Fall 2008 (Vol. 22)

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FALL 2008 | NOV-DEC-JAN

holiday issue libations seasonal beers

the gift of wine urban bourbon trail

plus

900

restaurant listings with reviews & maps

profiles

napa|buck’s|meridian café|mr. z’s

let’s party

holiday entertaining made easy www.foodanddine.com

$ 4 . 9 9 U. S .

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FALL 2008 PUBLISHER JOHN CARLOS WHITE EDITOR-IN-CHIEF ROBIN GARR VICE PRESIDENT PAUL M. SMITH COLUMNISTS ROGER A. BAYLOR JAY FORMAN RON JOHNSON LORI LAIRD TIM LAIRD DAVID LANGE JERRY SLATER CONTRIBUTING WRITERS MARY W. JOHNSON MICHAEL L. JONES CONTRIBUTING CHEFS MAX KLOPFER JIM QUINTER CHIEF RESTAURANT CRITIC ROBIN GARR CHIEF PHOTOGRAPHER DAN DRY MAGAZINE DESIGN & LAYOUT JOHN CARLOS WHITE GRAPHIC DESIGN KATHY KULWICKI STEFAN TAMBURRO COPY EDITORS MARY W. JOHNSON PAUL NAJJAR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES ANNETTE B. WHITE DISTRIBUTION / FACT CHECKING PAUL NAJJAR IN FOND MEMORY OF OUR DEAR FRIEND DANIEL F. BOYLE

Food & Dining Magazine ® is published quarterly by Louisville Dining Magazine, Inc. P.O. Box 665, Louisville KY 40201 The publisher and advertisers are not responsible or liable for misprints, typographical errors or misinformation.

The opinions expressed herein are those of the writ ers and do not necessarily reflect the opinion of the publisher. +Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited.

All rights reserved.

___________________________________

Annual Subscription rate $18.

Submit subscription requests to: Food & Dining Magazine ® P.O. Box 665, Louisville KY 40201, or call (502) 493-5511 ext. 540 or subscribe online at

www.foodanddine.com For Advertising information call (502) 493-5511 ext. 550 ON THE COVER Poached pears in red wine — an elegant holiday classic from our own party experts Tim and Lori Laird.

(Feature story, page 18) 4

Fall 2008

www.foodanddine.com

Photo by Dan Dry

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contents

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FALL 2008

FEATURE

28

Helping hands make Irish eyes smile

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Local restaurateur Tom O’Shea and his three Irish-themed restaurants make it their mission to support local charities.

PROFILES Napa River Grill: A consistently popular mainstay for years, Napa River Grill’s impressive new digs move it up to a new level.

Buck’s: After two decades, Buck’s continues to satisfy with old-style Southern charm and well-crafted dishes.

Meridian Cafe: A pro and a novice get together to create the perfect recipe for a classic cafe.

Mr. Z’s Kitchen: It may not resemble a fine-dining restaurant, but Mr. Z’s delivers divine comfort food.

38 42 46 50

COLUMNS

42

NEWS AND NOTES

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COMINGS & GOINGS This issue’s summary of changes on the local restaurant scene, detailing openings, closings, moves and more.

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HUMOR Deep fryers aren’t just for turkeys anymore Our resident humorist takes a trip to deep-fried heaven.

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TRAVEL ROAD TRIP: Pittsburgh This blue-collar town delivers the goods on full-flavored cuisine.

LIQUIDS

16 CORK 101: The gift of wine 26 A gift of wine might be just the thing for the coming holiday season.

TEA: Bubble tea 34 SPIRITS: Urban Bourbon Trail

Mixologist Jerry Slater travels Louisville’s Urban Bourbon Trail.

Coffee and tea expert David Lange takes a look at a curious Asian import quietly gaining popularity.

38

HIP HOPS: Seasonal brews

36

Thanksgiving, Christmas and the holidays inspire hearty brews.

RECIPES EASY ENTERTAINING A guide to a simple yet elegant holiday party from start to finish.

COOKING CLASS: Holiday baked goodies

18 52

Sullivan University chefs share recipes for four seasonal desserts.

RESTAURANT GUIDE

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DINING GUIDE

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Our comprehensive listing of over 900 area restaurants complete with reviews. Now with more user-friendly features.

MAPS

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Find all of the restaurants in our Dining Guide on 16 area maps. www.foodanddine.com Fall 2008

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news and notes S U B S C R I B E TO FOOD & DINING Can’t wait to see what’s in the next issue of Food & Dining? Why not subscribe.

Sign up for one year for $18, and we’ll give you four quarterly issues and pay you back in full with $18 in restaurant gift certificates.

Better still, take two years for $26. We’ll send you eight issues and send you $36 worth of gift certificates.

Subscribe online at: www.foodanddine.com or call (502) 493-5511 x550.

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Fall 2008

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comings

& goings

A spate of high-profile restaurant closings, particularly the destination restaurants Primo on East Main Street and Park Place and Browning’s in Slugger Field, the luxurious but short-lived Caffe Perusa in Stony Brook, and the highly acclaimed Seviche’s second outpost on Goose Creek, prompted fears of massive recessionary cutbacks in the local dining industry this quarter. Those fears have been stoked to some extent by overheated media reports.

While it’s certainly true that difficult economic times are challenging to the restaurant industry, the actual numbers tell a somewhat less frightening tale: Twenty restaurants opened in the past quarter or are set to open soon, plus six more properties opened by existing restaurants or chains.

This total of 26 new dining establishments managed to offset the sad loss of 24 other restaurant properties and two chains closing individual locations.

No one is happy about the current economic turmoil, and we suggest everyone in the community do their part by supporting our local restaurants with patronage and dollars. Nevertheless, the story of the past quarter, taken as a whole, contains plenty of hope along with some sad stories. Several Bardstown and Frankfort Avenue landmarks in particular appear to be going strong: Management at Asiatique, for example, says traffic has turned heavy since around Oct. 10. We encourage all of you who enjoy dining out and who value Louisville’s unique restaurant community to show your support.

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OPENINGS Two of the biggest new entries, coming soon, are Z’s Fusion and 732 Social: Z’s Fusion, to open before Christmas in the former Kunz’s at 115 South Fourth Street, joins Mehrzad Sharbaiani of Z’s Oyster Bar and Steakhouse, and Dallas McGarity, former chef at Volare, as they create a luxury restaurant of creativity and elegance.

732 Social, opening this autumn at 732 East Market Street, is the project of brothers Steven and Michael Ton, of Basa Modern Vietnamese. It will be small, intimate and elegant, featuring inventive small plates.

In good news for fans of the old Furlong’s, which took its down-home Cajun cookery out of Clifton a couple of years ago, it’s coming back to the old, stone suburban building at 9601 Shelbyville Road that had long housed Garrett’s and, briefly, Frank’s Steakhouse.

Thai Orchids has opened at 9114 Taylorsville Road in Stony Brook, replacing Sala Thai, which has consolidated its operations in the old City Wok downtown at 526 West Main Street.

Out in the East End, Selena’s is drawing favorable reviews for its mix of Cajun, Creole and Italian fare in the attractively renovated old buildings at 10609 LaGrange Road that once housed Willow Lake Tavern.

Speaking of Italian, Marcello’s, run by one of the principals of the last iteration of Lentini’s and its short-lived DaVinci restaurant, plans to open a new spot in the former home of Diamante, 2280 Bardstown Road.

In the same Highlands building, 2286 Bardstown Road, watch for Zaytun Mediterranean Grill — related by family to Sharom’s Restaurant on Outer Loop — to open its Middle Easternaccented seafood and gyros shop soon.

Sage Indian Restaurant, featuring the aromatic cuisines of Northern India, has replaced Royal India at 4123 Oechsli Avenue.

Among other locally owned independent eateries, Butcher’s Best Meats & Deli, 9521C U.S. 42 in Prospect, is drawing raves for its old-fashioned butcher shop and skilled service.

If you like desserts, cakes and similar goodies, you’ll love the new Cupcake Shoppe at 3701 Lexington Road, Lil’ Loafers Bakery at 8522 Preston Highway, and Lylia’s Encore (operated by Ladyfingers Catering) at 501 West Main Street.

Restaurateur Jeff Jarfi further expands his galaxy of dining rooms by opening the doors of Fern Creek’s Glenmary Country Club to the public with Jarfi’s at Glenmary, 10200 Glenmary Farm Drive.

Oriental Express, formerly Arirang, has moved its Middletown location to 12567 Shelbyville Road and now emphasizes Chinese cuisine in place of its former triple focus on Chinese, Korean and Japanese.

John Schnatter, who built Papa John’s Pizza from a single shop to an international empire, now takes on a more upscale chain, launching Louisville’s first Calistoga Artisan Sandwiches at 4000 Dutchmans Lane and 401 East Chestnut Street.

Nancy’s Bagel Box, operated by the same folks who have Nancy’s Bagel Grounds in Clifton, is now open at 651 South Fourth Street.

At Fourth Street Live, Ri Ra Irish Pub, a classy chain that dresses up its spots with real Irish pub memorabilia, is open at 427 South Fourth Street; and Wet Willie’s (not to be confused with

Mehrzad Sharbaiani of Z’s Fusion the similarly named Wet Willy’s formerly on Baxter Avenue) becomes part of the new Stand Up Live, 441 South Fourth Street.

The following existing properties added new locations: Panera Bread, 400 West Market Street; Beef O’Brady’s, 1450 Veterans Parkway in Clarksville; Senor Iguana’s, 3105 South Second Street, and Sol Aztecas in the former home of Sweet Peas Southern, 2350 Frankfort Avenue.

CLOSINGS As mentioned, the headline closings that brought out television crews looking for a recessionary news peg, were Park Place on Main and Browning’s in Slugger Field, and Bim Deitrich’s Primo, 445 East Market Street.These high-end, luxury spots were taking a risk as urban pioneers in an emerging neighborhood.

Although the declining economy cer tainly didn’t help, these establishments were on an uphill road from the beginning, and their loss can’t be blamed entirely on the recession. Chef Anthony Lamas cited the economy on the closing of Seviche A Latin Bistro, 2929 Goose Creek Road, although there was some evidence that its suburban location amid a strip of chains didn’t help it build critical mass.

Much the same can be said of Caffe Perusa, 9200 Taylorsville Road, which was well capitalized but not well advertised; hard to find and quite expensive. Perhaps not the best economic fit for its Jeffersontown location, its owners gave up the ghost early. www.foodanddine.com Fall 2008

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Ditto for Bountiful Bread, in Westport Village at 1311 Herr Lane, which failed to make its case as an alternative to the ubiquitous Panera Bread chain.

Nio’s, 917 Baxter Avenue, after making one more effort to reinvent itself early this year, sputtered quietly to a close.

Two Jeffersontown-area purveyors of excellent NYC-style pizza — Slice of NY at 9910 Linn Station Road and Hero’s Pizza at 10509 Watterson Trail, both closed abruptly within days of each other.

More closings, mostly of smaller, independently owned eateries, are listed alphabetically: China Sea Buffet, 12689 Shelbyville Road; City Wok, 526 West Main Street (which gave way to the new Sala Thai); Cuba Libre, 702 Highlander Point, Floyds Knobs, Indiana; Djuli, 5312 South Third Street; Dmitri’s Deli, 521 South Third Street; Dublin’s Cellar, 942 Baxter Avenue; Juke Box, Highlander Point Shopping Center, Floyds Knobs, Indiana; King Buffet, 1801 Priority Way; Lucky House Buffet, 4030 Taylorsville Road; Market on Market, 445 East Market Street; Omar’s Gyro, 969 Baxter Avenue; Sports Page Grill, 3701 Hopewell Road; Tequila Mexican Restaurant, 7803 Old Third Street Road, and Theater Square Deli, 22 Theater Square.

Chains closing one location included Los Aztecas, 9606 Taylorsville Road, which gave way to an El Tarasco at that location; and Rocky’s Italian Grill, 10206 Westport Road, converted to a Buckhead Mountain Grill. F&D We regret any omissions, but invite the restaurant community to keep us informed. Send information

by E-mail to publisher@foodanddine.com.

Primo’s Bim Deitrich

www.foodanddine.com Fall 2008

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BY JAY FORMAN

Deep Fryers – Not Just for Turkeys Anymore Our resident humorist takes us on a trip t o deep-fried heaven

I

In New Orleans lives a beast of a sandwich called a “Muffuletta.” Made up of layers of arcane Italian cold cuts and cheeses, it comes dressed with a marinated slaw of chopped olives, pickled cauliflower, carrots and garlic, all piled on a Frisbee-sized loaf of Sicilian bread. Clearly a sandwich of this magnitude needs nothing additional to make its presence felt. And that’s why I decided to deepfry one.

Let me back up a bit — I was on assignment, writing a magazine piece about “Extreme Sandwiches.” I’d heard rumors about places that fried this puppy, and I anticipated this would be my “tent-pole” sandwich for the article. Along with my running partner Teddy, a doctor fortuitously specializing in disorders of the digestive tract, we searched high and low for this cardiovascular menace. It was all in vain — every lead we followed came to the same dead end: a look of initial shock then revulsion from the waitress when we asked it they served this. But then the answer came to us in a vision of shimmering oil: We would do this ourselves.

We began R&D with the “Deep-Fried Snickers Principle,” which states that the trial-size version of a candy bar is preferable to the full-size version for purposes of frying. This involves lots of complicated reasons invoking ratios of surface area to volume, etc., and I believe a few of the Laws of Thermodynamics with a possible side of String Theory.We purchased a dozen mini-muffulettas from a local deli. (Individual snack-size versions make for popular hors d’oeuvres.) These, we reasoned, would make for tastier and more manageable treats. A few gallons of peanut oil and a propane tank later, we were on our way.

It was at this point that I made a tactical mistake that would wreak havoc on my cholesterol levels — I mentioned what we were doing to a Mr. Tariq Hanna, a friend and pastry chef. You’ve probably seen him competing on the Food Network, where his obvious winning effor ts are systematically blackballed by a 12 Fall 2008 www.foodanddine.com

shadowy cabal of Tariqhating judges, sort of like Freemasons who hate pastry. Or, at least, hate Tariq.

“I want in,” Tariq said when I mentioned what we were doing.

“Besides, you’ll need help.”

“We’re deep-frying sandwiches,” I replied.

“What kind of help could we possibly need?”

“I’m English. I know from frying. It is in the blood. You are an amateur. You could get hurt or, worse, screw up the food.”

I agreed to this, little knowing what Tariq’s inclusion would portend. The English, of course, are genetically predisposed to frying anything that stops moving long enough to net and batter. Like argyle socks and tweed bathing suits, an appreciation for such things flows in their blood. Coupled with this,Tariq’s knowledge of cutting-edge English batter technologies and easy access to topshelf pastry combined in a perfect storm of no-holds-barred deepfried madness. Here follows a partial list of the items Tariq brought to the game on the day of the frying:

Chocolate cupcakes Truffles Pates de fruit Payday candy bars Peeps French macaroons Ding Dongs Individual mini-cheesecakes Tortillas Squeeze bottles with raspberry sauce, for finishing the plates “What are the tortillas for?” I asked.

“For wrapping up the cheesecakes.

Duh,” he replied, and then got to work.

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Using Abita beer, rice flour and baking soda, Tariq whipped up a series of batters complementing Teddy’s and my own feeble effor ts. Soon the oil shimmered at 350 degrees, and we lowered the first minimuffuletta down in the basket, where it danced lightly in the golden oil. Two minutes later the sandwich emerged, golden brown on the outside. When sliced in half the cheese was just slightly melted, and the exterior was nice and crisp. The taste: between a donut and a deep-fried ham sandwich, if you can imagine such a thing. It was quite tasty.

But after this, things got ugly. I tried wrapping a muff in prosciutto and battering that, which resulted in a sandwich that tasted as if it was encased in a giant pork rind. Then Tariq got busy with the sweet stuff. Mango pate de fruit tasted like fragrant orbs of deep-fried jelly. You know what makes a chocolate cupcake taste even better? You guessed it. The Payday candy bars were impaled on Popsicle sticks and lowered into the oil, where they were transformed into something resembling corn dogs but tasting a whole lot different.

French macaroons went from being a dainty lady’s snack to a decadent molten death by sugar bomb. And the minicheesecakes with the cookie-crumb crust wrapped in a tortilla and deep-fried to a crisp? Yes. This really happened. And when sliced on the diagonal, the tortilla flaked away in a manner akin to quality phyllo.

Later, after choking down the last deep-fried chocolate truffle, I collapsed panting on the sofa and began to sweat.

Rather than water, I seemed to be perspiring a thin, oily sheen akin to the discharge of a poorly maintained outboard motor. Hours passed in a blur. I vaguely remember my wife coming home briefly, shaking her head, and then quickly leaving.

Thankfully the grease-induced hallucinations were not too frightening, as I was incapable of dialing 911.

What did I learn from all this? That the English are a demented lot and should be confined by threat of force to their dreary island realm. Also, that peeps melt and turn into a nasty goo when boiled in oil. And finally, that deep-fried mini-muffulettas are tasty, best pressed flat then dipped in tempura batter. But this knowledge came at a great price. I won’t do this again. At least, not until I deep-fry the turkey for Thanksgiving. F&D

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Dine Out Louisville!

This city’s greatest treasure is our incredible dining scene.

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BY RON JOHNSON AND JULIA HUGHES

Steel City Dining – A Trip to Pittsburgh This blue-collar town offers up full-flavored cuisine

M

My knowledge of Pittsburgh before my recent first visit to the city was limited to the names of the sports teams, two out of three rivers, and the knowledge that it was a steel-industr y town suffering the effects of a changing global economy.

Now I know that the three rivers are the Ohio, the Allegheny and the Monongahela; that the city has rebounded nicely from the decline of the steel industry; and that it is the birthplace of both Heinz Ketchup and the Klondike Bar. I also learned that this is a city where the people love to eat, and for good reason.

Pittsburgh’s cuisine is best described as gutsy, full-flavored, and representative of the strong presence of Eastern European immigration in the local culture. I don’t think I ordered a sandwich that didn’t require two hands, or a plate of food that didn’t groan from the weight of its contents.

The most famous and obvious example of this big, two-fisted dining experience is found at Primanti Brothers where monster sandwiches are stacked high with not only meats and cheeses, but with fries as well. Legend traces its roots back to 1930, when Joe Primanti operated a lunch cart in the Strip District selling sandwiches to teamsters and day laborers. His quick success led to a permanent restaurant location, where one day an unexpected delivery of potatoes inspired the idea of frying them and serving them right on the sandwich rather than as a side dish. The busy workers liked a sandwich that they could eat on the go with the fries piled inside. The restaurant still exists in the Strip, but there are also multiple other locations around town, including South Side and Market Square.

In a city with such solid working-class roots, one would expect to find a decent breakfast. Jo-Jo’s, DeLuca’s and Pamela’s all fill the bill. All three, like the original Primanti Brothers, are found in the foodie-heaven neighborhood called the Strip District. DeLuca’s 14 Fall 2008 www.foodanddine.com

offers a slate of familiar breakfast favorites, including omelets, French toast, and over-the-top pancakes studded with everything from blueberries to chocolate chunks. Jo-Jo’s quality is revealed by the lines of customers that queue up every morning for a coveted seat in the small but comfortable restaurant. The massive, stuffed omelets are a favorite dish, and if you can’t bear the wait during the morning rush, you can always come back later; breakfast is served from open to close each day.

Two dishes are so endemic to Pittsburgh that a trip to the city without ordering at least one of them would be a lot like not going at all.The first is the pierogi, a potato-stuffed dumpling (something like a Polish version of the ravioli) that came to Pittsburgh by way of its large Eastern European immigrant population. The immigrants may be assimilated now, but that has not quelled the demand for their most famous food. Pierogis in Pittsburgh are as ubiquitous as crawfish in New Orleans; everyone eats them. A good place for a pierogi novice is the aptly named Pierogi Plus, where one can buy pierogis stuffed with potato and cheese, potato and sauerkraut, cottage cheese and chives, or meat, to eat in or take home. It’s as close to Poland as one can get without leaving the country.

The second Pittsburgh original is the Devonshire sandwich, an

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open-faced creation that bears more than a passing resemblance to the Louisville Hot Brown. Slices of hear ty white bread are toasted, topped with turkey, bacon, slices of tomato and a thick cheese sauce, then run under the broiler until the whole thing is a smoldering, bronzed plate of rich and cheesey goodness. Sound familiar? The only difference I could identify was that the sauce is made with cheddar rather than the classic Mornay sauce traditionally used for the Hot Brown.

The Devonshire is supposed to have been invented by one of the Bandi brothers who opened the esteemed restaurant Le Mont. Rumor has it that one of the brothers spent a few years working at Harry’s Bar in Venice and scooped the idea from the croque monsieur sandwiches (a concept in turn lifted from the French) that are ser ved alongside the famous

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but thriving as they continue the whitetablecloth tradition once enjoyed by such super-rich Pittsburgh residents as the steel baron and philanthropist Andrew Carnegie.

But Pittsburgh is not a city where the dining is limited to hushed rooms with soaring ceilings, tuxedo-clad waiters and a traditional bill of fare. Many consider Nine on Nine to be the best restaurant in Pittsburgh.This relative newcomer features the upscale, contemporary cuisine of Chef Rick DeShantz. His daily menus borrow from the cuisines of the world and ground them all in classic French preparation and technique. It has quickly become one of the busiest restaurants in town, and reservations are a must. Other top rated dining spots in town include Bistro 19, Isabela, UUBU 6, and Eleven.

While Pittsburgh has never lost its

Primanti Brothers’ almost famous pastrami sandwich

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Harry’s Bellini cocktail. The similarities give the stor y credence. Want to sample an honest-to-goodness Devonshire? Tr y Le Mont, Union Grill, or Ritter’s Diner.

It would be unfair to paint Pittsburgh as nothing more than a working class steel-belt city on the rebound. In fact, since the decline of steel processing, the city has reinvented itself as a regional hub of financial ser vices, insurance and big business. As a result of the burgeoning white-collar population, the city’s finedining restaurants have multiplied.

Stalwar ts like Le Pommier and the Carlton are not only holding their own

roots as a place known for big portions of bold, filling immigrant food, it has evolved a diverse and sophisticated cuisine that rivals any city in America. The service is friendly, the food is uniformly good, and the conviviality is infectious. A foodie could spend an entire weekend prowling the side streets of the Strip District for delicacies like homemade mor tadella at Parma Sausage, but one could just as easily find any number of good places to eat within a short walk of a downtown hotel or the baseball stadium. A tourist really can’t go wrong eating in a city where the locals love to eat. F&D

Ethnic Restaurant 9424 Shelbyville Rd. Louisville, KY 40222 $125,000

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houston@thehoustongroup.net www.foodanddine.com Fall 2008 15

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BY JERRY SLATER

The Urban BourbonTrail

a spirits tasting tour of Louisville,

The Nation’s Gateway to Bourbon Country Many of the programs and services that local tourist agencies provide are aimed at mostly convention business and planned tours, but rarely reach impromptu vacationers or busy locals.

With the launch of Bourbon Country, however, the Louisville Convention and Visitors’ Bureau has broken this barrier.This new program is informative for travelers and cool for locals, too.

Looking to position Louisville as “Gateway to Bourbon Country,” the Bureau has set up a website and a marketing campaign, and the focus of this report, a “Passport” to the Bourbon experience.Taking a nod from the success of the wine industry in wine-producing regions such as Napa Valley in California and the Willamette Valley in Oregon, the Bourbon 16 Fall 2008 www.foodanddine.com

A pair of Bourbon flights at Bourbons Bistro

Country campaign aims to underscore the connections among history, place, food, and, of course, Bourbon.

Positioning Bourbon as a premium commodity with a rich tradition (to be enjoyed in moderation, of course), is nothing new for Louisville and Kentucky. Master distillers act as ambassadors of the Commonwealth; chefs use the rich flavors of Bourbon in the kitchens of their upscale restaurants; and bartenders and bottle shop clerks seek to turn people on to their favorites. All of this has been a Louisville tradition. Now, fully sanctioned by the city with Convention and Visitors’ Bureau dollars behind it, the Bourbon Country campaign is a smart and worthwhile endeavor.

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The Bourbon Country “Passport” is available at the Louisville Visitors Center at the corner of Fourth and Jefferson Streets.

A small booklet designed to resemble a traveler’s passport, it provides among other things directions and tour times for major regional distilleries.

The fun part of the Passport, though is “The Urban Bourbon Trail.” Get past the hokey rhyming name, and you’ll discover a clever and fun journey involved in having your Passport stamped at each of these local bars and restaurants that promote Bourbon in a positive and indulgent manner.

No purchase necessary to have your Passpor t stamped, but what fun that would be.You could complete it in a single debauched weekend or sample the spots slowly over two months, visiting a different place each week. When you finish, you may turn the Passport in to get a free T-shirt. Do it in person, and add a premium giveaway (a cool flask, the last time I checked).

Here’s a quick look at every stop on the Urban Bourbon Trail.

The Bar at BLU Located inside The Marriot at 280 W. Jefferson Street. Go for the live Bluegrass on Thursday nights.

What you’re drinking — A flight of premium Bourbons or BLU’s dessert-inspired mint julep with fresh mint, Bailey’s and creme de cacao.

Bourbons Bistro At 2255 Frankfort Avenue in Clifton, this is the only location outside downtown, but it’s worth the short drive. With more than 130 Bourbons, Bourbons Bistro competes for the city’s largest-Bourbon-list trophy.

Check for their frequent Bourbon-inspired dinners.

What you’re drinking — Something rare that you’ve read about. Did I mention they have over 130 Bourbons?

The Brown Hotel Bar The Bar is located in the lobby of The Brown Hotel, 335 W. Broadway. Drinking while you’re sunk down in an overstuffed couch surrounded by lavish architecture: priceless.

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What you’re drinking — An Old-Fashioned. Did you look around the room?

Jockey Silks Bourbon Bar and Lounge Located in the Galt House Hotel, second floor of the Rivue Tower at 140 N. Fourth Street, Jockey Silks is a clubby throwback full of wood and leather. This is Bourbons Bistro’s chief competition for the largest selection of Bourbon.

What you’re drinking — Ask the bartender, then sit back as they serve your whiskey neat with separate water and water backs. Classy!

Maker’s Mark Bourbon House and Lounge This upscale and modern room, with hip DJs on the weekends, is inside the Fourth Street Live complex at 446 S. Fourth Street.

What you’re drinking — Might as well go with the namesake. And while you are at it, have them turn your Maker’s into a Manhattan, up. The martini glass matches the surroundings.

The Old Seelbach Bar Stroll through the grandiose lobby of the Seelbach Hotel, 500 Fourth Street and take the ramp down into the speakeasystyle surroundings of this historic bar.

Check out the jazz on weekend nights.

@eo _i m^Wj ^Wff[di je ki m^[d m[ Wbbem ekhi[bl[i je h[Ye]d_p[ ^em ]eeZ j^_d]i h[Wbbo Wh[$ — Marianne Williamson

Ndjg [g^ZcYh Vi DaY Idlc hZcY djg WZhi l^h]Zh i]Vi ndj VcY ndjg [Vb^an ZmeZg^ZcXZ V _dn[ja ]da^YVn hZVhdc# Djg `cdlaZY\ZVWaZ hiV[[ add`h [dglVgY id ]Zae^c\ l^i] Vaa d[ ndjg ]da^YVn ZciZgiV^c^c\ cZZYh l^i] hVkkn gZXdbbZcYVi^dch [dg ^ciZgZhi^c\ l^cZh! hZVhdcVa WZZgh! Vgi^hVcVa X]ZZhZh VcY hd bjX] bdgZ# LZ Vahd [ZVijgZ V kVg^Zin d[ jc^fjZ \^[i ^YZVh [dg higZhh"[gZZ ]da^YVn h]dee^c\#

What you’re drinking — A Seelbach Cocktail, the Bourbon and Champagne libation that dates back to Prohibition-era 1927; or enjoy one of the single-barrel Bourbon or rye bottlings that yours truly helped pick out as the Seelbach’s former mixologist.

Proof on Main Proof ’s contemporary art collection and ever-changing mood lights create a striking atmosphere within the 21c Museum Hotel, 702 W. Main Street.

What you’re drinking — A Crescent Hill. A mix of rye whiskey (Bourbon’s spicy cousin) with maraschino cherries, Cointreau and bitters. It is named after one of Louisville’s great urban neighborhoods. F&D

&*'. 7VgYhidlc GdVY lll#DaYIdlcL^cZ#Xdb lll#@n7djgWdc#cZi DeZc , YVnh V lZZ` *%'#)*&#-*.&

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entertaining holiday party

BY TIM AND LORI LAIRD | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

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Easy Entertaining Your guide to a simple, yet elegant, Holiday Party from start to finish

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entertaining holiday party

BY TIM AND LORI LAIRD | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

Home for the Holidays Holidays can be stressful. End-of-year entertaining can present special challenges that don’t plague your average host during less hectic seasons. With the never-ending parade of office celebrations, neighborhood gatherings and family functions, holiday parties often seem more of a chore than a pleasure — to both host and invitee alike.

Tim and Lori Laird aren’t your average hosts, however. Food & Dining’s “Entertaining Couple” have thrown hundreds of festive events for friends, family and neighbors — and practice makes perfect. After years of party giving, they’ve turned entertaining into a science. In this issue, they share tips and low stress recipes for carefree holiday entertaining.

First: “Make it easy on yourself when you organize a gettogether!” says Tim. If the host is having a good time, the guests will enjoy themselves as well.

“I think holiday enter taining is especially demanding because of the time constraints involved.

People have so many other commitments, so it’s all about the planning.” Lori clarifies: “Make lists ahead of time, and ser ve items that can be prepared a day or two in advance and then heated at the last minute.”

Second: Think outside the box. “Who says you have to throw a holiday par ty in December?” Tim asks. “Thanksgiving, Christmas, Kwanzaa, Hanukkah — they’re all associated with winter, which lasts well past February, so why not give yourself a little extra time and wait till after the arrival of the New Year?” As an example, he suggests driving away the winter blahs by hosting a frozen wonderland-themed celebration in January.

“Themes are great,” says Lori, “and it’s a wonderful way to add color to a party.”

This season, Tim has come up with a tangy holiday “crantini” that adds a dazzling splash of crimson to the icy winter landscape. “With beautiful, fresh cranberries that are easy to find at this time of year, I wanted a drink that incorporated their brilliant color and flavor.” Skewered on aromatic sprigs of rosemary, they make the perfect garnish for this versatile holiday cocktail. Paired with a plate of the Lairds’ cold-weather favorites, it’s sure to make a splash at your own stress-free festive affair.

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Timeline 1 week ahead Shop for non-perishable groceries Order beef tenderloin Order salmon Shop for party favors

1 day ahead Shop for last-minute groceries Pick up beef tenderloin Pick up salmon Prepare party favors Make the ‘Holiday Crab and Crackers’ Prepare ‘Asian Dipping Sauce’ Prepare both potato dishes Marinate beef tenderloin Poach the salmon Mix pitchers of ‘Holiday Crantini’ Set up the bar Set up your music playlist

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Morning of the party Steam the asparagus Make the ‘Bourbon Au Jus’ Bake and slice beef tenderloin

2 hours ahead Decorate salmon and refrigerate Make the ‘Poached Pears in R ed Wine’ (basting until served)

1 hour ahead Plate the crab and crackers Arrange asparagus on platter Plate the beef tenderloin (serve at room temperature) Heat both potato dishes, keep warm Plate the poached pears Put rolls in basket with napkin

Just before the party Set out all food items Check bar and fill ic e buckets Turn on your playlist

H o l i d ay C r a n t i n i Martini 2 Cocktails 3 ounces Finlandia Cranberry Vodka 6 ounces cranberry juice 1 ounce sweet and sour mix

By the pitcher Using the ratio of: 1 part Finlandia Cranberry Vodka 2 parts cranberry juice 1 /2 part sweet and sour mix Shake with ice, strain into a sugar-rimmed martini glass and garnish with a rosemary skewer filled with fresh cranberries.

Party Playlist Ideas “Christmas with Harry Connick Jr.” “The Andy Williams Christmas Album” “Barenaked Holidays” by Barenaked Ladies “It’s Christmas Time” with Bing Crosby, Sinatra, Louis Armstrong “A Charlie Brown Christmas” by Vince Guaraldi “Ella Wishes You A Swinging Christmas” by Ella Fitzgerald “The Nutcracker” by Tchaikovsky

Shopping List Asparagus spears (2 pounds) English seedless cucumber (1) Orange (1) Lemon (1) Pears (8 medium-size, very firm) Yukon Gold potatoes (1 pound) Idaho potatoes (1 pound) Cranberries (1 bag, fresh) Italian parsley (1 bunch) Rosemary (2 bunches) Dill (1 bunch) Sage (1 bunch) Crabmeat (1 pounds) Salmon (3-4 pound filet, t op half, skin removed) Beef tenderloin (approximately 1 /3 pound per person) Cream cheese (8 ounces) Unsalted butter Goat cheese (5 ounces) Sour cream Lawry’s Seasoning Italian salad dressing Seafood cocktail sauce Capers Beef broth (1 10.5-oz. can) Sweet potatoes (3 29-oz. cans) Butter crackers (Pepperidge Farm’s Golden Butter Crackers) Rolls (12) Chopped pecans (2 cups) Whole cloves Bourbon Cabernet Sauvignon Chardonnay Finlandia cranberry vodka Jack Daniel’s Tennessee Whiskey Cranberry juice Sweet and sour mix

Also pick up if not alr eady in your pantry Salt Black pepper Sugar Worcestershire sauce Mayonnaise Soy sauce Sesame oil Spray oil Brown sugar Milk Vanilla extract Garlic (1 bulb) Onion (1) (white or yellow) www.foodanddine.com Fall 2008 21

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â–˛

A s p a ra g u s S p e a r s with Asian Dipping Sauce

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(SERVES 8 TO 12)

2 pounds fresh asparagus spears 2 /3 cup mayonnaise 2 tablespoons soy sauce 1 teaspoon sesame oil 1 orange, unpeeled Snap off the woody bottom parts of the asparagus spears and discard.

Peel bottom half of the spears.

Put 1 inch of w ater in a large skillet; cover and bring to a boil. Add the aspar agus, r eturn t o a boil and cook until the aspar agus is bright green and jus t tender, about 2 minutes. Plunge aspar agus int o an ic e bath immediat ely t o s top c ooking process. Allow to cool, drain, pat dry and refrigerate.

In a small bowl, combine the mayonnaise, soy sauce and sesame oil.

Grate the orange to remove the zest.

Add the zest to the sauce.

Cut the orange in half and squeeze it through a s trainer or cheesecloth.

Add the juice to the sauce and combine well.

Assembly Spoon the dipping sauc e int o a small bo wl. Plac e the bo wl in the middle of a round platter and fan the asparagus on the platter around it.

J a c k S we e t P o t a t o e s (SERVES 8 TO 10)

3 large (29-ounce) cans sweet potatoes 1 cup brown sugar 1 /3 cup Jack Daniel’s Whiskey 1 /2 cup unsalted butter 1 /2 teaspoon vanilla extract 2 cups chopped pecans Over medium heat in a lar ge saucepan, heat s weet potat oes through. Drain the liquid and mash.

Mix in br own sugar, whiskey, butter and vanilla. Spoon mixture into a 2quart shallo w baking dish. Sprinkle with pecans and bak e uncovered at 350 degrees until pecans are golden (about 30 minutes).

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Mashed Potatoes with Goat Cheese and Sage (SERVES 4 TO 6)

1 pound Yukon Gold potatoes 1 pound Idaho potatoes 5 ounces mild goat cheese, softened 1 /4 cup milk 3 tablespoons butter 3 teaspoons fresh sage, chopped Salt Black pepper Fresh sage sprigs for garnish Peel potatoes and cut int o 1-inch cubes and boil in a large saucepan of boiling salted water until tender, about 12 minut es.

Drain and r eturn potat oes t o pan. Add goat cheese, milk and butt er and mash mixtur e until smooth. Mix in chopped sage and season with salt and pepper to taste. Garnish serving bowl with fresh sage sprigs.

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▲

Poached Pears in Red Wine

1:40 PM

(SERVES 8)

8 medium-size pears 1 cup sugar 4 whole cloves 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 2 cup dry red wine

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Peel pears car efully, r etaining the stems. Cut off small slice from the bottom of each pear so it will stand upright.

In a lar ge sauc epan put the sugar, clo ves and v anilla e xtract into the r ed wine and bring t o a boil. Lay the pears on their sides in this wine blend and simmer gently, covered, for 25 to 30 minutes, turning them o ver car efully after 15 minut es. Check f or doneness b y inserting a small sharp knife int o the bott om of each pear. T he knif e should slide in easily. R emove pears fr om the liquid and place them upright in a large casserole dish.

Increase heat and boil the liquid until it reduces to a syrup. It will start to foam when ready. Pour syrup o ver pears and bas te with syrup until they are glazed with a rich glossy red color.

H o l i d ay C r a b a n d C r a c ke r s

(SERVES 12 TO 15)

2 1/2 pounds crabmeat (cleaned) or imitation crabmeat 8 ounces cream cheese 4 drops Worcestershire sauce Lawry’s Seasoning Black pepper Seafood cocktail sauce Capers Butter crackers Whip the cr eam cheese until it is light and fluffy . A dd Worcestershire, a few shakes of Lawry’s and ground pepper to taste. In a large bowl break the crab apart, leaving some large chunks. Gently s tir in spoonfuls of the cr eam cheese mixtur e until there is just enough to hold the crab together.

Assembly Form the cr ab mixture int o a dome on a serving platt er.

Drizzle seafood cocktail sauce over the top and sprinkle with capers. Serve with butter crackers. www.foodanddine.com Fall 2008 23

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Poached Salmon with Cucumber Scales (SERVES 15)

3-4 pound fresh salmon filet, top side, skin removed Water 1 lemon, juiced Black pepper 4 whole cloves 1 /4 onion, sliced 5 sprigs Italian flat-leaf parsley

8 dill sprigs (reserve 3 for garnish) 1 /2 cup dry white wine Spray oil 1 1/2 cups sour cream 1 English seedless cucumber, sliced very thin

Combine the w ater, lemon juic e, pepper, clo ves, onion, dill, parsle y and wine in the bott om of the fish poacher. Liquid should just reach the bottom of the poaching r ack. Plac e poacher on y our s tovetop ( covering two burners) and bring to a boil.

Coat the wir e rack with spr ay oil and plac e the salmon on the r ack.

Lower rack into the fish poacher and cover. Poach f or appr oximately 10 minutes per inch of thicknes s of salmon. An ins tant-read thermometer should r ead 140 degr ees in the thickest part.

Note: A fish poacher is ideal f or this recipe, but a large deep roasting pan covered with heavy-duty foil can be used instead.

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Assembly When the salmon has c ooled. sprinkle it with black pepper to taste.

Snip fr esh dill o ver the salmon, making sur e t o lightly c over the whole fish. Spr ead sour cr eam o ver the fish, just enough to cover.

Starting at the tail end, la yer cucumber slices, slightly overlapping so they resemble fish scales. R epeat until the entire fish is coated.

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Te n d e r l o i n o f Beef with B o u r b o n Au J u s (SERVES 12 TO 15)

5-pound beef tenderloin (approximately 1/3 pound per person) 1 1/2 cups prepared Italian salad dressing 5 shakes soy sauce In a lar ge sealable plas tic bag, c ombine Italian dr essing and so y sauc e. A dd beef t enderloin and marinat e o vernight in the r efrigerator, turning onc e or twice.

Remove the t enderloin from the refrigerator and plac e it in a roasting pan. Allow tenderloin to w arm up t o r oom t emperature before roasting (about an hour).

Preheat oven to 500 degrees.

Place tenderloin on r oasting rack and immediately reduce the heat to 400 degrees. Bake 30 minutes or until desir ed t emperature is reached. Do not cover or baste. A fillet is c ooked r are when the internal t emperature r eaches 130 degrees.

Fo r t h e J u s 1 can (10.5 ounces) beef broth 4 garlic cloves 1 /4 cup unsalted butter 1 /4 cup Bourbon Slowly simmer the beef br oth with the peeled garlic clo ves f or approximately 15 minutes.

Just before serving, stir in the butter and Bourbon. Pour Jus over the tenderloin when it c omes out of the oven. Let rest before slicing.

H o r s e ra d i s h C r e a m

HELPFUL TIP — Party Favors

In a small bo wl, combine sour cream and horser adish. A dd salt and pepper to taste.

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1 cup sour cream 2 tablespoons horseradish Black pepper Salt

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It is always nice to give your guests a little something t o remember the evening. Place a basket near the door with party f avors and give them to guests on their way out. Here are a f ew suggestions: Put a couple of handfuls of r aw chestnuts in a small brown lunch bag along with directions on ho w to roast them.

Bake or purchase holiday cookies, wrap them in clear c ellophane, tie with a festive bow.

Individually-packaged holiday ornaments make for a thoughtful and lasting remembrance. www.foodanddine.com Fall 2008 25

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BY ROBIN GARR

The Gift of Wine What could be mor e festive?

T

The holiday season draws near, party invitations are showing up in the mail (and so are hints from the mail carrier, the UPS man and even the garbage collectors). The eternal question looms: What is the ideal, universal gift for hosts, friends, business associates, service workers and, not least, the family physician?

