex dishes ar e fine , but sa ve r oom f or the authentic Mexican seafood specialties. $ p f ERNESTO’S 10602 Shelb yville Rd., 2 44-8889, 62 01 Dutchmans Ln., 89 3-92 97, 77 07 Pr eston Hw y., 962-5380, 4632A S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 671-5291.

One of the firs t of the mor e authentic locally owned Me xican r estaurant gr oups, Ernes to’s remains c onsistently r eliable. Fr om the crisp y home-fried chips t o filling Mexican main c ourses and tas ty des serts, it ’s a w orthy des tination f or good Me xican f ood and e xcellent v alue in an enjoyable atmosphere. $ p f e FIESTA TIME MEXICAN GRILL Dr., 425-9144. $ p

1132 0 Maple Br ook

KY T ACO 6911 Shepher dsville Rd., 962 -85 2 6.

Traditional Mexican fare from the Ramirez family. $ LA BAMBA 1237 Bardstown Rd., 451-1418. La Bamba boasts of its “burritos as big as your head.” It may be L ouisville’s mos t s tartling case of an eat ery that is more than it appears t o be, and that goes

for both quality and quantity. Franchised and fastfoodish, it pleasantly surprises with genuine Mexican fare and Latino flair. $ LA HERRADURA 615 Eas tern Blv d., Clarks ville, IN., 2 80-8650. Is it pos sible t o enjo y truly authentic tacqueria cuisine when the management speaks mostly Spanish and y ou speak only English ?

These friendly f olks mak e it simple: a handy bilingual menu and a smiling s taff make you feel at home.$ LA MONARCA 6501 Shepherdsville Rd., 969-7938. $ LA PERLA DEL P ACIFICO 2 840 Goose Cr eek Rd., 339-7670. Y ou ma y w ant t o bring a Spanish phrase book to this East End spot, where English is sometimes t entative. It ’s w orth the eff ort though, f or e xcellent authentic Me xican seaf ood and fish dishes that go w ell be yond taqueria status. $$ LA ROSIT A T AQUERIA 1515 E. Mark et St., Ne w Albany, IN, 944- 362 0. One of m y f avorite authentic Mexican eateries in the metr o. Offering indoor and out door seating t o enjo y a short, affordable menu of firs t-rate Puebla-s tyle tac os and other excellent Mexican dishes. $ f LA TAPATIA RESTAURANT 8106 Preston Hwy., 9619153. One of the mos t authentic ethnic Me xican restaurants in Louisville, this little storefront offers memorable tacos and burritos and more. $ p LOLITA’S TACOS 42 2 2 Poplar L evel Rd., 459-4356.

This tiny place may look like a fast-food joint, but the f ood is about as authentic Me xican as y ou’ll find. Crisp or soft tac os and burrit os the siz e of paper-towel r olls turn a meal her e int o a r eal bargain. $ f LOS AZTECAS 530 W. Main St., 561-8535, 1107 Herr Ln., 42 6- 3994, 9606 T aylorsville Rd., 2 9 7-8003, 92 07 U .S. Hw y 42 , 2 2 8-2 450. A uthentic Mexican cuisine has bec ome a viable option in L ouisville, thanks to a gr owing immigrant community. With fresh bar and blender off erings, cr eative appetizers and c omfortable seating, L os Aztecas is one of the best, with tasty Mexican dishes good enough to lure us back again and again. $ p LOS CHUBA SCOS 10000 Linn Station Rd., 42 09930. $ p f LOS INDIOS RES TAURANTE MEXICANO 2743 Charlestown Rd., Ne w Alban y, IN, 94 1-9770, 7 30 Highlander Point Dr., Floyds Knobs, IN, 9 23-2929.

“Why ha ve T ex-Mex when y ou can ha ve Me xMex?” is asked in fun on the serv ers’ T-shirts. This eatery is w ell worth the trip t o Southern Indiana for high-quality Mexican dishes. $ p MAYAN CAFÉ 813 E. Mark et St., 566-0651. Chef Bruce Ucán earned f our-star pr aise f or y ears with his cr eative tak e on Ma yan (Yucatan/Guatemala) cuisine at Ma yan Gyps y.

