Winter 2008 - 09 (Vol. 23)

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WINTER 2 009 | FEB-MAR-APR

dining guide

1,000

restaurants with|reviews & maps Bourbon-barrel smoked salmon from Varanese

brunch

great tips for fun and funky mid-day parties

profiles

varanese|morris’ deli|lilly’s|la rosita $ 4 . 9 9 U. S .

www.foodanddine.com

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WINTER 2009 PUBLISHER JOHN CARLOS WHITE

Redefining Fine Dining.

Winston’s modern ambience, enhanced menu and incomparable service creates the perfect environment for dinner with friends, a corporate event or any special occasion. Rated 3 1/2 stars, Winston’s has won numerous awards including the DiRona Achievement of Distinction in Dining Award and the Wine Spectator “Award of Excellence.�

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF SARAH FRITSCHNER VICE PRESIDENT PAUL M. SMITH COLUMNISTS ROGER A. BAYLOR JAY FORMAN RON JOHNSON DAVID LANGE JERRY SLATER ENTERTAINMENT EDITORS-AT-LARGE TIM & LORI LAIRD CONTRIBUTING WRITER MICHAEL L. JONES CONTRIBUTING CHEFS COLLEN ENGLE KATIE PAYNE MARK WAGNER CHIEF PHOTOGRAPHER DAN DRY MAGAZINE DESIGN & LAYOUT JOHN CARLOS WHITE GRAPHIC DESIGN KATHY KULWICKI STEFAN TAMBURRO

Reservations recommended

502-456-0980

"ARDSTOWN 2OAD s ,OUISVILLE +9 Lunch: &RI 3AT AM PM 3UN AM PM s Dinner: Fri. & Sat. 5:30pm-10pm

winstonsoĂ&#x;ouisville.com

COPY EDITOR PAUL NAJJAR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES ANNETTE B. WHITE GINA WOLFE DISTRIBUTION / FACT CHECKING PAUL NAJJAR IN FOND MEMORY OF OUR DEAR FRIEND DANIEL F. BOYLE

Food & Dining Magazine ÂŽ is published quarterly by Louisville Dining Magazine, Inc. P.O. Box 665, Louisville KY 40201 The publisher and advertisers are not responsible or liable f or misprints, typographical errors or misinformation. The opinions expressed herein are those of the writ ers and do not nec essarily reflect the opinion of the publisher. +Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited.

All rights reserved.

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Annual Subscription rate $18.

Submit subscription requests to: Food & Dining Magazine ÂŽ P.O. Box 665, Louisville KY 40201, or call (502) 493-5511 ext. 540 or subscribe online at

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502.454.4499

502.452.1210

3101 Bardstown Rd. | Louisville

3100 Bardstown Rd. | Louisville

julepsoouisville.com

thebakeryoouisville.com

Professional Food Service Department of Sullivan University System Ask About Our Wedding Services and How You Can Get a Free Cake!

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For Advertising information call (502) 493-5511 ext. 550 ON THE COVER Bourbon-barrel smoked salmon served on fettuccine tossed in a goat cheese cream sauce from Varanese.

(Feature story, page 22)

Photo by Dan Dry

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contents

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WINTER 2009

PROFILES Varanese:

Chef John Varanese mixes classic cuisine and whimsy into a stylish package at Varanese.

Lilly’s Bistro:

After 22 years, Lilly’s is still delivering fresh

and creative fare.

Morris’ Deli:

Good food and a personal touch keeps customers coming year after year to this family deli.

La Rosita:

This Mexican restaurant breaks from the pack by presenting traditional Mexican dishes not found elsewhere.

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COLUMNS STARTERS COMINGS & GOINGS A summary of changes on the local restaurant scene, with openings, closings, moves and more.

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SIDE DISHES Who’s doing what in the local culinary landscape.

FROM THE EDITOR

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Our new Food & Dining editor — longtime Courier-Journal Food Editor Sarah Fritschner — introduces herself and the changes in store.

HUMOR: Kitchen envy It’s the chef that makes the kitchen — until you can afford the equipment.

TRAVEL ROAD TRIP: Baltimore by the Bay The Chesapeake Bay area is synonymous with crab cakes and Baltimore offers up some of the best.

LIQUIDS SPIRITS: Mixing it up at home Bar stocking basics to help you prepare for cocktail parties that will please any crowd.

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COFFEE: Roasting coffee at home Want to try roasting coffee at home? We can show you how.

HIP HOPS: Beer lovers oasis Old-fashioned mom ’n’ pop store carves a niche with huge selection of craft beers.

RECIPES

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RESTAURANT FAVORITES: Come Back Inn’s celebrated starters Recipes for the Italian pub’s Antipasti Wontons and Caponata.

32 COOKING CLASS: Ethnic influenced 52 Sullivan University chefs share recipes cooked with a world of flavors.

EASY ENTERTAINING: Brunch basics

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A guide to throwing themed brunches from start to finish.

RESTAURANT GUIDE DINING GUIDE Our comprehensive listing of over 1,000 area restaurants complete with reviews. Now with more user-friendly features.

MAPS Find all of the restaurants in our Dining Guide on 16 area maps.

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starters comings & goings

BY SARAH FRITSCHNER

comings

& goings

The soft economy is not lost on restaurant owners. But entrepreneurs are eternal optimists, and Louisville Metro diners are benefiting. The highest profile restaurant opening is probably Z’s Fusion. Mehrzad Sharbaiani, co-owner of Z’s Oyster Bar and Steakhouse, has cast his talents west to open a stunning new restaurant in the old Kunz’ location at Fourth and Market streets downtown. And 21 other new restaurants have arrived on the dining scene despite the downturn in the economy.

As closings go, this quarter has seen its share of high profile and local favorites shutter their doors. Although no closing is taken lightly, the loss of Mazzoni’s Oyster Café, Louisville’s second longest-running restaurant (in business since 1884), is surely felt more deeply throughout the dining community.

The total of 22 new dining venues managed to offset the sad closing of 21 establishments. It seems that the sky is not falling on the Louisville area restaurant scene as many of the local media have reported.

OPENINGS As we said, we’re most optimistic about Z’s Fusion in the sweet spot of Convention Center alley (113 S. Fourth Street), where, we’ll surmise, Kunz’s lasted as long as it did because of convention business. Locals weren’t thrilled with the place.

Mehrzad Sharbaiani is one of about four people we can name in this town who gives Vincenzo Gabriele (at Vincenzo’s) any competition in the hospitality game; it’ll be fun to have them on dueling corners. They may do for hospitality what the old Grisanti restaurants did to create good chefs, and we welcome the focus on service.

The glass and great light inside Z’s Fusion are as much in play here as they are at Z’s “east” and we can be confident about the quality of the food, with veteran chef Dallas McGarity at the helm.

Minority partner Ben Jackson says, so far so good. “The restaurant has been very well received and business has been better than we expected,” he said. More than 400 people showed up for dinner service one recent weekend while the city was dealing with power and weather issues, so that bodes well.

Another point of interest: Mikato Japanese Steakhouse and Sushi Bar has come to fill 3938 Dupont Circle, the building that once housed Napa River Grill. Like being too rich or too thin, there’s no such thing as too much sushi, but only the residents of 40207 can tell us if the city can hold another hibachi flying cleaver act.

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Perhaps the economy has influenced the type of restaurant opening these days: fewer white tablecloths, more burgers and pasta and carry-out. Virginia-based chain Five Guys Burgers & Fries is trying its luck with two Southern Indiana locations (2221 State Street and 4321 Charlestown Road in New Albany). These are inexpensive destination spots for freshly-grilled burgers, big, smoky Kosher dogs, and fresh cut fries.

There’s more smoke in Southern Indiana: Dem Bones BBQ opened at 1703 Charlestown-New Albany Road in Jeffersonville to sell ribs, brisket and pulled pork.

And we await the opening of The aWay Café at 302 Pearl Street in New Albany. Owner Pete Lyons expects his café, which will serve breakfast, lunch and “light, healthy” dinners, to open in March.

Louisville follows suit with some chains and a few modest independents. We’re glad to see another destination for lox at lunchtime. Einstein Brothers Bagels chain has a location at 320 W. Jefferson Street in the Hyatt Regency.The bagels aren’t bad if you want to take a dozen home, but if you’re just there for lunch you can get soup or sandwich if you like. Ditto without the bagels at Chopshop Salads, 436 W. Market Street. In another part of downtown, Yafa Café comes to 22 Theater Square.

Café Palacio, 4010 Dupont Circle in the Professional Towers, claims to be “an upscale New York style deli” but we’re not so sure

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with offerings like portabella spinach wrap. But there are deli sandwiches too, and breakfast is available. Aspen Creek Restaurant, 8000 Bardstown Road has breached the outer limits of the expanding county with a lodge-style restaurant created by the folks behind Texas Roadhouse: expect pastas, burgers and chicken at moderate prices.

Further out of town, southwest you’ll find Forty Acres and a Mule at 1800 Dixie Hwy. for takeout and, southeast you’ll find Johnny V’s family style Italian at 10509 Watterson Trail.

Established restaurants are opening more locations. Topping the list is Wild Eggs. With the original location on Dutchmans Lane running at standingroom-only, restaurateur J.D. Rothsberg opens this second outlet of a planned mini-chain within eyeshot of his flagship Napa River Grill in Westport Village, 1311 Herr Lane.

Buffalo Wings & Rings, 6501 Bardstown Road, El Toro Mexican Restaurant, 10602 Shelbyville Road and Taco Bueno, 2350 Shane Drive, have each opened a second location. Several chains have added to their presence in the market.

The ninth Qdoba has been opened at 11910 Standiford Plaza Drive. The eighth J. Gumbos opened at 8603 Citadel Way and Buffalo Wild Wings #7 has opened at 1112 Veteran’s Parkway in Clarksville, Indiana.

CLOSINGS As mentioned, Mazzoni’s Oyster Café closed after more than a century of continuous operation. Following their move in Spring 2008 to a nondescript strip mall setting, Mazzoni’s never really recaptured the feel of the original(s).

Not as tenured but still a local institution, South Side Inn, 114 East Main Street, New Albany, has served its last meat-and-three.

Equally disappointing was the loss of Café Mimosa and the Egg Roll Machine (1216 Bardstown Road) to fire. To compound the disappointment, we lost one of the few restaurants outside of a pizza joint that delivered. Word has it that owner Phat Le has plans to rebuild — we hope that’s true.

After last quarter’s closing of Park Place, Browning’s and Primo, East Market www.foodanddine.com Winter 2009

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took another hit this quarter with the loss of three restaurants.The many followers of the family-style Italian cooking served up at Melillo’s, 829 E. Market Street, were saddened to see them go. We’ll miss them as well — we counted ourselves among their fans. Also gone are Jennica’s Café & Wine Bar at 636 E. Market Street and closer to downtown, Ice Breakers, 252 E. Market Street.

And it seems no area was immune from closings. West to Portland, Fresco’s Southwest Grill & Pizza, 204 Lytle Street closed, as did Wood City Grill at 612 S. Fifth Street downtown. East in LaGrange, Norma Jean’s Trackside at 119 W. Main Street also shut its doors. Expressions of You at 1800A W. Muhammad Ali Boulevard has closed but owners hope to reopen at some point. We will keep an eye out.

Old Louisville lost Oak Street Pizza, 125 E. Oak Street after a shooting. JoJo’s Fish Market, somewhat south of restaurant row at 2902 Bardstown Road has closed, along with Tuscano’s, 4100 Preston Highway; Versatile, 962 Baxter Avenue, Taste of Jamaica, 2017 Brownsboro Road and Woody’s Pub & Grill, 12205 Westport Road.

Southern Indiana has lost at least three restaurants: Cup of Sunshine Tea House & Café at 415 Riverside Drive in Clarksville, Main Street Café & Treats 155 E. Main Street in New Albany, Federal Hill Café at 310 Pearl Street in New Albany has closed for renovation but are not sure when they will reopen — if at all.

Louie Karem has closed his St. Matthews Karem’s location to concentrate on Karem’s Grill & Pub at 9424 Norton Commons Blvd., in Norton Commons.

MOVES AND CHANGES With new owners and a slightly different name, Tubby’s Pizza replaces Uncle Tubby’s at 103 Quartermast Court in Jeffersonville’s historic Quadrangle. Similarly, with a change of ownership comes a new name.

Menu on the River is now Jerry’s on the River (100 W. Riverside Drive, Jeffersonville). Brandon’s Bar-B-Q moved from its quarters at 9246 Westport Road to new digs at 9901 LaGrange Road. F&D

We regret any omissions, but invite the restaurant community to keep us informed. Send information by E-mail to publisher@foodanddine.com.

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As the temperature drops, drop on by Cozy up by the fire and savor Buckhead comfort food.

Our mountain lodge setting and signature homestyle menu is the perfect pick for the winter season. With a blazing ďŹ re and a hearty meal there’s nothing better.

Come relax and enjoy.

NEW LOCATION! 10206 Westport Rd Louisville, KY 502.339.0808 (Off I-265 across from The Home Depot)

3020 Bardstown Rd Louisville, KY 502.456.6680 (Gardiner Lane Shopping Center)

4112 Outer Loop Louisville, KY 502.966.5555 (on the corner of Preston Hwy and Outer Loop)

707 W Riverside Dr Jeffersonville, IN 812.284.2919 (spectacular view on the river, off I-65)

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A real local restaurant loved by real locals.

www.foodanddine.com Winter 2009PM9 2/3/09 4:06:58

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BY SARAH FRITSCHNER | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

side

dishes

RESTAURANTS AND THE ECONOMY The fallout of the troubled economy has not been lost on restaurant owners, and that’s all to the benefit of potential patrons who can now enjoy more relaxed, economical and informal dining in some of the area’s finer dining restaurants. However, it also means reduced access to dependable warhorses like Masterson’s, which will close it’s daily buffet, though the popular Sunday brunch remains.

Equus gets a make-over Equus (122 Sears Avenue), closed briefly for renovations, including a permanent door between Jack’s Lounge and the restaurant, will offer homier comfort-food fare like brisket and linguini with clam sauce. Prices will range from $5 to $19.50. In addition, owner Dean Corbett takes over once again as chef.

Avalon changing its image Avalon (1314 Bardstown Road) has also made a change — from tablecloths to butcher’s paper on the tables, to food in smaller portions (and some half portions) and lower prices: $3 to $27 according to owner Steve Clements.

Le Relais shifts to bistro style Anthony Dike, owner of Le Relais, (2817 Taylorsville Road), has also changed the menu to include classic bistro food with lower prices. Jeff Jarfi, at Jarfi’s (1543 Bardstown Road), is also reducing menu prices and featuring half-price sushi.

Equus Chef Dean Corbett

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Chefs on the Move Many of these changes at restaurants come with changes in chefs — Le Relais hired Jack Fry’s alum Bill Lynch to replace longtime chef Daniel Stage, who left for the cushy world of benefits at the Louisville Country Club. Clements hired Louisiana native Lawrence Agnew to run his new concept at Avalon, and has brought in Debbie Richter, former owner of Sweet Surrender, to be his pastry chef.

Have no fear, the jaegerschnitzel is still on the menu at Café Metro (1700 Bardstown Road). But the newish chef Gary Byler has added his own touch to the menu, in the form of chiles and Cajun accents.

Jim Gerhardt will be going it alone at Limestone (10001 Forest Green Blvd.) from now on. Partner Michael Cunha has left the building, and taken a job teaching in Sullivan University’s culinary program.

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AWARDS AND HONORS And Louisville’s culinary scene continues to get notice elsewhere. Lynn’s Paradise Café was named one of the top 10 breakfast/brunch restaurants in the Januar y issue of Southern Living. And Saveur’s January issue took note of the great bar food and other food in Louisville, including Flabby’s fried chicken livers, thickcut bologna sandwich at Check’s Café, shredded lamb and pork sandwiches at Morris’ Deli (featured in this issue) and the Bristol’s green chile wontons.

Looking for other good snack food?

John T. Edge, director of the Southern Foodways Alliance based at Ole Miss, drools over deep-fried hominy served at Proof. He described them as “crisp little orbs of maize, goosed with the earthy funk of truffle oil,” in U.S. Airways in-flight magazine.

In other recognitions, Winston’s joins Vincenzo’s and Equus as recipient of the DiR¯o NA award. The Distinguished Restaurants of Nor th America Quality Assurance Program is an independent and anonymous restaurant inspection program designed to promote excellence in dining.

Continued evidence of restaurant success can be found at 211 Clover Lane, which has added a private dining room and wine cellar.

And come spring you’ll see “Pizza and Taphouse” added to the name of the Highlands location of the local pizza chain Tony Boombozz, which will increase its square footage, and include 21 beers on tap and more choices in bottles.

Even in a bad economy, change can be good. F&D

S U B S C R I B E TO FOOD & DINING Can’t wait to see what’s in the next issue of Food & Dining?

Why not subscribe. Sign up for one year for $18, and we’ll give you four quarterly editions and pay you back in full with $18 in local-restaurant gift certificates.

Better still, take two years for $26, we’ll send you eight issues and send you $36 worth of gift certificates. Subscribe online at: ww.foodanddine .com www.foodanddine.com Winter 2009

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starters from the editor

BY SARAH FRITSCHNER | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

letter from the

publisher Welcome to this issue of Food & Dining Magazine. If you are a new reader, thanks for checking us out. If you are a regular reader, thanks for spending the time with us.

It has been nearly six years since the first issue of Food & Dining rolled off the presses. In that time much has changed.

The nation’s interest in food, cooking and dining has grown dramatically, thanks at least in part to food television, video on the Internet and an array of food coverage by other media. Greater availability and a wider selection of ingredients have helped people become more sophisticated home cooks. We’re more interested in where our food comes from. And new neighbors from around the world have brought their cuisines to Louisville. As a result, our palates are accustomed to a broader experience. We’re more food-savvy.

We think it’s important that we grow along with our audience.

In the coming issues, our extensive coverage of the local dining scene will be augmented with more about the food we cook and eat at home — where it comes from, how it’s grown and transported, where you can buy it and how to use it.

To that end, we are more than pleased to announce the arrival of Sarah Fritschner as our new Editor-in-Chief. Sarah is already a household name in many Louisville area homes after serving as the Food Editor for the Courier-Journal and Louisville Times for 24 years.

Her writing chops extend beyond her time at the Louisville dailies.

She has contributed to a variety of prominent food magazines, most notably Gourmet, Food & Wine and Eating Well, and penned six food related books including the popular Express Lane series. A Louisville native, Sarah knows how unique the Louisville dining scene is. She also knows nearly every nook and cranny of the local shopping scene, including farmers’ markets, ethnic markets and specialty food sources.

She’ll serve as a great “translator” between the restaurants and the home cook.

A couple of issues back we introduced Tim and Lori Laird’s column Easy Entertaining. Tim and Lori aren’t your average hosts; they have thrown over a thousand (yes, thousand) soirées for family, friends and neighbors over the years. And Tim has turned his passion for entertaining into his profession. He serves as the CEO (Chief Entertaining Officer) and CCO (Chief Cocktail Officer) for the international spirits giant Brown-Forman Corporation. You might recognize Tim from one of his 100 plus appearances on radio and television this year — shows like “The Tonight Show”, CNN, FOX News and CNBC. As our new Entertainment Editors-at-Large, expect more colorful and useful advice from Tim and Lori on how to make things simple and easy when you entertain at home.

We hope you enjoy the new recipe we are whipping up. Until next time, Laissez les bon temps roulez — Let the goods times roll.

John Carlos White, Publisher 12 Winter 2009 www.foodanddine.com

neweditor-in-chief

Sarah Fritschner offers an introduction

Food & Dining offers Louisville food enthusiasts a nearly complete menu of fabulous culinary options.

From restaurant profiles to chefs’ recipes, the magazine tempts us with the latest in dining. Lori and Tim Laird weigh in with home entertaining. The columnists inform us about the trends and stalwarts in wine, beer, and caffeine.

Then there are the reliably helpful bastions of reference material: restaurant capsules, maps showing their locations, and the latest in openings and closings.

What more could a reader want?

Well, maybe a tip on where to find the miso, tat soi and chili paste that Sullivan University chef Katie Payne uses in the recipe she shares with us this month for sea bass. Or the galangal and lemongrass used in Collen Engle’s Thai soup. Or where to find locally grown apples that aren’t sprayed with pesticides. Or beef raised on grass.

I have always been a fan of Food & Dining Magazine, getting a vicarious rush from reading it like when I read the travel articles in Gourmet. But the truth is I’m a home cook devoted to locally owned businesses and farmers’ markets, who believes that I can “vote with my fork.”

Cooking is my vote for family values. It’s my vote for a stronger local economy, because my food dollars support the region. It’s my vote for thriving rural communities and a healthier environment.

Cooking most of my own food is a vote for good health (but not always). Cooking for neighbors, friends and newcomers strengthens social ties. Auctioning off myself as a cook for someone else, I’ve supported causes like cystic fibrosis research and the composting project Breaking New Grounds. And cooking at home helps me understand more about what I eat out.

So as the new editor-in-chief of this magazine, I hope to add more to the menu of offerings with a little more information for the home cook, to complement the comprehensive information already offered to the restaurant diner.

It’s a both/and proposition, not either/or. I love the dumplings at Lee’s Korean restaurant. So I keep a bag of frozen dumplings in the freezer. I bought them at Choi’s Asian grocery, along with Chinese black vinegar I mix with soy sauce, sugar and chili paste that I use as a sauce.

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I hope that the mix of information you will find in this magazine will allow you to make your cooking more fun. Here you will find where to shop for great ingredients, and information that will make your home-cooked food delicious and satisfying, even if it’s humble. I hope that you will find that instead of years of chef school, you will only need time and love.

I hope that on the nights when you’re eating in, you’ll have fun cooking. And I hope that you’ll share what you cook with friends.

Take ropas viejas. Does anyone cook it better than Fernando Martinez’s version at Havana Rumba? Certainly not I. But I love the version I make at home, using Foxhollow beef from cows that graze on Oldham County grassland.

I love that the beef is higher in omega-3 fatty acids than grain-fed beef. I love that even though I’m eating beef, I’m not perpetuating the abuses and the environmental consequences of

raising animals in feed lots. I love that I contribute to the local economy when I buy it and, most of all, I love the taste.

This year, I started making the dish after Thanksgiving, when a plethora of green peppers — purchased the last weeks of a fall farmers’ market and bequeathed to me by a neighbor the day before a predicted frost — started wrinkling in my refrigerator. My version of ropas veijas uses 4 or 5 green peppers, so it seemed like a good choice.

The first and second batches were eaten with friends. The third and fourth were fixed for family. Some of the leftovers from those batches were reheated in the microwave for lunch, some were frozen for future lunches.

After completing 24 satisfying years as food editor of two Louisville daily newspapers, I’m glad that Food & Dining allows me to continue my relationship with food-lovers over a commonly shared table.

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Ropas Viejas (SERVES 12)

For the Beef: 4 pounds beef or bison shoulder 1 teaspoon salt 1 /4 teaspoon (freshly ground) pepper 1 bay leaf 3 cloves garlic, pressed flat 11/2 teaspoons oregano 11/2 teaspoons ground cumin For the Ropas: 4 or 5 green bell peppers, cut into 1/4 -inch strips (substitute some red peppers, if desired) 1 onion, cut in 1/4 -inch slices 4 tablespoons olive oil 3 cloves garlic, minced, about 1 tablespoon 14 to 16 ounces canned, crushed tomatoes 3 tablespoons tomato paste (about 1/2 of a 6-ounce can) 1 /2 cup sliced or crushed green pimiento-stuffed olives 3 red bell peppers To braise the beef: Sprinkle both sides of beef with salt and pepper. In a large, heavy pot, combine bay leaf, garlic, oregano and cumin with 2 quarts of water. Add the beef and bring the water to a boil.

Reduce the heat to low and simmer uncovered for 2 hours.

Allow the beef to cool in the water for a half hour, then remove meat to a plate. Fish out the bay leaf and discard.

Continue to simmer the beef stock so that it reduces in quantity to about 4 cups.

To make ropas: Combine sliced bell peppers, onions and 3 tablespoons olive oil in a heavy skillet over medium heat. Cook, stirring occasionally, until they are soft, about 15 minutes. Add the garlic and cook another 10 minutes. All the vegetables should be quite reduced, browning and limp. Add them to the broth.

Pull the meat into shreds, adding it to the pot as you do.

When the meat is entirely shredded, add crushed tomatoes, paste, oregano and cumin. Continue to simmer, uncovered, another 30 minutes.

Add olives. Bring to a boil and cook 5 minutes. Taste for seasoning and add salt and pepper if necessary.

Slice red peppers into 1/4 -inch strips. Heat remaining tablespoon of olive oil in a skillet over medium heat and add peppers.

Cook slowly 30 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the peppers are quite limp and some have browned.

Put the meat in a bowl topped with red peppers. Serve with rice and black beans, if desired. Be sure to spoon some broth over the meat and rice. F&D www.foodanddine.com Winter 2009 15

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BY JAY FOREMAN

Kitchen Envy It’s the chef that mak es the kitchen — until you can afford the equipment Recently I’ve been watching from the sidelines as my friend Teddy renovates his home in New Orleans. As Teddy is a doctor, and Teddy loves to cook, he therefore has the wherewithal and motivation to put a lot of resources into his kitchen and, consequently, I’m jealous.

I believe it was the flattop grill that finally pushed me over the edge. It wasn’t enough to have eight burners spanning a cooking area the size of a pool table; he had to find a little something extra to set it apart. After all, any schmuck can walk into Lowe’s and buy a cast-iron griddle to slap over a pair of burners. But only by having a dedicated strip of grill top can a person truly bridge the “Pancake Gap” that has persisted for decades, ever denying the home chef the chance to realize his potential as an IHOP line cook.

When he told me about it over the phone, everything sort of faded to red, but I believe it went a little something like this: Me: Hey Teddy, what’s going on?

Teddy: Oh, not much. Just putting the new stove in our kitchen.

Me: Yeah? What did you get?

Teddy: Oh, just this eight burner range with a dedicated flattop and an optional salamander kit.

Me: Who makes it?

Teddy: I can’t really say.Their customers are required to sign a non-disclosure agreement. But what I can tell you is that part of the deal is they fly me to Sonoma for a weekend training seminar on how to use the thing. And play golf.

Me: Sonoma, huh? That’s rough.

Teddy: I know. But as far as the installation goes, it’s a bit of a pain. Since it’s commercial-grade it needs a one-inch gas line.

We’ll have to rip out the old one and lay some tungsten-reinforced, double-baffled custom gas pipe to tie it into the gas grid.

Me: Wow. Teddy: That’s pending city approval of course.Their concern is that if I turn it on high, the French Quarter might go dark. I had to get a waiver from the mayor.

Me: Ah. Well, that sounds nice.You want to grab a hamb…

Teddy: Hey, you can help me pick out a hood for the thing. After all, gotta match the BTU output to CFMs! Me: (lamely continuing on) I know a place that does a mean deepfried pickle.

16 Winter 2009 www.foodanddine.com

Teddy: That’s Cubic Feet per Minute to you and me. I’ve found this nice number out of Foggy Bottom that was developed as part of the CIA’s counter-terrorism program. It can filter out particles between three and twelve nanometers. Protects against weaponized anthrax. It was going to be part of the air system for the Pentagon, but they ran out of money. So I bought it. After all, when you’re roasting a couple of pigs in a walk-in oven, you need ventilation that ensures that pig particles don’t get blasted all over the new paint in the kitchen. Wife won’t like that!

Me: (weakly) But let me guess — the permitting is a headache, huh?

Teddy: Boy howdy!

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I don’t want to sound like a playerhater, but I guess that is what I am. I’d sure like a walk-in oven with knobs that instead of “low” “medium” and “high” point at pictures of large, roastable animals. I’d like my own brew-room in the garage with a three-compartment sink and a Kegerator with a dedicated CO2 line, but hey. Some of us must suffer kitchen equipment that does not feature technology spun off from the International Space Station.

Yet television and design magazines don’t make this an easy desire to forgo.

Appliance manufacturers have been quick to react to consumer cravings for commercially inspired equipment.Witness GE’s “Monogram” series of stainless steel ovens and ranges, pimped heavily on Top Chef, which take design cues from Viking, the difference being that the GE ones actually don’t break all the time. Yet despite reliability issues, companies like Viking and Sub-Zero have a cachet that the others cannot match. It’s called the “Land Rover Effect” and I’m, like, totally susceptible to it.

Oh well. At least Teddy can cook. He really uses this stuff. Lots of people who equip their kitchens in such a way don’t go beyond microwaving a bag of Orville Redenbacher.

Some of the more outlandish devices beginning to populate the consumer market now include wood burning ovens, glass countertops, and built-in deep fryers.

It is only a matter of time before WilliamsSonoma begins to offer standing floor mixers and 30-gallon tilt skillets in an array of designer colors. What’s next — a Ch-Ch-Ch-Chia Coffee Plantation?

When I look around the gleaming showrooms and ar tfully-constructed outdoor kitchens, I think back to a chef here in New Orleans named Greg Sonnier. For years he worked a simple, six-burner stove in a closet-sized kitchen at a restaurant called Gabrielle, turning out some of the best food in the city with only the most basic equipment. I extrapolate that to kitchens in New York or, godforbid,Tokyo, which are often smaller than the coat check rooms but whose chefs still manage to plate up exquisite fare. I’ll take the comfort of knowing that it is the chef that makes the kitchen, and not the other way around. At least, until I can afford the equipment. F&D

Dine Out Louisville!

This city’s greatest treasure is our incredible dining scene.

Reducing Your Costs by Going Green green.whatchefswant.com www.foodanddine.com Winter 2009 17

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BY JERRY SLATER

Mixing it up at Home Bar stocking basics prepare you for great cocktail parties that please an y crowd

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Do you want to spend time with friends, but the recession is cutting into your entertainment budget? These economic times may have everyone cutting back. Entertaining at home is one alternative that can cost you less and be just as enjoyable as a night out.

Entertaining at home puts pressure on the host though. The worry about cleaning, cooking, and stocking a bar can start to take the fun out of your soirée. I may leave the decorating and finger foods to Martha Stewart and Rachel Ray, but planning a libation layout is where I step up.

The best cocktail parties tend to be the ones where interesting people of varied backgrounds and experiences are brought together. The conversation flows because everyone has something different to contribute. All that diversity also means a wide range of tastes. With that in mind, stocking a bar can pose a challenge. But, if you start with knowledge of the basics, and add your personal tastes, everyone is sure to find something he or she likes.

Let’s start with the basic categories: vodka, gin, rum, tequila, and whiskey, which includes Scotch and Bourbon (although in Louisville, Bourbon is its own basic category). After that, I will include a little advice on making cocktails with your newly-stocked bar. And finally, I will recommend some reading to advance your home bartending skills.

Technically, vodka should be your easiest purchase, because by definition it is a neutral grain spirit with no odor, flavor, or color. If this is true, why are there so many vodkas on the market? I think its easy drinkability, combined with marketing genius, makes this a very popular spirits category. Avoid flavored vodkas (why not add fresh lemon juice if you want lemon flavor?), and make the frugal choice. Save your dollars for categories like rum or whiskey, where flavor matters more.Two favorite vodkas are BrownForman’s Finlandia and Rain, the organic vodka made

by Buffalo Trace distillery.

With a resurgence in classic cocktails, gin is once again popular. It is hard to believe that vodka wasn’t introduced to this country until the 1940s and didn’t become popular until the 50s. So when today’s best bartenders are researching classic drinks, more often than not, gin is the spirit of choice.

There are some new “softer” gins on the market, like the citrusheavy Stellar or the cucumber- and rose-scented Hendick’s, which appeal to a wider audience. But I tend toward the classics, like Plymouth, from England’s “oldest working distillery,” or the classictasting Aviation from Portland, Oregon.

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Rum may be the most difficult category to recommend, because the variety of styles is so diverse. There are white, or un-aged rums, that are good as mixers. Anejo, or aged rums, also mix well, but can be sipped over ice or in a snifter. There are even expensive XO styles and dark rich rums, like Cruzan Blackstrap. For cocktails, like the popular mojito, a clear rum, preferably from sugarcane juice (not molasses), is the best choice.

Try Rhum Clement’s Premiere Canne. For a sipper, splurge on a bottle of Pyrat XO. Its rich, almost Grand Marnier-like taste, might be the bottle you pull out when the par ty has dwindled to your favorite few.

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Tequila may be the most dynamic category to discuss.The influx of premium and aged products make a tequila buyer’s choice more difficult and more fun. Quality tequilas tend to come three ways: blancos, un-aged tequila that has the fresh, vegetal taste of roasted agave (the cactus-like plant from which it is derived); reposados, meaning “rested” for three months to a year in barrel, and anejos, or “aged” tequila that has been in barrel from one year to three years. Avoid the “gold” category, as it usually has caramel coloring and extra sugar or glycerin added to simulate reposados and anejos. Look for a quality blanco like El Jimador for shaking up great margaritas. Save the anejos and reposados, like those from Don Eduardo or Cielo, for the snifter, or maybe a few cubes of ice with a lime wedge.

Whiskey is also a fun category to explore, especially since it is made in various styles all over the world.There are great whiskeys from Ireland, Canada, and even Japan, but for the purpose of stocking a bar with the basics, let’s stick with Scotch whisky, from Scotland, and Bourbon whiskey, almost all of which is made here in Kentucky.

When it comes to Scotch, unless you or your friends are single-malt aficionados, no one is going to complain about a good blended whisky like Dewar’s or Johnny Walker Black Label.These tasty whiskies are less expensive and no one will be offended if they are made into a Rob Roy or

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other cocktail. When it comes to Bourbon in Louisville, everyone has a favorite and a reason why, and I have written several ar ticles about it previously in this very magazine. So, for purposes of stocking a basic bar, I will offer this bit of insider information. A lot of restaurant folks I know keep a bottle of Old Forester under their sinks. Remember, these are the people serving drinks all day; enough said. F&D Try a true classic

Old-Fashioned In an old-fashioned glass muddle a sugar cube, lemon peel, orange slice and 2 dashes of bitters. Add a couple ice cubes and 2 ounces of Bourbon. Stir and finish with a maraschino cherry.

With the items we have talked about, your straight or on-the-rocks friends are covered. But, if you want to show off and make some exceptional cocktails for everyone, I will offer these few pieces of advice: ✓ Use fresh juice, like lemon, lime or even orange, when your recipes call for them. ✓ Pre-make simple syrup by combining equal amounts of sugar and water and bringing it to a boil, stirring until the sugar dissolves. After it cools, you have the perfect ingredient for sweetening cocktails, like margaritas. ✓ Never use store-bought sweet-and-sour mixes. ✓ Have bitters on hand and use them when they are called for. Think of bitters as salt for your cocktails. If you do not believe me, try a Manhattan with them and without them. ✓ Your home freezer makes great ice for cocktails. If you can, start a day or two early stockpiling it in a bowl in the freezer. ✓ With a good shaker and an adventurous spirit, you should impress and entertain your friends.

For more reading and recipes on the subject, I would recommend The Craft of the Cocktail, by Dale Degroff; The Ultimate Book of Cocktails, by Stuar t Walton; and The Art of the Bar, by Jeff Hollinger and Rob Schwar tz.

Cheers!

“ ?\ @WYa D_YabWki YWd m_d j^[ CWij[hi Wj *," ? YWd m_d j^[ A[djkYao :[hXo Wj +*$

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— Willie Shoemaker

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BY RON JOHNSON

Baltimore by the Bay The Chesapeake Bay area is synonymous with crab cakes and Baltimore offers up some of the bes t.

B

Baltimore, Md. languishes in the shadow of its neighbor Washington, D.C. That’s too bad, because Baltimore is one of America’s great, historic cities. A longtime anchor of the eastern seaboard shipping business, Baltimore’s position on the Chesapeake Bay and easy access to major metropolitan areas like Philadelphia and New York City, as well as points south, made it a prominent player in the development of interstate commerce on the east coast. Its proximity to Washington, D.C. kept it integrally involved with matters of national policy as well. Like many American cities, Baltimore has seen severe urban decay as its population fled to the suburbs, only to see a rebirth of the urban core thanks to forward thinking city planners and developers.The inner harbor and waterfront areas of downtown now teem with great restaurants, shops, and tourists.

Maryland is dominated by the Chesapeake Bay. This largest estuary in the United States pushes deep into Maryland’s interior, creating a state that is predominantly coastline and waterfront.

The bay produces more blue crab, some 45,000 tons annually, than any individual body of water in the world. Hence, it is no surprise that the Callinectes sapidus is the state crustacean. It’s also no surprise that this little critter dominates the cuisine as well. The popularity of the “Maryland Crab Cake” extends well beyond the state line, and it is a dish that became ubiquitous in the appetizer section of nearly every restaurant in the country at one time or another. In Baltimore, one must choose between two styles of Maryland crab cake: the Restaurant and the Boardwalk.The former is the more familiar version, consisting of lump crab meat and little or no cracker crumb filling, seasoned, and bound together with egg 20 Winter 2009 www.foodanddine.com

before being sautéed.The latter is a working man’s crab cake that is larger with more filler, deep-fried and served on a bun to form a more substantial meal for longshoremen working the docks.

Another, and even more popular, method of serving crab in Baltimore is the traditional crab house steamed crab. Blue crabs are coated in a heavy layer of Old Bay Seasoning before being placed in perforated metal trays. These trays are stacked in large pots of boiling, seasoned water and vinegar, where the crabs steam to a bright coral color. The crabs are dumped onto newspapercovered tables where diners clad in bibs pounce on them with mallets, shell-crackers, picks, and all manner of accoutrement to extract meat from shell. Pitchers of beer are served to wash down the feast and copious amounts of Old Bay which ends up coating one’s hands, arms and face by the end of the meal.

These crab houses proliferate all over Maryland, and Baltimore is no exception. For those with a rental car, a trip over to St. Michaels, Md. provides the authentic crabbing experience.The offload point for crab boats, St. Michaels has long been home to a

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number of crab houses situated along the waterfront. For those seeking a more upscale atmosphere and a menu offering more than just crab, St. Michaels Crab & Steak House is the logical choice. For those who aren’t afraid of getting their hands dirty with Old Bay and crab juice, the Crab Claw is a more rustic and traditional crab house where fisherman pull up their boats and sell their catch directly to the kitchen. Even those staying out in the ’burbs of Baltimore have access to excellent crabs. CJ’s Crab House in Owings Mills has consistently been ranked as one of the top crab houses in the city by Baltimore Magazine. At CJ’s, diners can order the usual spiced crabs, but also indulge in delicious oysters, crab cakes, and even soft, warm pretzels covered in rich crab sauce. Finally, for those who need a break from Old Bay Seasoning, Obrycky’s uses a pepper-based spice that is a nice change of pace.

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While crab is the order of the day in Baltimore, it would be unfair to paint this town as a one dish city.The Waterfront and inner harbor areas are the destinations of choice for tourists visiting the city and offer a wide variety of dining experiences. For fine dining, Charleston is a top choice among locals.The food is inventive, tasteful and often features luxury ingredients like foie gras and truffles to accent dishes based on classic recipes and the high quality local seafood. Salt has won accolades from critics and diners alike since its opening as a “neighborhood tavern” a few years ago.

The insatiable demand for its consistently delicious cuisine has morphed Salt into a destination restaurant for foodies all over Baltimore. It can be crowded and reservations are a must, but the food is among the best in town.

For those seeking a more blue collar dining experience that doesn’t involve crab

or crab products, they would be well served to sample the BBQ at Rub where Texas-style ’cue is on the menu along with strong drinks, hot fries, and spicy chili. Beer drinkers can get all the malted barley and hops they can handle at The Brewer’s Art. The house beers include the hoppy Beacon, the Belgian-style Ozzy, and the abbey-style Resurrection, the last of which may be in order after consuming too many of the former.

Given its proximity to Washington, D.C., any trip to the nation’s capital ought to include a quick side trip to Baltimore for some exposure to the wonderful cuisine of the Chesapeake Bay. A short train ride or trip in the rental car will reward diners with all the crab they can handle in every form that they could imagine.Take a tour of the harbor, explore the Waterfront, and eat crabs like a local.

You will be glad you did. F&D

The crab cake is a staple on most American appetizer menus. But arguably some of the best, if not freshest, can be found on tap in Baltimore.

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people and places profiles

BY MICHAEL L. JONES | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

Rebel in the Kit chen

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Varanese mixes classic cuisine and whims y into a stylish package

Varanese, a contemporary Mediterranean restaurant on Frankfort Avenue, is full of more surprises than a David Lynch film. John Varanese, owner and executive chef, creates dishes that are adventurous enough for the most discriminating tastes, yet affordable enough for the Average Joe looking for a night out on the town.The restaurant’s menu pairs traditional Italian dishes, like angel-hair pasta and prosciutto-wrapped chicken breast ($14), with Southern and Middle Eastern influences, like Hawaiian blue prawns with grits ($28) or the curried lamb empanadas stuffed with goat cheese ($7). However,Varanese’s biggest surprise is the turducken, a Louisiana delicacy that proved to be a popular local holiday special.

Varanese said he first made the turducken, essentially a boned turkey stuffed with a duck and a chicken, as a lark.“(NFL analyst) John Madden made it popular,” Varanese explained.

“On the Thanksgiving broadcast, he was always talking about his six-legged turkey and the turducken. The first time I made it was off the top of my head with no recipe. I’ll do anything to stick out and be a little different.” Although the turducken ($22) is not a standard on the menu,Varanese said he likes to run it as a special every couple of months.

The restaurant’s décor mixes classic style with a modern twist. It is housed in the former location of the Red Lounge, a once popular Frankfort Avenue nightclub that was a rehabilitated service station. It is hard to believe the space was once reserved for oil changes.Varanese has a contemporary Mediterranean design with a newly-built, all-weather patio and a 24-foot slate waterfall wall.The main dining room has golden walls, hanging light fixtures, and Moroccan fabric draped across the ceiling.