I would submit that — barring such obvious exceptions as Alcoholics Anonymous members or hardshell teetotalers — it’s hard to top a gift of wine. Wine is broadly available and widely enjoyed. It comes in a convenient size package and commands a range of prices all the way from the budget level to wretched excess, offering you something at every price point depending on your desire to impress.

Best of all, it’s dead easy to gift-wrap: You needn’t even buy wrapping paper and a bow, as most wine shops offer an attractively affordable selection of decorative wine bags with tie tops, made with the tasteful giver in mind.

When you’re looking for a wine gift that’s a perfect match for your recipient, though, there’s one little gotcha: Fine wine comes in almost infinite variety of style, flavor and price, and individuals’ tastes vary. A truly thoughtful giver may want to make an effort to find out what particular wines the recipient prefers: European or American or other? Red, white or pink?

Bone-dry, just a touch of sugar or outright sweet?

Bubbles or not? So many decisions! An easy alternative might be to stick with the most popular regions and grape varieties in an appropriate price range, figuring that you can’t go far wrong with the wines that fly off the shelves.

Here are a few specific suggestions aimed at making your wine-gifting experience a happy one for you and the person who opens your surprise package.

Start at a quality fine-wine shop. Sure, you can pick up a cheap jug of mass-market wine at a neighborhood liquor store, but the city’s better wine shops offer you a broad selection of wine types and prices, and you can rely on the staff to give you savvy advice.

Don’t be shy about asking for that advice. As noted above, small wine shops are typically run by the owner; large fine-wine shops seek to hire floor staff who can competently answer questions.

If you know your friend loves French Burgundy, for example, or Australian Shiraz, a knowledgable wine-shop source can point you to one — or several — similar wines in your price range.

★ ★

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★ A little knowledge. If you’re shy about asking for help, or find

yourself in a warehouse-size store with no one to assist you, check out the popular wine regions and grapes and check the price tags to find something in your range. Red wine? The movie Sideways made Pinot Noir immensely popular, and Pinot is also the grape of French Burgundy, arguably one of the world’s great wines (and priced to match). Merlot is widely popular (despite being badly dissed in that same wine-country comedy) because it’s usually made as a fruity red wine with a mellow character. Many folks love Zinfandel (the real, red stuff, not the sweet pink “White Zinfandel” or “blush” wine). If you want a white, you can rarely go wrong with popular Chardonnay, or with Riesling from Germany as a backup if you want a pick on the slightly sweet side.

Fizz is fun. Just about everybody loves Champagne and similar sparkling wines, and the sound of a popping cork lets the world know that it’s party time. Genuine Champagne, the real thing from France, is pricey, ranging from $25 or so right up to the three-figure

★

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range. But it’s uniformly good, and when you’re looking for a more upscale gift, it’s hard to beat as a sure-fire pleaser. If you want the fun of bubbles without the high toll of the fancy stuff, ask for Cava, the sparkling wine of Spain, or Prosecco, the fun and frothy bubbly from Northern Italy.

Both these wines should be easy to find in the $10 range.

Sweet stuff. Dessert wines are rich, sweet and sumptuous; many of them also tend to be strong, many of them (like Port, Sherry and Madeira) “fortified” to 20 percent alcohol or so with a splash of brandy added to the sweet wine.There’s a wide range of dessert wines, from those mentioned to wines made from overripe, late-harvested grapes such as Sauternes from France or the hard-to-pronounce Trockenbeerenauslese from Germany.

Canada’s native ice wine, made from grapes literally frozen on the vine, is a toothache-sweet, high-cost rarity.

At the high end. Things get a little more complicated if you’re seeking a spare-no-expense wine gift for someone you really want to impress. With the exception of Champagne, most “collectible” wines — such as top-tier French Bordeaux, California Cabernet Sauvignon, the Barolo and Barbaresco from Northern Italy and limited-production Shiraz from Australia — require years of maturing in a wine cellar under controlled temperature conditions before they’re ready to enjoy.

Unless you know your recipient has a wine cellar and knows how to use it, it may be best to bypass this niche.

Bottles large and small. Most wine comes in a standard 750 ml bottle, the modern equivalent of the old “fifth.” But for a particularly spectacular gift, seek out a magnum (double the size of a standard bottle) or even such rarities from a Jeroboam (3 liters or four bottles) to the man-size Nebuchadnezzar (15 liters or 20 regular-size bottles in one). At the other end of the scale, how about a gift basket with a half-dozen “half-bottles,” the undersize 375 ml bottle that’s just enough when you are drinking abstemiously or having dinner with a partner who doesn’t do wine?

There’s a huge range of options, and once you solve the basics, this is a great advantage:There’s something for just about everyone at just about any price. Happy holidays, and bottoms up! F&D

★

★

★

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people and places feature

BY MARY JOHNSON | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

Helping Hands Make Irish Eyes Smile

O’Shea’s does well by doing Good 28 Fall 2008 www.foodanddine.com

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Not too long after O’Shea’s Irish Pub opened in 1994, proprietor Tom O’Shea got a visit from “a nice young man, neatly dressed, kind of a GQ sort of guy, who said he just wanted to come in and clean our bathrooms for us.” The request seemed a little odd, said O’Shea, but he figured there really wasn’t anything wrong with it. And as it turned out, the young man cleaned the restrooms of the new spot at 956 Baxter Avenue very well indeed.

“He’d stop by a couple of times a year,” O’Shea said. “He did this for the first four or five years we were open. Then I didn’t see him for a while.” As it turned out, the man didn’t return until a few months after Katie Lassiter was injured on a ride at Kentucky Kingdom in 2007.

But the young man — whose name O’Shea eventually learned was Robert Pittman — had already planted an idea that would inspire O’Shea on a mission.

But that’s getting ahead of Tom O’Shea’s story.

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people and places feature

BY MARY JOHNSON | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

When O’Shea graduated from Bellarmine University in 1985, running his family’s bar had not been part of his career plan. Although he worked at the bar after school hours, when he graduated, he moved on to become a supervisor for UPS. The family’s bar — O’Shea’s — had been open since 1957 at 5000 Poplar Level Road. It was a joint venture of his grandmother, Mary O’Shea, and her brother, retired Louisville police officer Warren Poole. Originally both a liquor store and a bar, “for a time it was known as ‘Mary’s Chateau’ and operated as a lounge,” O’Shea said. In the 1970s, Tom’s father, Kevin O’Shea, took over its operation, and Tom and his younger brother, Mike, pitched in while going to school.

Tom had just graduated from Bellarmine and was just 22 when Kevin O’Shea died in 1986, and ownership of the bar passed to him and Mike. For several months, O’Shea said, he worked two jobs — the bar and UPS — but soon realized he’d have to “do one or the other.”

“I was always searching,” he said. “I always felt there’s gotta be more to life than just working at a job.”

O’Shea decided to throw himself into running the bar — but for him it was always about more than owning a pub. It was

Victorian-type pub” — in the former warehouse building at 123 E. Main, which they bought with other investors in 2006.This pub will be part of a redevelopment effort in the 100 block of East Main that includes a planned $18 million Whiskey Row Lofts condominium project. O’Shea’s Louisville Pub Group, which employs over 50 staff at its three current locations, will soon be readying some of them to staff the new pub by early next summer. (The name of the new pub isn’t set yet, but, he said, “we’re thinking should have ‘O’Shea’ in it somewhere.”

The downtown O’Shea’s will serve fare “a little more upscale” than conventional pub grub, he said. He envisions it as “a place where, when you come to Louisville, you’ll say, ‘this is a cool town’ … like Seattle or Por tland!” A woodworking craftsman is already at work on building the back bar, he said.

O’Shea said he and his two partners will retain 51 percent ownership in the new downtown pub, but plan to give the other 49 percent ownership to 17 of their senior management staff.

His commitment to offer ownership opportunities to his staff has become more important to him as he’s pulled back from the day-to-day bartending and taken on more of an ownership role, he said.

“ We raised $35,000 that one day and something just came over us — it was the most inspiring thing any of us had ever done.” about the customers, and his staff too, he felt. It was about making life good for them as well.

By the mid 1990s, the two O’Shea brothers added a second bar. They were leasing O’Shea’s but wanted to own a place on the booming Baxter and Bardstown Road strip.

They had their eye on a laundromat that they thought would make a fine pub location, when the owner of the building they were leasing decided to sell it to them. “That was 1998 — and then the laundromat went out of business about that same time, and we said,‘well, we know what to do with that.’ ” So they bought it too, and converted it to Flanagan’s Ale House, at 934 Baxter Ave. “And we still had O’Shea’s on Poplar Level.”

The Poplar Level location was sold in 2000, and in 2005, Tom and his partners, brother Mike and longtime Baxter Ave. employee Dave Zimmerman, operating under the name Louisville Pub Group, LLC, purchased Maier’s Tavern in St. Matthews.The next year they converted the old saloon at 3921 Shelbyville Road to Brendan’s Restaurant & Pub, bringing the total to three pubs.

Now, next summer, said O’Shea, they plan to open a fourth pub downtown on East Main Street — “a really cool, upscale 30 Fall 2008 www.foodanddine.com

“There’s no way we could be successful or do what we do if we didn’t have great people. I was always on the front lines, but now that I’m older I feel I have to take care of all my people. If we do that, and give them great care, we feel they will give great attention to our customers. ‘Stick with us,’ I told them. ‘We can’t do it by ourselves.’ ” Which brings us back at last to Robert Pittman, who cleaned the restrooms at O’Shea’s Irish Pub. How’s that? “My whole life, I’ve always asked the question, ‘What the hell are we here for?’ You look for a purpose. It can’t be just about making money. None of our decisions are ever about making more money. It’s about ‘is it better for our customers? Our staff?’ When we focus on that, everything happens.”

O’Shea said his company has always given to worthy causes, “but honestly, we took it to a new level when Katie Lassiter was injured.” Monique Lassiter, the mother of the 13-year-old whose feet were severed on an amusement park ride at Six Flags Kentucky Kingdom in June, 2007, had worked at O’Shea’s for several years.“I’d watched Katie grow up,” said O’Shea, and when she was injured,“it just came to me: we’ll have a day and give the

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CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: The O’Connell’s Reuben at O’Shea’s; the Bluegrass Blowout Burger and Beer Batter Fish & Chips at Brendan’s; and the Italian Sub at Flanagan’s.

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proceeds of everything we sell to the fund that had been set up for Katie.” So Monday, Aug. 6, 2007, was set as “Katie’s Day” at O’Shea’s.

“It was the busiest day we’d ever had,” he said. “We raised $35,000 that one day for Katie. And we were just sitting there afterward talking about it, and something just came over us: it was the most inspiring thing any of us had ever done.”

Around that same time, O’Shea saw an article in the newspaper about “Love Louisville Day,” a day when ordinary people would perform ordinary acts of kindness for others. The driving force behind the event was Robert Pittman, lead pastor of The Highlands Vineyard Church. Suddenly O’Shea made the connection: Pittman was the man who had offered to clean the pub’s restrooms all those years ago, acting out in life his commitment to “random acts of kindness.”

Pittman’s idea resonated instantly with O’Shea. On the next “Love Louisville Day,” workers at all of O’Shea’s pubs got involved in doing small good things: “They went to Goodwill and saw people shopping for clothes; they took out their wallets and paid for the clothes. They bought folks groceries.” In short, they did little things, but things that made a big difference to people who didn’t have much.

“You know, when you’re depressed, or if you’re broke, and somebody just O’Shea attributes the success of his restaurants to the great people he chooses for his staff, including (clockwise from left): Ginny Pittenger, who handles fund-raising details for the restaurants, shown flanked by charity event posters; O’Shea’s server Eris Rekuch in full Irish dress; longtime Brendan’s bartender Diane Rayburn; and the restaurant group’s Executive Chef Tom Jackson, discussing matters of the day with Tom O’Shea.

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gives you $10, it can sometimes feel just like God came to them,” he said.“We see that a lot.”

His employees, he said, feel that doing such things builds “a deeper kind of fulfillment. It’s kind of corny, but it’s fulfillment.”

More good deeds followed.“I saw in the paper about another killing in the West End. I saw Christopher 2X on TV. I didn’t know him, but I called him up. We did a thing with him on Martin Luther King Day. And our staff was inspired by that.”

Since that first fund-raiser for Katie Lassiter, they’ve raised dollars to pay shooting victim Shelby Harris’s medical bills, and to provide for the family of Erica Hughes, a toddler injured in a shooting in which her mother was killed. They’ve raised $10,000 for the West End School; $8,000 for the Martin Luther King Crimes Against Children Foundation; $5,000 for the Sudanese Refugee College Fund. Last spring, their “Save the Pool” Mondays brought in $20,000 to get Breslin Pool in the Irish Hill neighborhood re-opened.

“And we do that ‘Love Louisville’ thing with Robert’s church two or three times a year now.”

They get personal letters and emails from people they’ve helped; they hear from people who are seeking help. “It’s awesome to be in a position to help just a little bit,” O’Shea said.

O’Shea says they’re “open to doing ever y other Monday to help a cause,” donating 40 percent of that day’s profits. Ginny Pittenger, who handles catering events for the pubs, handles all fund-raising details, and vets the requests for money that come in.

Fund-raisers at the pub are usually advertised only with in-house flyers, O’Shea said. Yet, with no more formal publicity, O’Shea has found that the cause-related Mondays have really increased turnout on those days. “It’s a win-win. It’s a no-brainer.

We’re not even doing anything special; but people feel that we are.

“It has really opened our eyes.We’re growing our business by doing good.” F&D

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DOWNTOWN AT FOURTH & BROADWAY (502) 583-1234 • www.brownhotel.com www.foodanddine.com Fall 2008 33

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BY DAVID LANGE | PHOTOGRAPH BY DAN DRY

Bubble Tea Offers Pearls of Flavor A look at a curious Asian import quietly gaining popularity

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A lot of the people who frequent neighborhood coffeehouses these days, it seems, are always on the lookout for the next “edge” or “fad.” They may have started out ordering standard coffee, but evolved into espresso-based drinks, loose-leaf teas, and perhaps during the summer, iced frappuccinos and smoothies.

One hot trend this summer — old stuff in Asia but just gaining visibility in Louisville — is bubble tea! This offbeat drink also goes by such names as boba tea, pearl tea, milk tea or bubble drink. It is part beverage, part dessert, and all fun!

Bubble tea originated in Taiwan in the 1980s. The original version consisted of hot Taiwanese black tea with condensed milk and honey added, plus a ration of tapioca pearls — the so-called bubbles that give the tea its name. As this drink became popular, variations emerged. Iced versions appeared, often with a hint of peach or plum flavoring added; then came more fruit flavors: strawberry, passion fruit, mango, chocolate and coconut, for instance. Eventually, in an extreme variation, the tea was replaced entirely with fruit.

Flavors in the form of powder, fruit juice, pulp, or syrup are added to hot black or green tea, which is shaken in a cocktail shaker or mixed in a blender with ice until chilled.Today in Asia and

some larger cities you can find shops entirely devoted to bubble tea, similar to juice bars of the early 1990s. Here in Louisville, look for bubble tea at ethnic Chinese and Vietnamese restaurants. The fad is still growing, so don’t hesitate to ask your favorite spot to consider it.

The distinctive characteristic of bubble tea, as noted, is the presence of gummy balls (also called “pearls” or “boba”) of tapioca (or, sometimes in East Asia, yam starch), that fall to the bottom of the drink in its cup. The size of these pearls varies, but they are usually larger than those used in tapioca pudding, with a diameter of at least 6 millimeters. You’ll be served a brightly colored straw with your drink, made in an oversize width so you can suck the pearls through.

The tapioca pearls are generally translucent brown to black in color with a darker brown center, but pearls in other, brighter colors — sometimes called “jelly cubes” — are now showing up at many vendors.

Bubble tea bars often serve bubble tea in a cup sealed with plastic so it can be shaken in the cup. You pierce the cellophanelike plastic with the fat straw to enjoy your drink. Other cafés top your drink with a dome-shaped lid. The sky is the limit: Even fruit

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slushes and smoothies may have boba added.

Here’s another variation: “green pearls,” or green tapioca balls with a hint of green tea flavor.They are chewier than the traditional tapioca balls. Want more alternatives? Full-scale bubble tea shops may offer a choice of egg pudding, aloe, coconut jelly or konjac jelly in your drink.

The jelly is cut into small cubes or rectangular strips and has a pliant, chewy consistency. Try ordering yours “half and half,” a drink made with equal rations of pearls and jelly. Other jellies include lychee jelly, coffee jelly, and rainbow jelly, a fruit mixture in many colors.

Challenge your palate with peach, lichee, mango or passion fruit! These are the more traditional green or black tea flavors, and may be served either hot or cold.

Ultimately, though, the bubble tea isn’t just about the colors or the flavors: It’s the “bubbles” that make boba tea such an interesting experience.

If that doesn’t sound too appetizing to you, many places that sell bubble tea also offer the boldly flavored milk teas with or without the pearls as you prefer. But don’t be afraid. Try it at least once. It’s not as strange as it may sound.The pearls remind me of a melted Gummi Bear.

It’s possible to make bubble tea at home, but preparing tapioca pearls can be labor-intensive, and the tapioca pearls must be consumed immediately to retain freshness and that soft gummy texture. If you want to make your own, first locate the ingredients. Tapioca pearls are often available in Chinese markets, sold dry in plastic bags rather like pasta. You can also find them at larger grocery stores and foodspecialty shops, as well as online.

To prepare the pearls, boil them in a generous amount of water for a half-hour, then turn off the heat and let them sit for another half-hour. Rinse, and they’re ready to go. It’s easier to skip making it yourself and head for the nearest bubble tea shop.

Bubble tea won’t likely replace cola as America’s standard soft drink. But the North American public is slowly but surely developing a taste for it. Once you overcome the initial sense of weirdness, you may find bubble tea tasty.

If your idea of a strong drink is a singlemalt Scotch or a dark lager, try the drink that really has balls: bubble tea. F&D www.foodanddine.com Fall 2008 35

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BY ROGER A. BAYLOR

Give Thanks for Autumn’s Seasonal Brews founded be th’ P uritans to give thanks f ’r bein’ presarv ed fr ’m th’ “ ’Twas Indyans, an’ … we keep it to give thanks we are presarved fr’m th’ Puritans. ” — Finley Peter Dunne (1867-1936) - Mr. Dooley’s Opinions, “Thanksgiving” (1900)

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Beer and brewing as we know them are nuanced traditions that derive primarily from northerly climes, even though their ancient origins are rooted in the Middle East.

Come to think of it, the same goes for Christmas, and to some extent, America’s own contribution to gluttony,Thanksgiving.

Our seemingly endless autumn and winter holidays take many of their traditions from European social customs and habits, and historic immigration patterns brought us beer styles that remain familiar. Some adhere to their original hoary incarnations; others have been transformed by American innovation and zeal.

The late, great beer writer Michael Jackson persuasively argued that the practice of conjuring special early winter seasonal beers goes back to pre-Christian winter solstice celebrations, which later were thoughtfully folded into the early Christian holiday creation, and ultimately became regular features of the religious and beermaking calendar s in Europe’s once numerous monastery brew houses.

As brewing evolved into a commercial, secular enterprise, the eagerly awaited annual return of special seasonal beers became full-fledged events in their own right; still thematically linked to the sacred but spilling out into the world at large. During the post-WWII nadir in American brewing, much of this heritage was lost in the U.S., only later to be reconnected with the conventions in those locales that never forgot it: Belgium and England, and to a lesser extent, Germany and Scandinavia.

In these places, cooler weather has generally inspired greater heft and higher alcohol contents in seasonal beers. It makes sense that the celebratory nature of the holiday season would provide a further pretext to add all manner of spices to the mix. This is somewhat in the tradition of the Wassail bowl, although I think “mulling” with spice remains a practice best reserved for lesser wines, not beer.

Thus, the holiday beer dimension comes into sharper focus.

Firm, often malty in body; stronger, though not always extreme; 36 Fall 2008 www.foodanddine.com

warming, but sometimes straddling a dangerously fine line between the shippable and the quaffable; and, in selected cases, imbued with a variety of spices and flavorings that deftly reflect holiday cooking and baking traditions.

How wide a variety? Just to name a few obvious tastes, these might include cinnamon, nutmeg, coffee, hazelnut, chamomile, sage, cumin, orange peel, ginger, cocoa, coriander, anise, spruce, juniper, cherries or chestnuts, each deployed to balance the malt sweetness in a holiday beer.

Naturally, all of them are not used at once. But sometimes you’d be surprised at the combinations. For a classic six-pack of spiced beer, try Anchor “Our Special Ale,” St. Peter’s Spiced Ale, Great Lakes Christmas, Anderson Valley Winter Solstice, Schlafly Christmas, and N’Ice Chouffe.

Had any squash beer lately?

Lest we forget, and as improbable as it may seem, the humble pumpkin has recently been elevated to trendy status in brewing circles. While the release dates of pumpkin ales seems to fall earlier ever y year, these may be the beery creations best suited to a discussion of Thanksgiving.

Pumpkin beer hasn’t seemed to fall into a dedicated style. Some use pumpkin fruit, while others incorporate pumpkin pie spices. Dogfish Head, Shipyard, Buffalo Bill’s, New Holland and Schlafly are commonly available brands.

The traditional notion of Thanksgiving dinner may be passé in some quarters. I love it, and yet in recent years my wife and I have tended to frequent Asian restaurants, which providentially remain open for the Thanksgiving holiday when most other eateries are closed. Vietnamese suits my inner contrarian, but I confess to frequent daydreams about turkey, sweet potatoes, stuffing, side veggies and the wonderful opportunities to pair beers with them.

Since spiced beers usually are more appropriate for Christmas, let’s save them for December sampling. What beer styles work with a classic Thanksgiving spread?

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As you might easily guess, I favor the full-flavored approach, an attitude not dissimilar to the Pinot Noir pairing strategy of the wine lover. Seeking cherry, cranberr y and spice notes? Look no fur ther than Belgian ale styles, as in McChouffe, Chimay Premiere (red label), Maredsous 8, Rodenbach Grand Cru and Gouden Carolus Classic, to name just five.

German styles are more narrowly defined and less helpful, and yet a fat mug of muscular Celebrator Doppelbock (customarily a springtime seasonal) would hit the mark, especially if such a normally clean beer could be juiced with fruitiness — but wait, such a heavenly beer really does exist: Aventinus Wheat Doppelbock.

The hoppy American microbrews I cherish on an everyday basis don’t strike me as good matches for the traditional dishes served at our imagined Beaver Cleaver Thanksgiving, although they are still my choice for the football games on television after the meal. That noted, don’t count out the magic of hops at dinner. Belgian-style Saison beers (the Dupont family, Glazen Toren, Ommegang Hennepin) are very compatible with turkey and fixings. They boast lightly hoppy dryness, gentle effervescence, and peppery notes for accent.

Finally, don’t neglect the most underappreciated brewing region in the world: Northern France, home to ageworthy Bieres de Garde from the likes of Jenlain, La Choulette and Castelain (Jade, Castelain and St. Amand). This somewhat nebulous family of beers can be blonde, amber or dark. They’re seldom overtly hoppy, and lean toward a complex, rich malt character that drinks better with food than standing alone.

In the end, my favorite holiday beers are the ones that help me feel festive, and in pursuing this goal, I’ve been known to make compromises that my purist’s instinct would normally eschew.

Last year, the festive compromise became known as a Chocolate Covered Cherry, a beer “cocktail” that combines roughly three parts Rogue Chocolate Stout from Oregon and one part Kasteel Rouge, a cherry-infused ale from Belgium. It’s both delicious and fully representative of diverse seasonal brewing traditions combining to instill warmth and happiness. F&D www.foodanddine.com Fall 2008 37

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people and places profiles

BY MICHAEL L. JONES | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

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A Classic in the Making Napa River Grill has been a c onsistently popular mainstay for years. Its impressive new digs help move it up to a new level.

Anyone who has ever rented a Ryder truck knows that moving can be a hassle. But when you’re talking about moving a business, that can be risky too. So it took a lot of deliberation before J.D. Rothberg, operating owner of the Napa River Grill, decided to relocate his establishment from its original location on Dupont Circle to the new Westport Village retail complex.

Over the past decade, Napa had built a reputation as a quality destination restaurant, but Rothberg believed he could expand the business if it was in an area with more traffic. Although he risked alienating some longtime customers and taking on more overhead at a time when sales could be decreasing, Rothberg felt the potential rewards would be worth the gamble.

“There are two families involved in Napa and we talked about it before we made a decision to move,” he said. “I figured one of two things would happen:The move could fail and they’d be talking about what a dumb decision J.D. made. Or it would succeed and everyone would be talking about what a great decision we made.”

As it turned out, the relocation has succeeded even better than Rothberg imagined. Not only did Napa’s longtime regulars come over to the new location, 1211 Herr Lane, but the restaurant has attracted volumes of new patrons as well. Thanks to the extra business, the restaurant has added 35 employees to the payroll.

(from left) Napa owner J.D. Rothberg, Executive Chef David Malthaner and General Manager Shane Hall

Napa River Since Napa River Grill reopened in its new location in June, Rothberg said, business has almost doubled, from $45,000 to $50,000 in sales per week at the old location to close to $100,000 weekly today. He attributes the success to the way his staff handled the relocation and the increased business. At Napa’s last staff meeting, he rewarded all 80 of his employees by handing out crisp, new $50 bills.

“Your most valuable resource, as a restaurant owner, is the people you have working for you,” Rothberg said. “I handed out $4,000 in cash because I wanted to make a statement. I debated about how much to give them. I was going to give them $20, but I thought $50 would get their attention. It’s not much, but it helps.

38 Fall 2008 www.foodanddine.com

Grill 893-0141 1211 Herr Lane

It’s a tank of gas or money towards a bill. I want the staff to know that we realize Napa’s success starts with them and how they take care of our customers. Frankly, everybody is making more money. We’ve been on such a good run it’s like a honeymoon period. I’m determined that there is not going to be an end to this honeymoon.”

Napa is open daily for dinner, and for lunch Monday through Friday. Rothberg attributes the restaurant’s success to a combination of new and old elements. The new location has about 1,400 square feet more space than the old one, so there is now room for two full-service lounges and party rooms. The patio has large tables with fire pits in the center, and it is bordered by a small

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Napa’s Ménage à Trois — Sesame-seared ahi tuna, pomegranate salmon and honey miso sea bass. www.foodanddine.com Fall 2008 39

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Maker’s Mark Rack of Lamb

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vineyard with fencing made to look like gnarly grapevines.

The spir it of the Dupont Circle location still inhabits the new Napa River Grill. The restaurant’s logo, a metal frog in a top hat drinking wine, sits out front in a custom-built fountain that greets visitors as they enter. Pressed between glass in the restroom doors are corks from wines opened at the old restaurant. And the chandelier in the Vineyard Room was made with shards from 378 wine bottles that were emptied by Napa patrons.

“We tried to take parts of what we had and recycle them into the new restaurant,” Rothberg said. “It’s about taking the least expensive items and turning them into art.”

But Rothberg and his par tner did not skimp on their decoration budget.They spent about $700,000 getting the Westport Village restaurant into shape. All of the artwork from Dupont Circle made it to the new location.

In addition, they purchased $30,000 worth of works by local artists to cover the extra wall space.

Rothberg, 48, star ted in the restaurant business when he was 18. He worked for a number of corporate operations before landing in Louisville in the early 1990s to work for Michael Grisanti.

After a few years, Rothberg and Grisanti decided to team up with Simon Fields to open a new restaurant. But it took them almost four years to figure out what was missing from the local culinary scene.

Napa River Grill is named for Napa Valley in Nor thern California, not far nor th of San Francisco. The valley’s

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Lobster and Bibb Salad

Napa River Grill’s Vineyard Room features a custom chandelier made with 378 wine bottles that were served to restaurant patrons.

vineyards are among the most respected producers of fine wine in the United States. Rothberg first visited the area when he was 15, but he didn’t truly fall in love with the area until he needed a concept for his new restaurant.

“We had three concepts that we were working on before Napa,” Rothberg remembered.“We had a chophouse Italian restaurant, Cajun, and then an upscale Italian place. But in 1997, we ate our way through Napa Valley and loved everything about the place.”

Napa River Grill opened for business in 1999. A few years later, Grisanti sold his interest in the restaurant to his partners. Fields remains part owner, but he leaves the day-to-day operation to Rothberg, who says the restaurant still operates by its founding principle. “All of our decisionmaking is Napa Valley,” he explained. “We go out there every year to see what they are doing. The fencing (by the patio), the color scheme, these are ideas taken from our most recent trip to Napa. I bought the fire pits for our patio tables when I was there. Napa is a very different kind of place.

It’s a small valley that produces some of the best wine, chefs, cheeses, and art in the world. People there have a passion for these things.That’s what I wanted to bring to Louisville.”

Because Napa Valley is located in California, the home of diverse immigrants, there’s a variety of ethnic influences in its food. Patrons can enjoy everything from a simple ground-to-order rib eye cheeseburger to a sensational veal Napoleon or wok-seared seafood.The Ménage à Trois is a real standout: It lives up to its name because it is truly three entrées for the price of one. The dish features a honey miso sea bass on a bed of jasmine rice, salmon with a pomegranate sauce on top of roasted new potatoes, and a piece of sesame-seared ahi tuna with Asian vegetables and ginger on the side.

The restaurant’s signature dish is probably the Napa River Grill beef tenderloin, which comes in both 7- and 10-ounce cuts with jumbo lump crab and horseradish cream sauce, creamy Maytag blue cheese and applewood-smoked bacon. For me, the highlight of the menu is a dessert, the banana egg rolls served with ice cream. And because the restaurant takes its inspiration from wine country, there are lots of wine choices:The list includes 450 wines by the bottle and 50 by the glass.

Rothberg re-emphasized that the credit for Napa’s continued success goes to his staff. In particular he singled out Shane Hall, his general manager.

“He doesn’t know as much about the kitchen as I do,” Rothberg said. “But he’s a master of dealing with people.We can be 150 overbooked and he’ll take care of everybody. They’ll leave happy. I don’t know how he does it sometimes.”

Hall says the food and the atmosphere at Napa River Grill sell themselves. “We offer fine dining in a causal atmosphere at a casual price,” he said. “I started working at Napa soon after it first opened. I answered an ad for a server. But I really believed in the passion and the vision behind the restaurant, especially after I took a trip to Napa Valley myself and saw their inspiration. It is something that you can’t turn into a cookie cutter.”

For that reason, Rothberg has ignored opportunities to open a second location.Visitors from nearby cities often tell him that he ought to franchise the concept and open one in their town. But Rothberg said he’d never do that unless he met someone who had the same passion for wine and food that animates him. Plus, he’s not done tweaking. At the staff meeting, before he sent his employees off to spend their bonuses, Rothberg said: “We’ve thought a lot about this stuff. We took 30 years of experience and put it into this restaurant. Now, all you and I have to do is shepherd it to success.”

They appear to be on the right path. F&D www.foodanddine.com Fall 2008 41

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people and places profiles

BY MICHAEL L. JONES | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

Standing the test of time Buck’s Restaurant continues to satisfy with old-style southern charm and well-crafted contemporary and classic dishes

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The flowers are surely the first thing you notice when you walk into Buck’s. Hundreds of white Star of Bethlehem flowers cover almost every available space — bar, tables, even wall ornaments.The petals contrast with the restaurant’s dark, hunter-green interior like tiny halos of light.

“I give flowers to the ladies after their meal,” says Hensel “Buck” Heath, the restaurant’s maitre d’hotel and namesake. “They take them home and put them in water. When the flowers stop blooming, the women start thinking, ‘It’s time to go see ole’ Buck again.’ ” Heath himself may well be the second thing you notice at Buck’s. The restaurant’s host and historian, with his pronounced Virginia accent and courtly manners, he could play the part of a Southern gentleman in a classic Hollywood movie. At Buck’s, Heath flirts with the women and entertains customers with stories about the restaurant and his life.

Buck’s is literally Heath’s home: He lives upstairs. So when he treats you like a guest in his dining room, you really are. Several years ago, a local artist made paintings from photographs she took at the restaurant.The paintings now hang in the bar area, the very

Bucks’ signature Bourbon Pecan Chicken — Free-range chicken stuffed with Brie and topped with an Old Forester Bourbon sauce.

place where the original photos were taken. What’s more, just about everything in the paintings is the same today as they were years ago; even the bartender standing behind the bar. You see, Buck’s has changed very little during its 17 years in business. Heath boasts that this is because he got it right at the beginning. He reasoned that if his place appealed to women, they’d drag their husbands and boyfriends along with them.

It’s fitting that Buck’s is located in Old Louisville, home to a large collection of Victorian homes, because the restaurant is all about old-fashioned romance.Take the flowers: Each week, a florist flies in 300 Star of Bethlehems, traditional Christmas flowers from South America. The white flowers complement the crisp white tablecloths.Tables are set with deliberately mismatched china and silverware. Elaborate Asian screens separate the restrooms from the dining area. Buck’s is full of antiques, but the topper is the beautiful brass chandelier that lights up the main dining room.

The romantic atmosphere is only enhanced by singer Rick Bartlett who serenades lovers from his baby grand piano with such standards as “As Time Goes By” and “Embraceable You.” “This is a special-occasion restaurant, but we get a lot of

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Buck’s owner Curtis Rader (right) and Executive Chef Greg Johnson.

637-5284 425 W. Ormsby Avenue

much. He wants to teach his cooks everything from the ground up. He calls them ‘homemade ice cream.’ We butted heads a little bit because I already had some experience, but I learned a lot about running a quality restaurant from him.”

Johnson must be doing something right. In the two years he’s been executive chef, the restaurant has enjoyed critical acclaim. Having such quality fare coming out of the kitchen makes Heath’s job easier. “I think the food adds to the romance of the place,” he said. “It’s part of what makes the experience so special. You have a nice meal in a cozy atmosphere.You can dance to the music.The colors of the restaurant are beautiful: red, yellow, orange, and white. It’s like a moon garden.”

Heath talks so lovingly about Buck’s that you’d guess he owned the place. In fact, though, he sold it to Curtis Rader nearly a decade ago when he realized that he was more a showman than a businessman. “I don’t have all of the headaches and bottomline money issues,” Heath says. “I’m so grateful to Curtis for letting me run this place for him.”

Heath is in his early 60s but looks at least a decade younger. He got his nickname as a teenager when he was growing up near Virginia Beach, Virginia. “I had an uncle that used to say, ‘You’re as wild as a buck.’ The name just stuck to me.”

As a young man, Heath lived in California for a while until he realized that he wasn’t fond of earthquakes. After that, he tried New York. A friend, Norma Flaherty, lured him to Louisville, where he got a job at one of the many restaurants that preceded Buck’s in its Mayflower Hotel location. In 1992, Heath and Flaherty bought the place. He’s been there ever since.

Buck’s R e s t a u r a n t

people who are regulars because it is so beautiful,” Bartlett says. “I remember the songs that they like and go right into it. I try not to be overwhelming, I walk a fine line between being entertaining and intruding on the dining experience.

You can look at the people and tell where they want you to go. It’s reading the crowd.”

The atmosphere and the music prompt guests to linger at Buck’s even after their meal is over. When my girlfriend and I visited, we sat at the bar having cocktails and sharing an excellent plate of scallops Arancia while we waited for a table. The appetizer featured large scallops seared with frisée, red onions and cherry tomatoes; it is the orange saffron glaze that truly makes the dish.

Executive Chef Greg Johnson refers to his menu as “Global Culinary,” because it features a wide range of American and international ethnic dishes. The menu features everything from Crispy Fish with Sweet Chili Sauce to Pasta Cantonese Noodles.

Johnson’s signature dish is Bourbon Pecan Chicken, a baked free-range chicken stuffed with Brie cheese and breaded with pecan flour.The whole concoction is topped with an Old Forester Bourbon sauce. I tried this dish and judged it sinfully good. My girlfriend, who wanted to eat light, settled on the Baked Corbina which is topped with a tomato and vegetable ragout garnished with garlic shrimp.

Johnson attended Sullivan University and has cooked for places as diverse as Vincenzo’s, Joe’s Crab Shack, and a Navy ship. He brings a lot of culinary influences to Buck’s kitchen. “I was attending Sullivan when I was working at Vincenzo’s, so I was learning two different styles at once,” says Johnson, who also did a stint in the Navy. “Agostino (Gabriele, chef at Vincenzo’s) doesn’t like trained chefs so

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Scallops Arancia — Frisée, seared scallops, cherry tomatoes, red onions, finished with an orange saffron glaze.

Buck’s assorted cheese and fruit plate.

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“There are still some people who don’t know that Buck doesn’t own the restaurant,” Rader says.“I’ve even owned it longer than he did, but people still mistake me for an employee and give me messages for him.”

Rader, 39, says he prefers to stay in the background because he wants to preserve the things that made him fall in love with Buck’s.The Springfield, Missouri native was the general manager at Joe’s Crab Shack when he decided that he wanted to own a restaurant of his own. He looked through a stack of business proposals and Buck’s struck his eye.

Rader checked out Buck’s with his girlfriend (now his wife) Susan Naiser. Originally, she didn’t see the potential that he did.

“She was 100 percent behind me buying a restaurant, just not this restaurant,” he said.“It was dead the night we ate here, but we had a great dinner, good service, and I really liked the way the restaurant was set up. I thought with a few improvements, we could really have something. We haven’t added a whole lot to it, but we have added things. It’s still 80 percent the same as it was eight years ago.”

One of Rader’s biggest changes was adding lunch service. He avoided it for two years, but after taking out a second mortgage on his home and borrowing from family, he knew the restaurant needed to try something drastic. He figured that Buck’s problem was that it didn’t get a lot of evening traffic in its Old Louisville location. He reasoned that lunch would attract people who worked downtown, and they might want to come back for dinner.

It was a good guess.

“We had a trial run where we invited all of our regular dinner customers to have a free lunch,” Rader remembers. “You never know what you forgot until you need it, so this helped us work out the kinks. It went smoothly and we got a good lunch crowd. The night business picked up after that. It was worth all the stress I went through.”

Rader made a few other changes like rearranging the restaurant to deal with multiple parties and making some improvements to the kitchen. But other than that, he still leaves the front of the house for Heath to work his magic.

“I’m like a babysitter and a manager,” Heath explains. “Everybody comes here to see me. Everybody loves Buck’s ’cause I treat them special.” F&D

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people and places profiles

BY MICHAEL L. JONES | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

Let’s Do Lunch – or Breakfast A restaurant pro and a novice get together to create the perfect recipe in Meridian Café

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For Meridian Café co-owners Mike Ross and Heather Yaron, making a menu change can be as political as creating the seating chart for a family reunion. That’s because the dishes on Meridian’s menu are named after their friends, spouses, kids, grandmothers, and former employees: Richard’s Pastrami, Penny’s White Bean Burger, Heddie’s French Toast.These are just a few of the friends and relatives who spend each season wondering if the entrée that bears their name will make the cut.

“Customers are always asking, ‘who are all these people?’” said Ross.“Every time we change the menu my wife gets concerned. She’s like, ‘We’ve got to get their name somewhere else.’ Penny is my wife’s childhood friend who now watches our kiddos. Richard has been on the menu forever. I don’t even know who Richard is.”

Meridian Café, 112 Meridian Avenue, is nestled between the bustling activity of Shelbyville Road and a St. Matthews residential neighborhood. The building is a converted house with a glassed-in front porch. Inside, the walls are painted bright colors, with decor as personalized as the menu. The black-and-white photos on the wall were recovered from the attic, relics of the time when the Café was still a family home.The newer photos were taken by Yaron and her son. An aunt did the mandala paintings scattered about the restaurant.

For Ross, the personal touches create an inviting environment. “It’s like sitting in someone’s home,” he said. “A lot of people have said they keep waiting for

Meridian Café co-owners Mike Ross and Heather Yaron

Meridian

112 Meridian Avenue

someone to poke their head around the corner and tell them to ‘finish up.’ It’s really relaxed, just nice and inviting. I think that’s a reflection of the people we have, from top to bottom.”

Meridian Café first opened in 1997. Since then it has gone through several owners, but Ross, 31, was around for most of those regimes. He got to know Yaron through his wife, Kate, who worked for the Yarons in their import-export firm.

“All I’ve ever done is work in restaurants,” he said.“Everything from fast food to real cooking.” Ross was born in Louisville, but moved around, as he put it — to Texas, Oklahoma and Frankfort, Kentucky. He said he’d worked at the Meridian off and on for years until the last owner decided they wanted to sell.

“I kind of knew how everything worked, all the little quirks of the building,” he said. “I was familiar with all of the regular

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Café 897-9703

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Maddy’s Bagel Sandwich — Roasted salmon with wilted spinach and a herbed egg frittata served open-faced on a toasted bagel. www.foodanddine.com Fall 2008 47

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people and places profiles

BY MICHAEL L. JONES | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

customers already.” And then he realized that he was interested in becoming a partner in owning the restaurant.

When it comes to restaurant experience,Yaron, 45, is at the the other end of the spectrum. She admits to being more comfortable shipping washing machines than carrying a water tray or prepping a kitchen.The former New Yorker moved to Louisville in 1987 to do business — but not in a restaurant. She and her husband, Lior, operate LSY Companies, an import-export firm in which Ross’s wife Kate is the chief financial officer.

Yaron came to Louisville so her company could be closer to General Electric, but it wasn’t until she discovered Meridian Café that she felt as if she’d found a second home.

