Fall 2013 (Vol. 41)

FALL 2013 | AUG - SEP - OCT

The Global Issue

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profiles

louis le français|havana rumba express charim korean|dragon king’s daughter|charr’d

restaurant guide

plus

over 1,000 restaurant listings and maps to them all

buckhead’s beer menu app|$10 challenge tapas party|wine and food pairings

chef Q&A

NOW

anthony lamas of seviche

FREE (pictured) Escargot at Louis Le Français

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FALL 2013 PUBLISHER / EDITOR-IN-CHIEF JOHN CARLOS WHITE BUSINESS MANAGER PAUL M. SMITH ONLINE EDITOR STEVE COOMES COLUMNISTS ROGER A. BAYLOR CARLA CARLTON JAY FOREMAN SCOTT HARPER DAVID LANGE ASHLEE CLARK THOMPSON ENTERTAINMENT EDITORS-AT-LARGE TIM & LORI LAIRD CONTRIBUTING WRITERS CARLA CARLTON J. CHRISTIAN WALSH KATY YOCOM CHIEF PHOTOGRAPHER DAN DRY MAGAZINE DESIGN AND LAYOUT JOHN CARLOS WHITE GRAPHIC DESIGN KATHY KULWICKI STEFAN TAMBURRO COPY EDITOR KATHY KULWICKI SALES MANAGER GINA R. WOLFE ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES ANNETTE B. WHITE BART WHITEHOUSE IN FOND MEMORY OF OUR DEAR FRIEND DANIEL F. BOYLE

Food & Dining Magazine® is published quarterly by Louisville Dining Magazine, Inc. P.O. Box 665, Louisville KY 40201 The publisher and advertisers are not responsible or liable for misprints, typographical errors or misinformation. The opinions expressed herein are those of the writers and do not necessarily reflect the opinion of the publisher. +Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited. All rights reserved.

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www.foodanddine.com facebook.com/foodanddine follow us on Twitter @FDzine For Advertising information call (502) 509-EATS (3287) ON THE COVER: Escargot – in the shell, with parsley butter at Louis Le Français. (see story page 38) Photo by Dan Dry 4

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contents

FALL 2013 - VOLUME 41

RESTAURANT GUIDE

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DINING GUIDE Our comprehensive listing of over 1,000 area restaurants complete with reviews.

MAPS (RESTAURANT LOCATOR)

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Find all of the restaurants in our Dining Guide on these user-friendly maps.

FEATURES

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CHEF Q & A Chef Anthony Lamas of Seviche answers a few questions you’ve always wanted to ask. And some we should never have asked.

PROFILES

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PICK THREE Charim Korean Restaurant, Dragon King’s Daughter and Havana Rumba Express — profiles of a trio of unique ethnic restaurants.

URBAN BOURBON TRAIL: Charr’d Bourbon Kitchen

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A restaurant along Louisville’s Urban Bourbon Trail with Bourbon in their name, their food and their soul.

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LOUIS LE FRANÇAIS

Only 4,285 miles west of the French village of Miradoux, Chef Louis Retailleau recreates the recipes of his homeland in New Albany.

COLUMNS

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STARTERS

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COMINGS & GOINGS A summary of changes on the local restaurant scene, with openings, closings, moves and more.

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HUMOR

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Our humorist’s take on Fall lineup changes to help the Food Network regain its footing in the television landscape.

FOOD EASY ENTERTAINING: Tapas Party A simple, yet tasty, Spanish-style tapas party that is a breeze to host.

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$10 CHALLENGE: Sitar

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Sitar Indian Restaurant is the mature older sibling to the typical ‘quantity over quality’ lunch buffets you’re used to.

LIQUIDS CORK 101: Pairing wines with seasonal food Pairing wine and food can be complicated. Our expert simplifies the process.

HIP HOPS: An app for one’s ale At Buckhead Mountain Grill, technology reconstitutes the humble beer list.

COFFEE: The rise of the coffeehouse

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Despite what some might think, Louisville’s coffee drinkers are getting a bargain for their money. www.facebook.com/foodanddine Fall 2013

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starters comings & goings

comings goings & Well, it’s been a quiet summer in the River City — at least for the restaurant business. On the horizon, if the rain don’t fall and the creek don’t rise, two interesting restaurants, El Camino and Brasserie Provence, will open the doors soon. To date, since our last issue, a dozen other new restaurants of comparably modest scope are already serving, and eight new branches of established businesses have opened. Pit that against 19 standalone restaurants that have closed, and three other branches of multi-outlet businesses that have folded, and you have a wash — 22 newly opened (or about to) and 22 recently closed.

NEW TABLES El Camino has been perhaps the most anticipated opening, as the construction activity at the old Avalon site at 1314 Bardstown Rd. has geared up in recent weeks for a September deadline. The team behind The Silver Dollar has built up high hopes for their new Mexican street food / ’60s surfer / tiki bar concept. Silver Dollar executive chef Jonathan Schwartz will run the kitchen, using recipes inspired by his Mexican restaurateurmother-in-law’s cooking.

Brasserie Provence is also scheduled to open in September at 150 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., in the building that several years ago housed Tony Roma’s, a ribs and BBQ chain.

Guy Genoud, the Cannes-born hotel food and beverage director who oversaw operations at the Brown Hotel and the Marriott Downtown, is the owner-operator. His brasserie concept will offer mid-priced French lunch and dinner fare that emphasizes the cuisine of southern France.

Blooms Café, the little spot at the back of the Party Supplies and Gifts store at 307 Wallace Ave. closed, then reopened, then closed again. And now it has re-opened again, with Darnell “Superchef ” Ferguson, Sullivan grad and one of the culinary masterminds behind the pop-up breakfast concept that frequented the Seafood Connection site.

Downtown, Abyssinia, at 554 S. Fifth St., is offering Ethiopian stews, called wots, on spongy njera bread, which serves as the utensil used to eat the food. The menu offers a variety of meat dishes, as well as vegetarian entrées made with lentils, split peas and greens.

Four Sisters has opened in the Crescent Hill building that was the long-time home of Zen Tea House, 2246 Frankfort Ave.Three actual sisters run the shop (the fourth remains in Vietnam), dispensing Vietnamese crepes, bahn mi sandwiches, coffee and tea. On lower Brownsboro Road, another family enterprise, Shelia’s Southern Style Cuisine, at 2017, serves up home-style southern cooking.

Christopher’s, an upscale casual eatery, has opened where City Café once lured in diners coming from or going to the Baxter Avenue Theaters. The Italian-inspired menu, pleasantly re-done interior, and 10 percent discount with theater ticket stubs, is likely to lure them back to that location at 1250 Bardstown Rd. Owner Chris Harris had planned to open last May as Derby City Roadhouse, but a variety of last-minute considerations 6

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caused him to change his concept and the name.

Across the river, Café 27 has opened in a renovated building in downtown New Albany at 145 E. Main St. Their classic menu of appetizers, salads, sandwiches and entrées such as Hot Browns, shrimp scampi and steaks appeals to a range of tastes. Also new to the lineup of New Albany restaurant choices is Marco’s Pizza at 2011 Charlestown Road.

If you want some competitive fun with your beers, hop out to Amy Z’s, 813 Lyndon Ln., with some buddies and challenge each other to some darts, or a few fast games of foosball, or even, on cool nights, cornhole out back. When you work up an appetite after all that athletic exertion, chow down on classic pub grub.

Out beyond the Gene Snyder Expressway, at 10000 Brownsboro Rd., Casa Fiesta brings smiles to patrons from outer suburbia with huge portions of standard Mexican fare, served up in a spiffy modern atmosphere. For those simply seeking something familiar to keep hunger at bay, Sam’s Hot Dog Stand has opened at 1991 Brownsboro Rd., and Philly Steak & Burger, at 1578 Bardstown Rd., took off the wraps in June after a protracted construction process. Argo Sons Coffee, on 3640 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., is mostly a wholesaler of roasted beans, but it has a small walk-up espresso bar on-premise for quick pick-me-ups when grabbing an order of beans to go.

As for expansions of established restaurants, Bristol Bar & Grille, with five locations from Hurstbourne Ln. to the Jeffersonville riverfront, couldn’t pass up a chance to open a smaller, limited-menu venue at the Mellwood Arts Center, 1860 Mellwood Ave. Tony Palombino is expanding his gour met pizza powerhouse across the river by opening a Boombozz Pizza & Taphouse on the “sunny side” of the river at 1450 Veterans Pkwy., in Jeffersonville, Ind. Qdoba has opened two new locations: one at 6403 Bardstown Rd., and another at 1305 Veteran’s Pkwy. in Clarksville. And Senor Iguanas continues to grow steadily, opening a big outlet at 4000 Dutchman’s Ln., where Calistoga Sandwiches fizzled.

Spinelli’s brings its popular brand of pizza to Shively, with a new outlet at 8610 Dixie Hwy., Tom + Chee’s has opened a third grilled cheese emporium at 111 St. Matthews Ave., and Panda Express,

with 1,500 outlets already, just had to open a 1501st at 1232 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy.

CLOSINGS Perhaps the most notable closing, because of the sudden implosion of an outsized Food TV personality whose name was on the sign, is the closure of the Paula Deen Buffet at Horseshoe Casino in Elizabeth, Ind. We’ll report back when we learn what will replace the well-appointed buffet.

On a local level, Quattro, 450 S. Fourth St., tried to salvage the idea of a locallyowned entry into the Fourth Street Live! mix after Mozzaria’s demise, but veteran manager Bim Dietrich, and chef Josh Hillyard, who had had good runs at Equus and local countr y club kitchens, were brought in too late in the effort to make the concept workable, and Quattro, too folded before it could make an impression.

Clark’s Lyndon Village Pub has closed, but that is where Amy Z’s has taken over.

Gavi’s, a long-time player in the downtown lunch business mix, at 222 S. Seventh St., has closed, as has the quaint Cubana Restaurant at 2206 Frankfor t Ave. in Clifton. Ernesto’s, 4632 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., leads the rather large pack of ethnic eateries that we have discovered shuttered in the last few months. Once an up-andcoming entrant in the Mexican food scene, with numerous outlets, Ernesto’s now is officially defunct.

Other ethnic restaurants we’ve dis covered closed are Ming’s Buffet, 1971 Brownsboro Rd.; Liu’s Garden, 11517 Shelbyville Rd.; Bamboo House, 4036 Poplar Level Rd.; Tambayan Filipino, 9601 Newburg Rd.; La Columbiana, 808 Lyndon Ln.; Los Mezcales, 7502 Preston Hwy.; La Pasadita, 245 Market St., and Santa Fe, 318 Main Cross St., both in Charlestown, Ind. Expressions of You, 1800 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., has closed. Trailside Café at 1321 Herr Ln. in Westport Village has ceased operations, as have Green Room Coffee at 3640 Hurstbourne Pkwy., and King’s Coffee, 406 Popp Ave. in Sellersburg, Ind. Finally, three multi-outlet businesses have trimmed back by one location each: Asian Moon closed at 1915 Blankenbaker Pkwy.; while in Indiana, Beef O’Brady’s closed its store at 1450 Veteran’s Pkwy. in Jeffer sonville, and Hobknobb Roasting Co. shut the coffeehouse at 419 State St., in New Albany. F&D www.facebook.com/foodanddine Fall 2013

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humor

BY JAY FOREMAN

Food Network TNG

(The Next Generation)

Adrift in a fractured media landscape and having no clearly apparent sense of purpose, it is little wonder that the Food Network has lost its way. Are they about actual instruction? Not anymore — PBS and YouTube have that covered. Are they about entertainment? Top Chef on the competing network Bravo! stole the wind out of their sails. Who watches Chopped?! Consequently, ratings have fallen like a soufflé in an earthquake, and advertisers have jumped ship. Therefore, to help the Food Network regain its footing and get back on track, I propose the following Fall lineup changes: Animated Series for Kids – Emeril’s Ewoks

Downton Abbey – Inside Mrs. Patmore’s Pantry

This one is tricky, as it will require reestablishing a relationship with a slighted Emeril Lagasse, whose Food Network show was mysteriously — some say, sinisterly — canceled in 2007. But if they pull this off, it will secure the coveted male 5-12 year-old and 35+ white-male-dork demographic by cleverly embracing Anthony Bourdain’s famous reference to Emeril as an “Ewok.” Join Emeril the Ewok and his pals as they forage the hidden valleys and secret glades of the Forest Moon of Endor in a search for indigenous foodstuffs while avoiding Imperial Walkers. At the end of each episode, Emeril the Ewok demonstrates how to cook what they’ve found in a Viking-equipped outdoor kitchen (helllooo cross-branding) in their treetop canopy dwellings as they dance and sing the Wubnub song. The video game tie-in royalties for this one would generate enough revenue to fund the large budget necessary for…

Who says British food stinks? Everything tastes better when eaten off of Wedgewood china that predates the Mayflower on a Georgian mahogany dining table that costs more than your house.

In this co-produced BBC America spinoff, we learn what keeps Earl and Lady Grantham coming back for more. Mrs. Padmore’s secret: that boiled haunch of venison is seasoned with the toil of the working class. Each episode concludes with a primer on Edwardian flatware. One interesting tidbit — the sterling silver fish spoon predates the two-tined oyster fork by 15 years, as the latter was invented to accommodate the narrower shells of the variety found off the coast of Brittany. Later, men help other men to get dressed.

The Hunger Games – Catching Fieri In a dystopian future not too far removed from the present day, the entire roster of Food Network stars are recruited through a cruel lottery to hunt down and destroy Guy Fieri. After an elaborate opening ceremony which leans heavily on a scantily-clad Giada de Laurentis and a foppish Alton Brown as Master of Ceremonies, Guy is given a whisk, a bottle of hair bleach, and a five minute head start. He is then pursued, running-of-the-bulls style, through the streets of the Capitol by an enraged mob featuring a scimitar-wielding Ming Tsai and cybernetically-enhanced Paul Prudhomme on a Rascal hover-scooter. Later, it is revealed that Martha Stewart is the shadow-master behind Panem’s government. No real surprise there.

Iron Chef – Game of Thrones Each week a different challenger faces off against a choice of the latest Iron Chefs: Dothraki Horselord Khal Drogo, House Bolton charcuterie specialist “Gordon” Ramsay Snow, and brother/sister tag-team Cersei and Jamie Lannister. In the pilot episode, Ned Stark goes head-to-head against Team Lannister but comes up short. Later, celebrity chefs step into the fray. David Chang beats Khal Drogo in a Mongolian firepot face-off but later concedes defeat when confronted with a horde of 100,000 arakh-wielding mounted warriors. In the climactic season finale, the aptly-named Bobby Flay engages with Chef Snow in a cracklin’ cook-off about which the “Secret Ingredient” used is best left unspoken.

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Rachael Retro Ray – The Mad Men Years We all know that Rachael’s technical skills basically consist of an electric can opener and Google. So it only makes sense to send her through the looking glass, darkly, into the broody environs of Matthew Weiner’s mid-60s American kitchen. There she commiserates over cream of mushroom casseroles with Betty Draper and drinks grain alcohol flavored with vodka. Later, pie and electroshock therapy are served. Roger Sterling makes an appearance late in the season to boost flagging ratings.

Alton Brown’s How’d they Do That?

America’s favorite culinary nerdarian explores the science behind some of our favorite guilty treats. For example, did you know that the formula for Magic Shell comes from reverse-engineered Area 51 alien technology? And that NASA underwrote the development of Steak-Ums as a food that could survive cosmic radiation bombardment during a two-year manned mission to Mars? Fun facts like these, as well as stuff you really don’t want to know any more about, will be explored. Later, a clause in his contract requires him to fall off his motorcycle on-camera should his Nielsen drop below 2.1. ___________________ It will take a lot of work — co-branding and reestablishment of severed ties will be required in some instances, but I personally guarantee this will save the Food Network from going down with all hands. Note to network execs — no thanks required, but certified checks are always appreciated. F&D

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people and places profiles

BY CARLA CARLTON | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

CHEF ANTHONY LAMAS Age: 44 Current Restaurant: Seviche, a Latin Restaurant Previous Restaurants: Jicama, Timothy’s, Picasso, Baxter Station Neighborhood (current): Springhurst (Louisville) Hometown: Lindsay, California Significant other: Samantha (wife) Kids: Nicolas Anthony (20), Ethan Diego (10) and Ian Cruz (4) Favorite Hobbies: Anything outdoors — camping, hunting, etc.

Favorite Cookbook: Marco Pierre White’s White Heat Favorite Kitchen Gadget: Immersion blender, for bisques, chimichurri and sauces.

Q

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QA &

Anthony Lamas followed a girl to Kentucky from California in 1994. While that relationship didn’t last, Louisvillians have benefited from his marriage of Latin flavors and Southern ingredients ever since.

After stints at several local dining institutions, Lamas and a partner opened Jicama on Bardstown Road in 2000. When the lease was up they parted ways and he decided to start fresh, opening Seviche, a Latin Restaurant, in the same space in 2005. You can’t get much fresher than seviche, fresh raw fish “cooked” with citrus juices. But Lamas, who is now exploring opening a second restaurant in Nashville, Tenn., is careful about what he takes from the sea. His commitment to sustainable seafood earned him a Seafood Ambassador Award at the Monterey Bay Aquarium’s 2011 Cooking for Solutions festival. He has cooked at the James Beard House numerous times, and he was a founding chef of the increasingly influential Atlanta Food & Wine Festival. When he spoke with Food & Dining in early June, he had just returned from the third annual Festival, where he is now a member of the advisory council.

Why did you become a chef?

We lived in a big agricultural area. I was in Future Farmers of America; I worked on a veal ranch; we raised lambs, steers. It’s kind of ironic that I ended up being a chef because a lot of what I learned through agriculture, I apply now. When I was about 11 years old, my uncle had a restaurant called Lamasty. I grew up around that and I’d learn a little bit, like how to use a knife; it started as a trade for me. But it wasn’t until I moved to San Diego and met my mentor, Jeff Tunks, in 1989 that it changed from being a trade into an art. I was turned on by the passion of it. He took me under his wing and gave me confidence because he said I had a natural talent.

What is your first food memory?

I would go stay with my aunt — my Nina Yolanda, I called her — every summer. A lot of times she would have all the cousins over. She’d take us all to the grocery store

and give us five dollars each to get whatever we wanted. Everyone would run to get cupcakes and doughnuts, and I would go to the meat department and get a steak.

So what did you want to be when you grew up?

I loved music and I played the drums a little bit growing up, so I thought, ‘How cool would it be to be a drummer in a band?’

Being a chef is kind of like being the leader of a band. You have to have everybody working together. In music, everybody has to be on time and focused, and the rhythm has to be there — and I think it’s the same thing in restaurants.

Fill in the blank: If I weren’t a chef … … I’d still be a struggling musician (laughs).

Maybe I’d be working outside — maybe farming. Something to do with agriculture.

But it’s hard for me to imagine doing anything else.

Who influenced your cooking the most?

My mother. Even though we didn’t have a lot of money growing up, we always sat down at the dinner table together, and she always created amazing food with just the simplest ingredients.

Who are your favorite chefs?

Jean-Louis Palladin. I met him through Jeff Tunks. He came from France in the early ’80s and really challenged Americans to (See LAMAS, page 13)

(pictured below, from left) Albacore tiradito with celery salsa, yuzu, aji amarillo and spicy flowers; line-caught swordfish with a forest mushroom and orzo “risotto,” lobster truffle butter, fava beans, and crispy leaks; The “Avocado” — avocado ice cream, chocolate truffle pit, coffee pine nut soil, dulce de leche.

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Q Calamares a la Parrilla (grilled calamari) with black mojo de ajo, aji Amarillo and micro chervil.

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QA LAMAS

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(continued from page 11)

source the best ingredients. Also José Andrés, and Alice Waters because of what she did in California.

Other than your own restaurant, what’s the first place you’d take out-of-towners?

I’d go see Bobby Benjamin at La Coop. I love his food. There are simple, straightforward ingredients, but his food’s really clean and his passion shows. I love the ambience of Dean Corbett’s dining room — it makes you feel like you’re away. And then I would take them to Preston Highway to La Tropicana for some real-deal, amazing tacos.

Which seasonings don’t you respect?

Truffle oil. It’s not even a truffle. And people overuse it.

Which are underrated?

Salt, believe it or not. I think people are afraid of it, and so much food is so bland.

And maybe citrus. People don’t use it in the right way. A squeeze of lime in a soup can just make something pop.

Are there any culinary trends you are wild about right now?

I like that people are being more healthconscious — lighter, brighter foods, not so rich, not so much butter.

Any trends you consider overrated?

I’m so burned out on “farm to table.”

That’s what we do, that’s how I grew up, but people want to label themselves. We should be doing that — we should be sourcing the best-quality ingredients. My mom would go out and pick the avocado.

That’s how we should eat — I mean, it comes from the farm and it goes to the table. That term just irks me. And I’m over bacon. Bacon, bacon, bacon — bacon milkshakes. It’s just abused right now.

What’s your greatest strength in the kitchen?

The ability to get everyone focused and to inspire and teach people.

What’s your downfall?

My weakness, which I’ve been working on, is probably my temperament — keeping my emotions in check. I’m very passionate, and I’m Latino, and the passion comes across the wrong way.

What music was playing in the kitchen last night?

It could be anything from Johnny Cash to Dépêche Mode, from Dr. Dre to Cindy Lauper. (The music is all from his iPod.) The restaurant is kind of a reflection of me, I think; my personality comes through in the way it looks, the feeling, the music. I always say, “Mi casa, su casa.”

What’s your favorite go-to ingredient?

Citrus and fruits.

Is there a guilty-secret ingredient in your kitchen — something you’d rather not be spotted using?

There is. My wife gets it, but I use it. It’s the spray bottle of I Can’t Believe It’s Not Butter.

It’s so convenient for corn on the cob. I would never use it in the restaurant, but sometimes at home I’m lazy and it’s just there.

What else is in your personal fridge?

A lot of fruits and vegetables. Cucumbers.

I love simple cucumbers tossed with lemon, red-wine vinegar and salt; we snack on that.

And meats for the grill. I do a lot of grilling.

Your favorite quick meal to prepare at home?

Albondigas soup. It’s a meatball soup that my mother used to make when we were kids. She would take cooked rice and mix in raw beef and seasonings and oregano and make meatballs. Then she would make a chicken broth with some squash and carrots and potatoes and a little corn and drop the meatballs in and simmer it. It’s so delicious. One-pot meals like that, I do a lot.

Best cooking tip for a novice?

Don’t be afraid to undercook seafood. So many people want to cook it all the way through, and then it’s dry. You can always throw it back in. Also, give your proteins — chicken, steaks, fish — a nice sear in a cast iron before baking to really lock in the juices.

If you could cook a meal for anyone, who would it be and what would you cook?

That’s a good one. Um … who would that be? Gosh, that’s … let me ponder that one and come back.

OK. What was your own last foodrelated ‘wow’ moment?

I was just in Atlanta for the Food & Wine

Festival and I love what they are doing at Empire State South. The simplicity and all the local ingredients — you could tell it was springtime. You knew they were sourcing seasonally. And The Catbird Seat in Nashville. They do these modern interpretations of food. Sometimes when you do that, the flavors are second to the technique, but they just captured everything. It was like, ‘Look how beautiful that is, and look at that technique’ — and then you put your mouth on it and it was, oh my gosh, full of flavor.

Dumbest thing you’ve ever done with food or in a kitchen?

Chopping chilis and then using the restroom and rubbing my eyes, if you get my drift. I learned real quick.

What cooking skill required in your kitchen is the most difficult to master?

The balancing of flavors.

“Iron Chef Louisville” – Whom do you not want to battle?

There’s not anybody I wouldn’t want to battle. Bring it on. I’m not scared.

“Survivor: Louisville Chefs” – Name two local restaurant personalities you’d want on your team.

I’d say Bobby Benjamin would be one, and then I’d go with Adam Burress at Hammerheads. Bobby is in shape — he was a baseball player — and Adam is from the woods here in Kentucky. He was my sous chef for five years and I used to tease him.

If I needed him to climb a tree barefoot, he could do it.

OK, back to that previous question: If you could cook for anyone … ?

I could go so many different ways. I could say Julia Child; I could say the president; I could say my mother. But my mother is still here, and I can cook for her a lot. So I’m going to go with something fun: the original Charlie’s Angels, all three of them, because I had a crush on them as a kid. I would do something very romantic, like a rib roast with butter-poached lobster and grilled asparagus with lemon-chipotle Hollandaise.

And for dessert I would do strawberry shortcake with fresh-picked strawberries, whipped cream and edible flowers. F&D www.facebook.com/foodanddine Fall 2013 13

liquids cork 101

BY SCOTT HARPER | PHOTOGRAPHS BY EDIS CELIK

6 Wine Pairings Seasonally Inspired

Heirloom tomatoes with burrata cheese, olive oil and balsamic Côtes De Provence Sables d’Azur Gassier 2012 (Provence, France)

Grilled baby back ribs with slightly spicy BBQ sauce Malbec Altos Las Hormigas 2010 (Mendoza, Argentina)

Perhaps my favorite wine and food pairing is homegrown heirloom tomatoes and a dr y, crisp Côtes De Provence Rosé.

Remember to buy fresh, young Rosé, one or two years old. Just like with the tomatoes, you are trying to capture the wine’s freshness. A ripe tomato has a nice level of acidity and the Rosé acidity should match.

A pale, rose-copper colored wine, it is a light, dr y and crisp “quaffer” of a Rosé, fresh and lively with fruity flavors of strawberry, cherry and melon that is fresh and persistent. Made from a blend of Grenache, Cinsault, Carignan and Syrah grapes.

When I think of grilled meats I think of Argentina, and when I think of Argentine wine I think of Malbec. When pairing wine with BBQ sauce you must be careful. Stay away from sweet BBQ with wine, but BBQ ribs that are smoky, salty, spicy and full-flavored you will need a big, rich wine with plenty of body. Malbec is the perfect wine for ribs doused with a slightly spicy BBQ sauce. This Malbec is boldly flavored with distinctive tastes of red fruits, black fruits and baking spices, with a richness just like the ribs. Or, you can try pairing with a red Zinfandel.

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Cedar plank salmon Pinot Noir Hahn 2011 (California) Pinot Noir has done a great job changing the notion that red wine does not go with fish.The key to matching red wine with fish is that the red wine needs to be very low in tannin. If the wine is too high in tannin it will emphasize the fish oils and help create certain unappetizing flavors. Additionally, the fish should be a full-flavored fish like salmon or tuna. Combine that with a cooking technique like grilling on a cedar plank, which adds even more fullness of flavor, and many white wines wouldn’t go as well. This Pinot Noir has the flavors of black cherries, spice and a silky mouth feel.

It is low in tannin but medium-bodied. It makes a delicious match.

Pairing wine and food can be complicated, but only if we overthink it. There are many factors that go into an excellent pairing, but probably one of the first things that comes to mind when pairing wine with food is the relative weight of the wine and the food. The general rule is that you would pair light with light, medium with medium, and heavy with heavy. Consider a boxing match with a 350-pound, muscle-bound bruiser up against a thin 150-pound guy — not a good match. In a wine and food match, the equivalent would be a Dover sole with a full-bodied, tannic Cabernet Sauvignon. The Cabernet would overwhelm the sole and the food would not be enjoyable. The better choice would be a light, dry, crisp Sauvignon Blanc with the Dover sole; or a New York strip au poivre with the full-bodied, tannic Cabernet Sauvignon.

Shown here are six examples of what I think would be very good wine and food pairings for the season. Be adventurous — try new wines with different foods. You never know, it could become your new favorite.

Grilled hamburger Garanacha Bodega San Alejandro ‘Las Rocas’ 2009 (Calatayud, Spain) This is a perennial grilling classic, stereotypically paired with beer (and I do not deny that pairing would be tasty as well), but here we are looking at a full-flavor burger matching a full-flavor wine.

Although burger preparation and topping selections can vary, this big, rich, savory Grenache-based wine would stand up to almost any combination. The wine is jampacked, with black cherry, red cherry, black berry and nice oak-driven baking spices. It has soft tannins and a lush round mouthfeel. Serve this wine, like most reds, just below room temperature, at around 65 degrees Fahrenheit.

Littleneck clams in a white wine with pancetta, garlic and onion Riesling Pierre Sparr 2011 (Alsace, France) Shellfish is an excellent warm-weather appetizer. Having wine with shellfish is easy.

Choose a wine that is light but full-flavored like the dish.You need copious acidity that will refresh the palate from the slightly salty flavor, and act almost as a squeeze of fresh lemon on the clams themselves. No big, rich, high-alcohol wines with oak flavors allowed here, as they would mask the flavor of the littleneck clams. This wine is dry, well-balanced, light-bodied and crisp.

Aromas and flavors of lemon peel and apple are followed by peach and apricot.

Made from 100% dry Riesling grapes.

Grilled porterhouse steak Cabernet Sauvignon Honig 2011 (Napa Valley, California) Choose high-quality beef with good fat marbling. Not only does this marbling help season the meat but it tames the tannins in red wine, allowing you to taste more of the flavors in the wine and the beef.

Serve a heavily tannic red wine with wellmarbled — not a lean — cut of beef, and you may be surprised at how much it changes and improves both the wine and the food. Honig Cabernet Sauvignon is a relative value for Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. This full-bodied wine has flavors of black cherry, plum and cassis, with hints of allspice and vanilla from oak ageing.

www.facebook.com/foodanddine Fall 2013 15

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liquids hip hops

BY ROGER A. BAYLOR | PHOTOGRAPH BY DAN DRY

ALE

there’s an appfor that

Buckhead’s tablets help make your beer choice better Human nature often displays a yearning for simpler times — a slower pace of life, fewer worries, and a return to the good old days.

Consider how easy it used to be to order a beer.

Back then, most beer drinkers drank the same mass-market beer ever y time. For the slightly more adventurous, it was simple to learn which beers were available at an eatery or watering hole, because if you asked, the server would tell you: “All of them.”

Loosely translated, this meant any mass-market beer or its low-calorie variant, providing it was goldencolored, tasted like carbonated water, and adver tised on television during major sporting events.

Thankfully, “good old” days like these are over, and if anything, we now enjoy a surfeit of choice. First came the imports, followed by an American craft beer revolution right here at home. These developments gave us better beer, but made it far more difficult for establishments to communicate available options — assuming there was somewhere to put them.

Suddenly draft handles exponentially increased, and stand-up coolers filled with bottles (and more recently, cans) were squeezed into any empty nook. The customers began asking for non-frosted glasses — but precisely which were needed, seeing as style-friendly glassware was filling shelves and pushing wine glasses around the corner toward the mop sink?

In this new amok era of proliferation, what was a server at an 16 Fall 2013 www.foodanddine.com

aspiring geek-friendly corner bar to do when asked, “So, what beers do you have?”

Panic, that’s what.

From the very beginning, bars and restaurants made lists of their beers just as they’d always done for wine and spirits. Whether chalked onto a blackboard or photocopied for tabletop placement (top-shelf joints might even laminate them), conventional beer lists worked well enough, but stubbornly required constant upkeep and consistent editorial decision making.

To alphabetize beers, or arrange by country, brewery, style or sub-style? Should alcohol content, bitterness units and other relevant consumer information be included? Is the font too small,

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or the blackboard too crowded? What about that annoying chalk dust?

How much beer information is too much, especially when seasonals and specialties are expected to constantly rotate?

Finally, what happens when the only staffer capable of operating the copier goes on holiday, and all the paper beer lists become soggy, crumpled messes?

Enter Buckhead Mountain Grill and its sister business, Rocky’s Sub Pub. When the latter added dozens of beer taps to its Jeffersonville location in 2011, the company’s brain trust made two critical decisions: Contemporary information technology would be harnessed in the service of thousands of years of progress in fermentation science, and Tisha Gainey would be hired as the Beverage Director to oversee the evolving beer program.

The fundamental challenge facing Buckhead, Rocky’s and any other craft-friendly establishment is how best to educate consumers approaching the craft beer genre for the first time. When they’ve gotten a dram of gumption and are willing to sample a new beer, it needs to be the right introduction.

Communication is the key.

Those of us fluent in the craft beer curriculum have few difficulties explaining it, but we can’t always be on hand. Servers and bartenders are the suggested intermediaries, and while they do their best to answer questions while engaged in normally frenetic front-line routines, they need support.

The New Age solution for public use deployed at Buckhead and Rocky’s is an Android tablet with an interactive app. The app provides all the basic information about a particular beer, including the name, brewery, style, alcohol content, bittering units and color. When a keg is blown and a different one is tapped to replace it, a single update on the administrator’s master console suffices; no more erasures, cross-outs or paper beer lists falling weeks out of date — or blurred beyond recognition after being used as coasters.

Tisha Gainey is the woman behind the app. Her inner beer aficionado impels the

outreach, rendering the app comprehensible, and enabling first-timers and grizzled veterans alike to learn more about the beer styles on offer.

In 2011, Gainey became Beverage Director for all the Buckhead and Rocky’s locations. She’d midwifed the regional craft beer scene explosion while working as a wholesaler rep in Southern Indiana (and briefly in Kentucky), and her insider’s view of all sides of the issues facing on-premise operators like Wes Johnson and Mike Kapfhammer hardly escaped their notice.

“They wanted me all to them selves,” explained Gainey one morning at Buckhead as she guided me through the app’s uses. When Gainey came aboard, she brought her existing skill set in sales and found that many elements for an expanded beer program already were in place, including plenty of tap handles, management enthusiasm and at least one pioneering employee, Tony Revak.

“Tony’s a huge reason why there’s craft beer here,” she said, adding that a better way of organizing beer selections was her mandate from the start, taking the experience and observations of workers like Revak into account.

The Android app was in development, but practical input was required for it to be more than just an electronic gimmick. Gainey’s question was deceptively simple: “What would I say (to educate customers) if I were there in person?”

In its release and subsequent tweaking, the Buckhead and Rocky’s Android app facilitates triage. For the cautious Coors Light drinker looking to dabble, an app search for golden-colored, malty craft beer might lead straight to Kolsch (Schlafly makes a good one), American Wheat (though not the decidedly hoppy Three Floyds Gumballhead) or Blonde Ale, depending on what is available at the moment. If all three are pouring, the app helps the user build a flight of samplers.

What’s next for the app? Pie in the sky … or maybe the iCloud? There’ll be more interconnectivity with personal devices, reflecting the worldwide community of beer lovers drinking locally while thinking globally.

What it all means is this: When it comes to beer, the ‘good old’ days are now. F&D www.facebook.com/foodanddine Fall 2013 17

pick three

PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

P

3

ick

For this installment of Pick Three, we did a little globe-trotting — all without straying more than a few miles from home.

Our first stop: Korea, to sample authentic home cooking at Charim Korean Restaurant, where we sat down with Yeon-Hee Chung, a first-time restaurateur with a mission to share the food of her homeland. (by Katy Yocom) Next we traveled to the shared border of Japan and Mexico — and if you can’t locate that spot on Google Maps, just step inside Dragon King’s Daughter, where tacos and sushi coexist to savory effect. (by J. Christian Walsh) Finally, it was off to Cuba, where the folks who brought you Havana Rumba and Mojito are trying out a new concept — make that two concepts — within the colorful walls of Havana Rumba Express & Tapas Bar. (by Katy Yocom) 18 Fall 2013 www.foodanddine.com

Charim Korean Restaurant 4123 Oechsli Ave. (502) 290.8900

BY KATY YOCOM

Pull up a chair for home cooking — Korean style When chef/owner Yeon-Hee Chung talks about her restaurant, Charim, the conversation keeps coming back to the nokdo jeon. “This is very authentic food,” she says of the Korean-style pancake with mung beans, kimchi, and bean sprouts. “It’s eaten during celebrations,” such as Korean New Year, or a birthday party for an elder family member. Despite its role in traditional culture, Chung has noticed that other Korean restaurants in town don’t serve it. “It’s a lot of work,” she acknowledges: the dried mung beans have to be soaked for hours, then ground into a paste. “But worth it.”

Charim (pronounced “cha,” as in cha-cha-cha, “rim,” as in Pacific Rim) means “the table is set,” and Chung chose that name to offer a welcome to her customers. In her 17 years in Louisville — her husband studied at Southern Baptist Theological Seminary — she has stayed busy studying English and working towards a business management degree. But she also felt pulled to share her heritage with the denizens of her adopted city in a way that “feels comfortable, like home,” she says. To that end — and with zero restaurant experience — early last year, she opened Charim.

It’s a small space, with 13 tables in a prosaic dining room in the Oechsli Avenue strip that also houses Havana Rumba. Other restaurants have come and gone here. But what might make the difference for Charim is its dedication to home cooking.

Jap-Chae — clear noodles with spinach, carrots, shiitake mushrooms, onions and scallions.

In that spirit, Chung has kept her menu simple.

Each meal begins with banchan, a collection of small side dishes or accompaniments that make for a colorful and varied table. In the menu’s entrées column, there’s one beef dish, one pork, one chicken, one short rib (because if you’re doing Korean, you have to offer short ribs). There’s grilled bulgogi ($15), the familiar marinated beef in soy sauce. A wildly popular item is the hot stone bibim bap ($13), a rice dish with assorted vegetables in a spicy sauce, with an egg on top. Served in a sizzling hot stone bowl, the dish comes together when you break the egg and mix it up, cooking the egg in the process.

Chung is proud of her kimchi, which she makes fresh, and of her seasonings, many of which she imports from Korea. She believes fervently in the health benefits of Korean dining, with its emphasis on fresh vegetables. (You won’t find MSG in Chung’s kitchen.) But she isn’t looking to challenge her customers. “I don’t serve things people don’t know how to eat,” she says. The items on her menu are exactly the same as what she cooks at home. “It’s not Americanized, not fusion style. This is how we’re really eating.” It’s the food you’d find if you traveled to Korea. The thing is, she says, “If they don’t visit Korea, they can taste it over here.” (opposite, top) Chef/owner Yeon-Hee Chung (seated) with daughter DaJung Chung. (top left) Tofu and braised kimchi. (top, second row, L-R) Jal-Bai — grilled, marinated beef short ribs; pajeon — Korean-style pancakes with scallions, calamari, shrimp and mussels. (below, L-R) Banchan — an assortment of side dishes including pickled cucumbers, boiled peanuts, kimchi, mung bean sprouts, fishcake and radish kimchi; mung bean sprouts; bibim bap — rice and vegetables topped with egg and spicy sauce.

Dragon King’s Daughter 202 E. Elm St. (New Albany, IN)

(812) 725.8600 1126 Bardstown Rd. (502) 632.2444

BY J. CHRISTIAN WALSH

Osaka meets Oaxaca — How a Japanese chef discovered Mexico in Kentucky The cuisine at Dragon King’s Daughter flashes more passports than a Jason Bourne movie. Chef Toki Masubuchi’s dishes, based on Japanese classics, are prone to wanderlust, moving across Asia, around Europe and softly landing somewhere south of the U.S. border. At the original Highlands location, tacos and quesadillas receive an Eastern spin. At the recently-opened DKD in New Albany, Ind., Masubuchi gives her menu the tapas treatment.

Masubuchi says she wants to show Kentuckiana that her native cuisine is more than tempura and teriyaki. She is, understandably, not shy in extolling the vir tues of the food she grew up eating in Osaka, but is equally generous toward those influences that have entered her repertoire since arriving in the States.

“Whatever the food, if it tastes good, it tastes good,” says Masubuchi.

At her previous post, Maido Essential Japanese, the chef ’s palette was influenced by the Mexican kitchen staff who’d display their chops during staff meals, introducing unfamiliar ingredients from Louisville’s ethnic markets. After exposing her to authentic Mexican stands around town, the oncereluctant Masubuchi became a taco convert.

The Dragon King concept was born with a Yakiniku taco experiment, which can be had at the Highlands DKD in the form of Asian BBQ Beef Tacos ($10) — grilled rib eye, smoky-sweet Kogi-style barbecue sauce and a wasabi mayo drizzle. Masubuchi’s riff on Mexican street food follows this basic model and price point, interchanging proteins, particularly seafood, with a variety of Japanese dressings and technique.

DKD doesn’t always confine its itinerary to Japan and Mexico. North of the Ohio, a light dusting of south-of-the-border spice is available — a Chile Relleno ($6) spiked with pineapple teriyaki, for instance — primarily though, DKD-New Albany is about affordable Asian small-plates.

Both DKD settings offer artfully prepared sushi made with what Masubuchi calls “not weird” fish.

Salmon, tuna and yellow tail make up the maki and assigned chuckle-worthy monikers like Sushi and the Banshees ($10), and Hoosier Mama ($14). Unagi (fresh water eel) is about as kooky as it gets. The grilled, savory filets appear in the namesake Dragon King’s Daughter roll ($13), with shrimp tempura and avocado. (from top) Chef/owner Toki Masubuchi; Shumai — pork and crab steamed dumplings; Hijiki — sea vegetables, fried tofu and carrots; (left) Tuna Takai flatbread — Ahi tuna, avocado and fried garlic.

Departures Masubuchi left Osaka with hopes of becoming a foreign correspondent in New York. The pursuit landed her at a college in Columbia, Ky., of all places. The town’s three square miles held about 3,800 people, less than one-percent of them Asian. The culture shock the student experienced in this land of Baptist churches, gun shops and fast food restaurants is understandable. Masubuchi had trouble finding a bowl of rice in Adair County, let alone Japanese delicacies. She soon longed for the “Kuidaore” food culture that her hometown is famous for.

So, it was with a hungry belly that Masubuchi returned to Japan following her Lindsey Wilson College days. Although not yet considering a career in restaurants, she advanced deeper into her culinary education. Her father was a regional manager for a large restaurant chain, wellversed in Japan’s seafood and vegetable markets.

Masubuchi recalls his crack-of-dawn excursions, collecting the finest fish and vegetables the country had to offer. Little in mom’s kitchen was frozen, processed or microwaved.

Masubuchi would later study at the University of Louisville. The city’s food scene offered an upgrade from Columbia’s Taco Bells, but there remained a culinar y void Masubuchi became determined to fill on her own. She finished school and in 2002, hit her father up for a loan.

Dad was not enthusiastic, but not unencouraging.

Start small. Cut your teeth. Prove that you can do it, he told her. Much like the character in the legend of the Dragon King’s Daughter, Masubuchi would have to first show her doubters that she was capable of enlightenment. With that paternal advice and a little cash, she opened a take-out sushi stand in a former Bardstown Road fish market.

Raw fish in a landlocked state was a hard sell, but the chef rolled on. After about a year and a half, Maido-To-Go had earned its share of fans, along with the capital to upgrade to a full-service restaurant on Frankfort Avenue.

“I really wanted to eat the food I used to eat, at the places I used to go, the markets and home cooking,” says Masubuchi. “That’s what I tried to do at the Maido.”

Maido was a hit and Masubuchi has been building on her success since. Asked if it’s stressful now running two restaurants, she smiles widely and says, “No, I just have twice as many friends.”

Has her father tried her food yet? Masubuchi’s smile widens.

“Pop is a tough critic. And he’s an Asian dad, so he doesn’t compliment very much.”

Is he the Dragon King, then?

“Yes, I think so,” laughs Masubuchi. “But, he’s very proud.”