Now, aft er a brief closing, he’ s back in smaller quarters but the same inspiring cuisine . $$ MEXICAN FIES TA 5414 Bar dstown Rd., 7 62 -0840, 4507 Bardstown Rd., 491-2922 $ MEXICO TIPIC O RES TAURANT 6517 Dixie Hw y., 933-9523, 12401 Shelbyville Rd., 645-8778. One of the r egion’s firs t authentic Me xican eat eries, Mexico T ipico has built a lo yal f ollowing in f or good Me xican f ood and friendly , fully bilingual service; now it reaches the East End with a brandnew property in the Middletown area. $ p e PUERTO V ALLARTA 42 14 Charles town Rd., Ne w Albany, IN, 945- 3588, 12 5 Quart ermaster Ct., Jeffersonville, IN, 288-2022. $$ p QDOBA MEXICAN GRILL 1500 Bardstown Rd., 4543380, 9 70 Br eckinridge Ln., 7 2 1-8100, 4059 Summit Plaza Driv e, 42 9-5151, 100 Da ventry Ln., 412 -62 02 , 860 2 Citadel W ay, 4 93-9606, 30 2 1 Poplar Level Rd., 637-5405, 4302 Charlestown Rd., New Alban y IN, 94 1-9654. T his chain oper ation

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boasts seven local outlets plus mor e in L exington and Frankfort. Fast-foodish in style, Qdoba edges out its c ompetitors on the basis of v ariety and interesting salsas, plus sizable portions at a pric e you can afford. $ f ROSTICERIA LUNA 5213B Preston Hwy., 962-8898.

Tiny and cluttered and very friendly, this little spot on Pr eston looks lik e another tac queria but the specialty, Me xican-style r oasted chick en, tak es it to another le vel, juicy and suc culent and r oasted golden br own. Chick en simply doesn’t get an y better than this. $

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TUMBLEWEED SOUTHWES T GRILL (17 locations ).

Tumbleweed, which s tarted as a humble Me xican restaurant in Ne w Alban y, e ventually came t o dominate L ouisville’s Tex-Mex niche with c olossal margaritas, gigantic burrit os and spicy chili c on queso. But what s tarted as a sideline , mesquit e grilled steaks, chops, and chicken, has become the main dr aw. T hese da ys, diners ar e mor e lik ely t o dig int o a grilled s teak and bak ed potat o than a burrito. With its Southwest focus, large and varied menu and added wine lis t, “The Weed” still draws diners in droves. $$ p f

RUBEN’S MEXICAN RES TAURANT 1370 V eterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN. 258-0417. $$ p SANTA FE GRILL 3000 S. T hird St., 6 34-3722. This tiny eat ery in a c entury-old r ed-brick South End storefront near Chur chill Do wns ne ver f ails t o satisfy with genuine Me xican tac os and other simple fare at pric es that will lea ve you plenty of change for an exacta bet at the races. $ SENOR IGUANA’S 1415 Broadway St., Clarksville, IN, 2 80-8555. One Me xican chain r estaurant, Habanero's, mo ves out (w e'll mis s the guacamole), another mo ves in, and all's w ell f or those who lo ve Mexican food in a casual sportsbar atmosphere. $ f p SOL AZTECA S 2 42 7 Bar dstown R oad, 459- 7776.

Saul Garcia, who’s been associated with the local chain of L os Aztecas eateries and the short-liv ed Olmeca’s, brings his br and of authentic Me xican fare t o this Douglas s L oop location. F ans of L os Aztecas will find f amiliar food and mood her e in the same affordable price ranges. $ p TACO TICO 5925 Terry Rd., 44 9-9888. Founded in Wichita in 1962 , the same y ear as T aco Bell w as born in Southern Calif ornia, T he Taco Tico chain has been gone fr om L ouisville f or mor e than a decade. Its happ y r eturn has been dr awing remarkable cr owds out t o this South west Louisville location. Us, too. $ TACQUERIA LA MEXICANA 62 01 Pr eston Hw y., 969-4449. T he tac os ar e fine at this tin y storefront, ne xt door t o a Latino gr ocery s tore.

This is seriously ethnic s tuff, but Anglos ar e thoroughly w elcome, the s taff is bilingual, and they will happily pr ovide a menu with all the English translations written in. $ TEQUILA MEXICAN RES TAURANT 7803 Old T hird Street Rd., 368-3591. $

BALLYHOO BAJA GRILL 1702 Bardstown Rd., 4522559. Another entry in the fr esh-burrito concept, this new Highlands spot is gaining quick attention, with a Baja-s tyle f ast menu lead b y a filling fish taco that may be the best in town. First Louisville outpost of Nash ville’s popular Chili Burrit o Co., it probably won’t be the last. $ f MOE’S SOUTHWES T GRILL 2 001 S. Hurs tbourne Pkwy., 491-1800, 1001 Br eckinridge Ln., 89 3-6637, 12 001 Shelb yville Rd., 2 45-62 50, 10 2 0 V eterans Pkwy., Clarks ville, IN, (812 ) 2 88-66 37. T he f ood may be mor e f ast-food Me xican-American than authentic South-of-the-Bor der f are, but it is freshly made from quality ingredients and comes in oversize portions, and that’s not a bad thing. $ ON THE BORDER 10601 Fischer P ark Dr., 412-2461.