“My background is basically international trade and distribution,” Yaron said. “I don’t have a background in restaurants. I’m one of those ol’ foodies who liked to eat at Meridian a lot. When I found out the restaurant was up for sale, I said, ‘We need someone cool to buy it.’ I never thought it’d be me.”

Ross and Yaron became owners of the restaurant in June 2006. Yaron handles marketing and public relations, and spends three or four days a week working as a jack-of-all-trades, helping out where needed.

As Ross sees it, Yaron’s business experience and his culinary expertise make them a dynamic team. “The restaurant business is so different every day that it doesn’t matter what your background is,” he said. “You are always learning something new or doing something different.” Of his partnership with Yaron, he said,“I think we’re a good fit. I think that’s proven by the fact that business has doubled since we took over the restaurant.”

Because both of them cherished the Meridian Café the way it was, Yaron said they didn’t want to make any major changes, other than “typical new restaurant stuff — getting everything in place where we wanted it, doing food better, working with the small space. We changed the setup of the kitchen and sandwich preparation, updated recipes, and Mike started doing specials.”

Meridian Café is open for breakfast and lunch. For lunch, there are two daily specials, one vegan and one meat or fish.“One of the attractions to owning the restaurant is that I get to make my own specials instead of someone else’s idea for specials,” Ross said. “A lot of our regulars, that’s what they eat — the specials.

“It’s definitely a challenge trying to get flavor into vegetarian food,” he continued, and “vegan is really hard to do sometimes. But

Penny’s White Bean Burger — House-made burger served with greens, tomato, avocado and tahini on a ciabatta roll.

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they’re a more creative outlet. It’s not as easy as adding butter and meat and cream.”

Favorite Meridian sandwich offerings include the Popeye, with falafel, hummus, onions, spinach, mushrooms, cream cheese, and tahini; and the Brian, with hummus, avocado, Swiss cheese, onion, and tomato. Other standards include paninis.

The restaurant started serving breakfast in September, 2007.

There’s Alana’s fruit turnover for a light breakfast; then there’s the filling Meridian breakfast wrap, a spinach tortilla stuffed with scrambled eggs, black beans, cheddar and provolone cheese, with a side of homemade salsa.

Ross said he wants to offer his customers quick, healthy options.

“There are people who aren’t vegetarians who eat the vegetarian stuff because it’s healthy and tastes good,” he said.“With the exception of breads, we try to make everything in house. It’s definitely a fresher approach, using fresh herbs instead of dried ones. It’s the difference between dried parsley and fresh parsley, a move from reconstituted lemon juice to fresh lemon juice.That’s the major change.

A lot of customers don’t even recognize it. When we first took over we got a lot of, ‘This sandwich tastes better, but I can’t place it.’ That’s definitely shown up in an increase in customer traffic.”

Richard’s Hot Pastrami Sandwich — Pastrami with Swiss cheese, spicy bread and butter pickles, mustard and tomato on rye.

“It’s a small menu, but it’s not your traditional fried eggs,”Yaron added. “You can get fried eggs anywhere. We’re just kind of a departure.”

Meridian Café has two upper rooms available for rental for private parties. Sometimes patrons rent the main dining room for wedding dinners or anniversary parties.These occasions give Ross a chance to stretch his cooking skills, he said — because customers can make some outlandish requests. He’s served everything from hot dogs to a traditional Hawaiian meal. Well, maybe not a contemporary traditional Hawaiian meal.

“I did some research and I learned that they eat a lot of Spam in Hawaii,” Ross said. “We did without the Spam.”

Special events are another step in the evolution of the Meridian.“I think we offer a special ambience,” said Ross.“We want to be a part of our customer’s special moments.”

Yaron says she still finds it hard to believe she owns a restaurant at all — let alone a successful one. “Sometimes I’ll sit at a table when I’m doing something and I’ll think, ‘I’m sitting where I sat when I used to come to lunch here in 1997.’ It’s fun! It’s like ‘Wow!’ Of all the places to be, I’m still at the Meridian!” F&D

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people and places profiles

BY MICHAEL L. JONES | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

A diner Guy Fieri would dive into Mr. Z’s may define the term hole-in-the-wall, but it delivers divine classic comfort food

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Mr. Z’s Kitchen doesn’t look like anyone’s vision of a fine-dining restaurant.The large picture windows that line the front of the building show cracks and disrepair. The green and white flooring and the tables look at least two decades old. And the décor is a mishmash of high and low American culture. Where else will you find pictures of the sophisticated actress Audrey Hepburn sharing wall space with a poster of Britney Spears and a giant close-up of a cheeseburger?

Despite its aesthetic idiosyncrasies, Mr. Z’s is indeed a great restaurant. Its charms combine cheap and tasty American comfort food and a genial atmosphere where everyone feels welcome seven days a week. On weekdays, Mr. Z’s is a regular stop for downtown businessmen in search of a working lunch; city workers short on time; and students getting by on coffee and eggs. On the weekends, residents from the Highlands, Germantown, Old Louisville and beyond crowd in, looking for a cheap and quick brunch after church or a night out on the town.

“I get all kinds of people on this corner,” says owner Zuki Kreso in her distinct Bosnian accent. “I have people who own private jets and people that barely have $2 to pay for coffee. On weekends, I get a lot of families. I like that. I keep pictures of the kids behind the cash register.”

Food and family are the cornerstones of Kreso’s life.

The Kreso family operates Mr. Z’s, and last year purchased a second restaurant, the old Cottage Inn on Eastern Parkway. Zuki, with her husband Zlatko (Mr. Z himself), both sets of their parents, and their daughter Aida, a student at the University of Louisville, all take part.

Kreso’s other daughter, Majda, also worked at the restaurants until she graduated from U of L with a degree in chemistry and recently moved to St. Louis with her fiancé.

“We are busy, but we are together also,” Kreso says of the family. “It is sometimes fun, sometimes not. But there are more better days than bad ones.”

The Kresos are originally from the war-torn country of Bosnia and Herzegovina. In their native land, the family ran a popular eatery, a combination bar and restaurant.

The family came to the United States in 1998, joining Zlatko’s brother who operates an international restaurant in Bardstown. Zuki Kreso remembers there being a large group of people waiting for their train when her family arrived in Kentucky. Originally, she was worried about starting over in a new country, but all of the cheering faces lifted her spirit. Still, it was a challenge learning a new language and different customs.

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A number of the down-home dishes served up at Mr. Z’s.

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The Kresos spent two years in Bardstown, gaining the confidence needed to open a restaurant of their own. Unfortunately, as immigrants with no credit history in the U.S., they found it impossible to get a business loan. So Zlatko searched for a place that they could buy outright. He found it in Louisville: the former Barbara Lee’s Kitchen, 869 S.Third St. They purchased the restaurant in 2000 and christened it Mr. Z’s.

One question the Kreso family often has to answer is, why didn’t they open a Bosnian restaurant? Both Mr. Z’s and Cottage Inn serve traditional American comfort food.

Mr. Z’s menu is full of breakfast specials that include combinations of pancakes, waffles, eggs, hash browns, bacons, and sausage.The most exotic Mr. Z’s fried fish platter thing on the restaurant’s lunch menu is a gyros, which is also pretty common in these parts. Mr. Z’s Kitchen has a steam table where a patron can get an entrée and two sides for $5.50, and even there the selections run toward meatloaf, fried chicken, and liver.

The Kreso family took over restaurants that offered American home cooking, and the family never saw a need to change them.

Besides, it wasn’t hard for the Kresos to get accustomed to the local palette.“In Bosnia, we eat eggs for breakfast,” Zuki Kreso says.

“I used to make French toast but it was salty, not sweet like it is here. We also eat lots of cheese. Some of the things on Mr. Z’s

menu, I changed the recipes to back home. I make the cabbage the way I made it in Bosnia.”

Samella “Tiny” Jones, a longtime Mr. Z’s employee and namesake of a popular menu item (“Tiny’s Slamming Breakfast,” which consists of two eggs, two pancakes, hash browns, and bacon or sausage), says most customers assume the Kresos grew up making hash browns and biscuits and gravy.

Jones admits, “I showed them about all of the American cooking and now they cook it better than I do.”

Zuki Kreso’s transition to American life has gone smoothly because she is an extremely social person and a natural storyteller. If she ever tires of the restaurant business, she probably has a future in comedy.

Although English is her second won’t leave you hungry. language, she has pitch-perfect timing.

Her favorite subject is, of course, her family and the headaches they give her. A few months ago when she was hobbling around Mr. Z’s Kitchen after being in a car accident, Kreso complained that her husband and daughters were not showing enough sympathy. “Z says I should be happy because he brought me a new car,” Kreso remarked.“But I said,‘I don’t need a new car.

I need a new back.’ He got me a new Nissan. It is a small car, but I don’t care because my children are grown; they don’t want to ride with me anymore. They just want my keys so they can leave without me.”

Mr. Z’s

The Zs in Mr. Z’s — owners Zlatko and Zuki Kreso.

Kitchen 584-8504 869 S. Third Street Although she has made many accommodations to American culture, she continues to practice Old World manners.

Ever y customer at Mr. Z’s Kitchen is treated like a guest in her home. Most of them can’t pronounce her name, so the regulars know her affectionately as Mrs. Z. And many of them have colorful stories about her. Kreso has been known to sit down at a table and start quizzing complete strangers about their lives.

Last year, a real estate company bought the building that houses Mr. Z’s.

There are plans to renovate it, and the restaurant may even have to close for a short while when that happens. Kreso says Mr. Z’s Kitchen may get a new set of clothes, but it will still be the same inside.

In fact, the place is like a second home to her. She says, “It is a funny place, always some action and some laughs.” F&D www.foodanddine.com Fall 2008 51

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recipes cooking class

PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

If Cooking is Art then Baking is Science ❍ ❍ ❍

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It’s true, says Chef Jim Quinter, instructor in the baking and pastry program at Sullivan University. “Pastry vs. savory is science vs. art. It’s science in terms of every ingredient has to be measured accurately or it won’t come out right.

“To put a pinch of this and throw some of that into a stew is not a problem, but with pastry we can’t do that.The culinary side is driven by taste; the baking side is more science, but in either case, the art comes out in the presentation,” said Quinter, who was professionally trained in pastry back home in Philadelphia but also worked the savory side in restaurants in Oldham County before he came to Sullivan.

Indeed. Food & Dining invited Quinter and his Sullivan baking-and-pastry colleague, Chef Max Klopfer, to dazzle us with works of baking science and beauty for this edition, and they came through in fine style, creating a fine assortment of cakes, cookies and a French-inspired tart that you can fashion at home.

Quinter says he let the season be his guide, with autumn prompting thoughts of cheesecake based on ripe, plump

Apple Tarte Tatin

52 Fall 2008 www.foodanddine.com

pumpkins and delicate cookies scented with seasonal fresh lavender, a recipe legacy from his grandmother, Esther Culley. It’s a treat perfect to serve with hot tea on a blustery afternoon.

Klopfer, a native of Munich in Southern Germany’s Bavaria, began his career in Europe and presents a classic French apple Tarte Tatin, which he described as “a very simple recipe, a peasant, poor people’s recipe, popular in France for hundreds and hundreds of years.”

For his second dish, Klopfer turned from the traditional to the modern, offering Chocolate Cake with Smoked Chocolate Ganache, a wild blend of chocolate and smoke flavors. He came up with the innovative notion when he was executive chef at Nashville’s Opryland Hotel before he joined the staff at Sullivan in 2006.

“I tried it out once and people really liked it,” he said.

“Smoked chocolate is something different, people don’t see every day. It sounded very interesting. We tried it out and it was great.”

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Pumpkin Cheesecake

Lavender Sugar Cookies

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Guest Chef

Jim Quinter Pumpkin Cheesecake (MAKES TWO 8-INCH CAKES)

11/2 9 3 11/2 1 1 1 1 /4

pounds cream cheese ounces granulated sugar whole eggs pounds pumpkin puree teaspoon cinnamon teaspoon ginger teaspoon ground nutmeg cup ground toasted almonds

Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Prepare two 8-inch cake pans with a spritz of oil or pan spray and parchment paper cut to fit.

Using either a hand mixer or stand mixer, soften the cream cheese. Scrape down the bowl very well to ensure there are no lumps. Add the sugar to the softened cream cheese and continue beating until the batter is light and fluffy. Add the eggs, one at a time, mixing them into the batter well. Add the pumpkin puree and the cinnamon, ginger and nutmeg; mix until the batter is smooth and ingredients are evenly distributed. Reserve the ground toasted almonds for the final assembly later.

Divide batter evenly between the two pans. Bake in a water bath to keep the cakes from cracking: Place the cake pans on a baking sheet or pan with sides at least 1-inch high. Fill the baking sheets with sufficient hot water to come halfway up the sides. Bake the cakes for approximately 60 minutes. The cheesecake is done when it seems solid in the pan; it should not ripple like water. Cool; then freeze them so they will be easier to de-pan and place on the cookie base.

Cookie Base Start with the same cookie dough recipe as the Lavender Cookies from the next column, but omit the lavender.

Sprinkle your work surface with flour, then roll out the dough to a little less than a 1/ 4 inch thick, and cut from it an 8-inch round. Transfer to a baking sheet covered with parchment paper and bake at 350 degrees for 10 to 12 minutes until 54 Fall 2008 www.foodanddine.com

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the cookie base star ts to turn golden brown.

Marzipan pumpkins Your grocer should have marzipan, an almond paste, in either an 8-ounce log or a 1-pound tub. Color about three-fourths of it with orange food coloring and onefour th of it with green. Shape 1/2-ounce portions of it into tiny orange pumpkins with green stems. If you wish to give the pumpkins a nice shine, glaze them with a mixture of corn syrup and water.

dry out the dough. Roll the dough to about 1 /8 inch. Cut in shapes of your choice and place the cookies on a sheet pan covered with parchment paper.

Chill the cookies for five minutes before baking. Spray a light mist of water on the cookies so the sanding sugar will stick. Freely sprinkle the sanding sugar on top, then bake for 8 to 10 minutes. The cookies will start to turn golden brown around the edges when they are done. A good sugar cookie should have very little color. Allow to cool on wire rack.

Assembly When everything is prepared, brush the top of the cookie base with a little corn syrup so the cheesecake won’t slide. Place the cheesecake pan in warm water and slide a paring knife around the edge of the cake pan to loosen the cake so you can turn it onto a plate. Turn it from the plate onto the cookie base. Press some of the ground almonds from the ingredient list onto the sides of the cheesecake. Pipe a dozen whipped cream rosettes on top of the cake, and place a marzipan pumpkin on each rosette for garnish.

Lavender Sugar Cookies (MAKES THREE DOZEN COOKIES)

12 2 4 8 2 1 1 /4

ounces all-purpose flour teaspoons baking powder ounces unsalted butter ounces granulated sugar medium whole eggs (or 11/2 large) teaspoon vanilla extract ounce lavender Sugar for garnish (Sanding sugar, a coarse sugar used for decorating, is best.You can find it in the baking aisle at most well-stocked groceries.)

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Sift the flour and baking powder together and set aside.

With a mixer, cream the butter and sugar together until light and fluffy. Scrape down the bowl, and add the eggs and vanilla. Coarsely chop the lavender and add to the mixture. Add the dry ingredients and mix until it forms a dough ball. Remove dough, wrap in plastic and chill for about 15 minutes.

Once dough has been chilled you can roll it out and cut your desired shapes.

Sprinkle a small amount of all-purpose flour on your work surface before rolling out the dough, but take care, too much will

Guest Chef

Max Klopfer Apple Tarte Tatin (MAKES ONE 8-INCH TART OR TWO 4-INCH TARTS)

1 2 2 3 /4

recipe pâte sucrée (below) large green apples teaspoons butter cup sugar Juice of one lemon

On a floured work surface, roll out the pâte sucrée (see below) into a 9-inch circle, place it in a buttered 8-inch tart shell, trim the sides of the shell neatly and refrigerate.

Peel, core and slice each apple in half.

Slice each section into 6 pieces and toss in lemon juice. Set aside for now.

Melt butter, sugar and lemon juice together in a skillet until the mixture turns a light caramel color. Be careful not to overcook. Sauté the apples in the mixture until three-fourths done, then arrange the apples into your tart shell.

Preheat oven to 400 degrees and bake the tart for about 15 minutes or just until the dough is golden brown. Cool tart and remove carefully from pan, taking care not to tear or break the tart.

Pâte Sucrée (sugar dough) 1 stick unsalted butter 1 tablespoon sugar 1 egg 5 ounces ice water 11/4 cups flour 1 /4 teaspoon salt

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Combine the butter and sugar in a mixing bowl and mix until creamy.

Add the egg and water and mix. Add flour and salt and mix, taking care not to overmix. Take out of the bowl and wrap the dough in plastic wrap. Chill for 30 minutes in the refrigerator while preparing your apple mixture.

This pâte sucrée recipe makes one 8-inch tar t or two 4-inch tar ts.

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Chocolate Cake with Smoked Chocolate Ganache

Chocolate Cake with Smoked Chocolate Ganache (MAKES TWO 9-INCH LAYER CAKES)

2 1 1 2 3 /4 2 1 1 1 2 1

cups all-purpose flour teaspoon salt teaspoon baking powder teaspoon baking soda cup unsweetened cocoa cups granulated sugar cup vegetable oil cup hot coffee cup milk whole eggs teaspoon Bourbon

Sift all dr y ingredients in a mixing bowl together, sifting twice to ensure a fine sift. Add the vegetable oil, coffee, and milk, and mix at medium speed for two minutes. Add the eggs and Bourbon and beat two more minutes.

The batter will be thin. Pour it into two greased and floured 9-inch cake pans, or two 8-inch cake pans plus six muffin cups.

Bake at 325 degrees for 25 to 30 minutes. On wire racks, cool cakes 15 minutes before removing from pans.

Smoked Chocolate Ganache Frosting 2 pounds semi-sweet chocolate, grated 1 pint fresh whipping cream 6 ounces Bourbon 1 drop “liquid smoke” Grate the chocolate into a stainlesssteel mixing bowl. Add cream, place over a double boiler and bring up to 160 degrees. Whisk until very well mixed; add the Bourbon and whisk until smooth.

Cool thoroughly.

When you are ready to frost the cake, beat the frosting until fluffy before using. F&D www.foodanddine.com Fall 2008 55

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Alphabetical Index

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ALL RESTAURANTS ARE LISTED ALPHABETICALLY, FOLLOWED BY THE PAGE NUMBER OF ITS REVIEW, THE CUISINE STYLE, AND THE CORRESPONDING MAP NUMBER(S).

UNMAPPED [ ] DENOTES MULTIPLE LOCATIONS.

Cuisine Style

RESTAURANT

dining guide

AFRICAN 74 ASIAN/CHINESE 74 ASIAN/FILIPINO 75 ASIAN/JAPANESE 75 ASIAN/KOREAN 76 ASIAN/THAI 76 ASIAN/VIETNAMESE 76 BAR & GRILL 73 BARBECUE 72 BISTRO/CONTEMPORARY 63 CAFÉS 64 CAFETERIAS 69 CAJUN/CREOLE 79 CARIBBEAN/CUBAN 79 CASUAL DINING 66 COFFEE HOUSE 80 DESSERTS/BAKERY 81 ENTERTAINMENT DINING 69 EUROPEAN/BOSNIAN 77 EUROPEAN/GERMAN 77 EUROPEAN/IRISH 77 EUROPEAN/ITALIAN 77 EUROPEAN/SPANISH 78 FINE DINING 60 HOME STYLE/SOUTHERN 68 INDIAN 78 MEXICAN 79 MICROBREWERIES 74 MIDDLE EASTERN 78 PIZZA 69 SANDWICH/DELI 70 SEAFOOD 65 SOUTHWEST/TEX MEX 80 STEAKHOUSE 66 UPSCALE CASUAL 61

Area Maps MAP # DIRECTION

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16

82 PG #

Overview (Index)

82

Downtown

84

Near East

85

East

86

South East

87

East

88

(Downtown Louisville) (Highlands – Crescent Hill) (St. Matthews) (Hikes Point – Buechel) (Hurstbourne N. – Lyndon)

South East

89 (Hurstbourne S. – Jeffersontown) North East 90 (River Rd. – Brownsboro Rd.) North East 90 (Westport Rd.) Far East 91 (Middletown) North East 91 (Prospect) South East 91 (Fern Creek) South 92 (Airport – Okolona) South West 93 (Shively – Pleasure Ridge Park) Indiana 94 (New Albany – Floyds Knobs) Indiana 95 (Clarksville) Indiana 95 (Jeffersonville)

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PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE

#1 Asian Buffet 74 211 Clover Lane 60 60 West Bistro 61 610 Magnolia 60 732 Social 61 8 China Buffet 74 A Nice Restaurant 66 A Taste of China 74 A.J.’s Coffee & Cream 80 Adriann’s Around the Table 64 Adrienne & Co. Bakery Café 81 Adrienne’s Italian 77 Al Watan 78 Alexander’s Pizzeria 69 Amazing Grace Deli 70 Amerigo 77 Amici´ 77 Angelina’s Café 77 Angilo’s Pizza 69 Angio’s Restaurant 69 Ann’s by the River 69 Annie Café 76 Annie’s Pizza 69 Another Place 70 Applebee’s 66 Arni’s Pizza 69 Aroma Café 64 Artemisia 61 Asahi Japanese 75 Asian Buffet 74 Asiatique 61 Atrium Café 63 August Moon 74 Austin’s 61 Avalon 61 B.J.’s Restaurant & Brewhouse 66 Babby’s Steakhouse 66 Backyard Burger 70 The Bakery 81 Bamboo House 74 Bank Shot Billiards 70 Barbara Lee’s Kitchen 68 Basa Modern Vietnamese 61 Baxter Station 63 Bazos Mexican Grill 79 bd’s Mongolian Grill 74 Bean Street Café 8o Bearno’s Pizza 69 Beef O’Brady’s 73 Behar Café 77 Beijing Grill & Sushi Bar 75 Bendoya Sushi Bar 75 Bentley’s Sports Grille 73 Big Al’s Beeritaville 73 Big Momma’s Soul Kitchen 68 Bistro 301 63 Blackstone Grile 61 Blimpie’s Subs 70 BLU Mediterranean Grille 61 Blue Dog Bakery 64 Blue Mountain Wine Bar 64 Blue Mule Sports Café 73 Blue Nile Ethiopian 74 Bluegrass Bistro 63 Bluegrass Brewing Co. 74 Bluegrass Grill & Bar 66 Bombay Grill 78 Bonefish Grill 65 Bootleg Barbecue Co. 72 Bosna-Mak 77 Bourbons Bistro 63 Brandon’s Bar-B-Que 72 Bravo!

61 Breadworks 81 Brendan’s Restaurant & Pub 77 Bristol Bar & Grille 61 Brix Wine Bar 63 Brown Bag Deli 70 Brownie’s Grille & Bar 73 Bruce’s Smokehouse 72 Bruno’s Pizza 69 Bruno’s Pizzeria & Pub 69 Buca Di Beppo 77 Buck’s 60 Buckhead Mountain Grill 66 Buenos Dias Café 79 Buffalo Wild Wings 73 Buffalo Wings & Rings 73

MAP #

Asian/Chinese 2 Fine Dining 3 Upscale Casual 3 Fine Dining 1 Upscale Casual 1 Asian/Chinese 6 Casual Dining 14, 16 Asian/Chinese 1 Coffee House 14 Cafés 9 Desserts/Bakery 16 European/Italian 16 Middle Eastern 4 Pizza 16 Sandwich/Deli 2 European/Italian 5 European/Italian 1 European/Italian 5 Pizza 13 Pizza 4 Cafeterias 16 Asian/Vietnamese 12 Pizza 1, 13 Sandwich/Deli 1 Casual Dining [8] Pizza 14 Cafés 14 Upscale Casual 1 Asian/Japanese 3 Asian/Chinese 4, 14, 15 Upscale Casual 2 Bistro/Contemporary 5 Asian/Chinese 2 Upscale Casual 7 Upscale Casual 2 Casual Dining 5 Steakhouse 16 Sandwich/Deli 6, 7 Desserts/Bakery 4 Asian/Chinese 12 Sandwich/Deli 1 Home Style/Southern 2 Upscale Casual 2 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Mexican 3 Asian/Chinese 6 Coffee House 14 Pizza [13] Bar & Grill 8, 9, 12, 14, 15 European/Bosnian 12 Asian/Japanese 14 Asian/Japanese 1 Bar & Grill 1 Bar & Grill 2 Home Style/Southern 1 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Upscale Casual 10 Sandwich/Deli 2 Upscale Casual 1 Cafés 2 Cafés 1 Bar & Grill 6 African 1 Bistro/Contemporary 4 Microbreweries 1, 3 Casual Dining 7 Indian 5 Seafood 5 Barbecue 11, 12 European/Bosnian 4 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Barbecue 8 Upscale Casual 3 Desserts/Bakery 2, 7, 9 European/Irish 3 Upscale Casual 1, 2, 5, 10, 16 Bistro/Contemporary 8 Sandwich/Deli 1 Bar & Grill 5 Barbecue 4 Pizza 14 Pizza 12 European/Italian 6 Fine Dining 1 Casual Dining 4,8, 12, 16 Mexican 15 Bar & Grill 2,3, 6, 8, 9, 13 Bar & Grill 8

RESTAURANT

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE

Bulldog Café 64 Butcher’s Best Deli 70 Butterfly Garden Café 64 Cachito Mio Cuban Café 79 Café 360 78 Café Fraiche 64 Café Lou Lou 63 Café Magnolia 66 Café Metro 60 Café Mimosa 76 Café Thuy Van 76 Caffe Classico 80 Cake Flour 81 California Pizza Kitchen 69 Calistoga Bakery Café 70 Cancun Mexican Grill 79 Captain’s Quarters 66 Cardinal Hall of Fame Café 66 Carly Rae’s 66 Carolina Shrimp & Seafood 65 Carolyn’s 68 Carrabba’s Italian Grille 77 Caspian Grill Persian Bistro 78 Cat Box Deli 70 Catfish Haven Restaurant 65 Caviar Japanese Rest.

61 Champions Grill 66 Champion’s Sports Rest. 73 Charlestown Pizza Co. 69 Chatter’s Bar & Grill 73 Check’s Café 68 Cheddar Box Café 64 Cheddar’s Casual Café 66 The Cheesecake Factory 61 Chez Seneba African 74 The Chicago Gyro 70 Chick Inn 66 The Chicken House 68 Chicken King 68 Chili’s 67 China 1 74 China Buffet 74 China Castle 74 China Garden 74 China Inn 74 China King 74 China Taste 74 Chinese Chef 74 Chinese Express 74 Chong Garden 74 Chopsticks 74 Chopsticks House 74 Chrisanta’s Café 64 Chung King 74 Cici’s 69 City Café 64 Clark Boy Bar-B-Que 72 Clarksville Seafood 65 Clifton’s Pizza 69 Club Grotto 61 Coach Lamp 61 Coco’s Bakery 81 CoCo’s Chocolate Café 81 Coffee Crossing 80 Coffee Pot Café 80 Colonnade Café 64 Come Back Inn 77 Connor’s Place 73 Corbett’s ‘an American place’ 60 Corner Café 62 Cottage Café 68 Cottage Inn 68 Crave Café & Catering 64 Cravings a la Carte 69 Creekside Outpost & Café 64 Crystal Chinese 74 Culver’s 67 Cumberland Brews 74 Cunningham’s 67 Cup Of Sunshine 64 The Cupcake Shoppe 81 Cutter’s Wharf 67 Cyclers Café 64 Dakshin Indian Restaurant 78 Danish Express Pastries 70 Danny Boy’s 73 Danny Mac’s Pasta & Pizza 69 Day’s Espresso 80 De La Torre’s 78 Del Frisco’s 66 Delta Restaurant 73 Derby Café 64 Derby City Dogs 70 Derby City Espresso 80 Derby Dinner Playhouse 69 Desserts By Helen 81 The Dessert Gallery 81 Devino’s 71 Diamond Pub & Billiards 73 Dinner Is Done 68

MAP #

Cafés 12 Sandwich/Deli 10 Cafés 2 Caribbean/Cuban 8 Middle Eastern 2 Cafés 7 Bistro/Contemporary 2,3 Casual Dining 1 Fine Dining 2 Asian/Vietnamese 2 Asian/Vietnamese 12 Coffee House 2 Desserts/Bakery 1 Pizza 5 Sandwich/Deli 1,3 Mexican 6 Casual Dining 10 Casual Dining 12 Casual Dining 1 Seafood 3 Home Style/Southern 13 European/Italian 5 Middle Eastern 2 Sandwich/Deli 1 Seafood 13 Upscale Casual 1 Casual Dining 16 Bar & Grill 1 Pizza 16 Bar & Grill 6 Home Style/Southern 1 Cafés 9 Casual Dining 8, 15 Upscale Casual 3 African 12 Sandwich/Deli 2 Casual Dining 10 Home Style/Southern 14 Home Style/Southern 1 Casual Dining 4, 5, 8, 12 Asian/Chinese 3 Asian/Chinese 15 Asian/Chinese 13 Asian/Chinese 12 Asian/Chinese 1 Asian/Chinese 6 Asian/Chinese 16 Asian/Chinese 1 Asian/Chinese 13 Asian/Chinese 13 Asian/Chinese 1 Asian/Chinese 1 Cafés 2 Asian/Chinese 1 Pizza 4, 14 Cafés 1, 2 Barbecue 13 Seafood 15 Pizza 2 Upscale Casual 2 Upscale Casual 1 Desserts/Bakery 12 Desserts/Bakery 2 Coffee House 14 Coffee House 1 Cafés 1 European/Italian 1, 16 Bar & Grill 14 Fine Dining 8 Upscale Casual 5 Home Style/Southern 9 Home Style/Southern 1 Cafés 2 Cafeterias 1 Cafés 14 Asian/Chinese 1 Casual Dining 6 Microbreweries 2 Casual Dining 1, 10 Cafés 16 Desserts/Bakery 3 Casual Dining 10 Cafés 2 Indian 11 Sandwich/Deli 3 Bar & Grill 16 Pizza 2 Coffee House 2 European/Spanish 2 Steakhouse 3 Bar & Grill 1 Cafés 12 Sandwich/Deli 2 Coffee House 1 Entertainment Dining 16 Desserts/Bakery 2, 10 Desserts/Bakery 5 Sandwich/Deli 1 Bar & Grill 3 Home Style/Southern 6

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Dino’s Down to Lunch 71 Sandwich/Deli 1 Ditto’s Grill 63 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Dizzy Whizz Drive-In 71 Sandwich/Deli 1 D’Nalley’s Restaurant 68 Home Style/Southern 1 Domino’s Pizza 69 Pizza [20] Don Pablos 79 Mexican 15 Dooley’s Bagels 71 Sandwich/Deli 3, 7 Double Dragon 74 Asian/Chinese 2 Double Dragon II 74 Asian/Chinese 5, 8, 11, 12 Double Dragon 8 74 Asian/Chinese 1 Double Dragon 9 74 Asian/Chinese 6 Double Dragon Buffet 74 Asian/Chinese 5 Dynasty Buffet 74 Asian/Chinese 7 Eastern House 74 Asian/Chinese 13 Eggroll Machine 74 Asian/Chinese 2 El Burrito de Oro 79 Mexican 15 El Caporal 79 Mexican 4,6,12,15 El Mundo 79 Mexican 2 El Nopal 79 Mexican 6, 8, 9, 12, 14 El Nopalito 79 Mexican 2, 4, 11 El Rey Mexican 79 Mexican 4 El Rodeo Mexican 79 Mexican 13 El Tarasco 79 Mexican 3, 5, 6, 12 El Toro Resaurante Mexicano 79 Mexican 6 Emperor of China 74 Asian/Chinese 7 Empress of China 75 Asian/Chinese 4 The English Grill 60 Fine Dining 1 Equus 60 Fine Dining 3 Erika’s German Rest.

77 European/German 6 Ermin’s Bakery & Café 64 Cafés 1, 10, 14 Ernesto’s 79 Mexican 3, 5, 6 Expressions of You 80 Coffee House 1 The Falafel House 78 Middle Eastern 2 Famous Dave’s Bar-B-Que 72 Barbecue 6, 15 Fat Daddy’s Pizza 69 Pizza 12 Fat Jimmy’s 69 Pizza 1, 2, 9 Federal Hill 64 Cafés 14 Feed Bag Deli 71 Sandwich/Deli 3 Fiesta Time Mexican Grill 79 Mexican 8 Fifth Quarter 66 Steakhouse 12 Finley’s BBQ 72 Barbecue 1 Fire Fresh Bar B Q 72 Barbecue 1, 11, 13 Fireside Bar & Grill 67 Casual Dining 14 First Wok 75 Asian/Chinese 13 The Fish House 65 Seafood 2 The Fishery 65 Seafood 3 Flabby’s Schnitzelburg 73 Bar & Grill 1 Flanagans Ale House 73 Bar & Grill 2 Fork in the Road 68 Home Style/Southern 13 Four King’s Café 73 Bar & Grill 4 Fox & Hound 73 Bar & Grill 3 Frascelli’s N.Y. Deli & Pizza 71 Sandwich/Deli 7 Fresco Southwest Grill & Pizza 69 Pizza 1 Frolio’s Pizza 69 Pizza 12 Frontier Diner 68 Home Style/Southern 13 Fuji Japanese Steakhouse 75 Asian/Japanese 8, 9 Fun Food Café 64 Cafés 2 Furlong’s 79 Cajun/Creole 5 Gasthaus 77 European/German 7 Gavi’s Restaurant 67 Casual Dining 1 Genny’s Diner 68 Home Style/Southern 2 Gerstle’s Place 73 Bar & Grill 3 Gilman’s Point 62 Upscale Casual 3 Golden Buddha 75 Asian/Chinese 12 Golden Corral 68 Home Style/Southern 4,12,15 Golden Palace 75 Asian/Chinese 13 Golden Star Chinese 75 Asian/Chinese 13 Golden Wall 75 Asian/Chinese 12 Goose Creek Diner 67 Casual Dining 8 Granny’s Apron 68 Home Style/Southern 13 Granville Inn 73 Bar & Grill 1 Grape Leaf 78 Middle Eastern 2 Grapevine Pantry 64 Cafés 9 Great American Grill 73 Bar & Grill 12 Great Life Café 71 Cafés 6,8,15 Great Wall 75 Asian/Chinese 2 Great Wok 75 Asian/Chinese 1 Hall’s Cafeteria 69 Cafeterias 2 Hanabi Japanese Restaurant 75 Asian/Japanese 10 Happy Dragon 75 Asian/Chinese 1 Hard Rock Café 63 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Havana Rumba 79 Caribbean/Cuban 3 Hazelwood Restaurant 68 Home Style/Southern 13 Heavenly Ham 71 Sandwich/Deli 14 Heine Brothers Coffee 80 Coffee House 2, 3 Heitzman Bakery & Deli 81 Desserts/Bakery 5 Highland Coffee Co. 80 Coffee House 2 Hiko A Mon Sushi Bar 75 Asian/Japanese 7 Hill Street Fish Fry 65 Seafood 1 Hitching Post Inn 73 Bar & Grill 11 Hobknobb Roasting Co. 80 Coffee House 14 Homerun Burgers & Fries 67 Casual Dining 6 Hometown Buffet 68 Home Style/Southern 6, 3 Hometown Pizza 69 Pizza 7, 9 Honeybaked Café 71 Sandwich/Deli 3, 11 Hong Kong Chinese 75 Asian/Chinese 14 Hong Kong Fast Food 75 Asian/Chinese 12 Hoops Grill and Sports Bar 73 Bar & Grill 12 Hooters 67 Casual Dining 3,12,13,15,16 Howl at the Moon 69 Entertainment Dining 1 www.foodanddine.com Fall 2008 57

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Hunan Wok 75 Ice Breakers 73 Ichiban Samurai 75 IHOP 67 Incredible Dave’s 69 Indi’s Restaurant 68 India Palace 78 Indigo Joe’s Sports Pub 73 Intermezzo Café & Cabaret 62 The Irish Rover 77 Iroquois Pizza 69 Islamorada Fish Co. 65 J. Alexander’s 62 J. Graham’s Café 64 J. Gumbo’s 79 J. Harrods 62 J Train Pizza & Pub 69 Jack Binion’s Steakhouse 60 Jack Fry’s 62 Jack’s Lounge 63 Jade Garden Buffet 75 Jade Palace 75 Jake’s & Mr. G’s 73 Jane’s Cafeteria 69 Jarfi’s Bistro 62 Jarfi’s Café 64 Jarfi’s at Glenmary 62 Jasmine 75 Jason’s Deli 71 Java Brewing Co. 80 Jeff Ruby’s Steakhouse 66 Jennica’s Café & Wine Bar 64 Jersey Mike’s Subs 71 Jersey’s Café 73 Jessie’s Restaurant 69 Jimbo’s BBQ 72 Jimmy John’s Sub Shop 71 Jockamo’s Pizza Pub 70 Joe Huber Restaurant 69 Joe Muggs 80 Joe’s Crab Shack 65 Joe’s O.K. Bayou 79 Joe’s Older Than Dirt 67 John E’s 62 JoJo’s Fish Market 65 Juanita’s Burger Boy 71 Jucy’s Smokehouse 72 Jumbo Buffet 75 Just Fresh Bakery & Café 71 Kaelin’s Restaurant 67 Kansai Japanese Rest.