(clockwise, from above) Drunken chicken taquitos — sake-steamed chicken with carrots, cabbage, cilantro and miso dressing; fried rice of onions, carrots, corn, mushrooms and edamame with citrus mayo; Chile relleno — tempura-fried jalapeños stuffed with tofu, shiitake mushrooms and Oaxaca cheese; assorted sushi (Hoosier Mama, Italian Picnic, Patsy Stone Roll and Citrus Heat); Asian BBQ beef tacos.

Havana Rumba Express 2210 Bardstown Rd. (502) 74 9 . 4 6 0 0

BY KATY YOCOM

(top) Owners Marcos Lorenzo (in white), Maria Conchita Perez and Joel Toste. (center, L-R) Potato cake topped with shrimp, pickled carrots and guacamole; Havana Rumba’s Tapas Bar. (above, L-R) Brazilian-style grilled sirloin on the spit and plated. (right) Black sausage, goat cheese with fig on tumaca bread. (opposite page, clockwise from top) Ropa vieja; the “Cubano” sandwich; Havana Rumba’s main dining room; cantaloupe cubes wrapped in serrano ham; grilled asparagus, serrano ham, roasted red pepper and quail egg on tumaca bread; filet mignon and blue cheese skewer.

22 Fall 2013 www.foodanddine.com

Havana Rumba Express & Tapas Bar — Cuban goes fast-casual.

But wait! There’s more!

Marcos Lorenzo and his Havana Rumba coowners had a goal when they came up with the concept for Havana Rumba Express & Tapas Bar: lean, mean, and easily replicated.

But the eatery, which had its soft opening in mid-June, is actually a little more complicated than its initial conception. As planned, it offers a fastcasual, Qdoba-style approach to Cuban food, complete with a line from which customers pick sides, meats, salads, toppings and desserts. What wasn’t in the original plan is the other, more intimate side of the dining room — a Spanish-style tapas bar, where seven high tables flank a sleek wooden bar, and hot and cold cases display the tapas that come out of the kitchen all night long.

Why the change in concept? In a word, oppor tunity. “This space came on the market and I think it was a blessing,” Lorenzo says. The space in question, on Bardstown Road at the Douglass Loop, used to house both Desserts by Helen and Fat Jimmy’s. At 4,200 square feet, it was way too big for fast-casual — but Lorenzo and Co. started thinking about the success of Mojito, their Holiday Manor tapas restaurant. Why not create something similar here, in the heart of the Highlands?

Thus the dual-dining-room restaurant was born.

The owners decked it out in energetic shades of red, orange, and yellow and carried through the familiar cigar-box table tops diners will recognize from Havana Rumba.

Adding a tapas menu and full bar ramped up the complication factor (and staffing needs) a bit, but

Lorenzo says it’s still far less complicated than a ticket-by-ticket, made-to-order restaurant like Havana Rumba. For the fast-casual side, food is made mostly in batches. A build-your-own entrée option lets diners choose sides such as rice ($1) and black beans ($2), a meat (ropa vieja, $4; lechon asado, $3), salad, drink and dessert, all priced à la carte. For heartier appetites, there are pressed sandwiches such as the Cubano ($4) and the Havana Rumba ($5). (Allow 10 minutes for your sandwich to come out of the press.)

Aficionados of the excellent salads at Havana Rumba and Mojito can pretty much re-create their favorite salad for around $5.

Meanwhile, over the tapas bar, a hand-lettered chalkboard announces that tapas menu items will come and go through the course of the evening, as the kitchen prepares them and customers wolf them down. But with over 30 items on the tapas menu, ranging from classic Spanish (patatas bravas, $2; stuffed piquillo peppers, $2.50) to not-so-classic (hummus, $2.50; Miami hot wings, $2) — and with a Spanish chef, Maria Conchita Perez, creating them — the owners are hoping nobody will mind much.

Notice those prices? Unlike at Mojitos, where the dishes are substantially larger than true Spanish tapas, the offerings here are actually bite-sized. “It’s fun. The portions are small, so you can try a lot,” Lorenzo says.

If you order croquettes, you get one, for $1.50. That way, “you get the chance to enjoy a lot of different things — and drinks.”

The only potential problem with the tapas concept — affordable though it may be — is that you may gobble up your favorite item all too quickly and then mourn its absence on your plate. In that case, the best solution may be the simplest: Flag down your server and order another. F&D

easy entertaining tapas party The word “tapas� is derived from the Spanish verb tapar, which means to cover. Many sources say the original tapas were slices of bread or ham used in Spanish taverns to cover the patrons’ glasses of sherry.

This was needed to prevent fruit flies from getting in the glass between sips, and also gave them something to nibble on while drinking. The word has also become known as a style of dining which includes many small plates for sharing or small bites. A tapas party offers your guests the opportunity to try many different tastes throughout the evening. You can even go beyond the traditional Spanish dishes here and add your own favorite appetizers.

We consulted with our favorite entertainer, Judy Aguera, whose grandparents came from Spain and Italy. She graciously shared some of her recipes and ideas which we have enjoyed at her home. For your tapas extravaganza, plan on making 6 to 8 dishes and start with lighter dishes first, then heavier, then dessert or something sweet. Many of these recipes can be used as appetizers for other entertaining occasions.

Another fun tapas party idea is to have your friends each bring their favorite appetizer or tapas dish to share. Better yet, have them bring one of the following recipes.

BY TIM AND LORI LAIRD | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

asy E

apas T www.facebook.com/foodanddine Fall 2013 25

Pesto Peppers SERVES 4 - 6

1 red bell pepper, seeded, cut into ½-inch strips 1 yellow bell pepper, seeded, cut into ½-inch strips 1 orange bell pepper, seeded, cut into ½-inch strips 2 tablespoons fresh oregano, finely chopped 4 anchovies, chopped 3 garlic cloves, finely chopped 2 tablespoons capers, drained and chopped ¼ cup extra virgin olive oil ¼ teaspoon black pepper In a small bowl, combine the oregano, anchovies, garlic, capers, olive oil and pepper. Refrigerate at least 2 hours or overnight. Place pepper strips on a baking sheet; bake at 400 degrees for 15 minutes, or until just tender. Cool to room temperature. Spread a small amount of the pesto on each of the peppers. Serve at room temperature.

Garlic Chicken SERVES 4 - 6

1 pound skinless, boneless chicken breasts, cut into 1-inch pieces ½ teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper 1 tablespoon paprika ¼ cup olive oil 6 garlic cloves, sliced 1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves ½ cup sherry ½ cup chicken broth In a small bowl, combine the salt, pepper and paprika. Rub this mixture on the chicken pieces and refrigerate. In a large sauté pan, heat the oil over medium heat; add the chicken pieces and cook until browned on both sides, about 6 to 8 minutes. Transfer the chicken to a large baking dish and arrange in a single layer. Using the same sauté pan, add the sliced garlic and cook for 2 to 3 minutes on low heat until softened. Add the thyme leaves, sherry and chicken broth; raise the heat to high, and bring to a boil. Pour this sauce over the chicken in the baking dish. Bake at 400 degrees, until chicken is cooked through, approximately 20 to 25 minutes.

Chorizo con Vino Tinto SERVES 4

1 pound chorizo sausage, cut into ¼-inch slices ½ cup Cabernet Sauvignon wine 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley 2 garlic cloves, minced 1 baguette, cut into large cubes Arrange sausage slices in single layer in a shallow baking dish.

Pour in the wine. Sprinkle with the parsley and minced garlic.

Bake in a 450 degree oven for about 10 minutes, until cooked through. Serve directly from baking dish, with bread cubes for soaking up the sauce.

Garlic and Brandy Shrimp SERVES 6 - 8

2 10-ounce bags of large shrimp, frozen, raw, peeled and deveined 8 garlic cloves, sliced 1 tablespoon butter 1 tablespoon olive oil 2 tablespoons brandy 2 tablespoons parsley, finely chopped Salt Defrost shrimp according to package directions. In a sauté pan over mediumhigh heat, melt the butter with the olive oil. Add the shrimp and sliced garlic. Cook until shrimp turns pink on all sides, approximately 3 minutes.

Remove shrimp from pan and reserve.

To the heated pan (off the burner) add the brandy. Place pan back on the burner and stir until brandy and pan drippings reduce, about 2 minutes.

Place shrimp back into pan. Add the parsley, and salt to taste. Transfer to platter, and serve immediately.

Meat and Cheese Board

Meats: Prosciutto Sopresetta

Other Items: Castelvetrano olives Marcona almonds Dried figs

Dried apricots Dried pears Toasted baguette

Cheese: Sharp such as an English Cheddar or Italian Provolone Blue such as Valdeón (Sharp Spanish) or La Peral (Mild Spanish) Creamy such as St. André (French) or Délice de Bourgogne (French) Aged Manchego (Spanish)

Mango Mojito SERVES 4

1 cup Finlandia Mango vodka 1½ cups mint simple syrup, recipe follows ¼ cup fresh lime juice (from 2 to 3 large limes) 1 cup club soda, chilled Fresh mint sprigs, for garnish In a pitcher, combine the vodka, simple syrup, lime juice and club soda. Pour into four ice-filled glasses and garnish with mint sprigs.

Mint Simple Syrup 1 cup sugar 1 cup water 1 packed cup fresh mint leaves Combine the sugar and water in a sauce pan and bring to a boil over medium heat. Reduce heat and simmer about 5 minutes, stirring often. Remove from heat and add the mint. Allow to steep for 20 minutes. Strain before using, pressing on mint leaves to extract as much syrup as possible.

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The new New Albany In historic New Albany, where you can park, stroll, and enjoy, there’s a renaissance happening. New restaurants and shops, public art and history, and a Greenway along the river, beckon you to relax and recreate in an historic setting on the Ohio River.

Come try our acclaimed eateries, award-winning art museum, winery, microbrewery, and recreational opportunities, all delivered on a human scale.

Discover the future in an historic setting.

Come explore New Albany’s Renaissance on the River.

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liquids coffee

BY DAVID LANGE

The Continued Rise of Coffeehouses

Coffee Shops

Locations

Many suggest that the lifeblood of America is oil, but if you really investigate what makes our daily activities successful, you’ll see it’s the invigorating components of coffee. To anyone who starts their day with it, coffee is the real black gold.

The most traded commodity in the world is oil, but coffee, that little brown bean that makes each day a little more bearable, is second. Once Europeans learned about the stimulating beverage from the Near East, coffee’s popularity exploded. England’s first coffeehouse opened in Oxford in 1650. Fifty years later there were 2,000 in London alone.

Though our local market has not grown as much as England’s in coffee’s first heyday, when I started writing for Food & Dining in 2004 there were a scant 22 coffeehouses in Louisville. Now there are 40 locations scattered throughout the city, and that does not count the 40-plus Starbucks locations that include stand-alone stores, kiosks and other venues.

And those numbers continue to escalate. Now multiple locations of local chains have become neighborhood fixtures.

Heine Brothers now boasts 13 locations that grind and brew for their clientele, while supporters of Quills, Java Brewing Company and Sunergos now can get their java jolt at three sites each.

Reg. Reg. Coffee Coffee Latte Price Price Price Rank (12 oz.)

(12 oz.)

Purveyors and patrons of the Louisville coffee scene are energetic, knowledgeable and definitely passionate. Local coffeehouses are operated by people with coffee in their blood. It’s evident in their enthusiasm and the artistic manner displayed in their craft.

Coffeehouses have evolved beyond just places to get a hot cup on-the-go.They’ve become havens from the turmoil of society with Wi-Fi accessibility, tuning stations for the latest musical tastes — not to mention artisan-prepared libations people spend good money to consume.

And that produces an interesting question: How do all of these different purveyors of coffee compare on price? I thought it would be revealing to make a simple, but accurate, comparison of coffee prices at local coffeehouses. My investigation would concentrate on the price of a straightforward 12-ounce cup of coffee, and also the price of a latte — one of the more popular, but still uncomplicated, specialty drinks.

It was surprising to see (on the below chart) that the pricing on all fronts was highly comparable, which I see as a product of intense competition. What’s good to note is that these prices are definitely below those found in larger cities, so despite what some might think, Louisvillians are getting a bargain!

Latte Price Rank

Median Price

Argo Sons Coffee

1

$1.89

13 (t)

$2.35

1

$2.12

Bean Street Coffee Co.

1

$1.65

3 (t)

$3.05

13

$2.35

Caffe Classico

1

$2.00

20

$3.75

22

$2.88

Coffee Crossing

1

$1.59

2

$2.95

5 (t)

$2.27

Day’s Espresso And Coffee Bar

1

$1.75

5 (t)

$3.45

19

$2.60

Heine Brothers

13

$1.89

13 (t)

$3.00

8 (t)

$2.45

Highland Coffee Co.

1

$2.10

21 (t)

$3.10

14 (t)

$2.60

Hobknobb Roasting Co.

1

$1.75

5 (t)

$2.85

4

$2.30

Java Brewing Co

3

$1.89

13 (t)

$3.00

8 (t)

$2.45

Kaelin’s Coffeehouse Mrs. Potter’s Coffee

1

$1.95

18 (t)

$3.70

21

$2.83

1

$1.80

10

$3.00

8 (t)

$2.40

Perkfection Please And Thank You

1

$1.95

18 (t)

$3.30

17

$2.63

1

$1.75

5 (t)

$3.00

8 (t)

$2.38

Quill’s Coffee Shop

3

$2.10

21 (t)

$3.35

18

$2.73

Red Hot Roasters

2

$1.88

12

$3.50

20

$2.69

Sister Beans

1

$1.65

3 (t)

$2.70

2

$2.18

Smokey’s Bean

1

$1.50

1

$3.00

8 (t)

$2.25

Sonoma Coffee Café Starbucks Sunergos Coffee Tazza Mia Vint Coffee 30 Fall 2013 www.foodanddine.com

1

$1.85

11

$3.10

14 (t)

$2.48

40+

$1.75

5 (t)

$2.75

3

$2.25

3

$1.89

13 (t)

$3.15

16

$2.52

1

$1.75

5 (t)

$2.95

5 (t)

$2.35

1

$1.89

13 (t)

$2.98

7

$2.44

Our research revealed that the average price for a cup of coffee in the market will set you back $1.83 and around $3.09 for a latte.

The difference between the highest ($2.10) and lowest cup of coffee ($1.50) is $0.60, and a more substantial $1.35 for a latte (the low at $2.35 and the high of $3.70).

For most of us, it comes down to taste and conven ience. But at least now you’ll know how your favorite coffeehouse stacks up against the other guys.

For more information on the coffee shops listed, see the “Coffee/Tea Houses” section of our restaurant guide on page 80.

Note: All prices listed are before tax, and were accurate at press time.

An Interesting Trend With the emergence of so many micro-roasters in our region, a growing number of coffeehouses are buying their coffees from roasters who also manage their own coffee bars. That means some coffee retailers actually are buying coffee from their direct competitors.

That’s striking because using coffee from a direct competitor inevitably leads to the exchange of techniques and instructions used by this same competitor. I see that as a conflict of interest down the road. Since any reputable coffee roaster insists on quality to substantiate the claim his coffee is the very best, it seems illogical he would share that competitive knowledge with an immediate competitor.

But that is what’s happening here, though it’s not the first time. This same situation happened in the Chicago area with the emergence of Intelligentsia Coffee.

So many coffeehouses became enamored with hitching their wagons to the Intelligentsia name and its marketing capabilities, that they rushed to get Intelli gentsia’s coffees put in their shops.

As it turned out, however, the deal only worked well for Intelligentsia. Its coffee was now in loads of shops, yet it had no investment into brick and mortar, equipment or training. Very quickly, Intelligentsia gained a lot of new retail outlets while a lot of independent coffeehouses lost their identity. Aware they could get the Intelligentsia brand about anywhere, customers once loyal to a select number of java stops lost the need to frequent only those.

Wes Herman, owner of the popular Washington-based Woods Coffee , summed up the problem very well. “It is a great thing to establish rapport with your roaster, but you have to keep them honest.

The truth is, that once a roaster becomes comfortable with you, they may pass on price increases more readily. Find the balance between your costs and the quality of the products that represent your identity. Don’t take on the identity of your supplier, your customers will appreciate your own unique individuality.”

I agree wholeheartedly. F&D

www.facebook.com/foodanddine Fall 2013 31

liquids urban bourbon trail

BY CARLA CARLTON | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

URBAN Charr’d Bourbon BOURBON

Kitchen & Lounge TRAIL

It was Derby night 2013 at Charr’d Bourbon Kitchen & Lounge in the Marriott Louisville East, and several couples — the men in suits, the women sporting flowerbedecked hats — were enjoying a prix-fixe dinner and sipping Bourbon cocktails and wine. With the race long over, the TV at the bar was tuned to a Chicago Bulls game.

Suddenly one of the women snapped to attention. “That’s Scottie Pippen!” she exclaimed, struggling to keep her voice down. Indeed, the retired Bulls star was sitting at the bar. A moment later, Julius Erving strolled through the lobby.

You won’t see NBA stars sipping a drink every time you go to Charr’d; Scottie Pippen and Dr. J were in town for the Grand Gala, a Derby event that returned this year after a four-year hiatus. But the fact that Gala organizers chose the Marriott East as the venue for their event’s revival speaks volumes about what Marriott has done to revive the old Park Inn off Hurstbourne Lane. A $30 million renovation has created what is now billed as a “Bourbon-themed hotel,” with Charr’d, which joined the Urban Bourbon Trail this summer, as the centerpiece.

“Marriott kind of lets you do your thing” in designing menus and themes, said Kristopher Thomas, assistant general manager and director of food and beverage. “They encourage you to do something that corresponds with your area and your background.”

Thomas grew up in Shively, smelling the sour mash from the Seventh Street Road distilleries every day. “So the first thing I thought was: ‘Bourbon.’ ” The hotel’s public spaces and conference areas were redecorated to evoke natural elements that go into making Bourbon, with liberal use of wood and stone and a carpet pattern that looks like the flames used to char the insides of Bourbon barrels. Other details recall specific brands that have partnered with Marriott East. Sculptured ceramic roses — more than four, but you get the idea — adorn one wall, for instance, while Maker’s Mark prints hang on another. Archival photographs recall the heyday of Louisville’s Whiskey Row. Two guest rooms have been decked out in the Bourbon theme, with eventual plans for as many as 10, Thomas said.

Marriott East had its grand opening last September and landed the Grand Gala in May through word of mouth. “The planner of the Gala and I have a mutual friend,” Thomas said. “We had hosted one of his events and he gave us rave reviews. We 32 Fall 2013 www.foodanddine.com

couldn’t have paid $30,000 for that kind of publicity. I was playing spades and dominos with Scottie Pippen, Dr. J and Ken Griffey Jr. until four in the morning. That’s something I’ll be telling my kids.”

While they were hanging out, Thomas took the opportunity to educate the tequila drinkers about the merits of Bourbon, which is also a barrel-aged spirit. “I turned them on to Basil Hayden.”

Basil is just one of the approximately 128 brands he was stocking in mid-summer. Charr’d will always carry a minimum of 80 brands, he said — which is both a nod to the minimum bottling proof for Bourbon and a way to stand apart from the Bar at BLU at the downtown Marriott, which Thomas also opened and which stocks about 50 Bourbons.

“I got BLU on the Urban Bourbon Trail, and so I wanted to be sure to get Marriott East on there too,” Thomas said.

In addition to the bar offerings, many of the dishes at Charr’d incorporate Bourbon, and the meats are smoked with wood from used Bourbon barrels. The menu is divided by dates connected to Prohibition. Appetizers, such as the Barrel Wings ($11), are listed under “before 1920”; salads are listed under “Prohibition” (“because it’s what you should do, but it’s not that much fun,” Thomas said); and entrées, such as the Maker’s Mark ribs (half rack, $14; full rack, $20) and the succulent Bardstown pork chop with shredded cabbage ($21), are “after 1933.” The cheddar biscuits that arrive before the meal are accompanied by a pat of sweet Bourbon butter.

Having Executive Chef Ryan Montgomer y, who formerly worked at Masa’s in San Francisco and most recently at Jeff Ruby’s Steakhouse at Belterra Casino, in the kitchen is one thing that

In 2008, the Louisville Convention & Visitors Bureau created the Urban Bourbon Trail, a culinary and cocktail experience, to capitalize on burgeoning interest in America’s native spirit. Since then, the number of stops has increased from seven to 27. Participating establishments must offer a minimum of 50 Bourbons and use Bourbon as an ingredient in some menu items. Ride along as we visit them all, and discover how the spirit moves them — behind the bar and in the kitchen. sets Charr’d apart from other stops on the Urban Bourbon Trail, Thomas said.

The other is that “we truly buy into the impor tance of Bourbon.” The ser vers’ 30-page training manual includes two pages of “Bourbon 101.”

Once a month, a different Bourbon vendor comes in to teach classes on his or her product to the staff.

And every morning, Thomas and his managers conduct a briefing on Charr’d’s Bourbon of the Day. Like those NBA stars, “any time someone comes in here, they can learn something” about Bourbon, Thomas said. “I think I’m pretty savvy, but with the Bourbon of the Day, I learn something every day about Bourbons I’ve been drinking for 15 years.”

Given its location in a hotel near the interstate, many of Charr’d’s patrons are travelers. It’s actively courting Bourbon travelers as a new official sponsor of the Kentucky Bourbon Trail tour, which draws hundreds of thousands of visitors each year to seven distilleries out in the state. The hotel offers a special Bourbon Package for those who really want to Charr’d Bourbon Kitchen & Lounge greets you as you enter the doors of the Marriott Louisville East. The open design showcases the signature bar at the center of the lobby (above) and one of the three sharply appointed dining areas (opposite page). (clockwise, from top-right) Tempura-fried gulf shrimp tacos; one of the 128 Bourbon selections, on the rocks; house-smoked “Barrel Wings” with a grippo rub and Bourbon gastrique; Executive Chef Ryan Montgomery; Chocolate Godiva Manhattan. www.facebook.com/foodanddine Fall 2013 33

immerse themselves in the spirit. The package ($189 Friday-Sunday; $249 Monday-Thursday) includes accommodations in one of the Bourbonthemed rooms, a flight of Bourbons and a Bourboninfused appetizer at Charr’d — and, perhaps most important, a late checkout time. “You come for the Bourbon experience, you might want to sleep in a little bit,” Thomas chuckled.

But he also intends for Charr’d to become a destination for locals, particularly residents of Jeffersontown and other points east who want to drink Bourbon but don’t want to drive downtown to do it.

“We are tr ying to bring back the hotel restaurant and lobby bar that is a main destination for in-town folks,” he says. “Back in the ’80s, that is where everyone went and had drinks. We are really trying to get back to that by having something Kentucky-related and having a property that is absolutely gorgeous. The old property kind of left a bad taste in everyone’s mouth — it had a bad rep.

We hope now that we’re on the Urban Bourbon Trail, when people are walking in to get their passports stamped, they will be like, ‘Oh my god, I did not know this happened.’ ”

Number of Bourbons: Minimum of 80; currently, 128 Most popular Bourbons: Pappy Van Winkle, Woodford Reserve Priciest shots: Pappy Van Winkle 23-year-old, $60; Angel’s Envy Cask Strength (limited edition), $50 Bourbon flights: “Run for the Roses” ($15) includes Four Roses Yellow Label, Small Batch and Single Barrel; “Small Batch Collection” ($21) features Knob Creek, Baker’s and Booker’s.

Customers can also create their own flights (price varies).

Signature Bourbon cocktails: Maker’s 46 Manhattan with Maker’s 46 Bourbon and sweet vermouth, finished with a chocolate cherry; Old Pappy Bourbon Ball, featuring Pappy 10-year-old, white creme de cocoa and a splash of Frangelico and garnished with shaved chocolate; and the Blackberry Manhattan, recipe below.

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Charr ’d’s Blackberry Manhattan 3 blackberries and 1 cherry ½ ounce Grand Marnier 1½ ounces Jim Beam Red Stag Ice In a shaker, muddle the fruit. Add the ice, Grand Marnier and Red Stag.

Shake well and strain into a martini glass. Garnish with a blackberry. (top three, clockwise from left) Grilled salmon with a Bourbon reduction and broccoli purée served with an Old Pappy Bourbon Ball; St. Louis-style ribs with Makers Mark Bourbon BBQ sauce; smoked chicken dip served with a Blackberry Manhattan. (middle two, from left) “Jimmy’s Flight” — three Jim Beam Bourbons; smoked Gerber Farms chicken with cherry truffle demi and mashed potatoes. (bottom three, from left) Bread pudding trifle; smoked pork chop with potato latke and house-made apple sauce; Kristopher Thomas, Assistant General Manager. www.facebook.com/foodanddine Fall 2013 35

about food $10 challenge

BY ASHLEE CLARK THOMPSON | PHOTOGRAPH BY DAN DRY

Sitar Indian challenge Restaurant

$10

Not your everyday buffet. Sitar delivers flavor and variety, all piping hot.

My undergraduate years sowed the seeds of my frugality. Scholarships took care of my major college expenses, but the paycheck I received from the student newspaper only covered a monthly trip to Wal-Mart and one night out at a decent restaurant (and by decent, I mean a place that had cloth instead of paper napkins). So I learned how to stretch the few dollars I had left. That meant a lot of trips to buffet restaurants.

For less than $10, buffet restaurants presented me with stainless steel rows of food that employees replenished every 10 minutes.

My favorites were the pizza buffets that filled kids’ stomachs before they hit the arcade, and Chinese buffets that gave up on specialization and offered French fries and chicken wings along with lo mein and egg rolls. In retrospect, the meals I shoveled in were greasy and reheated. But in college, quantity trumps quality when you’re on the last $15 of your residual check.

Good food shouldn’t be a luxur y. In this column, I set out to prove that it is possible to eat a high-quality, low-cost meal within Louisville’s diverse and expanding food scene. My goal is to find a meal at a local restaurant that costs $10 or less (excluding the tip), an ideal limit for those of us who are cashstrapped but have a hard time sacrificing a nice meal outside of the house.

These days, I have enough spending money to splurge on those decent restaurants with servers and cloth napkins. But I’m not above a trip through the buffet line — as long as the food tastes better than the meals I slopped on my plate in college.

Sitar Indian Restaurant offers such an option — a serve-yourself, all-you-care-to-eat lunch buffet that is the mature older sibling to the restaurants of my college years. At lunchtime, this Bardstown Road eatery forgoes a more extensive menu to instead offer a pared-down selection of Indian dishes that gives diners a nice introduction to this type of cuisine. Sitar delivers good food and attentive service for only $7.99, which makes the restaurant’s lunch buffet one of the best values in the area.

Sitar is the perfect place to escape for an hour during the work week. The bustle of Bardstown Road barely registers inside the restaurant. The lighting is dim, the music is soft and the dining room is intimate — not the atmosphere I expected at noon on a Wednesday. The environment did wonders to take my mind off of work and onto important things, like lunch.

The folks at Sitar know that the inexpensive buffet is the main draw between 11 a.m. and 3 p.m., but that doesn’t keep them from delivering excellent service. You could create a drinking game based on the attentiveness of the servers. I could barely finish a glass before I received a fresh splash of ice water. I admired this attention to detail even more when I realized that the servers were also acting as food runners, bringing piping hot dishes to the buffet line every five to 10 minutes.

In terms of temperature alone, Sitar’s lunch buffet excels over competitors. I’d grown used to expecting lukewarm food on buffets, especially when other diners don’t share my love of a particular dish and would leave it under the heat lamps to languish. At Sitar, there are no heat lamps because there is no need. The size of the buffet, the steady crowd and the fast servers create a perfect storm that results in hot food throughout lunch service.

The dishes available during my visit provided me with a delicious foray into Indian food. I filled my first plate with items that looked familiar, including the rice pulao, a yellow rice dish with peas, lentils that were served in a mesquite sauce, and slices of naan bread that were crisp with light brown edges and a thin, chewy center.

I dived into the generous vegetarian options for my second trip to the buffet line. I piled on the mixed vegetable curry, a delicious blend of lima beans, green beans, onions and carrots that was filling enough for a meat-eater like me. The creamy green appearance of a vegetarian curry called saag wasn’t pretty, but I loved the subtle spiciness that settled nicely on my tongue. This paired well with forkfuls of fragrant basmati rice.

The meat dishes I tried on my third buffet sampling were more bland than I expected from Indian food, but delightful nonetheless.The highlight of my meat plate was the chicken tikka marsala. Hunks of chicken were coated in a sunrise-colored, spicy sauce that was rich and creamy. I ended my lunch with gulab jamun, fried milk balls served chilled and coated in a sweet syrup. It was hard to keep from filling another plate with just this dessert.

Sitar Indian Restaurant provided me with a wonderful glimpse into the world of Indian food at a price that was hard to beat. The restaurant uses the buffet style to effectively deliver a fast lunch with a quality superior to that of similar establishments. The food is approachable, affordable and sure to please more than just broke college students.

The Bottom Line: Lunch buffet: $7.99 Soft drink: $1.50 Total (with tax and before tip): $10.06 Mission: Accomplished (I took pennies from the penny tray.)

Sitar Indian Restaurant | 1702 Bardstown Rd. | (502) 473-8889 www.facebook.com/foodanddine Fall 2013 37

people and places profiles

BY KATY YOCOM | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

A timeless take on French cuisine

S (above) Louis’ daily ritual includes winding the 200year-old pendulum clock he inherited from his parents. (opposite, from top) Chef/owner Louis Retailleau; the fisherman’s bouillabaisse plate, a classic from southern France; one of the restaurant’s brightly colored dining rooms.

38 Fall 2013 www.foodanddine.com

133 East Market Street New Albany, Indiana 812.944.1222

ome 4,285 miles east of New Albany, Indiana, lies the French village of Miradoux, where chef Louis Retailleau was born. Set in the agriculturally abundant Gascony region, Miradoux’s landscape is reminiscent of Kentucky or Southern Indiana: gentle hills, a river, pastures where cows graze. It was this rich setting that launched Louis, at age 14, into a life of food and a decades-long journey that led eventually to Louis Le Français, a brightly painted restaurant on New Albany’s Market Street where Louis serves as chef, owner, and de facto king.

Everyone calls him Louis — pronounced the French way, Louie. His last name is pronounced, approximately, “Ray-tay-o,” but nobody ever uses it.

To speak with Louis is to imagine you can read bits of his journey in the lines on his face. To watch him cook in the kitchen he designed — bending energetically to pull a dish from the oven, his silver hair flopping gracefully over a red bandanna — is to witness an expertise and professional verve developed over decades. (How many decades, Louis won’t say. When asked his age, he parries with wit: “I’m 52 standing up and 26 lying down.”) To taste his duck confit with cherry sauce, or his boeuf bourguignon, is to experience flavors dense and dark, rich and caramelized — classic French cookery in the hands of a master. “My mission here is to make people happy with what I do,” he says. “Food is an art. Art is infinite. If you do the same dish tomorrow, it’s a different dish.”

A slightly built man with the characteristic long French nose, Louis recounts his life in restaurants quietly, with a bit of a shrug in his voice. As he speaks, you get the sense he has seen a lot and expects to see more.

AN APPRENTICESHIP The youngest of four brothers — one who became a policeman, two who became chefs — at age 14, Louis began an apprenticeship with a friend of his father’s, in a charcuterie in the nearby town of Agen. “I used to bicycle from farm to farm with Georges,” he remembers, “and kill the pig and prep it all the way from blood sausage to ham to roast.” Next, he moved on to a charcuterie in Cahors, where the truffle is king, and from there, to Paris to work in a hotel restaurant with his brother. “My brothers were very protective of me, because I was the baby,” he recalls. “They didn’t want me to do what they did. But,” he says simply, “I did.”

In 1955, he joined the French Navy and spent two years in Morocco managing food, drinks, and lodging for officers in the war room. His next stop was London, where he spent a year in the restaurant at the famous Savoy hotel. His front- and back-of-house experiences taught him “every angle of the business,” he says. “Dishwasher, cleaning, sanitation. The customer, the food, the wine, the heat, the air conditioning, the floor, the ceiling.”

That breadth of knowledge convinced him that the best restaurant is a small one, fully within the dominion of the owner/chef.

THE LADIES OF JOY Following his stint at the Savoy, he crossed the Atlantic to spend a year in Quebec City, then seven more in New York, doing restaurant consulting. He married and moved to his wife’s native Chicago. When the John Hancock Tower opened, he worked there in banquet services.

Then, in 1970, he struck out on his own.

For his first restaurant, he chose the name Bon Appetit and a location in Calumet City, south of Chicago. “It was the worst spot you can think of,” he recalls, “where the ladies of joy were working. It was the bordello of the world, but I didn’t know.” Located in a shopping center, boasting just 32 seats, Bon Appetit had every reason to fail — and yet, it was “my biggest success. On weekends we’d have 70 people; on Saturdays, over 100.”

After six years, Louis moved to Crown Point, Indiana, and opened a new restaurant called Louis’ Bon Appetit. For thirty years he presided over that restaurant, briefly layering on a second venture when he ran Cocorico in

(above) Soupe à l’oignon gratinée — French onion soup made the way it’s done in Parisian bistros. (right) The daily catch — a fresh-caught salmon. (far right) Louis displays a bottle of white drawn from his wine cellar.

Chicago from 1992 to 1994. But in 2006, his marriage came apart. Newly divorced and at loose ends, Louis left the Midwest for San Francisco, only to return to Indiana after an unsatisfactory couple of years.

Still searching for his next endeavor, he got into his car and headed south. Interstate 65 took him to Louisville. A friend suggested he stay, since there was no competition for a French restaurant — a real French restaurant, Louis clarifies, run by an actual Frenchman.

But his search for restaurant space faltered until, in 2010, he found a space for rent in New Albany.

He hated the space. But he saw possibilities. If the restaurant was going to work, it was going to have to become Louis’ space: kitchen to dining room, heating to air conditioning, floor to ceiling. He gutted the property and spent nearly a year doing wholesale renovation. Finally, in the spring of 2011, Louis Le Français — which translates simply as “Louis the Frenchman” — opened its doors.

A LITTLE ISLAND OF FRANCE The French ambiance is palpable at Louis Le Français. Classic Parisian café chairs seat just shy of 60 guests in the intimate dining room. Every evening features live guitar music.

Beau tifully shot black-and-white photos of French landmarks line the walls. And everywhere, there’s the Gallic rooster — the countr y’s un official symbol — painted in bright strokes of red, blue, and yellow. Everything is French: “The food, the décor, the ambi ance,” Louis says. The menu features classic dishes such as beef Bourguignon, sweetbreads (surprisingly popular), and cassou let.

He has taken pains to provide a modestly priced lunch, at which five entrées cost less than $10 and spinach crêpes are only $7.

“It’s a very simple thing,” Louis says of his carefully constructed menu, “but simplicity is difficult to do.”

Contributing to the French atmosphere are the people who work there. “They have to think French, act French, talk French, feel French,” Louis says. And indeed, when a server, (top) Cherry clafouti, a homey French dessert, halfway between a pudding and a pie. (center) Preserving an age-old tradition, some dishes at Louis’ are still served under gleaming silver food domes adorned with 150-year-old figurines. (left) Cassoulet, a dish that dates back to the fourteenth century, prepared at Louis’ as you’d find in the city of Miradoux, in the high, wild plateau of the Massif Central. www.facebook.com/foodanddine Fall 2013 41

who hails from seven miles outside Paris, notices a sudden rainshower pattering down outside, she marks it with an unselfconscious “ooh-la-la.”

“It’s my little island of France in here,” Louis continues. “This is French soil. It could be anywhere” — meaning New Albany, Chicago or maybe the moon — “but it will still be France.”

So it’s ironic that one of Louis’ biggest challenges is a geographic one — the mighty Ohio River and the Sherman Minton bridge. For too long, many Louisvillians have treated the river as closed border. But with the emergence over the past few years of an increasingly eclectic restaurant scene — to which Louis brings needed ethnic diversity — and continued interest in the renovation of New Albany’s rich architectural heritage, that border might be dissolving. Louis knows it’s up to him to try to dissolve that psychological barrier between his restaurant and potential customers. “There must be a reason why they cross the bridge,” he acknowledges.

“I work hard in order to prove to people, yes, you can have dinner [in New Albany] and enjoy it. As a motto, I say: ‘You don’t need to have a passport to go to France.’ ” A PERSONAL SPACE As you talk to Louis, you realize his dining room is not just intimate, it’s personal, reaching back to his roots in Miradoux. The large, 200-year-old pendulum clock hanging in the front dining room belonged to his parents, whose pictures also hang on the wall. When Louis winds that clock, it’s a ritual, and the sound of its chimes can bring tears to his eyes. “I’m a little bit emotional when it comes to that,” he admits.

About the only non-French element of the restaurant is the American frontof-house manager, Betty Weber, a one-time French teacher. Weber runs the front of house with an efficient hand and fusses over Louis a bit, making sure he stops by a table to greet special customers and insisting that a visitor learn about the award the French government bestowed on Louis in the 1990s for representing French culture in America. The discussion about the award leads Louis to disappear into the kitchen, from which he emerges with an oversized, stuffed-tobursting scrapbook. Soon the particulars of the award are forgotten as Louis thumbs through pictures of his clients, his restaurants, and most of all, his children, now grown. Seemingly every note or card he’s ever received from son Sascha and daughter Natalie is lovingly displayed in the album, and Louis lingers over the notes, each worded differently but all conveying the message, “I love you, Papa.”

But it’s a busy night at the restaurant, and reluctantly he closes the scrapbook to return to his kitchen. He knows the path he has set for himself is not the easiest.

The Gallic way of dining — the leisurely pace, the focus on quality as opposed to the value-meal approach — runs counter to many American diners’ expectations.

His mission, quite simply, is to persuade his guests of the abundant pleasures of the French culinary tradition. When customers tell him they feel as if they’ve been transported to France, Louis is happy. “These,” he says, “are my people.” F&D

(opposite page) Poulets aux olives — Olive chicken, a French peasant dish inspired perhaps by the cuisine of Morocco. (top) Tucked next to the kitchen, the cozy bar provides patrons a front-row seat to the kitchen’s goings-on. (center) Escargot — in the shell, with parsley butter. (left) Crêpe Suzette — flamed tableside. www.facebook.com/foodanddine Fall 2013 43

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WHY SHOP LOCAL? What was once the only thing — patronizing locally-owned businesses — is now the “in” thing. Focusing your consumer dollars on local, one-of-a-kind businesses supports the unique character of the Louisville community.

That’s the philosophy.

The practicality is this: Studies show that three times as much money spent at local businesses stays circulating in the local economy as money spent at national chains. That’s because local businesses support each other.

Local businesses hire and promote your friends and neighbors. And local businesses support community arts and charitable causes at twice the level as do chains.

So — buying local is good for the economy, good for jobs, good for community karma.

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dining guide Cuisine Style African..............................72 Asian/Chinese...................72 Asian/Filipino ....................73 Asian/Japanese ................73 Asian/Korean ....................74 Asian/Mongolian ...............74 Asian/Thai ........................74 Asian/Vietnamese .............75 Bar & Grill .........................69 Barbecue ..........................68 Bistro/Contemporary.........55 Cafés................................57

Cafeterias .........................63 Cajun/Creole.....................78 Caribbean/Cuban/Latin .....78 Casual Dining ...................60 Coffee/Tea House..............80 Desserts/Bakery ...............80 Entertainment Dining ........63 European/Bosnian.............75 European/French ..............75 European/German.............76 European/Irish ..................76 European/Italian................76 European/Spanish.............76

Fine Dining .......................50 Home Style/Southern ........62 Indian ...............................77 Mexican............................78 Microbreweries.................71 Middle Eastern..................77 Pizza.................................64 Sandwich/Deli ..................66 Seafood ............................58 Southwest/Tex Mex...........80 Steakhouse.......................59 Upscale Casual .................51

Area Maps begin on page 82 Alphabetical Index RESTAURANT

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2 Dips & A Shake 211 Clover Lane 30 Red Sports Saloon 321 Deli 60 West Bistro 610 Magnolia A Nice Restaurant A Taste of China Abyssinia Achille’s Pizza Addis Grill Adobo Mexican Restaurant Adrienne & Co. Bakery Café Adrienne’s Italian Against The Grain Brewery Al Nuur Al Watan Alley Cat Café Amici Amshoff’s Fish Inn Again Amy Z’s Anchorage Café Angilo’s Pizza Angio’s Restaurant Annie Cafe Annie May’s Sweets Café Annie’s Pizza Ann’s by the River Another Place Anselmo’s Italian Bistro Apocalypse Brew Works Applebee’s Arata Sushi Argo Sons Coffee Arni’s Pizza Arno’s Pizza Aroma Café Asahi Japanese Asian Buffet Asian Moon Asiatique Aspen Creek Restaurant Atrium Café August Moon Austin’s BD’s Mongolian Grill B3Q BBQ Baby D’s Bagels & Deli Backyard Burger The Bakery Banh Mi Hero Bank Street Brewhouse Barbara Lee’s Kitchen The Bard’s Town Basa Modern Vietnamese Baxter Station Baxter’s 942 Bar & Grill Bazos Mexican Grill Bean Street Coffee Co. 46 Fall 2013 www.foodanddine.com

RESTAURANTS LISTED ALPHABETICALLY, FOLLOWED

BY THE PAGE NUMBER OF ITS REVIEW, THE CUISINE STYLE, AND THE CORRESPONDING MAP NUMBER(S). [ ] DENOTES UNMAPPED MULTIPLE LOCATIONS. MAP #

80 Desserts/Bakery 1 50 Fine Dining 3 69 Bar & Grill 11 66 Sandwich/Deli 1 51 Upscale Casual 3 50 Fine Dining 13 60 Casual Dining 14, 16 72 Asian/Chinese 1 72 African 1 64 Pizza 16 72 African 1 78 Mexican 11 80 Desserts/Bakery 16 76 European/Italian 16 71 Microbreweries 1 72 African 13 77 Middle Eastern 4 57 Cafés 5 76 European/Italian 13 58 Seafood 11 69 Bar & Grill 5 57 Cafés 5 64 Pizza 13 64 Pizza 4 75 Asian/Vietnamese 13 81 Desserts/Bakery 3 64 Pizza 1, 12 63 Cafeterias 16 66 Sandwich/Deli 1 76 European/Italian 2 71 Microbreweries 2 60 Casual Dining [6] 73 Asian/Japanese 10 80 Coffee/Tea House 6 64 Pizza 14 64 Pizza 4 57 Cafés 14 73 Asian/Japanese 3 72 Asian/Chinese 4, 14 72 Asian/Chinese 4 52 Upscale Casual 2 60 Casual Dining 11 55 Bistro/Contemporary 5 72 Asian/Chinese 2 52 Upscale Casual 7 74 Asian/Mongolian 6 68 Barbecue 14 66 Sandwich/Deli 2 66 Sandwich/Deli 6 81 Desserts/Bakery 4 75 Asian/Vietnamese 2 71 Microbreweries 14 62 Home Style/Southern 2 63 Entertainment Dining 2 52 Upscale Casual 2 55 Bistro/Contemporary 2 69 Bar & Grill 2 78 Mexican 3, 6 80 Coffee/Tea House 14

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Bearno’s Pizza 64 Pizza [12] Beef O’Brady’s 69 Bar & Grill 5, 12, 13, 14 Beijing Grill & Sushi Bar 73 Asian/Japanese 14 Bela’s Café 72 African 13 Bendoya Sushi Bar 73 Asian/Japanese 1 Big Al’s Beeritaville 69 Bar & Grill 2 Big Momma’s Soul Kitchen 62 Home Style/Southern 1 Bistro 1860 Wine Bar 55 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Bistro 301 55 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Bistro 42 76 European/Italian 10 Bistro Le Relais 75 European/French 4 The Bistro 63 Cafeterias 3 BJ’s Restaurant & Brewhouse 60 Casual Dining 5 Blackstone Grille 52 Upscale Casual 10 The Blind Pig 55 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Bloom’s Lunch Café 57 Cafés 3 BLU Mediterranean Grille 52 Upscale Casual 1 Blue Dog Bakery 57 Cafés 2 Blue Horse Café 60 Casual Dining 13 Bluegrass BBQ 68 Barbecue 3 Bluegrass Brewing Co. 71 Microbreweries 1, 3 Bluegrass Burgers 60 Casual Dining 3 Bluegrass Café 57 Cafés 2 Boardwalk Fresh Burgers 66 Sandwich/Deli 16 Bombay Grill 77 Indian 5 Bonefish Grill 58 Seafood 5 Bonnie & Clyde’s Pizza 64 Pizza 12 Boombozz Famous Pizza 64 Pizza 3 Boombozz Pizza Bistro 64 Pizza 6 Boombozz Pizza & Taphouse 64 Pizza 2, 5, 15 Boomer’s Café 57 Cafés 1 Bootleg Barbecue Co. 68 Barbecue 11, 13 Borromeo’s Pizza 64 Pizza 13 Bosna-Mak 75 European/Bosnian 4 Bourbons Bistro 55 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Brandon’s BBQ & Pizza 68 Barbecue 5 Brasserie Provence 75 European/French 5 Bravo!