A c ontemporary spin on tr aditional f avorites offers a range of delights from the Ultimate Fajita to mar garitas in a setting that emulat es Old Mexico décor. $$ p f SALSARITA’S FRESH CANTINA 2 85 N. Hubbar ds Ln., 89 7-532 3. Another entry in the hot “Fr esh Mexican” niche that f eatures gigantic burrit os made t o or der. Its c olorful fr ee-standing building houses a sit-in restaurant and an inviting bar. $ f p

ATOMIC SAUCER 1000 E. Oak St., 6 37-5399. $ BEAN S TREET CAFÉ 101 Laf ollette Station, Flo yds Knobs, IN, 9 23-1404, 3003 Charlestown Rd., Ne w Albany, IN, 944-6262. Bean Str eet introduced the Sunny Side to the joys of serious espresso. Like all good c offee shops, the y’re not jus t eat eries, but cultural hangouts. $ f BUFFALO MADISON C OFFEE C OMPANY 701 Eastern Blv d., Clarks ville, IN, 2 18-8559 , I US Campus Libr ary, 94 1-2 699. These locally o wned coffee shops ar e fine plac es t o enjo y a c offee drink and a pastry. $ f CAFFE CLASSICO 2144 Frankfort Ave., 894-9689. $ f CLEO’S C OFFEE AND MORE Caesars Indiana Casino, Elizabeth, IN, 888-766-2648. $ COFFEE CROSSING 4212 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 981-2633, 13825 English Villa Dr., 254-7040. $ COFFEE POT CAFÉ 234 E. Gray St. (Medical Tower South), 584-5282 $ f COFFEE TREAT CAFÉ 429 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 582-2408 $ DAY’S ESPRES SO AND C OFFEE BAR 1420 Bardstown Rd., 456- 1170. Dark and c ozy, with an old-fashioned f eeling, Da y’s has e verything y ou would e xpect in a c ollege-neighborhood c offee shop except a college near by. $ f DBL SHOTZ 1315 Spring St., Jeff ersonville, IN, 2 82 7000. $ DERBY CITY ESPRES SO 331 E. Mark et St., 442 052 3. L ouisville’s r oster of serious c offee shops continues t o gr ow. Pla ying the local car d, it features quality c offee beans r oasted b y Sunergos, A tomic Sauc er and Jackson’ s Or ganic Coffee, plus fine tea and, coming soon, light lunch fare and pastries. $ f e EXPRESSIONS OF Y OU 1800A W. Muhammad Ali, 584-6886. $ f e HEINE BROTHERS COFFEE 2714 Frankfort Ave., 8995551, 1295 Longest Ave., 456-5108, 2200 Bardstown Rd., 515-0 380, 118 Cheno weth Ln., 89 3-5103.

Spartan, friendly and aff ordable, with good c offee roasted on the premises and a short lis t of pastries, desserts and panini sandwiches, Heine Br os. has earned its outstanding local reputation. $ f e HIGHLAND C OFFEE C O. 1140 Bar dstown Rd., 4514545, 62 7 S. F ourth St., 540-9909 . Off ering tw o ways t o get wir ed, this c ozy neighborhood c offee shop also functions as one of L ouisville’s t op Internet cafés, wher e y ou can enjo y a hot cappuccino while y ou surf the ‘net in a W iFi hot spot. Funky Seattle-style ambience is a plus. $ f THE HOBKNOBB RO ASTING C O. 3700 P aoli Pik e, Floyds Knobs, IN, 9 2 3-1458. HobKnobb off ers fresh hot coffee, espresso drinks and fresh baked pastries, cakes and cookies. $ f JAVA BREWING COMPANY 9561B US Hwy 42, 2922 710, 516 W . Main St., 568-6 339, 135 S. English Station Rd., 489-56 77, F ourth Str eet Liv e, 56 12 041, 2 309 Fr ankfort A ve., 894-8060 . T hese casual spots boas ts the ambienc e of a friendly

old-fashioned book shop , with c omfortable seating, a good selection of pas tries, and quality coffee from Seattle. $ JOE MUGGS 994 Breckenridge Ln. (Books-a-Million), 894-8606, 4300 Towne Center Dr., 426-2252. $ f IT’S A GRIND COFFEE HOUSE 2809 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 32 7-2 82 0. W ith 136 pr operties including this recent Louisville arrival, this Calif ornia-based chain declar es itself the nation’ s f astest-growing coffee house company. $ f OLD LOUISVILLE COFFEE HOUSE 1489 S. Fourth St., 635-6660. $ f PERKFECTION 359 Spring St., Jeff ersonville, IN, 2180611. $ e SISTER BEAN’S 4956 Manslick Rd., 364-0082. $ f STARBUCKS COFFEE (32 locations) $ f SUNERGOS COFFEE & MICRO-RO ASTERY 2 12 2 S. Preston St., 634-1243. Matthew Huested and Brian Miller used t o r oast their o wn c offee beans as a hobby. Their friends said the y did it so w ell, they should turn pr o—the result is Suner gos C offee, another in the gr owing cadre of espr esso bars in Louisville’s Germantown neighborhood. $