75 Karem’s 67 Karma Café 67 Kashmir Indian 78 Kayrouz Café 64 KC’s Chicago Hotdog Stand 71 Kentucky BBQ Co. 72 Kern’s Korner 67 King Wok 75 Kingfish 65 Kings Fast Food 69 King’s Fried Chicken 69 Kobe Japanese Steak 76 Koreana II 76 Kreso’s Restaurant 62 KT’s 62 L&N Wine Bar and Bistro 63 La Bamba 79 La Bodega 78 La Gallo Rosso Bistro 77 La Herradura 79 La Monarca 79 La Perla del Pacifico 79 La Que 77 La Rosita Taqueria 79 La Tapatia 79 La Vida Java Coffee Co. 80 Lancaster’s Cafeteria 69 Las Gorditas 79 Le Relais 60 Lee’s Korean 76 Legend’s 67 Lemongrass Café 77 Liang’s Café 75 The Lighthouse 74 Lil’ Loafers Bakery 71 Lilly’s 60 Limestone 60 Ling Ling 75 Little Caesar’s Pizza 70 Little Chef 71 Liu’s Garden 75 Logan’s Roadhouse 66 Lolitas Tacos Inc. 79 Longhorn Steakhouse 66 Lonnie’s Taste Chicago 71 Los Aztecas 79 Lotsa Pasta 71 Louisville Pizza Co. 70 Lucky Strike Lanes 69

2:00 PM

MAP #

Asian/Chinese 11 Bar & Grill 1 Asian/Japanese 6 Casual Dining 15 Entertainment Dining 8 Home Style/Southern 1,3,12 Indian 5, 15 Bar & Grill 7 Upscale Casual 1 European/Irish 2, 7 Pizza 13 Seafood 15 Upscale Casual 3 Cafés 1 Cajun/Creole 1, 2,5, 6, 8,12,13 Upscale Casual 10 Pizza 16 Fine Dining 14 Upscale Casual 2 Bistro/Contemporary 3 Asian/Chinese 2 Asian/Chinese 7 Bar & Grill 5 Cafeterias 4 Upscale Casual 2 Cafés 1 Upscale Casual 11 Asian/Chinese 9 Sandwich/Deli 5 Coffee House 1, 2, 9, 10 Steakhouse 1 Cafés 1 Sandwich/Deli 5, 6, 8 Bar & Grill 15 Home Style/Southern 13 Barbecue 12 Sandwich/Deli 1, 2, 3, 6 Pizza 1 Entertainment Dining 14 Coffee House 3, 8 Seafood 1 Cajun/Creole 6, 14 Casual Dining 5 Upscale Casual 4 Seafood 4 Sandwich/Deli 1 Barbecue 3 Asian/Chinese 6 Sandwich/Deli 2 Casual Dining 2 Asian/Japanese 15 Casual Dining 3, 8 Casual Dining 2 Indian 2 Cafés 3 Sandwich/Deli 2 Barbecue 2 Casual Dining 2 Asian/Chinese 3 Seafood 6, 7, 16 Home Style/Southern 13 Home Style/Southern 1 Asian/Japanese 16 Asian/Korean 12 Upscale Casual 12 Upscale Casual 2 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Mexican 2 European/Spanish 2 European/Italian 2 Mexican 15 Mexican 11 Mexican 8, 12 Asian/Vietnamese 2 Mexican 14, 15 Mexican 2 Coffee House 7 Cafeterias 14 Mexican 11 Fine Dining 4 Asian/Korean 12 Casual Dining 14 Asian/Vietnamese 3, 9 Asian/Chinese 8 Bar & Grill 16 Sandwich/Deli 12 Fine Dining 2 Fine Dining 5 Asian/Chinese 5 Pizza 6, 8, 11, 12 Sandwich/Deli 14 Asian/Chinese 9 Steakhouse 3, 13, 15 Mexican 12 Steakhouse 6, 8, 15 Sandwich/Deli 1, 3 Mexican 1, 7, 10 Sandwich/Deli 3 Pizza 6 Entertainment Dining 1

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RESTAURANT

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE

Luigi’s Lunch Today Lylia’s Encore Lynn’s Paradise Café Ma Zerellas Macca’s Florida Seafood Maggie’s Neighborhood Bar Mai’s Thai Restaurant Maido Essential Japanese Main Eatery Main Street Café & Treats Maker’s Mark Lounge Manhattan Grill Marcello’s Mark’s Feed Store Market Street Fish House Martini Italian Bistro Masterson’s Max & Erma’s Mayan Café Mazzoni’s Oyster Café McAlister’s Deli Melillo’s The Melting Pot Meridian Café Mexican Fiesta Mexicano Mexico Tipico Michael Murphy’s Mike Linnig’s Mimi’s Café Mitchell’s Fish Market Moe’s Southwest Grill Mojito Tapas Restaurant Molly Malone’s The Monkey Wrench Morris Deli & Catering Morton’s of Chicago Mr. Gattis Mr. Lou’s Mr. Z’s Kitchen My Bar My Favorite Muffin My Old KY Dinner Train Nancy’s Bagel Box Nancy’s Bagel Grounds Napa River Grill New Albanian Brewing Co. New China New Direction Bar & Grill Ninny’s-N-New Albany Norma Jean’s Trackside North End Café NV Tavern O’Charley’s O’Dolly’s O’Shea’s Irish Pub Oak Street Pizza The Oakroom Oceanside Restaurant Oishii Sushi Old Chicago Pasta & Pizza Old Louisville Coffee House Old Spaghetti Factory Old Stone Inn Ole Hickory Pit BBQ The Olive Garden Olivia’s Restaurant Ollie’s Trolley On the Border Onion Rest.Tea House Orchid Asian Café Orders Up Café & Deli Oriental Express Oriental House Oriental Star Original Impellizzeri’s Osaka Sushi Bar Otto’s Café Our Best Restaurant Outback Steakhouse P. F. Chang’s China Bistro Pa Pa Murphy’s Pizza Palermo Viejo Panda Chinese Panera Bread Co. Papa Johns Pizza Passtime Fish House Pat’s Steak House The Patron PattiCakes Café Paul’s Fruit Market Penn Station Peppers Bar and Grill Perkfection Pesto’s Italian Pho Binh Minh Piccadilly Cafeteria Picnicaters BBQ The Pie Pantry

MAP #

70 Pizza 1 71 Sandwich/Deli 16 62 Upscale Casual 1 67 Casual Dining 2 70 Pizza 15 65 Seafood 7 74 Bar & Grill 6 76 Asian/Thai 16 76 Asian/Japanese 2 71 Sandwich/Deli 1 64 Cafés 14 62 Upscale Casual 1 67 Casual Dining 1 78 European/Italian 2 72 Barbecue 2, 9, 13, 14 66 Seafood 14 78 European/Italian 8 67 Casual Dining 1 67 Casual Dining 6, 8 79 Mexican 1 66 Seafood 9 71 Sandwich/Deli 5, 6, 7, 9, 11,15 78 European/Italian 1 62 Upscale Casual 6 64 Cafés 3 80 Mexican 4, 11 80 Mexican 11 80 Mexican 9, 13 74 Bar & Grill 1 66 Seafood 13 67 Casual Dining 5 66 Seafood 8 80 Southwest/Tex Mex 3, 6, 9, 11, 15 78 European/Spanish 7 77 European/Irish 2 67 Casual Dining 2 71 Sandwich/Deli 2 66 Steakhouse 1 70 Pizza 1, 4, 5, 12, 13 69 Home Style/Southern 13 64 Cafés 1 74 Bar & Grill 14 81 Desserts/Bakery 5 69 Entertainment Dining 12 71 Sandwich/Deli 1 71 Sandwich/Deli 2 62 Upscale Casual 7 70 Pizza 14 75 Asian/Chinese 9 74 Bar & Grill 8 69 Home Style/Southern 14 67 Casual Dining 7 62 Cafés 2 74 Bar & Grill 2 67 Casual Dining 3,6,8,12,13,15 69 Home Style/Southern 13 77 European/Irish 2 70 Pizza 1 60 Fine Dining 1 78 Middle Eastern 4 76 Asian/Japanese 2 70 Pizza 6 80 Coffee House 1 78 European/Italian 1 62 Upscale Casual 9 72 Barbecue 11 78 European/Italian 6, 8, 15 62 Upscale Casual 1 72 Sandwich/Deli 1 80 Southwest/Tex Mex 8 75 Asian/Chinese 14 75 Asian/Chinese 14 72 Sandwich/Deli 9 75 Asian/Chinese 9 75 Asian/Chinese 3 75 Asian/Chinese 12 70 Pizza 2, 10 76 Asian/Japanese 2 67 Casual Dining 1 69 Home Style/Southern12, 16 66 Steakhouse 3, 8, 11, 12, 15 62 Upscale Casual 5 70 Pizza 3, 8, 9, 11, 12, 15 78 European/Spanish 2 75 Asian/Chinese 10 72 Sandwich/Deli 1, 3, 6, 8, 12, 15 70 Pizza [30] 66 Seafood 6 66 Steakhouse 2 62 Upscale Casual 3 64 Cafés 2 72 Sandwich/Deli 3, 4, 7, 9 72 Sandwich/Deli [16] 68 Casual Dining 1 80 Coffee House 16 78 European/Italian 1 77 Asian/Vietnamese 12 69 Cafeterias 5, 6 72 Barbecue 1 81 Desserts/Bakery 13

RESTAURANT

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE

Pig City BBQ 72 Pink Door Noodles & Tea Lounge 76 Pit Stop Bar-B-Que 72 Pita Delights 78 Pita Hut 78 Pizza By The Guy 70 Pizza Hut 70 Pizza King 70 Pizza Place 70 Plehn’s Bakery 81 Ponderosa Steakhouse 66 Porcini 78 Proof On Main 60 Pub Louisville 68 Puccini’s Smiling Teeth 78 Puckers Bar & Grill 74 Puerto Vallarta 80 Qdoba Mexican Grill 80 Queen of Sheba 74 Queue Café 65 Quick Wok 75 Quizno’s Subs 72 Rafferty’s of Louisville 68 Ramsi’s Café 63 Raw Sushi Lounge 76 Ray Parrella’s 78 Ray’s Monkey House 81 Red Pepper Chinese Cuisine 75 Red Robin Gourmet Burgers 68 Red Star Tavern 63 Red Sun Chinese 75 Ri Ra Irish Pub 77 Rite Way Bar-B-Cue House 72 River City Coffee House 81 Rivue 61 Road to Morroco 78 Rocky’s Italian Grill 78 Romano’s Macaroni Grill 78 Roosters 68 Rosticeria Luna 80 Royal Garden 75 Rubbie’s Bar-B-Que 72 Ruben’s Mexican Restaurant 80 Ruby Tuesday 68 The Rudyard Kipling 68 Rumors Raw Oyster Bar 66 Rustic Frog 74 Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse 66 Ryan’s Steakhouse 66 Saffron’s 78 Safier Mediterranean Deli 79 Sage Indian Restaurant 78 Saint’s 74 Sake Blue Japanese Bistro 76 Sakura Blue 76 Sala Thai 76 Salsarita’s Fresh Cantina 80 Sam’s Food & Spirits 68 Sammi Jo’s Sandwiches & More 72 Santa Fe Grill 80 Sapporo Japanese Grill 76 Sari Sari Exotic Filipino Cuisine 75 Savino’s Italian Food 78 Schlotzsky’s Deli 72 Scotty’s Ribs 72 Selena’s at Willow Lake Tavern 79 Senor Iguana’s 80 Sesame Chinese 75 Seviche A Latin Restaurant 61 Shack In The Back BBQ 72 Shady Lane Café 72 Shah’s Mongolian Grill 75 Shalimar Indian 78 Shane’s Rib Shack 72 Shanghai Restaurant 75 Sharom’s 66 Shenanigan’s Irish Grille 77 Shiraz Mediterranean Grill 79 Shogun 76 Shoney’s 68 Sichuan Garden 75 Sicilian Pizza & Pasta 70 Simply Thai 76 Sir Dano’s Pizza Parlor 70 Sister Bean’s 81 Sitar 78 Skip Jack’s 66 Skyline Chili 68 Small Times Bakery 81 Smoketown USA 72 Smokey Bones BBQ 72 Snappy Tomato 70 Sol Aztecas 80 Son Of A Sailor Seaf ood 66 Soupy’s 72 South Side Inn 69 Spaghetti Shop 78 Spinelli’s Pizzeria 70 Sportsville Grill & Bar 68 Stan’s Fish Sandwich 66

MAP #

Barbecue 9 Asian/Korean 2 Barbecue 1 Middle Eastern 1 Middle Eastern 2 Pizza 5 Pizza [15] Pizza 14, 16 Pizza 4 Desserts/Bakery 3 Steakhouse 7 European/Italian 2 Fine Dining 1 Casual Dining 1 European/Italian 3 Bar & Grill 12 Mexican 14, 16 Mexican 2, 3, 5, 6, 7, 8, 15 African 4 Cafés 6 Asian/Chinese 1 Sandwich/Deli [16] Casual Dining 3, 8 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Asian/Japanese 1 European/Italian 2 Coffee House 2 Asian/Chinese 2 Casual Dining 3, 8 Upscale Casual 1 Asian/Chinese 4 European/Irish 1 Barbecue 1 Coffee House 2 Fine Dining 1 Middle Eastern 1 European/Italian 16 European/Italian 5 Casual Dining 12 Mexican 12 Asian/Chinese 11, 12, 13 Barbecue 12 Mexican 15 Casual Dining 6, 15 Casual Dining 1 Seafood 9 Bar & Grill 14 Steakhouse 3 Steakhouse 11 Middle Eastern 1 Middle Eastern 1 Indian 3 Bar & Grill 3 Asian/Japanese 11 Asian/Japanese 3 Asian/Thai 1 Southwest/Tex Mex 3 Casual Dining 14 Sandwich/Deli 1 Mexican 12 Asian/Japanese 2, 9 Asian/Filipino 2 European/Italian 13 Sandwich/Deli 8, 9 Barbecue 9 Cajun/Creole 5 Mexican 12, 15 Asian/Chinese 5 Fine Dining 2 Barbecue 12 Sandwich/Deli 7 Asian/Chinese 6 Indian 6 Barbecue 7 Asian/Chinese 1 Seafood 11 European/Irish 2, 7 Middle Eastern 2, 5, 7, 9 Asian/Japanese 6, 8 Casual Dining 2, 12 Asian/Chinese 6 Pizza 1 Asian/Thai 3 Pizza 15 Coffee House 13 Indian 2 Seafood 15 Casual Dining 1, 2, 3, 6, 13 Desserts/Bakery 4 Barbecue 1 Barbecue 6 Pizza 3, 8, 10 Mexican 2 Seafood 7 Sandwich/Deli 4 Cafeterias 14 European/Italian 11, 14 Pizza 2 Casual Dining 12 Seafood 3

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Star Cruises 69 Entertainment Dining 16 Starbucks Coffee 81 Coffee House [35] Starving Artist Café 72 Sandwich/Deli 5 Steak N Shake 68 Casual Dining 4,6,8,12,13,15 Stevens & Stevens 72 Sandwich/Deli 2 Steve-O’s Italian Kitchen 78 European/Italian 7 Stoney River 66 Steakhouse 8 Studio’s Grille & Pub 74 Bar & Grill 14 Stumler Rest. & Orchard 69 Entertainment Dining 14 Sub Station II 72 Sandwich/Deli 12 Sully’s Saloon 74 Bar & Grill 1 Sunergos Coffee & Roastery 81 Coffee House 1 Sweet ‘N’ Savory Café 65 Cafés 2 Sweet Surrender 65 Cafés 2 The Sweet Tooth 81 Desserts/Bakery 3 Taco Bueno 80 Mexican 16 Taco Tico 80 Mexican 13 Tacqueria La Mexicana 80 Mexican 12 Tailgaters Sports Bar 74 Bar & Grill 12 Taste of Jamaica 79 Carribian/Cuban 2 Tea Station Chinese Bistro 75 Asian/Chinese 8 Tengo sed Cantina 74 Bar & Grill 1 Texas Roadhouse 66 Steakhouse 2, 12, 13, 15 TGI Friday’s 68 Casual Dining 1, 6 Thai Café 76 Asian/Thai 7 Thai Orchids 76 Asian/Thai 6 Thai Siam 76 Asian/Thai 4 Thai Smile 5 76 Asian/Thai 12 Thai Taste 76 Asian/Thai 2 The Back Door 74 Bar & Grill 2 The Bodega 72 Sandwich/Deli 1 The Café 65 Cafés 1 The Cheddar Box 65 Cafés 3 The Lunch Pail 65 Cafés 1 The Menu on the River 74 Bar & Grill 16 Third Avenue Café 65 Cafés 1 Thornberry’s Deli & Pies 72 Sandwich/Deli 12 Tiffany Cellar Café 65 Cafés 9 Toast on Market 68 Casual Dining 1 Tokyo Japanese 76 Asian/Japanese 7 Tommy Lancaster’s Rest. 68 Casual Dining 14 Toni’s More Than Pizza 70 Pizza 12 Tony Boombozz 70 Pizza 2, 3, 8 Tony Impellizzeri’s Italian 70 Pizza 5 Tony Roma’s 72 Barbecue 5 Trailside Café 81 Coffee House 7 Trellis Restaurant 68 Casual Dining 1 Tucker’s 68 Casual Dining 14 Tumbleweed 80 Southwest/Tex Mex 1,2,4, 6,8,12,13,14,15,16 Turkey Joe’s 74 Bar & Grill 8 Tuscano’s 72 Sandwich/Deli 12 Tuscany Italian Restaurant 78 European/Italian 13 Twig & Leaf Restaurant 68 Casual Dining 2 Uncle Tubby’s 70 Pizza 7 Uptown Café 63 Upscale Casual 7 Varanese 63 Upscale Casual 2 Varsity Pizza & Pints 70 Pizza 8 Versatile 68 Casual Dining 2 Vic’s Café 74 Bar & Grill 1 Vietnam Kitchen 77 Asian/Vietnamese 12 The Villa Buffet 68 Casual Dining 14 Vince Staten’s BBQ 72 Barbecue 10 Vincenzo’s 61 Fine Dining 1 Volare 78 European/Italian 2 W.W. Cousin’s 72 Sandwich/Deli 3 Wagner’s Pharmacy 69 Home Style/Southern 12 Wall Street Deli 72 Sandwich/Deli 1 Webb’s Market 69 Home Style/Southern 1 Westport General Store 68 Casual Dining 7 Wet Willie’s 66 Seafood 1 Whitney’s Diner 65 Cafés 4 Wicks Pizza 70 Pizza 2, 8, 9, 13 Wild Eggs 65 Cafés 3 Windsor Restaurant & Garden 63 Upscale Casual 14 Windy City Pizzeria 70 Pizza 1 The Wing Zone 68 Casual Dining 12 Wings To Go 70 Pizza 14 Winston’s 61 Fine Dining 4 Wok Express 75 Asian/Chinese 1 Wolfgang Puck Express 65 Cafés 1 Wonton Express 75 Asian/Chinese 4 Wood City Grill 73 Barbecue 1 Woody’s Pub & Grill 74 Bar & Grill 8 Xavier’s 68 Casual Dining 1 Yaching’s East West Cuisine 63 Upscale Casual 1 Yang Kee Noodle 75 Asian/Chinese 5 Yen Ching 75 Asian/Chinese 6 You-Carryout-A 75 Asian/Chinese 15, 16 Yummy Chinese 75 Asian/Chinese 12 Za’s Pizza 70 Pizza 2 Zaytun Mediterranean Grill 79 Middle Eastern 2 ZaZoo’s 74 Bar & Grill 3 Zen Garden 77 Asian/Vietnamese 2 Zeppelin Café 65 Cafés 1 Z’s Fusion 61 Fine Dining 1 Z’s Oyster Bar 61 Fine Dining 5

www.foodanddine.com Fall 2008 59

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GUIDE KEY Average Entrée Price:

$$ = under $8 $$$$ = $15–$20 $$ = $9–$14 $$$$ = $21 & up

RED = ADVERTISER

p = FULL BAR

h = LATE NIGHT

OPEN PAST 10 P.M.

✿ = VEGETARIAN f = OUTDOOR MENU ITEMS DINING AVAILABLE LIVE e = MUSIC = MENU ON-LINE ONLY ALL RESTAURANTS ARE LOCATED IN LOUISVILLE (unless noted otherwise).

All phone numbers are local calls. When out of the area, use area code 502 for all listings except Indiana, use 812.

211 CLOVER LANE RESTAURANT 211 Clover Ln., 896-9570. Owner and manager Andy Smith continues to burnish the upscale atmospher e and creative cuisine of this stylish spot in St. Matthews.

It consistently ranks among the city’ s top tables. $$$$ p f ✿ 610 MAGNOLIA 610 Magnolia Ave., 636-0783. Chef Edward Lee’s distinctive, eclectic take on cr eative international cookery places his personal signature on ever y dish at this elegantly comfor table Old Louisville restaurant. For more than a quar ter of a century it has r emained one of the city’ s finest places to dine. $$$$ p f ✿

60 Fall 2008 www.foodanddine.com

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BUCK’S 425 W. Ormsby A ve., 637-5284. Eclectic Victorian with tongue-slightly-in-cheek, pleasant and not overstated, this fine dining r oom in the Mayflower Apar tments combines a welcoming attitude with high-quality far e and atmospher e that’s frankly stunning. $$$ p f e ✿ CAFÉ METRO 1700 Bardstown Rd., 458-4830. A local tradition that helped establish Bar dstown Road as one of the city’s “restaurant rows” a generation ago, Café Metr o r emains an upscale landmark and continues to please Metro’s loyal fans. $$$$ p e ✿ CORBETT’S ‘AN AMERICAN PLACE’ 5050 Norton Healthcare Blvd., 327-5058. Dean Corbett, longtime owner/chef at Equus and Jack’ s Lounge, kicks things up another notch with this r emarkable, high-end East End destination, which makes thoughtful use of the historic Von Allmen mansion with high-tech touches that range fr om a 21st century kitchen to multimedia dinners. Corbett has his sights set on becoming Kentucky’ s first Mobil five-diamond r estaurant, and we’r e not betting against him. $$$$ p f ENGLISH GRILL 335 W. Broadway (The Brown Hotel), 583-1234. This elegant oak-paneled dining room is the same downtown landmark that our grandparents enjoyed, but Chef Laur ent Géroli brings the grand old hotel dining r oom into the 21st centur y with sophisticated international cuisine. $$$$ p ✿

and its top eater y swaps its sign fr om Por tico to Jack Binion’s. Still a stylish and upscale place to dine, it featur es a steakhouse concept, and you don’t have to be a high r oller to af ford its upscale fare and service. $$$$ p h ✿ LE RELAIS 2817 T aylorsville Rd. (Bowman Field), 451-9020. Another longstanding contender for top rank in Louisville’ s r estaurant race, this ar t deco spot makes stylish use of an historic 1920s airpor t building to present elegant modern French cuisine from Chef Daniel Stage. $$$$ p f e ✿ LILLY’S 1147 Bardstown Rd., 451-0447. As a r epeat invitee to Manhattan’ s James Bear d House, Chef Kathy Cary shares her Kentucky-accented cooking skills with the r est of the nation. Lilly’ s combines sophisticated style and Car y’s cr eative cooker y to keep this landmark r estaurant one of Louisville’ s dining favorites. $$$$ p e ✿ LIMESTONE 10001 Forest Green Blvd., 426-7477. To succeed in the r estaurant business, keep doing what you do best. Chefs Jim Gerhardt and Michael Cunha have followed this simple formula with considerable success at Limestone, transpor ting the concept that br ought them international culinary kudos at the Seelbach’ s Oakr oom with good ef fect in these modern quar ters in the East End. $$$$ p ✿

EQUUS 122 Sears Ave., 897-9721. Veteran Chef Dean Corbett has quietly built one of the city’ s most honored r estaurants in this simple white-brick building in St. Matthews, Quietly elegant surroundings, splendid ser vice and first-rate “progressive American cuisine” have won applause from publications like Southern Living. $$$$ p ✿

THE OAKROOM 500 S. Fourth St. (Seelbach Hotel), 585-3200. Executive Chef Todd Richards, his righthand-man Duane Nutter and Mixologist Jerry Slater have all flown South to Atlanta, leaving this destination dining r oom in a state of flux. Still, word on the street is that a deep and str ong bench suggests the Oakr oom will r emain an exciting place to dine. $$$$ p ✿

JACK BINION’S STEAKHOUSE Horseshoe Casino Hotel, Elizabeth, IN, 888-766-2648. High-end luxury and style bring a taste of Las Vegas to Metro Louisville. Caesar’s has become Horseshoe Casino,

PROOF ON MAIN 702 W. Main St., 217-6360. This stylish spot in the posh 21C Museum Hotel at Seventh & Main has earned a firm place in the top tier of local eateries. Chef Michael Paley pr esides

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over a modern American bill of far e with distinct Tuscan influences. $$$ p ✿ RIVUE 140 N. Four th St., (Galt House Hotel) 5895200. As par t of an overall makeover , Galt House management has completely r edone the dark old Flagship Room, conver ting the hotel’ s r evolving building-top venue into a sophisticated, upscale and architecturally stunning dining room. $$$ p h ✿ SEVICHE A LATIN RESTAURANT 1538 Bardstown Rd., 473-8560. Chef Anthony Lamas has been winning national praise for his cr eative cookery , frequently appearing in national food media and making a r egular trek to James Bear d House in NYC. Seviche, as the name implies, specializes in the Latino seafood dish “cooked” in tar t citrus juices. $$$$ p f h ✿ VINCENZO’S 150 S. Fifth St., 580-1350. Known for its suave pr ofessional ser vice, high-end Nor thern Italian fare and many trademark dishes finished at tableside, Vincenzo’s continues to hold its own against growing downtown competition. $$$$ p e h ✿ WINSTON’S REST AURANT 3101 Bar dstown Rd., (Sullivan University Campus), 456-0980. Renovated quarters kick W inston’s up a notch as culinar y arts students at Sullivan University staf f this finedining r estaurant on the campus, under the guiding hand of Chef John Castro. Open Fri. - Sun. only. Reservations suggested. $$$$ p ✿ Z’S FUSION 115 S. Fourth St., 855-8000. Considerable excitement attends the arrival of this classy dining room in the former Kunz’s, with an all-star team of Mehrzad Sharbaiani (Z’s Oyster Bar and Steakhouse) and Dallas McGarity (former Volare chef and James Beard House veteran). “Fusion” cuisine, which unites different ethnic influences in cr eative blends, has been around for a while, but a chef of McGarity’ s skill should be able to make it look new. $$$$ p ✿ Z’S OYSTER BAR & STEAKHOUSE101 Whittington Pkwy., 429-8000. This exciting spot brings a level of fine dining to the suburbs that makes it stand out in the chain-rich envir ons outside the Watterson. Splendid steaks, extraordinary seafood, fine service and clubby ambience give Z’s the tools to dominate in the steakhouse competition. $$$$ p

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AUSTIN’S 4950 U.S. 42, 423-1990. Big, crowded and bistro-style, with heavy emphasis on the bar , this suburban watering hole taps the same vein as the national franchise booze ’n’ beef genre, and does so well, offering satisfying dining at a fair price. $$ p ✿ AVALON 1314 Bardstown Rd., 454-5336. This stylish spot on Bardstown Road offers a fresh and creative bill of far e that pr esents American and international cuisine with a distinct Southern accent.

Extra points for the popular outdoor patio that’ s open for a good part of the year. $$$ p f ✿ BASA MODERN VIETNAMESE 2244 Frankfort Ave., 896-1016. Michael and Steven T on ar e winning raves, including a “long list” James Bear d nomination for top new r estaurant in the Southeast.

This sleek and upscale r estaurant’s “fusion” blend of V ietnamese and world culinary influences invites comparison with San Francisco’ s Slanted Door and Cincinnati’s Pho Paris. $$$ p BLACKSTONE GRILLE 9521 U.S. 42, Pr ospect, KY, 228-6962. Rick Dissell, formerly of the eponymous Rick’s Ferrari Grille in Chenoweth Squar e, moved east in June to this new r estaurant in the Prospect Center. The menu of fers no surprises to Rick’ s fans: sandwiches and the expected array of bistr o entrées — pasta, seafood, beef and chicken, including Rick’ s fried chicken livers and “light” fried chicken. $$$ p f ✿ BLU ITALIAN MEDITERRANEAN GRILLE 280 W. Jefferson St. (Louisville Marriott), 627-5045. BLU offers upscale Italian Mediterranean cuisine in striking surr oundings highlighted by Mexican limestone and Italian marble. For those seeking a relaxing libation and a quicker snack, the Bar at BLU offers a more casual alternative. $$$ p ✿ BRAVO! 206 Bullitt Ln. (Oxmoor Center), 326-0491.

Management describes the Ohio-based Bravo! chain as “a fun, white-tablecloth casual eatery …

positioned between the fine-dining and casual chains.” A Roman-ruin setting houses abundant Italian-American style fare. We particularly enjoyed appetizers and first-rate grilled meats. $$ p f ✿ BRISTOL BAR & GRILLE 1321 Bardstown Rd., 4561702, 300 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy ., 426-0627, 614 W. Main St., 582-1995, 6051 T imber Ridge Dr ., 292-2585, 2035 S. Thir d St., 634-2723, 700 W .

Riverside Dr ., Jef fersonville, IN, 218-1995. The Bristol has been a star on Louisville’ s bistro scene since it helped kick of f the Bar dstown Road restaurant renaissance 30 years ago this year . Old standards like the gr een-chile won tons and the Bristol Bur ger ar e always r eliable, and the wine program is exceptional. $$ p f ✿ CAVIAR JAPANESE RESTAURANT 416 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 625-3090. Sammy Sa, the genial host of the Fuji r estaurants in the East End, adds a downtown pr esence with this stylish Japanese eatery next door to the Seelbach Hotel. Eat at the sushi bar, choose a comfortable table or reserve the traditional Japanese-style T atami Room for your group. $$$ p h ✿ THE CHEESECAKE FACTORY 5000 Shelbyville Rd., 897-3933. “Cheesecake” is its name, and this glitzy shopping-mall eatery of fers a wide variety of rich, calorific choices to eat in or take out. It’s more than just cheesecake, though, with a wide-ranging menu of California, Southwestern and Pacific Rim far e plus full bar service. $$ p h ✿ CLUB GROTTO 2116 Bardstown Rd., 459-5275. Club Grotto’s stylish and romantically dim environs add up to a comfor table, familiar Highlands spot that’s w orth making a special ef fort to r emember. $$$ p ✿ COACH LAMP REST AURANT 751 V ine St., 5839165. This urban neighborhood tavern serves “pub grub” for lunch, but Coach Lamp turns into a more

60 WEST BISTRO & MARTINI BAR 3939 Shelbyville Rd., 719-9717. 60 W est combines a comfortable dining room with a lar ge, friendly bar with an imposing list of mar tinis and mar tini-style cocktails.

Chefs T im Smith and Chris V anhoozer o ffer an appealing, fairly priced eclectic inter national menu. $$ p f e ✿ 732 SOCIAL 732 E. Market St. Br others Steven and Michael T on, who made a big splash on the Louisville dining scene last year with Basa Modern Vietnamese, ar e set to make another when 732 Social opens in the Market Str eet arts district this fall. Small and intimate and featuring inventive small plates, with r oom for 60 diners who’ll dine “in close interaction with the working kitchen and guests,” 732 is alr eady being likened to Chicago’ s trendy Avec. $$$ p f ✿ ARTEMISIA 620 E. Market St., 583-4177. Of fering stylish fare to please both vegetarians and omnivores, Artemisia rates as a favorite dinner venue in an artful gallery setting that fits nicely with the bustling east-of-downtown arts scene. $$$ p f e ✿ ASIATIQUE 1767 Bardstown Rd., 451-2749. Chef Peng Looi has won diners’ raves and many culinary awards during Asiatique’s long local tenur e. His innovative Asian-fusion cuisine has won him invitations to New Y ork City’s James Bear d house and many local accolades. $$$ p f h ✿

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serious dining r oom Wednesday through Saturday evenings with dishes that range fr om down-home favorites to pastas. $$$ f ✿ CORNER CAFÉ 9307 New Lagrange Rd., 426-8119.

There’s nothing fancy or overly elegant about this suburban neighborhood old favorite, but the term “eclectic” fits it well. $$ p ✿ GILMAN’S POINT 3930 Chenoweth Ln., 893-0106. New owners hoist a new sign over the former Rick’ s Ferrari Grill. The casually sophisticated style of this St. Matthews favorite isn’t expected to change, but watch for more steaks and upscale main dishes as well as a range of excellent libations. $$$ p f e h ✿ INTERMEZZO CAFÉ & CABARET 316 W. Main St., 584-1265. The elegant r estaurant space in Actor’ s Theatre of Louisville’ s historic building featur es casual American bistr o fare in an attractive dining room, plus nightly entertainment in a cabaret style. $$$ p e ✿ J. ALEXANDER’S RESTAURANT 102 Oxmoor Court, 339-2206. This comfor tably upscale venue, a Nashville-based chain, featur es “contemporar y American” fare with a broad menu that ranges from burgers and sandwiches to such upscale eats as grilled tuna or a New York strip steak. $$$ p f ✿

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J. HARROD’S 7507 Upper River Rd., 228-4555. J. Harrod’s is discr eetly tasteful and pleasantly comfortable. The food is competitive in both quality and value. It’s an appealing, upscale blend of bistro fare and old-fashioned country cooking. $$$ p ✿ JACK FR Y’S 1007 Bar dstown Rd., 452-9244. If you want to give visiting friends a one-shot sample of Louisville’s urban dining style, ther e’s no better destination than Jack Fr y’s. This popular spot is always packed. It saves just a whif f of the raf fish aspect of its 1960s-era pr edecessor, a local saloon, but upgrades it with cr eative American far e in a bistro setting. $$$$ p e h ✿ JARFI’S AT GLENMARY 10200 Glenmary Farm Dr., 239-3500. Restaurateur Jef f Jar fi has been a busy man since he moved his Jar fi’s Bistr o fr om the Kentucky Center to the Highlands earlier this year.

In addition to his catering operation and a café in the Muhammad Ali Center, he has now opened the dining r oom at Fern Cr eek’s Glenmar y Countr y Club to the public for lunch, dinner and Sunday brunch. $$$ p f ✿ JARFI’S BISTRO 1543 Bar dstown Rd. 589-5060 Restaurateur Jeff Jarfi, after five years of ser vice operating the destination restaurant in the Kentucky Center for the ar ts, now moves to the Highlands,

taking over the space long occupied by Lentini’ s and conver ting it into something mor e elegantly continental. $$$ p f ✿ JOHN E’S 3708 Bar dstown Rd., 456-1111. This old Louisville tradition earns a warm recommendation.

From its cozy setting in an historic Buechel home to its down-home ser vice to its good Americanstyle fare at reasonable prices. $$$$ p e ✿ KRESO’S RESTAURANT 218 N. Third St., Bardstown KY, 348-9594. A former theater now houses a charming r estaurant run by a friendly Bosnian couple. Lunch and dinner feature eclectic fare from Bosnian salads to W ienerschnitzel and goulash.

There’s a lar ge bar , and the r enovated theatr e is available for parties and receptions. $$$ p KT’S 2300 Lexington Rd., 458-8888. It’s hard to argue with success, and KT’s has earned its popularity by providing good American-style bar and bistro chow for a price that’s fair. $$ p f h ✿ LYLIA’S ENCORE 501 W. Main St., 245-7734. After two fine-dining shows (Kentucky Cove and Jar fi’s Bistro) went dark, management has appar ently decided to pr ovide food ser vice at a lower pr ofile: Lylia’s Encor e, operated by popular local Ladyfinger’s Catering, will be a buf fet-style eatery, open only before shows in the Center. $$$ p MAKER’S MARK BOURBON HOUSE & LOUNGE 446 S. Four th St., (Four th Street Live) 568-9009.

Kentucky’s Maker’s Mark Distiller y lends its name and its signatur e r ed-wax image to this stylish restaurant and lounge in the booming downtown entertainment complex. A magisterial bar featur es more than 60 Bourbons, and the menu of fers traditional Kentucky fare. $$$ p f h ✿ MELTING POT 2045 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-3125.

This Florida-based chain brings back pleasant memories of fondue par ties of the ’70s. If you can melt it and dip things in it, the Melting Pot probably has it on the menu. $$$ p ✿ MOJITO TAPAS RESTAURANT 2231 Holiday Manor Shopping Center , 425-0949. (see r eview under European/Spanish) NAPA RIVER GRILL 1211 Herr Ln., 893-0141. This popular destination has earned top rank for its innovative wine-country cuisine, excellent ser vice and fine California-focused wine collection. W ith stylish new quarters and an expanded menu, it’s now drawing crowds to Westport Village. $$$ p f h ✿ NORTH END CAFÉ 1722 Frankfort Ave., 896-8770.

This atmospheric Clifton spot in an ar tfully redesigned old shotgun house is one of the city’ s most popular spots for upscale casual dining. The eclectic menu of fers diverse tapas and inter esting entrées. It’s an appealing, af fordable place to dine. $$$ f h ✿ OLD STONE INN 6905 Shelbyville Rd., Simpsonville, KY, (502) 722-8200. After a short closure, this comfortably nostalgic r estaurant in an historic stone building east of Louisville in Simpsonville is back in business with new owners. $$$ p f e ✿ OLIVIA’S ON GOSS 946 Goss A ve., 409-6160. The Louisville Antique Mall (and its second floor restaurant, The Café) left this huge, r edbrick 19th century factory location last winter . Now it houses the Goss A venue Antique Mall and this stylish luncheon spot. It’s open 7 days a week, with Chef Travis Hall (formerly of Eva Mae’ s) offering soups, salads and daily specials. $ f ✿ P.F. CHANG’S CHINA BISTRO 9120 Shelbyville Rd., 327-7707. This Arizona-based, Chinese themed restaurant offers a loud, happy scene with Chinesestyle dishes. To its credit, everything is prepared well and service is consistently fine. $$ p h ✿ THE P ATRON 3400 Frankfor t A ve., 896-1661.

Viewed fr om the perspective of an evening meal, the Patron offers some of the best cooking in town.

Chef Amber McCool of fers a dinner menu that

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of this wine bar know their vino. Interesting wines and a shor t bistr o-style menu make it a welcome suburban alternative. $ h ✿

changes fr equently, based on what’ s available and perhaps the chef ’s whim. It’s not just adventur ous but civilized. $$ p ✿ RAW SUSHI LOUNGE 520 S. Four th St., 585-5880 (see listing under Asian/Japanese) RED ST AR T AVERN 450 S. Four th St., 568-5656.

Billed as “a hip, contemporary version of the classic American tavern,” this chain operation in Four th Street Live features steaks, chops and seafood in an atmosphere that’s upscale and clubby, with an extensive bar as a key part of the action. $$$ p f h UPTOWN CAFÉ 1624 Bar dstown Rd., 458-4212.

Across the str eet and a step downscale fr om its partner, Café Metr o, the Uptown Café of fers excellent far e with a bistr o feel for quite a few bucks less. $$ p f ✿ VARANESE 2106 Frankfort Ave., 899-9904. The old Red Lounge has under gone a transformation, upgraded to a stunning new dining r oom named for owner and chef, John V aranese, who’ s been executive chef at U of L’s Cardinal Club and Azalea.

Varanese puts his personal stamp on an exciting, upscale casual and internationally flavor ed bill of fare. Live jazz, contemporar y ar t and urban style complete the mood. $$$ p f e ✿ VOLARE 2300 Frankfort Ave., 894-4446. (See review under European/Italian) WINDSOR RESTAURANT & GARDEN 148 E. Market St., New Albany, IN, 944-9688. Upscale casual far e returns to the historic hotel building that formerly housed Bistro New Albany. $$$$ p f e ✿ YACHING’S EAST WEST CUISINE 105 S. Four th St., 585-4005. Yaching’s promises “an eclectic menu of contemporar y Asian fusion cuisine.” It’ s an attractive mix of East and W est, sufficient to give just about everyone something to enjoy, regardless of which compass point attracts your taste buds. $$$ p ✿

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ATRIUM CAFÉ 9940 Corporate Campus Dr. (Embassy Suites), 426-9191. An eclectic bistro atmosphere in the hear t of the hotel. Specials run fr om their popular crab cakes and array of pasta dishes to a Reuben sandwich or fruit pie. $$ p ✿ BAXTER STATION BAR & GRILL 1201 Payne St., 584-1635. This cozy spot looks a lot like a neighborhood saloon, but the eclectic menu and unique atmosphere take it a notch upscale, and the weatherized patio is comfortable almost year-round.

Take particular note of an impressive beer list to go with your meal. $$ p f ✿ BISTRO 301 301 W. Market St., 584-8337. Quality contemporary American cuisine in a stylish environment makes Bistro 301 a reasonable alternative when you’r e looking for upscale-casual dining downtown. $$$ p f ✿ BLUEGRASS BISTRO 3819 Bar dstown Rd., 4094511. Chef Scott Schamel brings a gourmet-style sensibility to this attractive luncheon spot in the Derby City Antique Mall in Buechel. Menu choices rarely miss; if Possum Pie is the desser t special, don’t fail to choose it. $ ✿ BOURBONS BISTRO 2255 Frankfort Ave., 894-8838.

Bourbon, Kentucky’ s traditional nectar , owns a place of honor in Louisville eateries and watering holes that showcase its pleasur es. Bourbons Bistr o combines a fine bar and comfor tably upscalecasual r estaurant featuring what must be the world’s most comprehensive Bourbon list. The bill of far e is well-matched with the excellence of its libations. $$$ p f ✿ BRIX WINE BAR 12418 La Grange Rd., 243-1120.

The use of an exceptionally obscure wine term (it’s pronounced “bricks” and refers to the sugar content of ripe grapes at harvest) hints that the proprietors

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CAFÉ LOU LOU 106 Sears A ve, 893-7776, 2216 Dundee Rd., 459-9566. This popular spot wins critical raves and packs in cr owds. Owner -Chef Clay Wallace is comfor table with his international bill of fare and laissez les bon temps r ouler mood.

A second branch, smaller but featuring carry-out, is now open at the Douglass Loop. $$ p ✿ DITTO’S GRILL 1114 Bar dstown Rd., 581-9129.

Highlands favorite. Chef/Co-owner Domonic Serratore — a pioneer of the local dining scene — offers an internationally eclectic bill of far e that ranges fr om Kansas City ribs and New England crab cakes to Thai chicken wings and Chinese burritos. $$ p h ✿ HARD ROCK CAFÉ Fourth Str eet Live, 568-2202.

Louisville’s Fourth Street Live echoes with a bang amid hammering guitars and happy thr ongs at the local branch of this popular shrine to r ock. The music scene is the draw , but you’ll have no complaints about Har d Rock’ s standar d American cuisine. $$ p f e h ✿ JACK’S LOUNGE 122 Sears A ve., 897-9026. A sophisticated, elegant bar associated with the Equus restaurant next door, Jack’s offers a short but excellent menu featuring appetizers and light bites, along with a drinks list beyond reproach. $ p h ✿ L&N WINE BAR AND BISTRO 1765 Mellwood Ave., 897-0070. If you’r e enthusiastic about good wine, you’re going to be excited about L&N. The fruit of the vine takes center stage in a vast, fairly priced wine list and imposing Cruvinet dispenser , with over 80 wines available by the glass. Comfortable exposed-brick atmospher e and excellent bistro fare add to the draw. $$ p f h ✿ RAMSI’S CAFÉ ON THE WORLD 1293 Bardstown Rd., 451-0700. Small, funky and fun, this favorite

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surprisingly good bur gers. Exotic foods including Shinnecock ice fish, black bear , ostrich and kangaroo (when available) round out an excellent, traveled menu. $$ f ✿

spot of the Highlands’ Generation X crowd attracts foodies of all ages with its friendly setting, reasonable prices and well-pr epared international cuisine. $$ f e h ✿

ADRIANN’S AROUND THE T ABLE CUISINE 14041 Shelbyville Rd, 244-9695. Located out beyond the Snyder in the far East End, Adriann’ s offers family style diner far e ranging fr om sandwiches and wraps to fried chicken $ ✿ AROMA CAFÉ Horseshoe Casino Hotel, Elizabeth, IN, 888-766-2648. Grab a bite befor e hitting the casino. Sandwiches, salads, sides, cold beverages and cof fee will fuel you for a night of enter tainment. $ h ✿ BLUE DOG BAKER Y AND CAFÉ 2868 Frankfort Ave., 899-9800. This bakery with its $50,000 Spanish wood-fired oven makes ar tisanal bread as good as you’ll find in the U.S., and competitive withthe best in Eur ope. Its comfor table, upscale café of fers a short selection of tasty dishes made to show off the fine breads. $$ p f ✿ BLUE MOUNTAIN COFFEEHOUSE & WINE BAR 400 E. Main St., 582-3220. Host Nicholas Arno adds a Jamaican accent, and Jamaican Blue Mountain coffee is the specialty , at this sleek and sophisticated spot across Main from Slugger Field. A coffee house by day, it adds a wine-bar vibe in the evenings. $fh✿ BULLDOG CAFÉ 10619 W. Manslick Rd., 380-0600. $fh✿ BUTTERFLY GARDEN CAFÉ 1327 Bar dstown Rd., 456-4500. This tasteful little spot of fers teas and lighter lunch fare in an attractive old-house setting. $f✿ CAFÉ FRAICHE 3642 Br ownsboro Rd., 894-8929.