52 Upscale Casual 3 Breadworks 81 Desserts/Bakery 2, 5, 7 The Brewery 69 Bar & Grill 2 Brian’s Deli 66 Sandwich/Deli 1 Brickhouse Tavern & Tap 60 Casual Dining 6 Bristol Bar & Grille 52 Upscale Casual 1,2,5,10,13,16 Brix Wine Bar 55 Bistro/Contemporary 8 Brownie’s Grille & Bar 69 Bar & Grill 5 Bruegger’s Bagels 66 Sandwich/Deli 3 Buca Di Beppo 76 European/Italian 6 Buckhead Mountain Grill 60 Casual Dining 4, 16 Buck’s 50 Fine Dining 13 Bud’s Tavern & Barbecue 69 Bar & Grill 12 Buffalo Wild Wings 69 Bar & Grill 2,3,5,6,8,12,15 Bungalow Joe’s 69 Bar & Grill 11 Bunz Restaurant 60 Casual Dining 2 Burger Boy 66 Sandwich/Deli 13 Burning Bush Grille 77 Middle Eastern 10 Butcher’s Best 66 Sandwich/Deli 10 Café 27 57 Cafés 14 Café 360 77 Middle Eastern 2 Café Aroma 78 Middle Eastern 2

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Café At Main Street Café Fraiche Café Lou Lou Café Magnolia Café Mimosa Café Montagu Café Thuy Van Caffe Classico Cake Flour California Pizza Kitchen Captain’s Quarters Cardinal Hall of Fame Café Carrabba’s Italian Grille Casa Fiesta Cast Iron Steakhouse Cat Box Deli Cattleman’s Roadhouse Caviar Japanese Restaurant Cellar Door Chocolates Champions Grill Champions Sports Bar Champp’s Americana Charim Korean Restaurant Charlestown Pizza Co. Charlestown Train Station Charr’d Bourbon Kitchen Check’s Café Cheddar Box Café Cheddar’s Casual Café Cheer King Star The Cheesecake Factory Cheezy’s Pizza Chef Maria’s Greek Deli Chez Seneba African The Chicken House Chicken King Chili’s China 1 China Buffet China Café China Castle China Garden China Inn China King China Taste Chinese Chef Chinese Express Chipotle Mexican Grill Chocolate Martini Bar Choi’s Asian Food Market Chong Garden Chopshop Salads Chopsticks Chopsticks House Christopher’s Chung King Chuy’s City Café Clarksville Seafood Clifton’s Pizza Clucker’s Wings Coach Lamp Coals Artisan Pizza Coffee Crossing Come Back Inn The Comfy Cow Copper Cupcake Corbett’s ‘an American place’ Corner Café Cottage Café Cottage Inn Crave Café & Catering Cravings a la Carte Creekside Outpost & Café Cricket’s Café Crystal Chinese Cuban Flavor Culver’s Cumberland Brews Cunningham’s The Cupcake Shoppe D’Nalley’s Restaurant Dakshin Indian Restaurant DaLat’s Gateaux & Bakery Dancing Sushi Danish Express Pastries Danny Mac’s Pasta & Pizza Dave & Peg’s Copper Kettle Day’s Espresso De La Torre’s Decca Deckers Grilled Sandwiches Del Frisco’s Derby Café Derby City BBQ Derby Dinner Playhouse Desserts By Helen Devino’s Diamond Pub & Billiards Difabio’s Casapela DiOrio’s Pizza & Pub Dish On Market Ditto’s Grill Dizzy Whizz Drive-In Doc Crow’s Dooley’s Bagels Double Dragon Double Dragon II Double Dragon 9 Down One Bourbon Bar DP UpDogs Dragon King’s Daughter

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57 Cafés 6 58 Cafés 7 55 Bistro/Contemporary 2,3 60 Casual Dining 1 75 Asian/Vietnamese 2 58 Cafés 13 75 Asian/Vietnamese 13 55 Bistro/Contemporary 2 81 Desserts/Bakery 1 64 Pizza 5 60 Casual Dining 10 60 Casual Dining 13 76 European/Italian 5 78 Mexican 8 59 Steakhouse 10, 16 66 Sandwich/Deli 1 59 Steakhouse 6, 13 52 Upscale Casual 1 81 Desserts/Bakery 1 60 Casual Dining 16 69 Bar & Grill 1 69 Bar & Grill 3 74 Asian/Korean 3 64 Pizza 16 58 Seafood 16 52 Upscale Casual 6 62 Home Style/Southern 1 58 Cafés 3 60 Casual Dining 8, 13, 15 72 Asian/Chinese 1 52 Upscale Casual 3 64 Pizza 16 66 Cafés 3 72 African 13 62 Home Style/Southern 14 62 Home Style/Southern 1 60 Casual Dining 4, 5, 8, 13 72 Asian/Chinese 3 72 Asian/Chinese 15 72 Asian/Chinese 13 72 Asian/Chinese 12 72 Asian/Chinese 13 72 Asian/Chinese 13 72 Asian/Chinese 6 72 Asian/Chinese 16 72 Asian/Chinese 13 72 Asian/Chinese 12 78 Mexican 1 60 Casual Dining 5 73 Asian/Japanese 5 72 Asian/Chinese 12 60 Casual Dining 1, 3 72 Asian/Chinese 1 72 Asian/Chinese 1 60 Casual Dining 2 72 Asian/Chinese 1 80 Southwest/Tex Mex 3,15 58 Cafés 1 58 Seafood 15 64 Pizza 2 70 Bar & Grill 13, 14, 16 60 Casual Dining 1 64 Pizza 3 80 Coffee/Tea House 14 76 European/Italian 1, 16 81 Desserts/Bakery 2,5,13 81 Desserts/Bakery 8 50 Fine Dining 8 53 Upscale Casual 5 62 Home Style/Southern 5 62 Home Style/Southern 13 58 Cafés 2 63 Cafeterias 1 58 Cafés 14 58 Cafés 15 72 Asian/Chinese 1 78 Caribbean/Cuban/Latin 11 61 Casual Dining 6 71 Microbreweries 2 61 Casual Dining 1, 10 81 Desserts/Bakery 3 62 Home Style/Southern 1 77 Indian 11 81 Desserts/Bakery 13 73 Asian/Japanese 8 66 Sandwich/Deli 3 65 Pizza 13 62 Home Style/Southern 5 80 Coffee/Tea House 2 76 European/Spanish 2 53 Upscale Casual 1 61 Casual Dining 6 59 Steakhouse 3 58 Cafés 13 68 Barbecue 13 63 Entertainment Dining 16 81 Desserts/Bakery 2 66 Sandwich/Deli 1 70 Bar & Grill 2, 3 76 European/Italian 2 65 Pizza 2, 3 56 Bistro/Contemporary 1 56 Bistro/Contemporary 2 66 Sandwich/Deli 1 53 Upscale Casual 1 66 Sandwich/Deli 7 72 Asian/Chinese 1, 2 72 Asian/Chinese 8,11,12,13 72 Asian/Chinese 6 70 Bar & Grill 1 66 Sandwich/Deli 14 73 Asian/Japanese 2, 14

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Drake’s 70 Bar & Grill 3, 8 Dre’Lynn’s Soul Food 62 Home Style/Southern 13 Dunkin’ Donuts 81 Desserts/Bakery 2 DuValle Grub N Scrub 68 Barbecue 13 Eagle Lake & Restaurant 58 Seafood 12 Earth Friends Café 58 Cafés 1, 14 Eastern House 72 Asian/Chinese 12 Eddie Merlot’s 59 Steakhouse 1 Eggroll Machine 72 Asian/Chinese 2 Eiderdown 76 European/German 13 Einstein Brothers Bagels 66 Sandwich/Deli 1 El Burrito de Oro 78 Mexican 15 El Camino 78 Mexican 2 El Caporal 78 Mexican 4, 6, 15 El Mariachi 78 Mexican 5 El Marlin Seafood 78 Mexican 6 El Molcajete 78 Mexican 13 El Mundo 78 Mexican 2 El Nopal 79 Mexican [19] El Ranchero 79 Mexican 4 El Rincon Cuban Restaurant 78 Caribbean/Cuban/Latin 13 El Sombrero 79 Mexican 16 El Tarasco 79 Mexican 3, 5, 6, 13 El Tenampa Bar & Grill 78 Caribbean/Cuban/Latin 12 El Torazo 79 Mexican 6 El Torito de Jalisco 79 Mexican 13 El Toro Cantina & Grill 79 Mexican 5 Emma Lou’s Café 58 Cafés 2 Emperor of China 72 Asian/Chinese 7 Empress of China 72 Asian/Chinese 4 The English Grill 50 Fine Dining 1 Equus 53 Upscale Casual 3 Erika’s German Restaurant 76 European/German 6 Ermin’s Bakery & Café 58 Cafés 1 Exchange Pub + Kitchen 56 Bistro/Contemporary 14 The Falafel House 77 Middle Eastern 2 Famous Dave’s Bar-B-Que 68 Barbecue 6, 15 Famous Mike’s Steak & Lemonade 61 Casual Dining 13 Fat Daddy’s Pizza 65 Pizza 13 Fat Jimmy’s 65 Pizza 5 FeastBBQ 68 Barbecue 14 The Feed Bag 66 Sandwich/Deli 3 Fiesta Time Amigos 79 Mexican 11 Fiesta Time Mexican Grill 79 Mexican 8 Fire Fresh Bar B Q 68 Barbecue 1, 12 Firehouse Subs 66 Sandwich/Deli 5 First Wok 72 Asian/Chinese 12 Fish-Fry House 58 Seafood 2 The Fish House 58 Seafood 2, 5 The Fishery 59 Seafood 3, 5 The Fishery Station 59 Seafood 11 Five Guys Burgers & Fries 61 Casual Dining 8, 14 Flanagans Ale House 70 Bar & Grill 2 Food 4 Ur Soul 63 Home Style/Southern 1 Forty Acres & A Mule 63 Home Style/Southern 13 Four King’s Café 70 Bar & Grill 4 Four Pegs Beer Lounge 56 Bistro/Contemporary 13 Four Sisters 75 Asian/Vietnamese 2 Franco’s Restaurant 63 Home Style/Southern 12 Frankfort Ave. Beer Depot 68 Barbecue 3 Frascelli’s N.Y. Deli & Pizza 66 Sandwich/Deli 8 Frolio’s Pizza 65 Pizza 13 Frontier Diner 63 Home Style/Southern 12 The Fudgery 81 Desserts/Bakery 1 Fuji Asian Bistro 73 Asian/Japanese 12 Fuji Japanese Steakhouse 73 Asian/Japanese 5, 8 Funmi’s African Restaurant 72 African 4 FX Pizza 65 Pizza 14 Game 61 Casual Dining 2 Garage Bar 61 Casual Dining 1 Gary’s On Spring 53 Upscale Casual 2 Gasthaus 76 European/German 7 Gelato Gilberto 81 Desserts/Bakery 8 Genghis Grill 74 Asian/Mongolian 8 Gerstle’s Place 70 Bar & Grill 3 Ghyslain 75 European/French 1, 8 Gigi’s Cupcakes 81 Desserts/Bakery 6 Golden Buddha 72 Asian/Chinese 13 Golden Corral 63 Home Style/Southern 4,13,15 Golden Palace 72 Asian/Chinese 13 Golden Star Chinese 72 Asian/Chinese 13 Golden Wall 72 Asian/Chinese 13 Goose Creek Diner 61 Casual Dining 8 Gordon Biersch Brewery 72 Microbreweries 1 Grady’s Burgers & Wings 61 Casual Dining 13 Granville Inn 70 Bar & Grill 13 Grape Leaf 77 Middle Eastern 2 Great American Grill 70 Bar & Grill 13 Great Harvest Bread Co. 81 Desserts/Bakery 5 Great Life Café 66 Sandwich/Deli 6, 8, 15 Great Wall 72 Asian/Chinese 2 Great Wok 72 Asian/Chinese 13 Green Leaf Vegetarian 61 Casual Dining 13 Greg’s BBQ Joint 68 Barbecue 14 Guaca-Mole 79 Mexican 5 Habana Blues Tapas 78 Caribbean/Cuban/Latin 14 Hall’s Cafeteria 63 Cafeterias 2 Hammerheads 56 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Hanabi Japanese Restaurant 73 Asian/Japanese 10 Happy China 72 Asian/Chinese 6 Happy Dragon 72 Asian/Chinese 6 Hard Rock Café 56 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Harley’s Hardwoodz BBQ 68 Barbecue 16 Harvest 53 Upscale Casual 1 Havana Rumba 78 Caribbean/Cuban/Latin 3,5 Havana Rumba Express 78 Caribbean/Cuban/Latin 2 Hawksview Gallery 53 Upscale Casual 13 Hazelwood Restaurant 63 Home Style/Southern 12 Heart & Soy 73 Asian/Japanese 2 Heine Brothers Coffee 80 Coffee/Tea House [13] Heitzman Bakery & Deli 81 Desserts/Bakery 5 Henry’s Place 53 Upscale Casual 7 www.facebook.com/foodanddine Fall 2013 47

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Hibachi Sushi Buffet Hickory House BBQ Highland Coffee Co. Highland Morning Highlands Taproom Grill Hiko A Mon Sushi Bar Hill Street Fish Fry Hilltop Tavern Hitching Post Inn Hobknobb Roasting Co. Holy Grale Home Run Burgers & Fries Homemade Pie Kitchen Hometown Buffet Hometown Pizza Honey Creme Donut Shop Honeybaked Café Hong Kong Chinese Hong Kong Fast Food Hoops Grill and Sports Bar Hooters Howl at the Moon Hunan Wok Ichiban Samurai IHOP Incredible Dave’s Indi’s Restaurant The International Mall Iries Caribbean Café The Irish Exit The Irish Rover Iroquois Pizza J. Alexander’s J. Graham’s Café J. Gumbo’s J. Harrods Jack Binion’s Steakhouse Jack Fry’s Jack’s Lounge Jackson’s Seafood Jade Palace Jamba Juice Jane’s Cafeteria Jasmin Bakery Jasmine Jason’s Deli Java Brewing Co. Jazzyblu Jeff Ruby’s Steakhouse Jersey’s Café Jersey Mike’s Subs Jimmy John’s Sub Shop Joe & Kathy’s Place Joe Huber Restaurant Joe’s Crab Shack Joe’s O.K. Bayou Joe’s Older Than Dirt John O’Bryan’s Tavern Johnny Brusco’s Pizza Johnny V’s JR’s Pub Jucy’s Smokehouse Jumbo Buffet Kaelin’s Coffeehouse Kailana Sushi Kalisimbi Bar & Grill Kansai Japanese Rest.

Karem’s Kashmir Indian Kayrouz Café Kenna’s Korner Kern’s Korner Khalil’s King Wok Kingfish King’s Fried Chicken Kobe Japanese Steak Koreana II KT’s Kum’s Kafe La Bamba La Bocca La Bocca Pizzeria La Bodega La Carreta La Coop: Bistro à Vins La Gallo Rosso Bistro La Hacienda Guadalajara La Popular La Que La Rosita Taqueria La Sierra Lancaster’s Cafeteria Las Gorditas Lee’s Korean Legend’s Lemongrass Café Lenny’s Sub Shop The Lighthouse Lil’ Cheezers Lilly’s Limestone Ling Ling Little Caesar’s Pizza Little India Café Little Jerusalem Logan’s Roadhouse Lolitas Tacos Inc. Longhorn Steakhouse Lonnie’s Taste Of Chicago Los Aztecas Lotsa Pasta 48 Fall 2013 www.foodanddine.com

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72 Asian/Chinese 11 68 Barbecue 13 80 Coffee/Tea House 2 58 Cafés 2 70 Bar & Grill 2 73 Asian/Japanese 5 59 Seafood 13 70 Bar & Grill 2 70 Bar & Grill 11 80 Coffee/Tea House 14 56 Bistro/Contemporary 2 61 Casual Dining 3, 5, 6, 13 81 Desserts [9] 63 Home Style/Southern 6,3 65 Pizza 7 81 Desserts/Bakery 14 66 Sandwich/Deli 3, 11, 14 72 Asian/Chinese 14 72 Asian/Chinese 13 70 Bar & Grill 13 61 Casual Dining 3,13,12,15,16 64 Entertainment Dining 1 72 Asian/Chinese 11 73 Asian/Japanese 6 61 Casual Dining 6, 15 64 Entertainment Dining 8 63 Home Style/Southern 1,3,13,16 76 European/Italian 1 78 Caribbean/Cuban/Latin 16 76 European/Irish 14 76 European/Irish 2, 7 65 Pizza 13 53 Upscale Casual 3 58 Cafés 1 78 Cajun/Creole 1,2,5,6 53 Upscale Casual 10 50 Fine Dining 14 50 Fine Dining 2 56 Bistro/Contemporary 3 59 Seafood 14 72 Asian/Chinese 5 58 Cafés 1 63 Cafeterias 4 81 Desserts/Bakery 4 72 Asian/Chinese 5 66 Sandwich/Deli 3, 5 80 Coffee/Tea House 2,8,10 56 Bistro/Contemporary 1 59 Steakhouse 1 70 Bar & Grill 15 66 Sandwich/Deli 5, 6, 8 66 Sandwich/Deli [9] 61 Casual Dining 12 64 Entertainment Dining 14 59 Seafood 1 78 Cajun/Creole 6 61 Casual Dining 5 70 Bar & Grill 12 65 Pizza 8 65 Pizza 6 70 Bar & Grill 14 68 Barbecue 5 72 Asian/Chinese 6 80 Coffee/Tea House 2 73 Asian/Japanese 11 72 African 13 73 Asian/Japanese 6, 15 61 Casual Dining 8 77 Indian 2 58 Cafés 3 65 Pizza 8 61 Casual Dining 2 70 Bar & Grill 12 72 Asian/Chinese 3 59 Seafood 6, 7, 16 63 Home Style/Southern 13 73 Asian/Japanese 16 74 Asian/Korean 13 54 Upscale Casual 2 63 Home Style/Southern 13 79 Mexican 2 76 European/Italian 14 65 Pizza 14 76 European/Spanish 2 79 Mexican 13 75 European/French 1 76 European/Italian 2 79 Mexican 13 79 Mexican 13 75 Asian/Vietnamese 2 79 Mexican 5, 13, 15 79 Mexican 11 63 Cafeterias 15 79 Mexican 11 74 Asian/Korean 13 61 Casual Dining 14 75 Asian/Vietnamese 5 67 Sandwich/Deli 4 70 Bar & Grill 16 67 Sandwich/Deli 2 51 Fine Dining 2 51 Fine Dining 5 72 Asian/Chinese 5 65 Pizza 5, 6, 8, 11, 13, 14, 16 77 Indian 4 77 Middle Eastern 13 59 Steakhouse 3, 6, 12, 15 79 Mexican 13 59 Steakhouse 6, 8, 13, 15 67 Sandwich/Deli 2, 13 79 Mexican 1, 5, 10 67 Sandwich/Deli 3

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Loui Loui’s Detroit Pizza 65 Pizza 6 Louis Le Francais 75 European/French 14 Louisville Pizza Co. 65 Pizza 6 Louisville Tea Co. 80 Coffee/Tea House 5 Luigi’s 65 Pizza 1 Ma Zerellas 65 Pizza 15 Maa Sha Allah 72 African 4 Main Eatery 67 Sandwich/Deli 1 Main Street Café 67 Sandwich/Deli 1 Mai’s Thai Restaurant 74 Asian/Thai 16 Majid’s St. Matthews 56 Bistro/Contemporary 3 Maker’s Mark Lounge 54 Upscale Casual 1 Mango’s Bar & Grill 79 Mexican 6, 13 Manhattan Grill 61 Casual Dining 1 Manny & Merle 56 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Marco’s Pizza 65 Pizza 14 Marketplace Restaurant 56 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Mark’s Feed Store 68 Barbecue 2, 5, 11, 12, 14 Marlyce’s Place 81 Desserts/Bakery 15 Martini Italian Bistro 76 European/Italian 8 Masa Japanese 73 Asian/Japanese 5 Match Cigar Bar 56 Bistro/Contemporary 16 Mayan Café 79 Mexican 1 McAlister’s Deli 67 Sandwich/Deli [9] Mellow Mushroom 65 Pizza 3, 5 The Melting Pot 54 Upscale Casual 6 Meridian Café 58 Cafés 3 Mexican Fiesta 79 Mexican 4 Mexico Tipico 79 Mexican 12 Mexico Viejo 79 Mexican 2 Mikato Japanese Steakhouse 73 Asian/Japanese 3 Mike Linnig’s 59 Seafood 12 Mike’s Tavern 71 Bar & Grill 14 MilkWood 51 Fine Dining 1 Mimi’s Café 61 Casual Dining 5 Mirage Mediterranean Grill 77 Middle Eastern 13 Miss C’s Kitchen & Pantry 63 Home Style/Southern 1,2 Mitchell’s Fish Market 59 Seafood 8 Moe’s Southwest Grill 80 Southwest/Tex Mex 3,6,8,11,15 Mojito Tapas Restaurant 76 European/Spanish 7 Molly Malone’s 76 European/Irish 2, 3 Momma’s Mustard, Pickles & BBQ 68 Barbecue 3 The Monkey Wrench 61 Casual Dining 2 More Shenanigan’s 76 European/Irish 4 Morris Deli & Catering 67 Sandwich/Deli 1, 2 Morton’s of Chicago 59 Steakhouse 1 Mr. Gattis 65 Pizza 5, 12, 13, 15 Mrs. Potter’s Coffee 80 Coffee/Tea House 1 Mt. Fuji 73 Asian/Japanese 13 Mucho Queso Pizzeria 65 Pizza 2 Mulligan’s Pub and Grill 61 Casual Dining 2 Mussel & Burger Bar 56 Bistro/Contemporary 6 My Favorite Muffin 81 Desserts/Bakery 5 My Old KY Dinner Train 64 Entertainment Dining 13 NamNam Café 75 Asian/Vietnamese 3 Nana’s Country Kitchen 63 Home Style/Southern 12 Nancy’s Bagel Box 67 Sandwich/Deli 1 Nancy’s Bagel Grounds 67 Sandwich/Deli 2 Napa River Grill 54 Upscale Casual 5 Neil & Patty’s Fireside Grill 61 Casual Dining 14 New Albanian Brewing Co. 65 Pizza 14 New Albany Roadhouse 61 Casual Dining 14 New China 73 Asian/Chinese 5 New Direction Bar & Grill 71 Bar & Grill 8 Nonnie’s Kitchen 58 Cafés 5 Nord’s Bakery 81 Desserts/Bakery 13 North End Café 56 Bistro/Contemporary 2 O’Charley’s 62 Casual Dining 3,6,8,13,12,15 O’Dolly’s 63 Home Style/Southern 13 O’Shea’s Irish Pub 76 European/Irish 2 The Oakroom 51 Fine Dining 1 Oasis Sushi & Soul 73 Asian/Japanese 13 Oishii Sushi 73 Asian/Japanese 4 Old 502 Winery 56 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Old Chicago Pasta & Pizza 65 Pizza 6, 8 Old Spaghetti Factory 76 European/Italian 1 Old Stone Inn 54 Upscale Casual 5 Ole Hickory Pit BBQ 68 Barbecue 11 O-Line Sports Grill 71 Bar & Grill 8 The Olive Garden 76 European/Italian 6,8,11,15 Ollie’s Trolley 67 Sandwich/Deli 1 Onion Restaurant & Tea House 73 Asian/Chinese 14 Orange Clover Kitchen 58 Cafés 16 Oriental House 73 Asian/Chinese 3 Oriental Star 73 Asian/Chinese 13 Original Impellizzeri’s 65 Pizza 1, 2, 10 Osaka Sushi Bar 73 Asian/Japanese 1, 2 Otto’s Café 62 Casual Dining 1 Outback Steakhouse 59 Steakhouse 3,8,11,13,15 P. F. Chang’s China Bistro 54 Upscale Casual 5 Palermo Viejo 78 Caribbean/Cuban/Latin 2 Panda Chinese 73 Asian/Chinese 10 Panda Express 73 Asian/Chinese 6, 15 Panera Bread Co. 67 Sandwich/Deli [9] Papa John’s 65 Pizza [30] Papa Murphy’s Pizza 65 Pizza 3,4,5,8,11,12,14,15,16 Papalino’s NY Pizzeria 65 Pizza 2 Passtime Fish House 59 Seafood 6 Patrick O’Shea’s 76 European/Irish 1 Pat’s Steak House 59 Steakhouse 2 Paul’s Fruit Market 67 Sandwich/Deli 3, 4, 5, 7 Pearl 75 Asian/Vietnamese 14 Peking City Bistro 73 Asian/Chinese 5 Penn Station 67 Sandwich/Deli [17] Peppers Bar and Grill 62 Casual Dining 1 Perfetto Pizza 65 Pizza 6 Perkfection 80 Coffee/Tea House 16 Pesto’s Italian 76 European/Italian 1 Petra Mediterranean 77 Middle Eastern 4 Philly Steak & Burger 62 Casual Dining 2 Pho Binh Minh 75 Asian/Vietnamese 13 Piccadilly Cafeteria 63 Cafeterias 6

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Pina Fiesta Mexican Grill 79 Mexican 12 Pink Baron BBQ 68 Barbecue 16 Pit Stop Bar-B-Que 68 Barbecue 5 Pita Delights 77 Middle Eastern 1 Pita Hut 77 Middle Eastern 2 Pita Pit 77 Middle Eastern 6 Pizza King 65 Pizza 14, 16 Pizza Place 66 Pizza 4 Please & Thank You 80 Coffee/Tea House 2 Pleasure Ridge Place 66 Pizza 12 Plehn’s Bakery 81 Desserts/Bakery 3 Police Donuts 81 Desserts/Bakery 5 Ponderosa Steakhouse 59 Steakhouse 13 Porcini 76 European/Italian 2 Potbelly Sandwich Shop 67 Sandwich/Deli 1 Proof On Main 54 Upscale Casual 1 Puccini’s Smiling Teeth 66 Pizza 3 Puerto Vallarta 80 Mexican 11, 14, 16 Pupuseria y Taqueria 78 Caribbean/Cuban/Latin 13 Qdoba Mexican Grill 80 Mexican [16] Quad Café 62 Casual Dining 16 Queen of Sheba 72 African 1, 4 Queue Café 58 Cafés 1 Quick Wok 73 Asian/Chinese 1 Quill’s Coffee 80 Coffee/Tea House 2, 13, 14 Quizno’s Subs 67 Sandwich/Deli [7] Rafferty’s of Louisville 62 Casual Dining 3, 8 Raising Cane’s 62 Casual Dining 8 Ramiro’s Cantina 80 Mexican 2 Ramsi’s Café 56 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Red Hot Roasters 80 Coffee/Tea House 1, 2 Red Robin Gourmet Burgers 62 Casual Dining 3, 8 Red Sun Chinese 73 Asian/Chinese 4 Red’s Comfort Food 67 Sandwich/Deli 1 Relish 56 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Ri Ra Irish Pub 76 European/Irish 1 Rite Way Bar-B-Cue House 69 Barbecue 1 River City Drafthouse 71 Bar & Grill 2 River City Winery 56 Bistro/Contemporary 4 River Road BBQ 69 Barbecue 7 Riverside Café 58 Cafés 16 Rivue 51 Fine Dining 1 Rob-A-Que 69 Barbecue 13 Rocky’s Pizza & Panini 66 Pizza 4 Rocky’s Sub Pub 66 Pizza 16 Romano’s Macaroni Grill 76 European/Italian 5 Rooster’s 62 Casual Dining 12, 13, 15 Rootie’s Sports Bar & Grille 71 Bar & Grill 8 Roots 73 Asian/Japanese 2 Rosie’s Pizza 66 Pizza 5 Rosticeria Luna 80 Mexican 13 Royal Garden 73 Asian/Chinese 13 Rubbie’s Southside Grill & Bar 69 Barbecue 13 Ruby Tuesday 62 Casual Dining 6, 15 The Rudyard Kipling 62 Casual Dining 1 Rumors Raw Oyster Bar 59 Seafood 5 Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse 59 Steakhouse 3 Ryan’s Steakhouse 60 Steakhouse 11 Rye 54 Upscale Casual 1 SaE Café 67 Sandwich/Deli 1 Saffron’s 77 Middle Eastern 1 Safier Mediterranean Deli 77 Middle Eastern 1 Saigon Café 75 Asian/Vietnamese 3 Saigon One 75 Asian/Vietnamese 13 Saint’s 71 Bar & Grill 3 Sake Blue Japanese Bistro 73 Asian/Japanese 11 Sakura Blue 73 Asian/Japanese 3 Sala Thai 74 Asian/Thai 11 Sal’s Pizza & Wings 66 Pizza 5 Salsarita’s Fresh Cantina 80 Southwest/Tex Mex 3,5 Sam’s Food & Spirits 62 Casual Dining 14 Sam’s Hot Dog Stand 62 Casual Dining 2 Santa Fe Grill 80 Mexican 13 Sapporo Japanese Grill 73 Asian/Japanese 1, 2 Sari Sari Filipino Cuisine 73 Asian/Filipino 2 Sato’s Zen Sushi & Sake 73 Asian/Japanese 3 Schlotzsky’s Deli 67 Sandwich/Deli 8 Scotty’s Ribs & More 69 Barbecue 5 Scotty’s Village Market 67 Sandwich/Deli 8 Seafood Connection 59 Seafood 3 Selena’s at Willow Lake Tavern 78 Cajun/Creole 5 Señor Iguana’s 80 Mexican 3, 5, 6, 13, 15 Señor Taco 80 Mexican 11 Sergio’s World Beers 71 Bar & Grill 2 Seviche A Latin Restaurant 51 Fine Dining 2 Shack In The Back BBQ 69 Barbecue 13 Shady Lane Café 67 Sandwich/Deli 7 Shah’s Mongolian Grill 74 Asian/Mongolian 6, 13 Shalimar Indian 77 Indian 6 Shane’s Rib Shack 69 Barbecue 7 Shanghai Restaurant 73 Asian/Chinese 1 Sheila’s Southern Cuisine 63 Home Style/Southern 2 Shenanigan’s Irish Grille 76 European/Irish 2 Sherry’s Corner Café 58 Cafés 16 Shiraz Mediterranean Grill 77 Middle Eastern 2, 5, 7, 13 Shirley Mae’s Café 63 Home Style/Southern 1 Shogun 74 Asian/Japanese 6, 8 Shoney’s 62 Casual Dining 5, 13 Sichuan Garden 73 Asian/Chinese 6 Sicilian Pizza & Pasta 66 Pizza 1 Sidebar 56 Bistro/Contemporary 1 The Silver Dollar 57 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Simply Thai 74 Asian/Thai 3, 5 Sin Fronteras 80 Mexican 15 Sir Dano’s Pizza Parlor 66 Pizza 15 Sister Bean’s 80 Coffee/Tea House 13 Sitar Indian Restaurant 77 Indian 2 Skyline Chili 62 Casual Dining 2, 3, 6, 12 Smashburger 62 Casual Dining 1, 5 Smokehouse BBQ 69 Barbecue 11 Smoketown USA 69 Barbecue 1 Smokey Bones BBQ 69 Barbecue 6

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Smokey’s Bean Snappy Tomato Sol Aztecas Sonoma Coffee Café Sora Sushi Soul Food By Tiffany Spaghetti Shop Spinelli’s Pizzeria Sporting News Grill The Sports & Social Club Spring St. Bar & Grill St. Charles Exchange Star Sushi Starbucks Coffee Starving Artist Café State Donuts Steak N Shake Stevens & Stevens Deli Steve-O’s Italian Kitchen Stoney River Stricker’s Café Studio Pizza Sub Station II Sugar & Spice Donut Shop Sully’s Saloon Sunergos Coffee SuperChef’s Breakfast Sway Sweet Stuff Bakery Sweet Surrender Sweets & Such Bakery Taco Punk Taco Tico Tacqueria La Mexicana Taj Palace Take Out To The River TanThai Restaurant Taylor G’s Jamaican Jerk Tazza Mia TC’s Sandwich Shoppe Tea Station Chinese Bistro Terri Ann’s Texas Roadhouse Texicans BBQ Pit TGI Friday’s Thai Café Thai Siam Thai Smile 5 Thai Taste That Place On Goss The Back Door The Café The Cheddar Box The Cheddar Box Too Thornberry’s Deli & Pies Tin Roof Toast On Market Tokyo Japanese Tom + Chee Tomo Tony Impellizzeri’s Troll Pub Under The Bridge Tucker’s Tumbleweed Tuscany Italian Restaurant Tut’s Mediterranean Twig & Leaf Restaurant Uncle Maddio’s Pizza Joint Uptown Café Varanese Verbana Café Vic’s Café Vietnam Kitchen Village Anchor Pub & Roost Vincenzo’s Vint Coffee Vito’s Pizza Volare W.W. Cousin’s Wagner’s Pharmacy Wall Street Deli Warehouse Hookah Café Wasabiya Japanese Rest.

Webb’s Market Wick’s Pizza Wild Eggs Wild Ginger Sushi & Fusion William’s Bakery Wiltshire On Market Wiltshire Pantry Bakery The Wing Zone Wingstop Winston’s Wok Express Wolfgang Puck Express Wonton Express Yaching’s East West Cuisine Yafa Café Yang Kee Noodle Yellow Cactus Yen Ching You-Carryout-A Zanzabar Za’s Pizza Zaxby’s Zaytun Mediterranean Grill Zen Garden ZiaLaLa Café Zoe’s Kitchen Zoup!

Z’s Oyster Bar

MAP #

80 Coffee/Tea House 13 66 Pizza 8 80 Mexican 1, 2 80 Coffee/Tea House 2 74 Asian/Japanese 5 63 Home Style/Southern 13 76 European/Italian 11, 14 66 Pizza 1, 2, 3, 8, 12 71 Bar & Grill 13 71 Bar & Grill 1 71 Bar & Grill 2 60 Steakhouse 1 74 Asian/Japanese 16 80 Coffee/Tea House [35] 67 Sandwich/Deli 5 81 Desserts/Bakery 8 62 Casual Dining 4,6,8,13,12,15 68 Sandwich/Deli 2 76 European/Italian 7 60 Steakhouse 8 58 Cafés 16 66 Pizza 15 68 Sandwich/Deli 13 81 Desserts/Bakery 11 71 Bar & Grill 1 80 Coffee/Tea House 1, 13 62 Casual Dining 2, 3 54 Casual Dining 1 81 Desserts/Bakery 14 81 Desserts/Bakery 2 81 Desserts/Bakery 12 62 Casual Dining 1 80 Mexican 12 80 Mexican 13 77 Indian 8 58 Cafés 10 74 Asian/Thai 14 78 Caribbean/Cuban/Latin 1 80 Coffee/Tea House 6 68 Sandwich/Deli 1 73 Asian/Chinese 8 63 Home Style/Southern 12 60 Steakhouse 2, 12, 13, 15 69 Barbecue 7 62 Casual Dining 1 75 Asian/Thai 7 75 Asian/Thai 4 75 Asian/Thai 13 75 Asian/Thai 2 62 Casual Dining 13 71 Bar & Grill 2 58 Cafés 1 58 Cafés 3 58 Cafés 3 68 Sandwich/Deli 13 71 Bar & Grill 3 62 Casual Dining 1, 14 74 Asian/Japanese 7 68 Sandwich/Deli 2, 3, 13 74 Asian/Japanese 14 66 Pizza 14 71 Bar & Grill 1 62 Casual Dining 14 80 Southwest/Tex Mex [15] 76 European/Italian 13 77 Middle Eastern 4 62 Casual Dining 2 66 Pizza 2 54 Upscale Casual 7 54 Upscale Casual 2 58 Cafés 8 71 Bar & Grill 14 75 Asian/Vietnamese 13 57 Bistro/Contemporary 5 51 Fine Dining 1 80 Coffee/Tea House 2 66 Pizza 13 76 European/Italian 2 68 Sandwich/Deli 3 63 Home Style/Southern 13 68 Sandwich/Deli 1 77 Middle Eastern 14 74 Asian/Japanese 2 63 Home Style/Southern 1 66 Pizza 2, 5, 6, 8, 14 58 Cafés 3, 5 74 Asian/Japanese 2 81 Desserts/Bakery 15 55 Upscale Casual 1 58 Cafés 2 62 Casual Dining 13 71 Bar & Grill 12 51 Fine Dining 4 73 Asian/Chinese 1 58 Cafés 1 73 Asian/Chinese 4 55 Upscale Casual 1 58 Cafés 1 73 Asian/Chinese 5 80 Mexican 14 73 Asian/Chinese 6 73 Asian/Chinese 15, 16 71 Bar & Grill 13 66 Pizza 2 62 Casual Dining 5,13,14,16 78 Middle Eastern 2 75 Asian/Vietnamese 2 58 Cafés 5 78 Middle Eastern 1, 3, 8 68 Sandwich/Deli 1 51 Fine Dining 5 www.facebook.com/foodanddine Fall 2013 49

GUIDE KEY Average Entrée Price:

$$ = under $8 $$$$ = $15-$20 $$ = $9-$14 $$$$ = $21 & up RED = Advertiser

B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

h = Late Night

p

OPEN PAST 10 P.M.

= Full Bar

f = Outdoor Dining = e Live Music

ALL RESTAURANTS ARE LOCATED IN LOUISVILLE (unless noted otherwise).

All phone numbers are local calls. When out of the area, use area code 502 for all listings except Indiana, use 812.

211 CLOVER LANE RESTAURANT 211 Clover Ln., 896-9570. This stylish spot in St. Matthews continues to rank among the city’s top tables. Ownermanager Andrew Smith and long time Chef Troy Schuster have burnished the upscale atmosphere and creative menu, moving 211 Clover Lane to a destination dining spot. $$$$ Br L D pf 610 MAGNOLIA 610 Magnolia Ave., 636-0783. Chef Edward Lee’s creative international prix fixe menu has kept this elegantly comfortable Old Louisville restaurant a top table for more than 25 years. His monthly family style pasta and bistro dinners across the street in the Wine Studio give diners a way to appreciate his skills at a lower price point. $$$$ D pf BUCK’S 425 W. Ormsby Ave., 637-5284. Elegant but not overstated, this fine dining room in the Mayflower Apartments has been quietly serving high-style lunches and dinners for more than two decades.

The quality of food and service remains high, and Rick Bartlett continues his long tenure at the piano. $$$ L D hpfe

The Perfect Location for Every Occasion

CORBETT’S ‘AN AMERICAN PLACE’ 5050 Norton Healthcare Blvd., 327-5058. Dean Corbett, longtime fixture on the Louisville dining scene, went all-out with his East End destination. Housed in the stunning former Von Allmen mansion, Corbett’s kitchen is state of the art, the dining room amenities include a chef’s table with closed circuit TV connection to the kitchen, and his menu has been earning raves. Worth the trip and the price. $$$$ L D hpf ENGLISH GRILL 335 W. Broadway (The Brown Hotel), 583-1234. This landmark, formal dining room is firing on all cylinders under Chef Laurent Geroli, who brings an international sophistication to the menu, and a wider exploration of cuisines with occasional special wine dinners. We recommend booking the chef’s table for an especially memorable evening. $$$ D p

KENTUCKY’S Y’S FIRST AND ONLY AAA FIVE DIAMOND AWARD RESTAURANT

Located in

500 South Fourth Street www.TheOakroomLouisville.com (502) 807-DINE

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JACK BINION’S STEAKHOUSE Horseshoe Casino Hotel, Elizabeth, IN, 888-766-2648. Housed in the Horseshoe Casino, Jack Binion’s, a stylish, upscale place, is no gamble for hearty dining. A traditional steakhouse, but one that aims high: top quality meat, impeccable service, a high-roller’s ambience. $$$$ D hp JACK FRY’S 1007 Bardstown Rd., 452-9244. Good times or bad, weeknights or weekends, this Louisville institution — the remnant of a 1930s saloon — is always crowded and buzzing. Stephanie Meeks has

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

taken over from long-time owner Susan Seiler, but the upscale bistro fare, like shrimp and grits and spicy fried oysters, is as good as ever. $$$$ L D hpe LILLY’S 1147 Bardstown Rd., 451-0447. A Louisville institution for more than a quarter-century, Lilly’s, under much heralded owner-chef Kathy Cary, continues to be as fresh as the locally-sourced foods she features on her Kentucky-accented menus. Her frequent special wine dinners are among the more affordable and creative in the area. $$$$ Br L D p LIMESTONE 10001 Forest Green Blvd., 426-7477. Chef Jim Gerhardt has established a stylish and elegant dining experience in the East End. Seasonal theme dinners and the Feed Me Chef ad hoc dinners offer special values. $$$$ L D hpf MILKWOOD 316 W. Main St., 584-6455. Edward Lee of 610 Magnolia plans the menus and oversees the kitchen of the basement space at Actors Theatre, and Len Stevens, formerly of L&N Wine Bar manages it.

Bold selections of both wine and beer are on tap, and a quirky menu includes things like Lee’s take on fried chicken and “lip-smacking frog legs.” $$$ D p THE OAKROOM 500 S. Fourth St. (Seelbach Hotel), 585-3200. Executive Chef Jim Gerhardt (who also operates Limestone in the East End) continues to make the Oakroom worthy of its AAA fivediamond designation. The menu is refined but lively, melding local produce and specialty items like spoonfish caviar with classic continental cuisine. $$$$ Br D pe RIVUE 140 N. Fourth St., (Galt House Hotel) 568-4239.