Varanese “I wanted to make it feel like Club Med or somewhere,” Varanese said.“It’s really a big city feel. People say this place doesn’t feel like it’s in Louisville. I wanted to bring something new, vibrant with a good atmosphere. … The design and the atmosphere, I would call it contemporary Mediterranean.”

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(502) 899-9904 2106 Frankfort Ave.

Varanese opens seven nights a week for dinner, and features live jazz every night.The menu ranges from $9 sandwiches like “V Burger,” char-grilled beef topped with smoked mozzarella and crispy prosciutto, to $22 prime rib, which is grilled and served with mushroom and Parmesan risotto. The restaurant also has several

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theme nights: Flambé Mondays, when patrons get a complementary flambé dessert with dinner; “wine down” Wednesdays, with half price bottles of wine; and on Sundays, “industry night,” featuring half price appetizers and beers on tap after 9 p.m., as a salute to everyone in the service industry.

“I don’t want to be a special-occasion restaurant,” Varanese said.“At this place, I try to keep the menu very conservative, most entrées are priced under $20. But if you want the finer things, I run daily specials like the turducken and the Hawaiian sea bass ($30).

The same thing with the wine list, I have a lot of wines priced between $26 and $40. But, if you want the reserve list, we go all the way to $300. I try to give people what they want.”

Varanese, 35, did not grow up with a passion for cooking. His grandmother catered some weddings, but no one else in his family had much culinary interest. For a long time, the Cleveland native said, the kitchen was just a way for him to make money. “I ended up getting a job at this little Italian restaurant because I was a 13year old little punk,” he said. “I was drinking beer in back of the restaurant after a football game. It was a Friday night. The owner came out and asked if anybody wanted to make some money. I ended up taking this job for a dollar under minimum wage, under the table, washing dishes. By the time I was 16, I was pretty much running the show.That’s how I ended up in a professional kitchen.

I found out I really liked it.”

When the owner decided to take his family to Italy for a vacation, he left the young chef in charge. One night, during a power outage, Varanese realized how much he’d learned. “The

power went out one weekend and we were the one restaurant on the block that had power,” Varanese said. “So, I had long lines morning and night. Two nights in a row, I doubled the owner’s record.”

After graduating from high school,Varanese went to Johnson and Wales University in South Carolina, the Southern arm of a Rhode Island-based elite culinary program that has produced celebrity chefs like Food Network’s Emeril Lagasse and Tyler Florence. Varanese obtained an associate degree in culinary arts and a bachelor’s degree in food service management.

“I figured I already had a head start from working in the kitchen at the Italian restaurant, so I decided to go to culinary school,” Varanese said. He loved the idea of a culinary school on the beach. “I was like, ‘ho, that’s my calling.’ While I was down there I worked for a couple of good restaurants.” His last gig was at Magnolias, referred to as “perhaps Charleston’s most celebrated restaurant” by Southern Living magazine.

In 1998, he had moved to Birmingham, Ala., when an acquaintance from Magnolias called him about an opening in Louisville at Azalea. Varanese worked there for three years, until he decided that he was ready to be on his own. Unfortunately, financing his dream restaurant took more time than he expected.

He took a temporary position at the Cardinal Club Golf Course in Simpsonville to make ends meet.

“It was a win-win situation for both of us,” Varanese said. “I needed steady income. And they needed someone to structure things for them.When I took the job I said,‘you know guys, I might

Blue Hawaiian prawns with cream cheese grits and asparagus.

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be here a year, I might be here two. I’m getting close to doing my own place.’ Four years later I finally ended up leaving.”

Varanese found the Frankfort Avenue location for his restaurant in August 2006, but then he found himself tied up in red tape by the bank and city. Between the expansion, zoning variances and interior design, the project took longer and cost twice as much as he had projected.

Before he finally opened in August 2007, he spent time brainstorming the menu with Hollis Barnett, his chef de cuisine (head of the kitchen). One dish they conceived was caramelized orange salmon with cream cheese grits ($17).“We came up with the fried banana with oatmeal cookie dough ice cream … We were trying to think of a different way to present a flair on bananas Foster.”

Varanese said he also brought some favorites from Azalea with him, like the grilled prime rib and the pecan encrusted mahi-mahi atop whipped sweet potatoes and honey butter sauce ($18).

“Things are going well,” Varanese said. “The economy is a little soft, of course, which is affecting everybody. I call it treading water right now. We’ll hit our home runs another day. People want value. They don’t want to spend $40 on dinner and then ask, ‘Was that really worth it?’.” F&D Vibrant tones, rich fabrics and artisan touches like the Moroccan light fixtures that hang above the bar (left) complement the contemporary Mediterranean fare served up at Varanese.

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Bourbon-barrel smoked salmon is served on fettuccine tossed in a goat cheese cream sauce.

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people and places profiles

BY MICHAEL L. JONES | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

Award Winner Continues to Evolve After 22 years, Lilly’s Bistro is still delivering fresh and creative fare

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Kathy Cary has all the accolades any chef could ever want: she has appeared on the Today Show, the Food Network, and the Martha Stewart Show; Lilly’s Bistro, the restaurant she’s operated for 22 years, is included in 1,000 Places to See in the U.S.A. and Canada Before You Die; and she’s been nominated for a James Beard “best chef of the Southeast” award five times. And, as if that wasn’t enough, Cary raised two children while she was establishing her reputation as one of the most creative chefs in the country.

For most people this would be a satisfying career, but Kathy Cary is far from winding down. She is still working hard to be the brightest star in all the constellations in the Louisville culinary scene. To that end, her free time is spent scouring cookbooks for recipes that might bring a new dimension to Lilly’s menu.

Lilly’s Kentucky Bibb Salad. Locally grown Bibb lettuce, sautéed Rocky Meadow apples, walnuts and gorgonzola stuffed figs with a maple balsamic vinaigrette.

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Lilly’s Bistro 1147 Bardstown Rd.

(502) 451-0047

Cary said the chef/owner of a restaurant has to evolve constantly because of the dual demands of cooking and commerce.“You can’t work in the restaurant business and be lazy or your doors will be closed, real quick,” she said. “I’m not resting on our past, especially in these times, right now, with the economy. We can’t miss a beat in terms of quality of food, quality of service, clean bathrooms, even the person greeting out front.

I have these nights where I walk into the dining room and I don’t know anybody. I get so happy, because I know the word is still spreading.”

Lilly’s art deco logo is a familiar sight to anyone who travels along Bardstown Road. The restaurant sits on the corner of Bardstown Road and Patterson Avenue. Inside, everything is elegant earth tones and dark wood. A small bar dominates the main dining room and the walls are covered with photos and art that Cary has collected throughout her travels. On the far wall a mural depicts a bucolic, country scene. In the coatroom corridor hang framed ar ticles about Lilly’s from places like Gourmet, Southern Living,The New York Times and Everyday with Rachel Ray. For the last few years, Lilly’s has been on a mission to reintroduce itself to the general public. For too long, Cary said, the

restaurant was viewed as a special-occasion venue or a meeting place for the city’s elite. But she believes the restaurant’s appeal has expanded as the menu has gotten more adventurous, including such recipes as grilled Canadian lobster tail and crispy shrimp ravioli with sautéed kale and brandy-lobster reduction ($14) and “duck two ways” — seared breast and duck sausage with Gascony cabbage plum gratin, and orange sage sauce ($30).

“Over the years, we’ve become more of a neighborhood bistro,” Cary explained. “We changed the name to Lilly’s Bistro (from Lilly’s Restaurant). It went a long way toward breaking everyone’s perception that they couldn’t come to Lilly’s because it was too expensive. We are like, ‘No, come in here in your blue jeans and have a good time.’ ” Cary’s attitude changed after a trip she took to Barcelona a few years ago. Eating in Spanish restaurants led to her re-imagining Lilly’s.When she returned home, Cary added her take on tapas to the menu. In Spain, tapas are small, inexpensive dishes usually served at bars. Lilly’s Kentucky tapas range in price from $5 to $11, and they include fried oysters on creamy spinach with Broadbent bacon chips, and Fiedler pork saucisson, Portuguese sardines, celery apple slaw, with Kenny’s Farmhouse white cheddar cheese. www.foodanddine.com Winter 2009 27

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Cary, 55, is renowned for her use of traditional Kentucky recipes and local ingredients. She traces her love of both to her upbringing on an Oldham County farm. Her professional career began in Washington, D.C., where she was apprenticed to a Cordon Bleu-trained chef. After she returned to Kentucky, she married singer-songwriter Will Cary. The couple opened LaPeche in the Highlands, a gourmet-to-go café, in 1979. Lilly’s, named for the couple’s daughter, opened in 1987 for sit-down dining.

At one point there were two LaPeche locations, one in the Holiday Manor Shopping Center. Cary closed both carry-outs to focus more attention on Lilly’s and its expanding catering business. Some customers still haven’t accepted the loss, though it’s been three years.“People … can still get their cheese torte or Benedictine here at Lilly’s,” assures Cary.

And some customers come to Lilly’s in pursuit of legendary desserts: like caramel cake ($5) or chocolate lava cake ($9). Every dessert is made in house, except the caramel ice cream which comes from Plehn’s Bakery “because we go through such volume,” says Cary.

Cary loves working with traditional recipes and ingredients.

Lately on Wednesday nights the restaurant has featured drinks from the 20th century, like the Gin Fizz and Old-Fashioned.These nights are also an excuse for Cary to experiment with recipes for traditional dishes like beaten biscuits and old-fashioned cornbread.

“Meatloaf could go on the menu as a lunch special but (now)

Seared sea scallops with butternut squash risotto and finished with a Huber cider reduction.

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it’s grass-fed beef, a homemade demi (sauce) with it, homemade bread. It’s something as simple as, ‘those are the best mashed potatoes I ever had.’ It’s just mashed potatoes, but we put real butter in it, truffle oil, and garlic.”

Cary has long been a cheerleader for local farmers. Over the years, she has almost developed a food cycle with some of them.

For example, Lilly’s gives its raw fruit and vegetable scraps to MuleFeathers Farm in Henry County to augment its chicken feed.

The restaurant in turn buys its chickens from MuleFeathers. Cary has even added some farm and farmer names to the menu: Fiedler Pork saucisson, Duncan rabbit croquette, Garden of Eden lamb skewer. One of the dishes on the dinner menu is even called God Bless Our Local Farmers Plate. It features cauliflower puree, cannelloni with mushroom, fontina cheese and spinach, and crispy sweet potato ribbons ($19).The dish highlights some of the things that excite Cary most about area growers.

“I remember a wine tasting where I told the people, ‘Everything on your plate except for one item came from within 100 miles of this restaurant.’ That was a really cool thing,” she said. “It hadn’t dawned on me until I was trying to think of something to say. Then I was like, ‘wait a minute, those are bragging rights.’ My advantage is that I grew up on a farm, so using local ingredients was second nature and I have one (a farm) to this day where I can pick tomatoes and apples. It is so much fun to walk in the backdoor and say, ‘Here, I grew a bunch of tomatoes.’ ” F&D

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Lilly’s “God Bless our Local Farmers Plate.”

A mushroom, fontina cheese and spinach cannelloni over a cauliflower puree.

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recipes louisville’s restaurant favorites

Come Back Inn’s

W

When Mark and Gena Wagner decided to open a restaurant bar, they looked to the urban north for their inspiration and to their wallets for location.

Mark Wagner recalled the neighborhood bar of his youth in Chicago, that served “Italian pub grub,” he said. The couple wanted something that had a comfortable tavern feel, where families were welcome and the food was simple and good. “We wanted the place to go get a meatball hoagie and watch the game,” he said.

And so the Come Back Inn opened 13 years ago on Swan Street on the edges of East Louisville and Germantown,“not on the main drag,” Wagner remarked, which at the time was further east on Bardstown Road (a second Come Back Inn opened seven years ago in Jeffersonville). The building, which Wagner thinks is 140 years old, “felt like the right space, and I could afford it.”

People drive from all over town for reasonably-priced, familiar foods like spaghetti and meatballs ($11), Chicago Italian beef sandwiches ($7.75) and antipasti wontons ($6.50). After a few years, Wagner felt he could introduce more adventurous dishes. He sells about seven gallons of the caponata ($6.50) a week, and the creamy gorgonzola pasta with pistachio nuts and chicken ($11) is one of the restaurants most popular dishes.

Giving out exact recipes is tough, says Wagner. Thirteen years ago, the batches were small, but they’ve grown over time.

“I’m using a five-pound bag of cheese,” says Wagner about his antipasti wontons.

“Recipes don’t multiply and divide exactly.”

We’ll take our chances.

30 Winter 2009 www.foodanddine.com

BY SARAH FRITSCHNER | PHOTO BY DAN DRY

Antipasti Wo n t o n s

&Caponata

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Caponata (SERVES 20)

2 eggplants, about 1 pound each Salt 1 /3 cup olive oil 1 /2 medium onion, diced 1 /2 green bell pepper, diced 1 /2 red bell pepper, diced 2 tablespoons minced garlic 2 14- to 15-ounce cans diced tomatoes 1 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes 1 teaspoon black pepper 2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar Trim eggplant and slice it in 1/2-inch thick slices.

Sprinkle the slices on both sides with salt and set them aside on a towel or cooling rack for 60 minutes. Rinse, press gently with a paper towel and cut into 1/2-inch cubes.

Meanwhile, heat the olive oil in a deep, wide, heavy pot set over medium-high heat. Add onion, bell pepper, and garlic and cook 10 minutes, stirring, or until vegetables have softened. Add eggplant and cook 15 minutes more, stirring often. Add tomatoes, red pepper, black pepper, 1 teaspoon salt and vinegar.

Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer 20 minutes, or until eggplant is tender, scraping the bottom of the pan to stir up any eggplant that might be sticking.

Cool. Serve with pita chips.

A n t i p a st i Wo n to n s

"I love a grand hotel.

I adore sweeping into a lavish lobby that looks like it came straight from a 1930s movie set."

– SOUTHERN LIVING

“The English Grill has emerged as the finest restaurant in the city.”

– WINE SPECTATOR

T H E

E N G L I S H

G R I L L

(SERVES 6)

These are not unlike the fried ravioli you find in St. Louis restaurants.Wagner suggests serving Come Back Inn red sauce as a dip. Red sauce is sold at the restaurant, and at Lotsa Pasta, Paul’s Fruit Markets, Burger’s Super Market, Doll’s, and Costco.You can find egg roll wrappers in the produce department of your supermarket.You may have leftover won ton skins — they freeze beautifully.

1 pound mozzarella/provolone cheese mixture, shredded 1 tablespoon dried parsley 1 teaspoon dried oregano 1 teaspoon dried basil 3 thin slices prosciutto diced Vegetable oil 12 ounces wonton wrappers Combine cheese with herbs and prosciutto and mix to distribute seasonings. Use about 2 tablespoons of cheese to fill the wonton.

Turn a wonton wrapper so a corner is toward you. Place the cheese just above the corner and fold the corner up to enclose the cheese. Roll away from you a tiny bit, then fold in the corners on either side.

Continue rolling to enclose filling.

Heat oil to 360 degrees. Add won tons, without crowding, and fry until rich golden brown, about 31/2 minutes. Serve with a red sauce as a dip. F&D

Louisville’s Finest Gourmet Lunch Buffet.

J. GRAHAM’S CAFE

Featuring gourmet soups, salads and entrees – and a decadent dessert display.

All your favorite libations in a stunning turn-of-the-century setting.

THE GRAND LOBBY BAR

DOWNTOWN AT FOURTH & BROADWAY (502) 583-1234 • www.brownhotel.com www.foodanddine.com Winter 2009 31

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easy entertaining brunch

BY TIM AND LORI LAIRD | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

Brunch Basics

Pick a theme, and keep it simple

I

Informal.

It’s the one word that best describes how Tim and Lori Laird throw a party.

Informal doesn’t translate to “disorganized” or even to several of the definitions of “casual.” And it certainly doesn’t translate to “minimal.”

To say that Tim and Lori Laird travel “constantly” for their jobs isn’t putting too fine a point on it.Tim travels internationally as “Chief Entertaining Officer” of Brown-Forman Corp.; Lori, an executive recruiter, works out of an office in Detroit.They travel so much that sometimes they travel just to see each other.

When they’re home in Eastern Jefferson County, they love to entertain friends, and they don’t want to get strung out doing it.

How does a hyper-busy couple pull off large parties at home complete with flowers, matching linens, a wide selection of home-cooked food and homemade party favors, all without stressing? They start with the basics, they work ahead, they help each other, and they keep shopping simple. And of course, practice makes perfect.

Take brunch. “Depending on the holiday, you change the music, the flowers — customize it the way you want it,” said Lori. On Valentine’s Day, it’s roses and romantic music. For Easter,“everything in pastel,” said Lori.

To keep guests moving, and to keep food part of the entertainment, she creates stations: Cajun shrimp and cucumber, candied nuts and fruit kebabs are in the den, Bourbon-glazed pork tenderloin and cedarplanked salmon are in the dining room, the drinks are in the kitchen. “If you don’t want to set up stations,” said Lori, “set it up as a buffet.” Either choice means less work for the host.

The couple’s recipes come from a variety of sources: cookbooks, magazines, inspiration from travel. “I always go to The Joy of Cooking,” said Lori. “I look at a lot of magazines and I read a lot.” Once she gets an idea for a recipe, she says, she tends to personalize it. “Most of them, we’ve adapted or made up ourselves.”

They both like to cook. She likes to bake, and to fiddle with appetizers. Tim likes to grill. He cooks; she plates the food. “He’ll make something and I’ll try to make it look pretty,” said Lori.

Pre-preparation helps them enjoy their own party. “We try to clean, chop, wash all our herbs and lettuces ahead,” said Lori. And she often buys dessert — for this winter brunch she brought petit fours from her favorite bakery in Detroit. “Give yourself a break,” she said. “After a big brunch, a big dessert is not always necessary.”

Even a wide choice of beverages doesn’t mean you need a bartender. The Lairds set out a selection of wines and spirits, and several choices of mixers, from pomegranate juice to pear nectar. Guests can mix and match for themselves; the hosts can relax.

Finally, the Lairds keep shopping simple. The specialty rub for their salmon — Rub With Love — was purchased at Highland Fish Market, “but there certainly are generic rubs out there,” said Tim. Any one of them would work. Most of their recipes use basic ingredients found at nearly any supermarket.That keeps the Lairds in the kitchen, not on the road searching for ingredients.They’re on the road enough.

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easy entertaining brunch

BY TIM AND LORI LAIRD | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

For e very holida y or special occasion, Lori has an idea f or how to theme the brunch. T hese ar e just a few of them.

Theme Brunch Ideas Valentine’s Day Music: Romantic Linen and flower colors: Pinks and reds Party favors: Individually boxed chocolate truffles

Birthday Music: Decade of the guest of honor’s favorite music (50s, 60s, 70s, etc.)

Linen and flower colors: Guest of honor’s favorite colors Party favors: Individually packed cupcakes

Graduation Music: Top 40 Linen and flower colors: School colors Party favors: Personalized plastic cups such as: “Susie Smith’s Graduation Party! Class of 2009.”

These can be used t o drink from at the party then taken home as a f avor.

Bridal and Baby Showers Music: Pop Linen and flower colors: Wedding scheme colors or pink, blue, green or yellow for baby showers Party favors: White or pastel colored Jordan Almonds tied in tulle

Mother ’s Day Music: Classical Linen and flower colors: Mother and grandmothers’ favorite colors Party favors: Picture frames with family pictures

Over the Top Brunch Ideas ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆

Set up a sushi s tation and hire your favorite sushi chef to make signature rolls and appetizers.

Hire a 3-piece musical combo: jazz or classical to fit your theme.

Set up an omelet s tation and hire a chef to make personalized omelets.

Hire a magician, fortune teller or caricature artist for added entertainment.

Fly in special guests to surprise the guest of honor with f amily or friends they never expected to attend.

34 Winter 2009 www.foodanddine.com

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Cedar Plank Salmon

Roasted Red Pepper and Herb Frittata

(SERVES 10 OR 4 AS A MAIN DISH )

(SERVES 10 TO 12)

Cedar planks add flavor to the salmon and they are widely available; you can often find them in supermarkets.

1 cedar plank, soaked in cold water for 20 minutes to 2 hours 1 pound salmon fillet Salt Pepper 1 /2 cup maple syrup Preheat grill t o medium-high.

Remove the plank fr om the water and plac e on the grill f or 3 minutes per side until it begins t o smoke. Plac e salmon on plank, skin side do wn. Season with salt and pepper . T hen drizzle salmon with maple syrup.

Cook f or appr oximately 2 0 minutes or t o medium- well doneness. Serv e salmon on the plank, on a platter.

Note: Watch to make sure plank does not catch fire; if it does, mis t with water bottle.

â–˛

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2 tablespoons olive oil 2 teaspoons salt Pinch freshly ground black pepper 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley leaves 2 tablespoons chopped chives 2 teaspoons chopped fresh basil leaves 2 teaspoons chopped fresh oregano leaves 12 eggs, beaten 1 /2 cup sliced roasted red peppers 1 /2 cup crumbled goat cheese Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Set the oven rack in the top half of the oven.

Pour olive oil into a 10-inch oven-proof nonstick skillet and place over medium-high heat.

Meanwhile, c ombine salt, pepper , parsle y, chives, basil, or egano and eggs. Beat well. Pour the egg mixture into the hot skillet, reduce the heat t o medium and c ook about 3 minut es, occasionally pulling the egg away from the sides of the pan.

Add the roasted red peppers and goat cheese, remove the skillet from the heat and slide it int o the oven.

Cook until the center of the frittata is set, about 12 t o 15 minutes.

Remove fr om the o ven and let c ool 10 minut es. Slide a spatula around the edges of the pan then shak e the pan t o loosen the bottom and gently slide ont o a serving platter.

Slice into 12 wedges and serve. Can be served hot or cool.

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Bourbon-Glazed Pork Tenderloin (SERVES 10 TO 12) 1

/4 /4 1 /4 3 1 /4 1 1

1 /4 2 1

1

cup Bourbon cup soy sauce cup (packed) brown sugar cloves garlic, minced cup Dijon mustard teaspoon minced fresh ginger (or 1/4 teaspoon powdered ginger) teaspoon Worcestershire sauce cup vegetable oil 1-pound pork tenderloins baguette, sliced Dijon mustard Roasted red peppers, sliced into 20 strips

Combine the Bourbon, so y sauce, brown sugar , garlic, mus tard, ginger , Worcestershire sauc e and v egetable oil in a lar ge bowl. Whisk until br own sugar has dis solved. Set aside 1/2 cup for basting.

Place marinade and pork t enderloins in a zipper-s tyle plastic bag and place in the refrigerator overnight.

Bring to room temperature. Grill at medium-high or bak e at 350 degr ees for appr oximately 15 t o 2 5 minut es.

Baste often while cooking. Pork should reach 165 degrees internally.

To serve: Spread mustard on baguette slice, t op with pork t enderloin slic e and roasted red pepper strip.

Maple Glazed Bacon (SERVES 10) 1 pound bacon, thick cut /2 cup maple syrup

1

Preheat o ven t o 400 degr ees.

Place bacon on lightly greased baking sheet. Bake 10 minutes.

Remove fr om o ven and brush generously with maple s yrup. R eturn pan t o oven f or 5 minut es or desir ed doneness.

Transfer the bacon to paper towel to dr ain. Plac e on platt er, serv e immediately.

Tip: Like a little spic e in y our life? Try sprinkling the bac on with ca yenne or smoked hot paprika for a little heat to go with the sweet.

36 Winter 2009 www.foodanddine.com

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Cajun Shrimp and Cucumber (SERVES 10 TO 12) 1 pound raw shrimp, peeled, tail off 2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil 4 teaspoons Cajun seasoning (one of your favorites) 4 teaspoons Southern Comfort Tabasco, several dashes (optional) Salt Pepper 1 English (seedless) cucumber, sliced into rounds 1 /2 cup sour cream Paprika Marinate the shrimp in the oliv e oil, Cajun seasoning, Southern Comfort and Tabasco for 10 minutes.

SautĂŠ shrimp in a hot pan until cooked thr ough and jus t pink or opaque in c olor. Remove from heat; season to taste with salt and pepper.

To serv e: Place a dollop of sour cream on the cucumber and t op with a cooked shrimp. Garnish with a dusting of paprika.

Sweet and Spicy SoC o Nuts (MAKES 4 CUPS) 2 2 1 /4 4

tablespoons butter tablespoons brown sugar cup Southern Comfort cups raw nuts (almonds, walnut halves, pecan halves) Kosher salt

Heat oven to 200 degrees. In a small pan melt butter and brown sugar. Add Southern C omfort and remove from heat. Stir t o blend.

Put the nuts in a bo wl and drizzle with butt er mixture. Stir t o coat the nuts, then spread in a single layer on a baking sheet.

Bake for 20 minut es. Sprinkle with salt t o taste. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Brunch Des serts Since you have prepared all of y our brunch dishes w e suggest you give yourself a break and purchase dessert. Great ideas include: Chocolate cups filled with T uaca, Chambord or your favorite liqueur Mini fruit tarts Bite sized pecan pies Petit fours Chocolate truffles

Melon, Prosciutto and Mo zzarella Skewers (SERVES 10) 1 10 10 10

small (about 2 pounds) cantaloupe, cut into medium chunks small fresh water-packed mozzarella balls thin slices prosciutto, cut in half lengthwise, gathered into ruffle 8-inch wooden skewers

Skewer: 1 melon piece, 1 ruffled prosciutto piece, 1 mozzarella ball, another prosciutto piece and another melon piece on each skewer.

Can be prepared 2 hours ahead, c over and refrigerate. Bring to room temperature about 15 minutes before serving.

To serve: Arrange skewers on platter or poke

into a melon half.

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Having a “house drink” makes bar set-up easier on the host. Tim Laird recommends variations on two themes that are suitable for brunch: Bloody Marys and mimosas. You can supplement these stations with wines, beers and soft drinks or special teas.

Mimosa Station For a twist on the classic mimosa (Champagne and orange juic e), set out Champagne and some of the juices listed below and let your guests create their own signature mimosas.

Cranberry Guava Peach Pomegranate

Pear Mango Pineapple

HELPFUL TIPS ◆ Club soda can be subs tituted for the Champagne for an alcohol-free mimosa.

◆ Use wine glasses for Champagne instead of Champagne glasses. They are more stable, easier to drink from and eas y to pour into, especially when adding juices and other mixers.

◆ In addition to vodka, set out Bourbon on y our Bloody Mary bar. It gives a nice Kentucky twist to the standard recipe.

◆ Float a few pomegranate seeds in glasses of Champagne. They rise and fall like a lava lamp.

38 Winter 2009 www.foodanddine.com

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DESIGN / BUILD “From concept to reality.”

• Real Estate Brokerage & Site Selection • Consulting & Negotiations • Architectural & Interior Design • Construction, FF&E • Financing & Investments Looking for an opportunity to open your own restaurant, purchase an existing one, or just need some consulting and advice?

Call, text or email the Houston group for a confidential meeting or review of strategies that might work for you. We can even help you renegotiate your lease to more favorable terms.

AVAILABLE PROPERTIES FOR SALE:

Bloody Mary Station For a fun Bloody Mary s tation set out a pit cher of basic t omato juice or Bloody Mary mix along with v odka and an y or all of the following garnishes so your guests can build their own.

Horseradish Steak sauce Finely grated Parmesan or blue cheese Celery salt and c elery stalks Pickled mushrooms Pickled asparagus spears Pickled string beans Pickled green tomatoes (Tomolives) Olives stuffed with garlic or blue cheese Cooked and peeled shrimp Hot sauce Jalapeño peppers Pepper flakes Balsamic vinegar Lemon and lime w edges

Jazz Factory 815 West Market St. Louisville, KY 40202 $75,000

Westport General Store 7008 Hwy. 524 Westport, KY 40077 $385,000

Upscale Restaurant 2116 Bardstown Rd. Louisville, KY 40205 $345,000

Stratto’s 318 Lewis & Clark Pkwy.

Clarksville, IN 47131 $1,425,000

Blue Nile India Palace 558 S Fifth Street 408 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy.

Louisville, KY 40202 Clarksville, IN 47129 $75,000 $1,100,000 Bistro Mexican Restaurant & Bar 2206 Frankfort Ave. 1370 Veterans Parkway Louisville, KY 40206 Clarksville, IN 47129 $85,000 $175,000 Ethnic Restaurant 9424 Shelbyville Rd. Louisville, KY 40222 $125,000

Wings To Go 4324 Charlestown Rd. New Albany, IN 47150 $159,999

For a complete list of properties go to: www.loopnet.com/MyListings/houston@ thehoustongroup.net

Houston D. Jones, Jr. 13121 Eastpoint Park Blvd.

Eastpoint Office Park, Suite 7G Louisville, KY 40243 502.419.7799 • 502.499.9916 Fax www.thehoustongroup.net

houston@thehoustongroup.net www.foodanddine.com Winter 2009 39

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BY DAVID LANGE

A

Roasting Coffee at Home As the popularity of coffee grows, so does the interest in how coffee evolves from the tree to the cup. Just as many people are making home brew beer or wine in the basement, others are experiencing the complex transformation of green coffee beans to rich roasted ones.

A beverage made from green coffee beans would be bitter and extremely acidic — in short, undrinkable.The relatively simple act of roasting coffee used to be a common home task, but the process was taken over by large companies in the late 1800s and today’s roasting has become shrouded in mystery.The growing popularity of gourmet coffee has sparked an interest in reviving the traditions of roasting coffee at home. Fortunately, today we have the advantages of modern knowledge and devices to make coffee roasting easier than it was over a century ago.

During the roasting process, the green coffee changes dramatically. Roasting forces water out of the bean, causing it to dry and expand in the process. The colors darken and at the end of roasting the beans are about 18 percent lighter in weight and 50 to 100 percent larger than when they were green.

Some of the beans’ natural sugars are transformed into carbon dioxide, and others are caramelized into the complex flavors that make a good coffee. After roasting, the coffee continues to “de-gas” (emitting carbon dioxide), which helps protect the delicate flavor and aroma of the coffee.

Basic Requirements for Roasting Coffee To roast your own coffee successfully at home, the following basic requirements must be met. There are several methods available to home roasters that meet these requirements, from a stovetop popcorn popper to a fully automated roasting appliance. ◆ Beans must be heated to temperatures of 370 degrees to 540 degrees. ◆ The coffee beans must be in constant motion to prevent scorching or uneven roasting. ◆ The beans must be cooled quickly to prevent overroasting. ◆ Roasting coffee produces smoke which must be vented properly. ◆ The roasted beans shed the outer skin during the roasting process and the light weight skins (called chaff) can make a mess if not handled properly.

Using a Stovetop Roaster 1. It is recommended that you purchase a crank style popcorn popper (such as a Whirley Pop) or this method can be used with a simple old-fashioned cast iron skillet or heavy frying pan. If using a frying pan, make sure to use one that does not have absorbed cooking smells (unless you want curry flavored coffee!), and be prepared for a somewhat uneven looking roast. Roasting on the stovetop takes longer and will produce a roast with more body and deep notes but will lose some of the bright notes and aroma of a faster roast, such as those you get with machines that use air convection.

Note: The use of a candy or deep-fry thermometer will greatly increase the accuracy of the roast and is highly recommended.

Start by heating the frying pan or roaster on the stovetop to a medium setting, or until temperature reaches about 475 degrees (put a thermometer right on top of the beans). Add up to 8 ounces (about 2 cups) of green coffee beans and close the lid and begin turning the crank (or stirring or shaking) constantly.

2. Continue stirring. Beans must be agitated constantly for an even roast. At a minimum, beans must be stirred every 30 seconds. In 4 to 7 minutes the beans will start to make crackling sounds. At this time coffee aroma and smoke will start to appear. If you have a fan hood, turn it on now, or open the window.

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3. About a minute after the first crack, check the beans’ color frequently (once a minute) until the beans have reached the desired roast color.

4. Once the beans are roasted to your satisfaction, immediately remove from heat and pour into a large metal colander to cool.

Toss or stir the beans to remove excess chaff and speed the cooling process.

Gas or Convection Oven Roasting If you have a good quality gas oven or a high temperature convection oven (that heats to at least 450 degrees), you can roast coffee in larger quantities in a few simple steps.

Oven roasting usually produces a somewhat uneven roast because there is very little air flow, but the taste can be rich and complex for this very reason. You will need a flat baking pan that has been perforated with many small holes that are close together. It should have shallow sides.You can find such a pan at many gourmet kitchen supply stores, or you can make one with a sturdy baking sheet and a power drill with a 1/8-inch metal bit. Holes should be spaced about 1/2-inch apart and small enough so the beans do not fall through.

1. Preheat oven to 500 to 540 degrees. Put the green coffee in the pan so the beans are one layer deep and close together, and covering the entire surface of the pan.

Place the pan on the middle oven shelf.

2. Roast for 15 to 20 minutes, or until desired roast is reached. If roast takes longer than 20 minutes, you should roast at a higher temperature. Every oven is different, so it may take several batches to achieve the best results. By taking notes, you should be able to duplicate these results every time.

3. Once the beans are roasted to your satisfaction, immediately remove from heat and pour into a large metal colander to cool. Toss or stir the beans to remove excess chaff and speed the cooling process.

Guidelines for All Roasting Methods The most important consideration when roasting your own coffee is knowing when to stop the roast. As you become

more experienced you will be able to stop the roast with more precision while relying on the following methods: Color: Start with some roasted coffee that is roasted to the style you prefer.

Temperature: Use a candy or deep fry thermometer to measure the temperature of the beans while roasting. If using a roasting machine, this method is not necessary.

Smell: When the beans are nearly done the smell will change from a wet grassy vegetable smell to a coffee smell. As you gain experience, your sense of smell will become more refined.

Sound: Once the beans get hot enough they start to crackle as the water in the coffee turns to steam and is forced out.

There are two distinct stages of cracking, commonly referred to as first and second crack.

Time: All other factors being equal, such as type and weight of the beans and the roasting temperature, you can duplicate previous efforts by timing the duration of the roast and recording this information for each type of green coffee you roast.

This method is especially useful when roasting coffee in an oven or with a coffee roasting apparatus.

Cooling the Beans and Removing Chaff As soon as a batch of coffee is done roasting, it should be cooled as quickly as possible. The coffee beans will continue roasting from residual internal heat even after the heat source is removed.To speed the cooling process if roasting with an oven, stovetop, or campfire method, dump the hot beans into a colander immediately after removing from the heat source. If you have a large quantity of beans, using 2 colanders is even more efficient. Pour the beans back and forth between the 2 colanders slowly. If you do this outside and there is a slight wind you can effectively remove the chaff this way as well. It is not necessary to remove every bit of chaff as it will not affect the flavor in small quantities.

Venting the Roasting Smoke Roasting coffee produces a bit of smoke, and this will have to be vented if you roast

coffee indoors. A stovetop exhaust fan is typically adequate to vent smoke from most roasting efforts unless a large quantity of coffee is roasted very dark (the darker the roast, the more smoke is produced). In the absence of an exhaust fan, a portable fan in front of an open window will usually take care of the smoke.

The 48-Hour Wait To Prime Time Fresh roasted coffee reaches its peak flavor and aroma about 24 hours after roasting. An additional 24-hour rest period is not necessary but is preferred by many coffee lovers to allow the beans to fully develop their flavor and aroma.

The rest period allows excess carbon dioxide to dissipate and permits the coffee bean chemistry to stabilize.

There are also available various home coffee roasters that range in price from $89 to over $300.These are for the very dedicated enthusiasts and can be very complicated for novices. So you may want to start with a little easier method and then work your way up to more advanced methods.

Coffee may be purchased through several venues, particularly on the Internet.

However, buyer beware! Just like in the boom of the specialty coffee industry 25 years ago, there are pitfalls.There are many non-coffee experts looking to make a fast buck by simply buying a big bag of coffee, cutting it into small bags of coffee and selling it.

Buying, cup-testing and knowing coffee is a prerequisite to being in the business of selling raw green coffee to the home roaster. If you expect to get good beans, you have to find a reliable source who knows coffee. In my 18 years in the industry I have seen some raunchy beans and some of them look really good. No one throws these beans away, they just pass them along. Find a good reliable source that knows how to cup coffee and has a good, long-standing reputation before buying your beans.

Coffee roasting is not an exact science, so be prepared to try and try again until you master the perfect roast. Become part of this rapidly expanding and exciting new phenomenon and start roasting your own coffee beans. You’ll be the envy of the coffee crowd in your area. F&D www.foodanddine.com Winter 2009 41

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people and places profiles

M

BY MICHAEL L. JONES | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

Keep ’em Smiling Morris’ Deli employs the personal t ouch that keeps customers loyal year after year Morris’ Liquor & Deli is a small place, but it has a lot going on.

Located on Taylorsville Road near the intersection with Bardstown Road, Morris’ houses no less than four businesses. One is a liquor store with a wide selection of spirits and a walk-in beer closet with about 300 imports. Another is a small deli, renowned for its smoked turkeys and country ham, which sells sandwiches, homemade soups and salads. In addition to the liquor sales and the lunch business, Morris’ also does liquor catering for weddings and special events, as well as food catering. Owner John Morris said things can get hectic with so much going on in one place, but it works because all of the businesses operate with the same motto.

“I believe, if you give customers a good product at a reasonable price and they walk out smiling, they’ll be back,” Morris said.

“If they don’t leave smiling, shame on me.”

Despite its small size, Morris’ has a big reputation in the city.

42 Winter 2009 www.foodanddine.com

For more than two decades, patrons have enjoyed the deli’s variety of sandwiches, including blackened chicken breast and shredded pork and lamb, or one of six soups that are served daily.

A sandwich with two sides or soup will only set you back about $10. Customers order at the register and wait for their food next to a shelf that is loaded with chips and other snacks. The deli has limited seating, only two tables at the window and two stools at the counter. Despite the crowded environment, there is a group of old-timers who gather at Morris’ almost every morning to swap tall tales.They’ve been dubbed the Liars’ Club.

“The Liar’s Club, that’s a hard group to join,” Morris said. “I’ve got some nice friends that come here that are elderly.They come in to talk about what’s going on in the world and tell old liar’s stories. I think (U.S. Senator) Mitch McConnell named it the Liar’s Club. And he’s not a member of it, by the way.”

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The crew from Morris’ Deli: (from left) Joe and Gail Brockman, owner John Morris and his son Chuck Morris.

Morris’ Deli 2228 Taylorsville Rd.

(502) 458-1668

The U.S. Senate Minority Leader is just one of the local luminaries who make Morris’ a regular stop when they are in town. Attorney General Jack Conway and his father Tom are also regular customers, as is Metro Councilman Jim King, who played baseball with Morris when they were kids.The deli has also served the late comedian and Louisville native, Foster Brooks, and former 60 Minutes correspondent, Harry Reasoner.

Morris’ Liquor & Deli is located in a building with a long history. It was originally an ice house. In the early days of the city, there was a turnaround on Taylorsville Road for customers with their horse and buggies. People would pull up in front of the building and load blocks of ice. Morris uses the old ice cage as a walk-in beer closet. He keeps it constantly at 19 degrees because beer freezes at 17 degrees.

“If you take a libation from this place, it’s guaranteed to be ice cold,” he said. “I have 300 imported beers. I used to arrange them by country but it confused everybody, so now they are arranged in alphabetical order.”

Morris grew up near the deli in the Seneca Gardens neighborhood. When he was a child in the 1950s, the building housed two separate businesses: Victory Food Mart and Karem Deeb’s Deli. The two businesses were next door to each other until the

owner of Victory died and Deeb bought the store and combined the two businesses under one roof. Deeb, who still owns the building, sold the businesses to his son-in-law and daughter, and Morris purchased them in 1986.

Morris lives in a house that was built for his paternal grandmother. He grew up in a big family, one girl and four boys. He attended St. Agnes Parish School and then St. Xavier High School until both his parents died and then he switched to Atherton High School. After his parent’s death, Morris was raised by his siblings.

He said, “We did what was right I guess, took care of each other.”

Morris went off to college in North Carolina, where he played football. But he ended up transferring to the University of Louisville, and graduated with a psychology degree in 1977. Along the way, he married his sister-in-law’s sister. “Two brothers married two sisters,” he said. “My brother had gone to California with the Navy and that’s where he met his wife. My wife moved to Louisville with her sister.”

Julie Ann Redman Morris passed away in March 2008, after a long battle with cancer. But her husband credits her with much of the success at the deli and liquor store. He had limited culinary experience when he decided to buy the businesses. While he was in college Morris waited tables at several area restaurants, but after www.foodanddine.com Winter 2009 43

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people and places profiles

BY MICHAEL L. JONES | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

graduation he worked as a salesman in real estate, heavy construction, and then the meat business. “(My wife) always backed me no matter what it was,” Morris said.“It was like anything. It was an investment and she was scared, but it was what I wanted to do. I like people and I wanted to serve them, and it was close to our house. Karem was known for the country hams. My wife and I added the soups and the smoked stuff, as in the smoked turkey and the barbecue. We always tried to have a friendly face.”

The deli still uses Julie Ann Morris’ potato salad recipe. The employees also carry on her tradition of service with a smile and vigilance against waste. The ham salad, for example, is made from the shaving from the country hams. In fact, almost everything at the deli is done on site, from smoking hams and turkeys to making the soups (vegetable beef, white bean, broccoli cheese, chicken noodle, chili, and tomato basil) that are served daily.

Four years ago, Morris opened a second location in the downtown YMCA. It is operated by his son, Chuck, one of his two children. Folks at the Y “were looking for someone who had a personal touch with sandwiches, something for members of the Y. They come there to exercise, so you can’t put too much weight on them,” says Morris.