Cuisine from around the world is featur ed at this East End neighbor hood café, featuring homemade soups, br eads and a variety of entrées on a seasonally changing menu. $ ✿ CHEDDAR BOX CAFÉ 12121 Shelbyville Rd., 2452622. Ladies who lunch often do so her e, lured by an attractive selection of luncheon soups, salads and sandwiches and desserts. $$ f ✿ CHRISANTA’S CAFÉ 1812 Br ownsboro Rd., 6182250. Don’t blink when you pass this small Clifton storefront down at the lower end of Brownsboro in Clifton, or you might miss your chance for a charming lunch. Mediterranean bistro fare includes a variety of panini, kabobs and comfortable Persian home cooking. $ CITY CAFÉ 505 W . B roadway, 589-1797, 1250 Bardstown Rd., 459-5600, 500 S. Pr eston St., 8525739. Chef Jim Henr y, a long-time star in the city’s culinary firmament, brings his cooking skills and insistence on fr esh, quality ingr edients to these simple, but excellent, spots for lunch. $ f ✿ COLONNADE CAFÉ 834 E. Broadway, 749-3104. The Louisville Antique Mall moves from Goss Avenue to East Br oadway, and the familiar Colonnade, mourned upon its eviction from the Starks Building last year, comes back to life on the Antique Mall’ s fifth floor as a sit-down lunch spot with blue-plate menu specials. Works for us! $ p ✿ CRAVE CAFÉ & CA TERING 2250 Frankfor t A ve., 896-1488. Experienced cater ers and chefs of fer casual but quality café far e in this comfor table old frame house in Clifton. $ ✿ CREEKSIDE OUTPOST & CAFÉ 614 Hausfeldt Ln., New Albany IN, 948-9118. This atmosphere is something you won’t see every day — or week, month or year, for that matter. The Creekside Outpost warps customers back into the days of general stor es and maintains ever y bit of old fashioned charm. The Ladyhawk Café ser ves up lean buf falo, elk and 64 Fall 2008 www.foodanddine.com

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CUP OF SUNSHINE TEA HOUSE AND CAFÉ 415 E. Riverside Dr., Clarksville, IN, 282-4316. Operating at the same carpenter -Gothic riverside house as Widow’s W alk ice cr eamery, Cup of Sunshine’ s menu includes wraps, sandwiches, soups and teas.

Owners Marquetta Tinsley and Mary Pelly focus on organic, vegetarian and vegan of ferings, but fashion “grilled chicken for our carnivorous friends who haven’t quite let go yet.” $ f ✿ CYCLERS CAFÉ 2295 Lexington Rd., 451-5152. Is it a bicycle shop or a r estaurant? Well, it’s both. This informal spot will sell you a first-rate sandwich, soup or salad or a tire for your bike — or the whole darn bike! $ f ✿ DERBY CAFÉ 704 Central A ve. (Kentucky Derby Museum), 634-0858. Lunch ser ved year-round in the dining area adjacent to the Derby Museum with such r egional favorites as meaty Bur goo, and the Hot Brown. $ f ✿ ERMIN’S BAKER Y & CAFÉ 1201 S. First St., 6356960, 723 S. Four th St., 587-9390, 455 S. Four th Ave., 585-5120, 9550 U.S. Hwy . 42, 228-7210, 2736 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 941-8674.

These popular bakeries attract cr owds looking for an enjoyable soup and sandwich lunch highlighted

by French-style breads and pastries. $ ✿ FEDERAL HILL 310 Pearl St., New Albany IN, 9486646. $ f ✿ FUN FOOD CAFÉ 1860 Mellwood Ave., 895-1003. $ ✿ GRAPEVINE PANTRY & GIFT SHOP 11418 Old Main St., Middletown, KY , 245-1569. The Middletown Historic District is booming with stor efronts, restaurants and a laid back glimpse of the past. The Grapevine Pantry of fers homemade soups, sandwiches and salads, cakes and pies. $ J. GRAHAM’S CAFÉ & BAR 335 W. Broadway (The Brown Hotel), 583-1234. The home of the legendary “Hot Brown” sandwich, the recently redecorated J. Graham’s offers a mor e casual bistr o-style alternative to the upscale English Grill, with choice of menu service or buffet dining. $ f p JARFI’S CAFÉ 144 N. Sixth St. (Muhammad Ali Center) 992-5329. $$ ✿ JENICCA’S CAFÉ & WINE BAR 636 E. Market St., 454-1487. A worthy edition to the booming arts district east of downtown, Jenicca’s is sophisticated and stylish, a fine cof fee shop and casual wine bar with light fare and an upscale ar t-gallery vibe. $fh✿ KAYROUZ CAFÉ 127 Wiltshire Ave., 896-2631. The younger generation of a long-standing local restaurant family offers soup and sandwich favorites and some Lebanese specialties in this small but stylish St. Matthews building. $ f ✿ MAIN STREET CAFÉ & TREA TS 155 E. Main St., New Albany, IN, 944-4494. $ MERIDIAN CAFÉ 112 Meridian Ave., 897-9703. This little lunch spot occupies a cozy old house in St. Matthews. Ser vice is competent and polite, the place is sparkling clean, and the luncheon-style fare is consistently fine. A selection of appetizing breakfast items rounds out a tasty mix. $ f ✿ MR. Z’S KITCHEN 869 S. Thir d St., 584-8504. It’ s run by a friendly immigrant family fr om Eastern Europe, but the food is all-American at Mr . Z’ s Kitchen. It offers an appetizing option for a hear ty diner-style meal. $ ✿ PATTICAKES CAFÉ 1860 Mellwood Ave., 238-7387.

Located in the Mellwood Ar ts Center , Patticakes serves homemade soups and sandwiches — and cake, of course. Owner Patti Fadel offers more than 50 varieties of pound cake! $ f ✿

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QUEUE CAFÉ 220 W. Main St. (LG&E Building), 583-0273. $ f ✿ SWEET ‘N’ SA VORY CAFÉ 1574 Bar dstown Rd., 456-6566. Hear ty brunch far e with a vegetarian accent makes Sweet ‘n’ Savory a popular destination for the Bardstown Road bunch. $ ✿ SWEET SURRENDER 1804 Frankfor t A ve., 8992008. After moving fr om its original Frankfor t Avenue to Bardstown Road a few years ago, owner Jessica Haskell has r eturned to her original neighborhood. A light lunch menu is available as well as the trademark desserts. $$ f THE CAFÉ 712 Br ent St., 637-6869. Long hailed as one of the city’s most attractive places for a simple but stylish lunch, this local institution has moved from the old Louisville Antique Mall on Goss Avenue, to a mor e easily accessible stor efront location just off East Broadway. $ f THE CHEDDAR BOX 3909 Chenoweth Sq., 8932324. $ f ✿ THE LUNCH P AIL 502 E. W arnock St., 634-7116.

Offering yet another quick and comfor ting lunch option near U of L, this family-owned spot features warming soups and filling sandwiches. Lunch is offered year -round, with a dinner menu added from April through September. $ f ✿

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CLARKSVILLE SEAFOOD 916 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville, IN, 283-8588. As the only sur viving descendant of Louisville’s old Cape Codder chain, Clarksville Seafood upholds a long and honorable tradition. The menu is simple — fried fish and fried seafood, ser ved on paper trays — but it is consistently excellent and affordable. $ THE FISH HOUSE 1310 W inter Ave., 568-2993.

Louisville is as over flowing as a well-stocked lake with fish-sandwich houses, and The Fish House is right up ther e with the best. Crisp br eading laced with black pepper is the signatur e of Gr een River fried fish from Western Kentucky. $ f THE FISHER Y 3624 Lexington Rd., 895-1188. The original fried-fish eater y in a neighbor hood that’s now awash with them, The Fishery r emains justly popular for its quick, sizzling hot and af fordable fish and seafood meals. $ f ✿ HILL STREET FISH FR Y 111 E. Hill St., 636-3474.

This Old Louisville tradition is small and easy to miss, but it’s worth the effort to get by. It’s oversized fried whitefish sandwich is the flagship dish, but a varied menu is also available. $ f ISLAMORADA FISH COMPANY 951 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 218-5300. Spawned by a

beachside eatery in the Florida Keys, Islamorada Fish Company has locations in many of the nation’s 30 Bass Pr o Shops, including Clarksville’ s gigantic entry in the former River Falls Mall. Beach-shack decor adds fun, and its expansive menu of fers a broad selection of seafood and fish. $$ p JOE’S CRAB SHACK 131 River Rd., 568-1171. The setting is bright, noisy and fun. But the food is the bottom line, and I’m pleased to r eport that the seafood at Joe’s is uniformly fresh and fine. $$ p f JOJO’S FISH MARKET 2902 Bar dstown Rd., 4517100. This small Highlands shop of fers fried fish sandwiches, oversized fish tacos and other seafood fare in a casual setting. We’ve found the fish dishes first-rate and fairly priced. $ ✿ KINGFISH REST AURANT 3021 Upper River Rd., 895-0544, 1610 Kentucky Mills Dr., 240-0700, 601 W. Riverside Dr ., Jef fersonville, IN, 284-3474.

Fried fish in a family dining setting has made this local chain a popular favorite for many years. T wo of its properties — upper River Road and Riverside Drive — boast river views. $$ p f e MACCA’S FLORIDA SEAFOOD GRILL & BAR 1315 Herr Ln., 618-2770. Upscale casual seafood and fish, this popular spot in W estport Village is

THIRD AVENUE CAFÉ 1164 South Third St., 5852233. One of my favorite places for a casual meal, this exceptionally pleasant neighbor hood eater y is attracting loyal cr owds with excellent far e and a cozy setting that brings you back for mor e. $$

pfe✿ TIFFANY CELLAR CAFÉ 4411. $ f ✿

11601 Main St., 245-

WHITNEY’S DINER 3061 Br eckenridge Ln., 4545955. For many years a Fern Cr eek landmark before a shor t move west, Whitney’ s r emains a comfortable spot for a casual, diner-style breakfast, lunch or dinner. $ ✿ WILD EGGS 3985 Dutchmans Ln., 893-8005. The owners of Napa River Grill have hit a home run with the launch of this popular , high-quality spot, set to be the first in a growing mini-chain. Wild Eggs serves br eakfast, brunch and lunch. T raditional favorites and specialty omelets ar e featured, with upscale touches at moderate prices, plus a trained espresso barista and full bar ser vice. $ p ✿ WOLFGANG PUCK EXPRESS 221 S. Fourth St., 5620983. Although it bears the name of the celebrity Austrian chef, don’ t expect W olfie in the kitchen: This fast-food operation is run by Centerplate, the same folks who pr ovide concessions at Slugger Field and Papa John’s Cardinal Stadium. $$ f ZEPPELIN CAFÉ 1036 E. Burnett St., 365-3551. $$ h ✿

BONEFISH GRILL 657 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy ., 4124666. This franchise concept fr om the Floridabased Outback Steakhouse chain of fers impressive seafood in a comfor table setting. Add Bonefish to your shor t list of suburban chain eateries that do the job right. $$$ p ✿ CAROLINA SHRIMP & SEAFOOD 3922 Westport Rd., 894-8947. In an East End neighbor hood rich with seafood eateries, Carolina offers a tasty option within walking distance of downtown St. Matthews.

This spartan little joint featur es shellfish and cod, much of it healthfully steamed, not fried, in an affordable family setting. $ f CATFISH HA VEN LAKE & RESTAURANT 7208 Whipple Rd., 937-7658. If you like to fish, or if you like to eat fish, you’ll likely enjoy Catfish Haven, a simple, down-home eatery in Southwestern Jefferson County. Seafood is the specialty. Fishermen will enjoy their stocked pay-to-fish lake. Note though, it’s not possible to have your catch fried for dinner . $$ f

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MARKET STREET FISH HOUSE 133 E. Market St., New Albany, IN, 590-3377. $ MAZZONI’S OYSTER CAFÉ 12003 Shelbyville Rd., 451-4436. In business since 1884, Mazzoni’s is one of the city’s longest-running restaurants. After a generation in the Bowman Field ar ea, it has found a home in Middletown, and br ought along much of its oldstyle look and feel. The pub grub, cold beer and the famous rolled oyster haven’t changed a bit. $$ p f ✿ MIKE LINNIG’S 9308 Cane Run Rd., 937-9888. Mike Linnig’s has been dishing up tasty fried fish and seafood at family prices since 1925 and r emains immensely popular . Ther e’s indoor seating and a bar, but the picnic gr ove with its giant shade tr ees makes Linnig’s a special place in season. $ f MITCHELL’S FISH MARKET 4031 Summit Plaza Dr., 412-1818. The decor of this upscale eater y evokes the feeling of a lar ge fish market, with an open kitchen that of fers views of chefs at work.

Quality seafood and ser vice has made Mitchell’ s a popular destination. $$$ p f ✿ PASSTIME FISH HOUSE 4633. $$ f e

10801 Locust Rd., 267-

RUMORS REST AURANT & RA W BAR 12339 Shelbyville Rd., 245-0366. Visualize Hooter’s without the scantily-clad waitresses, and you’ve drawn a bead on Rumor’ s, the original Louisville home of the bucket-of-oysters and impressive raw bar. $$ p f SHAROM’S 5637 Outer Loop, 968-8363. Family owned and family style dining with a wide net of seafood dinners and appetizers. Lunch and dinner menus also include such delicacies as fr og legs, shrimp and alligator. $$ p SKIP JACK’S 1418 Blackiston Mill Rd., Clarksville IN, 282-7557. $ SON OF A SAILOR SEAFOOD REST AURANT 617 W. Jefferson St., LaGrange, KY , 265-2202. Settling into the spot wher e Mike’s Fish House used to be, Son Of A Sailor opened in June of fering seafood Calabash-style (“bound” br eading with seasoned flour and cornmeal, popular in the Car olinas.)

Munch the free, slightly sweet hush puppies while you wait. $$ f STAN’S FISH SANDWICH 3723 Lexington Rd., 8966600. The fish is the thing at Stan’ s, wher e the owner is a perfectionist who won’t sell any but the freshest fish, per fectly pr epared. I’ve never had a better fish sandwich anywher e. W atch for daily specials that take advantage of fr esh product. $ ✿ WET WILLIE’S 441 S. Four th St., 581-1332. Stand Up Live, melding the Florida-based seafood chain Capt. Brien’ s Seafood with W et W illie’s, adds a comedy club … with seafood … to the action at Fourth Street Live. $$$ p f e h ✿ ] BABBY’S STEAKHOUSE 1207 E. Market St., Jeffersonville, IN., 288-2411. This independentminded steakhouse is one of the metr o area’s best values for exper tly prepared steaks. They come in all the usual sizes and configurations, but someone in the kitchen has definite opinions about seasoning and grilling. The r esult is a distinctive approach that rewards a visit. $$ f DEL FRISCO’S 4107 Oechsli A ve., 897-7077. Once ranked among the city’ s top steakhouses, Del Frisco’s remains strong in its core competency. For deeply marbled, fork-tender prime steaks, it’ s still hard to beat on quality points. $$$$ p FIFTH QUARTER STEAKHOUSE 1241 Durrett Ln., 361-2363. The Fifth Quarter offers steaks and beef in a nostalgic family atmosphere. $$$ p f e 66 Fall 2008 www.foodanddine.com

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JACK BINION’S STEAKHOUSE Horseshoe Casino Hotel, Elizabeth, IN, 888-766-2648. (see listing under Fine Dining) JEFF RUBY’S STEAKHOUSE 325 W. Main St., 5840102. Cincinnati restaurateur Jeff Ruby, who owns five upscale eateries in the upriver city and one at Indiana’s Belterra Casino, now hosts this glitzy Louisville pr operty, an upscale steak house that bears his name. Fine beef is the main draw , with seafood and even sushi as a plus. $$$$ p e

A NICE REST AURANT 3105 Blackiston Mill Rd., New Albany IN, 945-4321, 2784 Meijer Dr ., 2809160, 404 Lafollette Station, 923-7770. A Nice Restaurant, billed as “New Albany’ s Finer Diner ,” is, well, nice enough to have launched two mor e branches. All specialize in simple, down-home breakfast and lunch at affordable prices. $

LOGAN’S ROADHOUSE 5055 Shelbyville Rd., 8933884, 5229 Dixie Hwy ., 448-0577, 970 Hwy . 131, Clarksville, IN, 288-9789. W ith mor e than 100 properties in 17 states, this Nashville-based chain parlays peanut shells on the floor and steaks on the table into a popular formula. $$ p

APPLEBEE’S (8 locations) This cheery national chain features an eclectic assor tment of salads, steaks, ribs, poultr y and pasta as well as full bar ser vice.

It’s as consistent as a cookie cutter , but competent execution makes it a good bargain for those whose tastes run to mainstream American cuisine. $$ p h

LONGHORN STEAKHOUSE 2535 Hurstbourne Ln., 671-5350, 9700 V on Allmen Ct., 326-7500, 1210 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN. 284-5800. Oversize steaks and a “big sky” western theme ar e the draw at this chain eatery , although most of its properties are east of the Mississippi. $$ p

B.J.’S RESTAURANT & BREWHOUSE 7900 Shelbyville Rd., 326-3850. This Southern California chain arrived east of the Mississippi, including a lar ge and imposing brewhouse at Oxmoor Center. A full range of made-in-Nevada craft beers is dispensed, along with upscale-casual pub grub. $$ p h

MORTON’S 626 W. Main St., 584-0421. The steaks are as good as it gets, the atmospher e is elegant without being stuffy, and the service is outstanding.

Morton’s earns a solid three stars and ranks among the top tier of Louisville’ s upscale dining choices. $$$$ p

BLUEGRASS GRILL & BAR 1041 Zorn A ve., 8975101. Formerly Anytimes, this Ramada Inn dining room now features Kentucky products from catfish to pork barbecue with traditional Henr y Bain sauce. $$ p f e h

OUTBACK STEAK HOUSE 4621 Shelbyville Rd., 895-4329, 6520 Signatur e Dr ., 964-8383, 9498 Brownsboro Rd., 426-4329, 8101 Bar dstown Rd., 231-2399, 1420 Park Place, Clarksville, IN, 2834329. The name suggests Australia, and so does the shtick at this popular national chain, but the food is pretty much familiar American, and the fare goes beyond just steak to take in chicken, seafood and pasta. $$$ p PAT’S STEAK HOUSE 2437 Br ownsboro Rd., 8969234. A visit to Pat’s may not be exactly like a trip back to the ’50s, but when I ate there last, I think I saw Ozzie and Harriet. A local favorite, its combination of quality beef and hospitality rank it among the best steak houses in town. Bring cash: No credit cards accepted. $$$$ p f PONDEROSA STEAKHOUSE 11470 S. Pr eston Hwy., 964-6117, 816 S. KY 53, La Grange, KY, 2221226. Family-style dining with the ranch theme kept alive with the open flame fr om the grills. An extensive buf fet with hot and cold foods, salads and desserts is also available. $ ✿

BUCKHEAD MOUNT AIN GRILL 3020 Bar dstown Rd., 456-6680, 4112 Outer Loop, 966-5555, 707 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 284-2919, 10206 Westport Rd., 339-0808. Buckhead’s combination of mountain lodge atmosphere and American-style fare make these popular destinations. The large menu features down-home staples like meat loaf, pot pies, steak, ribs, and lighter far e for warm weather dining. The view of Louisville’ s skyline fr om the riverfront location is not to be missed. $$ p f h ✿ CAFÉ MAGNOLIA 140 N. Four th St. (Galt House), 589-5200. The Galt House’ s quick and casual second-floor dining alternative, this spacious venue of fers a range of far e for guests on the go, from bacon and eggs to a late-night bur ger and fries. $$$ p ✿ CAPTAIN’S QUAR TERS 5700 Captain’ s Quar ters Rd., 228-1651. One of the city’ s most attractive eateries for atmospher e, Captain’ s Quar ters matches the beautiful setting with quality bistr ostyle fare that won’t disappoint. Summer or winter, it’s a delightful place to dine. $$ p f e ✿

RUTH’S CHRIS STEAKHOUSE 6100 Dutchman’ s Ln., 479-0026. The Robb Report magazine has declared Rolex the world’s best watch, Armani the best men’s suit, Cohiba the best cigar and Ruth’ s Chris the best r estaurant. It ser ves an excellent steak in an atmospher e of elegance that will make you feel pampered, at a price to match. $$$$ p

CARDINAL HALL OF FAME CAFÉ 2745 Crittenden Dr., 635-8686. This oversize eatery at Gate 4 of the Kentucky Fair & Exposition Center celebrates U of L spor ts with a “walk of fame” loaded with awards, photos, game balls and lots more Cardinal memorabilia. What? Y ou want food too? Sur e!

Casual American dining features everything from a “Cardinal Burger” to steaks and prime rib. $$ p h

RYAN’S FAMILY STEAKHOUSE 5338 Bardstown Rd., 491-1088. This popular North Carolina-based chain offers family dining with good variety: Its diverse and extensive buffet features over 150 items. $$

CARLY RAE’S 103 W . Oak St., 365-1003. This attractive Old Louisville spot with its beautiful patio offers a diverse and appealing menu with an unusually wide variety of casual dining options. $$

STONEY RIVER LEGENDARY STEAK 3900 Summit Plaza Dr ., 429-8944. Stoney River in the Springhurst shopping center is one of the chain’ s first properties outside its Geor gia home. It draws big crowds with its memorable steaks and trimmings, with extra points for friendly ser vice and a comfortable atmosphere. $$$$ p h

CHAMPIONS GRILL 505 Marriott Dr. (Holiday Inn), Clarksville, IN., 283-4411. Known by locals for its Saturday night buffet of New York strip, ribeye and prime rib. Salads, sandwiches, soups and a kidfriendly menu round out the selection. $$ p e ✿

TEXAS ROADHOUSE Green Tree Mall, Clarksville, IN, 280-1103, 4406 Dixie Hwy . 448-0705, 6460 Dutchman’s Pkwy., 897-5005, 3322 Outer Loop, 962-7600. The spirit of the West sets the theme for this popular steak house. Salads, vegetables and breads with hearty side dishes round out your meal options. This is family-style dining, with no tray sliding — service at your table. $$ p TUMBLEWEED SOUTHWEST GRILL (17 locations) (see listing under Southwest/Tex Mex) RED = ADVERTISER

pfh✿

CHEDDAR’S CASUAL CAFÉ 10403 W estport Rd., 339-5400, 1385 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 2809660. This p opular Dallas-based chain, drawing big, hungry crowds with its lar ge bar and familiar “casual to upscale American” fare. $ p h ✿ CHICK INN 6325 Upper River Rd., 228-3646.

Louisville’s familiar Chick Inn moved into upgraded quarters after a fire several years ago, but regulars still call it the “new place.” The fried chicken remains estimable, and a local cr owd calls it home base. $$ p f

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CHILI’S 421 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy ., 425-6800, 3623 Bardstown Rd., 301-8888; 11600 Antonia W ay, 301-8181,9720 Von Allmen Ct., 301-8880. Mor e than just a place to chow down on baby back ribs, this national chain has a wide selection including fajitas, burgers, sandwiches and veggies. $$ p ✿

indeed. Inside and out, it carries the look and feel of a neighbor hood watering hole. The test of a restaurant, though, is the food, and Kar em’s is excellent. You’ll find similarly good chow in a delistyle setting at the original outlet, Kar em’s Deli & Catering, still active on Wallace. $ p f

CULVER’S 4630 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy ., 671-2001.

When the trademark item is called a “ButterBurger” and fr ozen custar d tops the desser t menu, you know you’re not in for diet far e. Quality fast food and friendly service make this chain a popular new East End arrival. $ f

KARMA CAFÉ 1126 Bardstown Rd., 587-0062. Karma Café stays open late and of fers diner-style courses — with a few Middle Eastern dishes for accent — in a casually artsy and informal setting. $ f h ✿

CUNNINGHAM’S 630 S. Fourth St., 587-0526, 6301 Upper River Rd., 228-3625. Carrying on into its third centur y in modern quar ters that captur e much of the nostalgia of its history , Cunningham’s vends fine fish sandwiches and pub grub in this downtown location and in a second eatery on Harrods Creek. $ f CUTTER’S WHARF 1902 Victory Ct., Prospect, 2283100. This floating r estaurant near Harmony Landing in Oldham County r eplaces Har vey’s On The River . In its curr ent incarnation, diners will find fish, steaks, pastas and home-made pizzas, along with the requisite river-rat bar foods. Owner Paul Coogan r eportedly plans Sunday brunch as well. $$ p f h FIRESIDE BAR & GRILL 7611 IN 311, Sellersbur g, IN, 246-5456. Best known for the specially seasoned fried chicken. They also make excellent pastas, steaks, seafood, and salads. Homemade soups ar e created daily and cof fee and desser ts ar e always fresh. $$ p ✿

KERN’S KORNER 2600 Bar dstown Rd., 456-9726.

This family-owned tavern has been a popular neighborhood pit stop since 1978. Kern’ s of fers freshly made ham, chicken salad sandwiches and burgers, as well as a menu of soups, chilis and appetizers. $ p LEGENDS Horseshoe Casino Hotel, Elizabeth, IN, 888-766-2648. The hot and cold shor t or ders ar e served up with riverboat hospitality , but in a Las Vegas atmospher e. A well stocked bar and a live stage welcome the best of r egional and visiting national acts fr om W ednesday thr ough Satur day nights. $$ p e h LYNN’S PARADISE CAFÉ 984 Barret Ave., 583-3447.

One of the most popular places in town for brunch, Lynn’s Paradise Café lur es happy, hungr y cr owds with its hear ty far e and funky decor . L ynn’s sponsors the State Fair’ s tongue-in-cheek Ugliest Lamp Contest, but ther e’s nothing ugly about the delicious and filling food. $$ p ✿ MANHATTAN GRILL 429 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 561-0024. $ ✿

GAVI’S RESTAURANT 222 S. Seventh St., 583-8183.

This family-owned eater y has been ar ound for decades. Standard casual American cuisine adds a few Russian-style specialties such as homemade borsht soup and beef Str oganoff. Daily lunch specials include lots of fresh vegetable dishes. $ ✿

MASTERSON’S 1830 S. Thir d St., 636-2511. A fine, family Louisville tradition, this familiar T udor structure near the U of L campus is the state’ s largest full-ser vice restaurant and the city’ s largest caterer. Serving a lunch buffet Mon.-Fri., 10 a.m.-2 p.m. only. Sunday Jazz Brunch. $ e

GOOSE CREEK DINER 2923 Goose Creek Rd., 3398070. Goose Cr eek Diner of fers old-fashioned comfort food, as the name “diner” suggests, but transcendently adds a gourmet taste to the downhome eats. $

MAX & ERMA ’S 2901 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy ., 4939662, 3921 Summit Plaza Dr ., 412-5229. Max & Erma’s, a national chain that star ted in Columbus, Ohio’s German Village in 1972, has grown to nearly 100 pr operties with a steady formula of friendly service and casual-dining far e that ranges fr om specialty bur gers, soups and salads to mor e weighty entrées. $$ p f ✿

HOME RUN BURGERS & FRIES 2060 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 409-7004. Burgers, dogs and fries and drinks with a baseball theme highlight this suburban spot, and mor e than 20 toppings of fer you a fielder’ s choice of options to dress your burger. $ f ✿ HOOTERS 4120 Dutchmans Ln., 895-7100; 4948 Dixie Hwy., 449-4194; 7701 Pr eston Hwy., 9681606; 700 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville, IN, 2189485; 941 East Hwy. 131, Clarksville, IN 284-9464.

Hooter’s may draw cr owds with its long-standing reputation as a par ty scene, but you’ll stay for the food, an appetizing selection of soups, salads, seafood and of course wings. $ p f e h INTERNATIONAL HOUSE OF P ANCAKES 1220 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN. 285-1772. This is currently the familiar IHOP franchise’ s sole property in the Louisville area. $ h ✿ JOE’S OLDER THAN DIRT 8131 New Lagrange Rd., 426-2074. Going str ong after many years in this Lyndon location, Joe’s has gradually gr own from a little house to a sprawling complex of indoor and outdoor tables with live music many evenings.

Excellent barbecue is a specialty, and so is ice-cold beer. $ p e h KAELIN’S RESTAURANT 1801 Newbur g Rd., 4511801. This Highlands tradition has been around for almost 70 years, and their cheeky claim to have invented the cheesebur ger actually seems to have some basis in fact. A spacious patio and r ecent renovations keep it up to date. $ f ✿ KAREM’S 9424 Nor ton Commons Blvd., 327-5646, 314 Wallace Ave., 895-0084. Karem’s Grill & Pub is one of the first r estaurants located in the villagelike Nor ton Commons, this is a ver y good eater y

h = LATE NIGHT

Celebrating 58 years as Louisville’s hometown favorite for top quality seafood and much, much more.

THREE CONVENIENT LOCATIONS: On the River: 3021 Upper River Road ■ 895-0544 (Just east of Zorn Ave @ I-71)

601 W. Riverside ■ 284-3474 (On the Jeffersonville riverfront across from Louisville)

Around Town: 1610 Kentucky Mills Dr. ■ 240-0700 (Blankenbaker @ 1-64)

MIMI’S CAFÉ 615 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy ., 426-6588.

This California chain, a subsidiar y of Bob Evans, goes urban and upscale where farmer Bob is folksy and country. This new East End location is drawing crowds, building its r eputation on those familiar with the chain from other places. $$ ✿ THE MONKEY WRENCH 1025 Barret Ave., 582-2433.

A popular spot in the urban neighborhood where the Highlands meet Germantown, The Monkey W rench offers comfort food with a stylish spin, top flight music, a relaxed ambience and welcoming ser vice.

The rooftop patio, scheduled to open soon, will add another dimension to the fun. $ p f e h ✿ NORMA JEAN’S TRACKSIDE 119 W. Main St., LaGrange, KY, 222-8044. This Oldham County favorite has evolved over the years, taking on a mor e upscale touches, but hosts Norma and John Burley consistently make it feel a lot like home. $$ p f ✿ O’CHARLEY’S (6 locations) O’Charley’ s, Inc. could serve well as the pictur e in the dictionar y next to “American casual dining.” The Nashville-based chain operates 206 pr operties in 16 states in the Southeast and Midwest, ser ving a straightfor ward steakand-seafood menu with the motto “Mainstream with an attitude.” $$ p h OTTO’S CAFÉ 500 S. Four th St. (Seelbach Hilton Hotel), 585-3201. Southern cooking with gourmet flair makes Otto’ s an intriguing alternative to the Seelbach’s more upscale Oakr oom. Check out the Southern Br eakfast Buf fet and the Executive Express Lunch Buffet. $

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PEPPERS BAR & GRILL 320 W. Jefferson St., (Hyatt Regency) 587-3434. The casual-dining facility in the Hyatt Regency of fers a full dinner menu for hotel guests and outside visitors as well. $$$p h ✿ PUB LOUISVILLE Fourth Str eet Live 569-7782.

Owned by Cincinnati’ s The T avern Restaurant Group, The Pub featur es “nouveau pub cuisine” ranging from shepherd’s pie and fish and chips to more Continental dishes like fried calamari and a seared ahi tuna entrée. $$ p f h RAFFERTY’S OF LOUISVILLE 988 Br eckenridge Ln., 897-3900. 3601 Springhurst Blvd., 412-9000.

This full-service, casual dining establishment has a hearty menu. Specialties like Red Alfr edo Pasta showcase the gourmet offerings along with some of the largest and most creative salad combinations in town. $$ p ✿ RED ROBIN GOURMET BURGERS 9870 Von Allmen Ct., 339-8616, 5000 Shelbyville Rd., 899-9001.

The Robin, a Seattle-based chain well r egarded for “gourmet burgers” and trimmings, has now landed in two East End locations. Despite a full bar , it reportedly attracts hordes of happy youngsters. $$

pfh ROOSTER’S 7405 Pr eston Hwy ., 964-9464. This Columbus-based wings-and-br ews chain conquered Ohio and is now spr eading its franchise wings acr oss the Eastern U.S. Its first Louisville property is gaining popularity for a lively sports bar setting and oversize wings. $ p f h RUBY TUESDAY 11701 Bluegrass Pkwy ., 267-7100, 1354 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN. 288-5010. If success demonstrates quality, then Ruby T uesday’s 600 international properties and 30,000 employees can stand up with pride. They’ve been upholding the slogan “A wesome Food. Serious Salad Bar” in Louisville for a generation. $$ p h ✿ THE RUDYARD KIPLING 422 W. Oak St., 636-1311.

The word “eclectic” fits this Old Louisville eater y in just about every dimension, from its funky decor to its diverse bill of fare, not to mention an array of entertainment that bridges the generations fr om Generation X’ers to aging hippies. $ p f e h ✿ SAM’S FOOD & SPIRITS 3800 Payne Kohler Rd., Clarksville, IN, 945-9757. Opened by a man named Sam some 16 years ago, this popular Southern Indiana institution feeds an army of happy diners. Y ou’ll find seafood, steaks, pastas, salads and desser ts. The menu is extensive and child friendly. $$ p h ✿ SHONEY’S 811 Eastern Pkwy ., 636-1043, 6511 Signature Dr ., 969-8904. For nearly 50 years, Shoney’s r estaurants have been one of America’ s top choices for fast r oadside dining, and happily they’ve kept up with the times. $ SKYLINE CHILI 1266 Bar dstown Rd., 473-1234, Plainview V illage Center, 429-5773, 4024 Dutchman’s Ln., 721-0093, 6801 Dixie Hwy ., 937-4020, 426 W . Market St., 561-9999 721-0093, 4024 Dutchman’s Ln. Louisville’ s outposts of a famous Cincinnati chili r estaurant, these casual eateries offer the r egional favorite (r eally it’ s Gr eek spaghetti sauce, but keep it quiet) and other fastfood dishes. $ h ✿ SPORTSVILLE GRILL & BAR 4004 Gardiner Point Dr., 753-4413. Y ou’ll find a varied menu and a sports-bar theme at Spor tsville Grill, dining r oom of the Holiday Inn Airport East. $$ p ✿ STEAK N SHAKE 3232 Bar dstown Rd., 456-2670, 4913 Dixie Hwy ., 448-4400, 4545 Outer Loop, 966-3109, 2717 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy ., 491-3397, 10721 Fischer Park Dr ., 326-3625, 980 E. Hwy .

131, Clarksville, IN., 285-1154. One of the oldest fast-food chains in the U.S., Steak N Shake traces its ancestry to an Illinois roadside stand in 1934. It now boasts 400 outlets in 19 states but still sticks to the basics: quality steak burgers and hand-dipped shakes served, if you dine in, on real china. $ h ✿ 68 Fall 2008 www.foodanddine.com

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TGI FRIDA Y’S 9990 Linn Station Rd., 425-8185, Fourth Street Live, 585-3577. The original place to loosen the tie and congr egate after the whistle blows. TGIF carries on its par ty atmosphere tradition with American bistro dining and libations. The bill of fare ranges from baskets of appetizers on up to contemporary entrées. $$ p f h ✿

CHECK’S CAFÉ 1101 E. Burnett Ave., 637-9515. You can whif f a scent of Louisville history coming of f the old walls of this quintessential Germantown saloon, along with years of fr ying grease. The bar food her e is about as good as bar food gets, and that’s not bad. The chili and the bean soup ar e particularly recommended. $ p f e

TOAST ON MARKET 736 E. Market St., 569-4099. A historic theater building (long a landmark junque shop) lends a funky atmospher e to T oast, a local breakfast and lunch favorite. Chef Geor ge Morris’s simple yet exciting menu adds a tongue-in-cheek bistro spin to traditional diner far e. $ p f ✿

THE CHICKEN HOUSE 7180 Hwy. 111, Sellersburg, IN., 246-9485. The parking lot of this white frame building in rural Indiana is packed on weekend nights as families from throughout the area wait on delectable fried chicken. This is the very hear t of American comfor t food, including gr een beans, dumplings, and mashed potatoes. $$

TOMMY LANCASTER’S REST AURANT 1629 E. Market St., New Albany, IN, 945-2389. V alue and variety ar e the str ong points of this community tradition and the far e goes fr om burgers to steak.

Friday or Saturday evenings feature a buffet. $$ p TRELLIS RESTAURANT 320 W. Jefferson St. (Hyatt Regency), 587-3434. Dine on café far e in the Hyatt’s lofty atrium lobby while you take advantage of an environment made for people-watching. $$ p TUCKER’S 2441 State St., New Albany, IN, 944-9999.

Tucker’s gives you a little bit of ever ything with a down-to-earth flair, offering burgers, ribs, steaks, a variety of appetizers and pastas. $ p TWIG & LEAF RESTAURANT 2122 Bardstown Rd., 451-8944. A popular Highlands hangout, the “Twig” is probably at its best for breakfast — whether you’re enjoying it while venturing out on a leisur ely Sunday morning or heading home ver y late on a Saturday night. It’ s a place to grab a quick, filling bite, and doesn’t pretend to be more. $ h ✿ VERSATILE 962 Baxter Ave., 583-0320. $$

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THE VILLA BUFFET Horseshoe Casino Hotel, Elizabeth, IN, 888-766-2648. The V illa Buf fet offers an impressive choice of international dishes, with some 150 selections. A seafood buf fet is featured on Fridays. $$ ✿ WESTPORT GENERAL STORE 7008 Hwy . 524, Westport, KY., 222-4626. Only a half-hour’ s drive up the Ohio fr om Louisville, pr oprietors Will and Laura Crawfor d welcome visitors to this cozy destination, of fering a comfor tably sophisticated bill of fare that would in no way be out of place in a fancy city bistro. $$ ✿ THE WING ZONE 905 Hess Ln., 636-2445. Another new wings emporium situated to catch the fancy of U of L fans, Wing Zone excels with jumbo wings in 25 flavors, including traditional Buffalo-style wings that range from Mild to Nuclear. $ f h XAVIER’S 120 W. Broadway (Holiday Inn), 582-2241.

The dining r oom in the Holiday Inn Downtown sports a moniker that evokes memories of the historic St. Xavier High School building that stood on this site for mor e than a century until the Holiday Inn was built in 1963. $$ p ✿

BARBARA LEE’S KITCHEN 2410 Br ownsboro Rd., 897-3967. Barbara Lee’ s has been a late-night refuge for years. It’s a r eliable standby for those in search of traditional blue-plate special lunch food.

Honest grub, honestly priced, in a r ootsy atmosphere. $ h BIG MOMMA’S SOUL KITCHEN 4532 W. Broadway, 772-9580. Big Momma’ s may be the most hospitable place in the W est End to get genuine soul food. A different main course is featured daily, all home-cooked food, including such goodies as baked chicken, smother ed pork chops, meat loaf, catfish … and fried chicken every day. $ ✿ CAROLYN’S 3822 Cane Run Rd., 776-9519. The steam table classic, the “meat ‘n’ two” gives you the roast chicken, gr een beans and mashed potatoes.

Or pork chops, applesauce and limas. $ RED = ADVERTISER

CHICKEN KING 639 E. Br oadway, 589-5464. Spicy, crunchy and sizzling hot fried chicken is the primary draw on a short, affordable menu. $ h COTTAGE CAFÉ 11609 Main St., Middletown, 2449497. This nostalgic old house in the countr yside offers a taste of Kentucky-style cookery in an array of lunch specials that range from homemade soups and sandwiches to the traditional Hot Br own. $ ✿ COTTAGE INN 570 Eastern Pkwy ., 637-4325. Now under new management by the Kreso family, Cottage Inn spor ts a bright new look, and it continues happily doling out the kind of excellent downhome food it has ser ved for more than 70 years. $ DINNER IS DONE 3830 Ruckriegel Pkwy., 267-8686. $ D’NALLEY’S 970 S. Thir d St., 588-2003. Dir t-cheap blue-plate specials and hear ty br eakfasts bring droves to the counters and booths of this classic greasy spoon. Satur day morning hours ar e sporadic, but for a quick plate of meat loaf, gr een beans, and mashed potatoes, D’Nalley’ s is a har d place to beat. $ FORK IN THE ROAD F AMILY RESTAURANT 4951 Cane Run Rd., 448-3903. $ FRONTIER DINER 7299 Dixie Hwy., 271-3663. The name “diner” says it all, and this friendly neighborhood spot on Dixie Highway delivers just what you’d expect in down-home comfor t far e. The word on the str eet, though, is simple: Go for the pancakes. They’re worth a special trip. $ ✿ GENNY’S DINER 2223 Frankfor t A ve., 893-0923.

What’s the difference between Genny’s Diner and a saloon? You can take the kids to Genny’ s. Better still, you can get a darn good meal at Genny’ s, provided that you set your expectations for hear ty, filling and well-prepared diner food. $ p e GOLDEN CORRAL 4032 Taylorsville Rd., 485-0004, 8013 Preston Hwy., 966-4970, 1402 Cedar St., 2582540. Buffet style family dining — one price, all you can eat. Steaks are served beginning at 4 p.m. $ GRANNY’S APRON 2605 Rockfor d Ln., 449-9026.