The sleek black and white modern decor, slowly spinning to give a panorama of the city, brings to mind an old Fred Astaire movie. Chef Brian Riddle’s menu, with a local emphasis and upscale flourishes, adds another top hotel dining experience to the city. $$$ Br D hp SEVICHE A LATIN RESTAURANT 1538 Bardstown Rd., 473-8560. Chef Anthony Lamas’ menu offers an eclectic range of Latin American dishes in addition to the namesake the Latino seafood dish “cooked” in tart citrus juices. Continuing to get notice throughout the Southeast for his imaginative cooking, he is setting a standard of cool for the Bardstown Road eating scene. $$$$ D

hpf

VINCENZO’S 150 S. Fifth St., 580-1350. Known for its suave professional service, high-end Northern Italian fare and many trademark dishes finished at tableside, Vincenzo’s continues to hold its own against growing downtown competition. $$$$ L D hpe WINSTON’S RESTAURANT 3101 Bardstown Rd. (Sullivan University Campus), 456-0980. Higher education meets higher cuisine at this elegant oncampus restaurant staffed by Sullivan culinary arts students. But this is no college lab; it’s an attractive and stylish restaurant. Chef John Castro runs the staff through its paces guaranteeing that while students are learning their craft, your dinner will ace the test. Open Fri. - Sun. only. Reservations suggested. $$$ Br L D p Z’S OYSTER BAR & STEAKHOUSE 101 Whittington Pkwy., 429-8000, 115 S. Fourth St., 855-8000. The successful upscale steak and oyster concept that has worked so well in the Hurstbourne suburbs is now also the theme at Z’s sleek downtown venue.

Splendid steaks, extraordinary seafood, fine service and clubby ambience will give visitors another center-city choice. $$$$ L D hp

60 WEST BISTRO & MARTINI BAR 3939 Shelbyville Rd., 719-9717. 60 West combines a comfortable dining room with a large, friendly bar offering an imposing list of martinis and martini-style cocktails.

The menu offers fairly priced Contemporary American bistro fare. $$$ D hfe

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

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ASIATIQUE 1767 Bardstown Rd., 451-2749. Fifteen years ago Chef Peng Looi introduced Louisville diners to pan-Asian Pacific Rim fusion cuisine. In his sophisticated, multi-level, Bardstown Road restaurant he continues to offer clean, simple, elegant dishes that present often startling flavor combinations. His wok-seared salmon has long been a local favorite. $$$ Br D hpf AUSTIN’S 4950 U.S. 42, 423-1990. Big, crowded and bistro-style, with heavy emphasis on the bar, this suburban watering hole taps the same vein as the national franchise booze ’n’ beef genre, and does so well, offering satisfying dining at a fair price. $$ Br L D p BASA MODERN VIETNAMESE 2244 Frankfort Ave., 896-1016. Chef Michael Ton brought a new style of Asian fusion cuisine to Louisville, playing entertaining riffs off Vietnamese cooking, with daring choices like caramelized catfish claypot and tamarind-sriracha gelato. $$$ D hp BLACKSTONE GRILLE 9521 U.S. 42, 228-6962.

Longtime restaurateur Rick Dissell, formerly of Rick’s Ferrari Grille, continues to please his many fans at his latest restaurant in the Prospect Center.

The menu offers sandwiches and an array of bistro entrées — pasta, seafood, beef and chicken, including Rick’s fried chicken livers and “light” fried chicken. $$$ Br D pf THE BLIND PIG 1076 E. Washington St., 618-0600.

(See listing under Bistro/Contemporary.)

BLU ITALIAN MEDITERRANEAN GRILLE 280 W. Jefferson St. (Louisville Marriott), 627-5045. BLU offers upscale Italian Mediterranean cuisine in striking surroundings highlighted by Mexican limestone and Italian marble. For those seeking a relaxing libation and a quicker snack, the Bar at BLU offers a more casual alternative. $$$ B Br L D pe BRAVO! 206 Bullitt Ln. (Oxmoor Center), 326-0491.

Management describes the Ohio-based Bravo! chain as “a fun, white-tablecloth casual eatery … positioned between the fine-dining and casual chains.” A Romanruin setting houses abundant Italian-American style fare. We particularly enjoyed appetizers and firstrate grilled meats. $$ Br L D hpf BRISTOL BAR & GRILLE 1321 Bardstown Rd., 4561702, 300 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 426-0627, 614 W. Main St., 582-1995, 6051 Timber Ridge Dr., 292-2585, 2035 S. Third St., 634-2723, 700 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 218-1995. A cornerstone of Louisville’s restaurant renaissance, The Bristol started three decades ago on Bardstown Road. Now with six venues around town, diners can always find dependable pub grub, eclectic entrées, and evergreen standards like the green-chile won tons and the Bristol Burger. F&D columnist Scott Harper has crafted an exceptional wine selection. $$ Br L D hpf CAVIAR JAPANESE RESTAURANT 416 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 625-3090. Sammy Sa, the genial host of the Fuji restaurants in the East End, also pleases downtown diners with this stylish Japanese eatery next door to the Seelbach Hotel. Eat at the sushi bar, choose a comfortable table or reserve the traditional Japanesestyle Tatami Room for your group. $$$ L D hp CHARR’D BOURBON KITCHEN & LOUNGE 1903 Embassy Square Blvd. (Marriott Louisville East), 4911184. The restaurant in the Jeffersontown Marriott plays up its Bourbon theme on the menu divisions (“10 Minute White Dog” lunch choices, “Bourbon Kitchen Favorites,” “Bootlegger Burger Bar” and so on) but in addition you will find some interesting outliers: fish tacos, a turkey burger, truffle mac and cheese and hot water cornbread. The Bourbon selection is impressive and includes more than 75 offerings of Kentucky’s finest. $$$ Br L D hp THE CHEESECAKE FACTORY 5000 Shelbyville Rd. (Mall St. Matthews), 897-3933. “Cheesecake” is its name, and this glitzy shopping-mall eatery offers a wide variety of rich, calorific choices to eat in or 52 Fall 2013 www.foodanddine.com

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

take out. It’s more than just cheesecake, though, with a wide-ranging menu of California, Southwestern and Pacific Rim fare plus full bar service. $$$ Br L D hpf CORNER CAFÉ 9307 New Lagrange Rd., 426-8119.

There’s nothing fancy or overly elegant about this suburban neighborhood old favorite, but the term “eclectic” fits it well. $$$ L D hp DECCA 812 E. Market St., 749-8128. Located in an 1870s building in NuLu, Decca brings the talent of chef Annie Pettry to Louisville. A commitment to locally farmed and small production ingredients is evident in the kitchen, and throughout the bar and wine program. Decca features local artists and musicians alongside inspired food and drinks in a warm atmosphere. $$$$ D hpfe DOC CROW’S 127 W. Main St., 587-1626. Doc Crow’s solidly anchors the dining choices on Whiskey Row. Oysters from both coasts, raw and fried, fried green tomatoes, pork rinds, shrimp and grits, all served in a handsome renovation of one of Main Street’s classic cast-iron front buildings. $$ L D hp EQUUS 122 Sears Ave., 897-9721. With the newish Corbett’s in the East End hitting on all cylinders, veteran Chef Dean Corbett has returned to his flagship St. Matthews restaurant, redesigning the room for a more casual atmosphere, and refocusing the menu on comfort foods, with no entrée over $19. Though the prices are lower, we don’t expect the quality of fare to follow suit. $$$ D p GARY’S ON SPRING 204 Spring St., 584-5533. Chef Harold Baker has been at the helm of this Irish Hill upscale casual spot since the start about a year ago. His menu features appetizers such as a baby Hot Brown and chicken fritters with red chili sauce, a buffalo mozzarella salad, bison ribeye, Bourbon Street scallops and eggplant Napoleon. $$$ D phpfe HARVEST 624 E. Market St., 384-9090. Agricultural entrepreneur Ivor Chodkowski’s venture into the restaurant world focuses on locally sourced foods (Chodkowski and Chef Coby Ming are shooting for 80% from within 100 mile radius), which limits the fish selection, but increases diners’ awareness of how much local food producers can do. Dishes such as smoked goat cheese ravioli and buttermilk fried chicken with arugula hoecake show what they have in mind. $$$ Br L D hpf HAWKSVIEW GALLERY AND CAFÉ 170 Carter Ave., Shepherdsville KY, (502) 955-1010. In this “American bistro with a Southern twist,” diners eat amidst a gallery of hand-crafted glass art. Daily specials are inspired by world cuisines and the “confectionary artist” creates sweets like Linzer tortes and extreme turtle cheesecake. Watch glass being blown as you dine. $$ Br L D e HENRY’S PLACE 4863 Brownsboro Ctr., 690-6585.

This East End, Euro-inspired brigade de cuisine restaurant offers affordable upscale dining in surroundings of “sophisticated retro Mad Men 60s” decor. The eclectic menu offers choices such as Wagyu beef carpaccio, chicken ballotine and cioppino. Chef and co-owner Charles Reed even uses double-yolk duck eggs in his house-made pasta for added richness and color. $$$$ D p J. ALEXANDER’S RESTAURANT 102 Oxmoor Court, 339-2206. This comfortably upscale venue, a Nashville-based chain, features “contemporary American” fare with a broad menu that ranges from burgers and sandwiches to such upscale eats as grilled tuna or a New York strip steak. $$$ D hp J. HARROD’S 7507 Upper River Rd., 228-4555. J. Harrod’s is discreetly tasteful and pleasantly comfortable. The food is competitive in both quality and value. It’s an appealing, upscale blend of bistro fare and old-fashioned country cooking. $$$ D p

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

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KT’S 2300 Lexington Rd., 458-8888. It’s hard to argue with success, and KT’s has earned its popularity by providing good American-style bar and bistro chow for a price that’s fair. $$ Br L D hpf MAKER’S MARK BOURBON HOUSE & LOUNGE 446 S. Fourth St., (Fourth Street Live) 568-9009.

Kentucky’s Maker’s Mark Distillery lends its name and its signature red-wax image to this stylish restaurant and lounge in the booming downtown entertainment complex. A magisterial bar features more than 60 Bourbons, and the menu offers traditional Kentucky fare. $$$$ L D hpf MELTING POT 2045 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-3125.

This Florida-based chain brings back pleasant memories of fondue parties of the ’70s. If you can melt it and dip things in it, the Melting Pot probably has it on the menu. $$$ D hp NAPA RIVER GRILL 1211 Herr Ln., 893-0141. Innovative wine-country cuisine, excellent service and fine California-focused wine collection can be found in the stylish quarters of this popular East End restaurant. With an expanded menu serving both lunch and dinner, it’s become one of the anchors of trendy Westport Village center. $$$ L D hpf OLD STONE INN 6905 Shelbyville Rd., Simpsonville, KY, (502) 722-8200. For many years diners have happily driven out to Simpsonville to enjoy both the historic building and the traditional Kentucky menu of this dining institution. Those in the know order the fried chicken and country ham. $$$ Br L D pfe P.F. CHANG’S CHINA BISTRO 9120 Shelbyville Rd., 327-7707. This Arizona-based, Chinese themed restaurant offers a loud, happy scene with Chinesestyle dishes. To its credit, everything is prepared well and service is consistently fine. $$$ L D hpf PROOF ON MAIN 702 W. Main St. (21c Hotel), 2176360. Executive chef Levon Wallace is at the helm in the kitchen now, promising to keep the bison burger and the octopus on the menu as he explores his own ways to incorporate local products into his culinary vision. $$$ Br L D hpf RYE 900 E. Market St., 749-6200. After a long apprenticeship in the New York restaurant world, Michael Trager-Kusman has returned to his hometown where he and his partner, Aaron Yarmuth, have invested in the renovation of the old Hausmann Jeep Eagle building on far east Market St. Operating the restaurant is front-of-the-house manager Erin McDonald, who came from Chicago, and Chef Tyler Morris, a veteran of The Breslin in New York. $$ L D hpf SWAY 320 W. Jefferson St. (Hyatt Regency), 587-3434.

After a $5.8 million renovation, the Hyatt Regency, long without a signature competitive restaurant, is now back in the game, with one of the handsomest dining spaces around. The menu is based on the “Southern Way,” from whence comes the name Sway, which is an emphasis on fresh seasonal food with local sourcing whenever possible. The bar area opens onto Fourth Street, for superior people-watching. $$$ B L D hpf UPTOWN CAFÉ 1624 Bardstown Rd., 458-4212.

Anchoring a hot corner in the Highlands for two decades now, the Uptown continues to be a popular lunch and dining destination, with its excellent bistro fare, and always appealing dessert selections. $$$ L D hpf VARANESE 2106 Frankfort Ave., 899-9904. Chef John Varanese has made even old-timers forget that this stylish venue was once a gas station. With a slate interior waterfall and a front wall that folds open in good weather, the dining room is as interesting as the lively, international seasonal menu. Live jazz, contemporary art and urban style complete the mood. $$$ D hpfe VOLARE 2300 Frankfort Ave., 894-4446. (See review under European/Italian.)

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RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

WILTSHIRE ON MARKET 636 E. Market St., 5895224. Understated elegance and creative dishes characterize this NuLu restaurant. Owner Susan Hershberg set the benchmark for fine catering in Louisville with Wiltshire Pantry, which she continues here with her finely crafted small plates menu that changes weekly to showcase the best seasonal ingredients. Open Thur. - Sun. only.

Reservations suggested. $$ D pf YACHING’S EAST WEST CUISINE 105 S. Fourth St., 585-4005. Yaching’s promises “an eclectic menu of contemporary Asian fusion cuisine.” It’s an attractive mix of East and West, sufficient to give just about everyone something to enjoy, regardless of which compass point attracts your taste buds. $$$ L D hp

ATRIUM CAFÉ 9940 Corporate Campus Dr. (Embassy Suites), 426-9191. An eclectic bistro atmosphere in the heart of the hotel. Specials run from their popular crab cakes and array of pasta dishes to a Reuben sandwich or fruit pie. $$ B L D hp BAXTER STATION BAR & GRILL 1201 Payne St., 5841635. The corner bar with the railroad theme is also an ambitious restaurant, known for surprises like Cajun linguini with andouille sausage, homemade desserts (from pastry chef Amy Berry) and lunchtime “steam table” plates. Take particular note of an impressive beer list to go with your meal. $$ L D pf BISTRO 1860 WINE BAR 1765 Mellwood Ave., 6181745. The old house on the edge of Butchertown is now painted an arresting mustardy-yellow. The interior is all old brick and warm wood, with a comfy upstairs lounge space. All parts of the menu are offered at three size/price ranges: petite for tasting, appetizer and small entrée, allowing diners to explore the menu at reasonable cost. $$$ D

hpf

BISTRO 301 301 W. Market St., 584-8337. Quality contemporary American cuisine in a stylish environment makes Bistro 301 a reasonable alternative when you’re looking for upscale-casual dining downtown. $$$ L D pf THE BLIND PIG 1076 E. Washington St., 618-0600.

This Euro-style gastropub’s menu focuses on French country cooking, house-made sausages and charcuterie, served in a casual but sophisticated atmosphere in a late-19th century building in Butchertown. $$ Br L D hpe BOURBONS BISTRO 2255 Frankfort Ave., 894-8838.

It’s a comfortably upscale-casual restaurant, and a great bar, with a very comprehensive Bourbon list.

Chef Jeff ”The Dude” Bridges has been reinvigorating this Crescent Hill favorite’s menu to match the excellence of its libations. $$$ D pf BRIX WINE BAR 12418 La Grange Rd., 243-1120.

The use of an exceptionally obscure wine term (it’s pronounced “bricks” and refers to the sugar content of ripe grapes at harvest) hints that the proprietors of this wine bar know their vino. Interesting wines and a short bistro-style menu make it a welcome suburban alternative. $$ D hpe CAFÉ LOU LOU 106 Sears Ave, 893-7776, 2216 Dundee Rd., 459-9566. Critical raves and packed in crowds at both locations testifies to the popularity of Owner-Chef Clay Wallace’s international bill of fare and laissez les bon temps rouler mood. $$ Br L D hp CAFFE CLASSICO 2144 Frankfort Ave., 895-0076. At first a coffee bar, but over the years the classy space at Clifton and Frankfort has matured into an elegant bistro serving an eclectic menu — salmon croquettes with wasabi aioli, empanadas, an international array of salads, panini, bocadillos and pizzas. A stylish place for lunch, or a hip stop for a late-night supper. $$ B L D fe

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

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DISH ON MARKET 434 W. Market St., 315-0669.

Former Asiatique bar manager Anderson Grissom has stepped into the venerable lawyers’ lunch space on Market Street, renovating the kitchen and some interior space of the old Delta Restaurant into a somewhat upscale spot now open breakfast through dinner. $ B Br L D pf DITTO’S GRILL 1114 Bardstown Rd., 581-9129.

This informally whimsical Highlands space masks the work of classically trained owner-chefs Dominic Serratore and Frank Yang. Sure, take note of the fanciful artwork adorning the exposed brick walls and the gargoyles in the ceiling. But don’t overlook Serratore’s “gourmet casual” menu of New England crab cakes, fanciful salads and Sunday brunch egg dishes. $$ Br L D hpf EXCHANGE PUB + KITCHEN 118 W. Main St., New Albany IN, 948-6501. Ian Hall, with Chef Rick Adams in tow, has moved his gastropub to a sumptuously renovated historic building in the center of the New Albany dining revival. His clever but accessible American bistro style food is available from lunch to late night. Notable on the menu are bison dishes — burger, nachos (housemade chips with bison chili topping) and skirt steak. $$ L D hpfe FOUR PEGS BEER LOUNGE 1053 Goss Ave., 6341447. Four Pegs has settled in nicely to the Germantown scene. Twelve craft beers on tap and a 30 bottle beer list brings in the fans, who also appreciate the award-winning veggie burger and other well-priced pub grub such as a chicken and waffle sandwich and an estimable burger with bacon-fried green tomatoes and beer sauce. $ D hf HAMMERHEADS 921 Swan St., 365-1112. Two veterans of the upscale kitchens along Bardstown Road have taken over the old Swan Dive space, and patrons of the previous vegan haunt are quickly becoming fans. Vegetarian selections such as crispy mushroom medley and veggie tacos join interesting oddities like duck sliders and bacon plantain croquetas. Also pulled pork and brisket, crab cakes, and a reasonable beer selection. $ D h HARD ROCK CAFÉ 424 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live), 568-2202. Louisville’s Fourth Street Live echoes with a bang amid hammering guitars and happy throngs at the local branch of this popular shrine to rock. The music scene is the draw, but you’ll have no com plaints about Hard Rock’s standard American cuisine. $$ L D hpfe HOLY GRALE 1034 Bardstown Rd., 459-9939. The owners of the Louisville Beer Store have converted a former church to a beer pub and restaurant. Twenty taps offer a rotating choice of international brews, and an eclectic menu offers Belgian frites, pretzels and beer cheese, tacos and crostini. $ L D he JACK’S LOUNGE 122 Sears Ave., 897-9026. A sophisticated, elegant bar associated with the Equus restaurant next door, Jack’s offers a short but excellent menu featuring appetizers and light bites, along with a drinks list beyond reproach. $ D pf JAZZYBLU 815 W. Market St., 992-3243. The basement space at Glassworks that formerly housed The Jazz Factory is bopping again with regularly scheduled live jazz performances Thurs. - Sun. nights, and southern comfort food style lunch buffets Tues. - Fri. $ L D hpe MAJID’S ST. MATTHEWS 3930 Chenoweth Sq., 6182222. Long-time restaurateur and top-notch host Majid Ghavami’s current venture, in the heart of St. Matthews, offers a Mediterranean-American menu.

The wine bar serves small plates, and focuses on American wines and an eclectic list from unusual locations — Lebanon, Israel, Greece and the Balkans. $$$ Br D pfe

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MANNY & MERLE 122 W. Main St., 290-8888.

Tony Palombino’s latest addition to his eclectic local empire serves up contemporary Mexican street food (Mod Mex) and a funky bar menu that highlights an impressive collection of tequilas and Bourbons. A major C&W music venue, with live acts most nights of the week, featuring Nashville bands as well as local talent tending to the rawer, honkytonk end of the country spectrum. $ L D hpe MARKETPLACE RESTAURANT 651 S. Fourth St., 625-3001. Up front in the old Kentucky Theater is a deli and gourmet grocery. Behind the circular bar is the serene dining room, with a central hearth, and beyond that, a large enclosed patio. Chef Dallas McGarity’s seasonal menu cleverly fuses culinary concepts: crawfish arancini, duck confit ragout and curry-seared scallops, for instance. $$ L D hpf MATCH CIGAR BAR 207 Spring St., Jeffersonville IN, 725-7475. This classy cigar and Bourbon lounge specializes in elegant cocktails, premium cigars and offers a small menu including Bourbonmarinated steak, grilled chicken, burgers and cheeses. $$ D p MUSSEL & BURGER BAR 9200 Taylorsville Rd., 3844834. Guaca Mole’s Fernando Martinez and his family stretch their ambitions and imaginations with an affordable “American bistro concept” featuring mussels with six different sauces, and 12 clever twists on burgers. Located in a strip mall just beyond the Hurstbourne Lane -Taylorsville Road intersection, it is worth seeking out, both for the food and for the comfy bistro atmosphere created in the cavernous space tricked out by former owners. L D hpe NORTH END CAFÉ 1722 Frankfort Ave., 896-8770, 2116 Bardstown Rd., 690-4161. Both locations of this long-time favorite offer hearty and unusual breakfast, satisfying lunches and dinners. With an eclectic menu of diverse tapas and interesting entrées, it’s an appealing, affordable place to dine. $$ B Br L D hpfe OLD 502 WINERY 122 S. Tenth St., 540-5650. Watch the winemakers craft 10 varieties of wine from Kentucky-grown grapes and imported juices as you enjoy lunch or dinner in this upscale-casual eatery just west of downtown. The winery serves a full bar-style menu. $$ L D he RAMSI’S CAFÉ ON THE WORLD 1293 Bardstown Rd., 451-0700. The beating bohemian heart of the Highlands. Ramsi Kamar brings a wonderfully eclectic spirit to the environment and to his menu. Cuban.

Jamaican. Greek. Middle Eastern. Moderate prices, a weekend brunch and late night hours add to the draw. $$ L D hpf RELISH 1346 River Rd., 587-7007. After a long hiatus from the restaurant biz, former Jack Fry’s and La Paloma owner, Susan Seiller, has opened this small, 50-seat lunch and takeout place focusing on “healthy, clean cuisine.” After cooking for her father following a heart attack, Seiler was inspired to create a restaurant serving healthful foods with lots of flavor. Takeout will be available only to customers with pre-paid accounts and who order their food online for pickup. $$ L f RIVER CITY WINERY 321 Pearl St., New Albany IN, 945-9463. Ten of owners Gary and Melissa Humphrey’s wines medaled in the June 2011 Indy International Wine Competition. Their honest, straightforward wines and Italian-inspired menu, featuring brink-oven pizzas, draw appreciative crowds. Don’t miss the crab cakes with black-eyed pea salsa. $$ Br L D e SIDEBAR AT WHISKEY ROW 129 N. Second St., 384-1600. On the west side of Whiskey Row, above Troll Pub under the Bridge, this new place focuses on burgers, Bourbon and beer, a potentially boffo combo for those going to or coming from the Yum! Center across the street. The emphasis is on craft

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

cocktails served alongside short but bold selection of sandwiches, appetizers and desserts. $$ L D hpe THE SILVER DOLLAR 1761 Frankfort Ave., 259-9540.

The old firehouse in Clifton is now a honky tonk bar and restaurant, the music (all on vinyl) focused on the “Bakersfield sound” — a fusion of Mexicali and American roots music. The southern country-style menu with sophisticated nuances has been an immediate hit. Choose from more than 80 Kentucky Bourbons, ryes, tequila and mescal, but no “foreign whiskey” like Scotch. $$ Br L D hpf VILLAGE ANCHOR PUB & ROOST 11507 Park Rd., 708-1850. In the heart of Anchorage at the old train station is this two-level Euro-village inspired concept. On the upper level, a French bistro a la Moulin Rouge with an outdoor terrace. Downstairs at The Sea Hag the ambience is a British pub. The hearty upscale comfort food-style menu is served lunch and dinner with weekend brunch. A short, well-selected wine list and ambitious beer list with more than 50 craft and import choices accompany 55 Bourbons to boot. $$$ Br L D hpf

ALLEY CAT CAFÉ 11804 Shelbyville Rd., 245-6544.

This suburban Alley Cat is a cozy and bright little place, and the lunch-only menu is affordable and appealing. $ L THE ANCHORAGE CAFÉ 11505 Park Rd., 708-1880.

It started as a suburban coffee bar and café offering continental breakfasts and sandwiches. But in no time Anchorage Café has morphed into a premium bakery and Anchorage-area go-to spot for eclectic, farm-to-table meals at lunch and dinner. And it still offers excellent espresso. $ B Br L D f AROMA CAFÉ Horseshoe Casino Hotel, Elizabeth IN, 888-766-2648. Grab a bite before hitting the casino.

Sandwiches, salads, sides, cold beverages and coffee will fuel you for a night of entertainment. $ B L D hp BLOOMS CAFÉ 307 Wallace Ave., 896-8008. Darnell “Superchef” Ferguson, the mastermind behind the pop-up breakfast concept around Louisville, has reopened the popular ladies’ lunch room in St. Matthews, keeping many of the menu ideas from previous owner Nancy Royce, but adding some of his own twists: candied bacon on Royce’s Benedictine, and turning her fruit salads into pineapple, blueberry or strawberry compotes. $ L

Introducing our newest Wiltshire Pantry location ...

Wiltshire Pantry Bakery & Café

BLUE DOG BAKERY AND CAFÉ 2868 Frankfort Ave., 899-9800. Tables are always at a premium at this popular Crescent Hill breakfast and lunch spot. And its artisanal bakery continues to produce hearty European-style breads that have set a gold standard on restaurant tables and in better grocery stores around town. $$ B L f

Sweet!

BLUEGRASS CAFÉ 3819 Bardstown Rd., 459-2320.

This little lunch spot in the Derby City Antique Mall in Buechel has a daily hot table buffet line plus a menu of soups, salads and sandwiches. On Sundays it offers a brunch buffet with a choice of breakfast and luncheon dishes. $ Br L BOOMER’S CAFÉ 722 W. Main St., 585-4356. In the midst of the booming West Main Street arts and museum district, this lunch spot offers standard American café fare. $ L CAFÉ 27 145 E. Main St., New Albany IN, 948-9999.

Downtown New Albany gets another addition to its eclectic dining scene with this new lunch and dinner spot. The nighttime menu emphasizes grilled dishes, while the lunch list includes a variety of sandwiches and unique salads, such as a roasted corn and steak salad and a bacon Bibb. $$$ L D hp

– INSPIRED CUISINE SINCE 198 9 –

Featuring artisan breads, pastries, brioche, gourmet sandwiches, salads and more.

CAFÉ AT MAIN STREET 10317 Watterson Trl., 267-5111. This bright, lively lunch place moved into the city from Bullitt County trailing loyalists and drawing new fans. A typical day of specials

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

Visit our new Bakery and Café ~ 901 Barret Avenue at the corner of East Breckinridge Street www.WiltshirePantry.com | 502.581-8561

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might include tomato cheddar or butterbean soup, asparagus and chicken quiche, warm brie spinach salad and a selection of house-made pies and cakes. $ B Br L CAFÉ FRAICHE 3642 Brownsboro Rd., 894-8929.

Cuisine from around the world is featured at this East End neighborhood café, featuring homemade soups, breads and a variety of entrées on a seasonally changing menu. $ B L CAFÉ MONTAGU 1930 Bishop Ln., 451-6357. This breakfast and lunch place provides breakfasts and lunches mainly to the denizens of the Watterson Towers office complex. Home-style cooking, daily specials (meatloaf, pastas) and quick service keep the wheels of business rolling. $ B L CHEDDAR BOX CAFÉ 12121 Shelbyville Rd., 2452622. An attractive — and busy — Middletown lunch spot, owner Michelle Bartholmew serves popular salads, sandwiches and soups, as well as hot entrées such as potato-chip-crusted whitefish, specialty pizzas, and lemon-tarragon chicken with orzo. Pick up some frozen appetizers for your next cocktail party. $ L D f CITY CAFÉ 505 W. Broadway, 589-1797, 500 S. Preston St., 852-5739. Chef Jim Henry, a long-time star in the city’s culinary firmament, brings his cooking skills and insistence on fresh, quality ingredients to these simple, but excellent, spots for lunch. $ L CRAVE CAFÉ & CATERING 2250 Frankfort Ave., 896-1488. Experienced caterers and chefs offer casual but quality café fare in this comfortable old frame house in Clifton. $$ L D CREEKSIDE OUTPOST & CAFÉ 614 Hausfeldt Ln., New Albany IN, 948-9118. The Creekside Outpost warps customers back into the days of general stores and maintains every bit of old-fashioned charm.

Serving up buffalo, elk and surprisingly good burgers.

Exotic foods including Shinnecock ice fish, black bear, ostrich and kangaroo (when available) round out an excellent, traveled menu. $$ B L f CRICKET’S CAFÉ 7613 Old Hwy. 60, Sellersburg IN, 246-9339. Offering breakfasts and lunch to local Hoosiers and travelers who take exit 7 off I-65. Full breakfasts, omelets, and breakfast sandwiches. A full range of standard lunch sandwiches, with Reubens, Philly steak and cheese, and daily specials.

Homemade soups and salads, too. $ B Br L f DERBY CAFÉ 704 Central Ave., (Kentucky Derby Museum) 634-0858. Lunch served year-round in the dining area adjacent to the Derby Museum with such regional favorites as meaty burgoo, and the Hot Brown. $ L pf EARTH FRIENDS CAFÉ AND COFFEE BAR 829 E. Market St., 749-8911, 180 W. Spring St., New Albany IN, 949-4430. The emphasis at both locations is on vegetarian and vegan sandwiches, soups and salads, with a small “omnivore” selection. $ B Br L EMMA LOU’S CAFÉ 1327 Bardstown Rd., 456-4500.

This long-time ladies’ lunch favorite, in an attractive old house on Bardstown Road, offers interesting, pleasant lunch fare, with very appealing dessert choices. $$ L ERMIN’S BAKERY & CAFÉ 1201 S. First St., 6356960, 455 S. Fourth St. (Starks Bldg.), 585-5120.

These popular bakeries attract crowds looking for an enjoyable soup and sandwich lunch highlighted

by French-style breads and pastries. $ B L HIGHLAND MORNING 1416 Bardstown Rd., 3653900. You can order breakfast anytime at this Highlands space, with an eclectic menu that also encompasses brunch, burgers, soul food, Southern dishes and vegetarian fare as well. $ B L D h J. GRAHAM’S CAFÉ & BAR 335 W. Broadway (The Brown Hotel), 583-1234. The home of the legendary “Hot Brown” sandwich, J. Graham’s offers a 58 Fall 2013 www.foodanddine.com

more casual bistro-style alternative to the upscale English Grill, with choice of menu service or buffet dining. $$ B L pf JAMBA JUICE 320 S. Fourth St., 581-0066. A national chain known best for its silky-frosty fruit smoothies, some of which are health focused (the carrot juice and orange-berry anti-oxidant blend is one example), Jamba has added some basic breakfast (oatmeal, wraps) and lunch items (flatbread pizza and toasted sandwiches) to broaden its appeal. $ L D KAYROUZ CAFÉ 3801 Willis Ave., 896-2630. Tucked in among St. Matthews sidestreets is one of the best sandwich places in Louisville. The tuna salad, Portobello mushroom Reuben, fish, chicken and hamburger — all are innovative and all come with some of the best fries in town. $ L D f MERIDIAN CAFÉ 112 Meridian Ave., 897-9703. This little lunch spot occupies a cozy old house in St. Matthews. Service is competent and polite, the place is sparkling clean, and the luncheon-style fare is consistently fine. A selection of appetizing breakfast items rounds out a tasty mix. $ B L D f NONNIE’S KITCHEN 11601 Main St., Middletown, 245-4411. Picturesque downtown Middletown needs pleasant places for ladies to lunch, and Nonnie’s Kitchen now occupies the space that once housed Tiffany Cellars Café. A mother-son team from Chicago has hit the ground running, with a menu of soups, salads, sandwiches and desserts that have delighted early adopters. $ L f ORANGE CLOVER KITCHEN & MORE 590 Missouri Ave., Jeffersonville IN, 282-1005. Find quick breakfast and lunch items here, such as the Orange Clover muffin: poppy seed and blood orange flavors with a blood orange drizzle, as well as a cupcake version with cranberries. Two soup specials offered every day out of a recipe rotation of 75 possibilities won’t result in many repeats. $ B L QUEUE CAFÉ 220 W. Main St. (LG&E Building), 583-0273. $ B L f RIVERSIDE CAFÉ 700 W. Riverside Dr. (Sheraton Hotel), Jeffersonville IN, 284-6711. The breakfast room and bar of the Sheraton Riverside. Breakfast served until 10:30 a.m. Unwind at the bar at night. $$ B pf SHERRY’S CORNER CAFÉ 1051 Market St., Charlestown IN, 256-3722. Breakfast and lunch are served at this archetypical family eatery specializing in fresh, home-style cooking. $ L STRICKER’S CAFÉ 2781 Jefferson Centre Way, Jeffersonville IN, 218-9882. Family style restaurant serving hearty soups, salads, sandwiches, burgers, melts and breakfast too, in suburban Jeffersonville. $ B L TAKE OUT TO THE RIVER 9550 US Hwy. 42, 3652605. $ L D THE CAFÉ 712 Brent St., 637-6869. You can see the traffic on East Broadway from The Café’s serene walled patio. Choose from an eclectic breakfast and lunch menu, including old favorites like tomato dill soup and chicken salad. Or eat inside and be amused at the yard-sale look of mismatched furniture and chandeliers and doorways to nowhere, reminiscent of its former location in an antique mall. $ B Br L f THE CHEDDAR BOX 3909 Chenoweth Sq., 893-2324.

For more than 25 years this St. Matthews tradition has delighted ladies who lunch, hungry students who munch, and just about everyone else with their sandwiches, pasta salads and tasty desserts. It caters parties with almost 50 choices of appetizers, party sandwiches, dips, cheese rings and crostini. $ L f THE CHEDDAR BOX TOO 109 Chenoweth Ln., 896-1133. Cheddar Box owner Nancy Tarrant has extended her presence with a café just across the parking lot. Look for the same tasty salads, soups and desserts that have made her take-away business so popular. $ B L

VERBENA CAFÉ 10639 Meeting St., 425-0020.

This Norton Commons eatery is open early for breakfast and serves hearty lunches till midafternoon, but you can order breakfast or lunch at any of those hours. $$ B L f WILD EGGS 3985 Dutchmans Ln., 893-8005, 1311 Herr Ln., 618-2866, 153 S. English Station Rd., 6183449. Specialty omelets, the everything muffin, spicy egg salad sandwiches — these dishes and more have made Wild Eggs a wildly popular breakfast and lunch spot. Prized seats at weekend brunch can now be found at this growing mini-chain’s third outlet. $ B Br L p WILTSHIRE PANTRY BAKERY AND CAFÉ 901 Barret Ave., 581-8561. Longtime high-end caterer Susan Hershberg adds a third foodservice operation with this new bakery and café operation on the corner of Breckinridge. She and her baker, Diana Rushing, look to being another source of artisanal breads, a food item the French know there cannot be too much of. $ B L WOLFGANG PUCK EXPRESS 221 S. Fourth St., 562-0983. Bearing the name of the celeb rity Austrian chef, this downtown lunch spot in the corner of the convention center offers tasty wraps, sandwiches and soups. $$ L YAFA CAFÉ 22 Theater Sq., 561-0222. $ L D

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ZIALALA CAFÉ 12220 Shelbyville Rd., 713-5803. The owners, of Venezuelan and Italian backgrounds, tout their Middletown eatery as a “Latin café with a European flair.” The eclectic menu includes arepas, pizzettes (individual thin-crust pizzas), muffuletta, egg salad sandwiches, panini and empanadas with Chilean, Puerto Rican and Jamaican flavors. $ L D f

AMSHOFF’S FISH INN AGAIN 8402 Hudson Ln., 749-2379. If fish is your dinner wish, Amshoff’s has it fried, baked, broiled and grilled and all served with southern seasonings. There’s chicken, too, and lots of southern standard side dishes. $$ L D BONEFISH GRILL 657 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 4124666. This franchise concept from the Floridabased Outback Steakhouse chain offers impressive seafood in a comfortable setting. Add Bonefish to your short list of suburban chain eateries that do the job right. $$$ D hp CHARLESTOWN TRAIN STATION SEAFOOD 1041 Highway 62, Charlestown IN, 256-4200. A family friendly place with outdoor picnic-table seating and the kind of familiar fried fillets everyone likes. $ L D pf CLARKSVILLE SEAFOOD 916 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville IN, 283-8588. As the only surviving descendant of Louisville’s old Cape Codder chain, Clarksville Seafood upholds a long and honorable tradition.

The menu is simple — fried fish and fried seafood, served on paper trays — but it is consistently excellent and affordable. And now open until 8 p.m. most nights. $ L D EAGLE LAKE & RESTAURANT 7208 Whipple Rd., 937-7658. If you like to fish, or if you like to eat fish, you’ll likely enjoy Eagle Lake, a simple, downhome eatery in Southwestern Jefferson County.

Seafood is the specialty. Fishermen will enjoy their stocked pay-to-fish lake. Note though, it’s not possible to have your catch fried for dinner. $$ L D f FISH-FRY HOUSE 2280 Bardstown Rd., 632-2583.

The owners of Sharom’s and Zaytun also operate this fish house, serving up the crisp, fresh fried seafood that made Sharom’s an Okolona favorite. $$ L D hp THE FISH HOUSE 1310 Winter Ave., 568-2993.

Louisville is as overflowing as a well-stocked lake with fish-sandwich houses, and The Fish House is right up there with the best. Crisp breading laced

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

with black pepper is the signature of Green River fried fish from Western Kentucky. $ Br L D f THE FISHERY 3624 Lexington Rd., 895-1188, 11519 Shelbyville Rd., 409-4296. The original fried-fish eatery in a neighborhood that’s now awash with them, The Fishery remains justly popular for its quick, sizzling hot and affordable fish and seafood meals. $ L D f FISHERY STATION 5610 Outer Loop, 968-8363. $$ LD HILL STREET FISH FRY 111 E. Hill St., 636-3474.

This Old Louisville tradition is small and easy to miss, but it’s worth the effort to get by. It’s oversized fried whitefish sandwich is the flagship dish, but a varied menu is also available. $ L D f JACKSON’S SEAFOOD 400 W. Main St., New Albany IN, 945-3474. Joe Jackson, 13-year veteran of locallyfamed Clarksville Seafood, serves up fried, broiled or blackened fish, and rolled oysters. Fans of Jackson’s former employer will find many similarities in the food, but offered with customer-friendly service and rational, predictable hours. $ L D JOE’S CRAB SHACK 131 River Rd., 568-1171. The setting on the edge of Riverfront Park is bright, noisy and fun, with a wraparound deck providing a panoramic river view. $$ L D hpf KINGFISH RESTAURANT 3021 Upper River Rd., 895-0544, 1610 Kentucky Mills Dr., 240-0700, 601 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 284-3474. Fried fish in a family dining setting has made this local chain a popular favorite for many years. Two of its properties — upper River Road and Riverside Drive — boast river views. $$ L D hpfe MIKE LINNIG’S 9308 Cane Run Rd., 937-9888. Mike Linnig’s has been dishing up tasty fried fish and seafood at family prices since 1925 and remains immensely popular. There’s indoor seating and a bar, but the picnic grove with its giant shade trees makes Linnig’s a special place in season. Out of season — Nov. to Jan. — the family shutters the place and takes a nice vacation. $ L D f

CATTLEMAN’S ROADHOUSE 2001 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 384-7623, 139 Historical Trail, 543-3574.

This local outlet of the small regional chain offers mid-priced beef offerings and starters such as fried pickle chips and jalapeno poppers, grilled chicken and salmon and plenty of sandwich choices. $$$ L D hp

LONGHORN STEAKHOUSE 2535 Hurstbourne Gem Ln., 671-5350, 9700 Von Allmen Ct., 326-7500, 1210 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 284-5800, 4813 Outer Loop, 969-9790. Oversize steaks and a “big sky” western theme are the draw at this chain eatery, although most of its properties are east of the Mississippi. $$ L D hp

DEL FRISCO’S 4107 Oechsli Ave., 897-7077. Loyal Louisville beefeaters continue to fill up this 28year-old St. Matthews steakhouse, with its brick walls and beamed ceilings. Any red meat enthusiast would know to order the filet or Porterhouse, but only regulars know the glories of something called green phunque. $$$$ D hp

MORTON’S 626 W. Main St., 584-0421. This belowground temple to the red meat gods is elegant and masculine, full of wood paneling, brass rails and leather booths. Louisville reveres its home-grown restaurants but has welcomed this Chicago-based chain with open mouths. $$$$ D hp

EDDIE MERLOT’S PRIME AGED BEEF 455 S. Fourth St., (Fourth Street Live) 584-3266. The sumptuous renovation of the space at the corner of Fourth and Muhammad Ali has resulted in one of the largest dining spaces in town. The Ft. Wayne-based small chain with big ambitions boasts glittering mosaic artwork, a handsome bar opening onto Fourth Street, and luxurious seating in secluded nooks and corners. The menu focuses on high end steaks, well prepared seafood and seasonal specials. $$$$ L D hpe JEFF RUBY’S STEAKHOUSE 325 W. Main St., 5840102. This Cincinnati restaurateur has made an impact in Louisville with his outstanding steaks, glittery bar, urban vibe and top-notch service. The rooms have Churchill Downs themes. The steaks take the rail with seafood and sushi coming up fast on the outside. $$$$ D hpe LOGAN’S ROADHOUSE 5055 Shelbyville Rd., 8933884, 5229 Dixie Hwy., 448-0577, 970 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 288-9789, 1540 Alliant Ave., 266-6009. With more than 100 properties in 17 states, this Nashville-based chain parlays peanut shells on the floor and steaks on the table into a popular formula. $$ L D hp

OUTBACK STEAK HOUSE 4621 Shelbyville Rd., 8954329, 6520 Signature Dr., 964-8383, 9498 Brownsboro Rd., 426-4329, 8101 Bardstown Rd., 231-2399, 1420 Park Place, Clarksville IN, 283-4329. The name suggests Australia, and so does the shtick at this popular national chain, but the food is pretty much familiar American, and the fare goes beyond just steak to take in chicken, seafood and pasta. $$$ D hp PAT’S STEAK HOUSE 2437 Brownsboro Rd., 8969234. A local favorite for fifty years and as traditional as a steakhouse gets, Pat Francis, like his father before him, cuts the meats himself. Its combination of quality beef and hospitality rank it among the best steak houses in town. $$$$ D pf PONDEROSA STEAKHOUSE 11470 S. Preston Hwy., 964-6117. Family-style dining with the ranch theme kept alive with the open flame from the grills. An extensive buffet with hot and cold foods, salads and desserts is also available. $ L D RUTH’S CHRIS STEAKHOUSE 6100 Dutchman’s Ln., 479-0026. The Robb Report magazine has declared Rolex the world’s best watch, Armani the best men’s suit, Cohiba the best cigar and Ruth’s Chris the best restaurant. It serves an excellent steak in an atmosphere of elegance that will make you feel pampered, at a price to match. $$$$ D hpe

MITCHELL’S FISH MARKET 4031 Summit Plaza Dr., 412-1818. The decor of this upscale eatery evokes the feeling of a large fish market, with an open kitchen that offers views of chefs at work. Quality seafood and service have made Mitchell’s a popular destination. $$$ L D hpf PASSTIME FISH HOUSE 10801 Locust Rd., 267-4633.