Between the two locations, the liquor and food catering, Morris’ Liquor & Deli is as busy as it’s ever been. Morris said they’ve catered parties as big as 2,500 people and shipped food all over the world.

He’s done this with a limited number of full-time employees.

“I’ve go a lot of guys that work somewhere else but come in and help out now and then when they can.” he said. “The deli, which closes a half-hour before the store, is open every day. It’s only closed four days of the year : New Year’s Day, Easter, Father’s Day and Mother’s Day. Those are the only four days I take off. Labor Day, Memorial Day and Thanksgiving, I run a shortened shift, 11 to 3. I let everybody else off and I’m the only one here.”

Although he still works pretty much every day, Morris said he’s putting in fewer hours. He’s slowly turning more control of the day-to-day operations over to his son Chuck and the longtime manager Joe Brockman at the Taylorsville Road location. “Joe and my son pretty much run it,” he said. “I just get first count on the money and pay the bills. I try to stay behind the scenes.”

A lot has changed in his original business and in the neighborhood since Morris first took over the deli and liquor store. Not all of it is welcome. “Change, that’s scary, because that’s how you know you’re getting old,” he said. “We used to have a hardware store there, a gas station on the corner, another (locally-owned) restaurant across the street. We lost a lot of small businesses.

Everybody just wants to go big and you lose the flavor of the neighborhood.That’s why I try to keep things at my business true to the original values. People enjoy the concept of being treated as friends.The great thing about this place is that you can go sit at a table with anybody and watch the traffic go by and take a break from everything else in the world.” F&D

Pulled pork barbecue with Dr. Smoke’s barbecue beans and creamy cole slaw.

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Baked ham sandwich with Swiss and American cheeses with a side of house-made potato salad.

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people and places profiles

BY MICHAEL L. JONES | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

Not Your Typical Mexican Restaurant

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La Rosita breaks from the pack by presenting traditional Mexican dishes not found elsewhere One visit to the La Rosita Mexican Grill in New Albany will make you question everything you ever believed about Mexican cuisine. Other Mexican restaurants in the Kentuckiana area offer endless variations of rice, beans, salsa, beef, and chicken and call it Mexican food. Owner Israel Landin mixes those staples with fresh vegetables, homemade sausage, and lots of seafood to recreate a world that most Kentuckiana diners never knew existed.

La Rosita’s menu boasts that it is “the shortest trip to Mexico you’ll ever take” because each bite of food reflects memories of Landin’s childhood in Mexico City.

“Mexico is a peninsula,” Landin said. “It is surrounded by the Gulf of Mexico and the Pacific. Can you imagine being surrounded by these big oceans and not having seafood? I have eaten seafood so fresh it was swimming away when I tried to bite it. … My mission is to have the dishes that we have in Mexico, the dishes from different parts of Mexico. Pambazo (a grilled sandwich dipped in a homemade sauce) comes from Mexico City. It’s a traditional snack. What is Cochinita Pibil? Cochinita Pibil means in Mayan, ‘pork cooked underground.’ Of course, we don’t cook it underground here, but this comes from Mexico.”

Native American tribes in Mexico domesticated maize nearly 9,000 years ago, and they have been cooking with it ever since.

They also used other ingredients that are still part of Mexican cuisine: chiles, chocolate, tomatoes, beans, jicama, and avocado, to name a few. But the Spanish invasion into Central and South America in the 1500s expanded the boundaries of Mexican cooking. Along with their swords and Catholic religion, Spaniards brought along rice, garlic, wine, and onions.

Today, Mexico is the 14th largest country in the world and it has the 12th largest economy. While popular culture usually emphasizes the country’s tropical locales, the Mexican climate is as diverse as that of the United States.The median temperatures in the country’s Southern region are in the mid-70s. Varying climate

La Rosita

La Rosita owner Israel Landin

(812) 944-3620 / (812) 948-7967 1515 E. Market / 113 Grant Line Ctr.

and soil quality accounts for the wide range of available ingredients in certain areas of the country. Landin says each of Mexico’s 31 states has its own local favorites and even unique variations on popular national dishes.

“A lot of the (La Rosita) clients, they think the enchilada is a tortilla, stuff it with anything, roll it and cover it with cheddar cheese or some kind of tomato sauce,” Landin said.“In Mexico, we 46 Winter 2009 www.foodanddine.com

have something like 250 kinds of enchiladas. They are sometimes stuffed inside with things. Some enchiladas are covered, like the way we make them in Mexico City. Mexican food is very diverse.”

Landin grew up with a large extended family that included his mother and two younger sisters, his grandparents, aunts and

cousins. In all, there were 12 kids in the house. Landin learned early on to fend for himself in the kitchen.“I started cooking when I was like five years old,” he said. “I used to get up in the morning and I’d put a chair next to the stove so I could put a pan with lard in it to make my fried eggs. I’d put some bread with it, walk down the street to school eating my fried eggs. That’s when I started cooking.”

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La Rosita’s Cochinita Pibil, Mayan style roasted pork cooked in banana leaves.

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La Rosita’s tilapia and shrimp empapelados.

Landin also started working quite young. He was still a boy when he got his first job in a butcher shop cutting meat and learning to make sausage, which he still does to this day at La Rosita. This occupation naturally led him to a career in the food service industry, but at first he was selling the food to restaurants instead of cooking it.

“I came to America in 1985,” Landin, 42, said.“I worked for a cheese company for 14 years. I came from working the warehouse all the way to sales manager. I was transferred from California to open a new business in Chicago. Finally, I was approached by a company that sold 48,000 items from all over the world. We had food from Asia, Central America, Italy, Mexico, everywhere.”

It was his second wife and La Rosita partner, Lidia, and her four daughters who inadvertently pushed him to make a career change.“The passion for me was cooking; I like to cook,” Landin said. “When I would cook for my family in Chicago, my stepdaughters used to tell all of their friends, ‘You know, my dad is a chef.’ I used to tell them, ‘you know, I’m not a chef, I just like to cook.’ But they said, ‘You cook so good, you come out with all of these creations, that’s what a chef is.’”

Since Landin was a boy, people have told him that he has a gift, but was he good enough? The only way to find out was to go to the Culinary Arts School of Chicago. “I went and spoke to the director,” Landin remembered. “She was very impressed with my knowledge of the food and all of this stuff.

She put me aboard to start taking class. It was like six or eight months, a lot of teaching in a short period. The master chefs were always putting me in charge of the groups. We were cooking 500 meals everyday, from six in the morning, for poor people, hospitals and all this stuff.”

Landin felt as if he was working, but he wasn’t learning. He already knew how to cook the food that he wanted to make, so he decided to drop out of school. It was during a period of confusion about his future that a friend who had moved to Clarksville, Ind., asked Landin to come for a visit.To his surprise, the man who had always lived in big cities found he loved everything about Southern Indiana except the Mexican food.

“I started trying some of the restaurants around here and the Mexican food was not something that I know,” Landin said. “Everything was like Tex-Mex, Americanized. I was going around in my head, do I want to continue to work for these big companies or do I want to go back to school. Then I decided that I didn’t have to go back to school. I have all the knowledge and I’m very creative in my recipes. I think that people in this town needed a place where they could try what was real, authentic Mexican food.”

Thus, the idea for La Rosita, “the rose,” was born.

The original La Rosita was a small taco shack on Grant Line Road in New Albany. “In a taco stand you just have a couple people cooking on the grill making tacos,” Landin said.

“I found a little, little place here in New Albany. It was like 10 by 10, the size of one room. I built my little taco stand there.

We opened in August 2005. By September, we were getting big reviews in LEO, Velocity, and The Courier-Journal. People would eat our rib-eye steak ($2.50) or pork tacos ($3.50) and say they were never going back to Taco Bell. Most of our customers had never heard of the pambazo ($7.49) until we came here.”

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Things went so well that they opened a full-service La Rosita on Market Street in New Albany in 2006. The larger space is decorated modestly with sombreros and other souvenirs from Mexico. But it’s in the expanded menu where the second restaurant excels.

One of the most popular dishes at La Rosita is the empapelados ($15), prodigious amounts of tilapia and shrimp topped with fresh onions, mushrooms, bacon and a choice of seven different marinades. The contents of the empapelados are wrapped in corn leaves and aluminum foil then steamed to mingle their flavors. The dish is served with corn tortillas and a choice of three homemade sauces. Another entrée is the chorizo and eggs, a mild Mexican sausage and scrambled eggs served with rice and beans. Seafood lovers must try the camarones a la diabla (shrimp in a hot, spicy sauce) or camarones al mojod ajo (garlic shrimp). Both are only $10. In fact the most expensive meal on La Rosita’s menu is only $15.

Landin keeps the por tions big and the food affordable, because he wants to help the neighbors in his new home appreciate the food of his old one. And it seems to be working.

“We were accepted by the people in Indiana,” Landin said.

“People tell other people and business keeps growing. When people leave our restaurant, I hope they feel a little bit closer to Mexico.” F&D

A trifecta of good eats.

A pambazo with a taquitos and a gordita.

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BY ROGER A. BAYLOR | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

A Beer Lovers Oasis – in Clarksville?

Old-fashioned mom ’n’ pop carv es a niche with huge selection of cr aft beers

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In a world gone global, the feat of a local, family-owned business surviving more than three decades in operation is worth examining, especially when the family has met two typically difficult challenges: Transitioning from one generation to the next, and reinventing the business to adapt to an ever changing marketplace.

Clarksville’s Keg Liquors has vaulted to the upper echelon of package liquor stores in the Louisville metro area since Todd Antz began running the family business, especially when you’re looking for beer. Antz’s strategy for success is a broad, high-quality selection of craft beer and imports — up to 500 choices, when most stores known for good selections carry about 100.

Attracting beer aficionados from far and wide, his strategy seems to be paying off.

Recently I sat down with Antz and asked him a few questions between beers.

Can you briefly trace the history of Keg Liquors?

Keg Liquors was founded in 1970 as a combination package liquor store and tavern (closed in 2001). My parents, Keith and Phyllis Antz, bought the store in 1976 and operated it until 2005, when my wife and I returned to Southern Indiana and bought them out.

Since r eturning, y ou’ve br ought a ne w dir ection and erected a new building. How did the transition work?

My parents did a wonderful job through many different changes in liquor laws, local competition, and their own business philosophies for adapting to the market. When I took over, it was a stable and established business, and I had them there to help with questions.They’re impressed and pleased with the new facility.

As a f ather of tw o, do y ou think that one or both of your daught ers might e ventually f ollow in y our footsteps?

My parents were shocked when I asked them if they would sell me their business. However, living the corporate life in Arizona, my wife and I had learned that the grass isn’t always greener elsewhere. Still, it was right to leave and spread my wings.

Had I tried running the business right out of college with no life experience, I wouldn’t have done half the things that I’ve done so far. I’ll take the same route with my two daughters. Let them go out and lead their own lives, and if it brings them back into the business, I know they will be better for making that decision themselves.

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With as many as 500 brands of beer in stock, a world of new options are available to Louisville area beer lovers.

When did y ou kno w that specializing in craft beer was going t o be the priority at Keg Liquors?

In my travels, I learned a lot about beer. Returning to town, I saw a lack of stores carrying good beer, and yet thriving local microbreweries confirmed that there was a specific Southern Indiana market. I saw a niche to make Keg Liquors a destination business, and not just another place to get a six-pack and a pint of whiskey.

My father let me know in no uncertain terms, “that stuff will never sell in Clarksville,” but I had passion for craft beer and felt it could be successful. I started slowly, adding good beers into inventory and starting beer tastings to get the word out. As our customer base grew, it allowed me to add more beers to the list.

There are places in America that have a larger selection, but I believe ours is one of the best anywhere. A customer once said that Keg Liquors has the best selection per square inch of any store he’d previously visited. I don’t pad my numbers by stocking marginal beers. Instead, I select the best beers available, and work from there. Our larger new building has helped, and I’m holding true to plan by bringing only the best of the best beers into it.

There’s an old adage that beverage alcohol is r ecession-proof. Do y ou believe it?

The past year was trying for craft beer, with hops and barley shortages, and price

and shipping hikes on top of challenging economic times. Everything pointed to a sales decline, but craft beer increased almost 7 percent. The overall beer market grew around 1 percent, so it is refreshing to see the craft strength. Craft beer is affordable compared to wine and spirits, and it is not a huge price leap to go from macro-lager to microbrew. Once someone gets into drinking good beers, it is almost impossible to go back, and people seem to be sticking to craft beers.

I also work in styles rather than specific brands. Weather doesn’t completely dictate my choice of style, and I’ll just as soon open a huge black Imperial Stout in July as a thirst-quenching India Pale Ale. Personally, I tend to be a dark beer drinker, lending myself more to ales than lagers, but it is tough to limit yourself. A Belgian Strong Ale or Quadruple hits my sweet spot every time.

Do you have any general advice for customers seeking enlight enment as t o the bes t beer f or drinking with certain foods?

The segment will continue to grow, and the passion won’t be waning any time soon. While I see more craft breweries opening, I also see consolidation, as breweries combine to meet business needs, but people, not faceless corporations, run most craft breweries, and that’s a huge part of the appeal. You can go to a beer festival and actually talk with the people who come up with the recipes and create batches by hand. I hope the industry never loses this important personal touch.

Also, one trend coming is craft beer in cans, which are superior for preserving the quality of beer, especially by protecting it from harmful light. Cans are lighter and easier to transport, and have numerous advantages over glass bottles. Because today’s cans are lined with a water-based coating, you won’t taste metal — but you’re supposed to pour the beer into a glass, anyway! F&D

Beer is diverse and can complement many different foods, but there are so many styles that it can be daunting to make pairings. My best advice is to throw caution to the wind and keep tr ying different combinations. You can complement foods, but it’s also fun to contrast foods with beers. My general rules are the old wine rules: Keep sweet with sweet and tart with tart, but don’t be afraid to enliven your palate with different combinations.

Nothing tastes better to me than seafood with a spicy wasabi sauce, paired with a hoppy beer.

When I’m ask ed about m y favorite beers, I always respond in terms of beer s tyles, not specific br ands.

What about you?

Where do y ou think cr aft beer will be in five years?

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recipes cooking class

BY SARAH FRITSCHNER | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

Ethnic Influenced Cooking with a world of flavors

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It’s like a culinary Rorschach test. If you say “ethnic” to Sullivan University chef Katie Payne, she’s likely to say “Asian.”

“I just love Asian,” says Payne, who has taught the international food course at Sullivan for the last four years. “I think it’s the flavors — the sweet, sour, salty — all that is really pronounced in those cuisines.”

So when Food & Dining asked her to share some favorite ethnic recipes, she headed East. Her sea bass is rubbed with Korean chili paste, ginger, soy sauce and other Asian seasonings, served with a Japanese-inspired miso vinaigrette and a side tat soi that leans Korean.

Even when Payne starts with a Middle Eastern theme based on lamb chops and hummus, she reaches to Asia, using edamame beans instead of chickpeas, and garnishing the dish with Chinese hoisin.

Her co-worker, chef Collen Engle, also started in Asia with his choice of Chinese Tea Smoked Duck. But that might be expected. He spent part of his summer there, cooking for athletes, coaches and training partners at the

“high performance center” during the Olympics. Ironically, he cooked “mostly American dishes.”

But his day job, like Payne’s, includes an international foods class, which takes students around the world through 13 cuisines in 10 weeks. In China alone they learn five different regions. This smoked, then steamed, then panseared duck teaches students not only a variety of cooking techniques characteristic of this Hunan dish, but about cooking duck itself. “Students aren’t big duck fans to start with,” says Engle.

He chose to share this recipe because “it would be an interesting challenge for the home cook.” His second recipe is a relatively simple classic, the well-loved Thai coconut soup.

Both chefs say they generally head out Third Street for their specialty Asian ingredients. At the back of Iroquois Manor shopping center, the Valu Market stocks a wide range of Asian and other international ingredients; across Third Street, there are two Vietnamese markets within a block that carry a wide mix of ingredients from countries all over Asia.

Sea Bass with Tat Soi and Miso Vinaigrette

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Chinese Tea Smoked Duck with Multi Grain Salad

Lamb Chop with Savory CrĂŞpes and Edamame Hummus

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Guest Chef

Katie Payne Sea Bass with Tat Soi and Miso Vinaigrette (SERVES 2) 2 1 1 /4 2 1 1 1 2 1 1 1

6-ounce sea bass filets teaspoon sugar teaspoon black pepper teaspoons Korean chili paste (gochu jang) teaspoon soy sauce teaspoon sesame oil teaspoon rice wine tablespoons chopped scallion garlic clove, minced teaspoon minced ginger teaspoon toasted sesame seeds

Mix all ingredients except sesame seeds and rub onto fish. Place on baking sheet and bake at 400 degrees until fish is firm.

Garnish with toasted sesame seeds.

For the Tat Soi (Asian spinach): 1 cup fresh tat soi or spinach 4 teaspoons soy sauce 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 scallion, minced 1 /2 teaspoon sugar 1 /2 teaspoon sesame oil Blanch greens in boiling water for 10 seconds. Remove and plunge into ice water bath. Drain and squeeze out excess moisture. Roughly chop into bite size pieces.

Mix soy, garlic, scallion, sugar, and sesame oil. Add to greens and toss. Serve chilled.

For the Miso Vinaigrette: 1 clove garlic, minced 1 /2 teaspoon minced ginger 2 tablespoons shiro miso 1 teaspoon soy sauce 2 tablespoons sake 2 tablespoons rice vinegar Water as needed to thin mixture Mix garlic, ginger, and miso. Add soy, sake, vinegar and mix well. Add water if needed to thin mixture to vinaigrette consistency.

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Assembly: Spread a small pool of the miso vinaigrette in center of plate. Place a portion of the greens in the center of the vinaigrette.

Place the sea bass on top of the greens.

Fried lotus chips can be used to garnish.

Lamb Chop with Savory Crêpes and Edamame Hummus (SERVES 4) 2 2 2 1 2

tablespoons chopped mint teaspoons chopped parsley teaspoons tea leaves teaspoon orange zest 8-bone lamb rack, trimmed and frenched Salt Black pepper 4 cloves minced garlic 1 cup hoisin sauce (for garnish)

1 cup edamame (soy beans, available in the frozen food section) 1 /4 cup tahini (sesame seed paste) 1 teaspoon minced garlic 1 large lemon, juiced 1 /2 teaspoon ground cumin 1 teaspoon soy sauce Pinch cayenne pepper Combine all ingredients in a food processor fitted with a steel blade. Process until a smooth paste forms.

Assembly: Spread each crêpe with a thin layer of hummus. Fold crêpe in half one time and then in half again. Stack 2 crêpes on each plate and use these as a base for the lamb chop(s). Drizzle hoisin sauce over plate.

Guest Chef

Mix chopped herbs and zest. Season lamb with salt, pepper and garlic then coat with the herb and zest mixture.

Cut individual chops and grill, or place the whole rack intact into a 400 degree oven until an internal temperature of 130 degrees is reached. Allow the rack to rest for 10 minutes then cut chops.

For the Crêpes: 3 whole eggs 3 egg yolks 3 /4 cup water 11/8 cup milk 1 /2 teaspoon salt 7 /8 cup all-purpose flour 4 tablespoons melted butter 2 tablespoons chopped chives Vegetable oil as needed Whisk together the eggs, yolks, water and milk. Add salt and flour, whisk together.

Stir in melted butter and chives.

Heat a small sauté pan and brush it lightly with vegetable oil. Pour 3 tablespoons of batter into the pan and swirl the pan quickly to coat the bottom with an even layer of batter. Cook crêpe until light brown. This should only take about 30 seconds to a minute. Remove from pan and hold. Repeat with remaining batter.

For the Hummus: Edamame come in pods that resemble sugar snap peas, except the pod is too woody to eat. Sometimes the beans are packaged already removed from the pod, sometimes not.

To make this hummus, you want to use the pea-like insides from the pod, and discard the pod.

Collen Engle Chinese Tea Smoked Duck with Multi Grain Salad (SERVES 4) 4 2 2 2 4 2 1 /2 1

teaspoons salt medium onions teaspoons Sichuan peppercorns tablespoons dry sherry duck breasts tablespoons Jasmine tea leaves cup dry white rice tablespoon vegetable oil

Combine the salt, onions, peppercorns, and sherry. Rub the duck breasts well and marinate overnight.

Using your home smoker, smoke duck for 20 minutes using tea and rice. Or you can make your own home smoker: Fashion a foil bowl to hold charcoal and place in the bottom of a flameproof pot. Light 3 charcoal briquettes and place in foil bowl.

Sprinkle the tea leaves and rice over the charcoal. Place the duck on the wire rack and place the wire rack over the charcoal.

Leave at least 2 to 3 inches above the heat.

Cover the pot with lid or aluminum foil and smoke for 20 minutes.

Remove duck breasts from smoker and steam until fully cooked (about 45 minutes

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to 1 hour, depending on size of breasts).

Then in a pre-heated skillet add vegetable oil and fry duck breasts for 3 to 4 minutes or until crisp. Hold for final plating.

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Assembly: Slice the duck paper-thin on the diagonal and layer over 1/4 cup of grain mixture.

Spoon some of the dressing over the duck and around the plate.

For the Grain Salad: The rice and grain varieties can be found at Whole Foods and Creation Gardens.

1

/4 /4 1 /4 1 /4 1 /4 1

cup cup cup cup cup

bulgur wheat red rice black rice jasmine rice wasabi peas

Prepare all the grains according to instructions on package. Mix jasmine rice with wasabi peas. Layer grains (pictured) using a mold or mix all grains together.

For the Soy and Sake Dressing: 1 /3 cup rice wine vinegar 1 /4 cup light soy sauce 11/4 cup salad oil 3 tablespoons sesame oil 2 tablespoons sake 1 teaspoon sugar Pinch salt Combine all ingredients and shake well.

Thai Coconut and Seafood Soup (SERVES 4) 21/2 cups clam juice or homemade fish stock 5 thin slices of galangal (Thai ginger) 2 lemon grass stalks, chopped thin 3 kaffir lime leaves, shredded 2 tablespoon chives, chopped and divided 1 tablespoon cilantro (2 or 3 stems) 1 teaspoon vegetable oil 4 shallots, sliced thin 1 14-ounce can coconut milk 3 tablespoons Thai fish sauce 4 tablespoons Thai green curry paste 1 pound large shrimp, peeled and deveined 1 pound cleaned squid (calamari) 1 teaspoon lime juice Salt and pepper to taste 8 tablespoons sliced shallot or crisp-fried shallot (see instructions) Flour as needed

Heat fish stock with galangal, lemongrass, and half the lime leaves in a soup pot over medium-high heat until hot.

Add half of the chives to the pot. Strip the cilantro leaves from the stem and set aside. Add stems to the pot. Bring to a boil, cover, and simmer for 20 minutes. Strain the stock through a fine strainer or cheesecloth and set aside.

Add the oil to soup pot and heat. Add shallots and cook over medium heat for 5 to 10 minutes until the shallots begin to brown.

Stir in the strained stock, coconut milk, the remaining kaffir lime leaves and 2 tablespoons of the fish sauce. Simmer for 5 to 10 minutes.

Stir in the curry paste and prawns and cook for 3 minutes. Add the squid and cook for 2 minutes. Add the lime juice, remaining chives and cilantro leaves. Season with more fish sauce if desired.

To make fried shallots: Peel and slice shallots 1/4 -inch thick and lightly toss with flour. Bring 1-inch of vegetable oil to 375 degrees in a small pan. Add the shallots in batches and fry until crisp and dark brown.

Assembly: Pour into bowls and garnish with fried shallots and whole chives. F&D

Thai Coconut and Seafood Soup

www.foodanddine.com Winter 2009 55

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Alphabetical Index

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ALL RESTAURANTS ARE LISTED ALPHABETICALLY, FOLLOWED BY THE PAGE NUMBER OF ITS REVIEW, THE CUISINE STYLE, AND THE CORRESPONDING MAP NUMBER(S).

UNMAPPED [ ] DENOTES MULTIPLE LOCATIONS.

Cuisine Style

RESTAURANT

dining guide

AFRICAN 74 ASIAN/CHINESE 74 ASIAN/FILIPINO 75 ASIAN/JAPANESE 75 ASIAN/KOREAN 76 ASIAN/THAI 76 ASIAN/VIETNAMESE 76 BAR & GRILL 73 BARBECUE 72 BISTRO/CONTEMPORARY 63 CAFÉS 64 CAFETERIAS 69 CAJUN/CREOLE 79 CARIBBEAN/CUBAN 79 CASUAL DINING 66 COFFEE HOUSE 80 DESSERTS/BAKERY 81 ENTERTAINMENT DINING 69 EUROPEAN/BOSNIAN 77 EUROPEAN/GERMAN 77 EUROPEAN/IRISH 77 EUROPEAN/ITALIAN 77 EUROPEAN/SPANISH 78 FINE DINING 60 HOME STYLE/SOUTHERN 68 INDIAN 78 MEXICAN 79 MICROBREWERIES 74 MIDDLE EASTERN 78 PIZZA 69 SANDWICH/DELI 70 SEAFOOD 65 SOUTHWEST/TEX MEX 80 STEAKHOUSE 66 UPSCALE CASUAL 61

Area Maps MAP # DIRECTION

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16

82 PG #

Overview (Index)

82

Downtown

84

Near East

85

East

86

South East

87

East

88

(Downtown Louisville) (Highlands – Crescent Hill) (St. Matthews) (Hikes Point – Buechel) (Hurstbourne N. – Lyndon)

South East

89 (Hurstbourne S. – Jeffersontown) North East 90 (River Rd. – Brownsboro Rd.) North East 90 (Westport Rd.) Far East 91 (Middletown) North East 91 (Prospect) South East 91 (Fern Creek) South 92 (Airport – Okolona) South West 93 (Shively – Pleasure Ridge Park) Indiana 94 (New Albany – Floyds Knobs) Indiana 95 (Clarksville) Indiana 95 (Jeffersonville)

56 Winter 2009 www.foodanddine.com

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#1 Asian Buffet 74 211 Clover Lane 60 60 West Bistro 61 610 Magnolia 60 732 Social 61 8 China Buffet 74 A Nice Restaurant 66 A Taste of China 74 A.J.’s Coffee & Cream 80 Adriann’s Around the Table 64 Adrienne & Co. Bakery Café 81 Adrienne’s Italian 77 Al Watan 78 Alexander’s Pizzeria 69 Amazing Grace Deli 70 Amerigo 77 Amici´ 77 Angelina’s Café 77 Angilo’s Pizza 69 Angio’s Restaurant 69 Ann’s by the River 69 Annie Café 76 Annie’s Pizza 69 Another Place 70 Applebee’s 66 Arni’s Pizza 69 Aroma Café 64 Artemisia 61 Asahi Japanese 75 Asian Buffet 74 Asiatique 61 Aspen Creek Restaurant 66 Atrium Café 63 August Moon 74 Austin’s 61 Avalon 61 The aWay Café 64 bd’s Mongolian Grill 74 B.J.’s Restaurant & Brewhouse 66 Babby’s Steakhouse 66 Backyard Burger 71 The Bakery 81 Bamboo House 74 Bank Shot Billiards 71 Barbara Lee’s Kitchen 68 Basa Modern Vietnamese 61 Baxter Station 63 Bazos Mexican Grill 79 Bean Street Café 8o Bearno’s Pizza 69 Beef O’Brady’s 73 Behar Café 76 Beijing Grill & Sushi Bar 75 Bendoya Sushi Bar 75 Bentley’s Sports Grille 73 Big Al’s Beeritaville 73 Big Momma’s Soul Kitchen 68 Bistro 301 63 Bistro Le Relais 63 Blackstone Grile 61 Blimpie’s Subs 71 BLU Mediterranean Grille 61 Blue Dog Bakery 64 Blue Mountain Wine Bar 64 Blue Mule Sports Café 73 Blue Nile Ethiopian 74 Bluegrass Bistro 63 Bluegrass Brewing Co. 74 Bluegrass Grill & Bar 66 Bombay Grill 78 Bonefish Grill 65 Bootleg Barbecue Co. 72 Bosna-Mak 76 Bourbons Bistro 63 Brandon’s Bar-B-Que 72 Bravo!

61 Breadworks 81 Brendan’s Restaurant & Pub 77 Bristol Bar & Grille 61 Brix Wine Bar 63 Brown Bag Deli 71 Brownie’s Grille & Bar 73 Bruce’s Smokehouse 72 Bruno’s Pizza 69 Bruno’s Pizzeria & Pub 69 Buca Di Beppo 77 Buck’s 60

MAP #

Asian/Chinese 2 Fine Dining 3 Upscale Casual 3 Fine Dining 1 Upscale Casual 1 Asian/Chinese 6 Casual Dining 14, 16 Asian/Chinese 1 Coffee House 14 Cafés 9 Desserts/Bakery 16 European/Italian 16 Middle Eastern 4 Pizza 16 Sandwich/Deli 2 European/Italian 5 European/Italian 1 European/Italian 5 Pizza 13 Pizza 4 Cafeterias 16 Asian/Vietnamese 12 Pizza 1, 13 Sandwich/Deli 1 Casual Dining [8] Pizza 14 Cafés 14 Upscale Casual 1 Asian/Japanese 3 Asian/Chinese 4, 14, 15 Upscale Casual 2 Casual Dining 11 Bistro/Contemporary 5 Asian/Chinese 2 Upscale Casual 7 Upscale Casual 2 Cafés 14 Asian/Chinese 6 Casual Dining 5 Steakhouse 16 Sandwich/Deli 6, 7 Desserts/Bakery 4 Asian/Chinese 12 Sandwich/Deli 1 Home Style/Southern 2 Upscale Casual 2 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Mexican 3 Coffee House 14 Pizza [13] Bar & Grill 8, 9, 12, 14, 15 European/Bosnian 12 Asian/Japanese 14 Asian/Japanese 1 Bar & Grill 1 Bar & Grill 2 Home Style/Southern 1 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Bistro/Contemporary 4 Upscale Casual 10 Sandwich/Deli 2 Upscale Casual 1 Cafés 2 Cafés 1 Bar & Grill 6 African 1 Bistro/Contemporary 4 Microbreweries 1, 3 Casual Dining 7 Indian 5 Seafood 5 Barbecue 11, 12 European/Bosnian 4 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Barbecue 5 Upscale Casual 3 Desserts/Bakery 2, 7, 9 European/Irish 3 Upscale Casual 1, 2, 5, 10, 16 Bistro/Contemporary 8 Sandwich/Deli 1 Bar & Grill 5 Barbecue 4 Pizza 14 Pizza 12 European/Italian 6 Fine Dining 1

RESTAURANT

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE

Buckhead Mountain Grill 66 Buenos Dias Café 79 Buffalo Wild Wings 73 Buffalo Wings & Rings 73 Bulldog Café 64 Butcher’s Best Deli 71 Butterfly Garden Café 64 Cachito Mio Cuban Café 78 Café 360 78 Café Fraiche 64 Café Lou Lou 63 Café Magnolia 66 Café Metro 60 Café Palacio 71 Café Thuy Van 76 Caffe Classico 80 Cake Flour 81 California Pizza Kitchen 70 Calistoga Bakery Café 71 Cancun Mexican Grill 79 Captain’s Quarters 66 Cardinal Hall of Fame Café 66 Carly Rae’s 66 Carolina Shrimp & Seafood 65 Carolyn’s 68 Carrabba’s Italian Grille 77 Caspian Grill Persian Bistro 78 Cat Box Deli 71 Catfish Haven Restaurant 65 Caviar Japanese Rest.

61 Champions Grill 66 Champion’s Sports Rest. 73 Charlestown Pizza Co. 70 Chatter’s Bar & Grill 73 Check’s Café 68 Cheddar Box Café 64 Cheddar’s Casual Café 66 The Cheesecake Factory 61 Chez Seneba African 74 The Chicago Gyro 71 Chick Inn 66 The Chicken House 68 Chicken King 68 Chili’s 66 China 1 74 China Buffet 74 China Castle 74 China Garden 74 China Inn 74 China King 74 China Taste 74 Chinese Chef 74 Chinese Express 74 Chong Garden 74 Chopshop Salads 66 Chopsticks 74 Chopsticks House 74 Chrisanta’s Café 64 Chung King 74 Cici’s 70 City Café 64 Clark Boy Bar-B-Que 72 Clarksville Seafood 65 Clifton’s Pizza 70 Club Grotto 62 Coach Lamp 62 Coco’s Bakery 81 CoCo’s Chocolate Café 81 Coffee Crossing 80 Coffee Pot Café 80 Colonnade Café 64 Come Back Inn 77 Connor’s Place 73 Corbett’s ‘an American place’ 60 Corner Café 62 Cottage Café 68 Cottage Inn 68 Crave Café & Catering 64 Cravings a la Carte 69 Creekside Outpost & Café 64 Crystal Chinese 74 Culver’s 66 Cumberland Brews 74 Cunningham’s 66 The Cupcake Shoppe 81 Cutter’s Wharf 67 Cyclers Café 64 Dakshin Indian Restaurant 78 Danish Express Pastries 71 Danny Boy’s 73 Danny Mac’s Pasta & Pizza 70 Day’s Espresso 80 De La Torre’s 78 Del Frisco’s 66 Delta Restaurant 73 Dem Bones BBQ 72 Derby Café 64 Derby City Dogs 71 Derby City Espresso 80

MAP #

Casual Dining 4,8, 12, 16 Mexican 15 Bar & Grill2,3, 6, 8, 9, 13, 15 Bar & Grill 8, 11 Cafés 12 Sandwich/Deli 10 Cafés 2 Caribbean/Cuban 8 Middle Eastern 2 Cafés 7 Bistro/Contemporary 2,3 Casual Dining 1 Fine Dining 2 Sandwich/Deli 3 Asian/Vietnamese 12 Coffee House 2 Desserts/Bakery 1 Pizza 5 Sandwich/Deli 1,3 Mexican 6 Casual Dining 10 Casual Dining 12 Casual Dining 1 Seafood 3 Home Style/Southern 13 European/Italian 5 Middle Eastern 2 Sandwich/Deli 1 Seafood 13 Upscale Casual 1 Casual Dining 16 Bar & Grill 1 Pizza 16 Bar & Grill 6 Home Style/Southern 1 Cafés 9 Casual Dining 8, 15 Upscale Casual 3 African 12 Sandwich/Deli 2 Casual Dining 10 Home Style/Southern 14 Home Style/Southern 1 Casual Dining 4, 5, 8, 12 Asian/Chinese 3 Asian/Chinese 15 Asian/Chinese 13 Asian/Chinese 12 Asian/Chinese 1 Asian/Chinese 6 Asian/Chinese 16 Asian/Chinese 1 Asian/Chinese 13 Asian/Chinese 13 Casual Dining 1 Asian/Chinese 1 Asian/Chinese 1 Cafés 2 Asian/Chinese 1 Pizza 4, 14 Cafés 1, 2 Barbecue 13 Seafood 15 Pizza 2 Upscale Casual 2 Upscale Casual 1 Desserts/Bakery 12 Desserts/Bakery 2 Coffee House 14 Coffee House 1 Cafés 1 European/Italian 1, 16 Bar & Grill 14 Fine Dining 8 Upscale Casual 5 Home Style/Southern 9 Home Style/Southern 1 Cafés 2 Cafeterias 1 Cafés 14 Asian/Chinese 1 Casual Dining 6 Microbreweries 2 Casual Dining 1, 10 Desserts/Bakery 3 Casual Dining 10 Cafés 2 Indian 11 Sandwich/Deli 3 Bar & Grill 16 Pizza 2 Coffee House 2 European/Spanish 2 Steakhouse 3 Bar & Grill 1 Barbecue 16 Cafés 12 Sandwich/Deli 2 Coffee House 1

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MAP #

Derby Dinner Playhouse 69 Entertainment Dining 16 The Dessert Gallery 81 Desserts/Bakery 5 Desserts By Helen 81 Desserts/Bakery 2, 1 Devino’s 71 Sandwich/Deli 1 Diamond Pub & Billiards 73 Bar & Grill 3 Dinner Is Done 68 Home Style/Southern 6 Dino’s Down to Lunch 71 Sandwich/Deli 1 Ditto’s Grill 63 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Dizzy Whizz Drive-In 71 Sandwich/Deli 1 D’Nalley’s Restaurant 68 Home Style/Southern 1 Domino’s Pizza 70 Pizza [20] Don Pablos 79 Mexican 15 Dooley’s Bagels 71 Sandwich/Deli 3, 7 Double Dragon 74 Asian/Chinese 2 Double Dragon II 74 Asian/Chinese 5, 8, 11, 12 Double Dragon 8 74 Asian/Chinese 1 Double Dragon 9 74 Asian/Chinese 6 Double Dragon Buffet 74 Asian/Chinese 5 Dynasty Buffet 74 Asian/Chinese 7 Eastern House 74 Asian/Chinese 13 Einstein Brothers Bagels 71 Sandwich/Deli 1 El Burrito de Oro 79 Mexican 15 El Caporal 79 Mexican 4,6,12,15 El Mundo 79 Mexican 2 El Nopal 79 Mexican 6, 8, 9, 12, 14 El Nopalito 79 Mexican 2, 4, 11 El Rey Mexican 79 Mexican 4 El Rodeo Mexican 79 Mexican 13 El Tarasco 79 Mexican 3, 5, 6, 12 El Toro Resaurante Mexicano 79 Mexican 6 Emperor of China 74 Asian/Chinese 7 Empress of China 74 Asian/Chinese 4 The English Grill 60 Fine Dining 1 Equus 62 Upscale Casual 3 Erika’s German Rest.

77 European/German 6 Ermin’s Bakery & Café 64 Cafés 1, 10, 14 Ernesto’s 79 Mexican 3, 5, 6 Eva Mae’s Creekside 67 Casual Dining 10 The Falafel House 78 Middle Eastern 2 Famous Dave’s Bar-B-Que 72 Barbecue 6, 15 Fat Daddy’s Pizza 70 Pizza 12 Fat Jimmy’s 70 Pizza 1, 2, 9 Feed Bag Deli 71 Sandwich/Deli 3 Fiesta Time Mexican Grill 79 Mexican 8 Fifth Quarter 66 Steakhouse 12 Finley’s BBQ 72 Barbecue 1 Fire Fresh Bar B Q 72 Barbecue 1, 11, 13 Fireside Bar & Grill 67 Casual Dining 14 First Wok 74 Asian/Chinese 13 The Fish House 65 Seafood 2 The Fishery 65 Seafood 3 Five Guys Burgers & Fries 67 Casual Dining 14 Flabby’s Schnitzelburg 73 Bar & Grill 1 Flanagans Ale House 73 Bar & Grill 2 Fork in the Road 68 Home Style/Southern 13 Forty Acres And A Mule 68 Home Style/Southern 1 Four King’s Café 73 Bar & Grill 4 Fox & Hound 73 Bar & Grill 3 Frascelli’s N.Y. Deli & Pizza 71 Sandwich/Deli 7 Frolio’s Pizza 70 Pizza 12 Frontier Diner 68 Home Style/Southern 13 Fuji Japanese Steakhouse 76 Asian/Japanese 8, 9 Fun Food Café 64 Cafés 2 Furlong’s 78 Cajun/Creole 5 Gasthaus 77 European/German 7 Gavi’s Restaurant 67 Casual Dining 1 Genny’s Diner 68 Home Style/Southern 2 Gerstle’s Place 73 Bar & Grill 3 Gilman’s Point 62 Upscale Casual 3 Golden Buddha 74 Asian/Chinese 12 Golden Corral 68 Home Style/Southern 4,12,15 Golden Palace 74 Asian/Chinese 13 Golden Star Chinese 74 Asian/Chinese 13 Golden Wall 74 Asian/Chinese 12 Goose Creek Diner 67 Casual Dining 8 Granny’s Apron 68 Home Style/Southern 13 Granville Inn 73 Bar & Grill 1 Grape Leaf 78 Middle Eastern 2 Grapevine Pantry 64 Cafés 9 Great American Grill 73 Bar & Grill 12 Great Life Café 71 Cafés 6,8,15 Great Wall 74 Asian/Chinese 2 Great Wok 74 Asian/Chinese 1 Hall’s Cafeteria 69 Cafeterias 2 Hanabi Japanese Restaurant 76 Asian/Japanese 10 Happy Dragon 74 Asian/Chinese 1 Hard Rock Café 64 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Havana Rumba 79 Caribbean/Cuban 3 Hazelwood Restaurant 68 Home Style/Southern 13 Heavenly Ham 71 Sandwich/Deli 14 Heine Brothers Coffee 80 Coffee House 2, 3 Heitzman Bakery & Deli 81 Desserts/Bakery 5 Highland Coffee Co. 80 Coffee House 2 Hiko A Mon Sushi Bar 76 Asian/Japanese 7 Hill Street Fish Fry 65 Seafood 1 Hitching Post Inn 73 Bar & Grill 11 Hobknobb Roasting Co. 80 Coffee House 14 Homerun Burgers & Fries 67 Casual Dining 6 Hometown Buffet 68 Home Style/Southern 6, 3 www.foodanddine.com Winter 2009 57

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Hometown Pizza Honeybaked Café Hong Kong Chinese Hong Kong Fast Food Hoops Grill and Sports Bar Hooters Howl at the Moon Hunan Wok Ichiban Samurai IHOP Incredible Dave’s Indi’s Restaurant India Palace Indigo Joe’s Sports Pub Intermezzo Café & Cabaret The Irish Rover Iroquois Pizza Islamorada Fish Co. J. Alexander’s J. Graham’s Café J. Gumbo’s J. Harrods J Train Pizza & Pub Jack Binion’s Steakhouse Jack Fry’s Jack’s Lounge Jade Garden Buffet Jade Palace Jake’s & Mr. G’s Jane’s Cafeteria Jarfi’s at Glenmary Jarfi’s Bistro Jarfi’s Café Jasmine Jason’s Deli Java Brewing Co. Jeff Ruby’s Steakhouse Jerry’s On The River Jersey Mike’s Subs Jersey’s Café Jessie’s Restaurant Jimbo’s BBQ Jimmy John’s Sub Shop Jockamo’s Pizza Pub Joe Huber Restaurant Joe Muggs Joe’s Crab Shack Joe’s O.K. Bayou Joe’s Older Than Dirt John E’s Johnny V’s Juanita’s Burger Boy Jucy’s Smokehouse Jumbo Buffet Just Fresh Bakery & Café Kaelin’s Restaurant Kansai Japanese Rest.