Everything at Granny’ s Apr on is homemade by owner Jan Bradley , and it tastes that way: Dinner here will r emind you of a trip back in time to Grandmother’s house, assuming that Grandmother was a really good cook. $ HAZELWOOD REST AURANT 4106 T aylor Blvd., 361-9104. Whether you like your eggs over easy, or your cheesebur gers well done, you’ll like the Hazelwood Restaurant. Standar d shor t or ders cooked with lots of character and a low price. $ HOMETOWN BUFFET 1700 Alliant Ave., 267-7044, 6641 Dixie Hwy., 995-3320. This chain ser ves up nostalgic dishes, casseroles, meats and desserts that allow you to set an all-American supper table with the all-you-can eat price tag. $ ✿ INDI’S RESTAURANT 1033 W. Broadway, 589-7985, 3820 W. Market St., 778-5154, 4901 Poplar Level Rd., 964-5749, 2901 Fern V alley Rd., 969-7993, 5009 S. Thir d St., 363-2535. Gr own fr om a tiny West End takeout spot to a mini-chain, Indi’s vends a variety of af fordable soul food and barbecue specialties to take out or eat in. $ h ✿

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JESSIE’S FAMILY RESTAURANT 9609 Dixie Hwy ., 937-6332. Countr y cooking is Jessie’ s specialty , with hearty breakfast, lunch and dinner platters to fill the inner person. $ KINGS FAST FOOD 2101 W. Br oadway, 772-7138.

This tiny , color ful W est End eatery , open for takeout only , of fers a vast selection of filling, affordable urban far e that ranges fr om hot-andspicy chicken wings to rib tips and mor e. $ h KING’S FRIED CHICKEN 1302 Dixie Hwy., 776-3013. $ MR. LOU’S COUNTR Y COTT AGE REST AURANT 5408 V alley Station Rd., 933-0806. Biscuits and red-eye gravy, country ham and grits show of f Mr. Lou’s countr y cooking style. Roast chicken is a dinner favorite, and so are homemade pies. $ ✿ NINNY’S-N-NEW ALBANY 506 W. Main St., New Albany, IN, 941-1235. Home cooking like Mom used to make, assuming that Mom was an excellent cook. The Ninny Bur ger is a signatur e item, but you can settle down to a much mor e serious steak dinner for evening chow. $ O’DOLLYS 7800 Third St. Rd., 375-1690. Homestyle steam-table favorites ar e available fr om br eakfast through dinner, not to mention full bar service that makes O’Dollys a Southwest Louisville destination. $pfh✿ OUR BEST RESTAURANT 5404 Antle Dr., 969-6410, 2835 Holman Ln., Jef fersonville, IN, 288-8133.

The original Our Best, a fine family r estaurant in Henry County, is rapidly growing into a chain, with two properties in the big city now. $$ WAGNER’S PHARMACY 3113 S. Fourth St., 375-3800.

A track-side institution that has as much history as the nearby Twin Spires of Churchill Downs. Soups, sandwiches, shakes, cherry Cokes and an early bird “trainer’s” breakfast can be enjoyed all year r ound.

Racing history on the walls and ser vers who’ll call you “hon.” $ WEBB’S MARKET 944 E. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 5830318. An old-line neighborhood corner grocery store houses a delicious secr et: At the back you’ll find a steam table loaded with exceptional comfor t food.

Fried chicken is excellent, and don’t miss the chili. $

ANN’S BY THE RIVER 149 Spring St., Jeffersonville, IN., 284-2667. This bustling eatery is cafeteria style dining done well. They serve up the standard steam table meat-and-three menu items as good as any. W ith the Ohio River a block away , it’s aptly named. $ ✿ CRAVINGS A LA CAR TE 101 S. Fifth St. (National City Tower), 589-4230. This thrifty deli of fers a variety of build-your-own sandwiches, a soup-andsalad bar , and specialty bars featuring baked potatoes, and a monthly ethnic cr eation. $ ✿ HALL’S CAFETERIA 1301 Stor y A ve., 583-0437.

Hall’s Cafeteria has been doing a brisk business on the steam tables since 1955, attracting customers from Butchertown’s truck loading docks and fr om offices downtown. $ ✿ JANE’S CAFETERIA 4601 Jennings Ln., 454-7286. This 40-year-old family-owned restaurant knows how to cook for folks missing their home table. Count on an attentive staff and fresh southern fare. $ ✿ LANCASTER’S CAFETERIA 223 W. Fifth St., New Albany, IN, 949-2400. Troy Lancaster, the grandson of Southern Indiana catering king T ommy Lancaster, recalls the family’s culinary heritage with this family-friendly buffet-style cafeteria. $ f PICCADILLY CAFETERIA 2131 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 493-9900, 133 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy ., 4231733. An east end favorite for variety , Piccadilly offers r oast beef, fried chicken, cod, steak and shrimp dinners, a gardener’s list of vegetables and a few ethnic dishes for global measur e. $ ✿

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SOUTH SIDE INN 114 E. Main St., New Albany, IN, 945-5966. New Albany’s historic South Side Inn is dishing up cafeteria far e again under new ownership after having been closed for several months. It’s still serving down-home fare, in muchrenovated and spruced-up surroundings. $

DERBY DINNER PLA YHOUSE 525 Marriott Dr ., Clarksville, IN, 288-8281. The play’ s the thing at Derby Dinner Playhouse, Louisville’s long-running entry in the dinner-theater sweepstakes … but the expansive buf fet dinner adds value to the mix. $$$$ e ✿

such as the Big Daddy Str om with beef, Italian sausage, onions and banana peppers. $ h ✿ ARNI’S PIZZA 1208 State St., New Albany , IN, 9451149, 3700 Paoli Pike, Floyds Knobs, IN, 9239805. A favorite Hoosier pizza and sandwich stop.

Insist on getting the Deluxe. $ ✿ BEARNO’S PIZZA (13 locations) What began as a simple, family-run pizzeria near Bowman Field has morphed into a local chain with, at last count, 15 locations. $ p ✿ BRUNO’S PIZZA 5170 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 944-5050. $$ BRUNO’S PIZZERIA & PUB 1919 S. Pr eston, 6341003. $$ p f h ✿

HOWL A T THE MOON Fourth Str eet Live, 5629400. What’ll they think of next? How about a nightclub that featur es a “dueling” piano bar with two pianos and a sing-along concept? Y ou’ll find this 4,000-square-foot club at Fourth Street Live on the ground level. $ p e h

CALIFORNIA PIZZA KITCHEN 7900 Shelbyville Rd. (Oxmoor Center), 425-5125. California pizza became a trend when famous chefs gave this simple Italian fare a multi-ethnic spin with non-traditional Pacific Rim toppings. CPK successfully translates this trend for the mass market. $$ p f ✿

INCREDIBLE DAVE’S 9236 Westport Rd., 426-4790.

“Awesome dining, extr eme fun, wher e family fun hits maximum over drive” is the pr omise at this giant dining and enter tainment venue. It’s not just for kids: Chef Patrick Dale, a Sullivan graduate with 17 years of chef and management experience who helped cater the Grammy Awards in Los Angeles in 2006, offers an upscale menu in a signatur e dining room at the center of it all. $$ p h ✿

CHARLESTOWN PIZZA COMP ANY 850 Main St., Charlestown IN, 256-2699. This welcoming venue on Charlestown’s town square, a short trip upriver from Jef fersonville, is run by folks who learned their pizza and beer at New Albanian Br ewing Company. That’s a fine pedigr ee, and it shows in impressive quality. $$ ✿

JOE HUBER FAMILY FARM & RESTAURANT 2421 Scottsville Rd., Starlight IN, 923-5255. A pleasant 20-minute drive from downtown Louisville, Huber’s has built a solid reputation for simple farm fare that’s well-made, fresh and good. Some of the pr oduce is grown on the premises in season. $$ p f e LUCKY STRIKE LANES Fourth Street Live, 560-1400.

An upscale bowling alley? A classy poolroom? Who knew! These twin concepts fr om Jillian’s founders Stephen and Gillian Foster light up Four th Street Live with a stylish blend of ’50s-style r etro and high-tech modern, plus a menu that ser ves much more than mere bar food. $$ p f h ✿ MY OLD KENTUCKY DINNER TRAIN 602 N. Third St., Bardstown, KY, (502) 348-7300. T alk about a nostalgia trip: My Old Kentucky Dinner T rain offers a four-course meal during a two-hour voyage along scenic Kentucky railr oad tracks near Bardstown in vintage 1940s-era dining cars.

Reservations are strongly recommended. $$$$ p ✿ STAR CRUISES 151 W. Riverside Rd., Jeffersonville, IN, 218-1565. The Ohio River cruise is the best thing about this Love Boat-style yacht that makes nightly all-you-can-eat cruises up the river. $$$$ p f ✿

CICI’S PIZZA 470 New Albany Plaza, New Albany , IN., 944-4942, 3093 Br eckinridge Ln., 452-6700.

Serious bar gain-hunters will find Cici’ s culinar y offer har d to beat. This Dallas-based chain ser ves up all the pizza you can eat for only $3.99. $ ✿ CLIFTON’S PIZZA 2230 Frankfor t A ve., 893-3730.

Clifton’s pizza appeals to me with its adult style, full of the bold flavors of herbs and spices and available with gr own-up toppings like anchovies and artichoke hearts. All this and funky, fun decor makes it one of my favorite local pizzerias. $ f e h ✿ DANNY MAC’S P ASTA & PIZZA 1014 Clarks Ln., 635-7994. $ DOMINO’S PIZZA (20 locations) $$ ✿ FAT DADDY’S PIZZA 10611 W. Manslick Rd., 3637551. $ h ✿ FAT JIMMY’S 2712 Frankfor t A ve., 891-4555; 2208 Bardstown Rd., 479-1040; 13829 English V illa Dr., 244-0840; 528 S. Fifth St., 589-8559. This friendly neighborhood nook of fers a cold mug of beer and a hot slice of pizza, along with sub sandwiches, pasta dishes and salads. The L yndon spot lur es a friendly biker cr owd; the Cr escent Hill eatery r eflects its urban setting. $ ✿

STUMLER RESTAURANT & ORCHARD 10924 St. John’s Rd., Starlight, IN, 923-3832. Fr esh produce is available in the big shed a few steps away , and that fresh produce shows up on the tables her e in mammoth por tions. Combine that with honest fried chicken, big ham steaks, r oast beef, and sandwiches, and you can’t go wrong. $$ f ✿

FRESCO SOUTHWEST GRILL & PIZZA 2047 Lytle St., 776-6077. Locally owned and operated but with development as a chain in its business plan, this comfor table, welcoming spot opened first in the city’ s r estaurant-underserved Por tland neighborhood, of fering fast-food style and a choice of well-made burritos and other Mexican-style goodies and pizza, too. $ f h ✿

ALEXANDER’S PIZZERIA 1611 Charlestown-New Albany Rd., Jeffersonville, IN, 284-9000. $$

FROLIO’S PIZZA 3799 Poplar Level Rd., 456-1000.

Just ar ound the corner fr om the Louisville Zoo, Frolio’s is a neighborhood pizzeria with a cozy, dim Italian-American mood and an all-you-can-eat pizza-and-salad lunch special. $$ f ✿

ANGILO’S PIZZA 1725 Berry Blvd., 368-1032. The local favorite is the steak hoagie, dripping with pizza sauce, pickles and onions. Angilo’s also offers a wide selection of hot pizza pies and cold beer. $ ✿ ANGIO’S REST AURANT 3731 Old Bar dstown Rd., 451-5454. This small Buechel eater y attracts a friendly neighborhood crowd with hefty subs and quality pizzas, along with cold beer. $ ✿ ANNIE’S PIZZA 2520 Portland Ave., 776-6400, 4007 Cane Run Rd., 449-4444. Annie’ s has made-toorder pizza and a variety of stacked sandwiches

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HOMETOWN PIZZA 11804 Shelbyville Rd., 2454555, La Grange Squar e Shopping Center , 2224444. Pasta dishes, hoagies, str omboli and cold beer ar e available, and so is the one-of-a-kind Bacon Cheeseburger pizza. $$ h ✿ IROQUOIS PIZZA 6614 Manslick Rd., 363-3211. $$ ✿ J TRAIN PIZZA & PUB 201 Spring St., Jef fersonville, IN, 283-3663. Owner Joel Stinnett of fers New York style pizza in this eater y named for the New Y ork subway line he rode when he lived in the Big Apple. $$ f e h ✿ www.foodanddine.com Fall 2008 69

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JOCKAMO’S PIZZA PUB 983 Goss A ve., 637-5406.

Old-timers ar e delighted to see Jockamo’ s Pizza Pub back in business in Germantown, more than a decade after it depar ted Bardstown Road. Some of the original owners (except the late Dave W ilder) have r ecreated the style, the mood and the live music, of the original. $$ e ✿ LITTLE CAESAR’S PIZZA 816 Kenwood Dr ., 3665599, 9017 Galene Dr ., 267-8600, 5622 Pr eston Hwy. 966-5800, 6714 Outer Loop, 966-3111, 12418 LaGrange Rd., 241-5445. This Detroit-based pizzeria chain lost market shar e in the ’90s, but business analysts say the company known for its two-for-one “pizza pizza” deal has turned things around with a renewed commitment to quality and service. $$ h ✿ LOUISVILLE PIZZA CO. 3910 Ruckriegel Pkwy ., 267-1188. Also known as Chubby Ray’ s, this local pizzeria makes good, fr esh pizzas and ItalianAmerican sandwiches. $ p f h ✿ LUIGI’S 712 W. Main St., 589-0005. If you think one pizza is pretty much like another, you may not have sampled New Y ork City-style pizza, a tr eat that you’ll find on just about ever y str eet corner ther e, but only Luigi’s offers in its authentic form here. $ ✿ MA ZERELLAS 949 S. Indiana A ve., Sellersburg, IN, 246-9517. Pleasant family-run-for -family-fun establishments. Pizza, pasta, salads and subs served for lunch and dinner seven days a week. $ ✿ MR. GATTI’S 5600 S. Third St., 363-2211, 8594 Dixie Hwy., 935-0100, 3319 Bar dstown Rd., 451-0540, 1108 Lyndon Ln., 339-8338, 2247 S. Pr eston St., 635-6708, 4200 Outer Loop, 964-0920. This Austin-based chain was one of the first national pizzerias to r each Louisville in the 1970s, and quality ingredients — plus Gattiland playgr ounds for the kids — have made its crisp, thin-crust pizzas a popular draw for nearly 30 years. $$ ✿ NEW ALBANIAN BREWING CO. 3312 Plaza Dr ., New Albany, IN, 944-2577. Touting “the best pizza in southern Indiana” is quite a boast, but pizza only tells half of this tasty story: NABC combines the fine pies of Spor tstime Pizza with the pub formerly known as Rich O’ s, Publican Roger Baylor’s remarkable beer list, with mor e than 100 selections fr om ar ound the world — plus locally brewed craft beers — has won international awards.

A pizza like the famous “Herbavor e” (spinach, sliced tomatoes and roasted garlic) makes a sizzling treat, with a world-class beer to wash it down. $ OAK STREET PIZZA 125 E. Oak St., 585-1788. This tiny spot is built for carry-out only: Y ou can walk out with a single slice or a whole pie. It’ s already winning applause fr om beyond its neighbor hood for hand-tossed, New Y ork-style pizza of exceptional quality . Deliver y is available over a wide region. $ h ✿ OLD CHICAGO P ASTA & PIZZA 9010 Taylorsville Rd., 301-7700. This gr owing chain specializes in both thick Chicago-style and thin traditional pizza, plus an imposing list of 110 beers from around the world. $$ p f h ✿ ORIGINAL IMPELLIZZERI’S 1381 Bar dstown Rd., 454-2711, 4933 Br ownsboro Rd. Impellizzeri’ s pizza, a Louisville icon known and loved for its massive pies for a generation, has r eturned to the Highlands! Benny Impellizzeri’ s latest ventur e is already attracting happy cr owds to the quar ters vacated by Alameda. $$$ p f h ✿ PA PA MURPHY’S PIZZA 291 N. Hubbards Ln., 8956363, 5016 Mudd Ln., 962-7272, 9501 Taylorsville Rd., 266-7000, 161 Outer Loop, 361-3444; 4607 Outer Loop, 964-7272; 12535 Shelbyville Rd., 2539191, 6756 Bar dstown Rd., 239-8282, 1305 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 280-7272. $$ ✿ PAPA JOHN’S PIZZA (30 locations) “Papa” John Schnatter got into the pizza game as a Southern Indiana high-school student in 1984 and has built 70 Fall 2008 www.foodanddine.com

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his business into a 3,000-r estaurant international chain on the basis of a simple formula: traditional pizza, made fr om quality ingr edients in a straightforward style. $$ ✿ PIZZA BY THE GUY 814 Lyndon Ln., 426-4044. This locally owned franchise, now in lar ger quar ters, wins its fans’ praise for extra spicy sauce and handtossed dough. $ h ✿ PIZZA HUT (15 locations) $$ ✿ PIZZA KING 3825 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 945-4405, 1066 Kehoe Ln., Jeffersonville, IN., 2828286. The pizza at Pizza King is baked in a stur dy, clay stone oven and hand-tossed with thinner crust where the ingredients go all the way to the edge. $$

WICKS PIZZA PARLOR 975 Baxter Ave., 458-1828, 2927 Goose Cr eek Rd., 327-9425, 12717 Shelbyville Rd., 213-9425, 10966 Dixie Hwy., 9954333. W ick’s wins popularity with a welcoming mix of good pizza, a quality beer list and a friendly neighborhood feel at all thr ee of its eateries. The pies ar e straightfor ward, made with ample toppings. “The Big Wick” is a favorite. $ p h ✿ WINDY CITY PIZZERIA 2622 S. Fourth St., 636-3708.

Stuffed Chicago-style and crispy thin-crust pizzas offer whichever option a pizza lover desir es. $$ WINGS TO GO 4324 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 941-9464. $ h ✿ ZA’S PIZZA 1573 Bardstown Rd., 454-4544. $$

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PIZZA PLACE 2931 Richland Ave., 458-9700. $ h ✿ SICILIAN PIZZA & P ASTA 631 S. Four th St., 5898686. Ready for takeout or eat-in, this downtown storefront offers good, standard (not Sicilian) pizza and other familiar Italian-American dishes. $ h SIR DANO’S PIZZA P ARLOR 469 N. Indiana A ve., Sellersburg IN, 246-3346. $ f ✿ SNAPPY TOMATO 4005 Shelbyville Rd., 895-7511, 10000 Brownsboro Rd., 412-6205, 13206 W. Hwy. 42, 228-9990. A Midwestern pizza-deliver y chain based in Nor thern Kentucky, Snappy Tomato says its pizzas are made with fresh ingredients (including an unusual cinnamon-apple pizza “pie”); and the chicken wings are impressive. $$ h ✿ SPINELLI’S PIZZERIA 614 Baxter A ve., 568-5665.

This tiny stor efront in the city’ s nightclub zone offers a tasty option for the wide-eyed-late-at-night crowd seeking good cheap eats; it’ s open until 5 a.m nightly fr om W ednesday thr ough Satur day.

Better yet, it gives Louisville an authentic taste of Philadelphia specialties: Philly-style pizza and r eal Philly cheese steaks. $ f h ✿ TONI’S MORE THAN PIZZA 3213 Pr eston Hwy ., 634-5400. Friendly ser vice and sizzling pies make this neighbor hood pizzeria a favorite under any name. $$ ✿ TONY BOOMBOZZ 3334 Frankfort Ave., 896-9090, 1448 Bardstown Rd., 458-8889, 12613 Taylorsville Rd., 261-0222. Boombozz wins praise for exceptionally high quality pizza and other quick Italianstyle far e. T ony’s pizzas include both traditional pies and gourmet-style specialties that have won awards in national competition. $$ h ✿ TONY BOOMBOZZ PIZZA & VINO 2813 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy ., 394-0000. Flagship of the Boombozz flotilla, this East End establishment takes the local mini-chain’s winning pizza concept to a higher level. The “fast casual” facility features the awar d-winning Boombozz pizzas and paninis available at its other mostly takeout shops, but presents it for dining in a striking “urban loft” tangerine and jade setting with Italian-made furniture to add an upscale accent, plus wellchosen wine and beer lists. $$ p h ✿ TONY IMPELLIZZERI’S 108 V ieux Carr e Dr., 4290606. The original Impellizzeri’s Pizza is gone from the Highlands, but this decade-old strip-center storefront near Hurstbourne houses br other Tony’s venture. If you like the massive, heavily loaded Impellizzeri pizza style, it’s a treat not to be missed. $$$$ ✿

AMAZING GRACE WHOLE FOODS DELI 1133 Bardstown Rd., 485-1122. If you think “vegan” means only raw carr ots, bean spr outs, seeds and roots, think again. No animals wer e harmed in the making of the tasty alternative sandwiches and other dishes at this neat little deli attached to a spiffy local organic-foods grocery. $ ✿ ANOTHER PLACE SANDWICH SHOP 119 S. Seventh St., 589-4115. If you want to buy a car , go to a car dealer . To buy a carpet, patr onize a carpet shop. And if you’ve got a sandwich on your to-do list, it makes sense to go to a sandwich shop. $ ✿ BACKYARD BURGER 1800 Priority Way, 240-9945, 11201 Oscar Rd., 339-2908. The open flame at these counter-service diners pr ovide the next best thing to a family cookout. Sandwiches, fr esh salads, fruit cobblers and old-fashioned hand-dipped milkshakes enhance the nostalgic theme. $ ✿ BANK SHOT BILLIARDS 403 E. Market St., 5878260. $ h BLIMPIE’S SUBS & SALADS 2020 Brownsboro Rd., 899-7960. Sublime subs — fast and fresh. Blimpie’s is all that … and a bag of chips. $ ✿ BROWN BAG PUB & DELI 2100 S. Preston St., 6356747. This simple little neighborhood spot near the University of Louisville may not be much for atmosphere, but well-fashioned if simple diner fare vaults it into the r ealm of serious destinations for hard-core “foodies,” with extra cr edit for friendly, welcoming service. $ p f h ✿ BUTCHER’S BEST MEA TS & DELI 9521 US Hwy. 42., 365-4650. This fully staf fed meat stor e in Prospect offers custom-cut beef, lamb, pork, bison, chicken and veal, plus a well-stocked deli and specialty foods, with skilled butcher Jimmy Mike at the helm. $ f CALISTOGA AR TISAN SANDWICHES 4000 Dutchmans Ln., 895-3779, 401 E. Chestnut St., 561-9092. “Papa” John Schnatter , founder of the worldwide pizza chain that bears his name, is taking another shot at the fast-food world with the more upscale Calistoga Ar tisan Sandwiches that some have likened to Panera Br ead. $ f ✿ CAT BOX DELI 500 W. Jefferson St., 561-6259. The name of this cozy downtown deli in the PNC Bank building might warrant a double-take, but its feline theme and kitty car toons earn a smile. Open for breakfast and lunch, it of fers a good selection of sandwiches, panini and wraps at budget prices. $ ✿

UNCLE TUBBY’S 3014 Middle Rd., Jeffersonville IN, 288-8850. This Jef fersonville tradition, now in the historic r edbrick Quadrangle, builds its pizzas Indiana-style, “party-cut” in squares, with toppings all the way to the edge. Cracker y paperthin crust is amply blanketed with cheese, tangy sauce and toppings to make an exceptionally good pie. $$ e

THE CHICAGO GYROS 2317 Brownsboro Rd., 8953270. $ f e ✿

VARSITY PIZZA & PINTS 6825 Central A ve., Crestwood, KY, 243-1101. $$ p f h ✿

DERBY CITY DOGS 960 Baxter Ave., 561-2880. This walk-up hot-dog stor efront ser ves Nathan’s brand

RED = ADVERTISER

DANISH EXPRESS PASTRIES 102 1/2 Cannons Ln., 895-2863. Just a few tables turn this takeout nook into a sit-in breakfast and lunch spot for a handful of diners at a time. Full breakfasts and light lunches are available, but as the name implies, Danish pastries are the specialty, and they’re fine. $ ✿

p = FULL BAR

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all beef hot dogs with gourmet style toppings, bratwurst, corn dogs, veggie dogs, side dishes, ice cream and smoothies — they’ll even give your r eal doggie a tr eat if she’ s along with you. Catering to the nightclub cr owd, it’s open until 5 a.m. on the weekends. $ f h ✿ DEVINO’S 104 W. Main St., 569-3939. This stylish deli of fers another lunch and dinner option downtown. Sandwiches ar e made fr om quality Boar’s Head meats and cheeses cut on the premises, with dining inside and on the patio; package beer and wine is also available. $ f DINO’S DOWN TO LUNCH CAFÉ 239 S Fifth St. (Kentucky Home Life Building) 585-2874. $ ✿ DIZZY WHIZZ DRIVE-IN 217 W. St. Catherine St., 5833828. This neighborhood eatery is an institution. It goes back mor e than 50 years and hasn’ t changed much. It opens early and stays open late and of fers good value for what you’d expect. $ f DOOLEY’S BAGELCA TESSEN 980 Br eckenridge Ln., 893-3354, 2415 Lime Kiln Ln., 426-3354. This convenient deli specializes in bagels, as the name implies. Breakfast means fresh bagels with an array of cr eam cheese, sausage, eggs and cof fee. At lunchtime lines form for sandwiches — subs, panini, wraps, hot melts and cold cuts. $ ✿ THE FEED BAG DELI 133 Br eckenridge Ln., 8961899. The grilled salmon bur ger is worth the visit, as well as the Triple Crown wrap with thr ee meats or a fr esh veggie wrap. Soups, desser ts top of f the lunch-only schedule. $ ✿ FRASCELLI’S NEW YORK DELI & PIZZERIA 6010 Crestwood Station, 243-9005. This Oldham County shop offers Italian-style deli sandwiches and pizza, plus home-style Italian hot dishes fr om lasagna to baked ziti. $ p h ✿ GREAT LIFE CAFÉ 9565 Taylorsville Rd., 297-8807, 9463 W estport Rd., 420-0707, 951 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 284-5624. This small but growing local chain, founded in 2006 by Steve and Jill Mazzoni and their friend Jason McCune, specializes in health and nutrition supplements and vitamins. $ ✿

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wee hours (the joint is open 24 hours). If Louisville is home to a budding Charles Bukowski, ther e’s a good chance he’ s sitting at Juanita’ s counter right now, recovering from last night’s excesses. $ h JUST FRESH BAKER Y CAFÉ & MARKET 1255 Bardstown Rd., 451-2324. A national chain of fers fast-food fare billed as healthy and natural. $$f ✿ KC’S CHICAGO HOT DOG STAND 1770 Bardstown Rd., 454-9727. Walk up to this small stand and load up a V ienna All Beef hotdog “Chicago style” with mustard, ketchup, onions, cucumbers, tomatoes, salt, pepper and neon-green relish. There’s also corn dogs, and Hawaiian shave ice. No indoor dining, but some seats out front. $ f ✿ LIL’ LOAFERS BAKER Y 8522 Pr eston Hwy ., 9693990. For years, hair dresser Sheryl Lukenbill used to bake banana br eads and other tr eats as gifts for her customers. Her goodies wer e so popular that now Sheryl and her husband Paul have gone fulltime with Lil’ Loafers Bakery. $ ✿ LITTLE CHEF 147 E. Market St., New Albany , IN, 949-7567. Ever y city needs a postage-stamp-sized spot that knows how to fry potatoes and grill up a burger. In New Albany , the place is Little Chef.

Biscuits and gravy , fried eggs, and bur gers, in a joint that seems like a thr owback to the hear tland of America, circa 1940. $ f h ✿ LONNIE’S BEST T ASTE OF CHICAGO 121 St. Matthews Ave., 895-2380, 1034 Bardstown Rd., 4512965. This appetizing operation offers genuine Chicago hot dogs and a taste of Chicago atmosphere for a price that won’t hurt your wallet. Make Lonnie’s the place to go when you’ve got a hankering for Windy City fare. $ LOTSA PASTA 3717 Lexington Rd., 896-6361. Lotsa Pasta originated as an Italian specialty-food stor e, and it has been a local favorite for mor e than 20 years. It now of fers deli meats and cheeses and an eclectic international selection of sausages and

cheese. A large sit-down section offers a comfortable place to enjoy cof fee, pastry and sandwiches made to order in the deli. $ ✿ LUNCH TODAY 590 Missouri Ave., Jeffersonville, IN, 282-1005. This outfit pr epares its shar e of the soups, salads and sandwiches that the downtown workforce needs to re-energize. $ f MAIN EA TERY 643 W. Main St., 589-3354. Smack dab in the middle of the Main Str eet historic district, this fashionable deli lur es the savvy business midday crowd. $ f ✿ MCALISTER’S DELI 10041 Forest Green Blvd., 4258900, 2721 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 671-2424, 2400 Lime Kiln Ln., 339-8544, 6510 Bar dstown Rd., 239-9997, 12911 Shelbyville Rd., 244-5133, 1305 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 282-3354. Emphasizing quality customer ser vice, this delicatessen ladles up such soups as gumbo and chicken tortilla along with cutting boar d favorites. They have a special way with a tumbler of sweet iced tea and lemon. $ ✿ MORRIS DELI & CATERING 2228 Taylorsville Rd., 458-1668. Many locals still know this small, popular Highlands deli as Kar em Deeb’s after its longtime previous owner. Mostly for takeout — it packs in a few cr owded tables — it’ s known for high-quality, hand-made deli fare. $ ✿ NANCY’S BAGEL BOX 651 S. Fourth St., 589-4004.

An outpost of Nancy’ s Bagel Gr ounds in Clifton, this new outlet in the new downtown Gourmet Market (the old Kentucky Theater building in Theater Squar e) of fers a similar mix of light far e and Nancy’s unique take on the bagel. $ ✿ NANCY’S BAGEL GROUNDS 2101 Frankfor t Ave., 895-8323. A friendly and casual neighbor hood gathering spot. Of ferings include soups, snacks, coffee drinks and bagels made on the pr emises to its own rather idiosyncratic formula. $ f ✿

HEAVENLY HAM 3602 Nor thgate Cr t, New Albany , IN, 941-9426. This franchise location of the “spiralsliced, honey-spice glazed” ham-to-go chain of fers sandwiches of the trademark pr oduct. There’s also smoked turkey, as well as box lunches, ham and smoked turkey by the pound or in bulk. $ HONEYBAKED CAFÉ 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 8956001, 6423 Bardstown Rd., 239-9292. $ JASON’S DELI 410 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 412-4101.

Don’t look for a New Y ork kosher-style deli at this Texas-based chain, but suburbanites ar e lining up at its Hurstbourne location for oversize sandwiches, salads, wraps and more. $ f ✿ JERSEY MIKE’S SUBS AND SALADS 10266 Shelbyville Rd., 244-1991, 10519 Fischer Park Dr., 425-1025, 9156 T aylorsville Rd., 499-9830.

East Coast-style sub shop with local faves that includes cheese, ham, pr osciuttini, capicola, salami, pepperoni and fixings. $ ✿ JIMMY JOHN’S SUB SHOP 967 Baxter Ave., 587-0550, 4000 Shelbyville Rd., 894-3331, 3901 Dutchmans Ln., 894-9393,415 W. Jefferson St., 625-7101, 1321 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 425-4515. This Illinois-based sandwich-shop chain of fers a wide selection of standard-issue subs that benefit fr om fresh quality ingredients. W e’re par ticularly smitten with the alternative br ead option, thick-sliced seven-grain or wrapped with lettuce. T ry the “Gourmet Veggie Club” for a vegetarian treat. $ f h ✿ JUANITA’S BURGER BOY 1450 S. Br ook, 635-7410.

For a r eal slice of Louisville life, this weather ed greasy spoon at the corner of Br ook and Burnett is the real thing. Neighborhood denizens drink coffee and chow down on bur gers and breakfast until the

h = LATE NIGHT

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= MENU AVAILABLE ON-LINE ONLY

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OLLIE’S TROLLEY 978 S. Thir d St., 583-5214. A little piece of fast-food history remains on an urban street corner in Old Louisville. It’ s one of the nation’s few sur viving tr olleys of the Louisvillebased chain that spr ead acr oss the nation in the ’70s. Oversize bur gers with a spicy , homemade flavor are just as good as ever. $ ORDERS UP CAFÉ & DELI 1981 Nelson Miller Pkwy., 245-5991. Quick and casual, Or ders Up of fers the inviting atmospher e of dr opping in to someone’ s home for lunch. Soups salads and fr eshly made sandwiches ar e uniformly appetizing, and sandwiches are affordably priced at $5 or less. $ ✿ PANERA BREAD CO. 5000 Shelbyville Rd., 8999992, 6221 Dutchmans Ln., 895-9991, 601 S. Hurstbourne Ln., 423-7343, 10451 Champion Farms Dr., 426-2134, 3131 Poplar Level Rd., 6359164, 1040 V eterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 2889400, 400 W. Market St., 540-5250. W arm breads finish-baked on the premises make a tasty base for a variety of sandwiches. Soups, salads, cof fee drinks and a fr ee W iFi hotspot make Panera’ s outlets popular gathering places. $ f ✿ PAUL’S FRUIT MARKET 3922 Chenoweth Sq., 8968918, 4946 Br ownsboro Rd., 426-5059, 12119 Shelbyville Rd., 253-0072, 3704 T aylorsville Rd., 456-4750. One of Louisville’ s popular sour ces for produce, cheeses, deli items, and the like. Deli sandwiches and salads are available (takeout only). $ ✿ PENN ST ATION (16 Locations). Billed as the East Coast Sub Headquarters, this sandwich kitchen does a brisk business here in the Louisville area. $ ✿ QUIZNO’S SUBS (16 locations) Toasted breads, a sandwich selection of meats, veggies and fish are built to fight hunger. Fresh soups ar e available daily, from chili to chowder; so are salads and desserts. $ ✿ SAMMI JO’S SANDWICHES & MORE Shelby St., 365-1809. $

1496 S.

SCHLOTZSKY’S DELI 10531 Fischer Park Dr ., 4258447, 12915 Shelbyville Rd., 244-9069. The original Schlotzsky’s of fered just one kind of sandwich — “The Original” — when it opened its first eatery in Austin, Texas, in 1971. Now this national chain vends a full selection of deli-style far e, with one significant improvement on the traditional deli: the servers are invariably polite. $ f ✿ SHADY LANE CAFÉ 4806 Brownsboro Center, 8935118. Another attractive East End stor efront, Shady Lane Café, has been earning good r eviews for simple br eakfast and lunch far e ser ved in friendly surroundings. $ ✿ SOUPY’S 3019 Br eckenridge Ln., 451-5325. In the soup kettles you will find such classics as cheesy potato, bean and ham, br occoli and cheese, chicken and dumplings and mor e. At the cutting board they’ll make your meat, cheese and veggie sandwiches according to your custom design. $ ✿ THE STARVING ARTIST CAFÉ & DELI 8034 New Lagrange Rd., 412-1599. $ ✿ STEVENS & STEVENS 1114 Bar dstown Rd., 5843354. Sharing space with the popular Ditto’ s, Stevens & Stevens is primarily known for catering and takeout far e. They cook just as well if you choose to stay in, though, of fering appealing sandwiches and deli fare with a healthy twist. $ ✿ SUB ST ATION II 3101 Fern V alley Rd., 964-1075.

The har dy No. 19, a six-meat-and-cheese super sub, keeps the stor e buzzing. An array of sandwiches, salad sides and desser ts fill out an appetizing lunch menu. $ ✿ THE BODEGA 829 E. Market St., 569-4100. At the back of the Felice Plaza east of downtown, the Bodega combines a small specialty-food market, wine-and-beer shop and deli under one compact roof. They’ll build your lunch to dine in or enjoy on their sunny patio. $ f ✿ THORNBERRY’S DELI & PIES 367-8394. $ 72 Fall 2008 www.foodanddine.com

5103 S. Thir d St.,

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Albany, IN, 285-1998. Named for its first r estaurant’s location in a former feed stor e with that down-home countr y feel, Mark’ s impr esses with high-quality hickor y-smoked pork and chicken, and rich, silken South Carolina barbecue sauce, the yellow mustard-based variety. $$ f

TUSCANO’S 4100 Pr eston Hwy., 364-9998. Sharing space with the Noble Romans pizzeria, T uscano’s adds a br oader menu of subs, sandwiches and wraps to Noble Roman’s pizza fare. $ h ✿ W.W. COUSINS REST AURANT 900 Dupont Rd., 897-9684. This locally owned and operated eater y looks a lot like the national Fuddruckers chain, but the local boys do a better job, with huge burgers on magisterial home-baked buns and a Metr opolitan Museum of toppings. $ ✿ WALL ST. DELI 225 Abraham Flexner W ay (Jewish Hospital) 585-4202. Of fering New York style with Kentucky flair, this busy downtown deli will ser ve in-house diners or take or ders for deliveries.

Authentic Nathan’s Hot Dogs are a specialty. $ ✿

BOOTLEG BARBECUE COMPANY 9704 Bardstown Rd., 239-2722, 7508 Pr eston Hwy ., 968-5657.

Bootleg Barbecue of fers a touch of rusticity and a good helping of country hospitality, as it dishes out hearty por tions of well-pr epared and af fordable smoked meats and fixin’s. It’s one of the few places in Louisville where you can get Western Kentuckystyle mutton barbecue. $ f BRANDON’S BAR-B-QUE 9246 Westport Rd., 4266666. Featuring hickor y-smoked T ennessee-style barbecue sandwiches and filling, af fordable dinners, this long-time East End favorite has added two more neighborhood locations. $ BRUCE’S SMOKEHOUSE & BALLP ARK GRILL 3065 Breckenridge Ln., 459-5201. $$ CLARK BOY BAR-B-Q 6728 Johnsontown Rd., 9335577. If it’ s a little of f the beaten path, ther e’s nothing the matter with that. Clark Boy’ s r easonably priced W estern Kentucky-style barbecue is well worth a special trip. Like many mom ’n’ pop eateries, it accepts cash only, no plastic. $ FAMOUS DA VE’S BAR-B-QUE 8605 Citadel W ay, 493-2812, 1360 V eterans Pkwy ., Clarksville, IN, 282-3283. This franchise chain operation may be based in the twin cities, but it looks like a Geor gia gas station with its exuberant, if tongue-in-cheek faux country decor. The impor tant thing, though, is the food, and Dave’ s excels with genuine, hickory-smoked barbecue. $$ p f FINLEY’S HICKOR Y SMOKED BAR-B-Q 1500 W. Broadway, 581-0298. Rib tips ar e the specialty but you’ll find turkey legs, ham, half-chickens, pork chops and shr edded beef and pork — all for dinners or sandwiches, and barbecued pig’s feet for the BBQ purists. $ f FIRE FRESH BBQ 6435 Bar dstown Rd., 239-7800, 211 S. Fifth St., 540-1171, 8610 Dixie Hwy ., 9957585. Fire fighters, it is said, eat hear tily and well.

It’s no coincidence, then, that Fir eFresh Bar B Q pays homage to local fir e depar tments in its restaurant’s decor. The barbecue and country fixin’s stand comparison to the best firehouse cuisine. $ f JIMBO’S BBQ 801 Kenwood Dr ., 375-1888. This South End barbecue shack, an outpost of a popular spot in Corydon, IN, offers a fine range of barbecue meats skillfully smoked on the pr emises, with sauce served on the side as it should be. $ JUCY’S SMOKEHOUSE BAR-B-QUE 7626 New Lagrange Rd., 241-5829. Jucy’s offers exceptionally good T exas-style barbecue fr om a little wooden shack that looks just like a countr y BBQ joint should. Highly recommended. $$ f KENTUCKY BBQ CO. 1800 Frankfor t A ve., 8953419. The folks formerly known as the Bourbon Brothers offer first-rate ribs and smoked meats in this older Clifton venue. $$ p f MARK’S FEED STORE 11422 Shelbyville Rd., 2440140, 1514 Bardstown Rd., 458-1570, 10316 Dixie Hwy., 933-7707, 3827 Charlestown Rd., New RED = ADVERTISER

OLE HICKORY PIT BAR-B-QUE 6106 Shepherdsville Rd., 968-0585. Located in an attractive house not far fr om General Electric’ s Appliance Park, this Louisville r elative of a famous W estern Kentucky barbecue pit is well worth the trip. $ f PICNICATERS BBQ & CATERING 514 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 584-7427. Located across from Louisville Gardens, grills outdoors year ‘r ound, placing hot sauce, wings and chops right in the middle of a hungry business district. $ f PIG CITY BBQ 12003 Shelbyville Rd., 244-3535.