If you are looking for an honest fish sandwich and a cold beer or two, with no frills, this southside tavern is just the ticket. Belly up, place your order, and be sure to have cash — no credit cards accepted here. $$ L D fe RUMORS RESTAURANT & RAW BAR 12339 Shelbyville Rd., 245-0366. Visualize Hooter’s without the scantily-clad waitresses, and you’ve drawn a bead on Rumor’s, the original Louisville home of the bucketof-oysters and impressive raw bar. $$ L D hpf SEAFOOD CONNECTION 12339 Shelbyville Rd., 245-0366, 3941 Chenoweth Sq., 899-5655. For well over a decade, Brian Mullaney and his crew have been retailing fresh seafood, and quietly building a loyal fan-base for their small lunch counter. Their fish tacos and seafood po’ boys pull in hungry fans from St. Matthews and places further afield. $$ L D f

CAST IRON STEAKHOUSE 1207 E. Market St., Jeffersonville IN, 590-2298, 6325 River Rd., 3847466. Buck’s owner Curtis Rader’s idea to cook steaks and sides in cast iron pans at moderate prices hit such a popular nerve that he opened two more locations on the Kentucky side of the river. The ambience of all his places is upscale with “no peanuts on the floor, antlers on the wall or country music,” Rader promises. $$$ D hpf

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

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RYAN’S FAMILY STEAKHOUSE 5338 Bardstown Rd., 491-1088. This North Carolina-based chain offers family dining with good variety: Its diverse and extensive buffet features more than 150 items. $$ L D THE ST. CHARLES EXCHANGE 113 S. Seventh St., 618-1917. The elegantly handsome renovation of a one-time hotel is a fine place to quaff a few at the long wood bar while munching on the fancy deviled eggs. The menu turns back the clock to early 1900s style food — dishes like crab Louie, shrimp cocktail, steak Diane, and coq au vin, $$$$ D hp STONEY RIVER LEGENDARY STEAK 3900 Summit Plaza Dr., 429-8944. Stoney River in the Springhurst shopping center is one of the chain’s first properties outside its Georgia home. It draws big crowds with its memorable steaks and trimmings, with extra points for friendly service and a comfortable atmosphere. $$$$ D hp TEXAS ROADHOUSE 757 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy.

(Green Tree Mall), Clarksville IN, 280-1103, 4406 Dixie Hwy., 448-0705, 6460 Dutchmans Pkwy., 897-5005, 3322 Outer Loop, 962-7600. The spirit of the West sets the theme for this popular steak house. Salads, vegetables and breads with hearty side dishes round out your meal options. This is family-style dining, with no tray sliding — service at your table. $$ L D hp

A NICE RESTAURANT 3129 Blackiston Mill Rd., New Albany IN, 945-4321, 2784 Meijer Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 280-9160, 404 Lafollette Station, Floyds Knobs IN, 923-7770. A Nice Restaurant, billed as “New Albany’s Finer Diner,” is, well, nice enough to have launched two more branches. All specialize in simple, down-home breakfast and lunch at affordable prices. $ B L APPLEBEE’S (6 locations) This cheery national chain features an eclectic assortment of salads, steaks, ribs, poultry and pasta as well as full bar service. It’s as consistent as a cookie cutter, but competent execution makes it a good bargain for those whose tastes run to mainstream American cuisine. $$ L D hp ASPEN CREEK RESTAURANT 8000 Bardstown Rd., 239-2200. The entrepreneur who created Texas Roadhouse and Buckhead’s is back with a concept that’s both old and new — a lodge-style restaurant that invokes the rustic feel of the Rockies, and offers a menu of pastas, burgers, and poultry at prices that aren’t mountain high. $$ L D hp B.J.’S RESTAURANT & BREWHOUSE 7900 Shelbyville Rd.(Oxmoor Mall), 326-3850. This Southern California chain arrived east of the Mississippi, including a large and imposing brewhouse at Oxmoor Mall. A full range of made-in-Nevada craft beers is dispensed, along with upscale-casual pub grub. $$ L D hp BLUE HORSE CAFÉ 830 Phillips Ln. (Crown Plaza Hotel), 367-2251. $$$ L D hp BLUEGRASS BURGERS 3334 Frankfort Ave., 6146567. Four women restaurateurs have partnered to offer a gourmet burger concept. Choose your burger — grass-fed Kentucky beef or bison, tuna or veggie (or grilled chicken, cheese steak or franks) — and then head for the topping bar. $ L D f BRICKHOUSE TAVERN & TAP 871 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 326-3182. Brickhouse, a Houston-based chain, has upgraded its image with an increased focus on food. Serving brunch, lunch and dinner, with a half-dozen local beers on tap, and an unusual menu of beer cocktails. $$ L D hpf BUCKHEAD MOUNTAIN GRILL 3020 Bardstown Rd., 456-6680, 707 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN 284-2919, 10206 Westport Rd., 339-0808. The deck of the riverfront location in Jeffersonville, with its view across the river, is a great place for a 60 Fall 2013 www.foodanddine.com

lazy summer meal, when the familiarity of allAmerican fare like meat loaf, pot pies, steak or ribs and a couple of cold ones is all you want. The big square bars in all three locations, with multiple TV screens, make for excellent sports viewing as well. $$ L D hpf BUNZ RESTAURANT 969 1/2 Baxter Ave., 632-1132.

This little Highlands made-to-order gourmet hamburger shop concocts quality burgers with a range of standard and oddball toppings. $ L D hf CAFÉ MAGNOLIA 140 N. Fourth St. (Galt House), 589-5200. The Galt House’s quick and casual secondfloor dining alternative, this spacious venue offers a range of fare for guests on the go, from bacon and eggs to a late-night burger and fries. $$$ L D hp CAPTAIN’S QUARTERS 5700 Captain’s Quarters Rd., 228-1651. One of the city’s most attractive eateries for atmosphere, Captain’s Quarters matches the beautiful setting with quality bistro-style fare that won’t disappoint. Summer or winter, it’s a delightful place to dine. $$ Br L D pfe CARDINAL HALL OF FAME CAFÉ 2745 Crittenden Dr., 635-8686. This oversize eatery at Gate 4 of the Kentucky Fair & Exposition Center celebrates U of L sports with a “walk of fame” loaded with awards, photos, game balls and lots more Cardinal memorabilia. What? You want food too? Sure! Casual American dining features everything from a “Cardinal Burger” to steaks and prime rib. $ L D hp CHAMPIONS GRILL 505 Marriott Dr. (Holiday Inn), Clarksville IN, 283-4411. Known by locals for its Saturday night buffet of New York strip, ribeye and prime rib. Salads, sandwiches, soups and a kid-friendly menu round out the selection. $$ B Br L D pe CHEDDAR’S CASUAL CAFÉ 10403 Westport Rd., 339-5400, 3521 Outer Loop, 966-3345, 1385 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 280-9660. This popular Dallas-based chain draws big, hungry crowds with its large bar and familiar “casual to upscale American” fare. $ L D hpf CHILI’S 421 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 425-6800, 3623 Bardstown Rd., 301-8888, 11600 Antonia Way, 3018181, 9720 Von Allmen Ct., 301-8880. More than just a place to chow down on baby back ribs, this national chain has a wide selection including fajitas, burgers, sandwiches and veggies. $$ L D hp CHOCOLATE MARTINI BAR 1106 Lyndon Ln. (Westport Village), 384-1384. This unique combination of a creperie, martini bar, sandwich, lunch and dinner spot and dessert bar allows you to get a banana split crepe and a creme brulee martini, a Reuben or fried baloney sandwich in the same sitting. Desserts and ice cream can be ordered to go. $$$ L D hpfe CHOP SHOP SALADS 436 W. Market St., 589-2467, 126 Breckinridge Ln., 384-4252. The two-handed mezzalunas rock steady as the line cooks chop up lettuce, vegetables and meats into hearty salads or wraps. Mostly a to-go place with limited seating, the steady lunchtime crowds attest that office workers see a need for fresh light lunch fare. $ L D CHRISTOPHER’S 1250 Bardstown Rd., 451-0589.

This “laid back, cozy” place has set up shop at the western end of Mid City Mall in City Café’s old slot. The menu has an Italian feel with flatbread pizzas, pastas, and fresh local vegetables. Open for lunch and dinner with take-out and delivery too.

Get a 10% discount with your Baxter Theater movie stub. $$ L D hp COACH LAMP RESTAURANT 751 Vine St., 5839165. The restored 137-year-old building has gone through some remodeling this winter, and Jerome Pope, 10 year veteran of The Brown Hotel, has returned with a revamped menu. He is serving up modern American fare, things like house-made soups, braised rabbit, and a sizzling chicken dish. $$$ L D pf

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

CULVER’S 4630 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 671-2001.

When the trademark item is called a “ButterBurger” and frozen custard tops the dessert menu, you know you’re not in for diet fare. Quality fast food and friendly service make this chain a popular East End spot. $ L D f CUNNINGHAM’S 630 S. Fourth St., 587-0526, 6301 Upper River Rd., 228-3625. Whether you drop in at the downtown location across from the Palace, or scoot out to the Harrod’s Creek outlet, you will find fine fish sandwiches and pub grub, and absorb some of the nostalgia associated with this longtime favorite. $ Br L D hpf DECKERS GRILLED SANDWICHES 2350 Greene Way, 491-3114. A burgeoning chain launched by White Castle sells hot soups, pressed sandwiches (the four cheese and bacon Decker sounds great) and desserts, as well as salads at affordable prices.

No “sliders” here, but comparable prices. $ L D h FAMOUS MIKE’S STEAK & LEMONADE 3052 Wilson Ave., 618-0102. At first a curious culinary combination — steak and lemonade — but this little nearWest End place is a gem offering an eclectic range of quick comfort foods: chicken gizzard baskets, pizza rolls, cheese steaks, burgers and subs. $ L D h FIVE GUYS BURGERS & FRIES 2221 State Street, New Albany IN, 944-9958, 4116 Summit Plaza Dr., 426-1702. Based in Virginia, this burger chain invokes the early days of fast food with freshly-grilled burgers, big, smoky Kosher dogs, enough condiments to satisfy any craving, fresh-cut fries that are out of this world and a cheery rock’n’roll sensibility. $ L D GAME 2295 Lexington Rd., 618-1772. The guys behind Hammerhead’s have opened a build-your-own-burger joint in a funky, off-the-directly-beaten-path place once home to Cycler’s Café. Unique burger choices are made from ground duck, lamb, venison, antelope and wild boar. Bun choices range from brioche to pretzel to Kaiser roll. Toppings include smoked truffle mayo, cranberry-jalapeno jam, and pesto — you get the idea. Much fun, so far. $$ D f GARAGE BAR 700 E. Market St., 749-7100. Housed in a former service station in NuLu, Garage Bar serves up draft and bottled craft beers, Bourbons, seasonal cocktails and wine, pizzas from a woodfired brick oven and Southern specialties, with an emphasis on fresh, local ingredients. The ham flight is not to be missed. $$$ D hpf GOOSE CREEK DINER 2923 Goose Creek Rd., 3398070. Goose Creek Diner offers old-fashioned comfort food, as the name “diner” suggests, but transcendently adds a gourmet taste to the down-home eats. $ B Br L D GRADY’S BURGERS AND WINGS 3825 Taylor Blvd., 361-1106. The name says most of what you need to know. Ten flavors of wings, breaded, fried and sauced.

The hot wings and the honey BBQ are the biggest sellers. Deli sandwiches and gyros too. $ L D f GREEN LEAF NATURAL VEGETARIAN BISTRO 309 W. Cardinal Blvd., 637-5887. Green Leaf serves up vegetarian fare in the new town center of University of Louisville. The menu has a pan-Asian focus, with noodles and fried rice and stir fries, as well as smoothies and bubble tea. $ L D HOME RUN BURGERS & FRIES 2060 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 409-7004, 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 365-3388, 12949 Shelbyville Rd., 384-8403, 303 W. Cardinal Blvd., 708-1818. Burgers, dogs and fries and drinks with a baseball theme highlight this suburban spot, and more than 20 toppings offer you a fielder’s choice of options to dress your burger. $ L D f HOOTERS 4120 Dutchmans Ln., 895-7100, 4948 Dixie Hwy., 449-4194, 7701 Preston Hwy., 968-1606, 700 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 218-9485, 941 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 284-9464.

Hooter’s may draw crowds with its long-standing reputation as a party scene, but you’ll stay for the

food, an appetizing selection of soups, salads, seafood and, of course, wings. $ L D hpfe INTERNATIONAL HOUSE OF PANCAKES 1220 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 285-1772, 1401 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 618-2250. IHOP fans can choose to go out to the East End or across the river to satisfy their jones for the national chain’s inimitable food. $ B L D h JOE & KATHY’S PLACE 5408 Valley Station Rd., 935-5323. This family-run, home-cooking-fromscratch place has developed a loyal following among the Valley Station locals. The menu supplies expected standards like fried chicken, biscuits and gravy, but contemporary offerings like vegetable panini and pork tenderloin sandwich with pesto mayo are available, too. $ B L D JOE’S OLDER THAN DIRT 8131 New Lagrange Rd., 426-2074. Going strong after many years in this Lyndon location, Joe’s has gradually grown from a little house to a sprawling complex of indoor and outdoor tables with live music many evenings.

Excellent barbecue is a specialty, and so is ice-cold beer. $ L D hpfe KAREM’S 9424 Norton Commons Blvd., 327-5646.

Karem’s Grill & Pub, one of the first restaurants to open in the village-like Norton Commons, carries the look and feel of a neighborhood watering hole inside and out. The test of a restaurant, though, is the food, and Karem’s is excellent. $$ L D h KERN’S KORNER 2600 Bardstown Rd., 456-9726.

This family-owned tavern has been a popular neighborhood pit stop since 1978. Kern’s offers freshly made ham, chicken salad sandwiches and burgers, as well as a menu of soups, chilis and appetizers. $ L D pf LEGENDS Horseshoe Casino Hotel, Elizabeth IN, 888-766-2648. The hot and cold short orders are served up with riverboat hospitality, but in a Las Vegas atmosphere. A well stocked bar and a live stage welcome the best of regional and visiting national acts. $$ L D hpe MANHATTAN GRILL 429 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 561-0024. $ B L MIMI’S CAFÉ 615 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 426-6588.

This California chain, a subsidiary of Bob Evans, goes urban and upscale where farmer Bob is folksy and country. This East End outlet has developed a following beyond those familiar with it from other locations. $$ B Br L D hpf THE MONKEY WRENCH 1025 Barret Ave., 582-2433.

A popular spot in the urban neighborhood where the Highlands meet Germantown, The Monkey Wrench offers comfort food with a stylish spin, top flight music, a relaxed ambience and welcoming service. A rooftop patio packs them in on warm evenings. $ L D hpfe MULLIGAN’S PUB AND GRILL 1801 Newburg Rd., 632-2818. Neighborhood institution Kaelin’s is gone, but Mulligans’ now holds down the fort. Although the “If you can’t stop, please wave sign” is still outside, inside, wood-paneled walls, a new horseshoeshaped bar and vintage wooden golf clubs show that a new game is afoot. The beer list now includes BBC craft beers and Irish imports. The menu is geared toward hearty sandwiches, pizza and steak and shrimp entrées. $$ L D hpf NEIL & PATTY’S FIRESIDE BAR & GRILL 7611 IN 311, Sellersburg IN, 246-5456. A family owned and operated outpost up the road a piece, long known for their warm and welcoming, down-home atmosphere, has expanded their craft beer selection. The local cognoscenti know they can also find excellent pastas, steaks, seafood, and salads. Homemade soups are created daily. Coffee and desserts are always made fresh. Breakfast served until 2 p.m. $$ Br L D p NEW ALBANY ROADHOUSE 1702 Graybrook Rd., New Albany IN, 981-7777. $$ L D hp

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

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O’CHARLEY’S (6 locations) O’Charley’s, Inc. could serve well as the picture in the dictionary next to “American casual dining.” The Nashville-based chain operates 206 properties in 16 states in the Southeast and Midwest, serving a straightforward steak-andseafood menu with the motto “Mainstream with an attitude.” $$ Br L D hp OTTO’S CAFÉ 500 S. Fourth St. (Seelbach Hilton Hotel), 585-3201. Southern cooking with gourmet flair makes Otto’s an intriguing alternative to the Seelbach’s more upscale Oakroom. Check out the Southern Breakfast Buffet and Executive Express Lunch Buffet. $$BBr L PEPPERS BAR & GRILL 320 W. Jefferson St. (Hyatt Regency), 587-3434. This newly renovated casualdining facility in the Hyatt Regency offers a full dinner menu for hotel guests and outside visitors as well. $$ D hp PHILLY STEAK & BURGER 1578 Bardstown Rd., 451-6768. What once was the funky Ray’s Monkey House is now a streamlined space with modern décor, with open ceilings and a spiffy new back deck. On the menu are Philly cheesesteaks, burgers (including veggie versions), wraps, four hot dog choices, salads and sides. $$ L D hpf QUAD CAFÉ 103 Quartermaster Ctr., Jeffersonville IN, 282-7823. Bistro dining in the always-changing Quartermaster Center in Jeffersonville. Expect a broad lineup of gourmet burgers, flat bread pizzas, an oyster bar on Friday and Saturday nights, daily lunch specials and a full bar. $ L Dpf RAFFERTY’S OF LOUISVILLE 988 Breckenridge Ln., 897-3900. 3601 Springhurst Blvd., 412-9000. This full-service, casual dining establishment has a hearty menu. Specialties like Red Alfredo Pasta showcase the gourmet offerings along with some of the largest and most creative salad combinations in town. $$ L D hpf RAISING CANE’S 10490 Westport Rd., 425-4040. A national chain with a single core product — chicken fingers. This replacement for the old Twister’s Custard brings simple and straightforward fried chicken finger combos and sandwiches with slaw and fries on the side. $ L D f RED ROBIN GOURMET BURGERS 9870 Von Allmen Ct., 339-8616, 5000 Shelbyville Rd., 899-9001.

This Seattle-based chain serves up its well regarded “gourmet burgers” and trimmings in two East End locations. Despite a full bar, it reportedly attracts hordes of happy youngsters. $$ L D hpf ROOSTER’S 7405 Preston Hwy., 964-9464, 4420 Dixie Hwy., 384-0330, 1601 Greentree Blvd., Clarksville IN, 590-3391. This Columbus-based wings-andbrews chain conquered Ohio and is now spreading its franchise wings across the Eastern U.S. Its first three Louisville properties have gained popularity for a lively sports bar setting and oversize wings. $ L D hpf RUBY TUESDAY 11701 Bluegrass Pkwy., 267-7100, 1354 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 288-5010. If success demonstrates quality, then Ruby Tuesday’s 600 international properties and 30,000 employees can stand up with pride. They’ve been upholding the slogan “Awesome Food. Serious Salad Bar” in Louisville for a generation. $$ L D hp THE RUDYARD KIPLING 422 W. Oak St., 636-1311.

The word “eclectic” fits this Old Louisville eatery in just about every dimension, from its funky decor to its diverse bill of fare, not to mention an array of entertainment that bridges the generations from Generation X’ers to aging hippies. The owners are scaling back, though, and opening only on Fridays and Saturdays. $ D hp SAM’S FOOD & SPIRITS 3800 Payne Kohler Rd., Clarksville IN, 945-9757, 702 Highlander Point Dr., Floyds Knobs IN, 923-2323. Sam Anderson has been feeding an army of happy diners at both locations for almost two decades now. Both 62 Fall 2013 www.foodanddine.com

Clarksville and Floyd’s Knobs addresses offer his extensive and child friendly menu.$$ L D hp SAM’S HOT DOG STAND 1991 Brownsboro Rd., 259-7587. Early adopters speak highly of this new little shop in lower Clifton. Substantial hotdogs and rave-worthy pulled pork BBQ at reasonable prices are drawing in happy customers. $ L D SHONEY’S 6511 Signature Dr., 969-8904, 9921 Ormsby Station Rd., 423-6388. For nearly 50 years, Shoney’s restaurants have been one of America’s top choices for fast roadside dining, and happily they’ve kept up with the times. $ B L D SKYLINE CHILI 1266 Bardstown Rd., 473-1234, 9980 Linn Station Rd., 429-5773, 4024 Dutchmans Ln., 721-0093, 6801 Dixie Hwy., 937-4020. Louisville’s outposts of a famous Cincinnati chili restaurant, these casual eateries offer the regional favorite (really it’s Greek spaghetti sauce, but keep it quiet) and other fast-food dishes. $ L D h SMASHBURGER 9409 Shelbyville Rd., 326-4141, 312 S. Fourth St., 583-1500. A growing chain located mostly in the West and the South now has two Kentucky locations serving made-to-order Angus beef burgers, and is looking to open up to four more locations. $ L D f STEAK N SHAKE 3232 Bardstown Rd., 456-2670, 4913 Dixie Hwy., 448-4400, 4545 Outer Loop, 966-3109, 2717 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-3397, 10721 Fischer Park Dr., 326-3625, 980 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN., 285-1154. One of the oldest fast-food chains in the U.S., Steak N Shake traces its ancestry to an Illinois roadside stand in 1934. It now boasts 400 outlets in 19 states but still sticks to the basics: quality steak burgers and hand-dipped shakes served, if you dine in, on real china. $ B L D h SUPERCHEF’S BREAKFAST 2317 Brownsboro Rd., 895-3270, 3941 Chenoweth Sq., 899-5655. Inside Chicago Gyro and The Seafood Connection you will find Sullivan grads Darnell Ferguson and Ryan Bryson offering an ambitious morning menu including beignets and coffee, granola-encrusted French toast, red velvet pancakes and peanut butter and jelly oatmeal. $ B f

TUCKER’S 2441 State St., New Albany IN, 944-9999.

Tucker’s gives you a little bit of everything with a down-to-earth flair, offering burgers, ribs, steaks, a variety of appetizers and pastas. $ L D hp TWIG & LEAF RESTAURANT 2122 Bardstown Rd., 451-8944. A popular Highlands hangout, the “Twig” is probably at its best for breakfast — whether you’re enjoying it while venturing out on a leisurely Sunday morning or heading home very late on a Saturday night. It’s a place to grab a quick, filling bite, and doesn’t pretend to be more. $ B L D h THE WING ZONE 905 Hess Ln., 636-2445. Another wings emporium situated to catch the fancy of U of L fans, Wing Zone excels with jumbo wings in 25 flavors, including traditional Buffalo-style wings that range from Mild to Nuclear. $ L D hf ZAXBY’S 2740 Allison Ln., Jeffersonville IN, 920-0080, 807 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 742-8600, 5025 Mud Ln., 632-1400, 2870 Technology Ave., New Albany IN, 725-7484. They have been all around us out in the state, but now Louisville and Southern Indiana have their own Zaxby’s, the casual dining chain that cutens its menu with a lot of “z’s”: zappetizers, zalads, platterz, wings and fingerz — that sort of thing. $ L D h

BARBARA LEE’S KITCHEN 2410 Brownsboro Rd., 897-3967. Barbara Lee’s has been a late-night refuge for years. It’s a reliable standby for those in search of traditional blue-plate special lunch food. Honest grub, honestly priced, in a rootsy atmosphere. $ B L D h BIG MOMMA’S SOUL KITCHEN 4532 W. Broadway, 772-9580. Big Momma’s may be the most hospitable place in the West End to get genuine soul food. A different main course is featured daily, all homecooked food, including such goodies as baked chicken, smothered pork chops, meat loaf, catfish … and fried chicken every day. $ L D CHECK’S CAFÉ 1101 E. Burnett Ave., 637-9515. You can whiff a scent of Louisville history coming off the old walls of this quintessential Germantown saloon, along with years of frying grease. The bar food here is about as good as bar food gets, and that’s not bad. The chili and the bean soup are particularly recommended. $ L D pf

TACO PUNK 736 E. Market St., 584-8226. Gabe Sowder, formerly of 610 Magnolia, set out on his own serving funky tacos at the Douglass Loop Farmer’s Market.

But now the Iron Chef alum (he was part of Edward Lee’s 2010 winning team) has taken over the old Toast on Market space to continue his exploration of everyone’s favorite “Mexican” food. House-made tortillas packed with ingredients ranging from traditional to the unique — duck, lamb and chorizo — make up the bill of fare. $ L D hf

THE CHICKEN HOUSE 7180 Hwy. 111, Sellersburg IN, 246-9485. The parking lot of this white frame building in rural Indiana is packed on weekend nights as families from throughout the area wait on delectable fried chicken. This is the very heart of American comfort food, including green beans, dumplings, and mashed potatoes. $$ L D

TGI FRIDAY’S 416 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live), 585-3577. The original place to loosen the tie and congregate after the whistle blows. TGIF carries on its party atmosphere tradition with American bistro dining and libations. The bill of fare ranges from baskets of appetizers on up to contemporary entrées. $$ L D hpf

COTTAGE CAFÉ 11609 Main St., Middletown, 2449497. This nostalgic old house in the countryside offers a taste of Kentucky-style cookery in an array of lunch specials that range from homemade soups and sandwiches to the traditional Hot Brown. $ L

THAT PLACE ON GOSS 946 Goss Ave., 409-5409.

Located inside the Antique Mall in the old textile mill, That Place serves hearty and cleverly tweaked lunch fare and Sunday brunch. They are especially fond of their Meaty Jack, a meatloaf sandwich, grilled and topped with Jack cheese and their special sauce. Art on the walls is from friends at Mellwood Art Center, where owners Amy and William Enix initially started. $ Br L TOAST ON MARKET 620 E. Market St., 569-4099, 141 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 941-8582. On both sides of the river this breakfast and lunch favorite has gained a loyal following and tremendous word-of-mouth. Be prepared to wait for tables for weekend brunches. $ B Br L pf

CHICKEN KING 639 E. Broadway, 589-5464. Spicy, crunchy and sizzling hot fried chicken is the primary draw on a short, affordable menu. $ L D h

COTTAGE INN 570 Eastern Pkwy., 637-4325. Longtime neighborhood fixture Cottage Inn has a bright new look, and continues happily doling out the kind of excellent down-home food it has served for more than 70 years. $ L D D’NALLEY’S 970 S. Third St., 588-2003. Dirt-cheap blueplate specials and hearty breakfasts bring droves to this classic greasy spoon. Saturday morning hours are sporadic, but for a quick plate of meat loaf, green beans, and mashed potatoes, D’Nalley’s is a hard place to beat. $ B L D DAVE & PEG’S COPPER KETTLE 276 Main Cross St., Charlestown IN, 256-4257. $ B L D DRE’LYNNS SOUL FOOD KITCHEN 5019 Poplar Level Rd., 384-7685. $$ L D

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

FOOD 4 UR SOUL 612 S. Fifth St., 614-6363. This corner space at Fifth and Chestnut offers up soulful favorites: fried catfish, rib tips, pork chops (grilled, smothered, or fried), sweet potato casserole, fried mac and cheese, and fried bologna sandwiches. $$ L D FORTY ACRES AND A MULE RESTAURANT 1800 Dixie Hwy., 776-5600. $ L D FRANCO’S RESTAURANT & CATERING 3300 Dixie Hwy., 448-8044. Long-time fans of Jay’s Cafeteria — including politicians and national entertainers — are no longer bereft. Jay’s former owners serve up Southern Soul food in Shively at family-friendly prices.

Look for smothered pork chops, collard greens, fried chicken, fried catfish and fruit cobbler. $ L D FRONTIER DINER 7299 Dixie Hwy., 271-3663. The name “diner” says it all, and this friendly neighborhood spot on Dixie Highway delivers just what you’d expect in down-home comfort fare. The word on the street, though, is simple: Go for the pancakes. They’re worth a special trip. $ L D GOLDEN CORRAL 4032 Taylorsville Rd., 485-0004, 8013 Preston Hwy., 966-4970, 1402 Cedar St., Clarksville IN. 258-2540. Buffet style family dining — one price, all you can eat. Steaks are served beginning at 4 p.m. $ B L D HAZELWOOD RESTAURANT 4106 Taylor Blvd., 3619104. Whether you like your eggs over easy, or your cheeseburgers well done, you’ll like the Hazelwood Restaurant. Standard short orders cooked with lots of character and a low price. $ B L D HOMETOWN BUFFET 1700 Alliant Ave., 267-7044, 6641 Dixie Hwy., 995-3320. This chain serves up nostalgic dishes, casseroles, meats and desserts that allow you to set an all-American supper table with the all-you-can eat price tag. $ B L D INDI’S RESTAURANT 1033 W. Broadway, 589-7985, 3820 W. Market St., 778-5154, 2901 Fern Valley Rd., 969-7993, 5009 S. Third St., 363-2535, 2970 Tenth St., Jeffersonville IN, 288-8980, 1085 Market St., Charlestown IN, 256-3780. Grown from a tiny West End takeout spot to a mini-chain, Indi’s vends a variety of affordable soul food and barbecue specialties to take out or eat in. $ L D h

cooked in a cast iron skillets. Pig’s feet and chicken wings and collards, all seasoned with Shirley Mae Beard’s spice rack — salt and pepper. $ L D

build-your-own sandwiches, a soup-and-salad bar, and specialty bars featuring baked potatoes, and a monthly ethnic creation. $ L

SOUL FOOD BY TIFFANY 701 Algonquin Pkwy., 7274115. $ L D

HALL’S CAFETERIA 1301 Story Ave., 583-0437. Doing a brisk business on the steam tables since 1955, they attract customers from Butchertown’s truck loading docks and from offices downtown. $ B L D

TERRI ANN’S 2605 Rockford Ln., 449-9026. A homestyle restaurant in Shively serving eggs, taters, sandwiches, barbecue and soul food for breakfast, lunch and dinner. $ B Br L D WAGNER’S PHARMACY 3113 S. Fourth St., 375-3800.

A track-side institution that has as much history as the nearby Twin Spires of Churchill Downs. Soups, sandwiches, shakes, cherry Cokes and an early bird “trainer’s” breakfast can be enjoyed all year round.

Racing history on the walls and servers who’ll call you “hon.” $ B L WEBB’S MARKET 944 E. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 5830318. An old-line neighborhood corner grocery store houses a delicious secret: At the back you’ll find a steam table loaded with exceptional comfort food. Fried chicken is excellent, and don’t miss the chili. $ B L

ANN’S BY THE RIVER 149 Spring St., Jeffersonville IN, 284-2667. This bustling eatery is cafeteria style dining done well. They serve up the standard steam table meat-and-three menu items as good as any. With the Ohio River a block away, it’s aptly named. $ L D THE BISTRO 3701 Frankfort Ave., 714-5586. A gem hidden away in The Olmsted, on the Masonic Home grounds in St. Matthews. This spot has earned terrific word-of-mouth buzz. Soups, sandwiches, salads, pastas are the mainstay of the menu, with a four-item lunch buffet that changes weekly. $ B Br L D f CRAVINGS A LA CARTE 101 S. Fifth St. (National City Tower), 589-4230. This thrifty deli offers a variety of

JANE’S CAFETERIA 4601 Jennings Ln., 454-7286. This 40-year-old family-owned restaurant knows how to cook for folks missing their home table. Count on an attentive staff and fresh southern fare. $ B L LANCASTER’S CAFETERIA 408 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN. Troy Lancaster, the grandson of Southern Indiana catering king Tommy Lancaster, recalls the family’s culinary heritage with this family-friendly buffet-style cafeteria. $ L D PICCADILLY CAFETERIA 2131 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 493-9900. An east end favorite for variety, Piccadilly offers roast beef, fried chicken, cod, steak and shrimp dinners, a gardener’s list of vegetables and a few ethnic dishes for global measure. $ L D

THE BARD’S TOWN 1801 Bardstown Rd., 749-5275.

On the ground floor a 60-seat restaurant and 30-seat lounge. On the second floor is the 70-seat Bard’s Town Theatre home to a resident troupe dedicated to producing new works from Kentucky playwrights and beyond, to other theatre, poetry and musical acts from around the country. Food and beverage service, but it’s not a dinner theater. $$ Br D hpfe DERBY DINNER PLAYHOUSE 525 Marriott Dr., Clarksville IN, 288-8281. The play’s the thing at Derby Dinner, Louisville’s long-running entry in the dinner-theater sweepstakes. The expansive seasonal buffet offerings have fans returning show after show. $$$$ L D pe

KING’S FRIED CHICKEN 1302 Dixie Hwy., 776-3013. $LDh KUM’S KAFE 4125 Preston Hwy., 964-6336. Crispy fried chicken and fried catfish, as well as daily Asian specialties. $ L MISS C’S KITCHEN & PANTRY 1319 Story Ave., 759-1085, 308 W. Chestnut St., 992-3166. You will find traditional recipes using locally-sourced foods, such as pimento cheese made with Kenny’s white cheddar and tuna salad using the recipe from Stewart’s Orchid Room at both locations. $$ L NANA’S COUNTRY KITCHEN 5300 Cane Run Rd., 384-6525. When you want home-style cooking, you will want it like it is served here. Breakfast all day, lunch and dinner too. The regulars like the meatloaf and the chicken fried steak. $ B L D O’DOLLYS 7800 Third St. Rd., 375-1690. Homestyle steam-table favorites, available from breakfast to dinner, not to mention full bar service that makes O’Dollys a Southwest Louisville destination. $ B L D hp SHELIA’S SOUTHERN STYLE CUISINE 2017 Brownsboro Rd., 893-8855. A family owned and family friendly place making scratch traditional southern family dishes. The ribs and two sides is the most expensive item on the menu at $12.95.

Look for catfish too, and collards on the side choices. Daily $6 lunch specials. $ L D SHIRLEY MAE’S CAFÉ 802 Clay St., 589-5295. This Smoketown institution draws hungry locals as well as celebrities in town hungry for the soul food of their youth. BBQ ribs, and hot-water cornbread

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HOWL AT THE MOON 434 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live), 562-9400. What’ll they think of next?

How about a nightclub featuring a “dueling” piano bar with two pianos and a sing-along concept?

You’ll find this 4,000-square-foot club at Fourth Street Live on the ground level. $ D hpfe INCREDIBLE DAVE’S 9236 Westport Rd., 426-4790.

“Awesome dining, extreme fun, where family fun hits maximum overdrive” is the promise at this giant dining and entertainment venue. It’s not just for kids: an upscale menu in a signature dining room is at the center of it all. $$ L D hp JOE HUBER FAMILY FARM & RESTAURANT 2421 Scottsville Rd., Starlight IN, 923-5255. A pleasant 20-minute drive from downtown Louisville, Huber’s has built a solid reputation for simple farm fare that’s well-made, fresh and good. Some of the produce is grown on the premises in season. $$$ L D pf MY OLD KENTUCKY DINNER TRAIN 602 N. Third St., Bardstown KY, (502) 348-7300. Talk about a nostalgia trip: My Old Kentucky Dinner Train offers a four-course meal during a two-hour voyage along scenic Kentucky railroad tracks near Bardstown in vintage 1940s-era dining cars. Reservations are strongly recommended. $$$$ L D p

ACHILLES PIZZA 1730 Williamsburg Sq., Jeffersonville IN, 288-8882. $$ L D h ANGILO’S PIZZA 1725 Berry Blvd., 368-1032. The local favorite is the steak hoagie, dripping with pizza sauce, pickles and onions. Angilo’s also offers a wide selection of hot pizza pies and cold beer. $$ L D ANGIO’S RESTAURANT 3731 Old Bardstown Rd., 4515454. This small Buechel eatery attracts a friendly neighborhood crowd with hefty subs and quality pizzas, along with cold beer. $$ L D

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ANNIE’S PIZZA 2520 Portland Ave., 776-6400, 4771 Cane Run Rd., 449-4444. Annie’s has made-toorder pizza and a variety of stacked sandwiches such as the Big Daddy Strom with beef, Italian sausage, onions and banana peppers. $$ L D h ARNI’S PIZZA 1208 State St., New Albany IN, 9451149, 3700 Paoli Pike, Floyds Knobs IN, 923-9805.

A favorite Hoosier pizza and sandwich stop. Insist on getting the Deluxe. $$ L D h ARNO’S PIZZA 3912 Bardstown Rd., 384-8131.$$ L D BEARNO’S PIZZA (12 locations) What began as a simple, family-run pizzeria near Bowman Field has morphed into a local chain with, at last count, 13 locations. $$ L D h BONNIE & CLYDE’S PIZZA 7611 Dixie Hwy., 9355540. It may look like a dive that hasn’t been renovated in ages, the service can be surly at times, and you have to pay in cash, but devoted fans of its thin-crust pizzas and hoagies keep coming back and talk it up with their friends. $$ L D h BOOMBOZZ FAMOUS PIZZA 3400 Frankfort Ave., 896-9090. This handsome space at the corner of Frankfort and Cannons Lane is another idiosyncratic link in the Boombozz chain. The taphousestyle menu of pastas and sandwiches along with award-winning pies carves its own niche with bottled beer exclusively. $$ B Br L D hf BOOMBOZZ PIZZA BISTRO 12613 Taylorsville Rd., 261-0222. Boombozz wins praise for exceptionally high quality pizza and other quick Italian-style fare. Tony’s pizzas include both traditional pies and gourmet-style specialties that have won awards in national competition. $$ L D hp BOOMBOZZ PIZZA & TAP HOUSE 1448 Bardstown Rd., 458-8889, 1315 Herr Ln., 394-0000, 1450 Veterans Pkwy., Jeffersonville IN. The Boombozz Pizza empire has expanded in concept, and the menu now extends into appetizers, sandwiches and

pasta, and 21 craft beers on tap. The Highlands location boasts one of the only “frost bars” in the area — a refrigerated rail designed to keep your brew cool. $$ L D hpf BORROMEO’S PIZZA 9417 Smyrna Pkwy., 9687743. Serving up old-school thin-crust pizzas to chowhounds south of the Gene Snyder. $$ L D h CALIFORNIA PIZZA KITCHEN 7900 Shelbyville Rd. (Oxmoor Mall), 425-5125. California pizza became a trend when famous chefs gave this simple Italian fare a multi-ethnic spin with non-traditional Pacific Rim toppings. CPK successfully translates this trend for the mass market. $$ L D pf CHARLESTOWN PIZZA COMPANY 850 Main St., Charlestown IN, 256-2699. This welcoming venue on Charlestown’s town square, a short trip upriver from Jeffersonville, is run by folks who learned their pizza and beer at New Albanian Brewing Company. That’s a fine pedigree, and it shows in impressive quality. $$ L D CHEEZY’S PIZZA 801 E. Market St., Jeffersonville IN, 288-8500. Fans of the former Tubby’s Pizza and owner Tubby Muncy can smile again. He’s back in the kitchen in a little local pizza joint just east of downtown J’ville, serving up well crafted traditional pies whole or by the slice. $$ L D h CLIFTON’S PIZZA 2230 Frankfort Ave., 893-3730.

One of the originators of “Louisville style” of pizza, with additional toppings placed over the cheese.

The venerable Clifton’s Pizza appeals with its adult style, full of the bold flavors of herbs and spices and available with grown-up toppings like anchovies and artichoke hearts. $$ L D hpe COALS ARTISAN PIZZA 3730 Frankfort Ave., 7428200. The coal-fired oven bakes at 1000 degrees F, charring and crisping the crust in 4 minutes. The dough rises for three days, making for a lighter, more developed crust. Topping are fresh, regionallysourced, with specialty concepts. Look for local

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

craft beers and house-made soups and salads in addition to pizzas. $$ L D hpf DANNY MAC’S PASTA & PIZZA 1567 S. Shelby St., 635-7994. $$ L D h DIORIO’S PIZZA & PUB 310 Wallace Ave., 6183424, 917 Baxter Ave., 614-8424. With a second location now, Highlands’ as well as St. Matthews’ residents can savor pizza by the slice, as well as by the mammoth 30-inch pie. Also grilled sandwiches, salads, wings, and queso sticks, and a good selection of domestic and import beers. $$ L D

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FX PIZZA 4865 Old Vincennes Rd., Floyds Knobs IN, 903-0086. The Newton brothers of Southern Indiana, veterans of the corporate chain pizza world, have named their own pizzeria after their grandfather, Francis Xavier. In addition to hand-tossed thincrust, New York-style pies, FX offers chicken wings and breadsticks, and its owners are planning a nine-hole miniature golf course. $$ L D FAT DADDY’S PIZZA 10619 Manslick Rd., 363-7551. $$ L D h FAT JIMMY’S 2712 Frankfort Ave., 891-4555, 12216 Shelbyville Rd., 244-2500. This friendly neighborhood nook offers a cold mug of beer and a hot slice of pizza, along with sub sandwiches, pasta dishes and salads. The Lyndon spot lures a friendly biker crowd. $$ L D h FROLIO’S PIZZA 3799 Poplar Level Rd., 456-1000.

Just around the corner from the Louisville Zoo, Frolio’s is a neighborhood pizzeria with a cozy, dim Italian-American mood and an all-you-can-eat pizza-and-salad lunch special. $$ L D h HOMETOWN PIZZA 11804 Shelbyville Rd., 2454555. Pasta dishes, hoagies, stromboli and cold beer are available, and so is the one-of-a-kind Bacon Cheeseburger pizza. $$ L D h IROQUOIS PIZZA 6614 Manslick Rd., 363-3211. $$ L D h

MA ZERELLAS 949 S. Indiana Ave., Sellersburg IN, 246-9517. Pleasant family-run-for-family-fun establishments. Pizza, pasta, salads and subs served for lunch and dinner seven days a week. $$ L D h MARCO’S PIZZA 2011 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 941-1144. A rapidly growing pizza, 340-unit chain from Toledo, Ohio, adds to the choices of takeout pies in New Albany. Ironically, its CEO lives in Louisville and commutes to Toledo. $$ L D h MELLOW MUSHROOM 3920 Shelbyville Rd., 4096874, 805 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 244-6112. This small pizza/calzone/hoagie/salad chain touts its stoner origins, as the chain’s name, and some of its offerings such as magic mushroom soup and Maui Wowie pizza, imply. Though a chain, each outlet tries to be funky in an individualistic, local way. $$ L D p MR. GATTI’S 703 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 283-5005, 8594 Dixie Hwy., 935-0100, 1108 Lyndon Ln., 339-8338, 4200 Outer Loop, 964-0920.

This Austin-based chain was one of the first national pizzerias to reach Louisville in the 1970s, and quality ingredients — plus Gattiland playgrounds for the kids — have made its crisp, thin-crust pizzas a popular draw for nearly 30 years. $$ L D MUCHO QUESO PIZZERIA 2208 Bardstown Rd., 479-1040. $$ L D h NEW ALBANIAN BREWING CO. 3312 Plaza Dr., New Albany IN, 944-2577. Touting “the best pizza in Southern Indiana” is quite a boast, but pizza only tells half of this tasty story. NABC combines the fine pies of Sportstime Pizza with the pub formerly known as Rich O’s. Publican Roger Baylor’s remarkable beer list, with more than 100 selections from around the world — plus locally brewed craft beers — has won international awards. A pizza like the famous “Herbivore” (spinach, sliced tomatoes and roasted garlic) makes a sizzling treat, with a world-class beer to wash it down. $$ L D h

OLD CHICAGO PASTA & PIZZA 9010 Taylorsville Rd., 301-7700, 10601 Fischer Park Dr., 657-5700.