Karem’s Karma Café Kashmir Indian Kayrouz Café KC’s Chicago Hotdog Stand Kentucky BBQ Co. Kern’s Korner King Wok Kingfish Kings Fast Food King’s Fried Chicken Kobe Japanese Steak Koreana II Kreso’s Restaurant KT’s L&N Wine Bar and Bistro La Bamba La Bodega La Gallo Rosso Bistro La Herradura La Monarca La Perla del Pacifico La Que La Rosita La Rosita Mexican Grill La Tapatia La Vida Java Coffee Co. Lancaster’s Cafeteria Las Gorditas Lee’s Korean Legend’s Lemongrass Café Liang’s Café The Lighthouse Lil’ Loafers Bakery Lilly’s Limestone Ling Ling Little Caesar’s Pizza Little Chef Liu’s Garden Logan’s Roadhouse

4:03 PM

MAP #

70 Pizza 7, 9 71 Sandwich/Deli 3, 11 74 Asian/Chinese 14 74 Asian/Chinese 12 73 Bar & Grill 12 67 Casual Dining 3,12,13,15,16 69 Entertainment Dining 1 75 Asian/Chinese 11 76 Asian/Japanese 6 67 Casual Dining 15 69 Entertainment Dining 8 68 Home Style/Southern 1,3,12 78 Indian 5, 15 73 Bar & Grill 7 62 Upscale Casual 1 77 European/Irish 2, 7 70 Pizza 13 65 Seafood 15 62 Upscale Casual 3 64 Cafés 1 78 Cajun/Creole 1, 2,5, 6, 8,12,13 62 Upscale Casual 10 70 Pizza 16 60 Fine Dining 14 62 Upscale Casual 2 64 Bistro/Contemporary 3 75 Asian/Chinese 2 75 Asian/Chinese 7 73 Bar & Grill 5 69 Cafeterias 4 62 Upscale Casual 11 62 Upscale Casual 2 64 Cafés 1 75 Asian/Chinese 9 71 Sandwich/Deli 5 80 Coffee House 1, 2, 9, 10 66 Steakhouse 1 73 Bar & Grill 16 71 Sandwich/Deli 5, 6, 8 73 Bar & Grill 15 68 Home Style/Southern 13 72 Barbecue 12 71 Sandwich/Deli 1, 2, 3, 6 70 Pizza 1 69 Entertainment Dining 14 80 Coffee House 3, 8 65 Seafood 1 78 Cajun/Creole 6, 14 67 Casual Dining 5 62 Upscale Casual 4 70 Pizza 6 71 Sandwich/Deli 1 72 Barbecue 3 75 Asian/Chinese 6 71 Sandwich/Deli 2 67 Casual Dining 2 76 Asian/Japanese 15 67 Casual Dining 8 67 Casual Dining 2 78 Indian 2 64 Cafés 3 71 Sandwich/Deli 2 72 Barbecue 2 67 Casual Dining 2 75 Asian/Chinese 3 65 Seafood 6, 7, 16 68 Home Style/Southern 13 69 Home Style/Southern 1 76 Asian/Japanese 16 76 Asian/Korean 12 62 Upscale Casual 12 62 Upscale Casual 2 64 Bistro/Contemporary 2 79 Mexican 2 78 European/Spanish 2 77 European/Italian 2 79 Mexican 15 79 Mexican 11 79 Mexican 8, 12 76 Asian/Vietnamese 2 79 Mexican 15 79 Mexican 14, 15 79 Mexican 2 80 Coffee House 7 69 Cafeterias 14 79 Mexican 11 76 Asian/Korean 12 67 Casual Dining 14 76 Asian/Vietnamese 3, 9 75 Asian/Chinese 8 73 Bar & Grill 16 71 Sandwich/Deli 12 60 Fine Dining 2 60 Fine Dining 5 75 Asian/Chinese 5 70 Pizza 6, 8, 11, 12 72 Sandwich/Deli 14 75 Asian/Chinese 9 66 Steakhouse 3, 13, 15

58 Winter 2009 www.foodanddine.com

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RESTAURANT

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE

Lolitas Tacos Inc. Longhorn Steakhouse Lonnie’s Taste Chicago Los Aztecas Lotsa Pasta Louisville Pizza Co. Lucky Strike Lanes Luigi’s Lunch Today Lylia’s Encore Lynn’s Paradise Café Ma Zerellas Macca’s Florida Seafood Maggie’s Neighborhood Bar Mai’s Thai Restaurant Maido Essential Japanese Main Eatery Maker’s Mark Lounge Manhattan Grill Mark’s Feed Store Market Street Fish House Martini Italian Bistro Masterson’s Max & Erma’s Mayan Café McAlister’s Deli The Melting Pot Meridian Café Mexican Fiesta Mexicano Mexico Tipico Michael Murphy’s Mikato Japanese Steakhouse Mike Linnig’s Mimi’s Café Mitchell’s Fish Market Moe’s Southwest Grill Mojito Tapas Restaurant Molly Malone’s The Monkey Wrench Morris Deli & Catering Morton’s of Chicago Mr. Gattis Mr. Lou’s Mr. Z’s Kitchen My Bar My Favorite Muffin My Old KY Dinner Train My Patria Nancy’s Bagel Box Nancy’s Bagel Grounds Napa River Grill New Albanian Brewing Co. New China New Direction Bar & Grill Ninny’s-N-New Albany Nord’s Bakery North End Café NV Tavern O’Charley’s O’Dolly’s O’Shea’s Irish Pub The Oakroom Oceanside Restaurant Oishii Sushi Old Chicago Pasta & Pizza Old Louisville Coffee House Old Spaghetti Factory Old Stone Inn Ole Hickory Pit BBQ The Olive Garden Olivia’s Restaurant Ollie’s Trolley On the Border Onion Rest.Tea House Orchid Asian Café Orders Up Café & Deli Oriental Express Oriental House Oriental Star Original Impellizzeri’s Osaka Sushi Bar Otto’s Café Our Best Restaurant Outback Steakhouse P. F. Chang’s China Bistro Pa Pa Murphy’s Pizza Palermo Viejo Panda Chinese Panera Bread Co. Papa Johns Pizza Passtime Fish House Pat’s Steak House The Patron PattiCakes Café Paul’s Fruit Market Penn Station Peppers Bar and Grill Perkfection

MAP #

79 Mexican 12 66 Steakhouse 6, 8, 15 72 Sandwich/Deli 1, 3 79 Mexican 1, 7, 10 72 Sandwich/Deli 3 70 Pizza 6 69 Entertainment Dining 1 70 Pizza 1 72 Sandwich/Deli 16 62 Upscale Casual 1 67 Casual Dining 2 70 Pizza 15 65 Seafood 7 73 Bar & Grill 6 76 Asian/Thai 16 76 Asian/Japanese 2 72 Sandwich/Deli 1 62 Upscale Casual 1 67 Casual Dining 1 72 Barbecue 2, 9, 13, 14 65 Seafood 14 77 European/Italian 8 67 Casual Dining 1 67 Casual Dining 6, 8 80 Mexican 1 72 Sandwich/Deli 5, 6, 7, 9, 11,15 62 Upscale Casual 6 64 Cafés 3 80 Mexican 4, 11 80 Mexican 11 80 Mexican 9, 13 74 Bar & Grill 1 76 Asian/Japanese 3 65 Seafood 13 67 Casual Dining 5 65 Seafood 8 80 Southwest/Tex Mex 3, 6, 9, 11, 15 78 European/Spanish 7 77 European/Irish 2 67 Casual Dining 2 72 Sandwich/Deli 1, 2 66 Steakhouse 1 70 Pizza 1, 4, 5, 12, 13 69 Home Style/Southern 13 65 Cafés 1 74 Bar & Grill 14 81 Desserts/Bakery 5 69 Entertainment Dining 12 80 Mexican 5 72 Sandwich/Deli 1 72 Sandwich/Deli 2 62 Upscale Casual 7 70 Pizza 14 75 Asian/Chinese 9 74 Bar & Grill 8 69 Home Style/Southern 14 81 Desserts/Bakery 1 62 Cafés 2 74 Bar & Grill 2 67 Casual Dining 3,6,8,12,13,15 69 Home Style/Southern 13 77 European/Irish 2 60 Fine Dining 1 78 Middle Eastern 4 76 Asian/Japanese 2 70 Pizza 6 80 Coffee House 1 77 European/Italian 1 62 Upscale Casual 9 73 Barbecue 11 77 European/Italian 6, 8, 15 63 Upscale Casual 1 72 Sandwich/Deli 1 80 Southwest/Tex Mex 8 75 Asian/Chinese 14 75 Asian/Chinese 14 72 Sandwich/Deli 9 75 Asian/Chinese 9 75 Asian/Chinese 3 75 Asian/Chinese 12 70 Pizza 2, 10 76 Asian/Japanese 2 67 Casual Dining 1 69 Home Style/Southern12, 16 66 Steakhouse 3, 8, 11, 12, 15 63 Upscale Casual 5 70 Pizza 3, 8, 9, 11, 12, 15 78 European/Spanish 2 75 Asian/Chinese 10 72 Sandwich/Deli 1, 3, 6, 8, 12, 15 70 Pizza [30] 65 Seafood 6 66 Steakhouse 2 63 Upscale Casual 3 65 Cafés 2 72 Sandwich/Deli 3, 4, 7, 9 72 Sandwich/Deli [16] 67 Casual Dining 1 80 Coffee House 16

RESTAURANT

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE

Pesto’s Italian 77 Pho Binh Minh 76 Piccadilly Cafeteria 69 Picnicaters BBQ 73 The Pie Pantry 81 Pig City BBQ 73 Pink Door Noodles & Tea Lounge 76 Pit Stop Bar-B-Que 73 Pita Delights 78 Pita Hut 78 Pizza By The Guy 70 Pizza Hut 70 Pizza King 70 Pizza Place 70 Plehn’s Bakery 81 Ponderosa Steakhouse 66 Porcini 77 Proof On Main 60 Pub Louisville 67 Puccini’s Smiling Teeth 77 Puckers Bar & Grill 74 Puerto Vallarta 80 Qdoba Mexican Grill 80 Queen of Sheba 74 Queue Café 65 Quick Wok 75 Quizno’s Subs 72 Rafferty’s of Louisville 67 Ramsi’s Café 64 Raw Sushi Lounge 76 Ray Parrella’s 77 Ray’s Monkey House 80 Red Pepper Chinese Cuisine 75 Red Robin Gourmet Burgers 68 Red Star Tavern 63 Red Sun Chinese 75 Ri Ra Irish Pub 77 Rite Way Bar-B-Cue House 73 River City Coffee House 81 Rivue 60 Road to Morroco 78 Rocky’s Italian Grill 78 Romano’s Macaroni Grill 78 Roosters 68 Rosticeria Luna 80 Royal Garden 75 Rubbie’s Bar-B-Que 73 Ruben’s Mexican Restaurant 80 Ruby Tuesday 68 The Rudyard Kipling 68 Rumors Raw Oyster Bar 66 Rustic Frog 74 Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse 66 Ryan’s Steakhouse 66 Saffron’s 78 Safier Mediterranean Deli 78 Sage Indian Restaurant 78 Saint’s 74 Sake Blue Japanese Bistro 76 Sakura Blue 76 Sala Thai 76 Salsarita’s Fresh Cantina 80 Sam’s Food & Spirits 68 Sammi Jo’s Sandwiches & More 72 Santa Fe Grill 80 Sapporo Japanese Grill 76 Sari Sari Exotic Filipino Cuisine 75 Savino’s Italian Food 78 Schlotzsky’s Deli 72 Scotty’s Ribs 73 Selena’s at Willow Lake Tavern 78 Senor Iguana’s 80 Sesame Chinese 75 Seviche A Latin Restaurant 60 Shack In The Back BBQ 73 Shady Lane Café 72 Shah’s Mongolian Grill 75 Shalimar Indian 78 Shane’s Rib Shack 73 Shanghai Restaurant 75 Sharom’s 66 Shenanigan’s Irish Grille 77 Shiraz Mediterranean Grill 78 Shogun 76 Shoney’s 68 Sichuan Garden 75 Sicilian Pizza & Pasta 70 Simply Thai 76 Sir Dano’s Pizza Parlor 70 Sister Bean’s 81 Sitar 78 Skip Jack’s 66 Skyline Chili 68 Small Times Bakery 81 Smoketown USA 73 Smokey Bones BBQ 73 Snappy Tomato 70 Sol Aztecas 80 Son Of A Sailor Seaf ood 66

MAP #

European/Italian 1 Asian/Vietnamese 12 Cafeterias 5, 6 Barbecue 1 Desserts/Bakery 13 Barbecue 9 Asian/Korean 2 Barbecue 1 Middle Eastern 1 Middle Eastern 2 Pizza 5 Pizza [15] Pizza 14, 16 Pizza 4 Desserts/Bakery 3 Steakhouse 7 European/Italian 2 Fine Dining 1 Casual Dining 1 European/Italian 3 Bar & Grill 12 Mexican 14, 16 Mexican 2, 3, 5, 6, 7, 8, 12, 15 African 4 Cafés 6 Asian/Chinese 1 Sandwich/Deli [16] Casual Dining 3, 8 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Asian/Japanese 1 European/Italian 2 Coffee House 2 Asian/Chinese 2 Casual Dining 3, 8 Upscale Casual 1 Asian/Chinese 4 European/Irish 1 Barbecue 1 Coffee House 2 Fine Dining 1 Middle Eastern 1 European/Italian 16 European/Italian 5 Casual Dining 12 Mexican 12 Asian/Chinese 11, 12, 13 Barbecue 12 Mexican 15 Casual Dining 6, 15 Casual Dining 1 Seafood 9 Bar & Grill 14 Steakhouse 3 Steakhouse 11 Middle Eastern 1 Middle Eastern 1 Indian 3 Bar & Grill 3 Asian/Japanese 11 Asian/Japanese 3 Asian/Thai 1 Southwest/Tex Mex 3 Casual Dining 14 Sandwich/Deli 1 Mexican 12 Asian/Japanese 2, 9 Asian/Filipino 2 European/Italian 13 Sandwich/Deli 8, 9 Barbecue 9 Cajun/Creole 5 Mexican 12, 15 Asian/Chinese 5 Fine Dining 2 Barbecue 12 Sandwich/Deli 7 Asian/Chinese 6 Indian 6 Barbecue 7 Asian/Chinese 1 Seafood 11 European/Irish 2, 7 Middle Eastern 2, 5, 7, 9 Asian/Japanese 6, 8 Casual Dining 2, 12 Asian/Chinese 6 Pizza 1 Asian/Thai 3 Pizza 15 Coffee House 13 Indian 2 Seafood 15 Casual Dining 1, 2, 3, 6, 13 Desserts/Bakery 4 Barbecue 1 Barbecue 6 Pizza 3, 8, 10 Mexican 2 Seafood 7

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MAP #

Soupy’s 72 Sandwich/Deli 4 Spaghetti Shop 78 European/Italian 11, 14 Spinelli’s Pizzeria 70 Pizza 2 Sportsville Grill & Bar 68 Casual Dining 12 Stan’s Fish Sandwich 66 Seafood 3 Star Cruises 69 Entertainment Dining 16 Starbucks Coffee 81 Coffee House [35] Starving Artist Café 72 Sandwich/Deli 5 Steak N Shake 68 Casual Dining 4,6,8,12,13,15 Stevens & Stevens 72 Sandwich/Deli 2 Steve-O’s Italian Kitchen 78 European/Italian 7 Stoney River 66 Steakhouse 8 Stop Lite Café 65 Cafés 1 Studio’s Grille & Pub 74 Bar & Grill 14 Stumler Rest. & Orchard 69 Entertainment Dining 14 Sub Station II 72 Sandwich/Deli 12 Sully’s Saloon 74 Bar & Grill 1 Sunergos Coffee & Roastery 81 Coffee House 1 Sweet ‘N’ Savory Café 65 Cafés 2 Sweet Surrender 65 Cafés 2 The Sweet Tooth 81 Desserts/Bakery 3 Taco Bueno 80 Mexican 6, 16 Taco Tico 80 Mexican 13 Tacqueria La Mexicana 80 Mexican 12 TanThai Restaurant 76 Asian/Thai 14 Tea Station Chinese Bistro 75 Asian/Chinese 8 Tengo sed Cantina 74 Bar & Grill 1 Texas Roadhouse 66 Steakhouse 2, 12, 13, 15 TGI Friday’s 68 Casual Dining 1, 6 Thai Café 76 Asian/Thai 7 Thai Orchids 76 Asian/Thai 6 Thai Siam 76 Asian/Thai 4 Thai Smile 5 76 Asian/Thai 12 Thai Taste 76 Asian/Thai 2 The Back Door 74 Bar & Grill 2 The Bodega 72 Sandwich/Deli 1 The Café 65 Cafés 1 The Cheddar Box 65 Cafés 3 The Lunch Pail 65 Cafés 1 Third Avenue Café 65 Cafés 1 Thornberry’s Deli & Pies 72 Sandwich/Deli 12 Tiffany Cellar Café 65 Cafés 9 Toast on Market 68 Casual Dining 1 Tokyo Japanese 76 Asian/Japanese 7 Tommy Lancaster’s Rest. 68 Casual Dining 14 Toni’s More Than Pizza 70 Pizza 12 Tony Boombozz 70 Pizza 2, 3, 8 Tony Impellizzeri’s Italian 70 Pizza 5 Tony Roma’s 73 Barbecue 5 Trailside Café 81 Coffee House 7 Trellis Restaurant 68 Casual Dining 1 Tubby’s Pizza 70 Pizza 7 Tucker’s 68 Casual Dining 14 Tumbleweed 80 Southwest/Tex Mex 1,2,4, 6,8,12,13,14,15,16 Turkey Joe’s 74 Bar & Grill 8 Tuscany Italian Restaurant 78 European/Italian 13 Twig & Leaf Restaurant 68 Casual Dining 2 Uptown Café 63 Upscale Casual 7 Varanese 63 Upscale Casual 2 Varsity Pizza & Pints 70 Pizza 8 Vic’s Café 74 Bar & Grill 1 Vietnam Kitchen 76 Asian/Vietnamese 12 The Villa Buffet 68 Casual Dining 14 Vince Staten’s BBQ 73 Barbecue 10 Vincenzo’s 61 Fine Dining 1 Volare 78 European/Italian 2 W.W. Cousin’s 72 Sandwich/Deli 3 Wagner’s Pharmacy 69 Home Style/Southern 12 Wall Street Deli 72 Sandwich/Deli 1 Webb’s Market 69 Home Style/Southern 1 Westport General Store 68 Casual Dining 7 Wet Willie’s 66 Seafood 1 Whitney’s Diner 65 Cafés 4 Wicks Pizza 70 Pizza 2, 8, 9, 13 Wild Eggs 65 Cafés 3, 7 Windsor Restaurant & Garden 63 Upscale Casual 14 Windy City Pizzeria 70 Pizza 1 The Wing Zone 68 Casual Dining 12 Wings To Go 70 Pizza 14 Winston’s 61 Fine Dining 4 Wok Express 75 Asian/Chinese 1 Wolfgang Puck Express 65 Cafés 1 Wonton Express 75 Asian/Chinese 4 Xavier’s 68 Casual Dining 1 Yaching’s East West Cuisine 63 Upscale Casual 1 Yafa Café 65 Cafés 1 Yang Kee Noodle 75 Asian/Chinese 5 Yen Ching 75 Asian/Chinese 6 You-Carryout-A 75 Asian/Chinese 15, 16 Yummy Chinese 75 Asian/Chinese 12 Za’s Pizza 70 Pizza 2 Zaytun Mediterranean Grill 78 Middle Eastern 2 ZaZoo’s 74 Bar & Grill 3 Zen Garden 75 Asian/Vietnamese 2 Zeppelin Café 65 Cafés 1 Z’s Fusion 61 Fine Dining 1 Z’s Oyster Bar 61 Fine Dining 5

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GUIDE KEY Average Entrée Price:

$$ = under $8 $$$$ = $15–$20 $$ = $9–$14 $$$$ = $21 & up

RED = ADVERTISER

p = FULL BAR

h = LATE NIGHT

OPEN PAST 10 P.M.

✿ = VEGETARIAN f = OUTDOOR MENU ITEMS DINING AVAILABLE LIVE e = MUSIC = MENU ON-LINE ONLY ALL RESTAURANTS ARE LOCATED IN LOUISVILLE (unless noted otherwise).

All phone numbers are local calls. When out of the area, use area code 502 for all listings except Indiana, use 812.

211 CLOVER LANE RESTAURANT 211 Clover Ln., 896-9570. Owner and manager Andr ew Smith has recently added a 1300 bottle wine cellar and private dining r oom t o burnish the upscale atmosphere and creative cuisine of this stylish spot in St. Matthews. It consistently ranks among the city’s top tables. $$$$ p f ✿ 610 MAGNOLIA 610 Magnolia Ave., 636-0783. Chef Edward Lee’s distinctive, eclectic take on cr eative international cookery places his personal signature on every dish at this elegantly comfor table Old Louisville restaurant. For more than a quarter of a century it has r emained one of the city’ s finest places to dine. $$$$ p f ✿

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BUCK’S 425 W. Ormsby A ve., 637-5284. Elegant but not overstated, this fine dining r oom in the Mayflower Apar tments has been quietly ser ving high-style lunches and dinners for over two decades. No longer an owner , namesake and house manager Buck Heath gr eets everyone with bonhomie. $$$ p f e ✿ CAFÉ METRO 1700 Bardstown Rd., 458-4830. New chef Gary Byler is gradually putting his mark on this anchor of Bar dstown Road’s “restaurant row,” preserving favorite dishes and adapting to a new generation of upscale diners. $$$$ p e ✿ CORBETT’S ‘AN AMERICAN PLACE’ 5050 Norton Healthcare Blvd., 327-5058. Dean Corbett, longtime owner/chef at Equus, raises the bar with this remarkable, high-end East End destination, which makes thoughtful use of the historic V on Allmen mansion with high-tech touches that range fr om a 21st centur y kitchen to multimedia dinners.

Corbett has his sights set on becoming Kentucky’ s first Mobil five-star r estaurant, and we’r e not betting against him. $$$$ p f ENGLISH GRILL 335 W. Broadway (The Brown Hotel), 583-1234. This elegant oak-paneled dining room is the same downtown landmark that our grandparents enjoyed, but Chef Laur ent Géroli brings the grand old hotel dining r oom into the 21st centur y with sophisticated international cuisine. $$$$ p ✿ JACK BINION’S STEAKHOUSE Horseshoe Casino Hotel, Elizabeth, IN, 888-766-2648. High-end luxury and style bring a taste of Las Vegas to Metro Louisville. Caesar’s has become Horseshoe Casino, and its top eater y swaps its sign fr om Por tico to Jack Binion’s. Still a stylish and upscale place to dine, it featur es a steakhouse concept, and you don’t have to be a high r oller to af ford its upscale fare and service. $$$$ p h ✿ LILLY’S 1147 Bardstown Rd., 451-0447. As a r epeat invitee to Manhattan’ s James Bear d House, Chef

RED = ADVERTISER

Kathy Cary shares her Kentucky-accented cooking skills with the r est of the nation. Lilly’ s combines sophisticated style and Car y’s cr eative cooker y to keep this landmark r estaurant one of Louisville’ s dining favorites. $$$$ p e ✿ LIMESTONE 10001 For est Gr een Blvd., 426-7477.

Chef Jim Ger hardt and former par tner Michael Cunha have established a stylish and elegant dining experience in the East End. Cunha’s friendly departure to train the next generation of chefs at Sullivan leaves the kitchen in Ger hardt’s capable hands. $$$$ p ✿ THE OAKROOM 500 S. Fourth St. (Seelbach Hotel), 585-3200. After the depar ture of executive chef Todd Richards and his team to Atlanta, thr ee year veteran chef de cuisine Nicole W alker is holding the for t admirably while a national sear ch continues for an executive chef to suit the caliber of this four -diamond destination dining r oom. $$$$ p ✿ PROOF ON MAIN 702 W. Main St., 217-6360. This stylish spot in the posh 21C Museum Hotel at Seventh & Main has earned a firm place in the top tier of local eateries. Chef Michael Paley pr esides over a modern American bill of far e with distinct Tuscan influences. $$$ p ✿ RIVUE 140 N. Four th St., (Galt House Hotel) 5684239. You can still get a r evolving view of the city in this upscale dining room. But a major makeover in 2007 has completely transformed the dark old Flagship Room into a sleek black and white modern fantasy right out of an old Fr ed Astair e movie. $$$ p h ✿ SEVICHE A LATIN RESTAURANT 1538 Bardstown Rd., 473-8560. Chef Anthony Lamas has been winning national praise for his cr eative cookery , frequently appearing in national food media and making a r egular trek to James Bear d House in NYC. Seviche, as the name implies, specializes in

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the Latino seafood dish “cooked” in tar juices. $$$$ p f h ✿

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of V ietnamese and world culinary influences invites comparison with San Francisco’ s Slanted Door and Cincinnati’s Pho Paris. $$$ p

t citrus

VINCENZO’S 150 S. Fifth St., 580-1350. Known for its suave pr ofessional ser vice, high-end Nor thern Italian fare and many trademark dishes finished at tableside, Vincenzo’s continues to hold its own against growing downtown competition. $$$$ p e h ✿ WINSTON’S REST AURANT 3101 Bar dstown Rd., (Sullivan University Campus), 456-0980. Renovated quarters kick W inston’s up a notch as culinar y arts students at Sullivan University staf f this finedining r estaurant on the campus, under the guiding hand of Chef John Castro. Open Fri. - Sun. only. Reservations suggested. $$$$ p ✿ Z’S FUSION 115 S. Fourth St., 855-8000. A considerable buzz surr ounded the r ecent arrival of this classy dining r oom in the former Kunz’ s, with an all-star team of Mehrzad Sharbaiani (Z’s Oyster Bar and Steakhouse) and Chef Dallas McGarity. “Fusion” cuisine, uniting dif ferent ethnic influences in creative blends, has been ar ound for a while, but a chef of McGarity’ s skill should be able to make it look new. $$$$ p ✿ Z’S OYSTER BAR & STEAKHOUSE101 Whittington Pkwy., 429-8000. This exciting spot brings a level of fine dining to the suburbs that makes it stand out in the chain-rich envir ons outside the Watterson. Splendid steaks, extraordinary seafood, fine service and clubby ambience give Z’s the tools to dominate in the steakhouse competition. $$$$ p

BLACKSTONE GRILLE 9521 U.S. 42, Pr ospect, KY, 228-6962. Rick Dissell, formerly of the eponymous Rick’s Ferrari Grille in Chenoweth Squar e, moved east last year to this new restaurant in the Prospect Center. The menu of fers no surprises to Rick’ s fans: sandwiches and the expected array of bistr o entrées — pasta, seafood, beef and chicken, including Rick’ s fried chicken livers and “light” fried chicken. $$$ p f ✿

BRISTOL BAR & GRILLE 1321 Bardstown Rd., 4561702, 300 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy ., 426-0627, 614 W. Main St., 582-1995, 6051 T imber Ridge Dr ., 292-2585, 2035 S. Thir d St., 634-2723, 700 W .

Riverside Dr ., Jef fersonville, IN, 218-1995. The Bristol has been a star on Louisville’ s bistro scene since it helped kick of f the Bar dstown Road restaurant renaissance more than 30 years ago. Old standards like the gr een-chile won tons and the Bristol Bur ger ar e always r eliable, and the wine program is exceptional. $$ p f ✿

BLU ITALIAN MEDITERRANEAN GRILLE 280 W. Jefferson St. (Louisville Marriott), 627-5045. BLU offers upscale Italian Mediterranean cuisine in striking surr oundings highlighted by Mexican limestone and Italian marble. For those seeking a relaxing libation and a quicker snack, the Bar at BLU offers a more casual alternative. $$$ p ✿

CAVIAR JAPANESE RESTAURANT 416 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 625-3090. Sammy Sa, the genial host of the Fuji r estaurants in the East End, adds a downtown pr esence with this stylish Japanese eatery next door to the Seelbach Hotel. Eat at the sushi bar, choose a comfortable table or reserve the traditional Japanese-style T atami Room for your group. $$$ p h ✿

BRAVO! 206 Bullitt Ln. (Oxmoor Center), 326-0491.

Management describes the Ohio-based Bravo! chain as “a fun, white-tablecloth casual eatery … positioned between the fine-dining and casual chains.” A Roman-ruin setting houses abundant Italian-American style fare. We particularly enjoyed appetizers and first-rate grilled meats. $$ p f ✿

THE CHEESECAKE FACTORY 5000 Shelbyville Rd., 897-3933. “Cheesecake” is its name, and this glitzy shopping-mall eatery of fers a wide variety of rich, calorific choices to eat in or take out. It’s more than just cheesecake, though, with a wide-ranging menu of California, Southwestern and Pacific Rim far e plus full bar service. $$ p h ✿

60 WEST BISTRO & MARTINI BAR 3939 Shelbyville Rd., 719-9717. 60 W est combines a comfortable dining room with a lar ge, friendly bar with an imposing list of mar tinis and mar tini-style cocktails.

Chefs T im Smith and Chris V anhoozer o ffer an appealing, fairly priced eclectic inter national menu. $$ p f e ✿ 732 SOCIAL 732 E. Market St., 583-6882. Br others Steven and Michael Ton, who made a big splash on the Louisville dining scene last year with Basa Modern Vietnamese, are set to make another when 732 Social opens in the Market Str eet arts district in Februar y. Small and intimate and featuring inventive small plates, with r oom for 60 diners who’ll dine “in close interaction with the working kitchen and guests,” 732 is already being likened to Chicago’s trendy Avec. $$$ p f ✿ ARTEMISIA 620 E. Market St., 583-4177. Of fering stylish fare to please both vegetarians and omnivores, Artemisia rates as a favorite dinner venue in an artful gallery setting that fits nicely with the bustling east-of-downtown arts scene. $$$ p f e ✿ ASIATIQUE 1767 Bardstown Rd., 451-2749. Chef Peng Looi has won diners’ raves and many culinary awards during Asiatique’s long local tenur e. His innovative Asian-fusion cuisine has won him invitations to New Y ork City’s James Bear d house and many local accolades. $$$ p f h ✿ AUSTIN’S 4950 U.S. 42, 423-1990. Big, crowded and bistro-style, with heavy emphasis on the bar , this suburban watering hole taps the same vein as the national franchise booze ’n’ beef genre, and does so well, offering satisfying dining at a fair price. $$ p ✿ AVALON 1314 Bar dstown Rd., 454-5336. W ith renovation r eaching completion, and new chef Laurence Agnew r edirecting the kitchen, this stylish spot on Bardstown Road is in the process of reinventing itself, moving towar d a lounge dining concept, with new fixtur es, sofas r eplacing some tables, and a lower price point. $$$ p f ✿ BASA MODERN VIETNAMESE 2244 Frankfort Ave., 896-1016. Michael and Steven T on ar e winning raves, including a “long list” James Bear d nomination for top new r estaurant in the Southeast.

This sleek and upscale r estaurant’s “fusion” blend

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CLUB GROTTO 2116 Bardstown Rd., 459-5275. Club Grotto’s stylish and romantically dim environs add up to a comfor table, familiar Highlands spot that’s w orth making a special ef fort to r emember. $$$ p ✿ COACH LAMP REST AURANT 751 V ine St., 5839165. This urban neighborhood tavern serves “pub grub” for lunch, but Coach Lamp turns into a more serious dining r oom Wednesday through Saturday evenings with dishes that range fr om down-home favorites to pastas. $$$ f ✿ CORNER CAFÉ 9307 New Lagrange Rd., 426-8119.

There’s nothing fancy or overly elegant about this suburban neighborhood old favorite, but the term “eclectic” fits it well. $$ p ✿ EQUUS 122 Sears A ve., 897-9721. W ith the newish Corbett’s in the East End hitting on all cylinders, veteran Chef Dean Corbett has r eturned to his flagship St. Matthews r estaurant, r edesigning the room for a more casual atmosphere, and refocusing the menu on comfor t foods, with no entrée over $19. Though the prices ar e lower, we don’t expect the quality of fare to follow suit. $$$ p ✿ GILMAN’S POINT 3930 Chenoweth Ln., 893-0106.

The casually sophisticated style of this St. Matthews

aspect of its 1960s-era pr edecessor, a local saloon, but upgrades it with cr eative American far e in a bistro setting. $$$$ p e h ✿

eatery focuses on steaks and upscale main dishes as well as a range of excellent libations. $$$ p f

eh✿ INTERMEZZO CAFÉ & CABARET 316 W. Main St., 584-1265. The elegant r estaurant space in Actor’ s Theatre of Louisville’ s historic building featur es casual American bistr o fare in an attractive dining room, plus nightly entertainment in a cabaret style. $$$ p e ✿ J. ALEXANDER’S RESTAURANT 102 Oxmoor Court, 339-2206. This comfor tably upscale venue, a Nashville-based chain, featur es “contemporar y American” fare with a broad menu that ranges from burgers and sandwiches to such upscale eats as grilled tuna or a New York strip steak. $$$ p f ✿ J. HARROD’S 7507 Upper River Rd., 228-4555. J. Harrod’s is discr eetly tasteful and pleasantly comfortable. The food is competitive in both quality and value. It’s an appealing, upscale blend of bistro fare and old-fashioned country cooking. $$$ p ✿ JACK FR Y’S 1007 Bar dstown Rd., 452-9244. If you want to give visiting friends a one-shot sample of Louisville’s urban dining style, ther e’s no better destination than Jack Fr y’s. This popular spot is always packed. It saves just a whif f of the raf fish

JARFI’S AT GLENMARY 10200 Glenmary Farm Dr., 239-3500. Longtime r estaurateur Jeff Jarfi — with his Jar fi’s Bistr o in the Highlands, his catering operation and a café in the Muhammad Ali Center — is skillfully dir ecting the dining r oom at Fern Creek’s Glenmar y Countr y Club, ser ving lunch, dinner and Sunday brunch to members and public alike. $$$ p f ✿ JARFI’S BISTRO 1543 Bardstown Rd. 589-5060 Jef f Jarfi has put his own mark on the Bar dstown Road space that old timers still call the old Lentini’ s.

With a sushi bar and menu that r eflects his Moroccan heritage and eclectic influences, he has made the r oom into something mor e elegantly continental. $$$ p f ✿ JOHN E’S 3708 Bar dstown Rd., 456-1111. This old Louisville tradition earns a warm recommendation.

From its cozy setting in an historic Buechel home to its down-home ser vice to its good Americanstyle fare at reasonable prices. $$$$ p e ✿ KRESO’S RESTAURANT 218 N. Third St., Bardstown KY, 348-9594. A former theater now houses a charming r estaurant run by a friendly Bosnian couple. Lunch and dinner feature eclectic fare from Bosnian salads to W ienerschnitzel and goulash.

There’s a lar ge bar , and the r enovated theatr e is available for parties and receptions. $$$ p KT’S 2300 Lexington Rd., 458-8888. It’s hard to argue with success, and KT’s has earned its popularity by providing good American-style bar and bistro chow for a price that’s fair. $$ p f h ✿ LYLIA’S ENCORE 501 W. Main St., 245-7734. After two fine-dining shows (Kentucky Cove and Jar fi’s Bistro) went dark, management has appar ently decided to pr ovide food ser vice at a lower pr ofile: Lylia’s Encor e, operated by popular local Ladyfinger’s Catering, will be a buf fet-style eatery, open only before shows in the Center. $$$ p MAKER’S MARK BOURBON HOUSE & LOUNGE 446 S. Four th St., (Four th Street Live) 568-9009.

Kentucky’s Maker’s Mark Distiller y lends its name and its signatur e r ed-wax image to this stylish restaurant and lounge in the booming downtown entertainment complex. A magisterial bar featur es more than 60 Bourbons, and the menu of fers traditional Kentucky fare. $$$ p f h ✿ MELTING POT 2045 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-3125.

This Florida-based chain brings back pleasant memories of fondue par ties of the ’70s. If you can melt it and dip things in it, the Melting Pot probably has it on the menu. $$$ p ✿ MOJITO TAPAS RESTAURANT 2231 Holiday Manor Shopping Center , 425-0949. (see r eview under European/Spanish) NAPA RIVER GRILL 1211 Herr Ln., 893-0141. This popular destination has earned top rank for its innovative wine-country cuisine, excellent ser vice and fine California-focused wine collection. W ith stylish new quarters and an expanded menu, it’s now drawing crowds to Westport Village. $$$ p f h ✿ NORTH END CAFÉ 1722 Frankfort Ave., 896-8770.

This atmospheric Clifton spot in an ar tfully redesigned old shotgun house is one of the city’ s most popular spots for upscale casual dining. The eclectic menu of fers diverse tapas and inter esting entrées. It’s an appealing, af fordable place to dine. $$$ f h ✿ OLD STONE INN 6905 Shelbyville Rd., Simpsonville, KY, (502) 722-8200. For many years diners have happily driven out to Simpsonville to enjoy both the historic building and the traditional Kentucky menu of this dining institution. Those in the know order the fried chicken and country ham. $$$ p f

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OLIVIA’S ON GOSS 946 Goss A ve., 409-6160. This huge, redbrick 19th century factory location houses the Goss A venue Antique Mall and this stylish luncheon spot. Open 7 days a week, Chef T ravis Hall (formerly of Eva Mae’s) offers soups, salads and daily specials. $ f ✿

WINDSOR RESTAURANT & GARDEN 148 E. Market St., New Albany, IN, 944-9688. With New Albany on the rise, new chef Cor y Cuff is making his mark on this upscale casual restaurant, housed in an historic hotel building. When weather permits, diners can enjoy the charming courtyard. $$$ p f e ✿

P.F. CHANG’S CHINA BISTRO 9120 Shelbyville Rd., 327-7707. This Arizona-based, Chinese themed restaurant offers a loud, happy scene with Chinesestyle dishes. T o its cr edit, ever ything is pr epared well and service is consistently fine. $$ p h ✿

YACHING’S EAST WEST CUISINE 105 S. Four th St., 585-4005. Yaching’s promises “an eclectic menu of contemporar y Asian fusion cuisine.” It’ s an attractive mix of East and W est, sufficient to give just about everyone something to enjoy, regardless of which compass point attracts your taste buds. $$$ p ✿

THE P ATRON 3400 Frankfor t A ve., 896-1661.

Viewed fr om the perspective of an evening meal, the Patron offers some of the best cooking in town.

Chef Amber McCool of fers a dinner menu that changes fr equently, based on what’ s available and perhaps the chef ’s whim. It’s not just adventur ous but civilized. $$ p ✿ RED ST AR T AVERN 450 S. Four th St., 568-5656.

Billed as “a hip, contemporary version of the classic American tavern,” this chain operation in Four th Street Live features steaks, chops and seafood in an atmosphere that’s upscale and clubby, with an extensive bar as a key part of the action. $$$ p f h UPTOWN CAFÉ 1624 Bar dstown Rd., 458-4212.

Across the str eet and a step downscale fr om its partner, Café Metr o, the Uptown Café of fers excellent far e with a bistr o feel for quite a few bucks less. $$ p f ✿ VARANESE 2106 Frankfor t A ve., 899-9904. Chef John Varanese has made even old-timers forget that this stylish venue was once a gas station. W ith a slate interior water fall and a fr ont wall that folds open in good weather , the dining r oom is as interesting as the lively , international seasonal menu. Live jazz, contemporary ar t and urban style complete the mood. $$$ p f e ✿ VOLARE 2300 Frankfort Ave., 894-4446. (See review under European/Italian)

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ATRIUM CAFÉ 9940 Corporate Campus Dr. (Embassy Suites), 426-9191. An eclectic bistro atmosphere in the hear t of the hotel. Specials run fr om their popular crab cakes and array of pasta dishes to a Reuben sandwich or fruit pie. $$ p ✿ BAXTER STATION BAR & GRILL 1201 Payne St., 584-1635. This cozy spot looks a lot like a neighborhood saloon, but the eclectic menu and unique atmosphere take it a notch upscale, and the weatherized patio is comfortable almost year-round.

Take particular note of an impressive beer list to go with your meal. $$ p f ✿ BISTRO 301 301 W. Market St., 584-8337. Quality contemporary American cuisine in a stylish environment makes Bistro 301 a reasonable alternative when you’r e looking for upscale-casual dining downtown. $$$ p f ✿ BISTRO LE RELAIS 2817 Taylorsville Rd. (Bowman Field), 451-9020. This ar t deco spot makes stylish use of an historic 1920’s airport building to present elegant modern French cuisine. After a long run as a fine dining establishment, owner Anthony Dike

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has r ecently r einvented his r estaurant as a bistr o, sparked by the arrival of new chef Bill Lynch. $$$$

pfe✿ BLUEGRASS BISTRO 3819 Bar dstown Rd., 4094511. Chef Scott Schamel brings a gourmet-style sensibility to this attractive luncheon spot in the Derby City Antique Mall in Buechel. Menu choices rarely miss; if Possum Pie is the desser t special, don’t fail to choose it. $ ✿ BOURBONS BISTRO 2255 Frankfort Ave., 894-8838.