Down-home and honest, the name of this popular Middletown barbecue eater y pr etty much says it all. Smoke ’em if you’ve got ’em — and they do — with all cherry wood. $$ f PIT STOP BAR-B-QUE 13303 Magisterial Dr ., 2536740. This familiar old local brand, long a downtown fixtur e, now of fers its smoky T exas barbecue in an East End industrial park just off the Gene Snyder Freeway and Old Henry Road. $ RITE WAY BAR-B-CUE HOUSE 1548 W. St. Catherine St., 584-9385. Open since 1943, this W est End landmark in a one-time neighbor hood gr ocery, offers exceptional urban barbecue, including ribs that rank with the city’s best. $ f h RITE WAY BAR-B-CUE HOUSE 300 W. Chestnut St., 922-3156, Barbecue meister Kalvin Br own, who presided over the smokers at the W est End RiteWay for many years, now brings his skills to a downtown establishment with similar far e but no business connection to the original. $ p e h RUBBIE’S BAR-B-QUE & BREW 6905 Southside Dr., 367-0007. This South End family knows how to do BBQ. It may be of f the beaten path for some folks but here you’ll find the bounty of secr et BBQ recipes. $ p f e h SCOTTY’S RIBS AND MORE 14049 Shelbyville Rd., 244-6868. Ribs, pork, chicken a la car te and dinners. The small East End venue moves a lot of pizzas and salads as well. $$ p SHACK IN THE BACK BBQ 406 Mt. Holly Rd., 3633227. $ f e SHANE’S RIB SHACK 12420 Lime Kiln Ln., 4293907. “Rib” may be its middle name, but you can also fill up on wings, chicken tenders, sandwiches and more at this growing Atlanta-based chain, now open in this former Tijuana Flats facility. $$ f h SMOKETOWN USA 1153 Logan St., 409-9180. The name “Smoketown” does double-duty at this T exMex storefront just east of Old Louisville in the the Smoketown neighbor hood. Ribs ar e juicy and smoky; the pinto beans and the Blue Bunny ice cream from Texas are not to be missed. $ f ✿ SMOKEY BONES BBQ 2525 Hurstbourne Gem Ln., 491-7570. A pr operty of Orlando’ s Dar den fastfood chain, which also runs Olive Gar den and Red Lobster, this noisy Stony Brook-area eatery conveys more of a spor ts-bar than barbecue concept, but the ribs are fine. $$ p TONY ROMA ’S 150 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy ., 3278500. From the tomato tang to a smoky Blue Ridge savor, Roma’s advertises its ribs as the best dr essed in town. Bur gers, chicken and steaks ar e available as well, but we r ecommend the racks and baby backs of pork and beef. $$$ p VINCE STATEN’S OLD TIME BARBEQUE 13306 W. U.S. 42, 228-7427. Author Vince Staten, who literally wrote the book on barbecue (Real Barbecue), has moved on, but his name remains on this neighborhood joint out the road in Oldham County. $

p = FULL BAR

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WOOD CITY GRILL 612 S. Fifth St., 290-0518. The lunchtime cr owds that flock to W ood City find more than just another barbecue pit. Chef Allen Sims comes fr om a long line of barbecue cooks, and he boasts experience in the kitchen at Vincenzo’s. A wide variety of meats — even goat — comes with exotic sauces that span the globe. $

BEEF O’BRADY’S 239 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 2542322, 5628 Bar dstown Rd., 239-2226, 10000 Brownsboro Rd., 327-5496, 3101 S. Second St., 637-3737, 105 LaFollette, 923-1316, 1450 Veterans Pkwy., Jeffersonville, IN, 285-9464. If you think your basic spor ts pub is only suitable for guys guzzling beer , take another look: Beef O’Brady’s puts the “family” in “family spor ts pub,” offering a wholesome environment. $ h BENTLEY’S SPORTS BAR & GRILLE 2800 Crums Ln., 778-8886. The familiar range of bar and grill fare and libations will make the neighbors feel at home in this new West End watering hole. $ p BIG AL’S BEERITAVILLE 1715 Mellwood Ave., 8934487. Good people, good food, cold beer: The sign out fr ont says it all, and we might add “cool atmosphere” in praise of this small but friendly Butchertown oasis. $ p f e BLUE MULE SPORTS CAFÉ 10301 Taylorsville Rd., 240-0051. Longtime buddies John O’Connor and Jim “Mule” Riley talked for years about opening a restaurant and spor ts bar . Riley died befor e their dream came true. But now O’Connor pr oudly presides over this 90-seat casual Jef fersontown eatery and watering hole, and he has named it in affectionate memory of his friend “Mule.” $ p e BROWNIE’S “THE SHED” GRILLE & BAR 237 Whittington Pkwy ., 326-9830. Restaurant owner and namesake Keith Br own used to host neighborhood gatherings in a shed at his home. Now he brings the same sociable concept to his pub and eatery. Br ownie’s may be the closest thing Hurstbourne has to a Germantown neighbor hood saloon. $ p h BUFFALO WILD WINGS (BW -3’S) 6801 Dixie Hwy., 935-1997, 3900 Shelbyville Rd., 899-7732, 9134 Taylorsville Rd., 499-2356, 3584 Springhurst Blvd., 394-9596, 12901 Shelbyville Rd., 254-9464, 1055 Bardstown Rd., 454-3635. As much a spor ts bar as a r estaurant, this national franchise chain offers tasty snack-type far e, including the chain’ s trademark Buffalo chicken wings. $$ p f h BUFFALO WINGS & RINGS 2610 Chamberlain Ln., 243-4464. $ p f h CHAMPIONS SPOR TS REST AURANT 280 W .

Jefferson St. (Louisville Marriott), 671-4246.

Another popular option at the striking new downtown Marriott, Champions pr ovides a fun, casual dining alternative with a Kentucky sports theme — and a galler y of big-scr een televisions to keep the sports action flowing as fr eely as the libations and upscale pub grub. $$ p f h CHATTER’S BAR & GRILL 2745 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 961-9700. $$ p f ✿ CONNOR’S PLACE 132 E. Market St., New Albany , IN, 590-3377. Hoosier Restaurateur Dave Himmel has moved Connor’ s Place to a new location, retaining the casually upscale mood and food that he made a trademark in the original venue. $ p f e h DANNY BOY’S 1101 S. Clark Blvd., Clarksville IN, 283-3566. $ p e h DELTA RESTAURANT 434 W. Market St., 584-0860.

It’s not quite as historic as Gideon Shr yock’s Jefferson County Cour thouse ar ound the corner , but this popular bar and shor t-order spot seems as if it has been a hangout for lawyers and the courthouse crowd for just about as long as ther e’s been a Courthouse. $ p ✿

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DIAMOND PUB & BILLIARDS 3814 Frankfort Ave., 895-7513. $ p f h ✿ FLABBY’S SCHNITZELBURG 1101 L ydia St., 6379136. Family-owned since 1952, Flabby’ s is a quintessential Germantown saloon. It’s also one of the city’s top destinations for inexpensive downhome eats, fr om authentic German dishes to fantastic fried chicken on weekends. $ ✿ FLANAGAN’S ALE HOUSE 934 Baxter A ve., 5853700. Gourmet pizzas, hoagies, and an enormous beer selection draw Highlands folks to this cozy neighborhood pub. For a late night pizza (the kitchen’s open until 2 a.m.), it’ s one of the best options in the city. $$ p f h FOUR KINGS CAFÉ 4642 Jennings Ln., 968-2930.

Steam-table ser vice featuring spaghetti and meatballs, lasagna and chicken attract a hungry lunch cr owd at this casual spot, and brunch specialties are just as popular. $ p FOX & HOUND 302 Bullitt Ln., 394-7620. A “British pub” concept operated by a W ichita, Kansas-based chain, Fox & Hound features a “mid-casual” menu with burgers, pizza, chicken and pot roast, in a large venue with plenty of billiar d tables and an ample supply of large-screen televisions. $$ p f h ✿ GERSTLE’S PLACE 3801 Frankfort Ave., 742-8616.

A popular St. Matthews neighborhood tavern since 1924. Although dining is secondar y to booze and sports her e, the food goes well beyond mer e pub grub. $ p e h ✿ GRANVILLE INN 1601 S. Thir d St., 635-6475. A longtime gathering place for U of L students, faculty and fans, this stur dy r edbrick tavern just north of the university campus of fers a good variety of bar munchies, sandwiches and simple grilled far e plus pizza. It’ s per haps best known, though, for the signatur e Granville Bur ger, widely reputed as one of the best bur gers in town. $ GREAT AMERICAN GRILL 2735 Crittenden Dr .

(Hilton), 637-2424. Located in the Louisville International Airpor t Hilton. Salads, bur gers, pastas and sandwiches ar e available for the casual diner; main entrées include New York strip, filet of salmon and more. $ p f HITCHING POST INN 7314 Fegenbush Ln., 2394724. In addition to its full bar and beer gar den, and lively conversation, the Hitching Post Inn offers an array of pub grub, including bur gers, chicken tenders, and sandwiches. $ p h HOOPS GRILL AND SPORTS BAR 6733 Strawberry Ln., 375-4667. The name says it all: spor ts, casual dining and good things to drink all find their natural meeting place at this friendly neighborhood spot wher e hot wings and hoops r eign supreme. $ p f h ✿ ICE BREAKERS 252 E. Market St., 618-2050. Picking up where a string of nightspot eateries have left off in this ar ts-district venue, Ice Br eakers bids for success with a simple, appetizing mix of soups, salads, sandwiches and pizza — and libations of course — with the grill menu available until bar closing time. $ p f e h INDIGO JOE’S SPOR TS PUB & REST AURANT 1321 Herr Ln., 423-1633. Louisville’ s first outpost of a growing Los Angeles-based chain, Indigo Joe’ s is a family-friendly American-style spor ts bar . It features large portions and 44 flat-screen televisions, with speakers on the tables so diners can tune in the sporting event of their choice. $$ p f JAKE’S & MR. G’S 10432 Shelbyville Rd., 244-0165 $ p JERSEY’S CAFÉ 1515 L ynch Ln., Clarksville, IN, 288-2100. Quality, af fordable far e that goes well beyond pub grub to include an awesome smokehouse bur ger and barbecued ribs so tender , they say, that you can just tap the end of the bone on your plate, and the meat falls of f. $ p e h ✿

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THE LIGHTHOUSE 202 Main St., Jef fersonville, IN, 283-0077. This lighthouse has been a beacon of casual, home cooking and tavern envir onment for years. Daily specials, appetizers, chicken and fish baskets, salads and desserts round out the menu. $ ✿ MAGGIE’S NEIGHBORHOOD BAR & GRILLE 9909 Taylorsville Rd., 267-9604. Just of f Jeffersontown’s old T own Squar e, this neighbor hood gathering place of fers casual diner -style far e in a spor ts bar setting with a fine fir eplace to add atmospher e. $$

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WOODY’S PUB & GRILL 12205 Westport Rd., 3278002. Woody’s offers a lively sports bar concept in this East End venue near the Ford Kentucky Truck plant. $ p f h ZAZOO’S 102 Bauer Ave., 894-8030. If you’re looking for casual dining, ZaZoo’s offers a mighty appealing option with its laid-back and welcoming neighborhood bar feeling. $ p f e h ✿

pfh✿ MICHAEL MURPHY’S RESTAURANT 701 S. First St., 587-0013. This full ser vice restaurant and bar has accommodated hardy thirsts and appetites for a couple of generations. Despite the Irish appeal, the food is American and lots of it. $ p MY BAR 3306 Plaza Dr., New Albany IN, 948-6501. $

pfeh NEW DIRECTION BAR & GRILL 2630 Chamberlain Ln., 243-8429. $ p e h NV T AVERN 1202 Bar dstown Rd., 452-6101. The little Cribstone Pub has closed, but this little Highlands eatery was too lovable to stay dark for long. Look for libations and appetizing bar far e here. $ p f e h PUCKER’S BAR & GRILL 4041 Preston Hwy., 3647250. This South-end spot of fers a good-size dining r oom and a par ticularly attractive alfr esco patio. The bill of far e appears longer and mor e varied than your typical bar menu, our correspondent reports. $ p f e h RUSTIC FROG 1720 Old River Rd., New Albany IN, 608-2543. $ p f e h SAINT’S 131 Breckinridge Ln., 891-8883. Almost like two r estaurants in one, Saints featur es both a small, intimate, candle-lighted r oom and a lar ger, happily boister ous main r oom with the look and feel of a sports bar. $$ p e h ✿ STUDIO’S GRILLE & PUB 207 E. Main St., New Albany, IN, 590-3171. Add Studio’ s to the downtown New Albany Renaissance. Replacing Connor’s Place in the old Bader Building, T rish Meyer’s fine dining r oom and bar of fers an historic envir onment, a stylish outdoor cour tyard and a galler y of local art. $$ p f h SULLY’S SALOON 434 S. Four th St., (Four th Street Live) 585-4100. $$ p f h TAILGATERS SPORTS BAR & GRILL 2787 S. Floyd St., 637-5241. Billed as a pr emier destination for good food and lots of fun, this casual spot next to Papa John’ s Stadium featur es classic American favorites and seafood specialties, plus a full bar , TVs and an expansive game r oom. $ p f e h TENGO SED CANTINA 432B Fourth St., 540-1461.

“Tengo Sed” is Spanish for “I’m thirsty,” and if that’s your pr oblem, you can easily solve it in this popular Latino-accented watering hole in Four th Street Live. A selection of Cancun-style star ters, tacos and sandwiches is available. $$ p f h THE BACK DOOR 2787 S. Floyd St., 637-5241. Longtime owners John Dant and Mike Ewing are known for running one of the city’s friendliest pubs at this Mid-City Mall saloon. Limited bar far e, but don’ t miss the chicken wings. $ p f h THE MENU ON THE RIVER 100 Riverside Dr ., Jeffersonville, IN, 282-2500. When Jimmy’s on the River vacated this river front spot in Jef f, the proprietors of The Main Menu in New Albany saw an oppor tunity and took it, moving their entir e operation over her e, of fering pub grub and libations with a great river view. $ p f TURKEY JOE’S 2809 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy ., 3279464. Turkey Joe’s advertises “Wings, Burgers and More,” but hot wings are the specialty, and you can take your pick of chicken, turkey or boneless chicken pr epared by a Sullivan-trained chef in a comfortable sports-bar setting. $ p h 74 Fall 2008 www.foodanddine.com

top spot for Asian far e. A lovely patio at the r ear affords an alfr esco dining experience overlooking shady Beargrass Creek. $$$ p f ✿

VIC’S CAFÉ E. Market St., New Albany, IN, 944-4338. $

BLUEGRASS BREWING COMP ANY 3929 Shelbyville Rd., 899-7070, 636 E. Main St., 584-2739, 2 Theater Square, 568-2224. A must-stop destination for beer lovers on the national ar tisanal-brew trail, but it’ s mor e than just a br ewpub. BBC’ s management gives equally serious attention to both liquid and solid fare, making this a great place to stop in for both dinner and a beer . $ p f e ✿ CUMBERLAND BREWS 1576 Bar dstown Rd., 4588727. Giving new meaning to the term “micr obrewery,” Cumberland Br ews may be one of the smallest eateries in town. It’s usually packed, earning its crowds the old-fashioned way by providing very good food, friendly service, and high-quality handcrafted artisan beers. $ f e h ✿ NEW ALBANIAN BREWING CO. 3312 Plaza Dr., New Albany, IN, 944-2577. (see review under Pizza)

BD’S MONGOLIAN GRILL 1890 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 499-4406. The proprietors of this Michiganbased East End chain invite you to “go Mongo,” building your own choice of ingredients and sauces for the chefs to stir-fry.

BAMBOO HOUSE 4036 Poplar Level Rd., 451-3113.

An old-timer among local Chinese restaurants, this Southeastern Louisville spot may not of fer the trendiest Asian fare, but it’s a reliable source for the familiar Cantonese-American standards. $ ✿ CHINA 1 123 Breckinridge Ln., 897-6511. $ ✿ CHINA BUFFET 706 E. Hwy . 131, Clarksville, IN, 288-8989. Chinese buffets are ubiquitous, but this one is squar ely in the upper range. Regularly refreshed steam tables, attentively fried rice, and properly spicy General Tso’s Chicken raise it above the run-of-the-mill places typical of the genre. $ ✿ CHINA CASTLE 7420 Third Street Rd., 367-4272. $ ✿ CHINA GARDEN 7309 Pr eston Hwy., 968-4672. A busy r estaurant with the double pleasur e of Chinese and American menu items. $ ✿ CHINA INN 1925 S. Fourth St., 636-2020. It’s not the posh, private Faculty Club, but this little Asian spot may be one of the most popular eateries around the University of Louisville’ s Belknap Campus. $ ✿ CHINA KING 3830 Ruckriegel Pkwy., 240-0500. $ ✿

BLUE NILE ETHIOPIAN 558 S. Fifth St., 625-7400.

Missing the Ethiopian dishes at the now-closed Café Kilimanjaro? Weep no more — Ethiopian returns to downtown with this welcoming lunch spot, with a choice of buffet or menu service. $ h ✿ CHEZ SENEBA AFRICAN REST AURANT 4218 Bishop Ln., 473-8959. Offering another interesting ethnic cuisine to Louisville’ s international dining scene, with gener ous portions of spicy Senegalese cuisine fr om W est Africa. This friendly place recently moved fr om tiny quar ters to this mor e inviting suburban location. $ QUEEN OF SHEBA ETHIOPIAN 2804 Taylorsville Rd., 459-6301. This authentic Ethiopian restaurant offers a wide selection of intriguing Ethiopian dishes, including a variety of vegetarian selections as well as the traditional beef and chicken specialities. Ethiopian fare is made for sharing and eating with the fingers, but they’ll gladly make forks available for the finicky. $ ✿

CHINA TASTE 135 Quartermaster Ct.., Jef fersonville, IN, 284-5580. $ ✿ CHINESE CHEF 2619 S. Fourth St., 634-0979. $ ✿ CHINESE EXPRESS 3228 Crums Ln., 448-1360. $ ✿ CHONG GARDEN 10341 Dixie Hwy., 935-1628. $ ✿ CHOPSTICKS 416 E. Broadway, 589-9145. $ ✿ CHOPSTICKS HOUSE 2112 W. Broadway, 772-3231. $ ✿ CHUNG KING CHINESE AMERICAN REST AURANT 110 E. Market St., 584-8880. $ ✿ CRYSTAL CHINESE 3901 W. Market St., 776-9702. $ ✿ DOUBLE DRAGON 1255 Goss A ve., 635-5656. A standout among fast-food shopping-center Chinese eateries, Double Dragon hits on all cylinders, turning out consistently well-pr epared and flavorful fare. $ ✿ DOUBLE DRAGON II 12480 LaGrange Rd., 241-7766, 9901 LaGrange Rd., 326-0099, 6832 Bar dstown Rd., 231-3973, 3179 S. Second St., 367-6668. $ ✿ DOUBLE DRAGON 8 231 S. Fifth St., 587-8686. $ ✿ DOUBLE DRAGON 9 9501 Taylorsville Rd., 267-5353. $ ✿

#1 ASIAN BUFFET 1250 Bardstown Rd., 451-6033.

Not just another in the her d of all-you-can-eat Chinese buf fets, this 350 seat eater y is the first between-the-coasts outpost of the original #1 buffet in NYC. $$ ✿

DOUBLE DRAGON BUFFET 233 Whittington Pkwy., 339-8897. A sizable buf fet in a chic East End shopping strip, offers a good range of Chinese treats on its all-you-can-eat buf fet. The far e seems prepared with attention and care. $ ✿

8 CHINA BUFFET 1850 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 4933884. $ ✿

DYNASTY BUFFET 2400 Lime Kiln Ln., 339-8868.

The continuing pr oliferation of look alike, taste alike, all-you-can-eat Chinese buffets never fails to amaze me. But I’m happy to r eport that Dynasty Buffet ranks well above the median. $$ ✿

A TASTE OF CHINA 1167 S. Fourth St., 585-5582. $ ✿ ASIAN BUFFET 3813 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 945-1888, 1305 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 285-8888, 3646 Mall Rd., 479-9989. Competent cookery and car eful management that ensur es buffet of ferings stay fr esh and hot makes these buffets a good choice among the growing crowd of all-you-can-eat Asian spots. $ p ✿ AUGUST MOON 2269 Lexington Rd., 456-6569.

August Moon’ s secr et ingr edient is the culinar y oversight of Chef Peng Looi, better known as the force behind Asiatique. Housed in a soaring, open space with a Zen master’s style. Consistent commitment in the kitchen and fr om the staf f makes it a RED = ADVERTISER

EASTERN HOUSE 5372 Dixie Hwy., 568-2688. $ ✿ EGGROLL MACHINE 1216 Bar dstown Rd., 4591259. A Highlands staple for good r eason. This portion of Café Mimosa does a brisk business. The Sesame Chicken is one of our favorites. $$ p ✿ EMPEROR OF CHINA 2210 Holiday Manor Shopping Center, 426-1717. One of Louisville’ s fanciest and most noteworthy Chinese restaurants, the Emper or’s quar ters ar e stylishly str ewn acr oss multiple levels of a former suburban movie theater.

Outstanding. $$ p ✿

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EMPRESS OF CHINA 2249 Hikes Ln., 451-2500.

Older sister to The Emperor of China, the Empress was one of Louisville’s first serious, authentic upscale Cantonese restaurants, and its fare still stands up to fancy spots in New York’s Chinatown. $$ p ✿ FIRST WOK 3967 Seventh St. Rd., 448-0588. $ ✿ GOLDEN BUDDHA 8000 Preston Hwy., 968-7700. $ ✿ GOLDEN PALACE BUFFET 161 Outer Loop, 3682868. $ ✿ GOLDEN ST AR CHINESE REST AURANT 3681833, 3458 Taylor Blvd. $ ✿ GOLDEN WALL 3201 Fern Valley Rd., 968-9717. $ ✿ GREAT WALL 2206 Brownsboro Rd., 891-8881. This Clifton r estaurant ranks high up in the fast-food Chinese pack. Offering steaming-hot, competently prepared and flavorful dishes. $ ✿ GREAT WOK 2502 Pr eston Hwy ., 634-1918. Just about ever y shopping center in town has a fastfood Chinese spot, but this one stands out, generating a buzz of wor d-of-mouth publicity about its well-crafted Chinese dishes at a bar gainbasement price. $ ✿ HAPPY DRAGON 2600 W . Br oadway, 778-2573.

Catering to of fice and r esidential customers, this Chinese restaurant has ser ved the W est Broadway community for many years. $ f ✿ HONG KONG CHINESE REST AURANT 345 New Albany Plaza, New Albany, IN., 945-1818. $ ✿ HONG KONG F AST FOOD 5312 S. Thir d St., 3678828. One of the many international eateries in Iroquois Manor, this fast-food Chinese spot of fers Cantonese standar ds hot and fast and inexpensively. Check the daily specials for an occasional intriguing item. $ ✿ HUNAN WOK 231-0393, 6445 Bardstown Rd. $ ✿ JADE GARDEN BUFFET 1971 Brownsboro Rd., 8930822. Y et another lar ge, shiny , all-you-can-eat Chinese buffet featuring mostly Chinese dishes with a few American-style items and sushi r olls. $ ✿ JADE PALACE 1201 Herr Ln., 425-9878. When I’ve got a hankering for brunch, I choose Chinese. Jade Palace is a decent place for Chinese food at any time, but don’ t miss it at mid-day Friday thr ough Monday, when it of fers the metr o ar ea’s only dim sum (Chinese brunch) menu. $$ p ✿ JASMINE 13823 English V illa Dr ., 244-8896. A charming Asian eater y, wher e you can enjoy familiar Chinese-American plates or indulge your more adventur ous side with a selection of mor e unusual authentic dishes fr om the “Chinese Menu,” available on request. $ f ✿ JUMBO BUFFET 2731 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy ., 4950028. Housed in a good-looking dining room, high on Chinatown-style glitz and glitter, Jumbo offers a standard all-you-can-eat Chinese buf fet, with a larger-than-average selection of American dishes for those who want something less exotic. $$ ✿ KING WOK 291 N. Hubbar ds Ln., 899-7188.

Another of the city’ s many tiny shopping-center fast-food Chinese eateries, King W ok offers all the familiar standards plus a small lunch buf fet. $ ✿ LIANG’S CAFÉ 3571 Springhurst Blvd., 425-0188.

Genial host Roland W ong keeps Liang’s in the top tier of local Chinese dining rooms with both authentic Chinese cuisine and fine Chinese-American dishes in this airy, stylish dining room. $ ✿

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friendly ser vice that makes you feel like you’r visiting a Chinese family at their home. $$ ✿

e

NEW CHINA 231 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 254-9299. $ ✿ ONION REST AURANT TEA HOUSE 4211 Charlestown Rd., New Albany , IN, 981-0188.

Masterful Chinese and Japanese cuisine (including magnificent hotpots, donburi dishes, and woodenbucket steamed rice) set this airy r estaurant apart from the horde of other Asian spots. $$ ✿ ORCHID ASIAN CAFÉ 400 W. Main St., New Albany, IN, 948-8887. Pr oprietor Danny T ran is a r ecent arrival fr om Ohio, wher e his family owns and operates several restaurants. His New Albany entry offers Chinese and a broader range of Asian fare in an upscale atmosphere that places it well above the chopsticks-house category. $ f ✿ ORIENTAL EXPRESS 12567 Shelbyville Rd., 2449838. $ ✿ ORIENTAL HOUSE 4302 Shelbyville Rd., 897-1017.

One of the oldest continuously operated Chinese restaurants in Louisville, this St. Matthews landmark moves up a notch under new owners, featuring both traditional Chinese-American and now, authentic Cantonese. $ p ✿ ORIENTAL ST AR 4212 Bishop Ln., 452-9898. A long-time ar ea favorite in this heavy traf fic lunch area. This establishment is quite good with Lo Mein Noodles, and Sweet and Sour Chicken. $ ✿ PANDA CHINESE REST AURANT 9543 U.S. 42., 228-6400. $ ✿ QUICK WOK 801 W. Broadway, 584-6519. $ ✿ RED PEPPER CHINESE CUISINE 2901 Brownsboro Rd., 891-8868. W ith a skilled Sichuanese chef who’s owned a r estaurant in Chicago’s Chinatown and cooked at Chinese embassies ar ound the world, Red Pepper starts out in the top tier of local Chinese r estaurants. Chinese-American standar ds are well done, but we r ecommend the authentic Chinese menu, which is available in English $ ✿ RED SUN CHINESE RESTAURANT 499-7788, 3437 Breckinridge Ln. $ ✿ ROYAL GARDEN 5717 Pr eston Hwy ., 969-3788, 6801 Dixie Hwy., 937-0428, 5316 Bar dstown Rd., 491-8228. $ ✿ SESAME CHINESE RESTAURANT 9409 Shelbyville Rd., 339-7000. Not just another shopping-center Chinese r estaurant, this East End eatery has provided some of the best fine-dining Chinese meals I’ve enjoyed in Louisville. $$ p ✿ SHAH’S MONGOLIAN GRILL Stony Brook Shopping Center, 493-0234, 423 E. W arnock St., 409-5029.

Thirteenth Century Mongol warriors used to turn their steel shields to use as frying pans over the campfire, using their swor ds as spoons. Shah’ s carries their spirit for ward. This all-you-can-eat buffet is fun, and the food is fine. $$ p ✿ SHANGHAI RESTAURANT 526 S. Fifth St. 568-8833. $✿ SICHUAN GARDEN 9850 Linn Station Rd., 4266767. One of my favorite Chinese r estaurants in Louisville and another that has stood the test of time, Sichuan Gar den of fers high-end Chinatown style and well-made dishes, plus a few Thai specialties to spice up the bill of far e. $ ✿

LING LING 10476 Shelbyville Rd., 245-2100. Modern and efficient in its East End shopping center location, Ling Ling is a cut above fast-food Chinese; better yet, it adds a few V ietnamese dishes to the bill of fare. $$ ✿

TEA ST ATION CHINESE BISTRO 9422 Nor ton Commons Blvd., 423-1202. Not just another fastfood chopsticks house, this comfor table, sit-down Chinese r estaurant owned and operated by Paul and Amy Yang joins the small but gr owing cluster of businesses in the Nor ton Commons village center. $$ f ✿

LIU’S GARDEN 11517 Shelbyville Rd., 244-9898.

Small but charming, with white tablecloths and soft Chinese music, family-run Liu’s gains our approval with fr esh, competent cooker y and cour teous,

WOK EXPRESS 234 W. Br oadway, 583-8988. This corner spot has housed a variety of restaurants over the years. The latest tenant isn’t the fanciest, but it might be one of the most af fordable. $ ✿

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WONTON EXPRESS 3000 Hikes Ln., 452-2646.

Traditional Chinese far e. Family-owned-andoperated, this popular neighbor hood establishment has enjoyed a steady patronage for seventeen years. $ ✿ YANG KEE NOODLE 7900 Shelbyville Rd. (Oxmoor Center), 426-0800. This locally owned and operated Oxmoor spot is color ful and stylish. It offers an intriguing array of appealing noodle and rice dishes fr om all over Asia with fast-food efficiency and prices happily matched by sit-down restaurant quality and style. $ f ✿ YEN CHING 1818 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-3581. $ ✿ YOU-CARRYOUT-A 1551 E. Tenth St., Jeffersonville, IN, 288-8313, 827 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville, IN, 282-8881, 3308 Plaza Dr., 944-9866. $ ✿ YUMMY CHINESE REST AURANT 968-7450, 8625 Preston Hwy. $ ✿

SARI SARI FILIPINO CUISINE 2339 Frankfort Ave., 894-0585. The city’ s sole Filipino eater y of fers a tasty introduction to the Malayo-Polynesian fare of this Southeast Asian island nation. Filipino dishes are af fordable during the dinner hour and downright cheap on the lunch buf fet. $

ASAHI JAP ANESE 3701 Lexington Rd., 895-1130.

This small r oom in a new St. Matthews building formerly housed Sahara Grill, a fine but short-lived Persian restaurant. Now it gives way to this neighborhood sushi spot wher e awar d-winning Chef Yong Bong Tak, formerly of Osaka, works his magic at the sushi bar. $ ✿ BEIJING GRILL AND SUSHI BAR Sellersburg IN, 248-0900. $ ✿

8007 Hwy . 311,

BENDOYA SUSHI BAR 217 S. Fifth St., 581-0700.

Adding international flair to its downtown neighborhood, Bendoya Sushi Bar is a genuine, serious sushi bar in a stor efront just across the street from the courthouse. $ ✿ CAVIAR JAPANESE RESTAURANT 416 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 625-3090. (See listing under Upscale Casual) FUJI JAP ANESE STEAKHOUSE 3576 Springhurst Blvd., 339-1978, 12905 Shelbyville Rd., 253-0036.

Part of the fun of sitting at the sushi bar is that you get to watch the chef at work. Put in your or der, then sit back and sip your tea while the ar tist creates edible delights. This suburban sushi bar does the job well. $$ p ✿ HANABI JAP ANESE REST AURANT 6027 T imber Ridge Dr., 228-8244. A hospitable welcome, casual setting, and well-fashioned sushi and Japanese specialties have made this family run Prospect spot a worthy alternative in the East End dining scene. $$ p ✿ HIKO A MON SUSHI BAR 1115 Herr Ln., 365-1651.

Japanese-trained sushi chef Norihiko Nakanashi has earned quite a local following at Shogun. Now he brings his sushi knives to this sushi bar and Japanese grill in W estport V illage. In addition to fine dining at the bar or in traditional Japanese dining rooms, Hiko A Mon of fers sushi-grade fish from a small fish market. $$$ p ✿ ICHIBAN SAMURAI 1510 Lake Shor e Ct., 412-3339.

This large Japanese-farmhouse building, originally a Benihana, offers similar delights, with the traditional slice-and-dice food show and good sushi. Best deal, while the of fer lasts: All-you-can-eat sushi nightly until the karaoke starts at 9 p.m. $$$ p ✿ KANSAI JAP ANESE STEAKHOUSE 1370 V eterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 218-9238. T raditional Japanese dishes and sushi ar e available her e, but www.foodanddine.com Fall 2008 75

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like most Japanese Steakhouses, choose the grill tables with their slice-and-dice Japanese chef show for maximum entertainment. $$$ p ✿ KOBE STEAK HOUSE 301 S. Indiana Ave., Jeffersonville IN, 280-8500. Southern Indiana’ s first serious Japanese r estaurant is drawing cr owds with its exceptional sushi bar, with skilled and friendly chefs who can be relied on to fashion fresh and tasty bites that are just about certain to please. $$$ p ✿ MAIDO ESSENTIAL JAPANESE 1758 Frankfort Ave., 894-8775. Not just another sushi bar , cool and stylish Maido is Louisville’s first and only “izakaya”style r estaurant in the style of Kansai, the r egion surrounding Japan’s second city , Osaka. It’ s also a sake bar, pouring a good variety of ar tisanal rice wine. $$ f ✿ OISHII SUSHI 2245 Bardstown Rd., 618-2829. This small, attractive Highlands spot, operated by sushi chefs who’ve put in time at the popular Sappor o, has been attracting raves fr om neighborhood sushi lovers. $$ ✿ OSAKA SUSHI BAR 2039 Frankfort Ave., 894-9501.

This bright and cheer y Japanese r estaurant and sushi bar is named after Japan’s second largest city.

Local sushi aficionados say it’s lost a step since the departure of founding chef James Lae, but it’s still a decent neighborhood Japanese spot. $$ ✿ RAW SUSHI LOUNGE 520 S. Four th St., 585-5880.

Raw makes good use of hip quar ters in a glitzy renovation of the old Marmaduke Building (next to the Seelbach). Diners may choose fr om a br oad selection of competent sushi and Japanese fair, plus fine international seafood dishes at dinner , in a sophisticated lounge atmosphere. $$$ p f e h ✿ SAKE BLUE JAP ANESE BISTRO 9326 Cedar Center Way, 708-1500. This new addition to the Fern Creek dining scene o ffers the “full-ser vice” Japanese r estaurant experience of hibachi grill tables and sushi bar , along with a traditional dining room and cocktail bar. $$ p h ✿ SAKURA BLUE 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 897-3600.

Located in elegant, upscale quar ters in a St. Matthews shopping center , Sakura Blue — dir ect descendant of the old, popular Bonsai — ranks among the city’s top sushi bars. $$ ✿ SAPPORO JAPANESE GRILL & SUSHI 1706 Bardstown Rd., 479-5550. Trendy, even glitzy, with hard-edged industrial decor — and most impor tant, excellent food — Sappor o ranks in my ratings as the city’ s No. 1 spot for sushi and Japanese far e. $$$ p h ✿ SHOGUN JAPANESE STEAK HOUSE 9026 Taylorsville Rd., 499-5700, 4110 Hampton Lake W ay, 3940123. Shogun’s decor is attractive, and quality food and ser vice make it a pleasant dining destination.

It’s unthr eatening enough to appeal to those who find exotic cuisine “challenging,” but good enough to satisfy just about anyone who craves a Japanese dinner or a bite of sushi. $$$ p ✿ TOKYO JAPANESE RESTAURANT 2415C Lime Kiln Ln., 339-7171. It’ s appealing, pleasant in atmosphere and friendly in ser vice, and most impor tant, this East End sushi bar ser ves excellent Japanese treats, pr epared with car e and flair fr om highquality, impeccably fresh ingredients. $$ ✿

KOREANA II 5009 Preston Hwy., 968-9686. One of the city’ s few r estaurants devoted entir ely to authentic Kor ean far e, Kor eana is wor th a special trip for this ethnic cuisine that offers a hearty, spicy alternative to the more familiar Chinese. $$ ✿ LEE’S KOREAN REST AURANT 1941 Bishop Ln., 456-9714. This little spot has been a secr et since the ’70s, and it just keeps on going. Walk into what looks like a diner in an of fice building, but push past the counter to the back r oom, wher e you’ll 76 Fall 2008 www.foodanddine.com

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find generous heaps of really authentic Korean food for next to nothing. $$ ✿ PINK DOOR NOODLES & TEA LOUNGE 2222 Dundee Rd., 295-2441. This popular Highlands spot boasts an edgy, high-tech Japanese style, complete with a live video wall. Look for lighter Asian far e, noodle dishes and sushi, along with a wide variety of teas, sakes and techno-Japanese cocktails. $ p ✿

MAI’S THAI REST AURANT 1411 E. T enth St., Jeffersonville, IN, 282-0198. With a broad range of well-prepared and authentic Thai dishes, Mai’ s is the eater y to beat among the metr o ar ea’s Thai restaurants. For both authenticity and quality , it’s right up there with the top Thai places I’ve enjoyed in New York, San Francisco and Seattle. $ ✿ SALA THAI 526 W. Main St., 493-3944. Having closed its doors at a lar ger location in Stony Br ook where it was arguably the city’s most upscale Thai eater y, Sala Thai is r esurrected in smaller , mor e casual style in the downtown home of the old City W ok. $$ p f ✿ SIMPLY THAI 318 W allace A ve., 899-9670. Owner Mahn Saing is Burmese; his wife, a classically trained chef, is Thai. They’ve beautifully made over this little St. Matthews spot, of fering a small menu of traditional Thai dishes, well-made sushi and a few upscale Thai-style “fusion” dinner items. $ f ✿ THAI CAFÉ 2226 Holiday Manor, 425-4815. You’ll find this small café tucked into a corner of the “Holiday Manor Walk.” Owner Chavantee Snow and her family offer a small but well-pr epared selection of authentic Thai dishes at very reasonable prices. $ ✿ THAI ORCHIDS 9114 Taylorsville Rd. (Stony Br ook Shopping Center), 493-4073. Sala Thai, regarded as one of the city’ s most upscale Thai r estaurants, moved r ecently, but Jef fersontown-area lovers of this Southeast Asian cuisine will find that its replacement, although under new management, is very similar to the old. $$ ✿ THAI SIAM 3002 Bardstown Rd., 458-6871. Louisville’s first Thai r estaurant, this Gar diner Lane spot has built a loyal audience over the years, per haps responding to its r egular visitors’ pr eferences with food that’s a bit on the tame side for Thai. $$ ✿ THAI SMILE 5 5800 Preston Hwy., 961-9018. The “5” represents the number of r estaurants in this Frankfort-based mini-chain, which has r estaurants in Kentucky, Tennessee and Indiana. The “Smile” represents my r eaction to its simple but ver y wellprepared Thai far e. Don’ t ask for the five-chilepepper heat unless you really mean it! $ ✿ THAI TASTE 1977 Br ownsboro Rd., 897-7682. The owner-host of this friendly, casual spot in Cr escent Hill had a r estaurant in Bangkok befor e moving to Louisville, and his experience shows. The warmth of his welcome — and the quality of the food — make Thai Taste special. $ ✿

ANNIE CAFÉ 308 W. W oodlawn, 363-4847. Annie Café ranks not just as one of my favorite Vietnamese r estaurants, but one the city’ s best of any variety, par ticularly when value and price ar e taken into account. Authentic V ietnamese food is made with care and served with pride. $ ✿ CAFÉ MIMOSA 1216 Bardstown Rd., 458-2233. Dating back to the ’80s as the city’s first serious restaurant in the French-Vietnamese tradition, its current management still offers a short selection of good Vietnamese food plus Chinese-American far e, as well as one of the city’s more interesting sushi bars. $ p ✿ CAFÉ THUY VAN 5600 National Turnpike, 366-6959.

A bit of f the beaten track, this South End spot is

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true, authentic V ietnamese. Friendly ser vice overcomes any language barrier , and prices ar e hard to beat. Don’ t miss the Banh Mi, traditional Vietnamese sandwiches. $ ✿ LA QUE 1019 Bar dstown Rd., 238-3981. Replacing the original Lemongrass in the Highlands (which continues to operate its suburban pr operties), La Que offers a similar blend of Vietnamese and other Asian cuisine. $ f h ✿ LEMONGRASS CAFÉ 11606 Shelbyville Rd., 2447110, 106 Fairfax Ave., 893-7757. Lemongrass Café offers an appealing blend of V ietnamese, Thai and Chinese fare in a simple setting that transcends an obviously low budget with style and grace. $ h ✿ PHO BINH MINH 6709 Strawberry Ln., 375-9249.

Tiny and lovably cozy , this six-table South End spot is true authentic V ietnamese, and so ar e the proprietors. There’s some language barrier, but the owners are so friendly, and the food so good, that it’s worth the ef fort if you love r eal Asian far e and inexpensive prices. $ ✿ VIETNAM KITCHEN 5339 Mitscher Ave., 363-5154.

This little South End stor efront is well wor th seeking out. The chef goes beyond the or dinary, preparing authentic V ietnamese dishes of unusual subtlety and flavor . I have yet to be disappointed with the quality of the food or ser vice. $ ✿ ZEN GARDEN 2240 Frankfor t A ve., 895-9114. A vegetarian restaurant must pass one simple test: at the end of the meal, I must not miss meat. Zen Garden passes this test with flying wok and chopsticks. $ f ✿

BEHAR CAFÉ 5600 National T urnpike, 368-5658.

This shopping-center stor efront has become a popular after -work gathering spot for the city’ s growing community of immigrants fr om Bosnia, for whom it’s a comfor table place to get a drink, a sausage, and feel at home. $ h ✿

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MOLLY MALONE’S 933 Baxter A ve., 473-1222. A carefully constructed r eplica of a modern urban Irish pub, Molly Malone’s is worthy addition to the city’s eating and drinking scene, as authentically Irish as the Wearin’ o’ the Green. $$ p f e h ✿

AMICI´ 316 Ormsby A ve., 637-3167. Restaurateurs Sharon and Scott Risinger host this inviting Italianstyle restaurant that brings a touch of T uscany to this attractive and historic Old Louisville building. $$ p f ✿

O’SHEA’S TRADITIONAL IRISH PUB 956 Baxter Ave., 589-7373. Celebrating its 50th anniversar y this year, O’Shea’s offers a steady schedule of music, an assor tment of beers and mainstr eam American pub grub, fr om the cheesy fries to the Reuben sandwich. $$ p f e h ✿

ANGELINA’S CAFÉ 1701 UPS Dr ., 326-5555. Y ou don’t have to be an Italian grandfather to play bocce, now that ther e ar e several venues ar ound town for this amiable game. The six-cour t suburban Gotcha Bocce, run by spor tscaster Bob Valvano, also houses this casual all-Italian eater y, with dishes based on Bob’s family recipes. $ ✿

RI RA IRISH PUB 427 S. Four th St. (Four th Str eet Live) 587-1825. Pr omising patr ons “an authentic Irish experience,” this gr owing chain is slated to open this year in a sizable 9,000-squar e-foot space in Fourth Street Live. Ri Ra (Gaelic for “celebration and good fun”) decorates its pubs with authentic furnishings from Ireland. $$$ p f e h ✿ SHENANIGAN’S IRISH GRILL 1611 Norris Pl., 4543919. Not just a neighborhood tavern (although it’s a fine neighbor hood tavern), Irish-accented Shenanigan’s goes an extra step with an estimable selection of memorable burgers. $ p f e h ✿

ADRIENNE’S ITALIAN RESTAURANT 129 W. Court Ave., Jef fersonville, IN, 282-2665. The owners of popular Adrienne’ s Baker y in Jef fersonville have recently opened this new sit-down dining spot with an Italian theme. $$ f ✿ AMERIGO 1871 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy ., 426-4040.