THE BAKER Y 3100 Bar dstown Rd., 45 2 -12 10. Not just a fine bakery but a place where bakers learn their busines s, this e xcellent es tablishment is part of the culinary pr ogram at Sulliv an University. It ’s har d t o beat the quality br eads and pastries offered here to eat in or carry out. $ BREADWORKS 362 8 Br ownsboro Rd., 89 3-32 00, 2420 Lime Kiln Ln., 326-0 300, 2204 Dundee Rd., 452-1510, 11800 Shelbyville Rd., 254-2885. $ COCO’S BAKERY 6915 Southside Drive, 368-9280. $ COCO’S CHOC OLATE CAFÉ 1759 Bar dstown Rd., 454-9810. Stylish, artisanal choc olates and baked goods made on the pr emises mak e this tin y Highlands spot (in the old Seaf ood C onnection shop) a stylish place to stop and linger over for a dessert and a cup of c offee. $ f DESSERTS BY HELEN 2210 Bardstown Rd., 451-7151, 92 19 US Hw y. 42 , 2 2 8-8959 . Helen Friedman has earned a lo yal client ele sinc e the 19 70s with her elegant cak es, t empting pies and t ortes and designer cookies. $ HEITZMAN TRADITIONAL BAKER Y & DELI 9426 Shelbyville Rd., 426- 7736, 428 W. Market St., 5842437. The Heitzman f amily has been baking in the Louisville ar ea sinc e y our gr eat-aunt w as a girl ordering dinner r olls. Made fr esh daily , the pies, cakes, cookies and specialty pas tries provide tasty nostalgia for all who visit. $ MY FAVORITE MUFFIN 3934 Taylorsville Rd., 4850518, 9800 Shelb yville Rd., 42 6-9645. All the muffins are made right in the store, including such popular choices as the Cinnamon Crumb and the Turtle Muffin. $ PLEHN’S BAKERY 3940 Shelbyville Rd., 896-4438.

A neighborhood institution, this bakery is as busy as it is nos talgic. Enjo y the homet own soda fountain with ic e cr eam while y ou w ait f or y our hand-decorated birthda y cak e, br eakfast r olls or colorful cookies to be boxed. $ THE SWEET TOOTH 3110 Frankfort Ave., 895-4554.

You’ll find an enticing c ollection of cak es, pies and other homemade goodies, plus e xcellent coffee and a selection of loose-leaf t eas, in this cozy little spot betw een Cr escent Hill and St. Matthews. $

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MAP INDEX

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MAP # DIRECTION PAGE # DOWNTOWN 84 1 Downtown Louisville NEAR EAST 85 2 Highlands – Crescent Hill EAST 86 3 St. Matthews SOUTH EAST 87 4 Hikes Point – Buechel EAST 88 5 Hurstbourne N. – Lyndon SOUTH EAST 89 6 Hurstbourne S. – Jeffersontown NORTH EAST 90 7 River Rd. – Brownsboro Rd. NORTH EAST 90 8 Westport Rd. FAR EAST 91 9 Middletown NORTH EAST 91 10 Prospect SOUTH EAST 91 11 Fern Creek SOUTH 92 12 Airport – Okolona SOUTH WEST 93 13 Shively – Pleasure Ridge Park INDIANA 94 14 New Albany – Floyds Knobs INDIANA 95 15 Clarksville INDIANA 95 16 Jeffersonville

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Celebrating 30 Years Enjoy one of Louisville’s finest dining traditions Recipient of Wine Spectator Award Winning Wine List

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MAP INDEX

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DOWNTOWN > DOWNTOWN

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NEAR EAST > HIGHLANDS/CRESCENT HILL

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EAST > ST. MATTHEWS

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EAST > HURSTBOURNE N./LYNDON

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SOUTH EAST > HURSTBOURNE S./JEFFERSONTOWN

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MAP

7 > NORTH EAST > RIVER RD./BROWNSBORO RD. MAP

8 > NORTH EAST > WESTPORT ROAD

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11 > SOUTH EAST > FERN CREEK

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INDIANA > NEW ALBANY/FLOYDS KNOBS

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15 > INDIANA > CLARKSVILLE

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louisville • 424 south 4th street located at 4th street live! phone: 502-568-2202 • hardrock.com

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