Bourbon, Kentucky’ s traditional nectar , owns a place of honor in Louisville eateries and watering holes that showcase its pleasur es. Bourbons Bistr o combines a fine bar and comfor tably upscalecasual r estaurant featuring what must be the world’s most comprehensive Bourbon list. The bill of far e is well-matched with the excellence of its libations. $$$ p f ✿ BRIX WINE BAR 12418 La Grange Rd., 243-1120.

The use of an exceptionally obscure wine term (it’s pronounced “bricks” and refers to the sugar content of ripe grapes at harvest) hints that the proprietors of this wine bar know their vino. Interesting wines and a shor t bistr o-style menu make it a welcome suburban alternative. $$ h e CAFÉ LOU LOU 106 Sears A ve, 893-7776, 2216 Dundee Rd., 459-9566. This popular spot wins critical raves and packs in cr owds. Owner -Chef Clay Wallace is comfor table with his international bill of fare and laissez les bon temps r ouler mood.

A second location in the Douglass Loop, is drawing equally-pleased crowds. $$ p ✿ DITTO’S GRILL 1114 Bar dstown Rd., 581-9129.

Highlands favorite. Chef/Co-owner Domonic Serratore — a pioneer of the local dining scene — offers an internationally eclectic bill of far e that ranges fr om Kansas City ribs and New England crab cakes to Thai chicken wings and Chinese burritos. $$ p h ✿

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HARD ROCK CAFÉ Fourth Str eet Live, 568-2202.

Louisville’s Fourth Street Live echoes with a bang amid hammering guitars and happy thr ongs at the local branch of this popular shrine to r ock. The music scene is the draw , but you’ll have no complaints about Har d Rock’ s standar d American cuisine. $$ p f e h ✿

CHRISANTA’S CAFÉ 1812 Br ownsboro Rd., 6182250. Don’t blink when you pass this small Clifton storefront down at the lower end of Brownsboro in Clifton, or you might miss your chance for a charming lunch. Mediterranean bistro fare includes a variety of panini, kabobs and comfortable Persian home cooking. $

JACK’S LOUNGE 122 Sears A ve., 897-9026. A sophisticated, elegant bar associated with the Equus restaurant next door, Jack’s offers a short but excellent menu featuring appetizers and light bites, along with a drinks list beyond reproach. $ p h ✿

CITY CAFÉ 505 W . B roadway, 589-1797, 1250 Bardstown Rd., 459-5600, 500 S. Pr eston St., 8525739. Chef Jim Henr y, a long-time star in the city’s culinary firmament, brings his cooking skills and insistence on fr esh, quality ingr edients to these simple, but excellent, spots for lunch. $ f ✿

L&N WINE BAR AND BISTRO 1765 Mellwood Ave., 897-0070. If you’r e enthusiastic about good wine, you’re going to be excited about L&N. The fruit of the vine takes center stage in a vast, fairly priced wine list and imposing Cruvinet dispenser , with over 80 wines available by the glass. Comfor table exposed-brick atmosphere and excellent bistro fare add to the draw. $$ p f h ✿ RAMSI’S CAFÉ ON THE WORLD 1293 Bardstown Rd., 451-0700. Small, funky and fun, this favorite spot of the Highlands’ Generation X crowd attracts foodies of all ages with its friendly setting, reasonable prices and well-pr epared international cuisine. $$ f e h ✿

ADRIANN’S AROUND THE T ABLE CUISINE 14041 Shelbyville Rd, 244-9695. Located out beyond the Snyder in the far East End, Adriann’ s offers family style diner far e ranging fr om sandwiches and wraps to fried chicken $ ✿ AROMA CAFÉ Horseshoe Casino Hotel, Elizabeth, IN, 888-766-2648. Grab a bite befor e hitting the casino. Sandwiches, salads, sides, cold beverages and cof fee will fuel you for a night of enter tainment. $ h ✿ AWAY CAFÉ 302 Pearl St., New Albany , IN, 9419025. After spending time traveling ar ound Europe, Pete L yons wanted a gathering place like the cafés of France and Italy — and decided to open one. Slated to open around the ides of March, the aW ay Café will of fer an eclectic menu, including scones and rolls in the morning, a global assortment of lunch soups and sandwiches, and light, healthy dinner offerings. $ h ✿ BLUE DOG BAKER Y AND CAFÉ 2868 Frankfort Ave., 899-9800. This bakery with its $50,000 Spanish wood-fired oven makes ar tisanal bread as good as you’ll find in the U.S., and competitive withthe best in Eur ope. Its comfor table, upscale café of fers a short selection of tasty dishes made to show off the fine breads. $$ p f ✿ BLUE MOUNTAIN COFFEEHOUSE & WINE BAR 400 E. Main St., 582-3220. Host Nicholas Arno adds a Jamaican accent, and Jamaican Blue Mountain cof fee is the specialty , at this sleek and sophisticated spot across Main from Slugger Field.

A coffee house by day, it adds a wine-bar vibe in the evenings. $ f h ✿ BULLDOG CAFÉ 10619 W. Manslick Rd., 380-0600. $fh✿ BUTTERFLY GARDEN CAFÉ 1327 Bar dstown Rd., 456-4500. This tasteful little spot of fers teas and lighter lunch fare in an attractive old-house setting. $f✿

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COLONNADE CAFÉ 834 E. Broadway, 749-3104. The Louisville Antique Mall moves from Goss Avenue to East Br oadway, and the familiar Colonnade, mourned upon its eviction from the Starks Building last year, comes back to life on the Antique Mall’ s fifth floor as a sit-down lunch spot with blue-plate menu specials. Works for us! $ p ✿ CRAVE CAFÉ & CA TERING 2250 Frankfor t A ve., 896-1488. Experienced cater ers and chefs of fer casual but quality café far e in this comfor table old frame house in Clifton. $ ✿ CREEKSIDE OUTPOST & CAFÉ 614 Hausfeldt Ln., New Albany IN, 948-9118. This atmosphere is something you won’t see every day — or week, month or year, for that matter. The Creekside Outpost warps customers back into the days of general stor es and maintains ever y bit of old fashioned charm. The Ladyhawk Café ser ves up lean buf falo, elk and surprisingly good bur gers. Exotic foods including Shinnecock ice fish, black bear , ostrich and kangaroo (when available) round out an excellent, traveled menu. $$ f ✿ CYCLERS CAFÉ 2295 Lexington Rd., 451-5152. Is it a bicycle shop or a r estaurant? Well, it’s both. This informal spot will sell you a first-rate sandwich, soup or salad or a tire for your bike — or the whole darn bike! $ f ✿ DERBY CAFÉ 704 Central A ve. (Kentucky Derby Museum), 634-0858. Lunch ser ved year-round in the dining area adjacent to the Derby Museum with such r egional favorites as meaty Bur goo, and the Hot Brown. $ f ✿ ERMIN’S BAKER Y & CAFÉ 1201 S. First St., 6356960, 723 S. Four th St., 587-9390, 455 S. Four th Ave., 585-5120, 9550 U.S. Hwy . 42, 228-7210, 2736 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 941-8674.

These popular bakeries attract cr owds looking for an enjoyable soup and sandwich lunch highlighted

by French-style breads and pastries. $ ✿ FUN FOOD CAFÉ 1860 Mellwood Ave., 895-1003. $ ✿ GRAPEVINE PANTRY & GIFT SHOP 11418 Old Main St., Middletown, KY , 245-1569. The Middletown Historic District is booming with stor efronts, restaurants and a laid back glimpse of the past. The Grapevine Pantry of fers homemade soups, sandwiches and salads, cakes and pies. (Closed January & February.) $ J. GRAHAM’S CAFÉ & BAR 335 W. Broadway (The Brown Hotel), 583-1234. The home of the legendary “Hot Br own” sandwich, J. Graham’ s offers a mor e casual bistr o-style alternative to the upscale English Grill, with choice of menu ser vice or buffet dining. $ f p JARFI’S CAFÉ 144 N. Sixth St. (Muhammad Ali Center) 992-5329. $$ ✿

CAFÉ FRAICHE 3642 Br ownsboro Rd., 894-8929.

Cuisine from around the world is featur ed at this East End neighbor hood café, featuring homemade soups, br eads and a variety of entrées on a seasonally changing menu. $ ✿

KAYROUZ CAFÉ 127 Wiltshire Ave., 896-2630. The younger generation of a long-standing local restaurant family offers soup and sandwich favorites and some Lebanese specialties in this small but stylish St. Matthews building. $ f ✿

CHEDDAR BOX CAFÉ 12121 Shelbyville Rd., 2452622. Ladies who lunch often do so her e, lured by an attractive selection of luncheon soups, salads and sandwiches and desserts. $$ f ✿

MERIDIAN CAFÉ 112 Meridian Ave., 897-9703. This little lunch spot occupies a cozy old house in St. Matthews. Ser vice is competent and polite, the place is sparkling clean, and the luncheon-style

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fare is consistently fine. A selection of appetizing breakfast items rounds out a tasty mix. $ f ✿ MR. Z’S KITCHEN 869 S. Thir d St., 584-8504. It’ s run by a friendly immigrant family fr om Eastern Europe, but the food is all-American at Mr . Z’ s Kitchen. It offers an appetizing option for a hear ty diner-style meal. $ ✿ PATTICAKES CAFÉ 1860 Mellwood Ave., 238-7387.

Located in the Mellwood Ar ts Center , Patticakes serves homemade soups and sandwiches — and cake, of course. Owner Patti Fadel offers more than 50 varieties of pound cake! $ f ✿ QUEUE CAFÉ 220 W. Main St. (LG&E Building), 583-0273. $ f ✿ STOP LITE CAFÉ 1348 River Rd., 584-3746. $ SWEET ‘N’ SA VORY CAFÉ 1574 Bar dstown Rd., 456-6566. Hear ty brunch far e with a vegetarian accent makes Sweet ‘n’ Savory a popular destination for the Bardstown Road bunch. $ ✿ SWEET SURRENDER 1804 Frankfor t A ve., 8992008. Sweet Surr ender, with Jessica Haskell at the helm, has r eturned to its original Clifton neighborhood to pr ovide elegant desser ts as well as signature vegetarian lunches. $$ f THE CAFÉ 712 Br ent St., 637-6869. Long hailed as one of the city’s most attractive places for a simple but stylish lunch, this local institution has moved from the old Louisville Antique Mall on Goss Avenue, to a mor e easily accessible stor efront location just off East Broadway. $ f THE CHEDDAR BOX 3909 Chenoweth Sq., 8932324. $ f ✿ THE LUNCH P AIL 502 E. W arnock St., 634-7116.

Offering yet another quick and comfor ting lunch option near U of L, this family-owned spot features warming soups and filling sandwiches. Lunch is offered year -round, with a dinner menu added from April through September. $ f ✿

CAROLINA SHRIMP & SEAFOOD 3922 Westport Rd., 894-8947. In an East End neighbor hood rich with seafood eateries, Carolina offers a tasty option within walking distance of downtown St. Matthews.

This spartan little joint featur es shellfish and cod, much of it healthfully steamed, not fried, in an affordable family setting. $ f CATFISH HA VEN LAKE & RESTAURANT 7208 Whipple Rd., 937-7658. If you like to fish, or if you like to eat fish, you’ll likely enjoy Catfish Haven, a simple, down-home eatery in Southwestern Jefferson County. Seafood is the specialty. Fishermen will enjoy their stocked pay-to-fish lake. Note though, it’s not possible to have your catch fried for dinner . $$ f CLARKSVILLE SEAFOOD 916 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville, IN, 283-8588. As the only sur viving descendant of Louisville’s old Cape Codder chain, Clarksville Seafood upholds a long and honorable tradition. The menu is simple — fried fish and fried seafood, ser ved on paper trays — but it is consistently excellent and affordable. $ THE FISH HOUSE 1310 W inter Ave., 568-2993.

Louisville is as over flowing as a well-stocked lake with fish-sandwich houses, and The Fish House is right up ther e with the best. Crisp br eading laced with black pepper is the signatur e of Gr een River fried fish from Western Kentucky. $ f THE FISHER Y 3624 Lexington Rd., 895-1188. The original fried-fish eater y in a neighbor hood that’s now awash with them, The Fishery r emains justly popular for its quick, sizzling hot and af fordable fish and seafood meals. $ f ✿

JOE’S CRAB SHACK 131 River Rd., 568-1171. The setting on the edge of River front Park is bright, noisy and fun, with a wraparound deck providing a panoramic river view. $$ p f KINGFISH REST AURANT 3021 Upper River Rd., 895-0544, 1610 Kentucky Mills Dr., 240-0700, 601 W. Riverside Dr ., Jef fersonville, IN, 284-3474.

Fried fish in a family dining setting has made this local chain a popular favorite for many years. T wo of its properties — upper River Road and Riverside Drive — boast river views. $$ p f e MACCA’S FLORIDA SEAFOOD GRILL & BAR 1315 Herr Ln., 618-2770. Upscale casual seafood and fish, this popular spot in W estport Village is upscale in menu and design but af fordable for families. $$ p f e h MARKET STREET FISH HOUSE 133 E. Market St., New Albany, IN, 590-3377. $ MIKE LINNIG’S 9308 Cane Run Rd., 937-9888. Mike Linnig’s has been dishing up tasty fried fish and seafood at family prices since 1925 and r emains immensely popular . Ther e’s indoor seating and a bar, but the picnic gr ove with its giant shade tr ees makes Linnig’s a special place in season. $ f

HILL STREET FISH FR Y 111 E. Hill St., 636-3474.

This Old Louisville tradition is small and easy to miss, but it’s worth the effort to get by. It’s oversized fried whitefish sandwich is the flagship dish, but a varied menu is also available. $ f

MITCHELL’S FISH MARKET 4031 Summit Plaza Dr., 412-1818. The decor of this upscale eater y evokes the feeling of a lar ge fish market, with an open kitchen that of fers views of chefs at work.

Quality seafood and ser vice has made Mitchell’ s a popular destination. $$$ p f ✿

ISLAMORADA FISH COMPANY 951 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 218-5300. Spawned by a

PASSTIME FISH HOUSE 4633. $$ f e

THIRD AVENUE CAFÉ 1164 South Third St., 5852233. W ith a menu featuring many vegetarian and vegan options, this pleasant neighbor hood eatery attracts loyal cr owds with excellent far e and a cozy setting that brings you back for more. $$ p f e ✿ TIFFANY CELLAR CAFÉ 4411. $ f ✿

beachside eatery in the Florida Keys, Islamorada Fish Company has locations in many of the nation’s 30 Bass Pr o Shops, including Clarksville’ s gigantic entry in the former River Falls Mall. Beach-shack decor adds fun, and its expansive menu of fers a broad selection of seafood and fish. $$ p

11601 Main St., 245-

WHITNEY’S DINER 3061 Br eckenridge Ln., 4545955. For many years a Fern Cr eek landmark before a shor t move west, Whitney’ s r emains a comfortable spot for a casual, diner-style breakfast, lunch or dinner. $ ✿

10801 Locust Rd., 267-

Now Serving Breakfast, Brunch & Lunch in Westport Village!

‘‘Wild Eggs ... I Think I Love You.’’

WILD EGGS 3985 Dutchmans Ln., 893-8005, 1311 Herr Ln., 618-2866. The owners of Napa River Grill have hit a home run with these popular, highquality spots, the first two in a gr owing minichain. Wild Eggs, ser ving breakfast, brunch and lunch, features traditional favorites and specialty omelets, with upscale touches at moderate prices. $p✿ WOLFGANG PUCK EXPRESS 221 S. Fourth St., 5620983. Bearing the name of the celebrity Austrian chef, this downtown lunch spot in the corner of the convention center of fers tasty wraps, sandwiches and soups. $$ f YAFA CAFÉ 22 Theater Sq., 561-0220. $ f h ✿ ZEPPELIN CAFÉ 1036 E. Burnett St., 365-3551. $$ h ✿

BONEFISH GRILL 657 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy ., 4124666. This franchise concept fr om the Floridabased Outback Steakhouse chain of fers impressive seafood in a comfor table setting. Add Bonefish to your shor t list of suburban chain eateries that do the job right. $$$ p ✿

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DUTCHMAN’S LANE AND W E S T P O RT V I L L A G E crackinwildeggs.com

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RUMORS REST AURANT & RA W BAR 12339 Shelbyville Rd., 245-0366. Visualize Hooter’s without the scantily-clad waitresses, and you’ve drawn a bead on Rumor’ s, the original Louisville home of the bucket-of-oysters and impressive raw bar. $$ p f SHAROM’S 5637 Outer Loop, 968-8363. Family owned and family style dining with a wide net of seafood dinners and appetizers. Lunch and dinner menus also include such delicacies as fr og legs, shrimp and alligator. $$ p SKIP JACK’S 1418 Blackiston Mill Rd., Clarksville IN, 282-7557. $ SON OF A SAILOR SEAFOOD REST AURANT 617 W. Jefferson St., LaGrange, KY, 265-2202. Son Of A Sailor of fers seafood Calabash-style (“bound” breading with seasoned flour and cornmeal, popular in the Carolinas.) Munch the free, slightly sweet hush puppies while you wait. $$ f STAN’S FISH SANDWICH 3723 Lexington Rd., 8966600. The fish is the thing at Stan’ s, wher e the owner is a perfectionist who won’t sell any but the freshest fish, per fectly pr epared. Known for their fish sandwich, daily specials take advantage of fresh product. $ ✿ WET WILLIE’S 441 S. Four th St., 581-1332. Stand Up Live, melding the Florida-based seafood chain Capt. Brien’ s Seafood with W et W illie’s, adds a comedy club … with seafood … to the action at Fourth Street Live. $$$ p f e h ✿ ] BABBY’S STEAKHOUSE 1207 E. Market St., Jeffersonville, IN., 288-2411. This independentminded steakhouse is one of the metr o area’s best values for exper tly prepared steaks. They come in all the usual sizes and configurations, but someone in the kitchen has definite opinions about seasoning and grilling. The r esult is a distinctive approach that rewards a visit. $$ f DEL FRISCO’S 4107 Oechsli A ve., 897-7077. Once ranked among the city’ s top steakhouses, Del Frisco’s remains strong in its core competency. For deeply marbled, fork-tender prime steaks, it’ s still hard to beat on quality points. $$$$ p FIFTH QUARTER STEAKHOUSE 1241 Durrett Ln., 361-2363. The Fifth Quarter offers steaks and beef in a nostalgic family atmosphere. $$$ p f e JACK BINION’S STEAKHOUSE Horseshoe Casino Hotel, Elizabeth, IN, 888-766-2648. (see listing under Fine Dining) JEFF RUBY’S STEAKHOUSE 325 W. Main St., 5840102. Cincinnati restaurateur Jeff Ruby, who owns five upscale eateries in the upriver city and one at Indiana’s Belterra Casino, now hosts this glitzy Louisville pr operty, an upscale steak house that bears his name. Fine beef is the main draw , with seafood and even sushi as a plus. $$$$ p e LOGAN’S ROADHOUSE 5055 Shelbyville Rd., 8933884, 5229 Dixie Hwy ., 448-0577, 970 Hwy . 131, Clarksville, IN, 288-9789. W ith mor e than 100 properties in 17 states, this Nashville-based chain parlays peanut shells on the floor and steaks on the table into a popular formula. $$ p LONGHORN STEAKHOUSE 2535 Hurstbourne Ln., 671-5350, 9700 V on Allmen Ct., 326-7500, 1210 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN. 284-5800. Oversize steaks and a “big sky” western theme ar e the draw at this chain eatery , although most of its properties are east of the Mississippi. $$ p MORTON’S 626 W. Main St., 584-0421. The steaks are as good as it gets, the atmospher e is elegant without being stuffy, and the service is outstanding.

Morton’s earns a solid three stars and ranks among the top tier of Louisville’ s upscale dining choices. $$$$ p

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OUTBACK STEAK HOUSE 4621 Shelbyville Rd., 895-4329, 6520 Signatur e Dr ., 964-8383, 9498 Brownsboro Rd., 426-4329, 8101 Bar dstown Rd., 231-2399, 1420 Park Place, Clarksville, IN, 2834329. The name suggests Australia, and so does the shtick at this popular national chain, but the food is pretty much familiar American, and the fare goes beyond just steak to take in chicken, seafood and pasta. $$$ p PAT’S STEAK HOUSE 2437 Br ownsboro Rd., 8969234. A local favorite for fifty years and as traditional as a steakhouse gets, Pat Francis, like his father befor e him, cuts the meats himself. Its combination of quality beef and hospitality rank it among the best steak houses in town. Be sur e to bring cash: No credit cards accepted. $$$$ p f PONDEROSA STEAKHOUSE 11470 S. Pr eston Hwy., 964-6117, 816 S. KY 53, La Grange, KY, 2221226. Family-style dining with the ranch theme kept alive with the open flame fr om the grills. An extensive buf fet with hot and cold foods, salads and desserts is also available. $ ✿ RUTH’S CHRIS STEAKHOUSE 6100 Dutchman’ s Ln., 479-0026. The Robb Report magazine has declared Rolex the world’s best watch, Armani the best men’s suit, Cohiba the best cigar and Ruth’ s Chris the best r estaurant. It ser ves an excellent steak in an atmospher e of elegance that will make you feel pampered, at a price to match. $$$$ p RYAN’S FAMILY STEAKHOUSE 5338 Bardstown Rd., 491-1088. This popular North Carolina-based chain offers family dining with good variety: Its diverse and extensive buffet features over 150 items. $$ STONEY RIVER LEGENDARY STEAK 3900 Summit Plaza Dr ., 429-8944. Stoney River in the Springhurst shopping center is one of the chain’ s first properties outside its Geor gia home. It draws big crowds with its memorable steaks and trimmings, with extra points for friendly ser vice and a comfortable atmosphere. $$$$ p h TEXAS ROADHOUSE Green Tree Mall, Clarksville, IN, 280-1103, 4406 Dixie Hwy . 448-0705, 6460 Dutchman’s Pkwy., 897-5005, 3322 Outer Loop, 962-7600. The spirit of the West sets the theme for this popular steak house. Salads, vegetables and breads with hearty side dishes round out your meal options. This is family-style dining, with no tray sliding — service at your table. $$ p TUMBLEWEED SOUTHWEST GRILL (17 locations) (see listing under Southwest/Tex Mex)

A NICE REST AURANT 3105 Blackiston Mill Rd., New Albany IN, 945-4321, 2784 Meijer Dr ., 2809160, Jef fersonville, IN, 404 Lafollette Station, Floyds Knobs, IN, 923-7770. A Nice Restaurant, billed as “New Albany’s Finer Diner,” is, well, nice enough to have launched two mor e branches. All specialize in simple, down-home br eakfast and lunch at affordable prices. $ APPLEBEE’S (8 locations) This cheery national chain features an eclectic assor tment of salads, steaks, ribs, poultr y and pasta as well as full bar ser vice.

It’s as consistent as a cookie cutter , but competent execution makes it a good bargain for those whose tastes run to mainstream American cuisine. $$ p h ASPEN CREEK REST AURANT 8000 Bar dstown Rd., 239-2200. The entr epreneur who cr eated T exas Roadhouse and Buckhead’ s is back with a concept that’s both old and new — a lodge-style r estaurant that invokes the rustic feel of the Rockies, and of fers a menu of pastas, bur gers, and poultry at prices that aren’t mountain high. $$ p h ✿ B.J.’S RESTAURANT & BREWHOUSE 7900 Shelbyville Rd., 326-3850. This Southern California chain arrived east of the Mississippi, including a lar ge

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and imposing brewhouse at Oxmoor Center. A full range of made-in-Nevada craft beers is dispensed, along with upscale-casual pub grub. $$ p h BLUEGRASS GRILL & BAR 1041 Zorn A ve., 8975101. Formerly Anytimes, this Ramada Inn dining room now features Kentucky products from catfish to pork barbecue with traditional Henr y Bain sauce. $$ p f e h BUCKHEAD MOUNT AIN GRILL 3020 Bar dstown Rd., 456-6680, 4112 Outer Loop, 966-5555, 707 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 284-2919, 10206 Westport Rd., 339-0808. Buckhead’s combination of mountain lodge atmosphere and American-style fare make these popular destinations. The large menu features down-home staples like meat loaf, pot pies, steak, ribs, and lighter far e for warm weather dining. The view of Louisville’ s skyline fr om the riverfront location is not to be missed. $$ p f h ✿ CAFÉ MAGNOLIA 140 N. Four th St. (Galt House), 589-5200. The Galt House’ s quick and casual second-floor dining alternative, this spacious venue of fers a range of far e for guests on the go, from bacon and eggs to a late-night bur ger and fries. $$$ p ✿ CAPTAIN’S QUAR TERS 5700 Captain’ s Quar ters Rd., 228-1651. One of the city’ s most attractive eateries for atmospher e, Captain’ s Quar ters matches the beautiful setting with quality bistr ostyle fare that won’t disappoint. Summer or winter, it’s a delightful place to dine. $$ p f e ✿ CARDINAL HALL OF FAME CAFÉ 2745 Crittenden Dr., 635-8686. This oversize eatery at Gate 4 of the Kentucky Fair & Exposition Center celebrates U of L spor ts with a “walk of fame” loaded with awards, photos, game balls and lots more Cardinal memorabilia. What? Y ou want food too? Sur e!

Casual American dining features everything from a “Cardinal Burger” to steaks and prime rib. $$ p h CARLY RAE’S 103 W . Oak St., 365-1003. This attractive Old Louisville spot with its beautiful patio offers a diverse and appealing menu with an unusually wide variety of casual dining options. $$

pfh✿ CHAMPIONS GRILL 505 Marriott Dr. (Holiday Inn), Clarksville, IN., 283-4411. Known by locals for its Saturday night buffet of New York strip, ribeye and prime rib. Salads, sandwiches, soups and a kidfriendly menu round out the selection. $$ p e ✿ CHEDDAR’S CASUAL CAFÉ 10403 W estport Rd., 339-5400, 1385 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 2809660. This p opular Dallas-based chain, drawing big, hungry crowds with its lar ge bar and familiar “casual to upscale American” fare. $ p h ✿ CHICK INN 6325 Upper River Rd., 228-3646.

Louisville’s familiar Chick Inn moved into upgraded quarters after a fire several years ago, but regulars still call it the “new place.” The fried chicken remains estimable, and a local cr owd calls it home base. $$ p f CHILI’S 421 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy ., 425-6800, 3623 Bardstown Rd., 301-8888; 11600 Antonia W ay, 301-8181,9720 Von Allmen Ct., 301-8880. Mor e than just a place to chow down on baby back ribs, this national chain has a wide selection including fajitas, burgers, sandwiches and veggies. $$ p ✿ CHOPSHOP SALADS 436 W. Market St., 589-2467. $✿ CULVER’S 4630 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy ., 671-2001.

When the trademark item is called a “ButterBurger” and fr ozen custar d tops the desser t menu, you know you’re not in for diet far e. Quality fast food and friendly service make this chain a popular new East End arrival. $ f CUNNINGHAM’S 630 S. Fourth St., 587-0526, 6301 Upper River Rd., 228-3625. Carrying on into its third century in modern quarters that capture much

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of the nostalgia of its history, Cunningham’s vends fine fish sandwiches and pub grub in this downtown location and in a second eater y on Harr ods Creek. $ f CUTTER’S WHARF 1902 Victory Ct., Prospect, 2283100. This floating r estaurant near Harmony Landing in Oldham County r eplaces Har vey’s On The River . In its curr ent incarnation, diners will find fish, steaks, pastas and home-made pizzas, along with the requisite river-rat bar foods.(Closes for winter — reopens in March.) $$ p f h EVA MAE’S CREEKSIDE 6313 River Rd., 614-6338. $$ p f FIRESIDE BAR & GRILL 7611 IN 311, Sellersbur g, IN, 246-5456. Best known for the specially seasoned fried chicken. They also make excellent pastas, steaks, seafood, and salads. Homemade soups ar e created daily and cof fee and desser ts ar e always fresh. $$ p ✿ FIVE GUYS BURGERS & FRIES 2221 State Str eet, New Albany, IN, 944-9958, 4320 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 944-7370. Based in V irginia, this burger chain invokes the early days of fast food with fr eshly-grilled bur gers, big, smoky Kosher dogs, enough condiments to satisfy any craving, fresh-cut fries that ar e out of this world and a cheery rock’n’ roll sensibility. $ h GAVI’S RESTAURANT 222 S. Seventh St., 583-8183.

This family-owned eater y has been ar ound for decades. Standard casual American cuisine adds a few Russian-style specialties such as homemade borsht soup and beef Str oganoff. Daily lunch specials include lots of fresh vegetable dishes. $ ✿ GOOSE CREEK DINER 2923 Goose Creek Rd., 3398070. Goose Cr eek Diner of fers old-fashioned comfort food, as the name “diner” suggests, but transcendently adds a gourmet taste to the downhome eats. $ HOME RUN BURGERS & FRIES 2060 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 409-7004. Burgers, dogs and fries and drinks with a baseball theme highlight this suburban spot, and mor e than 20 toppings of fer you a fielder’ s choice of options to dress your burger. $ f ✿ HOOTERS 4120 Dutchmans Ln., 895-7100; 4948 Dixie Hwy., 449-4194; 7701 Pr eston Hwy., 9681606; 700 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville, IN, 2189485; 941 East Hwy. 131, Clarksville, IN 284-9464.

Hooter’s may draw cr owds with its long-standing reputation as a par ty scene, but you’ll stay for the food, an appetizing selection of soups, salads, seafood and of course wings. $ p f e h INTERNATIONAL HOUSE OF P ANCAKES 1220 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN. 285-1772. This is currently the familiar IHOP franchise’ s sole property in the Louisville area. $ h ✿ JOE’S OLDER THAN DIRT 8131 New Lagrange Rd., 426-2074. Going str ong after many years in this Lyndon location, Joe’s has gradually gr own from a little house to a sprawling complex of indoor and outdoor tables with live music many evenings.

Excellent barbecue is a specialty, and so is ice-cold beer. $ p e h KAELIN’S RESTAURANT 1801 Newbur g Rd., 4511801. This Highlands tradition has been around for almost 70 years, and their cheeky claim to have invented the cheesebur ger actually seems to have some basis in fact. A spacious patio and r ecent renovations keep it up to date. $ f ✿

— with a few Middle Eastern dishes for accent — in a casually artsy and informal setting. $ f h ✿ KERN’S KORNER 2600 Bar dstown Rd., 456-9726.

This family-owned tavern has been a popular neighborhood pit stop since 1978. Kern’ s of fers freshly made ham, chicken salad sandwiches and burgers, as well as a menu of soups, chilis and appetizers. $ p LEGENDS Horseshoe Casino Hotel, Elizabeth, IN, 888-766-2648. The hot and cold shor t or ders ar e served up with riverboat hospitality , but in a Las Vegas atmospher e. A well stocked bar and a live stage welcome the best of r egional and visiting national acts fr om W ednesday thr ough Satur day nights. $$ p e h LYNN’S PARADISE CAFÉ 984 Barret Ave., 583-3447.

One of the most popular places in town for brunch, Lynn’s Paradise Café lur es happy, hungr y cr owds with its hear ty far e and funky decor . L ynn’s sponsors the State Fair’ s tongue-in-cheek Ugliest Lamp Contest, but ther e’s nothing ugly about the delicious and filling food. $$ p ✿ MANHATTAN GRILL 429 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 561-0024. $ ✿ MASTERSON’S 1830 S. Thir d St., 636-2511. A fine, family Louisville tradition, this familiar T udor structure near the U of L campus is the state’ s largest full-ser vice restaurant and the city’ s largest caterer. Scaling back in r esponse to economic conditions, Masterson’ s now is open only for Sunday Jazz Brunch. $ e MAX & ERMA ’S 2901 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy ., 4939662, 3921 Summit Plaza Dr ., 412-5229. Max & Erma’s, a national chain that star ted in Columbus, Ohio’s German Village in 1972, has grown to nearly 100 pr operties with a steady formula of friendly service and casual-dining far e that ranges fr om specialty bur gers, soups and salads to mor e weighty entrées. $$ p f ✿ MIMI’S CAFÉ 615 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy ., 426-6588.

This California chain, a subsidiar y of Bob Evans, goes urban and upscale where farmer Bob is folksy and country. This new East End location is drawing crowds, building its r eputation on those familiar with the chain from other places. $$ ✿ THE MONKEY WRENCH 1025 Barret Ave., 582-2433.

A popular spot in the urban neighborhood where the Highlands meet Germantown, The Monkey W rench offers comfort food with a stylish spin, top flight music, a relaxed ambience and welcoming ser vice.

The rooftop patio, scheduled to open soon, will add another dimension to the fun. $ p f e h ✿ O’CHARLEY’S (6 locations) O’Charley’ s, Inc. could serve well as the pictur e in the dictionar y next to “American casual dining.” The Nashville-based chain operates 206 pr operties in 16 states in the Southeast and Midwest, ser ving a straightfor ward steakand-seafood menu with the motto “Mainstream with an attitude.” $$ p h OTTO’S CAFÉ 500 S. Four th St. (Seelbach Hilton Hotel), 585-3201. Southern cooking with gourmet flair makes Otto’ s an intriguing alternative to the Seelbach’s more upscale Oakr oom. Check out the Southern Br eakfast Buf fet and the Executive Express Lunch Buffet. $ PEPPERS BAR & GRILL 320 W. Jefferson St., (Hyatt Regency) 587-3434. The casual-dining facility in the Hyatt Regency of fers a full dinner menu for hotel guests and outside visitors as well. $$$p h ✿

KAREM’S 9424 Nor ton Commons Blvd., 327-5646.

Karem’s Grill & Pub, one of the first r estaurants to open in the village-like Nor ton Commons, carries the look and feel of a neighbor hood watering hole inside and out. The test of a r estaurant, though, is the food, and Karem’s is excellent. $ p f

PUB LOUISVILLE Fourth Str eet Live 569-7782.

Owned by Cincinnati’ s The T avern Restaurant Group, The Pub featur es “nouveau pub cuisine” ranging from shepherd’s pie and fish and chips to more Continental dishes like fried calamari and a seared ahi tuna entrée. $$ p f h

KARMA CAFÉ 1126 Bardstown Rd., 587-0062. Karma Café stays open late and of fers diner-style courses

RAFFERTY’S OF LOUISVILLE 988 Br eckenridge Ln., 897-3900. 3601 Springhurst Blvd., 412-9000.

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Celebrating 58 years as Louisville’s hometown favorite for top quality seafood and much, much more.

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THREE CONVENIENT LOCATIONS: On the River: 3021 Upper River Road ■ 895-0544 (Just east of Zorn Ave @ I-71)

601 W. Riverside ■ 284-3474 (On the Jeffersonville riverfront across from Louisville)

Around Town: 1610 Kentucky Mills Dr. ■ 240-0700 (Blankenbaker @ 1-64)

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This full-service, casual dining establishment has a hearty menu. Specialties like Red Alfr edo Pasta showcase the gourmet offerings along with some of the largest and most creative salad combinations in town. $$ p ✿ RED ROBIN GOURMET BURGERS 9870 Von Allmen Ct., 339-8616, 5000 Shelbyville Rd., 899-9001.

The Robin, a Seattle-based chain well r egarded for “gourmet burgers” and trimmings, has now landed in two East End locations. Despite a full bar , it reportedly attracts hordes of happy youngsters. $$

pfh ROOSTER’S 7405 Pr eston Hwy ., 964-9464. This Columbus-based wings-and-br ews chain conquered Ohio and is now spr eading its franchise wings acr oss the Eastern U.S. Its first Louisville property is gaining popularity for a lively sports bar setting and oversize wings. $ p f h RUBY TUESDAY 11701 Bluegrass Pkwy ., 267-7100, 1354 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN. 288-5010. If success demonstrates quality, then Ruby T uesday’s 600 international properties and 30,000 employees can stand up with pride. They’ve been upholding the slogan “A wesome Food. Serious Salad Bar” in Louisville for a generation. $$ p h ✿ THE RUDYARD KIPLING 422 W. Oak St., 636-1311.

The word “eclectic” fits this Old Louisville eater y in just about every dimension, from its funky decor to its diverse bill of fare, not to mention an array of entertainment that bridges the generations fr om Generation X’ers to aging hippies. $ p f e h ✿ SAM’S FOOD & SPIRITS 3800 Payne Kohler Rd., Clarksville, IN, 945-9757. Opened by a man named Sam some 16 years ago, this popular Southern Indiana institution feeds an army of happy diners. Y ou’ll find seafood, steaks, pastas, salads and desser ts. The menu is extensive and child friendly. $$ p h ✿ SHONEY’S 811 Eastern Pkwy ., 636-1043, 6511 Signature Dr ., 969-8904. For nearly 50 years, Shoney’s r estaurants have been one of America’ s top choices for fast r oadside dining, and happily they’ve kept up with the times. $ SKYLINE CHILI 1266 Bar dstown Rd., 473-1234, Plainview V illage Center, 429-5773, 4024 Dutchman’s Ln., 721-0093, 6801 Dixie Hwy ., 937-4020, 426 W . Market St., 561-9999 721-0093, 4024 Dutchman’s Ln. Louisville’ s outposts of a famous Cincinnati chili r estaurant, these casual eateries offer the r egional favorite (r eally it’ s Gr eek spaghetti sauce, but keep it quiet) and other fastfood dishes. $ h ✿ SPORTSVILLE GRILL & BAR 4004 Gardiner Point Dr., 753-4413. Y ou’ll find a varied menu and a sports-bar theme at Spor tsville Grill, dining r oom of the Holiday Inn Airport East. $$ p ✿ STEAK N SHAKE 3232 Bar dstown Rd., 456-2670, 4913 Dixie Hwy ., 448-4400, 4545 Outer Loop, 966-3109, 2717 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy ., 491-3397, 10721 Fischer Park Dr ., 326-3625, 980 E. Hwy .

131, Clarksville, IN., 285-1154. One of the oldest fast-food chains in the U.S., Steak N Shake traces its ancestry to an Illinois roadside stand in 1934. It now boasts 400 outlets in 19 states but still sticks to the basics: quality steak burgers and hand-dipped shakes served, if you dine in, on real china. $ h ✿

simple yet exciting menu adds a tongue-in-cheek bistro spin to traditional diner far e. $ p f ✿ TOMMY LANCASTER’S REST AURANT 1629 E. Market St., New Albany, IN, 945-2389. V alue and variety ar e the str ong points of this community tradition and the far e goes fr om burgers to steak.

Friday or Saturday evenings feature a buffet. $$ p TRELLIS RESTAURANT 320 W. Jefferson St. (Hyatt Regency), 587-3434. Dine on café far e in the Hyatt’s lofty atrium lobby while you take advantage of an environment made for people-watching. $$ p TUCKER’S 2441 State St., New Albany, IN, 944-9999.

Tucker’s gives you a little bit of ever ything with a down-to-earth flair, offering burgers, ribs, steaks, a variety of appetizers and pastas. $ p TWIG & LEAF RESTAURANT 2122 Bardstown Rd., 451-8944. A popular Highlands hangout, the “Twig” is probably at its best for breakfast — whether you’re enjoying it while venturing out on a leisur ely Sunday morning or heading home ver y late on a Saturday night. It’ s a place to grab a quick, filling bite, and doesn’t pretend to be more. $ h ✿ THE VILLA BUFFET Horseshoe Casino Hotel, Elizabeth, IN, 888-766-2648. The V illa Buf fet offers an impressive choice of international dishes, with some 150 selections. A seafood buf fet is featured on Fridays. $$ ✿ WESTPORT GENERAL STORE 7008 Hwy . 524, Westport, KY., 222-4626. Only a half-hour’ s drive up the Ohio fr om Louisville, pr oprietors Will and Laura Crawfor d welcome visitors to this cozy destination, of fering a comfor tably sophisticated bill of fare that would in no way be out of place in a fancy city bistro. $$ ✿ THE WING ZONE 905 Hess Ln., 636-2445. Another new wings emporium situated to catch the fancy of U of L fans, Wing Zone excels with jumbo wings in 25 flavors, including traditional Buffalo-style wings that range from Mild to Nuclear. $ f h XAVIER’S 120 W. Broadway (Holiday Inn), 582-2241.

The dining r oom in the Holiday Inn Downtown sports a moniker that evokes memories of the historic St. Xavier High School building that stood on this site for mor e than a century until the Holiday Inn was built in 1963. $$ p ✿

BARBARA LEE’S KITCHEN 2410 Br ownsboro Rd., 897-3967. Barbara Lee’ s has been a late-night refuge for years. It’s a r eliable standby for those in search of traditional blue-plate special lunch food.

Honest grub, honestly priced, in a r ootsy atmosphere. $ h BIG MOMMA’S SOUL KITCHEN 4532 W. Broadway, 772-9580. Big Momma’ s may be the most hospitable place in the W est End to get genuine soul food. A different main course is featured daily, all home-cooked food, including such goodies as baked chicken, smother ed pork chops, meat loaf, catfish … and fried chicken every day. $ ✿ CAROLYN’S 3822 Cane Run Rd., 776-9519. The steam table classic, the “meat ‘n’ two” gives you the roast chicken, gr een beans and mashed potatoes.