Chef Anthony Lorie, once a chef at RA W and later a co-owner of Bluegrass Bistr o in the Derby City Antique Mall, now takes the helm of this new Italian-style East End spot, first Louisville outpost of a small but gr owing Nashville-based chain that has won applause for quality. $$$ p f h ✿

BUCA DI BEPPO 2051 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy ., 4932426. Buca di Beppo’ s recipe has all the necessar y ingredients: huge portions of excellent food served with flair and the Buca scene is fun, a conscious parody of the exuberant decor of family ItalianAmerican restaurants of the 1950s. $$ p ✿ CARRABBA’S ITALIAN GRILL 617 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 412-2218. Not your or dinary suburban shopping-center franchise eatery . This place dramatically exceeds expectations. Fr om warmed bread dishes with quality olive oil to first-rate ItalianAmerican fare at reasonable prices. $$ p f ✿ COME BACK INN 909 Swan St., 627-1777, 415 Spring St., Jef fersonville IN, 285-1777. W ith both its branches located in urban neighbor hoods, Come Back Inn looks pr etty much like any other neighborhood saloon. But unlike most Louisville neighborhood saloons, this one houses a family Italian spot that wouldn’ t be out of place in Chicago or Brooklyn. $ p ✿ LA GALLO ROSSO BISTRO 1325 Bar dstown Rd., 473-0015. This small but attractive Highlands spot in the Shoppes on the Alley , formerly home to Butterfly Gar den (which moved nearby), is now back in business with a casual Italian and Continental theme. $$ f ✿

BOSAN-MAK 3825 Old Bar dstown Rd., 456-1919.

Friendly and exceptionally hospitable, familyowned BosnaMak celebrates the heritage of the owners and chefs in Bosnia and Macedonia in the Balkans and picks up a few culinary additions from their time in Germany. $ f ✿

ERIKA’S GERMAN REST AURANT 9301 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy. 499-8822. For a city with a str ong German heritage, Louisville is woefully shor t on authentic German r estaurants, but this genuinely Germanic eatery attracts hungr y cr owds to Hurstbourne. Take care not to miss its former fastfood quarters just off I-64 local access ramp. $$ GASTHAUS 4812 Brownsboro Center, 899-7177. The Greipel family comes straight fr om Bavaria to Eastern Louisville with Gasthaus, a destination for local lovers of Germanic far e. The setting has as authentic a feeling as the hear ty and delicious German dishes here. $$$

BRENDAN’S RESTAURANT & PUB 3921 Shelbyville Rd., 895-1212. Owner Tom O’Shea (also of Flanagan’s and O’Shea’s) has done a gr eat job of endowing this old St. Matthews saloon with an upscale feel, gourmet-style dining options and a ver y popular bar. $$ p e h ✿ IRISH ROVER 2319 Frankfort Ave., 899-3544, 117 E. Main St, LaGrange, 222-2286. A warm and welcoming pub with an authentic Irish accent, this is a delightful place for a tall glass of Guinness, a snack and a bit of Irish music. I r ecommend the fish and chips. $ p f ✿

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MARCELLO’S 2280 Bar dstown Rd., 456-5533. Chef Marcello, a member of the last management at the old Lentini’s befor e the Bar dstown Road landmark gave way to Jarfi’s Bistro this year, gives it another try in a smaller venue, the historic old ser vice station building that recently housed Diamante. $$ f ✿ MARTINI ITALIAN BISTRO 4021 Summit Plaza Dr., 394-9797. Plans for this popular suburban restaurant to break loose from its Ohio-based chain have fallen thr ough, but its successful formula remains, featuring hear ty and well-fashioned Italian entrées, pastas and pizzas. $$$ p f h ✿ MELILLO’S 829 E. Market St., 540-9975. Adjacent to the locally owned and operated Felice V ineyards on East Market, Melillo’ s of fers hear ty and delicious home-style Italian-American far e — and you can enjoy it with a glass of vino. $$ p f ✿ OLD SPAGHETTI FACTORY 235 W. Market St., 5811070. One of the original ventur es of this national firm. Bright and noisy , it of fers well-made if basic Italian family fare and dishes it out for surprisingly low prices. $$ p h ✿ THE OLIVE GARDEN 1320 Hurstbourne Pkwy ., 339-7190, 9730 V on Allmen Ct., 425-3607, 1230 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 218-8304. The top property of the Dar den chain, Olive Gar den now operates more than 500 properties and bills itself as the leading Italian r estaurant in the casual dining industry. Hear ty pastas of all shapes and sauces, appetizers and combo platters all carry the Italian theme. $$ p ✿ PESTO’S ITALIAN RESTAURANT 566 S. Fifth St., 584-0567. Of fices for blocks ar ound empty into this bustling Italian eatery for weekday lunches featuring hear ty platters of lasagna, zesty salads, red wine and iced tea. On Satur days, the kitchen switches over to a special Persian menu. $ ✿ PORCINI 2730 Frankfor t A ve., 894-8686. An expanded dining r oom and a stylish alfr esco patio facing busy Frankfor t Ave. make Por cini’s an even more popular destination, a place to see and be seen — and, while you’re at it, enjoy a drink and a decent Italian-American dinner. $$$ p ✿ PUCCINI’S SMILING TEETH 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 721-0170. A small but gr owing pizza chain based in Indianapolis opens its first Louisville property in the Shelbyville Road Plaza space that once housed Payless shoes. Thin pizza by the slice and other Italian-American dishes ar e served in an attractive setting that’s a cut above fast food. $$ ✿ RAY PARRELLA’S ITALIAN CUISINE 2311 Frankfort Ave., 899-5575. Old-fashioned Italian-American family fare is ser ved up with a warm and casual welcome at Ray Parr ella’s, the latest ventur e of a family that’s been pleasing locals for a generation. $$ f ✿ ROCKY’S IT ALIAN GRILL 715 W . Riverside Dr ., Jeffersonville IN, 282-3844. This longtime favorite earns its popularity with fine pizzas, a good selection of bottled beers and a select choice of Italian-American entrées and a view of the Louisville skyline that’s hard to beat. $ p f ✿ ROMANO’S MACARONI GRILL 401 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 423-9220. The Italian-style menu at this casual, Dallas-based family chain includes appetizers, salads, pastas, veal and desser ts. Chefs entertain while creating wood-fired pizzas. $$ p ✿ SAVINO’S ITALIAN FOOD 8533 Terry Rd., 933-1080. $✿ SPAGHETTI SHOP 4657 Outer Loop, 969-5545, 4510 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 944-5400.

Baked pasta dishes, subs, salads and appetizers ar e prepared while you wait. $ ✿ STEVE-O’S ITALIAN KITCHEN 4205 W. Hwy. 146, LaGrange, KY, 222-0300. Outstanding pizzas and fine family-style Italian-American dishes make this 78 Fall 2008 www.foodanddine.com

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casual eatery just of f I-71 at Buckner well wor th a special trip out from the city. $$ f ✿ TUSCANY ITALIAN RESTAURANT 165 Outer Loop, 363-0308. Adding an appetizing option to a stretch of the South End that hasn’ t been over -served by restaurants, this good-sized stor efront near New Cut Road boasts a Mexican chef who demonstrates an exper t’s hand with hear ty, r ed-sauced ItalianAmerican fare at a price that’s right. $$ h ✿ VOLARE 2300 Frankfor t Ave., 894-4446. The name evokes Sinatra, pasta with tomato sauce and candles in Chianti bottles, but stylish V olare kicks that image up a notch. W ith a combination of Italian standards and monthly menu updates, Chef Josh Moore and host Majid Ghavami have secur ed Volare as the city’s top spot for suave Italian dining. $$$ p f ✿

DE LA TORRE’S 1606 Bar dstown Rd., 456-4955.

Authentic Castilian far e includes a majestic paella. but the renewed focus at this Highlands standby is tapas, in such variety that you can have anything on the menu in small-plates form. $$$ ✿ LA BODEGA 1604 Bardstown Rd., 456-4955. Nextdoor to the excellent De La T orre’s Spanish restaurant, La Bodega of fers diners the city’ s most authentic Spanish-style tapas bar , featuring the small bites originally invented in the outdoor cafés of Jerez. $$ p f h ✿ MOJITO TAPAS RESTAURANT 2231 Holiday Manor Shopping Center , 425-0949. Gifted young chef Fernando Mar tinez (also of Havana Rumba) hits the culinary jackpot with this East End hot spot.

His international array of Spanish inspir ed small plates (“tapas”), imposing paella and libations has won critical acclaim and made Mojito a local favorite. $ p f h ✿ PALERMO VIEJO 1359 Bar dstown Rd., 456-6461.

This eater y’s name may sound Italian, but is, in fact, Louisville’s only source of Argentinian cuisine.

Steaks seared on authentic parrillada charcoal grills are a primar y draw, but ther e’s excellent chicken, seafood and much more. $$ p f ✿

Southern Indian specialties ar e of f the menu, but watch for the standard range of Northern meat and vegetarian dishes. $$ p ✿ SHALIMAR INDIAN REST AURANT 1820 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 493-8899. Modern and sleek in appearance, modest in price, this r estaurant has become the patriar ch of local Indian r estaurants.

With a substantial lunch buf fet and a full range of dinner items, it has built a loyal clientele. $$ p ✿ SITAR INDIAN CUISINE 1702 Bardstown Rd., 4738889. Named after the Indian stringed musical instrument that Ravi Shankar made famous, Sitar features a full Indian menu and buf fet. It’s the first Louisville property for a tiny new chain with four places in Tennessee and one in Alabama. $$ ✿

AL W ATAN 3713 Klondike Ln., 454-4406. Classic Arabic dishes home-cooked by friendly people in a cozy environment. That’s the r ecipe that makes Al Watan a destination for lovers of fine Middle Eastern fare. $ h ✿ CAFÉ 360 1582 Bardstown Rd., 473-8694. The latest in a long series of eateries in this pleasant Highland’s building offers an eclectic and international menu, with Southern fried catfish and Indian lamb bir yani in immediate juxtaposition. You can get it all, dinerstyle, just about 24/7. $ p f h ✿ CASPIAN GRILL PERSIAN BISTRO 1416 Bardstown Rd., 365-3900. Joining the growing ranks of Louisville’s Persian restaurants, this small Highlands dining room is gaining good wor d-of-mouth for well-pr epared food and cordial service. $ ✿ THE F ALAFEL HOUSE 1001 Bar dstown Rd., 4544407. This small Highlands spot is strategically situated to of fer quick and af fordable sustenance along the Bar dstown-Baxter enter tainment strip.

Look for the usual Middle Eastern far e in a casual, quick-service setting. $$ f h ✿ GRAPE LEAF 2217 Frankfor t A ve., 897-1774.

Relatively r ecent r enovations and an expanded menu have elevated the Grape Leaf to destination status, placing it well above the generic Middle Eastern eater y niche. Prices remain af fordable, while the food and mood now justify a special trip. $$ f ✿

BOMBAY GRILL 216 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy ., 4258892. W ith its br oad array of Indian r egional specialties including the requisite lunch buffet, this newish spot in The Forum on Hurstbourne is winning praise for its ar omatic flavors and bountiful portions. $$ ✿

OCEANSIDE RESTAURANT 3707 Klondike Ln., 4543737. This Hikes Point spot, run by a friendly Moroccan couple, offers a variety of fish and seafood dishes (plus chicken wings and other munchies), with a Middle Eastern accent. A couple of Moroccan dinner items are available in the $10 range. $

DAKSHIN INDIAN RESTAURANT 4742 Bardstown Rd., 491-7412. Owned and operated by the same family that brings us Kashmir Restaurant and Bombay Gr ocery in the Highlands, this addition brings aromatic and spicy Southern Indian far e to the Buechel-Fern Cr eek neighbor hood in the Eastland Shopping Center. $$ ✿

PITA DELIGHTS 1616 Grinstead Dr., 569-1122. This Near Eastern eater y in the Highlands of fers a splendid mix of gyr os, felafel and other pita-based goodies. $ f ✿

INDIA PALACE 9424 Shelbyville Rd., 394-0490, 408 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy ., Clarksville, IN, 258-000.

This longtime local Indian r estaurant, now with two locations, is a r egular contender for the city’ s top Indian spot. The expansive lunch buffet is well handled and a particularly good value. $ f ✿ KASHMIR INDIAN RESTAURANT 1285 Bardstown Rd., 473-8765. One of the city’ s most popular Indian restaurants, Kashmir is casual, neither posh nor expensive, and it pr oduces an extensive menu of seemingly authentic Indian fare. $$ f ✿ SAGE INDIAN REST AURANT 4123 Oechsli A ve., 896-0025. The short-lived Royal India, an outpost of Lexington’s Kashmir, closed its doors, but fine, aromatic Indian food r emains available under a new name and management. W e’re told that the RED = ADVERTISER

PITA HUT 1613 Bardstown Rd., 409-8484. The latest incarnation of the former Pita Pantry and Aladdin’s Café is the Pita Hut brings back its MediterraneanMiddle Eastern favorites, with the addition of a few “American” sandwiches — on fr esh pita, of course. $ ✿ ROAD TO MOROCCO 308 W. Chestnut St., 376-5855.

You can browse Moroccan arts and crafts and pick up a bottle of Mor occan wine at this little shop in the renovated Henry Clay building downtown, and stay for a light lunch that features Moroccan dishes and a broader range of Middle Eastern fare. $ f e ✿ SAFFRON’S 131 W . Market St., 584-7800. Owner Majid Ghavami has elevated this Persian (Iranian) restaurant far beyond a mer e ethnic eater y. Stylish decor, an intriguingly exotic menu, and a level of careful, pr ofessional ser vice wor thy of a whitetablecloth dining room. $$$ p ✿

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SAFIER MEDITERRANEAN DELI 641 S. Fourth St., 585-1125. You can get standar d American far e at this welcoming downtown quick-eats spot, but who’d do that when you can enjoy such appetizing Arabian delights as hummus, mutabal, falafels and the gyros-like (only better) shawarma beef-on-pita sandwich. $ f ✿ SHIRAZ MEDITERRANEAN GRILL 2011 Frankfort Ave., 891-8854, 2226 Holiday Manor , 426-9954, 153 S. English Station Rd., 244-1341, 201 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 426-3440. Of fering authentic Persian (Iranian) cooking, Shiraz quickly gr ew out of its tiny original location to occupy a bright and colorful stor efront in the new Clifton Lofts complex; now it is expanding into a local mini-chain. In all its locations, Shiraz shines with char -grilled kebabs, fine pitas and lavish br ead. $ ✿ ZAYTUN MEDITERRANEAN GRILL 2286 Bardstown Rd., 365-1788. Sharom’s Restaurant, a local spot on Outer Loop that the neighbors love and that “foodies” from the r est of town hold as a delicious little secr et, gains mor e local exposur e as a family member opens this new dining room in the Highlands.

Fine, fr eshly pr epared seafood is par t of the draw; excellent gyros kick it up a notch. $ f h ✿

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TASTE OF JAMAICA 2017 Br ownsboro Rd., 8961055. This stylish space in Clifton has a new ethnic flavor, thanks to co-owner W arren Glave, who has returned authentic Jamaican cuisine to a city too long starved for a taste of jerk chicken, curry goat and other such Caribbean goodies. $ h ✿

ERNESTO’S 10430 Shelbyville Rd., 244-8889, 6201 Dutchmans Ln., 893-9297, 4632A S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 671-5291. One of the first of the mor e authentic locally-owned Mexican restaurant groups, Ernesto’s r emains consistently r eliable. F rom the crispy home-fried chips to filling Mexican main courses and tasty desserts, it’s a worthy destination for good Mexican food and excellent value in an enjoyable atmosphere. $ p f e ✿

BAZO’S FRESH MEXICAN GRILL 4014 Dutchmans Ln., 899-9600. Now moved fr om the hear t of St. Matthews to Dupont Cir cle, Bazo’s Fresh Mexican Grill is an inexpensive, casual spot for fine fish tacos and simple fast-food Mexican far e. $ f ✿

FIESTA TIME MEXICAN GRILL 11320 Maple Brook Dr., 425-9144. $ p ✿

BUENOS DIAS CAFÉ 1703 Charlestown NA Pike, Jeffersonville, IN, 282-2233. $ ✿ CANCUN MEXICAN GRILL 9904 Linn Station Rd., 327-0890. $ e ✿ DON PABLOS MEXICAN KITCHEN 940 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 284-1071. Based in Atlanta, this Mexican-American chain, of fers full bar ser vice and a variety of dishes that range from sizzling fajitas to crisp salads tossed in a fajita shell. $$ p ✿ EL BURRITO DE ORO 1927 Gr eentree Blvd., Clarksville IN, 285-8820. $ ✿

FURLONG’S 9601 Shelbyville Rd., 327-9299. The many fans of this popular eater y who wer e distraught about its abrupt depar ture from Clifton a while back will be delighted to know that it’ s returning! Owner T ommy W alters has pur chased the lovely old house that was long home to Garrett’s and briefly Frank’ s Steakhouse, and promises to restore the popular Cajun-style spot in all its former glory. $$$ p f h ✿ J. GUMBO’S 2109 Frankfor t A ve., 896-4046; 947 Baxter Ave., 454-5507; 531 Lyndon Lane, 425-0096; Fourth Street Live, 589-9245; 6661 Dixie Hwy, 9958805; 3115 S. 2nd St., 363-8888; 4005 Summit Plaza Dr., 326-3070. Rapidly expanding in its bid to grow into a r egional chain, this excellent, af fordable string of Cajun eateries has changed its corporate name (from Gumbo A Go-Go) to avoid trademark conflicts with a similarly named chain. $ f JOE’S OK BAYOU 9874 Linn Station Rd., 426-1320, 4308 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 948-2080.

Fine, filling and authentic Louisiana-style far e is the draw at Joe’ s. A lengthy menu and bayou fishing-shack decor showcases authentic Cajun and Creole chow. $$ p SELENA’S A T WILLOW LAKE T AVERN 10609 LaGrange Rd., 445-5002. No longer a neighborhood saloon, the old Willow Lake Tavern is looking great these days as Alan Salmon and his family have transplanted Selena’ s, their longtime T ampa Bay eatery, into this much-r enovated East End venue.

Cajun, Creole and Italian dishes satisfy, and a large, comfortable bar doesn’t diminish the dining room’s family-friendly status. $$ p f h ✿

CACHITO MIO CUBAN CAFÉ 11316 Maple Br ook Rd., 326-3544. This East End spot is primarily a Cuban-accented coffee shop, but you can also get a fine Cuban sandwich, pastries and empanadas.

There’s also a small specialty gr ocery with Cuban and Brazilian goods. $ ✿ HAVANA RUMBA 4115 Oechsli A ve., 897-1959 A true taste of Old Havana, this bright, inviting Cuban restaurant is sibling to the equally popular Mojito T apas Restaurant. Bountiful ser vings of Cuban fare as good as I’ve enjoyed in Key W est or Miami, not to mention a hopping mojito bar , have earned Havana Rumba a place on my shor t list of local favorites. $ p f ✿

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EL CAPORAL 7319 Pr eston Hwy., 969-8243, 2209 Meadow Dr., 473-7840, 1901 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 515 E. Highway 131, Clarksville, IN, 282-7174.

Louisville’s gr owing Mexican-American community has foster ed a happy tr end: excellent, authentic Mexican food. El Caporal bridges the gap between the Latino and Anglo communities. $ p ✿ EL MUNDO 2345 Frankfor t A ve., 899-9930. This crowded, noisy little Crescent Hill storefront offers creative renditions of Mexican r egional specialties that make most diners want to yell “Olé!” The setting may lack the tr endy flair of Rick Bayless’ s Frontera Grill in Chicago, but the far e mines a similar vein and does so nearly as well. $ p f ✿ EL NOP AL (10 Locations) These locally owned restaurants have become a gr owing mini-chain, winning popularity on the basis of delicious, authentic and inexpensive Mexican far e in comfortable surroundings. $ p f ✿ EL NOPALITO 4028 Taylorsville Rd., 458-7278, 6300 Bardstown Rd., 231-4249, 2319 Br ownsboro Rd., 893-9880. This modest little eater y used to be a Taco Bell, but you’ll never find comidas like this at the Bell! Run by a family fr om Mexico, it’ s truly authentic and delicious. $ p f ✿ EL REY MEXICAN REST AURANT 2918 Hikes Ln., 454-6520. Although it’ s mor e Mexican-American than har d-core ethnic Mexican, El Rey earns my recommendation for tasty far e, cordial service in a pleasant fast-Mexican-food envir onment, and affordable prices. $ f ✿ EL RODEO MEXICAN REST AURANT 9070 Dixie Hwy., 995-8722. At El Rodeo, you’ll find a blend of Tex-Mex and other Latin American classics fr om salty margaritas to sweet sopapillas. $$ ✿ EL T ARASCO 5425 New Cut Rd., 368-5628, 110 Fairfax Ave., 895-8010, 9901 LaGrange Rd., 3269373, 9606 T aylorsville Rd., 297-8003. Add El Tarasco to the happy new genre of restaurants run

by Latinos and of fering authentic Mexican food and atmosphere, but that r each out to Anglos and make it easy to enjoy a South-of-the-Bor der culinary adventure without compromise. $ p ✿ EL TORO MEXICAN REST AURANT 1810 Hurstbourne Parkway, 491-7272. One of the top Mexican restaurants in the metr o, El Toro earns my r ecommendation for food, ser vice and environment. TexMex dishes are fine, but save room for the authentic Mexican seafood specialties. $ p f ✿

✿ = VEGETARIAN MENU ITEMS

= MENU AVAILABLE ON-LINE ONLY

LA BAMBA 1237 Bardstown Rd., 451-1418. La Bamba boasts of its “burritos as big as your head.” It may be Louisville’s most startling case of an eater y that is more than it appears to be, and that goes for both quality and quantity. Franchised and fast-foodish, it pleasantly surprises with genuine Mexican far e and Latino flair. $ h ✿ LA HERRADURA 615 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville, IN., 280-8650. Is it possible to enjoy truly a uthentic tacqueria cuisine when the management speaks mostly Spanish and you speak only English?

These friendly folks make it simple: a handy bilingual menu and a smiling staf f make you feel at home.$ ✿ LA MONARCA 6501 Shepherdsville Rd., 969-7938. $ ✿ LA PERLA DEL P ACIFICO 2840 Goose Cr eek Rd., 339-7670. You may want to bring a Spanish phrase book to this East End spot, wher e English is sometimes tentative. It’ s wor th the ef fort though, for excellent authentic Mexican seafood and fish dishes that go well beyond taqueria status. $$ ✿ LA PERLA DEL PACIFICO 4906 Preston Hwy., 9694445. Although it shar es a name — and an authentic Mexican bill of far e with plenty of seafood and fish — with an East End r estaurant, this South End spot is under separate ownership. $ ✿ LA ROSIT A T AQUERIA 1515 E. Market St., New Albany, IN, 944-3620, 113 Grant Line Road, 9487967, 1404 Blackiston Mill Rd., Clarksville, IN, 284-1362. One of my favorite authentic Mexican eateries in the metr o. The Market Str eet location, an historic old storefront, offers an extended menu of authentic Mexican far e; the Grant Line spot provides quick but fine taqueria far e. $ f ✿ LA TAPATIA RESTAURANT 8106 Preston Hwy., 9619153. One of the most authentic ethnic Mexican restaurants in Louisville, this little storefront offers memorable tacos and burritos and mor e. $ p ✿ LAS GORDITAS 4756 Bardstown Rd., 492-0112. As Louisville’s small but thriving Latino community grows, it’ s now possible to enjoy an authentic Mexico City-style dining experience at this taco and gor dita wagon that r olls up in the Eastland Shopping Center every Friday thr ough Monday evening. Family owners and chefs Pat and Esperanza Costas and Ofelia Or tiz are completely bilingual, and as friendly as can be. $ f ✿ LOLITA’S TACOS 4222 Poplar Level Rd., 459-4356.

This tiny place may look like a fast-food joint, but the food is about as authentic Mexican as you’ll find. Crisp or soft tacos and burritos the size of paper-towel r olls turn a meal her e into a r eal bargain. $ f ✿ LOS AZTECAS 530 W. Main St., 561-8535, 1107 Herr Ln., 426-3994, 9207 U.S. Hwy . 42, 228-2450.

Authentic Mexican cuisine has become a viable option in Louisville, thanks to a growing immigrant community. With fresh bar and blender of ferings, creative appetizers and comfor table seating, Los Aztecas is one of the best, with tasty Mexican dishes good enough to lur e us back again and again. $ p ✿ MAYAN CAFÉ 813 E. Market St., 566-0651. Chef Bruce Ucán earned four -star praise for years with his www.foodanddine.com Fall 2008 79

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creative take on Mayan (Y ucatan/Guatemala) cuisine at Mayan Gypsy. He carries on this winning tradition with similar inspiring cuisine her e. $$ ✿ MEXICAN FIEST A 5414 Bar dstown Rd., 762-0840, 4507 Bardstown Rd., 491-2922 $ ✿ MEXICANO 6911 Shepher dsville Rd., 962-8526.

Traditional Mexican fare from the Ramirez family. $ ✿ MEXICO TIPICO REST AURANT 6517 Dixie Hwy ., 933-9523, 12401 Shelbyville Rd., 253-9828. One of the r egion’s first authentic Mexican eateries, Mexico T ipico has built a loyal following in for good Mexican food and friendly , fully bilingual service; now it r eaches the East End with a brandnew property in the Middletown area. $ p e ✿ PUERTO V ALLARTA 4214 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 945-3588, 125 Quar termaster Ct., Jeffersonville, IN, 288-2022. $$ p ✿

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MOE’S SOUTHWEST GRILL 2001 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-1800, 1001 Br eckinridge Ln., 8936637, 12001 Shelbyville Rd., 245-6250, 1020 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, (812) 288-6637, 9310 Cedar Center W ay, 614-7722. The food may be mor e fast-food Mexican-American than authentic South-of-the-Border fare, but it is freshly made fr om quality ingr edients and comes in oversize portions, and that’s not a bad thing. $ ✿ ON THE BORDER 10601 Fischer Park Dr ., 4122461. A contemporary spin on traditional favorites offers a range of delights fr om the Ultimate Fajita to margaritas in a setting that emulates Old Mexico décor. $$ p f ✿

A.J.’S COFFEE & CREAM 9280 IN 64, Georgetown, IN, 951-1715. Despite the name, the specialty at this Southern Indiana r oadside spot is excellent, authentic Gr eek gyr os. Ther e’s no indoor dining, but plenty of picnic tables out fr ont; or you can do carryout. Another happy surprise: home made potato chips! $ f ✿ BEAN STREET CAFÉ 101 Lafollette Station, Floyds Knobs, IN, 923-1404. Bean Str eet intr oduced the Sunny Side to the joys of serious espr esso. Like all good coffee shops, they’re not just an eater y, but a cultural hangout. $ f CAFFE CLASSICO 2144 Frankfort Ave., 894-9689. $ COFFEE CROSSING 4212 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 981-2633. $

QDOBA MEXICAN GRILL 1500 Bar dstown Rd., 454-3380, 970 Breckinridge Ln., 721-8100, 4059 Summit Plaza Drive, 429-5151, 100 Daventr y Ln., 412-6202, 2730 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy ., 4939606, 3021 Poplar Level Rd., 637-5405, 4302 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 941-9654, 1321 Herr Ln., 618-3622. This chain operation extends from Louisville to Frankfor t and Lexington. Fastfoodish in style, Qdoba edges out its competitors on the basis of variety and inter esting salsas, plus sizable portions at a price you can af ford. $ f ✿

COFFEE POT CAFÉ 234 E. Gray St. (Medical Tower South), 584-5282 $ f ✿ DAY’S ESPRESSO AND COFFEE BAR 1420 Bardstown Rd., 456-1170. Dark and cozy , with an old-fashioned feeling, Day’ s has ever ything you would expect in a college-neighbor hood cof fee shop except a college near by. $ f DERBY CITY ESPRESSO 331 E. Market St., 4420523. A highlight in Louisville’ s r oster of serious coffee shops, Derby City featur es quality cof fee from several ar tisanal r oasters, plus fine tea, pastries, and now craft beers including a cof feebourbon flavored Stout. $ f e ✿

ROSTICERIA LUNA 5213B Preston Hwy., 962-8898.

Tiny and cluttered and very friendly, this little spot on Pr eston looks like another tacqueria but the specialty, Mexican-style roasted chicken, takes it to another level, juicy and succulent and r oasted golden br own. Chicken simply doesn’ t get any better than this. $ ✿

EXPRESSIONS OF YOU 1800A W. Muhammad Ali, 584-6886. $ f e ✿

SANTA FE GRILL 3000 S. Third St., 634-3722. This tiny eater y in a centur y-old r ed-brick South End storefront near Chur chill Downs never fails to satisfy with genuine Mexican tacos and other simple fare at prices that will leave you plenty of change for an exacta bet at the races. $ ✿

HEINE BROTHERS COFFEE 2714 Frankfor t A ve., 899-5551, 1295 Longest A ve., 456-5108, 2200 Bardstown Rd., 515-0380, 118 Chenoweth Ln., 893-5103, 1449 Bar dstown Rd., 454-5212, 4123 Shelbyville Rd., 894-9413. Spar tan, friendly and affordable, with good coffee r oasted on the premises and a shor t list of pastries, desserts and panini sandwiches, Heine Br os. has earned its outstanding local reputation. $ f e

SEÑOR IGUANA’S 1415 Br oadway St., Clarksville, IN, 280-8555, 3105 S. Second St., 368-0876. These two Mexican-American eateries — the Indiana venue is in the former Jerry’s — are known for their hearty, well-prepared Mexican food, and plenty of it, in a casually laid-back, comfor table spor ts-bar atmosphere. $ p f ✿

HIGHLAND COFFEE CO. 1140 Bardstown Rd., 4514545. Of fering two ways to get wir ed, this cozy neighborhood coffee shop also functions as one of Louisville’s top Internet cafés, wher e you can enjoy a hot cappuccino while you sur f the ’net in a WiFi hot spot. Funky Seattle-style ambience is a plus. $ f

SOL AZTECAS 2427 Bar dstown Road, 459-7776, 2350 Frankfort Ave., 895-3333. Saul Gar cia, who’s been associated with the local chain of Los Aztecas eateries and the shor t-lived Olmeca’ s, brings his brand of authentic Mexican far e to this Douglass Loop location and now to Clifton as well. Fans of Los Aztecas will find familiar food and mood in the same affordable price ranges. $ p h ✿

THE HOBKNOBB ROASTING CO. 3700 Paoli Pike, Floyds Knobs, IN, 923-1458. HobKnobb of fers fresh hot cof fee, espr esso drinks and fr esh baked pastries, cakes and cookies. $ f

RUBEN’S MEXICAN REST AURANT 1370 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN. 258-0417. $$ p ✿

TACO BUENO 2909 Hwy. 62 Jef fersonville IN, 2844073. This growing Texas-based chain, a competitor to Taco Bell, makes its first entry in the Louisville metro. Early r eports declar e it “better than the Bell.” $ f ✿ TACO TICO 5925 Terry Rd., 449-9888. Founded in Wichita in 1962, the same year as T aco Bell was born in Southern California, The T aco Tico chain has been gone fr om Louisville for mor e than a decade. Its happy r eturn has been drawing remarkable crowds out to this Southwest Louisville location. Us, too. $ ✿ TACQUERIA LA MEXICANA 6201 Pr eston Hwy ., 969-4449. The tacos are fine at this tiny storefront.

This is seriously ethnic stuf f, but Anglos ar e thoroughly welcome, the staff is bilingual, and they will happily pr ovide a menu with all the English translations written in. $ ✿ 80 Fall 2008 www.foodanddine.com

SALSARITA’S FRESH CANTINA 285 N. Hubbards Ln., 897-5323. Another entry in the hot “Fr esh Mexican” niche that featur es gigantic burritos made to order. Its colorful free-standing building houses a sit-in r estaurant and an inviting bar . $

pf✿ TUMBLEWEED SOUTHWEST GRILL (17 locations).

Tumbleweed started as a humble Mexican restaurant in New Albany and eventually came to dominate Louisville’s Tex-Mex niche with colossal margaritas, gigantic burritos and spicy chili con queso. Southwestern far e adds steaks and grilled far e to the familiar Tex-Mex with a formula that continues to draw diners in dr oves, but the ’Weed doesn’t stray far from its roots. $$ p f h ✿

JAVA BREWING COMP ANY 9561B U.S. Hwy . 42, 292-2710, 516 W . Main St., 568-6339, 135 S. English Station Rd., 489-5677, Four th Street Live, 561-2041, 2309 Frankfor t A ve., 894-8060. These casual spots boasts the ambience of a friendly oldfashioned book shop, with comfor table seating, a good selection of pastries, and quality cof fee from Seattle. $ JOE MUGGS 994 Br eckenridge Ln. (Books-aMillion), 894-8606, 4300 T owne Center Dr ., 4262252. $ f ✿ LA VIDA JA VA COFFEE CO. 1301 Herr Ln., 4129393. La V ida Java of fers espr esso drinks and pastries in this welcoming spot in the W estport Village shopping center. $ f OLD LOUISVILLE COFFEE HOUSE 1489 S. Fourth St., 635-6660. $ f ✿ PERKFECTION 359 Spring St., Jef fersonville, IN, 218-0611. $ e

RED = ADVERTISER

p = FULL BAR

f = OUTDOOR DINING

e = LIVE MUSIC

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RAY’S MONKEY HOUSE 1578 Bardstown Rd., 2124338. A ver y nice fit with its crunchy-granola Highlands neighborhood, this “pr ogressive cof fee shop and gathering place” is consciously childfriendly. Look for quality organic coffee roasted on the premises and vegetarian/vegan snacks. $ f e ✿

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hard to beat the quality breads and pastries offered here to eat in or carry out. $ ✿ BREADWORKS 3628 Br ownsboro Rd., 893-3200, 2420 Lime Kiln Ln., 326-0300, 2204 Dundee Rd., 452-1510, 11800 Shelbyville Rd., 254-2885. $ ✿

SISTER BEAN’S 4956 Manslick Rd., 364-0082. $ f ✿

CAKE FLOUR 909 E. Market St., 719-0172. This tiny, take-out-only spot is building a tr emendous buzz.

A lar ge selection of baked goods ar e made with organic flour and sugar . W e walked in, took a sample of brownie so spectacular that it made our knees buckle, and departed with a 10-pound bag of goodies. Cake Flour is to pastry as Louisville’s Blue Dog is to artisan bread: Top tier. $ f ✿

STARBUCKS COFFEE (35 locations) $ f

COCO’S BAKERY 6915 Southside Drive, 368-9280. $

SUNERGOS COFFEE & MICRO-ROASTER Y 2122 S. Preston St., 634-1243. Matthew Huested and Brian Miller used to r oast their own cof fee beans as a hobby. Their friends said they did it so well, they should turn pr o — the r esult is Suner gos Cof fee, another in the gr owing cadr e of espr esso bars in Louisville’s Germantown neighborhood. $ ✿

COCO’S CHOCOLATE CAFÉ 1759 Bar dstown Rd., 454-9810. Stylish, ar tisanal chocolates and baked goods made on the pr emises make this tiny Highlands spot a stylish place to stop and linger over for a dessert and a cup of cof fee. $ f

RIVER CITY COFFEE CAFÉ 2900 Brownsboro Rd., 618-2308. Don’t let the wor d “coffee” in the name fool you: This Cr escent Hill spot isn’ t just a cof fee shop. You can enjoy breakfast and lunch, including a good array of soups, salads, sandwiches and burgers. $ f ✿

TRAILSIDE CAFÉ 1321 Herr Ln., 423-1545 $

ADRIENNE & CO. BAKER Y CAFÉ 129 W. Cour t Ave., Jef fersonville, IN, 282-2665. If you need something for your sweet tooth and won’ t be denied, count yourself lucky if the craving strikes when you’re in the vicinity of this cozy Southern Indiana spot, with its good selection of homemade cakes and treats. $ f ✿ THE BAKER Y 3100 Bar dstown Rd., 452-1210. Not just a fine baker y but a place wher e bakers learn their business, this excellent establishment is par t of the culinar y program at Sullivan University . It’s

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THE CUPCAKE SHOPPE 3701 Lexington Rd., 8992970. You won’ t need thr ee guesses to name the specialty at this recent St. Matthews arrival, which has gained instant popularity for its wide variety of moist, tender cupcakes, always made in house. We recommend the key lime. Or the raspberry swirl.

Or the black and white. Oh, heck, try them all! $ ✿ THE DESSERT GALLERY 9305 New LaGrange Rd., 326-0700. Y ou’ll find just about anything you could want in the way of a desser t at this East End shopping center storefront, from cakes to brownies and cookies, and it’ s all hand-made fr om natural ingredients. $ DESSERTS BY HELEN 2210 Bar dstown Rd., 4517151, 9219 U.S. Hwy . 42, 228-8959. Helen Friedman has earned a loyal clientele since the 1970s with her elegant cakes, tempting pies and tortes and designer cookies. $

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HEITZMAN TRADITIONAL BAKERY & DELI 9426 Shelbyville Rd., 426-7736, 428 W. Market St., 5842437. The Heitzman family has been baking in the Louisville ar ea since your gr eat-aunt was a girl ordering dinner r olls. Made fr esh daily, the pies, cakes, cookies and specialty pastries pr ovide tasty nostalgia for all who visit. $ ✿ MY FAVORITE MUFFIN 9800 Shelbyville Rd., 4269645. All the muf fins are made right in the stor e, including such popular choices as the Cinnamon Crumb and the Turtle Muffin. $ THE PIE P ANTRY 9208 Dixie Hwy ., 384-0743.

Lunch is served at this Southwest Louisville eatery but the main focus — and the str ongest reason to drive out that way — is the dozens of varieties of homemade pies. Por tions ar e lar ge and the selection extensive. $ f ✿ PLEHN’S BAKERY 3940 Shelbyville Rd., 896-4438. A neighborhood institution, this baker y is as busy as it is nostalgic. Enjoy the hometown soda fountain with ice cr eam while you wait for your handdecorated birthday cake, breakfast rolls or colorful cookies to be boxed. $ ✿ SMALL TIMES BAKER Y 2956 Richland A ve., 4515499. An appetizing selection of br eads, cakes, cookies, even bagels is attracting hungr y supplicants fr om ar ound the r egion to this new bakery in Hikes Point. $ THE SWEET TOOTH 3110 Frankfor t A ve., 8954554. You’ll find an enticing collection of cakes, pies and other homemade goodies, plus excellent coffee and a selection of loose-leaf teas, in this cozy little spot. $ ✿

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MAP # DIRECTION PAGE # DOWNTOWN 84 1 Downtown Louisville NEAR EAST 85 2 Highlands – Crescent Hill EAST 86 3 St. Matthews SOUTH EAST 87 4 Hikes Point – Buechel EAST 88 5 Hurstbourne N. – Lyndon SOUTH EAST 89 6 Hurstbourne S. – Jeffersontown NORTH EAST 90 7 River Rd. – Brownsboro Rd. NORTH EAST 90 8 Westport Rd. FAR EAST 91 9 Middletown NORTH EAST 91 10 Prospect SOUTH EAST 91 11 Fern Creek SOUTH 92 12 Airport – Okolona SOUTH WEST 93 13 Shively – Pleasure Ridge Park INDIANA 94 14 New Albany – Floyds Knobs INDIANA 95 15 Clarksville INDIANA 95 16 Jeffersonville

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Bardstown Road 502.456.1702

Downtown

502-582-1995

Hurstbourne 502.426.0627

Prospect

502.292.2585

Jeffersonville 812.218.1995

(Sheraton Riverside Hotel) www.bristolbarandgrille.com www.foodanddine.com Fall 2008 83

MAP INDEX

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MAP • 1

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NEAR EAST > HIGHLANDS/CRESCENT HILL

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SOUTH EAST > HIKES POINT/BUECHEL

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EAST > HURSTBOURNE N./LYNDON

MAP • 5

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SOUTH EAST > HURSTBOURNE S./JEFFERSONTOWN

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MAP

7 > NORTH EAST > RIVER RD./BROWNSBORO RD. MAP

8 > NORTH EAST > WESTPORT ROAD

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11 > SOUTH EAST > FERN CREEK

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SOUTH > AIRPORT/OKALONA

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SOUTH WEST > SHIVELY/PLEASURE RIDGE PARK

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INDIANA > NEW ALBANY/FLOYDS KNOBS

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15 > INDIANA > CLARKSVILLE

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