This growing chain specializes in both thick Chicago-style and thin traditional pizza, plus an imposing list of 110 beers from around the world. $$ L D hp ORIGINAL IMPELLIZZERI’S 1381 Bardstown Rd., 454-2711, 4933 Brownsboro Rd., 425-9080, 110 W. Main St., 589-4900. Impellizzeri’s pizzas, massive pies loved for a generation, can now be scarfed down near the arena on Main, in addition to its Highlands and Brownsboro Road locations. $$$$ L D hpf PAPA JOHN’S PIZZA (30 locations) “Papa” John Schnatter got into the pizza game as a Southern Indiana high-school student in 1984 and has built his business into a 3,000-restaurant international chain on the basis of a simple formula: traditional pizza, made from quality ingredients in a straightforward style. $ L D h PAPA MURPHY’S PIZZA (11 Locations) $$ L D PAPALINOS 947 Baxter Ave., 749-8515. Former restaurant chef turned pizza guy Allan Rosenberg continues to satisfy his Highlands customers with his crispy-crust New York-style pizzas with premium, made in-house toppings. Take home an 18-inch pies, scarf down an oversized slice for a snack, or make a meal from the calzones, breadsticks and short list of salads and desserts. $ L D h PERFETTO PIZZA 9910 Linn Station Rd., 426-4644.

Located in the old Slice of NY space off S. Hurstbourne Parkway, Perfetto carries on the New York style tradition: pies by the slice, just like on Flatbush Ave. Hand-tossed crust, all kinds of toppings, plus Italian sausage and meatball sandwiches. $$ L D PIZZA KING 3825 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 945-4405, 1066 Kehoe Ln., Jeffersonville IN, 2828286. The pizza is baked in a sturdy, clay stone

JOHNNY BRUSCO’S PIZZA 10600 Meeting St., 749-8400.

The Kansas City chain has opened its first location in Kentucky, in Norton Commons, offering New York style pies, subs, calzones, pasta and salads. $$ L D JOHNNY V’S 10509 Watterson Trail, 267-0900. $$ L D hp KENNA’S KORNER 4111 Murphy Ln., 426-8340. $$ L D he LA BOCCA PIZZERIA 2708 Paoli Pike, Floyds Knobs IN, 945-7711. Going northwest from I-265 you will find the latest in pizza choices at La Bocca, which is Italian for “the mouth.” You can fill your “bocca” with daily specials, such as Buffalo pizza, calzones, heroes, wraps or salads. Mangia, mangia! $$ L D p LITTLE CAESAR’S PIZZA (9 Locations) This Detroit-based pizzeria chain lost market share in the ’90s, but business analysts say the company known for its two-for-one “pizza pizza” deal has turned things around with a renewed commitment to quality and service. $$ L D h LOUI LOUI’S AUTHENTIC DETROIT STYLE PIZZA 10212 Taylorsville Rd., 266-7599. Detroit style? It’s a fluffy-deep-crusted rectangular pie baked a good while to give the crust crispiness. Detroit native Michael Spurlock used to make road trips to satisfy a sick friend’s cravings, then made a study of it, and now brings it to the old Ferd Grisanti location in J’town. $$ L D hp e LOUISVILLE PIZZA CO. 3910 Ruckriegel Pkwy., 267-1188. Also known as Chubby Ray’s, this local pizzeria makes good, fresh pizzas and ItalianAmerican sandwiches. $$$ L D hpf LUIGI’S 712 W. Main St., 589-0005. New York Citystyle pizza, a treat that you’ll find on just about every street corner there, has been making inroads in River City, but Luigi’s was one of the first to offer in its authentic form here. $$ L

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oven and hand-tossed with thinner crust where the ingredients go all the way to the edge. $$ L D PIZZA PLACE 2931 Richland Ave., 458-9700. $$ L D

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PLEASURE RIDGE PIZZA AND SPORTS BAR 5603 Greenwood Rd., 933-7373. $$ L D hpf PUCCINI’S SMILING TEETH 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 721-0170. A small but growing pizza chain based in Indianapolis opens its first Louisville property on Shelbyville Road. Thin pizza by the slice and other Italian-American dishes are served in an attractive setting that’s a cut above fast food. $$ L D ROCKY’S PIZZA & PANINI 3022 Bardstown Rd., 6908500. Need a quick lunch, and have a hankering for the classic Italian subs and pizzas that you have enjoyed for decades at Rocky’s? Now you can get them quick and to go at this counter-service only branch in the outer edge of the Highlands. $ L D hpf ROCKY’S SUB PUB 715 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 282-3844. Rocky’s is reinventing itself by going back to its roots. Gone is the “Italian Grill” appellation, and back is the Sub Pub theme, along with a growing selection of craft and import beers and a select choice of Italian-American entrées. Go to enjoy a pizza, some baked ziti or chicken parmigiana and some hoppy draft. $ L D hpf ROSIE’S PIZZA 13829 English Villa Dr., 244-2484.

This Middletown pizzeria has been wowing customers for a while with its store-made crusts, and wide choice of toppings. Fans seem to go for the Whole Lot of Rosie, and the Hot Knots. $$ L D SAL’S PIZZA & WINGS 812 Lyndon Ln., 365-4700.

Pizza, calzones, chicken and salads join the food choices in the Lyndon strip mall that also houses other ethnic restaurants. $$ L D hpf SICILIAN PIZZA & PASTA 629 S. Fourth St., 5898686. Ready for takeout or eat-in, this downtown storefront offers good, standard pizza and other familiar Italian-American dishes. $$ L D hf SIR DANO’S PIZZA PARLOR 496 N. Indiana Ave., Sellersburg IN, 246-3346. $$ L D hf SNAPPY TOMATO 10000 Brownsboro Rd., 4126205. $$ L D SPINELLI’S PIZZERIA 614 Baxter Ave., 568-5665, 2905 Goose Creek Rd., 632-2832, 4001 Shelbyville Rd., 895-0755, 239 S. Fifth St., 749-0919, 8610 Dixie Hwy., 614-5300. This locally-owned pizzeria, widely known for their massive pizza by the slice, has expanded to four locations. All are open until 5 a.m. nightly Wednesday through Saturday, offering Philly-style pizza and real Philly cheese steaks. $ L Dh STUDIO PIZZA 1401 Veterans Pkwy, Clarksville IN, 288-6600. Owner Steve Baldwin serves up Chicagostyle pie, calzones and other tipico Italiano fare, with a performance stage ready for pro performers or karaoke. $$ L D TONY IMPELLIZZERI’S 5170 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 949-3000. Long-time Louisville pizzamaker moves across the river to fill the cravings of Hoosiers. $$$ D UNCLE MADDIO’S PIZZA JOINT 2011 Grinstead Dr., 690-8871. Finally the attractive space at the corner of Bardstown Rd. and Grinstead is luring some commercial occupants. The first restaurant in there is a pizza concept from the guys behind Moe’s Southwest Grill. Order at the counter from a range of custom choices and your pizza gets delivered to your table. $$ L D VITO’S PIZZA 1919 S. Preston St., 634-1003. A little neighborhood pizza pub on the edge of Germantown has been serving up its signature pies to neighbors and commuters who pick up pies before they get on nearby I-65 to head home. $$ L D hp WICK’S PIZZA PARLOR 975 Baxter Ave., 458-1828, 2927 Goose Creek Rd., 327-9425, 12717 Shelbyville Rd., 213-9425, 225 State St., New Albany IN, 66 Fall 2013 www.foodanddine.com

945-9425, 9700 Bluegrass Pkwy., (Ramada Plaza) 409-4267. Wick’s wins popularity with a welcoming mix of good pizza, a quality beer list and a friendly neighborhood feel at all five of its eateries. The pies are straightforward, made with ample toppings.

“The Big Wick” is a favorite. $$ L D hpfe

DEVINO’S 104 W. Main St., 569-3939. This stylish deli offers another lunch and dinner option downtown. Sandwiches are made from quality Boar’s Head meats and cheeses cut on the premises, with dining inside and on the patio; package beer and wine is also available. $ L D f

ZA’S PIZZA 1573 Bardstown Rd., 454-4544. $$ L D hpf

DIZZY WHIZZ DRIVE-IN 217 W. St. Catherine St., 5833828. This neighborhood eatery is an institution. It goes back more than 50 years and hasn’t changed much. It opens early and stays open late and offers good value for what you’d expect. $ L D hf

321 DELI 321 W. Main St., 566-3258. This new delicatessen strives to blend the look and feel of a New York deli with the charm of the South. Expect nicely done sandwiches constructed from meats roasted in house, gourmet salads and sides to go. $LDf ANOTHER PLACE SANDWICH SHOP 119 S. Seventh St., 589-4115. If you want to buy a car, go to a car dealer. To buy a carpet, patronize a carpet shop. And if you’ve got a sandwich on your to-do list, it makes sense to go to a sandwich shop. $ L BABY D’S BAGELS & DELI 2009 Highland Ave., 365-3354. This Highlands deli serves steamed bagel sandwiches and wraps, made with housesmoked and roasted meats. Look for funky sandwich names and desserts such as chocolatecovered bacon. $ B L D h BACKYARD BURGER 1800 Priority Way, 240-9945.

The open flame at this counter-service diner provides the next best thing to a family cookout.

Sandwiches, fresh salads, fruit cobblers and oldfashioned hand-dipped milkshakes enhance the nostalgic theme. $ L D BOARDWALK FRESH BURGERS AND FRIES 2909 E. Tenth St., Jeffersonville IN, 725-0200. With outlets in 12 states, Boardwalk now brings their fresh fries and burgers concept to the Ohio Valley.

A step up from fast food with large patties that can be dressed to one’s whim. $$ L D BRIAN’S DELI 531 S. Fourth St., 561-0098. Between Chestnut Street and Muhammad Ali Boulevard, Brian’s services the downtown lunch crowd with soup, salads, sandwiches and snacks. $ L f BRUEGGER’S BAGELS 119 Breckenridge Ln., 6181158. The bagel / deli sandwich chain has set up shop in the middle of St. Matthews, offering another quick breakfast and lunch option. Choose from bagels and breakfast sandwiches, muffins, panini, salads and soups. $ B L f BURGER BOY 1450 S. Brook, 635-7410. For a real slice of Louisville life, this weathered greasy spoon at the corner of Brook and Burnett is the real thing.

Neighborhood denizens drink coffee and chow down on burgers and breakfast until the wee hours (the joint is open 24 hours). If Louisville is home to a budding Charles Bukowski, there’s a good chance he’s sitting at their counter right now, recovering from last night’s excesses. $ B L D h BUTCHER’S BEST 9521 US Hwy. 42., 365-4650. This fully staffed meat store in Prospect offers customcut beef, lamb, pork, bison, chicken and veal, plus a well-stocked deli and specialty foods, with skilled butcher Jimmy Mike at the helm. $ L D f CAT BOX DELI 500 W. Jefferson St., 561-6259. The name of this cozy downtown deli in the PNC Bank building might warrant a double-take, but its feline theme and kitty cartoons earn a smile. Open for breakfast and lunch, it offers a good selection of sandwiches, panini and wraps at budget prices. $ L CHEF MARIA’S GREEK DELI 102 Fairfax Ave., 8957075. $ L D DANISH EXPRESS PASTRIES 102 1/2 Cannons Ln., 895-2863. Just a few tables turn this takeout nook into a sit-in breakfast and lunch spot for a handful of diners at a time. Full breakfasts and light lunches are available, but as the name implies, Danish pastries are the specialty, and they’re fine. $ B L

DOOLEY’S BAGELCATESSEN 2415 Lime Kiln Ln., 426-3354. This convenient deli specializes in bagels, as the name implies. Breakfast means fresh bagels with an array of cream cheese, sausage, eggs and coffee. At lunchtime lines form for sandwiches — subs, panini, wraps, hot melts and cold cuts. $ B L DP UPDOGS 147 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 9480768. The long-lived but now defunct Little Chef diner at the corner of New Albany’s Market and Bank Streets has a new life and identity. Stop in for a variety of wiener concoctions, or an ice cream sandwich. $ f EINSTEIN BROTHERS BAGELS 320 W. Jefferson St. (Hyatt Regency), 217-6046. Nothing beats a bagel and a schmear of cream cheese — unless it’s a bagel, a schmear, and a generous slab of lox. For those who don’t live on bagels, a good selection of soups, salads and sandwiches offer quick sustenance at this branch of the national chain. $ B L f THE FEED BAG 133 Breckenridge Ln., 896-1899.

The grilled salmon burger is worth the visit, as well as the Triple Crown wrap with three meats or a fresh veggie wrap. Soups, desserts top off the lunch-only schedule. $ L FIREHOUSE SUBS 215 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 3653473. This national chain touts that they steam their meat and cheese sandwiches. Specialty subs carry out the Firehouse theme and the kids meals include a little fire helmet. $ L D FRASCELLI’S NEW YORK DELI & PIZZERIA 4113 Murphy Ln., 243-9005. This shop offers Italian-style deli sandwiches and pizza, plus home-style Italian hot dishes from lasagna to baked ziti. $ L D hf GREAT LIFE CAFÉ 9565 Taylorsville Rd., 297-8807, 9463 Westport Rd., 420-0707, 951 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 284-5624. This small but growing local chain, founded by Steve and Jill Mazzoni and their friend Jason McCune, specializes in health and nutrition supplements and vitamins. $ B L D HONEYBAKED CAFÉ 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 895-6001, 6423 Bardstown Rd., 239-9292, 3602 Northgate Crt., New Albany IN, 941-9426. Before holidays, you go in and carry out huge spiral-sliced hams or turkey breasts or beef roasts for your own parties. In the off season, you sit down in the café and order generous, filling sandwiches made from those same meats, served on rolls or croissants, cold or with a hot cheese melt. Soup and salads too. And cookies. $ L D JASON’S DELI 410 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 412-4101, 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 896-0150, 1975 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 493-4130. Don’t look for a New York kosherstyle deli at this Texas-based chain, but suburbanites are lining up at its multiple locations for oversize sandwiches, salads, wraps and more. $ L D f JERSEY MIKE’S SUBS AND SALADS 10266 Shelbyville Rd., 244-1991, 10519 Fischer Park Dr., 425-1025, 9156 Taylorsville Rd., 499-9830. East Coast-style sub shop with local faves that includes cheese, ham, prosciuttini, capicola, salami, pepperoni and fixings. $ L D JIMMY JOHN’S SUB SHOP 976 Baxter Ave., 587-0550, 4000 Shelbyville Rd., 894-3331, 3901 Dutchmans Ln., 894-9393, 415 W. Jefferson St., 625-7101, 301 E. Market St., 587-7888, 1321 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 425-4515, 3001 Charlestown Crossing Way, New

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

Albany IN, 725-8580, 1116 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 288-6700, 12903 Shelbyville Rd., 384-8884, 341 W. Cardinal Blvd., 634-3334. This national sandwich-shop chain offers a wide selection of over stuffed subs that benefit from fresh quality ingredients. But what sets them apart from the rest is their value — and they deliver. $ L D f

OLLIE’S TROLLEY 978 S. Third St., 583-5214. A little piece of fast-food history remains on an urban street corner in Old Louisville. It’s one of the nation’s few surviving trolleys of the Louisvillebased chain that spread across the nation in the ’70s. Oversize burgers with a spicy, homemade flavor are just as good as ever. $ L

RED’S COMFORT FOOD 514 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 587-7337. Across from Louisville Gardens, “Red” offers gourmet wieners and sausages, chicken barbecue topped with coleslaw and vegetarian side dishes, many made with locally sourced products.

Red closes for the winter, though, so his fans have to wait til spring. $ L f

LENNY’S SUB SHOP 3942 Taylorsville Rd., 454-7831.

Another semi-national chain, covering mostly the South and Midwest, brings a selection of familiar subs, sandwiches and salads to Louisville diners eager for more standardized semi-fast food. $ L D f

PANERA BREAD CO. 7900 Shelbyville Rd. (Oxmoor Mall), 899-9992, 6221 Dutchmans Ln., 895-9991, 601 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 423-7343, 10451 Champion Farms Dr., 426-2134, 3131 Poplar Level Rd., 635-9164, 1040 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 288-9400, 400 W. Market St., 540-5250, 1801 Rudy Ln., 710-0297, 1534 Bardstown Rd., 459-8160.

Warm breads finish-baked on the premises make a tasty base for a variety of sandwiches. Soups, salads, coffee drinks and a free WiFi hotspot make Panera’s outlets popular gathering places. $ B L D f

SAE CAFÉ 200 S. Seventh St., 585-3400. This spunky downtown breakfast and lunch place has goals of serving more healthful — and tasty — choices.

Muffins and other breakfast pastries are by Najla’s, a Louisville baker that uses no trans-fats, corn syrup or preservatives. The sandwiches have clever names — Angry Bob, Hail to the Chief, Mexi Mama wrap and the Knuckle sandwich — and there are also salads and daily soup specials. $ B L

LIL’ CHEEZERS 938 Baxter Ave., 409-7424. Though ensconced now in a brick-and-mortar spot in the Highlands, the original food truck still makes appearances at special events. Choices among the upscale grilled cheese sandwiches include caprese grilled cheese (tomato and mozzarella) and a Fancy Pants that includes Brie, caramelized onions, apple and walnuts. $ L D hf

PAUL’S FRUIT MARKET 3922 Chenoweth Sq., 8968918, 4946 Brownsboro Rd., 426-5070, 12119 Shelbyville Rd., 253-0072, 3704 Taylorsville Rd., 456-4750. One of Louisville’s popular sources for produce, cheeses, deli items, and the like. Deli sandwiches and salads are available (takeout only). $ L D

LONNIE’S BEST TASTE OF CHICAGO 121 St. Matthews Ave., 895-2380, 8129 Preston Hwy., 5093640. This appetizing operation offers genuine Chicago hot dogs and a taste of Chicago atmosphere for a price that won’t hurt your wallet. A second location brings the Windy City fare to Okolona. $ L D f

PENN STATION (17 Locations). Billed as the East Coast Sub Headquarters, this sandwich kitchen does a brisk business here in the Louisville area. $ L D

LOTSA PASTA 3717 Lexington Rd., 896-6361. A Louisville pioneer in gourmet cheeses, oils, dips, hummus and, of course, pasta. They are mainly an eclectic specialty-food store but fans stand threedeep at the sandwich counter every afternoon. And next door is a comfortable place to have coffee and pastry or to eat your sandwich. $ L D f

POTBELLY SANDWICH SHOP 302 S. Fourth St., 5401100. The Chicago-based chain has set up shop along the quick-lunch row just north of 4th Street Live.The Louisville location is run by two escapees from the financial services world who depended on Chicago Potbelly sandwiches to get them through grueling trading sessions. $ L D

MAIN EATERY 643 W. Main St., 589-3354. Smack dab in the middle of the Main Street historic district, this fashionable deli lures the savvy business midday crowd. $ L

QUIZNO’S SUBS (7 locations) Toasted breads, a sandwich selection of meats, veggies and fish are built to fight hunger. Fresh soups are available daily, from chili to chowder; so are salads and desserts. $ L

SCHLOTZSKY’S DELI 10531 Fischer Park Dr., 4258447. The original Schlotzsky’s offered just one kind of sandwich — “The Original” — when it opened its first eatery in Austin, Texas, in 1971.

Now this national chain vends a full selection of deli-style fare, with one significant improvement on the traditional deli: the servers are invariably polite. $ B L D f SCOTTY’S VILLAGE MARKET 10640 Meeting St., 384-6338. A grocery store and deli joins the retail mix at Norton Commons. In keeping with the Village theme, the store will evoke the feel and ambience of the old local grocery, in addition to doing on-site baking, smoking meats, and offering full to-go dinners. $ L D f SHADY LANE CAFÉ 4806 Brownsboro Center, 8935118. Another attractive East End storefront, Shady Lane Café, has been earning good reviews for simple breakfast and lunch fare served in friendly surroundings. $ Br L f THE STARVING ARTIST CAFÉ & DELI 8034 New Lagrange Rd., 412-1599. $ L

MAIN STREET CAFÉ 217 E. Main St., 992-8080.

This ambitious little downtown place offers a range of breakfasts choices from light pastries and yogurt to omelets, waffles, and, thought fully, pie for breakfast (changes seasonally).

For lunch look for sandwiches made from housesmoked and cured pastrami, sorghum bacon and other artisanal foods, as well as daily specials on soups, and a Kentucky farmer-inspired seasonal salad. $ B L f MCALISTER’S DELI 10041 Forest Green Blvd., 4258900, 2721 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 671-2424, 2400 Lime Kiln Ln., 339-8544, 6510 Bardstown Rd., 2399997, 12911 Shelbyville Rd., 244-5133, 1305 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 282-3354, 1200 S. Floyd St. (U of L), 825-2285, 4677 Outer Loop, 969-3328, 980 Breckenridge Ln., 895-1698. Emphasizing quality customer service, this delicatessen ladles up such soups as gumbo and chicken tortilla along with cutting board favorites. They have a special way with a tumbler of sweet iced tea. $ L D MORRIS DELI & CATERING 2228 Taylorsville Rd., 458-1668, 555 S. Second St. (YMCA building), 5872353. Many locals still know this small, popular Highlands deli as Karem Deeb’s after its longtime previous owner. Mostly for takeout — it packs in a few crowded tables — it’s known for high-quality, hand-made deli fare both in the Highlands and at the YMCA downtown. $ L NANCY’S BAGEL BOX 651 S. Fourth St., 589-4004.

An outpost of Nancy’s Bagel Grounds in Clifton, this little outlet, inside Theater Square Marketplace, offers a similar mix of light fare and Nancy’s unique take on the bagel. $ B L NANCY’S BAGEL GROUNDS 2101 Frankfort Ave., 895-8323. A friendly and casual neighborhood gathering spot. Offerings include soups, snacks, coffee drinks and bagels made on the premises to its own rather idiosyncratic formula. $ B L f

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

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STEVENS & STEVENS 1114 Bardstown Rd., 5843354. This authentic New York-style deli occupies the rear third of the Ditto’s space in the heart of the Highlands. Take out or eat in one of the booths, you’ll get piled-high pastrami, brisket and corned beef and you’ll love lox and a schmear on your bagel — even if you don’t know what a schmear is. $ L SUB STATION II 3101 Fern Valley Rd., 964-1075.

The hardy No. 19, a six-meat-and-cheese super sub, keeps the store buzzing. An array of sandwiches, salad sides and desserts fill out an appetizing lunch menu. $ L D TC’S SANDWICH SHOPPE 438 W. Market St., 5819200. $ L THORNBERRY’S DELI & PIES 5103 S. Third St., 367-8394. $ L TOM+CHEE 1704 Bardstown Rd., 409-9494, 319 W. Cardinal Blvd., 749-2299, 111 St. Matthews Ave., 893-3575. The Cincinnati-based soup and sandwich chain now has three locations. Its hook is serving many variations on grilled cheese sandwiches (including a grilled cheese donut that has gained TV notoriety) and tomato (and other) soups. Daily specials augment the 15 core menu choices. $ L D f W.W. COUSINS RESTAURANT 900 Dupont Rd., 897-9684. This locally owned and operated eatery looks a lot like the national Fuddruckers chain, but the local boys do a better job, with huge burgers on magisterial home-baked buns and a Metropolitan Museum of toppings. $ L D h WALL ST. DELI 225 Abraham Flexner Way (Jewish Hospital), 585-4202. Offering New York style with Kentucky flair, this busy downtown deli will serve in-house diners or take orders for deliveries.

Authentic Nathan’s Hot Dogs are a specialty. $ L D ZOUP! 318 S. Fourth St., 963-0777. Another chain outlet downtown gives all the lawyers and government workers another choice for soups, sandwiches

and salads, plenty of low-fat, dairy-free and vegetarian choices that will rotate daily. $ L D

B3Q BBQ 1044 Copperfield Drive, Georgetown IN, 951-3900. Ribs, pulled pork and beef brisket, served up as sandwiches, wraps or platters. Also, smoked baloney and chicken, smoked turkey and sirloin tips, and plenty of side choices. Dine-in, carry-out and catering available. $ L D f BAXTER’S 942 BAR & GRILL 942 Baxter Ave., 4099422. (See review under Bar & Grill.)

BLUEGRASS BBQ 119 Saint Matthews Ave., 8933111. Taking over the space vacated by the Neighborhood Café, this tiny BBQ joint in the heart of St. Matthews offers the usual smoked meats: pulled pork and brisket, chicken and ribs, and a panoply of side dishes. $ L D BOOTLEG BARBECUE COMPANY 9704 Bardstown Rd., 239-2722, 7508 Preston Hwy., 968-5657.

Bootleg Barbecue offers a touch of rusticity and a good helping of country hospitality, as it dishes out hearty portions of well-prepared and affordable smoked meats and fixin’s. It’s one of the few places in Louisville where you can get Western Kentuckystyle mutton barbecue. $ L D f BRANDON’S BBQ & PIZZA 9901 LaGrange Rd., 4266666. Hickory-smoked Tennessee-style barbecue sandwiches and filling, affordable dinners. $ L D DERBY CITY BBQ AND CATERING 2932 S. Fourth St., 690-4204. $ L D DUVALLE GRUB-N-SCRUB 3501 Cane Run Rd., 772-1277. Pull into this Shively carwash and get some Boss Hog’s BBQ while the boys detail your wheels. Ribs and rib tips, chicken wings, hamburgers, pulled pork and chicken, milk shakes, and soft serve cones. $ L D

FAMOUS DAVE’S BAR-B-QUE 8605 Citadel Way, 493-2812, 1360 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 282-3283. This franchise chain operation may be based in the twin cities, but it looks like a Georgia gas station with its exuberant, if tongue-in-cheek faux country decor. The important thing, though, is the food, and Dave’s excels with genuine, hickory-smoked barbecue. $$ L D hpf FEAST BBQ 116 W. Main St., New Albany IN, 9200454. Owner Ryan Rogers, graduate of the French Culinary Institute, brings a modernist sensibility to the age-old art of barbecue. He works out formulas for brining times, and trusts the electronic circuitry of his high-tech smoker to keep the temps low and keep the smoke from overwhelming he meats. He also boasts one of the largest selections of Bourbon in southern Indiana. $ L D hpf FIRE FRESH BBQ 211 S. Fifth St., 540-1171. Fire fighters, it is said, eat heartily and well. It’s no coincidence, then, that Fire Fresh BBQ pays homage to local fire departments in its restaurant’s decor. The barbecue and country fixin’s stand comparison to the best firehouse cuisine. $ L D FRANKFORT AVENUE BEER DEPOT 3204 Frankfort Ave., 895-3223. A neighborhood bar that welcomes all comers with some of the most notable ’cue in town. The burgoo and the baked beans rank as some of the best in the city and the pulled pork by the pound is value worth taking home. $ L D pf GREGG’S BBQ JOINT 822 State St., New Albany IN, 987-1623. Gregg prides himself on being “old school,” with “low and slow” barbecue, the way it should be done. He serves up ribs and pulled pork, brisket and chicken, and his fans seem especially taken with his collards greens.$ L D HARLEY’S HARDWOODZ BAR-B-Q 1703 CharlestownNew Albany Pk., Jeffersonville IN, 284-4490. Owner Frank Harley said “I found my calling, which is barbecue.” He smokes up barbecue pork, chicken and brisket, marinated in Harley’s own barbecue sauce.

A menu specialty: smoked chicken white chili. $ L D HICKORY HOUSE BBQ & CATERING 2307 S. Preston St., 634-9111. $ L D f JUCY’S SMOKEHOUSE BAR-B-QUE 7626 New Lagrange Rd., 241-5829. Jucy’s offers exceptionally good Texas-style barbecue from a little wooden shack that looks just like a country BBQ joint should. Highly recommended. $$ L D f MARK’S FEED STORE 11422 Shelbyville Rd., 2440140, 1514 Bardstown Rd., 458-1570, 10316 Dixie Hwy., 933-7707, 3827 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 285-1998, 6501 Bardstown Rd., 442-0808.

Mark Erwin started this chain in an old Hancock’s Feed Store. Today, Mark’s routinely takes local honors for its sauces, sandwiches and its meaty baby-back ribs. And don’t miss the smoked takehome turkeys at Thanksgiving. $$ L D h f MOMMA’S MUSTARD PICKLES & BBQ 102 Bauer Ave., 938-6262. The Okie owner of this spot brings Kansas City barbecue to St. Matthews. Knot on your bib for smoked ribs, brisket, chicken, pulled pork and all the standard sides. Lots of hefty party packs perfect to-go options. $$ D f OLE HICKORY PIT BAR-B-QUE 6106 Shepherdsville Rd., 968-0585. Located in an attractive house not far from General Electric’s Appliance Park, this Louisville relative of a famous Western Kentucky barbecue pit is well worth the trip. $ L D f PINK BARON BBQ 400 W. Court Ave., 835-7361. $LD PIT STOP BAR-B-QUE 13303 Magisterial Dr., 2536740. This familiar old local brand, long a downtown fixture, now offers its smokey Texas barbecue in an East End industrial park just off the Gene Snyder Freeway and Old Henry Road. $ L D

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RITE WAY BAR-B-CUE HOUSE 1548 W. St. Catherine St., 584-9385. Open since 1943, this West End landmark in a one-time neighborhood grocery, offers exceptional urban barbecue, including ribs that rank with the city’s best. $ L D RIVER ROAD BBQ 3017 River Rd., 592-7065. Right next to the Water Tower, this little take-out only place smokes brisket and pork: some days one sells out, on other days the other. Winter hours are 116 or until the meat runs out. Potato salad, slaw and drinks. Buy it by sandwich or by the pound. $ L D ROB-A-QUE 4712 Pinewood Rd., 618-3007. Owner Rob Bailey was a hobbyist BBQ competitor for years until selling his share in a family tool business to turn pro. His smoked meats reflect a Kansas Citystyle of ’cue, and his side dishes are numerous.

Check it out for lunch, to-go or catering. $ L f RUBBIE’S SOUTHSIDE GRILL & BAR 6905 Southside Dr., 367-0007. This South End family knows how to do BBQ. It may be off the beaten path for some folks but here you’ll find a bounty of secret BBQ recipes. $ L D hpfe SCOTTY’S RIBS AND MORE 14049 Shelbyville Rd., 244-6868. Ribs, pork, chicken a la carte and dinners.

The small East End venue moves a lot of pizzas and salads as well. $$ L D hp SHACK IN THE BACK BBQ 406 Mt. Holly Rd., 3633227. This Fairdale institution since 2004 smokes and serves slow-smoked pulled pork, brisket, ribs and a dozen sides (including Nanny’s potato salad) from an 1896 log house. Specialty is hickory-grilled steaks on Friday and Saturday nights. $ L D fe SHANE’S RIB SHACK 2420 Lime Kiln Ln., 429-3907.

“Rib” may be its middle name, but you can also fill up on wings, chicken tenders, sandwiches and more at this growing Atlanta-based chain. $$ L D f SMOKEHOUSE BBQ 5414 Bardstown Rd., 239-4422.

This smokery on Bardstown Road just past Hurstbourne offers baby back and spare ribs, pulled pork, brisket, chicken and burgers, along with home-cooked sides like collard greens, sweet potato fries and onion loaf. Finish off with a coconut cream pie or chocolate cobbler. $$ L D p

AMY Z’S 813 Lyndon Ln., 290-7334. An old school neighborhood bar with an elevated food side: ground chuck burgers, chicken quesadillas, a BLT made “ultimate” with the addition of Brie and avocado, and Wednesday steak night, with a varying choice of meats.

If you just want some beer and a game of darts, they have that too — as well as foosball, ping pong and even horseshoes for the outdoors types. $ D hpf BAXTER’S 942 BAR & GRILL 942 Baxter Ave., 4099422. After establishing itself as a lively venue for music, this newest addition to the Baxter corridor is entering the BBQ fray, with chef K.B. Spalding, formerly at Vincenzo’s and Churchill Downs, smoking his way to glory . $ L D hpfe BEEF O’BRADY’S 241 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 254-2322, 5628 Bardstown Rd., 239-2226, 3101 S. Second St., 637-3737, 5501 Valley Station Rd., 933-5919, 11324 Preston Hwy., 966-8515, 105 LaFollette Ct., Floyds Knobs IN, 923-1316. If you think your basic sports pub is only suitable for guys guzzling beer, take another look: Beef O’Brady’s puts the “family” in “family sports pub,” offering a wholesome environment. $ L D hf BIG AL’S BEERITAVILLE 1715 Mellwood Ave., 8934487. Good people, good food, cold beer: The sign out front says it all, and we might add “cool atmosphere” in praise of this small but friendly Butchertown oasis. $ L D hpf

brings the same sociable concept to his pub and eatery. Louisville’s official home for Cincy Bengals fans, Brownie’s may be the closest thing Hurstbourne has to a Germantown neighborhood saloon. $ L D hpfe BUD’S TAVERN GOOD FOOD & BARBECUE 4014 Dixie Hwy., 384-9131. New ownership has spiffed up this Shively outpost now offering honest bar food that’s receiving high praise. Check out the “gently fried” grouper, burgers (including a Rueben burger), burritos and barbecue. $ L D hpfe BUFFALO WILD WINGS (BW-3’S) 6801 Dixie Hwy., 935-1997, 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 899-7732, 9134 Taylorsville Rd., 499-2356, 3584 Springhurst Blvd., 394-9596, 12901 Shelbyville Rd., 254-9464, 1055 Bardstown Rd., 454-3635, 1112 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 283-9464. As much a sports bar as a restaurant, this national franchise chain offers tasty snack-type fare, including the chain’s trademark Buffalo chicken wings. $$ L D hpf BUNGALOW JOE’S BAR & GRILL 7813 Beulah Church Rd., 931-5637. A “family friendly sports bar and grill” in the Fern Creek area sports 23 HDTVs including a 5- by 7-foot HD projector for 3D football viewing, a game room for kids, and plenty of wings, shrimp, burgers and beer. $$ L D hpfe

THE BREWERY 426 Baxter Ave., 365-2505. First renovated in 1984, including the antique bar from the old Kunz’s, the original owners are back from a decade-long hiatus serving wings and calamari, chili, salads, burgers, sandwiches, subs and pastas.

And beer. $$ L D hpfe

CHAMPIONS SPORTS BAR AND GRILL 280 W. Jefferson St. (Louisville Marriott), 671-4246. Another popular option at the striking downtown Marriott, Champions provides a fun, casual dining alternative with a Kentucky sports theme — and a gallery of big-screen televisions to keep the sports action flowing as freely as the libations and upscale pub grub. $$ L D hp

BROWNIE’S THE SHED GRILLE & BAR 237 Whittington Pkwy., 326-9830. Restaurant owner and namesake Keith Brown used to host neighborhood gatherings in a shed at his home. Now he

CHAMPPS AMERICANA 302 Bullitt Ln., 394-7620.

The Fox & Hound sports bar concept wasn’t quite working at this Oxmoor location, so its Wichita owners are trying another sports bar concept. If

SMOKETOWN USA 1153 Logan St., 409-9180. The name “Smoketown” points to the restaurant’s location in this legendary midtown neighborhood, while signaling there’s consistently fine and cleverly fused Memphis- and Texas-style barbecue to be found here. Irrepressible owner Eric Gould maintains his neighborhood spot also is about vegetarian food and yard sales, and everything in the store is for sale (artwork on the walls, furniture, even the salt shakers, just make an offer). You’ll also find live entertainment three nights weekly. $$ L D f SMOKEY BONES BBQ 2525 Hurstbourne Gem Ln., 491-7570. A property of Orlando’s Darden fastfood chain, which also runs Olive Garden and Red Lobster, this noisy Stony Brook-area eatery conveys more of a sports-bar than barbecue concept, but the ribs are fine. $$ L D hp TEXICANS BBQ PIT 6608 Hwy. 146, Crestwood. 2419227. A small, neighborhood place just off I-71 in Crestwood pleases fans with standard barbecue fare — pulled pork, brisket and ribs — as well as smoked sausage, chicken and boneless chops.

Cinnamon apples join the usual side selection of green beans, slaw and mac and cheese. $ L D

30 RED SPORTS SALOON 9601 Newbridge Rd., 6903050. Fern Creek’s lively sports bar has lots of TVs , and Happy Hour specials on food and drink. The solid bar food includes cheese quesadillas and minicorn dogs, burgers, wings and fried fish sandwich.

The Roulette Wheel is your choice of three appetizers, meant for sharing. $$ L D hp

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

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you like “big, made-from-scratch burgers piled sky high, big selection of ice-cold beers and big … no, massive screens on the walls,” it’s your kind of place. $$$ L D hp CLUCKERS WINGS 4308 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 944-8100, 100 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 590-3662, 313 W. Cardinal Blvd., 365-1665. At this growing chain, you can get your wings doused in an array of sauces, from honey barbecue to spicy garlic barbecue to sweet Thai chili to inferno — a habanero-based sauce that has a legit name. Also breaded and grilled tenders, chicken sandwiches, appetizers and salads. $ L D hpf DIAMOND PUB & BILLIARDS 3814 Frankfort Ave., 895-7513, 630 Barret Ave., 690-7040. $ L D

hpfe

DOWN ONE BOURBON BAR 321 W. Main St., 5663258. The new, yet rustic bar, situated down one flight below street level, stocks 100-plus Bourbons, local craft beer and serves wines by the glass. A small but clever bar menu offers burgers, sandwiches and more. $$ L D pfe DRAKE’S 3939 Shelbyville Rd., 614-7327, 3921 Summit Plaza Dr., 384-3921. Lexington-based Bluegrass Hospitality Group has two lively outlets, in the old Burdorf’s building in St. Matthews and the second at The Summit. Twenty-four craft beers on tap to wash down the traditional pub grub of tacos, ribs and — these days — sushi. Familyfriendly by day and a hoppin’ spot at night, with music videos and a DJ. $$ L D hpf FLANAGAN’S ALE HOUSE 934 Baxter Ave., 585-3700.

Gourmet pizzas, hoagies, and an enormous beer selection draw Highlands folks to this cozy neighborhood pub. For a late night pizza (the kitchen’s open until 2 a.m.), it’s one of the best options in the city. $$ L D hpf FOUR KINGS CAFÉ 4642 Jennings Ln., 968-2930.

Steam-table service featuring spaghetti and meatballs,

lasagna and chicken attract a hungry lunch crowd at this casual spot, and brunch specialties are just as popular. $ L D p GERSTLE’S PLACE 3801 Frankfort Ave., 742-8616.

A popular St. Matthews neighborhood tavern since 1924. Although dining is secondary to booze and sports here, the food goes well beyond mere pub grub. $ L D hpfe GRANVILLE INN 1601 S. Third St., 637-9128. A longtime gathering place for U of L students, faculty and fans, this sturdy redbrick tavern just north of the university campus offers a good variety of bar munchies, sandwiches and simple grilled fare plus pizza. It’s perhaps best known, though, for the signature Granville Burger, widely reputed as one of the best burgers in town. $ L D hp GREAT AMERICAN GRILL 2735 Crittenden Dr. (Hilton Garden Inn), 637-2424. Salads, burgers, pastas and sandwiches are available for the casual diner; main entrées include New York strip, filet of salmon and more. $ Br D pf HIGHLANDS TAPROOM GRILL 1058 Bardstown Rd., 584-5222. Another nice choice for beer and bar food along the B’town Rd. corridor, but with former Lilly’s chef Tommy Clemons at the helm the menu includes, but extends beyond, the usual beer cheese, chili and burgers. Look for the crabby patty, smoked shrimp scampi, or French toast sausage, house made with egg and maple syrup. The pulled pork spring rolls are on their way to becoming legendary. $$ L D hpfe HILLTOP TAVERN 1800 Frankfort Ave., 742-2908.

The Skelton brothers (John is an alum of Seviche) have taken over this prime Clifton location, once the original location of Café Lou Lou. Their tavern fare is focused on barbecue, with pulled pork and beer-butt chicken specialties, along with hefty sandwiches (their meatloaf is a standout). $ D hp

HITCHING POST INN 7314 Fegenbush Ln., 2394724. In addition to its full bar and beer garden, and lively conversation, the Hitching Post Inn offers an array of pub grub, including burgers, chicken tenders, and sandwiches. $ L D hpf HOOPS GRILL AND SPORTS BAR 6733 Strawberry Ln., 375-4667. The name says it all: sports, casual dining and good things to drink all find their natural meeting place at this friendly neighborhood spot where hot wings and hoops reign supreme. $ L D hpf JERSEY’S CAFÉ 1515 Lynch Ln., Clarksville IN, 2882100. Quality, affordable fare that goes well beyond pub grub to include an awesome smokehouse burger and barbecued ribs so tender, they say, that you can just tap the end of the bone on your plate, and the meat falls off. $ L D hpf JOHN O’BRYAN’S TAVERN 4123 Flintlock Dr., 4494940. $ B L D JR’S PUB 826 W. Main St., New Albany IN, 920-0030.

Adding even more life to an increasingly busy New Albany downtown, this bar boasts live entertainment on weekends, a daily $1 draft beer pick, a full menu including a daily $6 Blue Plate Special (think comfort foods like Salisbury steak and liver and onions), and an all-you-can-eat fish, fries and slaw choice. $$ L D hpfe KHALIL’S 10966 Dixie Hwy., 632-2227. A family sports bar in Valley Station boasts plenty of TVs, including some tabletop TVs in booths. Menu presents the usual bar food suspects — salads, wings, burgers — but the burgers are on pretzel buns. $ L D hp THE LIGHTHOUSE 202 Main St., Jeffersonville IN, 283-0077. This lighthouse has been a beacon of casual, home cooking and tavern environment for years. Daily specials, appetizers, chicken and fish baskets, salads and desserts round out the menu. $ L D pe

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RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

MIKE’S TAVERN 3521 Paoli Pike, Floyds Knobs IN, 945-8915. A tavern that serves a full breakfast — eggs, bacon, hotcakes. For lunch, a varied 1/2-pound burger menu — jalapeno burger, bacon burger, mushroom burger — plus a 2-pounder that is free if it can be eaten in 60 minutes. Breakfast or lunch served anytime. $ L p NEW DIRECTION BAR & GRILL 2630 Chamberlain Ln., 243-8429. $ L D hpfe O-LINE SPORTS GRILL 2813 N Hurstbourne Pkwy., 384-6171. You can watch every game, every sport all year long, they claim. While you do, you can chow down a variety of bar food, such as the juicy Lucy cheese burger or nacho burger. The kids might like the mini-footballs, franks encased in pastry dough, fried and served with dipping sauces. $ L D hp RIVER CITY DRAFTHOUSE 1574-1/2 Bardstown Rd., 690-5111. Another beer joint along the Bardstown Road corridor boasts more than 20 taps concerned on independent, American, craft beer (in sample, halfpint and pint sizes) and several bottled options. Its limited (for now) bar menu has garnered early praise for its wings. $$ L D hf ROOTIE’S SPORTS BAR & GRILLE 12205 Westport Rd., 365-4681. The first entry of the Buffalo-based chain to open in the area. Rootie’s angle is charcoal-grilled wings with a thick, hickory-smoked spicy sauce. $ L D hpf SAINT’S 131 Breckinridge Ln., 891-8883. Almost like two restaurants in one, Saints features both a small, intimate, candle-lighted room and a larger, happily boisterous main room with the look and feel of a sports bar. $$ L D hpfe SERGIO’S WORLD BEERS 1605 Story Ave., 618-2337.