Or pork chops, applesauce and limas. $

TGI FRIDA Y’S 9990 Linn Station Rd., 425-8185, Fourth Street Live, 585-3577. The original place to loosen the tie and congr egate after the whistle blows. TGIF carries on its par ty atmosphere tradition with American bistro dining and libations. The bill of fare ranges from baskets of appetizers on up to contemporary entrées. $$ p f h ✿

CHECK’S CAFÉ 1101 E. Burnett Ave., 637-9515. You can whif f a scent of Louisville history coming of f the old walls of this quintessential Germantown saloon, along with years of fr ying grease. The bar food her e is about as good as bar food gets, and that’s not bad. The chili and the bean soup ar e particularly recommended. $ p f e

TOAST ON MARKET 736 E. Market St., 569-4099. A historic theater building (long a landmark junque shop) lends a funky atmospher e to T oast, a local breakfast and lunch favorite. Chef Geor ge Morris’

THE CHICKEN HOUSE 7180 Hwy. 111, Sellersburg, IN., 246-9485. The parking lot of this white frame building in rural Indiana is packed on weekend nights as families from throughout the area wait on

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delectable fried chicken. This is the very hear t of American comfor t food, including gr een beans, dumplings, and mashed potatoes. $$ CHICKEN KING 639 E. Br oadway, 589-5464. Spicy, crunchy and sizzling hot fried chicken is the primary draw on a short, affordable menu. $ h COTTAGE CAFÉ 11609 Main St., Middletown, 2449497. This nostalgic old house in the countr yside offers a taste of Kentucky-style cookery in an array of lunch specials that range from homemade soups and sandwiches to the traditional Hot Br own. $ ✿ COTTAGE INN 570 Eastern Pkwy ., 637-4325. Now under new management by the Kreso family, Cottage Inn spor ts a bright new look, and it continues happily doling out the kind of excellent downhome food it has ser ved for more than 70 years. $ DINNER IS DONE 3830 Ruckriegel Pkwy., 267-8686. $ D’NALLEY’S 970 S. Thir d St., 588-2003. Dir t-cheap blue-plate specials and hear ty br eakfasts bring droves to the counters and booths of this classic greasy spoon. Satur day morning hours ar e sporadic, but for a quick plate of meat loaf, gr een beans, and mashed potatoes, D’Nalley’ s is a har d place to beat. $ FORK IN THE ROAD F AMILY RESTAURANT 4951 Cane Run Rd., 448-3903. $ FORTY ACRES AND A MULE REST AURANT 1800 Dixie Hwy., 776-5600. $ FRONTIER DINER 7299 Dixie Hwy., 271-3663. The name “diner” says it all, and this friendly neighborhood spot on Dixie Highway delivers just what you’d expect in down-home comfor t far e. The word on the str eet, though, is simple: Go for the pancakes. They’re worth a special trip. $ ✿ GENNY’S DINER 2223 Frankfor t A ve., 893-0923.

What’s the difference between Genny’s Diner and a saloon? You can take the kids to Genny’ s. Better still, you can get a darn good meal at Genny’ s, provided that you set your expectations for hear ty, filling and well-prepared diner food. $ p e GOLDEN CORRAL 4032 Taylorsville Rd., 485-0004, 8013 Pr eston Hwy ., 966-4970, 1402 Cedar St., Clarksville, IN. 258-2540. Buffet style family dining — one price, all you can eat. Steaks are served beginning at 4 p.m. $ GRANNY’S APRON 2605 Rockfor d Ln., 449-9026.

Everything at Granny’ s Apr on is homemade by owner Jan Bradley , and it tastes that way: Dinner here will r emind you of a trip back in time to Grandmother’s house, assuming that Grandmother was a really good cook. $ HAZELWOOD REST AURANT 4106 T aylor Blvd., 361-9104. Whether you like your eggs over easy, or your cheesebur gers well done, you’ll like the Hazelwood Restaurant. Standar d shor t or ders cooked with lots of character and a low price. $ HOMETOWN BUFFET 1700 Alliant Ave., 267-7044, 6641 Dixie Hwy., 995-3320. This chain ser ves up nostalgic dishes, casseroles, meats and desserts that allow you to set an all-American supper table with the all-you-can eat price tag. $ ✿ INDI’S RESTAURANT 1033 W. Broadway, 589-7985, 3820 W. Market St., 778-5154, 4901 Poplar Level Rd., 964-5749, 2901 Fern V alley Rd., 969-7993, 5009 S. Thir d St., 363-2535. Gr own fr om a tiny West End takeout spot to a mini-chain, Indi’s vends a variety of af fordable soul food and barbecue specialties to take out or eat in. $ h ✿ JESSIE’S FAMILY RESTAURANT 9609 Dixie Hwy ., 937-6332. Countr y cooking is Jessie’ s specialty , with hearty breakfast, lunch and dinner platters to fill the inner person. $ KINGS FAST FOOD 2101 W. Br oadway, 772-7138.

This tiny, colorful West End eater y, open for takeout only, offers a vast selection of filling, affordable

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entry in the dinner-theater sweepstakes … but the expansive buf fet dinner adds value to the mix. $$$$ e ✿

urban fare that ranges fr om hot-and-spicy chicken wings to rib tips and mor e. $ h KING’S FRIED CHICKEN 1302 Dixie Hwy., 776-3013. $ MR. LOU’S COUNTR Y COTT AGE REST AURANT 5408 V alley Station Rd., 933-0806. Biscuits and red-eye gravy, country ham and grits show of f Mr. Lou’s countr y cooking style. Roast chicken is a dinner favorite, and so are homemade pies. $ ✿ NINNY’S-N-NEW ALBANY 506 W. Main St., New Albany, IN, 941-1235. Home cooking like Mom used to make, assuming that Mom was an excellent cook. The Ninny Bur ger is a signatur e item, but you can settle down to a much mor e serious steak dinner for evening chow. $ O’DOLLYS 7800 Third St. Rd., 375-1690. Homestyle steam-table favorites ar e available fr om br eakfast through dinner, not to mention full bar service that makes O’Dollys a Southwest Louisville destination. $pfh✿ OUR BEST RESTAURANT 5404 Antle Dr., 969-6410, 2835 Holman Ln., Jef fersonville, IN, 288-8133.

The original Our Best, a fine family r estaurant in Henry County, is rapidly growing into a chain, with two properties in the big city now. $$ WAGNER’S PHARMACY 3113 S. Fourth St., 375-3800.

A track-side institution that has as much history as the nearby Twin Spires of Churchill Downs. Soups, sandwiches, shakes, cherry Cokes and an early bird “trainer’s” breakfast can be enjoyed all year r ound.

Racing history on the walls and ser vers who’ll call you “hon.” $ WEBB’S MARKET 944 E. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 5830318. An old-line neighborhood corner grocery store houses a delicious secr et: At the back you’ll find a steam table loaded with exceptional comfor t food.

Fried chicken is excellent, and don’t miss the chili. $

HOWL A T THE MOON Fourth Str eet Live, 5629400. What’ll they think of next? How about a nightclub that featur es a “dueling” piano bar with two pianos and a sing-along concept? Y ou’ll find this 4,000-square-foot club at Fourth Street Live on the ground level. $ p e h INCREDIBLE DAVE’S 9236 Westport Rd., 426-4790.

“Awesome dining, extr eme fun, wher e family fun hits maximum over drive” is the pr omise at this giant dining and enter tainment venue. It’s not just for kids: an upscale menu in a signatur e dining room is at the center of it all. $$ p h ✿ JOE HUBER FAMILY FARM & RESTAURANT 2421 Scottsville Rd., Starlight IN, 923-5255. A pleasant 20-minute drive from downtown Louisville, Huber’s has built a solid reputation for simple farm fare that’s well-made, fresh and good. Some of the pr oduce is grown on the premises in season. $$ p f e LUCKY STRIKE LANES Fourth Street Live, 560-1400.

An upscale bowling alley? Who knew! This concept from Jillian’s founders Stephen and Gillian Foster light up Four th Street Live with a stylish blend of ’50s-style retro and high-tech modern, plus a menu that serves much more than mere bar food. (Closed for remodeling until May.) $$ p f h ✿ MY OLD KENTUCKY DINNER TRAIN 602 N. Third St., Bardstown, KY, (502) 348-7300. T alk about a nostalgia trip: My Old Kentucky Dinner T rain offers a four-course meal during a two-hour voyage along scenic Kentucky railr oad tracks near Bardstown in vintage 1940s-era dining cars.

Reservations are strongly recommended. $$$$ p ✿ STAR CRUISES 151 W. Riverside Rd., Jeffersonville, IN, 218-1565. The Ohio River cruise is the best thing about this Love Boat-style yacht that makes nightly all-you-can-eat cruises up the river. $$$$ p f ✿

STUMLER RESTAURANT & ORCHARD 10924 St. John’s Rd., Starlight, IN, 923-3832. Fr esh produce is available in the big shed a few steps away , and that fresh produce shows up on the tables her e in mammoth por tions. Combine that with honest fried chicken, big ham steaks, r oast beef, and sandwiches, and you can’t go wrong. $$ f ✿

ALEXANDER’S PIZZERIA 1611 Charlestown-New Albany Rd., Jeffersonville, IN, 284-9000. $$ ANGILO’S PIZZA 1725 Berry Blvd., 368-1032. The local favorite is the steak hoagie, dripping with pizza sauce, pickles and onions. Angilo’s also offers a wide selection of hot pizza pies and cold beer . $✿ ANGIO’S REST AURANT 3731 Old Bar dstown Rd., 451-5454. This small Buechel eater y attracts a friendly neighborhood crowd with hefty subs and quality pizzas, along with cold beer. $ ✿ ANNIE’S PIZZA 2520 Portland Ave., 776-6400, 4007 Cane Run Rd., 449-4444. Annie’ s has made-toorder pizza and a variety of stacked sandwiches such as the Big Daddy Str om with beef, Italian sausage, onions and banana peppers. $ h ✿ ARNI’S PIZZA 1208 State St., New Albany , IN, 9451149, 3700 Paoli Pike, Floyds Knobs, IN, 9239805. A favorite Hoosier pizza and sandwich stop.

Insist on getting the Deluxe. $ ✿ BEARNO’S PIZZA (13 locations) What began as a simple, family-run pizzeria near Bowman Field has morphed into a local chain with, at last count, 15 locations. $ p ✿ BRUNO’S PIZZA 5170 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 944-5050. $$ BRUNO’S PIZZERIA & PUB 1919 S. Pr eston, 6341003. $$ p f h ✿

ANN’S BY THE RIVER 149 Spring St., Jeffersonville, IN., 284-2667. This bustling eatery is cafeteria style dining done well. They serve up the standard steam table meat-and-three menu items as good as any. W ith the Ohio River a block away , it’s aptly named. $ ✿ CRAVINGS A LA CAR TE 101 S. Fifth St. (National City Tower), 589-4230. This thrifty deli of fers a variety of build-your-own sandwiches, a soup-andsalad bar , and specialty bars featuring baked potatoes, and a monthly ethnic cr eation. $ ✿ HALL’S CAFETERIA 1301 Stor y A ve., 583-0437.

Hall’s Cafeteria has been doing a brisk business on the steam tables since 1955, attracting customers from Butchertown’s truck loading docks and fr om offices downtown. $ ✿ JANE’S CAFETERIA 4601 Jennings Ln., 454-7286. This 40-year-old family-owned restaurant knows how to cook for folks missing their home table. Count on an attentive staff and fresh southern fare. $ ✿ LANCASTER’S CAFETERIA 223 W. Fifth St., New Albany, IN, 949-2400. Troy Lancaster, the grandson of Southern Indiana catering king T ommy Lancaster, recalls the family’s culinary heritage with this family-friendly buffet-style cafeteria. $ f PICCADILLY CAFETERIA 2131 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 493-9900, 133 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy ., 4231733. An east end favorite for variety , Piccadilly offers r oast beef, fried chicken, cod, steak and shrimp dinners, a gardener’s list of vegetables and a few ethnic dishes for global measur e. $ ✿

DERBY DINNER PLA YHOUSE 525 Marriott Dr ., Clarksville, IN, 288-8281. The play’ s the thing at Derby Dinner Playhouse, Louisville’s long-running

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CALIFORNIA PIZZA KITCHEN 7900 Shelbyville Rd. (Oxmoor Center), 425-5125. California pizza became a trend when famous chefs gave this simple Italian fare a multi-ethnic spin with non-traditional Pacific Rim toppings. CPK successfully translates this trend for the mass market. $$ p f ✿ CHARLESTOWN PIZZA COMP ANY 850 Main St., Charlestown IN, 256-2699. This welcoming venue on Charlestown’s town square, a short trip upriver from Jef fersonville, is run by folks who learned their pizza and beer at New Albanian Br ewing Company. That’s a fine pedigr ee, and it shows in impressive quality. $$ ✿ CICI’S PIZZA 470 New Albany Plaza, New Albany , IN., 944-4942, 3093 Br eckinridge Ln., 452-6700.

Serious bar gain-hunters will find Cici’ s culinar y offer har d to beat. This Dallas-based chain ser ves up all the pizza you can eat for only $3.99. $ ✿ CLIFTON’S PIZZA 2230 Frankfor t A ve., 893-3730.

One of the originators of “Louisville style” of pizza, with additional toppings placed over the cheese. The venerable Clifton’s Pizza appeals with its adult style, full of the bold flavors of herbs and spices and available with gr own-up toppings like anchovies and artichoke hearts. $ f e h ✿ DANNY MAC’S P ASTA & PIZZA 1014 Clarks Ln., 635-7994. $ DOMINO’S PIZZA (20 locations) $$ ✿ FAT DADDY’S PIZZA 10611 W. Manslick Rd., 3637551. $ h ✿ FAT JIMMY’S 2712 Frankfor t A ve., 891-4555; 2208 Bardstown Rd., 479-1040; 13829 English V illa Dr., 244-0840; 528 S. Fifth St., 589-8559. This friendly neighborhood nook of fers a cold mug of beer and a hot slice of pizza, along with sub sandwiches, pasta dishes and salads. The L yndon spot lur es a friendly biker cr owd; the Cr escent Hill eatery r eflects its urban setting. $ ✿ FROLIO’S PIZZA 3799 Poplar Level Rd., 456-1000.

Just ar ound the corner fr om the Louisville Zoo, Frolio’s is a neighborhood pizzeria with a cozy, dim Italian-American mood and an all-you-can-eat pizza-and-salad lunch special. $$ f ✿ HOMETOWN PIZZA 11804 Shelbyville Rd., 2454555, La Grange Squar e Shopping Center , 2224444. Pasta dishes, hoagies, str omboli and cold beer ar e available, and so is the one-of-a-kind Bacon Cheeseburger pizza. $$ h ✿ IROQUOIS PIZZA 6614 Manslick Rd., 363-3211. $$ ✿ J TRAIN PIZZA & PUB 201 Spring St., Jef fersonville, IN, 283-3663. Owner Joel Stinnett of fers New York style pizza in this eater y named for the New Y ork subway line he rode when he lived in the Big Apple. $$ f e h ✿ JOCKAMO’S PIZZA PUB 983 Goss A ve., 637-5406.

Old-timers ar e delighted to see Jockamo’ s Pizza Pub back in business in Germantown, more than a decade after it depar ted Bardstown Road. Some of the original owners (except the late Dave W ilder) have r ecreated the style, the mood and the live music, of the original. $$ e ✿ JOHNNY V’S 10509 Watterson Trail, 267-0900. $$ p f LITTLE CAESAR’S PIZZA 816 Kenwood Dr ., 3665599, 9017 Galene Dr ., 267-8600, 5622 Pr eston Hwy. 966-5800, 6714 Outer Loop, 966-3111, 12418 LaGrange Rd., 241-5445. This Detroit-based pizzeria chain lost market shar e in the ’90s, but business analysts say the company known for its two-for-one “pizza pizza” deal has turned things around with a renewed commitment to quality and service. $$ h ✿ LOUISVILLE PIZZA CO. 3910 Ruckriegel Pkwy ., 267-1188. Also known as Chubby Ray’ s, this local pizzeria makes good, fr esh pizzas and ItalianAmerican sandwiches. $ p f h ✿ 70 Winter 2009 www.foodanddine.com

LUIGI’S 712 W. Main St., 589-0005. If you think one pizza is pretty much like another, you may not have sampled New Y ork City-style pizza, a tr eat that you’ll find on just about ever y str eet corner ther e, but only Luigi’s offers in its authentic form here. $ ✿ MA ZERELLAS 949 S. Indiana A ve., Sellersburg, IN, 246-9517. Pleasant family-run-for -family-fun establishments. Pizza, pasta, salads and subs served for lunch and dinner seven days a week. $ ✿ MR. GATTI’S 5600 S. Third St., 363-2211, 8594 Dixie Hwy., 935-0100, 3319 Bar dstown Rd., 451-0540, 1108 Lyndon Ln., 339-8338, 2247 S. Pr eston St., 635-6708, 4200 Outer Loop, 964-0920. This Austin-based chain was one of the first national pizzerias to r each Louisville in the 1970s, and quality ingredients — plus Gattiland playgr ounds for the kids — have made its crisp, thin-crust pizzas a popular draw for nearly 30 years. $$ ✿ NEW ALBANIAN BREWING CO. 3312 Plaza Dr ., New Albany, IN, 944-2577. Touting “the best pizza in southern Indiana” is quite a boast, but pizza only tells half of this tasty story: NABC combines the fine pies of Spor tstime Pizza with the pub formerly known as Rich O’ s, Publican Roger Baylor’s remarkable beer list, with mor e than 100 selections fr om ar ound the world — plus locally brewed craft beers — has won international awards.

A pizza like the famous “Herbivore” (spinach, sliced tomatoes and roasted garlic) makes a sizzling treat, with a world-class beer to wash it down. $ OLD CHICAGO P ASTA & PIZZA 9010 Taylorsville Rd., 301-7700. This gr owing chain specializes in both thick Chicago-style and thin traditional pizza, plus an imposing list of 110 beers from around the world. $$ p f h ✿ ORIGINAL IMPELLIZZERI’S 1381 Bar dstown Rd., 454-2711, 4933 Br ownsboro Rd. Impellizzeri’ s pizza, a Louisville icon known and loved for its massive pies for a generation, has r eturned to the Highlands! Benny Impellizzeri’ s latest ventur e is already attracting happy cr owds to the quar ters vacated by Alameda. $$$ p f h ✿ PA PA MURPHY’S PIZZA 291 N. Hubbards Ln., 8956363, 5016 Mudd Ln., 962-7272, 9501 Taylorsville Rd., 266-7000, 161 Outer Loop, 361-3444; 4607 Outer Loop, 964-7272; 12535 Shelbyville Rd., 2539191, 6756 Bar dstown Rd., 239-8282, 1305 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 280-7272. $$ ✿ PAPA JOHN’S PIZZA (30 locations) “Papa” John Schnatter got into the pizza game as a Southern Indiana high-school student in 1984 and has built his business into a 3,000-r estaurant international chain on the basis of a simple formula: traditional pizza, made fr om quality ingr edients in a straightforward style. $$ ✿ PIZZA BY THE GUY 814 Lyndon Ln., 426-4044. This locally owned franchise, now in lar ger quar ters, wins its fans’ praise for extra spicy sauce and handtossed dough. $ h ✿ PIZZA HUT (15 locations) $$ ✿ PIZZA KING 3825 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 945-4405, 1066 Kehoe Ln., Jeffersonville, IN., 2828286. The pizza at Pizza King is baked in a stur dy, clay stone oven and hand-tossed with thinner crust where the ingredients go all the way to the edge. $$

its pizzas are made with fresh ingredients (including an unusual cinnamon-apple pizza “pie”); and the chicken wings are impressive. $$ h ✿ SPINELLI’S PIZZERIA 614 Baxter A ve., 568-5665.

This tiny stor efront in the city’ s nightclub zone offers a tasty option for the wide-eyed-late-at-night crowd seeking good cheap eats; it’s open until 5 am nightly fr om Wednesday thr ough Satur day. Better yet, it gives Louisville an authentic taste of Philadelphia specialties: Philly-style pizza and r eal Philly cheese steaks. $ f h ✿ TONI’S MORE THAN PIZZA 3213 Pr eston Hwy ., 634-5400. Friendly ser vice and sizzling pies make this neighbor hood pizzeria a favorite under any name. $$ ✿ TONY BOOMBOZZ 3334 Frankfort Ave., 896-9090, 1448 Bardstown Rd., 458-8889, 12613 Taylorsville Rd., 261-0222. Boombozz wins praise for exceptionally high quality pizza and other quick Italianstyle far e. T ony’s pizzas include both traditional pies and gourmet-style specialties that have won awards in national competition. $$ h ✿ TONY BOOMBOZZ PIZZA & VINO 2813 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy ., 394-0000. Flagship of the Boombozz flotilla, this East End establishment takes the local mini-chain’s winning pizza concept to a higher level. The “fast casual” facility features the awar d-winning Boombozz pizzas and paninis available at its other mostly takeout shops, but presents it for dining in a striking “urban loft” tangerine and jade setting with Italian-made furniture to add an upscale accent, plus wellchosen wine and beer lists. $$ p h ✿ TONY IMPELLIZZERI’S 108 V ieux Carr e Dr., 4290606. The original Impellizzeri’s Pizza is gone from the Highlands, but this decade-old strip-center storefront near Hurstbourne houses br other Tony’s venture. If you like the massive, heavily loaded Impellizzeri pizza style, it’s a treat not to be missed. $$$$ ✿ TUBBY’S PIZZA 103 Quar termaster Cr t., Jeffersonville IN, 288-8870. Jef fersonville’s venerable quadrangle — it dates back to the Civil W ar — is the per fect setting for settling back over a pitcher of beer, a Hoosier-style pizza (sliced in squar es) and catching a game on one of the wall-mounted flat-screen TVs. $$ h VARSITY PIZZA & PINTS 6825 Central A ve., Crestwood, KY, 243-1101. $$ p f h ✿ WICKS PIZZA PARLOR 975 Baxter Ave., 458-1828, 2927 Goose Cr eek Rd., 327-9425, 12717 Shelbyville Rd., 213-9425, 10966 Dixie Hwy., 9954333. W ick’s wins popularity with a welcoming mix of good pizza, a quality beer list and a friendly neighborhood feel at all thr ee of its eateries. The pies ar e straightfor ward, made with ample toppings. “The Big Wick” is a favorite. $ p h ✿ WINDY CITY PIZZERIA 2622 S. Fourth St., 636-3708.

Stuffed Chicago-style and crispy thin-crust pizzas offer whichever option a pizza lover desir es. $$ WINGS TO GO 4324 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 941-9464. $ h ✿ ZA’S PIZZA 1573 Bardstown Rd., 454-4544. $$

p✿

PIZZA PLACE 2931 Richland Ave., 458-9700. $ h ✿ SICILIAN PIZZA & P ASTA 631 S. Four th St., 5898686. Ready for takeout or eat-in, this downtown storefront offers good, standard (not Sicilian) pizza and other familiar Italian-American dishes. $ h SIR DANO’S PIZZA P ARLOR 469 N. Indiana A ve., Sellersburg IN, 246-3346. $ f ✿ SNAPPY TOMATO 4005 Shelbyville Rd., 895-7511, 10000 Brownsboro Rd., 412-6205, 13206 W. Hwy. 42, 228-9990. A Midwestern pizza-deliver y chain based in Nor thern Kentucky, Snappy Tomato says RED = ADVERTISER

AMAZING GRACE WHOLE FOODS DELI 1133 Bardstown Rd., 485-1122. If you think “vegan” means only raw carr ots, bean spr outs, seeds and roots, think again. No animals wer e harmed in the making of the tasty alternative sandwiches and other dishes at this neat little deli attached to a spiffy local organic-foods grocery. $ ✿ ANOTHER PLACE SANDWICH SHOP 119 S. Seventh St., 589-4115. If you want to buy a car , go to a car dealer . To buy a carpet, patr onize a carpet

p = FULL BAR

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At lunchtime lines form for sandwiches — subs, panini, wraps, hot melts and cold cuts. $ ✿

shop. And if you’ve got a sandwich on your to-do list, it makes sense to go to a sandwich shop. $ ✿ BACKYARD BURGER 1800 Priority Way, 240-9945, 11201 Oscar Rd., 339-2908. The open flame at these counter-service diners pr ovide the next best thing to a family cookout. Sandwiches, fr esh salads, fruit cobblers and old-fashioned hand-dipped milkshakes enhance the nostalgic theme. $ ✿ BANK SHOT BILLIARDS 403 E. Market St., 5878260. $ h BLIMPIE’S SUBS & SALADS 2020 Brownsboro Rd., 899-7960. Sublime subs — fast and fresh. Blimpie’s is all that … and a bag of chips. $ ✿ BROWN BAG PUB & DELI 2100 S. Preston St., 6356747. This simple little neighborhood spot near the University of Louisville may not be much for atmosphere, but well-fashioned if simple diner fare vaults it into the r ealm of serious destinations for hard-core “foodies,” with extra cr edit for friendly, welcoming service. $ p f h ✿ BUTCHER’S BEST MEA TS & DELI 9521 US Hwy. 42., 365-4650. This fully staf fed meat stor e in Prospect offers custom-cut beef, lamb, pork, bison, chicken and veal, plus a well-stocked deli and specialty foods, with skilled butcher Jimmy Mike at the helm. $ f CAFÉ P ALACIO 4010 Dupont Cir cle, 708-1818.

Serving lunch to workers in the Dupont ar ea five days a week. $ ✿ CALISTOGA AR TISAN SANDWICHES 4000 Dutchmans Ln., 895-3779, 401 E. Chestnut St., 561-9092. “Papa” John Schnatter , founder of the worldwide pizza chain that bears his name, is taking another shot at the fast-food world with the more upscale Calistoga Ar tisan Sandwiches that some have likened to Panera Br ead. $ f ✿ CAT BOX DELI 500 W. Jefferson St., 561-6259. The name of this cozy downtown deli in the PNC Bank building might warrant a double-take, but its feline theme and kitty car toons earn a smile. Open for breakfast and lunch, it of fers a good selection of sandwiches, panini and wraps at budget prices. $ ✿ THE CHICAGO GYROS 2317 Brownsboro Rd., 8953270. $ f e ✿ DANISH EXPRESS PASTRIES 102 1/2 Cannons Ln., 895-2863. Just a few tables turn this takeout nook into a sit-in breakfast and lunch spot for a handful of diners at a time. Full breakfasts and light lunches are available, but as the name implies, Danish pastries are the specialty, and they’re fine. $ ✿ DERBY CITY DOGS 960 Baxter Ave., 561-2880. This walk-up hot-dog stor efront ser ves Nathan’s brand all beef hot dogs with gourmet style toppings, bratwurst, corn dogs, veggie dogs, side dishes, ice cream and smoothies — they’ll even give your r eal doggie a tr eat if she’ s along with you. Catering to the nightclub cr owd, it’s open until 5 a.m. on the weekends. $ f h ✿ DEVINO’S 104 W. Main St., 569-3939. This stylish deli of fers another lunch and dinner option downtown. Sandwiches ar e made fr om quality Boar’s Head meats and cheeses cut on the premises, with dining inside and on the patio; package beer and wine is also available. $ f DINO’S DOWN TO LUNCH CAFÉ 239 S Fifth St. (Kentucky Home Life Building) 585-2874. $ ✿ DIZZY WHIZZ DRIVE-IN 217 W. St. Catherine St., 5833828. This neighborhood eatery is an institution. It goes back mor e than 50 years and hasn’ t changed much. It opens early and stays open late and of fers good value for what you’d expect. $ f DOOLEY’S BAGELCA TESSEN 980 Br eckenridge Ln., 893-3354, 2415 Lime Kiln Ln., 426-3354.

This convenient deli specializes in bagels, as the name implies. Br eakfast means fr esh bagels with an array of cream cheese, sausage, eggs and coffee.

h = LATE NIGHT

EINSTEIN BROTHERS BAGELS 320 W. Jef ferson St., (Hyatt Regency) 217-6046. Nothing beats a bagel and a schmear of cr eam cheese — unless it’s a bagel, a schmear , and a gener ous slab of lox. For those who don’ t live on bagels, a good selection of soups, salads and sandwiches offer quick sustenance at this branch of the national chain. $ f ✿ THE FEED BAG DELI 133 Br eckenridge Ln., 8961899. The grilled salmon bur ger is worth the visit, as well as the Triple Crown wrap with thr ee meats or a fr esh veggie wrap. Soups, desser ts top of f the lunch-only schedule. $ ✿ FRASCELLI’S NEW YORK DELI & PIZZERIA 6010 Crestwood Station, 243-9005. This Oldham County shop offers Italian-style deli sandwiches and pizza, plus home-style Italian hot dishes fr om lasagna to baked ziti. $ p h ✿ GREAT LIFE CAFÉ 9565 Taylorsville Rd., 297-8807, 9463 W estport Rd., 420-0707, 951 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 284-5624. This small but growing local chain, founded in 2006 by Steve and Jill Mazzoni and their friend Jason McCune, specializes in health and nutrition supplements and vitamins. $ ✿ HEAVENLY HAM 3602 Nor thgate Cr t, New Albany , IN, 941-9426. This franchise location of the “spiralsliced, honey-spice glazed” ham-to-go chain of fers sandwiches of the trademark pr oduct. There’s also smoked turkey, as well as box lunches, ham and smoked turkey by the pound or in bulk. $ HONEYBAKED CAFÉ 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 8956001, 6423 Bardstown Rd., 239-9292. $ JASON’S DELI 410 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 412-4101.

Don’t look for a New Y ork kosher-style deli at this Texas-based chain, but suburbanites ar e lining up at its Hurstbourne location for oversize sandwiches, salads, wraps and more. $ f ✿ JERSEY MIKE’S SUBS AND SALADS 10266 Shelbyville Rd., 244-1991, 10519 Fischer Park Dr., 425-1025, 9156 T aylorsville Rd., 499-9830.

East Coast-style sub shop with local faves that includes cheese, ham, pr osciuttini, capicola, salami, pepperoni and fixings. $ ✿ JIMMY JOHN’S SUB SHOP 967 Baxter Ave., 587-0550, 4000 Shelbyville Rd., 894-3331, 3901 Dutchmans Ln., 894-9393,415 W. Jefferson St., 625-7101, 1321 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 425-4515. This Illinois-based sandwich-shop chain of fers a wide selection of standard-issue subs that benefit fr om fresh quality ingredients. W e’re par ticularly smitten with the alternative br ead option, thick-sliced seven-grain or wrapped with lettuce. T ry the “Gourmet Veggie Club” for a vegetarian treat. $ f h ✿ JUANITA’S BURGER BOY 1450 S. Br ook, 635-7410.

For a r eal slice of Louisville life, this weather ed greasy spoon at the corner of Br ook and Burnett is the real thing. Neighborhood denizens drink coffee and chow down on bur gers and breakfast until the wee hours (the joint is open 24 hours). If Louisville is home to a budding Charles Bukowski, ther e’s a good chance he’ s sitting at Juanita’ s counter right now, recovering from last night’s excesses. $ h JUST FRESH BAKER Y CAFÉ & MARKET 1255 Bardstown Rd., 451-2324. A national chain of fers fast-food fare billed as healthy and natural. $$f ✿ KC’S CHICAGO HOT DOG STAND 1770 Bardstown Rd., 454-9727. Walk up to this small stand and load up a V ienna All Beef hotdog “Chicago style” with mustard, ketchup, onions, cucumbers, tomatoes, salt, pepper and neon-green relish. There’s also corn dogs, and Hawaiian shave ice. No indoor dining, but some seats out front. $ f ✿ LIL’ LOAFERS BAKER Y 8522 Pr eston Hwy ., 9693990. For years, hair dresser Sheryl Lukenbill used to bake banana br eads and other tr eats as gifts for

✿ = VEGETARIAN MENU ITEMS

= MENU AVAILABLE ON-LINE ONLY

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her customers. Her goodies wer e so popular that now Sheryl and her husband Paul have gone fulltime with Lil’ Loafers Bakery. $ ✿ LITTLE CHEF 147 E. Market St., New Albany , IN, 949-7567. Ever y city needs a postage-stamp-sized spot that knows how to fry potatoes and grill up a burger. In New Albany , the place is Little Chef.

Biscuits and gravy , fried eggs, and bur gers, in a joint that seems like a thr owback to the hear tland of America, circa 1940. $ f h ✿ LONNIE’S BEST T ASTE OF CHICAGO 121 St. Matthews Ave., 895-2380, 1034 Bardstown Rd., 4512965. This appetizing operation offers genuine Chicago hot dogs and a taste of Chicago atmosphere for a price that won’t hurt your wallet. Make Lonnie’s the place to go when you’ve got a hankering for Windy City fare. $ LOTSA PASTA 3717 Lexington Rd., 896-6361. Lotsa Pasta originated as an Italian specialty-food stor e, and it has been a local favorite for mor e than 20 years. It now of fers deli meats and cheeses and an eclectic international selection of sausages and cheese. A large sit-down section offers a comfortable place to enjoy cof fee, pastry and sandwiches made to order in the deli. $ ✿ LUNCH TODAY 590 Missouri Ave., Jeffersonville, IN, 282-1005. This outfit pr epares its shar e of the soups, salads and sandwiches that the downtown workforce needs to re-energize. $ f MAIN EA TERY 643 W. Main St., 589-3354. Smack dab in the middle of the Main Str eet historic district, this fashionable deli lur es the savvy business midday crowd. $ f ✿ MCALISTER’S DELI 10041 Forest Green Blvd., 4258900, 2721 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 671-2424, 2400 Lime Kiln Ln., 339-8544, 6510 Bar dstown Rd., 239-9997, 12911 Shelbyville Rd., 244-5133, 1305 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 282-3354. Emphasizing quality customer ser vice, this delicatessen ladles up such soups as gumbo and chicken tortilla along with cutting boar d favorites. They have a special way with a tumbler of sweet iced tea and lemon. $ ✿ MORRIS DELI & CATERING 2228 Taylorsville Rd., 458-1668, 555 S. Second St. (YMCA building), 587-2353. Many locals still know this small, popular Highlands deli as Kar em Deeb’s after its longtime previous owner. Mostly for takeout — it packs in a few cr owded tables — it’ s known for high-quality, hand-made deli far e. A second location is now open in the YMCA downtown. $ ✿ NANCY’S BAGEL BOX 651 S. Fourth St., 589-4004.

An outpost of Nancy’ s Bagel Gr ounds in Clifton, this new outlet in the new downtown Gourmet Market (the old Kentucky Theater building in Theater Squar e) of fers a similar mix of light far e and Nancy’s unique take on the bagel. $ ✿ NANCY’S BAGEL GROUNDS 2101 Frankfor t Ave., 895-8323. A friendly and casual neighbor hood gathering spot. Of ferings include soups, snacks, coffee drinks and bagels made on the pr emises to its own rather idiosyncratic formula. $ f ✿ OLLIE’S TROLLEY 978 S. Thir d St., 583-5214. A little piece of fast-food history remains on an urban street corner in Old Louisville. It’ s one of the nation’s few sur viving tr olleys of the Louisvillebased chain that spr ead acr oss the nation in the ’70s. Oversize bur gers with a spicy , homemade flavor are just as good as ever. $ ORDERS UP CAFÉ & DELI 1981 Nelson Miller Pkwy., 245-5991. Quick and casual, Or ders Up of fers the inviting atmospher e of dr opping in to someone’ s home for lunch. Soups salads and fr eshly made sandwiches ar e uniformly appetizing, and sandwiches are affordably priced at $5 or less. $ ✿ PANERA BREAD CO. 5000 Shelbyville Rd., 8999992, 6221 Dutchmans Ln., 895-9991, 601 S. 72 Winter 2009 www.foodanddine.com

Hurstbourne Ln., 423-7343, 10451 Champion Farms Dr., 426-2134, 3131 Poplar Level Rd., 6359164, 1040 V eterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 2889400, 400 W. Market St., 540-5250. W arm breads finish-baked on the premises make a tasty base for a variety of sandwiches. Soups, salads, cof fee drinks and a fr ee W iFi hotspot make Panera’ s outlets popular gathering places. $ f ✿ PAUL’S FRUIT MARKET 3922 Chenoweth Sq., 8968918, 4946 Br ownsboro Rd., 426-5059, 12119 Shelbyville Rd., 253-0072, 3704 T aylorsville Rd., 456-4750. One of Louisville’ s popular sour ces for produce, cheeses, deli items, and the like. Deli sandwiches and salads are available (takeout only). $✿ PENN ST ATION (16 Locations). Billed as the East Coast Sub Headquarters, this sandwich kitchen does a brisk business here in the Louisville area. $ ✿ QUIZNO’S SUBS (16 locations) Toasted breads, a sandwich selection of meats, veggies and fish are built to fight hunger. Fresh soups ar e available daily, from chili to chowder; so are salads and desserts. $ ✿ SAMMI JO’S SANDWICHES & MORE Shelby St., 365-1809. $

1496 S.

SCHLOTZSKY’S DELI 10531 Fischer Park Dr ., 4258447, 12915 Shelbyville Rd., 244-9069. The original Schlotzsky’s of fered just one kind of sandwich — “The Original” — when it opened its first eatery in Austin, Texas, in 1971. Now this national chain vends a full selection of deli-style far e, with one significant improvement on the traditional deli: the servers are invariably polite. $ f ✿

BOOTLEG BARBECUE COMPANY 9704 Bardstown Rd., 239-2722, 7508 Pr eston Hwy ., 968-5657.

Bootleg Barbecue of fers a touch of rusticity and a good helping of country hospitality, as it dishes out hearty por tions of well-pr epared and af fordable smoked meats and fixin’s. It’s one of the few places in Louisville where you can get Western Kentuckystyle mutton barbecue. $ f BRANDON’S BAR-B-QUE 9901 LaGrange Rd., 4266666. Featuring hickor y-smoked T ennessee-style barbecue sandwiches and filling, af fordable dinners. $ BRUCE’S SMOKEHOUSE & BALLP ARK GRILL 3065 Breckenridge Ln., 459-5201. $$ CLARK BOY BAR-B-Q 6728 Johnsontown Rd., 9335577. If it’ s a little of f the beaten path, ther e’s nothing the matter with that. Clark Boy’ s r easonably priced W estern Kentucky-style barbecue is well worth a special trip. Like many mom ’n’ pop eateries, it accepts cash only, no plastic. $ DEM BONES BBQ 1703 Charlestown-New Albany Rd., Jeffersonville, IN, 282-2277. Ribs, brisket and pulled pork dominate the menu at this diminutive family-operated smokehouse. The sauce has a sweet tang, the baked beans a rich, long-simmer ed flavor, and though tables ar e few , ever ything is available to go — in any quantity desir ed. $

SHADY LANE CAFÉ 4806 Brownsboro Center, 8935118. Another attractive East End stor efront, Shady Lane Café, has been earning good r eviews for simple br eakfast and lunch far e ser ved in friendly surroundings. $ ✿

FAMOUS DA VE’S BAR-B-QUE 8605 Citadel W ay, 493-2812, 1360 V eterans Pkwy ., Clarksville, IN, 282-3283. This franchise chain operation may be based in the twin cities, but it looks like a Geor gia gas station with its exuberant, if tongue-in-cheek faux country decor. The impor tant thing, though, is the food, and Dave’ s excels with genuine, hickory-smoked barbecue. $$ p f

SOUPY’S 3019 Br eckenridge Ln., 451-5325. In the soup kettles you will find such classics as cheesy potato, bean and ham, br occoli and cheese, chicken and dumplings and mor e. At the cutting board they’ll make your meat, cheese and veggie sandwiches according to your custom design. $ ✿

FINLEY’S HICKOR Y SMOKED BAR-B-Q 1500 W. Broadway, 581-0298. Rib tips ar e the specialty but you’ll find turkey legs, ham, half-chickens, pork chops and shr edded beef and pork — all for dinners or sandwiches, and barbecued pig’s feet for the BBQ purists. $ f

THE STARVING ARTIST CAFÉ & DELI 8034 New Lagrange Rd., 412-1599. $ ✿

FIRE FRESH BBQ 6435 Bar dstown Rd., 239-7800, 211 S. Fifth St., 540-1171, 8610 Dixie Hwy ., 9957585. Fir e fighters, it is said, eat hear tily and well. It’ s no coincidence, then, that Fir eFresh Bar B Q pays homage to local fire departments in its restaurant’s decor. The barbecue and country fixin’s stand comparison to the best fir ehouse cuisine. $ f

STEVENS & STEVENS 1114 Bar dstown Rd., 5843354. Sharing space with the popular Ditto’ s, Stevens & Stevens is primarily known for catering and takeout far e. They cook just as well if you choose to stay in, though, of fering appealing sandwiches and deli fare with a healthy twist. $ ✿ SUB ST ATION II 3101 Fern V alley Rd., 964-1075.

The har dy No. 19, a six-meat-and-cheese super sub, keeps the stor e buzzing. An array of sandwiches, salad sides and desser ts fill out an appetizing lunch menu. $ ✿ THE BODEGA 829 E. Market St., 569-4100. At the back of the Felice Plaza east of downtown, the Bodega combines a small specialty-food market, wine-and-beer shop and deli under one compact roof. They’ll build your lunch to dine in or enjoy on their sunny patio. $ f ✿ THORNBERRY’S DELI & PIES 367-8394. $

5103 S. Thir d St.,

W.W. COUSINS REST AURANT 900 Dupont Rd., 897-9684. This locally owned and operated eater y looks a lot like the national Fuddruckers chain, but the local boys do a better job, with huge burgers on magisterial home-baked buns and a Metr opolitan Museum of toppings. $ ✿ WALL ST. DELI 225 Abraham Flexner W ay (Jewish Hospital) 585-4202. Of fering New York style with Kentucky flair, this busy downtown deli will ser ve in-house diners or take or ders for deliveries.