Despite minimal signage, Sergio’s Butchertown digs pull in his fans, who dig the quirky website, and the whole aura of haughty mystery. What you really need when you locate the place is a desire to explore Sergio’s world beer inventory, nearing 1000 different brews. $$ D h

friendliest pubs, with a reputation for the best pour of drinks around. Limited bar fare, but don’t miss the chicken wings. $ D hpf TIN ROOF 3921 Shelbyville Rd., 895-1940. This Nashville-based chain, which took over the old Brendan’s location in the heart of St. Matthews has a split personality: a family-friendly vibe during the lunch hours; and a rockin’ juke joint at night with live music until 3 a.m. Its menu encompasses everything you expect from bar grub: deep-fried hot dogs, hot wings, quesadillas and salads for the ladies. $ L D hpfe TROLL PUB UNDER THE BRIDGE 150 W. Washington St., 618-4829. On the downslope alongside the Clark Memorial Bridge, a large troll beckons the adventurous into a space excavated out of the lost space in the old whiskey warehouse. The renovation boasts lots of dark, brick-walled spaces, as well as a funky outdoor dining area in the lightwell. The menu offers stacked sandwiches, bison burgers and sweet potato tots, and ribeye steaks. $$ L D hpf VIC’S CAFÉ 1839 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 9444338. $ L D WINGSTOP 4812 Dixie Hwy., 409-6000. This Texasbased chain with 500 restaurants nationally, now reaches into Louisville. Their specialty? Wings of course, and you can get them 9 different ways. $$ L D hp ZANZABAR 2100 S. Preston St., 635-9227. An icon of the ’70s bar scene, the Zbar has resurrected itself at its original location in Germantown. The stylish tile front has been recreated anew, and chef Jack Tapp is pushing the envelope on bar food, with items such as pulled pork smoked on site, sesame seed-crusted tuna salad, and peppercorn-crusted rib eye. “Pub grub” like this and top-flight live music is satisfying oldtimers and the newly hip late into the night. $ L D hpfe

AGAINST THE GRAIN BREWERY 401 E. Main St., 515-0174. Slugger Field once again has a beer-pub.

The owners, veterans of the local brewing revival, have worked out an ambitious rotating beer selection and a smokehouse theme for the kitchen, with an emphasis on seasonal dishes. $$ L D pf APOCALYPSE BREW WORKS 1612 Mellwood Ave., 589-4843. Veteran home brewers Leah Dienes, Paul Grignon and Bill Krauth run the newest brewery in Butchertown. Their taproom, dubbed The Fallout Shelter, serves up to 10 of their concoctions. $ h BANK STREET BREWHOUSE 415 Bank St., New Albany IN, 725-9585. The food focus of this offshoot of F&D columnist Roger Baylor’s New Albanian brewing empire has morphed into American bistro cuisine, with emphasis on fresh and local ingredients, and daily fish specials.

Devotees will still find steak frites and croques monsieurs et madames to go with the exceptional beer brewed on the premises. $$ L D pf BLUEGRASS BREWING COMPANY 3929 Shelbyville Rd., 899-7070, 636 E. Main St., 584-2739, 660 S. Fourth St., 568-2224, 300 W. Main St., 562-0007.

More than just a brewpub. BBC’s management gives equally serious attention to both cooking and brewing, making this a great place to stop in for both dinner and a beer. Its third restaurant site on Main Street boasts an upstairs Bourbon lounge. $$ L D hpfe CUMBERLAND BREWS 1576 Bardstown Rd., 4588727. Giving new meaning to the term “microbrewery,” Cumberland Brews may be one of the smallest eateries in town. It’s usually packed, earning its crowds the old-fashioned way by providing very

THE SPORTING NEWS GRILL 6551 Paramount Park Dr. (Holiday Inn), 966-0000. Just what you want in a sports bar: seven 52-inch screens, subscriptions to all the pro and college sports networks, and hearty appetizers, Angus burgers, steaks, shrimp and salmon. $$$ L D hpf THE SPORTS & SOCIAL CLUB 427 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live), 568-1400. This Cordishowned spot has four bars — including one that opens out onto the street — plenty of TVs to catch every game, and even a “stadium style sports media room.” Chow down with the usual burgers, sandwiches and wings. $$ L D hpf SPRING STREET BAR & GRILL 300 S. Spring St., 584-6630. A classic American bar and grill, open late on weekends, dispensing cold beer, burgers, sandwiches and good cheer in a friendly atmosphere.

The decor includes a collection of old bicycles hanging from the ceiling, and amenities include several video games and pool tables. $$ L D hp SULLY’S SALOON 434 S. Fourth St., (Fourth Street Live) 585-4100. One of the stalwarts at 4th Street Live, Sully’s works hard to offer a good time. Their happy hour (M-F 5-9 p.m.) draws crowds with great drink prices and creative, favorably priced appetizers. The new menu is an amalgam of allAmerican, American-Irish and Italian-American comfort foods — chorizo chili potato skins, Irish tacos (topped with shredded corned beef), spicy Alfredo penne — that sort of thing. $$ L D hpfe THE BACK DOOR 1250 Bardstown Rd. (Mid City Mall), 451-0659. You need a bit of perseverance to track down this saloon on the back side of Mid-City Mall. When you do, you will find one of the city’s

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

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good food, friendly service, and high-quality handcrafted artisan beers. $ L D hf GORDON BIERSCH BREWERY RESTAURANT 400 S. Fourth St., 589-8935. The growing national brewery and restaurant chain has become an anchor at the corner location at 4th and Liberty, brewing their characteristic German-style bottomfermented lagers, Hefeweizen, bocks, pilsners and Schwarzbiers. The large menu offers the usual pubgrub, but touted as fresh, seasonal and made on the premises. $$$ Br L D hpf NEW ALBANIAN BREWING CO. 3312 Plaza Dr., New Albany, IN, 944-2577. (See review under Pizza.)

ABYSSINIA 554 S. Fifth St., 384-8347. Early reports give high marks to this new Ethiopian restaurant downtown. Plenty of hearty stews, known as “wots,” and interesting vegetarian choices, with large portions and reasonable prices. $ L D ADDIS GRILL 109 S. Fourth St., 581-1011. The signage of this downtown ethnic eatery promises “Mediterranean & Ethiopian Cuisine,” but the menu offers mostly Mediterranean standbys — kabobs, hummus, baba ghannouj, dolmades, tabbouleh. $ L D h AL NUUR 2933 S. Fourth St., 210-7623. Another outlet for Arabian food, but one that goes beyond the usual. You can find long-braised lamb shank and roasted goat, as well as shish kebabs, fish and spaghetti. Take out or eat in. $ L D BELA’S CAFÉ 2933 S. Fourth St., 758-6463. This little Somali café caters mostly to the Muslim community settling in around Churchill Downs, offering cheap, filling, and interestingly spiced foods such as sambusas and nafaqo — a hard-boiled egg in a crust of potato and ground beef, a kind of African Scotch egg. $ L D CHEZ SENEBA AFRICAN RESTAURANT 4218 Bishop Ln., 473-8959. Offering another interesting ethnic cuisine to Louisville’s international dining scene, with generous portions of spicy Senegalese cuisine from West Africa. $ L D h FUNMI’S AFRICAN RESTAURANT 3028 Bardstown Rd., 454-5009. Billing itself as serving “Modern Nigerian Cuisine,” Funmi’s offers a range of dishes from North and Central African cultures. Sample goat in a soup or a thick stew. Try soya, a West African shish kebab with a spicy peanut rub or moin-moin, a savory bean cake or lablabi, a Tunisian chickpea soup. Vegetarian and vegan dishes are available as well. $$ L D KALISIMBI BAR & GRILL 5600 S. Third St., 3641910. This Beechmont sports bar features a blend of African and American foods served alongside an extensive wine and beer list. Open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner. $$ B L D MAA SHA ALLAH 4113 Bardstown Rd., 491-3152.

The name is an Arabic blessing or expression of joy, meaning “Whatever Allah wants to give.” This little Buechel storefront is another example of the entrepreneurial spirit of recent immigrants, in this case from Senegal and Sierra Leone. The menu is African, the ambiance modest, the food spicy and tasty. $$ L D QUEEN OF SHEBA ETHIOPIAN 2804 Taylorsville Rd., 459-6301, 528 S. Fifth St., 589-5777. This authentic Ethiopian restaurant offers a wide selection of intriguing Ethiopian dishes, including a variety of vegetarian selections as well as the traditional beef and chicken specialties. Ethiopian fare is made for sharing and eating with the fingers, but they’ll gladly make forks available for the finicky. $ L D

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A TASTE OF CHINA 1167 S. Fourth St., 585-5582. $ L D ASIAN BUFFET 3813 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 945-1888, 3646 Mall Rd., 479-9989. Competent cookery and careful management that ensures buffet offerings stay fresh and hot makes these buffets a good choice among the growing crowd of all-you-can-eat Asian spots. $ L D ASIAN MOON 3360 Hikes Ln., 451-0077. $ L D AUGUST MOON 2269 Lexington Rd., 456-6569.

August Moon’s secret ingredient is the culinary oversight of Chef Peng Looi, better known as the force behind Asiatique. Housed in a soaring, open space with a Zen master’s style. Consistent commitment in the kitchen and from the staff makes it a top spot for Asian fare. A lovely patio at the rear affords a pleasant alfresco dining experience. $$$ L D hpf CHEER KING STAR 231 S. Fifth St., 587-8686. Just what downtown needed — a Chinese buffet for quick lunches. Mostly the familiar, a mix of Cantonese, Szechuan and Hunan choices for those who need a little spice to fire them up to get back to work. $ L D

EMPEROR OF CHINA 2210 Holiday Manor Center, 426-1717. One of Louisville’s fanciest and most noteworthy Chinese restaurants, the Emperor’s quarters are stylishly strewn across multiple levels of a former suburban movie theater. Outstanding. $$ L D hp EMPRESS OF CHINA 2249 Hikes Ln., 451-2500.

Older sister to The Emperor of China, the Empress was one of Louisville’s first serious, authentic upscale Cantonese restaurants, and its fare still stands up to fancy spots in New York’s Chinatown. $$ L D hp FIRST WOK 3967 Seventh Street Rd., 448-0588. $ L D h GOLDEN BUDDHA 8000 Preston Hwy., 968-7700. $LDh GOLDEN PALACE BUFFET 161 Outer Loop, 368-2868. $$ L D GOLDEN STAR CHINESE RESTAURANT 3458 Taylor Blvd., 368-1833. $ L D h GOLDEN WALL 3201 Fern Valley Rd., 968-9717. $ L D GREAT WALL 2206 Brownsboro Rd., 891-8881. This Clifton restaurant ranks high up in the fast-food Chinese pack. Offering steaming-hot, competently prepared and flavorful dishes. $ L D h

CHINA 1 123 Breckinridge Ln., 897-6511. $ L D

GREAT WOK 2502 Preston Hwy., 634-1918. Just about every shopping center in town has a fast-food Chinese spot, but this one stands out, generating a buzz of word-of-mouth publicity about its well-crafted Chinese dishes at a bargain-basement price. $ L D

CHINA BUFFET 706 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 288-8989. Chinese buffets are ubiquitous, but this one is squarely in the upper range. Regularly refreshed steam tables, attentively fried rice, and properly spicy General Tso’s Chicken raise it above the other places typical of the genre. $ L D

HAPPY DRAGON 12613 Taylorsville Rd., 297-8788.

You guessed it: a good, go-to standard pan-China family-style restaurant in Jeffersontown that’s always there when you’re tired of cooking dinner for the clan. $ L D

CHINA CAFÉ 8625 Preston Hwy., 968-7450. $ L D CHINA CASTLE 7420 Third Street Rd., 367-4272. $ L D CHINA GARDEN 7309 Preston Hwy., 968-4672. A busy restaurant with the double pleasure of Chinese and American menu items. $ L D CHINA INN 1925 S. Fourth St., 636-2020. It’s not the posh, private Faculty Club, but this little Asian spot may be one of the most popular eateries around the University of Louisville’s Belknap Campus. $ L D CHINA KING 3830 Ruckriegel Pkwy., 240-0500. $ L D CHINA TASTE 135 Quartermaster Ct., Jeffersonville IN, 284-5580. $ L D CHINESE CHEF 2619 S. Fourth St., 634-0979. $ L D

HAPPY CHINA 9106 Taylorsville Rd., 493-1001. $ L D

HIBACHI SUSHI BUFFET 5316 Bardstown Rd., 4918228. Capitalizing on two seemingly persistent trends in American dining, this hot table place offers standard Chinese buffet dishes, and standard sushi choices. Cashew chicken, shrimp with garlic sauce, Dancing Dragon roll, spring and summer maki — it is all here. $$ L D HONG KONG CHINESE RESTAURANT 345 New Albany Plaza, New Albany IN, 945-1818. $ L D HONG KONG FAST FOOD 5312 S. Third St., 3678828. One of the many international eateries in Iroquois Manor, this fast-food Chinese spot offers Cantonese standards hot and fast and inexpensively. Check the daily specials for an occasional intriguing item. $ L D h

CHINESE EXPRESS 3228 Crums Ln., 448-1360. $ L D

HUNAN WOK 6445 Bardstown Rd., 231-0393. $ L D h

CHONG GARDEN 10341 Dixie Hwy., 935-1628. $ L D h

JADE PALACE 1201 Herr Ln., 425-9878. Jade Palace is a decent place for Chinese food at any time, but don’t miss it at mid-day Friday through Monday, when it offers the metro area’s only dim sum (Chinese brunch) menu. $$ Br L D hp

CHOPSTICKS 416 E. Broadway, 589-9145. $ L D CHOPSTICKS HOUSE 2112 W. Broadway, 772-3231. $ L D CHUNG KING CHINESE AMERICAN RESTAURANT 110 E. Market St., 584-8880. $ L D CRYSTAL CHINESE 3901 W. Market St., 776-9702. $ L D DOUBLE DRAGON 1255 Goss Ave., 635-5656, 2600 W. Broadway, 778-2573. A standout among fast-food shopping-center Chinese eateries, Double Dragon hits on all cylinders, turning out consistently wellprepared and flavorful fare. $ L D DOUBLE DRAGON II 12480 LaGrange Rd., 241-7766, 6832 Bardstown Rd., 231-3973, 3179 S. Second St., 367-6668, 5222 Dixie Hwy., 448-1988. $ L D DOUBLE DRAGON 9 9501 Taylorsville Rd., 267-5353.$LD EASTERN HOUSE 5372 Dixie Hwy., 568-2688. $ L D EGGROLL MACHINE 1543 Bardstown Rd., 459-1259.

The Chinese side of the menu at Café Mimosa is presented as The Egg Roll Machine, as opposed to the Vietnamese dishes on the fine dining Mimosa menu. All the expected Chinese favorites are here, including combination platters. $ L D hp

JASMINE 13823 English Villa Dr., 244-8896. A charming Asian eatery, where you can enjoy familiar ChineseAmerican plates or indulge your more adventurous side with more unusual authentic dishes from the “Chinese Menu,” available on request. $ L D f JUMBO BUFFET 2731 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 495-0028.

Housed in a good-looking dining room, high on Chinatown-style glitz and glitter, Jumbo offers a standard all-you-can-eat Chinese buffet, with a larger-than-average selection of American dishes for those who want something less exotic. $$ L D h KING WOK 291 N. Hubbards Ln., 899-7188. Another of the city’s many tiny shopping-center fast-food Chinese eateries, King Wok offers all the familiar standards plus a small lunch buffet. $ L D h LING LING 10476 Shelbyville Rd., 245-2100. Modern and efficient in its East End shopping center location, Ling Ling is a cut above fast-food Chinese; better yet, it adds a few Vietnamese dishes to the bill of fare. $$ L D

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

NEW CHINA 231 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 254-9299. $ L D ONION RESTAURANT TEA HOUSE 4211 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 981-0188. Masterful Chinese and Japanese cuisine (including magnificent hotpots, donburi dishes, and wooden-bucket steamed rice) set this airy restaurant apart from the horde of other Asian spots. $ L D f ORIENTAL HOUSE 4302 Shelbyville Rd., 897-1017.

New owners continue the tradition at this longstanding St. Matthews restaurant, featuring both traditional Chinese-American and now, authentic Cantonese, menus. $ L D p ORIENTAL STAR 4212 Bishop Ln., 452-9898. A longtime area favorite in this heavy traffic lunch area.

This establishment is quite good with Lo Mein Noodles, and Sweet and Sour Chicken. $ L D PANDA CHINESE RESTAURANT 9543 U.S. 42., 228-6400. $ L D PANDA EXPRESS 1075 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN 288-0774, 1232 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 3268430. The Pentagon even has one of the 1500+ outlets of the nation’s largest Chinese fast food chains, and now we have two. Moderately priced chow such as orange chicken, Beijing beef, SweetFire chicken breast and honey walnut shrimp fill the menu. $ L D PEKING CITY BISTRO 12410 Shelbyville Rd., 2536777. A step up from the usual Chinese hot table fare. Chef Chen, highly thought of in the Chinese community, runs the kitchen. $ L D QUICK WOK 801 W. Broadway, 584-6519. $ L D RED SUN CHINESE RESTAURANT 3437 Breckinridge Ln., 499-7788. $ L D ROYAL GARDEN 5729 Preston Hwy., 969-3788. $ L D SHANGHAI RESTAURANT 526 S. Fifth St., 568-8833. $LD SICHUAN GARDEN 9850 Linn Station Rd., 426-6767.

Another Asian restaurant that has stood the test of time, Sichuan Garden offers high-end Chinatown style and well-made dishes, plus a few Thai specialties to spice up the bill of fare. $ L D TEA STATION CHINESE BISTRO 9422 Norton Commons Blvd., 423-1202. This comfortable, sitdown Chinese restaurant owned and operated by Paul and Amy Yang joins the small but growing cluster of businesses in the Norton Commons village center. $$ L D h WOK EXPRESS 234 W. Broadway, 583-8988. $ L D h WONTON EXPRESS 3000 Hikes Ln., 452-2646. Traditional Chinese fare. Family-owned-and-operated, this popular neighborhood establishment has enjoyed a steady patronage for seventeen years. $ L D YANG KEE NOODLE 7900 Shelbyville Rd. (Oxmoor Mall), 426-0800. This locally owned and operated Oxmoor spot is colorful and stylish. It offers an intriguing array of appealing noodle and rice dishes from all over Asia with fast-food efficiency and prices happily matched by sit-down restaurant quality and style. $ L D f YEN CHING 1818 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-3581. $ L D YOU-CARRYOUT-A 1551 E. Tenth St., Jeffersonville IN, 288-8313, 827 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville IN, 282-8881. $ L D

SARI SARI FILIPINO CUISINE 2339 Frankfort Ave., 894-0585. The city’s first Filipino eatery offers a tasty introduction to the Malayo-Polynesian fare of this Southeast Asian island nation. Filipino dishes are affordable during the dinner hour and downright cheap on the lunch buffet. $ L D

ARATA SUSHI 9207 U.S. 42, 409-4880. Prospect gets a sleek sushi place, with crisp dark modern interior, well-prepared fresh fish and rolls, and a fine selection of sakes. $$ L D p ASAHI JAPANESE 3701 Lexington Rd., 895-1130.

This small room in St. Matthews houses this neighborhood sushi spot where award-winning Chef Yong Bong Tak, formerly of Osaka, works his magic at the sushi bar. $ L D BEIJING GRILL AND SUSHI BAR 8007 Hwy. 311, Sellersburg IN, 248-0900. $ L D h BENDOYA SUSHI BAR 217 S. Fifth St., 581-0700.

Adding international flair to its downtown neighborhood, Bendoya is a genuine, serious sushi bar in a storefront just across the street from the courthouse. $$ L CAVIAR JAPANESE RESTAURANT 416 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 625-3090. (See listing under Upscale Casual.)

CHOI’S ASIAN FOOD MARKET 607 Lyndon Ln., 426-4441. This suburban Asian grocery now serves hot table fare to enjoy while shopping. $ L D DANCING SUSHI JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE 2809 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 384-3387. $$ L D DRAGON KING’S DAUGHTER 1126 Bardstown Rd., 632-2444, 202 East Elm St., New Albany IN, 7258600. Owner Toki Masubuchi’s audacious take on fusion cuisine looks to enchant New Albanians as they have Bardstown Road hipsters. The eclectic and somewhat funky menu builds on traditional Japanese ingredients with unexpected twists: pizza topped with sashimi, and tacos filled with avocado tempura. $ L D hpf FUJI ASIAN BISTRO 6801 Dixie Hwy., 937-0488. $$LDp FUJI JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE 3576 Springhurst Blvd., 339-1978, 12905 Shelbyville Rd., 253-0036.

Part of the fun of sitting at the sushi bar is that you get to watch the chef at work. Put in your order, then sit back and sip your tea while the artist creates edible delights. This suburban sushi bar does the job well. $$ L D hp HANABI JAPANESE RESTAURANT 6027 Timber Ridge Dr., 228-8244. A hospitable welcome, casual setting, and well-fashioned sushi and Japanese specialties have made this family run Prospect spot a worthy alternative in the East End dining scene. $$ L D hp HEART & SOY 1216 Bardstown Rd., 452-6678. To the left is Roots, a sit-down restaurant. To the right is Heart & Soy, serving vegetarian “street food,” and entertaining passers-by with a glass-walled tofumaking room. State-of-the-art equipment from Taiwan transforms organic soy beans from Ohio into soy milk and then coagulates and presses it into tofu as you watch. $ L D HIKO A MON SUSHI BAR 1115 Herr Ln., 365-1651.

Japanese-trained chef Norihiko Nakanashi brings his artistic skills to this sushi bar and Japanese grill in Westport Village. In addition to fine dining at the bar or in traditional Japanese dining rooms, Hiko A Mon offers sushi-grade fish from a small fish market. $$$ L D hp

KANSAI JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE 1370 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 218-9538, 1850 S. Hurst bourne Pkwy., 618-1870. Traditional Japanese dishes and sushi are available here, but like most Japanese Steakhouses, choose the grill tables with their slice-and-dice Japanese chef show for maximum entertainment. $$$ L D hp KOBE STEAK HOUSE 301 S. Indiana Ave., Jeffersonville IN, 280-8500. Southern Indiana’s first serious Japanese restaurant has been drawing crowds with its exceptional sushi bar, with skilled and friendly chefs who can be relied on to fashion fresh and tasty bites that are just about certain to please. $$$ L D p MASA JAPANESE 12336 Shelbyville Rd., 409-5040.

Middletown, too, joins in the sushi expansion. Open for lunch and dinner, the standard menu is bolstered by daily chef’s specials. Lunch specials include the Japadawg, a hot dog with Japanese toppings, a range of teriyaki choices and ramen noodles, Japanese style. $$ L D h MIKATO JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE 3938 Dupont Circle, 891-0081. An upscale hibachi grillhouse in the popular restaurant ring in the Breckinridge Lane — Dupont Circle area. Pleasant decor, entertaining grill chefs, fresh sushi preparations, and sometimes glacial service. $$ L D hpf MT. FUJI 309 Cardinal Blvd., 637-5887. The quick-eating strip on the north side of U of L’s campus needed a Japanese place to satisfy students’ sushi cravings. The menu also has tempura and Japanese noodles. $ L D p OASIS SUSHI & SOUL 3311 Preston Hwy., 3758766. Owners of downtown’s Bendoya Sushi Bar have opened this Japanese restaurant on Preston Highway. $$ D h OISHII SUSHI 2810 Taylorsville Rd., 365-3474. This small, attractive and popular sushi spot has contracted to a single location near Bowman Field. $$ L D h OSAKA SUSHI BAR 2039 Frankfort Ave., 894-9501, 426 W. Market St., 588-8899. This long-standing Clifton favorite also has a second location downtown, serving up sushi and other Japanese dishes in a bright and cheery environment to a loyal clientele. $$ L D ROOTS 1216 Bardstown Rd., 452-6688. Coco Tran, who has nurtured a loyal Clifton-area fan base with her Zen Garden, looks to seduce the vegan/ vegetarian world of the Highlands with this crisp, elegant room. Eat at tables in the front, enjoy smoothies and tea at the bar, or snuggle down in a Japanese pit table in the back. Choose from an international selection of small plates. $ L D SAKE BLUE JAPANESE BISTRO 9326 Cedar Center Way, 708-1500. This Fern Creek restaurant brings the “full-service” Japanese restaurant experience to the southeast part of Louisville Metro. Look for hibachi grill tables and a sushi bar, along with a traditional dining room and cocktail bar. $$ L D hp SAKURA BLUE 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 897-3600.

Located in elegant, upscale quarters in a St. Matthews shopping center, Sakura Blue — direct descendant of the old, popular Bonsai — ranks among the city’s top sushi bars. $$ L D h

ICHIBAN SAMURAI 1510 Lake Shore Ct., 412-3339.

This large Japanese-farmhouse building, originally a Benihana, offers similar delights, with the traditional slice-and-dice food show and good sushi. Best deal, while the offer lasts: All-you-can-eat sushi nightly until the karaoke starts at 9 p.m. $$$ L D p

SAPPORO JAPANESE GRILL & SUSHI 1706 Bardstown Rd., 479-5550, 649 S. Fourth St., 589-3333. With its original location in the middle of Bardstown Road’s “restaurant row,” trendy, glitzy Sapporo has established itself as one of the city’s top spots for sushi and Japanese fare. Its second location is in a beautifully designed space in Theater Square off Broadway downtown. $$$ L D hp

KAILANA SUSHI 6435 Bardstown Rd., 614-7244. Fern Creek gets another choice in sushi bars, with generous rolls priced competitively — nothing over $12. Four levels of 13-piece, mix and match lunch specials, as well as rice, noodles and salads. $$ L D h

SATO’S ZEN SUSHI & SAKE 285 N. Hubbards Ln., 893-8901. The menu of this Japanese restaurant boasts “Zen salads,” soups, sushi, green tea, red bean and tempura ice cream, and a variety of flavored sakes. $$ L D h

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SHOGUN JAPANESE STEAK HOUSE 9026 Taylorsville Rd., 499-5700, 4110 Hampton Lake Way, 3940123. Shogun’s decor is attractive, and quality food and service make it a pleasant dining destination.

It’s unthreatening enough to appeal to those who find exotic cuisine “challenging,” but good enough to satisfy just about anyone who craves a Japanese dinner or a bite of sushi. $$$ L D hp SORA SUSHI AND JAPANESE CUISINE 2610 Chamberlain Ln., 290-7672. Every neighborhood now needs its sushi place. Louisville’s inexhaustible hunger for sticky rice wrapped in seaweed has seen it win early fans who attest to the menu’s freshness and to the pleasant service and setting. $$ L D p STAR SUSHI 2781 Jefferson Centre Way, Jeffersonville IN, 725-8444. Is there a surfeit of sushi around the area? Even Jeffersonville now has its own source of yellowtail rolls, sashimi and nigiri, which is drawing fans for the freshness and flavor of its offerings, and its very fair price point. $$ L D TOKYO JAPANESE RESTAURANT 2415 Lime Kiln Ln., 339-7171. It’s appealing, pleasant in atmosphere and friendly in service, and most important, this East End sushi bar serves excellent Japanese treats, prepared with care and flair from highquality, impeccably fresh ingredients. $$ L D TOMO 4315 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 9410200. This Japanese hibachi steak house offers a good show of knife skills and tableside grilling, as well as sushi. Patrons seem to admire the oversize sushi rolls, the salads with ginger dressing, and the grilled chicken and scallops. $$ L D p WASABIYA JAPANESE RESTAURANT 972 Baxter Ave., 618-2460. A neighborhood sushi bar, with a chef from Boston with fusion cuisine intentions.

Look for some unusual items, like the sake kinuta, salmon wrapped in marinated daikon radish with a citrus sauce, or a fatty tuna carpaccio with white wine reduction and ponzu sauce. $$ L D h

JAPANESE

WILD GINGER SUSHI & FUSION 1700 Bardstown Rd., 384-9252. The old Café Metro space did not molder long — this sushi and Asian fusion spot has been pulling in intrigued customers who admire the sushi bar up front, and explore the pan-Asian menu. Standard Japanese entrées are joined with specials from Korea (bibim bop) China (Sichuanstyle crispy tofu) and Thailand (pad thai and curries). $$ L D hp

CHARIM KOREAN RESTAURANT 4123 Oechsli Ave., 290-8900. This St. Matthews site behind the Old Sears building housed several other restaurants, and now the promise of Korean food in St. Matthews has many ethnic food fans salivating. $ L D KOREANA II 5009 Preston Hwy., 968-9686. One of the city’s few restaurants devoted entirely to authentic Korean fare, Koreana is worth a special trip for this ethnic cuisine that offers a hearty, spicy alternative to the more familiar Chinese. $$ L D LEE’S KOREAN RESTAURANT 1941 Bishop Ln., 456-9714. This little spot has been a secret since the ’70s, and it just keeps on going. Walk into what looks like a diner in an office building, but push past the counter to the back room, where you’ll find generous heaps of really authentic Korean food for next to nothing. $$ L D h

steadily moving northward from its Dallas home base. At this suburban location just beyond the Gene Snyder Freeway you can choose one of their dozen “signature bowls” including Szechuan bamboo beef, ginger herb shrimp, Mexican jalapeno and chipotle steak. Or design your own from a choice of protein, vegetables, sauces and starches. $$ L D p SHAH’S MONGOLIAN GRILL 9148 Taylorsville Rd., 493-0234, 423 E. Warnock St., 409-5029. Thirteenth Century Mongol warriors used to turn their steel shields to use as frying pans over the campfire, using their swords as spoons. Shah’s carries their spirit forward. This all-you-can-eat buffet is fun, and the food is fine. $$ L D

MAI’S THAI RESTAURANT 1411 E. Tenth St., Jeffersonville IN, 282-0198. With a broad range of well-prepared and authentic Thai dishes, Mai’s is the eatery to beat among the metro area’s Thai restaurants. For both authenticity and quality, it’s right up there with the top Thai places in New York, San Francisco and Seattle. $ L D SALA THAI 8125 Bardstown Rd., 231-1992, 10403 Glenmary Farm Dr., 493-3944. This entry on the growing list of Thai restaurants is gaining fans, partly because it is vegetarian- and vegan-friendly. $$ L D

BD’S MONGOLIAN GRILL 1890 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 499-4406. The proprietors of this Michiganbased East End chain invite you to “go Mongo,” building your own choice of ingredients and sauces for the chefs to stir-fry. $$ L D hpf

SIMPLY THAI 323 Wallace Ave., 899-9670, 12003 Shelbyville Rd, 690-8344. Owner Mahn Saing and his wife, a classically trained Thai chef, are pleasing diners in St. Matthews and Middletown. Their menu of traditional Thai dishes, well-made sushi and a few upscale Thai-style “fusion” dinner items use many ingredients from their small home garden. $$ LDf

GENGHIS GRILL 4002 Towne Center Dr., 426-4945.

The chain of Asian stir-fry restaurants has been

TAN THAI RESTAURANT 4510 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 948-2012. It’s in a strip mall, but the

GRILL

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SAPPOROJAPANESE.COM 1706 BARDSTOWN RD. 502.479.5550 649 SOUTH 4TH ST. 502.589.3333

DINNER ONLY HIBACHI GRILL RESERVATIONS RECOMMENDED 74 Fall 2013 www.foodanddine.com

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

folks who run TanThai create a distinctive atmosphere by hanging sheer white scrims that divvy the room up into serene little chambers. The menu of Thai specialties is small — just a dozen or so entrées — but nicely executed and beautifully presented. $ L D THAI CAFÉ 2226 Holiday Manor Center, 425-4815.

You’ll find this small café tucked into a corner of the “Holiday Manor Walk.” Owner Chavantee Snow and her family offer a small but well-prepared selection of authentic Thai dishes at very reasonable prices. $ L D f THAI SIAM 3002 Bardstown Rd., 458-6871. Louisville’s first Thai restaurant, this venerable spot has built a loyal audience over the years, perhaps responding to its regular visitors’ preferences with food that’s a bit on the tame side for Thai. $$ L D THAI SMILE 5 5800 Preston Hwy., 961-9018. Part of a regional mini-chain, Thai Smile 5 serves up simple but well-prepared Thai fare. Don’t ask for the fivechile-pepper heat unless you really mean it! $ L D THAI TASTE 1977 Brownsboro Rd., 897-7682. The owner-host of this friendly, casual spot in Crescent Hill had a restaurant in Bangkok before moving to Louisville, and his experience shows. The warmth of his welcome — and the quality of the food — make Thai Taste special. $ L D

ANNIE CAFE 308 W. Woodlawn Ave., 363-4847.

Annie Cafe ranks not just as one of the better Vietnamese restaurants, but one the city’s best of any variety, particularly when value and price are taken into account. Authentic Vietnamese food is made with care and served with pride. $ L D BANH MI HERO 2245 Bardstown Rd., 456-2022.

Seven versions of the French-Vietnamese fusion sandwich on offer here, plus Asian tacos and rice bowls, washed down with Vietnamese coffee, jasmine tea or exotic Asian canned soft drinks.$ L D

PHO BINH MINH 6709 Strawberry Ln., 375-9249.

Tiny and lovably cozy, this six-table South End spot is true authentic Vietnamese, and so are the proprietors. There’s some language barrier, but the owners are so friendly, and the food so good, that it’s worth the effort if you love real Asian fare and inexpensive prices. $ L D SAIGON CAFÉ 108 Fairfax Ave., 893-7757. St. Matthews diners can find tasty and inexpensive Southeast Asian fare here — Vietnamese, Thai and Chinese dishes are all choices on the menu. $$ L D h SAIGON ONE 333 W. Cardinal Blvd., 638-8989.

When U of L students get the sniffles, they just have to have quick access to a bowl of steaming pho. This Vietnamese place at the new university dorm and restaurant row at Cardinal Towne provides needed sustenance. $ L D h VIETNAM KITCHEN 5339 Mitscher Ave., 363-5154.

This little South End storefront is well worth seeking out. The chef goes beyond the ordinary, preparing authentic Vietnamese dishes of unusual subtlety and flavor. We have yet to be disappointed with the quality of the food or service. $ L D h ZEN GARDEN 2240 Frankfort Ave., 895-9114.

Vegetarians with a philosophical bent have found a combination guru and den mother in Zen Garden’s owner Coco, who serves up sincere and soulful Asian vegan dishes. $ L D h

BOSNA-MAK 3825 Old Bardstown Rd., 456-1919.

Friendly and exceptionally hospitable, family-owned Bosna-Mak celebrates the heritage of the owners and chefs in Bosnia and Macedonia in the Balkans and picks up a few culinary additions from their time in Germany. $ L D

BISTRO LE RELAIS 2817 Taylorsville Rd. (Bowman Field), 451-9020. This art deco spot makes stylish use of an historic 1920s airport building to present elegant modern French cuisine. Chef Alexander Dulaney and owner Anthony Dike’s refocus of the restaurant around a bistro menu continues its popularity. $$$$ D pfe BRASSERIE PROVENCE 150 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy.

A Provencal style French Brasserie, opening in September, will offer classical and Southern France specialties. Owner Guy Genoud, native of Cannes, and Chef de Cuisine at Edoardo Bacci, formerly with the English Grill, will offer a large selection of mid-priced lunch and dinner fare and daily plat du jour, just like you will find in Provence. $$$ L D hpf GHYSLAIN 721 E. Market St., 690-8645, 1215 Herr Ln., 690-6001. The two locations of this French bistro, in NuLu and in Westport Village are open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, serving grilled baguettes, croque monsieurs, panini, quiches, soups, salads, and fine chocolates. $$ B L D LA COOP: BISTRO À VINS 732 E. Market St., 4102888. One of the hottest spots in NuLu. Uber talented chef Bobby Benjamin is turning out classic French bistro fare with some modern twists, an idea that keeps his little place packed with happy diners. $$$ B L D hpf LOUIS LE FRANCAIS 133 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 944-1222. This charming French bistro extends the range of international dining options in New Albany. Louis “Louis the Frenchman” Retailleau serves a menu typical of the cuisine of his native southwest France. $$$$ D p

CAFÉ MIMOSA 1543 Bardstown Rd., 459-1259.

Owner Phat Le, serving his Vietnamese, Chinese and pan-Asian dishes to happy regulars, might finally wean Louisvillians from referring to his building as the former Lentini’s. $ L D hp CAFÉ THUY VAN 5600 National Turnpike, 366-6959.

A bit off the beaten track, this South End spot is true, authentic Vietnamese. Friendly service overcomes any language barrier, and prices are hard to beat. Don’t miss the banh mi, traditional Vietnamese sandwiches. $ L D FOUR SISTERS 2246 Frankfort Ave., 384-4262. Four Vietnamese sisters have taken over the former Zen Tea Room space in Clifton. The concept combines a coffeehouse and tea room also serving sweet and savory crepes and bahn mi. $ L D LA QUE 1019 Bardstown Rd., 238-3981. La Que provides the lower Highlands with a dependable, economical Vietnamese menu that includes some dishes from other Asian cuisines. $$ L D hf LEMONGRASS CAFÉ 11606 Shelbyville Rd., 2447110. Lemongrass Café offers an appealing blend of Vietnamese, Thai and Chinese fare in a simple setting that transcends an obviously low budget with style and grace. $ L D h NAMNAM CAFÉ 318 Wallace Ave., 891-8859. This small St. Matthews Vietnamese restaurant has gained many enthusiastic fans who flock there for the pho, the banh mi and other authentic Vietnamese dishes. $ L D f PEARL Horseshoe Casino Hotel, Elizabeth IN, 888-7662648. Vietnamese and Chinese cuisine, elegantly served, Pearl is among the dining choice at Horseshoe Casino. Signature dishes include Vietnamese spring rolls, ginger and scallion fried lobster and crispy salt and pepper shrimp. $$ L D hp

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trattoria. An open kitchen with wood-fired oven gives a peek at the culinary goings-on. $$$ L D hpf EIDERDOWN 983 Goss Ave., 290-2390. The owners of the Germantown watering hole Nachbar also operate the popular Eiderdown, serving Southern comfort food influenced by the owners’ German and European heritage. Dreams of a microbrewery there also dance in their heads; in the meantime, diners are satisfied with a large selection of European craft beers on tap. $$ L D h ERIKA’S GERMAN RESTAURANT 9301 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 499-8822. It’s tucked away in an inconspicuous corner just off I-64 local access ramp, but Erika’s has been pleasing its knowing clientele with authentic German dishes for quite a while now. $$ D GASTHAUS 4812 Brownsboro Center, 899-7177.

Michael and Annemarie Greipel came here with their five kids in 1993, straight from North RhineWestphalia to St. Matthews. Tiny lights twinkle from strands of fake red geraniums. But the hearty German fare — schnitzels, sauerbraten and rouladen with red cabbage and dumplings — is the real thing. $$$ D

IRISH EXIT 209 E. Main St., New Albany IN, 944-1929.

The Irish Exit (a tongue-in-cheek name referring to the quiet, no-farewell leave-taking of inebriated Hibernians) serves pub fare and entertains patrons with karaoke and acoustic music, pool tables and dart boards. $ D hpe IRISH ROVER 2319 Frankfort Ave., 899-3544, 117 E. Main St, LaGrange, 222-2286. Owner Michael Reidy is the Irish rover, having come to the U.S. from County Clare in 1984. His saloons are as smooth as Guinness, as warm as fish and chips, as genuine as Scotch eggs. The Frankfort Avenue building dates from 1859. $ Br L D pf MOLLY MALONE’S 933 Baxter Ave., 473-1222, 3900 Shelbyville Rd., 882-2222. A carefully constructed replica of a modern urban Irish pub, Molly Malone’s, a worthy addition to the city’s eating and drinking scene, has added a second, suburban location. Both are as authentically Irish as the Wearin’ o’ the Green. $$ L D hpfe MORE SHENANIGAN’S 4521 Bardstown Rd., 4933585. $ L D hpfe O’SHEA’S TRADITIONAL IRISH PUB 956 Baxter Ave., 589-7373. One of the most popular watering holes in the entire Bardstown-Baxter corridor.

Twenty-somethings and Louisville belles love its action. But diners of all ages like its meat loaf, roast beef and Irish stew. When music fills the rooms, it’s great to be Irish, even if you’re not. $$ L D hpfe PATRICK O’SHEA’S 123 W. Main St., 708-2488. This downtown Irish bar was one of the first to open in the Whiskey Row complex, anticipating the revival of that edge of the Main Street corridor. Crowds have been elbowing in for upscale Irish-inflected bar food and plenty of sports talk. Now the owners have rehabbed the funky underpinnings of their building into a bar area and dubbed it “The Cellar,” focusing on an aggressive Bourbon program and live entertainment. $$ L D hpfe RI RA IRISH PUB 445 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live) 587-1825. Promising patrons “an authentic Irish experience,” this growing chain is ensconced in a sizable 9,000-square-foot space in Fourth Street Live. Ri Ra (Gaelic for “celebration and good fun”) decorates its pubs with authentic furnishings from Ireland. $$$ L D hpfe SHENANIGAN’S IRISH GRILL 1611 Norris Pl., 4543919. Not just a neighborhood tavern (although it’s a fine neighborhood tavern), Irish-accented Shenanigan’s goes an extra step with an estimable selection of memorable burgers. $ L D hpfe 76 Fall 2013 www.foodanddine.com

ADRIENNE’S ITALIAN RESTAURANT 129 W. Court Ave., Jeffersonville IN, 282-2665. A part of the dining renaissance on the sunny side of Louisville, Adrienne’s has been pleasing Indiana diners with home-style Italian dishes. The owners also operate Adrienne’s Bakery in Jeffersonville. $$ L D

OLD SPAGHETTI FACTORY 235 W. Market St., 5811070. One of the original ventures of this national firm. Bright and noisy, it offers well-made if basic Italian family fare and dishes it out for surprisingly low prices. $$ L D hp

AMICI 316 W. Ormsby Ave., 637-3167. Satisfying traditional Tuscan dishes are served in this interesting — and supposedly haunted — Old Louisville building. Dine inside or on the romantic patio on a lovely summer evening, There’s no extra charge if the ghosts want to share your penne alla Lorenzo or Valpolicella. $$ L D pf

THE OLIVE GARDEN 1320 Hurstbourne Pkwy., 3397190, 9730 Von Allmen Ct., 425-3607, 4805 Outer Loop, 968-2978, 1230 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 218-8304. The top property of the Darden chain, Olive Garden now operates more than 500 properties and bills itself as the leading Italian restaurant in the casual dining industry. Hearty pastas of all shapes and sauces, appetizers and combo platters all carry the Italian theme. $$ L D hp

ANSELMO’S ITALIAN BISTRO 1511 Bardstown Rd., 749-0444. Highland residents hankering for simple, traditional, filling Italian dishes can find just that in this Italian bistro. The menu offers what one would expect: pizza, pastas, lasagna — at reasonable prices. $$ L D hp

PESTO’S ITALIAN RESTAURANT 566 S. Fifth St., 584-0567. Offices for blocks around empty into this bustling Italian eatery for weekday lunches featuring hearty platters of lasagna, zesty salads, red wine and iced tea. On Saturdays, the kitchen switches over to a special Persian menu. $$ L D

BISTRO 42 6021 Timber Ridge Dr., 632-2552. Another entry in the dining choices at Prospect Village shopping center. This little family-run place, serving pasta, sandwiches and Italian and American dishes is proud of its 5-cheese 3-meat Bistro lasagna and their 3-hour honey-baked ham, offered at an attractive price. $$ L D hpfe

PORCINI 2730 Frankfort Ave., 894-8686. This anchor trattoria of the Crescent Hill dining scene has been serving up risotto, ossobuco and bistecca since 1992.