Authentic Nathan’s Hot Dogs are a specialty. $ ✿ RED = ADVERTISER

JIMBO’S BBQ 801 Kenwood Dr ., 375-1888. This South End barbecue shack, an outpost of a popular spot in Corydon, IN, offers a fine range of barbecue meats skillfully smoked on the pr emises, with sauce served on the side as it should be. $ JUCY’S SMOKEHOUSE BAR-B-QUE 7626 New Lagrange Rd., 241-5829. Jucy’s offers exceptionally good T exas-style barbecue fr om a little wooden shack that looks just like a countr y BBQ joint should. Highly recommended. $$ f KENTUCKY BBQ CO. 1800 Frankfor t A ve., 8953419. Actual brothers — Dave and Greg Kastan — offer first-rate ribs and smoked meats in this older Clifton venue. Theme dinners once a month explore the wider world of the barbecue tradition. $$ p f MARK’S FEED STORE 11422 Shelbyville Rd., 2440140, 1514 Bardstown Rd., 458-1570, 10316 Dixie Hwy., 933-7707, 3827 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 285-1998. Named for its first r estaurant’s location in a former feed stor e with that down-home countr y feel, Mark’ s impr esses with high-quality hickor y-smoked pork and chicken, and rich, silken South Carolina barbecue sauce, the yellow mustard-based variety. $$ f

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637-3737, 105 LaFollette, 923-1316, 1450 Veterans Pkwy., Jeffersonville, IN, 285-9464. If you think your basic sports pub is only suitable for guys guzzling beer, take another look: Beef O’Brady’ s puts the “family” in “family spor ts pub,” of fering a wholesome environment. $ h

OLE HICKORY PIT BAR-B-QUE 6106 Shepherdsville Rd., 968-0585. Located in an attractive house not far fr om General Electric’ s Appliance Park, this Louisville r elative of a famous W estern Kentucky barbecue pit is well worth the trip. $ f PICNICATERS BBQ & CATERING 514 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 584-7427. Located across from Louisville Gardens, grills outdoors year ‘r ound, placing hot sauce, wings and chops right in the middle of a hungry business district. $ f

BENTLEY’S SPORTS BAR & GRILLE 2800 Crums Ln., 778-8886. The familiar range of bar and grill fare and libations will make the neighbors feel at home in this new West End watering hole. $ p

PIG CITY BBQ 12003 Shelbyville Rd., 244-3535.

Down-home and honest, the name of this popular Middletown barbecue eater y pr etty much says it all. Smoke ’em if you’ve got ’em — and they do — with all cherry wood. $$ f

BIG AL’S BEERITAVILLE 1715 Mellwood Ave., 8934487. Good people, good food, cold beer: The sign out fr ont says it all, and we might add “cool atmosphere” in praise of this small but friendly Butchertown oasis. $ p f e

PIT STOP BAR-B-QUE 13303 Magisterial Dr ., 2536740. This familiar old local brand, long a downtown fixtur e, now of fers its smoky T exas barbecue in an East End industrial park just off the Gene Snyder Freeway and Old Henry Road. $

BLUE MULE SPORTS CAFÉ 10301 Taylorsville Rd., 240-0051. Longtime buddies John O’Connor and Jim “Mule” Riley talked for years about opening a restaurant and spor ts bar . Riley died befor e their dream came true. But now O’Connor pr oudly presides over this 90-seat casual Jef fersontown eatery and watering hole, and he has named it in affectionate memory of his friend “Mule.” $ p e

RITE WAY BAR-B-CUE HOUSE 1548 W. St. Catherine St., 584-9385. Open since 1943, this W est End landmark in a one-time neighbor hood gr ocery, offers exceptional urban barbecue, including ribs that rank with the city’s best. $ f h RITE WAY BAR-B-CUE HOUSE 300 W. Chestnut St., 922-3156, Barbecue meister Kalvin Br own, who presided over the smokers at the W est End RiteWay for many years, now brings his skills to a downtown establishment with similar far e but no business connection to the original. $ p e h RUBBIE’S BAR-B-QUE & BREW 6905 Southside Dr., 367-0007. This South End family knows how to do BBQ. It may be of f the beaten path for some folks but here you’ll find the bounty of secr et BBQ recipes. $ p f e h SCOTTY’S RIBS AND MORE 14049 Shelbyville Rd., 244-6868. Ribs, pork, chicken a la car te and dinners. The small East End venue moves a lot of pizzas and salads as well. $$ p SHACK IN THE BACK BBQ 406 Mt. Holly Rd., 3633227. $ f e SHANE’S RIB SHACK 12420 Lime Kiln Ln., 4293907. “Rib” may be its middle name, but you can also fill up on wings, chicken tenders, sandwiches and more at this growing Atlanta-based chain, now open in this former Tijuana Flats facility. $$ f h SMOKETOWN USA 1153 Logan St., 409-9180. The name “Smoketown” does double-duty at this T exMex storefront just east of Old Louisville in the the Smoketown neighbor hood. Ribs ar e juicy and smoky; the pinto beans and the Blue Bunny ice cream from Texas are not to be missed. $ f ✿ SMOKEY BONES BBQ 2525 Hurstbourne Gem Ln., 491-7570. A pr operty of Orlando’ s Dar den fastfood chain, which also runs Olive Gar den and Red Lobster, this noisy Stony Brook-area eatery conveys more of a spor ts-bar than barbecue concept, but the ribs are fine. $$ p TONY ROMA ’S 150 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy ., 3278500. From the tomato tang to a smoky Blue Ridge savor, Roma’s advertises its ribs as the best dr essed in town. Bur gers, chicken and steaks ar e available as well, but we r ecommend the racks and baby backs of pork and beef. $$$ p VINCE STATEN’S OLD TIME BARBEQUE 13306 W. U.S. 42, 228-7427. Author Vince Staten, who literally wrote the book on barbecue (Real Barbecue), has moved on, but his name remains on this neighborhood joint out the road in Oldham County. $

BEEF O’BRADY’S 239 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 2542322, 5628 Bar dstown Rd., 239-2226, 10000 Brownsboro Rd., 327-5496, 3101 S. Second St.,

h = LATE NIGHT

BROWNIE’S “THE SHED” GRILLE & BAR 237 Whittington Pkwy ., 326-9830. Restaurant owner and namesake Keith Br own used to host neighborhood gatherings in a shed at his home. Now he brings the same sociable concept to his pub and eatery. Br ownie’s may be the closest thing Hurstbourne has to a Germantown neighbor hood saloon. $ p h BUFFALO WILD WINGS (BW -3’S) 6801 Dixie Hwy., 935-1997, 3900 Shelbyville Rd., 899-7732, 9134 Taylorsville Rd., 499-2356, 3584 Springhurst Blvd., 394-9596, 12901 Shelbyville Rd., 254-9464, 1055 Bar dstown Rd., 454-3635, 1112 V eteran’s Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 283-9464. As much a sports bar as a r estaurant, this national franchise chain offers tasty snack-type far e, including the chain’ s trademark Buffalo chicken wings. $$ p f h BUFFALO WINGS & RINGS 2610 Chamberlain Ln., 243-4464, 6501 Bardstown Rd., 239-0029. $ p f h CHAMPIONS SPOR TS REST AURANT 280 W .

Jefferson St. (Louisville Marriott), 671-4246.

Another popular option at the striking new downtown Marriott, Champions pr ovides a fun, casual dining alternative with a Kentucky sports theme — and a galler y of big-scr een televisions to keep the sports action flowing as fr eely as the libations and upscale pub grub. $$ p f h CHATTER’S BAR & GRILL 2745 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 961-9700. $$ p f ✿ CONNOR’S PLACE 132 E. Market St., New Albany , IN, 590-3377. Hoosier Restaurateur Dave Himmel has moved Connor’ s Place to a new location, retaining the casually upscale mood and food that he made a trademark in the original venue. $ p f e h DANNY BOY’S 1101 S. Clark Blvd., Clarksville IN, 283-3566. $ p e h DELTA RESTAURANT 434 W. Market St., 584-0860.

It’s not quite as historic as Gideon Shr yock’s Jefferson County Cour thouse ar ound the corner , but this popular bar and shor t-order spot seems as if it has been a hangout for lawyers and the courthouse crowd for just about as long as ther e’s been a Courthouse. $ p ✿ DIAMOND PUB & BILLIARDS 3814 Frankfort Ave., 895-7513. $ p f h ✿ FLABBY’S SCHNITZELBURG 1101 L ydia St., 6379136. Family-owned since 1952, Flabby’ s is a quintessential Germantown saloon. It’s also one of the city’s top destinations for inexpensive downhome eats, fr om authentic German dishes to fantastic fried chicken on weekends. $ ✿ FLANAGAN’S ALE HOUSE 934 Baxter A ve., 5853700. Gourmet pizzas, hoagies, and an enormous

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beer selection draw Highlands folks to this cozy neighborhood pub. For a late night pizza (the kitchen’s open until 2 a.m.), it’ s one of the best options in the city. $$ p f h FOUR KINGS CAFÉ 4642 Jennings Ln., 968-2930.

Steam-table ser vice featuring spaghetti and meatballs, lasagna and chicken attract a hungry lunch cr owd at this casual spot, and brunch specialties are just as popular. $ p FOX & HOUND 302 Bullitt Ln., 394-7620. A “British pub” concept operated by a W ichita, Kansas-based chain, Fox & Hound features a “mid-casual” menu with burgers, pizza, chicken and pot roast, in a large venue with plenty of billiar d tables and an ample supply of large-screen televisions. $$ p f h ✿ GERSTLE’S PLACE 3801 Frankfort Ave., 742-8616.

A popular St. Matthews neighborhood tavern since 1924. Although dining is secondar y to booze and sports her e, the food goes well beyond mer e pub grub. $ p e h ✿ GRANVILLE INN 1601 S. Thir d St., 635-6475. A longtime gathering place for U of L students, faculty and fans, this stur dy r edbrick tavern just north of the university campus of fers a good variety of bar munchies, sandwiches and simple grilled far e plus pizza. It’ s per haps best known, though, for the signatur e Granville Bur ger, widely reputed as one of the best bur gers in town. $ GREAT AMERICAN GRILL 2735 Crittenden Dr .

(Hilton), 637-2424. Located in the Louisville International Airpor t Hilton. Salads, bur gers, pastas and sandwiches ar e available for the casual diner; main entrées include New York strip, filet of salmon and more. $ p f HITCHING POST INN 7314 Fegenbush Ln., 2394724. In addition to its full bar and beer gar den, and lively conversation, the Hitching Post Inn offers an array of pub grub, including bur gers, chicken tenders, and sandwiches. $ p h HOOPS GRILL AND SPORTS BAR 6733 Strawberry Ln., 375-4667. The name says it all: spor ts, casual dining and good things to drink all find their natural meeting place at this friendly neighborhood spot wher e hot wings and hoops r eign supreme. $ p f h ✿ INDIGO JOE’S SPOR TS PUB & REST AURANT 1321 Herr Ln., 423-1633. Louisville’ s first outpost of a growing Los Angeles-based chain, Indigo Joe’ s is a family-friendly American-style spor ts bar . It features large portions and 44 flat-screen televisions, with speakers on the tables so diners can tune in the sporting event of their choice. $$ p f JAKE’S & MR. G’S 10432 Shelbyville Rd., 244-0165 $ p JERRY’S ON THE RIVER 100 W . Riverside Dr ., Jeffersonville, IN, 282-2500. The river view outshines the menu at this r estaurant that looks acr oss the Ohio with a sweeping view of Louisville. The fare is fair — sandwiches, seafood, and a few Mexican specialties, but the long bar , the outdoor deck, and the big picture windows make this a great spot for watching the towboats stream up and down the river. $ p f JERSEY’S CAFÉ 1515 L ynch Ln., Clarksville, IN, 288-2100. Quality, af fordable far e that goes well beyond pub grub to include an awesome smokehouse bur ger and barbecued ribs so tender , they say, that you can just tap the end of the bone on your plate, and the meat falls of f. $ p e h ✿ THE LIGHTHOUSE 202 Main St., Jef fersonville, IN, 283-0077. This lighthouse has been a beacon of casual, home cooking and tavern envir onment for years. Daily specials, appetizers, chicken and fish baskets, salads and desserts round out the menu. $ ✿ MAGGIE’S NEIGHBORHOOD BAR & GRILLE 9909 Taylorsville Rd., 267-9604. Just of f Jeffersontown’s old Town Square, this neighborhood gathering www.foodanddine.com Winter 2009 73

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place of fers casual diner -style far e in a spor ts bar setting with a fine fir eplace to add atmospher e. $$

NEW ALBANIAN BREWING CO. 3312 Plaza Dr., New Albany, IN, 944-2577. (see review under Pizza)

pfh✿ MICHAEL MURPHY’S RESTAURANT 701 S. First St., 587-0013. This full ser vice restaurant and bar has accommodated hardy thirsts and appetites for a couple of generations. Despite the Irish appeal, the food is American and lots of it. $ p MY BAR 3306 Plaza Dr., New Albany IN, 948-6501. $

pfeh NEW DIRECTION BAR & GRILL 2630 Chamberlain Ln., 243-8429. $ p e h NV TAVERN 1202 Bardstown Rd., 452-6101. $

pf

eh PUCKER’S BAR & GRILL 4041 Preston Hwy., 3647250. This South-end spot of fers a good-size dining r oom and a par ticularly attractive alfr esco patio. The bill of fare appears longer and more varied than your typical bar menu, our corr espondent reports. $ p f e h RUSTIC FROG 1720 Old River Rd., New Albany IN, 608-2543. $ p f e h SAINT’S 131 Breckinridge Ln., 891-8883. Almost like two r estaurants in one, Saints featur es both a small, intimate, candle-lighted r oom and a lar ger, happily boister ous main r oom with the look and feel of a sports bar. $$ p e h ✿ STUDIO’S GRILLE & PUB 207 E. Main St., New Albany, IN, 590-3171. Add Studio’ s to the downtown New Albany Renaissance. T rish Meyer’s fine dining r oom and bar of fers an historic envir onment, a stylish outdoor cour tyard and a galler y of local art. $$ p f h SULLY’S SALOON 434 S. Four th St., (Four th Street Live) 585-4100. $$ p f h TENGO SED CANTINA 432B Fourth St., 540-1461.

“Tengo Sed” is Spanish for “I’m thirsty,” and if that’s your pr oblem, you can easily solve it in this popular Latino-accented watering hole in Four th Street Live. A selection of Cancun-style star ters, tacos and sandwiches is available. $$ p f h THE BACK DOOR 2787 S. Floyd St., 637-5241. Longtime owners John Dant and Mike Ewing are known for running one of the city’s friendliest pubs at this Mid-City Mall saloon. Limited bar far e, but don’ t miss the chicken wings. $ p f h TURKEY JOE’S 2809 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy ., 3279464. Turkey Joe’s advertises “Wings, Burgers and More,” but hot wings are the specialty, and you can take your pick of chicken, turkey or boneless chicken pr epared by a Sullivan-trained chef in a comfortable sports-bar setting. $ p h VIC’S CAFÉ E. Market St., New Albany, IN, 944-4338. $ ZAZOO’S 102 Bauer Ave., 894-8030. If you’re looking for casual dining, ZaZoo’s offers a mighty appealing option with its laid-back and welcoming neighborhood bar feeling. $ p f e h ✿

CHINESE CHEF 2619 S. Fourth St., 634-0979. $ ✿ CHINESE EXPRESS 3228 Crums Ln., 448-1360. $ ✿ BLUE NILE ETHIOPIAN 558 S. Fifth St., 625-7400.

Missing the Ethiopian dishes at the now-closed Café Kilimanjaro? Weep no more — Ethiopian returns to downtown with this welcoming lunch spot, with a choice of buffet or menu service. $ h ✿ CHEZ SENEBA AFRICAN REST AURANT 4218 Bishop Ln., 473-8959. Offering another interesting ethnic cuisine to Louisville’ s international dining scene, with gener ous portions of spicy Senegalese cuisine from West Africa. $ QUEEN OF SHEBA ETHIOPIAN 2804 Taylorsville Rd., 459-6301. This authentic Ethiopian restaurant offers a wide selection of intriguing Ethiopian dishes, including a variety of vegetarian selections as well as the traditional beef and chicken specialties. Ethiopian far e is made for sharing and eating with the fingers, but they’ll gladly make forks available for the finicky. $ ✿

#1 ASIAN BUFFET 1250 Bardstown Rd., 451-6033.

Not just another in the her d of all-you-can-eat Chinese buf fets, this 350 seat eater y is the first between-the-coasts outpost of the original #1 buffet in NYC. $$ ✿ 8 CHINA BUFFET 1850 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 4933884. $ ✿ A TASTE OF CHINA 1167 S. Fourth St., 585-5582. $ ✿ ASIAN BUFFET 3813 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 945-1888, 1305 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 285-8888, 3646 Mall Rd., 479-9989. Competent cookery and car eful management that ensur es buffet of ferings stay fr esh and hot makes these buffets a good choice among the growing crowd of all-you-can-eat Asian spots. $ p ✿ AUGUST MOON 2269 Lexington Rd., 456-6569.

August Moon’ s secr et ingr edient is the culinar y oversight of Chef Peng Looi, better known as the force behind Asiatique. Housed in a soaring, open space with a Zen master’s style. Consistent commitment in the kitchen and fr om the staf f makes it a top spot for Asian far e. A lovely patio at the r ear affords an alfr esco dining experience overlooking shady Beargrass Creek. $$$ p f ✿ BD’S MONGOLIAN GRILL 1890 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 499-4406. The proprietors of this Michiganbased East End chain invite you to “go Mongo,” building your own choice of ingredients and sauces for the chefs to stir-fry.

BAMBOO HOUSE 4036 Poplar Level Rd., 451-3113.

An old-timer among local Chinese restaurants, this Southeastern Louisville spot may not of fer the trendiest Asian fare, but it’s a reliable source for the familiar Cantonese-American standards. $ ✿ CHINA 1 123 Breckinridge Ln., 897-6511. $ ✿

BLUEGRASS BREWING COMP ANY 3929 Shelbyville Rd., 899-7070, 636 E. Main St., 584-2739, 2 Theater Square, 568-2224. A must-stop destination for beer lovers on the national ar tisanal-brew trail, but it’ s mor e than just a br ewpub. BBC’ s management gives equally serious attention to both liquid and solid fare, making this a great place to stop in for both dinner and a beer . $ p f e ✿ CUMBERLAND BREWS 1576 Bar dstown Rd., 4588727. Giving new meaning to the term “micr obrewery,” Cumberland Br ews may be one of the smallest eateries in town. It’s usually packed, earning its crowds the old-fashioned way by providing very good food, friendly service, and high-quality handcrafted artisan beers. $ f e h ✿ 74 Winter 2009 www.foodanddine.com

CHINA TASTE 135 Quar termaster Ct., Jef fersonville, IN, 284-5580. $ ✿

CHINA BUFFET 706 E. Hwy . 131, Clarksville, IN, 288-8989. Chinese buffets are ubiquitous, but this one is squar ely in the upper range. Regularly refreshed steam tables, attentively fried rice, and properly spicy General Tso’s Chicken raise it above the run-of-the-mill places typical of the genre. $ ✿ CHINA CASTLE 7420 Third Street Rd., 367-4272. $ ✿ CHINA GARDEN 7309 Pr eston Hwy., 968-4672. A busy restaurant with the double pleasure of Chinese and American menu items. $ ✿ CHINA INN 1925 S. Fourth St., 636-2020. It’s not the posh, private Faculty Club, but this little Asian spot may be one of the most popular eateries around the University of Louisville’s Belknap Campus. $ ✿ CHINA KING 3830 Ruckriegel Pkwy., 240-0500. $ ✿ RED = ADVERTISER

CHONG GARDEN 10341 Dixie Hwy., 935-1628. $ ✿ CHOPSTICKS 416 E. Broadway, 589-9145. $ ✿ CHOPSTICKS HOUSE 2112 W. Broadway, 772-3231. $ ✿ CHUNG KING CHINESE AMERICAN REST AURANT 110 E. Market St., 584-8880. $ ✿ CRYSTAL CHINESE 3901 W. Market St., 776-9702. $ ✿ DOUBLE DRAGON 1255 Goss Ave., 635-5656. A standout among fast-food shopping-center Chinese eateries, Double Dragon hits on all cylinders, turning out consistently well-pr epared and flavorful fare. $ ✿ DOUBLE DRAGON II 12480 LaGrange Rd., 241-7766, 9901 LaGrange Rd., 326-0099, 6832 Bar dstown Rd., 231-3973, 3179 S. Second St., 367-6668. $ ✿ DOUBLE DRAGON 8 231 S. Fifth St., 587-8686. $ ✿ DOUBLE DRAGON 9 9501 Taylorsville Rd., 267-5353. $ ✿ DOUBLE DRAGON BUFFET 233 Whittington Pkwy., 339-8897. A sizable buf fet in a chic East End shopping strip, offers a good range of Chinese treats on its all-you-can-eat buf fet. The far e seems prepared with attention and care. $ ✿ DYNASTY BUFFET 2400 Lime Kiln Ln., 339-8868.

The continuing pr oliferation of look alike, taste alike, all-you-can-eat Chinese buffets never fails to amaze me. But I’m happy to r eport that Dynasty Buffet ranks well above the median. $$ ✿ EASTERN HOUSE 5372 Dixie Hwy., 568-2688. $ ✿ EMPEROR OF CHINA 2210 Holiday Manor Shopping Center, 426-1717. One of Louisville’ s fanciest and most noteworthy Chinese restaurants, the Emper or’s quar ters ar e stylishly str ewn acr oss multiple levels of a former suburban movie theater.

Outstanding. $$ p ✿ EMPRESS OF CHINA 2249 Hikes Ln., 451-2500.

Older sister to The Emperor of China, the Empress was one of Louisville’s first serious, authentic upscale Cantonese restaurants, and its fare still stands up to fancy spots in New York’s Chinatown. $$ p ✿ FIRST WOK 3967 Seventh St. Rd., 448-0588. $ ✿ GOLDEN BUDDHA 8000 Preston Hwy., 968-7700. $ ✿ GOLDEN PALACE BUFFET 161 Outer Loop, 3682868. $ ✿ GOLDEN ST AR CHINESE REST AURANT 3681833, 3458 Taylor Blvd. $ ✿ GOLDEN WALL 3201 Fern Valley Rd., 968-9717. $ ✿ GREAT WALL 2206 Brownsboro Rd., 891-8881. This Clifton r estaurant ranks high up in the fast-food Chinese pack. Offering steaming-hot, competently prepared and flavorful dishes. $ ✿ GREAT WOK 2502 Pr eston Hwy ., 634-1918. Just about every shopping center in town has a fastfood Chinese spot, but this one stands out, generating a buzz of wor d-of-mouth publicity about its well-crafted Chinese dishes at a bar gainbasement price. $ ✿ HAPPY DRAGON 2600 W . Br oadway, 778-2573.

Catering to of fice and r esidential customers, this Chinese restaurant has ser ved the W est Broadway community for many years. $ f ✿ HONG KONG CHINESE REST AURANT 345 New Albany Plaza, New Albany, IN., 945-1818. $ ✿ HONG KONG F AST FOOD 5312 S. Thir d St., 3678828. One of the many international eateries in Iroquois Manor, this fast-food Chinese spot of fers Cantonese standar ds hot and fast and inexpensively. Check the daily specials for an occasional intriguing item. $ ✿

p = FULL BAR

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are well done, but we r ecommend the authentic Chinese menu, which is available in English $ ✿

HUNAN WOK 231-0393, 6445 Bardstown Rd. $ ✿ JADE GARDEN BUFFET 1971 Brownsboro Rd., 8930822. Y et another lar ge, shiny , all-you-can-eat Chinese buffet featuring mostly Chinese dishes with a few American-style items and sushi r olls. $ ✿ JADE PALACE 1201 Herr Ln., 425-9878. Jade Palace is a decent place for Chinese food at any time, but don’t miss it at mid-day Friday thr ough Monday, when it of fers the metr o ar ea’s only dim sum (Chinese brunch) menu. $$ p ✿ JASMINE 13823 English V illa Dr ., 244-8896. A charming Asian eater y, wher e you can enjoy familiar Chinese-American plates or indulge your more adventur ous side with a selection of mor e unusual authentic dishes fr om the “Chinese Menu,” available on request. $ f ✿ JUMBO BUFFET 2731 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy ., 4950028. Housed in a good-looking dining room, high on Chinatown-style glitz and glitter, Jumbo offers a standard all-you-can-eat Chinese buf fet, with a larger-than-average selection of American dishes for those who want something less exotic. $$ ✿ KING WOK 291 N. Hubbar ds Ln., 899-7188.

Another of the city’ s many tiny shopping-center fast-food Chinese eateries, King W ok offers all the familiar standards plus a small lunch buf fet. $ ✿ LIANG’S CAFÉ 3571 Springhurst Blvd., 425-0188.

Genial host Roland W ong keeps Liang’s in the top tier of local Chinese dining rooms with both authentic Chinese cuisine and fine Chinese-American dishes in this airy, stylish dining room. $ ✿ LING LING 10476 Shelbyville Rd., 245-2100. Modern and efficient in its East End shopping center location, Ling Ling is a cut above fast-food Chinese; better yet, it adds a few V ietnamese dishes to the bill of fare. $$ ✿ LIU’S GARDEN 11517 Shelbyville Rd., 244-9898.

Small but charming, with white tablecloths and soft Chinese music, family-run Liu’s gains our approval with fr esh, competent cooker y and cour teous, friendly ser vice that makes you feel like you’r e visiting a Chinese family at their home. $$ ✿

RED SUN CHINESE RESTAURANT 499-7788, 3437 Breckinridge Ln. $ ✿ ROYAL GARDEN 5717 Pr eston Hwy ., 969-3788, 6801 Dixie Hwy., 937-0428, 5316 Bar dstown Rd., 491-8228. $ ✿ SESAME CHINESE RESTAURANT 9409 Shelbyville Rd., 339-7000. Not just another shopping-center Chinese r estaurant, this East End eatery has provided some of the best fine-dining Chinese meals I’ve enjoyed in Louisville. $$ p ✿ SHAH’S MONGOLIAN GRILL Stony Brook Shopping Center, 493-0234, 423 E. W arnock St., 409-5029.

Thirteenth Century Mongol warriors used to turn their steel shields to use as frying pans over the campfire, using their swor ds as spoons. Shah’ s carries their spirit for ward. This all-you-can-eat buffet is fun, and the food is fine. $$ p ✿ SHANGHAI RESTAURANT 526 S. Fifth St. 568-8833. $✿ SICHUAN GARDEN 9850 Linn Station Rd., 4266767. Another Asian r estaurant that has stood the test of time, Sichuan Gar den of fers high-end Chinatown style and well-made dishes, plus a few Thai specialties to spice up the bill of far e. $ ✿ TEA ST ATION CHINESE BISTRO 9422 Nor ton Commons Blvd., 423-1202. This comfor table, sitdown Chinese r estaurant owned and operated by Paul and Amy Y ang joins the small but gr owing cluster of businesses in the Nor ton Commons village center. $$ f ✿ WOK EXPRESS 234 W. Broadway, 583-8988. $ ✿ WONTON EXPRESS 3000 Hikes Ln., 452-2646. Traditional Chinese fare. Family-owned-and-operated, this popular neighborhood establishment has enjoyed a steady patronage for seventeen years. $ ✿

YANG KEE NOODLE 7900 Shelbyville Rd. (Oxmoor Center), 426-0800. This locally owned and operated Oxmoor spot is color ful and stylish. It of fers an intriguing array of appealing noodle and rice dishes from all over Asia with fast-food ef ficiency and prices happily matched by sit-down r estaurant quality and style. $ f ✿ YEN CHING 1818 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-3581. $ ✿ YOU-CARRYOUT-A 1551 E. Tenth St., Jeffersonville, IN, 288-8313, 827 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville, IN, 282-8881, 3308 Plaza Dr., 944-9866. $ ✿ YUMMY CHINESE REST AURANT 968-7450, 8625 Preston Hwy. $ ✿

SARI SARI FILIPINO CUISINE 2339 Frankfort Ave., 894-0585. The city’ s sole Filipino eater y of fers a tasty introduction to the Malayo-Polynesian fare of this Southeast Asian island nation. Filipino dishes are af fordable during the dinner hour and downright cheap on the lunch buf fet. $

ASAHI JAP ANESE 3701 Lexington Rd., 895-1130.

This small r oom in a new St. Matthews building formerly housed Sahara Grill, a fine but short-lived Persian restaurant. Now it gives way to this neighborhood sushi spot wher e awar d-winning Chef Yong Bong Tak, formerly of Osaka, works his magic at the sushi bar. $ ✿ BEIJING GRILL AND SUSHI BAR Sellersburg IN, 248-0900. $ ✿

8007 Hwy . 311,

BENDOYA SUSHI BAR 217 S. Fifth St., 581-0700.

Adding international flair to its downtown neighborhood, Bendoya Sushi Bar is a genuine, serious sushi bar in a stor efront just across the street from the courthouse. $ ✿

NEW CHINA 231 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 254-9299. $ ✿ ONION REST AURANT TEA HOUSE 4211 Charlestown Rd., New Albany , IN, 981-0188.

Masterful Chinese and Japanese cuisine (including magnificent hotpots, donburi dishes, and woodenbucket steamed rice) set this airy r estaurant apart from the horde of other Asian spots. $$ ✿ ORCHID ASIAN CAFÉ 400 W. Main St., New Albany, IN, 948-8887. Pr oprietor Danny T ran, fr om a successful Ohio restaurateur family, offers Chinese dishes as well as a broader range of Asian fare in an upscale atmosphere. $ f ✿ ORIENTAL EXPRESS 12567 Shelbyville Rd., 2449838. $ ✿ ORIENTAL HOUSE 4302 Shelbyville Rd., 897-1017.

New owners continue the tradition at this longstanding St. Matthews r estaurant, featuring both traditional Chinese-American and now , authentic Cantonese, menus. $ p ✿ ORIENTAL ST AR 4212 Bishop Ln., 452-9898. A long-time ar ea favorite in this heavy traf fic lunch area. This establishment is quite good with Lo Mein Noodles, and Sweet and Sour Chicken. $ ✿ PANDA CHINESE REST AURANT 9543 U.S. 42., 228-6400. $ ✿ QUICK WOK 801 W. Broadway, 584-6519. $ ✿ RED PEPPER CHINESE CUISINE 2901 Brownsboro Rd., 891-8868. W ith a skilled Sichuanese chef who’s owned a r estaurant in Chicago’s Chinatown and cooked at Chinese embassies ar ound the world, Red Pepper starts out in the top tier of local Chinese r estaurants. Chinese-American standar ds

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CAVIAR JAPANESE RESTAURANT 416 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 625-3090. (See listing under Upscale Casual) FUJI JAP ANESE STEAKHOUSE 3576 Springhurst Blvd., 339-1978, 12905 Shelbyville Rd., 253-0036.

Part of the fun of sitting at the sushi bar is that you get to watch the chef at work. Put in your or der, then sit back and sip your tea while the ar tist creates edible delights. This suburban sushi bar does the job well. $$ p ✿ HANABI JAP ANESE REST AURANT 6027 T imber Ridge Dr., 228-8244. A hospitable welcome, casual setting, and well-fashioned sushi and Japanese specialties have made this family run Prospect spot a worthy alternative in the East End dining scene. $$ p ✿ HIKO A MON SUSHI BAR 1115 Herr Ln., 365-1651.

Japanese-trained sushi chef Norihiko Nakanashi has earned quite a local following at Shogun. Now he brings his sushi knives to this sushi bar and Japanese grill in W estport V illage. In addition to fine dining at the bar or in traditional Japanese dining rooms, Hiko A Mon of fers sushi-grade fish from a small fish market. $$$ p ✿ ICHIBAN SAMURAI 1510 Lake Shor e Ct., 412-3339.

This large Japanese-farmhouse building, originally a Benihana, offers similar delights, with the traditional slice-and-dice food show and good sushi. Best deal, while the of fer lasts: All-you-can-eat sushi nightly until the karaoke starts at 9 p.m. $$$ p ✿ KANSAI JAP ANESE STEAKHOUSE 1370 V eterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 218-9238. T raditional Japanese dishes and sushi ar e available her e, but like most Japanese Steakhouses, choose the grill tables with their slice-and-dice Japanese chef show for maximum entertainment. $$$ p ✿ KOBE STEAK HOUSE 301 S. Indiana Ave., Jeffersonville IN, 280-8500. Southern Indiana’ s first serious Japanese r estaurant is drawing cr owds with its exceptional sushi bar, with skilled and friendly chefs who can be relied on to fashion fresh and tasty bites that are just about certain to please. $$$ p ✿ MAIDO ESSENTIAL JAPANESE 1758 Frankfort Ave., 894-8775. Not just another sushi bar , cool and stylish Maido is Louisville’s first and only “izakaya”style r estaurant in the style of Kansai, the r egion surrounding Japan’s second city , Osaka. It’ s also a sake bar, pouring a good variety of ar tisanal rice wine. $$ f ✿ MIKATO JAP ANESE STEAKHOUSE 3938 Dupont Circle, 891-0081. $$ p f h ✿ OISHII SUSHI 2245 Bardstown Rd., 618-2829. This small, attractive Highlands spot, operated by sushi chefs who’ve put in time at the popular Sappor o, has been attracting raves fr om neighborhood sushi lovers. $$ ✿ OSAKA SUSHI BAR 2039 Frankfort Ave., 894-9501.

This long-standing Clifton favorite ser ves up sushi and other Japanese dishes in a bright and cheery environment to a loyal clientele. $$ ✿ RAW SUSHI LOUNGE 520 S. Four th St., 585-5880.

Raw makes good use of hip quar ters in a glitzy renovation of the old Marmaduke Building (next to the Seelbach). Diners may choose fr om a br oad selection of competent sushi and Japanese fair, plus fine international seafood dishes at dinner , in a sophisticated lounge atmosphere. $$$ p f e h ✿ SAKE BLUE JAP ANESE BISTRO 9326 Cedar Center Way, 708-1500. This welcome addition to the Fern Cr eek dining scene of fers the “fullservice” Japanese r estaurant experience of hibachi grill tables and sushi bar , along with a traditional dining r oom and cocktail bar . $$ p

h✿ SAKURA BLUE 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 897-3600.

Located in elegant, upscale quar ters in a St. Matthews shopping center , Sakura Blue — dir ect 76 Winter 2009 www.foodanddine.com

descendant of the old, popular Bonsai — ranks among the city’s top sushi bars. $$ ✿ SAPPORO JAPANESE GRILL & SUSHI 1706 Bardstown Rd., 479-5550. Ensconced in the middle of Bardstown Road’ s “r estaurant r ow,” tr endy, glitzy Sapporo steadily ranks as one of the city’s top spots for sushi and Japanese far e. If fr esh, well-made sushi is what you ar e hungr y for , you can’ t go wrong with a stop at Sappor o’s bar. $$$ p h ✿ SHOGUN JAPANESE STEAK HOUSE 9026 Taylorsville Rd., 499-5700, 4110 Hampton Lake W ay, 3940123. Shogun’s decor is attractive, and quality food and ser vice make it a pleasant dining destination.

It’s unthr eatening enough to appeal to those who find exotic cuisine “challenging,” but good enough to satisfy just about anyone who craves a Japanese dinner or a bite of sushi. $$$ p ✿ TOKYO JAPANESE RESTAURANT 2415C Lime Kiln Ln., 339-7171. It’ s appealing, pleasant in atmosphere and friendly in ser vice, and most impor tant, this East End sushi bar ser ves excellent Japanese treats, pr epared with car e and flair fr om highquality, impeccably fresh ingredients. $$ ✿

THAI ORCHIDS 9114 Taylorsville Rd. (Stony Br ook Shopping Center), 493-4073. This location has been known for good Thai r estaurants, and the short history of Thai Orchids shows that they have picked up the mantle, providing Jeffersontown-area lovers of southeast Asian cuisine with excellent noodles and curries. $$ ✿ THAI SIAM 3002 Bardstown Rd., 458-6871. Louisville’s first Thai r estaurant, this Gar diner Lane spot has built a loyal audience over the years, per haps responding to its r egular visitors’ pr eferences with food that’s a bit on the tame side for Thai. $$ ✿ THAI SMILE 5 5800 Preston Hwy., 961-9018. Part of a regional mini-chain, Thai Smile 5 serves up simple but well-prepared Thai far e. Don’t ask for the fivechile-pepper heat unless you really mean it! $ ✿ THAI TASTE 1977 Br ownsboro Rd., 897-7682. The owner-host of this friendly, casual spot in Cr escent Hill had a r estaurant in Bangkok befor e moving to Louisville, and his experience shows. The warmth of his welcome — and the quality of the food — make Thai Taste special. $ ✿

KOREANA II 5009 Preston Hwy., 968-9686. One of the city’ s few r estaurants devoted entir ely to authentic Kor ean far e, Kor eana is wor th a special trip for this ethnic cuisine that offers a hearty, spicy alternative to the more familiar Chinese. $$ ✿

ANNIE CAFÉ 308 W. W oodlawn, 363-4847. Annie Café ranks not just as one of the better V ietnamese restaurants, but one the city’ s best of any variety , particularly when value and price ar e taken into account. Authentic V ietnamese food is made with care and served with pride. $ ✿

LEE’S KOREAN REST AURANT 1941 Bishop Ln., 456-9714. This little spot has been a secr et since the ’70s, and it just keeps on going. Walk into what looks like a diner in an of fice building, but push past the counter to the back r oom, wher e you’ll find generous heaps of really authentic Korean food for next to nothing. $$ ✿

CAFÉ THUY VAN 5600 National Turnpike, 366-6959.

A bit of f the beaten track, this South End spot is true, authentic V ietnamese. Friendly ser vice overcomes any language barrier, and prices ar e hard to beat. Don’ t miss the Banh Mi, traditional Vietnamese sandwiches. $ ✿

PINK DOOR NOODLES & TEA LOUNGE 2222 Dundee Rd., 295-2441. This popular Highlands spot boasts an edgy, high-tech Japanese style, complete with a live video wall. Look for lighter Asian far e, noodle dishes and sushi, along with a wide variety of teas, sakes and techno-Japanese cocktails. $ p ✿

MAI’S THAI REST AURANT 1411 E. T enth St., Jeffersonville, IN, 282-0198. With a broad range of well-prepared and authentic Thai dishes, Mai’ s is the eater y to beat among the metr o ar ea’s Thai restaurants. For both authenticity and quality , it’s right up ther e with the top Thai places in New York, San Francisco and Seattle. $ ✿ SALA THAI 526 W. Main St., 493-3944. After a move to a smaller, more casual downtown venue, Sala Thai continues its run as one of the best Thai r estaurants in town. $$ p f ✿ SIMPLY THAI 318 W allace A ve., 899-9670. Owner Mahn Saing is Burmese; his wife, a classically trained chef, is Thai. They’ve beautifully made over this little St. Matthews spot, of fering a small menu of traditional Thai dishes, well-made sushi and a few upscale Thai-style “fusion” dinner items. $ f ✿ TAN THAI REST AURANT 4510 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 948-2012. It’ s in a strip mall, but the folks who run T anThai cr eate a distinctive atmosphere by hanging sheer white scrims that divvy the room up into serene little chambers. The menu of Thai specialties is small — just a dozen or so entrées — but nicely executed and beautifully presented. $ ✿ THAI CAFÉ 2226 Holiday Manor, 425-4815. You’ll find this small café tucked into a corner of the “Holiday Manor Walk.” Owner Chavantee Snow and her family offer a small but well-pr epared selection of authentic Thai dishes at very reasonable prices. $ ✿ RED = ADVERTISER

LA QUE 1019 Bar dstown Rd., 238-3981. Replacing the original Lemongrass in the Highlands (which continues to operate its suburban pr operties), La Que offers a similar blend of Vietnamese and other Asian cuisine. $ f h ✿ LEMONGRASS CAFÉ 11606 Shelbyville Rd., 2447110, 106 Fairfax Ave., 893-7757. Lemongrass Café offers an appealing blend of V ietnamese, Thai and Chinese fare in a simple setting that transcends an obviously low budget with style and grace. $ h ✿ PHO BINH MINH 6709 Strawberry Ln., 375-9249.

Tiny and lovably cozy , this six-table South End spot is true authentic V ietnamese, and so ar e the proprietors. There’s some language barrier, but the owners are so friendly, and the food so good, that it’s worth the ef fort if you love r eal Asian far e and inexpensive prices. $ ✿ VIETNAM KITCHEN 5339 Mitscher Ave., 363-5154.

This little South End stor efront is well wor th seeking out. The chef goes beyond the or dinary, preparing authentic V ietnamese dishes of unusual subtlety and flavor. We have yet to be disappointed with the quality of the food or ser vice. $ ✿ ZEN GARDEN 2240 Frankfor t A ve., 895-9114.

Vegetarians with a philosophical bent have found a combination guru and den mother in Zen Gar den’s owner Coco, who ser ves up sincer e and soulful Asian vegan dishes.$ f ✿

BEHAR CAFÉ 5600 National T urnpike, 368-5658.

This shopping-center stor efront has become a popular after -work gathering spot for the city’ s growing community of immigrants from Bosnia, for whom it’ s a comfor table place to get a drink, a sausage, and feel at home. $ h ✿ BOSAN-MAK 3825 Old Bar dstown Rd., 456-1919.

Friendly and exceptionally hospitable, family-owned

p = FULL BAR

f = OUTDOOR DINING

e = LIVE MUSIC

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BosnaMak celebrates the heritage of the owners and chefs in Bosnia and Macedonia in the Balkans and picks up a few culinar y additions fr om their time in Germany. $ f ✿

ERIKA’S GERMAN REST AURANT 9301 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy. 499-8822. For a city with a str ong German heritage, Louisville is woefully shor t on authentic German r estaurants, but this genuinely Germanic eatery attracts hungr y cr owds to Hurstbourne. Take care not to miss its former fastfood quarters just off I-64 local access ramp. $$ GASTHAUS 4812 Brownsboro Center, 899-7177. The Greipel family comes straight fr om Bavaria to Eastern Louisville with Gasthaus, a destination for local lovers of Germanic far e. The setting has as authentic a feeling as the hear ty and delicious German dishes here. $$$

BRENDAN’S RESTAURANT & PUB 3921 Shelbyville Rd., 895-1212. Owner Tom O’Shea (also of Flanagan’s and O’Shea’s) has done a gr eat job of endowing this old St. Matthews saloon with an upscale feel, gourmet-style dining options and a ver y popular bar. $$ p e h ✿ IRISH ROVER 2319 Frankfort Ave., 899-3544, 117 E. Main St, LaGrange, 222-2286. A warm and welcoming pub with an authentic Irish accent, this is a delightful place for a tall glass of Guinness, a snack and a bit of Irish music. W e recommend the fish and chips. $ p f ✿ MOLLY MALONE’S 933 Baxter A ve., 473-1222. A carefully constructed r eplica of a modern urban Irish pub, Molly Malone’s is worthy addition to the city’s eating and drinking scene, as authentically Irish as the Wearin’ o’ the Green. $$ p f e h ✿

ANGELINA’S CAFÉ 1701 UPS Dr ., 326-5555. Y ou don’t have to be an Italian grandfather to play bocce, now that ther e ar e several venues ar ound town for this amiable game. The six-cour t suburban Gotcha Bocce, run by spor tscaster Bob Valvano, also houses this casual all-Italian eatery , with dishes based on Bob’s family recipes. $ ✿ BUCA DI BEPPO 2051 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy ., 4932426. Buca di Beppo’ s recipe has all the necessar y ingredients: huge portions of excellent food served with flair and the Buca scene is fun, a conscious parody of the exuberant decor of family ItalianAmerican restaurants of the 1950s. $$ p ✿ CARRABBA’S ITALIAN GRILL 617 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 412-2218. Not your or dinary suburban shopping-center franchise eatery . This place dramatically exceeds expectations. Fr om warmed bread dishes with quality olive oil to first-rate ItalianAmerican fare at reasonable prices. $$ p f ✿ COME BACK INN 909 Swan St., 627-1777, 415 Spring St., Jef fersonville IN, 285-1777. W ith both its branches located in urban neighbor hoods, Come Back Inn looks pr etty much like any other neighborhood saloon. But unlike most Louisville neighborhood saloons, this one houses a family Italian spot that wouldn’ t be out of place in Chicago or Brooklyn. $ p ✿ LA GALLO ROSSO BISTRO 1325 Bar dstown Rd., 473-0015. This small but attractive Highlands spot in the Shoppes on the Alley ser ves casual Italian and Continental food in a cozy family-style setting. $$ f ✿ MARTINI ITALIAN BISTRO 4021 Summit Plaza Dr., 394-9797. The successful formula of this Ohiobased chain featur es hear ty and well-fashioned Italian entrées, pastas and pizzas ser ved up in a comfortable appr oximation of a T uscan trattoria.

An open kitchen with wood-fired oven gives a peek at the culinary goings-on. $$$ p f h ✿

OLD SPAGHETTI FACTORY 235 W. Market St., 5811070. One of the original ventur es of this national firm. Bright and noisy , it of fers well-made if basic Italian family fare and dishes it out for surprisingly low prices. $$ p h ✿ THE OLIVE GARDEN 1320 Hurstbourne Pkwy ., 339-7190, 9730 V on Allmen Ct., 425-3607, 1230 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 218-8304. The top property of the Dar den chain, Olive Gar den now operates more than 500 properties and bills itself as the leading Italian r estaurant in the casual dining industry. Hear ty pastas of all shapes and sauces, appetizers and combo platters all carry the Italian theme. $$ p ✿ PESTO’S ITALIAN RESTAURANT 566 S. Fifth St., 584-0567. Of fices for blocks ar ound empty into this bustling Italian eatery for weekday lunches featuring hear ty platters of lasagna, zesty salads, red wine and iced tea. On Satur days, the kitchen switches over to a special Persian menu. $ ✿ PORCINI 2730 Frankfor t A ve., 894-8686. An expanded dining r oom and a stylish alfr esco patio facing busy Frankfor t Ave. make Por cini’s an even more popular destination, a place to see and be seen — and, while you’re at it, enjoy a drink and a decent Italian-American dinner. $$$ p ✿ PUCCINI’S SMILING TEETH 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 721-0170. A small but gr owing pizza chain based in Indianapolis opens its first Louisville pr operty on Shelbyville Road. Thin pizza by the slice and other Italian-American dishes ar e ser ved in an attractive setting that’s a cut above fast food. $$ ✿ RAY PARRELLA’S ITALIAN CUISINE 2311 Frankfort Ave., 899-5575. Old-fashioned Italian-American family fare is ser ved up with a warm and casual welcome at Ray Parr ella’s, the latest ventur e of a family that’s been pleasing locals for a generation. $$ f ✿

O’SHEA’S TRADITIONAL IRISH PUB 956 Baxter Ave., 589-7373. Celebrating its 50th anniversar y this year, O’Shea’s offers a steady schedule of music, an assor tment of beers and mainstr eam American pub grub, fr om the cheesy fries to the Reuben sandwich. $$ p f e h ✿ RI RA IRISH PUB 427 S. Four th St. (Four th Str eet Live) 587-1825. Pr omising patr ons “an authentic Irish experience,” this gr owing chain opened last year in a sizable 9,000-square-foot space in Fourth Street Live. Ri Ra (Gaelic for “celebration and good fun”) decorates its pubs with authentic furnishings from Ireland. $$$ p f e h ✿ SHENANIGAN’S IRISH GRILL 1611 Norris Pl., 4543919. Not just a neighborhood tavern (although it’s a fine neighbor hood tavern), Irish-accented Shenanigan’s goes an extra step with an estimable selection of memorable burgers. $ p f e h ✿

ADRIENNE’S ITALIAN RESTAURANT 129 W. Court Ave., Jef fersonville, IN, 282-2665. The owners of popular Adrienne’ s Baker y in Jef fersonville have recently opened this new sit-down dining spot with an Italian theme. $$ f ✿ AMERIGO 1871 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy ., 426-4040.

Chef Anthony Lorie, once a chef at RA W and later a co-owner of Bluegrass Bistr o in the Derby City Antique Mall, now takes the helm of this new Italian-style East End spot, first Louisville outpost of a small but gr owing Nashville-based chain that has won applause for quality. $$$ p f h ✿ AMICI´ 316 Ormsby A ve., 637-3167. Restaurateurs Sharon and Scott Risinger host this inviting Italianstyle restaurant that brings a touch of T uscany to this attractive and historic Old Louisville building. $$ p f ✿

h = LATE NIGHT

✿ = VEGETARIAN MENU ITEMS

= MENU AVAILABLE ON-LINE ONLY

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ROCKY’S IT ALIAN GRILL 715 W . Riverside Dr ., Jeffersonville IN, 282-3844. This longtime favorite earns its popularity with fine pizzas, a good selection of bottled beers and a select choice of Italian-American entrées and a view of the Louisville skyline that’s hard to beat. $ p f ✿ ROMANO’S MACARONI GRILL 401 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 423-9220. The Italian-style menu at this casual, Dallas-based family chain includes appetizers, salads, pastas, veal and desser ts. Chefs entertain while creating wood-fired pizzas. $$ p ✿ SAVINO’S ITALIAN FOOD 8533 Terry Rd., 933-1080. $✿ SPAGHETTI SHOP 4657 Outer Loop, 969-5545, 4510 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 944-5400.

Baked pasta dishes, subs, salads and appetizers ar e prepared while you wait. $ ✿ STEVE-O’S ITALIAN KITCHEN 4205 W. Hwy. 146, LaGrange, KY, 222-0300. Outstanding pizzas and fine family-style Italian-American dishes make this casual eatery just of f I-71 at Buckner well wor th a special trip out from the city. $$ f ✿ TUSCANY ITALIAN RESTAURANT 165 Outer Loop, 363-0308. Adding an appetizing option to a stretch of the South End that hasn’ t been over -served by restaurants, this good-sized stor efront near New Cut Road boasts a Mexican chef who demonstrates an exper t’s hand with hear ty, r ed-sauced ItalianAmerican fare at a price that’s right. $$ h ✿ VOLARE 2300 Frankfor t Ave., 894-4446. The name evokes Sinatra, pasta with tomato sauce and candles in Chianti bottles, but stylish V olare kicks that image up a notch. W ith a combination of Italian standards and monthly menu updates, Chef Josh Moore and host Majid Ghavami have secur ed Volare as the city’s top spot for suave Italian dining. $$$ p f ✿

brings aromatic and spicy Southern Indian far e to the Buechel-Fern Cr eek neighbor hood in the Eastland Shopping Center. $$ ✿ INDIA PALACE 9424 Shelbyville Rd., 394-0490, 408 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy ., Clarksville, IN, 258-000.

This longtime local Indian r estaurant, now with two locations, is a r egular contender for the city’ s top Indian spot. The expansive lunch buffet is well handled and a particularly good value. $ f ✿ KASHMIR INDIAN RESTAURANT 1285 Bardstown Rd., 473-8765. One of the city’ s most popular Indian restaurants, Kashmir is casual, neither posh nor expensive, and it pr oduces an extensive menu of seemingly authentic Indian fare. $$ f ✿ SAGE INDIAN REST AURANT 4123 Oechsli A ve., 896-0025. St. Matthews diners now have a local purveyor of fine ar omatic Nor thern Indian meat and vegetarian cuisine in Sage Indian Restaurant. $$ p ✿ SHALIMAR INDIAN REST AURANT 1820 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 493-8899. Modern and sleek in appearance, modest in price, this r estaurant has become the patriar ch of local Indian r estaurants.

With a substantial lunch buf fet and a full range of dinner items, it has built a loyal clientele. $$ p ✿ SITAR INDIAN CUISINE 1702 Bardstown Rd., 4738889. Named after the Indian stringed musical instrument that Ravi Shankar made famous, Sitar features a full Indian menu and buf fet. It’s the first Louisville property for a tiny new chain with four places in Tennessee and one in Alabama. $$ ✿

AL W ATAN 3713 Klondike Ln., 454-4406. Classic Arabic dishes home-cooked by friendly people in a cozy environment. That’s the r ecipe that makes Al Watan a destination for lovers of fine Middle Eastern fare. $ h ✿

DE LA TORRE’S 1606 Bar dstown Rd., 456-4955.

Authentic Castilian far e includes a majestic paella. but the renewed focus at this Highlands standby is tapas, in such variety that you can have anything on the menu in small-plates form. $$$ ✿

CAFÉ 360 1582 Bardstown Rd., 473-8694. The latest in a long series of eateries in this pleasant Highland’s building offers an eclectic and international menu, with Southern fried catfish and Indian lamb bir yani in immediate juxtaposition. You can get it all, dinerstyle, just about 24/7. $ p f h ✿

LA BODEGA 1604 Bardstown Rd., 456-4955. Nextdoor to the excellent De La T orre’s Spanish restaurant, La Bodega of fers diners the city’ s most authentic Spanish-style tapas bar , featuring the small bites originally invented in the outdoor cafés of Jerez. $$ p f h ✿

CASPIAN GRILL PERSIAN BISTRO 1416 Bardstown Rd., 365-3900. Joining the growing ranks of Louisville’s Persian restaurants, this small Highlands dining room is gaining good wor d-of-mouth for well-pr epared food and cordial service. $ ✿

MOJITO TAPAS RESTAURANT 2231 Holiday Manor Shopping Center , 425-0949. Gifted young chef Fernando Mar tinez (also of Havana Rumba) hits the culinary jackpot with this East End hot spot.

His international array of Spanish inspir ed small plates (“tapas”), imposing paella and libations has won critical acclaim and made Mojito a local favorite. $ p f h ✿ PALERMO VIEJO 1359 Bar dstown Rd., 456-6461.

This eater y’s name may sound Italian, but is, in fact, Louisville’s only source of Argentinian cuisine.

Steaks seared on authentic parrillada charcoal grills are a primar y draw, but ther e’s excellent chicken, seafood and much more. $$ p f ✿

BOMBAY GRILL 216 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy ., 4258892. W ith its br oad array of Indian r egional specialties including the requisite lunch buffet, this spot in The Forum on Hurstbourne is winning praise for its ar omatic flavors and bountiful portions. $$ ✿ DAKSHIN INDIAN RESTAURANT 4742 Bardstown Rd., 491-7412. Owned and operated by the same family that brings us Kashmir Restaurant and Bombay Gr ocery in the Highlands, this addition 78 Winter 2009 www.foodanddine.com

THE F ALAFEL HOUSE 1001 Bar dstown Rd., 4544407. This small Highlands spot is strategically situated to of fer quick and af fordable sustenance along the Bar dstown-Baxter enter tainment strip.

Look for the usual Middle Eastern far e in a casual, quick-service setting. $$ f h ✿ GRAPE LEAF 2217 Frankfor t A ve., 897-1774.

Relatively r ecent r enovations and an expanded menu have elevated the Grape Leaf to destination status, placing it well above the generic Middle Eastern eater y niche. Prices r emain af fordable, while the food and mood now justify a special trip. $$ f ✿ OCEANSIDE RESTAURANT 3707 Klondike Ln., 4543737. This Hikes Point spot, run by a friendly Moroccan couple, offers a variety of fish and seafood dishes (plus chicken wings and other munchies), with a Middle Eastern accent. A couple of Moroccan dinner items are available in the $10 range. $ PITA DELIGHTS 1616 Grinstead Dr., 569-1122. This Near Eastern eater y in the Highlands of fers a splendid mix of gyr os, felafel and other pita-based goodies. $ f ✿ PITA HUT 1613 Bardstown Rd., 409-8484. Pita Hut offers Mediterranean-Middle Eastern favorites, with the addition of a few “American” sandwiches — on fresh pita, of course. $ ✿ RED = ADVERTISER

ROAD TO MOROCCO 308 W. Chestnut St., 376-5855.

You can browse Moroccan arts and crafts and pick up a bottle of Mor occan wine at this little shop in the renovated Henry Clay building downtown, and stay for a light lunch that features Moroccan dishes and a broader range of Middle Eastern fare. $ f e ✿ SAFFRON’S 131 W . Market St., 584-7800. Owner Majid Ghavami has elevated this Persian (Iranian) restaurant far beyond a mer e ethnic eater y. Stylish decor, an intriguingly exotic menu, and a level of careful, pr ofessional ser vice wor thy of a whitetablecloth dining room. $$$ p ✿ SAFIER MEDITERRANEAN DELI 641 S. Fourth St., 585-1125. You can get standar d American far e at this welcoming downtown quick-eats spot, but who’d do that when you can enjoy such appetizing Arabian delights as hummus, mutabal, falafels and the gyros-like (only better) shawarma beef-on-pita sandwich. $ f ✿ SHIRAZ MEDITERRANEAN GRILL 2011 Frankfor t Ave., 891-8854, 2226 Holiday Manor , 426-9954, 153 S. English Station Rd., 244-1341, 201 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 426-3440. Of fering authentic Persian (Iranian) cooking, Shiraz quickly gr ew out of its tiny original location to occupy a bright and colorful stor efront in the new Clifton Lofts complex; now it is expanding into a local mini-chain. In all its locations, Shiraz shines with char -grilled kebabs, fine pitas and lavish br ead. $ ✿ ZAYTUN MEDITERRANEAN GRILL 2286 Bardstown Rd., 365-1788. Fine, freshly prepared seafood is part of the draw in this upper Highlands Middle Eastern eatery—excellent gyros kick it up a notch. $ h ✿

FURLONG’S 9601 Shelbyville Rd., 327-9299. The many fans of this popular eatery , distraught about its abrupt depar ture fr om Clifton, r ejoiced and returned in droves when Furlong’s reopened in the East end, in the lovely old house that was long home to Garrett’s. The menu offers well-conceived Cajun-style far e with a few surprises. W e suggest you don’t miss the mushr oom stuffed with shrimp and crabmeat on the appetizer list. $$$ p f h ✿ J. GUMBO’S 2109 Frankfor t A ve., 896-4046; 947 Baxter Ave., 454-5507; 531 Lyndon Lane, 425-0096; Fourth Street Live, 589-9245; 6661 Dixie Hwy, 9958805; 3115 S. 2nd St., 363-8888; 4005 Summit Plaza Dr., 326-3070, 8603 Citadel W ay, 493-4720.

Former jockey Billy Fox has created a popular minichain ser ving hear ty, af fordable Cajun cuisine. A word of warning: Don’ t order the drunken chicken if you are prone to addictions. $ f JOE’S OK BAYOU 9874 Linn Station Rd., 426-1320, 4308 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 948-2080.

Fine, filling and authentic Louisiana-style far e is the draw at Joe’ s. A lengthy menu and bayou fishing-shack decor showcases authentic Cajun and Creole chow. $$ p SELENA’S A T WILLOW LAKE T AVERN 10609 LaGrange Rd., 245-9004. No longer a neighborhood saloon, the old Willow Lake Tavern is looking great these days as Alan Salmon and his family have transplanted Selena’ s, their longtime T ampa Bay eatery, into this much-r enovated East End venue.

Cajun, Creole and Italian dishes satisfy, and a large, comfortable bar doesn’t diminish the dining room’s family-friendly status. $$ p f h ✿

CACHITO MIO CUBAN CAFÉ 11316 Maple Br ook Rd., 326-3544. This East End spot is primarily a Cuban-accented coffee shop, but you can also get a fine Cuban sandwich, pastries and empanadas.

There’s also a small specialty gr ocery with Cuban and Brazilian goods. $ ✿

p = FULL BAR

f = OUTDOOR DINING

e = LIVE MUSIC

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HAVANA RUMBA 4115 Oechsli A ve., 897-1959. A true taste of Old Havana, this bright, inviting Cuban restaurant is sibling to the equally popular Mojito T apas Restaurant. Bountiful ser vings of Cuban fare as good as any in Key W est or Miami, not to mention a hopping mojito bar , have earned Havana Rumba a place on our shor t list of local favorites. $ p f ✿

BAZO’S FRESH MEXICAN GRILL 4014 Dutchmans Ln., 899-9600. Now moved fr om the hear t of St. Matthews to Dupont Cir cle, Bazo’s Fresh Mexican Grill is an inexpensive, casual spot for fine fish tacos and simple fast-food Mexican far e. $ f ✿ BUENOS DIAS CAFÉ 1703 Charlestown NA Pike, Jeffersonville, IN, 282-2233. $ ✿ CANCUN MEXICAN GRILL 9904 Linn Station Rd., 327-0890. $ e ✿ DON PABLOS MEXICAN KITCHEN 940 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 284-1071. Based in Atlanta, this Mexican-American chain, of fers full bar ser vice and a variety of dishes that range from sizzling fajitas to crisp salads tossed in a fajita shell. $$ p ✿ EL BURRITO DE ORO 1927 Gr eentree Blvd., Clarksville IN, 285-8820. $ ✿ EL CAPORAL 7319 Pr eston Hwy., 969-8243, 2209 Meadow Dr., 473-7840, 1901 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 515 E. Highway 131, Clarksville, IN, 282-7174.

Louisville’s gr owing Mexican-American community has foster ed a happy tr end: excellent, authentic Mexican food. El Caporal bridges the gap between the Latino and Anglo communities. $ p ✿ EL MUNDO 2345 Frankfor t A ve., 899-9930. This crowded, noisy little Crescent Hill storefront offers creative renditions of Mexican r egional specialties that make most diners want to yell “Olé!” The setting may lack the tr endy flair of Rick Bayless’ Frontera Grill in Chicago, but the far e mines a similar vein and does so nearly as well. $ p f ✿

ERNESTO’S 10430 Shelbyville Rd., 244-8889, 6201 Dutchmans Ln., 893-9297, 4632A S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 671-5291. One of the first of the mor e authentic locally-owned Mexican restaurant groups, Ernesto’s r emains consistently r eliable. F rom the crispy home-fried chips to filling Mexican main courses and tasty desserts, it’s a worthy destination for good Mexican food and excellent value in an enjoyable atmosphere. $ p f e ✿ FIESTA TIME MEXICAN GRILL 11320 Maple Brook Dr., 425-9144. $ p ✿ LA BAMBA 1237 Bardstown Rd., 451-1418. La Bamba boasts of its “burritos as big as your head.” It may be Louisville’s most startling case of an eater y that is more than it appears to be, and that goes for both quality and quantity. Franchised and fast-foodish, it pleasantly surprises with genuine Mexican far e and Latino flair. $ h ✿ LA HERRADURA 615 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville, IN., 280-8650. Is it possible to enjoy truly a uthentic tacqueria cuisine when the management speaks mostly Spanish and you speak only English?

These friendly folks make it simple: a handy bilingual menu and a smiling staf f make you feel at home.$ ✿ LA MONARCA 6501 Shepherdsville Rd., 969-7938. $ ✿ LA PERLA DEL P ACIFICO 2840 Goose Cr eek Rd., 339-7670. You may want to bring a Spanish phrase book to this East End spot, wher e English is sometimes tentative. It’ s wor th the ef fort though, for excellent authentic Mexican seafood and fish dishes that go well beyond taqueria status. $$ ✿ LA PERLA DEL PACIFICO 4906 Preston Hwy., 9694445. Although it shar es a name — and an authentic Mexican bill of far e with plenty of seafood and fish — with an East End r estaurant, this South End spot is under separate ownership. $ ✿

LA ROSITA MEXICAN GRILL 1515 E. Market St., New Albany, IN, 944-3620, 113 Grant Line Ctr ., 948-7967. Housed in an historic stor efront, this Mexican r estaurant br eaks fr om the pack by presenting traditional Mexican dishes not found elsewhere. The Grant Line spot provides quick but fine taqueria fare. $ f ✿ LA ROSIT A T AQUERIA 1404 Blackiston Mill Rd., Clarksville, IN, 284-1362. $ LA TAPATIA RESTAURANT 8106 Preston Hwy., 9619153. One of the most authentic ethnic Mexican restaurants in Louisville, this little storefront offers memorable tacos and burritos and mor e. $ p ✿ LAS GORDITAS 4756 Bardstown Rd., 492-0112. As Louisville’s small but thriving Latino community grows, it’ s now possible to enjoy an authentic Mexico City-style dining experience at this taco and gor dita wagon that r olls up in the Eastland Shopping Center every Friday thr ough Monday evening. Family owners and chefs Pat and Esperanza Costas and Ofelia Or tiz are completely bilingual, and as friendly as can be. $ f ✿ LOLITA’S TACOS 4222 Poplar Level Rd., 459-4356.

This tiny place may look like a fast-food joint, but the food is about as authentic Mexican as you’ll find. Crisp or soft tacos and burritos the size of paper-towel r olls turn a meal her e into a r eal bargain. $ f ✿ LOS AZTECAS 530 W. Main St., 561-8535, 1107 Herr Ln., 426-3994, 9207 U.S. Hwy . 42, 228-2450.

Authentic Mexican cuisine has become a viable option in Louisville, thanks to a gr owing immigrant community . W ith fr esh bar and blender offerings, cr eative appetizers and comfor table seating, Los Aztecas is one of the best, with tasty Mexican dishes good enough to lur e us back again and again. $ p ✿

EL NOP AL (10 Locations) These locally owned restaurants have become a gr owing mini-chain, winning popularity on the basis of delicious, authentic and inexpensive Mexican far e in comfortable surroundings. $ p f ✿ EL NOPALITO 4028 Taylorsville Rd., 458-7278, 6300 Bardstown Rd., 231-4249, 2319 Br ownsboro Rd., 893-9880. This modest little eater y used to be a Taco Bell, but you’ll never find comidas like this at the Bell! Run by a family fr om Mexico, it’ s truly authentic and delicious. $ p f ✿ EL REY MEXICAN REST AURANT 2918 Hikes Ln., 454-6520. Although it’ s mor e Mexican-American than har d-core ethnic Mexican, El Rey earns our recommendation for tasty far e, cordial service in a pleasant fast-Mexican-food envir onment, and affordable prices. $ f ✿ EL RODEO MEXICAN REST AURANT 9070 Dixie Hwy., 995-8722. At El Rodeo, you’ll find a blend of Tex-Mex and other Latin American classics fr om salty margaritas to sweet sopapillas. $$ ✿ EL T ARASCO 5425 New Cut Rd., 368-5628, 110 Fairfax Ave., 895-8010, 9901 LaGrange Rd., 3269373, 9606 T aylorsville Rd., 297-8003. Add El Tarasco to the happy new genr e of restaurants run

by Latinos and of fering authentic Mexican food and atmosphere, but that r each out to Anglos and make it easy to enjoy a South-of-the-Bor der culinary adventure without compromise. $ p ✿ EL TORO MEXICAN REST AURANT 1810 Hurstbourne Parkway, 491-7272, 10602 Shelbyville Rd., 489-3839. One of the top Mexican restaurants in the metro, El Toro earns our recommendation for food, service and envir onment. Tex-Mex dishes ar e fine, but save r oom for the authentic Mexican seafood specialties. $ p f ✿

h = LATE NIGHT

✿ = VEGETARIAN MENU ITEMS

= MENU AVAILABLE ON-LINE ONLY

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MAYAN CAFÉ 813 E. Market St., 566-0651. Chef Bruce Ucán earned four -star praise for years with his creative take on Mayan (Yucatan/Guatemala) cuisine at Mayan Gypsy. He carries on this winning tradition with similar inspiring cuisine her e. $$ ✿ MEXICAN FIEST A 5414 Bar dstown Rd., 762-0840, 4507 Bardstown Rd., 491-2922 $ ✿ MEXICANO 6911 Shepher dsville Rd., 962-8526.

Traditional Mexican fare from the Ramirez family. $ ✿ MEXICO TIPICO REST AURANT 6517 Dixie Hwy ., 933-9523, 12401 Shelbyville Rd., 253-9828. One of the r egion’s first authentic Mexican eateries, Mexico T ipico has built a loyal following in for good Mexican food and friendly , fully bilingual service; now it r eaches the East End with a brandnew property in the Middletown area. $ p e ✿ MY PATRIA 808 Lyndon Ln., 339-9420. $ ✿

TACQUERIA LA MEXICANA 6201 Pr eston Hwy ., 969-4449. The tacos are fine at this tiny storefront.

This is seriously ethnic stuf f, but Anglos ar e thoroughly welcome, the staff is bilingual, and they will happily pr ovide a menu with all the English translations written in. $ ✿

MOE’S SOUTHWEST GRILL 2001 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-1800, 1001 Br eckinridge Ln., 8936637, 12001 Shelbyville Rd., 245-6250, 1020 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, (812) 288-6637, 9310 Cedar Center W ay, 614-7722. The food may be mor e fast-food Mexican-American than authentic South-of-the-Border fare, but it is freshly made fr om quality ingr edients and comes in oversize portions, and that’s not a bad thing. $ ✿

PUERTO V ALLARTA 4214 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 945-3588, 125 Quar termaster Ct., Jeffersonville, IN, 288-2022. $$ p ✿

HEINE BROTHERS COFFEE 2714 Frankfor t A ve., 899-5551, 1295 Longest A ve., 456-5108, 2200 Bardstown Rd., 515-0380, 118 Chenoweth Ln., 893-5103, 1449 Bar dstown Rd., 454-5212, 4123 Shelbyville Rd., 894-9413. Spar tan, friendly and affordable, with good coffee r oasted on the premises and a shor t list of pastries, desserts and panini sandwiches, Heine Br os. has earned its outstanding local reputation. $ f e HIGHLAND COFFEE CO. 1140 Bardstown Rd., 4514545. Of fering two ways to get wir ed, this cozy neighborhood coffee shop also functions as one of Louisville’s top Internet cafés, wher e you can enjoy a hot cappuccino while you sur f the ’net in a WiFi hot spot. Funky Seattle-style ambience is a plus. $ f

SANTA FE GRILL 3000 S. Third St., 634-3722. This tiny eater y in a centur y-old r ed-brick South End storefront near Chur chill Downs never fails to satisfy with genuine Mexican tacos and other simple fare at prices that will leave you plenty of change for an exacta bet at the races. $ ✿

THE HOBKNOBB ROASTING CO. 3700 Paoli Pike, Floyds Knobs, IN, 923-1458. HobKnobb of fers fresh hot cof fee, espr esso drinks and fr esh baked pastries, cakes and cookies. $ f

SEÑOR IGUANA’S 1415 Br oadway St., Clarksville, IN, 280-8555, 3105 S. Second St., 368-0876. These two Mexican-American eateries — the Indiana venue is in the former Jerry’s — are known for their hearty, well-prepared Mexican food, and plenty of it, in a casually laid-back, comfor table spor ts-bar atmosphere. $ p f ✿

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COFFEE CROSSING 4212 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 981-2633. $

DERBY CITY ESPRESSO 331 E. Market St., 4420523. A highlight in Louisville’ s r oster of serious coffee shops, Derby City featur es quality cof fee from several ar tisanal r oasters, plus fine tea, pastries, and now craft beers including a cof feebourbon flavored Stout. $ f e ✿

RUBEN’S MEXICAN REST AURANT 1370 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN. 258-0417. $$ p ✿

TACO TICO 5925 Terry Rd., 449-9888. Founded in Wichita in 1962, the same year as T aco Bell was born in Southern California, The T aco Tico chain has been gone fr om Louisville for mor e than a decade. Its happy r eturn has been drawing remarkable crowds out to this Southwest Louisville location. $ ✿

CAFFE CLASSICO 2144 Frankfort Ave., 894-9689. $

DAY’S ESPRESSO AND COFFEE BAR 1420 Bardstown Rd., 456-1170. Dark and cozy , with an old-fashioned feeling, Day’ s has ever ything you would expect in a college-neighbor hood cof fee shop except a college near by. $ f

ROSTICERIA LUNA 5213B Preston Hwy., 962-8898.

Tiny and cluttered and very friendly, this little spot on Pr eston looks like another tacqueria but the specialty, Mexican-style roasted chicken, takes it to another level, juicy and succulent and r oasted golden br own. Chicken simply doesn’ t get any better than this. $ ✿

TACO BUENO 2909 Hwy. 62 Jef fersonville IN, 2844073, 2350 Shane Dr ., 493-2008. This gr owing Texas-based chain, a competitor to Taco Bell, now has two locations in the Louisville metr o. Early reports declare it “better than the Bell.” $ f ✿

BEAN STREET CAFÉ 101 Lafollette Station, Floyds Knobs, IN, 923-1404. Bean Str eet intr oduced the Sunny Side to the joys of serious espr esso. Like all good coffee shops, they’re not just an eater y, but a cultural hangout. $ f

COFFEE POT CAFÉ 234 E. Gray St. (Medical Tower South), 584-5282 $ f ✿

QDOBA MEXICAN GRILL 1500 Bar dstown Rd., 454-3380, 970 Breckinridge Ln., 721-8100, 4059 Summit Plaza Drive, 429-5151, 100 Daventr y Ln., 412-6202, 2730 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy ., 4939606, 3021 Poplar Level Rd., 637-5405, 4302 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 941-9654, 1321 Herr Ln., 618-3622, 11910 Standifor d Plaza Dr ., 736-6198. This chain operation extends fr om Louisville to Frankfor t and Lexington. Fastfoodish in style, Qdoba edges out its competitors on the basis of variety and inter esting salsas, plus sizable portions at a price you can af ford. $ f ✿

SOL AZTECAS 2427 Bar dstown Road, 459-7776, 2350 Frankfort Ave., 895-3333. Saul Gar cia, who’s known for the local chain of Los Aztecas eateries, has star ted this new chain, raising the bar with a broader menu. His many Los Aztecas fans will find familiar dishes, along with some pleasant surprises. $ph✿

A.J.’S COFFEE & CREAM 9280 IN 64, Georgetown, IN, 951-1715. Despite the name, the specialty at this Southern Indiana r oadside spot is excellent, authentic Gr eek gyr os. Ther e’s no indoor dining, but plenty of picnic tables out fr ont; or you can do carryout. Another happy surprise: home made potato chips! $ f ✿

ON THE BORDER 10601 Fischer Park Dr ., 4122461. A contemporary spin on traditional favorites offers a range of delights fr om the Ultimate Fajita to margaritas in a setting that emulates Old Mexico décor. $$ p f ✿ SALSARITA’S FRESH CANTINA 285 N. Hubbards Ln., 897-5323. Another entry in the hot “Fr esh Mexican” niche that featur es gigantic burritos made to order. Its colorful free-standing building houses a sit-in r estaurant and an inviting bar . $

pf✿ TUMBLEWEED SOUTHWEST GRILL (17 locations).

Tumbleweed started as a humble Mexican restaurant in New Albany and eventually came to dominate Louisville’s Tex-Mex niche with colossal margaritas, gigantic burritos and spicy chili con queso. Southwestern far e adds steaks and grilled far e to the familiar Tex-Mex with a formula that continues to draw diners in dr oves, but the ’Weed doesn’t stray far from its roots. $$ p f h ✿

RED = ADVERTISER

JAVA BREWING COMP ANY 9561B U.S. Hwy . 42, 292-2710, 516 W . Main St., 568-6339, 135 S. English Station Rd., 489-5677, Four th Street Live, 561-2041, 2309 Frankfor t A ve., 894-8060. These casual spots boasts the ambience of a friendly oldfashioned book shop, with comfor table seating, a good selection of pastries, and quality cof fee from Seattle. $ JOE MUGGS 994 Br eckenridge Ln. (Books-aMillion), 894-8606, 4300 T owne Center Dr ., 4262252. $ f ✿ LA VIDA JA VA COFFEE CO. 1301 Herr Ln., 4129393. La V ida Java of fers espr esso drinks and pastries in this welcoming spot in the W estport Village shopping center. $ f OLD LOUISVILLE COFFEE HOUSE 1489 S. Fourth St., 635-6660. $ f ✿ PERKFECTION 359 Spring St., Jef fersonville, IN, 218-0611. $ e RAY’S MONKEY HOUSE 1578 Bardstown Rd., 4594373. A very nice fit with its crunchy-granola Highlands neighborhood, this “progressive coffee shop and gathering place” is consciously child-friendly .

p = FULL BAR

f = OUTDOOR DINING

e = LIVE MUSIC

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Look for quality or ganic cof fee r oasted on the premises and vegetarian/vegan snacks. $ f e ✿ RIVER CITY COFFEE CAFÉ 2900 Brownsboro Rd., 618-2308. Don’t let the wor d “coffee” in the name fool you: This Cr escent Hill spot isn’ t just a cof fee shop. You can enjoy breakfast and lunch, including a good array of soups, salads, sandwiches and burgers. $ f ✿

CAKE FLOUR 909 E. Market St., 719-0172. This tiny, take-out-only spot is building a tr emendous buzz.

A lar ge selection of baked goods ar e made with organic flour and sugar . W e walked in, took a sample of brownie so spectacular that it made our knees buckle, and departed with a 10-pound bag of goodies. Cake Flour is to pastry as Louisville’s Blue Dog is to artisan bread: Top tier. $ f ✿

SISTER BEAN’S 4956 Manslick Rd., 364-0082. $ f ✿

COCO’S BAKERY 6915 Southside Drive, 368-9280. $

STARBUCKS COFFEE (35 locations) $ f SUNERGOS COFFEE & MICRO-ROASTER Y 2122 S. Preston St., 634-1243. Matthew Huested and Brian Miller used to r oast their own cof fee beans as a hobby. Their friends said they did it so well, they should turn pr o — the r esult is Suner gos Cof fee, another in the gr owing cadr e of espr esso bars in Louisville’s Germantown neighborhood. $ ✿

COCO’S CHOCOLATE CAFÉ 1759 Bar dstown Rd., 454-9810. Stylish, ar tisanal chocolates and baked goods made on the pr emises make this tiny Highlands spot a stylish place to stop and linger over for a dessert and a cup of cof fee. $ f

TRAILSIDE CAFÉ 1321 Herr Ln., 423-1545 $

ADRIENNE & CO. BAKER Y CAFÉ 129 W. Cour t Ave., Jef fersonville, IN, 282-2665. If you need something for your sweet tooth and won’ t be denied, count yourself lucky if the craving strikes when you’re in the vicinity of this cozy Southern Indiana spot, with its good selection of homemade cakes and treats. $ f ✿ THE BAKER Y 3100 Bar dstown Rd., 452-1210. Not just a fine baker y but a place wher e bakers learn their business, this excellent establishment is par t of the culinar y program at Sullivan University . It’s hard to beat the quality breads and pastries offered here to eat in or carry out. $ ✿ BREADWORKS 3628 Br ownsboro Rd., 893-3200, 2420 Lime Kiln Ln., 326-0300, 2204 Dundee Rd., 452-1510, 11800 Shelbyville Rd., 254-2885. $ ✿

h = LATE NIGHT

THE CUPCAKE SHOPPE 3701 Lexington Rd., 8992970. You won’ t need thr ee guesses to name the specialty at this little St. Matthews baker y, which has gained instant popularity for its wide variety of moist, tender cupcakes, always made in house. $✿ THE DESSERT GALLERY 9305 New LaGrange Rd., 326-0700. Y ou’ll find just about anything you could want in the way of a desser t at this East End shopping center storefront, from cakes to brownies and cookies, and it’ s all hand-made fr om natural ingredients. $ DESSERTS BY HELEN 2210 Bar dstown Rd., 4517151, 9219 U.S. Hwy . 42, 228-8959. Helen Friedman has earned a loyal clientele since the 1970s with her elegant cakes, tempting pies and tortes and designer cookies. $ HEITZMAN TRADITIONAL BAKERY & DELI 9426 Shelbyville Rd., 426-7736, 428 W. Market St., 5842437. The Heitzman family has been baking in the Louisville ar ea since your gr eat-aunt was a girl ordering dinner r olls. Made fr esh daily, the pies, cakes, cookies and specialty pastries pr ovide tasty nostalgia for all who visit. $ ✿

✿ = VEGETARIAN MENU ITEMS

= MENU AVAILABLE ON-LINE ONLY

MY FAVORITE MUFFIN 9800 Shelbyville Rd., 4269645. All the muf fins are made right in the stor e, including such popular choices as the Cinnamon Crumb and the Turtle Muffin. $ NORD’S BAKERY 2118 S. Preston St., 634-0931. This old-school, family-owned baker y on the edge of Germantown has a devoted following, drawn by divine Danish, donuts, and gr eat cof fee fr om the nearby Sunergos micro-roastery — and if you’r e a sucker for over -the-top excess, tr y the caramel donut topped with — yes, it’s true, bacon. $ THE PIE PANTRY 9208 Dixie Hwy., 384-0743. Lunch is served at this Southwest Louisville eatery but the main focus — and the strongest reason to drive out that way — is the dozens of varieties of homemade pies. Portions are large and the selection extensive. $f✿ PLEHN’S BAKERY 3940 Shelbyville Rd., 896-4438. A neighborhood institution, this baker y is as busy as it is nostalgic. Enjoy the hometown soda fountain with ice cr eam while you wait for your handdecorated birthday cake, breakfast rolls or colorful cookies to be boxed. $ ✿ SMALL TIMES BAKERY 2956 Richland Ave., 451-5499.

An appetizing selection of br eads, cakes, cookies, even bagels is attracting hungry supplicants fr om around the r egion to this new baker y in Hikes Point. $ THE SWEET TOOTH 3110 Frankfort Ave., 895-4554.

You’ll find an enticing collection of cakes, pies and other homemade goodies, plus excellent cof fee and a selection of loose-leaf teas, in this cozy little spot. $ ✿

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MAP INDEX

MAP INDEX

MAP # DIRECTION PAGE # DOWNTOWN 84 1 Downtown Louisville NEAR EAST 85 2 Highlands – Crescent Hill EAST 86 3 St. Matthews SOUTH EAST 87 4 Hikes Point – Buechel EAST 88 5 Hurstbourne N. – Lyndon SOUTH EAST 89 6 Hurstbourne S. – Jeffersontown NORTH EAST 90 7 River Rd. – Brownsboro Rd. NORTH EAST 90 8 Westport Rd. FAR EAST 91 9 Middletown NORTH EAST 91 10 Prospect SOUTH EAST 91 11 Fern Creek SOUTH 92 12 Airport – Okolona SOUTH WEST 93 13 Shively – Pleasure Ridge Park INDIANA 94 14 New Albany – Floyds Knobs INDIANA 95 15 Clarksville INDIANA 95 16 Jeffersonville

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Bardstown Road 502.456.1702

Downtown

502-582-1995

Hurstbourne 502.426.0627

Prospect

502.292.2585

Jeffersonville 812.218.1995

(Sheraton Riverside Hotel) www.bristolbarandgrille.com www.foodanddine.com Winter 2009 83

MAP INDEX

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DOWNTOWN > DOWNTOWN

MAP • 1

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MAP • 2

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NEAR EAST > HIGHLANDS/CRESCENT HILL

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EAST > ST. MATTHEWS

MAP • 3

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MAP • 4

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SOUTH EAST > HIKES POINT/BUECHEL

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EAST > HURSTBOURNE N./LYNDON

MAP • 5

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MAP • 6

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SOUTH EAST > HURSTBOURNE S./JEFFERSONTOWN

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MAP

7 > NORTH EAST > RIVER RD./BROWNSBORO RD. MAP

8 > NORTH EAST > WESTPORT ROAD

MAPS • 7 • 8

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MAP

11 > SOUTH EAST > FERN CREEK

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SOUTH > AIRPORT/OKALONA

MAP • 12

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MAP • 13

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SOUTH WEST > SHIVELY/PLEASURE RIDGE PARK

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INDIANA > NEW ALBANY/FLOYDS KNOBS

MAP • 14

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MAP

15 > INDIANA > CLARKSVILLE

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And now the legend has come to Southern Indiana. Offering some of the country’s finest dining.

Like our famous Jack Binion’s Steak House featuring incredible steaks, buttery lobster tails, and truly decadent desserts. It’s all part of the legendary indulgence you’ll only find at Horseshoe. Just 20 minutes from Downtown Louisville off I-64. 1-866-676-SHOE. www.horseshoe.com.

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hungry? like the wolf?

louisville

424 south 4th street 502-568-2202 • hardrock.com the official food of rock

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