Crowds wait at the popular bar for one of the tables — or just wait at the bar. $$$ L D hpfe

BLU ITALIAN MEDITERRANEAN GRILLE 280 W. Jefferson St. (Louisville Marriott), See listing under Upscale Casual.

BUCA DI BEPPO 2051 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 4932426. Buca di Beppo’s recipe has all the necessary ingredients: huge portions of excellent food served with flair and the Buca scene is fun, a conscious parody of the exuberant decor of family ItalianAmerican restaurants of the 1950s. $$ L D hp CARRABBA’S ITALIAN GRILL 617 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 412-2218. Not your ordinary suburban shopping-center franchise eatery. This place dramatically exceeds expectations. From warmed bread dishes with quality olive oil to first-rate Italian-American fare at reasonable prices. $$$ L D

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COME BACK INN 909 Swan St., 627-1777, 415 Spring St., Jeffersonville IN, 285-1777. With both its branches located in urban neighborhoods, Come Back Inn looks pretty much like any other neighborhood saloon. But unlike most Louisville neighborhood saloons, this one houses a family Italian spot that wouldn’t be out of place in Chicago or Brooklyn. $$ L D p DIFABIO’S CASAPELA ITALIAN RESTAURANT 2311 Frankfort Ave., 891-0411. DiFabio’s Casapela has made its mark in this Crescent Hill space, with a menu that harks back to the red-checked tablecloth and Chianti bottle era of Italian restaurants. Look for baked stuffed mushrooms and toasted ravioli, veal parmesan and chicken piccata, and your choice of pastas with your choice of sauce. $$ D f

ROCKY’S SUB PUB 715 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville, IN, 282-3844. (See review under Pizza.)

ROMANO’S MACARONI GRILL 401 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 423-9220. The Italian-style menu at this casual, Dallas-based family chain includes appetizers, salads, pastas, veal and desserts. Chefs entertain while creating wood-fired pizzas. $$ L D hp SPAGHETTI SHOP 4657 Outer Loop, 969-5545, 4510 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 944-5400.

Baked pasta dishes, subs, salads and appetizers are prepared while you wait. $ L D STEVE-O’S ITALIAN KITCHEN 4205 W. Hwy. 146, LaGrange KY, 222-0300. Outstanding pizzas and fine family-style Italian-American dishes make this casual eatery just off I-71 at Buckner well worth a special trip out from the city. $$ L D TUSCANY ITALIAN RESTAURANT 165 Outer Loop, 363-0308. Adding an appetizing option to a stretch of the South End that hasn’t been over-served by restaurants, this good-sized storefront near New Cut Road boasts a Mexican chef who demonstrates an expert’s hand with hearty, red-sauced ItalianAmerican fare at a price that’s right. $$ L D hp VINCENZO’S 150 S. Fifth St., 580-1350. (See listing under Upscale Casual.)

VOLARE 2300 Frankfort Ave., 894-4446. The name evokes Sinatra, pasta with tomato sauce and candles in Chianti bottles, but stylish Volare kicks that image up a notch. With a combination of Italian standards and monthly menu updates, Chef Josh Moore has secured Volare a top spot for suave Italian dining. Its U.S.D.A. Prime barrel-cut beef program has received rave reviews. $$$ D hpfe

THE INTERNATIONAL MALL 737 S. Eighth St., 561-8871. $ L D LA BOCCA 134 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 725-9495.

The eclectic, expanding dine scene in New Albany needed this Italian place to enrich the ethnic choices.

Dine on, among other dishes, chicken piccata and rigatoni Bolognese. Zeppole on the dessert menu bespeaks the New York bono fides of the owner. $$ L D pf

DE LA TORRE’S 1606 Bardstown Rd., 456-4955.

Authentic Castilian fare includes a majestic paella.

But the renewed focus at this Highlands standby is tapas, in such variety that you can have anything on the menu in small-plates form. $$$ D hp

LA GALLO ROSSO BISTRO 1325 Bardstown Rd., 4730015. This small but attractive Highlands spot in the Shoppes on the Alley serves casual Italian and Continental food in a cozy family-style setting. $$ D f

LA BODEGA 1604 Bardstown Rd., 456-4955. Next door to the excellent De La Torre’s Spanish restaurant, La Bodega offers diners the city’s most authentic Spanishstyle tapas bar, featuring the small bites originally invented in the outdoor cafés of Jerez. $$ D hp

MARTINI ITALIAN BISTRO 4021 Summit Plaza Dr. 394-9797. Now locally owned, Martini’s continues to serve hearty, well-fashioned Italian entrées, pastas and pizzas, a comfortable approximation of a Tuscan

MOJITO TAPAS RESTAURANT 2231 Holiday Manor Center, 425-0949. An offshoot of the popular St. Matthews Cuban restaurant Havana Rumba,

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

Mojito quickly established its own identity as the East End spot for Spanish-inspired small plates with a global taste profile. Always crowded on weekends; no reservations, but call ahead to get high on the waiting list. $$ L D hpf

BOMBAY GRILL 216 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 425-8892.

With its broad array of Indian regional specialties including the requisite lunch buffet, this spot in The Forum on Hurstbourne is winning praise for its aromatic flavors and bountiful portions. $$ L D DAKSHIN INDIAN RESTAURANT 4742 Bardstown Rd., 491-7412. Owned and operated by the same family that brings us Kashmir Restaurant and Bombay Grocery in the Highlands, this addition brings aromatic and spicy Southern Indian fare to the Buechel-Fern Creek neighborhood in the Eastland Shopping Center. $$ B L D p KASHMIR INDIAN RESTAURANT 1277 Bardstown Rd., 473-8765. One of the city’s most popular Indian restaurants, Kashmir is casual, neither posh nor expensive, and it produces an extensive menu of seemingly authentic Indian fare. $$ L D hf LITTLE INDIA CAFÉ 3099 Breckenridge Ln., 479-3353.

It’s sort of an Indian fast-food place, set up in a former Quizno’s. The menu includes appetizers such as lentil soup and mirchi bajji — fried lentil-battered stuffed peppers — followed by Northern lamb and vegetarian entrées, tandoori chicken and kebabs.

There’s also a selection of Indian breads. A Punjabistyle (Northern Indian) lunch buffet is for those who want really fast service. $ L D f SHALIMAR INDIAN RESTAURANT 1820 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 493-8899. Modern and sleek in appearance, modest in price, this restaurant has become the patriarch of local Indian restaurants.

With a substantial lunch buffet and a full range of dinner items, it has built a loyal clientele. $$ L D

GRAPE LEAF 2217 Frankfort Ave., 897-1774. Relatively recent renovations and an expanded menu have elevated the Grape Leaf to destination status, placing it well above the generic Middle Eastern eatery niche. Prices remain affordable, while the food and mood now justify a special trip. $$ L D f LITTLE JERUSALEM 5312 S. Third St., 614-6465.

Middle Eastern fare in the ethnic food complex around Iroquois Manor. The usual things, like hummus and falafel, but also chicken sumac and fatoush and mujadara, made from green lentils, basmati rice, onions and exotic spices. $ L D MIRAGE MEDITERRANEAN RESTAURANT 4100 Preston Hwy., 363-7788. Preston Highway’s international restaurant row is enriched by this Middle Eastern eatery, run by the owners of the nowdefunct Little Jerusalem. Gyros, hummus, falafel — what one would expect, but done with attention to details and a flair for flavor. $$ L D f PETRA MEDITERRANEAN RESTAURANT 3904 Bardstown Rd., 749-0924. Another addition to the ethnic choices out in Beuchel. As with many “Mediterranean” restaurants around, the fare is largely confined to that of the Levant schwarmas and hummus and flafel. $$ L D h PITA DELIGHTS 1616 Grinstead Dr., 569-1122. This Near Eastern eatery in the Highlands offers a splendid mix of gyros, falafel and other pita-based goodies. $$ L D PITA HUT 1613 Bardstown Rd., 409-8484. After its expansion more than doubled the space in this once-tiny spot, more diners can enjoy MediterraneanMiddle Eastern favorites, as well as the addition of a few “American” sandwiches — on fresh pita, of course. $ L D PITA PIT 9816 Linn Station Rd., 565-1220. A franchise operation dedicated to cramming all sorts of fillings into a flatbread pocket. Chomp on a chicken Caesar

pita, or a Philly steak pita. Many veggie selections, from garden vegetables to falafel to hummus and baba ganoush. They’re open for breakfast too: ham ’n’ eggs and sausage scramble to go. $ L D SAFFRON’S 131 W. Market St., 584-7800. An unassuming location in an odd spot downtown, but a most pleasant space inside, with food and service that continues to please regulars and delight visitors. The popular menu items continue to be rack of lamb, roasted duck fesenjoon, salomon and kebabs. $$$ L D pf SAFIER MEDITERRANEAN DELI 641 S. Fourth St., 585-1125. You can get standard American fare at this welcoming downtown quick-eats spot, but who’d do that when you can enjoy such appetizing Arabian delights as hummus, mutabal, falafels and the gyros-like (only better) shawarma beef-on-pita sandwich? $ L D f SHIRAZ MEDITERRANEAN GRILL 2011 Frankfort Ave., 891-8854, 2226 Holiday Manor Center, 4269954, 201 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 426-3440, 3521 Poplar Level Rd., 632-2232. From a tiny neighborhood storefront, Shiraz quickly grew out of its original location and expanded into a local mini-chain. In all its locations, Shiraz shines with authentic Persian (Iranian) cooking, such as char-grilled kebabs, fine pitas and lavish bread. $ L D f TUT’S MEDITERRANEAN GRILL 3425 Bardstown Rd., 452-1899. The Buechel area’s hunger for hummus, dolmas, lamb and falafel is well served by this Middle Eastern eatery. $ L D f THE WAREHOUSE HOOKAH BAR & CAFÉ 504 State St., New Albany IN, 276-5894. Choose from up to 10 flavors of tobacco to relish at the table with friends at this first hookah bar in southern Indiana.

Also on offer is a full bar and American pub grub such as pizzas, pita and hummus, corn dogs, jumbo pretzels, chips and salsa or queso to munch on between puffs. $ L D hpe

SITAR INDIAN RESTAURANT 1702 Bardstown Rd., 473-8889. Named after the Indian stringed musical instrument that Ravi Shankar made famous, Sitar features a full Indian menu and an impressively tasty buffet. It’s the first Louisville property for a tiny new chain with four places in Tennessee and one in Alabama. $$ L D TAJ PALACE 2929 Goose Creek Rd., 423-9692. Focused on Northern Indian cuisine, the menu offers a wide range of chicken, lamb, seafood and vegetarian dishes.

Spiciness can be decided by the customer. Lunch buffet and dinner menu. $$ L D f

AL WATAN 3713 Klondike Ln., 454-4406. Classic Arabic dishes home-cooked by friendly people in a cozy environment. That’s the recipe that makes Al Watan a destination for lovers of fine Middle Eastern fare. $ L D BURNING BUSH GRILLE 13206 W. U.S. Highway 42, 228-7776. A franchisee of the popular Shiraz local mini-chain has struck off on his own, cooking healthy Mediterranean foods — kebabs, steak, fish and lamb, salads, pizza, gyros and Balkan burgers. $ L D f CAFÉ 360 1582 Bardstown Rd., 473-8694. Highlands diners enjoy an eclectic and international menu at the friendly corner place, with Southern fried catfish and Indian lamb biryani in immediate juxtaposition. You can get it all, diner-style, just about 24/7. $ B L D hpf THE FALAFEL HOUSE 1001 Bardstown Rd., 4544407. This small Highlands spot is strategically situated to offer quick and affordable sustenance along the Bardstown-Baxter entertainment strip.

Look for the usual Middle Eastern fare in a casual, quick-service setting. $$ L D hf

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ZAYTUN MEDITERRANEAN GRILL 2286 Bardstown Rd., 365-1788. Fine, freshly prepared seafood is part of the draw in this upper Highlands eatery with an eclectic Middle Eastern menu. Excellent gyros and friendly, sympathetic service kick it up a notch from other hummus joints. $ L D h ZOE’S KITCHEN 500 W. Jefferson St., 585-0000, 4126 Summit Plaza Dr., 329-8963, 3723 Lexington Rd., 409-8963. This chain has been growing throughout the South and Southwest, and now has three Louisville locations. An eclectic menu offers kabobs, hummus, quesadillas, roll-ups, pita sandwiches and chicken, tuna and shrimp salads. $ L D

J. GUMBO’S 2109 Frankfort Ave., 896-4046, 531 Lyndon Ln., 425-0096, 426 W. Jefferson St., 5899245, 8603 Citadel Way, 493-4720, 3017 Poplar Level Rd., 690-8080. Former jockey Billy Fox has created a popular mini-chain serving hearty, affordable Cajun cuisine. After a stint focusing on expansion, he is now back in the saddle and in the kitchen again, to the delight of his fans. The drunken chicken is addictive. $ B L D f JOE’S OK BAYOU 9874 Linn Station Rd., 426-1320.

Fine, filling and authentic Louisiana-style fare is the draw at Joe’s. A lengthy menu and bayou fishing-shack decor showcases authentic Cajun and Creole chow. $$ L D p SELENA’S AT WILLOW LAKE TAVERN 10609 LaGrange Rd., 245-9004. This Cajun/Creole place in a renovated Anchorage roadhouse continues to find fans.

Shrimp or fish with Manale sauce is a tribute to Pascal Manale’s in New Orleans. $$ Br L D hpf

CUBAN FLAVOR 5700 Outer Loop, 618-2181. The flowering of Cuban/Caribbean cuisine is reaching

out beyond the city. This little place, in a strip mall, of course, brings black beans and rice and pork asado to Okolona. $ L D EL RINCON CUBAN RESTAURANT 8118 Preston Hwy., 742-2768. Bringing Cuban cuisine to Okolona.

Along with familiar dishes such as arroz con pollo, the menu also includes specialties such as tasajo (braised beef in tomato sauce), ajiaco (a root vegetable stew made with malanga, yucca and corn) and cremas — a variety of pureed vegetable soups. $ L D EL TENAMPA BAR & GRILL 5412 Del Maria Way, 493-4053. $ L D p HABANA BLUES TAPAS RESTAURANT 148 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 944-9760. Habana Blues’ extensive Cuban menu has a few international dishes, too, and a nice selection of tapas.

Also a half-dozen bocaditos (sandwiches) and a few dinner dishes such as paella Valenciana and arroz con pollo. $$ L D pfe HAVANA RUMBA 4115 Oechsli Ave., 897-1959, 12003 Shelbyville Rd., 244-5375. A true taste of Old Havana can be found at both locations of this consistently busy Cuban restaurant. Bountiful servings of Cuban fare as good as any in Key West or Miami, not to mention a hopping mojito bar, have earned Havana Rumba a place on our short list of local favorites. $$ L D pf HAVANA RUMBA EXPRESS 2210 Bardstown Rd., 749-4600. The Havana Rumba family brings Cuban quick-order food and Spanish tapas to the Douglass Loop. Look also for rustic rotisserie chicken and pork, ethnic side dishes and sandwiches. $ L D hpfe IRIES CARIBBEAN CAFÉ 255 Quartermaster Crt., 280-7437. Owners of this café are immigrants from the Caribbean islands whose eclectic menu includes ethnic dishes such as jerk chicken, salt cod and plantains, plus American sandwiches and sides. $ L D

PALERMO VIEJO 1359 Bardstown Rd., 456-6461.

Louisville’s best source for authentic Argentine cooking: lots of beef (and chicken) slow-cooked over charcoal and Latin versions of Italian dishes, like chicken Milanesa. Palermo Viejo is the Little Italy of Buenos Aires, hometown of owner Francisco Elbl’s father. $$ D pf PUPUSERIA Y TAQUERIA SANTA ROSA 4231 Taylor Blvd., 368-4353. $ L D TAYLOR G’S JAMAICAN JERK 332 W. Broadway, 587-6127. $$ L D

ADOBO MEXICAN RESTAURANT 5612 Bardstown Rd., 618-3430. Fern Creek gets some spicy Mexican with this eatery. The guacamole bar offers a huge portion in a rough stone mortar, just the thing to munch on while sipping a margarita special. $$ L D p BAZO’S FRESH MEXICAN GRILL 4014 Dutchmans Ln., 899-9600, 1907 S. Fourth St., 899-9746. A downtown location joins its Dupont Circle sibling, offering fine fish tacos and simple fast-food Mexican fare in an inexpensive, casual atmosphere. $ L D f CAFE AROMA 2020 Brownsboro Rd., 618-3434. The menu is billed as “world cuisine with a Mexican flair” but it’s really mostly Mexican and really mostly good, according to our friends in the neighborhood. Affordable, casual and filling. What’s not to like? $ L D CASA FIESTA 10000 Brownsboro Rd., 423-4604. This Mexican restaurant in the Summit area has impressed diners with its clean, modern ambience and its generous portions for reasonable prices. $ L D pf CHIPOTLE MEXICAN GRILL 315 S. Fourth St., 5848606. The Fourth St. casual fast-food corridor gets a new addition with Chipotle’s. This chain’s version of Tex-Mex food is made with humanely raised meat products. A second Chipotle already is under construction in the parking lot of the Home Depot (10301 Westport Rd.) and expected to open soon. $ L D EL BURRITO DE ORO 1927 Greentree Blvd., Clarksville IN, 285-8820. $ L D h EL CAMINO 1314 Bardstown Rd. The owners of The Silver Dollar in Clifton have morphed the old Avalon space into a high-concept melding of tiki bar, southern California surfer hangout and Mexican street-food emporium. How’s this for authentic: Chef Jonathan Schwartz and his Mexican wife refined the menu at his mother-in-law’s Cancun restaurant. The sound track features Beach Boy era surfer music. (opening September) $$ Br L D hpf EL CAPORAL 2209 Meadow Dr., 473-7840, 1909 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 515 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 282-7174. Louisville’s growing Mexican-American community has fostered a happy trend: excellent, authentic Mexican food. El Caporal bridges the gap between the Latino and Anglo communities. $ L D p EL MARIACHI 9901 La Grange Rd., 413-5770. Early fans of this Mexican restaurant, situated between a bakery and an ethnic grocery, have found much to rave about: tacos and burritos made with the bakery’s fresh tortillas, funky authentic fillings, and quick, friendly service. $ B L D p EL MARLIN SEAFOOD RESTAURANT 1850 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 365-1777. As genuine a take on Mexican seafood cookery as is possible in landlocked Kentucky. Choose mild or spicy preparations of marlin, tilapia, grouper and snapfish. $$ L D p EL MOLCAJETE 8106 Preston Hwy., 742-3485, 3022 S. Third St., 638-0300. $$ L D hp EL MUNDO 2345 Frankfort Ave., 899-9930. This crowded, noisy little Crescent Hill storefront offers creative renditions of Mexican regional specialties that make most diners want to yell “Olé!” The setting may lack the trendy flair of Rick Bayless’ Frontera Grill in Chicago, but the fare mines a similar vein and does so nearly as well. $ L D pf

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RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

EL NOPAL (19 Locations) These locally owned restaurants have become a growing mini-chain that now numbers 19, winning popularity on the basis of delicious and inexpensive Mexican fare in comfortable surroundings. $LD p f EL RANCHERO 2918 Hikes Ln,. 410-5668. Formerly El Rey’s, the new owner has spiffed the space up a bit, and aficionados of Mexican food speak well of the nacho grande, tostadas de ceviche and spicierthan-usual queso. $$ L D p EL SOMBRERO 2784 Meijer St, Jeffersonville IN, 2850109. An Indianapolis restaurant group has taken over the old Bearno’s near Meijer in J’ville, and opened this “Americanized Mexican” restaurant. $ D p EL TARASCO 5425 New Cut Rd., 368-5628, 110 Fairfax Ave., 895-8010, 9901 LaGrange Rd., 3269373, 9606 Taylorsville Rd., 297-8003. Add El Tarasco to the happy new genre of restaurants run

by Latinos and offering authentic Mexican food and atmosphere, but that reach out to Anglos and make it easy to enjoy a South-of-the-Border culinary adventure without compromise. $ L D p EL TORAZO 1850 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-7272.

A family oriented Mexican restaurant joins the choices at this Hurstbourne shopping strip location. All the expected menu items, as well as some more sophisticated dishes, such as 7 mares sopa, a soup with shrimp, scallops and octopus; banderillas, a colorful beef brochette; and chuleta sabrosa, a Durango-style grilled steak. $$ L D pf EL TORITO DE JALISCO 4325 Preston Hwy., 4098138. $$ L D pf EL TORO CANTINA & GRILL 10602 Shelbyville Rd., 489-3839. One of the top Mexican restaurants in the metro, El Toro earns our recommendation for food, service and environment. Tex-Mex dishes are fine, but save room for the authentic Mexican seafood specialties. $ L D pf

FIESTA TIME AMIGOS 8133 Bardstown Rd., 231-2444. $LDp FIESTA TIME MEXICAN GRILL 11320 Maple Brook Dr., 425-9144. $ L D p GUACA MOLE 9921 Ormsby Station Rd., 365-4823.

Fernando Martinez, veteran of Havana Rumba and Mojitos, has graced the East End with his “creative Mexican” restaurant. The hyphenated name emphasizes the menu’s exploration of different moles, and the creativity comes with modern twists on classic Mexican dishes. Early buzz is hot, for both the food and the up-to-the-minute cocktail program designed by Martinez’s wife Cristina. $$ Br L D pe LA BAMBA 1237 Bardstown Rd., 451-1418. La Bamba boasts of its “burritos as big as your head.” It may be Louisville’s most startling case of an eatery that is more than it appears to be, and that goes for both quality and quantity. Franchised and fast-foodish, it pleasantly surprises with genuine Mexican fare and Latino flair. $ L D h LA CARRETA 7319 Preston Hwy., 742-1320. A Mexican joint with a bit more interesting menu than some. Look for Texas quail poppers, shrimp diablo, fajita nachos, and botana platter, as well as quesadillas, taquitos and queso. $$ L D h LA HACIENDA GUADALAJARA 4132 Outer Loop, 384-6427. $$ B L D LA POPULAR 2521 Seventh St Rd., 636-3688.$LD p LA ROSITA TAQUERIA 8730 Westport Rd., 618-4588, 5059 Preston Hwy., 618-2833, 1404 Blackiston Mill Rd., Clarksville IN, 284-1362. For those who crave genuine Mexican tacos, you want them convenient when the urge to scarf one down strikes. These little places will certainly satisfy those cravings. $ L D LA SIERRA RESTAURANT AND TAQUERIA 6501 Shepherdsville Rd., 969-7938. $ L D LAS GORDITAS 4756 Bardstown Rd., 492-0112. As Louisville’s small but thriving Latino community

grows, it’s now possible to enjoy an authentic Mexico City-style dining experience at this taco and gordita wagon that rolls up in the Eastland Shopping Center on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays only. Family owners and chefs Pat and Esperanza Costas and Ofelia Ortiz are completely bilingual, and as friendly as can be. $ D hf LOLITA’S TACOS 4222 Poplar Level Rd., 459-4356.

This tiny place may look like a fast-food joint, but the food is about as genuine Mexican as you’ll find. Crisp or soft tacos and burritos the size of paper-towel rolls turn a meal here into a real bargain. $ L D f LOS AZTECAS 530 W. Main St., 561-8535, 1107 Herr Ln., 426-3994, 9207 U.S. Hwy. 42, 228-2450. Genuine Mexican cuisine has become a viable option in Louisville, thanks to a growing immigrant com mu nity.

With fresh bar and blender offerings, creative appetizers and comfortable seating, Los Aztecas is one of the best, with tasty Mexican dishes good enough to lure us back again and again. $ L D pf MANGO’S BAR & GRILL 4632 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 671-5291, 1921 Bishop Ln., 749-5300. $$ L D MAYAN CAFÉ 813 E. Market St., 566-0651. Chef Bruce Ucán arguably kicked off the restaurant renaissance in the E. Market St. Nulu district. Opening his stylish bistro, serving distinctive cuisine from Ucán’s native Yucatan Peninsula, before NuLu was fashionable. $$ L D MEXICAN FIESTA 4507 Bardstown Rd., 491-2922 $ L D hp MEXICO TIPICO RESTAURANT 6517 Dixie Hwy., 933-9523. One of the region’s first authentic Mexican eateries, Mexico Tipico has built a loyal following for good Mexican food and friendly, fully bilingual service. $ L D pe MEXICO VIEJO 2319 Brownsboro Rd., 893-9880.$LDp PINA FIESTA REAL MEXICAN GRILL 7895 Dixie Hwy., 995-6775. Fans of Mexican food have another

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place to try, out along the wide, wide highway. You won’t find anything new here, but they say it will be real. $ L D p PUERTO VALLARTA 4214 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 945-3588, 125 Quartermaster Ct., Jeffersonville IN, 288-2022, 7814 Beulah Church Rd., 239-4646. $$ L D p QDOBA MEXICAN GRILL (14 locations). This chain operation extends from Louisville to Frankfort and Lexington. Fast-foodish in style, Qdoba edges out its competitors on variety and interesting salsas, plus sizable portions at a price you can afford. $ L D f RAMIRO’S CANTINA 2350 Frankfort Ave., 895-3333.

Ramiro Gandara bought out his partners and gave his mom, Tina Ruton Escajeda, control of the kitchen.

His Mexican restaurant in the heart of Crescent Hill’s restaurant row has a new name and some unique menu items, such as enchiladas verdes, lobster quesadilla, guacamole burger, and shrimp fajitas. And don’t forget Tina’s specialty: scratch-made tamales. Vegetarian choices too, and a full bar. $ L D hpf ROSTICERIA LUNA 5213 Preston Hwy., 962-8898.

Tiny and cluttered and very friendly, this little spot on Preston looks like another tacqueria but the specialty, Mexican-style roasted chicken, takes it to another level, juicy and succulent and roasted golden brown. Chicken simply doesn’t get any better than this. $ L D hp SANTA FE GRILL 3000 S. Third St., 634-3722. This tiny eatery in a century-old South End storefront near Churchill Downs never fails to satisfy with genuine Mexican tacos and other simple fare at prices that will leave you plenty of change for an exacta bet at the races. $ L D SEÑOR IGUANA’S 1415 Broadway St., Clarksville IN, 280-8555, 3105 S. Second St., 368-0876, 9424 Shelbyville Rd., 425-4581, 9909 Taylorsville Rd., 409-9565, 4000 Dutchmans Ln., 742-1900. These Mexican-American eateries are known for their hearty, well-prepared Mexican food, and plenty of it, in a casually laid-back, comfortable sports-bar atmosphere. $ L D hpfe SEÑOR TACO 4806 Bardstown Rd., 493-7003. $ L D SIN FRONTERAS 827 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville IN, 292-0901. $$ L D p SOL AZTECAS 2427 Bardstown Rd.,459-7776, 520 S. Fourth St., 315-0666, 129 W. Main St., 583-5505.

Saul Garcia, owner of this expanding chain, seems to have a knack for finding hot locations to serve his satisfying fare. He was down on Main St.’s museum row before the museums were, took over the former Raw space on the southern edge of the hot Fourth St. Live corridor, and now has his classiest location on Whiskey Row, a handsome renovation with a more sophisticated Mexican decor, and a broader Mexican menu. $ L D hpf TACO TICO 5925 Terry Rd., 449-9888. Founded in Wichita in 1962, the same year Taco Bell was born in Southern California, the Taco Tico chain had been gone locally for more than a decade. Its happy return has been drawing remarkable crowds. $ L D TACQUERIA LA MEXICANA 6201 Preston Hwy., 969-4449. The tacos are fine at this tiny storefront.

This is seriously ethnic stuff, but Anglos are thoroughly welcome, the staff is bilingual, and they will happily provide a menu with all the English translations written in. $ L D YELLOW CACTUS 3620 Paoli Pk., Floyds Knobs IN, 903-0313. A yellow neon cactus draws diners to this Indiana restaurant that offers standard Mexican cantina fare, as well as steak and chicken in both American and Mexican styles, and a few seafood dishes. $ L D hp

CHUY’S 104 Oxmoor Crt., 327-3033, 1440 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 282-2489. The Austin, Texas 80 Fall 2013 www.foodanddine.com

“unchain,” has two area locations, offering a complimentary happy hour nacho “car bar” set in the back end of a 50s era auto, plenty of Elvis memorabilia, and a wall of chihuahua photos. Oh, and Tex-Mex food at reasonable prices. $$ L D hpf MOE’S SOUTHWEST GRILL 2001 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-1800, 1001 Breckinridge Ln., 893-6637, 4652 Chamberlain Ln., 425-3330, 1020 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 288-6637, 9310 Cedar Center Way, 614-7722. The food may be more fastfood Mexican-American than authentic South-ofthe-Border fare, but it is freshly made from quality ingredients and comes in oversize portions, and that’s not a bad thing. $ L D SALSARITA’S FRESH CANTINA 285 N. Hubbards Ln., 897-5323, 12915 Shelbyville Rd., 365-1424. Another entry in the hot “Fresh Mexican” niche that features gigantic burritos made to order. Now with two locations, in St. Matthews and Middletown. $ L D f TACO PUNK 736 E. Market St., 584-8226. (See review under Casual Dining) TUMBLEWEED TEX MEX GRILL & MARGARITA BAR (15 locations). Starting as a humble Mexican restaurant in New Albany, Tumbleweed grew to become an area favorite serving bold, southwest-inspired food such as burritos, spicy chile con queso, mesquitegrilled steaks, fish and chicken. Each Tumbleweed Margarita Bar offers two dozen tequila varieties and dozens of sweet and tangy margarita combinations.

Sip one while savoring the river-view at its flagship River Road location. $ L D hp

ARGO SONS COFFEE 3640 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-9396. The fathers of the guys who run this roastery and wholesaler are brothers, if that helps you figure out the name. The business is mostly wholesale, but there is a classic espresso bar, so you can run in, buy a few pounds of beans and have a nice cuppa. No crullers or Danish, though. $ BEAN STREET COFFEE CO. 101 Lafollette Station, Floyds Knobs IN, 923-1404. Bean Street introduced the Sunny Side to the joys of serious espresso. Like all good coffee shops, they’re not just an eatery, but a cultural hangout. $ CAFFE CLASSICO 2144 Frankfort Ave., 895-0076.

(See review under Bistro/Contemporary.)

COFFEE CROSSING 4212 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 981-2633. $ f DAY’S ESPRESSO AND COFFEE BAR 1420 Bardstown Rd., 456-1170. Dark and cozy, with an oldfashioned feeling, Day’s has everything you would expect in a college-neighborhood coffee shop except a college near by. $ hf HEINE BROTHERS COFFEE (13 locations) With the absorption of the VINT outlets, Heine Bros. asserts their dominance in the local brewing scene. The stores are always friendly and affordable, with good coffee roasted on the premises and a short list of pastries, desserts and panini sandwiches. $ hfe HIGHLAND COFFEE CO. 1140 Bardstown Rd., 4514545. Offering two ways to get wired, this cozy neighborhood coffee shop also functions as one of Louisville’s top Internet cafés, where you can enjoy a hot cappuccino while you surf the ’net in a WiFi hot spot. Funky Seattle-style ambience is a plus. $ hf THE HOBKNOBB ROASTING CO. 3700 Paoli Pike, Floyds Knobs IN, 923-1458. HobKnobb offers fresh hot coffee, espresso drinks and fresh baked pastries, cakes and cookies. $ fe JAVA BREWING COMPANY 4828 Norton Healthcare Blvd., 339-4744, 135 S. English Station Rd., 489-5677, 1707 Bardstown Rd., 384-3555. These casual spots boasts the ambience of a friendly old-fashioned book shop, with comfortable seating, a good selection of pastries, and quality coffee from Seattle. $ fe

KAELIN’S COFFEEHOUSE 1801 Newburg Rd., 6322818. This bright new addition to the breakfast and caffeine needs of the west side of the Highlands is physically attached to Mulligan’s Bar, which, of course, squats in the space forever to be known as “the old Kaelin’s.” Early reports laud the strong coffee, pleasant service and breakfast choices, from bagels to egg sandwiches. $ B L LOUISVILLE TEA COMPANY 9305 New LaGrange Rd., 365-2516. Teas of all sorts, pastries and cookies make for a perfect morning snack the English call “elevenses.” $ B L MRS. POTTER’S COFFEE 718 W. Main St., 581-1867. $ f PERKFECTION 359 Spring St., Jeffersonville IN 218-0611.$ PLEASE AND THANK YOU 800 E. Market St. Another addition to the burgeoning choices in NuLu district, this little coffee house with a difference serves breakfast and lunch, and offers an eclectic selection of vinyl records, which can be sampled in a listening room. Try the ganache latte, Thai iced coffee, granola parfait, Capriole cheese with honey and grapes on a baguette, or a field greens salad with dried cherries and blue cheese. $ f QUILL’S COFFEE SHOP 930 Baxter Ave., 742-6129, 327 W. Cardinal Blvd., 690-5553, 137 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 590-3426. Fans of this local purveyor of excellent coffee and provider of amenable working spaces can find their caffeine fix and wi-fi hotspot at any of the three locations. $ f RED HOT ROASTERS 1402 Payne St., 569-0000, 901 S. Fourth St. (Spalding University), 585-9911.

Drive-through the original take-away joint (entrance off Lexington Rd.) or walk into the little space at Spalding, for your morning latte, coldbrewed iced coffee drinks., or excellent whole beans roasted on the premises. $ SISTER BEAN’S 5225 New Cut Rd., 364-0082. $ f SMOKEY’S BEAN 1451 S. First St., 749-6900. Located on the corner of 1st and Burnett, this coffeehouse and sandwich shop gives good choices to Old Louisville residents. Locally roasted coffee plus frappes. On Friday and Saturday nights sit down and puff on a hookah until 2 a.m. $ hf SONOMA COFFEE CAFÉ 3309 Poplar Level Rd., 3840044. The first outlet in Kentucky of this franchise coffeteria. Rich pastries and smoothies are available along with the coffee $ STARBUCKS COFFEE (35 locations) $ f SUNERGOS COFFEE 2122 S. Preston St., 634-1243, 306 W. Woodlawn Ave., 368-2820, 231 S. Fifth St., 589-3222. Matthew Huested and Brian Miller used to roast their own coffee beans as a hobby. Their friends said they did it so well, they should turn pro — the result is Sunergos Coffee. $ e TAZZA MIA 9700 Bluegrass Pkwy. (Ramada Plaza Hotel), 499-9719. The Cincinnati-based coffee shop joins the food options at the Ramada Plaza in eastern Jefferson County. Patrons can find breakfast pastries such as Danishes and muffins along with the house-roasted coffees. $ VINT COFFEE 2309 Frankfort Ave., 894-8060, Now owned by Heine Bros. this Crescent Hill location is the only one that keeps the name that reflects the concept that all their beverages — coffee, tea, ale and wine — will “have a vintage, an annual release cycle.” $ f

2 DIPS AND A SHAKE 321 W. Main St., 566-3258.

Got an ice cream craving? Specifically a Comfy Cow craving but you don’t have the time to rush from downtown to the ’burbs to sate it? Then visit this spot across the street from Actors Theater to get your fix. $ f ADRIENNE & CO. BAKERY CAFÉ 129 W. Court Ave., Jeffersonville IN, 282-2665. $ f

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

ANNIE MAY’S SWEETS CAFÉ 3110 Frankfort Ave., 384-2667. The only gluten and nut-free bakery in the state caters to customers with dietary issues such as celiac disease and allergies. Cookies, brownies, cakes, pies, wedding cakes all made without wheat, dairy, eggs, soy or tree nuts. Arrive early, before the vegan and allergen-free oatmeal cream pie cookies sell out. $ THE BAKERY 3100 Bardstown Rd., 452-1210. Not just a fine bakery but a place where bakers learn their business, this excellent establishment is part of the culinary program at Sullivan University. It’s hard to beat the quality breads and pastries offered here to eat in or carry out. $ BREADWORKS 3628 Brownsboro Rd., 893-3200, 2420 Lime Kiln Ln., 326-0300, 2204 Dundee Rd., 452-1510, 11800 Shelbyville Rd., 254-2885. $ B CAKE FLOUR 909 E. Market St., 719-0172. This jewel box shop serves up precious French pastries, quiche, scones and sweets seven days a week. The chef’s all-natural ethos and locavore connections make for exquisite tastes. $ f CELLAR DOOR CHOCOLATES 1201 Story Ave., 561-2940. Erika Chavez-Graziano continues her chocolate explorations at her artsy shop in the Butchertown Market building on Story Ave., Look for esoteric, but luscious, inventive chocolate confections such as beer flavored truffles and avocado soft-centers. $ THE COMFY COW 1301 Herr Ln., 425-4979, 2223 Frankfort Ave., 409-4616, 339 W. Cardinal Blvd., 409-5090. This “new-fashioned” ice-cream parlor made an immediate splash in its original Westport Village location with its intriguing range of flavors (salted caramel, fresh roasted coffee, peanut peanut butter butter), and is in the throes of expansion, into the historic building on Frankfort next to the old Genny’s Diner and in the U of L project at the old Masterson’s site in Old Louisville. $ hf

GREAT HARVEST BREAD COMPANY 1225 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 412-8573 $ B L

sucker for over-the-top excess, try the caramel donut topped with — yes, it’s true, bacon. $ B

HEITZMAN TRADITIONAL BAKERY & DELI 9426 Shelbyville Rd., 426-7736. The Heitzman family has been baking in the Louisville area since your great-aunt was a girl ordering dinner rolls. Made fresh daily, the pies, cakes, cookies and specialty pastries provide tasty nostalgia for all who visit. $

PLEHN’S BAKERY 3940 Shelbyville Rd., 896-4438. A neighborhood institution, this bakery is as busy as it is nostalgic. Enjoy the hometown soda fountain with ice cream while you wait for your handdecorated birthday cake, breakfast rolls or colorful cookies to be boxed. $ B

HOMEMADE ICE CREAM & PIE KITCHEN 2525 Bardstown Rd., 459-8184, 1041 Bardstown Rd., 618-3380, 3737 Lexington Rd., 893-3303, 12613 Taylorsville Rd., 267-6280, 3598 Springhurst Blvd., 326-8990, 12531 Shelbyville Rd., 245-7031, 5606 Bardstown Rd., 239-3880, 3113 Blackiston Mill Rd., Clarksville IN, 590-3580, 2232 Frankfort Ave., 409-6100. $ L D hf

POLICE DONUTS 12416 Shelbyville Rd., 244-1880.

The first incarnation of this jokey concept did not quite work out, but new ownership is trying again, putting out good bakery products at reasonable prices. $ B

HONEY CREME DONUT SHOP 514 Vincennes St., New Albany IN, 945-2150. Off the beaten track, this down-homey bakery in a plain white building offers a wide selection of doughnuts, fritters and Danish that keeps the shop’s fans coming back again and again. $ B JASMIN BAKERY 3825 Bardstown Rd., 458-0013. This “European-style” bakery offers fresh breads and rolls, as well as Eastern Mediterranean fare, such as gyros and baklava, at reasonable prices. $ B L MARLYCE’S PLACE 1404 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville IN, 551-5577. $ MY FAVORITE MUFFIN 9800 Shelbyville Rd., 4269645. All the muffins are made right in the store, including such popular choices as the Cinnamon Crumb and the Turtle Muffin. $ B NORD’S BAKERY 2118 S. Preston St., 634-0931. This old-school, family-owned bakery on the edge of Germantown has a devoted following, drawn by divine Danish, donuts, and great coffee from the nearby Sunergos micro-roastery — and if you’re a

STATE DONUTS 12907 Factory Ln., 409-8825. $ SUGAR AND SPICE DONUT SHOP 5613 Bardstown Rd., 231-1411. This Fern Creek bakery has loads of loyal fans, who often buy out their favorite donut by mid-morning. Coffee to go too, of course, and even little half-pints of chocolate milk. $ B SWEET STUFF BAKERY 323 E. Spring St., New Albany IN, 948-2507. This long-time southern Indiana home-style bakery is noted for baked goods just like your grandmother made. Its specialty: painted sugar cookies, with designs in white chocolate that change with the seasons and holidays.

Also custom cookie and cake designs. $ B SWEET SURRENDER 1804 Frankfort Ave., 899-2008.

Sweet Surrender, with Jessica Haskell at the helm, has returned to its original Clifton neighborhood to provide elegant desserts as well as signature vegetarian lunches. $$ hf SWEETS & SUCH BAKERY 3947 Dixie Hwy. 4491008. $ WILLIAM’S BAKERY 1051 N. Clark Blvd., Clarksville IN, 284-2867. $ B WILTSHIRE PANTRY BAKERY AND CAFÉ 901 Barret Ave., 581-8561 (See listing under Cafés.)

COPPER CUPCAKE 10616 Meeting St., 708-2418. $ THE CUPCAKE SHOPPE 3701 Lexington Rd., 8992970. You won’t need three guesses to name the specialty at this little St. Matthews bakery, which has gained instant popularity for its wide variety of moist, tender cupcakes, always made in house. $ DALAT’S GATEAUX & BAKERY 6915 Southside Dr., 368-9280. It’s a French bakery, run by a Vietnamese family, which makes perfect sense. Order French pastry, cakes and cookies as well as Vietnamese specialties. Savory choices, such as pork pate wrapped in choux pastry are also available. $ DESSERTS BY HELEN 3500 Frankfort Ave., 451-7151.

Helen Friedman has earned a loyal clientele since the 1970s with her elegant cakes, tempting pies and tortes and designer cookies. $$ DUNKIN DONUTS 1250 Bardstown Rd., 290-3865.

You will find hot sandwiches as well as doughnuts and coffee, just what you need to get you going in the morning or to get you steady enough to get home at night. $ B L h THE FUDGERY 416 S Fourth St.(Fourth Street Live), 409-7484.$ GELATO GILBERTO 9434 Norton Commons Blvd., 423-7751. Justin and Kristin Gilbert so loved the gelato they ate as students in Italy that they returned there after graduating to study gelato making. Their popular store draws fans out to Norton Commons, though owners can often be found scooping cones and cups at special events. Their store menu includes pies and crepes as well. $ h GIGI’S CUPCAKES 1977 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 4994998. The first outpost of the Tennessee bakery chain in Kentucky, this little shop offers a changing selection of high-end cupcakes in designer flavors — Bailey’s Irish cream, apple spice, coconut snowball, and so on. $

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

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MAP # DIRECTION PAGE # DOWNTOWN 84 1 downtown louisville 85 NEAR EAST 2 highlands – crescent hill 86 NEAR EAST 3 st. matthews 87 SOUTH EAST 4 hikes point – buechel 88 EAST 5 hurstbourne – anchorage 89 EAST 6 hurstbourne s. – jeffersontown 90 NORTH EAST 7 indian hills – westport 90 FAR NORTH EAST 8 westport rd. – gene snyder NA NEW MAP 9 under construction 91 NORTH EAST 10 prospect 91 SOUTH EAST 11 fern creek 92 SOUTH WEST 12 shively – pleasure ridge 93 SOUTH 13 old louisville – airport 94 INDIANA 14 new albany – floyds knobs 95 INDIANA 15 clarksville 95 INDIANA 16 jeffersonville

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(INDIANA) JEFFERSONVILLE

(INDIANA) CLARKSVILLE

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